Riddle's Court, Edinburgh

Riddle’s Court, Edinburgh The University of Edinburgh Scottish Centre for Conservation Studies

Group ONE Module AC3 Building Analysis

Prepared for The Scottish Heritage Buildings Trust

November 2013

‘Think Global, Act Local’ SIR PATRICK GEDDES

ACKNOWLED GEMENTS We would lik e t o th a n k R o b i n Ta it , G eoff rey Ste l l a n d D r.

Ru x and r a- I ulia S to i c a fo r their g uid ance a s tu to rs .

Thank s als o g o e s to th e staff of t he S co tti s h H i s to ri c Bu ild ing s Tr us t fo r th e i r eff or t t o s up p or t th i s p ro j e c t.

Riddle’s Court, Edinburgh

The University of Edinburgh Scottish Centre for Conservation Studies

Group ONE Module AC3 Building Analysis Iryani Abdul Halim Choo Ben Furnival Camila Parodi Colin Sim Lilian Tuohy Main Martha Vail

November 2013

F igure 1 : (R CA HMS)

Gen er al v iew of Riddle’s Cour t 199 9

Contents LIST OF IMAGES 6 PART ONE: PROJECT OVERVIEW PROJECT OVERVIEW 8 CONTEXT 12

DEVELOPMENT OF RIDDLE’S COUR T

16

THE DINING ROOM 20

PART TWO: ELEMENTS OF ANALYSIS

THE SOUTH ELEVATION 23

THE DINING ROOM PAINTED CEILING

26

THE DINING ROOM FIREPLACE

28

WEST ELEVATION CLOSET (WITH-THE-ARCH)

31

THE DINING ROOM CLOSET-WITH-THE-STAIR

32

PANELLING & MOULDINGS 34

STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE 43 BIBLIOGRAPHY 46 APENDIX CASE STUDIES

STUDY 1: GLADSTONES LAND, EDINBURGH

49

STUDY 2: HOPETOUN HOUSE, WEST LOTHIAN

51

STUDY 3: DALKEITH HOUSE, WEST LOTHIAN

52

ANLOGUE ON-SITE ANALYSIS 53

List of Images A LL IM A G E S A R E AUT H O R ’ S O WN UN L ES S O T H ER W I S E ATTRI BU TED Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re

1: 2: 3: 4:

Fi gu re 5: Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re

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Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re

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Fi gu re 17: Fi gu re 18: Fi gu re 19: Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re

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Fi gu re 29: Fi gu re 30: Fi gu re 31: Fi gu re 32: Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re

33: 34: 35: 36: 37: 38: 39: 40:

G ene ra l v i e w o f Ri d d l e ’s C o u r t 1999 (R C A H MS) Loca ti o n U K The C i ty o f E d i n b u rg h A er ia l P h o to g ra p h , S i te C u rre n tl y managed by the Scotti sh H i stori c B ui l di ngs Trust, 2013 ( G oo g l e Ma p s ) O rd n a n c e S u rv e y To w n P l a n - Edi nburgh, Sheet Sheet 35 ,1880 (H er Maj esty’s Stationer y O ff ic e ) O n- s i te An a l y s i s O n- s i te An a l y s i s I nit ia l me a s u re me n t a n d tri a n gul ati on sketches M ap o f E d i n b u rg h Wo rl d H e ri ta ge Si te (Edi nburgh Worl d H eri tage) M ap o f Ol d To w n s h o w i n g th e burgage pl ots c1150 from N ai smi th J am e s Go rd o n ma p (1 6 4 7 ) s h o w i ng posi ti on of Law nmarket (9) and narrow burgage plot s ( NLS) Nine te e n th c e n tu r y p l a n fo r Vi c tori a Street (R C A H MS) Nine te e n th c e n tu r y p l a n fo r south of Law nmarket (R C A H MS) S ir Pa tri c k Ge d d e s (N L S ) Tur n o f th e c e n tu r y v i e w o f th e Law nmarket (R C A H MS) E x t r a c t fro m Bra u n a n d H o g e n burg’s pl an, 1582. The approxi mate posi ti on of the Lawn m a rk e t b u i l d i n g s i s o u tl i n ed.(N LS) E x t r a c t fro m S l e z e r’s v i e w, 1 6 93 w i th study area bui l di ngs outl i ned i n B l ue. (N LS) K ing J a m e s V I o f S c o tl a n d , Ki n g James I of Engl and. (Scotti sh Por trai t Gal l er y) J ohn Ka y ’s m a p o f 1 8 3 6 s h o w i ng i mprovements to be carri ed out i n Law nmarket. R iddle’s Cour t h i g h l i g h te d . (N L S ) View o f th e Bo w h e a d . (RC AH M S) Fron t c o v e r o f T h e E v e rg re e n 1 896-7 (Wri ght) Fir s t F l o o r P l a n b y J o h n W P a te rson from 1961 for the refurbi shment of R i ddl e’s C our t R id dl e ’s C o u r t v i e w o f N o r th B lock from the outer cour tyard Failin g c e m e n t h a rl i n g i s g ra d u al l y exposi ng the structural stonew ork beneath P ropo s e d In te rv e n ti o n (S H BT D evel opment A ppl i cati on) 2013 P ropo s e d In te rv e n ti o n (S H BT D evel opment A ppl i cati on) 2013 Cur re n t c o n d i ti o n o f th e D i n i n g R oom 1963 p h o to g ra p h o f th e fo r m e r U ni versi ty H al l di ni ng room w i th the 1897 cei l i ng bef ore ref urb i s h me n t a n d th e mo d e r n dark col our scheme to the w al l s (R C A H MS) P lan o f th e D i n i n g R o o m s h o w i ng i ncremental changes made betw een 1890 and 1961 S ecti o n , l o o k i n g S o u th , D i n i n g R oom hi ghl i ghted i n bl ue (SH B T D evel opment A ppl i c at ion) S outh E l e v a ti o n to Vi c to ri a S tre et Terrace, D i ni ng R oom hi ghl i ghted i n bl ue (SH B T Dev e l o p m e n t Ap p l i c a ti o n ) 2 0 1 3 E d in b u rg h , Gra s s m a rk e t i l l u s trati ng the topography before the i nterventi on of Vi ctor ia Ter r a c e (R C A H MS ) I llustra ti o n o f p ro p o s e d c i ty i m provements (R C A H MS) P lan o f a re a s h o w i n g Vi c to ri a Street (B ow Street) as to be al tered (R C A H MS) The S o u th fa ç a d e to d a y R eco g n i s i n g 5 0 0 y e a rs o f Ri d dl es C our t hi stor y R em e mb e ri n g J o h n Ma c Mo rra n The c o a t o f a r m s , a t th e c e n tre of the cei l i ng Ceili n g i n a l mo s t i ts e n ti re ty (SH B T) P rov e rb s q u o ta ti o n

Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re

41: 42: 43: 44: 45: 46: 47:

Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re

48: 49: 50: 51: 52: 55: 53: 54: 56: 57: 58: 60: 59: 61: 62: 63: 64: 65: 66: 67: 68:

Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re Fi gu re

69: 70: 71: 72: 73: 74: 75: 76: 77:

