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WINTER 2012
THE BUSINESS OF FASHION The Spanish Market: Biggest Players Interview with
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Spring Summer 2013 Trends
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116 Nº 15 - winter 2012
CONTENTS 12 CORPORATE: The Ryder Cup Effect And The American Example
LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
16 CELEBRITY: Leonardo DiCaprio
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EDITOR Ignacio Pérez Díaz
22 CORPORATE: Education: The Gateway to Innovation 26 HELICOPTER: Eurocopter EC 135
ignacio@lazagaleta.com
28 AIRCRAFT: Beechcraft King Air 350i, King of Innovation
ASSISTANT EDITOR Alejandra García Farfán
32 CAR: 1955 Mercedes-Benz 300SL ‘Gullwing’ Coupe
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38 WATCH: The Most Expensive Watches
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40 YACHT: Island-e-motion by MCM Designstudio 42 GOURMET: Vintry Fine Wines
ADVERTISING marketing@lazagaleta.com
46 GOURMET: The Ultimate Holiday Shopping Guide www.lazagaleta.com
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50 FASHION: The Boom In Spanish Fashion
Visit us on Facebook at La Zagaleta Official
In Times Of Crisis
64 INTERVIEW: Ion Fiz
And on our Youtube Channel:
70 ELEGANCE: Dsquared2 Classic
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76 ART: Renoir, La Vie en Peinture
Follow us on Twitter: @La_Zagaleta
82 GOURMET: Wine Accessories
La Zagaleta Lifestyle Magazine is a registered tradmark of the Spanish Patent and Trademark Office. All rights reserved. Under the provisions of Articles 8 and 32.1, second paragraph, of the Copyright Act, the reproduction, distribution and public communication, including their means of making available all or part of the contents of this publication for commercial purpose, is expressly prohibited without the permission of the publisher of the publication, La Zagaleta SLU.
84 PHOTOGRAPHY: Robert Doisneau, Paris en Liberté
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86 DESIGN: Outdoor Emotions 94 CORPORATE: Fauna of La Zagaleta 98 BOOKS 99 CORPORATE: La Zagaleta Recommends
SUMMER 2012
100 HISTORY: The Oxford-Cambridge Race ®
WINTER 2012
116 CELEBRITY: Anne Hathaway
A trendsetting, lifestyle magazine
122 JEWELLERY: The Art of Cartier
LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE
Published by La Zagaleta S.L.U. a company part of La Zagaleta Group - Nº15 - Price: 10€
128 NEWS: Ermenegildo Zegna & Range Rover
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THE BUSINESS OF FASHION The Spanish Market: Biggest Players Interview with
ION FIz Nº14
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THE ROAD TO FORO LA ZAGALETA
EDUCATION + INNOVATION
Our Experts Speak
LEONARDO DICAPRIO A singular, everlasting icon LUXURY SPEAKS
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La Zagaleta Lifestyle Magazine is published by La Zagaleta S.L.U. Ctra. de Ronda, Km. 38,5 Apdo. Correos, 244, 29679 Benahavís - Málaga (España) Tel: +34 952 855 450 - Fax: +34 952 855 313 C.I.F.:B-29533932. Deposito Legal Num. MA 517-2008.
Cover photo: American actor Leonardo Di Caprio arrives at Rome’s Auditorium for the premiere of the movie “The Departed,” presented at the 1st Rome Film Festival.
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EDITOR’S LETTER
Querido Lector:
Dear Reader,
La puesta en marcha del “banco malo” por el gobierno Español a final del presente año puede significar, junto con la dura reforma laboral, otras medidas de ajuste fiscal y en el entorno difícil en el que nos encontramos, un punto de inflexión en cuanto al mayor problema de la recuperación de nuestra economía. Se trata de abordar, de una vez por todas, el enorme problema surgido de burbuja inmobiliaria que tanta desconfianza ha generado en el mercado y de ponerle cifras a las pérdidas. Aunque muy doloroso, este proceso, “publicitado” internacionalmente puede generar interés por parte de inversores en busca de oportunidades. Si bien es cierto que nadie puede pronosticar el momento idóneo para “entrar” en un mercado, estar en un escenario muy interesante donde tomar posiciones a medio y largo plazo pueden posicionarle a uno de manera muy ventajosa de cara al próximo ciclo alcista, cuanto quiera que ocurra.
The creation of the “bad bank” by the Spanish government at the end of this year may represent an inflection point in terms of the recovery of our economy, along with the harsh labor reforms, other fiscal adjustment measures and the difficult situation we are facing. It is a question of tackling once and for all the huge problem arising from the real estate bubble that has created so much distrust in the market and put figures to the losses. Although extremely painful, this internationally “publicized” process may generate the interest of investors seeking opportunities. Although it is true that nobody can foresee the ideal moment to “enter” a market, we are faced with an interesting scenario in which taking medium and long term positions may lead to a more advantageous position in the next upward cycle, whenever that may be. One of the national industries that is reaping the fruits of its investment is the textile sector. According to latest figures, this sector invoiced around 11,100 million Euros in 2011 and employed over 104,000 people. In this edition, we have carried out an extensive analysis of the market and gathered comments from designers and directors of leading Spanish brands, or such important events as the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid and highlighting the key “players” of today.
Una de las industrias a nivel nacional que está recogiendo los frutos de su inversión es el sector textil. Según los últimos datos, este sector facturó unos 11.100 millones de Euros en 2011 y emplearon a más de 104.000 personas. En este número hacemos una extensa disección del mercado, contando con las observaciones de diseñadores y directores de las grandes marcas españolas, o de tan importantes eventos con el Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid y destacando a los “jugadores” más relevantes en estos tiempos.
Furthermore, there is an interview with Basque designer, Ion Fiz, and an advance of international fashion for Spring/Summer 2013.
Además, podrán ver una entrevista con el diseñador vasco Ion Fiz y un avance de la moda internacional para primavera/verano 2013. Insisto en que es tiempo para más formación y educación. La crisis en la que se encuentran los países del sur de Europa han puesto de manifiesto la falta de competitividad en algunos campos de la economía española. Esto tiene que ver en gran parte con la educación o, mejor dicho, con la falta de formación especializada o incluso simplemente de idiomas.En este sentido y como tema de actualidad, le pedimos opinión a algunos representantes de instituciones educativas sobre lo que está pasando y por qué estamos tardando tanto en adaptarnos, por ejemplo, al mundo digital.
I must emphasize that now is a time for further training and education. The crisis in which the southern European countries are immersed has highlighted the lack of competitiveness in some areas of the Spanish economy.This is largely due to education, or rather, the lack of specialised and language training. In this respect and as a topic of current interest, we have asked several representatives of educational institutions for their opinion of what is happening and why we are taking so long to adapt to the digital world, for example.
En 2013 pasaremos a editar dos números de nuestra revista Lifestyle, con fechas de publicación en mayo y noviembre. Debido a los diversos proyectos programados en el extranjero, nos gustaría dedicarnos a partes iguales a lo que será la marca de nuestra identidad corporativa en los próximos años. Esperemos que vean los resultados con la misma ilusión que tenemos a la hora de desarrollarlos. Mientras tanto, nos pueden seguir en Twitter (@La_Zagaleta) y en Facebook (OfficialLaZagaleta).
In 2013, we will publish two editions of our Lifestyle magazine in May and November. Due to the diverse projects scheduled abroad, we would like to devote our time equally to what will be our corporate identity brand over the forthcoming years.We hope that you will enjoy the results with the same excitement as we get from developing them. Meanwhile, you can follow us on Twitter (@La_Zagaleta) and on Facebook (OfficialLaZagaleta).
Les deseo una feliz entrada en 2013 y nos vemos pronto!
I wish you all the best for 2013 and see you soon!
www.lazagaleta.com
Ignacio Pérez Díaz - Editor, La Zagaleta Lifestyle Magazine
A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE 10
www.lazagaleta.com A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE
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by Jacobo Cestino
THE RYDER CUP EFFECT AND THE AMERICAN EXAMPLE I would like to share two reflections with you: one about the Ryder Cup, which was held in Chicago at the end of September, and another about golf, or more precisely, the golf business in the USA.
of its citizens as a group is a question that goes beyond politics or the economy and has more to do with history and the individual emotions and conscience of its citizens.
Just a couple of months ago, we witnessed how the European Ryder Cup team made an extraordinary comeback on the last day of the competition, leading to an unprecedented victory in the history of such a prestigious competition.
Personally, I do not feel that the European feeling is inbred in Europe’s citizens. In fact, if I am not mistaken, I cannot recall a single sporting competition with the exception of the Ryder Cup in which Europe participates as one, and precisely this reflection is the object of this article.
Certainly, the memory of the great Severiano Ballesteros, who I first met in person in 1988 at the APG-Larios Tournament which was held in Torrequebrada, increased the motivation for the team which, on this occasion, was captained by one of his best friends, the great player, José María Olazábal.
The USA is probably the country in which the patriotic pride of its citizens, regardless of their political preferences, whether they be Democratic or Republican, has turned it into an example of survival, not only in the sporting arena but particularly in all of the stages of its short history in which it has been subject to economic and military hardship.
The Ryder Cup is a competition that is held every two years and challenges teams from Europe and the United States. The Ryder Cup came about in 1926. At that time, the teams were made up of players from the USA on one hand and from Great Britain on the other. Following more than 45 years of American superiority, over which period the British team was triumphant on just one occasion, players from Ireland were allowed to form part of the team. Later in 1979, it was decided that players from Continental Europe could form part of the team, which made the competition much more competitive and disputed. Nowadays, the teams and the media management of the competition are handled jointly by the U.S. P.G.A and the P.G.A European Tour.
However, in spite of this, a small group of twelve golf players from different European countries managed to come back from a scoreboard that appeared to be out of their reach on the eve of the final day of play, which should invite reflection on what our political and monetary union could achieve if our politicians and bureaucrats managed to hit the key that would move our conscience like that of the American people. The second reflection I would like to make is related to my recent ten-day trip to Florida to rest and play golf. I was lucky enough to play on different golf courses for seven consecutive days: Crandon Park, Biltmore, Grand Cypress Resort (Nicklaus Signature Course and Links Course), Lake Nona and the
Whereby Europe is a continent as well as a monetary and political union with the objective of jointly managing the interests of its member countries, it is no less certain that the European feeling 12
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EUROPEAN RYDER CUP TEAM, 2012.
TURNBERRY ISLE, MIAMI
two courses at the Turnberry Isle Resort.
Courses of Andalusia by the Parliament of Andalusia.
I saw several common denominators at each of the Resorts I visited. Service and client attention was exceptional from arrival by car to the “bag drop” area. On the other hand, the upkeep was excellent, with the exception of Crandon Park, which was simply correct. The design of the courses had been carefully chosen: the greens, the bunkers, the orientation of the tees and every element of design had been considered and had a specific objective.
“If we intend to compete with the best “Resorts” in the world, we must build the best courses, the best hotels and the best housing developments, and the prohibition on the transformation of land, which is limited to 30%, is clearly undermining the capacity of the best Architects and Golf Course Designers and will certainly not attract private capital from home or abroad to invest in first rate projects in Andalusia”.
The two most remarkable aspects that I noticed were the reasonable prices (cheaper than those in the tourist areas of Andalusia where there is a larger concentration of golf courses) and the perfect integration of the golf courses with all the surrounding residential, hotel and service buildings.
If we add to this the traditional lack of training and service in our sector, along with the often erratic pricing policy, we can easily reach the conclusion that despite having a better climate than Florida, it is impossible to get close to the American dream, as far as golf and tourism are concerned. We must therefore continue fighting and working towards these objectives if we truly wish to be competitive.
Turnberry Isle Resort, which is located in the heart of the city of Miami and is surrounded by streets with traffic, avenues, tall buildings and an immense hotel, deserves special mention. Everything seemed to fit in perfectly even with all of these elements around.
Jacobo Cestino is the Managing Director of La Zagaleta. He holds a degree in law from the University of Malaga, a Masters in Business Management and Administration from ESESA/EOI. He was the recipient of the Malaga Economics Award in 1998.
I would like to remind you of something I wrote in this publication some time ago regarding the passing of the Decree on the Golf 13
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por Jacobo Cestino
EL EFECTO RYDER CUP Y EL EJEMPLO AMERICANO Me gustaría compartir con Vds. dos reflexiones, una sobre la reciente Ryder Cup disputada en Chicago al final del mes de septiembre y otra sobre el golf, o mejor dicho, el negocio del golf en los EEUU.
Siendo Europa un continente y una unión monetaria y política con el objetivo de gestionar comúnmente los intereses de los países que la conforman, no es menos cierto que el sentimiento europeo de sus ciudadanos como colectivo es una cuestión que trasciende a la política o a la economía y que está más relacionada con la historia y por qué no, con las emociones y la conciencia de sus ciudadanos tomados individualmente.
Hace tan sólo unos meses hemos sido testigos de la extraordinaria remontada que el equipo europeo de la Ryder Cup consiguió en la última jornada de competición y que supuso un triunfo sin precedentes en la historia de tan prestigiosa competición.
No creo personalmente que el sentimiento europeo esté asentado en los ciudadanos de Europa, de hecho no recuerdo, salvo error, una sola competición deportiva con excepción de la Ryder Cup en la que Europa participe unida, y es precisamente esa la reflexión objeto de este artículo.
Sin duda el recuerdo del genial Severiano Ballesteros, al que tuve la ocasión de conocer personalmente por primera vez en 1988 durante el Torneo APG-Larios que se disputó en Torrequebrada, ha supuesto un plus de motivación para el equipo capitaneado en esta ocasión por el que fue uno de sus mejores amigos, el también genial jugador, José María Olazábal.
Es EEUU probablemente aquel país cuyo orgullo patriótico de sus ciudadanos, con independencia de sus preferencias políticas, demócratas o republicanas, le ha hecho un ejemplo de superación no sólo en lo deportivo sino muy especialmente en todas las etapas de su corta historia en las que ha atravesado por dificultades económicas y bélicas.
La Ryder Cup es una competición que se celebra cada dos años y que desafía a los equipos de Europa y los Estados Unidos. La Ryder Cup nació en 1926. Entonces los equipos estaban compuestos por jugadores de los EEUU por una parte y de Gran Bretaña por otra.Tras más de 45 años de superioridad americana, ya que los británicos sólo lograron el triunfo una vez en todos esos años, jugadores de Irlanda comenzaron a formar parte del equipo. Posteriormente en 1979, se decidió que jugadores de la Europa Continental formaran parte del equipo, lo que hizo que la competición fuera mucho más competitiva y disputada. En la actualidad los equipos así como la gestión mediática de la competición son administrados conjuntamente por la U.S. P.G.A y el P.G.A European Tour.
Pues a pesar de ello, un pequeño grupo de doce jugadores de golf de diferentes países de Europa consiguió remontar un marcador que se antojaba inalcanzable la víspera de la jornada final, lo que nos debería invitar a reflexionar sobre lo que nuestra Unión política y monetaria podría conseguir si nuestros políticos y burócratas consiguieran dar con la tecla que moviera nuestra conciencia al igual que lo hace el pueblo americano.
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La segunda reflexión que me gustaría hacerles tiene que ver con el reciente viaje que hice a Florida para descansar y jugar al golf por espacio de diez días.
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todo parecía encajar perfectamente. Me gustaría recordarles lo que escribí hace ya bastante tiempo en esta misma revista con motivo de la aprobación por parte del Parlamento de Andaluz del Decreto de Campos de Golf de Andalucía.
Tuve la suerte de jugar siete días consecutivos en diferentes campos de golf. Crandon Park, Biltmore, Grand Cypress Resort (Nicklaus Signature Course y Links Course), Lake Nona y los dos campos de Turnberry Isle Resort.
“Si queremos competir con los mejores “Resorts” del mundo debemos construir los mejores campos, los mejores hoteles y las mejores urbanizaciones, y esta prohibición sobre la transformación de los terrenos con un límite del 30% está claramente limitando la capacidad de los mejores Arquitectos y Diseñadores de Campos de Golf y desde luego no atraerá capital privado nacional o extranjero para invertir en proyectos de primer nivel dentro de Andalucía.“
Observé varios denominadores comunes en cada uno de los Resorts que visité. El servicio y atención al cliente era excepcional desde que uno llega con su coche a la zona de “bag drop”. Por otra parte las condiciones de mantenimiento eran sobresalientes con la excepción de Crandon Park donde eran simplemente correctas. El diseño de los campos estaba elegido a conciencia, los greens, los bunkers, la orientación de los tees y cualquier elemento de diseño estaba pensado y tenía su objetivo concreto.
Si a todo ello le añadimos la histórica carencia en formación y servicio de nuestro sector así como la muchas veces errática política de precios, podemos llegar fácilmente a la conclusión que incluso teniendo un mejor clima que Florida parece imposible siquiera acercarse a ese sueño americano, en lo que al golf y al turismo se refiere.
Los dos aspectos más sobresalientes que pude constatar fueron la razonabilidad de los precios (más baratos que los de las zonas turísticas de Andalucía donde hay más concentración de campos de golf) y lo perfectamente integradas que estaban todas las construcciones, residenciales, hoteleras y de servicios con los campos de golf alrededor del cual se encontraban.
Debemos, por tanto, seguir luchando y trabajando por esos objetivos si de verdad queremos ser competitivos.
Especial mención merece el caso de Turnberry Isle Resort que se encuentra en el centro de la ciudad de Miami y rodeado tanto por calles con tráfico, avenidas, edificios muy altos y un hotel de tamaño más que considerable. Incluso con todos esos elementos alrededor,
Jacobo Cestino es el Director General de La Zagaleta. Es licenciado en Derecho por la Universidad de Málaga, Máster en Dirección y Administración de Empresas por ESESA/EOI. En 1998 fue galardonado con el Premio Málaga de Economía.
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WITH HIS OWN ESSENCE
DICAPRIO RULES
HE WALKS LIKE CARY GRANT, DRESSES LIKE GARY COOPER AND APPEARS TO BE A CROSS BETWEEN HUMPHREY BOGART AND JAMES DEAN. HE BRINGS TOGETHER THE BEST OF CLASSIC FILMS AND REPRESENTS THE GREAT GENERATION OF THE FUTURE. HE IS AT EASE IN HIS ROLES LIKE FRED ASTAIRE, EVEN THOUGH THEY ARE THE UGLY FIGURES DISMISSED BY LIFE. HE IS THE ETERNAL RIVER PHOENIX WHO LIVES AND ACTS LIKE LEONARDO DICAPRIO. “As a little kid growing up in Hollywood, I was called ‘a little crazy’. And now I guess I’m still that way”. When Leonardo DiCaprio lived with his mother in one of the poorest neighbourhoods of Los Angeles, little could he imagine that he would become one of the most sought-after actors in Hollywood. He called the place where he lived “The Hollywood Ghettos”, as the hope of becoming successful, getting ahead and leaving those streets and all their problems was pretty scarce. At times, determination and hard work do not guarantee triumph or success. However, Leonardo DiCaprio was born to be one of the icons of not only the American but also the international film industry, becoming one of the most sought and desired faces and one of the best paid actors in Hollywood. “I lived in Hollywood and, ironically, I didn’t know you could just go out and get an agent and go on auditions and try and become an actor, I thought it was like a Masonic thing, like a blood line you had to belong to - until I was 13.Then I realised what you had to do. It is the one thing I know I want to do for the rest of my life”.What does Leonardo DiCaprio have to have left the bad memories and economic problems behind and risen to stardom in such a brilliant way? What does DiCaprio have for Kate Winslet, for example, a close friend of the actor, to call him “the best actor of his generation”? What has he got that directors of the stature of Spielberg, Mendes or Scorsese want him in their films at all costs? A special light shines on Leonardo DiCaprio. Ever since “What’s Eating Gilbert Grape”, the film in which his character is mentally handicapped, he has been a Hollywood heartthrob in the making; a hero willing to dive in mud with his childlike eyes to become someone like Robert De Niro and Jack Nicholson, mirrors of
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inspiration. He is potentially a genius actor, an actor trapped in a child’s body who needed to take on difficult roles, complicated characters in order to find himself. Whilst other actors use acting to escape from themselves, he needed it to find himself, to get increasingly closer to a Leonardo he recognises, as if each performance eliminated one of his bones but he recovered two or three in the final exchange. He once said: “The best thing about acting is that I get to lose myself in another character and actually get paid for it. It’s a great outlet. As for myself, I’m not sure who I am. It seems that I change every day”. Perhaps, that’s why acting was always his lifeline. Not only does he prove to be professional in his work but he works profusely to live up to expectations, extending his art to every corner of the film, repeatedly turning it into a box office hit.
