Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Spa Magazine #97

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launched in Paris in 1952 Issue Ninety Seven 2023 of the South African Edition Spa skin vitality body balance Lifestyle Relaxation & Health Therapies this issue Anti-Ageing

Editors Welcome

Exploring Anti-Ageing Trends and Innovations. The quest for defying the ageing process continues to drive scientific advancements and consumer demands. In this issue we delve into the latest trends and innovations in the field of anti-ageing, highlighting key breakthroughs that have the potential to reshape the way we approach ageing, from the rise of personalized anti-ageing treatments, one of the most significant trends in the anti-ageing.

Additionally advancements in regenerative medicine, stem cell therapy, and the role of exosomes, small vesicles secreted by cells, in promoting tissue regeneration non-invasive procedures and technology, these procedures stimulate collagen production, tighten skin, and improve texture, resulting in a more youthful appearance. Moreover, minimally invasive injectables, continue to be refined, offering naturallooking results with reduced downtime. As scientific research continues to push boundaries, it is crucial to balance innovation with safety and ethical

striving to enhance the quality of life as we age.

Les Nouvelles Esthétiques South African Edition I Max Cafe P. O. Box 81204, Parkhurst Johannesburg, South Africa 2120 I Tel: +27 83 267 2773 e-mail: info@lesnouvelles.co.za www.lesnouvelles.co.za I Publisher/Creative Director: Anthony de Freitas e-mail: tony@maxcaf e.co.za I Managing Editor: Dr. Nadine de Freitas e-mail: nadine@maxcafe.co.za I Editorial Assistant: Sarene Kloren editorial @lesnouvelles.co.za I Ad vertising Enquiries: Dr Nadine de Freitas e-mail: info@lesnouvelles.co.za I Subscription Enquiries: Tel: +27 83 267 2773 e-mail: info@lesnouvelles .co.za or visit: www.lesnouvelles.co.za Les Nouvelles Esthetiques International Publisher I 7, avenue Stephane Mallarme 75017 PARIS Tel: 01 43 80 06 47 Fax: 01 43 80 83 63 www.nouvelles-esthetiques.com I Fondateur: H. Pierantoni I Directeur de la Publications: Jeannine Cannac-Pierantoni I Redactrice en chef: Michéle de La ttre-Pierantoni I International Editions • Argentina • Baltic • Benelux • Brazil • Bulgaria • Canada • China • France • Greece • Hong Kong • Hungary • Israel • Italy • Japan • Mexico • Poland • Portugal • Romania • Singapore • South Africa • Spain • Taiwan • Turkey • Ukraine • USA • Yugoslavia Doc: LNE Paris skin vitality body balance A Professional take on SPA Business, Health Therapies, Products & Simple Relaxation 2023*ISSUE*97 cover CONTENTS *97
considerations, ultimately
Dates to Diarise: Les Nouvelles Esthetiques Spa Conference 2023, 30 & 31st July 2023. Bookings online: www.lesnouvelles.co.za Enjoy the read ! Most Prominent Skincare and Aesthetics Trends for 2023 2 Exploring the Emerging Trends in Skincare Peptides 4 Timeless Beauty with Thalgo's Diverse Anti-Ageing Ranges 6 Esse Launches World-first Probiotic Treatment To Optimise Results Of Aesthetic Procedures 8 Advanced Aesthetics 10 SKNLOGIC Retinol 0.5 12 The Rise of Multitasking Skincare Products 14 Emerging Trends in Cosmetic Surgery for 2023 16 Skin Barrier Strength 18 Here's How To Get Longevity When It Comes To Your Aesthetic Procedures 20 Stem Cell Innovations 22 Controlling Aging Skin 24 Non-Invasive Hair Loss Therapies: An Emerging Aesthetic Trend 26 Skin Cycling 28 DNA Testing To Customise Your Skincare Products 30 Sothys Hydra Hyaluronic Acid4 32 Introducing Monteil 34 Mesotherapy: Exploring New Trends and Proven Effectiveness 36 Skin Icing 38 DrK has a revolutionary approach towards slowing down the Aging Process 40 10 Anti-Aging Foods to Support Your 40s-and-Beyond Body 42 Holistic Approaches to Aesthetic Skincare 44 Is Customisable Skincare The Future Of The Beauty Industry? 46

Most Prominent Skincare and Aesthetics Trends for 2023

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Rewind a few years, and skincare trends were basically made-up names for the same end result. There was glass skin, dolphin skin, glazed skin-all of which essentially mean the same thing: A healthy, well-balanced, even-toned complexion. But in 2023, consumers are smarter, better educated on the basics, and demanding more from skincare products, treatments, and so-called “trends” across the aesthetics space. As such, brands and professionals have followed suit. Products have to be multitasking at a minimum and in-office treatments are taking a 360, holistic approach that factor in mental state, metabolism, and diet.

Buccal Fat Removal

The most talked about trend but proceed with an abundance of caution when it comes to buccal fat removal-the results are permanent, and, according to a few experts, don't age too well. “Buccal fat removal is a surgical procedure that removes the naturally-occuring fat between the cheekbones and jaw bones of the face, with the goal of accentuating one's cheekbones and facial structure, and minimizing an appearance of roundness or fullness,” says Dr. Dendy Engelman.

The caveat? Reducing fat in this area is permanent, but as we age, we naturally lose fat in our face and our faces become smaller. Removing your buccal fat pad is irreversible and although it makes your jawline look slimmer now, it does not age well.

Skin Cycling

If you're on BeautyTok, you've heard of skin cycling, a term coined by dermatologist Dr. Whitney Bowe. It's not a new product or in-office treatment, but rather a recipe that tells you when to apply your products. “It's a skincare approach that involves applying products intermittently in a four-day cycle, leaving out some products on 'rest days,'” says Dr. Engelman. “Skin cycling encourages people to apply products strategically instead of piling them on top of each other, and is designed to yield significant results while preventing irritated skin by giving the skin time to recover from more active ingredients and exfoliants.” It's ideal for those who run on the sensitive side or those who can't seem to get in a rhythm with their regiment.

Psychodermatology

Stress impacts skin health. Now, brands are finally getting on board with that logic. “I have noticed an increased interest in the skin to mind relationship, otherwise called psychodermatology,” notes Dr. Engelman. “This looks at how our mental health can directly affect our skin. Psychodermatology is emerging in the way we understand the relationship between mind and skin, and also being incorporated into skincare brands product lines.” A number of companies are using active ingredients like caffeine to fight the effects of stress on the skin.

Multi-Tasking Products

There was a period of time where single ingredient products were taking over. “We saw products with niacinamide, peptides, or ceramides in the name, as it was the key ingredient, or sometimes only ingredient, in the formula. It was beneficial for

ingredient education; understanding the purpose of ingredients and what they do for your skin,” says Dr. Idriss. “However, overtime our skincare routines became a million steps long as we were trying to include every ingredient possible to target our main skin concerns.” Now, those these products are taking a backseat in favor of multi-tasking, multi-ingredient blends that address a multitude of skin issues in a streamlined fashion.

Three-Dimensional Filler

Once upon a time, a doctor would take a syringe of Juvederm and use it to plump up any area that needed a little extra love. But the industry has come a long way and doctors are now taking a 360, personalized approach on the filler front, which is in large part thanks to innovation in the space. “These fillers are often unique and used for specific areas of the face, for example tear troughs and jawline. It's about customization, rather than using a multipurpose syringe for all areas of the face.” Every filler has specific properties, such as viscosity and durability, that make them appropriate, or not appropriate, for certain areas of the skin.

Quick Contouring

Face and body contouring procedures aren't new per se, but there are new technologies in the space that prioritize speed and downtime. “Surgical treatments are as popular as ever and combined with new plasma technology, we are able to achieve even better results with liposuction and body contouring,” says Dr. Shafer. For example, there's a new plasma innovation called Renuvion that you're going to be hearing more and more about. “It's a new energy based treatment that can be applied externally or more commonly internally during a liposuction procedure to enhance skin tightness. This is good for patients who are not quite ready for a full on facelift, but want to push the envelope in terms of skin tightening technology.”

Combination Therapy Treatments

“Combining technologies and aesthetic modalities in a single treatment is something I've always believed in,” says Ormonde. “I currently combine radiofrequency with microcurrent and LED light therapy to address skin tightening, muscle tone, and collagen stimulation in a single treatment.” The multitool approach lends itself to more dramatic results. “Clients leave looking more lifted and sculpted and the results improve over the course of a few weeks.”

Holistic Approaches

Skincare is no longer just about the physical skincare. Doctors and companies are looking at the whole picture and taking an inside-out approach. For Dr. Shafer and his team, that means looking at a patient's metabolic function with a fine tooth comb. “The importance of metabolism cannot be overstated. The metabolic approach to anti aging and rejuvenation is the hottest topic of the year. Patients need a consultation, blood work, and body analysis and then a customized treatment focused on antiaging, weight loss, or overall wellbeing,” he explains. While this will look different for everyone, maximizing metabolic function can have an impact on hair growth, skin plumpness, and overall health.

In a similar vein, you can also expect to see a spike in supplements. “An effective skincare routine that addresses your specific needs is essential, but the addition of skin-specific oral supplements can amplify the results,” says Ormonde, who has a background in integrated nutrition. “I am always recommending a wellness approach to skincare by supplying skin with beneficial vitamins and nutrients from within.”

Mesotherapy

According to Dr. Houshmand, we'll see a rise in Mesotherapy, which is already being widely used. So, what is Mesotherapy, exactly? “It's a technique used to rejuvenate the skin by means of a transdermal injection of a multivitamin solution and natural plant extracts that are thought to improve the signs of skin aging,” she explains. Mesotherapy is extremely customizable.“There are many different actives injected depending on what issue is being treated, so it can be used for fat reduction, pigment, wrinkles, or pore size. It's very specific to the goal.”

Hair Health

There is a massive hike in products and brands focusing and restoring hair growth. People don't want to start and stop their hair restoration at home, they're going the extra mile. “More and more of my patients are coming in for early interventions for hair thinning, hair loss, and overall hair growth,” says Dr. Houshmand. “Both men and women want to prevent their own hair loss and optimize growth.”

In addition to topicals like Minoxidil and Rogaine, people can get PRP (platelet rich plasma) injections or AnteAGE hair restoration, which is comparable to a super-charged version of PRP that leverages growth factors. There are also trials underway for Exosomes. “These are different from PRP and different from stem cells,” says Dr. Houshmand. “Exosomes are nanoparticles that have protein, DNA, and RNA from the originating cells and have a powerful role in regenerative medicine by facilitating healing and repair processes. When applied or injected to patients experiencing early signs of alopecia and hair loss, exosomes can stimulate the hair follicles, prevent further hair loss and stimulate hair regrowth as long as the hair follicle is present.”

Softer Looking Lips

“The very large lip look without definition is gone. Patients have been dissolving their filler to start with a clean slate and want more definition, not necessarily volume,” says Dr. Houshmand. “Lip flips are quite popular as are lighter fillers with properties that give the lip a very hydrated look. 2023 in general is the year of enhancing natural features and lips are part of this aesthetic.”

Barrier Strength

This isn't necessarily a trend-it's more like a grand awakening that's here to stay. “The age of overexfoliation is finally over and the pendulum has swung. People are becoming aware of the importance of maintaining your skin barrier,” points out Dr. Idriss. A healthy skin barrier is the goal for every skin type, but especially dehydrated and dry skin.” This doesn't mean discontinuation of your exfoliators. Just a more intent focus on hydration.