R id dl e s C o u r t c e i l i n g p ri o r to restorati on (SH B T) Nor t h E l e v a ti o n , l o c a ti o n o f fi repl ace l ocated i n bl ue M ea s u re d d ra w i n g o f e x i s ti n g f i repl ace E x is ti n g fi re p l a c e Det a i l o f fi re p l a c e m o u l d i n g Det a i l o f fi re p l a c e m o u l d i n g Firepl a c e , H u n tl y H o u s e , 1 4 2 C anongate Seventeenth C entur y Orw el l R oom fi repl ace ( R CAH M S ) O r we l l R o o m fi re p l a c e (R C A H MS) Fir s t F l o o r P l a n , 1 9 5 1 (RC AH M S) B r ick a rc h o f We s t e l e v a ti o n c l oset Floor P l a n (R o o m Ga z e te e r, C ari el l o) P res e n t c o n d i ti o n o f th e c u p b oard I nt eri o r v i e w -o f th e h i d d e n s ta ir from the fi rst fl oor I nt eri o r v i e w o f s ta i r fro m s e c o nd fl oor S m a l l ro o m o n s e c o n d fl o o r P rof i l e o f Mo u l d i n g Huntl y H o u s e (RC AH M S ) I nt eri o r d e ta i l i n g H u n tl y H o u s e (R C A H MS) Theo r y o f Mo u l d i n g s (Wa l k e r) M ou l d i n g d e ta i l M ou l d i n g D e ta i l I nt eri o r E l e v a ti o n We s t, 1 :5 0 I nt eri o r E l e v a ti o n E a s t, 1 :5 0 I nt eri o r E l e v a ti o n , S o u th 1 : 5 0 I nt eri o r E l e v a ti o n , N o r th , 1 : 5 0 Thre e D i me n s i o n a l m o d e l l i n g of D i ni ng R oom J am e s Go rd o n , T h e P l a n o f E di nburgh Exactl y done, 1647 (Facsi mi l e, 1690), N LS Cop y o f e tc h i n g b y T S te w a r t from W i l son’s Memori al s show i ng N os 334-340 Law nm ar ket , f rom C a s tl e h i l l , R C A H MS S it e p l a n s h o w i n g p i e rs o f n e w bri dge and par t of Vi ctori a Street, 1829, R C A H MS G ene ra l v i e w o f e l e v a ti o n to Mi l ne’s C our t, R C A H MS Floor p l a n o f Gl a d s to n e ’s L a n d (R C A H MS) Faca d e S k e tc h o f Gl a d s to n e ’s Land R ena i s s a n c e p a i n te d c e i l i n g o f Gl adstone’s Land (R C A H MS) The D ra w i n g Ro o m a t Gl a d s to ne’s Land (N TS) Com p a ra ti v e i n te ri o r d e ta i l i n g at H opetoun H ouse and exteri or el evati on (R C A H MS) 51 I nt eri o r d e ta i l i n g o f D a l k e i th H ouse 52 P r im a r y fa c a d e o f D a l k e i th H o u se (R C A H MS) 52

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Project Overview SITE Located at 322 Lawnmarket, Riddle’s Cour t documents in its ver y walls the evolution of Edinburgh’s Old Town over six centuries.

From its origins as the late-medieval tow n house of a wealthy merchant to its current but longstanding service as a centre for adult lear ning, Riddle’s Cour t has been changed in material ways but continuously maintained relevance to the needs of its occupants, and its community. A unique survival—a fundamentally intact cour tyard house—Riddle’s Cour t merits its categor y A-listing, contributes significantly to the Edinburgh World Heritage Site, and displays most the character-defining elements of the Old Town Conservation Area.

APPROACH Complete understanding of how, when, and why material changes to Riddle’s Cour t occurred eludes conservationists even as fur ther adaption of the building into The Patrick Geddes Centre for Lear ning and Conservation is planned. Riddle’s Cour t is indeed a riddle. Or, perhaps it is more apt to think of it as a puzzle, one whose pieces have changed shape and even location over time.

Figure 2:

Location UK

Figure 3:

The City of Edinburgh

This repor t offers fur ther analysis of Riddle’s Cour t, with a par ticular focus on the largest room located of the first floor of the south block of the building. Currently, an adjacent room to its east and the study room are collectively called the Geddes Rooms. In other publications and repor ts, the room has been called the Green Room or the upper hall. Although the room is presently used as a multi-function meeting room, it served as a dining room for much of its histor y and this repor t will refer to the study room as the Dining Room.

F igure 4 :

Aeri al Phot ogr aph, Sit e Cur r ent ly m a n a g e d b y t h e S c o t t i s h H i s t o r i c B u i l d i n g s Tr u s t , 2 0 1 3 ( G o o g l e M a p s)

F igure 5 :

Ordn anc e Sur v ey Town Plan - Edi n b u r g h , S h e e t S h e e t 3 5 , 1 8 8 0 ( H e r M a j e s t y ’ s S t a t i o n e r y O ffi ce )

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METHODOLOGY The survey team, six post-graduate students studying Architectural Conservation at the Scottish Centre for Conservation Studies at the University of Edinburgh, comprised a range of exper tise and experience: architecture, histor y, histor y of ar t and architecture, engineering and conservation. We took an interdisciplinar y approach to our project brief, which tasked us with analyzing the context and development of Riddle’s Cour t and presenting our analysis along with a Statement of Cultural Significance.

Our study is grounded on close visual observation of the dining room and the building, suppor ted by hand sketching and photography. We under took a basic survey using water level, plumb line and triangulation to create a set of measured drawings.

Computer-aided design enabled us to then produce more detailed plans and elevations.

At the same time, our team reviewed the existing secondar y sources to develop a timeline of the histor y of Riddle’s Cour t, to deter mine whether contemporar y structures shed light on changes at Riddle’s Cour t, and to assess the context for the structure within the urban fabric of Edinburgh.

STRUCTURE OF REPOR T

Figure 6:

On-site Analysis

The repor t reflects our multi-faceted approach.

First, it lays out the overall historic context of Riddle’s Cour t, establishing the ways in which Riddle’s Cour t both embodies and, in many cases stands as the sole testament to, the complex development of Edinburgh’s urban landscape.

Its next task is to demonstrate the architectural development of Riddle’s Cour t, focusing on the changes to the Dining Room over time. This par t of the repor t depends on large par t on visual analysis, with narrative intended to highl ight key historical moments significant to the overall assessment of the building’s development. Our concer n was to avoid replicating detailed accounts of the histor y of Riddle’s Cour t easily accessible elsewhere while providing sufficient framework to demonstrate a sound understanding of the building’s histor y.

Riddle’s Cour t is the only intact cour tyard house in the World Heritage Site. However, contemporar y buildings offer useful points of comparison and contrast. The third par t of this repor t explores how other structures in Edinburgh’s Old Town can infor m our understanding of Riddle’s Cour t, and the Dining Room in par ticular.

The repor t then drills down to six impor tant features of the Dining Room, each of which tells an impor tant stor y about the development of the room, and of Riddle’s Cour t:

Figure 7:

On-site Analysis

A

The south elevation, utterly changed when Victoria Terrace was created in the nineteenth centur y.

B

The ceiling, a painted fantasy recalling the majesty of much more ancient traditions within Riddle’s Cour t.

C

The fireplace, whose seemingly humble surround belies its grand past.

D

The wester n closet, which contains a mysterious arch.

E

The nor th closet, where a disused stair hides.

F

The panelling, an ensemble that looks continuous but may in fact be merely contiguous.

F igure 8 :

Initia l m eas ur em ent and t r iangulati o n s k e t c h e s

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Historic Urban Context

With its narrow pends, closes and cour tyards the Old Town has become defined by its medieval “fishbone” street patter n. Its for m still reflects that of burgage plots, the ancient feudal system which allowed for development on the king’s land. This intricate streetscape, then devoid of light and sanitation, led to the deterioration of the Old Town in the eighteenth centur y and the building of the New Town. Its picturesque and historic qualities also led to the interest of polymath Sir Patrick Geddes, and has since contributed to Edinburgh’s World Heritage Site status.

Lying at the centre of the Old Town, Riddle’s Cour t lies on the Royal Mile’s Lawnmarket.

Designated in 1477 as a marketplace, the Lawnmarket was home not only to merchants, but also to aristocrats, churchmen and people of high social standing. Such was its stature, it was ev en known to accommodate ambassadors from England 1 and James VI held a banquet here, to drum up suppor t for his claim to the English throne. Protected by the steep banks of the Edinburgh ridge, stretching from the Castle to the Palace of Holyrood, the Lawnmarket was a hive of commercial and social activity.

The street patter n of the Lawnmarket, then and now, is dictated by that of the burgage plot or ‘toft’. Dr Brewster’s Edinburgh Encyclopaedia, printed in 1830, refers to the burgage tenure as an arrangement whereby a proprietor within a borough holds land on behalf of the monarch and is required to provide a service to the borough or pay a rental charge: 2 This land was owned by the king, but was granted to citizens who were allowed to build and trade on the site.

Andrew Wr ig ht , R i d d l e ’s C o u r t, E d i n b u rg h : C onse r v at ion S t at eme n t, (E d i n b u rg h : C o c k b u r n C onse r v at ion Tr us t , 2 0 0 8 ), 1 3 2 D avi d B rews t er, Th e E d i n b u rg h E n c l o y p e d i a , (Edi n b ur g h: B lack w o o d , 1 8 3 0 ),1 0 5 1

Figure 9: M a p o f E d i n b u r g h Wo r l d H e r i t a g e Si te ( E d i n b u r g h Wo r l d H e r i t a g e )

Figure 10: M a p o f O l d To w n s h o w i n g t h e b u r g a g e p l o t s c 11 5 0 f r o m N a i s m i t h

F igure 11 :

Ja mes G or don m ap ( 1647) s howing p o s i t i o n o f L a w n m a r k e t ( 9 ) a n d n a r r o w b u r g a g e p l o t s ( N L S)

The tofts ran downhill in a nor th-south direction, perpendicular to the spine of the Old Town ridge. They were approximately 450ft in length but their width was rarely greater than 26ft. 3 Shops would be open at street level and pends would lead to workshops or homes beyond the shops, with staircases leading to upper levels of accommodation. The backs, the long, narrow burgage rigs, were commonly used for keeping livestock and for the cultivation of vegetables.

