Coastal Living - November 2016

CELEBRATE ISLAND STYLE WITH OUR FESTIVE TWISTS ON TRADITION

KAILUA, HAWAII

18

SUNNY SPA VACATIONS THAT WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE

+

THE COAST’S HAPPIEST HOMES FROM SEA ISLAND TO CARMEL

NOVEMBER 2016

The road less traveled was made for a car less ordinary.

THAT’S CONTINE NTAL

LincolnContinental.com/Roadtrip

CONTENTS Coastal Living Nvembr 2016 Currents

51

11 What’s On Our Radar Ten ways to pamper guests, four table settings, and three getaways, plus wine and cheese pairings

Havens 21 Color Theory Richly versatile olive 24 Life on the Coast Designer Noelle Micek’s cozy Carmel bungalow

JESSICA SAMPLE; PROP STYLING BY LINDSEY ELLIS BEATTY AND KELLEY LILIEN; FLORAL DESIGN BY MELEANA ESTES

30 Collecting Midcenturychic brass pineapples 34 View with a Room A breakfast nook inspired by resplendent Portofino

Navigator 37 Weekend Getaway A Chesapeake escape to charmingly historic Cape Charles, Virginia 41 The Guide Seaside spa vacations designed to reboot your life 46 Double Take Humboldt vs. San Luis Obispo 48 Postcard Greetings from Carlsbad, California

Bounty 89 Gather A brilliant breakfast menu made with Thanksgiving leftovers 94 Hooked Comfort food and a beloved cast iron pan

51

62

68

76

Thanksgiving Luau!

Hawaii-based style guru Kelley Lilien does her turkeyand-trimmings feast in the islands—bring on the Pineapple Rickeys, and get in the limbo line!

Georgia Isle Revival Amid Sea Island’s classic Southern style, a 1970s house is reinvented with a playful sense of color and design that fits right in.

Black Beauty They are some of the rarest—and most beautiful—pearls in the world. Travel to Tahiti to discover the surprising secrets behind their intoxicating allure.

Beachfront Brilliant!

How a front-row seat to Manhattan Beach’s parade of surf and sand inspired a sunny vision for an active family’s home

O N T H E COV E R: P H OTO GRAP H BY JESS IC A SA MPLE

IN EVERY ISSUE Cocktail of the Month 6 Editor’s Letter 8 Beach Dogs 96 Sources 98 Coastal View 100

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

5

PRESIDENT & CEO

Rich Battista Alan Murray

CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Nathan Lump Clare McHugh

EDITORIAL OPERATIONS/FINANCE DIRECTOR

E DITOR Steele Thomas Marcoux Tempy Segrest EXECUTIVE EDITOR Jennifer Brunnemer Slaton DEPUTY EDITOR Katie Finley ASSISTANT MANAGING EDITOR Mamie Walling

DESIGN DIRECTOR

ART & PHOTOGRAPHY

Emily Johnson Julia Ludlam

SENIOR DESIGNER DESIGNER

SENIOR ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR

Lindsey Stone

DIGITAL & P RO D U C TIO N

Susan Hall Mahon DIGITAL EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Chandler Stroman ASSOCIATE PRODUCTION MANAGER Rachel Ellis EDITORIAL FELLOW Lauren Phillips DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

TI M E I N C .

Jen Wong Jeff Bairstow, Leslie Dukker Doty, Mark Ford, Greg Giangrande, Lauren Ezrol Klein, Steve Marcopoto, Erik Moreno VP, HUMAN RESOURCES Stacie Sullivan ASSOCIATE GENERAL COUNSEL Maya Menendez COO

EVP S

TI M E I N C . SALES & MARKETING PRESIDENT & CEO Mark Ellis PRESIDENT, FINANCIAL SERVICES & TECHNOLOGY/TELECOMMUNICATIONS Brendan Ripp

Greg Schumann Karen Kovacs PRESIDENT, BEAUTY Lauren Newman PRESIDENT, DIGITAL SALES Brad Elders SVP/CHIEF BUSINESS OFFICER Andy Blau SVP, AUTOMOTIVE Rick Simmons SVP, FASHION/STYLE, SHELTER & MULTICULTURAL Ron King SVP, ADVERTISING STRATEGY & MARKETING Christine Wu VP, REVENUE STRATEGY & OPERATIONS Kavata Mbondo VP S /GROUP SALES DIRECTORS Bill Keating, Dan Realson, Nick Van Sicklen BRAND SALES DIRECTORS Diane DePaul, Amy Olmsted PRESIDENT, RETAIL & PHARMACEUTICAL

PRESIDENT, FOOD & BEVERAGE

CLI E NT SO LUTIO N S

Jennifer Staiman Ashley Groves CREATIVE DIRECTOR Chris Hoke ASSOCIATE DESIGN DIRECTOR Kristen E. Bailey ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DIRECTOR Caitlin Garofalo ASSOCIATE HOMES DIRECTOR Nicole Hendrick SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Heather Bowden MARKETING MANAGERS Emily Boehling, Kayla Gambino MARKETING MANAGER, HOMES Amy Leachman ASSOCIATE MARKETING MANAGER Chelsea Spear VP

EXECUTIVE MARKETING DIRECTOR

BRAND MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS

Susan Parkes Vildia Samaniego Claire Rock DIRECTOR, PUBLIC RELATIONS Elizabeth Marsh

SVP, BRAND MARKETING AND COMMUNICATIONS VP, BRAND MARKETING

DIRECTOR, BRAND MARKETING

INTEGRATED MARKETING MANAGER, BRAND MARKETING

Sarah Clark ADVE RTISI N G SALE S

404/888-1940 Beth Cairns INTEGRATED ACCOUNT MANAGERS Holly Belk, Jamie Hawk REGIONAL BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR Bill Syrett AD DIRECTOR, STATE MAGAZINES Hoke Carter CHICAGO 312/832-0854 AD DIRECTORS Chogie Fields, Kimberly Krubeck DALLAS 214/523-4002 INTEGRATED ACCOUNT MANAGER Jenny Hedges HAWAII 808/587-8300 INTEGRATED ACCOUNT MANAGER Robert Wiegand LOS ANGELES 310/268-7132 INTEGRATED ACCOUNT MANAGER Krissy Kobata NEW YORK 212/522-4187 INTEGRATED ACCOUNT MANAGER Allie Haas WEST COAST 510/858-3166 TRAVEL DIRECTOR Melinda Sheehan ATLANTA

BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR

SALE S S U P P O R T

Tess Cochrane, Corinne Larsen, Julie Mayo, Julie Segovia COASTAL DIRECT RESPONSE

212/779-7172, ext. 224; Nancy Forman COASTAL MARKET/CLASSIFIED

212/779-7172; Media People DIGITAL SVP

Kevin Heery Edward Felsenthal Pamela Russo

DIRECTOR

GENERAL MANAGER

CONSUMER MARKETING DIRECTOR

Jen Cha

Rachel Freed Melissa Kross Aggie Cronin, Karen Newlands MARKETING MANAGERS Zak Carrazzone, Melanie Piselli ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER Chris Lynes

6

STRATEGIC MARKETING MANAGER

SENIOR MARKETING MANAGERS

REVENUE & INNOVATION

Pour cider mixture through a fine wiremesh strainer into an ice-filled cocktail shaker; discard solids. Gently pour 4 oz. spicy ginger beer into each of 2 chilled, ice-filled copper mugs. Add 4 oz. (½ cup) gin (such as Beefeater) and ⅓ oz. (2 tsp.) apple cider vinegar to cider mixture in cocktail shaker; shake vigorously until thoroughly chilled, about 15 seconds. Strain evenly into copper mugs; garnish each with thin slices of Honeycrisp apple and a cinnamon stick. Serves 2.

Matt Bean VP, CREATIVE DIRECTOR Cara Deoul Perl VP, MARKETING AD SOLUTIONS Steve Cambron VP, FINANCE Lori Dente VP, RESEARCH & INSIGHTS Caryn Klein VP, DIGITAL AD OPERATIONS Nancy Mynio EXECUTIVE OFFICE MANAGER Lori Kaplan

NAME THIS DRINK! *See page 98 for details.

SVP, EDITORIAL INNOVATION

FI NAN CE

Alison Fried Don Lichter

SVP VP

Sherry Wolfe Dan Opperthauser, Brett Richards ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR Brad Scharff SENIOR MANAGER Greg Brown PRODUCTION FINANCE MANAGER Linda Luke SENIOR ANALYST Cynthia Essary ANALYST Hollie Hawkins

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR DIRECTORS

PRODUCTION

Casey Cunniffe Anthony White MAKEUP & POSITIONING Susan Windrum AD PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Imran Hussain

GROUP PRODUCTION DIRECTOR PRODUCTION MANAGER

TECHNOLOGY & PRODUCT ENGINEERING

Kurt Rao Alam Ali, Linda Apsley, Adam Days, Robert Duffy, Amanda Hanes, Hugues Hervouet, Simon Loxham, Leon Misiukiewicz, Keith O’Sullivan, Ben Ramadan, Raji Ramamoorthy, Brian Reiss, Paul Rivenburg, Ashis Roy, Jason Stein SVP VP S

For change of address, payment, and other subscription questions, call 888/252-3529 or visit coastalliving.com/ customerservice. REPRINTS For logo licensing, permissions, and reprints, call The YGS Group at 800/501-9571, ext. 2332, or e-mail coastalliving@theygsgroup.com. EDITORIAL OFFICE If you have questions or comments, e-mail letters@coastalliving.com or write to 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Birmingham, AL 35209.

COASTAL LIVING November 2016

Combine 8 oz. (1 cup) Honeycrisp apple cider, 6 whole allspice, 2 (2-inch) cinnamon sticks, and 1 star anise pod in a small saucepan; bring to a simmer over medium. Simmer until reduced to ½ cup, 7 to 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Transfer to a glass bowl or jar with a lid, and cool completely. Cover and chill 24 hours.

ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR, STRATEGIC PLANNING

SUBSCRIBERS If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within two years. MAILING LIST We make a portion of our mailing list available to reputable firms. If you would prefer that we not include your name, please call or write us. CUSTOMER SERVICE

P R I NTE D I N TH E U SA

COCKTAIL OF THE MONTH

SEPTEMBER 2016

WINNER Laura Long, Parkville, MD

Bitters Sweet Symphony Long rifed on the tart cherry and turbinado sugar in our new oldfashioned: “The mixture of ingredients creates delightful music on the palate!”

RECIPE BY ADAM HICKMAN; PHOTOGRAPH BY STEPHEN DEVRIES; PROP STYLING BY MISSIE NEVILLE CRAWFORD; FOOD STYLING BY ERIN MERHAR

EDITORIAL

Lindsey Ellis Beatty HOMES EDITOR Ellen McGauley TRAVEL EDITOR Tracey Minkin FOOD & WINE EDITOR Chris Hughes ASSOCIATE LIFESTYLE & BEAUTY EDITOR Rachael Burrow ASSOCIATE FEATURES EDITOR Madeleine Frank EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Betsy Cribb CONTRIBUTING SEAFOOD EDITOR Barton Seaver STYLE DIRECTOR

YOU DESERVE

BETTER Not just a better bathroom, but also a better home loan experience. Rocket Mortgage’s completely online process gives you a custom mortgage solution, so you can refinance and start saving money to finally update that yuck-colored bathroom.

QuickenLoans.com Quicken Loans; NMLS#3030; www.NMLSConsumerAccess.org . Equal Housing Lender. Licensed in 50 states. AR, TX: 1050 Woodward Ave., Detroit, MI 48226-1906, (888) 474-0404; AZ: 16425 North Pima, Ste. 200, Scottsdale, AZ 85260, Mortgage Banker License #BK-0902939; CA: Licensed by Dept. of Business Oversight, under the CA Residential Mortgage Lending Act; CO: Regulated by the Division of Real Estate; GA: Residential Mortgage Licensee #11704; IL: Residential Mortgage Licensee #4127 – Dept. of Financial and Professional Regulation; KS: SL-0000693; ME: Supervised Lender License; MN: Not an ofer for a rate lock agreement; MS: Licensed by the MS Dept. of Banking and Consumer Finance; NH: Licensed by the NH Banking Dept., #6743MB; NV: License #626; NJ: Licensed Mortgage Banker – NJ Dept. of Banking, 1st (and/or 2nd) mortgages only; NY: Licensed Mortgage Banker – NYS Banking Dept.; OH: MB 850076; OR: License #ML-1387; PA: Licensed as a 1st Mortgage Banker by the Dept. of Banking and licensed pursuant to the PA Secondary Mortgage Loan Act; RI: Licensed Lender; WA: Consumer Loan Company License CL-3030. Quicken Loans NMLS #3030. Rates subject to change. Restrictions may apply. ©2000–2016 Quicken Loans Inc., All rights reserved. Lending services provided by Quicken Loans Inc., a subsidiary of Rock Holdings Inc. “Quicken Loans” is a registered service mark of Intuit Inc., used under license.

( EDITOR’S LETTER )

STEELE THOMAS MARCOUX, EDITOR steele@coastalliving.com; @steelemarcoux

ENTERTAINING MADE EASY! Streamline your holiday planning with Cozi, a free mobile app from Time Inc. Available on iTunes and Google Play, Cozi lets you create and share calendars, save favorite recipes, and build grocery lists.

This month, you’ll find our Tropical Thanksgiving recipes (p. 60) preloaded into the app’s recipe box. Happy hosting!

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

VIEW FINDER CL Travel Editor Tracey Minkin shares her top picks for a November escape

“In Hawaii, hotel deals are easy to come by (with the exception of Thanksgiving), especially on Maui, Oahu, and the Big Island.”

“The humpback whale–watching season kicks of in Puerto Vallarta. Get there before peakseason rates start in December.”

“Enjoy St. Lucia’s hot springs, rain forests, Piton mountains, and wonderful food and culture, without the winter crowds.”

To see the best islands for every month of the year, visit coastal living.com/islandbymonth

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: MARLA CARTER, ADAM HESTER/GETTY IMAGES, DAN GOLDBERGER/GETTY IMAGES, ALAN COPSON/GETTY IMAGES

in perspective to find the magic hiding in plain sight. I was reminded of this last November when I got home from a vacation with my husband. Truth be told, there’s a lot I grumble about this time of year: the return of daylight saving time (hello, 4:30 p.m. sunsets); the dull, gray skies (how quickly early fall’s clear, brilliant blue fades away); the lull between back-to-school excitement and holiday joy. So, in part to fend of my pre-winter blues, Michel and I packed our bags and headed south to Bocas del Toro, Panama, a tiny archipelago near the Costa Rica border. (You can read about our adventure at coastalliving.com).

After a week of swimming, surfing, eating, exploring, and beaching in the tropical sun, we felt rejuvenated, reconnected, and … nowhere near ready to come home, where we knew winter and our everyday routines awaited. But after being home for a day or two, a funny thing happened: I noticed that the

SOMETIMES IT TAKES A CHANGE

season’s slower days were peaceful, not melancholy, and that the gray skies were cozy and romantic, not somber and bleak. Maybe the five days spent closely observing the Panamanian jungle, teeming with life, had heighted my awareness for the world around me. (Or, more likely, the five nights of consistent sleep had made everything look better.) But it seemed the value of the trip was not just in the adventure and relaxation we enjoyed while we were there, but also in the renewed appreciation for our surroundings that we felt upon our return.

At Coastal Living, we believe that any trip, especially to the coast, has the power to change your life—whether it facilitates exploration of a new place, cultivates a new hobby, or renews a commitment to healthy living (like the spa vacations on p. 41). But the most fundamentally life-changing aspect of a vacation is its ability to foster a deep connection to the present. Only when we are truly present can we recognize and appreciate all of nature’s gifts, from the momentous (like an oyster’s ability to produce a rare black pearl, captured by Jad Davenport on p. 68) to the mundane (such as the changing of the tides described by Amy Shearn on p. 100).

Whether you’re traveling to the coast this Thanksgiving or simply escaping into the pages of this issue, here’s to giving thanks for the beauty in each and every day—including, and perhaps especially, the gray ones.

Steep a cup of Yogi tea and you have something more than delicious. Every intriguing blend of herbs and botanicals is on a mission, supporting energy, stamina, clarity, immunity, tranquility, cleansing or unwinding.

®,©2015-2016 East West Tea Company, LLC

Every cup is a gift to mind, body and spirit.

®

© 2016 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Westin and its logo are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its afiliates.

You Don’t Need More Vacation Days.

You Need Better Ones.

It’s time for a better break. At Westin Hotels & Resorts, every element of your stay has been designed to enhance your well-being. So you can get the most out of your vacation.

Book a better break at westin.com/resorts

MAU I

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PRINCEVILLE

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HILTON HEAD

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BEAR MOUNTAIN

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MISSION HILLS

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CANCUN

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MANY MORE

CURRENTS What’s On Or Radr This Mnth COOL CENTERPIECES

SUBLIME SETTINGS

CHRISTOPHER SHANE; FLORIST: BARRY WEST/BLOSSOMS EVENTS

Party planning pro Calder Clark dreams up four fresh centerpieces for tables designed for easy, impressive entertaining

Shot at Boone Hall Plantation in Mount Pleasant, South Carolina. Similar chairs are available through Wayfair.

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

11

CURRENTS

ROMANTIC

COOL CENTERPIECES

William Yeoward Crystal Fanny Goblet in Amethyst, $99; william yeowardcrystal .com

Kerry Cassill Two-Tone Napkin in Violet/Sea Blue, $13; kerrycassill .com

Juliska Gray Wicker Charger/Place Mat, $39; blisshomeand design.com Bordallo Pinheiro Cabbage 7.48" Plate, $68 for a set of four; wayfair.com/coastal cabbageplate

Astier de Villatte Colbert Large Soup Tureen, $475; suefisherking.com

MOD

One Kings Lane Two-Tone Ceramic Napkin Rings in Green, $12 for a set of four; onekingslane.com

Suite One Studio Oval Platter in White with Mint Watercolor, $80; suiteonestudio.com

Nicholas Newcomb Hudson Valley DT Coup Plate (Petals) in Black, from $48; nicholasnewcomb.com

Yummi Handcrafte d Taper Candles in Aqua Green, Co ral, and Turquoise, $15 (10") and $17 (12") each; yummicandles.co m Kim Seybert Faceted Flatware, $105 for a set of four five-piece settings; kimseybert.com

LIGHT PARADE Hen House Linens Persimmon Peach Solid Napkin with White Trim, $38 for a set of four; henhouselinens.com

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

Collect mismatched brass candlesticks from flea markets, spray paint in vivid shades of aqua, teal, and coral, and top with coordinating tapers.