Exploring the Emerging Trends in Skincare Peptides

The skincare industry is constantly evolving, and in recent years, peptides have gained significant attention for their remarkable potential in addressing various skin concerns. Peptides are short chains of amino acids that play a crucial role in stimulating collagen production, improving skin elasticity, and combating the signs of aging. In 2023, we are witnessing exciting developments in the field of skincare peptides, particularly in the areas of collagen boosting, elastin synthesis, and anti-aging effects. This article explores the latest trends in skincare peptides and highlights the science behind their efficacy in promoting youthful, radiant skin.

I. Collagen Boosting Peptides

Collagen, a structural protein in the skin, provides strength and elasticity. However, as we age, collagen production declines, leading to the formation of wrinkles and sagging skin. Collagen boosting peptides are designed to stimulate the body's natural collagen synthesis processes. These peptides work by signaling the skin cells to produce more collagen, thereby promoting a plumper and firmer appearance. Notably, recent advancements have focused on developing peptides that can penetrate the skin barrier more effectively, maximizing their collagenboosting potential.

II. Elastin Synthesis Peptides

Elastin is another essential protein that helps maintain skin elasticity. With age and external factors like sun exposure, elastin fibers degrade, resulting in the loss

of skin firmness and resilience. Elastin synthesis peptides have gained prominence for their ability to enhance the production of elastin in the skin. By stimulating elastin synthesis, these peptides contribute to improved skin elasticity, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Ongoing research in this area aims to identify peptides that can effectively mimic the structure and function of native elastin, offering promising possibilities for advanced antiaging formulations.

III. Anti-Aging Effects of Peptides

Anti-aging peptides encompass a wide range of peptides with diverse mechanisms of action. These peptides target multiple signs of aging, including wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and loss of firmness. Certain peptides have antioxidant properties, protecting the skin against oxidative stress and free radicals. Others inhibit the activity of enzymes responsible for collagen degradation, preserving the existing collagen levels. Additionally, some peptides act as muscle-relaxing agents, reducing the appearance of expression lines.

IV. Formulation Advancements and Delivery Systems

To optimize the effectiveness of skincare peptides, formulation advancements and innovative delivery systems are being explored. Encapsulation techniques are being employed to protect peptides from degradation and enhance their stability. Nanotechnology-based delivery systems, such as

liposomes and nanoparticles, enable targeted delivery of peptides to specific skin layers, enhancing their bioavailability. Transdermal patches and microneedling devices have also gained attention for their ability to enhance peptide absorption and efficacy.

Skincare peptides have emerged as powerful ingredients in the pursuit of youthful, radiant skin. The trends in 2023 indicate a significant focus on collagen boosting, elastin synthesis, and anti-aging effects. The scientific advancements in peptide formulations and delivery systems further enhance their efficacy. However, ongoing research and consumer education are essential to harness the full potential of peptides while maintaining ethical practices. With continued innovation and awareness, skincare peptides are poised to revolutionize the anti-aging skincare market, offering novel solutions

*Consumer Education and Ethical Considerations

As the demand for peptide-based skincare products continues to rise, consumer education plays a crucial role. Transparent communication about the benefits and limitations of peptides is necessary to manage expectations effectively. Moreover, ethical considerations regarding the sourcing and testing of peptides should be addressed to ensure sustainability and animal welfare in the skincare industry.

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Timeless Beauty with Thalgo's Diverse Anti-Ageing Ranges

In an era where the pursuit of youthful vitality is a common desire, Thalgo emerges as a pioneer in the realm of skincare, offering a range of exceptional anti-ageing solutions. With a holistic approach to beauty and a commitment to harnessing the power of nature, Thalgo has developed a diverse collection of anti-ageing ranges that cater to various needs and preferences. What sets Thalgo apart is the philosophy of not treating a person by their agebut the age of the skin and its specific needs. By focusing on the individual and their unique requirements, Thalgo propels itself ahead in the relentless battle against ageing.

Spiruline Boost Range: Embrace Prevention and Defy Pollution

The Spiruline Boost range stands as a testament to Thalgo's dedication to preventive skincare. Recognizing the detrimental effects of pollution on our skin, this range harnesses the exceptional properties of spirulina-a natural superfood-to shield and revitalize our complexion. Packed with antioxidants and essential nutrients, the Spiruline Boost range effectively combats free radicals, fortifies the skin's barrier, and leaves it radiant and rejuvenated. With these innovative products, Thalgo empowers individuals to embrace prevention as the key to maintaining youthful, healthy skin.

Hyalu-Procollagene Range:

The first “marine filler” that fills in even established wrinkles

This carefully formulated collection harnesses the exceptional benefits of hyaluronic acid and collagen to provide intense moisture and plumpness. By replenishing the skin's moisture reservoirs and stimulating collagen synthesis, these products help diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, promoting a smoother and more youthful complexion. With 3 hyaluronic acids and marine pro-collagen, Thalgo's Hyalu-Procollagene range unlocks the potential of hydration, allowing individuals to preserve their skin's suppleness and vitality.

Silicium Lift Range: Elevate Your Skin's Firmness and Resilience with “Face Fitness”

For those seeking a comprehensive lifting and firming solution, Thalgo presents the Silicium Lift range. As the skin's natural silicium levels decline with age, this range steps in to replenish this essential mineral and restore the skin's elasticity and firmness. By stimulating the production of collagen and elastin, and with the Face Fitness Rollers, the Silicium Lift range effectively reduces sagging, improves facial contours, and lifts the skin to new heights.

Prodige Range:

The Epitome of Premium Anti-Ageing

Thalgo's Prodige range stands as a pinnacle of luxury and advanced anti-ageing skincare. Combining rare and precious marine ingredients with cutting-edge technology, this range offers an indulgent experience that transcends ordinary skincare routines. The Prodige range aims to combat all signs of ageing comprehensively, from wrinkles and fine lines to loss of firmness and radiance. By harnessing the potency of marine extracts and precious oils, Thalgo's Prodige range promises remarkable results, unlocking the true potential of mature skin and bestowing it with a radiant, youthful glow.

Thalgo's commitment to anti-ageing skincare goes far beyond the ordinary. With their Spiruline Boost, Hyalu-Procollagene, Silicium Lift, and Prodige ranges, Thalgo offers a comprehensive selection of solutions tailored to different anti-ageing needs. By embracing prevention, hydration, firmness, and premium care, individuals can embark on a transformative journey towards timeless beauty.

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Esse Launches World-first Probiotic Treatment

To Optimise Results Of Aesthetic Procedures

The recent trend has seen more people turning to non-invasive aesthetic procedures such as microneedling, laser resurfacing and deep peels, as they produce quick results. These interventions, while effective, create controlled wounds and have, therefore, promoted the need for pre- and posttreatment care.

Esse, a biotech skincare brand, has drawn on more than a decade of research into the skin microbiome to create dedicated skincare products for clients to use before and after these aesthetic proceduresthe innovative Esse Pre-Care Oil, Post-Care Oil, and Esse Activator. Drawing on a decade of research, Esse founder, Trevor Steyn, created a proprietary blend of three live probiotic strains targeted at wound healing. This blend is known to accelerate healing, reduce downtime, and improve the results of aesthetic procedures.

“While sustainability and microbiome support remain at the heart of our philosophy, we felt compelled to provide those undergoing these procedures with the support that our unique position allows,” explained Steyn. “We have a unique advantage in dealing with compromised skin before and after treatment. We can use live Lactobacillus bacteria to help the microbiome to protect the skin while it heals. This improves client outcomes and reduces the risk for the practitioner. Live bacteria are used in a similar role in new treatment protocols for third-degree burn victims.”

He explained that Esse's use of live probiotics, which are known for their healing benefits, is a world first in the medical aesthetics space: “We've honed delivery of our probiotics, with live bacteria being kept dormant in soluble microcapsules until application. Our history of advancements in probiotic technology has provided the specialised tools needed for this, and our Pre- and Post-Care Oils, along with the Activator, are a result of over a

decade of dedicated investigation into the many ways that our microbiomes can improve the health of our skin. Using organic biotechnology to rewild the skin's microbiome, we're keeping skin healthier and younger.”

The active ingredients in the Esse Aesthetics Range include therapeutic-grade live probiotics that actively accelerates wound healing, improves barrier function, reduces the risk of infection, and improve collagen deposition. Esse has also used a new ingredient in the Post-care Oil - Sapienic Acid. This is the most abundant fatty acid in sebum, and it is unique to humans - no other animals produce it (hence the name - from sapiens).

It is only present in human skin, not in internal organs. Sapienic acid is toxic to skin pathogens, but the commensal microbes in humans have evolved immunity, so this is a powerful ingredient to support the reinstatement of a healthy skin microbiome. This ingredient calms the skin after treatment, reducing any inflammation and redness. And the results are already evident. Swedish aesthetic practitioners who have already incorporated the Esse Aesthetics Range into their pre- and post-care treatment are reporting significant improvements.

Aesthetic Practitioner of Studio Sofie commented: “Our client was ecstatic about the products. She noticed a significant difference in the healing process in her skin when she used them. She loved them, fragrance and feel, and her skin was more stable, quicker post-microneedling.”

This was reiterated by Aesthetic Practitioner of Skin Etc. who said: “As a therapist, I can see a major difference in a shorter time, compared to clients who have not used Esse's pre- and post-care products. The skin shows a much better texture, evenness and moisturisation level in a shorter time compared to clients not using the Esse Aesthetics Range.”

How the Esse Aesthetics Range work

Over the years Esse has honed its delivery of probiotic bacteria. This new offering is the pinnacle of its microbial encapsulation technology, in which live bacteria are kept dormant in soluble capsules until application. In the preparation phase, the Precare Oil delivers low levels of probiotics to habituate the skin to Esse's proprietary Lactobacillus strains. Two weeks prior to the treatment, the Esse Activator is applied, releasing the probiotics onto the skin by dissolving the microcapsules, providing a tailored nutrient mix to feed these beneficial microbes. Esse Pre-care Oil and Esse Activator improve the barrier function of the skin and boost the skin's microbiome, preparing the client's skin for the treatment. This pretreatment also builds skin compatibility for the posttreatment probiotic actives.

After the treatment, the skin is in a vulnerable state as the skin microbiome is disrupted and the barrier function is impaired. The Esse Post-care Oil and Esse Activator uses live probiotics to protect the skin from potential pathogens and reinstate the barrier function as quickly as possible. This approach locks in improvements in the appearance of skin.

After the procedure, the level of probiotics is increased to provide protection by competitive exclusion, fulfilling one of the primary roles of the microbiome. The Activator ensures that the pH is buffered to the correct level and that these microbes are effectively released onto the skin, along with selective nutrients. Finally, the Sapienic Acid in the Esse Post-care Oil calms the skin.

To find out more about the Esse Pre-Care Oil, the Esse Post-Care Oil, and Esse Activator or other Esse products: visit www.esseskincare.com.

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Advanced Aesthetics

Advanced Aesthetics has become an intricate part of our offerings in our spa and beauty industry, and advanced anti-ageing treatments specifically is now one the biggest beauty trends world-wide and a billion-dollar industry. But when we hear the words Medi-spa, advanced aesthetics, or advanced aesthetic equipment, it often conjures up a stark white, cold and impersonal atmosphere, or service, which is exactly the opposite of what we are trying to achieve in our spas.

So how do you incorporate this popular trend into your spa without losing the essence of what your spa stands for or without losing the essence of what your spa client is accustomed to?

Plan Plan & Plan

Before turning a part of your spa into an advanced aesthetic area, it will be advisable to plan your treatment offerings first. First determine what type of treatments you will be offering. Choose your product lines and your advanced aesthetic equipment wisely and design your treatment menu according to what you have chosen. Make sure your treatment offerings suit your clientele and is on par with offerings around your area. If this feels like a daunting task, employ an experienced consultant that can help you with choosing the best for your spa, as this could be an expensive exercise if not careful. This will be one of your biggest investments for your spa,

but could be one of your most profitable if managed properly.