I take what I do very seriously, and when I’m on the set that’s all I focus on, so my vice is to hang out with my friends and talk about absolutely nothing of importance whatsoever and act like a complete idiot because I’ve got to filter out a lot of the serious stuff I’m dealing with all the time. It’s like therapy to just be a complete idiot with my friends and it’s fantastic.
and imagination of others, Leonardo DiCaprio has become a man, a great actor who retains a child’s gaze in his eyes and despite everything, knows how to act and cut open characters like an experienced surgeon. DiCaprio needs to reconcile with part of his life that he may not have been able to fully enjoy; hence his need to do away with the established rules by which an actor as famous as him should abide. He takes off the costumes, the many disguises that he has to put on every day, dons a sports jacket and casual trousers and is once more the young lad with his whole life before him, his whole future in his hands, like the pilot he played in “Catch me if you can”. He does not forget how ephemeral life is. He still remembers that night when his idol, River Phoenix, passed by him before leaving for The Viper Room, where he eventually passed away. He learnt a very important lesson then: life is much more than what it seems to be: shorter, more special, more mischievous. That’s why DiCaprio goes back to being the “crazy boy” he always was. He knows that one of life’s secrets lies here. He also learnt the fine line of irony: three
“I kind of feel like the same person except more time has gone by. I hate to say that I feel like an adult now. I have to admit I wish I was still 18. After all, even through the time while I was representing that wild kid I really wasn’t. I was just living my life”. He still has the skin of what made him famous, the skin of Romeo directed by Baz Luhrmann or the child that tries to find a house in the internationally successful series “Growing Pains”. His yearning to save himself from Jack Dawson in Titanic lies within, along with the will to be a good person of his character in “Shutter Island”. He also feels the need to be a good husband, a good father, a talented worker, like his character in “Revolutionary Road”. Searching for himself and finding out who he really is through the obsessions
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of the roles that had been given to Phoenix came to him upon his death: “Total Eclipse”, “The Basketball Diaries” and “Titanic”.
character and there’s an element of mystery to it and still a lot to be explored, that’s when I say yes. I like those kinds of complicated characters”. Freedom is always the backdrop: the possibility of taking a leap if necessary. Once more the boy, once more Leo.
He says that his favourite colour is dark green because nature, moss and money are all of this colour. Leonardo DiCaprio is not a man to show off about his money nor is he obsessed with it, but it is the boy inside him that never wants to go through what he did in his childhood. This desire to overcome, for his work to get him off the streets where the wild life was the norm has turned Leonardo DiCaprio into an actor who is not just remembered for his name and face but whose films are remembered thanks to his performance. DiCaprio has worked extremely hard to get to where he is: he has put his heart and soul into it.
Fame follows DiCaprio, who does not allow himself to be trapped by something that is not worth it. He protects his life: he knows that only in this way will his performances be even more believable. He is still the rebellious lad who rebelled against the fame that engulfed him following the success of “Titanic”, when his name ceased to exist in order to become Jack Dawson. He spent a long time destroying that image of a heroic man, attempting to return to the actor, the person. He has proven that he will not be forced to be someone he is not, with whom he has nothing in common. He has done so since he was a child, when an agent told him that he should choose a more American name; his refusal to do so showed that Leonardo DiCaprio, the little, blonde, 10-year-old boy who was just beginning to shine on screen, was not willing to turn his back on his roots, on what he was and what he believed. Now, as he is just about to turn thirty-eight, he is still not willing to sacrifice his beliefs and ideology: he is a tireless defender of the environment and animal rights, and does so with the same elegance with which he can be seen in his role of Gatsby on screen.
Perhaps his acting ability derives from his past or perhaps he is just an acting genius. He chooses his roles carefully: the characters need to have some special characteristics, they need to present him with a challenge: conflictive characters that face up to their past, tortured by their own demons, traumatised and solitary. Kate Winslet, co-star in “Revolutionary Road”, says that it took a long time to convince DiCaprio to accept the role. “Leo cannot be bullied, you shouldn’t pressure him.You must sell him the role in the right way, presenting it clearly and realistically. And he must feel it. Only then, when he feels free, will he do it”. “When I can’t immediately define the
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Education, Innovation, New Technologies and Sustainability
In Spain, the crisis has once more led to a reduction in total expenditure on R+D. We previously enjoyed a situation of considerable growth year after year. Even in 2008, the year of the Lehman Brothers crisis, expenditure on R+D increased. However, today’s public and private budget cutbacks have led us to ignore the sector that has repeatedly proven to be the antidote to stagnation.Ne w technologies and innovation are now part of our daily lives. However, a complete shift of mentality depends, to a large extent, on the educational offer for new generations. Here are some opinions of experts from the education sector. challenge, which is necessary in order to succeed in this world that is far more abstract than the physical one to which they are accustomed. Furthermore, such ignorance entails certain fear. An education system based on conformity and lacking in critical thought requirements fails to prepare entrepreneurs to face the constant paradigm changes in business.
1. The general feeling is that many Spanish companies have not yet lost their fear of the digital world - to communicate and undertake new lines of business through online opportunities.Why should this be? (P. Cabello) In my opinion, it is due to two important factors: First of all, wariness of the results.Technological innovation in the digital world boasts a great deal of creative talent worldwide. It is cheap to produce, depends on itself and creates important theoretical opportunities very quickly, but neither the markets nor the consumers have the same independence. They are influenced by economic interests, cultural prejudices, inertia and therefore fail to react at the same rate. This often implies a temporary imbalance between technological expectations and the commercial results. It may be said that the wood cannot be seen for the trees and entrepreneurs tend to see what is only a temporary gap, as a failure of the technological promise.Â
(A. GarcĂa de Castro) Spanish companies are not afraid of digitalisation. No more than other European companies. However, there is a delay with respect to the United States and the main reason is the lack of breeding grounds like in California or Boston. They do not exist in other European countries either. In this sector, Europe is a long way behind the United States. Almost all of the leading companies are American. 2. What measures and changes are/should be implemented in business schools in the areas of innovation, entrepreneurship and new technologies to cover the upgrade in economic models?
The second factor is ignorance, as a result of the lack of historic exposure to technology, which is fortunately changing in the younger generations.
(P.C.) The movements that I can see in most of the Spanish Business Schools with which I am in contact are still extremely new. Perhaps they are aimed more at attracting new students or self-promotion, taking advantage of the entrepreneurial trend, which is the result of an in-depth reflection on the impact of technologies on the traditional economic sectors and the subsequent insight into which skills are required by company leaders to bring it about. However, I trust that one thing will lead to another relatively swiftly.
(A. Fragero) First of all, by not differentiating between what is important and what is urgent.The current situation marks other priorities. However, as many companies are once more successfully looking abroad to export or invest, they can see that the best way of reaching these foreign markets is via the new technologies, because there is no longer an internal or external market. We must think globally and design a website (the first thing anyone looks at when they hear about a company) for all potential clients, or in other words, a multicultural website in various languages. There is also the reluctance of senior management through ignorance and scepticism towards the number of users and uncertainty about monetization creating another bubble. The new technologies derived from digitalization are here to stay.
(A.F.) First of all is the incorporation of Innovation and New Technologies in all of their programmes. Social Media for Business is particularly noteworthy (explanatory video http://www.eoi.es/mediateca/ video/1486), whereby students can practically apply all the new ways of doing business from the outset.
(J. Fay) Companies in Spain are aware of the opportunities in digital space, but do not know how to make the most of them, how to face the
We also have in-company courses for senior management, which raise awareness from the Board to the Management Committee of the scope of all clients and stakeholders being connected. 22
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Experts Paloma Cabello Global Advisory Board Member MIT Enterprise Forum Co-founder and Trustee MIT Enterprise Forum Spain Antonio García de Castro General Manager Instituto Internacional San Telmo Joseph Fay Managing Partner, Co-founder UHY Fay & Co. President, Aloha Foundation Board Member, Marbella Business Association (CIT) Antonio Fragero Guerra Professor-Director MBA Professionals, EOI Educational Advisor, Ronda Mountain Think Tank
However, what is most important is the application of all the tools in the classroom.
Authorities, Business Associations and Chambers of Commerce, Technology firms and Business Schools, on the opportunities for companies if they embrace technology and change, and the threats if they fail to do so, may be interesting.
There is hashtag in the classrooms for comments and each group has its own site and the use of shared Google documents is common, as well as other cooperative tools.
(A.F.) The first step is to start using the available tools personally. Initial training is simple and easy to obtain. If you wish to find out more about their potential, the most effective way is to turn to experts and discover the best practices, or in other words, success stories. Finally, it must be pointed out that this path does not require heavy investment (the software is accessible). What is required is leadership by the corporate management to see the implications for the company and seek the adaptation of the business model to a more global one. Given the millions of users who are connected by smart phones, failure to sell, communicate, etc through them is paramount to the loss of opportunities for new clients and markets.
(J.F.) Generally speaking, business schools are poorly designed to face this technological challenge as they lack the necessary scientific and technological know-how from the laboratories and the experimental spirit that is inherent in the technological engineering faculties. Therefore, the greatest progress in the world is coming from prestigious universities, such as University College London (UCL) or Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), which offer Business Administration courses combined with New Technologies at their Engineering faculties, so as to have these resources and knowledge without which it is difficult to shape the entrepreneurs of the future.
(J.F.) Do not wait to reach business school to study a postgraduate course. It is necessary to start earlier by designing university degrees that combine first class technological training at Engineering faculties with Business Administration studies. It is simply no longer possible to compete without technological training. We are faced with nations boasting hundreds of thousands of engineers. Thirty years ago, studying Law and Business Administration was all the rage to educate entrepreneurs in Spain. Nowadays, it is Business Administration and New Technologies. The alternative is further unemployment and less wealth for all.
(A.G) At San Telmo, we are writing cases presenting the most innovative companies in this sector. In the first week of December, we will hold a seminar in Dublin in which cases like Google or Salesforce. com will be looked at, whereby the latter is considered to be the most innovative company in the world. Furthermore, we launched the 50k project in 1998, which has served as a launch pad for many technology based companies. Finally, all of our programmes include case studies of the most innovative companies in all sectors. Naturally, we use the new technologies – virtual classroom, etc. – in all our academic activities.
(A.G) Entrepreneurs and management learn from other experiences. To this end, the most effective method is to discover the leading companies in these sectors first hand and exchange experiences with them.
3. What is the most effective and sustainable way to raise awareness and promote these disciplines in Spain, as to be truly competitive? (P.C.) I cannot think of anything more effective and sustainable than the companies’ interest in hiring people with this type of training. For this to occur, these companies must be made aware of why they should be interested. Joint communication from the Public
These are just some of the experts who answered our questions on the future of innovation in Spain. Follow us on Twitter (@ForoLaZagaleta) or Facebook (OfficialLaZagaleta) to see additional responses.
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Educación, Innovación, Nuevas Tecnologías y Sostenibilidad En España, la crisis ha provocado de nuevo la reducción del gasto total en I+D. Veníamos de una situación donde, año tras año, los crecimientos eran considerables. Incluso en 2008, el año de la crisis de Lehman Brothers, el gasto en I+D aumentó. Sin embargo, hoy en día los recortes de presupuesto, tanto públicos como privados, han hecho que ignoremos el sector que de forma reiterada ha demostrado ser un antídoto para el estancamiento. Las nuevas tecnologías y la innovación ya son parte de nuestro día a día; sin embargo, un cambio total de mentalidad depende, en gran medida, a las ofertas educativas para las nuevas generaciones. Aquí, algunas opiniones de expertos del sector educativo. posibles, es decir una web con múltiples idiomas y multicultural. También hay un rechazo de la alta dirección por desconocimiento e incredulidad hacia las cifras de usuarios y dudas sobre la monetización, creen que otra burbuja. Las nuevas tecnologías derivadas de la digitalización han venido para quedarse.
1.La sensación es que muchas empresas españolas aún no han perdido el miedo al mundo digital – a comunicarse y a emprender nuevas ramas de su negocio a través de las oportunidades online. ¿A qué se puede deber esto? (P. Cabello) En mi opinión, se debe a dos grandes factores: El primero, la desconfianza en los resultados. La innovación tecnológica en el mundo digital cuenta con un gran parque de talento creativo a nivel mundial, es barata de producir, sólo depende de sí misma, y crea oportunidades teóricas de tamaño grande muy rápido, pero, ni los mercados, ni los consumidores, tienen esa misma independencia: están influidos por intereses económicos, prejuicios culturales, cuentan con inercias, y, por tanto, no reaccionan a esa misma velocidad. Esto implica frecuentemente, un desequilibrio temporal entre las expectativas que crea la tecnología y los resultados comerciales que se obtienen al aplicarla. Digamos que estas ramas impiden ver el bosque a veces y los empresarios tienden a entender, lo que es un gap temporal únicamente, como un fracaso de la promesa tecnológica.
(J. Fay) Las empresas en España son conscientes de que existen oportunidades en el espacio digital, pero no todas saben como aprovecharlas, como afrontar el reto, que es lo que deben hacer para poder tener éxito en este mundo, mucho más abstracto que el físico al que están habituados. Además este desconocimiento conlleva cierto temor. Un sistema de educación basado en la conformidad y escaso en la exigencia del pensamiento crítico prepara mal a los empresarios para afrontar continuos cambios de paradigma en los negocios. (A. G) Las empresas españolas no tienen miedo a la digitalización. No más que otras empresas europeas. Sin embargo, sí existe retraso con respecto a Estados Unidos y la razón fundamental es la falta de entornos que sean caldo de cultivo como existen en California ó Boston. Tampoco existen en otros países europeos. En este sector, Europa va muy por detrás de Estados Unidos. Casi todas las empresas lideres son americanas.
El segundo factor sería el desconocimiento, producto de una falta de exposición histórica a la tecnología, que afortunadamente va corrigiendo en las generaciones más jóvenes. (A. Fragero) En primer lugar a no diferenciar lo importante de lo urgente. La situación actual marca otras prioridades. Pero, como muchas empresas están mirando de nuevo y con éxito al exterior para exportar o invertir, comprueban que la mejor manera de llegar a los mercados exteriores son las nuevas tecnologías, porque y no hay mercado interior o exterior, ya tenemos que pensar en global y diseñar la web (lo primero que mira alguien cuando tiene conocimiento de una empresa) para todos nuestros clientes
2. ¿Qué medidas y cambios se están implementando en las Escuelas de Negocio en los sectores de innovación, nuevas tecnologías y emprendimiento para abarcar la actualización en los modelos económicos? (P.C.) Los movimientos que veo en la mayoría de las Escuelas de Negocio españolas con las que tengo contacto, son todavía muy incipientes. Quizá más orientados a la captación de nuevos 24
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alumnos, o a la autopromoción, aprovechando la ola de la moda del emprendimiento, que producto de una reflexión profunda sobre el impacto de las tecnologías sobre los sectores de la economía tradicional y el consecuente ejercicio de entendimiento sobre cuáles son las capacidades que los líderes de las empresas deberían tener, para producirlo. Pero tengo la esperanza de que una cosa acabará llevando a la otra, relativamente rápido.
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utilizamos las nuevas tecnologías- aula virtual, etc- en todos nuestras actividades académicas. 3. ¿Cuál es la manera más eficaz y sostenible de concienciar y promover estas disciplinas para poder ser realmente competitivos? (P.C.) No se me ocurre nada más eficaz y sostenible, que el que las empresas estén interesadas en contratar a las personas que tengan este tipo de formación. Para que esto ocurra, estas empresas tienen que ser informadas sobre por qué deberían estar interesadas.Quizá un esfuerzo de comunicación conjunto de las Administraciones Públicas, las Asociaciones Empresariales y Cámaras de Comercio, las empresas de Tecnología y las Escuelas de Negocio, sobre las oportunidades para las empresas si se abren a la tecnología y al cambio, y las amenazas si no lo hacen, sería interesante.
(A.F.) La primera una incorporación de la Innovación y las Nuevas Tecnologías en todos sus programas. Destaca el Social Media for Business (video explicativo http://www.eoi.es/mediateca/ video/1486) dónde los asistentes pueden aplicar todas las nuevas formas de hacer negocio de forma práctica desde el primer minuto. También tenemos cursos-in-company para la alta dirección que logran una sensibilización desde el consejo hasta el comité de dirección del alcance que supone que todos sus clientes y stakeholders estén conectados.
(A.F.) La primera es empezar a utilizar las herramientas disponibles de forma personal. La formación inicial es simple y fácil de conseguir. Si se quiere conocer algo más de las posibilidades la forma más eficaz es recurrir a los expertos y conocer las mejores prácticas disponibles, es decir, los casos de éxito. Por último, decir que no es un camino que exija fuertes inversiones (el software es accesible). Lo que se necesita es liderazgo del gobierno corporativo para ver las implicaciones en la empresa y buscar la adaptación del modelo de negocio a uno más global. Dados los millones de usuarios conectados por smartphones si no se puede acceder por ellos a vender, comunicar, etc se están perdiendo oportunidades a nuevos clientes y mercados.
Pero lo más importante es la aplicación de todas las herramientas en las clases. Hay hashtag en las clases para comentar y cada grupo tiene su site y el uso de google docs compartido es frecuente, así como otras herramientas colaborativas. Todos los contenidos están en abierto. (J.F.) Las escuelas de negocios están, en general, mal concebidas para poder afrontar este reto tecnológico porque carecen de los conocimientos científicos y tecnológicos necesarios, de los laboratorios y del espíritu experimental propio de las facultades de ingeniería tecnológica. Por ello, los mayores avances en el mundo los están aportando universidades del máximo prestigio, como University College London (UCL) o Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) que de hecho desarrollan programas de Administración de Empresas combinados con Nuevas Tecnologías en sus facultades de Ingeniería, para poder contar con esos medios y esos conocimientos sin los cuales ya es difícil concebir a los empresarios del futuro.
(J.F.) No hay que esperar a llegar a las escuelas de negocios para hacer un postgrado, hay que empezar antes. Diseñar grados universitarios que combinen la formación tecnológica al mas alto nivel en las facultades de Ingeniería con la formación en Administración de Empresas. Sencillamente, ya no es posible competir sin formación tecnológica.Tenemos enfrente a naciones que cuentas con cientos de miles de ingenieros. Hace 30 años el furor en la formación de empresarios, en España, era estudiar Derecho y Empresariales, hoy ha de ser Administración de Empresas y Nuevas Tecnologías. La alternativa es mas paro y menos riqueza para todos. (A.G) Los empresarios y directivos aprenden de otras experiencias. Por ello, el método más eficaz es conocer de primera mano las empresas líderes en estos sectores e intercambiar experiencias con ellas.
(A. G) En San Telmo estamos escribiendo casos y se presentan las empresas más innovadoras en este sector. En la primera semana de diciembre impartiremos un seminario en Dublín en el que se impartirán casos como Google óSalesforce.com.;esta última es considerada la empresa más innovadora en el mundo. Además en 1.998 lanzamos el proyecto 50k que ha servido de plataforma de lanzamiento de muchas empresas de base tecnológica. Por último, en todos nuestros Programas se estudian casos de las empresas más innovadoras en todos los sectores. Por supuesto
Estos son solo algunos de los expertos que contestaron a nuestras preguntas sobre el futuro de la innovación en España. Síguenos en Twitter (@ForoLaZagaleta) o Facebook (OfficialLaZagaleta) para ver más intervenciones.
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outdoor helicopter
helicopter
Safety and Comfort in Mind
EUROCOPTER EC 135 one of the quietest helicopters in its class: The EC135 is approximately 6.5 db below ICAO standards. This is of particular interest to operators regularly flying over cities and densely-populated areas. a powerful and lightweight choice. From the outside it looks like a new species of bird: svelte, imaginary, futuristic.The interior has been ingeniously laid out to provide a sober, luxurious space. The key: panoramic visibility, exceptional maneuverability, range, twin-engine performance, safety, and large cabin.
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AIRCRAFT xxxxxxx
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AIRCRAFT
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KING OF INNOVATION
With class–leading capabilities and efficiency, the next–generation King Air 350i is the responsible, sustainable alternative that business aviation has been waiting for. As THE GREENEST AIRCRAFT IN ITS SEGMENT, the King Air 350i can take more passengers farther on less fuel OFFERING consistent savings for your business. FURTHERMORE, state–of–the–art design and performance enhancements represent new heights of power and durability. their trust in more than 6,500 King Airs over the years – more than any other business aircraft.