PREPPY ARRANGEMENT: CHRISTOPHER SHANE/PROP STYLING BY CALDER CLARK; CANDLESTICKS, TUREEN, CABBAGE PLATE, FLATWARE, AND LINENS: STEPHEN DEVRIES; ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS

Pair local greenery with an array of showy blooms like shogun roses and blushing bride in a tureen for a fanciful centerpiece with a serious wild side.

VIETRI Settimocielo Stainless Steel Flatware, $98 for a five-piece setting; vietri.com

SFERRA Festival Table Runner in Lilac, $60 (15" by 90"); sferra.com

Canvas Home Fat Glass in Aqua, $11.50; canvas homestore.com

NATIVE BEAUTY

ELEGANT

L’OBJET Swan Salt Cellar in White, $135; l-objet.com

Cambridge Silversmiths Rani Flatware, $175 for four fivepiece settings; bloomingdales.com

Kim Seybert Vague Goblet in White, $224 for a set of four; kimseybert.com

llmache Imports To Woodland 7; $4 m fro r, Lidded Ja dedjar /coastallid wayfair.com Jars, ds Ginger HomeGoo .com ds oo eg m from $10; ho ns tio ca for store lo

Mottahedeh Large Carp Platter, $520; mottahedeh.com

Richard Ginori 1735 Oro di Doccia Turquoise Salad/ Dessert Plate, $80, Bromberg’s; 205/871-3276

PRETTY IN PINK

ARRANGEMENTS, FLATWARE, COLORED GOBLET, AND NAPKIN RINGS: STEPHEN DEVRIES; STYLING BY LINDSEY ELLIS BEATTY AND RACHAEL BURROW; ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS

Gather an assortment of blue-andwhite ginger jars in a variety of shapes and sizes, and fill with pink mums, stock, and Gerbera daisies.

Henry Handwork Orchid Gala Napkin, $20; henryhandwork.com

NATURAL Juliska Macrame Natural Place Mat, $20; juliska.com Cost Plus World Market Geometric Wood Napkin Rings, $12 for a set of four; worldmarket.com Leaf & Petal White Wavy Planter, from $79; 205/871-3832 for similar styles

Abigails Green and White Splash Dinner Plate, $187 for a set of four; abigails.net

Villeroy & Boch Boston Colored Goblet in Green, $32; villeroy-boch .com

Bonnie and Neil Abstract Splash Green Pink Plate, from $35; bonnieandneil .com.au

SWELL SUCCULENTS Choose a decorative planter, like this footed bowl, and fill with assorted echeveria (we used sedum, aeonium, and crassula, among others), which will stay green long past holidays’ end.

Alain Saint Joanis Geneve Olivewood Flatware, $300 for a five-piece setting; gracious style.com

DO IT YOURSELF! Learn how to re-create the romantic autumnal arrangement for your own table at coastalliving.com/calderclark

CURRENTS HOT COMBOS

YOUR WINE AND CHEESE CHEAT SHEET This season, elevate your charcuterie board with these top-notch coastal cheeses paired with somm-approved wines

E eese BLU ad Ch ion, CA L A t e GIN st Sta ORI s FarmReyes eye int nt R Po 3 Poi pany, Com

1

JUSTIN VANN

INO RACCH DO ST ENZA N E C S CRE DI CRESC reamery, tt C ganse , RI Narra Providence

NIEPOORT’S 2007 LBV ($28) “The greatest pairing in the world with blue cheeses is fortified red wine. And Niepoort delivers the same complexity as a vintage port for a fraction of the price.”

DANA FRANK

Pair with 3

Dame and Bow & Arrow, Portland, OR

DOMAINE VALETTE’S MÂCON-VILLAGES 2012 ($20) “With sheep’s milk cheeses, I really like full-bodied French Chardonnay, and Domaine Valette’s are richer and more intense than the status quo from this appellation.”

WEISER-KÜNSTLER TRABENER GAISPFAD KABINETT TROCKEN 2015 ($25) “Riesling, with its tart lemon pith and mineral notes, is fantastic with soft, ripe cheeses.”

Pair with 1

Pair with 2

s, C A

IRL M G Tom O T T O e, FAT B Chees t r a e Bleating H

ale

NC E OVIDE DIVINE PRED GOUDA ry SEMI-AG t Creame et Narragans ence, RI Provid

MT. T Cow AM TR g I Pet irl Cre PLE CR alu am EA ma ery M , CA ,

6

UP I M A P N S MO L K S M E LE E, A Cen Rivers OKED AF– tral Ed C Coa ge st

, OOD R W PED LDE RAP E W VR , HÈ hèvre e, OR C ang R

SAN FEREOLO ‘COSTE DI RIAVOLO’ ($24) “A firm Gouda can stand up to an assertive white wine like this blend made from Riesling and Gewürztraminer.

It’s both floral and fruity, with a savory earthiness.”

Pair with 4

4

2

5

TAYLOR PARSONS Republique, Los Angeles, CA

14

COASTAL LIVING November 2016

DAMIEN COQUELET CHIROUBLES 2014 ($20) “Many bloomy-rind cheeses move into more woodsy terrain, perfect flavors for Gamays— light and tangy reds from the Beaujolais region.”

PIETRACUPA GRECO DI TUFO ($26) “The best Greco di Tufo is grown in volcanic soils, which lends the wine a smoky quality—something you need to echo the smoky flavor in the cheese.”

Pair with 5

Pair with 6

STEPHEN DEVRIES; PROP STYLING BY MISSIE NEVILLE CRAWFORD; FOOD STYLING BY ERIN MERHAR; ILLUSTRATIONS BY JULIA LUDLAM

Public Services, Houston, TX

When your favorite room in the house

IS NOT ACTUALLY IN THE HOUSE. This moment is exactly why we built this house. And why we insisted that every detail add to the spectacular view.

Framed in beauty, a home with the authentic character of James Hardie® siding and trim, with rich ColorPlus® Technology inishes, sets the stage for those times when time stands still. Their natural charm will last nearly as long as the memories you make here.

We build character. jameshardie.com

Photos © 2016 Scripps Networks, LLC. Used with Permission; All Rights Reserved. © 2016 James Hardie Building Products Inc. Except as noted, ® and TM denotes trademarks or registered trademarks of James Hardie Technology Limited. All Rights Reserved. AD1634 8/16

CURRENTS

COOL ESCAPES

VACATIONS THAT FEEL LIKE HOME (for the holidays) Kiawah Island SOUTH CAROLINA Mild temperatures, lush nature preserves, and 10 miles of barrier island beaches make for a vacation full of outdoor play, along with a bursting calendar of holiday events.

HOME AWAY FROM HOME The resort’s 15 Premier Homes come with a concierge who will customize your arrival and coordinate all your resort activities. A newspaper delivered every morning and four bikes ready to roll are

Seabrook WASHINGTON Overlooking pristine beaches and the wild Pacific Ocean, bordering on a national park, and anchored by a sweet town center, Seabrook is like its own Pacific Northwest holiday pop-up card.

HOME AWAY FROM HOME

Cottages at Ocean House WATCH HILL, RHODE ISLAND This of-the-beaten-path enclave confers New England magic all season long. And the opulent Ocean House serves as a holiday True North, with its massive stone fireplace and cozy seating.

HOME AWAY FROM HOME Two of the elegantly welcoming Cottages at Ocean House are open year-round. The twobedroom Old Schoolhouse is steps from a private beach.

A short drive from Ocean House, the four-bedroom (plus bunk

16

COASTAL LIVING November 2016

room!) Sunset Cove (above) has bay and river views, and a heated saltwater pool. Rates start at $1,200 per night, with a four-night minimum.

HOLIDAY TOUCHES The days before Christmas include a gift-wrapping workshop, an eggnog-making class, a children’s tea with Paddington Bear, and caroling at Watch Hill’s historic chapel.

GET HERE Ocean House is 42 miles from Providence’s T.F. Green Airport. To book cottages, call 855/678-0364; for more info, visit oceanhouseri.com.

Seabrook ofers 170 beach cottages and homes, each sleeping up to 20 people, in a variety of architectural styles.

Rates start at $119, with a threenight minimum on holidays.

at-home amenities. Rates start at $3,300 per week.

HOLIDAY TOUCHES From popping up (and decorating, if you like) a holiday tree to festooning your mantels, hanging stockings, and helping wrap the kids’ gifts for Mom and Dad, your concierge can deck your halls on every level.

GET HERE Kiawah is 35 miles from Charleston International Airport. To book, call 800/654-2924 or visit kiawahresort.com.

HOLIDAY TOUCHES Seabrook’s Cottage Rental team will plan ahead with you to provide lights and decorations (for a small fee) to make your porch as festive as you desire. Further, Mill 109 Restaurant will prepare your holiday feast for you to cook it in your home, or will cook it all for you on Thanksgiving morning for your pick-up.

GET HERE Seabrook is 126 miles from Sea-Tac International Airport.

To book, call 877/779-9990 or visit seabrookwa.com.

FROM TOP: COURTESY OF KIAWAH GOLF RESORT, COURTESY OF OCEAN HOUSE RESORT AND SPA/CHIP RIEGEL, COURTESY OF SEABROOK/STEPHEN MASON

Three destinations for gathering your loved ones and leaving the cooking, cleaning, and stress behind

CURRENTS

An embroidered border gives this classic white hand towel tailored panache.

John Robshaw Textiles Linah Embroidered Hand Towel in Coral, $25; johnrobshaw.com

Put this in your scent file: a fragrant mix of citrus and fresh greenery.

Aspen Bay Candles 17 oz. Blood Orange & Vine Tinted Glass Jar, $33; aspenbaycandles.com

This golden oyster dish is a decadent drop zone for jewelry.

Adarna Gallery Mother of Pearl Extra Large Rare Philippines Gold Lip Oyster Shell, $80; adarnagallery.com

Magic potion: here’s a super chic antidote for straight-of-the-beach skin.

AERIN Waterlily Sun Body Cream, $58; aerin.com

Scenario Home Notched Lacquer Serving Tray in Soft Turquoise, $110; scenariohome.com

Stock these vintage-inspired toothbrushes as stylish stand-ins for toiletries left behind by guests.

C.O. Bigelow Natural Bristle Toothbrush, $9; bigelowchemists.com

Natural and biodegradable, sea sponges are super exfoliators for a beach house bath.

Pottery Barn Sea Sponges, $19 for a set of three; potterybarn.com

Bring spa days in-house with this cool cotton robe.

John Robshaw Textiles Vohu Robe, $125; johnrobshaw.com

Include plenty of boutique provisions, like this holistic shampoo/conditioner duo that smells like the sea.

SACHAJUAN Ocean Mist Volume Shampoo and Conditioner, $32 each; davidpirrotta.com

18

COASTAL LIVING November 2016

Allow guests to relax after a day on the beach with a bath soak containing vitamin E and chamomile.

RICA Bath & Body Soaking Stones in Gardenia Valencia, $36; ricabody.com

BRING THE SPA HOME Find more beautiful bath inspiration at coastalliving.com/beachybaths

TOWEL, CANDLE, OYSTER DISH, TOOTHBRUSH, SPONGE, AND ROBE: STEPHEN DEVRIES; ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS

This minty lacquered tray ensures toiletries stay nice and tidy.

Reinvent Your Retreat Serene living begins anew with fresh finds for every space, style, and budget. Hayneedle.com offers exclusive designer-inspired furniture and décor at a fraction of the cost, plus everything you need to update your home – indoors and out.

The largest selection for everything outdoor

1300+ dining table sets

UP TO 60% OFF + FREE SHIPPING on orders over $49. Shop hayneedle.com or call 888.806.9084.

On-trend styles starting under $20

HAVENS Fresh, New Ideas fr Coastal Hmes

COLOR THEORY

DASH OF OLIVE Meet our new favorite neutral: This crisp, marshy shade has natural beauty in spades

BY RAC H A E L B URROW P H OTO G RA P H BY STE P H EN D EVRIES

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

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HAVENS

( COLOR THEORY )

Buy It 1 Designers Guild Cosia Fabric in Leaf, available to the trade; designers guild.com 2 Osborne & Little Wimborne Fabric in 05, available to the trade; osborneandlittle.com

PAIR IT

3 ANN SACKS Nottingham Hexagon 8" by 8" Ceramic Tiles in Verdigris Copper, $42.80 per square foot; ann sacks.com for showrooms 4 Cowtan & Tout + Manuel Canovas Emma Fabric in Anis, available to the trade; cowtan.com

Blush pink teases out olive’s youthful side. In this bright, buoyant dining room, L.A. designer Jackie Terrell uses the soft wall shade (and a killer cobalt blue) to turn the normally demure green into a lighthearted knockout.

5 Brian Carter for studio B

by Jim Thompson A New Leaf Fabric in Moss Garden, available to the trade; 800/262-0336 6 Osborne & Little Lulworth Fabric in 06, available to the trade; osborneandlittle.com 7 Valspar Paint in La Fonda Olive, from $36 per gallon; valsparpaint.com for retailers 8 Raoul Textiles Oahu Fabric in Guava, available to the trade; raoultextiles.com

10 William Yeoward for Designers Guild Boyton Wallpaper in Moss, available to the trade; designers guild.com

1

CALKE GREEN

TROPICAL FOLIAGE

FARROW & BALL

VALSPAR

2

PEAS IN A POD DUNN-EDWARDS

FOREST HILLS GREEN BENJAMIN MOORE

POP IT 3

10 4

9 5

8

7 6 New Spec Olive Side Chair, $280 for a set of two; wayfair.com/coastalolivechair

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

Madeline Weinrib Celery Stripe Ikat Pillow, $525 (18" by 18"); madelineweinrib.com

Williams-Sonoma Olive Topiary, $20 (small); williams-sonoma.com

DINING ROOM: ROGER DAVIES; CHAIR, PILLOW, AND TOPIARY: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS

Paint It

9 Kenneth James for Brewster Home Fashions Wakumi Olive Grasscloth Wallpaper, $350 per roll; brewsterwallcovering.com

LIFE IS FULL OF

Beautiful Moments LET THEM IN

Coastal homes are crafted for beauty, but demand an unmistakable level of strength.

Marvin windows and doors strengthen every beautiful home without sacriicing a single detail.

No matter what nature brings, our products endure, framing the moments you hold dear.

Envision your Marvin home at marvinwindows.com

Homeowner and designer Noelle Micek on the beach in Carmel with husband John, daughter Charlotte (5), and son Jack (3)

In the living room, a stone hearth and board-and-batten walls (painted Manchester Tan by Benjamin Moore) are original to the circa 1914 house. The slipcovered armchairs are by Lee Industries, and the rug is by Serena & Lily.

CARMEL CRUSH Memories of the storybook California village, plus a renovation-ripe bungalow, draw designer Noelle Micek back to create a cozy weekend retreat of my greatgrandfather from 1948, standing in front of the Lone Cypress along 17-Mile Drive. He was atop that craggy rock, the Pacific stretching out behind him—I think that’s part of where the magic of Carmel started for me, a pull toward this old California town. As a child, I used to walk the streets and gaze at those storybook houses, and I’d imagine a real coziness and sense of welcome inside. I’d try to picture the families who lived behind the front doors. So when my husband, John, and I set out to find a weekend house for our own family, it’s like there was a little cottage path—figuratively, at least—leading us right back to Carmel.

I HAVE A PICTURE

24

The house we found was built in 1914, pre-dating the so-called fairy-tale architecture that arose in the late 1920s, a style that was the brainchild of designer Hugh Comstock (think steep storybook gables, of-center doors, and deep eaves). But our cottage has many of Carmel’s earlier hallmarks, such as old wooden ceiling beams, board-and-batten walls, and a roofline that’s set in waves, mimicking the ocean. (The real waves, I can hear from the deck.)

And there is this wonderful little wine cellar down a steep, narrow staircase, a discovery that has its own brand of kismet. John and I have a little boutique winery called Red Stitch that we own with two

BY NO E LLE M IC EK

P H OTO GRAPHS BY DAVI D TSAY

STYLI N G BY LI Z STR ON G

HAVENS

( LIFE ON THE COAST )

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

25

HAVENS

( LIFE ON THE COAST )

other families—call it a passion for wine that turned into a fun side venture. Even beyond the good fortune of this find, I can’t help but think of Comstock’s sense of whimsy with a mysterious little room like this. Maybe our house was ahead of its time.

There was, of course, work to be done. This little weekend cottage, particularly in a place with such strong memories for my family, needed to be a spot where we could welcome everyone—family, friends, groups big and small—and we wanted that to start with the Christmas after we bought the house. The idea of updating it was always exciting to me. Back in 2008, I traded my career in bond sales for an organization business, which quickly and happily blossomed into a design business, so I did the sketches myself. (Nothing like an invitation to 30-plus family members for the holidays to help hurry along a renovation!) In just three months, we had gutted and redesigned the kitchen, converted the existing family room into another bedroom, added a breakfast nook, installed new hardwood floors in the main house, and turned a separate cottage into updated guest quarters. I also added lots of built-ins throughout—I always loved the idea of someone tucking into a window seat with a good book.

Now, we spend two weekends a month here, plus three straight weeks in the summer. Though our full-time home is in Diablo, only an hour and a half north, there’s a real togetherness that happens when we’re here. Whether we have friends or family in tow or it’s just us, there’s an unspoken acknowledgment that we leave behind distractions. Here, we pack our little red wagon for the beach—I like to say the water is more wetsuit warm than bathing suit warm!—or walk into town, where there’s a great library that our

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

Clockwise from above: The front door is painted Evening Dove by Benjamin Moore. In the kitchen, the ceramic tiles have a linen-like texture beneath the gloss; the glass pendant lighting is from local shop Jan de Luz. Micek hung a sea grass drum chandelier above the breakfast nook’s zinc-topped table; the sea urchin art is by Natural Curiosities.

