The Closes of Haddington

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THE CLOSES OF HADDINGTON A WALKING TOUR:

Through the backstreets of History

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Think before you bin this guide!

After reading, pass it on to someone else who might find it useful, or recycle it.

For electronic copies visit www.visitscotland.com/info/ towns-villages/east-lothian

This booklet provides brief histories of the historic closes of Haddington. Each close is connected with a theme that expresses an aspect of cultural or historical life– they are colour coded and correspond with the map that comes as the jacket cover of this booklet.

Remember, this only provides a brief snapshot of the burgh- please take your time to explore, experience and enjoy the town of Haddington- we’re sure you’ll keep returning for more!

“HADDINGTON IS ONE OF THE SEMI-SECRET JEWELS OF SCOTL AND.” SIR ALISTAIR GRANT

WELCOME TO HADDINGTON The Royal Burgh of Haddington, county town of East Lothian, with its medieval ‘herringbone’ street plan and Georgian architecture is centrally positioned in a county famous for agriculture. Nestling beneath the Garleton Hills on the banks of the River Tyne, Haddington is only 17 miles from Edinburgh.

Haddington has been a settlement from early times, having been established as a royal burgh in the 12th century during the reign of King David I. It reached the peak of its prosperity in the 18th and early 19th centuries as a major market town.

As you would expect of a burgh that is over 800 years old, it has many places of historic and architectural interest. Through this guide however, Haddington’s closes are used to serve as a fresh approach to the telling of Haddington’s history, uncovering stories of some of the town’s lesser known figures.

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OPERA CLOSE

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SHIELL’S CLOSE

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DICKSON’S CLOSE

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MITCHELL’S CLOSE

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BURLEIGH’S WA’S

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G OW L CLOSE

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T Y N E CLO SE

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CAIRNS CLOSE

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DOBSON’S CLOSE

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ROSS’S CLOSE

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ROUGHEAD CLOSE

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While all the closes have historical significance, many have drastically changed or even disappeared over time.

A great deal of change has occurred throughout the 19th century, as older dilapidated properties were replaced, creating the townscape much as we see it today.

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A short history of Haddington Haddington has been a settlement from early times. There are many different explanations as to where the name Haddington came from. In the 5th century, Haden was a Saxon Chief. In Anglo-Saxon, Hadin-tin means ‘town of ordination or holy order’ and in Gaelic - heuedinge-town means ‘princes -town’. Today, almost 9000 people call Haddington home and it is recognised by many as one the most attractive, unspoilt market towns in Scotland.

Haddington was established as a royal burgh in the 12th century during the reign of King David I, giving the town important trading privileges.

Haddington became an important agricultural market town however when the main railway line by-passed the town, the trade of the burgh was reduced and a period of decline set in.

After WWII, the town began to expand and the older part of the town was recognised as a conservation area.

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Etching of Haddington in 1693, By John Slezer

Before we get too up close and personal, let’s first establish a few definitions:

CLOSE: An entrance to a tenement, also sometimes providing access to the rear of the building. There is often a gate at the front entrance which is closed at night.

WYND: A thoroughfare, open from end to end, often going up or down hill between high buildings, and linking streets at different levels.

COURT: A courtyard surrounded on all sides by buildings.

LAN D: A tenement block of flats.

V ENNE L : A lane or passageway between the gables of two buildings P END : The original Scots word for a covered passageway through a building

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OPERA CLOSE

OPERA CLOSE

The origins of the name Opera Close are rooted in Haddington’s colourful history of musical performance...

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Cast of the first performance of The Mikado. The Margaret Pringle Collection, The John Gray Centre

THE HADDINGTON AMATEUR OPERATIC SOCIETY Mr Ewen was not only an opera The Haddington Amateur buff, but also a pioneering Operatic Society was Scottish Aviator. In 1911 he formed in 1910 after became the first person to cross the Firth of Forth in a formerly being known as monoplane.

Mr W. H. Ewen’s Opera Company. the stage for several For their first official encores. presentation, the Operatic Society selected Gilbert More recently, the and Sullivan’s The Mikado which was performed at the Lammermuir Music Haddington Corn Exchange. Festival, held in This production was such a September each year, success that cast members continues to tempt were summoned back onto listeners to Haddington.

