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Port Townsend Olympic Peninsula

Getaway www.ptleader.com

escape to hike, bike, ďŹ sh, sail, shop, dine and just relax.


WHALE TOURS And Other Adventures

OUR 23RD YEAR!

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See orcas in the wild and tour the San Juan Islands. Half day and all day cruises available from Port Townsend. Group charters available, dinner parties, weddings, reunions, celebrations of life.

P.S. Express

227 Jackson Street, Port Townsend, WA 98368

 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

INFORMATION & RESERVATIONS:

360•385•5288

Website: pugetsoundexpress.com


“Give me a quadruple, grande, blended mixed mocha, with soy, no whip...�

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Relocate, start a new business, grow a green industry; enjoy free parking and have your staff meeting on the beach. Jefferson County is for you!

Call WSU TEAM Jefferson today. 360-379-5610 www.wsujefferson.com Funded by Washington Community Trade & Economic Development Jefferson County and Washington State University Extension

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 


INDEX Art everywhere ...........................26-28 Biking the peninsula ........................ 12 Calendar of events ..................... 66-80 Centrum .......................................... 30 Farmers market ................................ 20 Help, quick ....................................... 88 Hike the Olympics ................ 16-18, 44 Historic homes ........................... 40-42 Hood Canal ................................50-52 Hotels and inns ........................... 10-11 Index to advertisers .........................90 Local point of view .................... 84-86 Maps............................8, 40, 46-47, 54 Marine life ....................................... 82 Military ............................................ 38 Museums .......................................... 36 Parks............................................56-58 Port Ludlow ..................................... 62 Port Townsend .................................46 Restaurants .................................22-24 Shopping ..................................... 32-34 Tri-Area ...........................................60 Transportation.................................... 6 Treasure hunt ...................................64 Water and more ................................ 14 West End ......................................... 48 On the Cover

‘Morning Coffee on Tyler and Water Streets’ “Morning Coffee on Tyler and Water Streets” is the title of the cover art by Michael Hale, a native of the Northwest. Hale has been an architectural illustrator and worked in Los Angeles as a scenic artist for the movie industry. Hale’s work can be seen on his colorful, oversized postcards of Port Townsend. Paintings can be viewed on his website at MichaelHaleGallery. com or halespace.com. The cover art is from the 2008 Port Townsend Gatheringplace Calendar. Gatheringplace is a private nonprofit organization that provides activities for people with disabilities. Check out gpppt.org for information. Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 226 Adams St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 www.ptleader.com 360-385-2900 news@ptleader.com or ads@ptleader.com © April 30, 2008 PT Leader Special Section Editor: Allison Arthur Production Lead: Marian Roh

Enjoy your getaway Space and time – those are fishing. Or more specifically, flyfishtwo things you’ll find plenty of ing. Veteran outdoor writer Doug Rose, when you come to the Olympic who has written three books about fly Peninsula and Port Townsend. fishing, reels you in to his world on We’re only a hop, skip, ferry ride the West End of Jefferson County, a or scenic drive away from anywhere county that stretches all the way from in western Washington. Get here, then Puget Sound to the Pacific Ocean. slow down. Take your time. Get to Back in Port Townsend, Will know us and we’ll get to know you. O’Donnell, who has had a hand in a Life here is intimate, connected. number of farming ventures, includAnd we’ve tried to share some of ing creating a cheese-making busithat with you in this publication. ness from scratch, gives you a tour of We’ve asked local people who are ex- the Port Townsend Farmers Market, perts in their fields to tell you about bik- the largest farmers market west of ing, hiking, fishing, the arts, the farmers Pike Place Market in Seattle. market, shopping, Window shopwhich parks are ping for something great, a little about a bit offbeat? Mari restaurants and Mullen, executive where to stay, and director of the Port what it means to Townsend Main be a “local.” Street Program So take a little since 1998, tells bike ride with Jon about shopping in Muellner, who Port Townsend, has ridden Pariswhich boasts two Brest-Paris twice historic districts. and knows his way Culture, arts, around the Olympic you ask? Of course. Peninsula just as Writers from the well – if not better. Port Townsend & Rather go Jefferson County hiking than Leader tell you pedaling? Local about the many dentist Dr. Henry interesting art There are plenty of places to get out and hike on the Nichols and his galleries, restauOlympic Peninsula. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan wife, Karen, have rants and hotels hiked in Olympic they’ve enjoyed, National Park for 30 years. They and songster Lauren Sheehan inhelp you navigate the enchanted troduces you to Centrum. wilderness they’ve explored. Patrick Sullivan, Leader manSaltwater catch your fancy? No one aging editor, lets you know knows what’s out there on the what it means to be a local. water and how to enjoy it So welcome to our world. We better than Ross Anderson, know you’ll find space here and a Pulitzer Prize-winning hope you’ll take some time to find a former Seattle Times good beach, enjoy some good food, reporter who keeps his learn something new, and feel re67-year-old Monk cruiser freshed after your getaway. here in Port Townsend. And of course, you’re alAh, then there’s ways welcome to come back.

4 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


Bring your real estate dreams home...

Teren M ac Leod

2006 “Realtor of the Year”

360-344-3944 teren@ptproperty.com

www.ptproperty.com Re/Max First, Port Townsend

Artists of all ages love Belltower Art! Come check out all the great stuff!

1046 Water St. Open Daily 385-2929 www.belltowerart.com

SECRET GARDENS NURSERY & LANDSCAPE SUPPLY

A Locally Owned Family Business

Huge Selection of Bare -Root Trees, Shrubs & Berries Huge Selection of Frost Resistant Pottery Fountains & Statues Bark, Soil & Rock Sold by the Yard Irrigation Supplies Low Voltage Lighting Spring Bulbs Potted & Ready for Planting

13570 Airport Cutoff Rd. • Monday-Saturday 9-5 • Sunday 11-5 • 360.379.3900

OLYMPIC VIEW TERRACE Port Townsend Condominiums

Landscape Design & Irrigation Installation Services available.

1 and 2 Bedroom Units $139,000 to $169,000 olympicviewterrace.com

Richard Hild 360-531-1889 PORT

TOWNSEND

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 


The ferry Steilacoom II provides service between downtown Port Townsend and Keystone Harbor on Whidbey Island. You can leave your car on either side and walk or bike. Photo by Barney Burke

Plenty of ways to get here TOWNSEND-WHIDBEY Vehicle limits: Reservations are recommended for passenger cars on weekends and required for large vehicles at all times. No more than four semi trucks plus four other vehicles in excess of 6,000 pounds (i.e., RVs and some SUVs and pickup trucks) can be taken at one time. Call Washington State Ferries at 888-808-7977 to make a reservation. Park and ride: You can leave your car near the Whidbey Island ferry terminal or in the Port Townsend Park-and-Ride. Schedule (limited to one ferry until further notice): Leave Port Townsend: 6:30 a.m., 8 a.m., 9:30 a.m., 11:15 a.m., 12:45 p.m., 2:15 p.m., 3:45 p.m., 5:15 p.m., 6:45 p.m., 8:30 p.m. Leave Keystone: 7:15 a.m., 8:45 a.m., 10:15 a.m., noon, 1:30 p.m., 3 p.m., 4:30 p.m., 6 p.m., 7:30 p.m., 9:15 p.m. Schedule updates: There will be two more round trips daily from May 19 to Sept. 8, but that schedule has not yet been announced. Updated schedule information is posted at www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries or call 888-808-7977 (in Washington and British Columbia) or 206-464-6400.

We’ve got to be honest with you: During summer 2008, there will be only one ferry instead of the usual two connecting Port Townsend and Keystone on Whidbey Island. And although Washington State Ferries is extending its hours of operation this summer, there will be only 12 rather than 15 round trips per day, and our temporary ferry is smaller than our old ferries. Ferries aren’t the only way to get here. You can drive here via the Hood Canal Bridge or the Tacoma Narrows Bridge, or via U.S. 101, the highway that circles the Olympic Peninsula. Or come via the Black Ball ferry that runs between Victoria, B.C., and Port Angeles. And remember: If it hadn’t been so difficult to get here during the last century, there wouldn’t be much left of what was once called the “Key City.” Once a bawdy seaport, Port Townsend has been preserved by benign neglect after it went boom and bust in the 1890s.

6 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

If there had been an interstate freeway within spitting distance of town, well, we might not be such an interesting place to visit, architecturally or otherwise. When you step off the downtown ferry, you’ll be within walking distance of our two National Register Historic Districts, which contain such landmarks as the 1893 Customs House, 1892 Courthouse, and 1891 City Hall, which houses the Jefferson County Historical Society Museum. If you’re taking the ferry, there’s never a problem getting on if you’re walking or StORy By

Barney Burke Barney Burke started visiting the Olympic Peninsula in the 1990s to research family roots. An awardwinning writer and photographer, he’s also a frequent ferry traveler, sometimes walking, sometimes bicycling, and sometimes cruising in a ’57 Thunderbird. He covers ferry issues for The Leader.

bicycling. You can leave your car on Whidbey Island and take the ferry here, or you can park at our park-and-ride and take the ferry there. Many of Port Townsend’s accommodations aren’t far from the ferry dock. Others are willing to give you a lift, or you can take a taxi or Jefferson Transit. You can also rent a bike; Port Townsend covers about 2 square miles, though it’s a bit hilly in places. The ferry terminal at Keystone (Whidbey Island), though adjacent to historic Fort Casey State Park, is 9 miles from the nearest town: the charming arts community of Coupeville. It’s an easy bike ride and reasonable bus ride (Island Transit: 800-240-8747). If you’re taking your car on the Port Townsend-Keystone ferry in either direction, you should get in line early on Fridays and Sundays, the busiest days. Ferries can sell out by midday, so reservations are advised. Also note that space for RVs and trucks is limited on our temporary ferry, Steilacoom II. If your vehicle weighs more than 6,000 pounds (such as many pickups and SUVs), you are advised to call Washington State Ferries in advance to make arrangements. But don’t let our limited ferry service this year scare you off. After all, thousands of people travel to Mackinac Island, Mich., every year, and cars are prohibited there. Although our ferry service is a little tight this year, you’ve got plenty of other ways to get here – and we’ll make you glad you did.


Port Townsend Golf Club In the heart of Port Townsend, we offer a great opportunity to enjoy a friendly round of golf during your getaway to this historic town.

Port Townsend’s Most Creative Store for Kids! Can I try those?

Mike Early PGA Director of Golf

1948 Blaine St.

360-385-4547 porttownsendgolf.com

Culture & Craft of the Celtic Isles

Come Sailing on the Schooner Alcyone

1046 Water St. Open Daily 385-2929 www.belltowerart.com

A Locally Owned Family Business

The Cherry Blossom RECYCLED WOMEN’S & CHILDREN’S CLOTHING

Jewelry & Gifts Wedding Rings Music & Books Knitwear 929 Water StreetPort Townsend 360-385-3317 www.wanderingangus.com

FUN FURNITURE & KNICKKNACKS Family or Adult Full Boat Charters & Youth Sail Training Trips

360 531-0356

or schooneralcyone.com

NEW TRENDY JEWELRY Mon-Sat 11-6 • Sun 12-6 2203 Sims Way, PT 360-379-0853

Relax and Enjoy the Bus! Follow the signs to the Park & Ride near Safeway and enjoy our biodiesel-powered buses and friendly drivers as you tour Port Townsend and Jefferson County. Parking is free and secure, and with your paid bus fare you get an all-day pass to explore all the wonderful sights.

360 385-4777

Call for information or check our website for maps and schedules.

www.jeffersontransit.com

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 


Port Townsend

★ Port townsend to Bellingham ............70 mi. Brinnon ..................34 mi. Forks ....................102 mi. Kalaloch ...............137 mi. Kingston.................33 mi. Mt. Vernon .............48 mi. Port Angeles...........46 mi. Olympia .................92 mi. Bainbridge .............50 mi. Sequim...................35 mi. Tacoma...................80 mi.

Terrain Map courtesy of the Washington State Department of Ecology

Getaway to Port Townsend It’s easy to get to Port Townsend and Jefferson County, by land, sea and even air. Although state vehicle ferry service will be limited in summer 2008, that’s only one of six ways to drive here, starting from:

SEATTLE: Take either the downtown Seattle ferry to Bainbridge Island to State Route 305 to SR 3 to the Hood Canal Bridge or the Edmonds ferry to Kingston and then SR 104 to the bridge. OLYMPIC NATIONAL PARK: Head From the bridge, take SR 104 to SR 19 and then east from Port Angeles on US 101. SR 20. VICTORIA, B.C.: Drive onto the Black Ball TACOMA: Take the Tacoma Narrows Bridge ferry Coho (360-457-4491, www.cohoferry.com) (SR 16) and then SR 3 north to the Hood Canal to Port Angeles and go east on US 101. Bridge. Note: It’s free to get here, but $3 to cross WHIDBEY ISLAND: Take the Port the Tacoma Narrows Bridge heading south. Townsend ferry from Keystone Harbor, but note OLYMPIA: Take U.S. Highway 101 and enjoy that vehicle and passenger capacity is limited in a scenic drive along Hood Canal through Brinnon 2008. Plan ahead! and Quilcene. 8 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Port of Port townsend offers boaters moorage and fuel: www.portofpt.com ............................................... 800-228-2803 Jefferson County International airport is 6 miles south of Port Townsend: www.portofpt. com .................................................360-385-2323 Jefferson transit offers bus and park-and-ride service in Port Townsend: www.jeffersontransit. com............................................... 360-385-4777 Island transit serves Whidbey Island: www. islandtransit.org............................ 800-240-8747 Peninsula taxi serves Port Townsend ............................................... 360-385-1872

ADDITIONAL TRANSPORTATION CONTACTS: washington State Department of transportation gives traffic and bridge conditions: www.wsdot.wa.gov ....................................511 or 800-419-9085

Puget Sound express offers passenger-only service to Friday Harbor (San Juan Islands) from March 22 through first week of October: www. pugetsoundexpress.com ............. 360-385-5288 Victoria express offers passenger-only service between Victoria and Port Angeles from May 24 to Sept. 21: www.victoriaexpress.com .............................................. 360-452-8088

washington State Ferries provides vehicle and passenger service. Check the schedule for options, www.wsdot.wa.gov/ferries Goodwin aviation offers flights to and from ............................................... 888-808-7977 Sea-Tac International.................... 360-531-1727


Get your buzz on, too!

Far Reaches Farm Exceptional Plants

Call or see our website for open days:

www.farreachesfarm.com

Port Townsend’s only fully organic espresso, just down from the ferry dock!

1046 Water St. Open Daily 385-2929 www.belltowerart.com

385-5114 • 1818 Hastings Ave. • Port Townsend Also open by appointment

SPRING VALLEY COTTAGES

See us to find your GETAWAY Home!

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• PORT TOWNSEND

10 Cottages • Built Green • Commons Priced from $210,000 to $389,000. Please call for a tour. Please visit our website: www.kimballlandis.com email umatilla@olypen.com

360.385.4115 800.869.7834

Offered by Kimball & Landis LLC • Architect Ross Chapin

Please contact Cynthia Landis 360-301-4896 Agents welcome 360-385-3352 Financing provided by Frontier Bank

www.johnlscott.com

MEMBER FDIC

THE GREEN

A Locally Owned Family Business

EYESHADE established in 1970

IKING

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China • Gourmet • Jewelry • Gifts

1-888-785-3838

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720 Water Street, Port Townsend • 385-3838

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 


Manresa Castle, built by town father Charles Eisenbeis in 1892, overlooks Port Townsend. Photo by Patrick Sullivan

the ferries. And if you’re a history buff, you might want to stay at the Swan Hotel, which has several cozy cabins reminiscent of the, ahem, “cribs” where “soiled doves” plied their trade when Port Townsend was a bawdy Victorian seaport.

Hotels and motels

Staying the night in Port Townsend WE WANT A ROOM WITH A VIEW To find a hotel, go to www.ptguide.com, which also has information on state and national parks in the area. Or, call the Port Townsend Visitor Information Center at 360-385-2722. As of June, it will be located at the Haines Place Park-and-Ride, just across the street from Safeway, and there’s a local hotel phone there.

Some of the locals have threatened to chase me out of town with sticks if I write one more story about how romantic it is to spend the night in Port Townsend, so I won’t mention it. Nonetheless, Port Townsend isn’t called the “Bed & Breakfast Capital of the Northwest” for nothin’. Speaking for myself, I can

take or leave the extra pillows – what I love is the history and the architecture. The Ann Starrett Mansion Victorian Boutique Hotel (1889) has an astounding circular staircase beneath a set of frescoes depicting the home’s namesake in all four seasons. At The James House (1889), you can sit on the front porch and watch

Several of our hotels are within walking distance of the downtown ferry terminal, such as the Tides Inn, where the love scene in the movie “An Officer and a Gentleman” was filmed. The Belmont and the Palace Hotel are just down Water Street in downtown. And not far away are newer hotels such as the Harborside, Aladdin Motor Inn and the Port Townsend Inn. Up on Castle Hill is the famed – some say haunted – Manresa Castle, built by town father Charles Eisenbeis in 1892. Outside of Port Townsend, the Port Ludlow Inn and Inn at Port Hadlock offer sweeping water views and boating options. Staying isn’t that expensive, unless you get to reading the real estate ads and find your heart shanghaied to a new life in the Key City.

Camping

But if you are on a budget, bring your tent or RV. Campsites for both are available at the Jefferson County Fairgrounds and Fort Worden State Park. RVs can also stay Port Ludlow Inn offers sweeping water views and boating options. Photo by Barney Burke 10 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


at the Port of Port Townsend’s Hudson Point or at the local Elks Lodge (members only). Nearby, Old Fort Townsend State Park offers tent camping but no reservations. Please note that if you’re bringing an RV or trailer, you might get delayed because of load limits on the Port Townsend-Keystone route in 2008. Call Washington State Ferries at 888-808-7977 for updated information.

Ferry pickup

If you decide to leave your car on Whidbey Island and walk or bike over on the ferry, chances are your hotel will be happy to come down and give you a lift. “We’ve done that many times,” said John Eissinger, co-owner of the Blue Gull Inn B&B. “It’s

good customer service. “I think we have to bend over backwards and show a little extra courtesy,” said Eissinger of lodging owners who want to make sure

their guests aren’t inconvenienced by the ferry system. “I don’t know of anyone who would turn you down.”

❚ By Barney Burke

Harborside inn www.harborside-inn.com

marina on one side . . . heated pool on the other! spectacular views on the waterfront. 330 benedict st., Port townsend, Wa 98368 100% non-smoking

360-385-7909

1-800-942-5960

Fort Worden State Park rents out circa 1902 homes on Officers’ Row. The former Army base is a favorite venue for family reunions, and parts of “An Officer and a Gentleman” were filmed here. Photo by Barney Burke

63 rooms that feature: Walk to historic doWntoWn, golf course, tennis courts, ferry

Private Patio overlooking Waterfront comPlimentary continental breakfast conference, meeting room refrigerators, microWaves, cable tv neW, quiet, clean accommodations free Wifi in all rooms The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 11


Port Townsend is bike friendly, and there are plenty of resources for help in the area. Photo by Barney Burke

Pedal power on the peninsula MAP OUT A PATH The Olympic Peninsula has a wealth of resources for bicyclists. Check out these organizations and events. Port townsend Bicycle association www.ptbikes.org Quimper trails association www.quimpertrails.org Rhody Bike tour www.ptbikes.org/rhodytour Fort2Fort Bike Ride www.fort2fortride.org Maps of where to bicycle on the Olympic Peninsula, www.ptbikes.org/maps

Cycling in East Jefferson regional transportation groups County is a magical experience, to provide safe, efficient travel whether on a pleasant road ride by bicycle. In-town bicycle through the countryside with lanes are well marked, and friends or a challenging single- traffic signals react to bicycles. track ride through the forest. Quimper Trails Association In Port Townsend, you’ll maintains miles of mountain notice cyclists out in almost any bike trails including Gibbs weather, commuting to school Lake, the Larry Scott Trail and or work, running errands or just the ever-growing east end of enjoying the area on quiet rural the Olympic Discovery Trail. roads along farms and forests Weekly club rides for onwith views of StORy By the Olympic Mountains Jon or Admiralty Muellner Inlet and the waters that Jon Muellner enjoys surround us. riding bikes very long distances, around the The local clock in any weather, and exploring the bike club, Port backroads of the Olympic Peninsula and Townsend beyond. He’s ridden Paris-Brest-Paris Bicycle twice, toured from Seattle to Fairbanks, Association, Alaska, and enjoys riding with his works didaughter Peri and wife Carrie. When he’s rectly with not riding, he’s telemark skiing. Read

1 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

about him at www.quimpertrails.org.

and off-road cyclists welcome visitors, and yearly cycling events in the area provide a nice getaway. The annual Rhody Bike Tour in May attracts many cyclists from around the Pacific Northwest and beyond. The Fort2Fort Bike Ride in June visits a number of the old military forts nearby. Both rides have family-friendly options. For the touring cyclist, this area is a great beginning to a Pacific Coast tour or the start or finish point to a cross-country trip. Campgrounds have biker/hiker areas for overnight stays, or enjoy a local accommodation and a fine meal at one of our many restaurants. Local bike shops providing equipment and repair services include PT Cyclery downtown, Williwaw Cycles in Glen Cove and Genetic Link in Port Hadlock. Excellent bike maps of the North Olympic Peninsula can be picked up at visitor centers, bike shops and online at www.ptbikes.org/maps. You’ll find these invaluable for planning a day or weeklong cycling vacation. Bring the kids and the dog, and bike around the peninsula in any kind of weather. Photo by Celeste Flint


BEACH GETAWAY ON OAK BAY

Your getaway will be all you dreamed it can be, when you stay in this comfortable, 2 bedroom home on the beach in Oak Bay on Washington’s beautiful Olympic Peninsula. 101 Oak Road, Port Hadlock, WA 98339 360.437.2532 • snyderl@olypen.com

beachgetawayonoakbay.com Listed in “Best Places Northwest”

An extraordinary inn offering the elegance of a historic mansion with the warmth of a gracious home. 800-385-1238 www.jameshouse.com

Choose your pleasure ...