Micek custom-designed the bunks in Charlotte and Jack’s room, complete with jute-wrapped headboards and rope suspension. The striped turquoise fabric is by Osborne & Little, and the copper lantern-style sconces are from Circa Lighting.

LIFE IN …

CARMEL-BY-THE-SEA, CALIFORNIA FRIENDLIEST SHOP Coast Carmel NW Corner of Ocean Avenue and San Carlos Street 831/250-5574

BEST CUP OF JOE The Carmel Cofee House & Roasting Company Alleyway on Ocean Avenue between Dolores and San Carlos streets 831/626-2095 or carmelcoffee.com

KILLER SUNDAY BRUNCH Mission Ranch 26270 Dolores St. 831/624-6436 or missionranchcarmel.com

SALTIEST DIVE BAR Sade’s Lincoln Street between Ocean and 7th avenues 831/624-0787

STRONGEST WINE LIST La Bicyclette Center of Dolores Street and 7th Avenue 831/624-6436 or labicyclette restaurant.com

LOCALS LOUNGE Terry’s Restaurant & Lounge in The Cypress Inn Lincoln Street at 7th Avenue 831/624-3871 or carmelterrys.com

BEST BEACHSIDE COCKTAIL BYO to Carmel Beach for sunset At the foot of Ocean Avenue carmelcalifornia.com/ carmel-beach.htm

GO-TO GIFT SHOP elizabethW Ocean Avenue between Monte Verde and Lincoln streets 831/626-3892 or elizabethw.com

HIDDEN BEACH SPOT Carmel River State Beach Carmelo Street 831/649-2836 or parks.ca.gov

27

HAVENS

( LIFE ON THE COAST ) Micek converted a former family room into a sunny blue-and-coral guest room. The window seat cushion and headboard are a chambray linen. The coral pillow fabric is by Victoria Hagan.

THIS ROOM THEIR INSPIRATION Designer: Genevieve Ghaleb

DXV tapped the celebrated expertise of Genevieve Ghaleb to reimagine the iconic city of Miami in the Contemporary Movement.

“How great would it be to take the palette from outside your window or from your balcony and just bring it into the space?”

– Genevieve Ghaleb

The family spends most evenings on the deck, which is just of the kitchen and dining room.

The furniture is from Restoration Hardware.

Contemporary Beach I was inspired by the present-day Contemporary Movement in Miami to create this room for a busy gentleman in need of intentional daily luxury.

A lot of the elements feature simple, clean lines. The Percy® Collection Faucets capture this perfectly—their proportion is like no other I’ve seen. So refined, they just sit back unobtrusively in this contemporary space.

It so happens that the Lyndon® Freestanding Soaking Tub is by far my favorite tub on the market. It’s very curvaceous and sexy.

And I like that it is ageless, working well with the contemporary designs of today and tomorrow, yet flexible enough for historic rooms influenced by yesterday.

For more on Genevieve’s room, visit us online at dxv.com

kids love. At night, John often fills the wagon with firewood, and I pack hot dogs and s’mores fixings for the kids, plus some wine and snacks for us. We hang out on the beach, play, or sometimes just watch the dolphins, then run the kids through the shower outside before bed. Then we’ll sit out on the deck and listen to the sounds of the ocean. The weather here is pretty dreamy all the time.

One of the other things I have always loved about Carmel is that

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

I can stand anywhere in town and know exactly where I am. There’s a distinct style here, but there’s also an enchantment. I felt it when I was 17 and brought my friends here to the old Tradewinds Cottage—a quintessential Carmel guesthouse a block from the beach—to celebrate my birthday. And I feel it now when I open the door to welcome someone new, or when I see one of my kids curled up in a window seat with a book, cozy and warm.

—as told to Ellen McGauley Q

DXV presents the Lyndon® Freestanding Tub and Contemporary Floor Mount Tub Filler.

A TIME.

A PLACE. A MOVEMENT.

Miami Reimagine the Contemporary Movement.

Discover the entire luxurious collection of bathroom products at dxv.com.

This DXV bathroom was designed by Genevieve Ghaleb.

CLASSIC

GOLDEN ERA

MODERN

CONTEMPORARY

( COLLECTING )

BRASS PINEAPPLES Extend tropical hospitality with midcentury design’s top brass

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

IT’S THE SYMBOLIC EQUIVALENT of a warm welcome and a cool cocktail.

Pineapples have been a near-ubiquitous emblem of hospitality since the early 1500s, when they began rising in favor among European explorers as a sweet— and enticingly rare—treat. Whole, ripe pineapples were considered a pricey and prized commodity because spiriting them from the Caribbean and South American groves where they thrived required the fastest ships. (Otherwise they’d arrive long past their prime.) So, much like breaking out the “good scotch” today, wealthy hosts would crown their

BY BETSY C R I B B

feasts with the tropical splurge to show guests that they spared no expense to welcome them. Later, in the 1950s, ’60s, and ’70s—long after canning technology made the once-extravagant fruit as readily available as a loaf of bread—the stillpopular pineapple motif received a glam makeover. Brass forms began popping up in sophisticated midcentury households as centerpieces or servingware. And today they are as chic as ever, and easy to find in vintage shops and online marketplaces such as eBay, Etsy, and Chairish.

Here’s a look at some of that era’s shining symbols of convivial hospitality. ³

PHOTOGR A PHS BY STEPHEN DEVR I ES

PROP STYLING BY RACHAEL BURROW

HAVENS

Midcentury hosts shook things up with sweet salt and pepper shakers like these (roughly $40 a pair).

Olive, anyone?

This 1950s goldplated cocktail pick set was given to its original owner as a housewarming gift.

Similar sets go for about $60 in vintage shops or online.

This swank dinner bell has a nice ring to it: At just 6 inches high, it brings loads of oldfashioned sophistication to supper time. Pieces like it can be snapped up for less than $20.

Precious metal: complete Hollywood Regency–style centerpieces like this 1970s candleholder are rare, fetching up to $400 for the set.

Three-tiered stands like this one serve up party snacks with tropical punch. Find them for less than $200.

Talk about perfect form: Removable lids turn these shapely containers into decorative vases; larger versions double as retro-chic ice buckets. Prices tend to run the gamut, between $150 and $750 depending on size and condition.

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

31

A D V E RT I S E M E N T

Generation

ENCORE At 67, competitive cyclist and breast cancer survivor CHERYL CHERRY is in the best shape of her life. This grandmother recently lost 50 lbs., and is inspiring others with her strength, determination, and lifelong positivity.

HEALTHY HABITS WORTH KEEPING

1 THINK POSITIVE AND GIVE YOUR BODY A BOOST Optimism can have a valuable impact on your body. A positive outlook has been associated with decreases in depression and stress, and improvements in cardiovascular and immune health.

2 TRY OTHER WAYS OF EATING TO SEE WHAT WORKS FOR YOU

How did you decide to get in shape?

I stayed in shape up through my early 40s, but at my heaviest, I was 172 lbs. I could barely pick up my baby grandson, and I knew it was time to get healthy. My son and my husband were so helpful in keeping me on track. I told them, “Don’t you dare take no from me! If I say I don’t feel like working out, you say, ‘oh yes, you do!’”

How do you approach challenges in your life?

I look at personal trials as adventures and I face them head-on. When I was diagnosed with triple negative breast cancer, I knew I needed to be strong, and the best way was to stay positive. Now, I’m celebrating my 23rd year of being cancer-free, and life continues to get better and better every day.

How have you and your husband changed your lifestyle?

I started doing nutrition research and realized we needed to incorporate more fresh vegetables and fewer processed foods. When we eventually decided to go vegan, we did it in steps, and slowly phased out meat. It’s been an incredible, sustainable change for us, and our doctor’s visits prove it!

What are the biggest successes you’ve had on your bike?

I’ve won 45 gold and five silver medals in the past three years including two medals at the 2015 National Senior Games! My husband and I also use the Charity Miles app, and we just became ambassadors.

We’ve each logged 14,000 miles on it, and it’s so rewarding to watch the donation amounts go up and up.

No matter what popular plans may tell you, there’s no one-size-fits-all diet that works for everyone. It may be helpful to try different approaches to eating like veganism, low-carb, or the Mediterranean diet to see what suits your body best.

3 ENJOY THE GREAT OUTDOORS AND EXERCISE OUTSIDE You may notice some big benefits when you get fresh air. Exercising outdoors can give you more energy and help you get your daily dose of vitamin D3. Plus, the park is budget-friendly, so you can save money and get in shape at the same time.

STRETCHING A PLAN POSITIVE THINKING TAKING THE STAIRS A CHECKUP WHOLE WHEAT PASTA MORE CARDIO FLOSSING STEP CLASS MEDITATION MORE LEAFY GREENS GETTING MORE H2O START WITH A SPIN CLASS A WORKOUT BUDDY FALLING IN LOVE DANCING BREATHING EXERCISES A NEW LANGUAGE WEIGHTLIFTING A GOOD BREAKFAST A FLU SHOT Spinning clay exercises your creativity, as well as your arms. Taking care of your health doesn’t have to be complicated.

Partner with Humana and we’ll help create a plan for your health that works for your life today and for many, many, many years to come.

HAVENS

( OUTDOORS IN )

VIEW WITH A ROOM

MICHAL KRAKOWIAK/GETTY IMAGES; OPPOSITE: HAND TOWEL AND MARMALADE: STEPHEN DEVRIES/ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS

Rise and shine! The cheerful color of Portofino’s centuries-old harbor inspires a sunny, family-style breakfast nook

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

BY R ACHA EL B U R R OW

CRAFTED OF SUSTAINABLE RATTAN

1 3 2

PERFECT FOR BANQUETTE SEATING 9 4

5

1 Serena & Lily Lowry

Pendant, $2,798; serenaandlily.com 2 Madeline Weinrib

Embroidered Hand Towel in Blue, $95; madeline weinrib.com

MADE FROM ORANGES GROWN IN PORTOFINO

3 Serena & Lily Riviera Armchair in Dandelion, $248; serenaandlily.com

6

4 VIETRI Modello Mug, $44; vietri.com

8

5 Williams-Sonoma

Bellini Cocktail Mix in White Peach, $15; williams-sonoma.com

THE PORTOFINO INSPIRED BREAKFAST NOOK 7

6 Kiss That Frog Olivewood Spreaders, $108 for a set of four; food52.com 7 Frontgate Washed

Teak Farmhouse Table, $2,695; frontgate.com 8 Niasca Portofino

EASILY SEATS EIGHT

Orange Marmalade, $8.80 (3.5 oz.); eataly.com 9 Ballard Designs Blair Bench with Canopy Stripe Kiwi/Sand Fabric and Dove Gray Finish, $1,274 (as shown); ballarddesigns.com

SUNNY-SIDE-UP STYLE See more charming breakfast nooks at coastalliving.com/breakfastnooks

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

35

NAVIGATOR Whre To Go Nw On The Coast WEEKEND GETAWAY

CAPE CHARLES, VIRGINIA A Cinderella of the Chesapeake, this Eastern Shore gem has transformed itself into a lively beach town with great seafood and charming historic homes

Feeling the love every day in downtown Cape Charles

BY M ARISA S PYKER

PHOTOGR A PHS BY CHR I S M. R OGER S

37

NAVIGATOR

( WEEKEND GETAWAY )

STAY FOR A LIFETIME

STAY FOR A WEEKEND

Three days of wining, dining, and playing outdoors on the Eastern Shore FRIDAY / 5 P.M. Start the weekend with a wine tasting at Gull Hummock Gourmet Market, a wine, beer, and specialty foods shop in the heart of downtown. Pick up some Seaside Gourmet Chocolate while you’re there; 757/331-1500.

FRIDAY / 7:30 P.M. Saunter to The Shanty, where the party continues on the open-air deck, with cold beers, cornhole, and fresh seafood (try the fried oyster po’ boy with

lemon-caper aïoli); 757/695-3853 or shantyseafood.com.

SATURDAY / 10 A.M. Stroll downtown’s historic district with its late 19th- and early 20th-century architecture. Key stops: Moonrise Jewelry (757/6780055 or moonrise jewelry.com), Meredith Restein’s gallery of coastal pieces; At Altitude Gallery (757/394-9200 or ataltitudegallery.com), which showcases Gordon Campbell’s breathtaking aerial

photography; and Brown Dog Ice Cream (757/695-3868), an elevated scoop shop that’s open seasonally.

(You can pick up pints at Gull Hummock year-round.)

SATURDAY / 2 P.M. Count your blessings: This is a a town that doesn’t make you choose between active hour and happy hour.

The Paddle Your Glass Of guided kayak tour with SouthEast Expeditions takes you on a 45-minute paddle along the marshy banks of Church Creek (a birding mecca) and then drops you on the shores of Chatham Vineyards for a wine tasting (just keep in mind you’re paddling back!); 757/331-6190 or southeast expeditions.com.

SATURDAY / 5 P.M. Catch a Chesapeake sunset while dining on fresh-from-the-bay

CHECK

IN

seafood like local oysters, clams, or Maryland blue crab cakes at the justupscale-enoughfor-Saturday-night Oyster Farm Seafood Eatery at Kings Creek; 757/331-8660 or theoysterfarmat kingscreek.com.

SUNDAY / 9 A.M. Do up brunch (or just linger over cofee) at the two-story, Art Deco–style Cape Charles Cofee House, a beloved-by-locals spot; 757/331-1880 or thecapecharles cofeehouse.com.

SUNDAY / 11 A.M. Cap of the weekend with a round at Bay Creek, an awardwinning golf resort that features signature courses, each with prime water views, from both Jack Nicklaus and Arnold Palmer. Your postround beer awaits at Coach House Tavern; 757/331-8742 or baycreek.net.

Despite being a century old and in the heart of the historic district, the 22-room Hotel Cape Charles features a modern exterior makeover. Inside, the loft-style rooms with exposed brick walls are light-filled and airy. Organic breakfasts of locally roasted cofee and homemade granola, plus yogurt, juices, and fruit, are served daily; 757/695-3854 or hotelcapecharles.com.

BAY BEAUTY 3 bedrooms, 4½ baths 4,363 square feet • $2,426,000 MLS #42822 / baycreek.net

HISTORIC CHARM 3 bedrooms, 2½ baths 3,000 square feet • $339,900 MLS #43887 / coldwellbanker.com

VICTORIAN VIBE 3 bedrooms, 2 baths 1,954 square feet • $541,000 MLS #43424 / baycreek.net

SHINGLED STYLE 4 bedrooms, 2½ baths 2,400 square feet • $346,900 MLS #42978 / longandfoster.com

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

COURTESY OF REALTY COMPANIES (4)

The good life (clockwise from far left): the fishing pier at sunset; soft-shell crab, oysters, and crab-topped burger at The Shanty; sweet stuf at Brown Dog Ice Cream; chilling at Gull Hummock Gourmet Market

WEAR THE ORIGINAL. AND LET COPIES BE COPIES. Iconic shoes in a new design!

Available in sizes 2 – 9

Available in 900 MEPHISTO shops ^VYSK^PKL HZ ^LSS HZ PU ^LSS Z[VJRLK ZOVL ZWLJPHSPZ[ ZOVWZ @V\ JHU Ä UK [OL 4,7/0:;6 KPZ[YPI\[VY PU `V\Y HYLH ^P[O H JSPJR PU [OL 4,7/0:;6 Z[VYL SVJH[VY \UKLY!°www.mephisto.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

SHOREBUYS F O R H O M E . F O R B O DY. F O R G I V I N G .

The Buoy Guy. Cool things made in Maine with real buoys. Our Welcome Buoys come personalized or plain. Hang them anywhere—many designs to choose from. Buoy Bat is patented and easy to use because it’s light and has a giant sweet spot. Face-friendly ball doesn’t hurt and won’t break windows! Shop online at TheBuoyGuy.com or call us at 207.704.0260

Chatham Sign Shop. Stylish handcrafted quarterboards and house number signs in a variety of motifs featuring durable marine enamels and 23k gold leaf make these unique home accents truly delightful. Call 800.547.4467 for a free brochure, or shop chathamsignshop.com. Order early for Holiday gift giving.

Dune Jewelry. The Original Beach Sand Jewelry Co.® uses sand from your favorite beach to create a unique line of patented, keepsake jewelry that lets you “live for the moment, then take it with you.” We have thousands of sands in stock or send us your own! DuneJewelry.com | 617.364.1065. HANDMADE WITH SAND FROM YOUR FAVORITE BEACH

Mother’s Peapod® Guy Harvey Jewelry. Heirloom Quality Jewelry to Celebrate the Sea and Nature. Inspired by the Artwork of Guy Harvey. Handcrafted using time-honored enameling techniques. A multitude of timeless designs. Orders of $99 or more ship free. Your purchases help Save Our Seas. Shop guyharveyjewelry.com.

North Country Wind Bells. North Country Wind Bells® echo the reminiscent sounds of buoy bells on the high seas. Makes Memorable gifts! Starting at $29.95 and up! Call 877.930.5435 or shop NorthCountryWindBells.com

Peapod Jewelry. Mother’s Peapod® handmade in our Mid-Coast Maine studio. Available in sterling silver, gold plate or 14k gold customized with Birthpearls® to celebrate your loved ones. Peapods with 1 – 8 “peas”. peapodjewelry.com | 207.882.9500

Outer Banks Trading Group. Fantasy Fish handpainted on wood, adorned with recycled materials.

Made in the USA by Artist, Lisa Pirkle. $69-$79 ea. A variety of vibrant coastal colors available. Ready to hang. Approx. size 24" x 12" each. obxtradingroup.com | 919.249.6121

Outer Banks Trading Group. Handcrafted Coastal Holiday Tree. Size: 35" x 15". $129 - $139. Trees are made from recycled beach fence (wood) with real dried starfish. Hanger included. Made in USA. obxtradingroup.com | 919.249.6121

Weston Gallery. Along with our Forever Beach Badge Jewelry Collection is our newest original design, a “Jersey by the Sea” pendant, made in sterling silver or enamel and sterling silver.

