EXPATS american designers ta k e o v e r e u r o p e a n fa s h i o n h o u s e s by ian grafvonluxburg
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or quite some time, London, Milan, and Paris have been hesitant to listen to Western influence. For the most part, Europe has always had a tight grip on the fashion industry, with conglomerates such as The Kering Group and LVMH monopolizing the scene. Fashion designers always seemed to be from one of the major, or adjacent, cities on the European fashion calendar. But in recent times, these houses and brands have undergone an Americanization of sorts. It is becoming more common to hear the name of an American designer behind a major European house. Kim Jones is an English fashion designer who, as head of Louis Vuitton menswear from 2011 to 2018, completely reshaped concepts like street style. After an incredible run, Louis Vuitton decided to part ways with the designer, and in March of 2018, the brand named Virgil Abloh the new Creative Director for its Menswear line. The new gig was major for Abloh, making him the first Black person to hold the post and one of few Black designers at the helm of a major French fashion house. Another major fashion switcheroo was the departure of Riccardo Tisci from Givenchy. Although Tisci is of Italian descent, he was at the helm of a major French fashion house for 13 years, overseeing both its womens- and menswear lines, and even producing Givenchy couture. In June of 2020, Matthew Williams, an American fashion designer, was appointed creative director of the house. It’s become a trend. Another example is Daniel Roseberry, an American designer from Texas, who was named creative director of Schiaparelli after the house’s 2014 revival. He quickly solidified his name at the legendary house and is now making couture under its name. With all of these American names being thrown around, one can only ask: who haven’t we heard of yet? For a long time now, the American fashion industry has
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The Lexington Line • A/W 21 • vol 8 • no 1