Victorian Hotel

714 Washington St. Port Townsend

The Historic Bishop Victorian Hotel

Located in the Downtown Historic District, the Bishop is newly restored in the European Tradition. Our landscaped Secret Gardens and lawns are a perfect setting for a wedding or reception. Listed in Special Places of WA for “Romance, Adventure and Gourmet Cuisine.” 16 Victorian Suites ◆◆◆ AAA “Secret Victorian Gardens” • Conference and Retreat Facilities Children Welcome • Cable TV, Phones, Laptop Jacks Fireplaces & Soaking Tubs • High Speed Internet E-Service

(800) 824-4738 • (360) 385-6122

Monroe & Water Sts. Next to Hudson Point Marina The Swan Hotel & Cottages Overlooking the Hudson Point Marina in the Downtown Historic District, The Swan is newly renovated to emphasize the marine tradition of Admiralty Inlet. 13 Lovely Hotel Units & Cottages ◆◆ AA The Two Story Penthouse • Conference and Retreat Facilities Cable TV, Phones, Laptop Jacks • Dramatic View Decks Handicap Access • Fireplaces & Jacuzzi Tubs High-speed Internet E-Service

(800) 824-4738 • (360) 385-1718

Make your reservation online! www.rainshadowproperties.com

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 13


The 40-foot Sparkle has a reputation as a racing “boat to beat.” Homeported in Port Townsend since 1997, she has an all-female crew proudly known as the “Sparkle Girls.” Photo by Elizabeth T. Becker

Work, live, play on the water GET ON THE WATER Whether it’s boating, rowing or whale watching you desire, these organizations can help. Northwest Maritime Center & wooden Boat Foundation, 380 Jefferson St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-3628 www.woodenboat.org

I was lured here to Port Townsend by lots of good things – bookstores and brewpubs, locally owned businesses and lots of open minds, smart people and small town values. But most important, I had to live in a town with an ocean, a very small town on a very large ocean. If it is nothing else, Port Townsend is a port, the gate-

Port of Port townsend Moorage Office, 2601 Washington St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-2355 Port townsend Sailing association, www.ptsail.org Rat Island Rowing and Sculling Club, 499 Water St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 www.ratislandrowing.citymax.com

The Wooden Boat Festival showcases the work of craftsmen and features boats of all sizes. The festival is in September. BurkeDigitalPix.com 14 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

way to Puget Sound. We’re surrounded by saltwater, a peninsula on a peninsula. If we didn’t have a port, we wouldn’t have much excuse for being here at all. Walk any direction from Water Street and eventually you’ll get your feet wet. Lots of people here have made a living on the ocean – as fishermen, marine scientists, shipwrights and riggers. But

far more of us play out there. We paddle kayaks, pursue the elusive king salmon or sail grand yachts. If I don’t own a boat, then the neighbor does, and we’re liable to go fishing one day. Visitors, it turns out, have much the same attitude: Nice town, but how do I get out on the water? There are lots of options: One can take a ferry ride to Whidbey, rent a kayak or a small sailboat at Hudson Point, cast your own salmon fly, or buy a berth on the next cruise of the schooner Martha. However you get there, you will relearn the eternal lesson: Boats are the perfect vehicle for escaping. We’ve been doing it here for some 150 years. The ocean flows through our civic bloodstream. It regulates our weather and our travel times. We live by our tide tables. I suppose somebody out there has researched why people like us insist on living next to the sea. It has something to do with standing on the edge of something, gazing out across an ocean. Port Townsend is an excellent place to do that. StORy By

Ross Anderson Ross Anderson is a Pulitzer Prizewinning writer, based in Port Townsend, where he focuses his work on maritime and environmental issues. Previously, he worked 30 years for The Seattle Times. He keeps his 67-year-old Monk cruiser and writes his On The Waterfront column for The Leader. Check his blogsite at www.rossink.com.


Where hip meets luxury... with a splash of history

• Waterfront Dining, Northwest Cuisine • Spectacular Views of Townsend Bay • State of the Art Meeting & Conference Facilities • A World Class, Three Story Art Gallery • Open daily, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner • Reservations recommended New Guestrooms & Suites p Nemo’s Restaurant p The Art Mine Gallery p Vitality Day Spa p 165-Slip Marina 310 Hadlock Bay Road, Port Hadlock, Washington • 360.385.7030 www.innatporthadlock.com • www.theartmine.com

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SUITE AT THE FOUNTAIN Gracious • Private

The finest private accommodation in the heart of Port Townsend’s Historic District. The 1000 sq. ft. suite is sheltered by woods, but steps away from • 2 luxurious bedrooms, sleeps 6 restaurants, shops, www.fountainsuite.com • Comfortable living room art galleries and the info@fountainsuite.com • Wood-burning fire place incomparable TV, Wi-Fi, CD, DVD (360) 643-1370 •• Satellite Full kitchen, outdoor grill, deck Rose Theatre.

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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 15


BE PREPARED Being prepared with the 10 essentials (map, compass, flashlight, extra food, extra clothing, raingear, first aid supplies, pocket knife, waterproof matches, firestarter) plus route-finding skills can make the difference between an enjoyable trip and a rescue party. There are several hikers’ guides available at local shops that contain valuable information, trail descriptions and suggested routes. Trail permits are available at ranger stations across the Olympic Peninsula. Courses offered by the Mountaineers, Olympic Mountain Rescue, Peninsula Wilderness Club and various mountain guide companies can teach or enhance wilderness survival skills. (For more information on the Olympic Mountains, see page 44.)

Hiking for the view In the last three decades we have hiked many of the trails and climbed the tallest of the peaks of Olympic National Park, experiencing its verdant mysterious valleys, expansive glaciated high country and the incredible diversity of ecosystems that connect the two. The park offers many diverse experiences for those willing to hike her intricate lacework of trails. The easiest trails are short, paved nature walks at Hurricane Ridge and the Hoh Rain Forest. The many snowfield- and glacier-fed river valleys that radiate

16 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

like spokes from the park’s central core offer easy to moderate hiking for day hikes or multi-day trips. Unique to the Olympics StORy By

Dr. Henry and Karen Nichols Dr. Henry and Karen Nichols live on Marrowstone Island and have a dental practice in Port Townsend. The two have lived and worked in the Port Townsend area for 30 years and realize how privileged they are to have this enchanted wilderness called Olympic National Park only a short drive from their front door.

Dr. Henry and Karen Nichols pause to enjoy a moment above Royal Basin in the Olympics. Photo courtesy of Dr. Henry and Karen Nichols

is the seashore wilderness that preserves much of the peninsula’s west coast. The hiking here is generally easy, with short, steep sections required to traverse the multitude of magnificent headlands that dominate this coastal ecosystem. Olympic National Park is largely a secretive, intimate wilderness that does not give up her secrets easily. Many of the trails start at elevations not much above sea level, then climb steeply through densely timbered mountainsides, eventually revealing ● ● ● Continued on page 18


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Jasper. When we reached the Olympic Peninsula, we were frustrated because there were no roads that crossed Olympic National Park. We part of the adjoining Olympic visited Hurricane Ridge and National Forest, can be accu- the Hoh Rain Forest, but we realized that this limrately defined as wilderness; ited access gave us only a thus, when hikers shoulder glimpse of what Olympic their packs and start up the trail, they can expect the mag- National Park had to offer. Now, Karen and I know ic of the wild to close around the Olympic wilderness is an them, invoking its spell of incredible example of what magnetic enchantment.” this area was like before it I remember when a friend was settled. It serves as a and I graduated from colhome for countless interdelege and decided to take a pendent species – some of road trip. Our agenda was which are indigenous only to to visit as many national the Olympics – that depend parks in the western United on the delicate preservation States and Canada as we of its wilderness status. could that summer, before This Olympic wilderness he entered the workforce and deserves and demands our I entered graduate school. respect for its survival, and I remember enjoying the we just as delicately depend grandeur and diversity of our on it for our survival. national treasures, mostly As Henry David Thoreau from the seat of a Volkswagen stated, “In wilderness lies the van with an occasional preservation of the world.” hike to stretch our legs. Remember to take only Our drive took us through pictures, leave only footBryce, Zion, Grand Teton, prints and be good stewards Yellowstone, Glacier, of this precious jewel. Waterton Lakes, Banff and Unexpected events can happen on journeys in Olympic National Park, like this butterfly that landed on a rope. Photos courtesy of Dr. Henry and Karen Nichols

Hike ● ● ● Continued from page 16

an expansive treeless subalpine ecosystem with delicate wildflowers surrounded by rocky, formidable peaks. Crowning this ecosystem is the third most glaciated area in the lower 48, exceeded only by Mount Rainier and Mount Baker. Most of the trails that access these areas are strenuous, but the rewards are well worth the effort. A glorious vista only revealed when finally rounding that last switchback, and meteor showers viewed from the warmth of a sleeping bag in crisp fall darkness are just two of the memories that will last a lifetime for Karen and me. For the more adventurous, the Olympics offer breathtaking high alpine traverses and innumerable peaks to climb. Forty-three of the peaks rise above 7,000 feet; the tallest is Mount Olympus at 7,965 feet. By taking advantage of these high mountain ridges

and numerous peaks, one can traverse the Olympics from north to south while rarely walking on a trail. For this off-trail adventuring, one must be proficient at route finding and GPS navigation. Any wilderness experience contains its spiritual and physical gifts by being remote from our everyday lives. Thus one must respect the inherent danger that this implies. Something as simple as a twisted ankle on a day hike can lead to hypothermia and potential death if the weather changes unexpectedly. Karen and I once had to spend an unexpected and uncomfortable subfreezing night in the Olympics when a dense ground fog suddenly sabotaged our visibility on the return from a day hike. So be prepared. Bring maps. As Robert L. Wood writes in the introduction of his book Trail Guide to Olympic National Park, “Most of the area enclosed within the Olympic National Park, plus Mountain goats are found throughout the Olympics.

18 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 1


Children enjoy making pasta at the Tarboo Valley Pasta booth at the Port Townsend Farmers Market. Photo by Allison Arthur

Parade on down to the market  DAYS A WEEK, FARMERS MARKET the Port townsend Farmers Market is open from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. on Saturdays from May 3 to Nov. 15 at Tyler and Lawrence in Uptown. Wednesday markets are from 3:30 to 6:30 p.m. starting June 11 and continuing through Sept. 24 at Polk and Lawrence in Uptown. Special market events celebrate the strawberry season and the pumpkin harvest, among others. Check out www.ptfarmersmarket.org or call Wendie Dyson, market manager, at 360-379-9098.

When I moved to Port Townsend a decade ago, there seemed to be a parade and a festival for every weekend of the year. People seem to like to get together in the street and celebrate. It’s no surprise then that Port Townsend has one of the state’s liveliest farmers markets. Every Saturday from 9:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. May through November, Tyler Street is closed Uptown and people gather to buy local produce, artisan foods and handmade crafts, and to hear music, talk with friends and generally hang out. Sometimes they are all there at the same time, but usually the people come in waves, with a bulge toward the middle. The middle is where you’ll find my business, Mt.

0 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Townsend Creamery, if you’re looking for handmade artisan cows’ milk cheeses. Turn to the left to find organic artisan bread from Pane D’Amore. Watch out for the musicians – they just started marching through the crowd! Another impromptu parade. See what I mean? If you are looking for fresh organic produce, you’ll find a variety of local growers with everything from Bibb lettuce to black kale to beets as big as big as your head, StORy By

Will O’Donnell Will O’Donnell is a longtime market vendor and one-time board member of the Port Townsend Farmers Market. He and his wife, Kate Dean, created or cocreated three successful ventures: Old Tarboo Farm, Finnriver Farm, and Mt. Townsend Creamery, all still (proudly) in attendance at the Saturday market.

as well as heirloom tomatoes, fingerling potatoes and squash of every pedigree. Dharma Ridge offers a wide variety and excellent quality, and Corona Farms, Frog Hill, Red Dog, Wildwood, and Old Tarboo all bring excellent produce every weekend. Down at the other end of the market is Nash’s Farm, with its world-famous Dungeness Valley carrots and its large wagon of vegetables. Visiting the Northwest? Try the berries. In mid to late summer, the Northwest produces some of the tastiest berries to be found. Blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, blackberries, marionberries, acacia berries. Oh, and the salmon! Maybe you’ve had salmon. Maybe you’ve had good salmon. If you’ve not been to the Port Townsend Farmers Market, you’ve not had Rick’s salmon. Cape Cleare sells line-caught, flash-frozen wild salmon of the most exquisite quality. Buy them whole or cut into steaks, always frozen (ask him why), or get a grilled filet or salmon sandwich cooked on the salmon cart. Espresso? Of course. And lavender lotions, goat milk soaps, tinkered silver, pastoral pictures, nursery plants, crepes, pastries – all set in the middle of Port Townsend’s historic Uptown district next to the community center, with its large lawn, picnic benches and children’s playground. It’s something to celebrate. So parade on down. I hope to see you at the market.


Jefferson County

Parks & Recreation Serving the Community

THE

BELMONT Built 1885

Port Townsend’s only remaining 1880s waterfront restaurant and saloon www.countyrec.com

Picnics. Camping. Fishing. Trails. Beaches. Sport fields. TRY OUR CAMPGROUNDS! Chimacum Park

8 acres, 8 campsites, water, shelter

Lake Leland Campground

2.6 acres, 22 campsites, boat ramp, beach, fishing on Leland Valley Road

Quilcene Community Center & Campground

4 acres, community center, tennis courts, shelter, playground

Upper Oak Bay Campground

5 acres, 24 campsites with hookup, playground, Cleveland St. off Oak Bay Road

Lower Oak Bay Campground

25 acres, 10 campsites, boat ramp, beach, picnic sites

Beausite Lake 30 acres, conference facility on West Valley Road

Bob Bates Field Little League fields on Chimacum Road

Broad Spit Park

43.8 acres, natural state, boat access only, Bolton Peninsula

Courthouse Park

1 acre, basketball, tennis courts, open field

East Beach Park (Marrowstone Island) .6 acres, beach, shelter, picnic site

Gibbs Lake Park

348 acres, fishing, swimming, ropes course, hiking, equestrian, on West Valley Road

H.J. Carroll Park

40 acres, athletic fields, shelters, restroom, basketball, bmx, nature trail

Hicks/Shine Park

Boat ramp, beach, picnic near Hood Canal Bridge

Indian Island parks

22 acres, 8 picnic tables, beach, shelter, trails

Irondale Neighborhood Park

2 acres, athletic fields, basketball, playground, picnic area

Larry Scott Memorial Trail

3.5 miles of trail from PT to Cape George

Memorial Field

4 acres, stadium, athletic fields, downtown PT

FRESH NORTHWEST SEAFOOD WATERFRONT DINING COCKTAIL LOUNGE HISTORIC HOTEL ROOMS

North Beach Park

Northwest

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Trailhead Park

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Jefferson County Recreation Center in Port Townsend Basketball court, games room, open rooms at 620 Tyler St., PT

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www.thebelmontpt.com The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 21


Eating across the peninsula Romance. Ambiance. Hats. Music. Comedy. The North Olympic Peninsula dining experience is about far more than mere sustenance. Just ask the folks running the uber-popular Ajax Café in Port Hadlock’s waterfront district. There, diners are given an option of plucking a fashionable or outrageous hat from more than 200 toppers that adorn the walls before sitting down to look at a menu. And there are plenty of choices – on and off the menu. Moroccan fez or 1920s bowler? Baked oysters or crab cakes? Pecan pie or green apple sorbet? Ten-gallon cowboy hat or head-hugging felt festooned with foot-long dreadlocks? The Ajax’s motto – “A little out of the way, but way out of the ordinary” – could be used to describe many of the North Olympic Peninsula’s finest

Madilynn Eimon of Kingston, 4, enjoys a fun hat at the Ajax Café while her grandmother Karla Harlan watches in the background.

testament to the variety of local cuisine. Locals voted the Ajax best in three categories: Best Place to Take Visitors, Best Steak, and Best Bathroom. But if it’s breakfast you’re looking for, voters said you should wander no farther than The Blue Moose Café, a colorful establishment in the heart of the Port of Port Townsend Shipyard. There, owner Tana Kettle is awake before dawn almost every day to prepare StORy By

eateries, all of which dish up a helping of charm with whatever home-cooked delicacy they’re featuring today. A total of 114 restaurants were voted best in something in the Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader’s annual best foods survey, a

 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Blythe Lawrence Blythe Lawrence’s mouth waters when she thinks of a toasted cheese sandwich from The Blue Moose, and she’s also partial to Thai food. She hasn’t had a bad meal out since moving to Port Townsend, where she works as a reporter for The Leader.

Romantic to funky, the dining options on the North Olympic Peninsula reflect the community’s diverse tastes and attitudes. Photos by Blythe Lawrence

a hearty breakfast for local shipwrights – and anyone else who happens to be up at 6:30 a.m. Not an early bird? No problem – “The Moose,” as regulars affectionately know it, is open for lunch as well. The Blue Moose isn’t the only place surrounded by ships. The Port of Port Townsend hopes to create a “restaurant district” at the newly remodeled Hudson Point Marina, where hungry boaters can disembark and walk a few hundred feet to shore up their appetites. The “district” already features the Shanghai Chinese Restaurant, The Landfall Restaurant and the relatively new Hudson Point Café, which was voted Best Newfound Place last year. Within the next few years, the district might expand to include T’s Restaurant, ● ● ● Continued on page 24


• Est. 1920 •

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at the Boat Haven 5 to Close Wed. thru Mon. Port Townsend Bistro menu 4-5:30 www.Ts-restaurant.com Closed Tuesdays 385-0700 Reservations Welcomed

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 


Great eats FOOD ABOUNDS Here are the winners of The Leader’s totally unscientific poll of the best places to eat in Jefferson County. A total of 114 restaurants were voted best in something in 2007. BEST BURGER Bloomer’s Landing, Port Hadlock BEST SERVICE, BEST CHOWDER/SOUP The Bayview, Port Townsend BEST FOOD FOR THE BUCK Chimacum Café, Chimacum MOST ROMANTIC T’s Restaurant, Port Townsend BEST FISH AND CHIPS Sea J’s Café, Port Townsend BEST ETHNIC Pedro’s Fiesta Jalisco, Port Hadlock BEST SEAFOOD Silverwater Grill, Port Townsend BEST PASTA Lanza’s Ristorante, Port Townsend BEST STEAK, BEST PLACE TO TAKE VISITORS, BEST BATHROOM The Ajax Café, Port Hadlock BEST PIZZA Waterfront Pizza, Port Townsend BEST BREAKFAST, BEST LUNCH The Blue Moose Café, Port Townsend BEST PLACE TO MEET FRIENDS FOR A DRINK Sirens, Port Townsend BEST DESSERT/TREAT Elevated Ice Cream, Port Townsend BEST SALAD/VEGETARIAN Salal Café, Port Townsend BEST COFFEE Tyler Street Cafe, Port Townsend BEST NEWFOUND PLACE Hudson Point Café, Port Townsend

● ● ● Continued from page 22

a gourmet venue now on Washington Street that was voted Port Townsend’s Most Romantic in 2007. Of course, there are old favorites that no visitor should miss. One is Elevated Ice Cream and Candy Shop, one of two establishments to have won its category in the newspaper’s best foods competition (Best Treat) for 12 years running. The other is Waterfront Pizza, a hole-in-the-wall establishment that sells by the slice as well as by the pie. Waterfront is so well known for serving the peninsula’s best pizza that it’s been jokingly suggested that a “Best Pizza other than Waterfront” contest category be created. Laurette McRae owns Sweet Laurette Café and Bistro in Uptown Port Townsend. Other well-known pizza es- Photo by Barney Burke tablishments include Ferino’s Pizzeria in Chimacum and Pizza Factory in Port Townsend, where old meets new: An old-fashioned bike is bolted to one of the establishment’s walls, but a patron with a laptop can easily access the restaurant’s free Wi-Fi. Other restaurants feature live music and even comedy acts. Because in Jefferson County, it’s about the food – and fun and hats and romance and so much more.