Westongalleries.com | 732.292.1664

NAVIGATOR ( THE GUIDE )

18 SPA VACATIONS THAT WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE Put your own well-being at the top of the to-do list at these gorgeous spas and retreats on the beach (and aboard ships!).

Do we have to say you’re worth it?

Because you are

Six Senses Laamu, Maldives

SLEEP BETTER

YOGIC SLEEP PROGRAMS AT SIX SENSES RESORTS AND SPAS COURTESY OF SIX SENSES LAAMU

The Maldives, Marbella, and more

Yoga is glorious. Sleep is vital. And at nine coastal Six Senses resorts and spas, the power of the former has been crafted to improve your chances of the latter—what could be better? Yogic Sleep programs of three to 14 nights (depending on location) are grounded in several yoga practices, including yoga nidra and pranayama, that allow you to practice your mastery of relaxation, which should help you summon sleep better once you leave the tranquility of the resort. (One could argue these programs borrow the “Z” of Zen for more z’s.) Spa treatments that reinforce relaxation and allow for a sense of indulgence fill out your quiet, slumber-focused days. Novices are welcome, as are more experienced yoga practitioners. Yogic Sleep rates start at $467 for three nights, not including accommodations; 855/695-6693 or sixsenses.com. ³

BY TR ACEY MI N KI N

CLOSER TO HOME The Peacefulness treatment at the Spa at the Ritz-Carlton in Naples, Florida, is a 110-minute combination of massage and use of aromatic oils to promote relaxation and sleep, while releasing tension. $295; 239/598-3300 or ritzcarlton.com.

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

41

NAVIGATOR

( THE GUIDE )

BREAK UP WITH YOUR DEVICE (JUST FOR A WHILE)

DIGITAL DETOX AT THE SPAS AT MANDARIN ORIENTAL Barcelona, Bodrum, Bangkok, and more Hand it over, and hand yourself your life back.

Digital Detox at Mandarin Oriental’s spas begins with surrendering your phone. The relaxation rooms ofer device-free activities that include note card and journal writing, and coloring. A tailored spa treatment combines an aromatic bath with a massage that concentrates on the device-assaulted zones of the head, eyes, neck, shoulders, and hands.

Take home crystals, eye masks, meditation pillows, and teas and oils to continue the calm and help maintain your independence. Rates start at $669; 800/526-6566 or mandarinoriental.com.

CLOSER TO HOME Head to Oahu in 2017 for a Time to Log Of weeklong Digital Detox retreat that includes silent and mindful walking, restorative yoga, body treatments, surfing lessons, and vegetarian meals. Rates start at $2,434, excluding airfare; itstimetologof.com.

SURF YOUR WAY TO WELLNESS

YOGA + FITNESS + SURF + SPA PACKAGE AT HOTEL KOMUNE Bali, Indonesia Talk about your good vibrations. This luxury hotel in romantic East Bali marries destination-spa levels of wellness with surfing and paddleboarding lessons at a famed wave break at Karamas Beach. A seven-day retreat features daily massage, an ayurvedic consultation, unlimited yoga and fitness classes, surf lessons, food from the resort’s organic garden, and even night surfing. An activity day during the retreat provides guests an opportunity to choose among options including whitewater rafting, hiking a volcano at sunrise, or going on a night safari (animals, not surfing). Rates start at $995 for the package; 62/361/301-8888 or komuneresorts.com.

CLOSER TO HOME The Break, a retro surf hotel in Narragansett, Rhode Island, will coordinate surf lessons out on the water and arrange for surfboard-esque Surfset fitness workouts on the pool deck, and the spa specializes in a Surfers Massage; 401/363-9800 or thebreakhotel.com.

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

SEASIDE SPAS Because nothing jump-starts serenity like an ocean view.

Discover more of our favorite escapes at coastalliving.com/coastalspas

COURTESY OF GANSEVOORT HOTEL GROUP; OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF MANDARIN ORIENTAL BARCELONA, COURTESY OF HOTEL KOMUNE (2)

JUMP-START YOUR FITNESS

GET-FIT RETREAT AT GANSEVOORT TURKS + CAICOS Providenciales, Turks & Caicos Here’s why you should put this at the top of your New Year’s resolution list (or go this weekend in advance of the holiday feasting to come): The flight is a short one, relatively speaking, and it’s the perfect boot-camp-inparadise experience, putting all your muscles to work while giving you the getaway you deserve. Based at the resort’s Exhale Spa, the action side of the itinerary you create can include heralded signature workouts like Core Fusion Sport and Core Fusion Barre, which can be balanced with a mind-body class, massages, grilled fish, spa drinks—all in the chic setting of the Gansevoort. Crystal clear waters, paddleboarding, and the occasional sea turtle sighting are bonuses. Rates start at $495; 888/8445986 or gansevoorthotelgroup.com. ³ CLOSER TO HOME The gurus at Rancho La Puerta in Tecate, Mexico, an hour outside of San Diego, do fitness better than pretty much anyone. The Fitness Week package includes spa meals, group classes, guided hikes, walks, and activities. Rates start at $3,900; 800/443-7565 or rancholapuerta.com.

FIRES THAT INSPIRE ...by Spark Modern Fires. Designed and engineered to be extraordinary.

See our photo gallery at www.sparkfires.com or 203.791.2725

Curve of the Oak Residence, Valdosta, GA Architect, Designer & Photo: Rob Evans, AIA NCARB, IPG Incorporated, Architects & Planners

modern Þ res

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NAVIGATOR

Add Delicious Flavor to Your Favorite Rice Recipes with Mahatma® Jasmine Rice

( THE GUIDE ) OPEN YOUR MIND (REALLY)

SPAS THAT WILL ROCK YOUR BOAT Wellness has never been bigger in cruising, and these companies are leading the fleet.

CANYON RANCH The renowned landbased spa also now owns the high seas with highprofile partnerships with cruise lines.

Celebrity Cruises ships are home to Canyon Ranch SpaClub at Sea, stafed by fitness experts trained at the Ranch and with an excellent menu of spa treatments and wellness oferings. Its Take Care of YourSelfie spa treatments are targeted for digital detoxing. You’ll also find Canyon Ranch spa clubs on Oceania Cruises, Regent Seven Seas, and none other than the Queen Mary 2; canyonranch destinations.com.

Thai Curry Rice Bowl INGREDIENTS 2 to 3 teaspoons sesame oil 1 pound peeled and deveined shrimp 1 tablespoon stir-fry oil or vegetable oil 3 garlic cloves, minced 1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger 2 cups chopped pineapple 3 to 4 cups cold, cooked Mahatma Jasmine Rice 5 green onions, finely chopped 3 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari 1 to 2 teaspoons chili-garlic paste or sriracha 1 teaspoon sesame seeds

YOGA AND MEDITATION RETREAT AT BLUE OSA YOGA AND RETREAT CENTER Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica Maine-based Rolling Meadows Yoga & Meditation Retreats go south during the chilly New England winters and early spring to hold meditation retreats in Costa Rica. Think of a full week of daily yoga/ meditation practice for two and a half hours twice a day (mornings focus on pranayama and yoga asana; afternoons on restorative and yin yoga, plus pranayama and meditation practice), paired with vegetarian meals sourced from local farms. The Blue Osa Yoga and Retreat Center is a lush, eco-chic resort on the Osa Peninsula, and is the perfect getaway destination for seven days of calm, focused renewal. Rates start at $1,395, not including airfare; 888/666-6412 or rollingmeadowsretreat.com.

CLOSER TO HOME While the ancient practice of meditation may not have been invented at Esalen, in Big Sur, California, it has certainly been given a spectacular home at the famed self-improvement center. With about 550 workshops and retreats a year, Esalen is an ideal spot for beginning (or fine-tuning) your meditation practice. Weekend retreats include alluring themes such as “Returning to Ease” and “Become the Master of Your Life.” Rates start at $405; 888/837-2536 or esalen.org.

These beautiful spas on one Viking Star cruise ship and one Viking Sea cruise ship capture the Nordic love of saunas, plunge pools, and hot-and-cold rituals (including rolling around in a snow grotto); 855/ 338-4546 or viking cruises.com.

VISIT MAHATMARICE.COM FOR MORE RECIPES.

MANDARA The Norwegian Escape, the newest ship from Norwegian Cruise Lines, is home to this luxurious spa that has steam, salt, and snow rooms, along with a thalassotherapy pool and 24 treatment rooms; 866/234-7350 or ncl.com.

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

MARIA HILLIER PHOTOGRAPHY; OPPOSITE: COURTESY OF AMAN

LIVNORDIC PREPARATION 1. Heat wok over high heat until a few drops of water evaporate immediately. Swirl sesame oil in pan to coat. (If using a nonstick skillet, heat oil over medium-high heat.) Add shrimp, and stir-fry 3 minutes or until done. Transfer to a large bowl; cover and keep warm.

2. Heat stir-fry oil in wok over high heat (medium-high, if using a nonstick skillet).

Add garlic and ginger; cook 30 seconds or until fragrant. Stir in pineapple and rice, and stir-fry 1 to 3 minutes or until heated through. Stir in green onions and cooked shrimp.

3. Combine soy sauce and chili-garlic paste in a small bowl; stir into rice mixture.

Sprinkle with sesame seeds, and serve immediately.

GET SOME CLARITY

AWARENESS IMMERSION PROGRAM AT AMANPURI Phuket, Thailand Ready to reach a whole new plane in the new year?

The Awareness Immersion program at lush, serene Amanpuri includes meditation and yoga practice, plus therapies that encourage inner healing, like reiki; exfoliation treatments that help purify your body’s balance; massage targeted to calm the central nervous system; and three sessions a day with specialists in achieving awareness. Daily spa treatments, an evening group session, and liquid-based meals round out this mind-altering retreat. Programs are three, five, seven, 10, and 14 nights. Rates start at $3,770; 754/216-7830 or aman.com/wellness. Q

Light Up YOUR

Lifestyle

CLOSER TO HOME On the Maya Riviera, Belmond Maroma Resort & Spa revives Mexico’s ancient Temazcal ritual with herb-infused steam, meditation, chanting, and an aloe vera rubdown that is sure to speak to spa lovers. Rates start at $395 (Temazcal, $164); 866/454-9351 or belmond.com.

www.barnlightelectric.com 800.407.8784

( DOUBLE TAKE )

SAN LUIS OBISPO VS. HUMBOLDT SAN LUIS OBISPO Hip and scenic, the home of gorgeous whites

Two of California’s wine-rich coastal regions go head to head for top honors

BY TR ACEY MI N KI N

HUMBOLDT Redwoods-rich and funky, the land of robust reds

SIP AND BUY In a cozy cluster of more than 30 wineries, Peloton Cellars and Sinor-LaVallee are nearest the water. Plan with the interactive map at slowine.com.

Briceland Vineyards’ award-winning wines (and charming digs) are well worth the twisty drive from Highway 101; 707/923-2429 or bricelandvineyards.com.

TASTE THE BEST Alice Waters protégé Brian Collins is lighting up the scene at Ember, his of-the-beaten-path spot with a wood-fired grill that highlights local bounty; 805/474-7700 or emberwoodfire.com.

Folie Douce pours from local wineries and pulls from local waters, like Humboldt Bay oysters with horseradish, lemon sorbet, and edible flowers; 707/822-1042 or foliedoucearcata.com.

GO WILD Guadalupe/Nipomo Dunes are perfect for windswept strolling (and played the sands of Egypt in the film The Ten Commandments).

Get oriented at dunescenter.org.

You could spend a week roaming redwood country, but if you’re tight for time, check out Elk Prairie and Gold Blufs Beach, both in Prairie Creek Redwoods State Park.

SLEEP IT OFF SummerWood Winery & Inn has a demonstration kitchen and ofers 20% of for wine club members. Rates start at $300; 805/227-1111 or summerwoodwine.com.

The lovely Carter House Inns also has a great restaurant that features Humboldt County wines. Rates start at $209; 800/404-1390 or carterhouse.com.

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DOUBLE TAKE, DOUBLE MILES With the Capital One® Venture® card, you earn unlimited double miles on every purchase, every day.

Use them towards an unforgettable trip to San Luis Obispo County, CA and Humboldt County, CA. Credit approval required. Offered by Capital One Bank (USA), N.A. ©2016 Capital One

WHICH CALIFORNIA JEWEL TAKES THE CROWN IN THIS SHOWDOWN? Vote for your pick at coastalliving.com/ sanluisobispohumboldt

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: DAVID MADISON/GETTY IMAGES, DANITA DELIMONT/GETTY IMAGES, COURTESY OF ANDREW GOFF—LOST COAST OUTPOST, SIERRALARA/GETTY IMAGES, COURTESY OF MATTHEW LOVETTE/JUMPING ROCKS, INC., COURTESY OF CHRIS LESCHINSKY/SUMMERWOOD WINERY & INN, DOUG STEAKLEY/GETTY IMAGES, COURTESY OF KENDRA ARONSON; ILLUSTRATIONS BY JULIA LUDLAM

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( POSTCARD )

Greetings frm ...

CARLSBAD, CALIFORNIA

Photographer Gately Williams captures the golden nostalgia of late afternoon surf and sun with a cherished vintage camera

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

On the famed strand of beaches stretching from San Diego to Los Angeles, Carlsbad holds seven miles of tawny sands that draw the steady Pacific swell. Williams, who often shoots on film with his grandfather’s Canon AE-1 camera, uses the preInstagram magic of shooting into the sun to create a dreamlike state.

PIN IT! See this and other inspiring images at pinterest.com/coastalliving

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

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2016 Durban • South Africa

november 8-13 Passion. Inspiration. Power. Come Get Yours.

Passion, Inspiration and Power take center stage at Africa’s first ever ESSENCE® Festival 2016 in Durban.

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Essence® Festival Durban Music Experiences ALL STAR MUSIC FESTIVAL SAT • NOVEMBER 12 FEATURING NE-YO, WIZKID, BLACK COFFEE, CASSPER NYOVEST, AKA, BABES WODUMO, THANDISWA, RIKY RICK, DJ TIRA, BIG NUZ, DJ ZINHLE, ZOE THE SEED, OSKIDO, DAVIDO, BURNA BOY, BUSI AND MORE.

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BUY YOUR TRAVEL PACKAGES AND CONCERT TICKETS TODAY AT ESSENCEFESTIVALDURBAN.COM

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’S N E I L I L .

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PINEAPPLE: CHENGYUZHENG/GETTY IMAGES

Hawaii-based designer, blogger, and entertainer extraordinaire Kelley Lilien, aka Mrs. Lilien

east f e v i t fes a t s o ist! h w t o t l a pic How o r t a N, LILIE with LLEY

E TY, K BEAT R SLATON S I L L NEME SEY E LIND FER BRUN LE Y B SAMP NI CED N A U E C D J I S O PR AND Y JES PHS B A R G O PHOT November 2016

COASTAL LIVING

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PINEAPPLE: CHENGYUZHENG/GETTY IMAGES; MONSTERA LEAF: KCREP/GETTY IMAGES; APPETIZERS AND DRINKS: STEPHEN DEVRIES/PROP STYLING BY LINDSEY ELLIS BEATTY/FOOD STYLING BY CHELSEA ZIMMER

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There's simply no one better to take a traditional Thanksgiving to sunny new heights than Hawaii-based designer and blogger Mrs. Lilien.

The guru of fun shares her festive plan for how to host the big day with an aloha spirit on any shore!

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th bration + in -style Thanksgiving le e c f o r e island est ord In the high delighted to host an r beyond measure!

I’m al splendo st with tropic bulous fea . fa t s o m a h le befitting ost picturesque beac b ta l fu ti n bou em Behold this perched alongside th y lmy breeze trees. ectl a rf b e a p s in t’ t a h h T conut ’ll delig leaves, we anks beneath the co d e u h ll fa iving th In lieu of ws dition of g a tr e th golden stra lohas! t y u in o h y s rr g a n c flaunti As we les of a ple Rickeys rateful hearts + ood p a e in P r u g o Let us raise glorious holiday with ! is th kika’i t to a s a ing!) to m e ’o w s o A Thanksgiv H y p a p a L H ( i l ) kah-ee Hau’o o-ma-keyo h la y la ed how-oh (pronounc

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

Kelley Lilien (center) welcomes friends on the shore of Lanikai.

Pineapple Rickeys and Spicy Craband-Caviar Pinchers

RAISE SPIRITS WITH A TROPI-COCKTAIL A hosted cocktail hour is the real magic behind a successful soiree. The dreaming up of a fabulously fierce party potion to immediately bestow upon guests happens to be my most treasured task. A tipple of such magnitude requires some plotting and planning. However, when executed properly, said libation can become the life of the party. Here I’ve hatched a most befitting Hawaiian happy hour cocktail: the Pineapple Rickey! The genius part? That the main ingredient also serves as the cocktail PINEAPPLE RICKEY vessel—both beneficial and amazingly ornamental!

Slice the tops off 8 dwarf pineapples Pineapples of all sizes are (about ¾ pound each). Scoop the readily available at this flesh out of the pineapples, and reserve. time of year, making this Freeze hollowed pineapple “cups” at “tropi-cocktail” achievable least 4 hours or until ready to use. Blend almost anywhere. Check reserved pineapple flesh until smooth. your local market for adorable Strain through a fine mesh strainer to dwarf pineapples that fit yield 2 cups pineapple juice. Combine perfectly in the palm of your strained pineapple juice, 1 cup gin or hand. Simply cut of the vodka, ½ cup lime juice (from 4 limes), tops, scoop out the meaty and ½ cup light agave or simple middles, and then store the syrup in a pitcher; stir. Divide mixture prepped pineapple “cups” in among frozen pineapple cups. Garnish the freezer until showtime. with a straw and a swizzle.

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

An open-lei centerpiece conveys a Hawaiian warm welcome.

LEI THE TABLE WITH CHEER Unfurling like a table runner, an open-ended lei is a bewitching centerpiece and an ideal sentiment, representing the spirit of aloha— a Hawaiian word meant to communicate the feeling of joyful sharing. Here, local flowers, ferns, and leaves are braided with raffia, creating an exquisite tropical explosion that cascades down the table. To re-create an open-ended lei of your own, simply gather natural treasures from your surroundings and tie them into long strands of raffia. Be sure to pass the lovely meaning of your table lei on to your guests: It will warm their spirit in unforgettable ways!

