Coastal Living - December 2017

Hawaii for the Holidays (AND HOW TO LIVE ALOHA YEAR-ROUND)

LĪHU‘E, HAWAI‘I

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THE ULTIMATE ISLAND GUIDE

DECEMBER 2017

BEST MAI TAIS, SECRET BEACHES & DREAMY RESORTS

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C RYS TA L

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JULIEN CAPMEIL; COVER SHOT ON LOCATION AT THE OCEAN COURSE AT HOKUALA, TIMBERS KAUAI; MODEL: MOANI HARA FOR PREMIER MODELING; HAIR AND MAKEUP: STEPHANIE BOND; VW BUS: THE HAWAIIAN PHOTO BUS

COASTAL LIVING

DECEMBER 2017 pg. 62

Currents 13 The Best of the Coast This Month A guide to gifting, Hawai‘i style, curated by local artisans with styles ranging from surfer-chic to adventureready—plus editors’ picks for even more great gifts

Havens 23 Color Theory Green gets a glam boost in dazzling shades of emerald.

26 Collecting The aloha shirt— mainstay of casual Fridays— does double duty as wall art.

29 Seaside Design A Big Island build channels summer-camp vibes with a compound of rustic structures designed in response to the landscape.

Navigator 35 The Guide An insider handbook to visiting six of the Aloha State’s glorious isles

Bounty 81 Gather Hors d’oeuvres go tropical with bright flavors that bring the islands to any bash.

88 Foodways A worldroaming chef settles down in Honolulu, where her brunch spot has even the sleepiest night owls waking up early.

IN EVERY ISSUE Cocktail of the Month 6 Editor’s Letter 8 Beach Dogs 10 Sources 95 Keepsake 96

48

50

54

62

70

Coastal 20: Tiki Drinks Make it a tropical holiday toast this year with the most flavorful, cheerful cocktails around (paper umbrellas included).

The Home of Hula Trace the history of this iconic tradition—and the dedicated dancers who are preserving it—from its Polynesian roots to present day.

Surfer’s Paradise A passionate kitesurfer and a designer with classic leanings overhaul a midcentury bungalow to bring back its authentic island character.

The Return of Polynesian Pop The tiki-tastic movement that took the United States by storm decades ago lives on in Honolulu, where new spots honor original ones.

Taste of Hawai‘i There’s more to the islands’ culinary side than poke and Spam: Meet the chefs, dishes, spices, and more that make eating here unlike anywhere else.

O N T H E COV E R : P H OTO GRAP H BY JULIE N CA PMEI L

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

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FlexWash™

One Machine.

Two Washers.

FlexDry™

One Machine.

Two Dryers.

© 2017 Samsung Electronics America, Inc.

PRESIDENT & CEO

Rich Battista Alan Murray

CHIEF CONTENT OFFICER

Cocktail of the Month Place 1 coconut in a nest of aluminum foil (to keep it from rolling) on a rimmed baking sheet. Find the 2 eyes that are identical and the line that runs between them. Position a cleaver or other large sharp knife perpendicular to that line in the middle of the coconut. Using a rubber mallet, tap the cleaver through the coconut, splitting it in half. Place halves over a bowl, and reserve coconut liquid from each. Pour coconut liquid through a wire-mesh strainer into another bowl, reserving enough coconut water to equal ¼ cup.

Nathan Lump SENIOR DIRECTOR, EDIT OPERATIONS Clare McHugh EDITORIAL OPERATIONS/FINANCE DIRECTOR George Kimmerling EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

E DITO R Steele Thomas Marcoux Tempy Segrest DEPUTY EDITOR Katie Finley ASSISTANT MANAGING EDITOR Mamie Walling

DESIGN DIRECTOR

ART & PHOTOGRAPHY

Emily Johnson Julia Ludlam

ART DIRECTOR DESIGNER

SENIOR ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR PHOTO ASSISTANT

Lindsey Stone

Ashley Thomas

DIGITAL

Susan Hall Mahon Marisa Spyker Chandler Stroman

DIGITAL CONTENT MANAGER

Combine 3 Tbsp. pineapple juice, 2 Tbsp. (1 oz.) Żubrówka vodka, 1 Tbsp. (½ oz.) white rum, 1 Tbsp. coconut cream, ½ cup ice, and reserved coconut water in a blender, and process on high until ice is crushed and mixture is foamy. Divide mixture evenly among the coconut halves, and add 1 tsp. grenadine to each cocktail. Serves 2.

SENIOR ASSOCIATE HOMES EDITOR ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR

TI M E I N C .

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Ann Gobel Kim Krubeck BRAND SALES DIRECTORS Holly Belk, Alisa Boone, Kate Brower, Kim Skipper, Bill Syrett GROUP DIRECTOR Melinda Sheehan ACCOUNT DIRECTOR Hoke Carter VP, LIFESTYLE

VP, BRAND SALES DIRECTOR

CATEG O RY SALE S

Lauren Newman ENTERTAINMENT Ellie Duque FASHION & RETAIL Kevin Martinez FINANCE Mike Schneider HEALTHCARE Heidi Anderson HOME Kim Krubeck FOOD/BEVERAGE/SPIRITS David Gensler INDUSTRY/GOVERNMENT/TOBACCO/GOLF Nate Stamos TECHNOLOGY/TELECOMMUNICATIONS Scott Kelliher TRAVEL Jay Meyer BEAUTY

SALES OPERATIONS

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SALE S S U P P O RT

Tess Cochrane, Jade Jones, Julie Segovia, India Tibbetts MAR K E TI N G

Susan Parkes VP, BRAND MARKETING, LIFESTYLE & LUXURY Vildia Samaniego VP, BRAND MARKETING, LIFESTYLE & SHELTER Jennifer Staiman DIRECTOR, BRAND MARKETING Claire Stevick VP S , CLIENT SOLUTIONS Ronak Patel, Rob Stephen VP, ACTIVATION Meg Doperak-Miglionico VP, STRATEGY & INSIGHTS Caryn Klein VP, TRADE MARKETING Steven Cambron ASSOCIATE HOMES DIRECTOR Nicole Hendrick SENIOR MANAGER Emily Boehling MANAGER Kayla Gambino SVP, ADVERTISING & BRAND MARKETING

CO N S U M E R MAR K E TI N G SVP S Chris Gaydos, Beth Gorry VP S Ann Marie Doherty, Melissa Mahoney, Shari Pessah, Karan Simoneau DIRECTORS Alexis Matte, Jennifer Schiele, Tricia Williams SENIOR MARKETING MANAGER Caroline Boron MARKETING MANAGERS Melissa Kross, Katie Pisano ASSISTANT MARKETING MANAGER Chris Lynes

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VP AND GENERAL MANAGER

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FI NAN CE

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GLOBAL TECHNOLOGY SERVICES

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NAME THIS DRINK!

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OCTOBER 2017

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For change of address, payment, and other subscription questions, call 888/252-3529 or visit coastalliving.com/ customerservice. REPRINTS For logo licensing, permissions, and reprints, call The YGS Group at 800/501-9571, ext. 2332, or e-mail coastalliving@theygsgroup.com. EDITORIAL OFFICE If you have questions or comments, e-mail letters@coastalliving.com or write to 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Birmingham, AL 35209.

COASTAL LIVING December 2017

Agave Marie!

“Urban legend says that Marie means ‘sea of bitterness,’ ” says Chambers. Combine that with the main ingredient in mezcal and you have this clever name for our smoky boulevardier.

GREG DUPREE/PROP STYLING BY MINDI SHAPIRO LEVINE/FOOD STYLING BY EMILY NABORS HALL/RECIPE BY ADAM DOLGE; INSET: GREG DUPREE/PROP STYLING BY MINDI SHAPIRO LEVINE/FOOD STYLING BY MARGARET MONROE DICKEY

EDITORIAL

Lindsey Ellis Beatty SENIOR EDITOR, HOMES Ellen McGauley SENIOR EDITOR, TRAVEL Tracey Minkin FOOD & WINE EDITOR Chris Hughes STYLE EDITOR Rachael Burrow ASSISTANT EDITOR Lauren Phillips FELLOWS Taylor Eisenhauer, Mary Tomlinson STYLE DIRECTOR

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is of walking around the rim of a volcano. I was on Maui with my family, and we’d gotten up before sunrise and driven for what seemed like half a day to reach the Haleakalā National Park visitor center. Some 30 years later, our pilgrimage to this sacred place exists in my mind like a stack of blurry photographs scattered across a table, out of chronological order. The “snapshots” show packed ridges of red and black dirt that seem to float above the clouds, a secret swimming hole at the base of a waterfall surrounded by lush jungle foliage, the state-park beach where we pulled ONE OF MY FIRST MEMORIES

over to have a picnic and watch the surfers—I think I can see a faded rainbow in this one— and a McDonald’s drive-through where we stopped for coffee and hotcakes. I remember how confused I was to be so far from my East Coast home, surrounded by scenery that felt otherworldly in every way, only to pull over at the Golden Arches for a quick bite.

Now, 58 years into its statehood, Hawai‘i remains the ultimate picture of paradise, filtered through a mystical and dream-like lens to many Americans in the Lower 48— even as our relationship with this beautiful place and its equally beautiful people has at times been anything but idyllic. Our fascination with the islands is growing: According to the Hawai‘i Tourism Authority, tourist arrivals are up 4.7 percent over 2016 through the first eight months of this year, putting 2017 on track to be the sixth consecutive year to post growth.

In this Hawai‘i issue (our second-annual destination issue), we strived to create a celebration of our 50th state that’s true to the indomitable spirit of its people, with

stories about its dreamy home design (escape into year-round outdoor living on p. 29 and p. 54); its unparalleled natural beauty (discover the islands’ most secret spots, p. 35); its diverse foodways (get a taste on p. 70); its seductive, albeit complicated, status in popular culture (take a nostalgia-fueled trip through Honolulu’s colorful history on p. 62); and its peaceful, spiritual ethos (marvel at the magic of hula on p. 50). I am inspired by my colleagues’ passion, curiosity, and commitment to detail in their work on this issue, and grateful for help and guidance from so many new Hawaiian friends. Now more than ever it is essential for us to not only recognize but revel in what makes each of us unique—and all of us distinctly American.

Happy Holidays!

STEELE THOMAS MARCOUX, EDITOR steele@coastalliving.com; @steelemarcoux

COTTAGE CRUSH: OUR FAVORITE BEACH HOUSE RENTALS IN HAWAII

Here are a dozen charming ways to fall in love with the Aloha State (as if we needed any more!)

THE BIG ISLAND airbnb.com

THE BIG ISLAND airbnb.com

O‘AHU

O‘AHU

evrhi.com

airbnb.com

THE BIG ISLAND airbnb.com

O‘AHU

airbnb.com

KAUA‘I

vrbo.com

MAUI

boutique-homes.com

KAUA‘I

vacations.hawaiilife.com

MAUI

airbnb.com

To book a stay at any of these happy little Hawaiian hideaways, visit coastalliving.com/hawaiirentals

8

COASTAL LIVING December 2017

KAUA‘I

vrbo.com

MAUI

kidandcoe.com

PORTRAIT: LAUREY W. GLENN; COTTAGES, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: COURTESY OF AIRBNB (3), COURTESY OF LANNIE BOESIGER, COURTESY OF HAWAII LIFE VACATIONS, COURTESY OF LANNIE BOESIGER, COURTESY OF AIRBNB (3), COURTESY OF BOUTIQUEHOMES, COURTESY OF AIRBNB, COURTESY OF KID & COE

EDITOR’S LETTER

Please enjoy our wines responsibly. © 2017 Meiomi Wines, Acampo, CA

Remarkably balanced.

Distinctively smooth.

All lead to the great coastal taste of Meiomi.

Discover more at Meiomi.com

BEACH DOGS

READER PET OF THE MONTH

The Perfect Howl-iday Treats

Meet Roxie

Oatmeal, spice and everything nice

FROM STREET LIFE TO ISLAND LIFE

LONG JOURNEY TO PARADISE

Roxie and owner Rebecca Ferguson first met in Atlanta, Georgia, where the Dalmatian/blue heeler mix was found, alone, in the yard of one of Ferguson’s friends. Ferguson agreed to host Roxie for a weekend, and the two have been together ever since, moving from Georgia to California to Hawai‘i.