The annual Strange Brewfest at the Water Street Brewing and Ale House is a Port Townsend winter carnival. Photo by Blythe Lawrence

4 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


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Lunch

Dinner The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 


Artist for life or a weekend EXPLORE THE ART AROUND YOU Check out these websites for interesting classes happening in Jefferson County. Some offer weekend drop-in classes. Northwind Arts Center www.northwindarts.org/news/workshops Kaleidoscope Summer Arts Camp www.kaleidoscopeyoutharts.org Akamai Art & Glass Supply www.akamaiart.com/Classes.htm Key City Public Theatre www.keycitypublictheatre.org/classes_ and_workshops.htm Paradise Theatre School home.earthlink.net/~theparadise Port Townsend School of Woodworking www.ptwoodschool.com

Being an artist at any age is easy in Jefferson County − even if you don’t live here. In addition to Centrum, there are plenty of other opportunities for visitors to exercise the right side of their brains and take home something special from their trip to the Quimper Peninsula. Port Townsend’s arts center Northwind, 2409 Jefferson, regularly schedules classes in a wide variety of art mediums, including watercolor, polymer clay and even digital art. In July, bring the kids to Kaleidoscope Summer Arts Camp staged during a two-week period. Beginning July 14, the fi rst week is for children ages 8 to 10; the

6 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

second week accommodates kids age 11 and older. Each spring, the popular one-day Children’s Festival of Art is a must-do at Fort Worden State Park. More than 800 attendees come from all over to make a variety of projects, including clay handwork, wood sculpture, art boxes, handmade books, sumi painting StORy By

Kathie Meyer Kathie Meyer came to Port Townsend in 1999 to live within a writers’ community. Since then she has added actor, assemblage artist and knitter to her résumé. During her days, nights and weekends, she is the arts and entertainment editor for The Leader.

Northwind Arts Center offers all types of art classes, including a three-day painting en plein air course in August. Visit www. northwindarts.org for more details. Photo by Kathie Meyer

and much more. The 2009 festival is set for early April. “I had a simply wonderful time at the … Children's Festival of Art at Fort Worden. As the activities photographer for the festival, I spent the entire day photographing kids having fun!” wrote Guy Scharf on his blog at guyscharf.blogspot.com. All ages can learn new skills from local artists at Akamai Art & Glass Supply, 2328 Sims Way, where one-day classes as well as longer sessions are available in stained glass, painting and drawing. More inspiration and art supplies are also available ● ● ● Continued on page 28


the A little out owf ay way ... but inary. out of the ord

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A local favorite for 30 years and counting! Voted “Best place to take your visitors 2007”– PT Leader Located on Port Hadlock’s Historic Waterfront

Award-winning Steaks Fresh Local Seafood Serving Dinner Nightly at 5pm

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Fountain Café

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Lunch and Dinner Every Day 11:30-3 and 5-9 Fri-Sat ’til 9:30-ish

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COTTAGE RENTALS Homemade Bento & Teriyaki with Organic Vegetables Waterview Seating & To-Go Menu

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NIGHTLY / WEEKLY RATES

Open Daily 1111 Water Street, Downtown Port Townsend The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 


Arts ● ● ● Continued from page 26

at Belltower Art, 1046 Water, and Olympic Art & Office, 220 Taylor, in downtown Port Townsend. Two local theaters host learning opportunities on a regular basis for playwrights and actors. Playwrights are invited to Key City Public Theatre’s one-amonth Works-In-Progress on the fourth Wednesday of every month at 1128 Lawrence in Uptown Port Townsend. Other classes, including an annual playwriting workshop presented by a nationally recognized playwright, are also staged. In Chimacum, The Paradise Theatre School, 161 Center Road, offers four-hour workshops for curious beginners or advanced theater artists in acting, directing, improv and playwriting for individuals and groups. Call 360-6433493 to express interest. Port Townsend’s newest opportunity for creative learning is at the Port Townsend School of Woodworking at Fort Worden State Park. Classes taught by experts cover all aspects of woodworking, including how to navigate the lumberyard, using tools, and furniture design and building. Open shop sessions are every other Tuesday for those who need help and feedback with a project.

To take a class in knitting, crochet or lace knitting, contact Dinah’s Yarn Shop, 1821 Irondale Road, in Port Hadlock. Learn about upcoming classes at 360-385-5230 or disashop@qwest.net. Those with a serious yarn and bead lust can also check out The Twisted Ewe, 919 Washington, or Diva Yarn &

8 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Trim, 940 Water. While no formal classes are taught in these two shops, experts are always available to help with stalled projects or to teach a new technique or stitch. For those who want a hands-on, creative vacation, Jefferson County is a must see, paint, do. To find out what’s going on everywhere

Kids love coming to Port Townsend each spring for the Children’s Festival of Art and the Kaleidoscope Summer Arts Camp in July. Photo by Kathie Meyer

in the county, check the Community Calendar in the arts and entertainment section of The Leader, available at numerous local hot spots or online at www.ptleader.com.


The Landfall Restaurant Port Townsend’s Funky Seafood Dive with Panache

Where the Water Meets Water Street!

Uniquely Prepared Breakfasts & Lunches “Chips here partner with pollack, oysters, calamari, or shrimp. Check out the ship-mast forest of Point Hudson Marina from the octagonal dining room.” -”Five Great Fish and Chips,” Sunset Magazine, Sept. 2005 www.thelandfallrestaurant.com

Grab ! e t i aB

385-5814 • 412 Water Street, Port Townsend

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Fresh Wild Flavor 237 TAYLOR STREET • NEXT TO THE ROSE THEATRE • 360.385.6448

Seafood Pasta Vegetarian Steaks Lamb Chicken Salads Paninis Burgers

If you’ve been

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Late Nite Dining in the Mezzaluna Lounge Full Bar Specialty Cocktails, Beer & Extensive Wine List

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634 Water St. Port Townsend 360-385-6532

• Breakfast All Day • Lunch from 11:30 AM • Beer and Wine • Lunch Crepes • Wide Variety of Large Salads • Dine in Our Lovely Solarium Overlooking Franklin Court Gardens

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 


Legendary bluesman Warner Williams, right, leads a back porch blues jam at Fort Worden State Park . Photo by Barney Burke

Living the music at Centrum RETREAT INTO ART Centrum is a gathering place dedicated to preserving and revitalizing cultural traditions, taking creative risks, and generating new practices, ideas and conversations. Based at Fort Worden State Park, Centrum serves people of all ages, abilities and cultural backgrounds seeking personal growth and transformation through integrated creative, learning and retreat experiences. For year-round workshop and performance information, visit www. centrum.org or call 800-733-3608 or 360-385-3102, ext. 117.

When we prepare to head up to Centrum for a week of music, it’s as if we’re getting ready for a family birthday, Thanksgiving or a seasonal gathering among great friends. It’s a break from routine with good company and good food, but there is one more layer: This holiday centers on music and our cultural heritage. It is mind boggling to consider the enormity of humanity that one can experience at Centrum. On the first night, a master musician sits close to us in a small theater. He plays and sings, revealing the depth of tradition and style he will teach and play all week. Then, one after another, for the rest of the evening and throughout

0 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

the week, an amazing assemblage of master musicians will play for and with us, dance with us, tell us stories, and surround us with music. A Centrum week is structured around formal classes, but informal and impromptu events are part of the pedagogy. The physical demands on students are substantial, but so is the opportunity for great personal artistic growth. I stay up late, rehearse, play with friends and strangers, and try out ideas we have been working on in class. I listen to intimate concerts and go to Building 204 and dance on the beautiful wooden floors to the greatest and most diverse music I will hear all year. Many of the musicians I

have learned from and played with at Centrum are older than 75 years. They learned music from their grandparents, who were living before radio created the changes and syntheses in American acoustic music that we have come to know. They have shaped my performance and recording style to range over a variety of regional traditions that harken back to music that became popular between the 1920s and World War II. By the end of the week, I am both exhausted and refreshed. My heart, intellect, body, memory, fingers, feet and soul have been worked and need a little rest. But unlike most holidays, I have something more than a warm memory: I am now part of a living tradition. And when I hear my children and their friends play music we heard at Centrum, I understand the depth of this cultural inheritance.

StORy By

Lauren Sheehan As a child Lauren Sheehan studied classical guitar and became infected by the spirit of fiddle music at contra dances in western Massachusetts. Now based in Portland, she tours as a charismatic “songster,” an interpreter of songs learned from some of America’s greatest folk and blues artists, many of whom she met as a student, teacher and performer at Centrum.


The flavor of China is closer than you think.

Port Townsend’s Fine Seafood on the Waterfront

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Golden China 379-1118 379-0560

630 Water Street

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b a r G ! e t i aB

1st Place Peninsula Daily News Best Seafood

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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 1


Picture yourself in PT LOCAL BUSINESS IS CORNERSTONE The three economic cornerstones in Jefferson County are the paper mill, marine trades and tourism. Creativity abounds throughout the local business community: from mechanical equipment to fine art, blacksmithing to boatwork, writing grants to writing poetry, retail sales to organic farming. Active Chamber of Commerce organizations meet in Port Townsend, Port Hadlock, Port Ludlow and Quilcene/ Brinnon. The Port Townsend Main Street Program has received national awards for its focus on the historic downtown and uptown districts. Learn more at www. ptmainstreet.org.

The first thing I’d say about Port Townsend is that it is a welcoming place – cozy as a favorite quilt you wrap around your shoulders. And when surrounded by mountains, water, historic buildings full of fun shops and restaurants – and friendly people with whom to enjoy it all – you could say you’re living in a postcard. I’ve seen more rainbows here than anywhere I’ve ever been. Bald eagles fly over downtown on a regular basis. Deer go window-shopping. Everyone has a favorite restaurant; there are more than 30 to choose from, which is unusual in a town of fewer than 9,000 people.

 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

It’s a romantic getaway voted “The Best Place To Kiss,” and an even better place to get married. We have the best speStORy By

Mari Mullen Mari F. Mullen has served as executive director for the Port Townsend Main Street Program since 1998. This award-winning 501c3 nonprofit, founded in 1985, is dedicated to the economic prosperity and historic preservation of Port Townsend’s uptown and downtown historic districts. She has lived in her 120-year-old house for 16 years. She thinks Port Townsend has been a wonderful place to raise her daughter, go to the movies, take midnight walks with friends and star gaze – in between perennial home repair projects.

Port Townsend, the Key City to Puget Sound, is a getaway destination for recreation and leisure and a great place to shop for unique gifts. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan, airplane piloted by Tim Snider

cialty shopping for 50 miles, and most of the stores are individually owned by shopkeepers who handpick every item on their shelves. That’s rare these days. It’s quirky and fun here. There’s a guy named Gary whose mission is to clean up all the cigarette butts, and lately he has trained new recruits. The hot dog stand is painted in the historic color palette. We have two movie theaters plus a drive-in, and there’s no shortage of wry bumper stickers. I look forward to the Jefferson County Courthouse Clock Tower bell ● ● ● Continued on page 34


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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 33


Port Townsend is a great walking, browsing and shopping town. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

Shopping locally and a thriving arts scene – the first Saturday Gallery striking 12 every day. You Walk is a great place to meet can hear it all over town. new friends. Sandwiched There is a roll-up-yourbetween the microbreweries sleeves volunteer spirit here, and a love for Port Townsend’s and homemade ice cream is a working waterfront and acVictorian past coupled with commodations for every taste. a strong preservation ethic. It’s a walkable, bikeThis should keep us going able, hikeable town with a for the next 100 years. penchant for locally grown It’s a mill town, and that food and dressing up for keeps it real, diverse and parades. You can follow the interesting. It’s a festival fl oury footsteps to the artisan town with imaginative events bread bakery Uptown. Or hop in a kayak and explore Gabby, a “Baja shepherd,” checks out the the bay. You might even see new drinking fountain at Haller Fountain a century-old schooner sail in downtown Port Townsend with her person, Teresa Verraes. The feature is part by or spot an otter scampering among the boats. of the Haller Fountain improvements There are lots of ways to made with a fund to memorialize Steve get to Port Townsend, and it’s Corra, 24-year city parks employee. The definitely worth the trip. It’s a new water fountain has three bubblers: one for tall people, one for not-so-tall town at the end of the rainbow people, and of course, one for dogs. that I’m lucky to call home. ● ● ● Continued from page 32

Photo by Barney Burke 4 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 35


These intrepid automobile enthusiasts enjoyed a getaway in the Quilcene and Hood Canal area. Photo courtesy of Quilcene Historical Museum

Route 19), about 5 miles south of Port Townsend. Hours are 11 a.m.-4 p.m. TuesdaySaturday. Call 360-379-6673. Rothschild House State Park is a historic home with original furnishings of the Rothschild family (18681954). Admission (includes private tour) is $4 for adults, $1 for kids age 12 and younger, and $6 for a “passport” that includes admission to the Jefferson County Historical Society Museum. Hours are 11 a.m.-4 p.m. daily, May through September, at The past is part of the visits are possible, or research Jefferson and Taylor streets in Port Townsend. Contact future in Jefferson County, may be arranged by call360-379-8076, 360-385home to some of the oldest ing ahead. Leave a message 1003, www.jchsmuseum. buildings in Washington state. at 360-765-4848, 360-765org/Rothschild/house.html. Take advantage of your 3192 or 360-765-4404. getaway here by checking out The Kelly Art Deco Light Downtown Port Townsend our history with a visit to one features the Jefferson Museum, the only known of our museums. You might American art deco lightCounty Historical Society also want to investigate the Museum in historic City Hall, ing museum in the world, is Jefferson County Historical open daily, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 540 Water St. Check out the Society Research Center, gift shop. Admission is $4 for On exhibit at the free mushared by the Jefferson adults, $1 for kids age 12 and seum are rare, one-of-a-kind County Genealogical Society. younger, and $6 for a “passart deco fixtures selected Along with traditional port” that includes admission from a 30-year collection of museums – including the to the Rothschild House (open more than 2,000. Located Rothschild House, the smallMay-October). Museum hours in the Kelly Building, 2000 est state park in Washington Sims Way, Port Townsend. are 11 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday– we have the Kelly Art Deco Sunday in January-February Contact 360-379-9030, www. Light Museum and the Port thedecomuseum.com. and daily the rest of the Townsend Aero Museum. year. Contact 360-385-1003, The Port Townsend Aero Quilcene Historical jchsmuseum@olympus.net, Museum provides work-based Museum reopens in 2008 www.jchsmuseum.org. opportunities for youths and after a much-anticipated Visit the Jefferson County young adults, and restores, expansion with enhanced flies and displays antique Historical Society Research displays, more photos and aircraft at Jefferson County Center to look up famfresh artifacts. It is located International Airport south ily and property histories, at 151 E. Columbia, at the of Port Townsend. Hours are view photos, and investigate intersection of Center Road, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Wednesday its library of genealogical in Quilcene. Admission is by resources. The center is shared through Sunday. Contact donation. Hours are 1-5 p.m. 360-531-0252, ptam@olypen. by the Jefferson County Friday-Monday from April Genealogical Society at 13692 com, thuotte@waypoint.com, 19 to Sept. 28. Limited winter Airport Cutoff Road (State www.ptaeromuseum.com.

Art deco lights to historic nights LOOKING BACK (from the pages of the Port Townsend Leader) OCtOBeR 1897 “Klondike Gold! The Port Townsend Board of Trade respectfully asks your attention to the fact that persons bound to the great gold fields of the North can obtain everything they need from the merchants of Port Townsend, at prices from 5 to 20 percent less than in any other city of Puget Sound.” May 1915 “Word was received in this city yesterday afternoon that a Ford touring car driven by Frank Hart had completed the trip over the Olympic Highway [U.S. Highway 101 along Hood Canal] from Quilcene to Olympia. Hart is the first man to have covered the entire distance.” MaRCH 1918 A schooner arrives in Port Townsend Bay and stands out from the other vessels. “The Wergerland is minus two masts, the sticks having gone over the side when the schooner was 100 miles outside Cape Flattery.”

6 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


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For information on and links to partner organizations, classes, workshops, special events, public performances, and exhibitions visit fortworden.net. The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 37


U.S. Army Coast Artillery troops fire one of the large “disappearing” cannons in 1890 at Fort Flagler on Marrowstone Island. Museums at Fort Flagler State Park and Fort Worden State Park look back on local military history. Photo courtesy of Puget Sound Coast Artillery Museum

The volunteer-led museum offers a 14-minute video, guided tours of the historical gun emplacements from May to September, and a gift shop. Admission is by donation. Call the park office at 360-385-1259. There are two museum experiences at Fort Worden State Park (1902) in Port Townsend. For more park events, visit www. The military has left its – all to the state. The net parks.wa.gov/fortwormark on Jefferson County, result has been great for edu- den/interpretive/aspx. and it’s a true “swords cation, recreation and many The Commanding into plowshares” tale. other programs hosted at these Officer’s Quarters (1904) In 1856 the U.S. Army local Washington state parks: illustrates how a senior ofestablished Fort Townsend Fort Worden, Fort Flagler ficer and his family lived on near the head of Port and Old Fort Townsend. an army fort at the turn of Townsend Bay. The major Three museums asthe 20th century. Suggested buildings burned in 1895 sociated with these parks donation is $2 for adults, free and were never rebuilt. provide details of this for ages 12 and younger. Open There was still a need to area’s military history. daily 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Juneprotect Seattle and the naval August; weekends noon-4 shipyard at Bremerton. Three Fort Flagler State Park p.m. September-October and major fortifications – Fort Museum is easy to reach: March-May. Call in advance Flagler on Marrowstone Go to Port Hadlock and for tours, 360-385-3176. Island (1899), Fort Casey on look for the park’s road The Puget Sound Coast Whidbey Island (1900) and signs. Cross Portage Canal Artillery Museum is in Fort Worden on the Quimper Bridge, cross Indian Island, Building 201, next to the Peninsula (1902) – formed and bear left (north) as you park office. Operated by a a 106-gun naval defense enter Marrowstone Island. nonprofit volunteer associatriangle. It was a technologiThe park is located at the tion since 1979, the museum cal marvel when constructed. northern tip of the island. has many unique features, The Army Coast Artillery Fort Flagler was the includes a gift shop, and is Corps was considered the first of the Puget Sound open year-round. Admission most technical branch of mili- Harbor Defense posts built is $2 for adults, $1 for ages 12 tary service and was “good to protect Admiralty Inlet, and younger, $5 family rate. duty” because there wasn’t the entry to Puget Sound. Hours are 11 a.m.-4 p.m., with a lot of marching involved. Friends of Fort Flagler extended hours Friday and By 1918, aircraft had State Park have led speSaturday in July and August. proven fixed fortifications ob- cial restoration efforts at Tours provided by appointsolete. The forts here had rethe park, creating a differment. Artillery Hill tours are newed importance in the early ent experience from other offered in summer. Message 1940s but were sold as govnearby coast artillery forts phone is 360-385-0373, or ernment surplus in the 1950s turned into state parks. email artymus@olypen.com.