The King Air 350i’s new interior is the most comfortable and versatile cabin ever offered in its class. The 350i’s revolutionary Flexcabin™ system can be reconfigured for work or play, while the new Venue™ Cabin Management System makes flying more productive, entertaining and relaxing.
If you require extended range or high–performance special mission aircraft, the endurance and economy of the new King Air 350iER (Extended Range) delivers the ultimate solution. This King Air can be custom modified to fulfill a wide variety of long– distance, highly technical missions.
Whether you’re travelling to major airports or basic airstrips, the versatility and comfort of the King Air 350i will show you why pilots, companies and governments in 105 countries have placed
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HIGHLIGHTS - Rockwell Collins Pro Line 21™ integrated avionics suite combines the latest flight technology and intuitive design. - By increasing fuel efficiency without sacrificing payload, the twin engine King Air 350i’s cost per seat mile is less than the leading single engine turboprop on typical 300–600 nautical mile trips. - Perfect for the go-anywhere global business traveler, the King Air 350i can often operate from runways shorter than 3,000 feet. - Standard seating for nine passengers and storage for their baggage. - At maximum weight, the twin engine climb rate ascends to an extraordinary 2,730 feet per minute. - Backed by the industry’s largest product dedicated factory owned global service network.
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car
TECHNICAL DATA: - Mercedes’ most revered postwar sports car. - T his particular example boasts only four owners since its debut. - Outstanding color combination. 215 hp, 2,996 cc single overhead cam inline six-cylinder engine, Bosch mechanical fuel injection, four-speed manual gearbox, coil spring independent front suspension, coil spring swingaxle rear suspension, and four-wheel drum brakes. Wheelbase: 94.5” Images copyright: Pawel Litwinski ©2012 Courtesy of RM Auctions
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1955 Mercedes-Benz 300SL ‘Gullwing’ Coupe FEW SPORTS CARS IN THE HISTORY OF AUTOMOBILE MANUFACTURING HAVE ATTAINED THE ICONIC STATUS OF THE REVERED MERCEDES-BENZ 300SL COUPE, WHICH COMBINES A PEERLESS RACING PEDIGREE WITH A TRULY INNOVATIVE DESIGN. FIRST APPEARING IN 1952 AS A RACING SPORTS CAR INTENDED TO RETURN MERCEDES TO COMPETITION RELEVANCE, THE 300SL WAS NOTABLE FOR ITS INNOVATIVE LIGHTWEIGHT SPACE-FRAME CHASSIS AND A RETUNED VERSION OF ENGINEER RUDOLF UHLENHAUT’S INLINE SIX-CYLINDER ENGINE, WHICH WAS ALREADY EMPLOYED IN THE 300 SEDANS. OF COURSE THE MOST NOTABLE PHYSICAL FEATURES OF SINDELFINGEN DESIGNER KARL WILFERT’S BEAUTIFUL COACHWORK WERE THE ROOF-HINGED DOORS, WHICH WERE NECESSITATED BY THE CHASSIS’S HIGH WAIST, THUS GIVING THE MODEL ITS EVENTUAL NICKNAME, THE GULLWING.
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The strength of Mr. Koniczek’s award winning restoration work continues to characterize this stunning Gullwing. The car’s magnificent exterior condition is matched by a beautifully detailed interior, engine compartment, and trunk, as well as the overwhelmingly authentic level of presentation in every mechanical part used. Further enriched by the presence of a matching set of luggage, a complete toolkit, photo-documentation of the restoration process, and a set of owners manuals, this arresting 300SL Gullwing lacks for nothing. It is a show-ready example that invites future ownership to make a competitive run at national-level concours d’elegance and MercedesBenz club events. It is among the finest examples available in today’s market and will doubtlessly draw the attention of any serious collector looking to acquire a premium-level early Gullwing.
Michigan, this car is one of just 167 examples constructed between August and December of 1954.
Dominating nearly every race it entered, the 1952 300SL attained legendary status with wins at the 1954 24 Hours of Le Mans and the Carrera Panamericana, a cachet that was not lost on groundbreaking U.S. importer Max Hoffman. Since renowned for his savvy of the emerging American market for European sports cars during the 1950s, Hoffman made considerable efforts to convince Mercedes that a strong market existed for a roadgoing series-production version of the 300SL race car. His plea did not fall on deaf ears; at the 1954 International Motor Sports Show in New York, Mercedes debuted its answer to Hoffman’s requests: a luxurious new take on the racing Gullwing.
Within time passing to a second owner in the Ann Arbor area, this car eventually came into the custody of Rudi Koniczek, a renowned restorer of 300SL models based inVictoria, British Colombia, Canada. Trained by Mercedes-Benz technicians, Mr. Koniczek has been in the business of restoring Gullwings for over 40 years, and many of his restorations have gone on to draw national recognition from venues as sophisticated as the Pebble Beach Concours d’Elegance and 300SL National Conventions. Mr. Koniczek soon treated this wonderful Gullwing to a rotisserie restoration that left no stone unturned. Every mechanical and cosmetic component was fastidiously restored to original factory standards or replaced with correct new-original stock parts. Likewise, the exterior was painstakingly refinished in a resplendently deep coat of black paint, complemented with an interior of dark green vinyl and plaid seats, both correct colors included in Mercedes-Benz 1954 livery offerings.
In addition to a more luxurious cabin upholstered in leather, the 300SL coupe featured a number of improvements over its racing forebear, including doors that were cut substantially lower for easier entry and exit. The road car also significantly improved on the race car’s power output by employing mechanical fuel injection, good for 44 hp more than the racer, and is notable as the first production automobile to feature the since widely-employed method of fuel induction. Produced in a modest quantity of 1,374 examples over a three-year production run, the 300SL Gullwing has since been elevated to a near-mythical height almost unequaled in postwar collectible sports cars.
In early 2011, this car was acquired by its current owner, a bi-coastal enthusiast who maintains a fine collection of vintage automobiles at his estate in Montecito, California. Since then, the immaculately restored Gullwing has been maintained and tended as needed by Jack Bianchi, a well-known veteran of the area’s motorsports community and a respected sports car and race car mechanic. Mr. Bianchi attests that he has seldom seen a nicer 300SL Gullwing than this example, which he adds has accrued no more than 400 miles during current ownership. Used once to drive to the annual August collector car events of the Monterey Peninsula in California, this car has otherwise been garaged in a well-maintained state of storage, ever prepared for the possibility of its owner’s occasional arrivals and bouts of use.
Embodying all of the sensational qualities that make the 300SL Gullwing such an iconic car, this beautiful example boasts a mere four owners since its debut and the expert attention of one of the 300SL niche’s leading names. According to factory records, this strapping Gullwing completed assembly on November 18, 1954 and was shipped to New York City one day later. Subsequently, it was initially purchased in early-1955 by a resident of Ann Arbor, 37
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watch
Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre Spherotourbillon Rose gold case (42 mm), hand-wound movement with spherotourbillon, 24-hour reference time zone, date and two power reserve indications.
Patek Philippe Reference 5204P Platinum case (40 mm), hand-wound movement with split-time chronograph, perpetual calendar, moon phases.
GlashĂźtte Original Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon Platinum case (48 mm), hand-wound movement with tourbillon, 37 time zones, perpetual calendar. Limited edition: 25 pieces.
ONLY FOR A HAPPY FEW
Montblanc Timewriter II White gold case (47 mm), hand-wound movement with monopusher chronograph (360.000 vph) able to measure 1/100 and 1/1000 second, 100 hours power reserve. Limited edition: 36 pieces.
Chopard Elton John watch Rose gold case (42 mm), crown and pushers in 18-carat rose gold, glare-resistant sapphire crystal and full-set bezel in black diamonds (2.80ct) and case set with diamonds ( 3.55 ct). Limited edition: 25 watches
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DeWitt Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon White gold case (43 mm) with baguette-cut and brilliant-cut diamonds, hand-wound skeleton movement with tourbillon, 72 hours power reserve.
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Richard Mille RM 056 Sapphire glass case (50x42 mm), hand-wound movement with tourbillon, split-seconds chronograph, 70 hours power reserve. Limited edition: 5 pieces.
Girard-Perregaux Bi-Axial Tourbillon DLC titanium case (45 mm), hand-wound movement with bi-axial tourbillon, 70-hour power reserve. Limited edition: 8 pieces.
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Louis Vuitton Tambour Minute Repeter White gold case (44 mm), hand-wound movement with minute repeater, second time zone, 100-hour power reserve. Customised upon request.
LIMITED EDITION (OR PRODUCTION) TIMEPIECES. PROOF OF KNOW HOW AND VIRTUOUS TECHNIQUE. EXTREMELY LUXURIOUS FOR THE MOST FERVENT COLLECTORS.
written by Daniela Fagnola
Greubel Forsey Quadruple Tourbillon Secret Platinum case (43,5 mm), hand-wound movement with 4 spherical differential tourbillons. Limited edition: 8 pieces.
Bulgari Daniel Roth Carillon Tourbillon Rose gold case (43 mm), hand-wound movement with tourbillon, minute repeater, 75 hour power reserve.
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Roger Dubuis Excalibur Skeleton Double Flying Tourbillon White gold case (45 mm) with baguette-cut diamonds, hand-wound skeleton movement with double flying tourbillon. Limited edition: 8 pieces.
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architecture outdoor
Island(E)motion founded by Milena Cvijanovich and Denis Muller of MCM Designstudio, a Swiss architecture and design firm, in partnership with Future Island, an Australia-based company, advocate Sustainable Luxury Lifestyle with their innovative concept of a Floating Island range, with an ecological footprint that is 60% less than that of a traditional yacht. The versatility of the design allows the yacht to meet the multifaceted needs and demands of the UHNW segment and can be envisioned as a destination resort or a shopping and event venue that could feature fashion shows, car shows or concerts on its undulating roofs and decks and luxury boutiques, spas and restaurants in various spaces on its numerous decks. Should the request be for art exhibitions or music events, gallery space and a concert hall are perfectly feasible within Island(E)motion’s volumes. In whatever scenario, the interior is designed to meet the exacting standards of the most exclusive environments.The client-connoisseur will appreciate the spaces decorated with inspired sustainable luxury furniture and finishes that will render each room into a work of art. Images: copyright MCM Designstudio 2012
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SUSTAINTABLE LUXURY LIFESTYLE
ISLAND(E) MOTION The Island(E)motion development team has defined the concept of Sustainable Luxury Lifestyle that they transcribed into a nomadic island. Serbo-Swiss architect, Milena Cvijanovich has developed an innovative METHOD of travel and relaxation, one that harmonizes luxury with sky, water and earth. “Live on an island designed to your dreams and be free to explore beyond the horizon,” states Cvijanovich, “harnessing the power of the wind, the sun and the waves.” Sustainable: the upper decks of Island(E)motion feature use of both recycled and recyclable construction materials for their superstructure. The roof and decks are both beautiful and practical. Landscaped in verdant green, they offer the feeling of relaxation, while serving to filter rainwater and provide insulation. Energy required to power life on the yacht will be generated by a unique combination of thermal and electrical solar panels, as well as by wind and wave energy.
provides volumes beyond compare in the yacht world. Furthermore, its cruising speed of 10 knots, enough to bring it from one site to another, allows for a sand beach and real palm trees on its decks. A gyro-stabiliser system will deliver excellent rolling motion attenuation by up to 90% while the vessel is at anchor, drifting, alongside, loitering or at transit speed. The creation offers 7 living decks whose spaces can be sculpted and landscaped to offer areas each with its own atmosphere: The 180m version, for example, offers a 300+m2 owner’s quarters with retractable roof, private helipad and pool, as well as an indoor pool that can be converted into a dance floor.
Advanced propeller technology and hydrogen and LNG fuel systems will reduce power consumption and therefore reduce environmental impact. As a result, the water bodies surrounding UNESCO heritage sites will be a readily accesible paradise to Island(E)motion.
The Island(E)motion, founded by Milena Cvijanovich and Denis Muller of MCM Designstudio advocate Sustainable Luxury Lifestyle with their innovative concept of a Floating Island range, with an ecological footprint that is 60% less than that of a traditional yacht.
Luxury for Island(E)motion is about versatility and volume. With an LOA of up to 200m and a beam of up to 40m, Island(E)motion 41
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gourmet
Vintry Fine Wines has captured the beauty seen in the hillsides of vineyards and placed that elegance in downtown Manhattan. The vibrant white and soft leather highlights each bottle as they curve and shape the contours of the store. With the finest technology at one’s finger tips, as well as a knowledgeable and refined staff that will take care of any of your needs, Vintry creates an ease to acquiring wine. The focus of the store is the long-lasting traditions within the wine industry steeped in quality and impeccable standards for every bottle. The shelves and the cellar reflect the flawless convergence of iconic producers and vintages along with the greatest new names. Vintry has a stunning compilation from all over the world including the ever sought after larger formatted wines from producers that are difficult to procure in any size bottle. The selection is meticulously curated to provide the foremost wines on the market that fulfill any and every desire and taste.
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VINTRY FINE WINES
WINE WITH A FUTURE VINTRY FINE WINES PROPOSES A NEW WAY OF SEEING WINE STORES. A FUTURISTIC DESIGN IN WHICH WHITE PREDOMINATES AND CURVED WALLS SIMULATE THE CONTOURS OF HILLY VINEYARDS. THE NEW YORK STORE SETS OUT TO OFFER TRADITIONAL WINES PRODUCED WITHOUT MANIPULATION WITH OVER 2,500 SELECTIONS, EXPERIENCED STAFF AND TOUCH-PAD TABLETS FOR THE MOST DISCERNING CUSTOMER. The key to a successful dinner is the right wine. When choosing, it is essential to know which dishes will be served so as to select the wine to accompany the meal. Although there are as many varieties as there are palates, it is not necessary to be an expert to choose the most appropriate wine. However, it is true that we are always grateful for the help of an expert who guides and clarifies which wine will ensure a triumphant feast. This is what is behind Vintry Fine Wines, an unconventional store located in New York which
combines design, tradition and innovation without foregoing quality. At Vintry Fine Wines, the “how” and “what” are important. The managers of the store are sought to encourage the consumer to perceive wine as a cultural element, which is as ancient as it is contemporary, as necessary as it is important-art and passion for many. The challenge lies in how to display hundreds of apparently
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similar bottles in an attractive, functional and effective way, whilst offering a pleasant, easy and informative shopping experience for the public. The answer came from the New York architecture firm, Rogers Marvel Architects, who was able to capture the beauty of the rolling hillsides of the vineyards and bring it to Manhattan, a stone’s throw away from Soho. Entering Vintry Fine Wines is like taking a step onto another planet, dominated by the grandeur of wine.The decor invites you to open your eyes and let yourself be carried away by more than 2,500 selections. Gleaming white and leather merge to highlight each bottle, entwining them in the contours that make up the store. The idea of Rogers Marvel Architects was to create a visually unified and uncluttered display by using curvilinear forms that expand the perceived space. The team chose materials such as leather, steel, corian, and terrazzo, to create the perfect store, accessible and innovative. The aim is to help clients purchase the right wine. If indecision sets in when faced with so many types of such fine wines, staff at the store are trained to advise each client on his/her needs. However, in a store with a futuristic design, there must be room for technology. Touch pad tablets are available at the central wine table, where an electronic expert sommelier service helps shoppers find the perfect wine for each occasion, even allowing people to build their personal collection that they can assess each time they come back to the store. Each bottle displayed by Vintry Fine Wines is filled with meticulous quality. Both on the shelves and in the cellar, there is an absolute merger between traditional producers and reputed up-and-coming new names.
wines of character that reflect the care and respect of the land in which they grow, whether from an up-and-coming young producer in Australia or a Spanish stalwart.The same standards are extended to their spirit section, with a wide range of classic and artisanal liquors from around the world, from single malt Scotch to rye produced in New York.
The meticulous selection of wines offers a wide variety to live up to the expectations and preferences of each client. The collection offers a compilation of the selections from the leading corners of the world, including those that are hard to find because of their size. Vintry Fine Wines brings the finest wines to Manhattan. The fine wines of France, among which a selection from Burgundy and Bordeaux are of particular interest, and an extensive range of vintage champagnes coexist with California classics, Italian upstarts, Spanish flavours and fine producers from across the winemaking world
The philosophy and design of Vintry Fine Wines proposes a revolutionary turnaround in the sale of traditional wines: a perfect marriage which confirms that tradition and modernity are not at odds with each other.
The New York store is based on the concept of respect for tradition. Its philosophy is to deal with producers who, in their own words, make wines that are honest expressions of a harvest, rather than being manipulated or designed, including those made by organic, biodynamic and sustainable methods. Vintry Fine Wines offers
VINTRY FINE WINES OFFERS AN IMPRESSIVE COLLECTION OF FINE WINES FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD, BUT THE 2,500 BOTTLES, 85 CHAMPAIGNS AND 24 KOSHER WINES BRING TOGETHER AN UNUSUAL DESIGN THAT HONOURS ITS CONVENTIONAL PHILOSOPHY.
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THE ULTIMATE FOOD SHOW YOU’D BE VERY HAPPY TO FIND THESE FOOD GIFTS UNDER THE CHRISTMAS TREE. JUST MAKE SURE YOUR SANTA IS A TRUE EPICUREAN – HE’D BE HAPPY TO GIFT THESE LUXURY ITEMS WITHOUT CARING IF YOU WERE GOOD OR BAD THIS YEAR. UNWRAP AND ENJOY!