POLYNESIAN POP Create comfy bench seating with plush pillows in fabulous floral fabric, layered on top of monstera leaves for a touch of the tropics. High-backed vintage rattan chairs make Thanksgiving thrones for happy hosts—or guests of honor! (Find similar vintage seating at Circa Who.) Some of the Mrs.’s favorite aloha accents: Spoonflower fabrics Tropicali Afternoon (round pillows), Tiger Lily Light (square pillows), and Tahitian Tikis 1 (napkins); Blue Pheasant’s Liliana flatware; and The Roc Shop’s Aloha drink stirrers. The floral design is by Meleana Estes.

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

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Hawaiian Sweet Roll Citrus Stuing, Toasty Mac Nut Green Beans, Tiki Turkey with Buttered Rum–Pineapple Glaze, Coconut-Ginger Sweet Potato Brûlée (recipes, p. 60–61)

STEPHEN DEVRIES/PROP STYLING BY LINDSEY ELLIS BEATTY/FOOD STYLING BY CHELSEA ZIMMER (2); PINEAPPLE: CHENGYUZHENG/GETTY IMAGES; PALM LEAF: BRAND X PICTURES/GETTY IMAGES (2)

TIKI THAT TURKEY! For as long as I can remember, Mr. Lilien and I have hosted an island Thanksgiving, and over the years it has evolved into a rather legendary afair. Hawaii has inspired tropical twists in all directions, including the food.

This feast celebrates the sunniest of seaside settings with crab bites, island-style turkey (oh yes, rum is involved), citrus-infused stuffing, coconut, and the everbeloved “mac nut”—plus a cake that will send your guests into a sock-knocking-of swoon! Barefoot is the suggested dress code anyway. For wines to match this island holiday menu, hula on over to coastalliving.com/wineclub.

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BOWL THEM OVER!

PARADISE PUNCH

There’s nothing more indulgent (and, I hate to say it, practical) than a big, boozy bowl of punch for a bunch! Punch is always a fancy to-do; moreover, it can quench the thirstiest crew. Sure, you could blow the bank on organic fresh-pressed guava nectar and a bottle of Dom, but my Paradise Punch is simple and still seriously tasty.

Combine 1 gallon of POG (passion/ orange/guava juice), 1 (750-mL) bottle of rum (such as Gold Hawaiian sugar cane rum), and ½ bottle of Prosecco. Freeze individual pineapple rings speared with fun swizzles for a chilled garnish.

Ho’okupu: Hawaiian gifts of gratitude

Mrs. Lilien’s Luau Cake

GIVE A GIFT OF HO'OKUPU A ho’okupu is both magnanimous and memorable, a native Hawaiian ofering signifying honor and respect in exchange for spiritual mana. Simply put, it’s a lovely little pouch constructed of and tied with ti, a thriving native Hawaiian plant with leaves considered to be divine and thought to bring good luck. A fabulous way to use them? As pretty parting parcels. Simply wrap my favorite local snack, Diamond Bakery’s Coconut Royal Creem Crackers (which ship all across the country; diamondbakery.com) in the leaves, tie with ribbon or twine, and tie on a handwritten card. (You can substitute with any sturdy foliage, and fill with your own favorite local treat—honey, tea, or a note.)

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

CAKE: STEPHEN DEVRIES/PROP STYLING BY LINDSEY ELLIS BEATTY/FOOD STYLING BY CHELSEA ZIMMER

Paradise Punch

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up yo or driftwoo ur own, use bamboo d, or simply fi fallen tree branch. Usi nd a sturdy ng floral p ins,

secure clust ers flowers (ste of local fall ms detach ed tightly cov er the surf ) to ace of foam balls in v attach to th arious sizes, and e stick with ribbon.

Advises the Mrs.: regardless of your geographic spot, you can seize this holiday and make it your own with new traditions!

liday ohas!" o h s f al riou o o l s g e l s ood t thi s s a + t o r t a 3.

"Let's rateful he g with Spicy Crab-and-Caviar Pinchers

SERVES 15 ACTIVE 15 min.

TOTAL 15 min.

1 lb. fresh jumbo lump crabmeat, drained ½ cup mayonnaise 1 Tbsp. minced jalapeño chile 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 2 limes) ½ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. black pepper 3 (2.1-oz.) pkg. frozen mini phyllo pastry shells, thawed 2 Tbsp. chopped chives 1 oz. caviar or salmon roe Whisk together mayonnaise, jalapeño, lime juice, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl.

Fold in crabmeat. Cover and chill until ready to serve, up to 4 hours.

golden brown, about 1 hour and 30 minutes, basting with pan drippings every 30 minutes.

(Cover turkey with aluminum foil if it is getting too brown on top.) Reduce oven temperature to 350°F, and bake until a meat thermometer inserted in thickest portion registers 165°F, 45 minutes to 1 hour, basting with pan drippings every 30 minutes. Remove turkey from pan; remove and discard vegetable mixture from pan and inside turkey cavity. Let turkey stand 20 to 30 minutes before carving.

2. Place 1 rounded teaspoon of the crabmeat

5. Pour pan drippings through a fine wire-

mixture in each phyllo shell. Top evenly with chives and caviar.

mesh strainer over a large saucepan; discard solids. Let stand 5 minutes. Skim fat from top of drippings. Stir in 1½ cups of the stock and remaining ½ cup rum, and bring to a boil over medium-high. Whisk flour into remaining ½ cup stock in a small bowl; slowly add to drippings mixture, whisking constantly.

Cook, stirring often, until thick and bubbly, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat; stir in chopped thyme, vinegar, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon pepper.

1. Pick crabmeat, removing any bits of shell.

COOK WITH COZI! Get these and other crowd-pleasing recipes with Cozi, a free meal-planning app from Time Inc. See p. 8 for details.

Tiki Turkey

TIKI TURKEY WITH BUTTERED RUM– PINEAPPLE GLAZE SERVES 12 ACTIVE 20 min.

TOTAL 2 hours, 35 min.

1 ½ 3 1½ ½ 1¼ 3 2

Hawaiian Sweet Roll Citrus Dressing

2 3 3 3 3 1 1

(12- to 14-lb.) fresh whole turkey cup canned pineapple juice Tbsp. kosher salt, divided cups dark rum, divided cup unsalted butter, softened and cut into pieces tsp. black pepper, divided medium carrots, roughly chopped (about 2 cups) celery stalks, roughly chopped (about 1½ cups) medium-size yellow onions, quartered sage sprigs thyme sprigs cups unsalted chicken stock, divided Tbsp. all-purpose flour Tbsp. chopped fresh thyme tsp. sherry vinegar

1. Remove and discard turkey giblets and neck. Place turkey on a wire rack in a large roasting pan; pat dry. Whisk together pineapple juice and 1 tablespoon of the salt.

Using a meat injector, inject ¼ cup of the juice mixture into each breast; let stand at room temperature 1 hour.

2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Place 1 cup of the rum in a small saucepan over medium-high.

Cook until reduced by half, about 7 minutes.

Remove from heat. Whisk butter pieces into rum until melted.

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

4. Bake turkey in preheated oven until deep

HAWAIIAN SWEET ROLL CITRUS STUFFING SERVES 12 ACTIVE 30 min.

TOTAL 55 min.

1 (12-oz.) pkg. Hawaiian sweet dinner rolls, cubed 12 oz. day-old white bread, cubed 4 thick-cut bacon slices 1 cup finely chopped yellow onion (about 1 medium onion) 1 cup finely chopped carrots (about 2 medium carrots) 3 garlic cloves, minced 3 cups unsalted chicken stock ¾ cup unsalted butter, melted 6 large eggs 1 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh sage 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh chives 1 Tbsp. orange zest 2 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Spread cubed rolls and bread on baking sheets in single layers; bake in preheated oven until toasted, about 20 minutes. Let stand until ready to use.

STEPHEN DEVRIES; PROP STYLING BY LINDSEY ELLIS BEATTY; FOOD STYLING BY CHELSEA ZIMMER (6); RECIPES BY EMILY NABORS HALL

SPICY CRAB-AND-CAVIAR PINCHERS

Sprinkle turkey cavity with 1½ teaspoons of the salt and ¼ teaspoon of the pepper.

Insert carrots, celery, onions, sage, and thyme sprigs into cavity. Scatter any remaining vegetables around turkey in roasting pan.

Tie turkey legs together with kitchen twine.

Brush rum-butter mixture generously over turkey. Pour any extra mixture into roasting pan. Sprinkle turkey evenly with 1 tablespoon salt and ¾ teaspoon pepper. Pour 1 cup of the stock into roasting pan.

1. Combine sweet potatoes, rum, brown

3. Whisk together stock, butter, eggs, sage, chives, zest, salt, and pepper in a large bowl.

Add toasted bread cubes, onion mixture, and crumbled bacon; toss to combine. Let stand 20 minutes. Spread mixture in a lightly greased 13- x 9-inch glass baking dish. Bake in preheated oven until top and sides are golden brown and mixture is set, about 25 minutes.

2. Preheat broiler with oven rack 6 inches

1½ lb. haricots verts (French green beans), trimmed 1 tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. black pepper ¼ cup olive oil, divided 2 shallots, thinly sliced 2 tsp. lemon zest plus 1 Tbsp. fresh juice (from 1 lemon) ½ cup chopped toasted macadamia nuts

1. Preheat broiler with oven rack 6 inches from heat. Toss haricots verts with salt, pepper, and 2 tablespoons of the oil.

Spread in an even layer on an aluminum foil–lined rimmed baking sheet. Broil until beans are blistered, about 6 minutes, stirring after 3 minutes.

2. Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil in a small skillet over medium-high. Add shallots, and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain.

3. Place haricots verts in a serving bowl, and toss with zest and juice. Sprinkle with shallots and macadamia nuts.

COCONUT-GINGER SWEET POTATO BRÛLÉE SERVES 12 ACTIVE 24 min.

TOTAL 24 min.

3 lb. sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-in.-thick slices 1 cup light rum 3 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1½ tsp. kosher salt 1 (4-in.) piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped ¼ cup salted butter, melted 1½ cups mini marshmallows ½ cup unsweetened flaked coconut

from heat. Drain sweet potatoes well; transfer to a lightly greased 11- x 7-inch glass baking dish. Drizzle with melted butter. Top evenly with marshmallows and coconut. Broil until coconut and marshmallows are toasted, 1 to 2 minutes.

MRS. LILIEN’S LUAU CAKE SERVES 12 ACTIVE 35 min.

Coconut-Ginger Sweet Potato Brûlée

SERVES 12 ACTIVE 18 min.

TOTAL 18 min.

sugar, salt, and ginger in a large stockpot.

Add water to cover potatoes, and bring to a boil over medium-high, stirring occasionally to dissolve sugar. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until potatoes are just tender, about 12 minutes.

TOTAL 3 hours, 35 min.

¼ cup finely chopped macadamia nuts ¼ cup toasted unsweetened flaked coconut 1 Tbsp. dark brown sugar 4 cups (about 17 oz.), plus 1 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, divided 3 cups granulated sugar 1½ cups (12 oz.) unsalted butter, softened 5 large eggs 2 Tbsp. lime zest plus 2 Tbsp. fresh juice (from 2 limes) 1 tsp. coconut extract 3 tsp. vanilla extract, divided ½ tsp. kosher salt ¾ cup heavy cream ½ cup finely chopped dried pineapple ½ cup canned pineapple juice 3 cups (about 12 oz.) unsifted powdered sugar

Mrs. Lilien’s Luau Cake

TOASTY MAC NUT GREEN BEANS

Toasty Mac Nut Green Beans

2. Cook bacon in a skillet over medium until crisp, about 7 minutes. Transfer to a plate lined with paper towels to drain, reserving drippings in skillet. Add onion, carrots, and garlic to skillet; cook, stirring often, until softened, about 5 minutes. Remove skillet from heat. Crumble bacon.

1. Preheat oven to 325°F. Stir together macadamia nuts, flaked coconut, brown sugar, and 1 tablespoon of the flour in a small bowl; set aside.

2. Beat sugar and butter with an electric mixer on medium speed until light and flufy.

Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating just until incorporated after each addition. Add zest, juice, coconut extract, and 2 teaspoons of the vanilla extract; beat just until combined.

3. Whisk together salt and remaining 4 cups flour in a separate bowl; add to sugar mixture alternately with cream in 3 batches, beating on low just until ingredients are incorporated. Fold in dried pineapple.

4. Spoon half of the batter into a greased and floured 14-cup Bundt pan. Sprinkle evenly with macadamia nut mixture; top with remaining batter. Bake in preheated oven until golden and a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean, about 1 hour and 25 minutes. Cool in pan on a wire rack 30 minutes. Turn cake out onto rack, and cool completely, about 1 hour.

TASTE OF THE TROPICS! Deliver the flavors of the Caribbean to your table with more scrumptious island-inspired recipes at coastalliving.com/tropicaldishes

5. While cake cools, cook pineapple juice in a small saucepan over medium-high until reduced by half, about 9 minutes.

Pour into a bowl; cool to room temperature, about 10 minutes. Whisk in powdered sugar and remaining 1 teaspoon vanilla extract until smooth. Drizzle over cake.

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A quirky woven porter’s chair, gilded starburst mirror, and lime walls (painted Light Green by Benjamin Moore) set a dressed-down vibe in the living room.

GEORGIA ISLE REVIVAL A classic 1970s beach house on Sea Island hits the color jackpot—cue vividly reimagined rooms and modern salutes to the island’s iconic Southern style

BY ELLEN MCGAULEY

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID A. LAND

STYLING BY LIZ STRONG

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A great beach house entrance is all about ... balance and relatability.

“You can put forth a really pretty, polished air in an entryway, but still make sure it relates well to its beachy setting,” says designer Kevin Isbell. Here, the hall tables and mirror are gilded antiques, but they are paired with informal sisal and rattan, plus a playful green vintage chandelier. “The door is original, but we painted it this great blue to dial down the formality right from the start.” The floral Romo wallpaper, Isbell adds, is a modern take on the traditional patterns seen in Cloister guest rooms. “It’s a nod to the island’s history.”

The genius of using latticework is … that it makes you feel like you’re sitting outside in a gazebo, says Isbell. He got the idea for the breakfast room wall detail from some original latticework on the windows. “We ended up stripping away that lattice to clear the view to the pool, and instead wrapped the walls in the pattern,” he explains. The gazebo idea was also what inspired the apple green wall color (Key Lime by Benjamin Moore).

“It feels very outdoorsy,” says Isbell, who upholstered the chairs and banquette in outdoor-rated vinyl and used a moisture- and stain-resistant treatment on the Moroccan-inspired fabric. “The whole room is super low maintenance,” he says.

A

pple green walls and painted chandeliers, whitewashed brick and whiter-still stucco— this isn’t garden-variety Sea Island, says interior designer Kevin Isbell. “Yet it 100 percent belongs.” The home’s setting on an historic isle off the coast of Georgia is perhaps best known for its preeminent resort, The Cloister, and its long history as a five-star, marsh-cloaked escape for a who’s who of 20th-century notables, from sitting presidents to business tycoons. “Like so many historic escapes—Palm Beach and Nantucket, for example—Sea Island has its own style and traditions,” explains Isbell, noting the arched Mediterranean-style facades and classically Southern decorating elements associated with the resort. “And as with anywhere, you have to learn the rules before you can break them.”

His clients, a young New England couple who married on the island close to a decade ago, were game. “I told Kevin, ‘I want a house that fits us, but that still fits in here,” says the wife. The one they found—a U-shaped Southern coastal meets modern Mediterranean hybrid—

had some pretty solid selling points for a family whose escapes would center on swim, sun, and surf. Not only is the beach club just a short three-block walk away, but the horseshoe-shaped footprint of the main house wraps a courtyard pool. With a crew of four young swimmers, having a view of the pool deck from all sides struck them as a pretty dreamy setup. That the interiors were too formal was something the couple knew they could remedy. They also needed to add a bedroom and rethink the outdoor area. “The pool house was so close to the main building that it nearly closed the U,” notes Isbell. “They needed room to stretch out, to relax and play.”

He teamed up with local architect Thad Truett to add a master suite, open up the pool area, and reimagine the 1970s home in a way that syncs better with the owners’ sensibilities but also honors the island’s storied sense of style. “I wanted color, and plenty of it,” says the wife with a laugh. “It needed to feel fresh and fun.” Here, Isbell’s lessons for turning a formal, buttoned-up beach home into a colorful, kid-friendly vacation pad that’s as relaxed as it is beautifully refined.

A smart way to emphasize the outdoors is … to go with natural hues indoors. “Natural palettes, like sand and woody darker browns, work well with what’s out the window,” says Isbell. On the sunroom’s soaring domed ceiling, for example, he opted for pecky cypress paneling, and below it, chose a taupe trellis-pattern sofa fabric, a sandy-hued Ming-style coffee table, and a pair of rattan armchairs the owners found in the attic. A series of arched windows and French doors are new, but were styled after the home’s originals.

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White shiplap walls call for … a riot of color in the furnishings. “We wanted to go a little crazy here,” says Isbell of the pool house living room, where aside from a few naturals, such as a sea grass rug and a raffia-covered coffee table, all of the varied hues are bold. Painted green side tables, a sofa upholstered in a John Rosselli tie-dye patterned fabric, and yellow drip-glaze pottery lamps sing against a crisscross blue-and-green print

by China Seas on an armchair and stool.

“We even trimmed the draperies in a lilac tape,” says Isbell. “That helps tie the color of the furnishings to the white walls.”

Choose shell-encrusted furnishings that … have a bit of history to them. “I always look for pieces that are old and very well designed,” says Isbell. For instance, this mirror has an artful symmetry, particularly along the sides, “and a great color scheme that goes with anything,” he notes. “Shells are a tricky category of decor because they can come off kitschy or chaotic, but a great vintage discovery—we found this one right here in the house, amid renovations!—can bring so much fun to a beach house.”