Never a shot fired in anger LOOKING BACK (from the pages of the Port Townsend Leader) May 27, 1898 “Today the preliminary survey work at Point Wilson will be begun, preparatory to commencing work on the big fortifications to be erected.” NOVeMBeR 1904 A soldier causes a downtown Port Townsend dance hall disturbance: “The dancing was in progress when the fellow, who was overloaded, pulled a big ugly looking gun and accentuated his lusty yells with a shot now then from the gun. He finished the six shots from the gun and was still on the yell when the police arrived and took him in tow.” JULy 1950 “Impending departure of military personnel from this vicinity [to the Far East] was reflected this and last week in the rush of applications for marriage licenses at the county courthouse.”

8 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


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ONLINE GALLERY FORESTGEMS.COM The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 39


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HISTORIC SEAPORT The City of Port Townsend is one of three ports along the coastline of the United States named to the National Register of Historic Places. It is known for its Victorian-era architecture. The 12th Annual Victorian Festival brings that era alive on May 2-4 this year. For more information, visit www. victorianfestival.org. The annual Historic Homes Tour is staged Sept. 20-21. For details, check out www. ptguide.com/homestour.

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Take a tour of history Port Townsend is home to many historic and otherwise unique homes and commercial buildings. Most are not open to the public unless they are posted as being open, have been converted into inns or are featured in special events. Please use courtesy when enjoying our historic landmarks!

James and Hastings Building (1889)

Capt. tibbals Building (1889), now the Palace Hotel, was a “rooming house.”

waterman & Katz Building (1885), formerly the W&K dry goods store.

Lighthouse Café Building (pre-1880), former home of the renowned Axtel Saloon.

Bishop Block (1891), built by British sailor and builder William Bishop.

40 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Sterming Block (1889), built by George Sterming for his Belmont Saloon. Mount Baker Block (1890), built as an office building during railroad days. Hastings Building (1889), built by pioneer Lucinda Hastings and her children. C.F. Clapp Building (1885), the earliest building in the city with a cast iron façade.

enoch S. Fowler Building (1874) was the county courthouse in territorial days. Haller Fountain (1906), donated by Theodore Haller in memory of his father, Granville O. Haller, commander of Fort Townsend. Rose theatre (1907), still downtown’s movie house, was restored in 1992. Francis wilcox James House (1891), built by the James family. Customs House (1893) holds the U.S. post office and other public agencies. F.w. Hastings House (1889) ● ● ● Continued on page 42


RELIGIOUS ORGANIZATIONS Baha’i Faith

1-800-22-UNITE , www.us.bahai.org “I want to make you understand that material progress and spiritual progress are two different things, and that only if material progress goes hand in hand with spirituality can any real progress come about, and the Most Great Peace reign in the world.” – Baha’i Holy Writings

First Baptist Church

Loving God & Loving Port Townsend. 1202 Lawrence St., (Uptown) email: pffirstbap@netscape.net Church office: 385-2752 Skip Cadorette, Pastor Sunday Worship 9:30am, a relaxed come-as-youare, blend of contemporary and traditional music, prayer and honest Biblical teaching, Nursery care Schedule of Activities: provided. Sundays: 10:00-11:30am Classes for kids and youth 10:45 am, sermon Devotions, reading holy Writings, singing, discussions. Sunday School for children: Learn discussion and coffee hour for adults.

all about the different religions, virtues, crafts, dancing, plays. All ages welcome. Call 344-3333 or 385-0157. Study Class: Tuesdays, 7:00pm. Call 385-0157 for place.

Bet Shira Mailing: PO Box 1843, PT, WA 98368 Phone: 360-379-3042 email: betshira@yahoo.com

Calvary Community Church Worshipping Jesus Christ through sound Bible teaching, song and prayer. Evangelical, independent, with an emphasis on missions. Senior Pastor Rev. James Rosenquist 13474 Airport Cutoff Rd. Office 385-6469, Tuesday-Friday 9-4

Sunday worship 8:30 and 10:45am.Staffed Nursery and/or Preschool both services. K – 8th-grade children’s church and/or Sunday school both services. Youth at Calvary: High School Tuesday, 7pm; Middle School Thursday, 7pm More info on our website www.calvarypt.org.

Christian Science Society Church and Sunday School at 10am, Wednesday. Testimony meetings at noon, 275 Umatilla St. (near Discovery and San Juan), 531-2719. Reading Room downtown at 633 Water Street, 11am to 3pm. Monday-Saturday, 379-1139.

Community United Methodist Church 130 Church Lane, Port Hadlock 385-1579, mail: PO Box 240, Port Hadlock Lindsy Ireland, Pastor Sunday Worship 10am Open Hearts, Open Minds, Open Doors.

First Presbyterian Church

Join us in Loving God and Living Boldly! 1111 Franklin Street, Port Townsend Church Office: 385-2525 Website: www.fpcpt.org. Email: firstpres@cablespeed.com Pastor: Rev. Robert E. Slater, D. Min. Sunday: 8:15am Worship & Children's Church; 9:30am Adult Education & Children’s Church. 11am Worship & Youth Education. Professional nursery care provided throughout the morning.

Grace Christian Center Solid, Spirit-filled Bible teaching. “Loving Jesus and loving each other.” Meeting at 200 Olympic Place (Port Ludlow Conference Center) 821-9680 Kevin Hunter, ThD 821-9684 Pastor Sherri Barden, PhD www.gracechristiancenter.us

Sunday service: 10am Wednesday: Grace Gathering 6:30pm

Grace Lutheran Church Evangelical Lutheran Church in America 1120 Walker Street, Port Townsend Howard A. Fosser, Pastor, 385-1595

Sundays: 9:15am Christian Education and Adult Forum; 10:30am Worship with Holy Communion. Nursery care during the Service. Mondays: 10am Lutheran World Relief Quilting Wednesdays: 8:30am Con Gracia, Women’s choir practice, 10am Bible Study on next week’s texts Thursdays: 7pm Choir Practice Fridays: 6:30am Bible & Breakfast for Men at the Bayview Café For current schedules and information please call 385-1595. Visit us at www.gracelutheran.us.

Port Ludlow Community Church

San Juan Baptist Church

Where Everybody is Somebody and Jesus is Lord 9534 Oak Bay Road, Port Ludlow 437-0145 email: plcc@olympus.net Dennis LaMance, Pastor

Affiliated with the Southern Baptists, San Juan Baptist Church is a warm, caring, Bible-believing fellowship of people who care about YOU! Where the “SON” always shines! Dan McMillan, Pastor: 385-2545 1704 Discovery Rd., Port Townsend

Sunday Worship 8:45 and 10:30am, Adult Sunday School 8:45am; Children’s Hour during 10:30 service Thursday: 10am Women’s Bible Study; Various home studies on alternate Mon. and Tues.

Lutheran Church of the Redeemer A Safe, Warm and Exuberant Church 45 Redeemer Way, Chimacum, WA, between Port Hadlock & Chimacum in the Tri-Area on Chimacum Rd. Pastor: Don Pieper, Church Phone: 385-6977

Sundays: 8am Traditional Service, 9:30am Sunday School, 10:30am Contemporary Service Thursday: 7pm Prayer Group, Nursery available from 8 to 12, Youth Programs, Alpha Group, Small Group Fellowships Tues, Wed, Thurs: Preschool for ages 3-5 Visit our website at www.redeemerway.org

New Life Church “A place of new beginnings.” 1636 Hastings Ave., Port Townsend Pastor Bill Wolfe 385-7717 Sunday: 8:30am, First service 10:00am, Sunday school 11:00am, Second service Wednesday: 7:00pm, Family Night, Adult Bible study, Children & youth studies. Thursday: 7:00pm, Get Real Youth Visit our website at www.newlifept.org

Quakers Religious Society of Friends 379-0883 Meet at PT Community Center, corner of Lawrence and Tyler Streets. PT Quakers meet in silent worship each Sunday at 10am; Worship with singing at 9:30am.

Saint Mary Star of the Sea Catholic Church 1335 Blaine Street/Rectory: 385-3700 www.users.qwest.net/~sotsea/ email: stmaryss@qwest.net Pastor John Topel, S.J.

Masses: Sábado 9am en Español con Padre John Topel, SJ; Saturday Vigil 5:30pm; Sunday 8:15 & 10:45am; Monday, Thursday & Friday at 12:05pm; Wednesday 6:30pm. Confessions before every Mass and upon request.

Saint Paul’s Episcopal Church In historic Port Townsend – worship with us in Washington’s oldest Episcopal church building in continuous use. www.stpaulspt.org Corner of Jefferson & Tyler, 385-0770 The Rev. Elizabeth A Bloch, Rector Sunday: 8 & 10am Holy Eucharist: 10am Children's Program (nursery available)

Sundays: 9:15am, Discovery Bible Class (Sunday School), all ages; 10:30am, Worship Service (childcare provided for both); 6pm, Bible Study Groups. All welcome.

Seventh-Day Adventist Church 1991 Dosewallips Road • P.O. Box 709, Brinnon 360-796-4174, 360-796-4736 (leave message) Welcome to Sabbath (Sat.) Services: Bible Study (all ages) 10am Worship Hour 11am

Saint Herman of Alaska Orthodox Christian Church Orthodox Church in America, Diocese of the West Come and experience the worship of the ancient church in modern times. All services in English 1407 30th St., Port Townsend • 360-385-0585 www.orthodoxporttownsend.com Rev. Nicholas Kime, Rector

Divine Liturgy: 9:30am Sunday (preceeded by Hours) Great Vespers: 7pm Saturday We celebrate all Major Feasts and selected weekly services from the Liturgical Calendar. Please see website for further information. Inquirers’ Class: 7pm every other Wednesday

Trinity United Methodist Church We are a friendly, welcoming, caring congregation. Gospel choir, child care available and handicap accessible. Everyone is welcome to all services. Come hear our 19th century tracker pipe organ.

609 Taylor Street, Port Townsend Rev. Wendell Ankeny: 385-0484 Services at 10am.

Unitarian-Universalist Quimper UU Fellowship 2333 San Juan Avenue, 379-0609 quuf@olympus.net • www.quuf.org A Welcoming Congregation

Sunday Service 9:15 & 11:15 Sunday Services & Religious Education

Unity Spiritual Empowerment 11am Sundays: Inspirational Service & Children’s Circle, Masonic Hall - Jefferson/Van Buren. Call for classes and special events. Home of the Daily Word Come Home to Unity! Rev. Pamela Douglas-Smith 385-6519 Website: unitypt.org

Wed: 10am Holy Eucharist & Healing Service

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 41


Lynn Sterling, a member of the Jefferson County Historical Society, conducts walking tours of downtown Port Townsend. She is a former owner of the Holly Hill House bed and breakfast. Photo courtesy of Jefferson County Historical Society James Swan Hotel (1911), built by Swan, frontier scientist and historian. City Hall & Museum (1891), also home of the Jefferson County Historical Society Museum. Lewis Building (1889), originally the Fowler/Caines Building. Franklin House (1886), Port Townsend’s first fireplace brick hotel, was enlarged from an 1869 wood building. N.D. Hill Building (1889) housed the Hill family’s drugstore, now the Water Street Hotel.

Homes ● ● ● Continued from page 40 O’Rear House (1891), winner of 2004 Washington State Historic Preservation Award. Jefferson Count Courthouse (1892), one of two oldest government buildings in state, features a 124-foot clock tower. Harry Barthrop House (1880), a Georgianstyle home, now The Quimper Inn bed and breakfast. N.D. Hill House (1880), a Victorian Gothic home, now the Blue Gull Inn bed and breakfast. Capt. James McIntyre House (1871), built for his bride, Sophie Pettygrove.

Carnegie Library (1913), the city library built with Carnegie Foundation funds.

St. Paul’s episcopal Parish Hall (1860s) arrived by barge and was moved in 1999.

R.C. Hill House (1872), a pioneer family home, now Holly Hill House bed and breakfast.

Capt. DeLion House (1882) is an Italianate Renaissance-style home.

George Downs House (1886), noted for its artistic stained glass windows.

George Starrett House (1889), a notable Victorian home, is now Ann Starrett Mansion Victorian Boutique Hotel.

H.L. tibbals House (1887), built by a major town leader.

trinity Methodist Church (1871) is the state’s oldest Methodist church.

Col. Henry Landes House (1882), home of a retired colonel who later became a state senator.

Peter Mutty House (1881) still has the iron grillwork removed from many Victorian houses.

First United Presbyterian Church (1890), Queen Anne-style building with an impressive antique pipe organ.

edward Sims Home (1886) is the former home of a noted state legislator. Remodeled in 1905.

Capt. enoch S. Fowler Home (1860), Port Townsend’s oldest remaining home.

L.C. Strong House (1876), a restored home.

Capt. thomas Grant House (1887), a fine example of Italianate Villa style.

Frank a. Bartlett Home (1860) has a French mansard roof and fine architectural lines.

thomas Hammond House (1890), Victorian home with unusual corner fireplace.

St. Paul’s episcopal Church (1865)

Henry wylie House (1889), Queen Anne “cottage” with excellent decorative detail. Old Catholic Church (date unknown), used until 1958 and now a private residence. Charles Pink House (1868) features late Greek Revival architecture.

Old Bell tower (1890) once summoned the town’s volunteer firemen. Rothschild House State Park (1868), built by prominent merchant. Summer tours, admission. Baker House (1898), former home of a prominent dentist, now a bed and breakfast.

4 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

elias DeVoe House (1888), built as a showplace for DeVoe’s masonry business. Commander’s Beach House (1934), original residence of commanding medical office for quarantine center. Hudson Point, Native American seasonal camp and site of Capt. Vancouver’s 1792 landing. Now home to Hudson Point Marina, restaurants and marine trades shops.

Sitting on the front porch of The James House bed and breakfast, you can watch the ferries come and go from downtown Port Townsend. Photo by Barney Burke

PLeaSe NOte: There are a number of homes and buildings outside the area shown on the map that have historic prominence in Port Townsend. the Commanding Officer’s Quarters (1905) is a museum at Fort Worden State Park furnished as it might have been in 1910. Also located at the park is the Coast Artillery Museum that showcases the history of the U.S. Army’s Fort Worden (1902-1953) and coastal defense fortifications. Overlooking Port Townsend is Manresa Castle (1892), a mansion built by Charles Eisenbeis, the first mayor of Port Townsend. It was expanded in 1925 by a Jesuit order and named Manresa Hall. Source: City of Port Townsend


Visit Port Townsend

Aug. 30- Sept. 1 Main Street ParTy in PT/Sidewalk Sale Sept. 5-7 Wooden Boat Festival Sept. 20 Historic Homes Tour Sept. 26-28 PT Film Festival Oct. 2 Main Street May 1-31 Main Street Art Wave 4th of July Ft. Worden State Park Girls’ Night Out May 2-4 Victorian Festival July & Aug. Concerts on the Dock Oct. 4 & 5 Kinetic Sculpture Race May 11-18 Rhododendron Festival Aug. 8-10 Jefferson County Fair Oct. 4-26 Art Port Townsend May 25 Main Street “Chair Affair” Aug. 16 Uptown Street Fair Oct. 11-12 PT Wedding Show & Parade June 21 Secret Gardens Tour Nov. 29 Main Street Merchants’ Aug. 16 Kiwanis Classic Car Show Holiday Open House Dec. 6 Main Street Treelighting

A Victorian Gem … on the Waterfront

✯ Independently owned Shops & Art Galleries ✯ 30+ Restaurants ✯ Year-Round Special Events ✯ Inviting Lodgings Gallery Walk – 1st Saturday Every Month Port Townsend Farmers Market Uptown, Saturdays & Wednesdays May-October Centrum events – www.centrum.org

Find out more about Port Townsend Uptown & Downtown at: Port Townsend Main Street Program:

www.ptmainstreet.org Events: www.ptguide.com Lodgings: www.enjoypt.com

Photo by Carrie Muellner

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 43


Jefferson County stretches from Hood Canal and Puget Sound to the Pacific Ocean, with Mount Olympus (7,965 feet) topping the Olympic mountain range. Photo by Dean L. Sanders

A playground of Olympic size GET A DAY PASS Vehicles parked at most Olympic National Forest trailheads must display a Northwest Forest Pass year-round. Passes are $5 a day or $30 a year. Northwest Forest Passes are good for 12 months from issuance and are available locally at the Hood Canal Ranger Station in Quilcene as well as at vendors, including Swain’s Outdoor & More in Port Townsend. Day passes may be purchased in bulk ahead of time for those not wanting an annual pass. Passes and maps are available at www.fs.fed.us/r6/olympic. Call 360-765-2200 or email via the website. Specify the Hood Canal Ranger District. Visit the park website at www.nps. gov/olym.

The Olympics come to the Pacific Northwest perhaps once in a lifetime – as in 2010, when Vancouver, B.C., hosts the 21st winter games. Visitors to Jefferson County, however, can have a more permanent Olympic experience anytime they please at Olympic National Park, open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. The park, an international biosphere reserve since 1976, became a designated World Heritage Site in 1981, joining the Pyramids of Giza, the Great Barrier Reef and the Serengeti plain – on a par with other international treasures, says Park Ranger Janis Burger. The cliché about Olympic

44 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

National Park is that it’s really three parks in one – its ecosystems include mountains, such as popular ski and snowboard destination Hurricane Ridge, beachy wilderness coastline, and woodsy, temperate rainforest. To Burger, there’s even more than that. “I’d say it’s 100 parks in one,” Burger says. “I’ve been here over 20 years and I haven’t seen everything there is to be seen. It’s a place that probably deserves a lifetime of exploring.” To see everything the park has to offer might indeed require a lifetime’s worth of dedication. Olympic National Park, which is encircled by

U.S. Highway 101, is bigger than the state of Rhode Island. Its more than 922,000 acres contain 910 campsites in 16 different campgrounds, most of which provide water, toilets and garbage containers. Star attractions include the Hoh Rain Forest with more than 150 inches of annual rainfall, and the garnet-colored sand at picturesque Ruby Beach. Park entrance fees are $15 per vehicle or $5 per individual on foot, horseback, bicycle or motorcycle. Children age 15 and younger visit free, and park entrance fees may be waived for school groups whose learning is centered around park resources. No reservations are required for individual campsites, with the exception of the oceanfront Kalaloch (pronounced kalay-lock) campground in West Jefferson County. The Olympic National Forest borders the national park, with plenty of trails and campgrounds. Check with the ranger station in Quilcene for details. Forest product permits for firewood gathering, personal and commercial mushroom picking and Christmas tree cutting are available by contacting the closest ranger station. There’s so much to enjoy in our Olympic Mountains, you might want to start today.

❚ By Blythe Lawrence


The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 45


ARCHITECTURE: Craftsmen built fine examples of architecture, including Victorian and Greek Revival. Folks live and work in these homes and commercial and government buildings dating from the 1800s and early 1900s. A self-guided Historic Building Tour Map is available at City Hall and the Visitor Center. Visit our museums: page 36 BEACH ACCESS: “Footprint” symbols on the map lead you to easy public beach access. Wildlife use these beaches too, so please stay clear of beached seal pups and don’t let your dogs chase birds. Yes, if you have a state license, you can drop your crab pot from a public dock. Saltwater swimming is OK. Just know that Port Townsend Bay has an average temperature of about 54 degrees F.

CHETZEMOKA PARK: Choose your piece of sunshine or shade, grassy lawn, gazebo or picnic table. Walk the rose arbor, walk the beach. Run your dog off-leash at a special park next door. Learn how the city’s first public park in 1905 was named that year for S’Klallam Chief Chetzemoka. Check out more parks: page 56 DOWNTOWN NATIONAL HISTORIC DISTRICT: Pioneers settled this narrow sea-level spot in 1851. Ship captains from around the world came to this port. Now, you can find art galleries, antiques, unique shops and great restaurants. Enjoy pubs, hotels, coffee shops and beach access, public docks, offshore moorage, kayak and small boat launch and rental, and ferry service. UPTOWN NATIONAL HISTORIC DISTRICT: Victorian ladies shopped and lived here to avoid the rough-andtumble waterfront district. Today, seniors and kids share a community center. A Saturday farmers market fills the street seasonally. From the theater to the market, you can shop, dine and enjoy uptown businesses. Great for walking and biking! HUDSON POINT: Find your best public beach walk access here, where Capt. George Vancouver came ashore in 1792. Native Americans camped here; Coast Guard trainees and soldiers were on duty here. Most is now owned by the public port district. You can row, paddle or sail with Northwest Maritime Center & Wooden Boat Foundation programs, and enjoy the Wooden Boat Festival. Read about marine trades: page 14

46 2008 GETAWAY The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

KID STUFF: Visiting kids of all ages always enjoy an indoor public swimming pool and school playground equipment. Boarders roll at the skate park downtown. Check out the ice cream parlors, funky clothing shops, teen concerts and coffee shops. There’s always the beach! PARK-AND-RIDE: Now that you’ve driven here, consider parking at the Haines Place Park-and-Ride just off the city’s main entrance. People with RVs and other large vehicles should park here and take a shuttle bus downtown. The Port Townsend Chamber of Commerce Visitor Center is relocating here in summer 2008. It’s next to Kah Tai Lagoon Nature Park, a birdwatching favorite. See our transportation advice: page 6.