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Christmas Feast Hamper London food halls are renowned for their Christmas hampers.This creation from F&M is a strong contender for the Best in Show title. It covers the list of season essentials smoked salmon, Stilton cheese, cranberry sauce and Christmas pudding.Then, several good old tea party staples like Old Silver Teapot tea, coffee, chocolate biscuits and Turkish Delight, are added for extra fun. And finally, to top it up, some lovely bottles have been added for good measure: you will love Fortnum’s London Dry Gin with strong notes of Seville oranges and lovely Tokaji wine. Price:£500.00. www.fortnumandmaison.com
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Biscuits for Cheese Barrel Chutneys, jellies and of course biscuits – lovely cheeses need their perfect partners to bring all the flavours out.The shop’s own archives have been re-visited to create the design for this vintage-looking tin. Inside an avid cheeselover can find a generous selection of fine savoury biscuits - Butter Thins, Malted Morsels, Charcoal Crunches and Walnut. Price: £16.95. www.fortnumandmason.com
4
Glengoyne 40 Year Old Single Malt 700Ml This sumptuous 40-year-old single malt is a pinnacle of perfection. It has been 175 years since the beginning of the Glengoyne Distillery’s history, and it took that long to release its most valuable Highland Single Malt. Housed in a hand-blown, unique Glencairn whisky decanter, this natural strength, limited edition single malt is presented in a lacquered solid oak box with gold plates on the front. Price: £3,800.00 www.selfridges.co.uk
3
Seldfridges Gingerbread Big Ben. Price: £16.95. www.fortnumandmason.com
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Champagne Couture: Jean Paul Gautier Piper Heidsieck Cancan set There is nothing serious about this champagne box: it’s all sex, fishnets, latex and black crystals. So, know your audience, when gifting this! Designed by French fashion icon himself, monsier Jean Paul Gautier, this gift set is a perfect present for a fun-loving person, who can not only appreciate Piper-Heidsieck Brut Vintage 2000, but also the flamboyant package it comes with, including a pair of Schott Zwiesel crystal flutes, perfect for a toast between two lovers. Available at Selfridges. Price: £575.00 www.selfridges.com
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6
Le Palais de Thés Jukro Tea This rare tea, full of rich aroma of roasted cocoa beans, is named after a village in Korea where it came from. Jukro is the country’s only black tea and is produced entirely by hand.The tea is carefully preserved in a golden canister.There are only 2,000 available. Price: £83.95. www.palaisdesthes.com and www.harveynichols.com
Square Mile Salted Caramels If you are up for an unusual treat this Christmas, try these sweets with rich caramel flavour and a hint of salt. Ah, and there is a coating of gold dust to make it truly indulgent! Price: £16 www.fortnumandmason.com
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Sweet Child of Mine: Boon Chocolate Bubble This delicious dessert is both pretty and edible. Put in on a Christmas tree during the countdown to Christmas and pick it off after you are done with turkey. Price: £38.00. Exclusive to Harrods. www.harrods.com
Hedonistic Pleasure: Penfolds Ampoule Pleasing a connoisseur is like trying to catch a rainbow: nearly impossible. A bottle of Penfolds Ampoule is a sure pot of gold at the end of the rainbow- the world’s most expensive wine can be found at Hedonism wine boutique in London’s Mayfair. It’s run by Alistair Viner who spent 16 years at Harrods as Chief Wine Buyer. An expert is always on hand here to help you not to lose your tasting notes and common sense when browsing bottles of some of the world’s greatest collections and vineyards, displayed over 500sqm of wine. Bottles range in price from £20 to £50,000 for verticals, and of course £120,000 for something truly unique like The Penfolds Ampoule. Penfolds has been producing an impressive array of wines since 1844. Address: Hedonism Wines, 3-7 Davies st.W1K 3LD, London. www.hedonism.co.uk and www.penfolds.com 47
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1
Fortnum & Maison Christmas hampers. Price and Contents on request. www.fortnumandmason.com
2
Shining Example: Osietra Caviar. This delicious farmed osietra caviar from the food halls of Fornum & Mason has an almost nutty taste. Little salty black grains will go perfectly with mini-blinis and crème fraiche.The tin is studded with sparkling Swarovski crystals. Weight: 50g. Price: £150.00 www.fortnumandmason.com
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3
The Spirit Of Christmas L’Essence de Courvoisier A perfect serve for the merry occasion is a bottle of L’Essence de Courvoisier, bringing together wonderfully blended hundred or so of the rarest ‘eaux de vie’ from the most exclusive crus in the Cognac region. A stunning handmade Baccarat crystal decanter serves as a perfect frame for this liquid diamond - this precious cognac dates from the early 20th Century. The bottle is topped with an exquisite crystal stopper inspired by the legend of Napoleon’s personal signet rings.L’Essence de Courvoisier is available at Harrods, harrods.com, Selfridges and Selfridges.com RRP £1,800
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Dom Pérignon by David Lynch Brut 2003 limited edition 750ml What do directors David Lynch and Luke Gilford have in common with chef de cave Richard Geoffroy? The answer is, of course, champagne. David Lynch, the director of Twin Peaks and Mulholland drive, created advertising champagne for the champagne house in December last year.This year, he’s presenting The Power of Creation – a limited edition bottle for Dom Perignon 2003 and the Rosé 2000.The limited edition packs are priced at around £120 for the Dom Perignon Blanc 2003, and around £240 for the Rosé 2000. Price:£140.00. www.selfridges.co.uk 48
Your Excellence: Remy Martin XO Part of the Remy Martin XO fine champagne cognac Excellence line, this XO Gold contains the same cognac as the regular issue with its ripe notes of late summer figs and candied plum, complimented by a dash of cinnamon and dried fruits of autumn. It is presented in a shimmering gold coloured decanter with a luxury presentation and gift box. Available in Harrods. Price of 70cl bottle is £130. www.harrods.com
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St Helena Coffee Drinking a good cup of coffee feels like heaven.This coffee comes from the paradise-looking island of St Helena. It first became famous by its coffee, introduced to the island in 1773 by the East India company and then by Emperor Napoleon, who was exiled to the island in 1815 and where he later died 1821.This coffee’s taste is as rich as its history, thanks to the rich volcanic soils and purest spring water. Price £19.99. www.seaislandcoffee.com
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Parisien chic: Fauchon Marrons Glacés Since 1886, Fauchon has been a byword for luxurious Parisian delicacies, sourcing high-quality products.With Christmas approaching Fauchon offers perfect gifts for lovers of the culinary arts such as marrons glacés - candied chestnuts from Turin. In the UK Fauchon products can be found in John Lewis stores and online www.johnlewis.com. Otherwise check out www.fauchon.com.Weight: 120g. Price: £30
The King of Teas: Champagne Tea Box This gift box is a perfect combination of Darjeeling tea, considered by experts to be the champagne of teas, and an actual bottle of champagne.To make things even sweeter, Santa’s little helpers even packed a jar of F&M’s own very fine Strawberry & Champagne Preserve. Price: £50.00 www.fortnumandmason.com
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Armand de Brignac Trilogie Gift Set This exquisite and needless to say limited edition gift set is a perfect present for the champagne connoisseur. Armand de Brignac is rated the number one Champagne in the world, and this polished black wooden case includes three Armand de Brignac’s 100% handmade cuvees: complex and full-bodied Armand de Brignac Brut Gold, salmon-hued and fresh Rosé, and light and floral Blanc de Blancs, entirely composed of Cote de Blancs and Montagne de Reims Chardonnay. Price: £1,350.
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King
George Christmas
Pudding It’s impossible to imagine a Christmas dinner without luxurious pudding.This one from Fortnum & Mason is made to the traditional recipe, which means it contains beef suet and fullstrength Navy Rum. It’s presented in an elegant white china bowl. www.fortnumandmason.com
www.harveynichols.com
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THE BOOM IN SPANISH FASHION IN TIMES OF CRISIS In spite of the increasing disappearance of companies and the alarming unemployment figures recorded in Spain, the fashion industry presents positive growth figures and is an important creator of jobs. by Maria Cardona Spain is in crisis, but its fashion companies are living it in very different ways. From heavy weights like El Corte InglĂŠs, Mango or Inditex, whose founder, Amancio Ortega, is the richest man in Europe and the third richest in the world according to Forbes Magazine, to the SMES and clothing workshops, which have been hit harshly by the recession, put pressure on the connection between creators, state and entrepreneurs
million euros in 2011. The aforementioned report records the textile industry census at 9,389 firms with 146,100 employees, whilst textile trade represents 194,554 people in 60,248 establishments. In terms of consumer preferences, specialised stores are favoured with a market share of 29.2%, whilst the multi-label stores lose ground against hypermarkets and supermarkets. The market share of outlets has increased to 14% (in 2001, it only reached 0.9%), standing as the establishments with the greatest progression.
According to a report prepared by SIMM with data from ACOTEX, CITYC and FEDECON, turnover in the textile sector was 11,100
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The Fashion Industry in Spain, 2011 FASHION INDUSTRY (*)
% OVER THE MANUFACTURING INDUSTRY
Firms
12,000
9.3
Employment
104,400
5.1
Turnover (Million)
11,300
2.6
Added Value (Million)
3,235
3.1
Exports (Million)
9,800
6
(*) Including clothing, footwear, leather goods (bags, purses, etc), watches, jewels, costume jewellery and other articles. Source: CITYC.
Evolution of Turnover in Textile Sales in Spain 21,059 20,347
18,343 17,389
5.49%
18,813 2.56%
19,223 2.18%
19,621
21,516 2.17%
3.50%
21,962 2.07%
22,460 2.27%
22,083 -1.68% 19,847
3.70%
-10.13%
2.07%
18,300 -7.79%
17,373 -5.07%
1997
1998
1999
2000
2001
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
17,189 -1.06%
2011
Source: SIMM, with data from ACOTEX, CITYC and FEDECON.
Finding the success formula continues to be paramount. Gonzalo Brujó, Iberia and Latin America President of Interbrand, one of the leading brand consultancy firms indicates that it is based on “having a good product, thinking about client needs and combining everything possible under the creation of a label and transmitting a unique experience at each consumer contact point”.
the Spanish fashion company”. The emerging markets of Asia and America are the most dynamic, with increases in excess of 20%. On the other hand, the European Union market has grown by a mere 7%, but represents 65% of total exports. Acknowledgements to: SIMM (Madrid International Fashion Fair), ACOTEX (Textile and Accessories Trade Association), CITYC (Centre of Information on the Textile and Clothing Industry) and FEDECON (Spanish Federation of Clothing Companies).
CITYC reports that exports for the clothing sector rose by 7.5% in the first half of 2012, whilst imports fell by 8.8%. Therefore, the international market is crucial to maintaining activity in light of the heavy recession in terms of domestic demand. Ángel Asensio, President of FEDECON, states that the way forward is internationalization. SMEs require mergers and takeovers to increase the average size of
Maria Cardona is a presenter, writer, stylist, and frequent collaborator at ¡Hola! and Mujer.es, where she is an expert on the fashion industry. You can reach Ms. Cardona at editorial@lazagaleta.com.
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Textile/ Clothing Sector – Latest Figures DATA
PERIOD
PRODUCTION *TEXTILE
-7,8
JANUARY-APRIL 2012/JANUARY-APRIL 2011
*CLOTHING
-2,9
JANUARY-APRIL 2012/JANUARY-APRIL 2011
INDUSTRIAL PRICES *TEXTILE
0.4
APRIL 2012/APRIL 2011
*CLOTHING
0.3
APRIL 2012/APRIL 2011
FOREIGN TRADE *IMPORTS
-9.2
JANUARY-APRIL 2012/ JANUARY-APRIL 2011
*EXPORTS
7.7
JANUARY-APRIL 2012/ JANUARY-APRIL 2011
*TRADE BALANCE
44.2
APRIL 2012/APRIL 2011
EMPLOYMENT *SS AFFILIATES
-7.2
MAY 2012 / MAY 2011
INVESTMENT *MACHINERY IMPORTS
-4.3
JANUARY-APRIL 2012/ JANUARY-APRIL 2011
TRADE SALES *MACHINERY IMPORTS
-8.2
JANUARY-APRIL 2012/ JANUARY-APRIL 2011
CPI *GENERAL
1.9
MAY 2012/MAY 2011
*CLOTHING + FOOTWEAR
0.5
MAY 2012/MAY 2011
Source: INE, MEYSS and Customs and Excise.
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economy
Foreign Trade Advance January/July 2012 Imports / millions € JANUARY/JULY 2012
JANUARY/JULY 2011
% VARIATION
FIBRES AND MANUFACTURED TEXTILES
1,942.40
2,099.00
-7
KNITWEAR AND CLOTHING
5,588.00
5,965.50
-6
TOTAL
7,530.40
8,064.50
-6,6
FIBRES AND MANUFACTURED TEXTILES
1,944.50
1,916.60
1
KNITWEAR AND CLOTHING
3,804.40
3,343.90
14
TOTAL
5,748.9
5,260.5
9,3
TRADE BALANCE
-1,781.5
-2,804.00
MILL.€
COVER RATE
76.3
65.2
%
January/July 2012 Exports / Million €
Source: FEDECON y CITYC.
Evolution of Exports Value (millions of Euros)
Year-on-year Increase
2007
4,326
8%
2008
4,966
15%
2009
5,302
6%
2010
5,620
6%
2011
6,362
13%
Source: Directorate General of Customs and ICEX (Spanish Institute of Foreign Trade)
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FOTO “The current situation is undoubtedly affecting the sector. Therefore, it is extremely important to project our fashion beyond our borders. Consumption of Spanish fashion can be promoted through platforms, such as the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid, organised by IFEMA, which offers designers a unique opportunity to display their creations, not only to the media but to national and international buyers, who visit the catwalk twice a year”. Leonor Pérez Pita, director of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid.
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The Most Valuable Spanish Retail Brands 2012
Zara Zara continues to bring excitement and constant freshness to high street fashion. This year, it has showed a characteristic rally of expansion, increasing sales through a clear, consistent, and differentiated value proposition. Currently, Zara has 1,600 stores in 77 countries. It continues to leverage its logistics system to ensure stock rotation every 15 days. In 2011, Zara proceeded with its successful entry into the digital world. It continues to expand and manage its on-line presence with more than 11 million Facebook fans. In 2011, the brand faced a double challenge: expanding on-line sales in key international markets, like the US in the face of H&M’s on-line debut scheduled for 2012, and strengthening its presence in Asia, North America, Australia and South Africa, where the brand was launched last year.
Pablo Isla, President of the Inditex Group.
Zara, the Spanish fast-fashion retailer, has experienced a sharp increase in brand value this year (18%). Zara’s long-admired business model has kept customers happy and the company in top form, despite harsh global economic conditions. Zara continues to leverage its enviable logistics system, which enables store managers to communicate directly with designers, providing them with valuable information on what is and is not selling. In turn, Zara’s customers are able to find (and purchase) clothes that keep them looking fashion forward. In September 2011, Zara launched on-line sales in the US and opened an expansive and highly sustainable flagship store on New York’s Fifth Avenue to much fanfare, in March 2012. The US has not been Zara’s only focus throughout the past year. The brand announced plans to open a fifth store on London’s Oxford Street and yet another store in Madrid — on the city’s high-end Calle Serrano. Zara has also expanded its presence in China, where it recently launched an on-line shop. And Zara has also made forays into countries, such as Taiwan, South Africa, and Peru. Through strategic global expansion, a commitment to sustainability and keeping consumer demands at the forefront, Zara continues to be a leading global retail brand. Spaniard, Amancio Ortega, owner of the Zara fashion chain, has become the third richest man in the world, with a fortune of 46,600 million dollars (38,000 million euros), according to the Bloomberg daily index. Ortega, 76, has increased his fortune this year by 32%, 11,400 million dollars, in spite of the crisis in Spain. Amancio Ortega is the Chief Executive and founder of Inditex.
THE 2012 RANKINGS UNITED STATES
01
U.K.
02
Zara
El Corte Ingés
8,065$m
1,827$m
FRANCE
GERMANY
SPAIN
ASIA-PACIFIC
03
04
05
Mango
Bershka
Mercadona
1,199$m
873$m
844$m
Soruce: Interbrand.
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El Corte Ingles
Despite more than 70 years of history and a status as an iconic brand in its home market, El Corte Inglés has had trouble recapturing its past reputation. Its financial results have been marred by Spain’s economic crisis and its burdensome structure of expenditure, including managing more than 75 stores across Spain, high investment in television advertising, and a brand strategy that has not yet captured a well-defined brand image in the contemporary market. More importantly, it fails to connect with a new generation of consumers, who are more style and trendsensitive. The company needs a more proactive brandbuilding strategy, especially in terms of leadership and relevant innovations for the customer. However, its recent focus on the online space and targeting of the important premium shopper should position it better in the future.
Mango
Mango continues to create value through a strong brand personality, supported by celebrities, such as Scarlett Johansson and Kate Moss. A new, more sober and elegant logo is a cue to the brand’s growing maturity and understanding of its specific customer targets. Mango has focused on greater internationalization over the past two years, with particular emphasis on countries like Russia and China. Mango intends for China to be one of its main markets in the next five years, with more than 3,000 shops. Mango is also increasing its presence in the US, thanks to an agreement with JCPenney. In terms of e-tail, Mango has distinguished itself in recent years as a pioneer in the exploration of on-line sales channels. It excels at communicating with its audience via social media and boasts more than two million followers on Facebook.
Growing... Bimba y Lola. Sisters, María and Uxía Domínguez, nieces of the Galician entrepreneur, Adolfo Domínguez, founded Bimba y Lola in 2005, a textile company of womenswear and accessories that now has 90 stores or franchises throughout Spain. They can be found in 15 foreign countries, with more than 30 stores in France, United Kingdom, Mexico, Costa Rica, Egypt, Saudi Arabia, Malaysia, Singapore, Kuwait, etc. Their workforce exceeds 500 employees and they are one of the fastest growing national firms, which excels for its medium-high range of products at moderate prices and they have just renewed their web-site in order to promote their on-line strategy. Pronovias Group. Over the past 5 years, the Pronovias Group has accelerated its international expansion plan with the opening of stores in the main cities on the five continents. In 2011, the company opened 34 stores, 15 of which were outside Spain, 8 of which were in new markets: Brazil, Korea, Japan, Chile, Jordan, Malta and Iran, placing the export share at 71% of total sales. 19 El Corte Inglés sales points were also opened in Spain in 2011. 9 stores will be opened in Russia, Venezuela, South Africa, Lebanon, Ecuador, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan over the forthcoming quarter, taking the total figure to 200 Pronovias stores in 31 countries. A total of 30 new stores are envisaged to be opened in 2012, strengthening the label’s presence in Latin America, Eastern Europe and the Middle East. The sales quota outside Spain would be 72% of the total.
Pronovias flagship store in Midtown East, New York, between Fifth Avenue.
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Interior of the Bimba & Lola store in Calle Serrano, Madrid.
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economy
Spanish Corsetry Consumption, 2011 PRODUCT
PRODUCTION
PRODUCT NAME
000 UNITS
8,900.7
Bras
CONSUMPTION
THOUSANDS €
THOUSANDS €
72,95.4
57,284.9
169,884.9
8,519.1
45,252.6
1,233.0
6,152.6
411.0
2,148.0
356.3
2,956.4
258.0
130.4
4,056.7
8,344.0
1,262.6
5,035.3
62,930.9
187,337.9
10,450.7
52,566.3
3,551.3
35,512.9
Suspender Belts, Athletic Supports, Braces, Garters TOTAL CORSETRY
EXPORTS 000 UNITS
Panty Girdles Corsets
IMPORTS 000 UNITS
12,452.0
107,608.3
THOUSANDS €
000 UNITS
THOUSANDS €
57,666.5
196,727.7
7,265.7
45,652.2
64,932.2
242,379.9
Source: SIMM, con datos del CITYC.
Spanish Swimwear Consumption PRODUCTION
year 2011
2010
2009
2008
2007
IMPORTS
EXPORTS
consumption variation compared with the previous year
CONSUMPTION
thousand units
thousand
thousand units
thousand
thousand units
thousand
thousand units
thousand
Male
3,840.0
39,130.0
8,875.0
35,606.0
1,570.0
9,612.0
11,145.0
65,124.0
7.6%
Female
5,500.0
65,510.0
29,164.0
103,556.0
4,125.0
30,791.0
30,512.0
138,275.0
0.8%
Totalal
9,340.0
104,640.0
38,039.0
138,162.0
5,722.0
40,403.0
42,675.0
203,399.0
2.9%
Male
4,140.0
39,930.0
9,853.0
29,594.0
1,503.0
8,972.0
12,490.0
60,552.0
8.7%
Female
5,642.0
66,854.0
30,154.0
95,309.0
3,349.0
25,022.0
32,447.0
137,132.0
5.9%
Totala
9,782.0
106,776.0
40,007.0
124,903.0
4,852.0
33,994.0
44,973.0
197,684.0
6.7%
Male
3,833.6
35,652.5
10,496.7
30,188.0
1,481.2
10,16.0
12,849.1
55,724.5
-19.8%
Female
5,750.8
70,734.8
25,810.3
85,213.0
3,889.8
26,474.0
27,671.3
129,473.8
-15.1%
Totala
9,584.4
106,387.3
36,307.0
116,401.0
5,371.0
36,590.0
40,520.4
185,198.3
-16.6%
Male
4,865.0
44,75.0
12,958.9
31,121.5
1,702.5
10,428.9
16,121.4
65,450.6
-5.8%
Female
7,298.0
88,305.8
25,230.0
100,016.5
4,073.1
26,817.1
28,454.9
161,505.2
5.9%
Totala
12,163.0
133,063.8
38,188.9
131,138.0
5,775.6
37,246.0
44,576.3
226,956.8
2.2%
Male
5,375.0
48,912.5
10,550.6
31,835.3
1,861.7
11,259.3
14,063.9
69,488.5
2.5%
Female
8,065.0
95,973.5
24,881.6
89,400.3
4,545.7
32,871.1
28,400.9
152,502.7
3,.2%
Totala
13,440.0
144,886.0
35,432.2
121,235.6
6,407.4
44,130.4
42,464.8
221,991.2
3.0%
€
€
€
€
Source: SIMM, with data from CITYC.
Comparative of the Main Strengths in the Clothing Sector
Source: CITYC.
2009
2010
2011
number of firms
3,415
3,136
2,910
employment
103,690
93,330
86,714
turnover
4,333
4,075
3,950
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economy
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Lingerie consumption in Spain, 2011 PRODUCT
PRODUCTION
IMPORTS
EXPORTS
CONSUMPTION
PRODUCT NAME
000 UNITS
THOUSANDS €
000 UNITS
THOUSANDS €
000 UNITS
THOUSANDS €
000 UNITS
THOUSANDS €
Knickers
45,051.2
81,092.1
113,025.0
109,130.1
14,534.0
33,543.8
143,542.2
156,678.4
Slips and Underskirts
537.0
3,168.3
8,266.2
33,326.2
650.0
2,688.8
8,153.2
33,805.7
Briefs and Underpants
23,132.8
39,191.0
49,635.8
89,677.7
4,286.2
14,962.5
87,952.3
114,040.9
Bathrobes, Dressing Gowns and Similar Garments
2,112.5
18,590.0
7,566.8
75,170.0
1,583.0
17,506.1
8,096.3
76,253.9
TOTAL LINGERIE
81,679.4
234,367.1
247,599.5
469,916.2
26,543.1
98,942.0
302,735.8
605,341.3
Source: SIMM, with data from CITYC.