Getting Roxie to her current home on Kaua‘i was no small feat: The islands are rabies-free, and to keep them that way, Hawai‘i enforces a strict quarantine law for all animals. Once Roxie was cleared, though, the ordeal was forgotten. “It’s so dog-friendly once you get here,” Ferguson says.

TROPICAL TREASURES

Made with healthy, wholesome ingredients, BLUE Santa Snacks® are the perfect holiday treat.

If a trans-Pacific trip is out of reach, channel Hawai‘i with these functional (and fun) island-inspired buys These handy wipes offer protection comparable to SPF 15—just wipe over any fur-free spots.

Enter the

NAUGHTY or NICE

Waggo Playful Pineapple Dog Toy, $16; waggo.com

Well & Good Sun Protection Dog Wipes, $7; petco.com

The Golden Dog Company Waikiki Collar, $57; thegoldendogco.com

Photo Contest for your chance to win BLUE food!

For official rules visit:

BlueSantaSnacks.com

Do you have a favorite picture of your dog at the beach to share? To nominate your pup for Reader Pet of the Month, send a photo to beachdogs@coastalliving.com and tell us in 100 words or less why you think he or she deserves to be featured.

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

BY LAU R EN PHI L L I PS

FROM TOP: REBECCA FERGUSON, COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS (3)

You’ll find this grinning pooch chasing waves on Hawai‘i’s Island of Discovery

After comparing ingredients,

©2017 Blue Buffalo Co., Ltd.

9 out of 10 people who feed Dog Chow prefer the ingredients in BLUE.

Top 5 Ingredients 1. Whole Grain Corn 2. Meat and Bone Meal 3. Corn Gluten Meal 4. Animal Fat 5. Soybean Meal

1. Deboned Chicken 2. Chicken Meal 3. Brown Rice 4. Barley 5. Oatmeal

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Learn more about BLUE Life Protection Formula at CompareBlueDog.com Open your heart & home this holiday Adopt a pet near you at home4theholidays.org

Love them like family. Feed them like family.®

’Tis the season! Splashy wraps to dress up any gift PAGE 20

CURRENTS

JULIEN CAPMEIL; STYLING BY LINDSEY ELLIS BEATTY; MODEL: MOANI HARA FOR PREMIER MODELING; HAIR AND MAKEUP: STEPHANIE BOND

The best of the coast this month

From Hawai‘i, with Love 53 ways to say Mele Kalikimaka with thoughtful gifts curated by Hawaiian makers we adore, plus our own island-inspired picks

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

13

The Surf-Style

Maven

O‘ahu

CURRENTS

Jennifer Binney WHAT SHE’S GIVING Yosuzi Azteria Hat, $330 (with pompoms); yosuzi .com

REI Co-Op Tech Capris in Black Berry Jam Heather; $49.50; rei.com

FOR THE SHADESEEKER! IT’S HANDWOVEN FROM PALM STRAW IN VENEZUELA

Gigi Clozeau Mini Gigi 3 Diamond Necklace, $975; alohasuperette.com

“I WANT THIS ONE FOR MYSELF! FUNCTIONAL BUT BEAUTIFUL”

MIKOH Pahoa One-piece in Sea Turtle, $218; mikoh .com Tom Ford Santal Blush Eau de Parfum, $230 (50 mL); tomford.com

WHAT SHE MAKES

“TRAVIS IS ORIGINALLY FROM HAWAI‘I. IT’S A GREAT BOARD AND A PIECE OF ART”

SAMUDRA POUCH IN MAILI, FROM $68; SAMUDRA11.COM Durable cotton canvas makes this a beach-day no-brainer, plus it’s great for corralling the things that usually get lost at the bottom of your beach bag (ahem, car keys).

EDITORS’ PICKS 14

COASTAL LIVING December 2017

Nike Men’s Air Zoom Terra Kiger 4 Running Shoe in Hyper Crimson/ Team Orange/Turbo Green/Dark Team Red, $125; nike.com

Leica TL2 Camera in Silver, $1,950; leica-camera.com for retailers

Travis Reynolds Mini Simons Surfboard in Samudra Palms at Dawn, $1,300; travisreynolds.org

The Surfing Animals Alphabet

by Jonas Claesson, $40; pome maui.com

Columbia Women’s Shimmering Light II Long-sleeve Shirt in Red Coral, $60; columbia.com

PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF GIGI CLOZEAU; CAPRIS: ROB CULPEPPER; ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS; ILLUSTRATION BY JULIA LUDLAM

“Growing up on Maui, we’d go to these little stores called ‘superettes’ for fertilizer, or groceries, or the panty hose that came in egg-shaped containers,” says Binney.

“You could buy everything you needed there.” She brought the concept to her O‘ahu store, ALOHA SUPERETTE, where the inventory is always, she says, a little unexpected. “You can buy surfboards and ceramics, or sunscreen and organic bamboo plates.” One thing that’s always in stock: gear printed with island imagery from her own line, SAMUDRA (Sanskrit for “ocean”).

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

THE COL L ECTION Now Available at HSN SHOP THE NEW COLLECTION SEARCH FOOD & WINE AT HSN.COM

$10 OFF YOUR FIRST FOOD & WINE ORDER WITH CODE 176490 Coupon 176490 can be used on more than one item and can only be used once by its recipient and is valid for new HSN customers only. This coupon is valid for $10 off your HSN order of $20 or more from HSN’s distributed commerce platforms, HSN TV, HSN2, HSN.COM, HSN Mobile or HSN Shop By Remote (where available). Coupon number is non-transferable. Coupons must be applied when order is placed. Excludes shipping & handling, sales tax, Today’s Special, Today’s Special Presale, This Day Only offers, and clearance items and can only be applied to the first shipment of Auto-Ship items. The use of this coupon may disqualify the order from inclusion in other promotional offers or discounts. Coupons cannot be applied to or combined with other coupons. Coupon is not valid for Arrow Sewing, charitable contributions, gift cards, wine and alcohol, Janome, Samsung large appliances, selected footwear, the iRobot Roomba 880, electronics and gaming. We reserve the right to cancel orders when unexpected coupon system errors occur or in the case of abuse, misuse or fraud in connection with the coupon number. Offer is valid 10/1/2017-12/31/2017. Coupon Expires on 12/31/2017

the sun-seeking artist

Maui

CURRENTS

Kelsi Vande Velden WHAT SHE’S GIVING When Vande Velden found an antique compass sundial during a road-trip pit stop in California, she knew she had to have it. “I used a big chunk of my remaining gas money to buy it,” she says with a laugh. She made straps from leather scraps and added an old purse buckle to fashion her first PANDEIA watch.

When attempts to make more left her with a handful of broken sundial compasses, she took a break. A few years later, after a move to Maui, she picked up the compasses again, and this time: success!

“YOU CAN WEAR TWO DIFFERENT COLORS AT ONCE”

Perfect Formula In the Mood Nail Polish in Bubbly, Breathless, and Blissful, $8 each; themoodpolish.com

Le Creuset French Press in Hibiscus, $50 (small); lecreuset.com

Takeit Collection Esher Kimono, $200; takeit collection.com

WHAT SHE MAKES

PANDEIA SURF WATCH AND BONE WATCH, $295 EACH; PANDEIASTUDIO.COM Each watch is handcrafted from brass and leather in Velden’s treehouse-like studio, tucked deep in the Ha‘ikū jungle of Maui.

EDITORS’ PICKS 16

COASTAL LIVING December 2017

Ultimate Ears WONDERBOOM Wireless Bluetooth Speaker in Subzero, $100; ultimate ears.com

“I LOVE THE HOOK: YOU CAN HANG IT ON A TREE WHEN YOU’RE CAMPING”

“IT’S SOMETHING YOU CAN KEEP IN YOUR CAR TO TRANSFORM ANY OUTFIT”

The Land of Nod Classic Wooden Toy Guitar, $32; landofnod.com

Days End Designs Tropical Leaf Oversized Round Beach Towel, $70; etsy.com/shop/ daysenddesigns

FisheyeBrooklyn Gold-dipped Pink Pinch Bowls, $58 for a set of two; food52.com

Beachside Bohemian

by Robert and Cortney Novogratz, $55; rizzoli usa.com

CURRENTS

Wayúu Hammocks Aguadas Hammock in Blue Turquoise, $299; wayuu hammocks.com

Beats Solo3 Wireless On-Ear Headphones in Red, $300; apple.com

PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF RAJA ILIYA; KIMONO: ROB CULPEPPER; ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS; ILLUSTRATION BY JULIA LUDLAM

“YEP, STILL CRUNCHY!”

“THESE COOLERS LAST FOREVER, AND THEY’RE SO CUTE. AND IT’S SUCH A UNIVERSAL GIFT”

“IT WORKS FOR DINNER OR AS A NICE BEACH TOTE”

Clare V. Alice Tote in Cream Woven, $225; clarev.com

YETI Roadie 20 in White, $200; yeti.com

Sunski Dipseas Sunglasses in Tortoise Aqua, from $55; sunski.com

FROSTED SWEET.

Coleman Ladder Ball Pro Set, $70; coleman .com

CRUNCHY WHEAT.

Furbish Studio Vintage Embroidered African Indigo Pillow Pair I, $250; furbish studio.com

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

FEED YOUR 17

INNER KID ®, TM, © 2017 Kellogg NA Co.

CURRENTS

The open-air Adventurer

Hawai‘i

“YOU GUESSED IT, STILL CRUNCHY!”

Kristen Garrett WHAT SHE’S GIVING “It’s been an amazing adventure to go down this path,” says Garrett of the beekeeping venture she co-pilots with her Hawai‘i-born husband, Kawika Sebag. The California native says it’s simple: They’re just following the bees. The couple has kept beehives on the island since 2011, collecting nectar from Hawaiian flora that infuse their BIG ISLAND MOONBOW FARMS smallbatch honeys with sweet tropical flavor.

“I LOVE THEIR CRAFTSMANSHIP AND INCORPORATION OF UPCYCLED MATERIALS”

Kayu St. Tropez Tote in Natural, $125; kayudesign.com

Sidai Designs Mixed Pattern Warrior Bracelet in White/ Turquoise, $59; sidaidesigns.com

“I’D GIVE THIS TO ONE OF MY GIRLFRIENDS. I LOVE THE FLORAL PATTERN”

WHAT SHE MAKES

BIG ISLAND MOONBOW FARMS WAI MELI LOCAL RAW HONEY, FROM $13 EACH; WAIMELI.COM

FROSTED SWEET.

CRUNCHY WHEAT.

Big Island Moonbow Farms’s honey is unheated and unfiltered, so it’s a natural way to add the pure essence of Hawai‘i to your coffee or yogurt in the morning. Be sure to snag a honeycomb-patterned beeswax candle, too!

EDITORS’ PICKS

FEED YOUR

INNER KID ®, TM, © 2017 Kellogg NA Co.

18

COASTAL LIVING December 2017

Sheinfeld Rodriguez TERN Stacking Rings in Rose Gold, $229 for a set of three; sheinfeld rodriguez.com

Cynthia Rowley Rainbow Vines Print Wetsuit, $295; cynthiarowley.com

Do One Thing Every Day That Centers You: A Mindfulness Journal, $13; bn.com

L.L.Bean Supertough 1000-Denier Adventure Duffle in Cayenne/Mountain Red, $70 (medium); llbean.com

CURRENTS

“AHHHH, THE SWEET LIFE.”