My suggestion would be that you have a separate advanced aesthetic treatment menu from your normal spa menu. Once you have determined your treatment menu, you can now start to design the area according to what will suit your offering.

Waiting Area

The perfect solution for a medical advanced aesthetic area would be to have a separate entrance for your medical aesthetic customers. Privacy is key, and it would be preferable for customers not to wait and pay in the same area as your regular spa goers.

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Most customers who frequent Medi-spas prefer that they are not seen after invasive treatments as the skin might be red, blotchy and make-up free. If this is not possible to do, have a separate reception desk and waiting area for the advanced aesthetic client in your spa waiting area.

Consultation Area

A diagnostic consultation will be needed on every client before her treatment program can be tailormade to suit her needs. This area should be a private area, where a full assessment can be done by a medical practitioner or qualified therapist. Carpeted flooring is a great option in this area as it helps to dampen any noise and private conversations. Comfort is key in this area, as you would want your client to feel comfortable from the get-go.

There are various diagnostic tools on the market that could be of help to assess the skin effectively. Look out for photographic technology for in-depth analyses like the Visio Complexion Analysis from Genop, Sylton Observ 520X from Do pro health care systems and hydration meters like BT-analyze from Bio Therapeutics to help you make an accurate assessment of your client's skin and to assess wrinkle depth, sunspots, hydration levels, pigmentation and other skin damage. Various advanced aesthetic brands like Biologique Recherche will also have brand specific diagnostic tools to use before administering their treatments. Diagnostic tools will be worth investing in, as it shows professionalism and enhances your effectiveness in treating your client.

You will also need a comprehensive consultation card to keep records of the client's medical, health and treatment history. Detailed records in this area are vital and expected by law and should be kept on file.

If your treatment room is large enough, you could combine your consultation area with your treatment area.

Treatment Room

Comfort is still key in your treatment room. Comfort for your client as well as for your medical practitioner or therapist administering the treatments. You can still use your soothing colouring of your spa in this area, put simplicity and cleanliness is very important. Keep your décor accents to the minimum and do not use plants, flowers or decorating objects that collect dust. Keep your artwork simple to suit your décor. Avoid using medical charts and visuals that might be offensive to others.

Make sure you have enough space for a large comfortable electrical treatment bed that can set in height and adjust while you client is on the bed, hydraulic therapist stool with backrest as well as for any large aesthetic equipment like laser equipment, slimming equipment, radio Frequency, Hydra Facial Units. UV sterilizer and hot towel cabinets. Your therapist must be able to walk around the treatment bed comfortable, to be able to treat all areas effectively.

Your treatment bed should be one of the biggest investments that you make in this area. It should be a very stable treatment bed, preferable wider and longer than normal, with the cushioning at least 812cm thick for extra comfort. I would suggest a 4 electrical motor treatment bed that easily sets the height, the backrest, the footrest and is ergonomically designed to enhance the customer's comfort. If your budget allows it, you could also choose extra specifications like internal heating and foot controls. This investment will be key to your customers comfort and key to how your therapist will function in this treatment room. A great example of these are the Lemi range or Esthetica range available from The Spa Warehouse. These treatment beds are a combination of beautiful aesthetics, 5 star quality and excellent craftsmanship. They have various designs, colours and specifications to choose from to suit any décor or size room. For an excellent treatment bed you can expect to pay from about R60 000 to R140 000 depending on what you choose. Their durability, comfort and functionality, is worth the investment.

Flooring and work surfaces in your treatment area should be easy to keep clean as hygiene is a very important part of advanced aesthetic treatments. Great surfaces are copper, stainless steel or manufactured stone. Make sure you have a basin with hot and cold water taps available and if you perform body treatments that require a shower, it would be advisable to have the shower area and toilet facilities part of the treatment room if possible.

Retail Area

This area is an intricate part of your offering and could be part of your waiting area or adjacent to your reception area. There should be no chairs in this area, as no one shops sitting down. Design this area with a mixture of open shelves, closed shelves and display area to create an interesting shopping experience.

Proper lighting of your retail area can increase sales by at least 20 percent, so it's worth bringing in a lighting consultant, especially for this particular area of your medical spa area. Retail products should be lit from the front with directional lighting and not from the back. Make sure your lighting does not heat up the area too much as heat can have a negative effect on the chemistry of the product.

Lighting and Electricity

Lighting is a critical component of any design. Treatment rooms need to be appropriately lit with task lighting (bright enough to perform any medical procedure with) and ambient lighting with dimmers for relaxation times. A LED magnifying lamp, will also be needed for better vision when treating specific areas.

Once you have chosen your aesthetic equipment that you will be using, make sure your electrical plugs and adapters are suitable for the plugs used on the equipment as most equipment are imported and might use international plugs. Check with your supplier what plug points are needed. Make sure your plugs are situated as close to the equipment

as possible, to prevent any cords from lying on the floor. The more plug points you have the better.

Place some plug points flush with the floor where your bed will be standing as your electrical bed will need at least 2 to 3 plug points for operating. Check with your supplier what you will need for your bed.

As you will be using allot more electrical equipment in your spa now, check with your electrician if your electrical supply grid you are currently using will be sufficient or whether you would need to increase to a 3 phase option or when in South Africa, you might need to invest in a solar and lithium battery system. Also check with your supplier of your equipment what your electrical needs will be for using that specific equipment.

Staff

The staff chosen to work in this area must be fully trained and cross trained so that even your receptionist making the bookings are as conversant and knowledgeable about your treatment menu as the medical staff and therapists themselves. However, that does not mean that he or she should start giving medical advice over the phone to your clientele. Make sure your staff is regularly sent to conferences and trainings to stay informed about any new developments in this industry. Your staff must be fully qualified, knowledgeable and adhere to strict hygiene and safety standards. They must be qualified in basic first aid and prepared in case of emergencies.

Consultant

If you are not sure where to start or how to implement advanced aesthetics into your existing spa or start a new medi-spa, my suggestion would be to get a knowledgeable spa or aesthetic consultant, who can assist you with the design, layout and budget. It might be an initial out lay but their years of experience will save you from investing in the wrong items. Once again, do your home work and make sure you choose the right person for your project as they will be an intricate part of your team until your spa opening.

For more information: The Spa Warehouse

The Spa Warehouse is one of the leading spa & wellness design, consulting and supply companies based in South Africa. They have been offering a personalized and bespoke spa consulting service to the spa and wellness industry in Africa & Mauritius since 2005.

Jacoline Wentzel

Tel: 066 234 2779

www.thespawarehouse.co.za

SKNLOGIC Retinol 0.5

A concentrated skin booster with 0.5% Retinol + Soyaglycone

What is Retinol?

Retinol is derived from vitamin A, this multitasking skin care ingredient is a form of retinoid.

Proliferation means growth. Retinol increase cellular turnover in the skin, meaning they grow faster, which is going to make the skin a little bit thicker. The thicker skin is stronger and smoother and has fewer overall imperfections. They also make the dead cells shed, which is a lot like exfoliating, but this is really a secondary effect. This cellular turnover makes the stratum corneum (the outermost layer of skin) more compact, which gives a nice anti-aging benefit.

Retinol itself is not necessarily functional within the skin, because it has to be converted to retinoic acid. This is actually a two-step process that occurs in the cell. It first gets converted to retinaldehyde and then it's converted to retinoic acid. Even though it requires two conversions, it's still very effective, which is why it's found in so many skin care formulations.

The Benefits of Retinol

Age Defense: Retinol is one of the most well studied anti-ageing ingredients currently on the market. Retinol binds to the retinoid receptors on the skin,

enhancing cell turnover and stimulating the production of elastin and collagen.

Hydrating: Retinol thickens the deeper skin layers and enhances the skin's ability to retain water. This improves fine lines and wrinkles and reflects youthful, glowing skin.

Acne: Another benefit to increased cell turnover is fewer breakouts. As cells are regenerated, pores are unclogged and acne can clear. It also helps normalize the functions of oil glands and their follicles which also results in clearer skin.

Tone and Texture: Retinol thins out the topmost cornified epithelial layer of the skin improving the tone and texture of the skin.

Hyperpigmentation: Retinol helps to lighten hyperpigmentation in targeted areas or all over the skin.

Why Choose Sknlogic Retinol Booster?

Our encapsulated Retinol 0.5 Booster contains a high percentage of Retinol at 0.5% (1% is the highest that is allowed to be sold over the counter in most countries including South Africa). It is a light weight formulation that is formulated with maximum

effectiveness and stability in mind. At 0.5% you get the great benefits of Retinol but it is more tolerant to the skin than higher concentrations would be.

Professional Retinol 1 Booster with 1% Retinol

The Sknlogic Professional Rejuvenating & Lifting Essential treatment is performed using 1% Retinol Booster. This exposes your skin to a higher percentage of Retinol in a controlled environment. The 1% Retinol booster can also be utilized during a Micro needling treatment.

With added Soyaglycone

We also include Soyaglycone in our Retinol boosters. This is an encapsulated genistein, the biologically active form of the most abundant soy isoflavone. Genistein is a powerful collagen booster: it strongly stimulates the production of collagen but also prevents its degradation by matrix metalloproteinases.

•Delivers a visible lift.

•Reduces fine lines and wrinkles.

•Re-densifies and firms the skin.

For more information

visit: www.sknlogic.com

info@sknlogic.com

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 12
innovation

The Rise of Multitasking Skincare Products

In today's fast-paced world, time is of the essence, and people are seeking efficient solutions to simplify their daily routines. This desire for convenience has paved the way for multitasking skincare products, which offer multiple benefits in a single formulation.

Combining the power of different ingredients and targeting various skin concerns simultaneously, these innovative products have gained significant popularity in the beauty industry. This article explores the rise of multitasking skincare products, their advantages, and the top trends shaping this transformative segment.

The Appeal of Multitasking Skincare:

Multitasking skincare products have become a gamechanger for beauty enthusiasts and skincare aficionados. With busy schedules and an overwhelming array of skincare options, consumers are drawn to the convenience and simplicity these products offer. By combining multiple benefits into one formula, multitasking products streamline skincare routines, saving time, effort, and money.

Moreover, these products are designed to address various skin concerns simultaneously, catering to the diverse needs of consumers. From hydrating and brightening to anti-aging and sun protection, multitasking products offer a comprehensive approach to skincare. This all-in-one solution is particularly appealing to individuals with a minimalistic approach to beauty or those seeking a travel-friendly option.

The Advantages of Multitasking Skincare Products:

Time-saving and Efficient: Multitasking skincare products eliminate the need for using multiple products, reducing the time and effort required for a complete skincare routine. This is especially beneficial for those with a busy lifestyle or limited time in their daily schedules.

Versatility and Customization : These products are often formulated to address multiple skin concerns, making them suitable for a wide range of individuals. They offer versatility and customization, allowing users to target specific issues while simplifying their skincare regimen.

Cost-effective: Investing in multitasking skincare products can be more economical than purchasing individual products for each specific concern. By consolidating several skincare steps into one product, consumers can save money without compromising on quality or effectiveness.

Travel-friendly: Multitasking products are ideal for travel, as they eliminate the need to carry multiple skincare items. Their compact size and multifunctional nature make them convenient companions for onthe-go skincare routines.

Top Trends in Multitasking Skincare

Hybrid Formulations: Brands are innovating by combining different product categories into one, such as moisturizer + serum or sunscreen + foundation. These hybrid formulations offer a

comprehensive approach to skincare, providing multiple benefits in a single step.

Active Ingredient Combinations : Multitasking products often feature a blend of potent active ingredients that target various skin concerns simultaneously. For example, a moisturizer might include ingredients like hyaluronic acid for hydration, vitamin C for brightening, and peptides for antiaging benefits.