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SHIELL’S CLOSE

SHIELL’S CLOSE

Although East Lothian is mainly a rural county, it has also been home to many important and successful industries, which have played a significant role in the social and economic development of the area.

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A label from Haddington’s Binnie Brewery that was located where Tyne Court is today.

Throughout the 17th century, brewing was an everyday domestic activity: most well-todo households brewed their own ale for family and servants. By the opening of the next century the production of ale had become a commercial practice, with specialist brewers being a vital part of the town’s economy.

WHO WAS WILLIAM SHIELLS? William Shiells was a Haddingtonian who established a tradition of brewing on this site, which continued to exist for many years.

Blackwood’s Edinburgh Magazine, Volume 16. Annual Registrar, 1824.

Although the original old house and close is long gone, we know it had an outshot projecting into Market Street, which, from its shape, was known as the “saut backet”. Here, William Shiells brewed “twopenny,” “groatum,” and strong ale.

After Shiells, a brewery on the same site was carried on for a number of years. Although many of these historic brewers are now long gone, the great brewing tradition lives on in East Lothian.

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DICKSON’S CLOSE

DICKSON’S CLOSE

While the architecture of this humble tenement appears simple, the fabric incorporates material from almost every period of the history of the Burgh from its receiving of Royal Charter status from King David I in 1144.

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Drawings from the 1997 restoration by Simpson & Brown Architects with Addyman Archaeology www.simpsonandbrown.co.uk/architecture

During restoration work in the late 1990s drain and foundation trenches from the 12th and 13th centuries were uncovered- producing some of the earliest material discovered anywhere within the burgh.

The walls are a mixture of medieval and post-medieval work. Part of the frontage was found to be a late example of the sort of plastered timber frame construction which was common in the 19th century but which is now extremely rare.

The building was gutted in the 1950s when it became part of the Kilspindie knitwear factory.

Dickson’s Close, shown on Wood’s Town map of 1819 was

re-established in the 1990s restoration, providing an important thoroughfare through to the busy supermarket which has replaced the medieval riggs (plots) behind.

The building is finished as it would have been in the 19th century, with bright ocher lime-wash harling. The late 18th century Georgian sash windows were also restored and painted on the basis of evidence from the windows themselves, a bright nursery green. Breaking, for the first time the rule that was established in the 1960s that all windows in Haddington should be white.

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MITCHELL’S

CLOSE

MITCHELL’S CLOSE

Mitchell’s Close has been occupied by merchants and craftsmen from medieval times. Their houses followed narrow strips of land (riggs) running perpendicular to the street so that the houses had their gable-ends facing the street.

15 15 Known as Sweeney’s Close up until the 1920s, Michell’s Close still remained a good example of a seventeenth century pantiled building and today, Mitchell’s Close continues to follow the original street pattern.

The cobbled area, outside stair, dormer windows and crowstepped gables were typical of that period.

In 1930, some of the housing was condemned, and the future of Mitchell’s close did not look bright.

Luckily, this relic of another age was saved and restored in 1967 by East Lothian County Council.

RCAHMS http://canmore.rcahms.gov.uk

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BURLEIGH’S WA’S

Haddington Old and New George Angus

17 17 Burleigh’s Wa’s (walls) originally ran through Kilpair Street to the old Tolbooth (the old jail, now long gone). This was the route taken by prisoners of the old wars, thieves, rogues and even those accused of witchcraft in the 16th century.

From the banks of the Tyne they came up Gowl Close and crossed the Hardgate, up Burley’s Wa’s and thence to jail. By the 1720s the building had already fallen into disrepair.

There are two schools of thought relating to the derivation of its name:

A ‘Burley’ or ‘Burleigh’ was a Yorkshire well-digger who was contracted to sink a well in Haddington in 1660.

B Burley was a local drunk who was teased by youths who took delight in Burlin’ him round until he steadied himself against ‘Burley’s Wall’.

The current sign reads as Burleigh’s. But which story do you believe?

BURLEIGH’S WA’S Burleigh’s Wa’s, a narrow lane which runs from Kilpair Street to Hardgate, has been a well-known mystery for Haddingtonians of all ages.

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GOWL CLOSE

GOWL C LOSE

The Gowl (windy) Close, leading down from Hardgate to the River Tyne, is a place of great antiquity. It is also known for having set the scene for an infamous great escape!