“HER MODERN INTERPRETATION OF THE ALOHA SHIRT IS A TESTAMENT TO HER ABILITY TO MAKE CLASSIC LOOK COOL”

PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF MEGAN SPELMAN; ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS; ILLUSTRATION BY JULIA LUDLAM

Roberta Oaks Pink Leaf Aloha Shirt, $120; robertaoaks.com 2018 America the Beautiful National Parks & Federal Recreational Lands Annual Pass, $80; store.usgs.gov

Slingshot Coffee Co. Variety Pack, $19; slingshotcoffee company.com

FOR 20% OFF, USE THE CODE “COASTAL20” THROUGH DECEMBER 20

“INDEGO AFRICA’S COMMITMENT TO WOMEN ARTISANS IS REALLY INSPIRING”

‘OHI How to Gather and Arrange Hawai‘i’s Flora

by Tamara Rigney & Mariko Reed, $22; paikohawaii.com

Indego Africa Arrow Copabu Bowl in Tea, $88; shop.indegoafrica.org

Fitbit Ionic Smart Fitness Watch in Slate Blue/Burnt Orange, $300; fitbit.com

Birkenstock Madrid Slip-ons in White Patent Birko-Flor, $80; zappos.com

FROSTED SWEET.

CRUNCHY WHEAT.

Drunk Elephant Lippe Balm, $18; sephora. com

FEED YOUR December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

19

INNER KID ®, TM, © 2017 Kellogg NA Co.

The beach-going

Mama

Kaua‘i

CURRENTS

Kelly Kakalia WHAT SHE’S GIVING FOR THE GREEN THUMB: GIVE HOUSE PLANTS A LIFT WITH THESE PRETTY METAL-AND-CERAMIC PLANTERS

Umbra Trigg Wall Planter Set in Gold, $30 for two; urbanoutfitters.com

Pehr Citron Linen Throw, $160; pehrdesigns.com

The Wandering Workshop Minimalist Stacking Boat Toy, $43; thetot .com Rip Curl Pineapple Express Laydays 20" Board Shorts in Teal, $54.50; ripcurl.com

“I LOVE THAT IT’S MADE IN SMALL BATCHES

BY OTHER LOCAL HAWAIIANS!”

Leahlani Skincare Kokoleka Ritual Dessert Detox Mask, $68; leahlaniskincare.com

Hawaiian Shaved Ice Starter Package with Electric Shaved Ice Machine, $38; hawaiian shavedice.com

WHAT SHE MAKES

HOA KAI KIDS’ PONCHOS IN PINK MERMAID AND BLUE AZTEC, $49 EACH; HOAKAISURF.COM Lightweight Turkish cotton in tropical hues makes these the ultimate throw-on-andgo cover-ups for the littlest beach bums in your crew.

WRAP IT UP! Banana Leaves 1b by muhlenkott

20

COASTAL LIVING December 2017

“THIS WOULD BE SO NEAT FOR CAMPING— A FUN LITTLE BEACH GAME”

Hula Girl on Seafoam by littlearrowdesign

Sunnylife Pineapple Ping-Pong Play On, $39; sunnylife.com

Blue Hawaii Drinks Hilton by charlottewinter

$15 per roll; printed by spoonflower .com

MAKE A LIST, CHECK IT TWICE See more editors’ picks for this year’s standout holiday gifts at coastalliving.com/gifts

PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF FOTOPOPKAUAI.COM; TURKISH TOWELS AND WRAPPING PAPER: ROB CULPEPPER; ALL OTHER PRODUCTS: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS; ILLUSTRATION BY JULIA LUDLAM

It all started with a towel poncho. “One of my friends picked it up as a last-minute gift,” says Kakalia. The material was bulky and took forever to dry, so the mother of two did some research, and when she discovered Turkish towels, something clicked.

With help from a friend who could sew and a family manufacturer she found in Turkey, Kakalia designed the lightweight poncho that’s since become the backbone of her family’s business.

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F E E L S D I F F E R E N T.

Tour a retro-cool family retreat on Hawai‘i’s Kailua Coast PAGE 29

HAVENS Fresh ideas for beach homes

COLOR THEORY

Emerald Green Look alive! This vibrant, verdant hue is Mother Nature’s secret style weapon (and yours, too)

BY R AC H A E L B U RROW P H OTO GRAP H BY R OB CU LPE PP ER

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

23

HAVENS | COLOR THEORY

PAIR IT

Deep emerald cabinetry makes sleeker spaces like kitchens feel more connected to nature.

Offset the organic hue with hits of industrial brass for a killer yin-and-yang combo.

Buy It

Design by Commune

1 Kelly Wearstler for Groundworks Paradox Fabric in Green/Black, available to the trade; leejofa.com

3 Thibaut Wicker Weave Wallpaper in Emerald Green, $115 per single roll; thibautdesign.com for retailers 4 Schumacher Eubie Lip Cord Trim in Green, available to the trade; fschumacher.com 5 Schumacher Antique Strie Velvet Fabric in Emerald, available to the trade; fschumacher.com 6 Rejuvenation Reedsport Cabinet Knobs in Oak, $25 each; rejuvenation.com 7 Artistic Tile Botanic Green ¾" Quartzite Slab, $105.50 per square foot; artistictile.com 8 York Wallcoverings Bali Leaves Wallpaper in Tropic Green, $96 per double-roll bolt; yorkwall.com for retailers

Paint It

9 Benjamin Moore Regal Select Paint in Clover Green, $48 per gallon; benjaminmoore.com for retailers 10 Schumacher Barnett Fabric in Boxwood, available to the trade; fschumacher.com 11 Rejuvenation Meacham Cabinet Knob in Oak, $25; rejuvenation.com

GREENBELT

PIONEER

SHERWIN-WILLIAMS

PORTOLA PAINTS & GLAZES

PARADISE OF GREENERY BEHR

BLARNEY STONE PPG PITTSBURGH PAINTS

POP IT 2 1 3 11 4 10

5 9 7

6

8

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

Scenario Home Moroccan Rattan Settee in Green, $1,792.50; scenariohome.com

Jayson Home Mourad Plate, $24; jaysonhome.com

Green Leaves by Paule Marrot (44" by 56"), $2,985; naturalcuriosities.com

KITCHEN: TRUNK ARCHIVE/FRANCOIS HELARD; INDUSTRIAL BRASS SAMPLE: WEPIX/GETTY IMAGES; SETTEE, PLATE, AND PAINTING: COURTESY OF MANUFACTURERS

2 Mosaic House Jardin 8" by 8" Cement Tiles in Spring Green/ Green, $27.50 per square foot; mosaichse.com

A DV E RT I S E M E N T

L E T O N E O F O U R M E M B E R S T U R N I N S P I R AT I O N I N T O R E A L I T Y. ALABAMA Birmingham Dana Wolter Interiors danawolterinteriors.com

COLORADO Denver Duet Design Group duetdesigngroup.com

KENTUCKY Louisville GreyHouse Design greyhousedesign.com

Charlotte Catherine M. Austin Interior Design catherinemaustin.com

TENNESSEE Memphis YorkBinkley yorkbinkley.com

Iris&Co irisandcompany.net

FLORIDA Delray Beach Erin Paige Pitts Erinpaigepittsinteriors.com

LOUISIANA New Orleans Grace Kaynor Designs gracekaynordesigns.com

The English Room theenglishroom.biz

Nashville Sarah Catherine Design sarahcatherinedesign.com

Pensacola Lacy Phillips Designs lacyphillips.com

MARYLAND BETHESDA Marika Meyer Interiors meyerinteriors.com

Montgomery Ashley Gilbreath Interior Design ashleygilbreath.com ARKANSAS Fayetteville Goddard Design Group goddarddesigngroup.com

Rosemary Beach Tracery Interiors traceryinteriors.com

Little Rock Bear-Hill Interiors bearhillinteriors.com

Sarasota Tracey Rapisardi Design traceyrapisardidesign.com

Northwest Arkansas MH Design, Inc. melissahaynesdesign.com

Tallahassee Maison Studios maisonstudios.com

CALIFORNIA Bay Area Regan Baker Design reganbakerdesign.com

GEORGIA Atlanta Anna Braund annabraund.com

Kriste Michelini Interiors kristemichelini.com

Courtney Giles Interiors courtneygiles.com

Kelley Flynn Interior Design kelleyflynn.com Lake Tahoe High Camp Home highcamphome.com Costa Mesa Blackband Design blackbanddesign.com San Diego Kathy Ann Abell Interiors kathyannabell.com CM Natural Designs cmnaturaldesigns.com

Lauren DeLoach Interiors laurendeloachinteriors.com Gordon Dunning gordondunning.com Carter Kay Interiors carterkayinteriors.com Margaret Kirkland Interiors margaretkirklandinteriors.com Milk and Honey Home, LLC milkandhoneyhome.com Jennifer Schoenberger Design jenniferschoenbergerdesign.com

West Hollywood Mark D. Sikes markdsikes.com

Savannah Anne Hagerty Interiors annehagertyinteriors.com

West Los Angeles Leslie L. Hunt Interior Design www.llhinteriors.com

St. Simons Island Johnson Vann Interiors johnsonvann.com

Easton Coastal Haven Design coastalhavendesign.com MASSACHUSETTS Boston Katie Rosenfeld Design katierosenfelddesign.com Nantucket Audrey Sterk Design audreysterk.com MICHIGAN Ann Arbor Cloth & Kind clothandkind.com MINNESOTA Mendota Heights Bria Hammel Interiors briahammelinteriors.com MISSISSIPPI Jackson Betsey Mosby Interior Design betseymosby.com NEW YORK New York City Jenny Wolf Interiors jennywolfinteriors.com Lindsey Coral Harper Interiors lchinteriors.com Robin Henry Studio robinhenrystudio.com NORTH CAROLINA Bald Head Island Room Service Home Furnishings roomservicebhi.com

Greensboro Jessica Dauray Interiors jessicadaurayinteriors.com High Point Barbour Spangle Design barbourspangle.com Oriental The Red Rickshaw theredrickshaw.com Raleigh-Durham Southern Studio Interior Design southernstudio.com

TEXAS Austin Meredith Ellis meredithellisdesign.com Dallas Sarah Lindsey Design sarahlindseydesign.com Chambers Interiors & Associates chambersinteriors.com Houston Chairma Design Group chairma.com

Wilmington Hooper Patterson Interior Design hooperpattersoninterior design.com

Edwina Alexis edwinaalexis.com

RHODE ISLAND Newport Digs Design Company digsdesignco.com

Meg Lonergan Interior Design meglonergan.com

SOUTH CAROLINA Bluffton Lisa Furey Barefoot Interiors lisafureyinteriors.com Charleston Catherine Brown Paterson Design catherinebrownpaterson.com Sandra Ericksen Design sandraericksen.com

Lindsey Herod Interiors lindseyherod.com

Shannon Crain Design shannoncraindesign.com VIRGINIA Charlottesville Alana’s, LTD alanasltd.com McLean Kristin Peake Interiors kristinpeakeinteriors.com Richmond Bridget Beari Designs bridgetbearidesigns.com

Greenville ID Studio Interiors idstudiointeriors.com

Janie Molster Designs janiemolster.com

Hilton Head Island J.Banks Design jbanksdesign.com

WASHINGTON DC Lauren Liess Interiors laurenliess.com

HAVENS | COLLECTING

Vintage Aloha Shirts Hawai‘i’s flashy, freewheeling shirts have an equally colorful history, and make for brilliantly beachy wall art WHEN ELLERY CHUN returned to his native Hawai‘i at the height of the Great Depression, the Yale graduate realized he’d need a gimmick to keep his family’s Honolulu dry-goods shop afloat. Chun found his answer in leftover yukata cloth, a lightweight cotton used for Japanese kimonos.

He added tropical Hawaiian designs (created by his sister), and then had tailors fashion the cloth into shirts.

He styled them untucked and sold them as “aloha shirts.”

Chun wasn’t the only one who’d had a yukata-inspired stroke of genius. There were others—two companies, Musashiya and Surfriders Sportswear, made the shirts up until World War II—but Chun had the savvy to trademark the “aloha shirt” term. Later, WWII veteran Alfred Shaheen got in on the action, hiring local artists to create shirts with Hawaiian designs and mass producing them. The shirts’ popularity soared, and everyone from surfers to servicemen to Elvis rocked them.

Today, aloha shirts still have major star power: Honolulu-born singer Bruno Mars is known to sport them on stage, and they’re equally hot as beach house decor when framed and hung like art on the wall.

Online sources such as vintagealoha-shirts.com and The Hana Shirt Co. sell them for anywhere from $50 to about $2,500, depending on factors like the design’s artist and the intensity of the color. Longsleeved aloha shirts are exceptionally rare: One sold at auction for more than $10,000!