Kids’ bedrooms need to be ... very adaptable. Isbell designed the daughters’ “pink room” (painted Tippy Toes by Benjamin Moore) to be sneakily versatile. The purple, yellow, blues, and neutrals are all tied together in the drapery fabric, so if the girls—now 8 and 6—decide pink is out, the room can go an entirely different direction without replacing any furniture.

Isbell lined the rock-and-roll drum shade in disco-hot silver foil.

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

To create the ultimate guest room ... blend the most soothing and striking colors of the shore, from soft blues to hot turquoise, marshy greens to sunset coral, with organically inspired elements. In this pool house bedroom, Isbell layered the coastal hues over a foundation of naturals like a sea grass rug, wicker bench, and 1970s faux-bamboo headboard. “The right mix of colors and textures reminds us where we are, which brings its own brand of serenity,” he says.

Black

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS

BY JAD DAVENPORT

Beauty A voyage to Tahiti’s remote Gambier Islands reveals the world’s rarest black pearls, and the surprising secret behind their allure

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G

ABRIEL TEAKAROTU,

a 20-something Tahitian perle cultivateur, slaloms a fishing boat across shallow reefs as pale blue and marbled as Navajo turquoise. We’re in the heart of a vast lagoon nearly 12 miles across, off the coast of Mangareva island. The lagoon guards French Polynesia’s most remote outpost, the beautiful Gambier Islands.

I’ve come here on a hunt for the exotic Tahitian black pearl, and to solve a mystery that has beguiled jewelers for almost half a century. How is it that these islands, home to only a couple dozen small pearl farms, are able to produce the most exquisite black pearls on Earth?

Teakarotu revs the outboard and aims at a distant tinroofed shack that seems to float on the sea. He rubs his goatee. “Don’t worry; everything will be fine,” he says.

“You’ll be back with your friends very soon.”

His reassurances aren’t meant for me, but for the hundred or so black-lipped oysters laid out in nets at our bare feet. We pulled them from the sea five minutes ago. Now we’re rushing them to his family pearl farm, where they’ll undergo a delicate operation. “If they’re out of the water for more than half an hour they will be very unhappy,” Teakarotu says. “They get stressed easily. Oysters are like people; they have souls. Maybe they won’t give us nice pearls. Or worse, they could die.” Each oyster has the potential to produce thousands of dollars worth of pearls, so he does everything he can to keep the mollusks happy.

“Want to sing with me?” he asks. “Oysters love it when you sing to them.” Then the beefy Polynesian with tattoos and surfing scars breaks into a happy Mangarevan lullaby.

Pearls are nature’s most perfect jewel. Unlike diamonds, they don’t require any cutting or processing to reveal their iridescent beauty. Pearls are created when oysters secrete nacre, the glossy shell interior, to entomb an irritant, usually a worm. Fewer than one in 2,000 wild oysters produces a pearl. It is this rarity that inspired fishermen to begin cultivating them more than a century ago.

French Polynesia is famous for her black pearls. Most come from oysters raised on large farms in the Tuamotu Archipelago, made up of flat, Robinson Crusoe–esque atolls. The Tuamotus are within easy striking distance of Papeete, French Polynesia’s capital; several flights a day make the hour-long hop. The farms ofer a popular sort of Neptunian version of agritourism to the nearby luxury resorts. Couples take farm tours and return to their overwater bungalows with expensive necklaces and earrings.

But on Mangareva, more than 1,000 miles south of Papeete, there are no overwater bungalows. In fact, there aren’t any resorts or hotels. After the more than five-hour

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Clockwise from top, left: One of the Teakarotu clan and his oysters; Église de Saint-Joseph and Cathédrale Saint-Michel on Mangareva (2); Gabriel Teakarotu and oysters under the sea; island ruins (2); the Teakarotu family pearl farm

flight from Papeete (there are only two flights a week), I find lodging with Teakarotu’s family in their small guest house, Pension Maro’i. Back in Papeete, a bay like theirs would have $4,000-a-night overwater bungalows in it.

Here, I pay about $100 a night for a rustic cottage that opens to the sea, a red kayak, and family-style meals.

On one of my first evenings, while Marie, the matriarch, mixes coconut milk and raw tuna for poisson cru, I ask if they get many tourists. The other cottages are empty, and it is early December, Tahiti’s high season. “Oui,” she says.

“It’s been busy. We’ve had about 40 visitors this year.”

I fall quickly into the island’s groove. Each morning it takes about 10 minutes to kayak from the beach in front of the guesthouse out to the farm, which is actually a hut on stilts in the bay. It has a kitchen, an open-air bedroom with thin mattresses, and a small studio for the grafter— the technician who opens the oysters and inserts the pearl seed. The deck is piled with buoys and mesh nets. One of Teakarotu’s cousins is usually plucking a ukulele; waves slap the wooden pilings like applause. A pair of Chinese greffeurs giggle when I take photos of them, and call Teakarotu over to see a particularly beautiful pearl.

“You can see the diference,” Teakarotu says when he passes me a shiny new pearl. It’s not the traditional metallic gray of the Tuamotu pearls. I hold the pea-sized gem closer. It’s not black at all, but an almost shimmering peacock green. Or is it blue? It’s like staring into a glass Christmas tree orb. “You can find every color in the rainbow in these pearls. I’ve seen them silver, gold, pistachio, copper, and even cherry,” says Teakarotu.

I ask him, point blank: What’s the secret? He hands the pearl back to the grafter. “The oysters make the pearls,” he says with a shrug. “Maybe you should ask them.”

Pearl farming, it turns out, is relatively uncomplicated.

Oysters don’t need to be fed or watered; they dine on algae and microscopic creatures in the lagoon, keeping their bay clean in the process. They don’t require any elaborate pens. They spend most of their lives just hanging out 20 feet below in the sapphire water.

The most fascinating process is grafting. The grefeurs, who work for a cut of the harvest, have only a few minutes to operate on each oyster before the creature starts to die.

They coax each oyster open and insert a tiny sphere of mussel shell. “This nucleus marble is what gives the pearl its size,” Gabriel says. Then he shows me a sliver of living flesh clipped from another oyster. “It’s this tiny piece of donor mantle the grafter also puts in with the nucleus that gives the pearls their color. They say the most beautiful mantles have more than a million pixels of color in their cells. Without them, these pearls would all be white.”

When a batch of oysters is ready to return to the sea, Teakarotu and I motor out to the buoys. Hung below are long lines. We slip overboard into the cool water and hang

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The iridescent sheen of the nacre inside the black-lipped oyster shell

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

The towers of Cathédrale Saint-Michel; the view of Mangareva from Mt. Mokoto (inset)

“YOU CAN TELL THEM ALL YOUR WORRIES AND PROBLEMS. OYSTERS ARE GREAT LISTENERS” the oyster nets. It will take the average oyster a few years to produce a pearl. More than 900 out of 1,000 pearls harvested will be categorized as average (or worse), worth barely $7 of profit each. The remaining 5 percent or so, the extraordinary pearls, is what keeps the farms in business.

Each oyster will only create two or three pearls in its lifetime—if it’s treated well. Teakarotu talks to them like I talk to my dog. “You can tell them all your worries and problems,” he says. “Oysters are great listeners.”

I take a break from pearling one Sunday morning when Marie invites me to church. The quiet one-street town of Rikitea is dwarfed by the towers of the Cathédrale SaintMichel. It’s the largest cathedral in French Polynesia. The air inside is limestone-cool and fragrant from the women’s plumeria leis. When the women kneel to pray, their long strands of pearls click softly on the wooden pews. There’s not a family on the island who isn’t touched in some way by the pearl trade, Marie had told me. They own a farm or work on a farm or sell goods to the farms. When the hymns and a baptism are over, I approach the altar. It is bejeweled with polished oyster shells. They glow a sorrowful gunmetal gray in the light of the stained-glass windows.

One afternoon, while Teakarotu mends nets, I set out to circumnavigate the island. There’s no Avis or Hertz, so I borrow the family’s one-speed bike. I pedal down into town, weaving along narrow streets dripping with hibiscus and bougainvillea. In front of the police station, the French tricolor snaps in a rising breeze. The two bored gendarmes in their uniforms of tight Hasselhof shorts and white kneesocks watch the morning rush hour. I’m it. Bags of oyster shells are slumped down on the pier, awaiting passage to Korea, where they’ll become bathroom tiles. The sky curdles and rumbles, and the young men mending their oyster nets on the dock keep a weather eye open. At

the edge of town, the older men smoke thin cigarettes and play pétanque, the French cousin of bocce ball. The click of the metal boules punctuates their easy laughter. Stress is rare on Mangareva, even if you’re not an oyster.

Outside of town, the road turns to corrugated coral sand. It climbs steep ridges and winds through pine-shaded valleys. Mangareva has a homegrown sustainability both in the sea and on the land; recycling and reuse are not trendy luxuries but a practical way of life. Frayed fishing nets keep goats out of the gardens; discarded coconut shells nurture young vanilla plants. Old women cut fresh palm fronds for roof thatching, and sweep dried ones into crackling trash fires.

I remember something Teakarotu told me when I asked why the pearl farms are so small here. “When I was little I was always telling my father we needed to raise more oysters, we needed to grow our business and make more pearls,” he said. “But he would look at me and smile and say, ‘No, we have just the right amount of oysters, and they make just the right amount of pearls.’

I didn’t understand this. Why wouldn’t you make more money if you could? It wasn’t until I started working with the oysters, started taking care of them and watching them make their pearls, that I understood what he was really saying. Life is not about taking all you can. Life is about creating all the beauty you can.”

I coast home at dusk. Teakarotu taps on my door.

“Tomorrow you have a meeting with the godfather of

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Black pearls in a wealth of colors

Mangareva pearling,” he says, adding that there’s no need to set an alarm. That’s what the roosters are for.

Dawn comes heavy and pungent. I walk down the creaking pier. Teakarotu is staring out at the sea. He’s in a gleeful mood.

“You smell that?” He snifs the fishy air. “That’s the change in the sea temperature. The water was colder, and now it’s warm again. That means the oysters are making their babies.”

He gives me a shellfish sex-ed speech as we race across the water to Dominique Devaux’s pearl farm and cooperative. Oysters release sperm and eggs into the water, and farmers trap the free-swimming larvae in mesh collectors.

When the larvae have grown into spats, adolescent shells about the size of a lady’s hand, they’re strung together on a line and hung in deep water.

Devaux is a handsome Frenchman in his 60s. His exmilitary carriage matches his crew cut and chiseled face.

He came here in 1975, after the service, and raised pigs, just living of the land. In 1984 he became interested in pearling. Now he employs 50 people and sells more than 1 million pearls a year. He also acts as an auction organizer for smaller family pearl farms in the lagoon.

The farm is busy. Two dozen workers are cleaning shells; more are drilling holes and tying oysters to long lines. In a quiet back room, double rows of grafters hunch over

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their oysters, some of them nodding to their headphones.

Devaux shows me into his office. The floor is covered with metal crates full of pearls from the family farms. Some pearls are as big as shooter marbles. They’re so beautiful I want to plunge my hands in and feel them roll and click through my fingers.

Why does Devaux think the pearls here command the highest prices at auction? He picks one up and moves over to an open window. “You always examine them by natural light, but not in the direct sunlight,” he says. “The shade facing south is the best light.”

He spins the pearl in his fingers. “The luster is what distinguishes them from other pearls in other places.

We are far enough south to get cold water. The oysters like this water. They build their nacre slowly and carefully.” He hands me the pearl. “Look closely—the light penetrates all the way inside.”

So the trick is the water? Devaux smiles. “Raising pearls is magic. I raised pigs. I know how to breed them. I know the babies are coming. But not with oysters. Opening the shell and seeing what she has created? Now that is magic.”

My last morning on Mangareva, I climb up Mt. Mokoto, a 1,400-foot spire. I follow a goat trail to the knife-edge summit and lean against a warm slab of stone, out of the wind. I can the see the entire island from way up here, the red-roofed farms on the lagoons, the dark pine forests, the cathedral, the freighter loaded with bags of oyster shells.

It’s the change in perspective I need after looking so closely at the island, so closely at the pearls, trying to solve their beautiful riddle. And now up here, so high I can see sun glow on the backs of the tropic birds soaring past, everything seems to make sense.

The French talk of the terroir of fine wines, the natural provenance that created them. They say you can taste the soil and sunshine of a certain place in the flavor. Is it possible to understand the terroir of a pearl?

As a farewell gift that morning, Teakarotu’s father gave me a handful of small pearls for my wife and daughters. I take them from my pocket and hold them in my shadow. I can see all the blues of the reef and the greens of the pine forests of Mangareva, even the reds of the lantana meadows and the golds of the distant sandbars.

Far below me, I spot Teakarotu’s wake arrowed toward the farm. When I teased him once about talking to seashells, Teakarotu was adamant that oysters could feel.

“They can feel stress and pain,” he said. “But that also means they can feel love and joy.”

I put my ear in the wind, because I know somewhere down there in his sunny boat on the wide open lagoon, he is singing to his oysters.

Jad Davenport is a Denver-based writer and photographer, and is a frequent contributor to Coastal Living.

The luster of Mangareva farm life on the sea

PEARLS OF WISDOM The black pearls cultivated on Mangareva farms (sometimes referred to as Rikitea pearls, after the main port) are distributed to a wide variety of jewelers.

The best way to know where any pearl was cultured is to buy from a reputable jeweler—one who is able to provide information on the pearl’s provenance. More expensive pearls—in the $300 and up range—should have certificates noting where they were cultured.

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BEACHFRONT

BRILLIANT! Designed for primo sand-and-sea access and easygoing weekends, an airy family beach house ofers a front-row seat to the action along Los Angeles’s spirited South Bay

BY STEPHANIE HUNT PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID TSAY STYLING BY LIZ STRONG

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THE VIEWS AS ART “Picture windows make great art,” says designer Tim Clarke, who suggests adding a good-looking trim like teak, which has a warming efect on conversation areas.

“From our breakfast table, I can see the pool and the ocean, and then the pier and the mountains in the distance,” says the owner of this three-story Manhattan Beach home. It fronts the lively shore along the bike path known as The Strand, arguably the frontline of Southern California’s culture of sun, surf, and—perhaps most notably— beach volleyball. With public courts (drawing pros from all over the country) located right in front of the property, “we wanted to build something special—there’s so much energy; it’s such an animated scene,” the owner says.

But for the entrepreneur and father of two, just as important as embracing the action was instilling a sense of warmth and coziness for his family. He hired Santa Monica–based interior designer Tim Clarke and architects Grant C. Kirkpatrick (KAA Design) and Erik Evens (Evens Architects) to strike the right balance between big, action-packed views and relaxed livability.

Here, the design team shares their oceanfront style essentials.

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A BAREFOOT BEACH PARTY VIBE Clarke hung vintage aloha shirts in the entry hall to set a come-asyou-are tone. “And what says ‘beach party’ more than a Hawaiian shirt?” asks Clarke, who chose the owners’ most rare and unusual prints, and mounted them in thin, wooden frames. “That’s the trick to keeping fun collections from feeling kitschy: Minimal display details make them feel like modern art.”

A SHELTERED ESCAPE “Sometimes the wind and sand blowing in of the ocean can be brutal,” says Clarke, “so I like to create at least one outdoor area that’s sheltered from these elements—not to mention away from beach traic.”

This interior courtyard is on the street–facing side of the house, made private by a stone fireplace (ideal for chilly evenings) and a stucco wall. “Just make sure to incorporate plenty of green, like palms, ivy, and potted plants, to bring nature into all the hardscape.”

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RUSTIC FURNITURE Organic, unpolished pieces mirror the beach’s raw beauty. “Rustic wood furniture implies ease of use,” says Clarke. He had the dining table made locally using old wood. “You never want to design a home that feels too precious to really live in, especially at the beach,” he says.

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A HUGE KITCHEN ISLAND

INDESTRUCTIBILITY

WATERY BLUES

A SALTY COLLECTION

Top, left: This combo prep

Top, right: The breakfast room

Bottom, left: Clarke mixed a

Bottom, right: The unifying

and hosting counter is 8 feet

chairs were inspired by a design

reproduction Indian batik

element in the stairwell

long. “Because of its size, we

Clarke spotted in Mexico City

quilt with other indigo textiles

gallery wall is the ocean,

went with a wood counter to

and adapted for the beach (and

and a painting by MaryBeth

but the artistic mediums mix

add warmth—sometimes large

kids) with vinyl upholstery.

Thielhelm. “Water is restor-

it up to include paintings,

expanses of stone can come

Reclaimed wood floors are rock

ative,” he says. “It sets the tone

photographs, decorative

of cold,” says Clarke.

solid for handling beach traic.

for a good night’s sleep.”

prints, and stencil drawings.

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

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BEACHY GREENS Above, left: Hardy palms, sage shrubs, and succulents border the swimming pool, which anchors a second-level courtyard overlooking the sand. The funky swirling design in the pool is a mosaic tile pattern.

A COOL SPOT TO RINSE OFF Above, right: “Skylights” in the pool floor stream sunlight into this beach-level grotto lined with river pebbles and outfitted with brass ship lights. “It’s a great spot—you look up and see people swimming around above you,” says Kirkpatrick.

STREET CRED Left: “A beach house like this, in the middle of the action, needs to look like it’s always been there,” says Kirkpatrick, whose team referenced traditional 1930s bungalows and West Indies design features in sketching a plan for the multilevel house.

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

CALIFORNIA COOL Tour more bold, breezy West Coast homes at coastalliving.com/californiahomes

GROOVY DECK FURNITURE The low-profile seating on the thirdfloor deck is genius for preserving the view (the best in the house), and it’s modular. “It can be easily shuled around, depending on the gathering,” says Clarke. The turquoise rug softens and brightens the teak porch flooring, which is set in a large-scale basketweave pattern.

Stephanie Hunt writes home stories, features, and essays from her home near the beach in Charleston.