Increasingly high gabled houses filled the Old Town; height being a way of navigating around the confines of the narrow burgage plot. In A Histor y of Scottish Architecture 4 , the authors note that the buil dings behind the street fronts in Edinburgh were, similar to European counterpar ts, subdivided horizontally and ver tically. Multipl e occupancy on one burgage plot was common, despite the oft-elevated status of the residents.

Wri ght , 12.

Mi l es G lend inning ,R a n a l d Ma c In n e s , a n d Aonghus MacKe chnis , A His to r y o f S c o tti s h Arc h i te c tu re: fro m the R enais s an c e to th e P re s e n t D a y (E d i nburgh :Edi nb ur g h Univ er s i ty P re s s , 1 9 9 6 ), 6 2 .

3

Of the many merchants and burgess holders of Edinburgh, Bailie John McMorran was said, at the time of his death in 1595, to have been the richest. McMorran was an impor tant man and he was billed to become Lord Provost, dying before he had the oppor tunity to tr y for the post.

McMorran lived at Riddle’s Cour t, a proper ty acquired by his father in the mid-sixteenth centur y. McMorran prepared a case for development of his plot in 1590. In a depar ture from similar burgess sites, he didn’t intend to live above the shop on the High Street but instead established for himself an abode situated at the backlands, behind the hustle and bustle and crowded conditions immediately on the street. By doing this, McMorran improved security, ventilation and sanitation. And by constructing the building of modest height McMorran ensured, in his lifetime, its single-family occupancy.

The McMorran family were associated with the site until almost 1700, although much of the land had apparently been sold in the early seventeenth centur y, Riddle’s Cour t being subdivided the way of most plots on the Lawnmarket and High Street. 5

4

5

Wri ght, 21.

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Indeed, the number of households in the Old Town doubled between 1580 and 1635 and probl ems of insanitation remained until the 19th centur y. But the impor tance of the area continued into the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

Intricate and accomplished plaster ceilings were introduced in the seventeenth centuries and grand improvements were seen into the eighteenth, with the inser tion of paneled rooms, one of which is now the Dining Room, and the Norie panels painted for the middle range of the nor th-east house. During the mideighteenth centur y, the eminent thinker David Hume resided in the Close and at some point at the end of the eighteenth centur y, dado paneling and two fine neo-Classical fireplaces were introduced to the souther n house. But the old and crowded, unhealthy, Old Town was beginning to lose its sheen. The construction of the New Town sealed its fate for the next 150 years. It was no longer the desired neighbourhood for well-heeled Edinburgh folk.

Riddles Cour t, with its once grand neighbours, became a home for the less affluent and its condition deteriorated.

In an attempt to reverse the area’s decline in the eighteenth centur y the Netherbow Por t was demolished to give better access to the Royal Mile. Then, a hundred years later, huge bridges – South and Nor th bridge - were constructed to add light and movement to the Old Town. Victoria Street was carved into the backlands in 1837 according to contemporar y newspaper repor ts. 6 But battling insanitar y conditions and a great risk of fire, the City elders realised that drastic action was needed and the City Improvement Act was brought into force in 1867. At this time, Jeffrey and Cockbur n Street were created, allowing traffic and light to penetrate much fur ther into the dark and warren-like Old Town. Huge swathes were taken out of the burgage tofts and their extensive gardens, and much historic fabric was removed. In the 1890s, some of Riddles Cour t was cleared away to give more air and light to the remai ning buildings. But building thinning continued right into the twentieth centur y for the Old Town.

Many did not deny the necessity of the Improvement Act, but some lamented the continued destruction of historic buildings in the Old Town. One such man was Sir Patrick Geddes. Geddes was a major proponent of “conservative surger y”, an approach gathering ground in neighbouring England.

His first attempt at this in Edinburgh was at James Cour t, where he tur ned a row of slum tenements into a single home and conservatively thinned the neighbouring fabric, keeping the most impor tant of houses, but allowing improvement flow or air and light.

6

Wri ght , 32.

Figure 12: (RCAHMS)

N i n e t e e n t h c e n t u r y p l a n f o r Vi c t o r i a Str e e t

Figure 13: N i n e t e e n t h c e n t u r y p l a n f o r s o u th o f Lawnmarket (RCAHMS)

Figure 14:

Sir Patrick Geddes (NLS)

F igure 1 5:

Tu rn of t he c ent ur y v iew of t he Law n m a r k e t ( R C A H M S )

He referred to this as his “conservative yet constructive attitude” which he felt would lead to social good, as well as preserve historical fabric. 7 In 1889, Sir Patrick and his backers bought Riddle’s Cour t and its Mechanics Subscription Librar y, which was based in the building (and perhaps saved it from fur ther deterioration).

Buoyed by his successful effor ts on the Mound, students were invited to move into new university accommodation he establ ished there in 1890. In preparation of the building, many improvements were made. Although their exact nature is unknown, contemporar y sources indicate that they were conducted in the conservative surger y mold championed by Geddes. It was at this time that the painted ceiling was executed in what now refered to as the Geddes or Di ning Room.

Riddles Cour t has spent the last centur y since Geddes’ involvement still playing an impor tant role in the city of Edinburgh. After a spell as university halls, it was used as a venue for church meetings and then Fringe events.

For the last fifty years it has been home to the Workers’ Educational Association, a role that continues. It is now hoped that funding will be secured to allow the Scottish Historic Buildings Trust to tur n Riddle’s Cour t into the Patrick Geddes Centre, where his understanding of ‘Vivendo Discimus’ will be championed.

H el e n M eller, P at ri c k Ge d d e s : S o c i a l E v o l u ti oni st a nd Cit y P lanner ( L o n d o n ; Ro u tl e d g e , 1 9 9 0 ), 235.

7

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Physical Evolution of Riddles Court The stor y of Riddle’s Cour t begins in 1590 as Bailie John McMorran petitions the council to demolish a ruined building on the site and build a new merchant’s house. From here, centuries of changing patrons, building requirements and ways of thinking have made it a complicated site to understand (especially as the majority of changes to the built fabric are undocumented before 1889 8 .)

However, the prominence of its position with the city of Edinburgh and the overall splendor of the building have continually attracted fur ther investment in the centuries after McMorran’s time. The following infor mation serves to give a brief introduction to the rich cultural, social and physical changes that have accorded on this site throughout this time. There are still many elements of historical development that remain unclear and beg fur ther investigation.

8

Wri ght , 2.

Significant Cultural Events EARLY HISTORY

1477 Designation of the Lawnmarket as a marketplace 1590 Bailie John McMorran petitions the council to demolish a ruined building on the site and build a new mansion for himself.

16TH AND 17TH CENTURIES

1 5 9 8 Riddles Cour t hosts a royal banquet for King James VI and his Queen.

18TH CENTURY

1 7 2 6 George Riddell a wealthy tradesman of the town reconstructs the par ts of the building facing the Lawnmarket, and the proper ty becomes known as Riddell’s Cour t.

The names Riddle’s Cour t / Close begin to appear in documents.

1 7 5 1 David Hume moves into an apar tment in Riddles Cour t with his sister and a small household of domestic servants, commenting: “With frugality, I can reach, I find, cleanliness, war mth, light, plenty, and contentment” 9 .

F igure 1 6: Extra c t f r om B raun an d Ho ge nb urg ’s plan, 1582.

T he app roximate po si t ion of t he Law nmarket b uild ing s is out lined.

(N LS )

Figur e 18: King James VI of Sc ot land, K i n g J a m e s I o f E n g l a n d . ( Sc ot t is h P o r t r a i t G a l l e r y )

1 6 1 6 Subdivision of the proper ty begins with Ninian McMorran selling the fore tenement of the great tenement 1 7 t h ce n tu r y Addition of fine plasterwork ceilings

F igure 1 7: Extra c t f r om Slez er ’s view, 1 69 3 with stu dy ar ea buildings outlined in Blu e. (NL S)

Mi d 16t h cen t u r y

MacMorran family buys the Riddles Cour t plot

1 6 3 0 back tenement sold

by Ninian McMorran to Sir John Smith of Grothill, later Lord Provost, for 12,000 merks First quar ter 18th centur y: Duchess of Buccleugh invests in the building’s restoration and purchases two expensive fireplaces for her suite. Fine panelling is also inser ted.