Clean and Sustainable Formulations : As consumers increasingly prioritize sustainability and clean beauty, multitasking products are following suit. Brands are developing eco-friendly options using natural, non-toxic ingredients, and sustainable packaging materials.

Inclusivity and Diversity : Multitasking skincare products are becoming more inclusive, catering to a wider range of skin types, tones, and concerns. This includes offerings specifically formulated for sensitive skin, oily skin, or skin of different ethnic backgrounds.

Multitasking skincare products have transformed the beauty industry by providing efficient, versatile, and convenient solutions for individuals seeking streamlined skincare routines. With their time-saving benefits, customization options, and cost-effectiveness, these products have captured the attention of consumers worldwide. Additionally, the industry's focus on hybrid formulations, active ingredient combinations, sustainability, and inclusivity demonstrates the continuous innovation and adaptation to consumers requests.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 14
spa therapies

innovation

Emerging Trends in Cosmetic Surgery for 2023

Cosmetic surgery has always been at the forefront of innovation, continuously evolving to meet the everchanging demands of individuals seeking aesthetic enhancements. As we step into 2023, a new wave of trends is shaping the field of cosmetic surgery. From cutting-edge technologies to innovative procedures, this article explores the emerging trends in cosmetic surgery that are expected to make waves in the year ahead.

1.Non-Surgical Facial Rejuvenation

Non-surgical procedures continue to gain popularity, offering individuals a less invasive approach to facial rejuvenation. In 2023, we can expect to see an increased demand for non-surgical treatments such as injectables, dermal fillers, and laser skin resurfacing. These procedures provide a refreshed and youthful appearance without the need for surgery or significant downtime.

2. Body Contouring with Emphasis on Natural Results

Body contouring procedures are evolving to focus on achieving more natural-looking results. Patients now seek procedures that enhance their existing features rather than aiming for drastic transformations. Techniques such as liposuction, tummy tucks, and breast augmentations are being tailored to create more subtle and proportionate outcomes, allowing patients to feel more confident and comfortable in their own skin.

3. Rise of Regenerative Medicine

Regenerative medicine, a field focused on harnessing the body's natural healing capabilities, is making significant strides in cosmetic surgery. Stem cell therapies, platelet-rich plasma (PRP) treatments, and fat grafting are being utilized to enhance the regenerative potential of cosmetic procedures. These advancements aim to improve outcomes, reduce scarring, and accelerate recovery times.

4. Minimally Invasive Facelifts

Traditional facelifts are being reimagined with the emergence of minimally invasive techniques. Procedures such as thread lifts, also known as thread rejuvenation or thread lifting, use dissolvable threads to lift and tighten sagging skin. These procedures are less invasive, require minimal downtime, and provide subtle but noticeable improvements in facial appearance.

5. Body Sculpting with High-Definition Liposuction

High-definition liposuction is gaining popularity among those seeking a sculpted and athletic physique. This technique combines traditional liposuction with advanced technologies to remove excess fat and define underlying muscles. Highdefinition liposuction allows surgeons to sculpt the body with precision, resulting in a more toned and chiseled appearance.

6. Gender-Affirming Surgeries

The field of gender-affirming surgeries is expanding rapidly, as more individuals seek procedures to align their physical appearance with their gender identity. Surgeries such as breast augmentation, facial feminization surgery, and genital reconstruction surgeries are being performed with increasing expertise and sensitivity to cater to the unique needs of gender non-conforming individuals.

7. Customized Implants

Advancements in 3D printing and imaging technologies are revolutionizing the creation of customized implants. Whether it's breast implants, chin implants, or other facial and body implants, the ability to design and fabricate implants tailored to an individual's specific anatomy allows for improved outcomes and patient satisfaction.

The field of cosmetic surgery is constantly evolving, and 2023 promises to bring forth an array of exciting trends. Non-surgical facial rejuvenation, body contouring with an emphasis on natural results, regenerative medicine, minimally invasive facelifts, high-definition liposuction, gender-affirming surgeries, and customized implants are all set to shape the landscape of cosmetic surgery in the year ahead. As these advancements continue to progress, patient safety, ethical practices, and open communication between patients and surgeons will remain paramount to ensuring successful outcomes and overall patient satisfaction.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 16

spa therapies

Skin Barrier Strength

A healthy and radiant complexion is a goal many individuals strive to achieve. One crucial aspect of maintaining skin health is understanding and enhancing the skin's barrier strength. The skin barrier acts as a protective shield against external aggressors, such as environmental pollutants, bacteria, and moisture loss.

In this article, we will explore the significance of skincare barrier strength and discuss effective ways to strengthen and maintain this vital defense system.

Understanding the Skin Barrier.

The skin barrier, also known as the stratum corneum, is the outermost layer of the skin. Composed of dead skin cells, lipids, and natural moisturizing factors, it serves as a protective shield against external stressors. A healthy skin barrier retains moisture, prevents the penetration of harmful substances, and maintains the skin's overall well-being.

Signs of a Weakened Skin Barrier: A compromised skin barrier may exhibit various signs and symptoms, including dryness, sensitivity, redness, flakiness, and increased skin reactivity. People with weakened skin barriers are prone to skin conditions like eczema,

dermatitis, and acne. Factors such as excessive cleansing, harsh skincare products, environmental pollutants, and age can contribute to a weakened barrier.

Enhancing Barrier Strength

• Gentle Cleansing: Avoid using harsh cleansers that strip away natural oils. Opt for mild, pH-balanced cleansers that cleanse without compromising the skin barrier.

• Moisturize Regularly: Use a moisturizer containing ingredients such as ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and other key ingredients. These components help to reinforce the skin barrier and maintain optimal hydration levels.

• Sun Protection: UV radiation can weaken the skin barrier. Apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher to shield against harmful rays.

• Avoid Over-Exfoliation: While exfoliation can promote cell turnover, excessive exfoliation can damage the skin barrier. Limit exfoliation to 1-2 times per week and choose gentle exfoliants.

• Hydrating Ingredients: Incorporate skincare products with humectants. These ingredients attract moisture to the skin, bolstering the barrier.

• Antioxidant-Rich Skincare: Antioxidants like vitamins C and E protect against free radicals and promote a healthy skin barrier.

• Balanced Diet: A diet rich in antioxidants, essential fatty acids, and vitamins helps support the skin's barrier function. Include fruits, vegetables, fish, and nuts in your diet.

Maintaining a strong and healthy skin barrier is vital for overall skin health. By understanding the importance of the skin barrier and implementing appropriate skincare practices, individuals can protect their skin from external aggressors and maintain a radiant complexion. Gentle cleansing, regular moisturization, sun protection, and the use of hydrating and antioxidant-rich products are key to enhancing the skin's barrier strength. Additionally, a balanced diet and overall healthy lifestyle contribute to skin vitality. Prioritizing the health of the skin barrier will undoubtedly lead to a more resilient and glowing complexion.

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Here's How To Get Longevity When It Comes To Your Aesthetic Procedures

Aesthetic injectables continue to rise in popularity and nowadays they are as common as getting a wax or having your hair done. When done right, they will have you looking and feeling your best for months, although they can be an expensive investment in your image. Treatments range from R 4 500 and upwards for injectables which are dependent on the number of injectable treatments required per visit to the specialist, so it is important to know the tips and tricks to keep your results looking as fresh as on the day they were done.

Having the correct skincare regime can reduce your post-aesthetic procedure side effects drastically and prolong your results. Dr Alek Nikolic, aesthetic medicine specialist and owner of Aesthetic Facial Enhancement provides some insight on how to enhance your results and improve the glow and appearance of your skin.

What To Do In Between Your Treatments

“I advise my patients to incorporate hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid into their skin regime,” says Dr Nikolic. Retinol is another hero ingredient that should be on your radar, and it has the ability to boost collagen production over time. These two ingredients will help you achieve plump, glowing, smooth skin between your injectable treatments.

Sun protection should also not be forgotten. “I always tell my patients that SPF is a non-negotiable as sun damage is the number one cause of aging skin,” states Dr Nikolic.

What To Do Before Your Next Injection

Your aesthetic practitioner will most likely provide you with a list of things to avoid before coming in for your procedure. They will likely include the following:

• Stop taking anti-inflammatory medication, fish oil and vitamin C supplements two weeks before your appointment as they will increase your chances of developing bruises post-procedure.

• Stay clear from wine and cocktails. Alcohol is a no-go a few days before your procedure. “This is because just like certain medications, alcohol is also a blood thinner which increases your risk of bruising, bleeding and swelling.

• If you want your treatment to be “under the radar” cut back on your salt intake the day before your treatment. By saying no to salt you are susceptible to less bruising and swelling.

What To Do After Your Injection

Post-procedure you will likely experience some redness and swelling, the best remedy for this will be to apply ice to the affected area following soft tissue fillers every hour. “Also remember not to touch your face or apply makeup for several hours as bacteria from your hands or makeup can enter the tiny holes created by the needle pricks,” adds Nikolic.

This is also the time to be extra gentle and kind to your skin and you don't want to use products that can aggravate it. “I would advise my patients to stay away from retinol and exfoliating ingredients

for at least two days post-procedure,” advises Dr Nikolic.

You also need to avoid activities that will open the blood vessels like intense exercise, long hot showers, or using the sauna. It is also best to avoid your afternoon nap after your procedure. Many practitioners will recommend that you stay upright for at least five hours, avoid exercise, and not rub or massage the treated areas after botulinum toxin injections.

And yes, eating fresh pineapples does help with swelling and bruising as it has anti-inflammatory properties.

Lastly, it is important to note that most soft tissue dermal fillers take about four weeks to fully settle and for you to start seeing the best results.

SkinMiles: Your Personal Skincare Destination

SkinMiles opened its doors in November 2015 after Dr Alek Nikolic realised that doctor-only recommended products with active ingredients were difficult to access. Dr Alek also realised that many people are not sure which products or ingredients to use for their skin types and skin concerns. “SkinMiles was created to allow for more convenient access to doctor recommended active ingredients, and to provide honest, reliable and effective advice for a personalised skin regime, to everyone.”

Visit: https://skinmiles.com

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 20
spa therapies

Stem Cell Innovations

The field of skincare has witnessed remarkable advancements in recent years, with cutting-edge technologies and research continually pushing the boundaries of innovation. One of the most exciting developments is the integration of stem cell research into skincare products. Stem cells possess incredible regenerative properties, and their application in skincare holds tremendous promise. In 2023, the beauty industry is embracing this groundbreaking approach, offering revolutionary solutions that have the potential to transform the way we care for our skin. This article explores the latest stem cell innovations in skincare, highlighting their benefits and discussing the future implications for the industry.

Understanding Stem Cells

To grasp the significance of stem cell innovations in skincare, it is essential to understand what stem cells are and how they function. Stem cells are unique cells that have the ability to self-renew and differentiate into specialized cell types. They are found in various tissues throughout the body, including the skin. Stem cells play a crucial role in tissue repair and

regeneration, making them ideal candidates for skincare applications.

Stem Cell Extracts and Serums

Skincare companies have harnessed the regenerative potential of stem cells by developing products that contain stem cell extracts and serums. These formulations aim to stimulate the skin's natural healing and rejuvenation processes. Stem cell extracts derived from plants or fruits, such as apples or grapes, are rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and proteins that can promote collagen production, improve skin elasticity, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. These serums are often used in conjunction with other skincare products, such as moisturizers or face masks, to enhance their effectiveness.

Stem Cell-Based Treatments

Beyond topical applications, stem cell-based treatments have emerged as a game-changer in the skincare industry. Stem cell therapy involves the extraction of stem cells from a person's own body,

typically from adipose (fat) tissue, and their re-injection into targeted areas of the skin. This technique promotes skin regeneration, reduces scarring, and improves overall skin quality. Stem cell-based treatments have shown remarkable results in addressing various skin concerns, including acne scars, pigmentation issues, and even age-related skin changes.