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

Our kind of wallflowers!

Turn your faves into a tropical art collection.

Frame, Framebrige; framebridge .com

YOU CAN THANK HAWAI‘I FOR CASUAL FRIDAYS In 1962, the Hawaiian Fashion Guild gifted every member of the State Senate and House of Representatives two aloha shirts to wear around the capitol. Shortly after, the Senate passed a resolution declaring aloha shirts appropriate work attire for summer Fridays. It took a few decades, but eventually the practice of breezy Friday attire reached the contiguous United States (as an inexpensive morale boost during the early 1990s recession), and “casual Friday” was born.

BY R AC H A E L B URR OW AND BETSY CRIBB

P HOTOGR A PHS BY R O B CU LP E PPER

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HAVENS | SEASIDE DESIGN

Cabin Fever!

This open-air vacation hub might be the closest thing there is to a grown-up Hawaiian sleepaway camp. Here’s a look at the genius island escape, with plenty of ideas you can bring to the mainland

Western red cedarand-steel entry gates open to a central lawn around which all six hales (cabins) are situated.

BY B L A K E M I L L E R

P H OTO GRAP H S BY M ATTH EW MI LLMA N

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

29

HAVENS | SEASIDE DESIGN

MAYBE IT’S NEVER TOO LATE to go back to summer

camp. That was Architect Greg Warner’s hunch when he began sketching a nontraditional design plan for his clients’ lot on the Kona side of the Big Island, sandwiched between mountains and sea. His clients wanted a Hawaiian getaway that could accommodate family and friends, something laid-back, a place where they could watch the sun rise over the mountains in the morning and sink into the Pacific in the evening.

It would need to have an openness, he decided, while still bringing people together. And it would need to connect to the region’s history: “In the 1930s and ’40s, most of the homes on the Big Island—whether along the coast or tucked up in the mountains—had a ranch feeling to them. They felt a little campy,” says Warner, who grew up in nearby North Kohala. An open-air compound reminiscent of a rustic (but thoroughly modernized) sleepaway camp slowly began taking shape. Interior designers Marion PhilpottsMiller and Ginger Lunt even channeled inspiration from a Kaua‘i camp that Philpotts-Miller frequented as a child: 1930s-era Camp Sloggett. (The name alone brings back the sounds of canoe hulls bumping up against each other!) The result is a contemporary spin on those nostalgic ideals. Here, a look at a few of the hallmarks the groovy house shares with those crash courses in nature and community of our youth.

The pool deck is crafted of ipe, and the Warisan chaises are teak.

The umbrella is by Tuuci.

Sliding doors painted Tea by Benjamin Moore open the kitchen to views of mountains and sea.

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

YOU WALK OUTSIDE TO GET YOUR BREAKFAST Though the house is 4,500 square feet, they’re spread out over six primary hales, or cabins: a main building featuring a kitchen and casual dining room, family room, master suite, and expansive lānai; two guest hales; a wash house; a garage; and a tiki bar.

“The buildings all connect around a large lawn, which encourages everyone to spend time together in the communal areas, just like you would at a camp,” says Warner. To ensure that each hale is well-positioned to catch the breeze, he and his team camped out on the lot for a night before putting pencil to paper to draw up the design plan.

The chairs are vintage; the map was enlarged and printed on canvas.

WATCHING TV IS A B-LIST ACTIVITY At summer camp, screen time plays second fiddle. So the designers hid the TV behind a 30- by 45-inch framed map of the Big Island.

“What’s great is that this particular map shows where each of the pu‘u [hills] are that the cabins are named after,” says Philpotts-Miller.

EVERYTHING FEELS A LITTLE OLD-SCHOOL

The designers used native koa wood to build the daybed and open shelving in the living room. The cushion and solid pillows are covered in Perennials fabric, and the patterned pillows are barkcloth.

Philpotts-Miller wanted the interiors to exude a collected, retro feel, so she scoured secondhand stores and collector shows around Hawai‘i to find scores like these vintage monkey pod– leaf chairs (inset) that she reupholstered with a Lee Jofa fabric. “My client loved the idea of going on treasure hunts to find furniture and accessories that feel at home here,” the designer says. Just above the custom pūne‘e (daybed) sits a collection of koa wood coconut balls Philpotts-Miller and the homeowner collected during their shopping trips.

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

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HAVENS | SEASIDE DESIGN

The kitchen hale is adjacent to an outdoor dining area.

THE DAYS START AT SUNRISE—PERIOD Warner designed the kitchen’s roofline “high and upward toward views of the mountains,” he says, so that the owners could see the sun creep up over the peaks.

Similarly, the lānai’s roofline angles “low and downward toward views of the ocean and coastline.” The team kept both the interior and exterior palettes minimal and organic: western red cedar on many of the interior walls, and cedar shake and teak on the hales’ exteriors.

IT’S NOT GLAMPING. (OK, IT PROBABLY IS) The team opted for “rustic camp-house kitchen” over “modern marvel.” In lieu of heavy wood finishes, Lunt and Philpotts-Miller painted the teak cabinetry avocado green to draw the colors of the landscape in. An oversize window above the kitchen sink mirrors the massive sliding barn-door entrance, which provides a seamless view from mountain to ocean.

The barstools are rattan, and the flooring is super durable stained concrete.

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

The kitchen island is painted Saguaro by Sherwin-Williams and topped with a butcherblock counter made from native ‘ōhi‘a wood.

The architects were inspired by the utilitarian style of 1930s ranch homes.

The roof is copper.

The bed is by Schoolhouse Electric & Supply Co., and the box-spring fabric is by Tin Can Mailman.

The headboard is by Wilkinson Woodworks; the nightstand is

by Place.

ALL THE BEDROOMS HAVE NAMES Using the surroundings as inspiration, each of the cabin bedrooms is named after a nearby hill or beach.

In the Kolekole guest hale, the palm box-spring covers are traditional barkcloth, and the checked fabric is an old-school Hawaiian plaid cotton called palaka, which was most commonly worn

by Hawaiian plantation workers in the 1930s and ’40s. “Growing up, I would see this pattern in every form: quilts, shirts, pillows,” says Philpotts-Miller. “I loved the idea of bringing in references to a bygone era.”

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

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HOTELS FOR Hotels as diverse as our guests ® From family-friendly suites to stylish hotels, from extensive resort amenities to incredible locations, we offer the perfect fit for anyone visiting Hawaii.

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Kaua‘i’s coolest chef reveals his favorite places to eat PAGE 41

NAVIGATOR Where to go now on the coast

THE GUIDE

Hawai‘i, Now!

MONICA AND MICHAEL SWEET/GETTY IMAGES

One vacation, six islands to choose from—you want to do it right. From secret beaches and dreamy resorts to killer mai tais, here’s the insider guide to help you do just that

Maui

BY C A R O L I N E M C KENZ IE

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

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SHOPPING STOP Pu‘uhonua O Hōnaunau National Historical Park

PUEO BOUTIQUE

With a focus on local brands, this shop with two locations in KailuaKona curates clothing (including for kids), handbags, and homedesign items. Pueo also has a namesake line emblazoned with the short-eared owl that’s native to the islands—a portion of proceeds from sales of these products goes to the Hawai‘i Wildlife Center; pueoboutique.com.

TOP-NOTCH MAI TAI

JACKIE REY’S OHANA GRILL HILO

There’s always a little hyperbole in mai tai world, but this restaurant’s “Da Best” Mai Tai earns its moniker thanks to both the happy-hour price ($5) and the fresh ingredients, including a giant slice of pineapple; jackiereyshilo.com.

MEAL OF THE MOMENT

SUSHI U

THE ADVENTURER’S ISLAND

HAWAI‘I

Locals love Samuel Sapp’s takeout spot in Kailua-Kona, and the option to customize your own rolls. While Yelp may say the place is open until 4 p.m., anyone who knows better will tell you the sign says, “11-pau (finished).” Plan accordingly, and stay chill about it; 808/756-0163.

Maunakea

The youngest and largest island in the archipelago, Hawai‘i Island is home to 10 different climate types, black sand beaches, lava flows, and even snowfall Sushi U

SECRET BEACH

KAHALU‘U BEACH PARK

The big payoff at this tiny, sheltered cove on the west side of the island is what’s under the water: The snorkeling is out of this world. Get here before 10 a.m. for the best show of colorful fish, and bring some dive socks (to navigate the rocks) and cash (to rent your snorkeling gear).

FAMOUS AND WORTH IT

MAUNAKEA

The highest point in the state (13,796 feet above sea level) is an epic journey to an astronomically important and environmentally sensitive site that literally takes the breath out of breathtaking in both aesthetic and physical terms.

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

Be mindful of the potentially serious effects of high altitude, and check with the folks at the Visitor Information Station (VIS) on the way up for the mountain’s changeable weather conditions.

Stargazing is available at the VIS four nights a week; ifa.hawaii .edu/info/vis.

OLD-SCHOOL FAVORITE

PUNALU‘U BAKE SHOP

The southern portion of Hawai‘i is pleasantly frozen in time. No surprise it’s the location of the classic Punalu‘u Bake Shop, which makes the island’s best cookies and sweet breads. Resist the urge to order macadamia nut– filled everything and also sample a few of the taro-infused treats; bakeshophawaii.com.

NATURAL WONDER

HAWAI‘I VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

It’s a must. Make time to do the Crater Rim Drive, a tour of the summit of Kīlauea volcano with plenty of stop-offs, including the cool and misty Steam Vents lookout. The $25 park pass is good for seven days; plan a return trip for a day hike.

CULTURE EXCURSION

KONA’S COFFEE COUNTRY

Combine sunshine, art, and coffee and you have a day in Kona. This sunny and expansive stretch on the island’s western flank is home to more than 600 coffee farms, and many are open for tours and

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: GLOWIMAGES/GETTY IMAGES, DANITA DELIMONT/ALAMY, TRACY WRIGHT CORVO PHOTOGRAPHY, COURTESY OF MAUNA KEA RESORT, CHRISTOPHER CHAN/GETTY IMAGES, COURTESY OF @LILFOODIEFAMILY

NAVIGATOR | THE GUIDE

Kona’s coffee country

INSIDER TAKE

Where the Architect Goes for Inspiration “The Big Island’s ancient spiritual landmarks have a powerful presence.

There’s the temple of Pu‘ukoholā Heiau and the sacred Pu‘uhonua O Hōnaunau. I’m also moved by Hawai‘i’s numerous rural churches— humble structures that speak to a simpler time.”

MARK DE REUS founder of De Reus Architects

Snorkling at Mauna Kea Beach Hotel

tastings. For a charming double team of art and history, stop in Hōlualoa, a small village and art enclave perched in the upland farms.

REST YOUR HEAD AT

MAUNA KEA BEACH HOTEL

In 1965, Mauna Kea Beach Hotel opened as Hawai‘i Island’s first resort. More than half a century later, the property includes a championship golf course, a secluded shoreline, and an expansive collection of PacificRim artwork and artifacts. While there, ask the beach bartender for a “Fredrico.” Locals swear by one (or two). Rates start at $455; princeresortshawaii.com.

SOUVENIR POWER MOVE

PAREU FROM SIG ZANE DESIGNS

Swing by the textile designer’s flagship Hilo store and score an exquisite pareu (Tahitian for “sarong”). You’ll marvel at the fine detailing of Zane’s Hawaiian flora and tribal motifs, along with the versatility of the piece (swim cover-up, wall-hanging, or folded as a carryall, to name a few); sigzanedesigns.com.

SWEET SUNSET SPOT

HĀPUNA BEACH STATE RECREATION AREA

Whether you roll up to this beach near Maunakea just for the celestial show or spend the entire day on these broad, pale sands, the setting sun shimmers unforgettably on the placid waters here.

PRIME WATERING HOLE

LAVA LAVA BEACH CLUB

This spot on Anaeho‘omalu Bay is an esteemed hangout of the toes-in-the-sand variety. Not to be missed: Hawaiian music legend Henry Kapono, who performs the third Friday night of each month; lavalavabeachclub.com.