19 19 THE BEASTLY BOTHWELLS. In the middle of the 16th century (and indeed for some time before), the Bothwell family were suspiciously prominent in the affairs of Haddington.

In 1559, Bothwell, who was hereditary Sheriff of Haddington apprehended John Cockburn of Ormiston who was conveying £3000 from Berwick.

This money was intended for the Lords of the Congregation in their campaign against Mary Queen of Scots.

In retaliation, Lord James Stewart arrived in Haddington with 200 horsemen, 100 footmen and 2 pieces of artillery with the intention of capturing Bothwell.

But having being alerted to their arrival, Bothwell, allegedly dressed as a woman, escaped via “a lane called the Gowl” to the River Tyne.

A prestigious and influential family, James Hepburn, the fourth Earl of Bothwell, was the most exalted personage at court. In 1567 he became the third husband of Mary Queen of Scots. In true form, a month later he was forced to flee the country.

It’s name means ‘Windy’ Close, although a ‘gow’ is also the Scots word for a narrow pass, usually between two hills.

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T YNE CLOSE T YNE CLOSE

Tyne Close would no doubt have been a place of considerable importance in former days and the site of many interesting characters and activities.

21 21 Tyne Close is a very ancient place of the burgh, leading to the river at Skinners’ Knowe (on the Western side of the River).

The Skinners washed animal skins here as part of the preparation of leather.

They were one of the nine trades of Haddington. The others were Baxters (Bakers), Hammermen, Masons, Wrights, Fleshers, Cordiners (Shoemakers), Tailors and Weavers. They’re commemorated in a line of nine lime trees on the approach to St Mary’s Church.

A path by the riverside skirts the Episcopal Church, the site of a Franciscan Friary demolished at the Reformation, and leads on past one of the oldest bowling greens in Scotland to the Nungate bridge. The bridge dates from the 15th century and was the site of fierce action in the siege of Haddington. An English army occupying the town faced Scots and French forces for over eighteen months in 1548-49. A hook over the first arch was used by the hangman.

THE CHARACTERS OF TYNE CLOSE It was the custom long ago for itinerant preachers to travel the county, and make a livelihood by preaching eccentric sermons in lofts, barns, and the open air.

A somewhat popular one, called Weston, used frequently to visit Haddington, and held his meetings, which were numerously attended, in a loft in Tyne Close.

Nungate Bridge

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THE RIVER WALK AND ST MARY’S CHURCH

T YNE CLOSE

Catch a moment of serenity as the River Tyne winds its way to the North Sea.

23 23 Although the route is muddy in places, it is largely flat so it is great for all the family! Take a moment, or stop here with your picnic in St Mary’s pleasance after taking in the sights of the beautiful St Mary’s Church.

Features visible from the St Mary’s Collegiate Church outside: is well worth a visit.

-The fine carving above the Dating ack to 1 with west door the proportions of a small - The impacts of musket balls athedral it was partially from the siege around the destroyed during the 1 north door. The choir was 9 siege of addington, to the skies from the only eing fully repaired in open siege right until the 1970s. the 19 0s.

Lady Kitty’s Garden, entered just opposite the west door, is a fine place for picnics. If time allows, follow the river path round behind the church and admire the Poldrate Mill dating from the 15th century.

Inside, on the Lauderdale Aisle, a magnificent tomb features some of the best Elizabethan alabaster carving, lying beneath a finely ornamented canopy. In stark contrast, a plain slab in the choir is inscribed with Thomas Carlyle’s tribute to his wife , Jane Welsh Carlyle; “Suddenly snatched away from him and the light of his life has gone out.”

24 In Cairns Close, there once was a curious old vaulted cellar which in former days was used, it is said, for concealing contraband gin and brandy!

Miss Mysie Hamilton, a well-known, much respected Haddington person, lived in the first flat west of Cairns’s Close for many years.

“She spoke with a loud man’s voice, that used to make us children take to our heels in terror when we heard it. I remember the Boys said Mysie was “a hermaphrodite” but what that was I hadn’t a notion, nor have yet!”

Jane Welsh Carlyle to Thomas Carlyle Sunny Bank / Sunday 26 July 1857.