Main Textile Clothing Clients Market Weight in Exports, 2011
France 14% Portugal 13%
Other Markets 38%
Italy 10%
Germany 5% Russia 2%
Turkey 3% Belgium 3%
United Kingdom 5% Mexico 3%
Greece 4%
Source: ICEX
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economy
Key Players in the
Lorenzo Caprile Designer
“Those of us devoted to the made-to-measure sector in Spain work for weddings. Our customers are really brides, matrons of honour and guests. However, this is not due to the crisis. When I started out 20 years ago, it was already like that. I have always made a living from my work. I do not receive a single penny of public money. Made-to-measure clothing workshops like mine have never jumped onto the subsidy bandwagon. I am very small but far freer. I am my own boss”.
Gonzalo Brujó President of Interbrand for Spain, Portugal and Latin America
Blanca Zurita
Public relations at Blanca Zurita, specialised in the fashion industry. Public Relations and Media Director for MFSHOW
“Today, we cannot talk about the Spain Brand as a reality, but as a project that still has a long way to go. To start with, we need to combine objectives and align all those involved in the same direction. It is necessary to analyse what we must promote, create a strategy that enables us to grow in the long term and implement it coherently, with a real budget adapted to our needs”.
“To communicate Spanish fashion to the press, it is necessary to be coherent with the business volume it is able to produce. It involves teamwork in terms of image, creativity, marketing, business plans…An important thing is that we should not compare ourselves with leading labels that play with scandalous budgets and are fully able to get their message across to the whole world. We must compare ourselves with the league in which we are playing”.
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Lina Mascaró Managing Director of the Mascaró Group
“We began to export in the 1990’s and, fortunately, we are now well positioned throughout Europe and the United States. The future is undoubtedly Asia, Latin America and the Middle East. If we work well, the future will be promising. It is a question of doing things well, with increasingly competitive products, commitment to the label and providing the best service. Trying to open new markets is the way forward, not only now but since a long time ago”.
economy
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Spanish Fashion Industry
Ignacio Sierra General Manager of the Corporate Area of the Cortefiel Group
“The crisis has an effect and adds pressure. On the other hand, it encourages firms to diversify internationally and operate with the utmost agility and efficiency. The market will continue to focus on fewer but bigger and more international players, and it is good news that the Spanish labels are among the most competitive and best positioned. The style/ quality/price ratio of the leading Spanish brands is hard to question”.
Miguel Palacio Designer for Miguel Palacio and Miguel Palacio for Hoss Intropia
Lucía Francesch Deputy Director of TELVA Magazine
“Fashion by national designers (excluding chains, such as Zara or Mango) is at a disadvantage with respect to foreign firms, which are highly visible thanks to advertising campaigns in the luxury magazines. TELVA, as the national leader, has always supported Spanish designers, and proof of this is the TELVA Fashion Award, which is awarded each year to a national designer as well as an international designer”.
“My firm is devoted to accessible luxury. It is about making creative and quality garments with a business structure to keep costs to a minimum. The current situation calls for opening new markets and defining a present-future strategy. Internationalization must be promoted. The added value of buying Spanish fashion consists of the advantage that the designers are closer to the Spanish way of living, dressing and their needs”.
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Ángel Asensio Entrepreneur and President of FEDECON
“The current financial situation is crucifying many firms and means that many viable firms are likely to close down, not due to a lack of funding but rather because funding has been cut off. Multi-nationals have it easier because their business is diversified in many countries and they carry weight as well as presence, creating far more resources. One of the problems faced by the sector in Spain is that it is tremendously fragmented. It is necessary to create associations and reach agreements”.
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fashion
LEATHER IS SPEAKING ..EVEN IN SUMMER, BETWEEN PATTERNS ROUCHES, AND DIAMOND LIGHTS. LEATHER CONTINUES TO BE THE TREND. by Mia Genovese
1. 3. 2.
Armani
Costume national
Louis Vuitton
Louis Vuitton
6.
5.
4.
Malo
1. Bikini red and white. Ermanno Scervino (180 €) www.ermannoscervino.it 2. Sunglasses butterfly model, with cystals and beads. Christian Dior (price on request) www.dior.com 3. Striped leather and raffia bag. Ermanno Scervino(1.100 €) www.ermannoscervino.it 4. Bag theme “Sparkle Beauty” in gray leather. Chanel (2.600 €) www.chanel.com 5. FUSEAU ring in white gold, black diamonds, nacre and rock crystal. Vhernier (price on request) www.vhernier.it 6.Two tone decolleté chamois, with golden plaque. Louis Vuitton(price on request)www.louisvuitton.com. 62
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fashion
Bottega Veneta
12.
9.
8.
11. Armani
10.
7.
7. Cufflinks. Steve & Co. (9 €) www.steveandco.com 8. Glove for run - fingerless.Pineider (100 €) www.pineider.com 9. Big bag in box calf. Prada (950 €) www.prada.com 10. Sunglasses with leather insert. Hogan (222 €) www.hogan.com 11. Platinum A.Lange & Söhne (70.200 €) www.alange-soehne.com 12. Cotton popeline, Prada (350€) with papillon in silk, Corneliani (60€) www.prada.com www.corneliani. com. 63
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interview
interview
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ION FIZ He founded the label that bears his name in 1998 and is one of the most promising agujas of Spanish fashion. Guipuzcoa-born Ion Fiz, whose meteoric curriculum includes a seminar on Balenciaga by Hubert de Givenchy and having worked alongside the master, Manuel Pertegaz, is one of the most keenly awaited designers at the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week in Madrid. its designers! Such ignorance is regrettable, believing that what comes from abroad is better, whilst our Made in Spain designs are adored in Paris, Japan, USA or Latin America.
What are the strengths and weaknesses of the Spanish fashion industry? There are lots of strengths: creativity, quality, elegance, concept, art, colour, texture, with a certain timeless touch.
How has the financial crisis affected your company? Weaknesses: Spain is a country known for its football, bulls, gastronomy and politics, not for its fashion. It does not have the industry, nor does it support or promote fashion.What a shame that the country does not support
It has not affected me at all – quite the contrary – my company is doing better than ever. I have had a lot of orders over the past three years and the company
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is growing, expanding to fairs in Paris, Japan, Russia... I am pleased. It seems as if I am going against the flow of other firms. In 2012, I am celebrating my 10th anniversary and in reality, my agenda is full of projects, orders, exclusive designs for brides. Perhaps, this is my moment: the “Fizissimo” moment.
How would you define your style when dressing a woman?
Why do you think that many Spanish designers are reluctant to talk about economic details or any other type of figures whilst the large groups of the sector offer this information freely?
Why do you think there is such a big contrast between those designers who warn of the inexistence of industrial tissue and the industrial giants, such as Inditex, Punto Fa S.L. with Mango, Pronovias Fashion Group...?
The sector’s big groups have stolen everything from us: ideas, tendencies and on top of that, they sell rubbish, deceiving people with fabrics that are harmful to health. If you really knew the composition of the fabrics used in these cheap fashion chains, you would be trembling.They are 100% toxic. The designer has no need to talk about figures. The designer is a creator with much more important things to do than to talk about figures. He / she focuses on beauty and creation.
As I have just mentioned, the industrial giants steal our ideas.They copy them and produce them in poor quality, toxic and cheap fabrics and they think nothing of it. However, they will never be the same. A designer’s original design is always going to be excellent in terms of cut and fabrics. Copies will never be elegant.
In addition to being a designer, do you work as an entrepreneur or do you have an external investor?
A great deal: I love dressing my clients in made-to-measure clothes. It is a magical moment, and even more so when you build up a feeling, a friendship!
I am an entrepreneur. I am the sole owner of my firm and company. I am responsible for supervising everything: collections, production, orders, trade fairs, fashion shows, design, etc. I am now looking for investment partners to open an “Ion Fiz” male and female store, as this is what everyone is calling for! I am here for anyone interested in opening a designer store!
Natural and sophisticated: elegant, the best fabrics and materials, an excellent cut and the most exclusive designs best describe my creations.
What have you learned from your clients?
What do you think lies ahead? Several experts believe in merging small and medium sized companies to join forces... I don’t know. If I knew, I would be delighted to answer you. I can only say that I am opening an online store in November: www.ionfizcom/tienda
interview
Natural and sophisticated: elegant, the best fabrics and materials, an excellent cut and the most exclusive designs best describe my creations.
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interview xxxxxxx
ION FIZ Fundó la marca que lleva su nombre en 1998 y es una de las agujas más prometedoras de la moda española. El guipuzcoano Ion Fiz, quien en su meteórica trayectoria cuenta con un seminario sobre Balenciaga impartido por Hubert de Givenchy y el haber trabajado junto al maestro Manuel Pertegaz, es uno de los diseñadores más esperados de Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Madrid.
¿Cuáles son los puntos fuertes y los puntos débiles de la moda española?
Ejerzo de empresario, soy dueño al 100% de mi propia firma y de mi empresa, me encargo de supervisar todo: colecciones, producción, pedidos, ferias, desfiles, diseño...Ahora busco socios inversores para abrir una tienda propia “ ion fiz “ hombre y mujer , puesto que es lo que me pide todo el mundo!. Desde aquí propongo a todo aquel que le interese abrir tienda de diseñador.
Los puntos fuertes todos: creatividad, calidad , elegancia, concepto, arte, color, textura, con cierto toque atemporal. Debilidades: que España es un país de fútbol , toros , gastronomía y política , no es un país de moda , no tiene la industria necesaria ,ni apoya ni promociona la moda. Que tristeza que el propio país no apoye a sus diseñadores! , lamentable...que ignorancia, pensando que lo que viene de fuera es mejor, mientras en Paris, Japón, E.E. U.U o Latinoamérica adoran nuestros diseños Made in Spain.
¿Cómo definiría su estilo a la hora de vestir a la mujer? Natural y sofisticada: elegante, los mejores tejidos y materias, un corte excelente y los diseños más exclusivos, esa es la definición de mis creaciones.
¿Cómo ha afectado a su firma la crisis financiera?
¿Por qué cree que hay tanto contraste entre los diseñadores que alertan sobre la inexistencia de tejido industrial con los gigantes industriales como Inditex, Punto Fa S.L. con Mango, Pronovias Fashion Group...?
No me ha afectado nada, todo lo contrario, mi firma va mejor que nunca, llevo 3 años de muchísimos encargos y crecimiento de firma con expansión a las ferias de Paris , Japón , Rusia... Estoy feliz, parece que me sucede al contrario de otras firmas, este 2012 celebro mi 10º aniversario y la verdad, tengo la agenda saturada de proyectos, encargos, novias a medida....¿será que es mi momento? el momento “Fizissimo”.
Como te acabo de decir , los gigantes industriales nos roban las ideas, las copian tal cual las fabrican con telas malas y toxicas más baratas y encima se quedan tan anchos, eso si , nunca será lo mismo , el diseño original de un diseñador siempre va a ser excelente en cuanto a corte y tejidos , las copias nunca serán elegantes....
¿A qué cree que se debe el que muchos diseñadores españoles no quieran hablar sobre datos económicos ni ningún tipo de cifra, mientras los grandes grupos del sector facilitan dicha información con fluidez?
¿Y qué es lo que ha aprendido de sus clientas?
Los grandes grupos del sector nos han robado todo: las ideas , las tendencias, y encima venden basura engañando a la gente con tejidos nocivos para la salud, si supierais realmente la composición de los tejidos de esas cadenas baratas de ropa os echaríais a temblar, es toxico 100%. El diseñador no tiene porque hablar de cifras, el diseñador es un creador, tiene otra tarea mas importante que hablar de cifras, trabaja con la belleza y la creación.
Muchísimo, adoro vestir a mis clientas a medida, es un momento mágico, mas aun cuando se crea una afinidad, una amistad!.
¿Qué situación cree que está por venir? Varios expertos abogan por la fusión entre pequeñas y medianas empresas para unir fuerzas... No lo se, si lo supiera te contestaría encantado, yo te puedo adelantar que en noviembre abro tienda online : www.ionfizcom/tienda.
Además de diseñador, ¿ejerce también de empresario o cuenta con un inversor externo?
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he most delicious caviar can only be found in ir an or russia. and it originates solely from wild sturgeons in the caspian sea. wrong and wrong. the future of the world’s most precious delicacy
forget everything you know about caviar.
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want to become a distributor? contact us at www.zw yercaviar.com
le premier caviar Éthique. sustainable wild-r aised caviar
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ELEGANCE
CLASSIC 2012
DSQUARED EXTREME GENTLEMAN COUTURE 2
In line with the sophisticated and unexpected individuality from DSQUARED²’s allencompassing apparel and accessory collections, DSQUARED² Classic combines irony and wit with an eclectic mix of reinterpreted design inspirations stemming from metropolitan destinations. traditional style of suiting, which at times can appear as almost too conservative. We designed the DSQUARED² Classic Capsule for the man who wants to dress in a more formal way, but who still maintains a distinctive and original look.” The DSQUARED² Classic capsule collection, consisting of 93 pieces including outerwear, shirting, suits and knits, will offer a comprehensive assortment of superior fabrications. Vintageinspired brushed wool, silk, cotton and satin are refined in such patterns as Bird’s Eye Cloth and Prince of Wales as well as pinstripe options, a hallmark of the DSQUARED² brand. Color will range from classic tonal grey and black to mineral shades joined by smoky nuances of Slate Grey and Anthracite.
The formal aesthetic of traditional men’s suiting evolves into an innovative, yet iconic style, aptly named Snappy Deluxe. The city streets of such destinations as Beverly Hills, Hollywood, Milano, NewYork, London, Paris and Toronto, are referenced in the capsules’ design concept, color offerings and accessories. Cuts, proportions and detailing of the suit offerings are customized to the persona of the modern metropolitan sophisticate who pioneers his own stylish look in his travels from city to city. Each style is named after its inspiration city, assigning a unique fit and form according to personal taste and comfort.The capsule collection will consist of nine styles total, offering seven Classic suiting styles and two Evening tuxedo styles.
Playfulness is paired with intellect in the capsules’ signature bowties and neckties, available in bicolor tricot offered in beige and burgundy silk. Details consist of a plain structural weave and piqué woven with fine embroidered details. Such components provide a subtle hint of color, creating a dynamic and customized
“We designed this suiting so that the everyday man can become an icon of elegance, and above all a man of style,” say Dean and Dan Caten, Creative Directors and Designers behind the DSQUARED² brand. “Walking through the city streets we tend to see a more 70
ELEGANCE
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ELEGANCE xxxxxxx
ELEGANCE
color palette yarn-dyed in cacao, mahogany, amethyst, carmine and olive green. Patterns such as micro- polka dots, hound’s-tooth and vintage 1970s weaving will transition the look from informal and relaxed to dapper and slim.
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Recently, the twins have also made their debut in the media: they have been presenters for Launch my Line, a reality show centered around the fashion world and broadcast by the American TV station Bravo TV. In addition to this, they have been speakers for Sirius XM Radio. The DSQUARED² team personally designs the men’s, women’s, accessory, eyewear and fragrances collections.
An intelligent mix of ambition and tailoring art unite together down to the last details. These qualities are the foundation of the DSQUARED² philosophy, which has given a new life and alternative to the concept of luxury. The twins of Canadian origin, Dean and Dan Caten, launched their first prêt-à-porter collection in 1995, obtaining from the beginning an enormous success amongst the press and big international celebrities such as Madonna, Lenny Kravitz, Rihanna, Britney Spears, Justin Timberlake, Usher, Beyoncé, Christina Aguilera and David Beckham. In addition, the brand proudly collaborates with the world of sports: after the three-year collaboration with Juventus, the new off-field uniforms for Barcelona FC, for the last three years, have been signed DSQUARED².
DSQUARED2 currently has single-brand stores in Milan, Capri, Kiev, Istanbul, Hong Kong, Cannes, Dubai, Singapore, Montecarlo, Athens and Thessaloniki.
Additional accessory offerings such as wallets, credit card holders and briefcases will further refine the silhouette with leather stamped in textures of ostrich and crocodile. Cufflinks, pocket squares, tiepins and Nappa Leather gloves will also be included in the DSQUARED² Classic capsule. 73
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His ability to sculpt the face is absolutely surprising. The subtlety of the women’s features, the weakness portrayed eliminates all traces of breathing. He portrays the human soul and places it in front of a world that appears to be abandoning it, which is nothing further than reality.The human being is not a marginal being, although it appears to be so; it is a being that is in perfect harmony with the trees, flowers, earth. Renoir challenges us with a game of mirrors: one thing would not exist without the other. Renoir drew gentleness as if it were porcelain. That is the beauty: delicate, weak, brittle, dangerous and extremely disquieting. Renoir knew all of our secrets.
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RENOIR
La vie en peinture
THROUGHOUT HIS ARTISTIC CAREER SPANNING ALMOST SIXTY YEARS, RENOIR’S CREATIVE CAPACITY WAS NEVER LOST TO INSPIRATION OR THE WILL TO CONTINUE DEPICTING LIFE AND ALL ITS VARIANTS ON CANVAS, CONSTANTLY FROM THE PERSPECTIVE OF UNEQUALLED BEAUTY. ONLY HIS WORKS ARE EQUIVALENT TO THE COMBINED WORK OF MANET, CÉZANNE AND DEGAS. Renoir was one of the greatest enhancers of beauty and gentleness as well as one of the leading exponents of Impressionism. His art is undeniable, along with the quality of his works: Renoir’s capacity to continue appealing to the public in spite of everything is surprising. His paintings portray warmth in each and every brushstroke on the canvas; in the strokes that have or have not been made. These brushstrokes reveal the secrets that so many other painters have unsuccessfully sought. Renoir was a vision of sensitivity, similar to the
friction of skin against skin. Renoir was not a painter who was happy to observe the surface: he looked into nature, the landscapes that he contemplated day after day; he shook up unanimated objects and stilllife; he paid particular attention to the eyes that observed whilst being painted, to the hands that turned cold in any room or any place or country; he looked into his inner self and drew what he felt: drawing feelings, self-sacrifice, time. Renoir was a genius who pried into hope and tears, with the most absolute beauty. This capacity, which 75
I LOVE MY WORK AND I FEEL SATISFIED WHEN I KNOW THAT I HAVE GIVEN ALL OF MY ENERGY. BUT IT’S NOT MY TOP PRIORITY. I DON’T BELIEVE THAT ONE CAN PRIORITISE WORK OVER FAMILY, FRIENDS OR A PARTNER”.
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Left page: Ball at the Moulin de la Galette, 1876 (oil on canvas). Musee d’Orsay, Paris, France. In this page, from top to bottom, lef to right: Jeune femme au chapeau noir. La Loge (II palco), 1879, 56 x 43 cm. La cueillette des fleurs, 1875, 54,3 x 65,2cm. La baigneuse, 30 x 20cm, Musée d´art et d´historie, Geneve. To gain a better and fuller understanding of Renoir’s works, the exhibition offers guided tours for adults enabling them to pursue the painter’s versatility, as well as a series of didactic and creative activities for youngsters, the aim of which is to introduce them to the world of art. In addition to landscapes, pastoral scenes and human beauty, the exhibition includes a series of still-lifes which arose from the need for experimentation with shapes and colours. It seems that Renoir was always willing to wrestle with the canvas. Non-conformist and transgressor, the exhibition appears to mark the painter’s biographic line: the objective details fight for the limelight against the feelings that pierce through his paintings. Renoir was intense, warm and strong, like a glass of the best wine: an accomplice. The aftertaste that remains in the palate like a frightened bird is the result of magic. His heartbreaking yet inspirational life soaks through every pore of our skin. This is the secret of his success so many years later, so many times. Only geniuses live on.