DON’T LEAVE BEFORE YOU

SNORKEL WITH MANTA RAYS … AT NIGHT

Snorkelers and scuba divers alike hail Big Island Divers’s manta ray night excursion, where the giant creatures swirl between planktonattracting light boxes. Spring for the GoPro add-on and capture your very own take on the once-ina-lifetime experience. Excursions start at $105; bigislanddivers.com.

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

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NAVIGATOR | THE GUIDE The Modern Honolulu’s Sunrise Pool

THE SOPHISTICATE/SURFER’S ISLAND

O‘AHU

With vibrant Honolulu as its anchor, the third-largest Hawaiian Island is home to a diverse population, which spreads from the big city to far-flung surf towns

The view overlooking Lanikai

NATURAL WONDER

HANAUMA BAY STATE PARK On the island’s eastern tip in a volcanic cone, these pristine waters are among Hawai‘i’s top snorkeling destinations. Once abused by tourists, the area is now controlled and requires visitors to watch a nine-minute video on preserving marine life before entering the park.

FAMOUS AND WORTH IT

PEARL HARBOR + ‘IOLANI PALACE

If you think you shouldn’t see these sites because they’re so famous, think again: Both are vital glimpses of history that affected these islands and the world beyond.

Book a tour of Pearl Harbor

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

Memorial through Polynesian Adventure Tours ($49; polyad hawaiitours.com), and do not miss the gowns that belonged to Queen Lili‘uokalani, who was imprisoned in ‘Iolani Palace. Admission starts at $14.75; iolanipalace.org.

REST YOUR HEAD AT

THE MODERN HONOLULU

With striking views and tranquil white rooms, this sophisticated hotel is a hidden gem. Make your daily commute between the Sunrise Pool (surrounded by aged-teak decking and a canopy of autograph trees) and the Sunset Pool (encircled in white sand and daybeds with oversize batik pillows). Rates start at $339; themodernhonolulu.com.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: ASHLEY THOMAS, COURTESY OF MODERN HONOLULU, TONY SHI PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES

Hanauma Bay State Park

SECRET BEACH

WAIMĀNALO BAY BEACH PARK

The joy of learning to surf

This roughly three-mile stretch of golden sand and turquoise waters on the island’s windward side is as secluded as it is stunning. Spend the morning at the park and grab plate lunch from the roadside stand Keneke’s on your way out.

DON’T LEAVE BEFORE YOU

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: COURTESY OF STAR BEACHBOYS, COURTESY OF THE PIG & THE LADY, COURTESY OF PAMAKANE PICO

TAKE A SURF LESSON

Learn the basics of Hawai‘i’s signature sport in group or private one-hour lessons with Honolulu’s Star Beachboys. (Look for their yellow tent in front of the Duke Kahanamoku statue on Waikīkī Beach.) After hanging 10, walk five (minutes) down the beach and reward yourself with a cocktail under the pink umbrellas of the Royal Hawaiian Hotel.

KNOCKOUT VIEW

NU‘UANU PALI

Just five miles from Honolulu, this lookout on the Pali Highway provides sweeping views above (to the Ko‘olau cliffs) and below (across the lush countryside of the Windward Coast). The spot is also known for its strong winds, so prepare to feel nature announce itself amid the visual splendor.

SHOPPING STOP

ECHO & ATLAS

Skip the luxury retailers that line Honolulu’s posh Ala Moana Boulevard and take advantage instead of the city’s crop of independent boutiques with strong aesthetic chops. Case in point: Echo & Atlas, designer Julianne Thomas McGee’s handpicked collection of clothing, vintage jewelry, and even dishware; echo-atlas.myshopify.com.

TOP-NOTCH MAI TAI

HOUSE WITHOUT A KEY

Settle in at the evocatively named restaurant at the storied Halekulani hotel for a sweet take laced with rock-candy syrup. The breezy oceanfront setting—on a lanai beneath an ancient kiawe tree—is also pretty sweet; halekulani.com.

SWEET SUNSET SPOT

THE FISH HOUSE

O‘ahu’s western shores abound with fiery displays, but the most stylish place to watch it all go down is the Fish House at the Four Seasons Resort O‘ahu at Ko Olina.

You’ll have a 180-degree view across Ko Olina’s lagoons, framed

The Pig & The Lady

by tiki torches and palm trees.

Complement the scene with the aptly named Sunset Smash cocktail: a blend of gin, strawberries, basil, and liliko‘i kombucha.

MEAL OF THE MOMENT

THE PIG & THE LADY

The hot center of O‘ahu’s blazing food scene is The Pig & The Lady, where chef/owner Andrew Le creates inventive, Vietnam-inspired dishes such as miso-cured salmon and free-range duck pho. (Insiders avoid the crowds by going on Tuesday nights.) Also having an enduring moment: Ed Kenney’s family of standout restaurants that champion local fare: Mud Hen Water, Kaimuki Superette, Mahina & Sun, and Town.

PRIME WATERING HOLE

THE TCHIN TCHIN! BAR

It doesn’t get much hipper than Honolulu’s Chinatown, where this swanky loft space turned wine bar pours and pairs with small plates.

Locals like its rooftop patio for the ultimate pau hana, a Hawaiian ritual of after-work relaxation and socializing that visitors will find themselves wanting to take home with them; thetchintchinbar.com.

SOUVENIR POWER MOVE

PRINT FROM ASHLEY GOODWIN

Photographer Ashley Goodwin documents her home island with artful shots that capture the beachy, breezy beauty of O‘ahu. Frameable 24- by 36-inch prints are $225; ashleygoodwin photography.com.

INSIDER TAKE

A Honolulu Day Done Right “I rise early and hike to Lanikai— the name means ‘sea heaven’—to watch the sunrise.

After that, I head to Anuenue Exquisite Tea for a cup of freshly brewed green.

In the afternoon I visit the farmers’ market for fresh fruit and vegetables.

Finally, I stop in at ‘Ai Love Nalo, one of several new vegan restaurants in Honolulu, for the Banana Swirl, a take on Hawai‘i’s beloved acai bowls.”

PAMAKANE PICO owner/lead designer at Ocean Dreamer Florals

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

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NAVIGATOR | THE GUIDE

The Nāpali Coast

Wailua Shave Ice

THE EXPLORER’S ISLAND

KAUA‘I

The oldest of Hawai‘i’s islands, Kaua‘i is a garden of delights, with steep, wild ridges, navigable rivers, a lush North Shore, and a sunny, sandy South Shore FAMOUS AND WORTH IT

THE NĀPALI COAST

Kaua‘i’s Nāpali Coast blows your mind when it appears in Jurassic Park; it will blow your mind forever when you see it in person. The only land access into this steeply dramatic and verdant terrain is on foot via the treacherous Kalalau Trail. For a more leisurely experience, book with Capt. Andy’s Sailing Adventures and gaze upon its majesty from the water—$79 for a two-hour cruise; napali.com.

CULTURE EXCURSION

‘ALEKOKO

Just outside of Līhu‘e sits this nearly 1,000-year-old fish pond

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

invented by ancient Hawaiians to capture and harvest fish. Its meticulous construction from lava rock is credited to the Menehune— tiny people of Hawaiian legend— who are reported to have done it all in one night. Overlook it from Hulemalu Road, or book a kayak tour to explore the Hulē‘ia River as part of Outfitters Kauai’s Hidden Valley Falls Kayak Adventure; outfitterskauai.com.

KNOCKOUT VIEW

THE OCEAN COURSE AT HŌKŪALA

You’ll forget you’re golfing when you take in the view over Nāwiliwili Bay from the Ocean Course at

Hōkūala, on the island’s southeast shore. And prepare to wake up to that view: Timbers Resorts is finishing a resort and community there in 2021.

MEAL OF THE MOMENT

THE LOCAL KAUAI + STREET BURGER

The charming town of Kapa‘a has some of Kaua‘i’s most exciting restaurants. Get in on the scene at executive chef Erin Keller’s The Local (grown-in-Hawai‘i ingredients in every dish and cocktail) and chef/owners Aaron and Kristin Leikam’s Street Burger (made from Kaua‘i-raised, grass-fed beef).

REST YOUR HEAD AT

KO‘A KEA HOTEL & RESORT + THE PALMWOOD

For the twin pleasures of luxury and nostalgia, check in at the beautifully updated Ko‘a Kea Hotel & Resort in sunny Po‘ipū Beach. Explore a string of beaches along an oceanfront path, or just park contentedly at the pool.

Rates from $389; koakea.com.

For a verdant escape, head for the mountains of the North Shore and The Palmwood, a jungle-like

sanctuary modeled on the Japanese ryokan style of guesthouse. Here, a sublime trio of rooms takes the notion of boutique property to a new level. Rates start at $295; thepalmwood.com.

TOP-NOTCH MAI TAI

MERRIMAN’S

Get to Peter Merriman’s eponymous restaurant in Po‘ipū for the most elevated mai tai on the island. Here, the house version has Maui-distilled Old Lahaina Premium Silver and Dark rums, house-made macadamia nut orgeat, and a hand-whipped honey-and-liliko‘i foam topper that took weeks to perfect; merrimanshawaii.com.

PRIME WATERING HOLE

EATING HOUSE 1849

You’ll be hard-pressed to give up your seat at Roy Yamaguchi’s homage to Hawaiian plantation cuisine. There’s an excellent wine list (the “50 Bottles Under $50” section is hard to beat) and inventive, tropical takes on classic cocktails. Keep the party going with savory pupu plates (crispy cauliflower and pork-and-shrimp pot stickers, to name a few).

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: M.M.SWEET/GETTY IMAGES, COURTESY OF LISA MARIE HARTZ, JESSICA SAMPLE

Street Burger

SHOPPING STOP

ALOHA EXCHANGE

You’ll want to buy it all at this lifestyle shop bursting with surfer-skater style. The Kalāheo boutique near Kaua‘i’s southern shore is best-known for its line of super soft cotton T-shirts; thealohaexchange.com.

SECRET BEACH

HIDEAWAYS + PALI KE KUA

Separated by a major outcropping of rock (you can swim around this, with caution, when the waters are calm), both of these North Shore beaches are stunning escapes.

Hideaways, reachable via a steep (and sometimes slippery) trail, is known for its turquoise waters and deep reefs for avid snorkelers. Pali Ke Kua (also reachable on foot, if you don’t fancy a swim-around), is a small, golden-sand beauty.

SWEET SUNSET SPOT

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: JESSICA SAMPLE, COURTESY OF TIMBERS KAUAI/PAUL DYER, MICHELE FALZONE/GETTY IMAGES

KEKAHA BEACH

Locals love to surf and fish on this long, sandy stretch located on Kaua‘i’s far west side (be careful of strong winds and currents if you’re considering a swim). It’s also a great place to beachcomb while waiting for the sun to drop behind the horizon.

OLD-SCHOOL FAVORITE

TAHITI NUI

Hunker down at this ramshackleperfect joint on the North Shore made famous in a scene from the film The Descendants. Stay for the nightly live music, and do it up right by ordering the #5 pizza topped with Kalua pork and, of course, pineapples; thenui.com.

The Ocean Course at Hōkūala

INSIDER TAKE

How to Eat Like a Boss on Kaua‘i “I start with fresh Hawaiian fruit, followed by brunch at Sam’s Ocean View in Kapa‘a. It’s a great place to relax and watch the waves roll in while sipping on a bloody Mary. For a cool snack in the heat of the day, I go to Wailua Shave Ice. Lunch is at the fruit stand in Moloa‘a, which has great sandwiches and fresh juices, and is an easy pit stop en route to the North Shore. Finally, dinner is a simple noodle bowl at Ama, where you can watch the waterfalls dance off of the mountain.”

ADAM WATTEN chef and owner of Hānai market/restaurant

SOUVENIR POWER MOVE

JAVA KAI

Polishing off a surfer-worthy breakfast here in Kapa‘a is optional.

Either way, make sure you grab a bag of the artfully packaged, small-batch coffee (or the urbanmeets-island-style swag for sale).

The handcrafted roaster churns out offerings including the fullbodied 100% Kauai Yellow Catuai; javakai.com.