David Hume (Scottish Por trait Galler y)

Page 17

19TH CENTURY

Lat e 18t h ce n t u r y

Dado paneling and fireplaces added to the South block.

1828 Victoria Terrace: implementation of the City Improvement plan.

1 8 6 7 Improvement Act saw the introduction of sanitar y provision to Riddle’s Close, although, by this time most respectable tenants had left.

1 8 8 7 Patrick Geddes holds the first university summer school and the building becomes a student residence.

1 8 9 2 the architects S.Henbest Capper and George Shaw Aitken reconstructed Riddle’s Cour t for Patrick Geddes as a University Hall.

Par t of the building facing the Lawnmarket was demolished.

By the end of the Second World War the proper t y had rever ted back to its earlier dilapidated state, and in 1 9 4 7 Riddles Cour t was taken into the care of the City of Edinburgh Council.

The 1 9 6 0 ’s saw the implementation of a regeneration scheme which recognized the impor t ance of the historic linkages with the pioneering educational initiatives.

F igure 1 9: Jo hn Kay ’s m ap of 1836 sh owin g imp rovem ent s t o be carried o ut in La wnma r k et . Riddle’s C ourt high ligh ted . (NLS)

Figur e 21: Front cover of The Ev er gr een 1 8 9 6 - 7 ( Wr i g h t )

F igure 2 0: (R CA HMS)

Vie w of t he Bowhead.

It was saved from catastrophic loss at the end of the nineteenth centur y when the impor tance of the site was recognised by Patrick Geddes and his colleagues, who, driven by social conscience in the face of the appalling slum tenements of the Old Town secured new uses for it as par t of a wider programme of renewal for the closes and cour ts.

Figure 22: F i r s t F l o o r Pl a n b y J o h n W P a t e r s o n f r o m 1 9 6 1 fo r th e r e f u r b i s h m e n t o f R i d d l e ’ s C ou r t

20TH AND 21ST CENTURIES

In 1964 it was opened as adult education rooms and is now used as the offices of the WEA (Worker’s Educational Association) Scotland.

The exterior of Riddle’s Cour t is currently in a state of disrepair.

Current Sit ua t i o n

Figur e 24: Failing cement har ling is g r a d u a l l y e x p o s i n g t h e s t r uc t ur al s t o n e w o r k b e n e a t h

S e p t e m b e r, 2 0 1 3

The Development Application for the Patrick Geddes Centre for Lear ning and Conservation (LDN Architects) was submitted to the City of Edinburgh Council.

Figure 26: P r o p o s e d I n te r ve n ti o n ( S H B T D e v e l o p m e n t A p p l i c a ti o n ) 2 0 1 3

To b e c o n tin u e d...

F igure 2 3: Ridd le’s Cour t v iew of N orth Block fro m the out er c our t y ar d

B r yan, El i zabeth and A licia B ruse, eds. Vi vendo D i s cism us: by l i vi ng w e l ear n. The Lif e and Ti mes of R i ddl e’s C our t, 15902007. (Edi nburgh: Worke r s’ Educati onal A ssoci ati on, 2007) , 26-27.

9

Figur e 25: Proposed Intervention ( SHBT De v e l o p m e n t A p p l i c a t i o n ) 2 0 1 3

Page 19

The Dining Room HISTORIC USE Dining room during university halls era and earlier, possibly even at the time of famous royal banquet in 1598.

CURRENT USE Currently used as one of the main rooms on display for the Scotland HIstoric Building Trusts (SHBT) open day tours of Riddle’s Cour t and as event space (e.g. presentations, exhibitions etc.). Currently referred to as the “Geddes Room”. 10 ISSUES Maintenance of painted ceiling: risk of fading from south sunlight, plus ceiling movementcracks developing; in need of re-painting and carpeting (not urgent).

HISTORY OF ALTERATIONS Eighteenth Centur y Alterations/ Developments: - Addition of panelling - Change in use of cupboard (Nor ther n wall) which probably acted as a service door to the dini ng room before Geddes’ intervention. This suggestion is strengthened by the blocked stair (perhaps for servants entr y).

The painted ceiling is an 1890s addition.

Twentieth Centur y Developments: - 1963: Restoration work, including the painting of the panelled walls - Restorati on of the painted ceiling (circa 1996) - Additions of radiators, cur tains and light

F igure 2 7:

Curre nt c ondit ion of t he Dining Roo m

F igure 2 8: 19 63 phot ogr aph of t he f or m er Univ e r s i t y H a l l d i n i n g r o o m w i t h t h e 1 8 9 7 c e i l i n g b e f o r e r e f u r b ish m e n t and t he mo de rn d ark c olour s c hem e t o t he walls ( R C A H M S ) (S HB T)

10

Mar io Car iello, R i d d l e ’s C o u r t: Ro o m Ga z e t eer (Edi nburgh: Scotti sh H i stori c B ui l di ngs Trust, 201 2) , 20

F igu re 2 9:

Plan of t he Dining Room s how i n g i n c r e m e n t a l c h a n g e s m a d e b e t w e e n 1 8 9 0 a n d 1 9 6 1

1890

1897

1951

1961

Page 21

F igure 3 0:

Section, look ing Sout h, Dining Roo m h i g h l i g h t e d i n b l u e ( S H B T D e v e l o p m e n t A p p l i c a t i o n ) 2 0 1 3

F igure 3 1: Sou th Elev at ion t o Vic t or ia St r eet Te r r a c e , D i n i n g R o o m h i g h l i g h t e d i n b l u e ( S H B T D e v e l o p m en t A pplication ) 20 13

Elements of Analysis T H E SOUTH EL E VATI O N By 1702, the tenement had been divided into two separate proper ties (presumably by Roderick MacKenzie of Prestonhall); 11 This had involved the addition of three new extensions which were located on the south-west, the south-east, and on the west of the tenement; “All and haill that upper lodgeing in the backland lyeing upon the south syde of the land mercat of Edinburgh in the closs of old called McMorrans closs, And which lodgeing is presently possest be us, Consisting of ane outer room, Dyneing room, & Draweing room, in the body of the laigh hous with three rooms above them, with ane room and closet in the south west Jamm,23 And Kitchen and room above it in the new west Jamm, with two rooms two closets and ane wardrop in the south east Jamm, with ane Chamber and two little rooms upon the entrie, Togither with the Cellaris or Volts belonging to the said lodgeing, And as the samen is more par ticularly bounded and comprehended in the original rights and securities thairoff, All lyeing upon the west syde of the Brode stair as goes to the garden”. 12

This is one of three references in the accounts to thatching associated with the main structure between 1714 and 1715. It thus seems logical to suggest that the entire roof was slated at some point post-1715.

WINDOWS Between Januar y 1715 and December 1729 the accounts that a vast amount of renovation work was under taken on the windows of the upper lodging, par ticularly in relation to their cases, lead weights, shutters, and cords. 1 4

The major point of interest in this description is the mention of the broad stair to the east of the tenement, which led to a garden. This may be a reference to the stairs still found centrally in the tenement, which leads southwards through the basement area to Victoria Street.

THE ROOF EXTERIOR Like the outer fabric of the building, the accounts indicate that the roof of the tenement was in need of serious attention after 1714.

This process began before 22 December of that year when a slater called Rober t Jack was paid £14 3s 8d for under taking pointing, slating, ridging, and thatching work across different par ts of the roof. 13 11 R id dle ’s Cou r t Histor ical Res earch: Edit ed Ex t r ac t of S HBT Dra ft Repor t, ( Edinbur gh: Scot t is h His t or ic a l B uild ings Trust, 20 13 ) , 11.

12 S H B T Dra ft Repor t, 11.

13 S H B T Dra ft Repor t, 24.

Figure 32: E d i n b u r g h , G r a s s m a r k e t i l l u s t r a ti n g th e t o p o g r a p h y b e f o r e t h e i n t e r v e n t i o n o f Vi c t o r i a Ter r a ce (RCAHMS)

14

SHBT Draft Report, 25.

Page 23

VICTORIA TERRACE: IMPLEMENTATION OF THE 1828 IMPROVEMENT PLAN: By the early nineteenth centur y the need for far reaching and radical changes with the Old Town were underpinned by the three disastrous fires that raged between the Tron church and Parliament Square. The steep, awkward incline of the old West Bow was the only feasible passage for those wishing to access the Lawnmarket and Edinburgh Castle from the west. 15

W. Smith stated that with a view of enhancing the value of the whole proper ty and enlarging the shop he had caused the survey or to measure and calculate the expense of taking down the whole front and rebuilding it forward to the per manent curved line of Bow Terrace.