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Top: Figures on the Beach, 1890, oil on canvas, 20 3/4 x 25 1/4 in (52.7 x 64.1 cm), Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Left: Two Sisters (On the Terrace), 1881, oil on canvas, Art Institute of Chicago. Right: Oarsmen at Chatou, 1879, National Gallery of Art,Washington DC, USA.
came naturally to him, is what has made him eternal and given him meaning. Renoir gave meaning to his life and consequently, without any intention to do so, he has given meaning to everyone’s life. Renoir himself said, “For me, a painting should be an agreeable thing, joyful and pretty, yes pretty”. Not only did he portray this in the human body and face, but he also brought out the beauty in landscapes, outdoor scenes, the countryside, on riverbanks. His landscapes appear to be scenes taken from some kind of fantasy that keeps us lethargic, amazed; Renoir takes them and protects them with the eternity of his paintings: an instant is a whole life. The affection shown in these scenes cannot be explained in words, nor can they be explained other than through Renoir himself. Renoir explains himself with Renoir. That is the true story. There is no human feeling that Renoir leaves untraced: abandonment, self-sacrifice, intensity, delays, hustle and bustle, pauses, love, complicity, wisdom, routine, ecstasy, vivacity, surprise, continence, desperation, sadness, yearning, relief, desire, life, death. 78
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His ability to sculpt the face is absolutely surprising. The subtlety of the women’s features, the weakness portrayed eliminates all traces of breathing. He portrays the human soul and places it in front of a world that appears to be abandoning it, which is nothing further than reality. The human being is not a marginal being, although it appears to be so; it is a being that is in perfect harmony with the trees, flowers, earth. Renoir challenges us with a game of mirrors: one thing would not exist without the other. Renoir drew gentleness as if it were porcelain. That is the beauty: delicate, weak, brittle, dangerous and extremely disquieting. Renoir knew all of our secrets.
From top to bottom, left to right: ‘Bal du moulin de la Galette’ (Dance at the Moulin de la Galette), 1876. Oil on canvas. Pierre-Auguste Renoir (18411919). Study for the Large Bathers by Pierre-Auguste Renoir. 18851901. Oil on canvas. Musee d’Art et d’Histoire, Palais Massena, Nice, France. ‘By the Seashore’, 1883. Pierre-Auguste Renoir.
P R E M I U M P RO P E RT Y C O L L E C T I O N B Y
LA ZAGALETA A
W O R L D
O F
D I F F E R E N C E
La Zagaleta Resort It is a pleasure for us to introduce you to our beautiful resort La Zagaleta and we thank you for your interest in our project. It is likely that you have, at some time, been astounded by the magnificence of an estate situated in exceptional surroundings. This is the impression you will get when you visit La Zagaleta. The concept, as developed by the creators of this project, represents an exceptional challenge. A challenge which, when met, and whilst respecting the environment, makes it possible to reside in a truly splendid place in total harmony with nature. Furthermore, the development includes the extraordinary private sporting facilities and services, amongst which we find a riding club and two 18-hole golf courses for the exclusive use of members and their guests. La Zagaleta was founded in 1991. It is located in the Benahavís hills at approximately 400 metres above sea level, surrounded by impressive views of the Mediterranean, of the Straits of Gibraltar and of the Serranía de Ronda. The estate covers almost 900 hectares of land, totally fenced, with two access gates and a modern and effective 24-hour security service. If we add to this the proximity of the international airports of Málaga and Gibraltar with direct flights to the main European destinations, and also its proximity to Andalusia´s historic heart, it will be easy for you to understand why La Zagaleta has become the ideal location on the Costa del Sol to enjoy a pleasant and quiet lifestyle. A special micro-climate with soothing temperatures in winter, a wonderful natural environment and our renowned exclusivity, makes La Zagaleta the chosen spot for a privileged few to enjoy a dream home.
Signature Villa Collection By
La Zagaleta offers spectacular villas, fully finished or still under construction, as well as plots where we can build your dream home under our Signature line design. Low construction density is our hallmark, allowing a degree of privacy that only a place such as La Zagaleta can offer. All our properties are unique in style and are of the highest quality. Handcrafted finishing, mixing the modern with the traditional, provides these homes with superlative luxury and high-level equipment. The architecture chosen for each home harmonises perfectly with the beautiful gardens and countryside typical of Country Club La Zagaleta. Our designs take full advantage of our mild climate and the abundance of light, allowing rooms to be kept cool via cross ventilation during the warm months, whilst offering protection from the sun through the selective use of porches and volumes that form part of the contemporary beauty of the house. We incorporate the latest technologies in the reduction of energy consumption at home whilst optimizing comfort and silence: geothermal renewable energy, a high level of thermal insulation and high quality joinery are combined with the possibility of installing the latest developments in domotics and illumination. At La Zagaleta you will find everything you expect for the total wellbeing, security and comfort for your family.
Signature Villa Collection By
C2-24 Palo Alto II Located on a privileged hillside, the house is conceived as a viewpoint from which to enjoy views to the seaside and the Mediterranean forest that surrounds the plot. The entrance driveway creates the scene, presenting the house while at the same time offering privacy and discretion.
Designed to be enjoyed, all the elements of the house pursue the stimulation of all senses by the final user, from the gushing cascade that welcomes in the entrance porch, to the water feature that blends with the Mediterranean from the entrance hall, passing through the unique double height living room where the feeling of light, space and scale surround the user in a timeless manner.
Each of the bedrooms comprises a bathroom with views to the sea or the mountain. The bathroom design has been taken care of until the last detail, combining noble materials (solid marble, stainless steel, oak wood), contemporary finishes (Italian tiles that dress the walls) and cutting edge commodities, such as hydro-massage on the main showers, or huge rain showers that turn showering into a pleasure experience. The master bedroom is a feature in itself, located in a private wing of the house, accessible by a floating steel, wood and glass bridge, it has its own private porch and a dressing showroom where the finest threads can be exhibited and stored, together with a large shoe compartment encased in glass.
Signature Villa Collection By
Signature Villa Collection By
Signature Villa Collection By
Signature Villa Collection By
H-18 Elegance The house is built on a magnificent plot of 6.364 m2 and has a superb south west orientation with stunning views towards the Mediterranean sea and the golf course. The ground floor receives us with a hall that is adorned with a majestic dome and flanked by a classic staircase. The independent service entrance leads to a wash area which, in turn, leads to the garage, storeroom, toilet and kitchen. The bright dining room and the main living room opposite are separated by the courtyard of the central terrace. The living room leads onto 2 bedrooms that have wooden beam ceilings, en suite bathrooms and dressing rooms. The top floor has two main bedrooms, with en suite bathrooms and dressing rooms that are linked by a central corridor that has terracotta ornaments. The wealth of the surrounding landscape and the spectacular views can be enjoyed from the covered terraces each of the bedrooms have. There is a hall with a wine cellar on the basement. The left wing includes the service area with a living room, a kitchenette, a bedroom and a bathroom. There are also 2 rooms for the machinery, as well as washroom and a storageroom. The right wing has 2 bedrooms with en suite bathrooms, dressing rooms and their own terraces. The basement will be able to have a cinema, a gym, a sauna, a steam bath, a Jacuzzi, a games room and so on.
Signature Villa Collection By
Signature Villa Collection By
Signature Villa Collection By
Signature Villa Collection By
H-8 Mountain View This villa is part of our new and innovative line of properties “Signature Villas� and characterizes through outstanding quality. The plot of 13.845 m2 is located at the top of one of the highest hills of the development, enjoying large views to the golf course, the adjacent valleys and the impressive mountains, as well as the the views to the Mediterranean Sea and the Rock of Gibraltar. The distribution in three levels starts from the basement where the recreational activities inside the house take place: the cinema, the wine cellar and the indoor swimming pool bathed in natural light from the vertical patios which have subtropical interior gardens that confer an atmosphere of privacy and tranquillity. This swimming pool is supported with jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath and an area for a gym. On the ground floor we can find all public and noble areas of the villa as well as a separate wing for guests’ bedrooms and a open sitting room with fireplace. The main bedrooms, bathrooms en suite and dressing rooms are located on the second floor.
Signature Villa Collection By
Signature Villa Collection By
Signature Villa Collection By
G-19 Marrakech The house is in its final phase of construction. It is being built on a magnificent plot of 3.743 m2 and has a superb South-West orientation with extraordinary views to “Los Barrancos” golf course, “Sierra Bermeja” and the “Serranía de Ronda” mountains. We access the property through a beautiful entrance gate executed in grey colored iron. After crossing a leveled bridge over a water mirror, framed between two big built volumes which gives us the feeling to “walk on water” we enter the house through a patio. The entrance hall is filled with light by cream marble floors and white colored walls. From here we communicate with the rest of the house. This fantastic property offers 5 bedrooms en suite, staff apartment, indoor pool and spa facilities, plus a 4 car garage. The allover impression of this construction is of generous white prismatic volumes with Mediterranean flavor, space and serenity in an extraordinary surrounding.
Signature Villa Collection By
Ctra. de Ronda, Km. 38,5. Benahavís (Málaga) Tel.: +34 952 855 450 - Weekend Mobile: +34 687 443 045 - Fax: +34 952 855 313 E-Mail: sales@lazagaleta.com - www.lazagaleta.com Viewing by appointment only - Contact: Maika Díaz Rivero, Sales Director
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gourmet
I WANT ONE OF THOSE: TOP WINE ACCESSORIES EVERY GOOD BOTTLE OF WINE DESERVES TO BE STORED, OPENED AND DRUNK IN STYLE. SOMETIMES WINE ACCESSORIES BECOME WORKS OF ART, CHILDREN OF CRAFT, CREATIVITY AND PASSION. SOME ARE EXTRAORDINARILY PRACTICAL; OTHERS, EXTREMELY COLLECTABLE, BUT ALL A TESTAMENT TO THE UNION OF STYLE AND SUBSTANCE THAT DO NOT NEED TO BE MUTUALLY EXCLUSIVE. IF YOU ARE A WINE CONNOISSEUR, YOU WOULD WANT ONE OF THESE.
Le Creuset WA142 Vitesse Aerating Wine Fountain
L’Atelier du Vin Decanting Horn Aerator This rather sizable decanting horn is your ally in keeping wine well aerated and free from any unwanted sediments thanks to its internal mesh filter. Price £119.00. www.harrods.com
Wine fountains add a great element of theatre to the dinner table. The Vitesse decanting fountain includes an aeration device; air bubbles flow up into the wine bottle, kick- starting the aeration process. Price £69.95. www.harrods.com
Goblet by Jocelyn Burton
London-based Jocelyn Burton is one of the most celebrated metalworkers and silversmiths in the UK. She uses silver, gold, precious stones in her work. Jocelyn Burton has designed for international elite, including the members of royal families around the world. Her work can be found in the V&A Museum, St Paul’s Cathedral, Goldsmiths’ Hall, 10 Downing Street and the palace of Sheikh Mohammed Al Maktoum of Dubai. Most items are individually commissioned and the price should be confirmed on application.This pentagonal goblet made with sterling silver and set with blue topaz is a perfect drinking vessel for a king or a queen. Price £5,000. www.jocelynburton.com
Brissi Silver Double Ice
This sleek champagne cooler will make a great party accessory. Firstly, it can accommodate not one, but two champagne bottles at once. Secondly, it’s silver plated brass surfaces and contemporary design makes it a great interior accessory and a perfect gift for a person with a refined sense of style. Price £165. www.brissi.com
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“Verre 100 Points” by Lalique
At the wake of the 20th century, the founder of the company, René Jules Lalique , was well-known for designing exquisite perfume bottles and vases for François Coty. Today Lalique is the leading expert in the world of crystal and their glasses are a collector’s dream.This simple and elegant glass, named Verre 100 Points, was created by Lalique and James Suckling, an internationally acclaimed American wine critic who has tasted more than 150,000 different wines over his career.The glass is fit for any wine: red, white, young or old.Tasting glass: £90. Set of 6 glasses: £540. www.lalique.com
Le Creuset Trigger Lever Corkscrew Black Nickel
Ten years of effortless de-corking that’s the promise from Le Creuset to everyone who buys this trigger lever corkscrew. Its ergonomic design is irreproachable; the screw grips around the bottle securely, the end of lever handle applies just the right pressure.The result: a sleek accessory at your bar, and plenty of smoothly opened bottles. Price £95. www.selfridges.com
Athena Set From William Yeoward Crystal
This set of tall glasses and a jug represent unique design and quality. Athena with its stately proportions would make a great statement on the table.The glasses are handmade and hand cut in the finest crystal.The jug is there to for decanting champagne – the design has been drawn from the 19th century piece when decanting champagne was introduced.The neck of the jug has to be very narrow to preserve precious champagne bubbles.William Yeoward Crystal is made using the traditional methods and sold in prestigious retailers like Bergdorf Goodman and Harrods. Price: champagne flute £210, champagne jug £587. www.williamyeowardcrystal.com
Georg Jensen Cocktail Champagne Cooler
Over the decades the Danish silversmith Georg Jensen has been synonymous with excellent silverware. It is his innovative yet elegant design that has set him apart from the rest. This polished stainless steel Champagne Cooler is a perfect accompaniment for any great celebration. Price: £190. www.selfridges.co.uk
Georg Jensen Legacy Pitcher
Start your own Legacy today, suggests Greg Jensen with this new series of silverware.The voluptuous hourglass pitcher was designed in 2009 by a sensible Danish designer Philip Bro Ludvigden who favours contemporary style, and is as beautiful as it is practical. Made of mirrorpolished stainless steel, it will serve well to generations to come. Price £140. www.selfridges.com
Riedel Mamba Crystal Wine Decanter
Ridel is a big name in the wine industry, synonymous with fine and well-crafted glassware, and favoured by top sommeliers. This mouth-blown decanter was designed by Maximilain Riedel himself in 2011. Not only does it look like a unique work of art, it is also functional – the shape allows to aerate wine up to 18 times faster than any other decanter. Price £395. www.riedel.com
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exhibition outdoor
Il Bacio dell’Hotel de Ville, 1950 copyright © atelier Robert Doisneau
Autoportrait au Rolleiflex, 1947 copyright © atelier Robert Doisneau
The photo ‘Le baiser de l’hôtel de ville’ was taken by Doisneau in 1950 for Life Magazine after Doisneau was commissioned to get shots of couples in Paris for a spread. Its popularity erupted years later, when a publisher asked Doisneau in 1986 if he could use the photo for a poster and Doisneau allowed it. Doisneau revealed that the picture had in fact been staged after he had seen Ms. Bornet and Jacques Carteaud kissing and asked them if they could do it again for a photo. Doisneau then photographed Bornet and Carteau, both hopeful actors, in three different locations, which included the final location near to the the Hôtel de Ville. After they posed, Doisneau gave Bornet a print of the photo with his stamp and signature. Bornet auctioned her print of the photo in 2005, where it was sold for the equivalent of $242,000. “The photo was posed,” Bornet said in an interview with French media. “But the kiss was real.”
Over 240 original photographs taken by Doisneau in the Ville Lumière between 1934 and 1991, grouped by themes around his favourite subjects, are to be displayed in a major anthological retrospective at the Palazzo delle Esposizioni( Rome) from 29 September 2012 to 3 February 2013.
THE PERSON BEHIND a large number of photographs, focusing MAINLY on Paris, Doisneau was to become the most illustrious exponent of “humanist” photography in France. His pictures today are held by some of the greatest COLLECTORS in France, the United States and Great Britain and they are regularly exhibited throughout the world.
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Pont d’Iéna, 1945 copyright © atelier Robert Doisneau
Robert Doisneau
Paris en liberté
Robert Doisneau and Paris, an encounter between two inseparable partners: one of the greatest French photographers and the city that he loved and immortalised with his lens. The exhibition will take the visitor on a fascinating tour of the gardens of Paris, along the Seine, the city streets, through the suburbs, and into the bistrots, fashion houses and art galleries of the French capital. Robert Doisneau (1912-1994), who liked to compare himself to Atget, photographed the Parisian suburbs in an effort to “capture the treasures that his contemporaries unwittingly transmitted”. His Paris is both humanistic and generous, but also sublime, revealing itself in the naked reality of daily existence. No one has ever come closer than Doisneau to capturing the (occasionally revisited) truth of the Parisians’ daily life.
a young man while working in an advertising agency specializing in pharmaceutical products. After working with Vigneau, he went on to become the official photographer for the Renault motor works in 1934, but was sacked five years later on the grounds that he so rarely showed up for work. He became a free-lance photographer and illustrator in 1939, and joined the Rapho agency on a permanent basis in 1946. The Chateau d’Eau Gallery in Toulouse held an exhibition of his work in 1974, and it was in the seventies that he finally began to achieve recognition. Since then, his photographs have been published, reproduced and sold throughout the world.
Doisneau, who has become something of a household name today, graduated from the Ecole Estienne and discovered photography as 85
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DESIGN
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OUTDOOR EMOTIONS THE GARDEN IS NOT JUST A PART OF YOUR HOUSE: IT IS A SPACE TO LIVE, ENJOYING NATURE’S VITALISING SENSATIONS
written by Chiara Brollo
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4 1 • CRINOLINE
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Patricia Urquiola for B&B Italia 3D texture develops into the soft and sinuous shapes of a well armchair, available in different colours.
2 • CANISSE Philippe Nigro for Serralunga An extremely natural-looking outdoor chair with an eclectic and decorative design. “Cannes de Provence” is evoked in this chair.
3 • TOKYO OUTDOOR Charlotte Perriand for Cassina’s Masters Collection A project conceived in 1940 but never produced,Tokyo is now being manufactured by Cassina under exclusive worldwide licence, presenting its bamboo version.
4 • STRIPES Piero Lissoni for Pierantonio Bonacina Outdoor armchairs in aluminium, polypropylene, polyurethane and Fiberfill, available with either high or low backrests and different depths.
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5 • TERRA
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Bram Bollen for Tribù The Canax® daybed can be adjusted to 6 different positions:The ultimate in perfection for lots of gardens and poolside lounges.
6 • SDRAIO by MissoniHome King-size adjustable deckchairs in striped PVC Navas, made out of painted iroko wood for outdoor use.
7 • DESERT MODERN by Ralph Lauren Home A streamlined oasis inspired by the vast beauty of the Western Frontier highlights the architectural features of these furnishings.
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DESIGN
10 8 • NEWPORT by Fendi Casa An elegant line featuring large volumes and modularity. A wide selection of cushions and accessories is also available.
airy structures made out of a new technological, 100% recyclable material.
10 • BASKET 9 • FLAT
Gordon Guillaumier for Roda Pared-down formal simplicity is the feature of this elegant collection of modular sofas and tables in different sizes.
Mario Ruiz for Gandia Blasco An essentially formal and functional collection with light and
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11 • SAVANNAH Johannes Foersom & Peter HiortLorenzen Designere MDD for Cane These handcrafted daybeds can be used alone or joined together to relax in the shade under a floating sunscreen.
12 • CITY CAMP Annette Hinterwirth for Dedon A versatile and functional all-in-one living unit inspired by the base camps of ancient explorers.
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la zagaleta lifestyle magazine
DESIGN
11 13• KETTAL COTTAGE Patricia Urquiola for Kettal A charming cabin to relax in comfort and enjoy the outdoor atmosphere and landscape.
14 • WAVE Erik Nyberg & Gustav Ström & Kris Van Puyvelde for Royal Botania Functionality, beauty and elegance in a construction that can rotate 90˚ depending on the position of the sun.
15 • NU-OVO Paolo Maldotti for Tisettanta A multi-functional and versatile cell suitable for domestic use for outdoor environments and well-being.
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corporate
The proximity to the ocean, the views of Gibraltar and the African coast, the tranquility and the beauty of pure silence. These are certainly some of the main reasons clients finally decide upon settling in La Zagaleta. But one of the advantages of being located among the mountain range of Ronda is the varied wildlife. From deer to mouflon, to varied species of birds and small owls, fall days at La Zagaleta can be a scene right out of a nature book.
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PLEASANT ENCOUNTERS
FAUNA OF LA ZAGALETA DURING THE MONTH OF OCTOBER, THE CALLS OF DEER AND MOUFLON BREAK THE PLACID SILENCE AT LA ZAGALETA, ANNOUNCING THAT MATING SEASON IS AT ITS PIQUE. THE DEER SIGHTINGS – WHICH ARE COMMON FOR THOSE OF US WORKING AT LA ZAGALETA – BECOME MORE AND MORE FREQUENT. WHILE THE SIGHTINGS NORMALLY OCCUR IN THE UNDEVELOPED AREAS OF THE ESTATE, IN THE FALL MONTHS, THE ANIMALS ARE SPOTTED JUST OUTSIDE OUR OFFICE DOORS, SOME OF THEM COMING CLOSE ENOUGH TO BE TOUCHED. Photos by Jose Manuel Comino/LaZagaleta.