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Experience PT!

THEATERS: downtown a Theatre, cele in 2008. Mot classic Rose Film Festiva the historic U and the vint just off the h south of tow FORT WORDEN STATE PARK: Starting WALK OR PE in 1902, Army Coast Artillery soldiers this pedestr kept watch here, and in the 1960s, community. juvenile delinquents were evaluated “public trail” here. Now, many musicians, writers, E.The self-guid V dancers and artists create here. A K Townsend W Campers, boaters, divers, sunbathersOO Map and a Q and beachwalkers relax. SandcastlesC and marine science knowledge are built. Peninsula Bi Map are ava Historians teach and tour. Hollywood City Hall, the has been here as well, including the Station, the 1981 filming of the motion picture “An Center and v Officer and a Gentleman.” Centrum is art businesses. attraction: page 30.

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Moorage The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 GETAWAY 47


Catch a sunset, catch a dinner For fly fishers, winter steelhead are the main attraction on the West End of the Olympic Peninsula. Sleek, acrobatic and quicksilver-bright, these anadromous rainbow trout average around 8 pounds and reach more than 30 pounds. As wild steelhead populations have declined throughout the Pacific Northwest, the runs to the Bogachiel and Hoh, Queets and Calawah,

WEST END If you’re looking for a long, winding drive to somewhere, head out to what we fondly call the West End of Jefferson County. U.S. Highway 101 is the best way to get to where you want to go. Look for detours to the Hoh Rain Forest and check out the thick moss growing on Douglas fir trees. The largest cedar tree is 178 feet tall and 19.4 feet in diameter. Take a walk on the beach. Ruby Beach got its name from the tiny red garnets found in the sand. Smell the Pacific Ocean, close your eyes, imagine what it was like 200 years ago, when pioneers first gazed at it. Check out the Olympic National Park visitor information center at 360-5653130 in Port Angeles, 360-374-7566 in Forks or www.nps.gov/olym.

Sol Duc and Quinault have remained strong. Anglers from around the world now flock to the West End when the winter steelhead are on the move. I write about winter steelhead and guide for them, but I’m increasingly drawn to other fish, other seasons. There are far fewer anglers on the water. The weather is better. There are more hours of daylight. And there are more species to fish for, in a wider variety of settings. I love casting for redtailed surfperch from the beach at Kalaloch in April, and working the kelp lines around Tatoosh Island for black rockfish in May. Lake Ozette is a sweet place to paddle a canoe on an early summer evening. Its cutthroat trout hit flies that imitate juvenile sockeye salmon. If you’re really lucky, you’ll be there when a flight of carpenter ants pulls big trout to the surface. By midsummer, my favorite hole on the Calawah contains summer steelhead and sea-run cutthroat. I fish a riffle-hitched Steelhead Caddis at the head of the run for the steelhead, and traditional wet flies in the green water for the cutts. There is no place like Swiftsure Bank in late summer. Located 15 miles

48 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

northwest of Neah Bay, its vast schools of baitfish and krill attract whales and porpoises, sea birds and coho salmon. The last time I was there I caught a 14-pound coho, stripping a Clouser Minnow across the surface. The trails into Olympic lakes seem to get steeper and longer each year, but that hasn’t dampened my enthusiasm for high country trout. Seven Lakes Basin is the West End’s most well known group of subalpine lakes. I like it best in the evening, when shadows darken the water and rising trout dimple the surface.

Donnie Charlton of Port Townsend (left) caught a wild steelhead on the Sol Duc River that weighed 22 pounds. He was joined on his fishing trip by fellow building contractor Troy Murphy of Bellevue. Courtesy photo

StORy By

Doug Rose Doug Rose is a veteran Olympic Peninsula outdoor writer and fly-fishing guide. He has written three books on the area: Fly Fishing the Olympic Peninsula, The Color of Winter and Fly-Fishing Guide to the Olympic Peninsula, which will appear in June. His articles have appeared in Fly Fisherman, American Angler, Northwest Fly Fishing, Wildfowl and Traveling Wingshooter. He and his wife, Eliana, live in West Jefferson County. His website is www.dougroseflyfishing.com.


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Hood Canal: From sea to mountaintop SHRIMP, FISH & FLOWERS Dosewallips State Park: For hiking and camping enthusiasts, enjoy the park. It’s unique because it offers freshwater and saltwater activities. Camp areas are in scenic, rustic settings. And it’s fun just to say the name. For more information, check out www.parks.wa.gov. whitney Gardens: Take a day trip to Whitney Gardens in Brinnon on Highway 101. It offers rhododendrons and a whole lot more. Call toll-free, 800-952-2404. Local feel: For more things to do in Brinnon, visit www.brinnoninfo.com. ShrimpFest: ShrimpFest is set for May 24-25 this year. It’s a tasty family event set in a grassy field north of the Dosewallips River on Highway 101. Check out www. emeraldtowns.org for details.

If it’s a walk on the beach and a hike up a mountain you’re looking for – with a snack of shrimp sandwiched between – head for Hood Canal and Brinnon and Quilcene. See all of Puget Sound in one fell swoop with a drive up Mount Walker – or hike to the top if you have the energy and time. “We take every guest there,” says Karen Sickel of Brinnon. The view is so amazing it was written up in Sunset magazine. Sickel also recommends Rocky Brook Falls up the Dosewallips Road, but she cautions people to remember

to pick up their garbage. If it’s an old-fashioned community event you’d like to savor, with food and activities and booths galore, mark the weekend of May 24-25 on your calendar. That’s ShrimpFest, and it’s probably the biggest event in the area. “We put people to work helping with the belt sander races,” Sickel says of her guests who visit on that weekend. If you don’t know what a belt sander race is, go to ShrimpFest to find out. It’s a hoot. And a holler. If the electricity works. What attracts people who live in the area also attracts people who visit: There’s an abundance of parks and other places to enjoy nature. The grassy field that hosts ShrimpFest in spring is home A plate of delicious shrimp with a side of coleslaw and garlic bread awaits all who are starved for shrimp at the annual ShrimpFest in Brinnon. Photo by Allison Arthur

50 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

A day visit to Whitney Gardens in Brinnon offers a fine selection of the Washington state flower – the rhododendron. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

to a herd of elk in winter. Fresh shellfish are also a big attraction. Oysters from Quilcene and Dabob bays are shipped to the finest restaurants throughout world. Three rivers tumble out of the Olympic Mountains in South Jefferson County, traversing a landscape of towering fi rs and sweet meadows. The Big Quilcene, the Dosewallips and the Duckabush empty into the saltwater of Hood Canal and offer plenty of recreational opportunities. Elwell P. Brinnon built the fi rst homestead along the Duckabush River about 6 miles south of present-day Brinnon. Later he moved with his wife, a sister to S’Klallam ● ● ● Continued on page 52


IN NEAH BAY

Step Back in Time • Sit in a cedar longhouse, hear the songs, the drumming • Learn about Makah culture through hundreds of artifacts from ancient Ozette Village • See replicas of whaling & sealing canoes

The Makah MUSEUM Daily 10am - 5pm

Quilcene & Brinnon Chamber of Commerce The Emerald Towns of the Hood Canal Come enjoy breathtaking views, fine dining, fishing, boating and accommodations with peaceful settings. Find out what you can do and see at:

www.emeraldtowns.com

or visit the Visitors Center 295142 Hwy. 101 S in Quilcene 360-765-4999 • Contact: visitorscenter@embarqmail.com

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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 51


Canal ● ● ● Continued from page 50

Chief Chetzemoka, to the present site of Brinnon along the Dosewallips, which locals often call “The Dosey.” While Brinnon remained a small community, Quilcene city leaders hoped their town might grow into a major port during the 1890s, when Port Townsend began building a railroad to Olympia and on to Portland. Quilcene would have been its fi rst major stop, but extending the line across 2,730-foot Mount Walker just south of town proved too costly and brought

TAKE A HIKE Mount Walker Viewpoint: Panoramic views of Puget Sound are a hike and drive from U.S. Highway 101. This is the only peak facing Puget Sound that has a road to its summit. The gravel road is narrow and not recommended for trailers. It’s a pleasant two-mile hike. Call the Hood Canal District of the Olympic National Forest at 360-7652200.

railroad plans to an end. In the next century, Quilcene city leaders turned their aspirations to mining, but the Tubal Cain Mining Co. never hit a big enough payload of copper or manganese to compensate for the inaccessibility of the site. The mines closed in the 1920s. Logging is the only trade that sustained both communities until the latter part of the 20th century.

Quilcene National Fish Hatchery: Provides a reminder of the bounty of Puget Sound that was and is. This hatchery raises three of the five species of Pacific salmon: chinook, chum and silver. Open weekdays from 7:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m., the hatchery is 2 miles south of Quilcene along Highway 101. Call 360-765-3334. Pleasant Harbor Marina: On the county’s southern edge is the Pleasant Harbor Marina, a 285-slip marina that offers great facilities for boaters and travelers. Just south is the public boat launch at Triton Cove. Check out www.pleasantharbormarina.com or call 360-796-4611 or 800-547-3479. 52 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

This 2007 Quilcene Community Portrait was taken at the Quilcene Fair and South County Classic Cruisers Car Show, the community’s largest festival. It’s staged in September and centered on the school grounds. Photo by Lyndie Browning

not, Brinnon and Quilcene will continue to host hikers and walkers and people looking for that stunning view over Puget Sound that can only be found from the top of Mount Walker.

A $300 million destination resort and golf course at Pleasant Harbor at Black Point has been proposed for Brinnon’s future. Whether that happens or

❚ By allison arthur Many excellent day-hike and overnight treks into Olympic National Forest and Olympic National Park begin from the Hood Canal area. This is the trailhead to Mount Townsend. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan


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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 53


Port Townsend

Protection Island

Chambers of Commerce

Passenger Ferry to San Juan Islands Fort Worden State Park

PORT HADLOCK/TRI-AREA CHAMBER Port TownsendKeystone Ferry

Visitor Center

Marrowstone Island

Fort Flagler State Park Old Fort Townsend State Park

Naval Magazine Indian Island

Four Corners

S’Klallam Tribal Center

Nordland Mystery Bay State Park

PORT TOWNSEND CHAMBER 2437 E. Sims Way, Port Townsend, WA 98368 Tim Caldwell, general manager tim@ptchamber.org Kim Jons, president Susan J. Grantham, office administrator, 360-385-7869 admin@ptchamber.org www.ptchamber.org

Port Hadlock

Anderson Lake State Park

H.J. Carroll Park

Chimacum

Visitor Center

e River

Quilcene

Economic Development

Parad

d. ay R ise B

Coyle Rd .

Little Quilcen

P.O. Box 774, Quilcene, WA 98376 Lisa Hames, president, 360-765-3361, 360-765-4999 www.quilcene.com, www.brinnon.com www.emeraldtowns.com

Port Ludlow

Dabob Rd.

Lake Leland

Center Rd .

Marina Picnic Area

. Rd

Rd.

Crocker Lake

Hiking

QUILCENE/BRINNON CHAMBER Beaver Valley Rd.

unt mo

Golf

Oak Bay

W

Gibbs Lake

d.

Ea gl e

Camping

e st V a l le y R

Boat Ramp

Center Rd.

Airport

WSU/TEAM JEFFERSON Shine Tidelands State Park

Shine

Bridgehaven

Visitor Center

PORT LUDLOW CHAMBER P.O. Box 65305, Port Ludlow, WA 98365 Jerry Brady, president, 360-437-9798 info@portludlowchamber.org www.portludlowchamber.org

Irondale

Gardiner

P.O. Box 1223, Port Hadlock, WA 98339 Frances Rawski, president, 360-379-5380 chamberinfo@porthadlock.org www.porthadlock.org

Team Jefferson was designated in 2007 by Washington State Community Trade and Economic Development and Jefferson County to coordinate local economic development programs. Focus is innovation, education and entrepreneurship – all with a goal of creating a vibrant, sustainable local economy. 201 W. Patison, Port Hadlock, WA 98339 360-379-5610, ext. 201 L. Katherine Baril, director, WSU Jefferson County Extension kbaril@wsu.edu Bill Wise, chairman, Team Jefferson billwise@jefferson.wsu.edu

OLYMPIC ECONOMIC DEVELOPMENT

Big Quil

cene Riv er

To a nd

Olympic Economic Development is dedicated to attracting and creating new businesses on the Olympic Peninsula that are capable of providing family-wage jobs. The OED is a private, nonprofit corporation funded by membership, donations and fees charged for services rendered to its clients.

os

River

Brinnon

Dosewallips State Park

P.O. Box 877, Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-6767

Pe n i n s u l a

Dosewallips

Coyle

54 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Terrain Map courtesy of the Washington State Department of Ecology

Jay Brevik, president Ian McFall, director director@olympicED.com info@edcjc.com www.edcjc.com


The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 55


Picnic, play at county parks JUMP INTO A PARK For complete information on parks in Jefferson County, visit the Jefferson County Parks and Recreation website at www.countyrec.com or call 360-3859129. Better yet, stop by and visit the Rec Center, Uptown at Tyler and Lawrence, or the Parks and Recreation office at 623 Sheridan in Port Townsend. Camping season is April 1-Oct. 31.

Outdoor recreation is affordable in Jefferson County. There is such a variety that it sometimes is hard to pick what to do. Camp and enjoy nature. Take in a semi-pro football game. Dive into a lake. Or just picnic with the family. We have four campgrounds costing less than $20, and no reservations are required. So if all the fancy

hotels you picked are booked and it’s a beautiful summer day, consider camping. Personally, I love Indian Island Park, which has 2 miles of shoreline, new widened trails along the bluff above the beach, and amazing views of Oak Bay. And the clams are fantastic. But don’t forget to get a shellfish permit and dig in the right season. For a wedding or an extended family gathering, you can’t beat H.J. Carroll Park. The Rotary Pavilion can serve 100 people. The landscaping, creek access, lawns and walking trails are superb for the entire family. And there’s Memorial Field in downtown Port Townsend, which hosts semi-pro football games this North Beach is a popular spot for walking dogs and letting them get wet. Photo by Dakota Cannavaro

56 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Jefferson County Parks and Recreation manages parks at Lake Leland and Gibbs Lake that include popular swimming holes. Photo by Luke George

spring and then shifts to local high school football games in the fall. Sitting in the old grandstands makes me feel as if I’m part of history. CAMPGROUNDS Chimacum: On 8 acres located behind the TriArea Community Center and across the road from Chimacum Schools, it offers water, shelter, eight campsites, four picnic sites. Lake Leland: On 2.6 acres located between Discovery Bay and Quilcene, it offers boat ramp, beach, freshwater fishing, 22 campsites, two picnic sites. No potable water. Lower Oak Bay: On 26 acres located on saltwater southeast of Port Hadlock and north of Mats Mats Bay, it offers boat ramp, beach, ● ● ● Continued on page 58


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Concerts, festivals, seasonal activities, market, ďŹ rst class golf, boating & shoreline activities. Visit our website: www.portludlowchamber.org

Every color of the rainbow welcome ...

Concerts in the Barn 25th Anniversary Season!

Stay and play for a day or a lifetime!

All colors,shapes & sizes!

Enjoy beautiful chamber music, the sweet scent of the Northwest woods, a soft summer breeze, and a lovely picnic. For tickets & information, please call (360) 732-4800 or visit www.olympicmusicfestival.org

Every Saturday & Sunday at 2 pm • June 28 - Sept. 7, 2008

The DOG & I grooming & boarding

Next to Chimacum Valley Vet - 385-4116 Now using all green products

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 57


Parks ● ● ● Continued from page 56

picnicking, approximately 10 campsites, six picnic sites. Upper Oak Bay: On 5 acres located above the Lower Oak Bay Campground, it offers playground, 24 campsites, two picnic sites. Limited electrical hookups. Quilcene: On 4 acres located behind the Quilcene Community Center in

LAKE REMINDERS Jefferson County Public Health monitors local lakes for blue-green algae. In 2007, levels warranted a health advisory and people were asked to avoid swimming in Leland, Gibbs and Anderson lakes. Pets should not be allowed to drink from lakes when algae bloom. Two dogs died in 2006 from drinking water in Anderson Lake. Lakes are posted when algae blooms occur. Visit the health department’s website at www. jeffersoncountypublichealth.org for more information.

Quilcene, it offers playground area, tennis court, shelter, 13 campsites, two picnic sites. DAY-USE PARKS A variety of activities are offered, from mountain biking to basketball, picnicking, kayaking and more. For a complete guide visit www. CountyRec.com. All are open during daylight hours. Day-use parks are Courthouse Park, East Beach Park (Marrowstone Island), Gibbs Lake (off West Valley Road in Chimacum), H.J. Carroll Park (Rhody Drive, Chimacum), Memorial Field (Port Townsend), Port Townsend Community Center, South Indian Island Parks, Shine Boat Ramp (Shine Road), Irondale Park, Larry Scott Memorial Park/Trail (Port Townsend), Quilcene River Park, Quilcene Park (next to Quilcene Community Center), North Beach Park (Port Townsend) and Irondale Beach (unimproved open space at the end of Moore Street in Irondale).

58 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Clam digging is a favorite thing to do. Be sure to get a shellfish permit. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

REC CENTER The Port Townsend Recreation Center at 620 Tyler St. offers a play area outside and recreation activities inside, year-round. Available for use are a free fitness area and gym, a climbing wall, and table games such as table tennis, billiards and foosball for teens. There is also a commercial kitchen and meeting space. It’s open Monday through Saturday. Call 360-385-2221 for details. StORy By

Matt Tyler Matt Tyler is manager of Jefferson County Parks and Recreation. He enjoys connecting with people and helping them get to know the activities the county has to offer. When he’s not working he enjoys kayaking, bicycling, rowing and showing his son around the parks.

FAIRGROUNDS The Jefferson County Fairgrounds is managed by the Jefferson County Fair Association. Services include building rentals; RV, boat and car storage; and a campground. Building rentals are available for reunions, weddings, receptions and other events, and include large meeting rooms with kitchens, covered picnic area, large dance hall with stage and kitchen, and an outdoor horse arena. The campground includes restrooms with showers; trailer sump station; 18 power, water and sewer sites; 40 power and water sites; and 22 dry tenting sites available on a daily basis, $15-$20. Special rates are available for RV groups of 10 or more; up to 200 RVs can be accommodated. The association office is open 9:30 a.m.-2 p.m. Monday-Friday at 49th and Landes streets, Port Townsend, WA 98368; phone 360-385-1013. Visit www. jeffcofairgrounds.com.


Spectator’s

1958-2008 Celebrating 50 Years!

football

Our 50th Anniversary Season

Come watch a local team.

April 18 - May 10

The Conference of the Birds An Allegorical Quest for Truth

June 20 - July 12

april 26

Where’s My Money? A Lively, Smart Comedy

Whatcom Co. Raiders @ Olympic Peninsula Eagles

August 1 - 17

As You Like It

june 14

Shakespeare in the Park

Puget Sound Pirates @ Olympic Peninsula Eagles

September 19 - October 12

Working: A Musical Based on the Book by Studs Terkel Summer Sampler (July 18 & 19) WordPlay Reading Series (Oct. & Nov.) A Golden Age Radio Christmas (Dec. 11-14) Annual Playwrights’ Festival (Feb.-Mar. 2009) PT Shorts (first Saturday of every month)

Key City Playhouse

419 Washington St., Port Townsend Advance tickets from Quimper Sound 230 Taylor Street, 360-385-2454

Show Info Line: 360-385-7396 www.KeyCityPublicTheatre.org

9th Annual

PORT TOWNSEND FILM FESTIVAL September 26-28, 2008

june 28

Tacoma Invaders @ Olympic Peninsula Eagles

july 12

Snohomish Co. Thunder @ Olympic Peninsula Eagles

Passes on sale now Advance tickets available Sept. 1 Child care available A film lover’s block party celebrating great films & filmmakers www.ptfilmfest.com

ALL HOME GAMES PLAYED AT MEMORIAL FIELD.