The 1828 plan of the route of the proposed Victoria Street (Figure 35) clearly shows two buildings projecting from the main core block of the south wing (or ‘main house’) that were removed. It is presumed that that one or both relate to the ‘back jambs’ off the main house’ mentioned as added in 1702 above.

The Commissioners record books has provided infor mation on the conditions of the buildings prior to construction, including the scale of the now demolished wings. The Februar y 1836 entr y contained the statement: “W. S mith laid upon the table the working plans of the house in Riddle’s Cour t the low par t of which is to be conver ted into shops fronti ng the terrace and otherwise improved.”

16

D av id M clean, Lo s t E d i n b u rg h : T h e C re a ti o n of Vi ctor ia S t reet , The S c o ts m a n , J u l y, 2 0 1 3 .

16 SH B T, 29.

15

Fig u re 33: (RCAHMS)

I l l u s t r a t i o n o f p r o p o s e d c i t y i m p r o ve m e n ts

Figure 34: P l a n o f a r e a s h o w i n g Vi c t o r i a S tr e e t ( Bo w Street) as to be altered (RCAHMS)

CURRENT SITUATION: Categor y: A Date of Listing 14-DEC-1970 3-storey and attic 5-bay elevation with crowsteppped dor merheaded windows (that to centre for merly apex stack) breaking eaves at 3rd floor, arcaded to ground floor. Coursed ashlar.

Deep cor nice to ground floor. Hoodmoulded round-arched openings to arcade; timber panelled doors alter nate with windows; scrolled console above doorway at centre. Lugged architraves to windows at 1st and 2nd floors; keyblocked to 1st floor.

18-pane glazing in timber sash and case windows to Lawnmarket block; 12-pane glazing in timber sash and case windows to Riddle’s Close and Victoria Terrace. Graded grey slates. Tall brick ridge stack to Lawnmarket; vestiges of rubble stacks to Riddle’s Close. Cast-iron down pipe with decorative hopper to Victoria Terrace. 1 7

F igure 3 5:

Th e S out h f aç ade t oday

17 H i st or ic S cot land , “ S ta tu to r y L i s t o f L i s te d Bui l di ngs,” H i stori c Scotl and D ata Websi te, N ovember 13, 2013

Page 25

Elements of Analysis THE PAIN TE D C E I L I NG The elaborate compar tmented painted ceiling at Riddles Cour t was introduced by Sir Patrick Geddes in 1897. It was one of his final alterations to Riddle’s Cour t in what was then the dining room. For the design and execution, he tur ned to Thomas Bonnar and it would surely have provided a stark contrast to the monochrome wall sur faces chosen by Geddes for elsewhere in the building.

It is possible that the geometric design of the ceiling was inspired by the Jacobean plaster ceiling in the neighbouring room and the painting of timber teams breaks down what is a large expanse of plain plaster. The subject of the ceiling’s panels, of which there are more than for ty, are all associated with Riddle’s Cour t, Edinburgh or the University. John MacMorran is cited as the owner of Riddles Cour t at the time of its construction and the banquet for James VI is mentioned, as a hugely impor tant day in the histor y of the site.

Others refer to the foundation of the School of Medicine and the (then recent) construction of the McEwan Hall. Distinctly Scottish motifs the thistle and St Andrew’s flag, are also included.

Figure 36: history

Recognising 500 years of Riddles Court

Figure 37:

Remembering John MacMorran

Figure 38: ceiling

T h e c o a t o f a r m s , a t t h e c e n t r e o f th e

Each painted panel is surrounded by decorative flora and fauna but the centrepiece of the ceiling is a coat of ar ms, that of the City of Edinburgh. A maiden and a hind suppor t the ar morial shield. The hind, to the right, is a symbol of St Egidius, who is Edinburgh’s patron saint. The maiden likely is a nod to the Castle’s status as a legendar y refuge for princesses. 18 The motto, “Nisi Dominus Frustra: is quoted from Psalm 127 but is not the only biblical quotation on the ceiling. “I love them that love me; and those that seek me early shall find me”, which sits by the windows onto Victoria Street, is taken from Proverbs 8:17.

18

John M cG ov er n, c i te d i n Br y a n a n d B ru c e , Vi ve nd o Dis cim us : By L i v i n g We L e a r n ; T h e Li fe and Tim es of R id d le s C o u r t 1 5 9 0 -2 0 0 7 , (E d i n burgh Wo rker s E d ucat ion Tru s t, 2 0 0 7 ), 4 0 .

Figure 39:

Ceiling in almost its entirety (SHBT)

T h e c e i l i n g m e n t i o n s t h e a rc h i t e c t s i n v o l v e d i n t h e re s t o r a t i o n o f t h e b u i l d i n g i n t h e l a t e 1 9 t h c e n t u r y. T h e y a re c i t e d b y n a m e a n d t h e year of their involvement with Riddles Court: S . M i t c h e l l a n d W i l s o n , 1 8 9 0 ; S . H . C a p p e r, 1 8 9 2 ; G . S . A i t k e n , 1 8 9 5 . O n a n a r t i s t ’s m i x i n g p a l a t e , t h o s e t a s k e d w i t h e x e c u t i n g B o n n a r ’s d e s i g n a re a l s o c re d i t e d .

M i k e P r y o r, f o r t h e C i t y o f E d i n b u r g h , re s t o re d t h e c e i l i n g i n 1 9 9 6 . H e re m o v e d a s t a i n e d varnish that had distorted the ceilings colours a n d c l e a n e d a w a y a c e n t u r y ’s s o o t a n d g r i m e f ro m t h e c h i m n e y. H e a l s o a d d re s s e d f l o o d d a m a g e f ro m a n u p s t a i r s w a s h i n g m a c h i n e , w h i c h h a d l e f t e x t e n s i v e w o r k re q u i re d . T h e o c c a s i o n o f t h i s re s t o r a t i o n i s a l s o re c o rd e d o n the ceiling.

Figure 40:

Figure 41: (SHBT)

Riddles Court ceiling prior to restoration

Proverbs quotation

Page 27

Elements of Analysis THE DINI NG R O O M FI R E P L A CE The only remaining original marble surround in Riddle’s Cour t is located on the easter n half of the nor ther n elevation of the dining room. 1 9 Constructed of veined marble, polished and with a roll moulding, displaying neither die blocks nor mantelpiece, the fireplace is currently not in use and in good condition.

The fireplace is well integrated in the paneling scheme of the entire room, with two rectangular panels centered above the marble fire surround. Since the placement of the fireplace likely predates the installation of the room’s wooden panelling, the arrangement of the later panels and entr y door adds a sense of cohesion and a simulates symmetr y to the room.

F igure 4 2:

North Elev at ion, loc at ion of f ir epla c e l o c a t e d i n b l u e

It is likely that the upper of these panels once contained a painting or mirror. Similarly, the lower panel may originally have contained more elaborate plaster or carved marble moulding.

This type of elaboration would have been in keeping with fashions contemporar y to its installation, in the first quar ter of the eighteenth centur y. The occupant of the south block of Riddle’s Cour t at that time, Anne, Duchess of Buccleuch, under took a program of redecoration that reflected and reinforced the elite status of a Riddle’s Cour t address. 2 0 The duchess ordered a pair of marble fireplaces from London in the spring of 1717, one of which was installed in the dining room and another in the adjoining drawing room by the masons Richard Smith, William Thorbur n and James Clerk at a cost of £44, 4s, 4d. 21 (It is unclear whether the uses of the two rooms now collectively known as the Geddes Rooms were exchanged during much of the eighteenth centur y, with the larger of the two being used as a drawing room.)

19 20 21

SH B T, 23.

Wri ght , 24 and S H BT,1 0 .

SH B T, 23.

Figu re 3 6

F igure F igure F igure F igure

4 3: 4 4: 4 5: 4 6:

Figure 47:

F i r e p l a c e , H u n t l y H o u s e , 1 4 2 C an o n g a te

Figure 48: (RCAHMS)

1 7 t h C e n t u r y O r w e l l R o o m f i r e p la ce

Mea s ur ed dr awing of ex is t ing f ir ep l a c e Exist ing f ir eplac e Deta il of f ir eplac e m oulding Deta il of f ir eplac e m oulding

A fireplace surround of similar design and age, though less elegant material, can be found at Huntly House, 142 Canongate. The roll moulding of the dining room fireplace may also have inspired the design of wooden fire sourrounds in the nor th block of Riddle’s Cour t.