In 2023, the beauty industry is witnessing a revolution in skincare with the integration of stem cell innovations. Stem cell extracts and serums, packed with regenerative properties, offer consumers an opportunity to enhance their skincare routines and combat the signs of aging. Moreover, stem cell-based treatments provide individuals with a non-invasive option to address specific skin concerns, such as scarring or pigmentation issues.

With ongoing advancements, stem cell-based skincare has the potential to redefine the beauty industry, offering individuals new ways to achieve healthier, rejuvenated, and radiant skin.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 22 spa therapies

Controlling Aging Skin

Scientists have performed extensive research to track the changes that occur during skin aging and understand what we can realistically do for this preexisting condition. In the past, scientists have focused on treating just the manifestations of skin aging (wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, loss of elasticity, etc.). But we now know that biochemical reactions, including the generation of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs) and Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs) are responsible for the aging skin condition. With this newfound knowledge, we can now focus our efforts on how to impact these biochemical reactions that manifest age-related changes to stop them before they start.

Antioxidants to Fight Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) Damage

Normally, the body can handle free radicals with the use of antioxidants. Antioxidants include vitamins (such as Ascorbic Acid [Vitamin C] and Tocopherol [Vitamin E]), enzymes (such as Superoxide Dismutase, Catalase and Peroxidase) and even proteins that can be found naturally in the body or ingested as part of our diet. If, however, antioxidants are in short supply, or if the free radical damage is excessive, damage to the cells and tissue will occur.

While ingesting antioxidants can effectively scavenge Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), skin is often the last to get its ration of antioxidants. That is when topically-applied cosmetic products come into play. Scientists have been studying an entire arsenal of plant antioxidants that, when applied topically, can help us fight free radicals and protect our skin. Studies have shown that topical application of antioxidants diminishes the severity of UVA-induced

dermatoses and raises the amount of UVA radiation required to evoke immediate pigment darkening to the skin. Recent studies from the University of Illinois have demonstrated how Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and Tocopherol (Vitamin E) are critical for use with sunscreens to protect skin from ROS. Because oxidative stress plays a key role in the biological events leading to skin aging, the use of topicallyapplied antioxidants helps prevent future damage by trapping ROS and quenching them before they damage our cells.

Inhibiting MMPs

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a key factor in stimulating MMP activity. While natural MMP inhibitors exist in the skin, they decline with age. Topical agents such as retinoids may inhibit MMPs, deeming retinoids, including Retinol (Vitamin A) and its derivatives, excellent choices for reversing the signs of photoaging and preventing the formation of MMPs. Bioflavonoids, including the proanthocyanidins from Grape Seed Extract, the polyphenols from Green and White Teas and Soy phytoestrogens, are also excellent for controlling MMP activity. When MMP activity is turned on, collagen synthesis shuts down. So for best results, one should use a product that controls MMPs while stimulating collagen, elastin, and Hyaluronic Acid biosynthesis; this includes specific synthetic peptides, Retinol (Vitamin A) and its derivatives, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) and its derivatives, Soy and Yeast extracts.

Create “Sugar Traps” to Control the Formation of AGEs

The formation of AGEs in the body occurs spontaneously when sugar molecules come in contact

with proteins. This glycation reaction occurs without any intervention of enzymes. By the same token, our body does not possess enzymes that can reverse the reaction.

Controlling the formation of AGEs is a relatively new field of research; apparently the best means of controlling AGEs is to interfere with their formation. There are some ingredients that have been shown to inhibit glycation from occurring, but exactly how all of these agents work is not understood just yet. These ingredients include Glucosamine, Soy proteins, the Soy active known as Genestein and specific peptide molecules. Studies have shown that a peptide molecule known as Arginine/Lysine polypeptide can bind to sugar, preventing it from reacting with proteins and triggering the cross-linking of collagen. This peptide molecule acts as a sugar trap, binding to the sugar in the body, making it unable to react with proteins.

Controlling Biochemical Reactions

Controlling biochemical reactions before they occur is the most effective way to inhibit the negative results from these reactions that are associated with signs of aging. Unfortunately, that’s not always so easy. Since the skin is in a constant state of aging, it is likely that many of these biochemical reactions have already occurred. Understanding the way certain ingredients interact with biochemical reactions is, however, the first step in controlling future reactions and creating a treatment that is most beneficial for the client.

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spa
therapies

Non-Invasive Hair Loss Therapies: An Emerging Aesthetic Trend

Hair loss affects millions of individuals worldwide, impacting their self-esteem and overall well-being. In recent years, the aesthetic industry has witnessed a surge in non-invasive hair loss therapies as people seek effective and convenient solutions. These treatments offer alternatives to traditional invasive procedures, such as hair transplants, and provide hope for individuals struggling with hair loss. In this article, we will explore some of the emerging noninvasive hair loss therapies that have gained popularity in recent years and their role as a burgeoning aesthetic trend.

1. Low-Level Laser Therapy (LLLT)

Low-Level Laser Therapy, also known as laser hair therapy or red light therapy, is a non-invasive treatment that utilizes low-intensity lasers or lightemitting diodes (LEDs) to stimulate hair growth. The laser devices emit light energy that penetrates the scalp, promoting blood circulation and triggering cellular activity in hair follicles. This therapy is believed to stimulate hair growth, increase hair density, and improve hair quality. LLLT is typically performed at specialized clinics or through at-home devices, offering convenience to users.

2. Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) Therapy

Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) Therapy has gained significant attention in recent years as a non-invasive

hair loss treatment. It involves extracting a small sample of the patient's blood, processing it to concentrate the platelets, and then injecting the platelet-rich plasma into the scalp. The growth factors present in PRP are believed to stimulate hair follicles, promote hair growth, and improve hair thickness and quality. PRP therapy is minimally invasive, with virtually no downtime, making it an attractive option for individuals seeking non-surgical solutions to hair loss.

3. Scalp Micropigmentation (SMP)

Scalp Micropigmentation (SMP) is a non-invasive cosmetic procedure that involves depositing pigments into the scalp to create the appearance of natural hair follicles. This technique is commonly used to address issues like receding hairlines, thinning hair, and baldness. Skilled practitioners use specialized equipment to tattoo small, intricate dots that mimic the appearance of hair follicles, resulting in the illusion of a fuller head of hair. SMP is a long-lasting solution that requires minimal maintenance and provides a quick aesthetic improvement for individuals with hair loss concerns.

4. Nutritional Supplements and Topical Treatments

Non-invasive hair loss therapies are not limited to clinical procedures. Nutritional supplements and topical treatments have gained popularity as

convenient and accessible options for combating hair loss. These products often contain vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and other essential nutrients that support healthy hair growth. Nutritional supplements can be taken orally, while topical treatments, such as shampoos, serums, and foams, are applied directly to the scalp. While these approaches may not provide drastic results like other therapies, they can play a supportive role in maintaining hair health and improving the overall condition of the scalp.

Non-invasive hair loss therapies are revolutionizing the aesthetic industry, offering hope to individuals experiencing hair loss without the need for invasive surgical procedures. The emergence of therapies such as Low-Level Laser Therapy, Platelet-Rich Plasma Therapy, Scalp Micropigmentation, and the availability of nutritional supplements and topical treatments have widened the range of options for those seeking to address hair loss. These non-invasive treatments provide convenience, minimal downtime, and promising results, contributing to the growing trend of seeking aesthetic solutions that prioritize natural-looking hair restoration. As technology continues to advance, non-invasive hair loss therapies are expected to become even more effective and accessible, giving individuals a renewed sense of confidence and self-esteem.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 26
innovation

Exploring the Latest Trends in Skincare: Skin Cycling

The world of skincare is constantly evolving, with new trends and techniques emerging regularly. One such trend that has gained significant attention in recent times is "skin cycling." Skin cycling is a holistic approach to skincare that involves adapting your skincare routine based on your skin's natural cycles and needs. This article will delve into the concept of skin cycling, explore its benefits, and discuss some of the latest trends associated with this innovative skincare practice.

Understanding Skin Cycling

Skin cycling is rooted in the idea that our skin's needs change over time due to various factors like environmental conditions, hormones, and age. Just like our bodies go through different cycles, our skin experiences periods of renewal, repair, and vulnerability. Skin cycling emphasizes the importance of adjusting your skincare routine to cater to these changing needs.

There are different approaches to skin cycling, but a common one involves dividing the month into specific phases or weeks and tailoring skincare products and techniques accordingly. For example, during the renewal phase, exfoliation and gentle cleansers may be recommended, while the repair phase may call for nourishing and soothing products to promote healing.

Benefits of Skin Cycling

Skin cycling offers several benefits that make it an appealing skincare approach. Firstly, it allows you to address specific skin concerns at different stages, maximizing the effectiveness of your skincare routine. By adapting your products and techniques accordingly, you can target issues like acne, dryness, or dullness more effectively.

Moreover, skin cycling promotes a mindful and holistic approach to skincare. By paying attention to your skin's changing needs, you become more attuned to its signals, fostering a deeper connection with your skin. This approach encourages self-care and self-awareness, enhancing your overall wellbeing.

Latest Trends in Skin Cycling

As skin cycling gains popularity, several trends and practices have emerged within this realm. Here are some of the latest trends associated with skin cycling:

• Customized Skincare Phases: Many brands now offer curated skincare phases tailored to the different cycles of the skin. These phases often include specific product combinations designed to address the skin's needs during each phase, simplifying the process for consumers.

• Ingredient Rotation: The concept of ingredient rotation involves using different active ingredients during specific phases to target various skin concerns effectively. For example, using vitamin C-based products during the renewal phase for brightening effects and retinol-based products during the repair phase for collagen production.

•Seasonal Adaptation: Another trend within skin cycling is adapting your skincare routine based on seasonal changes. During the warmer months, lightweight and hydrating products may be favored, while heavier moisturizers and protective barriers may be utilized in colder climates.

• Integrated Wellness: Skin cycling is often viewed as part of a broader wellness lifestyle. Incorporating practices like stress management, exercise, and a healthy diet can complement the effects of skin cycling, promoting overall skin health.

In conclusion: Skin cycling offers a refreshing perspective on skincare by acknowledging the dynamic nature of our skin and tailoring our routines accordingly. By embracing the latest trends in skin cycling, individuals can create personalized skincare routines that promote optimal skin health and overall well-being.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 28
spa therapies

DNA Testing To Customise Your Skincare Products

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The relationship between science and beauty is an ever-evolving one. When it comes to skincare, the one-size-fits-all adage—suggesting that products can simply be skin tone - or skin type-specific —doesn’t hold much weight anymore, and newer innovations are only too happy to bridge the gap between what’s available in the market and what your skin specifically needs. With an increased focus on what works for individual skin types, hyper-personalised beauty is gaining favour all over the world. The quest for identifying what works best for you goes beyond just skin deep—right down to the genetic level—helping you analyse and predict how to reverse certain skin conditions.

What Is DNA-based Skincare, And Why Is It Better?

As the world makes a collective shift towards bespoke beauty, customising products for one’s specific DNA serves as the next logical step, believes celebrity skin expert Dr Harshna Bijlani. She says, “We all know that DNA makes up our appearance— the colour of our hair, eyes and skin tone are all determined by our DNA. But many aren’t aware that the ageing process is also controlled by our DNA. Human DNA comes in 23 pairs of packages called chromosomes. These chromosomes are large bundles of tightly-packed DNA. The genes that you have in your body right now make up your genotype, which determines your physical appearance. Your genes greatly impact your skin health with regards to how soon you start ageing, your propensity towards discolouration or pigmentation, the tendency to have freckles, hair colour, sagging skin and so on. So, for example, if your skin cells are not so great at deflecting UV rays, a DNA test can suggest you add a higher SPF to your routine.