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corporate
One of the main attractions of the area is the nearby Sierra de las Nieves. It has a great natural wealth, with many plant and animal species, some of them totally unique in the world, such as the Pinsapo tree. There is one in particular, the Pinsapo Las Escaleretas, which has been declared a natural monument. The park also has a sample of a 1000-year-old chestnut tree: the Holy Brown.They have also reintroduced several samples of golden eagles that have adapted very well, casually seen in La Zagaleta.
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PAUL MARCIANO, AN ESSENTIAL HALF OF GUESS, SAYS: “THE ESSENCE OF THE GUESS LOOK IS CALIFORNIAN CHIC WITH A EUROPEAN TWIST AND SOPHISTICATION. IT IS A TIMELESS, SEXY FEMININITY THAT WILL STILL BE CLASSIC AND TRENDY FOR FIVE, TEN, FIFTY YEARS TO COME.”
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books
La Zagaleta Library Diccionario LID Lujo y responsabilidad María Eugenia Girón A multi-disciplinary team of eight experts from the luxury sector have taken the most relevant terms from marketing and business management, responsible and sustainable luxury, jewellery and watch making, fashion and tendencies, accessories, perfumery and fragrances, cosmetics, beauty and wellbeing, lifestyle, associations, forums and other organisations, making this collection an essential tool for professionals from these sectors, specialised translators and interpreters and for students of related subjects.
How Brands Grow Byron Sharp This book provides evidence-based answers to the key questions asked by marketers every day and presents decades of research in a style that is written for marketing professionals to grow their brands.The most distinctive element to this book is that the laws presented are tried and tested; they have been found to hold over varied conditions, time and countries. This is contrary to most marketing texts and indeed, much information provides evidence that much modern marketing theory is far from soundly based.
Unveiling Fashion: Business, Culture, and Identity in the Most Glamorous Industry FRÉDÉRIC GODART A careful overview of fashion as an industry and as a form of cultural practice. From Plato to Prada, Godart weaves history, economics, sociology, and organization and legal studies into an elegant statement on the nature of dress and social change. Godart reveals the transformation of courtiers into celebrated brands and business empires, which are rooted in the modern logic of distinction, anchored in global cities, and today wield enormous influence in our everyday lives.
Marc Jacobs Advertising 1998-2009 Marc Jacobs, Juergen Teller For over a decade Juergen Teller has worked with Marc Jacobs on the advertising campaigns for each of the Men’s and Women’s Marc Jacobs collections. Teller’s idiosyncratic visual style and use of unusual models has been instrumental in establishing what has become one of the pre-eminent fashion brands of our times.This book brings together a selection of images from all the campaigns into a collection that marks how significant this collaboration has been in both fashion and visual culture.
Stylist: The Interpreters of Fashion Sarah Mower Featuring sixteen of today’s top tastemakers, Stylist focuses on these fashion insiders whose precocious sense for the next big thing often results in trends of global proportions. Author Sarah Mower’s interviews with the most influential stylists distill for us through conversation and example the fine art of the fashion pronouncement and what it means to be at the threshold of the cutting edge.
The Model as Muse: Embodying Fashion Harold Koda The book explores fashion’s reciprocal relationship to iconic beauties that represent the evolution and changing face of the feminine ideal. Featuring a brief historical overview of the phenomenon of the supermodel, the book begins in the early 20th century and continues to the present day. The author, Harold Koda, is Curator in Charge at The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, and the author of many fashion books.
IN VOGUE Alberto Oliva, Norberto Angeletti In 1909, an entrepreneurial New Yorker named Condé Nast took charge of a struggling society journal and transformed it into the most glamorous fashion magazine of the twentieth century. The thoroughly researched story incorporates first-person accounts, interviews with editors and photographers, and excerpts from stories written in the magazine by many world-renowned writers, including Truman Capote, Aldous Huxley, Richard Burton, Federico Fellini, and Marcello Mastroianni.
Fashion Brands: Branding Style from Armani to Zara MARK TUNGATE This new edition of the international best-seller Fashion Brands explores the popularization of fashion and explains how marketers and branding experts have turned clothes and accessories into objects of desire. Full of first hand interviews with key players, it analyses every aspect of fashion from a marketing perspective. With its finger firmly on the fashion pulse, it also looks at the impact of blogging and the rise of celebrity-endorsed products and fashion ranges.
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La Zagaleta Recommends ART MA YANSONG AT THE ICO MUSEUM The ICO Museum in Madrid will exhibit the avant-garde and spectacular work of MAD Architects from 31st October until 3rd March 2013 in an exhibition under the name of “Ma Yansong. Entre modernidad (global) y la tradición(local)” (Ma Yansong: Between (global) modernity and (local) tradition).With its headquarters in Peking, it was founded in 2004 by the young, Chinese architect, Ma Yansong, one of the most influential voices among a new generation of architects, whose work is already shaping the 21st century city. C/ Zorrilla, 3 – 28014 Madrid www.fundacionico.es
PRODUCT JAGUAR CONCEPT SPEEDBOAT Jaguar Cars has developed the Concept Speedboat project with the collaboration and the help of a bespoke design firm and a yacht design specialist. The Concept Speedboat has a polyester resin coated fibre-glass hull, featuring natural teak decking on top. It is divided by a carbon-fibre fin, inspired by the iconic D-Type. The front of the boat flows seamlessly into the screen, whilst the 2+1 red cabin reflects the present and past sporting tradition of Jaguar vehicles. www.jaguar.com
RESTAURANT t.a.r.t.a.n
BUSINESS MON MONOGRAM GARMENT BAG BY LOUIS VUITTON
A restaurant by the name of t.a.r.t.a.n is based on the values that give it its name, a Scottish fabric that is warm and classic, yet modern. Its chef and creator, Javier MuñozCalero, brings ideas and experiences from Thailand, Switzerland and France, where he has worked and studied. Between wooden touches and tartan tablecloths, you can savour classic dishes, such as onion soup with Comte cheese toasted bread or sautéed octopus with new potatoes. The “Kinder Nut” surprise is also worthy of mention. C/General Pardiñas, 56 – 28001 Madrid www.unrestaurantellamadotartan.es
Louis Vuitton has always offered clients the possibility of personalising their products in all of its stores around the world – not only to identify a traveller’s luggage and accessories, but also to offer originality and uniqueness – through two personalisation services: “Hot Stamping” and “Painting”, whereby the latter is only available for trunks and hard-cased suitcases. Recently, the Mon Monogram technique has also been made available for its garment bags, with over 200 possible combinations. www.louisvuitton.com
SHOP HUGO BOSS OPENS IN SAN SEBASTIAN
DIGITAL VEUVE CLICQUOT RENEWS ITS WEB-SITE
EVENT AMERICAN EXPRESS LUXURY SUMMIT 2013
Developed in 8 different languages, veuve-clicquot.com is much more than a corporate web-site: it shows the brand innovations in each of its main markets, as well as the latest events and product launches. It is also the centre for the House’s digital tools: its social networks (Facebook and Twitter), its Wish You Were Here lifestyle site, and its new editorial application for mobile phones, Clicquot INSIGHT (available for iPhone, iPAD and soon for Androïd). www.veuve-clicquot.com
Established in 1999, the American Express Publishing Summit is dedicated to the luxury industry throughout the world, led by the editors of Travel + Leisure, Food & Wine, Departures, Executive Travel and Black Ink. In 2013, by-invitation-only top tier executives will gather at the St. Regis in Monarch Beach California to discuss the evolving needs of the affluent consumer. Past speakers include the COO of Chanel, Inc. and the CMO of Audi American, among others.
DESIGN PS INTERIOR Certainly one of the most acclaimed interior designers for La Zagaleta clients, PS Interior has extensive experience dressing luxury homes. Lourdes Pérez Díaz heads the studio, incorporating inspiration from her many travels. The firm works on a private and flexible basis, adjusting to the needs and tastes of the home owner and works on one-time projects to large-scale renovations. PS Interior is located just outside Puerto Banús. C/Avda Pablo Ruiz Picasso 62- Edf. Juncal – Local 7, San Pedro de Alcantara – Marbella.Tlf: +34 629 116 001
www.amexpub.com/luxurysummit/past.html
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The German firm opens its second shop in the Basque Country this year, this time in San Sebastian. Located in one of the city’s most important commercial streets and close to the emblematic La Concha beach, the shop has a surface area of 290m2 spanning two floors.The most representative lines for men and women, such as BOSS Black, BOSS Orange and BOSS Green will be available. C/ Arrasate, 16 – 20005 San Sebastián www.hugoboss.com
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Oxford Cambridge race the annual Oxford-Cambridge race along a historic stretch of the Thames in London has become more than a highlight of thE sporting calendar. The Boat Race between Oxford and Cambridge, the most famous and prestigious one in the world, is not just a race between two great universities; it also proves the worth of each of the crew members and an entire year of effort and sacrifice in search of a reward, a moment of glory. The Boat Race, an immovable tradition of Great Britain, does not only promote education – as it is a race exclusive to students – but also the values that will make the most of these young men: effort, determination and teamwork. They all have the same purpose: to better themselves, gain self-esteem, confidence, attitude and aptitude.
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The Oxford University rowing crew go into training early for the Oxford-Cambridge Boat Race.The rowers carry their boat down to the river for an outing at Henley in September, in preparation for the race in April of the following year(1934).
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The Secretary (A Burroughs) and the President (T B Langton) of the Cambridge rowing club before the first practice for the University Boat Race with Oxford.(1938).
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studies. The public knows that these men who fight to continue One afternoon during Spring vacation, Charles Wordsworth, making history and ensure that history falls on their side, must nephew of one of the greatest poets to come out of England, continue to fight once the race is over, once their skilled and William Wordsworth, was rowing on the Cam (Cambridge is useful task in this competition is over, and they will have to face located on the banks of this river). Wordsworth remembers real life. However, they start off with an advantage as a result of Harrow Pupils, where he met Charles Merrivale, who at that the path they have gone down and what they have undergone time was a fellow at St. John’s, Cambridge. Wordsworth was on the way: tough preparation, consistency, the immense a fellow at Christ Church College, Oxford. On one such satisfaction of always giving two hundred percent even when afternoon, one of them challenged the other. On 10th February the starting and finishing line are still a long way off. They will 1829, following a meeting, Mr. Snow of St. John’s was asked be able to apply all of this fight, effort and determination shown to write to Mr. Staniforth of Christ Church, stating: “that the in training, trials and preparation for the championship to the University of Cambridge hereby challenge the University of life that hides behind the Oxford to row a match at wood that has surrounded or near London, each in an them until then. They can eight-oared boat during the face it with impetus, health ensuing Easter vacation”. and eagerness. Snow and Staniforth had been boating comrades at Oxford and Cambridge, Eton and had unknowingly known for their rivalry begun to make history as “Oxbridge”, are the on 10th June 1829, when two oldest universities the first race took place, in the United Kingdom, which Oxford won easily founded over eight hundred at Henley-on-Thames, years ago. For centuries, the river that would they were the only two contemplate the history universities on the island of the boat race and the and soon developed a fierce feelings that ooze from competitiveness; not only such a passionate and selfdid they argue their prestige sacrificing competition. in all possible fields, but they Oxford’s winning boat also tried to cast a shadow can be seen at the River Cambridge University rowing crew leading Oxford at Hammersmith Bridge during the over the opposing side, & Rowing Museum in University Boat Race on the River Thames, spreading the glory of their Henley. Although the London, between Putney and Mortlake. Camown success. Such enmity bridge went on to win by four lengths (1939). race is now an annual and rivalry was developed competition, it was held on in public, whereas behind an irregular basis over the closed doors, Oxford and Cambridge produced some of the most first twenty-five years: the second race did not take place until prominent scientists and artists in the history of England. When 1836 when the competition was also moved to London. Cambridge challenged Oxford in 1829, a new opportunity for confrontation, struggle and triumph opened between them. It is It is impossible for such a prestigious boat race that arouses so a division that continues to be filled each year by the winner and much expectation to have survived over the years if the values loser. To date, Cambridge has eighty-one victories compared to that align the needs and desires of the public with those of the Oxford’s seventy-five. The most recent race in 2012 was won by rowers had not exploded in each and every one of these boat Cambridge. However, it was a closely fought and eventful race. races.Those watching know that the crews are giving everything In addition to having to stop the race due to an impromptu not only in the minutes that the competition lasts, but also in the swimmer that Oxford almost hit, after the restart the crews of weeks, months and years that they have been training to reach both universities were so close to each other that their oars, glory on the Thames. A crew member must be dedicated both which have been made out of carbon fibre since the eighties, in and out of the water, on board the boat, or in hand and in his
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collided with each other, whereby one of Oxford’s oars broke. However, neither of the boats sank, as has been the case on up to six occasions, including 1912, when both boats sank, coinciding with the same year that the Titanic sank. Neither was there a dead-tie, which has only ever happened once to date, on 24th March 1877. The crews must show their corresponding clubs that they are self-sacrificing men, whose worth and strength does not only lie in their muscles or physical capacity, but also in their psychological stamina. A sportsman knows that one’s mind must be organised, relaxed and prepared “Mens sana in corpore sano” in order to have a healthy body that is prepared for sacrifice and rowing is perhaps one of the sports that abuses body and mind. Rowing proves that balance between mind and body must be absolute for such a hard and absorbing test as this boat race. Crews must train three hours a day, six days a week for seven months. The harshness of the training ensures that the crews never neglect the values that may enable them to live one of the most glorious moments in their university days. They must look after their diet, save their strength for a mere twenty minutes of competition and they must forego their social life to keep up the high standards that are expected of them. The two clubs, Cambridge University Boat Club and Oxford University Boat
From top to bottom:Two BBC sportscasters sit on a boat with radios on the River Thames for the annual Boat Race (1930). Oxford beat Cambridge. Oxford crew, left, lead Cambridge at Barnes Bridge. Oxford going on to win the four and a quarter mile race (6th April 1974). Cambridge beat Oxford in the record time of 17 minutes and 50 seconds to gain their 50th win in the annual event (1948).
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FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: The Cambridge University rowing crew bringing out their boat before the University Boat Race against Oxford on the River Thames, London, between Putney and Mortlake (1932). The winning crew coming ashore after the Oxford and Cambridge Boat Race in the River Thames (1864) for the Head Of The River Race. Some of the crews who are taking part in the Head Of The River Race on Saturday getting in trim at Putney. The race is held after the Oxford and Cambridge boat race (1932).
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OXFORD - CAMBRIDGE RACE YEAR
WINNER
28th March 1987 2nd April 1988 25th March 1989 31st March 1990 30th March 1991 4th April 1992 27th March 1993 26th March 1994 1st April 1995 6th April 1996 29th March 1997 28th March 1998 3rd April 1999 25th March 2000 24th March 2001 30th March 2002 6th April 2003 28th March 2004 27th March 2005 2nd April 2006 7th April 2007 29th March 2008 29th March 2009 3rd April 2010 26th March 2011 7th April 2012
Oxford Oxford Oxford Oxford Oxford Oxford Cambridge Cambridge Cambridge Cambridge Cambridge Cambridge Cambridge Oxford Cambridge Oxford Oxford Cambridge Oxford Oxford Cambridge Oxford Oxford Cambridge Oxford Cambridge
The Oxford University team rowing on the River Thames at Putney during a training session for the University Boat Race against Cambridge (1935).
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Some Interesting Facts The greatest victory margin belongs to Cambridge, who won by twenty lengths in 1900. Cambridge also holds two very different records: the fastest and the slowest boat race, with a time of 16 minutes and 19 seconds in 1998 and a time of 26 minutes and 5 seconds in 1860. Cambridge has also obtained the most consecutive victories: a total of 13 between 1924 and 1936. During the Second Wo rld War, four unofficial races were held (1940, 1943, 1944 and 1945), which are not included in the overall results. The Boat Race is held on the last Saturday in March or the first Saturday in April, at half past four sharp. The Championship Course is 6.8 Km from Putney to Mortlake. The loser must challenge the winner to a rematch the following year.
Left: The Oxford coxswain G J C Merifield signing autographs on the towpath at Putney, London, during a break from training for the forthcoming University Boat Race (1938). Top: An oar on the CUBC boat enters the water during Tideway Week running up to the 2009 University Boat Race between Oxford University and Cambridge University on the River Thames. Bottom: General view of Wellies worn by Oxford during the boat race between Oxford and Leander, as a preview to the 2010 Oxford and Cambridge University Boat Race sponsored by Xchanging.
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Top from left to right:This unusual photo taken twenty-four hours before the annual OxfordCambridge boat race on the Thames shows two members of the Cambridge crew walking on the tow path at Putney with three Oxford crew members just before Cambridge took to the water for final practice.They met by accident on the path and walked along together (1930). Cambridge University Boat Race hopefuls compete in the trial eights on the Thames to see who will be selected for April’s race against Oxford (1994).The Oxford boat race crew, who will meet Cambridge in the annual University Boat Race in April, held their first practice on the Thames at Henley (1931).
candidates compete for eight places.
Club expect the best of them and must educate them in order to squeeze the necessary potential out of them. The rivalry and competition begins in September each year when over forty
Since 1965, the Blue Boats, as the two boats are known: light blue for Cambridge (except in 1829 when they were pink) and dark blue for Oxford, have had a group of reserve rowers
The clubs are responsible for instilling in the rowers that they must add that extra grain of success to the history of the universities.
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who also compete against each other: the Isis (Oxford) and the Goldie (Cambridge). The latter has the upper hand in terms of victories for the time being, as is the case with the first crew. It seems as if Cambridge is made out of something different. The Boat Race between Oxford and Cambridge is as much a British tradition as afternoon tea at five o’clock. Since the beginning of time, the English have always liked to honour the traditions that have made them what they are and have
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positioned them among the elite in many and varied disciplines throughout history. Not only have they remained loyal in educational terms, whereby they have been able to maintain the Bottom from left to right: Cox Colin Groshong is thrown into the River Thames in celebration after Oxford are victorious during the 155th Oxford & Cambridge University Boat Race on the River Thames on March 29, 2009 in London, England. The Oxford University Boat Race crew take part in the grueling OUBC 5k Ergo Test on February 7, 2012 in Oxford, United Kingdom. The 2012 Xchanging University Boat Race will take place on the River Thames on Saturday 7th April. Moritz Hafner of Oxford stands and celebrates as Oxford win the 157th Oxford and Cambridge University Boat Race on the River Thames on March 26, 2011 in London, England.
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MORE Interesting Facts The famous actor, Hugh Laurie, who played Doctor House, is one of the personalities to have participated in the Boat Race. He did so for Cambridge in 1980. The closest race in recent years was in 2003: Oxford beat Cambridge by one foot. In 1981, Sue Brown became the first woman to participate in the Boat Race as cox of the Oxford crew. In 1989, both crews were coxed by a woman. The Boat Race is one of the oldest sporting events. Until 2001, a Cambridge umpire alternated each year with an Oxford umpire. Following the controversial 2001 Boat Race, where an umpire stopped and restarted the race following a clash of blades, a panel of umpires was established, consisting of four umpires from each university, chaired by a senior umpire. Both the boats and the oars, known as blades, have been improved over the years. In the first races, the rowers would grease their seats and trousers with oil to generate greater mobility and speed of movement.
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From top to bottom: CUBC crew memeber Rob Weitemeyer takes the oars back to the boat house during Tideway Week running up to the 2009 University Boat Race between Oxford University and Cambridge University on the River Thames on March 28, 2009 in London, England. Close-up view of a rower’s arms pulling the oar through the water during Tideway Week running up to the 2009 University Boat Race between Oxford University and Cambridge University on the River Thames on March 28, 2009 in London, England.