Simple and elegant, the marble fireplace surround in the dining room must have had enduring appeal to its owners, since no evidence exists that it has ever been removed and/or placed into storage, as happened in the east room of the ground floor (now the Orwell Room), to be replaced by more or nate style in the later par t of the seventeenth centur y.

A plan drawn for RCAHMS in 1951, but based on a previous 1937 effor t, indicates the dining room fireplace in its current location during the first phase of development at Riddle’s Cour t, in the late sixteenth centur y.

Page 29

1 . That before the widespread adoption of Renaissance neo-classical ideas and architectural practices in Scotland, symmetr y wasn’t all that impor tant; a fireplace was placed where it needed to be. Indeed, into the late medieval period fireplaces were often more status symbols, demonstrating the grand nature of a room and not actually functioning much to heat it, that function being per for med by por table braziers.

2 .That the fireplace was symmetrical in the room, but the room has changed. We know that the south block of Riddle’s Cour t has changed dramatically over its histor y. Surely the layout of the room was affected by the joining of the two south block houses in the seventeenth centur y. We also know that the south block was built out during a series of three extensions (the other two were to the south-east and west of the block) by 1702, during the time the building was owned by Roderick Mackenzie. 22 However, it’s unlikely that the most significant alteration to the room—entirely new south elevation during the construction of Victoria Terrace—affected the relationship of the fireplace to the room much, since by 1837 the basic configuration of the room and its relationship to adjacent rooms was established

F igure 4 9:

Orwell Room f ir eplac e ( RCAHM S)

A plan drawn for RCAHMS in 1951, but based on a previous 1937 effor t, indicates the dining room fireplace in its current location during the first phase of development at Riddle’s Cour t, in the late sixteenth centur y.

3 . That the fireplace was not originally symmetrical in the room and isn’t now, but was at some point in the past. Sources note a kitchen attached to the high hall between 1630 and 1684. 23 There is a fireplace on the west elevation of the ground floor room below the dining room; creating an opening f or a first-floor service fireplace would have been a simple under taking. Could the setback on the west side of the nor th elevation that contains the door be a trace of a par tition—later removed to recreate the larger room for use as a drawing room—that separated this kitchen from the dining room?

22 23

F igure 5 0:

First Floor Plan, 1951 ( RCAHM S)

This positioning of the fireplace is not square to the room. This suggests several possibilities:

SH B T, 11.

SH B T, 20.

Elements of Analysis

WEST ELE VATI O N C L O S E T

On the west elevation of the dining room, there is a timber-paneled door leading to a closet currently used for storage. Inside the closet, there is a stone arch that has the same height as the dining room ceiling. 24 Curved arches are used for spanning an opening and can be suppor ted on freestanding columns or incorporated into a wall. Because of its curve shape, an arch channels downward force into the wall or column.

Ver y little documentar y evidence exists about this specific arch, although we can assume it was probably made to reinforce the structure.

It is possible that this hidden arch inside the closet was used to hollow out the original wall in order to allow space for storage and movement inside this narrow space.

There are similar arches in the animal pens under neath the p ainted room in the Nor th Block. The walls in the first floor hallway, landing of stairs and principle room in Nor th Block also have arched recesses above windows and door. Several rooms in the second floor of the Nor th Block have inter nal arched recesses around windows. These arches are probably used to maintain the structure and suppor t the loads from the upper floors.

Finally, there are arches hidden behind the panelling in the most nor therly room in the south block but it is unclear if these arches are structural or not.

According the 2008 conservation statement, a study of the arched recesses and vestiges of earlier structures in the suite of the three paneled rooms on the first floor of the southwest house suggest that these rooms had been refashioned from the original spaces. 25 If this is in fact the case, the arches in the outer walls would mean that changes in the room could be made without compromising the building overall structural suppor ts.

Figure 51:

24 25

B r i c k a r c h o f We s t e l e v a t i o n c l o se t

C ari ello, 20.

Wri ght , 24- 25

Page 31

Elements of Analysis THE DINI NG R O O M C L O S ET - W I T H- T HE- S TA I R Located on the nor th elevation of the dining room, a staircase currently blocked by plywood boards has been transfor med into a small cupboard currently used for storage. The timber door of the staircase is flush to the panelling of the dining room, and continuously blends with the decorative scheme, including the cor nices.

This vestigial staircase’s position is just to the east of the south block’s principal, tur npike stair. The staircase connects what is now called the Orwell Room (used as University Hall bedchambers during the time of Patrick Geddes)”, on the ground floor, to the store room on the first floor From the first floor, this staircase leads from the dining room to the hallway of the second floor.

Spaces adjoining the staircase 1. Dining room– This first floor room functioned as a dining room since the early days, possibly as the site of the 1598 royal banquet (1598) as well as a student dining room during the University Hall era. It is currently used by the SHBT as a the main public event venue at Riddle’s Cour t.

2. Storage room—Recorded in the 2012 Gazetteer as a private office and as a storage room, this space is only accessible by the stairs from Orwell Room on the ground floor. 26 Currently the space functions as a store room/storage area.

3. Landing to the storage room—This first-floor landing serves as a lobby area to the storeroom.

4. Small storage room—This room on the second floor was previously the flight of stairs leading from the first floor to the second floor. Currently, the flight has been blocked with stone walls and floor, tur ning it into a small storage room.

There is little documentar y evidence to tell us when the stairs were constructed, nor when alterations to the flight were made to create small storage spaces. However, from the location of the flight and its openings onto each floor, we can create several hypotheses: First, that the staircase was built in the earliest phase of construction at Riddle’s Cour t back tenement, and functioned as a service fli ght, providing servants access to the first floor dining room, perhaps ev en during the 1598 banquet for James VI. Second, because we know the south block was used as student accommodation during the Geddes era, it’s likely that the staircase provided direct access to the dining room for students residing on the second floor.

Finally, the staircase may have functioned as a service stair for building maintenance in the Geddes years.

26

C ari ello, 24

Ground Flo or Pla n First Floor Plan F igure 5 2: Flo or Plan ( Room G az et eer, Car iel l o )

Second Floor Plan

Figure 56: Interior view-of the hidden stair from the first floor

Figure 54: I n t e r i o r v i e w o f s t a i r fr o m second floor Figure 55: S m a l l r o o m o n s e c o nd fl o o r

F igure 53 :

Pre s ent c ondit ion of t he c upboar d

Page 33

Elements of Analysis

PANELLING & M O U L D I NGS

The timber panelling of the Dining Room is typical of an eighteenth centur y Georgian interior. The detailing is consistent over each elevation which may suggest that the layout of the room has remained relatively unchanged since the panelling was introduced – with exception to the exter nal alterations to the south facade.

Each wall consists mainly of large panels of similar widths with a small panel below and moulded dado running between. All panels have bolection mouldings.

Detailed moulded architraves surround three doors and three bay windows. The four th ‘hidden’ door to a cupboard on the nor th elevation has been tied in with the panel ling.

There is a boxed, moulded skir ting runni ng the perimeter of the room which is offset from the architraves and fire surround.

There are two bands of moulded cor nicing above with the upper band being offset on the south elevation to accommodate a down stand in the ceiling - possibly a remnant of the south façade alterations.

The panelling and mouldings have all been painted green. Chips in the paintwork reveal at least two fur ther layers below the green.

The paintwork is thicker in areas with many mouldings having cleaner lines and definition in areas which suggests some of the panelling to be older than other par ts. These clean lines are par ticularly evident in the mouldings of the south elevation.

There are a few features or variations in the panelling that are of note: - Long narrow panel with simple concave edge directly above the fireplace - Large panel with detailed bolection moulding and a fur ther offset moulding above the firepl ace - Entablature above door to adjoining room on east elevation with distinct heavily moulded panel above.

It is clear that the back tenement at Riddles Cour t had undergone extensive renovation between 1702 and 1749 with larger rooms being created. During this time the back tenement had been owned by Duchess Anne of Buccleuch (1651-1732) who rented the tenement to Sir James Mackenzie of Roystoun.

The renovations under taken by Duchess Anne included the installation of two marble fireplaces in 1717. These records also impor tantly suggest that some of the rooms were stripped back to the stone work to aid the erection of timber lining.

In 1727 there is reference to wood panelling, picture panels and frames. There is also detailed references to painting being done in the proper ty with measurements which could be compared with current rooms dimensions for dating the layouts as described. Detail of paint types and colours (Green & Cream) could also provide fur ther evidence.

COMPARISON TO CONTEMPORARY BUILDINGS This par t of the building was built in the 18th centur y and shows some similar detailing to the Dining Room. The stone fire surround has a roll moulding and a similar arrangement of panels is found above. The long narrow panel directly above the fireplace holds a mirror and there is a large painting in the panel above.