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november

GOOD STUFF GUIDE HOME 500 COASTAL LIVING COLLECTION

TRAVEL 505 FLORIDA

22

Visit North Carolina

23

Wilmington and Beaches

1

9

Edgewater Beach Condominiums

507 RHODE ISLAND

501 BUILDING

10

Mexico Beach

24

2

Belgard Hardscapes

11

Ponte Vedra Inn & Club

508 SOUTH CAROLINA

3

VELUX Skylights

12

Resorts of Pelican Beach

25

Explore Charleston

502 HOME GOODS

13

Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort

26

Daniel Island, Charleston

4

Circa Lighting

14

VISIT FLORIDA

509 TEXAS

5

LEE Industries

15

Visit Sarasota County

27

6

Sunbrella

16

Visit St. Pete/Clearwater

510 VIRGINIA

Stanley Furniture

506 NORTH CAROLINA REAL ESTATE 503 NORTH CAROLINA

17

Emerald Isle Realty

18

NC’s Brunswick Islands

7

19

Sanderling Resort

504 WASHINGTON

20

The Crystal Coast

8

21

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BOUNTY WhatTo Srve Friends and Family

GATHER

TURKEY DAY TRANSFORMATION

PROP STYLING BY CLAIRE SPOLLEN; FOOD STYLING BY ERIN MERHAR

Turn your Thanksgiving leftovers into an ingenious—and delicious—breakfast

MENU Turkey-and-Gravy Waffle Sandwich with Sunny-Side-Up Egg, p. 90 Harvest Vegetable Frittata, p. 90 Sweet Potato Pancakes, p. 90

Turkey-andGravy Waffle Sandwich with Sunny-Side-Up Egg

Cranberry Breakfast Pastries, p. 92

RE C IP E S BY RO BBY M E LVI N

PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEPHEN DEVRIES

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( GATHER )

Turkey-and-Gravy Waffle Sandwich with Sunny-Side-Up Egg SERVES 6 ACTIVE 40 min.

TOTAL 45 min.

2 2 3 2½ 2½ 1½ ¾ 1½ 1½ ¼ 2 3 8

cups (about 8½ oz.) all-purpose flour Tbsp. thinly sliced chives tsp. granulated sugar tsp. chopped fresh thyme tsp. chopped fresh sage tsp. baking powder tsp. baking soda tsp. kosher salt, divided cups buttermilk cup melted unsalted butter large eggs Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided oz. leftover cooked turkey (white and dark meat) 6 large eggs ½ cup leftover gravy, warmed ½ tsp. black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 200°F. Whisk together flour, chives, sugar, thyme, sage, baking powder, baking soda, and 1 teaspoon of the salt in a medium bowl. Whisk together buttermilk, melted butter, and 2 eggs in a small bowl. Stir buttermilk mixture into flour mixture just until combined.

2. Cook batter, in batches, in a preheated lightly greased wale iron until golden brown, 4 to 5 minutes. Place in a single layer on a baking sheet, and keep warm in preheated oven up to 30 minutes. Repeat process to make 12 wales.

3. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high.

Add turkey, and cook until golden brown and crispy, 5 to 6 minutes. Set aside.

Melt remaining 1 tablespoon butter in skillet. Gently break eggs into skillet; cook 2 minutes. Cover and cook 1 more minute or to desired degree of doneness.

4. Place 1 wale on each of 6 plates.

Top evenly with turkey, gravy, and eggs. Sprinkle with pepper and remaining ½ teaspoon salt. Top with remaining wales.

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COASTAL LIVING November 2016

Harvest Vegetable Frittata

Sweet Potato Pancakes

SERVES 6 ACTIVE 15 min.

TOTAL 30 min.

SERVES 6 ACTIVE 30 min.

TOTAL 30 min.

8 ½ ¾ ¼ 2 ¾ ¾ ¾ ¾ ¾ 2 2 2

large eggs cup whole milk tsp. kosher salt tsp. black pepper oz. Gruyère cheese, shredded (about ½ cup) cup leftover sautéed green beans cup leftover roasted Brussels sprouts cup leftover chopped sautéed or roasted asparagus cup chopped roasted butternut squash cup leftover dressing or stuing Tbsp. chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley Tbsp. thinly sliced fresh chives Tbsp. olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Whisk together eggs, milk, salt, pepper, and Gruyère in a medium bowl. Gently fold in green beans, Brussels sprouts, asparagus, squash, dressing, parsley, and chives.

2. Heat oil in a 10-inch nonstick oven-safe skillet over medium-high. Pour egg mixture into skillet. Stir once, and cook until edges start to pull away from sides of skillet, 5 to 7 minutes.

3. Transfer to preheated oven, and bake until set, 15 to 20 minutes. Slice into wedges; serve immediately.

1½ cups leftover sweet potato casserole (lightly mashed, if needed) 1½ cups whole milk ¼ cup unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing griddle 2 large eggs 1¾ cups (about 7½ oz.) all-purpose flour 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar 1 Tbsp. baking powder ½ tsp. ground cinnamon ½ tsp. kosher salt ¾ cup pure maple syrup ¾ cup toasted pecans

1. Whisk together sweet potato casserole, milk, butter, and eggs in a large bowl. Whisk together flour, brown sugar, baking powder, cinnamon, and salt in a separate bowl.

Gradually stir flour mixture into sweet potato casserole mixture just until dry ingredients are moistened.

2. Pour about ¼ cup batter for each pancake onto a hot, lightly greased griddle or large nonstick skillet over medium. Cook until tops are covered with bubbles and edges look dry and cooked, 2 to 3 minutes. Turn and cook until pufed and cooked through, about 2 minutes. (Cook times will vary. If starting with a very wet sweet potato casserole, increase cook time by 2 minutes.)

3. Serve pancakes immediately with syrup and toasted pecans, or place in a single layer on a baking sheet, and keep warm in a 200°F oven up to 30 minutes. ³

Cranberry Breakfast Pastries, p. 92

November 2016 COASTAL LIVING

91

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( GATHER )

Cranberry Breakfast Pastries SERVES 12 ACTIVE 20 min.

TOTAL 1 hour

2 (14.1-oz.) pkg. refrigerated piecrusts ¾ cup leftover cranberry sauce 1 large egg 1 Tbsp. whole milk 1 cup powdered sugar ½ tsp. orange zest plus 1 to 2 Tbsp. fresh juice (from 1 orange)

1. Preheat oven to 350°F. Place 1 piecrust on a lightly floured surface, and roll into a 12inch circle. Using a 3- x 2½-inch rectangular cutter, cut piecrust into 12 rectangles.

Repeat process with remaining 3 piecrusts to make 48 rectangles.

2. Place 24 dough rectangles 2 inches apart on 2 parchment paper–lined baking sheets.

Top each rectangle with ½ tablespoon cranberry sauce, leaving a ½-inch border. Working 1 at a time, moisten dough edges with water, and top with remaining dough rectangles, pressing edges with a fork to seal.

3. Whisk together egg and milk in a small bowl; brush over tops of pastries. Cut 1 to 2 small X’s in top of each pastry to allow steam to escape while baking.

4. Bake pastries in preheated oven until golden, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer pastries to a wire rack; cool 15 minutes.

5. Stir together powdered sugar, zest, and 1 tablespoon of the orange juice in a small bowl. Stir in orange juice, 1 teaspoon at a time, up to 1 tablespoon, until mixture reaches desired consistency and is smooth.

Drizzle on pastries. Q

92

COASTAL LIVING November 2016

CASSEROLES FOR A CROWD! Don’t want to wait for leftovers? Find our easiest-ever make-ahead breakfast delights at coastalliving.com/breakfast

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BOUNTY

( HOOKED )

CAST IRON COMFORT Our contributing editor celebrates a time-honored pan—and the sea’s bounty—with the ultimate fall recipe

by Barton seaver bring families together this season, we have the opportunity to reflect upon our individual heritage—not only as told through food and time spent around the table, but also through the pots and pans that come to reside in our kitchens. For many of us, that cookware is inherited when we first move out on our own. In my kitchen, few are as special as a third-generation cast iron pan that passed to me via my grandmother, who endured the Depression and came out of it with a will as hard as the pan’s wellseasoned surface.

The beauty of cast iron is not just in its matte exterior; it’s also in what we see reflected in the bottom of the pan. For me, it’s the memory of hot dogs, browned in butter until near crisp, and the sweet smell of molasses and pork fat rising off the back burner, where my grandmother’s New England baked beans sat taking their sweet time.

Cast iron pans are more function than fuss, which is the blessing of such an inheritance—it’s an heirloom that begs to be used, not tucked away on a shelf. The heavily patinated pan gives us as much reason to pause and reflect on life’s blessings as do the soul-satisfying meals prepared within. My cast iron inspires me to think of foods that comfort and warm, and this seafood potpie recipe (see facing page) is one I frequently revisit. While paying homage to the tradition of one-pot meals, this dish also celebrates the sea’s bounty during a season when I find that so many of its oferings are at peak flavor.

A rich, creamy base provides the perfect avenue for the flavors of the seafood and autumn vegetables to meld. What kind of seafood and produce to incorporate is up

94

COASTAL LIVING November 2016

to you, making this dish a choose-yourown-adventure of favorite ingredients. I love to include somewhat nontraditional components—radishes, for a spicy note; fennel, for its floral character; and celery root (also sold as celeriac), for texture.

Because the flaky pastry crust—which can be made up to two days ahead of time—is prepared separately and layered on top,

P H OTO GRAPHS BY STEPHEN DEVR I ES

you can pull this dish together well in advance of your guests’ arrival. When I finally sit down, a cider poured and the cooking done, I take comfort in sharing not only the meal, but also all the joy of the holidays, all the laughter, with family and friends gathered around the table— memories I’ll recall the next time I pull out that cast iron pan.

PROP STYLING BY CLAIRE SPOLLEN; FOOD STYLING BY ERIN MERHAR; ILLUSTRATION BY JOEL KIMMEL

AS C E L E B RATO RY H O L I DAY M E A L S

Seafood Potpie SERVES: 8 | ACTIVE: 45 min. | TOTAL: 2 hours

CRUST 1 cup (8 oz.) cold unsalted butter, cubed 2 cups (8½ oz.) all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar ⅛ tsp. cayenne pepper ½ tsp. kosher salt ½ cup water

FILLING ½ fennel bulb, cut into ½-inch pieces (about 1 cup) 4 carrots, cut into ½-inch pieces (about 1 cup) 4 celery stalks, cut into ½-inch pieces (about 1 cup) ½ celery root, cut into ½-inch pieces (about 1 cup) ½ yellow onion, cut into ½-inch pieces (about 1 cup) 1 lb. baby red potatoes, cut into ½-inch pieces (about 1 cup) 4 thyme sprigs 3 garlic cloves 1 Tbsp. olive oil 2½ tsp. kosher salt, divided 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter 3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour ⅛ tsp. ground mace ¼ tsp. onion powder ¼ tsp. garlic powder 1 bay leaf 3 cups whole milk 1 lb. boneless, skinless grouper, swordfish, or mahimahi fillets, cut into 1½-inch pieces 1 lb. dry-packed sea scallops, halved 1 lb. peeled and deveined mediumsize raw shrimp 1 tsp. smoked paprika 2 Tbsp. sherry ¼ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. Prepare the crust: Toss together 1 cup cubed butter and 2 cups flour in a large bowl until butter is coated in flour; transfer coated butter and flour to a food processor. Add sugar, cayenne pepper, and ½ teaspoon salt; process until large clumps form, about 20 seconds. Slowly add up to ½ cup water, 1 tablespoon at time, while pulsing, adding just enough water to form a dough. Using hands, shape into a loose ball. Dust dough with flour, wrap in plastic wrap, and chill 1 hour or up to 2 days.

2. Preheat oven to 400°F. Unwrap dough, and turn out onto a lightly floured surface.

Roll to ¼-inch thickness, and cut out a 12-inch circle. Transfer dough circle to a baking sheet, and bake in preheated oven until golden brown, about 20 minutes.

3. Prepare the filling: Toss together fennel, carrots, celery, celery root, onion, potatoes, thyme, garlic, and olive oil in a large bowl. Add ½ teaspoon of the salt; toss lightly. Spread vegetables in a single layer on a baking sheet, and bake at 400°F until cooked through, about 20 minutes.

Discard thyme sprigs and garlic cloves.

4. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a 12-inch straight-sided skillet over medium; whisk in 3 tablespoons flour. Cook, whisking constantly, until fragrant and the roux takes on a blonde color, about 3 minutes. Add mace, onion powder, garlic powder, bay leaf, and 1 teaspoon of the salt. Gradually whisk in milk. Reduce heat to low, and cook until thickened, about 15 minutes.

WHAT TO DRINK HARD CIDER Considered “America’s drink,” hard cider is enjoying a surge in popularity, with delicious local ciders popping up all over the country. Here are some favorites.

Bantam (Somerville, MA; bantamcider.com), Downeast Cider House (Boston; downeast cider.com), Portland Cider Co. (Portland, OR; portlandcider .com), Potter’s (Free Union, VA; potterscraftcider.com), Urban Farm Fermentory (Portland, ME; fermentory.com)

5. Sprinkle fish, scallops, and shrimp with remaining 1 teaspoon salt, and let stand 5 minutes. Gently stir seafood, vegetables, and smoked paprika into sauce mixture in skillet, and cook until fish is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Discard bay leaf. Stir in sherry; sprinkle parsley over mixture. Place the crust over the pot, trim with kitchen shears, and serve. Q

BARTON SEAVER is a chef, sustainable seafood expert, and National Geographic Explorer, and is the author of several books, including For Cod and Country and Two if by Sea.

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COASTAL LIVING

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SOURCES

BRASS PINEAPPLES page 30: Marquesas Fabric in Pistache, Raoul Textiles; raoultextiles.com. Vintage bamboo chest, Tricia’s Treasures; 205/871-9779. Cocktail pick set, Sergeant Sailor; etsy.com/shop/sergeantsailor. Centerpiece, vases, tiered stand, and containers, Judy’s Junktion; etsy.com/shop/judysjunktion.

Containers from Indulgence Décor, GRAY + GOLD, The Silver Oyster, Erin Rodriguez, and Fig House Vintage; chairish.com.

GEORGIA ISLE REVIVAL page 62: Interior design, Kevin Isbell, Kevin Isbell Interiors; kevinisbell.com. Architectural design, Thad Truett, Thomas Thaddeus Truett Architect; tttarch.com. Builder, Evans & Varnadoe Construction. Landscape design, Alex Smith, Alex Smith Garden Design, Ltd.; alexsmithgardendesign.com.

Living room, page 62: Trim in White Dove, Benjamin Moore; benjaminmoore.com. Vintage mirror, Jarontiques, jarontiques .com. Vintage porter’s chair and garden stool, Hiden Galleries; hidengalleries.com. Chair fabric, Arabel Fabrics; arabelfabrics .com. Drapery fabric, Robert Allen Design; robertallendesign .com. Table, Hamptons Antique Galleries and Decorative Arts; hamptonsantiquegalleries.com. Rug, Beauvais Carpets; beauvais carpets.com. Pillow, Elizabeth Eakins; elizabetheakins.com. Lamp, Antique & Artisan Center; theantiqueandartisangallery.com.

Basket and purple vase, NANCY; nancyssi.com. Exterior, page 63: Trim in Blue Ground, Farrow & Ball; farrow-ball.com. Chaises, Frontgate; frontgate.com. Entry, page 64: Doors in Blue Ground, Farrow & Ball. Ceiling in Constellation Blue, Benjamin Moore.

Vintage chandelier, Vidals Antiques Corp.; 212/838-9179. Vintage consoles, Greenwich Living Antiques & Design Centre; greenwich livingantique.com. Mirror and ottoman, Antique & Artisan Center.

Lamp, Gris New York; 518/380-2922. Bamboo chair, Hamptons Antique Galleries and Decorative Arts. Cushion fabric, Arabel Fabrics. Rug, Beauvais Carpets. Stool fabric, Donghia Textiles; donghia.com. Breakfast nook, page 65: Kitchen cabinets in White Dove, Benjamin Moore. Chandelier, Antique and Artisan Center. Side chairs, Walters Wicker; walterswicker.com. Chair/ banquette fabric, Designtex; designtex.com. Banquette, Luther Quintana Upholstery; lqupholstery.com. Patterned banquette fabric, Galbraith & Paul; galbraithandpaul.com. Table, Design Within Reach; dwr.com. Georgia pillow, NANCY. Coastal Light by Sheila Finch; sheilafinchfineart.com. Botanical watercolors framed by APF Master Framers; 212/223-0726. Dishes on wall, John Derian; johnderian.com. Kitchen stools, Serena & Lily.

Custom cabinets/island, Thad Truett. Sunroom, page 65: Walls in Fresh Air, Benjamin Moore. Vintage chandelier, Nicholas Antiques; nicholasantiques.com. Rug, Beauvais Carpets. Custom sofa, Kevin Isbell Interiors. Sofa fabric, Brunschwig and Fils; brunschwig.com. Cofee table, Horseman Antiques; horseman antiques.net. Green pillow fabric, Osborne & Little; osborneand little.com. Patterned sofa pillow fabric, Robert Allen. Armchairs, Walters Wicker. Armchair fabric, Arabel Fabrics. Vintage chest, Flair Home Collection New York; flairhomecollection.com. Vintage end table, Antique and Artisan Center. Pool house living room, page 66: Walls and ceiling in White Dove, Benjamin Moore. Drapery fabric, Perennials Fabrics. Silk drapery tape, Samuel & Sons Passementerie; samuelandsons.com. Sofa, Luther

Quintana Upholstery. Sofa fabric, John Rosselli & Associates; johnrosselli.com. Sofa border, Samuel & Sons Passementerie.

Rug, Beauvais Carpets. Vintage lamps, Hamptons Antique Galleries and Decorative Arts. Vintage end tables, Kent Home; kenthomechappaqua.com. Cocktail table, Heritage Home Group; heritagehome.com. Spoonback chair, Greenwich Living. Chair fabric, Giati Designs; giati.com. Tufted stool, Hiden Galleries.

Woven armchair, Walters Wicker. Armchair, stool, and sofa pillow fabric, China Seas; quadrillefabrics.com. Garden stool, Mecox Gardens; mecox.com. Vintage botanicals framed by APF Master Framers. Girls’ bedroom, page 66: Beds, Pottery Barn; pottery barn.com. Drum shade, Robert Abbey, Inc.; robertabbey.biz. Rug, Beauvais Carpets. Armchair and pillow fabric, Arabel Fabrics.