DON’T LEAVE BEFORE YOU

EXPLORE WAIMEA CANYON

Known as the “Grand Canyon of the Pacific,” the 14-mile-long gorge on Kaua‘i’s west side is dotted with stunning waterfalls that inspire a serious number of rainbows. Hike the canyon’s trails for up-close views of them; for sweeping vistas—including Waipo‘o Falls—drive to Pu‘u Ka Pele or Pu‘u Hinahina lookouts, both of which have convenient parking.

Waimea Canyon

NAVIGATOR | THE GUIDE Reserve pays off with big ocean vistas, views into a lush rain forest valley, and glimpses of Makamaka‘ole Falls.

Red Sand Beach

SHOPPING STOP The artsy upcountry town of Makawao is home to several boutiques among its historic mercantile buildings. Hit Driftwood for a sophisticated blend of clothing, accessories, and footwear; driftwoodmaui.com.

MEAL OF THE MOMENT

TIN ROOF

The James Beard–nominated chef Sheldon Simeon is changing the culinary game on Maui with his deft take on casual fare featuring a poke bowl, mochiko chicken, and other island classics in a low-key, neighborhood-style joint. Open for lunch only; tinroofmaui.com.

PRIME WATERING HOLE

MONKEYPOD KITCHEN

BY MERRIMAN

THE BEACH-LOVER’S ISLAND

MAUI

Renowned for its 30 miles of gorgeous white, red, and black sand beaches, the second-largest island in the archipelago is also a prime spot for spotting humpback whales NATURAL WONDER

RED SAND BEACH

Save your iPhone battery for plenty of photographs and pack your lightweight hikers. This small cove near Hāna gets its startling, deep rusty hue from a volcanic cinder cone, and its deeply blue waters are just as striking. Fair warning: The hike to Red Sand Beach is strenuous, and the beach itself is clothing optional. (For detailed directions—you’ll need them—go to mauiguidebook.com and search for “Red Sand Beach.”)

CULTURE EXCURSION

‘ĪAO VALLEY STATE PARK

The park (which will reopen December 15 after renovations) is home to the ‘Īao Needle, a 1,200-foot-tall rock outcropping blanketed in lush greenery that’s

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

easily reached on a paved path.

Further, ‘Īao Valley is the site of the 1790 Battle of Kepaniwai— an important win in King Kamehameha I’s campaign to unite Hawai‘i.

SECRET BEACH

MALUAKA BEACH

South Maui’s golden stretch of sand was already a bit of a secret. But now, with the Makena Beach & Golf Resort (which fronted it) closed, the crowds have virtually vanished.

Bonus tip: This beach is also considered one of the prime areas for spotting sea turtles.

KNOCKOUT VIEW

WAIHE‘E RIDGE TRAIL

This dramatic ridgeline hike through the West Maui Forest

Amid the buzzy fun of Wailea, this bar-forward restaurant has everything you want in a hangout: craft beers (many local), an excellent list of wines by the glass, smart cocktails, live music, and lobster deviled eggs; monkeypod kitchen.com.

TOP-NOTCH MAI TAI

MAMA’S FISH HOUSE

If you didn’t plan far enough in advance to score a table at the ever-hot Mama’s Fish House, post up at the retro-perfect bar for the drink they’re best known

Hotel Wailea

INSIDER TAKE

Designing the Perfect Maui Saturday “I start with a workout at Maui Powerhouse Gym in Kīhei, and then make a day of it at Little State Beach in Mākena State Park.

A climb to the top of Pu‘uōla‘i is a must for magnificent views. I’ll have dinner at Hotel Wailea—ahi poke crackers and kampachi crudo, followed by the fish of the day. Finally, I head to Andaz Maui at Wailea Resort for live music, skipping the fruity drinks for a cold glass of Pinot Grigio to beat the tropical heat.”

TIM CLARKE interior designer/owner of Tim Clarke, Inc.

Monkeypod Kitchen

by Merriman

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFF: MONICA & MICHAEL SWEET/GETTY IMAGES, COURTESY OF ALEXANDRE JARAS, COURTESY OF STEVEN CZERNIAK, GREG VAUGHN/ALAMY

DRIFTWOOD

Memories are made around meals.

The Savor card makes them more rewarding.

SM

Earn 3% cash back on dining / 2% on groceries / 1% on all other purchases

āĪĝĜġĬ ęĨĨĪħĮęĤ ĪĝĩĭġĪĝĜ člj ĝĪĝĜ Ěı āęĨġĬęĤ čĦĝ ĀęĦģ ÕēđÿÖ Č ÿ ƣ ! & āęĨġĬęĤ čĦĝ

You probably forgot what you ate.

But you remember everything else.

NAVIGATOR | THE GUIDE

‘Īao Valley State Park

for. And try not to become too attached to those glass tiki goblets they come in; mamasfishhouse.com.

OLD-SCHOOL FAVORITE

ULULANI’S HAWAIIAN SHAVE ICE

This local institution crafts its nearly 50 syrup flavors (including calamansi lime and pickled mango) in-house. Order as the locals do with a scoop of vanilla ice cream, and then take it across the street at Kenolio Beach for a perfect life event; ululanishawaiianshaveice.com.

Make your way to Hawai‘i and save up to 30% on nightly rates, including premium Ocean View rooms.

SWEET SUNSET SPOT

HONOAPI‘ILANI HIGHWAY

Cruise this waterfront stretch between Mā‘alaea and Lahaina, and take your pick of scenic beach pull-offs. Locals promise you’ll have killer sunset views.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT OCEANPROMOTIONHAWAII.COM OR CALL 866-716-8140 AND MENTION OCEAN PROMOTION. ©2017 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Starpoints, SPG, Preferred Guest, Sheraton, Westin, St. Regis, The Luxury Collection, W, Le Meridien, Design Hotels, Tribute Portfolio, Element, Aloft, Four Points and their respective logos are trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

FAMOUS AND WORTH IT

THE ROAD TO HĀNA

It’s a classic for a reason. One-lane bridges and hairpin turns through forests and past waterfalls (mile marker 10 has a swimmable

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

one) make for epic driving and indelible memories. But don’t make the rookie mistake of driving there and back in a day; stay the night in Hāna and explore Haleakalā National Park.

SOUVENIR POWER MOVE

WINGS HAWAII

Samantha Howard and Melody Torres of Wings Hawaii transform crystals, gemstones, and precious metals into striking pieces. Shop the flagship store in Pā‘ia and pick up one (or many) of their blithe “Lucky You” necklaces made from shells and silk threading.

At $9, they’re the ultimate impulse buy; wingshawaiishop.com.

REST YOUR HEAD AT

HOTEL WAILEA

Tucked into the hillside just above the bustle of the beach, Hotel Wailea has 72 rooms spread across 15 lush acres.

Set aside one night for dinner at The Restaurant, Wailea’s elegant island-totable eatery. (Go all-in on sweeping views with a table on the garden terrace.)

Rates start at $489; hotelwailea.com.

COURTESY OF GLENN PARRY

Paradise just got closer

NAVIGATOR | THE GUIDE TOP-NOTCH MAI TAI

LANA‘I CITY BAR & GRILLE

DON’T LEAVE BEFORE YOU

GO OFF-ROAD The view from Kaunolū Village

THE ESCAPIST’S ISLAND

LANA‘I With a sweet little city at its heart and wild terrain throughout, the smallest of the six major islands is big on escape SECRET BEACH

POLIHUA BEACH

Afternoons can be wild and windy, so get up early (and book a fourwheel-drive vehicle) to get the most from this two-mile stretch of secluded beach on the island’s northwest coast.

CULTURE EXCURSION

KAUNOLŪ VILLAGE

sits an otherworldly Hawaiian heritage site high above the sea known more familiarly as the “Garden of the Gods.” Head here at dusk, when the setting sun casts an enchanting glow on the red-tinged boulders, towers, and spires.

SHOPPING STOP

THE LOCAL GENTRY

This favorite fishing camp of King Kamehameha I, on the island’s southern tip, is also the site of Halulu Heiau (a sacred temple), and “Kahekili’s Leap,” a 60-foot sea cliff that warriors once dove from to demonstrate their courage.

Jenna Majkus has just expanded her shop near picturesque Dole Park in Lana‘i City, adding more room for her well-curated selection of island-inspired men’s and women’s clothing and accessories.

Don’t miss the new “Keiki Corner,” with its colorful array of children’s toys; 808/565-9130.

OLD-SCHOOL FAVORITE

MEAL OF THE MOMENT

You can’t go more classic Hawai‘i than a poke bowl. And Lana‘i locals flock to this no-frills market for the most flavorful poke on the island. Weekdays only, so you’ll want to get there when they open the doors at 10:30 a.m. Ohana closes at 12:30 p.m. and often runs out of fish by 11:30; 808/559-6265.

In the luxurious lap of the Four Seasons Resort Lana‘i, this elegant restaurant pairs views of Hulopo‘e Bay with a menu that includes top-shelf sushi, a wide selection of sake, and atmospheric plates like Wagyu beef served on smoldering lava rocks. Sit back and turn your meal over to chef’s choice on the omakase menu, or book a private teppan table for a night’s delicious entertainment at the hands of your personal culinary master; noburestaurants.com.

OHANA POKE MARKET

KNOCKOUT VIEW

KEAHIAKAWELO

Forty-five minutes from Lana‘i City, on the northwest side of the island,

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

Much of Lana‘i can only be reached via rugged dirt tracks. Polaris Guided Tours gets you off paved roads and into towering forests and lush, verdant landscapes.

Unless you have the time (and stamina) to hike this extraordinary island, this is the best way to see its astonishing beauty. Guided tour rates start at $225 (book via the Adventure Center at Four Seasons Resort Lana‘i); fourseasons.com.

SWEET SUNSET SPOT

KAUMALAPAU HARBOR

Drive south to the island’s main commercial seaport (look for views of Lana‘i’s impressive sea cliffs along the way) and find a seat on the stone wall. Take in the show, keeping an eye out for spinner dolphins and migrating whales.

REST YOUR HEAD AT

FOUR SEASONS RESORT LANA‘I

A recent multimillion-dollar renovation of this resort put this once sleepy island on the travel map.

Now, luxury reigns with an immaculate beachfront, lagoon-like pools, and serene, contemporary guest rooms. Even if you’re not a golfer, be sure to check out the resort course’s 12th hole for some of the best views on the island. Rates start at $1,150; fourseasons.com.

INSIDER TAKE

Getting Away From it All on Lana‘i “One of Lana‘i’s assets is her natural beauty, but it can take some effort to appreciate. It’s important to go off the beaten path— literally, by getting out of the car and hiking to areas not commonly seen. I especially like to take visitors to a spot at the western edge of the Kānepu‘u Preserve, where a bowl-like depression opens up to views of Moloka‘i. It is a quiet and peaceful place with no cell service. Instead, you connect with the landscape.”

BRUNO “UNCLE BRUNO” AMBRY aviarist at Four Seasons Resort Lana‘i

Four Seasons Resort Lana‘i

Ohana Poke Market

NOBU LANA‘I

LIKE A LOCAL Dive even deeper into Hawai‘i’s extraordinary beauty and culture at coastalliving.com/hawaii

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: JOE WEST/SHUTTERSTOCK, COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS RESORT LANAI (2), CAROLINA CRAFTON

From their digs in the historic Hotel Lana‘i, bartenders Jacob Baltero and Marcom Pascua blend their take on the classic cocktail with pineapple juice and rum.

It’s fresh and fruity enough that locals and visitors agree it’s among the best on the island; lanaicity barandgrille.com.

THE SOUL SEEKER’S ISLAND

MOLOKA‘I

Considered by many to be the most “Hawaiian” of the islands, this quietly breathtaking place has deep culture, towering sea cliffs, and beautiful beaches

SHOPPING STOP

KALELE BOOKSTORE

MEAL OF THE MOMENT

PADDLER’S RESTAURANT

Locals refer to Paddler’s as “Moloka‘i’s restaurant” for good reason—with its metal-roof dining area, ample bar, and live music, it feels like the only one you need. Don’t be fooled by the oldschool trappings, though: Chef Kainoa Turner’s scratch kitchen puts out plates featuring local ingredients and a burger so good you may decide to order it two nights in a row; paddlers restaurant.com.