360-379-1333

IZADORA’S Tanning & Day Spa

Life is Sweet Your Outdoor Connection for Travel Camping Hiking Kayaking Walking Swimming Running Backpacking Marshmallow Roasting

So is finding everything you need at

Peninsula Tux

D&D Insulation, Inc.

1044 WATER STREET 360-379-9711 MON-SAT: 9-8 • SUN: 10-6 www.sporttownsend.com

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 59


Lawnmower races (these are the women drivers) have become the largest spectator draw at Hadlock Days, the community festival hosted each July. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

The heart of a county ISLAND PARKS Just across the Portage Canal Bridge from Port Hadlock lies Indian Island (with two small day-use county parks) and Marrowstone Island. Marrowstone includes one large (Fort Flagler State Park) and two small (Mystery Bay and Kinney Point) state parks. Bring your boat, your bicycle or just your lawnchair.

Almost any getaway to Jefferson County brings you through the crossroads known as the Tri-Area: Port Hadlock, Irondale and Chimacum. Business, farming and manufacturing mix well with residential development. The Tri-Area is popular with visitors who seek an outdoor experience of camping, hiking and shellfish gathering. Boasting state parks as well as county parks, the area offers scenic

picnic spots, ballfields and other recreational opportunities. And in the past few years, a burgeoning arts community is drawing visitors to new galleries and studios. Chimacum is named for the Chimakum Tribe. Irondale was the site of an ore and steel processing mill from the 1880s to 1912. Port Hadlock was named after New Hampshire-born Samuel Hadlock, who founded

the town in the mid-1800s when he purchased 400 acres with a partner. Hadlock established a lumber mill town on the southwestern shore of Port Townsend Bay in 1867. Today the former mill dock in the part of town known as Lower Hadlock is the site of the waterfront campus of the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding. The school provides a place for aspiring shipwrights to gain all the training required to transform a stack of lumber into a handcrafted sailing vessel. The school is open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. weekdays, and visitors can observe work in progress. Hadlock Days, celebrating “Wooden Ships and Iron Men,” is the community’s traditional celebration in mid-July. It features a parade, car show, vendor booths – and lawnmower races. “Lawnmower races have drawn many people to Port Hadlock and made them aware that we exist and we are fun to be around,” says Hadlock Days volunteer Sandra Hummel. “Family, friends and neighbors building a community – that’s what we want Hadlock Days to be about.” Since 1939, the U.S. Navy has owned Indian Island, across the bay from Port Hadlock and Irondale. It is now the most strategically important ordnancehandling station on the West Coast. Under federal regulations, no vessel is allowed within 100 yards of a military vessel. Boats requesting to pass within 100 yards must contact an official using VHF-FM channel 13 or 16. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan, airplane piloted by Tim Snider

60 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


Your resource for all your getaway needs

We rent heavy equipment & power tools

Get your Hunting/Fishing/Crabbing

licenses here! 360-385-1771 901 Nesses Corner Road Port Hadlock, WA www.hadlockbuildingsupply.com The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 61


The championship golf course at The Resort at Port Ludlow includes three nine-hole courses, and each plays differently. Carved from dense forestland, the course has views across Ludlow Bay. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

first planned resort community in Jefferson County. Residents and visitors have plenty to do. Check at the Port Ludlow Marina office for watercraft, kayak and bicycle rentals. Boat charters are available for sightseeing, touring, sailing and nature cruises. The golf course also has a golf school and lessons, with four different practice areas. Call 800-455-0272 or 360-437-0272, or visit the website portludlowresort.com. Teal Lake Park is located in In terms of Jefferson which can accommodate vesthe woods south of town and County getaways, Port sels up to 200 feet. Visitors can is a great place for fly fishLudlow was one of the first. appreciate the area’s natural ing. Port Ludlow Fly Fishing In the late 1960s, the forbeauty by enjoying the resort’s Club has made improvements mer lumber mill town became 27-hole championship golf to the site, and the park’s a “resort community,” a vilcourse, recognized as one of fishing dock and picnic area lage in the woods by the bay. the most beautiful in the world. are wheelchair-accessible. Port Ludlow is an active Port Ludlow is home to With easy parking, Hood person’s paradise, a retirement more than 100 businesses, Head/Shine Tidelands at the haven and a peaceful resort. many centered in the Village Hood Canal Bridge’s west end Neighborhoods bring resiCenter at the corner of Oak is a great place for a beach dents and newcomers together Bay and Paradise Bay roads. stroll. When tides permit, through a variety of recreNamed for Augustus C. you can walk along a sand ational and social activities. Ludlow, a naval officer in the spit to Hood Head. Although Tree-crowned islands War of 1812, Port Ludlow was it looks like an island, Hood and picturesque views of the founded in 1842 by explorer Head is connected to the Olympic Mountains frame Charles Wilkes. The town’s peninsula by the sand bridge. Port Ludlow’s 300-slip marina, beginnings were drawn Light-duty hiking is great from one of its most strikon the Timberton Trail Loop ing features: dense forest. located off of Paradise Bay The first lumber mill Road on Timberton Drive. was built in 1852 and was The 5-mile loop trail ofacquired 27 years later by fers views of the Cascade Andrew Jackson Pope and Mountains from Mount William C. Talbot. It was a Baker to Mount Rainier. mill town until 1935. In 1968, Numbered rocks along the the Pope & Talbot developtrail help orient hikers. ment business launched the Parking for the short Ludlow Falls Interpretive Chue Cha of Carnation, Wash., makes Trail is available at Port bouquets at the Port Ludlow Friday Ludlow Village Center. Market. Photo by Celeste Flint

Port Ludlow: Peaceful, yet active FRIDAY MARKET The Port Ludlow Friday Market operates from April through September on resort property. It attracts a variety of local and regional vendors with fresh produce, fruit, flowers and arts and crafts. For more information, call the Port Ludlow Chamber of Commerce at 360437-9798.

62 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


The Salon & Beauty Supply IN PORT HADLOCK

Come check out our HUGE selection.

Tanning Packages! (high-powered stand-up beds)

Walk-ins welcome.

The only beauty supply on the Peninsula

63 Oak Bay Road • 385-2276

Bring a little “PT” home with you! Subscribe to The Leader today and receive

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Name: _____________________________________ Phone: ____________________________________________ Address________________________________________________________________________________________ City _________________________________________ State ___________Zip ______________________________ Visa or Mastercard # _______________________________________________ Exp __________________________ Mail with your payment to: The Leader, 226 Adams Street, Port Townsend, WA 98368 or call 360-385-2900 or email subscriptions@ptleader.com The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 63


Get to know us and win a prize too As you’re enjoying your visit to Port Townsend and the Olympic Peninsula, our Getaway visitor guide offers you a chance to get to know the area, test your knowledge and win a prize. New this year is a fact-finding foray within this guidebook. Here’s how it works: Read the following questions. The answers are all contained in our Getaway pages, either in advertisements, story text or photo captions. Fill in the blanks on this form, clip it out, and submit. Bring your answers to our office either in person (there is a wooden drop box outside Jefferson County Courthouse, the center of county government, has a 124-foot clock tower. The structure was built in 1892. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan, airplane piloted by Tim Snider

GETAWAY FACT-FINDING FORAY

our front office door for afterhours submissions) or via mail to Getaway Contest, 226 Adams St., Port Townsend, WA 98368. Be sure to include your name, mailing address, phone number and/or email so we can contact you. We will check each submission, and those with all 10 questions answered correctly will be put into our prize pool. Correct entries remain eligible to win throughout the contest, which runs from June 1, 2008 through Jan. 31, 2009. At the end of each month, we will draw at least one entry from the correct submissions. The prizes are local gifts we can mail you. Each prize is worth at least $20. Now, here are the questions.

1) When was the Jefferson County Courthouse constructed? ______________________

7) Which business in Port Townsend was selected as “One of the Seven Best Ice Cream Parlors in the Country” by Travelchannel.com? ___________________________________________

2) What is the biggest Hood Canal event each year in Brinnon? ___________________

8) The biggest shows hosted by Centrum are staged in what building? ___________________

3) What has become the biggest spectator event at Hadlock Days? _______________

9) What is the tallest mountain on the Olympic Peninsula? _____________________

4) Which advertisement in the Getaway has a sock monkey in the corner? ________________________

10) Have you ever seen a purple dog? Which ad in the Getaway has both a purple and a pink dog? ___________________________________________

5) Which restaurant was voted “Best Coffee” according to The Leader’s 2007 Best Foods survey? ___________________________________________ 6) How many driving miles is it from Kalaloch on Jefferson County’s Pacific Coast to Port Townsend? ________________

Name: _________________________________________ Address: _______________________________________ Phone number: _________________________________ Email: _________________________________________

Mail to: Getaway Contest, 226 Adams Street, Port Townsend, WA 98368 64 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


A Good Ol’ Fashioned Record Store! Concert Posters • New & Used Vinyl • CDs, DVDs & More!

Washington’s Oldest Independent Record Store – Est. 1974 –

230 Taylor Street • Port Townsend

360-385-2454

Open Late Daily

www.quimpersound.com

Dip an Oar. Reef A Sail. Build a boat. Experience a little of what makes this town famous.

Boat Tours Charters Family Boat Building Lessons Sailing Voyages Workshops

32ND ANNUAL

WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL SEPTEMBER 5-7, 2008

NORTHWEST MARITIME CENTER & WOODEN BOAT FOUNDATION

www.nwmaritime.org

360 385-3628

POINT HUDSON MARINA

PORT TOWNSEND, WA

www.enjoypt.com

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 65


ONGOING EVENTS Free Friday Concerts • Presented at noon on outside patio at Fort Worden State Park Commons, JuneAugust, sponsored by Centrum, wwwcentrum.org.

Events Calendar

These are just some of the events taking place in Jefferson County. For more information, read the Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader (www.ptleader. Gallery Walk • Galleries and other art com) – especially for details about local classes, semivenues in Port Townsend stay open nars and programs that supplement the events and fesin the evening on the first Saturday of each month. Many hold opening tivals listed here. (All events are subject to change.)

Maritime Skills Workshops • July through September at Port Hadlock Heritage Campus of Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding, 360385-4948, www.nwboatschool.org. Olympic Music Festival 25th anniversary season • June 28-Sept. 7, Saturdays and Sundays at the Dairy Barn near Quilcene, 360-732-4800, www.olympicmusicfestival.org. Port Townsend Farmers Market • Uptown on Saturdays from May 3 through Nov. 15 at Tyler and Lawrence, and on Wednesdays from June 11 through Sept. 24 at Polk and Lawrence, 360-379-9098, www.ptfarmersmarket.org. Port Townsend Marine Science Center • Adult and youth marine science activities throughout the year in the Natural History Exhibit, Marine Exhibit and on the beach at Fort Worden State Park, 360-385-5582, www.ptmsc.org.

1-10 “The Conference of the

Birds” by Jean-Claude Carriere and Peter Brook, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, www. keycitypublictheatre.org.

1-31 Art Wave – Children’s Art

April 2008

Market at Pope Marine Park Building in Port Townsend, 360385-6131, www.wynwoods.com.

in the Stores, exhibit of artwork created in grades K-12, sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Consortium and Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, www. ptmainstreet.org.

April-June Spring White Cap

26 11th Annual Kitchen Tour

2-4 12th Annual Victorian

receptions for the artists and offer light refreshments.

Living History Walking Tours • Conducted each weekend in downtown Port Townsend during the summer season, sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-3851003, www.jchsmuseum.org.

May 2008

25-27 Port Townsend Bead

Series on Port Townsend Bay sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, www.ptsail.org.

20-26 Brinnon Loyalty Days

featuring eight local kitchens, sponsored by AAUW, 360-379-9472, www.aauwpt.org/kitchen_tour. htm.

with plays by Brinnon Community Theatre, plant sales, auction, sponsored by Brinnon Booster Club, 360-796-4742.

26-27 Port to Port Race spon-

25 Brinnon Loyalty Day Parade

County EXPO at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend, sponsored by county fair association, 360-385-1013, www.jeffcofairgrounds.com/expo.htm.

sponsored by Brinnon VFW and Auxiliary 10706, 360-796-4001.

24-27 “The Conference of the

Birds” by Jean-Claude Carriere and Peter Brook, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, www. keycitypublictheatre.org.

PT Shorts • Dramatic short readings by local actors presented on the first Saturday of each month in Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Commission and produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, www.keycitypublictheatre.org. Protection Island Cruises • Aboard Glacier Spirit, sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-385-5582, 800-566-3932, www.ptmsc.org. Rowing and Sailing Programs • Year-round for adults and youths, sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-385-3628, www.woodenboat.org. Woodcraft Workshops • Adult and youth classes in traditional woodcraft conducted year-round at Port Townsend School of Woodworking in Fort Worden State Park. 360-3444455, www.ptwoodschool.com.

66 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

sored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, www.ptsail.org.

26-27 8th Annual Jefferson

Festival with Candlelight Tour of Homes, Victorian Fashion Show, Cemetery Tours and more, sponsored by Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-1003, www.victorianfestival.org.

3 Port Townsend Farmers

Market opening day in Uptown Port Townsend. Continues each Saturday through Nov. 15 at Tyler and Lawrence streets, 360-3799098, www.ptfarmersmarket.org.

27 Poet Richard Kenney at

Joseph F. Wheeler Theater at Fort Worden State Park, presented by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 117, 800-733-3608, www.centrum. org/writing.

The Victorian Festival, which includes this high-stakes “staged” poker game, is sponsored by the Jefferson County Historical Society. Photo by Kasia Pierzga


3 Black & White Affair sponsored by Port Townsend Noon Rotary at McCurdy Pavilion, Fort Worden State Park, www.porttownsendrotary.org. 3 Port Townsend Community Orchestra Spring Concert at Chimacum High School auditorium, www.olympus. net/community/ptorchestra.

3-4 JeffCo HomeShow at

Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend, sponsored by Jefferson County Home Builders Association, 360-385-1087, www. jeffcohomeshow.com.

4 Partridge Point sail race sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, www.ptsail.org.

4 16th Annual Rhody Bike Tour,

metric and half-metric century sponsored by Port Townsend Bicycle Association, www.ptbikes.org.

8-11 Swing Intensive at Fort

11 Fort Worden State Park

Worden State Park sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 127, www.centrum.org/fiddle.

Open House, with tours at its interpretive sites, museums and houses, 360-344-4406, www.parks. wa.gov/fortworden.

10 Opening Day on Port

12-18 73nd Rhododendron

Townsend Bay, sail-by celebration of boating season hosted by Port Townsend Yacht Club and Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-385-3628, www.woodenboat.org.

10-11 30th Rhododendron

Arts & Crafts Fair in downtown Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild, 360-3793813, ptartsguild@yahoo.com.

Festival, “Happily Ever After,” with weekly events, parades, carnival, sponsored by Rhododendron Festival Association, www.rhodyfestival.org.

17 Rhody Festival Grand Parade, uptown and downtown Port Townsend, www.rhodyfestival.org.

17-18 Rhody Festival Flower

Show at Fort Worden Chapel, sponsored by Rhododendron Society.

18 Rhody Run XXX, a 12k race beginning and ending at Fort Worden State Park in Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Marathon Association, 360-379-3595, www. rhodyrun.com.

24-25 Brinnon ShrimpFest in

downtown Brinnon, a celebration of Hood Canal seafood sponsored by Emerald Towns Alliance, www. emeraldtowns.org/shrimpfest.htm.

Jefferson County is a great cruising getaway, with car shows in Port Townsend, Quilcene and Port Hadlock. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

24-25 Olympic Art Festival in

Quilcene, with artist demonstrations at Olympic Art Gallery, www. olympicartfestival.com.

25 Art Wave “Chair Affair,” a fundraiser for arts in the schools, with silent bidding on dozens of chairs painted by local artists, displayed and sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, www.ptmainstreet.org.

26 American Legion Wreath Laying Ceremony with performance by Port Townsend Summer Band, downtown Port Townsend, 360-344-3658, flam@cablespeed. com.

June 2008 1 Port Townsend Community

Orchestra Pops Concert, a special fundraiser at Chimacum High School auditorium, www.olympus. net/community/ptorchestra.

● ● ● Continued on page 70 Cora Cole wears a colorfully decorated wide-brim hat as part of the Swan School entry in the 2007 Rhododendron Festival. Photo by Allison Arthur The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 67


Enjoy all things…

Port Townsend Lodging 2008 Bed & Breakfasts

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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 69


The Washington Old Time Fiddlers perform at Jefferson County venues and festivals throughout the year. Photo by Celeste Flint

4 Fourth at the Fort Celebration

and Fireworks Show at Fort Worden State Park, with food, family activities, Port Townsend Summer Band and fireworks, sponsored by the City of Port Townsend, Port Townsend Sunrise Rotary, Jefferson Transit and the park, 360-379-3951.

4-5 Festival of American Fiddle Tunes performances at McCurdy Pavilion, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 117, 800-7333608, www.centrum.org/fiddle.

7-11 Bones, Bugs & Bluffs Day

Camp for kids ages 8-12, sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-385-5582, 800-5663932, www.ptmsc.org.

10-13 Dobro Intensive at Fort

Events

11 Port Townsend Wednesday

June 2008

Farmers Market opening day in Uptown Port Townsend. Continues each Wednesday through Sept. 24 at Polk and Lawrence streets, 360379-9098, www.ptfarmersmarket. org.

● ● ● Continued from page 67

June 13-Aug. 29 Summer

1 Old Fort Townsend State

Park Fun Run on the trails of Old Fort Townsend State Park, 360-385-3595, www.parks. wa.gov/fortworden.

1 29th Annual Port Townsend/

Jefferson County Chili Cook-off at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend, 360-385-2556, 360-385-3320.

3-8 10th Feis Shiatail, Scottish-

Gaelic language teachers and musicians at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Slighe nan Gaidheal, 206-903-9452, http://slighe.com.

7-8 25th Classic Mariners’

Regatta sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-386-3628, www.woodenboat.org.

8 Fort2Fort bicycle ride, a sup-

ported tour of 16, 25 or 62 miles starting and ending at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Friends of Fort Worden, www.fort2fortride. org.

Cat’s Paw Series sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, www.ptsail.org.

20-29 “Where’s My Money?” by

John Patrick Shanley, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, www.keycitypublictheatre.org.

21 3rd Annual Peninsula Model Show & Contest at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by North Olympic Peninsula Modelers Society, www.nopms.net.

22-29 Port Townsend Chamber Music Festival at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 109, www. centrum.org/classical.

28 5th Annual Rakers Summer

Cruz-In Car Show at Memorial Field in Port Townsend, sponsored by Rakers Car Club, www.rakerscarclub.com.

29 Port Townsend Summer

Band Concert at Chetzemoka Park, 360-379-3658, flam@cablespeed. com.

June 29-July 6 Festival of

American Fiddle Tunes Workshop at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 127, www.centrum.org/fiddle.

21 Port Townsend Secret Garden Tour sponsored by Jefferson County Master Gardeners, 360-7654717, www.jefferson.wsu.edu.

July 2008

21-22 Summer Solstice Pottery 3-12 “Where’s My Money?” by Sale, six Washington potters at Egg & I Pottery in Chimacum, 360-732-4517.

22-28 Young Artists Project:

High School Summer Arts Intensive at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360385-3102, ext. 120, www.centrum. org/youth.

70 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

John Patrick Shanley, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, www.keycitypublictheatre. org.

Many events include music that compels folks to dance! Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 127, www.centrum.org/slide.

11-13 Hadlock Days in down-

town Port Hadlock, with lawnmower races, parade, antique tractor show and car show, 360-344-4243, ext. 116.

● ● ● Continued on page 72


An exciting and unique array of clothing, shoes and accessories.

for women

And inside About Time clothes, gifts, shoes for kids size 0-7

839 Water St., Port Townsend, WA 98368 360-385-4795

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 71


Events July 2008 ● ● ● Continued from page 70

13-20 Port Townsend Writers’

18-19 Relay for Life, a commu-

nity event to raise money for cancer research, Blue Heron Middle School track, 360-385-2607, scrappinscott@msn.com.

18-19 Port Ludlow Artists

League Art Walk at Port Ludlow Village Center, 360-437-8218.

Conference, with public readings and lectures at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360385-3102, ext. 131, www.centrum. org/writing.