How Can DNA-based Skincare Help You Personalise Your Skincare Routine?

The primary takeaway from this new branch of skincare is that studying DNA can help determine the concerns that your skin could be prone to, including pigmentation and inflammation. By identifying these underlying concerns, you would theoretically be able to take preventive action accordingly. The skincare products found over the counter are great at controlling skincare concerns once you notice them, like lack of moisture, signs of ageing, sun protection, pigmentation and acne. “However, if certain skin issues aren’t getting better despite efforts, then DNA testing could help understand what the underlying issues could be,” Bijlani explains.

What Is The Process of DNA Testing and Mapping For Beauty Products?

Those with a phobia of needles needn’t worry, since the process of DNA testing is largely non-invasive

in nature. A simple swab test is usually conducted at the clinic or through an at-home DNA testing kit. The swab is then sent to a laboratory, where the genetic components are broken down and studied to understand your dominant genes, your skin’s current collagen and antioxidant levels, and sun and inflammation protection factors. Once these factors are determined, experts can help you pick the right skincare products for your skin’s needs, and also recommend preventative products.

If you would like to try DNA mapping for a highly personalised skincare routine, Bijlani recommends that London-based skincare label, Geneu, would a good place to start. Those who don’t have the patience to wait for test results to come back will rejoice in the same-day DNA testing available as part of the personalised serum range at Selfridges as well. In addition, the skin expert also recommends Sweden-based skincare brand, ALLÉL, which offers DNA-tailored skincare and supplements at a string of certified clinics spread across Europe and South Africa.

For further convenience, Skintelli helps you perfect your skincare routine by analysing genetic factors through an at-home DNA testing kit. The process of DNA collection is carried out through painless collection adhesives, after which the skin samples are to be mailed back for testing. Once they determine the current quality of your skin, you will receive personalised matching with existing skincare products across three pricing tiers, ranging from luxury names to retail stores.

In India, FutureMed, a DNA testing company, includes skin health as a part of their overall testing. In an interview, Chandni Luthra, director at FutureMed India, confirmed that skin ageing can be predicted and further investigated through testing. “Everything from wrinkles, cellulite to inflammation and skin sagging is related to your genetic makeup. This is because the skin is made up of so many proteins. For example, collagen, which forms the basic structure in the skin, is a protein, so is melanin, the pigment, which gives skin its colour. This explains why some people start seeing wrinkles, fine lines, acne and skin discolouration in their early 20s, while others only see skin trouble later on in their lives,” she explains.

So, should you hop onboard this science-driven skincare innovation? The numbers suggest that you will anyway, sooner rather than later. The market size of DNA-based skincare products across the globe is expected to touch $1.7 billion by 2025.

Bespoke creams for skincare concerns, such as sun protection, scars and wrinkles, find the highest number of takers at 52.8 per cent of the market share. Facials serums for different age groups serve as the second most sought after products, with an estimated growth rate of eight per cent annually.

What Precautions Should You Keep In Mind When Opting For DNA-based Skincare?

The good news first. A customised skincare regimen that keeps all your needs and factors in mind can help counter external skin aggressors, while also dealing with internal deficiencies like boosting collagen production and reducing damage caused by free radicals. However, it pays to bear in mind that the concept of DNA-based skincare is still in its nascent stages. Some doctors are concerned that consumers might take DNA tests as bible, which can be harmful when issues like rosacea, acne and eczema may need to be diagnosed and treated by a dermatologist first. “There isn’t enough research done to prove the efficacy of DNA skincare testing. Plus, the current customisation available for different product formulations is quite limited. Most companies can help do a DNA test and recommend products from their catalogue. However, unique formulations based on DNA testing are still not quite available. It is also worthy to note that it’s quite an expensive process right now, and may not be accessible for everyone,” Bijlani cautions.

spa therapies

Sothys Hydra Hyaluronic Acid4

MEET

THE NEW HYDRATING RANGE FROM SOTHYS, with 4x moisturizing power!

Based on its latest Advanced research discoveries, Sothys is now revealing its new Hydra Hyaluronic Acid4 hydrating range, composed of 4 sources of hyaluronic acid and 2 patented active ingredients derived from Sothys Advanced Research. A genuine concentration of innovation to act deep within the skin.

A new professional Intensive treatment and four products for home use to offer immediate, longlasting hydration through synergistic action. A new high-performance youth solution, because wellhydrated skin appears visibly younger and copes better with the passage of time.

Key Active Botanical Ingredients:

• 4 sources of Hyaluronic Acid. Sothys 1055 Boletus mushroom extract to reactivate the skin's hydric memory with a pro-youthfulness action. HPM Hyaluronic Acid to help form a protective film. BPM Hyaluronic Acid for rapid penetration for action deep within the skin. Micro Hyaluronic Acid

to quickly penetrate and deliver targeted regenerating action.

• Organic Rowan Berry peptides for a global action on the skin's barrier function

• Pea Extract rich in peptides to protect and maintain skin stem cells.

• Organic Samphire rich in vitamins and minerals to stimulate natural moisturising factors within the skin.

• Olive, Soybean and Pollen Extract to relieve sensations of discomfort and tightness.

INTENSIVE HYDRATING SERUM:

Designed to work like a skin architect, this intensive serum aims to lastingly boost hydration mechanisms. Its light-as-water texture is rich in liposomes and instantly melts into skin.

HYDRATING YOUTH CREAMS:

Designed to work like a protective shield against dehydration, these creams aim to immediately plump skin and reactivate its moisture memory. Results: Day after day, skin regains an optimal level of hydration, becomes soft, smooth, and visibly plumper, and is lastingly protected. A choice of 2

textures for an everyday customised approach: Satin cream for normal to combination skin and Velvet cream for normal to dry skin

HYDRA-PLUMPING MASK:

Designed to provide an instant burst of hydration, this mask also has a pleasant rich and enveloping texture. In minutes, skin is visibly plumper and smoother and the complexion glows once again. Results: Skin is intensely hydrated, supple, more radiant, comfortable and seemingly rejuvenated.

THE HYDRATING INTENSIVE TREATMENT:

The absolute hydration solution with 6 stages, exclusive Sothys-Paris Digi-esthétique® massage techniques, to quench, hydrate and plump the skin, renewing its youthfulness. This high-performance treatment combines 4 sources of hyaluronic acid with 2 patented Sothys active ingredients. It is recommended as a series of three treatments. Results: After the first treatment, 100% of people say the skin is hydrated, softer and more radiant.

For more information visit: www.orleanscosmetics.co.za

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 32
innovation

innovation

Introducing Monteil

Initiated by the cosmetic expert Germaine Monteil, who founded the brand in 1936. “A tailor-made beauty concept for every woman, which incorporates her whole personality, her core and her appearance.” Germaine Monteil leaves a legacy, that has characterised the MONTEIL brand for more than 75 years.

With the expertise of BRAIN AG, which is one of the leading technological companies in Europe in the field of industrial, so-called white bio-technology, initiatives for innovative skin care for the domestic and international cosmetics market will be able to continue to be developed in the future.

The special features: bio-active, natural active ingredients are used in an incomparable high quality and at the same in an optimal concentration. The symbiotic effects of a wide range of complementary ingredients, which take effect at various places on the skin at the same time.

The MONTEIL PROFESSIONAL products in the cubicle offer the perfect solution for every type of skin and various skin conditions. With MONTEIL treatments you will be able to compile individualised luxury treatment for your clients. MONTEIL home care products supplement treatment rituals optimally and are easy to use.

BEAUTY IS NOT A MATTER OF AGE. AGE IS A MATTER OF FEELING. FEELINGS ARE TIMELESS.

For more information: www.lcn.co.za

TRIPLE POWER SKIN LIFTING

THREAD LIFTING - THE LATEST AND PAINLESS FACELIFT TECHNOLOGY WITHOUT NEEDLES!

What Does Thread Lifting

Mean?

It is a painless and non-invasive treatment, without the use of needles or devices, to tighten and optically plump up face, neck and décolleté. The main components of the collagen threads used are: silk extract, swiftlet nest extract, hydrolyzet collagen, indian pennywort, tripeptide-1, oligopeptide-2 and gold.

How To Apply?

The highly effective collagen threads are being placed onto the prepared skin area and gently worked in using the Élixir Métamorphose 4-Way Hyaluronic Serum for visible results, after one treatment already!

Experience The Positive Effects of This Treatment:

• Immediate results

• Increased elasticity of the skin

• Intensively moisturized skin

• Strengthening of the skin barrier

• Improved dermal density

• Lifted facial areas

• Pore reduction

• No downtime

• Painless and risk free

HYDRO CELL HYDRATING ANTI-AGING PURE MOISTURE WITH THE POWER OF THE SEA

The perfect anti-aging care entry with the unique combination of active ingredients from marine plants and algae. Hydro-active factors detoxify, activate and protect the skin cells. The skin is provided with a high level of moisture and at the same time protected effectively against skin aging factors, such as everyday environmental pollution.

Good Reasons For Using Hydro Cell:

• Active ingredients scientifically proven

• Prix de L`INNOVATION 2009 award

• Maximum moisture for every skin age & condition

• Cell regeneration and detoxifying effect

• Restores your skin balance

Young-looking, beautiful skin with the power of the sea. The MONTEIL HYDRO CELL product range provides maximum moisture and regenerates the cells. Its origin and the selected combination of the hydro-active factors used make the formulation and effect of the HYDRO CELL products so unique: The skin is provided with a high level of moisture, the cells are detoxified and regenerated. At the same time the skin is protected effectively against environmental pollution. All HYDRO CELL products are characterised by their high tolerability and have been dermatologically tested. As a result of the intensive provision of moisture and fresh fragrant experience.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 34

spa therapies

Mesotherapy: Exploring New Trends and Proven Effectiveness

Mesotherapy is a minimally invasive cosmetic procedure that has gained popularity in recent years due to its versatility and effectiveness. This technique involves injecting small amounts of various substances into the mesodermal layer of the skin to address a wide range of aesthetic concerns. As the field of aesthetics continues to evolve, new trends in mesotherapy have emerged, offering innovative solutions for patients.

Personalized Mesotherapy Treatments

One of the significant advancements in mesotherapy is the shift towards personalized treatments. Previously, mesotherapy protocols followed a standardized approach, using a combination of vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and hyaluronic acid. However, recent developments have allowed practitioners to customize treatment plans based on the individual needs of each patient.

The process begins with a comprehensive assessment of the patient's skin type, concerns, and goals. By tailoring the mesotherapy cocktails to address specific issues such as hydration, pigmentation, or rejuvenation, practitioners can achieve more targeted and effective results. This personalized approach ensures that patients receive treatments that are optimized for their unique requirements, resulting in improved outcomes.

Combination Therapy: Synergistic Effects

Another emerging trend in mesotherapy is the use

of combination therapy. By combining mesotherapy with other cosmetic procedures such as microneedling, radiofrequency, or laser therapy, practitioners can enhance the effectiveness of the treatment and deliver more comprehensive results.

Combination therapy works by leveraging the synergistic effects of different modalities. For instance, microneedling creates microchannels in the skin, allowing the mesotherapy cocktail to penetrate deeper and enhance the absorption of active ingredients. The combination of these techniques promotes collagen production, improves skin texture, and increases overall efficacy.

Studies have shown that combining mesotherapy with other modalities can provide superior outcomes compared to using mesotherapy alone. Patients experience enhanced skin rejuvenation, reduced pigmentation, and improved overall skin quality. Furthermore, combination therapy often requires fewer sessions, reducing treatment duration and enhancing patient satisfaction.

Natural and Biocompatible Substances

In recent years, there has been a growing demand for natural and biocompatible substances in mesotherapy. Patients are increasingly seeking treatments that utilize ingredients derived from natural sources and are free from potentially harmful chemicals.