Trunks, The Land of Nod; landofnod.com. Bedspreads, Serena & Lily. Shams and sheets, Frette; frette.com. Pillows and drapery fabric, Robert Allen Design. Desk chair fabric, Elizabeth Eakins.

Reading light, Circa Lighting. Lamp, Hamptons Antique Galleries and Decorative Arts. Vintage desk, Hiden Galleries. Wicker armchair, vintage. Mudroom, page 66: Walls in Nantucket Fog, Benjamin Moore. Console, Mecox Gardens. Vintage Lamp, Hiden Galleries. Basket, NANCY. Rug, Dash & Albert. Pool house bedroom, page 67: Vintage headboard and desk, Hamptons Antique Galleries and Decorative Arts. Rug, Beauvais Carpets. Drapery fabric, Arabel Fabrics. Trim, Fabricut. Vintage lamp, Harbor View Antiques; harborviewantiques.com. Custom lamp shade, Blanche Field; blanchefield.com. Chair, AllModern; allmodern.com.

BEACHFRONT BRILLIANT! page 76: Interior design, Tim Clarke, Tim Clarke Design, Inc.; timclarkedesign.com. Architecture, Grant C. Kirkpatrick (kaadesigngroup.com) and Erik Evens (evensarc .com). Builder, JD Group, Inc.; jdgroupinc.com. Landscape design, Art Luna, Art Luna Garden; artlunagarden.com. Ceilings throughout in Swiss Cofee, Dunn-Edwards Paints; dunnedwards .com. Exterior, page 76–77: Doors, shutters, and windows, Custom Window Design, Inc.; customwindowdoors.com. Living room, page 78: Sofas, Tim Clarke Design. Sofa fabric, Rose Tarlow; rosetarlow.com. Pillows, Tower 20; timclarkedesign.com.

Armchairs, George Smith; georgesmith.com. Console table, Rooms & Gardens; roomsandgardens.com. Cofee table, Lucca Antiques; luccaantiques.com. Rugs, Mansour; mansour.com. Side table, Bunny Williams Home; bunnywilliamshome.com. Vintage floor lamp, Hollyhock; hollyhockinc.com. Entry hall, page 78: Sconce, Circa Lighting. Courtyard, page 79: Chair, cushion, and pillow fabrics, Perennials Fabrics; perennialsfabrics.com. Table, Summit Furniture; summitfurniture.com. Armchairs, JANUS et Cie; janusetcie.com. Dining room, page 80: Table, Tim Clarke Design. Chairs, Tower 20. Cushion fabric, Rose Tarlow. Pendant light, Paul Ferrante; paulferrante.com. Glassware, Sur La Table; surlatable.com. Kitchen, page 81: Backsplash, Ann Sacks; ann sacks.com. Pendant lights, Charles Edwards; charlesedwards .com. Stools, Tim Clarke Design. Sink hardware, Waterworks; waterworks.com. Range, Wolf; subzero-wolf.com. Breakfast nook, page 81: Window shades, Window Collections; window collections.com. Table and vintage chandelier, Tim Clarke Design.

Chairs, Tower 20. Master bedroom, page 81: Fusion Series collages by Cecil Touchon and Gossamer Sage Sea by MaryBeth Thielhelm, Sears-Peyton Gallery; searspeyton.com. Bed, Michael S Smith, Inc.; michaelsmithinc.com. Quilt, John Robshaw Textiles; johnrobshaw.com. Rug, Decorative Carpets; decorativecarpets .com. Red/white pillows, Peter Dunham; hollywoodathome.com.

Side table and antique dresser, JF Chen; jfchen.com. Lamps, Christopher Spitzmiller, Inc.; christopherspitzmiller.com. Custom trunk TV lift, Tim Clarke Design. Vent grilles, Reggio Registers; reggioregisters.com. Gallery wall, page 81: Photo (top, left) by Noah Webb; noahwebb.com. Artwork (center, left) by Clay Wagstaf, Sears-Peyton Gallery. Sconces, Circa Lighting. Shower, page 82: Teak benches, Frontgate; frontgate.com. Stone shower walls, Exquisite Surfaces; xsurfaces.com. Limestone floor tiles, Classic Tile and Flooring; classictileflooring.com. Hardware, Waterworks. Lighting, Urban Archaeology; urbanarchaeology .com. Towels, Missoni; missoni.com. Porch, page 83: Sofa, table, and chairs, Sutherland Furniture; sutherlandfurniture.com. Sofa and chair fabric, Perennials Fabrics. Pendant light, Antiques of the Sea; antiquesofthesea.com. Rug, Lawrence of La Brea; lawrenceoflabrea.com. Pots, Inner Gardens; innergardens.com.

COASTAL LIVING November 2016

Create your own island revival retreat (page 62) with these inspired finds in our Wayfair boutique

Page 66: World Menagerie Niebuhr Garden Stool, $197; wayfair.com/ coastalbluegardenstool

Page 62: Astoria Grand Palmetto Bluf Wall Mirror, $158; wayfair.com/coastalsunburstmirror

NAME THIS DRINK! Compete for beach house bragging rights! 1. Go to coastalliving.com/ namethisdrink anytime from October 13 until November 9, 2016. 2. Suggest a fun, creative, and evocative name for the recipe on page 6. 3. Explain the name in a sentence or two (50 words or less).

4. The winning recipe name (and your name, if you wish) will be printed in an upcoming issue of Coastal Living!

COASTAL LIVING (ISSN 10971165) is published 10 times a year (February, March, April, May, June, July/Aug, September, October, November, December) by Time Inc. Lifestyle Group, 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Birmingham, AL 35209. Volume 20, Issue 9. PRINTED IN THE USA. Periodicals postage paid at Birmingham, AL, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.) Non-Postal and Military Facilities: Send address corrections to Coastal Living Magazine, PO BOX 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40110178. Return undeliverable Canada address to: Postal Stn A, PO Box 4015, Toronto, ON M5W2T2. GST#81996300RT0001. Title “Coastal Living” is a trademark of Time Inc. Lifestyle Group. © 2016 Time Inc. Lifestyle Group. COASTAL LIVING cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material. U.S. subscriptions: $20 for one year.

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SHOP THE LOOK

Page 64: Jefan Winston Arm Chair, $310; wayfair.com/ coastalrattanarmchair

COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS (3)

CARMEL CRUSH page 24: Interior design, Noelle Micek Interiors; noellemicekinteriors.com. Builder, Harlan Bradley, Masterwork Builders; masterworkbuilders.com. Living room, pages 24–25: Ceilings throughout in Natural Cream, Benjamin Moore; benjamin moore.com. Bernard Thorp armchair and sofa pillow fabric, Stark Fabric; starkcarpet.com. Armchair slipcover and striped sofa pillow fabric, Perennials Fabrics; perennialsfabrics.com.

Sofa, Precedent Furniture; precedent-furniture.com. Sofa fabric, Sunbrella Fabrics; sunbrella.com. Patterned coral sofa pillow fabric, Schumacher; fschumacher.com. Cofee table, Kathy Kuo Home; kathykuohome.com. Basket and artwork, HomeGoods; homegoods.com. Sconces, The Urban Electric Company; urban electricco.com. Roman shades, Colefax & Fowler; colefax.com.

Small artwork by Annie Seaton, Minted; minted.com. Exterior, page 26: Siding in Chelsea Gray and trim in Swiss Cofee, Benjamin Moore. Kitchen, page 26: Cashmere island, Noelle Micek Interiors and Mellors Fine Woodworking; mellors.biz.

Carrara marble countertops, M S International, Inc.; msistone .com. Backsplash, Siena Tile & Stone; sienatileandstone.com.

Flooring, The Garrison Collection; thegarrisoncollection.com.

Rug, Jaipur Living; jaipurliving.com. Barstool, Serena & Lily; serenaandlily.com. Sink, Kohler; us.kohler.com. Sink hardware, ROHL Home; rohlhome.com. Range and hood, Thermador; thermador.com. Cabinet/drawer pulls, Emtek; emtek.com.

Breakfast nook, page 26: Walls in Natural Cream, Benjamin Moore. Table, Tritter Feefer; tritterfeefer.com. Bench fabric, Jo-Ann Fabric and Craft Stores; joann.com. Bernard Thorp blue/white pillow fabric, Stark Fabric. Chandelier, Made Goods; madegoods.com. Coral pillow fabric, Perennials Fabrics. Zinc/ iron stair railing, custom. Bunkroom, page 27: Bunkbeds/ headboards, Mellors Fine Woodworking. Sconces, Circa Lighting; circalighting.com. Duvets, Macy’s; macys.com. Tassel throws, Plus Olive; plusolive.com. Striped pillow fabric, Osborne & Little; osborneandlittle.com. Diamond pillow fabric, Pindler & Pindler; pindler.com. Chandelier, Restoration Hardware; rh.com. Rug, Stark Carpet. Guest room, page 28: Bed, Serena & Lily. Drapery fabric, Fabricut; fabricut.com. Window seat fabric, Duralee; duralee.com. White pillow fabric, Perennials Fabrics. Blue pillow fabric, Sister Parish Design; sisterparishdesign.com. Coral pillow fabric, Victoria Hagan; victoriahagan.com. Duvet, Macy’s. Side table, Palecek; palecek.com. Porch, page 28: Rug, Rugs USA; rugsusa.com. Lanterns, Target; target.com.

UNITED STATES POSTAL SERVICE 2016 STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP, MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION 1. Publication Title: COASTAL LIVING 2. Publication Number: 16079 3. Filing Date: October 1, 2016 4. Issue Frequency: Monthly Except July/Aug and Jan/Feb 5. Number of Issues Published Annually:10 6. Annual Subscription Price: $20.00 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 4100 Old Montgomery Hwy., Homewood, AL 35209 8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: 4100 Old Montgomery Hwy., Homewood, AL 35209 9. Full Name and Complete Mailing Address of the Publisher, Chief Content Officer, Editorial Director: Publisher: Time Inc., 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281-1008; Rich Battista, President & CEO Chief Content Officer: Alan Murray, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281-1008 Editorial Director: Nathan Lump, 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281-1008 10. Owner: The owner is Time Inc. Lifestyle Group, 4100 Old Montgomery Hwy., Homewood, AL 35209, which is a direct wholly-owned subsidiary of Southern Progress Corporation, 4100 Old Montgomery Hwy., Homewood, AL 35209, an indirect wholly-owned subsidiary of Time Inc., 225 Liberty St., New York, NY 10281.

11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent or More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Securities To the best knowledge of Time Inc., the names and addresses of stockholders beneficially owning 1 percent or more of the common stock of Time Inc. as of June 30, 2016 (according to 13F filings with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission) are as follows: Fairpointe Capital, LLC, One N. Franklin, #3300, Chicago, Illinois 60606 BlackRock Fund Advisors, 400 Howard St., San Francisco, California 94105-2228 The Vanguard Group, Inc., 100 Vanguard Blvd., Malvern, Pennsylvania 19355 JANA Partners, LLC, 767 Fifth Ave., Suite 800, New York, New York 10153 Westwood Management Corporation (Texas), 200 Crescent Ct., #1200, Dallas, Texas 75201 J.P. Morgan Investment Management, Inc., 270 Park Ave., 8th Fl., New York, New York 10017 State Street Global Advisors (SSgA), One Lincoln St., 27th Fl., Boston, Massachusetts 02111-2900 Dimensional Fund Advisors, L.P. (U.S.), Palisades W., Bldg. One, 6300 Bee Cave Rd., Austin, Texas 78746 Schroder Investment Management, LTD, 31 Gresham Street, London, UK EC2V 7QA Norges Bank Investment Management (Norway), BANKPLASSEN 2, P.O. BOX 1179 SENTRUM, Oslo, Norway NO-0107 NFJ Investment Group, LLC, 2100 Ross Ave., Suite 700, Dallas, Texas 75201 Thrivent Asset Management, LLC, 625 Fourth Ave. S., Minneapolis, Minnesota 55415-1624 Northern Trust Investments, Inc., 50 S. LaSalle St., 4th Fl., Chicago, Illinois 60603 Quantitative Management Associates, LLC, 751 Broad St., Newark, New Jersey 07102 Keeley Asset Management Corporation, 111 W. Jackson Blvd., #810, Chicago, Illinois 60604 Fidelity Management & Research Company, 245 Summer St., Boston, Massachusetts 02210 The Boston Company Asset Management, LLC, 1 Boston Place, Suite 2600, Boston, Massachusetts 02108 Renaissance Technologies, LLC, 800 Third Ave., New York, New York 10022 TCW Investment Management Company, 865 South Figueroa St., Suite 1800, Los Angeles, California 90017 Investec Asset Management, LTD (U.K.), Woolgate Exchange, 4th Fl., 25 Basinghall St., London, UK EC2V 5HA __________________ 12. Not Applicable 13. Publication Title: Coastal Living 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: September 1, 2016 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months a. Total Number of Copies: 736,371 b. Paid Circulation 1. Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 504,408 2. Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 0 3. Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS: 43,139 4. Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS: 0 c. Total Paid Distribution: 547,547 d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: 1. Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541: 127,391 2. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541: 0 3. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS: 0 4. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail: 5,295 e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: 132,686 f. Total Distribution: 680,233 g. Copies Not Distributed: 56,138 h. Total: 736,371 i. Percent Paid: 80.5% Number of Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date September 1, 2016 a. Total Number of Copies: 722,848 b. Paid Circulation 1. Mailed Outside-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 496,189 2. Mailed In-County Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541: 0 3. Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS: 43,149 4. Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS: 0 c. Total Paid Distribution: 539,338 d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: 1. Free or Nominal Rate Outside-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541: 125,908 2. Free or Nominal Rate In-County Copies Included on PS Form 3541: 0 3. Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS: 0 4. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail: 4,637 e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: 130,545 f. Total Distribution: 669,883 g. Copies Not Distributed: 52,965 h. Total: 722,848 i. Percent Paid: 80.5% 16. Publication of Statement of Ownership will be printed in the November 2016 issue of this publication.

17. Signature and date: Maria Beckett, 9/14/16

I AM SIX TIMES LESS LIKELY TO BECOME A CHILD BRIDE. Globally, 62 million girls are not in school and even more are fighting to stay there.

Girls empowered with an education will delay marriage, have fewer children, earn a higher income, and are more likely to invest in their families and communities.

When girls gain skills, knowledge, and confidence, they break the cycle of poverty and help strengthen societies.

EDUCATE GIRLS, CHANGE THE WORLD.

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( BEACH READ )

CHANGING TIDES A city-dwelling writer finds enchantment anew in the rhythms of the sea BY A M Y S H E A R N took our kids to Cape Cod, we stopped at the realty office to pick up the keys to our rental house, dusty and disoriented from having fought traffic all the way from New York City in an ancient Subaru. “Here,” said the weather-beaten, Melvillean fellow in charge, handing us what looked like a timetable for a mysterious mode of public transit. “The tides.”

“Oh!” I said. Not wanting to look silly to the agent, being the salty sailor type he was, I nodded. “Of course! The tides!” I had no idea what he was talking about.

My family and I, we are city people. My preschooler son knew every subway line before he could spell his name. Spending a night in the suburbs, my 6-year-old daughter couldn’t sleep because it was dark and quiet, conditions she deemed “creepy.” My husband sufers an acute fear of forests, which he is certain are filled with bloodthirsty woodsmen. So while I thought a week on Cape Cod would be THE FIRST TIME MY HUSBAND AND I

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good for us, I admit we spent our first few days confused. It turns out that going to the beach on Cape Cod is quite unlike going to the beach at, say, Coney Island, where you can arrive at any moment and be greeted with a static strip of shore, a Nathan’s hot dog, and a Speedo-clad man walking a pit bull wearing sunglasses.

Cape Cod beaches, on the other hand, are complex, as ever-changing as the sartorial caprices of Manhattanites. The archaic-looking tides chart was in fact the key to a happy week at the Cape. We learned that high tide is when the shore is a familiar entity, a length of brown sand next to blue water, the way a child would draw a beach. We would splash in the icy Atlantic. Then we’d take a break on the shore, that sunny place where bright towels marked each family’s territory.

What seemed like just a few moments later, we’d find that low tide had transformed the landscape. The ocean had snuck away, leaving an expanse of gloppy

ILLU STRAT I ON BY SA R A H WI LKI N S

something—neither exactly land nor sea— punctuated with tide pools full of foamy water and hermit crabs. The pools seemed to hypnotize the children into wading around, befriending experienced Cape Codders capable of trapping crabs with a single swoop. (So that’s why everyone had those nets!) To me, low tide was an invitation to stroll, to walk toward the expanding horizon, contemplating infinity.

I have visited a few places that seem like other planets, and I love the shock of them, the way these landscapes are hard to understand, impossible to put into context, the way they make me think about the Earth itself, which, as a citydweller, I often forget to do. The lunar terrain of the American Southwest is one of them; I was delighted to realize that Cape Cod at low tide is another.

After a few days of this tide-tracking, my daughter began peppering us with questions: Why is the tide at a diferent time each day? What is a neap tide? What do the hermit crabs do at high tide? In explaining my sketchily remembered and smartphone-enhanced knowledge of lunar gravity, I realized I was remembering some primal understanding I once had, slowing down enough to think about our life on our planet.

Then, at the end of our vacation, my son asked a particularly telling question. From the backseat, as we drove toward our brick apartment building: “Does the moon live in Massachusetts?”

My answer was something like, “Actually, the moon lives in outer space, and it’s always there. Sometimes you can’t see it from our window, but it’s there. We’re all part of the same world, Cape Cod and New York and all of it.”

He frowned, dubious. I can’t blame him. It doesn’t seem likely, in our everyday concrete lives, that we, too, live on a sphere in space, controlled by invisible, heavenly forces. Which is why we go back every year to Cape Cod, where the mutable shore reminds us.

Amy Shearn is the author of the novels The Mermaid of Brooklyn and How Far is the Ocean from Here. She lives in Brooklyn.

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