20 Triangle Special sail race

14-18 Marine Biology Day

Casey MacGill’s Blues 4 Trio on the Bay Club lawn for the 11th annual Music on the Green, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-4372208, www.plvc.org.

Camp for kids ages 9-13, sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-385-5582, 800-5663932, www.ptmsc.org.

14-18 Kaleidoscope Summer

Arts Camp, day camp for kids ages 8-10, sponsored by Youth Arts Council, 360-379-2614, www. kaleidoscopeyoutharts.org.

sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, www.ptsail.org.

20 Wylie & the Wild West and

20-27 Jazz Port Townsend

Workshop at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360385-3102, ext. 106, www.centrum. org/jazz.

21-25 Kaleidoscope Summer

Arts Camp, day camp for kids ages 11 and older, sponsored by Youth Arts Council, 360-379-2614, www. kaleidoscopeyoutharts.org.

24-27 Jazz Port Townsend per-

formances at McCurdy Pavilion and local clubs, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 117, 800-7333608, www.centrum.org/jazz.

27 Port Townsend Summer Band Concert at Chetzemoka Park, 360379-3658, flam@cablespeed.com.

July 27-Aug. 2 Marine

Biology Residential Camp for kids ages 9-13, sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-385-5582, 800-566-3932, www. ptmsc.org.

July 27-Aug. 2 Adventures

in Marine Research for high school students, sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-385-5582, 800-566-3932, www. ptmsc.org.

July 27-Aug. 3 Port Townsend Country Blues Festival Workshop at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 127, www.centrum.org/blues.

This wood carver demonstrates his craft at the Uptown Street Fair Craft Show hosted by the Port Townsend Arts Guild. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan 72 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

The Uptown Street Fair celebrates the Uptown Historic Business District with a parade, crafts fair, food and entertainment in mid-August. Photo by Lyndie Browning

August 2008 1-2 Port Townsend Country

Blues Festival performances at McCurdy Pavilion and local clubs, sponsored by Centrum, 360-3853102, ext. 117, 800-733-3608, www. centrum.org/blues.

1-17 “As You Like It,” a

Shakespeare in the Park production by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, www.keycitypublictheatre. org.

2-3 Grand Masters Shuffleboard Tournament sponsored by The Whistling Oyster in Quilcene, 360-765-9508.

3-6 The Roots of Rock at Fort

Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 127, www.centrum.org.

● ● ● Continued on page 74


YOU ARE HERE ...

Ms. Bee Haven

Gallery

& Online store

Unique Folk Art, Décor & Curios

Antiques

... SO ARE WE.

from Mexico

WE MOVED!

Same building, 2nd floor, Suite 5 On Water Street take stairs or elevator on Polk St. Gallery open every Sat. 11-6 360-385-1114 or shop online www.mexicansol.com

1020 Water Street Downtown Port Townsend (360) 385-0347

Keeping the world informed for over 100 years. 226 Adams St., Port Townsend 360-385-2900 PTLeader.Com

WELCOME TO THE FLAGSHIP LANDING All This in One Location on the Water • 1000 Block, Downtown Port Townsend

Puzzles, games & other fun stuff

PERSONALIZE IT! Affordable Papers & Gifts Custom Imprinting

decorative papers • greeting cards personalized napkins • fine stationery seals & sealing wax • invitations desk accessories • wedding favors fine writing instruments • journals

Something for everyone, all year ‘round.

360-344-3858

• Cross Stitch • Quilts • Yarn • Quilting Supplies Open 7 Days a Week

SLEEPY OTTER QUILTS & CRAFTS 379-4091

Open 7 Days a Week Designer Haircuts & Color, Lash Extensions, 1013 Water Street, Port Townsend, Massage, Facials, Microdermabrasion, WA 98368 Waxing & Pedicures 360-379-1278

360-385-0901

Toll free 888-750-2209 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 73


All kinds of animals are on exhibit at the Jefferson County Fair each August. Photo by Barney Burke

19-21 West Coast Sea Kayak

Symposium at Fort Worden State Park, 800-755-5228, www.wcsks. org.

19-28 “Working” by Stephen Aug. 30-Sept. 1 ParTy in PT/

Sizzling Sidewalk Summer Sale sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, www.ptmainstreet.org.

September 2008 5-7 32nd Wooden Boat Festival

at Hudson Point, sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-3853628, www.woodenboat.org.

6-7 Crafts by the Dock in down-

Schwartz and Nina Faso, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, www.keycitypublictheatre. org.

20 Quilcene Community Fair

and Parade with “Send in the Clowns” theme: music, dancing, arts and crafts, photo contest, sponsored by Quilcene Fair Board, 360-765-3361, http://4h.jefferson. wsu.edu, click on Quilcene Fair.

20 South County Classic

Cruisers Car Show in Quilcene, 360-765-3250.

20 Puttin’ on the Ritz sponsored

town Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild, 360-3793813, ptartsguild@yahoo.com.

by East Jefferson Rotary Club, 360-385-4739.

Sept. 14-Nov. 2 Fall Night

sponsored by Jefferson Healthcare Hospital Auxiliary, 360-385-1248, 360-437-4065, www.ptguide. com/homestour.

Cap Series sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, www.ptsail.org.

20-21 Historic Homes Tour

● ● ● Continued on page 76

Events

16 19th annual Kiwanis Classic

August 2008

17-20 Approaches to Scientific

● ● ● Continued from page 72

8-10 71st Jefferson County

Fair, “Barn to be Wild!” at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend, sponsored by county fair association, 360-385-1013, www.jeffcofairgrounds.com.

16 Uptown Street Fair sponsored

Car Show at Memorial Field in downtown Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Kiwanis Club, 360-385-0706.

Inquiry: Science Beyond the WASL, a workshop for teachers of grades 3-8 sponsored by Port Townsend Marine Science Center, 360-385-5582, 800-566-3932, www. ptmsc.org.

24 Port Townsend Summer Band Concert at Chetzemoka Park, 360379-3658, flam@cablespeed.com.

by Uptown merchants, www. ptmainstreet.org.

16 Uptown Street Fair Craft

Show sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild and Uptown merchants, 360-379-3813, ptartsguild@yahoo. com.

More than 200 boats arrive for the Wooden Boat Festival each September, headquartered at Hudson Point. Photo by Celeste Flint

74 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


Whip It Good!

The Imprint Bookstore

~ All New Books ~

All in one location

Victorian Square

We also offer

ur Yo

Kitchen Stor

e

Free gift wrap • Mail order Phone orders VISA/MasterCard welcome Open Daily 10 am - 5:30 pm

844 Water St.

385-4817

PORT TOWNSEND ATHLETIC CLUB

820 Water St., Port Townsend

360-385-3643

940 Water Street Port Townsend, Washington

BEADS, CHARMS, JEWELRY, SUPPLIES

229 Monroe Street Port Townsend, WA 98368 www.ptathletic.com • ptathletic@yahoo.com Monday - Friday 5:30 - 9:00 Saturday 8:00 - 6:00 Sunday 8:00 - 3:00 Conveniently Located Downtown Port Townsend Across from Memorial Field

(360) 385-6560 Free Weights Professional Training Group or Individual Precor® Selectorized & Cardio Equipment Group Fitness Kick Boxing Yoga Pilates Body Flow Will, Power and Grace Senior Aerobics Cardio Hip-Hop Specialty Classes Russian Kettlebells Sports Conditioning Sauna/Jacuzzi Tanning Bed Racquetball Court

OPEN DAILY

wynwoods.com 360-385-6131

Knitting, Fine Fibers, Crocheting Supplies 360-385-4844 • divayarn.com

Embellishments Trim, Fringe, Ribbon, Edging IN THE LOBBY

SEAMS TO LAST Handcrafted Children’s Clothing

940 Water Street • 360-385-5899

a current approach to physical culture The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 75


Events September 2008 ● ● ● Continued from page 74

20-21 Fort Townsend

Encampment/Living History at Old Fort Townsend State Park, sponsored by Friends of the park, 360-385-3595, www.parks. wa.gov/fortworden.

21 Annual Farm Tour & Harvest

Celebration sponsored by WSU Jefferson County Extension, 360379-5610, ext. 200, www.jefferson. wsu.edu.

21 Victorian Antique &

Collectible Auction at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend, sponsored by Victorian Festival/Jefferson County Historical Society, 360-385-6753.

26 The Edlos “A Cappella

Broadway,” the 17th season Performing Arts in Port Ludlow opener at the Bay Club, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360437-2208, www.plvc.org.

26-27 29th Annual Cabin Fever Quilt Show at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend, sponsored by Cabin Fever Quilters, 360-379-0244.

26-28 Port Townsend Film

3-5 4th Annual Wildlife &

Nature Art Expo sponsored by Fort Worden State Park, 360-344-4401, http://wildartexpo.org.

4-5 26th Annual Great Port

Townsend Bay Kinetic Skulpture Race sponsored by Port Townsend Kinetic Konsortium, 360-379-4972, www.ptkineticrace.info.

Festival, “a film lover’s block party,” 360-379-1333, www.ptfilmfest.com.

October 2008 2 Girls Night Out in downtown

Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, www.ptmainstreet. org.

2-12 “Working” by Stephen

Schwartz and Nina Faso, produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-3857396, www.keycitypublictheatre. org.

3 3rd Annual Driving in the Dark

night golf tournament sponsored by Sunrise Rotary of Port Townsend, 360-344-4043.

Old Fort Townsend State Park hosts a yearly historical reenactment. Photo by Barney Burke 76 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

4-26 Art Port Townsend, juried art show and artist studio tours, sponsored by Northwind Arts Alliance and Port Townsend Arts Commission, 360-437-9579.

The Great Port Townsend Bay Kinetic Skulpture Race is a sight to behold on the first weekend of October. Photo by Barney Burke

11-12 Port Townsend Wedding

Show sponsored by Port Townsend Chamber of Commerce, 360-3852722, 888-385-6978, www.porttownsendweddingshow.com.

31 Downtown Trick or Treat in

18 Fall Fruit Show sponsored

Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, www.ptmainstreet. org.

18 Silk Road Duo, Asian and

November 2008

by North Olympic Fruit Club at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend, 360-379-8319. other music traditions at the Bay Club, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, www. plvc.org.

19 Wild Mushroom Show

sponsored by Olympic Peninsula Mycological Society, 360-437-7974.

25 Port Townsend Community Orchestra Fall Concert at Chimacum High School auditorium, www.olympus. net/community/ptorchestra.

31 4th Annual Spooktackular sponsored by Fort Worden State Park, 360-344-4400, www.parks. wa.gov/fortworden.

1-2 Port Townsend

Woodworkers Show in downtown Port Townsend, 360-440-7660, www.splintergroup.org.

1-2 5th Annual Holiday Fair

at Jefferson County Fairgrounds in Port Townsend, sponsored by county fair association, 360-3851013, www.jeffcofairgrounds.com.

8-9 Holiday Arts & Crafts Fair at

Port Townsend Community Center, sponsored by Port Townsend Arts Guild, 360-379-3813, ptartsguild@ yahoo.com.

● ● ● Continued on page 78


1 PACIFIC TRADITIONS

2 ANCESTRAL SPIRITS GALLERY

DAILY 10-6 • 637 WATER ST. 360-385-4770

DAILY • 701 WATER ST. 360-385-0078

Local & nationally recognized native artists of distinction.

“An exquisite art gallery” – National Geographic Traveler

www.PacificTraditions.com

www.ancestralspirits.com

TOWNSEND 3 PORT 4 EARTHENWORKS GALLERY, INC.

DAILY • 715 WATER ST. 360-379-8110 Showcasing quality regional art, sculpture, jewelry, photography, and crafts. Enjoy our waterside garden. www.porttownsendgallery.com

DAILY • 702 WATER ST. 360-385-0328

Fine American Arts and Crafts for the discriminating collector www.earthenworksgallery.com

GROVER GEMS 5 FOREST 6 MAX GALLERY GALLERY

DAILY 9:30-6 • 807 WASHINGTON ST. 360-379-1713

TH-M 11-6 • 820 WATER ST. (UPSTAIRS) 360-385-3037

Highly figured Northwest woods, handcrafted by local artists.

Colorful paintings, prints, cards & children’s books.

www.forestgems.com

www.maxgrover.com

ARTISANS ON JESSE 7 RICHARD WATSON GALLERY 8 TAYLOR

TH-M 11-6 • 820 WATER ST. 360-385-6410

DAILY 10:30-6 • 236 TAYLOR ST. 360-379-1029

“Enchanting, inspiring” -NY Times.

Exhibitions of contemporary art around a core of fine jewelry.

www.richardjessewatson.com

www.artisansontaylor.com

COURTYARD 9 THE 10 WILLIAM’S GALLERY GALLERY

TH-SUN 11-5 • 940 WASHINGTON ST. 360-379-0304

DAILY • 914 WATER ST. 360-385-3630

Colorful paintings by Susan Hazard.

For the naturally sophisticated, a gallery of fine arts and crafts.

www.thecourtyardgallery-pt.com

www.williams-gallery.com

11 WYNWOODS GALLERY &

12 GALLERY 9

DAILY 10-7 940 WATER ST. 360-385-6131 Fine contemporary handcrafted jewelry, beads & treasures. www.wynwoods.com

Olympic Peninsula cooperative of artists and craftspersons.

BEAD STUDIO

DAILY 10-6 • 1012 WATER ST. 360-379-8881

www.gallery-9.com

THE 13 NORTHWIND ARTS CENTER 14 ART MINE TH-M 12-5 • 2409 JEFFERSON ST. 360-379-1086

Juried and invitational shows. www.northwindarts.org

DAILY INN AT PORT HADLOCK, 310 HADLOCK BAY RD. 360-379-8555 3-story contemporary art gallery. www.theartmine.com

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 77


Events November 2008 ● ● ● Continued from page 76

11 Veterans Day Ceremony at

American Legion Post with performance by Port Townsend Summer Band, 360-344-3658, flam@ cablespeed.com.

15 RainFest Cabaret Benefit

Auction sponsored by Jefferson Land Trust, 360-379-9501, www. saveland.org.

15 Centrum Gala Dinner and

Auction, 360-385-3102, ext. 117, 800-733-3608, www.centrum.org.

28-29 Port Townsend Marine

Science Center Gift Shop Sale and fish printing, on pier at Fort Worden State Park, 360-385-5582, www. ptmsc.org.

29 Merchants’ Holiday Open

House in downtown Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, www.ptmainstreet. org.

8 Holiday Open House at Cupola

December 2008 6 Community Treelighting &

Parade with Santa in downtown Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, www.ptmainstreet. org.

TBA Chimacum Arts & Crafts

Fair at Chimacum High School, in support of school activities, 360732-4015, www.olympus.net/community/chimacumarts-craft.

House, sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-385-3628, www. woodenboat.org.

11-14 “A Golden Age Radio

Christmas,” original holiday show produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, www.keycitypublictheatre.org.

13 Port Townsend Community Orchestra Holiday Concert at Chimacum High School auditorium, www.olympus. net/community/ptorchestra.

Getaway in the winter, when Santa Claus launches a Victorian Holidays celebration sponsored by the Port Townsend Main Street Program. Photo by Barney Burke

14 A Jazzy Little Christmas with

Mike Strickland Quartet and Greta Matassa at the Bay Club, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360437-2208, www.plvc.org.

January 2009 16-19 Young Artists Project:

High School Arts Intensive at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 120, www.centrum.org.

24 August, a female vocal quartet

at the Bay Club, sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, www.plvc.org.

February 2009 7 18th annual Shipwrights’

Regatta sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-385-3628, www.woodenboat.org.

13-16 Young Artists Project:

High School Arts Intensive at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 120, www.centrum.org.

● ● ● Continued on page 80 February’s Shipwrights’ Regatta can be wild and windy or, as in 2008, sunny and calm. Photo by Elizabeth T. Becker 78 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


You Haven’t Fully Experienced Port Townsend Until You’ve Been to Aldrich’s Welcome to Aldrich’s! Washington’s Oldest Grocery Store. We have everyday basics and an eclectic mix of the unusual – gourmet, natural, ethnic and imported foods and the most interesting selection of wines and beers in town. Full-service, all-natural meat and seafood to meet your special needs. Fresh local and organic produce, and our own fresh-squeezed, all-natural orange juice. Hot foods and the finest fresh-made Sushi to go. Enjoy our cozy seating area and sunny outdoor deck. Free Wi-Fi. Locally owned since 1895 • 940 Lawrence Street • 385-0500

History is Fun at the Jefferson County Historical Museum

Visit us in the 1892 City Hall 540 Water Street (360) 385-1003 www.jchsmuseum.org

Upper Left: Three children playing on beach. Lower Left: Group portrait of a bicycle team, posed with a bike at the edge of the Cyclodrome Track. Background Photo: A party of about 18 attended the picnic aboard the Regina in honor of the Bashes’ anniversary on June 25, 1909.

Jefferson County Historical Society

The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 79


Discovery Bay Salmon Derby hooks the three-day Presidents’ Day weekend each year, offering a top prize of $3,000. The event is a fundraiser for Discovery Bay Volunteer Fire District 5 in Gardiner. Photo by Scott Sands

12-17 Young Artists Project:

Water World, for Elementary Students at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-3853102, ext. 120, www.centrum.org.

16 Craicmore, Celtic music at the

Bay Club sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, www. plvc.org.

TBA EarthDay EveryDay! cel-

ebrating sustainable living choices with Green Living Expo and other activities, 360-385-2830, www. earthdayeverydaypt.com.

18 Earth Day Spring Cleanup

Events

March 2009

February 2009

1-31 Port Townsend Public

● ● ● Continued from page 78

14-16 33rd Discovery Bay

Salmon Derby sponsored by Discovery Bay Volunteer Fire District 5 in Gardiner, 360-797-7711, www. DiscoBaySalmonDerby.com.

22-27 Young Artists Project:

19 Sea Dogs’ Regatta sponsored

8-13 Young Artists Project:

April-June Spring White Cap

24-26 Port Townsend Bead

19-22 Blues Intensive at Fort

youth talent show at Port Townsend High School auditorium, pmsullivan@olympus.net.

Feb. 20-March 8 13th

Annual Playwrights’ Festival produced by Key City Public Theatre, 360-385-7396, www.keycitypublictheatre.org.

28 Port Townsend Community Orchestra Winter Concert at Chimacum High School auditorium, www.olympus. net/community/ptorchestra.

Meet sponsored by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360-385-3628, www. woodenboat.org.

April 2009

19 John Jorgenson Quintet,

Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 127, www.centrum.org.

18 17th annual Maritime Swap

Library Community Read: Read the same book, with discussion groups, speakers and readings, 360385-3181, www.ptpl.lib.wa.us. Junior High School Arts Intensive at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 120, www.centrum.org.

gypsy jazz at the Bay Club sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360-437-2208, www.plvc.org.

Junior High School Arts Intensive at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 120, www.centrum.org.

in downtown and uptown Port Townsend, sponsored by Port Townsend Main Street Program, 360-385-7911, www.ptmainstreet. org.

Series on Port Townsend Bay, sponsored by Port Townsend Sailing Association, www.ptsail.org.

11 Children’s Festival 9 23rd Annual Stars of Tomorrow April of Art, sponsored by Youth Arts mid-March 26th Annual Fort

Worden Kitemakers Conference at Fort Worden State Park, 425-3929144, www.kitemakers.org.

15 Patricia O’Callaghan Trio,

cabaret at the Bay Club sponsored by Port Ludlow Arts Council, 360437-2208, www.plvc.org.

15-20 Young Artists Project:

Junior High School Arts Intensive at Fort Worden State Park, sponsored by Centrum, 360-385-3102, ext. 120, www.centrum.org.

The Children’s Festival of Art in April provides a daylong, hands-on immersion in the arts for kids. Photo by Guy Scharf 80 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Council, 360-385-0655.

by Wooden Boat Foundation, 360385-3628, www.woodenboat.org. Market at Pope Marine Park Building in Port Townsend, 360385-6131, www.wynwoods.com.

25 Port Townsend Community Orchestra Spring Concert at Chimacum High School auditorium, www.olympus. net/community/ptorchestra.


Jefferson County Fairgrounds

Wonderful unique things for everyone! Come See!

Look at all we offer!