To meet this demand, mesotherapy cocktails are

now incorporating substances such as plant extracts, antioxidants, and growth factors. These ingredients provide multiple benefits, including improved skin hydration, increased collagen synthesis, and enhanced antioxidant protection. Natural substances also tend to have lower risks of adverse reactions, making them suitable for a broader range of patients. Numerous studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of natural and biocompatible substances in mesotherapy. For example, hyaluronic acid, a naturally occurring molecule in the skin, has been widely used to improve hydration and restore volume. Plant extracts like green tea or chamomile offer antioxidant properties, which help combat free radicals and reduce signs of aging.

Mesotherapy continues to evolve as a versatile and effective cosmetic procedure. New trends in this field, such as personalized treatments, combination therapy, and the use of natural and biocompatible substances, have expanded the possibilities for achieving optimal outcomes. These advancements allow practitioners to tailor treatments to individual needs, enhance treatment efficacy through combination therapy, and meet the growing demand for natural solutions. As mesotherapy continues to progress, it holds great promise for addressing various aesthetic concerns while providing safe and effective results for patients.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 36

Skin Icing: How This Chilly Facial Beautifies Skin

Skin icing is a cryotherapy treatment in which the skinisexposedto extremely cold temperatures for several minutes. It is said to have a variety of skincare benefits, including soothing redness, exfoliation, and blemish control.

What is Skin Icing?

The most basic form of skin icing is when you use an ice cube to reduce under-eye or facial puffiness. It has long been a staple of skincare wisdom (we’ve all used a refrigerated spoon or cucumber slices on our eyes in the past, right?). Far from being an old wives' tale, there’s science behind this age-old advice. When actual ice is applied to the skin, it causes blood to rise to the surface (think of that rosy glow you get after a brisk winter walk), which soothes and tightens the skin. Also known as an ice facial, skin icing is a cryotherapy treatment where vaporized nitrogen is used to cool the skin of the face, scalp, and neck area.

Ice has long been a secret to clear skin and a healthylooking glow. Russian Empress Catherine the Great was said to have applied ice cubes to her face, neck, and décolletage every morning to give her skin a radiant appearance. Whilst expensive facials and complicated skincare tools have their place, sometimes the simplest tricks are classics for a reason.

Benefits of Skin Icing

•Reduce inflammation: "Think about when you have an injury or swelling in the body and your doctor instructs you to ice it—it’s the same concept, but now we're using it for aesthetic purposes," explains Marino. "Many people who suffer from inflammatory

skin conditions like acne and rosacea can benefit from cold therapy because of its ability to reduce the inflammation the skin, which is a key trigger to both conditions."

• Reduces pore size: Skin icing minimizes the appearance ofenlarged poresand may help to unclog pores that appear larger due to debris and excess sebum. Icing tones the face, making your skin (and foundation) look smoother.

• Exfoliates the skin: A cryofacial can help remove the outer layer of dead skin cells and stimulate new ones underneath to grow in a more even, smooth distribution.

• Soothes blemishes: Ice can help reduce swelling and the redness of pimples, and can also soothe irritated skin. And because swollen skin makes it difficult for topical creams to reach the bacteria inside the pores, icing may actually help antibacterial agents and topical antibiotics get into the pores since it exfoliates.

How to Prepare for Skin Icing

To prep the skin for an ice facial, we recommend gently cleansing the skin and applying a moisturizer to help protect the skin barrier.It's also best to avoid sun exposure before treating your skin to avoid sunburns and irritation throughout the treatment.

What to Expect During Skin Icing

Liquid nitrogen (around -200 degrees Celsius) vaporizes (is no longer as cold) and is pumped out of a hose and onto your skin.The hose is moved quickly over the face and held far enough away that it won't freeze-burn the skin. And, contrary to what you might think, a professional ice facial doesn't feel

unbearably cold. It feels more like a cool stream of air, but it will feel colder as the treatment progresses. The treatment is usually around 10 minutes long.

Potential Side Effects

Cryotherapy can cause more harm than good if not done properly.It's important to have it done by a well-trained professional to avoid possible risks like burns, frostbite, and nerve damage. "It's also safer for paler skin, as it can create discoloration in those with darker skin or a tan." Though it's safe for most skin types, although be cautious if you have sensitive skin or skin that reacts to changes in temperature (for example, some rosacea-prone skin and cold urticaria).

Aftercare

As your skin heals, it's important to treat it with a little TLC. Steer clear of chemical or physical exfoliation and other active ingredients that could potentially be irritating (think: retinoids or benzoyl peroxide), and instead, stick to gentle cleansers and warm water. Finally, as always, lather on an SPF of at least 30 or more, if you'll be outside.

The Final Takeaway

Cold therapy tools are noted for reducing inflammation, redness, and puffiness, stimulating circulation and helpingto sculpt the face. The cold temperature can constrict blood vessels, which can decrease puffiness, but such tools should be used with caution so as not to burn the skin.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 40
spa therapies

DrK has a revolutionary approach towards slowing down the AGING PROCESS!!

The DrK brand of cellCEUTICALS works on the brain, gut, and skin which are all interconnected through a complex network of nerves, hormones, and other signaling molecules. This network is known as the brain-gut-skin axis, and it plays a crucial role in the aging process.

One of the primary functions of the brain-gut-skin axis is to regulate the body's immune system. As we age, our immune systems become less effective at fighting off infections and diseases. However, the brain-gut-skin axis can help to support immune function by regulating the production of immune cells and signaling molecules.

Another important role of the brain-gut-skin axis is to regulate inflammation. Inflammation is a natural part of the body's immune response, but chronic inflammation can contribute to a wide range of agerelated diseases, including Alzheimer's disease, cardiovascular disease, and cancer. The brain-gutskin axis can help to regulate inflammation by controlling the levels of pro-inflammatory and antiinflammatory signaling molecules.

Finally, the brain-gut-skin axis plays a crucial role in maintaining the health and integrity of the skin. As we age, our skin becomes less elastic, more prone

to damage, and more susceptible to infection. The brain-gut-skin axis can help to support skin health by regulating the production of collagen and other structural proteins, as well as by controlling the levels of inflammation and oxidative stress in the skin.

The brain-gut-skin axis plays a critical role in the aging process by regulating immune function, inflammation, and skin health. By supporting this interconnected network, we can help to slow the aging process and promote overall health and wellbeing.

All DrK cellREVERSE products contain a special blend of Nucleotides to sustain LIFE-COLOGY which is the study of cellular health to sustain a healthy, more youthful LIFE. Nucleotides are essential building blocks of DNA and RNA, the genetic material that carries the instructions for all cellular functions. As we age, the levels of nucleotides in our bodies start to decline, which can have a significant impact on our health and well-being.

One of the primary functions of nucleotides is to support cellular repair and regeneration. As we age, our cells become increasingly damaged and less efficient at repairing themselves. Nucleotides play a critical role in helping cells to repair DNA damage and maintain their structure and function.

In addition to supporting cellular repair, nucleotides also play a key role in immune function. As we age, our immune systems become less effective at fighting off infections and diseases. Nucleotides help to support immune function by providing the building blocks needed to produce new white blood cells and other immune cells.

Overall, the importance of nucleotides in the aging process cannot be overstated. By supporting cellular repair and immune function, nucleotides can help to slow the aging process and maintain health and vitality well into old age.

The DrK NucleoCollagen is an ALL-IN-ONE product to fight off the aging process. This product not only contains this special blend of Nucleotides but also 10 000mg of Bovine Collagen, Trans-Resveratrol (Super Antioxidant to improve brain function), all vitamins and minerals.

For more information: www.drkdermalhealth.com

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 40 spa therapies

Anti-Aging Foods to Support Your 40s-and-Beyond Body

When we pack our diet with vibrant foods loaded with antioxidants, healthy fats, water, and essential nutrients, our body will show its appreciation through its largest organ: our skin. After all, the skin is often the first part of our body to show internal trouble. Researchers have even concluded that eating fruits and veggies is the safest and healthiest way to combat dull complexions and fine lines. Ready to glow? Here are 10 of the best anti-ageing foods to nourish your body for a glow that comes from within.

The health benefits of watercress don’t disappoint! This nutrient-dense hydrating leafy green is a great source of: Calcium, Potassium, Manganese, Phosphorus, Vitamins A, C, K, B-1, and B-2. Watercress acts as an internal skin antiseptic and increases the circulation and delivery of minerals, to all cells of the body, resulting in enhanced oxygenation of the skin. Packed with vitamins A and C, the antioxidants in watercress may neutralize harmful free radicals, helping to keep fine lines and wrinkles away.

Red bell peppers are loaded with antioxidants which reign supreme when it comes to anti-aging. In addition to their high content of vitamin C — which is good for collagen production — red bell peppers contain powerful antioxidants called carotenoids. Carotenoids are plant pigments responsible for the bright red, yellow, and orange colors you see in many fruits and vegetables. They have a variety of anti-inflammatory properties and may help protect skin from sun damage, pollution, and environmental toxins.

This delicious superfood is rich in a variety of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals that may help to improve skin elasticity and minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. These include: Vitamins A, C, K, and E, Calcium, Potassium, Magnesium, Phosphorus and B vitamins. The wide range of antioxidants in papaya helps to fight free radical damage and may delay signs of aging. Papaya also contains an enzyme called papain, which provides additional anti-aging benefits by working as one of nature’s best anti-inflammatory agents. It’s also found in many exfoliating products. So yes, eating papaya (or using products containing papain) may help your body shed dead skin cells, leaving you with glowing, vibrant skin!

Blueberries are rich in vitamins A and C, as well as an age-defying antioxidant called anthocyanin. This is what gives blueberries their deep, beautiful blue color. These powerful antioxidants may help protect skin from damage due to the sun, stress, and pollution by moderating the inflammatory response and preventing collagen loss.

Broccoli is an anti-inflammatory, anti-aging powerhouse packed with: Vitamins C and K, a variety of antioxidants, fiber, folate,lutein and calcium. Your body needs vitamin C for the production of collagen, the main protein in skin that gives it strength and elasticity.

Other youthful benefits: The nutrient lutein, has been linked to the preservation of the brain’s memory function, as well as vitamin K and calcium (which are essential for bone health and the prevention of osteoporosis).

Spinach is super hydrating and packed with antioxidants that help to oxygenate and replenish the entire body. It’s also rich in: Vitamins A, C, E, and K, Magnesium, plant-based heme iron and lutein.This versatile leafy green’s high vitamin C content enhances collagen production to keep skin firm and smooth. But that’s not all. The vitamin A it provides may promote strong, shiny hair, while vitamin K has been shown to help reduce inflammation in cells.

Many nuts (especially almonds) are a great source of vitamin E, which may help repair skin tissue, retain skin moisture, and protect skin from damaging UV rays. Walnuts even containTrusted Source antiinflammatory omega-3 fatty acids that may help: Strengthen skin cell membranes, protect against sun damage and give skin a beautiful glow by preserving its natural oil barrier. Eating nuts is linked to: Reduced risk for heart disease (walnuts) and type 2 diabetes (pistachios), and potential prevention of cognitive decline in older adults (almonds).

8. Avocado

Avocados are high in inflammation-fighting fatty

acids that promote smooth, supple skin. They also contain a variety of essential nutrients that may prevent the negative effects of aging, including:

Vitamins K, C, E, and A, B vitamins and Potassium

The high content of vitamin A in avocados can help us shed dead skin cells, leaving us with gorgeous, glowing skin. Their carotenoid content may also assist in blocking toxins and damage from the sun’s rays and also help to protect against skin cancers.

9. Sweet Potatoes

The orange color of the sweet potato comes from an antioxidant called beta-carotene which is converted to vitamin A. Vitamin A may help restore skin elasticity, promote skin cell turnover, and ultimately contribute to soft, youthful-looking skin. This delicious root vegetable is also a great source of vitamins C and E — both of which may protect our skin from harmful free radicals and keep our complexion radiant.