Below Miss Hamilton’s house was the shop of William Aitken, clockmaker. He kept the same shop for over fifty years. Mr Aitken was town treasurer in 1845, and died in 1876, aged eighty-nine.

This is one of his George III mahogany long-case clocks.

Copyright © Bonhams 2001-2014

CAIRNS CLOSE

As with many of the Closes in Haddington, Carins Close has witnessed a great deal of change.

CAIRNS CLOSE

25 This watercolor & ink painting is by Dorothea Nimmo Smith, initialed and dated 1949.

The painting captures a typical Haddington close from the perspective of the drying green. Over the course of time subsidiary cottages, stores and workshops were built along the length of the rigg, starting from the rear of the street-side tenement and running down towards the garden.

Dorothea Nimmo Smith was born in Haddington in 1889.

An amateur artist, she painted scenes in and around Haddington.

East Lothian Council Museum Service cares for a large collection of her work. This collection is a rich visual source for those who are interested in recent local history.

See more at:

www.johngraycentre.com

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D OBSON’S CLOSE Not just used as walkways, these closes have served many purposes, and traditionally, would have smelt a little different too.

DOBSON’S CLOSE

27 27 In 1863 a statement was made in the Haddington Courier to the effect that large number of closes were being neglected and that work was urgently necessary for public health....

1863 THE HADDINGTON COURIER THE DRAINAGE EXPENSES “It would be well to make known that in future, the magistrate intended ‘to clean out all the back streets and closes. If they did so there could be no doubt that “the value of the manure would be greatly enhanced”. For instance, there were Carin’s Close and Dobson’s Close, which were never cleaned out and where an immense uantity of manure was allowed to accumulate at the expense of public health.”

Notice the bow and arrow decoration on the gates- this refers to The Butts at the foot of the close. This was where archery was historically practiced by townsfolk.

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ROSS’S CLOSE

ROSS’S CLOSE

On the south side of the High Street lies Ross’s Close, named after Tommy Ross (1860-1937). Well known locally as a cheery plumber, he was elected town councilor in 1903 and became Provost* in 1918.

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*Historically the Provost was the chief magistrate or convener of a Scottish burgh council, the equivalent of a mayor in other parts of the English-speaking world.

Signature glazed handle and chain for a toilet cistern by T.M. Ross.

The National Museum of Scotland Permanent Collection

The back gardens of houses at the foot of Ross’s Close, part of Langriggs. These houses were built to house overspill from Glasgow in the 1960s.

The John Gray Centre Photo Collection (www.johngraycentre.org)

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ROUGHEAD CLOSE

ROUGHEAD CLOSE

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Mr Roughead’s spacious tenement had been long in his family. Well known as a famous seed establishment it was built by James Burns, a Haddington architect in 1806.

The Gardener’s magazine and register of rural & domestic improvement, Volume 16 Edited by John Claudius Loudon John Wood 1819 Plan of Haddington and Nungate.

NLS

Up the close is Carlyle House, once the residence of Dr John Welsh, father of Jane Welsh Carlyle, the late wife of Thomas Carlyle. Dr Welsh was a skillful and eminent surgeon and physician in his day.

He was also buried within the walls of the Collegiate Church of St Mary’s in Haddington along with his daughter.

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33 33 Recent works have been underway on number 1 Lodge Street. The removal of the render revealed that all the openings in the building were once arched and it has been speculated that they may once have been part of an arcade .

The removal of the crumbly stonework and render also exposed a molded corbel, similar to that leading into the close.

These discoveries were carefully documented and recorded revealing at least two primary phases to the building’s history- and a great deal more of historical character to this building than was first thought.

Previously, the building has been termed as a ‘late 18th century’ building (by architectural styling and evidence from maps) but given these recent discoveries of earlier openings, 1 Lodge Street could infact have a much longer and secretive history.

PHOTO: Toby Williams

PHOTO: Toby Williams

34 John Knox (c.1514-1572).

The Scottish clergyman and a leader of the Protestant Reformation born in Haddington (although this is disputed, some say Morham, just outside the town) and was educated at Haddington Grammar School. A statue of him can be found on the Gothic Building, now known as John Knox Court. A tree, planted in the 19th century marks his birthplace in Giffordgate.

Jane Welsh Carlyle (1801-1866) The wife of essayist Thomas Carlyle, Jane Welsh Carlyle (18011866) and has been cited as the reason for his fame and fortune.

