NaTURE-FORWARD FASHION A LT- fa b r i c s G r ow i n a p p e a l by Sofia naranjo
There is always something new popping up in sustainable fashion. Known fast fashion brands like Zara, Artiza and H&M have claimed to incorporate better practices. Brands like Stella McCartney, Rag & Bone, Coclico, Eileen Fisher, and Mara Hoffman have invested in meaningful changes to production and supply chain methods. Whether it’s the fabrics they use, their production methods, their level of transparency, or their emphasis on safe, fair labor for workers, fashion brands are emphasizing sustainability now more than ever. We’ve heard about brands using organic cotton, recycled nylon, recycled polyester, Lyocell/Tencel, and other sustainable fabrics. Can it get more eco-conscious than that? Apparently so. Here are a few funky, attention-grabbing textiles that are being used by small apparel and accessories brands.
To make their grape leather shoes, sustainable streetwear brand Pangaia repurposes the global wine industry’s 6.5 billion liters of waste. Production of grape leather shoes uses minimum amounts of water and vegetable tanning (a method using natural tannins which alter the protein, making it into leather). Grape skin is used for production, and the seeds and stalks are dispensed. The part-recycled rubber soles are made from industrial waste—samples, prototypes, burrs, and products that do not meet high-quality standards. The shoes, responsibly produced in Portugal, also include natural cotton laces with 100% recycled plastic tips. One compelling aspect of the process is that regenerating wine-industry-waste into textiles establishes a cycle between what we eat and wear.
Using Pineapple leaves as fabric is nothing new and has history in Brazil, Hawaii, and Indonesia. However, it’s generally agreed that the practice originated in the Philippines. This fiber has not been widely used by American brands before because it takes a profound investment to produce, as cheap, harmful fabrics are easier to manufacture. Pineapple fiber manufacturing is a slow and beautiful process and should be appreciated for the number of steps that it carries. The fabric is made first by detaching the leaves from the trunk of the fruit, then separating the fibers by hand using a scraping tool, and then washing the cellulosic strands and hanging them to dry. They are then waxed to release any leftover entanglements and plant tissues, and lastly, the strands are knotted one by one to create a connected thread of yarn. According to The Sustainable Fashion Collective, “A kilo of leaves can provide up to 15-18 pieces of white, creamy lustrous fibre [...] This is a hand labourintensive slow process that can often involve 30 people in total.” Next, it is left to the artisans to weave up the fabric. The company most known for producing pineapple fabric is Pinatex. Pinatex manufactures nonwoven textiles from waste pineapple leaves as an alternative to leather and other synthetic materials. Pinatex is also PETA-approved and registered by the Vegan Society. You can purchase Pinatex by the meter online. The company supports and works closely with rural farmers, as the pineapple fabric is sourced in the Philippines. As such, Pinatex develops a stream of income for the farmers who keep the tradition alive.