A Place to Camp • A Family Reunion Location A Place to Get Married • Exciting Events • RV Group Destination Vehicle, RV or Boat Storage • 80 Campsites – 18 Full Hookups 40 Power/Water Campsites • 22 Dry Campsites

Year-round Camping • Special Event Camping

Full Hookups, $20 • Partial, $17 • Dry Camping $15 (per night)

8th Annual JeffCo EXPO April 26 & 27, 2008 Jefferson County Fair “Barn to be Wild” Aug. 8, 9, 10, 2008 5th Annual Holiday Fair Nov. 1-2, 2008 7th Annual JeffCo Community Garage Sale March 21, 2009 jeffcofairgrounds@olypen.com • 4907 Landes Street

Peninsula’s Best Kept Secret ART GALLERY Open Tues-Sat: 10 to 5 Kively Center • Port Hadlock 360.385.3858

360/385-1013 • www.jeffcofairgrounds.com

Next Door to Just Stamp It/Just Quilt It

Port townsend school of woodworking

PORT TOWNSEND COMPUTERS A full service computer & cell phone center

PC’s, Mac’s & More In a “crunch” while away from home? Let our CompTIA A+ certified IT technicians solve your computer and cell phone problems. QFC Castle Hill Shopping Center 1200 Sims Way, Suite B Port Townsend M-F 10-6, Sat 10-4 • (360) 379-0605

Offering Instruction in Furniture Making, Cabinet Making, and Traditional Woodcrafts For more information:

Email and wireless connectivity available.

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Phone: 360-344-4455 Email: info@ptwoodschool.com

Shoppers – Ship Your Purchases! EXPERTS in Shipping & Packaging Crating & Freighting

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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 81


Two youngsters touch the marine life in the hands-on tidepools found at the Port Townsend Marine Science Center Marine Exhibit. Photo courtesy of Christina Pivarnik

BE CONNECTED TO YOUR PLANET Port Townsend Marine Science Center: Located in Fort Worden State Park, the center is at 532 Battery Way, on the beach. Exhibit hours vary throughout the year, so check the website at www.ptmsc. org or call 360-385-5582. Admission is $5 for adults, $3 for youths. Sound Experience: To be a visitor, volunteer, teacher or liveaboard adventurer on the schooner Adventuress, visit www. soundexp.org. Quilcene National Fish Hatchery: Located 2 miles south of Quilcene along Highway 101, the hatchery is open from 7:30 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. Hours may change seasonally. Call 360-765-3334.

World of water Getting in touch with life in Jefferson County always brings you to the water. Two organizations actively put the public in contact with marine science: The 26-year-old Port Townsend Marine Science Center at Fort Worden State Park, and Sound Experience, which operates aboard the schooner Adventuress. A third location, the Quilcene National Fish Hatchery, offers a look at how salmon populations are enhanced. This hatch-

82 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

ery raises three of the five species of Pacific salmon: chinook, chum and silver. In Port Townsend, the science center is a small treasure that gives kids of all ages a chance to touch, smell, hear and see marine life in Puget Sound. Two exhibits invite visitors and locals alike to explore and learn about our coastal environment. On the pier, the Marine Exhibit offers tidepools and aquaria featuring marine plants and sea creatures from the waters of Port Townsend

Bay and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The tidepools are filled with marine life you can touch, such as the nubby back of a sea star or the squishy insides of a sea urchin. The center’s Natural History Exhibit features the Northern Puget Sound shoreline, its dramatic geologic history, and the birds and mammals that visit our bluffs and beaches. A focus for the center this year is on how plastics impact the marine world. Out on the water, check out the Adventuress, a gaffrigged, 94-year-old, 136-foot wooden schooner homeported in Port Townsend and operated by Sound Experience. Anyone who’s spent some time gazing out toward Puget Sound will recognize the Adventuress silhouette – her clean lines, two masts with jauntily jutting gaffs, and impressive 5,000-plus square feet of sail. But unless you’ve actually been aboard Adventuress for a public sail or overnight trip, you might be surprised by what goes on when the schooner is under sail. Students learn about plankton, watersheds, marine mammals and resource conservation. While the environmental sciences form the foundational core of Adventuress classes, onboard learning isn’t limited to science. It includes history, sailing, courage – oh, and the entire planet too. So touch it, ride it, smell it – and enjoy Puget Sound.


What about Bob ... “I’m sailing, I’m sailing!”

Annabelle says:

Model Annabelle Teal’s sweater made by Cathy Heuett

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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 83


You know you’re a local when... BE A LOCAL Volunteer. If this area calls to you as “the” place you’d like to be, commit yourself now to getting involved. Aside from what can be bitter local politics, our sense of community remains strong because we volunteer to help our neighbors. what do locals do around here? OK, I am biased (read the bio on this page), but you can find out in The Leader newspaper; check out Community Calendar on www. ptleader.com. Don’t judge a book by its cover, and don’t measure the merit of a man or woman by the paint stains on her Carhartts or the rust on his Volvo. If you want to drive 10 mph to look at the pretty old houses, please keep an eye on your rearview mirror and pull to the side. Locals have seen those houses and have someplace to go at 20 or 25 mph – unless it’s Christmas, when many locals drive slowly to look at outdoor light displays.

You are a visitor on your getaway, but you are a local when you are home. There’s a responsibility that goes with being a local, whether part of a small town, a gated golf course community or a city neighborhood. Locals know the one-way streets. Locals know which way the wind blows and when the tide turns. Locals know the cooks and the wait staff so we know the best places to eat. Locals have a car mechanic and a doctor. You know you’re a local when you’ve got friends with boats and they share their fresh shellfish and salmon. Knowing that “Port Townsend time” means you can show up at 7:05

84 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

for a 7 p.m. committee meeting and still be early – that’s being a local. Locals know when the state troopers are running emphasis patrols. You know you’re a local if you hear someone say Quil-acene and recognize that only people who are really, really StORy By

Patrick J. Sullivan Patrick J. Sullivan has lived 19 years in Port Townsend, short of the minimum 20 years it usually takes to be considered a local. But he earned his local citizenship early by marrying into a Jefferson County pioneer family. He’s a student of local history and customs; look for his efforts on www.ptleader.com.

You are a local when you know a member of the Port Townsend Precision Lawn Chair Drill Team, which appears during the Rhododendron Festival Grand Parade in May. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

local say it that way. If someone says Duh-bob instead of Day-bob, he is not a local. Being a local means taking a trip to the market and spending more time chatting with people than actually shopping for groceries. You know you’re a local when you stay off the brake pedal as you turn the corner and see six blacktail deer grazing along the city street. These are city deer, born in backyards and raised to ignore traffic and frequent the tastiest gardens. You do brake for dogs, cats and coyotes. You know you’re a local when you see Jerry from Port


Ludlow wearing sandals, shorts and an aloha shirt in the dead of winter and don’t give it a second look. That’s because locals respect other locals for being quirky. Speaking of quirky, you know you’re a local when you have a choice of costumes to wear for Halloween – or someone calls you to borrow some Kinetic festival attire. This is an awesome dress-up town. When you treat delivery trucks parking in the

Locals and visitors alike can enjoy the quiet of a fall day at Fort Worden State Park. Photo by Allison Arthur

middle of a downtown street as a daily occurrence, as it can be, and drive slowly around without flinching, then you are a local. You know you’re a local when you have rubber wading boots and a rain/wind jacket handy. You’re a local if you stake out a place along Lawrence Street to gather ● ● ● Continued on page 86 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 85


The Port Townsend Peace Movement’s 2008 Community Peace Portrait drew a record crowd of 853 residents. Photo by Steve Mullensky

Local ● ● ● Continued from page 85

friends and family to watch the Rhododendron Festival Parade. When your favorite table at the coffeehouse is taken by a covey of tourists, and you get miffed at having to sit on the other side of the room, well, you’re a local. (I hope you enjoyed Barney’s seat!) You know you’re a local when the obituary page of The Leader newspaper is one of the fi rst things you read. You know you’re a local if you understand that Port Townsend has always been about serving visitors: the thirsty sailing crews arriving from Shanghai, tenderfeet shipping north (last on, fi rst off) to the Klondike Gold Rush, and coast artillery soldiers with payday pockets. Now it’s about serving tourists in RVs and on cycles and in trucks and small cars – often with bikes or kayaks racked on top. Some of us live here and some are visitors, and that’s the way Port Townsend has always been.

No matter which way you look in Port Townsend, you might see one of our city deer. Please don’t call animal control – the deer are locals. Photo by Barney Burke 86 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader


Voluntary Eelgrass Protection Zone WELCOME BOATERS! Historic buildings are just one precious resource in our seaport town—below the waters of Port Townsend Bay are acres of eelgrass beds. Eelgrass reduces shoreline erosion and provides critical habitat for salmon, crab and more. It’s a risky place to anchor—loose sediments provide poor anchor holding and the fragile plants are easily damaged and uprooted. The Voluntary Eelgrass Protection Zone is identified by seasonal marker buoys most of the year, but when buoys are not in place, please anchor seaward of Port Townsends’s many docks and wharfs. Anchor Out for Safety & Salmon! Shoreline Features 1. Point Hudson Marina 2. NW Maritime Center Dock 3. City Dock 4. Quincy Street Dock/ Old Ferry Terminal 5. Union Wharf 6. Swains/PT Plaza 7. WA State Ferry Terminal - avoid 500’ security zone 8. Indian Point

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2355 Sims Way • Port Townsend 360-385-0124 The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 87


Feel free to enjoy all that the Olympic Peninsula has to offer. And don’t worry about getting dirty or needing a little help cleaning up. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan Road, Port Hadlock; call 360-385-3831. Tip: Leave items of value in your trunk or keep them with you. washington State Patrol does not have an office in Jefferson County, but it does have a station in Discovery Bay that is not a service center. Call toll-free, 800-283-7808. City of Port townsend Police Department is at 607 Water St.; call 360-385-2322.

Get clean, patched up, find Fido Oh dear, there’s so much to do here, you might just get dirty, get winded and lose Spot, who jumped out of your car for a beach getaway himself. There are places to go in Jefferson County for help with all the unexpected boo-boos that crop up on a day or week retreat from the real world. Lose your best four-legged friend while napping in the sun? Need to wash laundry after a long, hot hike? Eat too much good food and need a refill of that heartburn medication? In case you have a mishap, here are a few tips to smooth out your experience. ❚ CLEAN IT OFF Self-service laundries can be found in Port Townsend and Port Hadlock. Port Townsend Laundromat and Car Wash is at 2115 Sims Way. Carol’s Laundromat is at 2334 Washington St. Port Townsend Hospitality is in Fort Worden State Park. And Port Hadlock Speed Wash and Dry Cleaning is at 1840 Irondale Road. ❚ FILL IT UP There are several pharmacies in Jefferson County, including at QFC Food Center in Port Hadlock, 1890 Irondale Road, 360-385-1900; Safeway Food & Drug in Port Townsend, 442 W. Sims Way, 360-385-2860; and Don’s Pharmacy in Port Townsend, 1151 Water St., 360-385-2622.

❚ TAKE CARE OF YOURSELF Jefferson Healthcare is the only hospital in Jefferson County, and it offers an emergency services department onsite at 834 Sheridan St. in Port Townsend. There also is an Express Care, akin to an urgent-care facility, within the hospital, for medical issues that are not life threatening. Hours for Express Care are 10 a.m.-10 p.m. daily. Madrona Hill Urgent Care is at 2500 Sims Way, Suite 1. Hours are 9 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday through Friday, 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Saturday, and 10 a.m.-2 p.m. Sunday. Call 360-344-3663. Port Hadlock Medical Center is at 121 Oak Bay Road in the Kivley Center in Port Hadlock. Open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday through Friday, the clinic offers both primary care and urgent care. Call 360-379-6737.

88 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Jefferson County sheriff ’s deputy Alex Mintz loves animals and is often the first person called to pick up a lost or abandoned dog. Photo by Allison Arthur ❚ TAKE CARE OF OTHERS In the event of an emergency of any kind, call 911. If you lose something, check with the Jefferson County Sheriff ’s Office, 79 Elkins

❚ FIND FIDO OR FLUFFY Jefferson County Animal Services is at 112 Critter Lane in Port Townsend; call 360-3853292. Hours are 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday. Leave a message with a description of your lost pet and how you can be reached. The shelter also takes stray cats. If you get lonely on your vacation, stop by and adopt! If you see an injured animal, call here for information on how to find help. ❚ FIND YOUR WAY Olympic Peninsula Gateway Visitor Center: Just a hop off State Highway 104 on Highway 19, on the left heading north, is the Olympic Peninsula Gateway Visitor Center operated by the Jefferson County Historical Society. Stop in for maps, guides and good information on where to find uncrowded beaches, the best place to check out the Olympic rain forests, a good place to hike, and information and artifacts on Jefferson County history. Volunteers run the center and have a good grip on local information. Sani-Kan and public phone are available. The center is open daily at 93 Beaver Valley Road. Contact 360-437-0120, email gatewayvcr@olympus. net, or visit www.olympicpeninsula.org. Port townsend Visitor Center: The visitor center has maps of bike routes through Chimacum and Marrowstone Island as well as a phone service for calling local hotels and bed and breakfasts. Friendly volunteers are available at 2437 E. Sims Way in Port Townsend, or call the Port Townsend Chamber of Commerce at 360-385-2272 or 888-365-6978. The location might change in 2008 to the Haines Place Park-and-Ride lot just off Sims Way near the Port Townsend Safeway. Visit www.enjoypt.com.


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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 89


Sidewalk sales are lively events in Port Townsend. Photo by Patrick J. Sullivan

INDEX TO ADVERTISERS A Suite at the Fountain........................ 15 About Time ......................................... 71 Abracadabra .........................................7 Aisai Bento ......................................... 27 Ajax Cafe............................................. 27 Alcyone Sailing .....................................7 Aldrich’s .............................................. 79 All About Accommodations.................. 15 Allstate Insurance ............................... 89 Ancestral Spirits Gallery ...................... 51 Art Mine Gallery .................................. 51 Artisans on Taylor.......................... 51, 63 BaDd Habit Screenprinting & Embroidery................................ 89 Beach Getaway on Oak Bay.................. 13 Belleville Park Resort .......................... 77 Belltower Art .................................5, 7, 9 Belmont Hotel & Restaurant................ 21 Bergstrom’s Antique & Classic Auto ...... 35 Bishop Victorian Hotel ......................... 13 Black Ball Transport Ferry ......................2 Bob Fitzpatrick Construction................ 89 Candle Store ....................................... 35 Captain Bry’s Charters ......................... 53 Castle Key at Manresa Castle ............... 23 Centrum ............................................. 92 Cherry Blossom .....................................7 Citriadora............................................ 83 City of Port Townsend.......................... 45 Coast Artillery Museum ....................... 83 Completely Puzzled ............................. 73

Courtyard Gallery ................................ 51 Crafts Cottage ..................................... 89 Dana Pointe Interiors .......................... 57 Dinah’s Yarn ........................................ 83 Diva Yarn ............................................ 75 Dog & I Grooming & Boarding.............. 57 Down Home Charters .......................... 89 Dream City Market & Cafe.................... 23 Dupuis Restaurant .............................. 23 Earthenworks Gallery .................... 51, 75 Edge to Edge ....................................... 19 Elevated Ice Cream & Candy Shop ........ 39 Embellishments .................................. 75 FairWinds Winery ................................ 43 Far Reaches Farm ..................................9 Fins Coastal Cuisine ............................. 31 Forest Gems Gallery ...................... 39, 51 Fort Worden State Park ....................... 37 Fountain Cafe................................ 27, 35 Frameworks ........................................ 37 Gallery 9 ............................................. 51 Gardens at Four Corners ...................... 19 Garfield House .................................... 15 Gary’s Car & Truck Sales ....................... 19 Genetic Link Bicycles ........................... 57 Golden China Restaurant ..................... 31 Green Eyeshade.....................................9 Hadlock Building Supply & Rental ....... 61 Hadlock Motel ..................................... 39 Harborside Inn .................................... 11 Hobuck Beach Resort .......................... 49

90 2008 Getaway The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader

Hostelling Internt’l Olympic Hostel ...... 19 Hudson Point Cafe ............................... 25 Hudson Point Marina & RV Park ........... 33 Imprint Bookstore ............................... 75 Inn at Port Hadlock ............................. 15 Insatiables Bookstore .......................... 35 James House Bed & Breakfast Inn ........ 13 Jefferson Co. Fair Association ............... 81 Jefferson Co. Historical Museum .......... 79 Jefferson Co. Marine Resources ............ 87 Jefferson Co Parks & Recreation ........... 21 Jefferson Transit....................................7 John L. Scott Real Estate .......................9 Key City Public Theatre ........................ 59 Kimball & Landis Builders......................9 Kitchen Kove ....................................... 75 Landfall Restaurant ............................ 29 Lanza’s Ristorante ............................... 29 Lehani’s Deli & Coffee .......................... 35 Les Schwab Tire Center ........................ 87 Lodging Tax Advisory Committee .... 68-69 Maestrale ........................................... 81 Makah Museum .................................. 77 Maricee............................................... 39 Max Grover Gallery .............................. 51 McDonald Insurance Group ............... 83 Mean Bean Coffee & Crepes ................. 37 Mezzaluna Lounge .............................. 35 Monsoon............................................. 89 Ms. Bee Haven Antiques ...................... 73 Nifty Fifty’s Soda Fountain................... 25 Northwest Maritime Center ................. 65 Northwest Native Expressions ............. 83 Northwind Arts Center ........................ 51 Olympic Bus Lines ............................... 33 Olympic Game Farm ............................ 53 Olympic Music Festival ........................ 57 Olympic Peninsula Eagles Football Team ...59 Olympic View Terrace Condos .................5 Pacific Traditions Gallery ..................... 51 Palace Hotel ........................................ 17 Pane d’Amore Bakery .......................... 39 Paris Found ......................................... 83 Perfect Season .................................... 33 Personalize It! ..................................... 73 Port Hadlock Chamber of Commerce .... 89 Port Ludlow Chamber of Commerce ..... 57 Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader .......... 63, 73 Port Townsend Aircraft Services ........... 19 Port Townsend Antique Mall................ 19 Port Townsend Athletic Club ................ 75 Port Townsend Computers ................... 81 Port Townsend Farmers Market ........... 43

Port Townsend Film Festival ................ 59 Port Townsend Gallery ........................ 51 Port Townsend Golf Club........................7 Port Townsend Inn .............................. 17 Port Townsend Main Street ................. 43 Port Townsend Marathon Association .. 53 Port Townsend School of Woodworking ........................... 81 Posh Hair Salon & Day Spa ................... 73 Public House Restaurant ..................... 27 Puget Sound Express .............................2 Pygmy Boats, Inc. ............................... 71 Queen Victoria Hotel ........................... 77 Quilcene/Brinnon Chamber of Commerce .................. 77 Quimper Sound & The Analog Lounge .. 65 Religious Organizations....................... 41 Re/Max First........................................ 91 Re/Max First - Teren MacLeod ................5 Richard Jesse Watson Gallery............... 51 Salal Cafe ............................................ 29 Salon & Beauty Supply, Port Hadlock ... 63 Sea Hag .............................................. 35 Seams To Last ..................................... 75 Secret Gardens Nursery .........................5 Silverwater Cafe............................ 29, 35 Sirens Pub........................................... 25 Sleepy Otter Quilts & Crafts ................. 73 Snug Harbor Cafe ................................ 89 Sol Imports ......................................... 73 Soul Garden Art & Gift Gallery ............. 81 Sport Townsend .................................. 59 Strait Mortgage .................................. 19 Subway Sandwiches ............................ 25 Summer House Design ........................ 37 Swain’s Outdoor & More ...................... 45 Swan Hotel ......................................... 13 T’s Restaurant ..................................... 23 Tides Inn ............................................. 17 Twisted Ewe ........................................ 35 Tyler Street Cafe .................................. 31 UPS Store ............................................ 81 Vintage Hardware ............................... 37 Washington State Ferries .................... 71 Wandering Angus..................................7 Wandering Wardrobe .......................... 35 Water Street Brewing .......................... 29 Wholistic Skin Therapy Center ............. 35 Wild Sage, World Teas, Tonics & Herbs .. 35 Wildernest Outdoor Store .................... 19 William’s Gallery ........................... 51, 83 Windermere - Port Townsend .............. 55 Windermere - Quilcene, Brinnon, Port Hadlock & Port Ludlow .......... 53 Wine Seller ......................................... 77 Wolves’ Den, Winterchill Farm Inc. ....... 17 Wooden Boat Festival.......................... 85 WSU Extension Office ............................3 Wynwoods Gallery & Bead Studio .. 51, 75


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The Port Townsend & Jefferson County Leader 2008 Getaway 91



2008 Getaway Guide