The coral reef off Moloka‘i

OLD-SCHOOL FAVORITE

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: RON DAHLQUIST/GETTY IMAGES, SUSAN SUEBERT, COURTESY OF WAILANI TANAKA

KANEMITSU BAKERY

For 90 years, the Kanemitsu family has been serving up buttery creations at their eponymous bakery in Kaunakakai. And while that’s already a good thing, insiders know that the real magic happens Tuesday through Sunday nights at 7:30, when Kanemitsu sells “hot bread”—oversize rolls stuffed with jelly, cream cheese, cinnamon, and sugar—from a stand down an alley behind the bakery. Better than a speakeasy— way better; 808/553-5855.

DON’T LEAVE BEFORE YOU SECRET BEACH

PĀPŌHAKU BEACH

On the island’s western edge lies three miles of unspoiled pale sand, remote even by Moloka‘i standards. It’s not uncommon to have the shore all to yourself.

NATURAL WONDER

THE CORAL REEF

Explore Moloka‘i’s 28 miles of virtually unspoiled coral reef—the largest in Hawai‘i—on a snorkeling expedition with Moloka‘i Fish and Dive—$79 for a three-hour tour; molokaifishanddive.com.

CULTURE EXCURSION

KALAUPAPA

In the 1870s, a missionary priest established a colony for people with Hansen’s disease (leprosy) on this cliff-isolated peninsula.

Father Damien spent the rest of

Kalaupapa

This quirky shop in the center of Kaunakakai is always well stocked with books, but also a charmingly idiosyncratic collection of clothing, jewelry, and artwork. Stop in for the free cups of coffee, but stay for the idle conversation with the locals. It’s the Moloka‘i way; molokaispirit.com.

his life in service to this shunned community (succumbing to the contagious disease himself); the location remains a moving memorial. Kalaupapa is only accessible by boat or plane, or via mule excursion down the cliffs, which includes a guided tour that takes you to the heart of this stark, hauntingly beautiful locale. Rates start at $209; muleride.com.

KNOCKOUT VIEW

HĀLAWA VALLEY FALLS CULTURAL HIKE

This extraordinary excursion isn’t about one payoff view; it’s about magic in every step of the 1½-mile hike to Mo‘oula Falls led by the charismatic cultural leader Greg Solatorio (one of the only Moloka‘i natives to be born and raised in the valley)—$60; halawavalley molokai.com.

MAKE YOUR OWN LEI

Thirty years ago, Richard and Aome Wheeler planted 10 acres of plumeria, the fragrant bloom popularly used in lei. Today you can tour their Moloka‘i Plumeria Farm. Pick flowers as you wander the grounds and staff will help you make your own lei before you leave. Tours are weekdays at 10:30 a.m. and must be booked in advance—$25 per person for tour and lei workshop; molokai plumerias.com.

REST YOUR HEAD AT

HOTEL MOLOKA‘I

The only hotel on the island, this dreamy property has deep charms: an intact aesthetic of mid-1960s Polynesian A-frame architecture, a beachfront location with sunrise and sunset views, a poolside bar, and proximity to town. Rates start at $194; hotelmolokai.com.

INSIDER TAKE

3 Ways to Live Like a Local on Moloka‘i “1. Sit and chat. Talk with the locals to get wind of littleknown spots and learn the rhythms of our laid-back ways.

There’s also a very good chance someone will invite you over for dinner.

2. Embrace kuleana, our responsibility to be stewards of the island. It takes shape by treading gently on our shores and respectfully giving a wide berth to conservation areas.

3. Take it even slower on Sundays. Sunday is all about ‘ohana [family]. Most of our shops close, and we spend the day catching and grilling fish, relaxing, and visiting with friends.”

WAILANI TANAKA apparel line founder/ owner of Something for Everybody Boutique

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

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Blue Hawaiian

Test Pilot

C O A S TA L

TWENTY 2017

Nui Nui

Tiki Drinks Fog Cutter

I L LU ST R AT I O N BY OW EN GATLEY

Scorpion

Singapore Sling

3 Dots and a Dash Planter’s Punch Bahama Hurricane 48

COASTAL LIVING December 2017

VICTOR PROTASIO/PROP STYLING BY KAY E. CLARKE/FOOD STYLING BY MARY CLAIRE BRITTON AND KAREN RANKIN

Unfurl a paper umbrella and set sail on an ocean of rum with these timeless tropical cocktails

Navy Grog

Piña Colada Banana Daiquiri

Lapu Lapu

Mai Tai Rum Runner 151 Swizzle

Deep Sea Diver

Passion Fruit Zombie

RAISE THE BAR Find the recipes for all 20 of these colorful cocktails at coastalliving.com/tikidrinks

Missionary’s Downfall

Painkiller

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

49

the

HOME

of

HULA

BY T R A C E Y M I N K I N

In the mist of legends, the ties between the island of Moloka‘i and Hawai‘i’s ancient dance are deep

Hula on the sacred slopes of Mauna Loa, on Moloka‘i

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

PF BENTLEY

and binding

It begins, says the chant, on Moloka‘i.

Here, in a place called Kā‘ana on the heights of Mauna Loa, lived a woman named La‘ila‘i. Arriving in the 6th century, the Polynesian brought a potent form of storytelling from her home island, one that twined chanting and dance like vines. Her art—the hula—passed through five generations of her family.

Laka, a member of that fifth generation, was inspired to spread the art beyond her island home. Around 1100 A.D. she set out on her own voyage, teaching hula to the people of every island in the archipelago. She returned home finally, and is buried in Kā‘ana.

More than nine centuries later, three young women dance a hula that tells Laka’s story on those same sacred grounds. As the kumu hula—their leader, Elsie Ryder— chants and drums, the dancers speak with their bodies: bare feet that ply the grass, legs that crouch low and rise like the swell of a wave, knees that pull together in a rhythmic counterpoint beneath their plain skirts, bare arms that stretch up to skies and mountaintops, and hands that hold detail in their precise movements. As they step and gesture, their eyes gaze out to the horizon, sweep the ancestral lands of their patron saint, and look back to a past they summon today.

They dance the story of the birth of hula.

“The hula linked the imagination with the islands’ legendary past,” writes Jerry Hopkins in his history, The Hula. Spawned in legends that vary from island to island, the hula captured its own early history

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

51

Ka‘imikaua happened upon a 92-year-old woman who spied the inheritor of her wisdom. They spoke, and Ka‘imikaua trained with her for three years. He learned and retained her chants of hula and Moloka‘i, and in 1977 founded his own hālau, Hālau Hula O Kukunaokalā, dedicated to hula kahiko. In 1991, he created the festival to honor Moloka‘i as the home of hula.

The deeply charismatic Ka‘imikaua died in 2006 before his 48th birthday, and the gaping hole still resonates. “His knowledge was infinite,” says Madonna Dizon, Danielle’s grandmother, who still dances with the hālau. “There was so much more to learn from him,” says Elsie Ryder, who studied with Ka‘imikaua since her own teen years and has assumed the mantle of guiding the hālau, teaching, and chanting with several other longtime members. “We stay together, we do it together,” she says.

And so every year, members of hālau from Hawai‘i, mainland America, and foreign

“It’s about a story we are trying to tell.

It’s about the history of the hula” also endured—slipping away from 19thcentury Calvinists’ missionary glare and into rural homes, passing down quietly through generations, and enjoying a renaissance since the 1970s among Hawaiians reclaiming their cultural practices.

“It’s not about a show,” says Danielle Gantz, one of the trio who has danced Laka’s story on the bluffs in a reverent opening to Moloka‘i Ka Hula Piko, an annual festival that celebrates traditional hula on this quietest of Hawaiian islands. “We’re not trying to move our hips and swing our long hair,” she says. “It’s about a story we are trying to tell.

It’s about the history of the hula.”

The women connect to that history through their hula hālau—schools of hula that have evolved over centuries from complex social orders. Their original kumu hula was also the founder of this festival that focuses on Moloka‘i as the piko—the navel, or center—of the form, and its birthplace.

The story has the glow of legend. In the 1970s, an O‘ahu teenager named John

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countries fly to tiny Moloka‘i to share their hula at a small public park. But it’s the opening ceremony high on the bluffs of Mauna Loa that resonates most. Dancers and guests hike out to Laka’s sacred place, make offerings at shrines, hear stories. In hushed stillness, the crowd watches the young women dance Laka’s story to Ryder’s chant.

And Gantz does her best to honor—to inhabit—that legacy. John Ka‘imikaua coached his students to dance with the fluidity of water and the spark of fire. Through hundreds of hours of exacting practice, each hula dancer strives for this seamless connection to his or her story, and to the natural world that informs it. “You can learn the dance,” says Gantz, “but you have to perfect it.” It’s in this perfection, she’s learned, that the dancer becomes her story.

Ryder knows this challenge well. “It takes a lot of love, dedication, and commitment to master it,” she says. But when you do?

“You become your ancestors,” she says.

“You become the wind.”

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: COURTESY OF PHILIP SPALDING III/KA HULA PIKO, PF BENTLEY (5), DESIGN PICS INC/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

through its chants—oli—that evoke epic poetry in their sweep and length. (Chanted by memory, oli can run hundreds of lines and can take hours to complete.)

Those early Hawaiian stories tell of dynasties, wars, and love. But with the invasion of Western explorers beginning with British sea captain James Cook in 1778 (a milestone known as “contact”), the hula begins a long chapter of being judged and manipulated by outsiders. The centuries following Western contact fill with waves of misunderstanding, suppression, commercialization, and debasement at the hands of explorers, missionaries, big business, and Hollywood. Even today, the hula—along with other elements of Hawaiian culture—remains besieged by romanticism and ignorance.

In many ways hula has adapted to these relentless forces, and its modern iteration, hula ‘auana, is a beautiful, tourist-pleasing entertainment. But hula kahiko, the ancient hula maintaining its many sacred rules, has

Hula on Moloka‘i, clockwise: Renowned kumu hula John Ka‘imikaua and a dancer at Moloka‘i Ka Hula Piko; a dancer seeking to inhabit her story; young dancers at Moloka‘i Ka Hula Piko; a sunlit moment on Mauna Loa; the focus of dancers; the barefoot connection to Earth; kumu hula Elsie Ryder on Mauna Loa’s sacred ground

GO, SEE, LEARN Moloka‘i Ka Hula Piko occurs in early summer every year on the island, and is a fitting lens through which to view this extraordinary place that has retained much of its authentic culture. For more information on the festival (and hula), go to kahulapiko.com.

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SURFER SURFER’S S PARADISE What do you get when you mix an avid kitesurfer, a classic-leaning architectural designer, and a 1940s plantation along Maui’s North Shore?

A midcentury hideaway that is as true to its island history as the salty breezes running through it

For an updated spin on Maui’s trademark light green plantation houses, the owner painted the newly renovated beach house a custom dark gray-green.

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MAINTAIN ISLAND SIMPLICITY The renovation’s less-is-more credo is on full display in the bungalow’s airy kitchen, where creamy white cabinetry, globe pendants, and concrete countertops come together for a pretty, understated look. “This is one area where we didn’t do a ton,” homeowner George Hensler says. “We incorporated simple but sophisticated ideas that felt right by the ocean.”

BY CAROLINE MCKENZIE PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID TSAY STYLING BY RACHAEL BURROW

Homeowner George Hensler

INVITE THE OCEAN INSIDE Hensler and Sosa updated the bungalow dining area with floor-to-ceiling windows and sliding doors, which allow for abundant natural light. They open to the porch, offering a front-row seat to the ocean. The nearly alfresco space is outfitted with a custom pegged table and a set of antique Parisian bistro chairs.

ou might say George Hensler goes where the wind blows. The retired fashion executive from Sausalito, California, took up windsurfing 30 years ago and, though he’s since switched to kitesurfing, he’s been chasing the gusts and swells ever since. This eventually led him to the North Shore of Maui, which is considered the “wind mecca,” says Hensler. “Years ago, the area’s trade winds led sugar barons to take up residence here—it kept them nice and cool. Now it just provides a fun activity for guys like me.” Soon he was spending weeks at a time there, bouncing from one rental to another. That was until he found a 1940s plantation (a leave-behind of those sugar barons) a mere 40 feet from water’s edge.