The detailing to the wall panelling is more in line with that of Huntly House than the Dining Room, with flush mouldings and no evidence of moulded dados or skir ting. This again could relate to the scale and propor tions of the room. The fur nishings in Gladstone’s Land helps convey how such panelled rooms may have appeared and been used in the eighteenth centur y.

F igure 57 :

Pro file of M oulding

Page 35

HUNTLY HOUSE These variations could be explained through the comparitive scale or original use of the rooms. Or, it could be related to the wealth or preference of the owners at the time. It is also possible that the panelling in this room is earlier than that of the Riddle’s Cour t Dining Room and of the south section. The doors with entablatures and moulded architraves could have been later addition to the room – although this seems unlikely.

Timber panelled doors which have been revealed hidden behind the wall panelling could possibly date back to the Hamm er men renovations in the 1670’s.

F igure 5 8:

Hun tly Hous e ( RCAHM S)

Huntly House on the Canongate has large areas of oak panelling throughout and paticularly in the central section which runs south down the west side of Bakehouse Close.

Panelling here can be dated back to 1671 when the Hammer men owned the building and renovated several houses that make up the central section for rental.

It would seem unlikely that all of the oak panelling as seen today is from this period as much of the detailing is typical of eighteenth centur y panelling.

In a panelled room located on the first floor to the rear of the wester n most section of the buiding, there is evidence of detailing similar to that of the Dining Room. The entablatures above the doors are almost identical to heavier modelled panels above which may have held paintings, the moulded architraves are also similar. The detailing of the general wall panelling in this room does however var y from that of the rest of the building and of the Dining Room, with flush mouldings rather than more elaborate bolection mouldings and no moulded dados or skir ting.

Figure 59:

I n t e r i o r d e t a i l i n g H u n t l y H o u s e (R C AH M S)

Figure 60:

Figure 61:

M o u l d i n g d e ta i l

T h e o r y o f M o u l d i n g s ( Wa l k e r )

Page 37

F igure 6 2:

Mou lding Det ail

Page 38

F ig ure 63 : F ig ure 64 :

I nt er ior Elev at ion Wes t , 1: 50 I nt er ior Elev at ion Eas t , 1: 50

Page 39

Page 40

Fig u re 65 :

Inte ri or El e va ti o n, So u th

1: 5 0

Page 41

Fig u re 66 :

Int er io r El e va tio n , N o rth , 1: 5 0

F igure 6 7:

Th ree Dim ens ional m odelling of Dini n g R o o m

Statement of Cultural Significance Riddle’s Cour t is just one building within a large and complex UNESCO World Heritage Site, just one structure contributing to the overall character of the Old Town Conservation area. However, its impor tance within that context is hard to over-estimate. Riddle’s Cour t is of course associated with impor tant people and events; for example, the famed 1598 banquet given for James VI. While these associations are impor tant, this study has focused on the physical development of the building and so will conclude with the argument that Riddle’s Cour t—and within it, the south block, first-floor dining room—has its greater significance in singularly successfully demonstrating five critical aspects of Edinburgh’s urban morphology:

1. The situation of Riddle’s Cour t reflects early usufruction systems, its location on backlands emphasizing “the feuing patter ns of the medieval tofts upon which the burgh had been planned” since the days of David I. 27 The early seventeenth-centur y jamm, or extension, in which the dining room is located demonstrates that successive owners expanded their lands toward plot boundaries as their means allowed.

2 . Riddle’s Cour t is a physical expression of the great wealth generated through commerce in Scotland, and enhanced by Edinburgh’s preference as a royal burgh. Baillie John MacMorran may well have been the region’s most successful merchant. 28 His riches enabled him to create an “opulent” sense of privacy by building a cour tyard house, a rarity along the bustling high street of the burgeoning city. 29 In the seventeenth centur y and into the late eighteenth, Riddle’s Cour t served as the town home of members of Scotland’s elite, even of its aristocracy.

Occupants such as the Earl of Dunfer mline, the Earl of Cromar tie and his wife the Countess of Wemyss, and the Duchess of Buccleuch expressed their power, wealth and taste by installing rich interior finishes, such as the marble fire surround and fine paneling of the dining room.

Figure 69:

C e i l i n g , G l a d s t o n e ’ s L a n d , B r i d ge m a n Ar t

F igure 6 8: Ja mes G or don, The Plan of Edinbu r g h E xactly d on e, 1 64 7 (F ac s im ile, 1690) , NLS 27

Wri ght , 71.

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3 . As the elite relocated to the Georgian New Town or souther n suburbs in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, Riddle’s Cour t—always proximate to, yet critically segregated from the commercial and industrial activity of the Lawn Market—became the site of many uses: residential, commercial and light industri al and warehousing. Larger houses were subdivided into smaller flats, and new stairs were built to increase access to these new dwellings. In this sense, it became more “typical” of other sites with the burgh than it had ever been before. Still, more elaborate fl ats, those above ground level and those located far ther away from the pend leading to the high street commanded higher rents, and so even if the dining room was just one room in a smaller unit, it retained many of its finer features, like the fireplace and panelling. However, it probably lost painted panels over its fireplace and east door.

4 . By the second decade of the nineteenth centur y, overcrowding still persisted in the Old Town. Moreover, Edinburgh’s growing souther n suburbs demanded better access to businesses and gover nment agencies still concentrated in the oldest par t of the city. The 1827 Act of Improvement aimed to rationalize circulation in the city and provide a higher standard of civic services. The council under took major engineering and building projects in the following decades, such as the construction of Waverly Station and the George the VI Bridge during this era. Riddle’s Cour t, and its dining room, was signally affected by the building of Victoria Street. Indeed, the dining room assumed its current configuration when the south façade of Riddle’s Cour t was removed and rebuilt to accommodate Victoria Terrace.

5 . The influence of Patrick Geddes on Edinburgh, and on the fields of conser vation, planning and civic engagement is vast, though his association with Riddle’s Cour t for ms a relatively brief era in the building’s histor y.

Still, Riddle’s Cour t served as a “tested” for many of his theories and a laborator y for constructive surger y. 30 30

Wri ght, 72.

Figure 71: Site plan showing piers of new bridge and p a r t o f Vi c t o r i a S t r e e t , 1 8 2 9 , R C A H M S

F igure 7 0: Cop y of et c hing by T St ewar t f r om W ilson’s Memo rials sh owing Nos 334- 340 Lawnm ar k e t , from Ca stle hill, RCAH M S

The dining room, perhaps more than any other single room in Riddle’s Cour t, reflects Geddes’ lasting influence. His preference for leaving functional previous alterations in place means that the room wasn’t coaxed back into per fect alignment. His respect for the historic materials means that the eighteenth-centur y fireplace and paneling are intact. And the painted ceiling brings the stor y of Riddle’s Cour t to life for community members who continue to meet and lear n beneath its vibrant colors.

F igure 7 2: R CA HMS

Gen er al v iew of elev at ion t o M ilne’ s C o u r t ,

28 John Giffo rd, Co lin M c W illiam , Dav id Walk er and C hrist op he r Wilson , The

Bu i l di n g s of S cot la n d : E d i n b u rg h (H a r m o n d s w or th, Mi ddl e s ex : P eng uin Bo o k s , 1 9 8 4 ), 1 9 8 29 Wri ght , 67.

30 Wri ght , 72

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Brya n, E liz abet h an d Al i c i a B ru s e , e d s . Vi v e ndo D i sci smus: by l i vi ng w e l earn. The Li fe and Ti mes of Riddle’s Cour t, 1 5 9 0 -2 0 0 7 . Ed i n b u rg h : Workers’ E ducati onal A ssoci ati on, 2007.

Camp bell, I an and M a rg a re t Ste w a rt. “T h e e v ol uti on of the medi eval and R enai ssance ci ty.” In E d inbur gh: T he M ak ing o f a C a p i ta l C i ty , e d i te d b y B ri an E dw ards and P aul Jenki ns, 21-41. E di nburgh: E dinbur gh Un i v e rs i ty Pre s s , 2 0 0 5 .

C ari ello, M ar io. Rid d l e ’ s C o u rt: R o o m Ga z e tteer . E di nburgh: S cotti sh H i stori cal B ui l di ngs Trust, 20 12.

Carrut her s , A nnet t e . T h e Sc o tti s h H o me . E d i nburgh: N ati onal Museums of S cotl and, 1996.