She was most notable as a letter-writer.

Samuel Smiles (1812-1904) Born in Haddington, Samuel Smiles was a doctor, biographer, social reformer and railway enthusiast. Author of ‘Self Help’ and other books, he is commemorated by a plaque on the wall of 62 High Street, the house where he lived.

Sir William George Gillies (1898–1973) was a renowned Scottish landscape and still life painter. Born in Haddington, he studied at Edinburgh College of Art and taught there after graduation for over 40 years. He was principal of the College from 1959 until his retirement in 1966.

Sir Alistair Grant (1937- 2001) was educated in Haddington. He went on to become a prominent figure in Scottish business, public service and philanthropy.

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SIR WILLIAM GEORGE GILLIES, C.B.E., R.S.A. 1898-1973 NUNGATE BRIDGE, HADDINGTON oil on board

FAMOUS PEOPLE ASSO CIATED WITH HADDINGTON

In Memory of CLOSES that are no more...

The names of these closes appear in historical records of Haddington. Some we know quite a lot about, others very little.

TEMPLE CLOSE FISHMARKET CLOSE AFFLECK’S CLOSE CUNNINGHAM’S CLOSE Although still in existence, Opera Close has gone through many successive name changes. It has previously been known as: FAUNT’S CLOSE after Fred Faunt who had a fruit shop up the close CROWE’S CLOSE after Francis Crowe who had his plumbing business in the close WILSON’S CLOSE after Mr Thomas Wilson, a local grain merchant BEDLAM CLOSE (currently Sidegate Lane) “At the bottom of the vulgarly called, Bedlam Close, is an old smithy, which was long occupied by John Cochrane. His nickname was “Hinges,” owing to his universal toast at convivial meetings of the Hammermen’s Corporation, of which he was a member, “May the hinges of friendship never rust.”

Reminiscences of the Royal Burgh of Haddington

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HOSPITAL CLOSE “The Hospital Close runs down from Hardgate to the Tyne, where stepping-stones were laid across the river to Gimmers Mills before the bridge was built. It was called the Hospital Close from there being at one time an hospital in it.”

Reminiscences of the Royal Burgh of Haddington

SKINNER’S CLOSE Extract from THE HADDINGTON COURIER, 27TH OF AUGUST, 1915.

More of Old Haddington Disappearing: Another portion of the Haddington of an older day is under demolition in Hardgate, where the quaint harled frontage of Skinner’s Close is being pulled down.

The buildings clustered on the pretty extensive site have seen their day out, and must yield to the inevitable... As is usual, the old buildings in their later days, descended to meaner uses than those for which they were built, and they must now make way for newer things. There is, however, a satisfaction in knowing that their passing has been rendered necessary by sheer old age. The haddingtonian who appreciates the old world features of the burgh- so rapidly disappearing- will, however, view their disappearance with a regret which the promise of better things will not greatly palliate.

The old buildings that were demolished were once a well known pub, known as the White Swan. The White Swan was the oldest public house in the burgh, above the entrance once were the lines: As swans do like the water clear, Step in here and drink good beer.

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HOW TO FIND HADDINGTON

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS HADDINGTON CONSERVATION AREA REGENERATION SCHEME (CARS) This project was part of the Haddington CARS (Conservation Area Regeneration Scheme), a grant programme supported by East Lothian Council and Historic Scotland. It provided funds for the regeneration and improvement of Haddington Town Centre through the repair and enhancement of its historic fabric. This project has further encouraged community engagement and provides information about Haddington’s unique heritage for locals as well as for visitors to Haddington.

EAST LOTHIAN COUNCIL www.eastlothian.gov.uk www.visiteastlothian.org THE JOHN GRAY CENTRE www.johngraycentre.org

HADDINGTON’S HISTORY SOCIETY HADDINGTON & DISTRICT COMMUNITY COUNCIL LOST HADDINGTON www.facebook.com/pages/Lost-Haddington Research, design and images (unless otherwise stated) by Lilian Tuohy Main

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DOBSON’S CLOSE

T YNE C LO SE

DICKSON’S CLOSE

OPERA CLOSE

GOWL CLO SE

ROSS’S CLOSE

ROUGHEAD CLOSE

MITCHELL’S CLOSE