10. Pomegranate Seeds

Pomegranates have been used for centuries as a healing medicinal fruit. High in vitamin C and a variety of potent antioxidantsTrusted Source, pomegranates may protect our body from free radical damage and reduce levels of inflammation in our system. These healthy fruits also contain a compound called punicalagins, which may help to preserve collagen in the skin, slowing signs of aging.

Flood your body with powerful nutrients

By nourishing ourselves with these anti-aging foods, we can gain fuel to look and feel our best. If you’re looking for more delicious plants to try, choose fruits and vegetables deep in color. The rich shades are usually a sign of stronger radical fighting abilities to keep your skin healthy and vibrant. The more colors you can fit on your plate, the better. It’s time to slow down signs of aging and truly glow from within!

Nathalie Rhone, MS, RDN, CDN is a registered dietitian and functional medicine nutritionist with a BA in Psychology from Cornell University and a MS in Clinical Nutrition from New York University. She’s the founder of Nutrition by Nathalie LLC, a private nutrition practice in New York City focusing on health and wellness using an integrative approach, and All Good Eats, a social media health and wellness brand.

1. Watercress 2. Red Bell Pepper 3. Papaya 4. Blueberries 5. Broccoli 6. Spinach 7. Nuts
42 Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 10
spa therapies

spa therapies

Holistic Approaches to Aesthetic Skincare

In recent years, there has been a growing interest in holistic approaches to skincare. Rather than solely focusing on external treatments, holistic skincare emphasizes the connection between the mind, body, and skin. This approach aims to promote overall well-being while achieving healthy, radiant skin. By considering lifestyle factors, nutrition, stress management, and using natural remedies, holistic skincare advocates address the root causes of skin issues, leading to long-term and sustainable results.

This article explores the concept of holistic skincare and highlights various approaches that can help you attain a healthy and beautiful complexion.

The Mind-Body Connection

Holistic skincare recognizes the intricate relationship between the mind and the body, understanding that emotional and mental well-being greatly impact skin health. Stress, anxiety, and negative emotions can manifest on the skin in the form of breakouts, dullness, and inflammation. Therefore, practices such as meditation, mindfulness, and deep breathing exercises are encouraged to promote relaxation and reduce stress levels. Engaging in regular physical exercise also boosts circulation, promotes detoxification, and imparts a healthy glow to the skin.

Nutrition for Skin Health

Holistic skincare places great emphasis on the role of nutrition in maintaining healthy skin. A balanced diet rich in antioxidants, vitamins, minerals, and essential fatty acids is crucial for nourishing the skin from within. Incorporating foods such as fruits, vegetables, whole grains, lean proteins, and healthy fats supports collagen production, fights inflammation, and enhances skin elasticity. Moreover, avoiding processed foods, excessive sugar, and unhealthy fats helps prevent skin issues like acne and premature aging. Drinking an adequate amount of water and herbal teas also aids in flushing out toxins and maintaining hydration levels.

Natural Focused Ingredients

Holistic skincare promotes the use of natural ingredients to address various skin concerns. Essential oils such as lavender, tea tree, and chamomile possess antibacterial and soothing properties, making them effective for treating acne and inflammation. Herbal extracts like aloe vera, green tea, and calendula offer hydration, reduce redness, and promote skin healing. Incorporating gentle exfoliants like rice bran, oatmeal, or sugar scrubs help remove dead skin cells without harsh chemicals. Additionally, natural ingredients such as honey, yogurt, and turmeric can be used in spa therapies to nourish and rejuvenate the skin.

Lifestyle Modifications

Holistic skincare recognizes that certain lifestyle choices can affect skin health. Smoking, excessive alcohol consumption, and lack of sleep can contribute to skin problems such as premature aging, dullness, and uneven skin tone. Therefore, quitting smoking, moderating alcohol intake, and adopting good sleep hygiene are essential for overall skin rejuvenation.

Protecting the skin from harmful UV rays by wearing sunscreen and avoiding excessive sun exposure is also a crucial aspect of holistic skincare.

In the pursuit of healthy and beautiful skin, adopting a holistic approach is gaining popularity. By addressing the mind-body connection, focusing on nutrition, utilizing natural remedies, and making positive lifestyle changes, individuals can achieve long-lasting results. Holistic skincare not only improves the appearance of the skin but also promotes overall well-being. It emphasizes the importance of selfcare, mindfulness, and a balanced lifestyle, enabling individuals to attain a radiant complexion and boost their confidence from within. So, take a step towards holistic skincare and embrace a more comprehensive and sustainable approach to achieve the skin you desire.

Les Nouvelles Esthetiques no’97 44

Is Customisable Skincare The Future Of The Beauty Industry?

How often have you recommended a skincare product to a friend with the same skin type as yours, but not had her come back to you with the glowing reviews you expected? In fact, it is pretty likely that two people with similar skin types will have different experiences with the same product. This is because understanding your skin type is only the first step to finding the skincare routine and products that are ideal for you. There is a whole gamut of primary and secondary skin concerns to consider, coupled with your diet, fitness routine and even your sleep routine. While most beauty brands create products keeping generic skin types and concerns in mind, there’s a growing segment of those who can customise your skincare routine for you. Enter: bespoke beauty. In a world where everything from bags and shoes to bath towels can be personalised, why should your beauty routine be left behind?

When Customised, Less Really Is More

If you have problematic skin but aren’t a fan of an elaborate skincare routine, the healthy skin dream can seem like, well, a dream. This is where personalised skincare comes in. As an example, Clinique launched their service Clinique ID last year, which allows you to customise your own serum and moisturiser duo. The service has 15 different combinations that help to treat your skin’s primary concern—whether it’s dullness, unevenness, irritation or fine lines—while also providing it with moisture in your preferred texture. Neutrogena’s MaskID brings 3D printing to beauty by providing customised care to every part of your face, all in a single sheet mask. The printing technology allows every inch of the mask to be infused with a different blend, so it’s truly tailored to all your skin concerns — macro and micro.

When investing in personalised skincare, the odds are in your favour

Nothing says disappointment like a brand new skincare purchase that does nothing—or does all the wrong

things—to your skin. While experimentation is fun, especially for beauty aficionados, it comes with a price. This makes even more room for products that are tailored to your needs and lifestyle—they come with a higher guarantee of delivering on their promises.

Made-to-order Skincare Is Also Kinder To The Environment

It’s no secret that the beauty industry is one of the frontrunners when it comes to the negative impact on the environment. Among the many ways that the industry is a part of this, mass production of goods is the most prominent. Big beauty companies, especially those catering to everyday consumables, are rapidly creating products, and therefore plastic waste, every day. To put this into perspective, a study by UK-based Zero Waste Week showed that 120 billion units of packaging are produced every year by the global cosmetics industry, and most of it is not recyclable.

To counter this, Singapore-based Alcheme Skincare is taking the bespoke nature of the brand one step further by following a minimum-waste policy and relying on recyclable packaging. Since each product is made to order, it reduces wastage considerably, which is a major selling point for the brand.

The Boom Of Artificial Intelligence And The Bespoke Beauty World

Artificial intelligence (AI) is on its way to become a part of your everyday life—it is the technology behind your predictive texts on email, mobile banking and music recommendations across all your favourite apps. US-based brand Proven Skincare makes use of an AI algorithm in the beauty space to determine the best possible skincare formulas for you, keeping factors like your lifestyle, diet, skin type and even the air pollution around you in mind. In fact, according to them, all you need to get the best skin of your life is

a cleanser, a day moisturiser with SPF and a night cream. And they make use of more than 20 million dermatological data points and 4,000 scientific studies to give you the most effective skincare trio possible.

The Bespoke Beauty Names You Should Know

For serious beauty enthusiasts, currently, there is a small range of bespoke beauty labels creating everything from a single product to a whole routine that is customised for you. Dr Barbara Sturm’s cult favourite MC1 cream, which is loved by the likes of Kate Moss, infuses your own blood into the cream to promote skin regeneration. Brands like Skin Inc, Cultivate Apothecary, SkinCeuticals and Kiehl’s allow you to create your daily serum blends, and some even mix them right in front of you. Blend & Boost, another bespoke skincare label, combine its traditional apothecary roots with a unique skin coding system to create natural, customised formulas. Hop & Cotton, an Australian personalised skincare label, ditches the algorithms and has a two-way communication process. After you fill out your skin analysis and pick the products you’d like (cleanser, moisturiser, etc), they personally choose the ingredients that they believe would be ideal and run them by you before formulation. California-based Curology is out to make acne a thing of the past with a completely customised monthly routine.

Customers have always had to deal with products for which only addresses one or two of their concerns. This has lead to a culture of multi-step beauty routines with products that target each area one at a time, which can be inefficient, expensive and wasteful. While cult-favourite, single ingredient products will always have a place in our routines, a new tailormade all-in-one product might just be the way forward.

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Articles inside

Skin Icing - LNE Spa Magazine #97

4min
pages 40-41

Non-Invasive Hair Loss Therapies - LNE #97

3min
pages 28-29

DrK has a revolutionary approach towards slowing the Ageing Process - LNE #97

3min
pages 42-43

Sothys Hydra Hyaluronic Acid4

3min
pages 34-35

Controlling Aging Skin - LNE #97

4min
pages 26-27

Stem Cell Innovations

3min
pages 24-25

SKNLOGIC Retinol 0.5

3min
pages 14-15

Here's How to To Get Longevity When it Comes to Your Aesthetic Procedures

4min
pages 22-23

Esse Launches Probiotic Treatment to Optimise Results of Aesthetic Procedures - LNE #97

5min
pages 10-11

Skin Barrier Strength - LNE #97

3min
pages 20-21

Advanced Aesthetics - LNE #97

9min
pages 12-13

Emerging Trends in Cosmetic Surgery 2023 - LNE #97

3min
pages 18-19

Timeless Beauty with Thalgo's Diverse Anti-ageing Ranges.

3min
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3min
pages 16-17

Exploring the Emerging Trends in Skincare Peptides - LNE #97

3min
pages 6-7

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3min
pages 48-49

spa therapies Holistic Approaches to Aesthetic Skincare

2min
pages 46-47

Anti-Aging Foods to Support Your 40s-and-Beyond Body

4min
pages 44-45

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2min
pages 42-43

Skin Icing: How This Chilly Facial Beautifies Skin

3min
pages 40-41

spa therapies Mesotherapy: Exploring New Trends and Proven Effectiveness

2min
pages 38-39

innovation Introducing Monteil

2min
pages 36-37

Sothys Hydra Hyaluronic Acid4

1min
pages 34-35

DNA Testing To Customise Your Skincare Products

4min
pages 32-33

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2min
pages 30-31

Non-Invasive Hair Loss Therapies: An Emerging Aesthetic Trend

2min
pages 28-29

Controlling Aging Skin

3min
pages 26-27

Stem Cell Innovations

1min
pages 24-25

Here's How To Get Longevity When It Comes To Your Aesthetic Procedures

2min
pages 22-23

spa therapies Skin Barrier Strength

1min
pages 20-21

innovation Emerging Trends in Cosmetic Surgery for 2023

2min
pages 18-19

The Rise of Multitasking Skincare Products

2min
pages 16-17

SKNLOGIC Retinol 0.5

2min
pages 14-15

spa therapies

5min
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Advanced Aesthetics

1min
page 12

Esse Launches World-first Probiotic Treatment To Optimise Results Of Aesthetic Procedures

3min
pages 10-11

Timeless Beauty with Thalgo's Diverse Anti-Ageing Ranges

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Exploring the Emerging Trends in Skincare Peptides

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spa therapies

6min
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