CFA A r c haeology, M i c h a e l C re s s e y, C h a rl e s McK ean and A l asdai r R oss. R i ddl e’ s C ourt, Law nmarket , E dinbur gh, Hi s to ri c B u i l d i n g S u rv e y. E d i nburgh: C ommi ssi oned by LD N A rchi tects on behal f of t he S c ot t is h His t o ri c Bu i l d i n g Tru s t, A u g u s t 2013.

C ro ne, A nne, and D i a n a S p ro a t. “R e v e a l i n g th e H i story B ehi nd the Facade: A Ti mber-Framed B ui l ding at No. 302 Lawn m a rk e t.” A rc h i te c tu ra l H e ri tage 22 (2011): 19-36.

Cro ne, A nne. Ridd l e s C o u rt, 3 2 2 L a w n m a rk e t, E di nburgh, D endrochronol ogi cal anal yses. Loanhea d, M idlot hian: A O C Arc h e o l o g y Gro u p , 2 0 1 3.

Gi ffo rd , J ohn, Colin M c W i l l i a m, D a v i d Wa l k e r and C hri stopher W i l son. The Bu i l di n gs of S c ot lan d : Ed i n b u rg h . H a rmo n d s worth, Mi ddl esex: P engui n B ooks, 1984.

Gile, Jessica. “The History of Dalkeith House and Estate.” University of Wisconsin-LaCrosse Journal of Undergraduate Research 6 (2003): 1-10. Accessed November 20, 2013. http://www.uwlax.edu/urc/JUR-online/PDF/2003/gile.pdf.

Gl e ndinning, M iles , R a n a l d Ma c In n e s , a n d A o nghus MacK echni e. A H i story of S cotti sh A rchi tectur e.

E dinbur gh: E d i n b u rg h U n i v e rs i ty Pre s s , 1996.

Go w, I an. T he S c otti s h In te ri o r: Ge o rg i a n a n d Vi ctori an D écor . E di nburgh: E di nburgh U ni versi ty P r ess, 1992.

Grant, J am es . Cas s e l l ’ s Ol d a n d N e w E d i n b urgh: Its H i story, i ts P eopl e and i ts P l aces . Vol . 1. Lo ndon: Cas s ell, P et t e r, Ga l p i n a n d C o mp a n y, n o date.

LDN Architects, The Patrick Geddes Centre for Learning and Conservation Design and Access Statement (Edinburgh: Scottish Historical Buildings Trust, 2013).

Johns on, J im and L o u R o s e n b u rg . R e n e w i n g Ol d E di nburgh: The E nduri ng Legacy of P atri ck Geddes .

G lendar uel, A rg y l l : A rg y l l Pu b l i s h i n g , 2 0 10.

LDN Architects. The Patrick Geddes Centre for Learning and Conservation Design and Access Statement. Edinburgh: Scottish Historical Buildings Trust, 2013.

Mackay, S . B ehind T h e F a ç a d e – F o u r C e n tu r i es of S cotti sh Interi ors . E di nburgh: Mercat P ress, 19 95.

Mackay, S heila. S co tti s h R e n a i s s a n c e In te ri o rs . E di nburgh: Moubray H ouse P ress, 1987.

Marwick, Sandra. History of the Museum of Edinburgh. Edinburgh: City Art Centre, no date. Accessed November 15, 2013. http:// www.edinburghmuseums.org.uk/getattachment/Venues/Museum-of-Edinburgh/About/The-history-of-the-building/MOESM. pdf.aspx.

Ol d To wn Cons er v a ti o n A re a C h a ra c te r Ap p ra i sal . E di nburgh: C i ty of E di nburgh C ounci l , 2005.

“Th e P at r ic k G edde s C e n tre : R i d d l e ’ s C o u rt, E di nburgh”. E di nburgh: S cotti sh H i stori c B ui l di ngs Trust , no dat e.

Ri d dl e ’s Cour t His t o ri c a l R e s e a rc h : Ed i te d Extract of S H B T D raft R eport . E di nburgh: S cotti sh H i sto r ical B uildings Tr us t, 2 0 1 3 .

R i d dl e ’s Cour t , Law n ma rk e t, Ed i n b u rg h , Op ti ons A pprai sal . E di nburgh: The C ockburn C onservati on Tr ust , 2009.

Wal ker, C. Howar d . T h e T h e o ry o f Mo u l d i n g s . C l evel and, Ohi o: J H Jansen, 1926.

Wri g ht , A ndr ew. Rid d l e ’ s C o u rt, E d i n b u rg h : C o nservati on S tatement . E di nburgh: C ockburn C onser vat ion Tr us t , 2008.

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APPENDIX

Case Studies STUDY 1: GLADSTONE’S LAND STUDY 2: HOPETOUN HOUSE STUDY 4: DALKEITH HOUSE Gladstone’s Land off the Lawnmarket directly across from Riddles Cour t has a timber panelled room located on the first floor in the east jamb.

Figure 74:

F igure 7 3:

Flo or plan of G lads t one’s Land ( RC A H M S )

This 6-storey merchant house and shop built in 1550 it is an example of early high-rise located on the Royal Mile.

The cramped condition of the Old Town, encouraged the development of multi-stor y buildings.

Facade Sketch of Gladstone’s Land

It is a typical example of Seventeenth centur y building of the overcrowded area of the Royal Mile. This is the period where the rich and the poor lived close together due to the overcrowded factors.

The proper ty was purchased by a wealthy merchant and burgess, Thomas Gledstanes and his wife on 20 December, 1617. The proper ty was constructed with extra room on the front of each storey of the house and these extra rooms then let out to different social class of tenants, ranging from merchant to minister, knight to guild officer.

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However, with the construction of the New Town, most of the wealthy residents of the area moved to the New Town. The Old Town became home to the poor community was left to decay.

By 1930, Gladstone’s Land was no longer fit for habitation due to overcrowded slum population, therefore a plan for demolition was scheduled in 1934.

Currently Gladstone’s Land functions as a museum, operated by the National Trust of Scotland.

CONCLUSIONS Vividly characteristic of seventeenth centur y style in town houses with the famous incorporation of Renaissance painted ceilings.

The building was purchased by the National Trust for Scotland in response to the demolition scheme. Gladstone’s Land underwent a huge restoration effor t in restoring the buil ding to it’s original state.

Renaissance decorated ceiling were found during the restoration work, hidden beneath later coverings.

The condition of the windows have been restored to it’s or iginal patter n where the window are comprised of glazed upper por tion with wooded lower por tion.

Figure 76: (NTS)

F igure 7 5: Ren ais s anc e paint ed c eiling of Gladst on e’s La nd (RCAHM S)

T h e D r a w i n g R o o m a t G l a d s t o n e’ s L a n d

HOPETOUN HOUSE, WEST LOTHIAN Hopetoun House, begun 1699-1701, designed by architect William Bruce for the Earl of Hopetoun, is located near South Queensferr y just outside Edinburgh. The magnificent early eighteenth centur y interiors of this mansion are of the highest standard.

The detailing of the Dining Room and other panelled rooms at Riddle’s cour t are ver y similar in comparison to the interiors at Hopetoun. The east elevation of Figure 73 shows an almost exact arrangement to that found in the Dining Room and in the same drawing an above mantel panel can be similarly matched with one found in the nor th block.

The grandeur of this residence exter nally is in stark contrast to that of Riddles Cour t but this is merely a constraint of having a residence in a densely populated city.

F igure 7 7:

Comp ar at iv e int er ior det ailing at H o p e t o u n H o u s e a n d e x t e r i o r e l e v a t i o n ( R C A H M S ) Page 51

DALKEITH HOUSE, WEST LOTHIAN Dalkeith House in its present for m was designed by architect James Smith for Duchess Anne of Buccleuch (1651-1732). Modelled on William of Orange’s palace of Het Loo in the Netherlands at the request of the Duchess, the majority of the construction was completed 1704-1711.

The elaborate décor and fur nishings of Dalkeith House included extensive use of marble which was said to be m uch favoured by the duchess and oak panelled rooms. Between 1709 and 1711, Richard Neale, a marble cutter from London spent sixty-four weeks with nine assistants carving the intricate interior which included a grand staircase and reliefs. During this time several marble chimney pieces were also installed.

REFERENCES THE HISTORY OF DALKEITH HOUSE & ESTATE – Jessica Gile - UW-L Jour nal of Undergraduate Research VI 2003 PHOTOS / IMAGES RCAHMS – Canm ore brittinbritain.wordpress.com

F igure 7 8:

Inte rior det ailing of Dalk eit h Hous e

F igure 7 9:

Primar y f ac ade of Dalk eit h Hous e ( R C A H M S )

Analogue Analysis

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