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supremacy: the determination, the ability to rise again, the ability to work as a team and overcome although considered to be the underdog; bravery, a fighting spirit, self-sacrifice, effort and dedication; coordination, intelligence which is constantly ready to overcome; eagerness. Perhaps precisely for all this and what this boat race says of them, the event has become a British National Institution.
innocence of competition between students. Since 1993, no crew member can take part in the race as an undergraduate on more than four occasions, nor may they do so as a postgraduate on more than four occasions, nor may they receive a prize (if their university is the winner) if they have not successfully completed the academic year. On the contrary, they have adapted the boat race traditions to their life in the most natural possible way: the boat races appear in novels and tales by English authors, and the event, which is broadcast by radio and the BBC, attracts over three hundred thousand people on both banks of the course and millions of television spectators (the estimated audience for the 2004 Boat Race is five hundred million spectators) worldwide. The Boat Race shows all of the values that the English have strived to defend throughout their history, faced with so many situations that have attempted to end their 113
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ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA PRIVATE VIEWINGS
The Italian firm, Ermenegildo Zegna, held a week-long private viewing for La Zagaleta residents and friends. Held at villa C2-24, the main floor of the home was transformed into a showroom, leading guests through a full experience of the brand’s identity. From vintage images of Zegna’s history, to an exposition of the Fall/Winter 2013 Fashion Show Collection, to a private fitting room, the exhibit was truly exceptional. Guests also enjoyed a personalized tasting menu created by El Lago’s Head Chef, Diego del Río, who was on hand each day to present the dishes. One of Zegna’s outstanding features is the “Su Misura” service, which allows customers to express their personality by choosing made-to-measure suits coats, shirts and even ties according to taste. Zegna’s product range also expands from handmade shoes and leather accessories (made from ostrich and alligator skins) to an Upper Casual collection that this season plays on neutral tones and works with cashmere and denim, without forgetting the classic Prince of Gales and plaid prints. Also on display at the event was the Monterubello Watch collection made by the master watchmaker Girard-Perregaux, and inspired in the 1940s in white and rose gold, as well as one-of-a-kind pieces made from the precious most finest fabric vicuña. Ermenegildo Zegna’s boutique is located in Puerto Banús.
Ermenegildo Zegna’s boutique
Muelle Ribera, Local 31 Puerto Banús - Marbella Spain Tlf.: +34 952 907 967
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LAND ROVER PRESENTS THE NEW RANGE ROVER VOGUE
Land Rover chose La Zagaleta as one of a handful of locations for the exclusive presentation of the new Range Rover Vogue - weeks before its official worldwide launch. The second week of October, the Land Rover team took over the newest of La Zagaleta’s Signature Villas, named “Mountain View”. Guests could see everything from the multiple terrains that the Vogue can overrun, as well as the model itself. On Thursday, October 11th, a private party was held to honor the official closing of the event, where 150 guests enjoyed catering by Calima’s Dani Garcia and live entertainment throughout the night.
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I OWE PART OF MY CAREER TO LUCK. MY MOTHER ALWAYS SAYS THAT LUCK IS THE COMBINATION OF PREPARATION AND OPPORTUNITY. I HAVE HAD EXTRAORDINARY OPPORTUNITIES TO WORK WITH AMAZING DIRECTORS BEFORE I HAD ENOUGH TALENT
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INSPIRING SIMPLICITY
From Princess to Queen of Films WITH A FRAGILE AND INNOCENT IMAGE, ANNE HATHAWAY HAS REACHED THE IMPOSSIBLE FILM STARDOM. HER BEAUTY AND HER VERSATILITY CAPTIVATE THE PUBLIC, WHO HAS SEEN HER GROW AND MATURE FROM HER ROLE AS A SCRUFFY ADOLESCENT WITH A TITLE AND EVOLVE INTO HOLLYWOOD’S NEW CATWOMAN. ANNE ENAMOURS ALL WITH HER EYES, HER SMILE AND HER IRRESISTIBLE AND SINGULAR PERSONALITY. A perfect and seductive smile and her innocent sweet eyes are Anne Hathaway’s letter of presentation. This perfect balance between sensuality and naïvety have made her a safe asset in Hollywood, a star capable of shining when interpreting an adolescent who aspires to become a princess, and doesn’t fade away after an incredible metamorphosis in the screen version of “Les Miserables”. Hathaway is a rising star, her versatility mesmerised even President Barak Obama in the final installment of Batman trilogy, where she incarnates the explosive super heroine, Catwoman.
comfort zone. I don’t have anything against “The Princess Diaries” but, sometimes, it has become a stone wall in my career”. The truth is that this movie managed to impulse her as an actress, especially, among the younger public, and during some time she was typecast as the good innocent girl of family films. In the sequel of The Princess Diaries, her fellow cast member, Julie Andrews recommended her to change register to break with her candid image and open to new fields in Hollywood. “Anyone who has been a model for children needs a break. It is nice to think that my audience is growing with me”.
Anne Hathaway belongs to a new generation of actresses who are fearless and break the moulds, full of tenacity and passion for her work. She longs for interpretation. However, this young woman from Brooklyn was predestined to succeed in the world of interpretation. Her mother is also an actress and, since the very start, she was one of her main supporters. “I never dreamed of becoming a star and seeing my name on billboards. I would spend my days singing, interpreting scenes and pretending to be someone else. My brothers used to love it and my parents never asked me to stop”.
Then came “Brokeback Mountain”: Hathaway took off her princess tiara to incarnate the wife of a homosexual cowboy in the ‘60s. She not only got rid of her baggage, but she also discovered the type of films she wanted to do. For her, the contents of the film was much more important than the innumerable awards that it won, because, thanks to this movie she became aware of the type of stories she wanted to tell as an actress. “I am prouder of this movie than of any other thing I have ever done”.
Even so, Hathaway started from scratch. On her fourteenth birthday, a young Anne celebrated such a special date on the stage of the Paper Mill Playhouse theatre in New Jersey, but she was not the protagonist. She wasn’t even a supporting actress. She was singing in the choir, with her back turned to the grand public. She knew the goal she had set for herself and she didn’t mind fighting against obstacles until she could take central stage. In just three years she obtained her first important role. Disney set their eyes on that tall young woman, with long hair and an innocent appearance to turn her into a scruffy adolescent that had to become a princess overnight. With the same speed as her character acquired manners of the nobility, Hathaway took centre stage in the film industry.
Anne Hathaway is one of those actresses that win over men and women alike. Men are fascinated by her indisputable beauty, shown in her easy smile and eyes through which her emotions shine. Ladies praise her simplicity and her rebellious nature in terms of following the strict norms that Hollywood seeks to enforce. “I abandoned my battle for perfection a long time ago. It is an idea I no longer find interesting. Everyone likes to look pretty in photos. I think this is where the pressure starts. Be happy, be yourself. Life is much more than that”. However, Anne shines brilliantly on each red carpet, without requiring great transformations. “I look perfect after an entire team of hairdressers and make-up artists work on me for hours.When do I feel perfect? When I haven’t seen my reflection on a mirror for days and I’m doing things that make me happy”.
“I started in this business to become an actress, to force me out of my 117
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This luck brought her back to comedy. In “The Devil Wears Prada”, she was a young assistant of an insufferable and powerful editor of a fashion magazine, played by her admired Meryl Streep. “As a human being, I’ve done all I wanted to do”. Thanks to this movie, Hathaway recognised having learned to respect the fashion industry and that her personal style was something she still didn’t control.The greatest sacrifice was, however, losing weight by eating fruit, vegetables and fish. “I would cry because I was starving. Obsessing over weight is an old and immense loss of time. Some directors have told me ‘You are the perfect actress for this role, but you have put on some weight’.
The change of register into the drama in “Brokeback Mountain” showed Hathaway’s versatility before the cameras, although she says it was more a matter of fate instead of her personal talent. “I owe part of my career to luck. My mother always says that luck is the combination of preparation and the opportunity. I have had extraordinary opportunities to work with amazing directors before I had enough talent to deserve to work with them. I have learned a lot and I don’t stop signing on new roles. I’m very fortunate and I don’t know who is responsible for this”.
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I LOVE MY WORK AND I FEEL SATISFIED WHEN I KNOW THAT I HAVE GIVEN ALL OF MY ENERGY. BUT IT’S NOT MY TOP PRIORITY. I DON’T BELIEVE THAT ONE CAN PRIORITISE WORK OVER FAMILY, FRIENDS OR A PARTNER”.
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If people can’t understand that I have put on a few pounds, I don’t want to work with them”. Hathaway has become one the references of today’s film industry. Her name is a synonym of success. No matter the topic of the film, Anne puts her five senses into her character. “I love to work and I am satisfied when I know that I have given, literally, all of my energy. But work is not my top priority. I don’t believe that one can prioritise in detriment of family, friends and partner”. Although her first priority is her personal relationships, in terms of movies, she cannot complain about her filmography.The drama “Rachel Getting Married” granted her nominations as Best Actress for the Golden Globe and Academy Awards, for her interpretation of a former model with a long history of family conflicts and visits to rehab clinics, who visits her sister to mend fences. Hathaway’s sublime acting that the reviews applauded, responded to the emotional connection that she felt with the character.“Kym is a girl who fights to survive. Her heart is larger than any other character I have run into and she is incredibly intelligent. She is captivating”. Anne is a woman of extremes and that is obvious. In “Bride Wars” and “Alice in Wonderland” we discovered a more mature actress, who took on a role as a young woman with Parkinson’s disease who strives to live intensely in “Love and other drugs”. Her brilliant career reached an inflexion point when she was chosen as the co-hostess, with James Franco, of the 2011 Academy Awards, one of the most wanted and criticised jobs in the US film industry. “It is very hard to make people laugh, and I’m no expert. I wouldn’t feel comfortable doing it. I am the youngest hostess in history and I am bad at being cynical. Besides, I haven’t earned the right to do this”; she admitted shortly before the ceremony. If there is something that characterised Hathaway is her severe selfcritical sense. “I’m terrible. I interrupt everyone. I’m enthusiastic about truth when I speak, especially when I talk with people it’s fun to talk to. I jump at the end of each sentence and I don’t let anyone finish. I’m also very demanding. This drives my agent completely crazy”. She is best described by one of the best attributes: shrewd. Her iPhone is packed with applications with word games, Scrabble is very important in her life and she reads scripts on her Kindle. She collects memorabilia, like the first edition of the books she has worked on, or the underwear of her characters. This rebellious and original personality that is so different from the rest of the actresses in her generation is one of the cards that have led her to become the new Catwoman in “The Dark Knight Rises”. A role that was hard to interpret due to the amount of fans of the most fierce woman in films. Preparing for the character was more than just make-up and costumes. She took dance lessons and exercised thoroughly five days a week. “Catwoman is a very physical character, she uses seduction as a weapon, which means that she knows and understands her own body very well. I had to learn to move my hips properly”. But Anne has little work to do to achieve perfection in each character. Her face is like an open book and the magic she shows is worthy of being in a movie. 120
Garden at Anne Hathaway’s thatched cottage in Shottery,Warwickshire, England.
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1) Necklace, Cartier Paris, 1951, altered in 1953. Platinum, gold. Round-, baguette- and fancycut diamonds. Eight cushion-shaped and oval faceted rubies. A tiara fitting allows the necklace to be worn as a head ornament. Provenance: Elizabeth Taylor. Marian Gérard, Cartier Collection © Cartier 2) Elizabeth Taylor, Las Vegas, June 1958. With permission of the Trustees of Elizabeth Taylor © Photofest3) Simoneta Gómez-Acebo & Olivier Gay. 4) Charlotte Casiraghi. 5) Elisabeth, Queen of the Belgians © Collection Cyrille Boulay Cartier. © Collection Cyrille Boulay Cartier 6) Scroll tiara, Cartier Paris, 1910.Platinum.One cushion-shaped diamond, round old-cut diamonds. Millegrain setting. Sold to Elisabeth (1876-1965), Queen of the Belgians. Because of her sincere personality, Elizabeth was one of the queens most loved by the Belgians people. She was the niece of the Empress of Austria better known as Sissi, and in 1900 she married Prince Albert of the Kingdom of Belgium. Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier.
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CARTIER
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Bib necklace, Cartier Paris, special order, 1947. Twisted 18-carat and 20-carat gold, platinum. Brilliant- and baguettecut diamonds.One heart-shaped faceted amethyst, twenty-seven emerald-cut amethysts, one oval faceted amethyst. Turquoise cabochons.This necklace was sold to the Duke of Windsor, who supplied all the stones except the turquoises. Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier.
The Art of Cartier collection which will be exhibited at the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum in Madrid from 24th October until 17th February is an extraordinary and exceptional display of the creative capacity of the House to give birth to historic, stunning and unforgettable pieces. The House of Cartier, founded in 1847 by Louis François Cartier, was established based on the principle of the creation of an artistic identity that consisted not only of the dynamism and ability to seek the unusual and exclusive in other cultures, but also the capacity to capture beauty, audacity, curiosity, openness and generosity. Cartier pieces are museum pieces from the moment of their conception until their debut. They are pieces of extraordinary social and historic importance. Ever since the grandson of the founder of Cartier, Louis Cartier, moved the jeweller’s to Number 13, Rue de la Paix, a stone’s throw away from Place Vendôme, the heart of Parisian luxury and elegance, celebrities, high society and aristocracy have been its loyal clients. Art is deployed in each of the jewels, watches and accessories, which are examples not only of an extraordinary talent, but also the unique contemplative capacity of beauty and its needs. The exhibition of this collection (which consists of over 1,450 pieces, of which 420
will be on display) shows the balance between tradition and innovation that the House has been able to maintain over the course of its 165 years (without diminishing or losing either quality in its contemporary pieces), as well as the extraordinary imaginative component that has made the House of Cartier an unrivalled corner of exemplarity, magnificence and sparkle. Hence, the collection in itself is an unparalleled artistic and cultural patrimony.
Each new era brought new themes, illustrated by stunning creations. With a talent that stems from 165 years of expertise, Cartier remains a foremost name in the world of jewellery – today more than ever.
Crocodile necklace,Cartier Paris, special order, 1975.Gold 1,023 brilliant-cut fancy intense yellow diamonds, weighing 60.02 carats in total.Two navette-shaped emerald cabochons (eyes),1, 060 emeralds, weighing 66.86 carats in total.Two ruby cabochons (eyes). Entirely articulated, the two crocodiles can be worn separately as brooches or together as a necklace. When worn around the neck, the feet can be replaced by clawless paws that will not irritate the skin. Made as a special order for María Félix. Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier.
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2 1) Official portrait of Princess Grace of Monaco. Necklace Cartier Paris, 1953. Platinum. Brillant- and baguette-cut diamonds, weighing approximately 64 carats in total. © G Lukomski 2) Alfred Cartier and his 3 sons. From left to right: Pierre, Louis and Jacques (1922).Cartier Archives © Cartier. 3) Chimera bracelet,Cartier Paris, special order, 1929. Pear-shaped diamonds, round old-, single- and French-cut diamonds Sapphire cabochons, buff-top sapphires and emeralds Gadrooned rock crystal (throat) This bracelet was the first of the Chimera bangles to be made entirely of platinum and gemstones.4) Snake necklace,Cartier Paris, special order, 1968.Platinum, white gold and yellow gold 2 473 brilliant- and baguette-cut diamonds, weighing 178.21 carats in total.Two pear-shaped emeralds (eyes).Green, red and black enamel.Made as a special order for María Félix. Mexican diva and archetypal Latin femme fatale, Félix (1914-2002) carried on her acting career until the late 1960s. The actress, well known in Mexico and France for films such as Emilio Fernandez’s Enamorada (1946), Jean Renoir’s French Cancan (1955), and Luis Buñuel’s Fever Rises in El Pao (1959), was a true reptile lover. Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier 5) Santos-Dumont on board airplane No. 15, Saint Cyr, March 1907. Cartier Archives © Cartier 6) Alphonse XIII visiting the Cartier Boutique at 13, Rue de la Paix in Paris. Archives Cartier © Cartier.jpg Right page:Valery Giscard d’Estaing & Simoneta Gómez-Acebo.
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Left: The Duke and Duchess of Windsor, 1958. Born in Baltimore, Wallis Warfield (1896–1986) first married Earl Winfield Spencer, followed by a rich American businessman, Ernest Simpson. Then, in 1934, she met the Prince of Wales.Their affair caused a scandal in Great Britain, and following his accession to the throne in 1936 and Wallis’s second divorce, Edward VIII was forced to abdicate in December in order to marry her. In March 1937 the new king, George VI, named his brother Duke of Windsor. The couple were married in France in June, and moved to Paris where they lived for the rest of their lives. From the late 1930s onward the Duchess was a great fan of Cartier. Many of her jewels were made in collaboration with Jeanne Toussaint. © Philippe Halsman / Magnum Photos. Right: Stomacher brooch,Cartier Paris, special order, 1907. One pear-shaped sapphire Seven cushion-shaped sapphires. Round old- and rose-cut diamonds. The total weight of the sapphires is approximately 51 carats.This beautiful brooch is a splendid example of Cartier’s Garland style. It is thoroughly exceptional for a piece of jewellery of this size to have remained completely intact for nearly one hundred years, since transformations and re-settings were the inevitable fate of tiaras and corsage ornaments once they went out of fashion. Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier.
Among the pieces on display are some of the most famous and sparkling jewels that belonged and belong to famous celebrities and royalty. The collection displays some pieces for the first time, such as the ruby and diamond necklace that film producer, Mike Todd, gave to Elizabeth Taylor.The Garland style tiara that King Alfonso XIII gave to Queen Victoria Eugenia, which is worn today by Queen Sofia on special occasions, is also on display. Some pieces belonging to British royalty are also on display, such as: the Flamingo brooch that the Duke of Windsor gave to the Duchess, as well as the Panther brooch, sold to the Duchess of Windsor. The Palace of Monaco has agreed to exhibit several of its Cartier creations: Princess Grace’s jewels in her official portrait, for example. Some of its most exclusive and special clients include Princess Mathilde, daughter of Emperor Napoleon III, Queen Alexandra of England, the Russian Princess Olga Paley, Queen Elisabeth of Belgium and King George IV.
The collection reflects the art and ability to persist of a house that is still an indispensable reference in the world of jewellery, watch-making and precious objects.
Tutti Frutti necklace, Cartier Paris, special order, 1936, altered in 1963. Platinum, white gold. Marquise, baguette and round old-cut diamonds.Thirteen briolette-cut sapphires weighing 146.9 carat in total, two leaf-shaped carved sapphires, sapphire beads, one sapphire cabochon Square carved emeralds, fluted and smooth emerald beads, emerald cabochons. Leaf-shaped carved rubies, smooth and engraved ruby beads, ruby cabochons. Each emerald, ruby and sapphire bead is studded with a colletset diamond. Originally made in the Indian style, with black cord fastening round the back, this necklace was remounted upon the request of the client. Made to special order for Mrs. Daisy Fellowes. Daughter of the Duc Decazes and Isabelle Singer, Daisy Fellowes was often named “the world’s most elegant woman” by magazines of the 1920s and ’30s. This Parisian socialite boasted two qualities without which elegance tends to be overlooked: taste and audacity. These qualities earned her a firm reputation as a leader of fashion, especially when she became Paris correspondent, from 1933 to 1935, for the influential Harper’s Bazaar. Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection © Cartier.
jewellery
Panther clip brooch, Cartier Paris, 1949.Platinum, white gold. Single-cut diamonds.Two pear-shaped yellow diamonds (eyes). One 152.35-carat Kashmir sapphire cabochon. Sapphire cabochons (spots). This panther is the second three-dimensional example that Cartier made for the Duchess of Windsor (the first one surmounted an emerald cabochon).Sold to the Duchess of Windsor. Nick Welsh, Cartier Collection Š Cartier.
la zagaleta lifestyle magazine
LA ZAGALETA A
W O R L D
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D I F F E R E N C E
Established in 1991, it is located at the heart of one of the most attractive areas of the Costa del Sol, only on a short distance from the famous Puerto Banús, and 45 km from Málaga airport, lies possibly the most beautiful site in Europe “La Zagaleta Golf & Country Club”. This is a place where one can truly discover a naturally privileged zone embraced by the magic of the Mediterranean and an incomparable beauty where a selected few find relaxation and peace. La Zagaleta offers to the members two magnificent 18 holes golf courses, riding club, tennis courts, a prize-winning nature landscaping complemented by Luxury Taylor Made Services. The urbanization has been awarded with the Mercedes Benz & International Property Awards and Safe Home Award, CNBC European Property Award for Best Development Spain (2008), Best
Golf Development Spain (2008), and recently Overseas Living Award in Spain 2010. This spectacular villa is for sale under the reference:
SIGNATURE VILLA REF. 1019 Plot: 6.364 m2 Details: The house is built on a panoramic plot of 6.364 m2 and has a superb south west orientation with stuning views towards the Mediterranean sea and the golf course. This villa counts with 6 bedrooms ensuite, staff apartment, a spectacular outdoor pool, a wine cellar and an unfinished area for multiple use such as gymnasium, cinema, sauna and turkish bath.
Ctra. de Ronda, Km. 38,5. Benahavís (Málaga) Tel.: +34 952 855 450 - Weekend Mobile: +34 687 443 045 - Fax: +34 952 855 313 - E-Mail: sales@lazagaleta.com - www.lazagaleta.com View by appointment only - Contact: Maika Díaz Rivero, Sales Director