He hired Roberto Sosa, an architectural/interior designer with the New York and L.A. firm OBRA. Sosa instantly connected with Hensler’s desire for a sophisticated overhaul of the property’s bungalow— simple, organic updates that would allow the architecture to shine. “I like what I like,” Hensler says.

“Not everyone can channel someone else’s ideas, but Roberto and I made a great creative team.” They retooled the floor plan, chose materials like native ‘ōhi‘a wood that hold true to the Hawaiian vernacular, designed sliding doors for additional light and more expansive views, and even designed many of the furnishings themselves in the style of French midcentury visionaries Charlotte Perriand, Serge Mouille, Jean Royere, and Pierre Jeanneret. Newly created outdoor rooms, like dining and lounge pergolas, are designed to help shift everyday activities outdoors, amid native foliage like coconut palms, ironwood trees, and bougainvillea. Here are more of Hensler and Sosa’s keys to turning the old plantation into an outdoorsman’s oasis, while holding on to every inch of its 1940s character.

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STRETCH OUT OUTDOORS To utilize all of the wraparound porch, Sosa and Hensler incorporated an outdoor living room with a pair of angular teak Pierre Jeanneret chairs and a modernist-inspired sofa they designed themselves. “The average high in Maui is low 80s in the winter and high 80s in the summer, so it’s a ‘stay outside all day, every day’ kind of spot,” Hensler says.

INCORPORATE VINTAGE DETAILS Sosa brought the porch-like feel into the master bedroom by cladding the walls with horizontal wood paneling. “It helped the interiors feel more in line with vernacular design,” he explains. Adding in even more textural detail is a simple sea-grass headboard and groovy black sconces by Serge Mouille, which help break up the room’s horizontal lines.

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USE MOTHER NATURE’S PRIVACY FENCES “The greenery throughout the plantation makes you feel very remote,” says Hensler of the dense naupaka, lilies, and heliconia. And with the beach house only a stone’s throw from the water, the property is bordered on all sides by spectacular elements from Maui’s island landscape.

STICK TO EARTH COLORS Hensler used grassy-hued glazed tile as a jumping-off point in a secondary kitchen. The cerused oak cabinetry has square cutouts in lieu of cabinet hardware, an idea Sosa picked up from designer Thomas O’Brien when he worked with him at Aero (O’Brien’s firm). Equally novel are the sheets of rubber Sosa used on the countertops. “I love it because it’s incredibly durable,” Hensler says. “You can put a hot pan right on it—I’ve done it!—and it’s softer than stone.”

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LIVING ON ISLAND TIME Let our favorite island rooms inspire you to create a tropical escape at home at coastalliving.com/islandstyle

STRIKE A MOD/MELLOW BALANCE Sosa sketched this low-slung sofa on site to perfectly fit the space and serve as a cozy spot to lounge, with custom cotton cushions softening up the teak foundation. It ties in other wooden elements of the living room, including a raw-wood table and a cool vintage surfboard that was crafted by a California student as a high school project in the 1960s.

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BUILD IN THE BASICS

ROCK AN OUTDOOR SHOWER

KEEP EXTERIOR SPACES IN SYNC

WORK WITH WHAT YOU HAVE

Top, left: Despite the small square

Top, right: The simplest “room”

Bottom, left: Practicality is a

Bottom, right: “The bathroom

footage and low eaves in this loft

might also be the most beloved.

must, even in paradise. For a

was tough—there was so little

bedroom, smart storage—like a

The outdoor shower, enclosed

breezy transition between the

space and plenty of weird

built-in bed and nightstands

with teal-green lattice and a

water and interior, Sosa designed

angles, so we just had to make

made from Northern California

canopy of ironwood trees, is

this screened porch to serve

everything work wherever it

fir—gives the space plenty of

outfitted with an unlacquered

as an entryway-cum-landing

landed,” explains Sosa, who

breathing room. The bamboo

brass faucet that achieved its

zone. “We painted it the same

designed triangle windows

matting on the ceiling is skimmed

green-brown color in about a

green as the exterior so it would

with brass hopper hinges to

with a coat of plaster to create a

day. “Patina comes fast in

relate better to the exterior

send natural light into the

layer of killer texture overhead.

Hawai‘i,” Sosa notes.

rooms,” says Sosa.

quirky space.

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GET AN OUTSIDE PERSPECTIVE “In Hawai‘i you don’t want to be stuck inside, no matter how nice the house is,” says Hensler. This breezy dining area is one of two outdoor rooms the team created to extend the living spaces into the fresh air. Its pergola design ensures plenty of tropical foliage peeks through.

THE RETURN OF P O LY N E S I A N P O P

Vintage hula figures at Honolulu’s LayLow hotel; Waikīkī Beach (opposite)

It wasn’t invented in Hawai‘i, but the mid-20th-century movement defined mainland America’s vision of island life. And it’s back.

MEG LUKENS NOONAN and photographer JULIEN CAPMEIL scour the beaches, streets, and alleyways of Honolulu for its original— and brand-new—outposts

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I

walk onto the dark sand with my sandals dangling from one finger. The mai tai has gone straight to my head. It’s been decades—four, in fact—since I stood here watching the waves break blue in the lights from the Waikīkī hotels, since I saw the black bulk of Diamond Head against the night sky. I know things have changed: The Tahitian Lanai is gone; the Polynesian Palace is gone; Don the Beachcomber, gone. As kitschy as they could be, it’s hard not to feel nostalgic about the lost landmarks of the midcentury aesthetic known as Polynesian Pop. Myself, I was late to the beach party. By the time I arrived as a college student in the late ’70s, the bamboo torches and flaming Scorpion bowls were sputtering out. But I loved what remained.

And while tastes changed over the years, that golden, goofy era still has a powerful pull—and not only on me, it turns out. These days, Honolulu is awash in nostalgia.

Mixologists are crafting complex homages to classic tiki cocktails. Architects, designers, and artists are finding inspiration in midcentury tropical mod. Vintage aloha shirts, souvenir mugs, and hula nodders are hot items at island thrift shops. Elvis may have left the lū‘au, but Polynesian Pop lives on, drawing me back to my old Honolulu haunts to honor the old—and celebrate the new.

It’s tricky to adore something that felt Hawaiian to me in my youth but in fact was anything but. (Some islanders were and continue to be offended by the secular use of sacred images such as carved tiki idols.) The movement didn’t even begin in the islands, but in California. In the 1930s, two rival restaurants, Don the Beachcomber in Hollywood and Trader Vic’s in Oakland, set off a mainland craze for rum cocktails and faux-Polynesian decor. It took a decade for those chains to open in Honolulu, bringing “back” to Hawai‘i a version of itself. The cultural graft, an idealized exoticism of the South Seas, thrived. The bars spawned similarly themed restaurants, nightclubs, and hotels; when improved air travel in the early 1960s made the newly minted 49th state more accessible, tourists descended, expecting the Bali Hai of their dreams. Waikīkī—Honolulu’s beachy neighborhood that formed the epicenter of the archipelago’s tourism—was eager to please.

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What better place to begin to reconnect and examine this legacy, I think, than at Waikīkī’s emblematic Royal Hawaiian hotel? A glamorous (and stunningly pink) resort since 1927, the hotel built a new beachfront bar in 1953 and commissioned Trader Vic’s Victor Bergeron to craft a signature cocktail for it. Tweaking a recipe he’d served since 1944, Bergeron created the pineapple juice–based Royal Mai Tai, which quickly became the island standard. And that is precisely the drink I’ve just finished at that very bar, watching the surfers catch their last rides of the day, before heading down the beach, sandals in tow.

Then it’s off to another Polynesian Pop landmark, the International Marketplace. The original Marketplace was a landscaped, thatched-roof maze of Pacific Island–themed shops and legendary nightspots opened in 1957 by Donn Beach, the founder of Don the Beachcomber. Inside the three-story open-air luxury mall that replaced it last year, I spy the Marketplace’s landmark—a giant banyan tree—and am swept back to the 1970s. I bought a puka-shell necklace (was there anything cooler?) in the shopping bazaar shaded by these very branches. For a moment I am 19 again—salt in my hair, sun-kissed, in love with everything this tropical world offered my Boston-bred soul.

The sweetly ramshackle kiosks and storefronts were torn down, but the tree still stands, hemmed in now by incongruously luxe neighbors: Tesla, Brunello Cucinelli, Christian Louboutin. I seek comfort at a new bar in the Marketplace I’ve been told pays homage to Donn Beach. It’s called The Myna Bird, a nod to the chattering black bird (and pesky invasive species) that greeted patrons at Don the Beachcomber and to Michael Mina, the San Francisco

Clockwise from top, far left: Mai tai magic at The Royal Hawaiian’s classic beachfront bar; a glimpse of Waikīkī Beach; the iconic pale pink facade of The Royal Hawaiian hotel; a hotter shade of pink surrounding a Royal Hawaiian pool; the legendary banyan tree that continues to anchor (and shade) the International Marketplace

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restaurateur who opened the bar and other eateries in the upscale food court. I’m wary on approach, but the little bamboo bar has an elaborate throwback cocktail menu and theatrical bartenders serving drinks in great-looking tiki mugs. I feel my resistance melting. And when I taste my Low Tai’d—made with local Kō Hana agricole rum and Velvet Falernum liqueur (one of Beach’s secret ingredients)—I’m soothed. And feel the stealthy grip of nostalgia once again.

Is it possible that everything old can be new again? I head to once-dingy Kūhiō Avenue, lately the focus of developers for its ripe-for-renovation midcentury buildings, to the new LayLow hotel, my Don Draper–worthy digs. Its Hawaiian Modern decor—low sofas, bamboo hoop chairs, rattan ottomans—is inspired by the work of Vladimir Ossipoff, the Russian-American architect best known for his works in Hawai‘i. On my balcony overlooking the Waikīkī lights, I strum a few notes on a ukulele (every guest room comes with one) and marvel at the reverberations here.

In the morning, I set out to shop, looking for vintage and modern takes on Polynesian Pop’s best-loved icons. Stop one: Bailey’s Antiques and Aloha Shirts, a low-rise pink stucco building almost a half-mile inland from Waikīkī’s

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east end, packed to the rafters with more than 15,000 aloha shirts—from $10 hand-me-downs to coveted, rare 1940s and ’50s classics that can fetch $1,000 or more. The earliest aloha shirts date to the late 1920s, when Honolulu tailors stitched them using Japanese kimono fabric. By the mid1930s, local textile designers and manufacturers were creating their own with homegrown tropical prints.

“Knowledge is king in this business,” says David Bailey, the shop’s 73-year-old ponytailed owner, who began amassing his shirt collection at swap meets in the 1980s. He offers some vintage-spotting wisdom: Coconut-shell buttons, double-needle seaming, and yellowed embroidered labels are hallmarks of authentic midcentury shirts. I eye a rack of garish ’60s and ’70s models that range from $40 to $200.

“Good investment,” he says. “There’s room for appreciation with those.” For a moment, I fantasize about cornering the market on tropical-mod threads, going from Etsy to bricks

Clockwise from far left: Midcentury interiors (plus ukulele) at the new LayLow hotel; a splendid riot of aloha style at Bailey’s Antiques and Aloha Shirts; old-school barbering at Golden Hawaii Barbershop; vintage postcards at Surf ‘N Hula Hawaii; clothing designer Roberta Oaks; a neat stack of retro-cool shirts at Oaks’s boutique in Honolulu’s Chinatown neighborhood

and mortar, hauling my husband to Hawai‘i for our next chapter as retail gurus of Polynesian Pop. The islands do that a person— make you crazy for a way to stay.

Next, it’s pure collectibles at Surf ‘N Hula Hawaii near the Queen Theater in Honolulu’s Kaimukī neighborhood. The shop is a Technicolor compendium of Hawaiiana: vintage matchbook covers, airline bags from Pan Am and Hawaiian Airlines, hulagirl lamps, porcelain bobbleheads, culturally questionable prints of jolly Hawaiian children, and even full-size surfboards. I hear that local celebrity chef Ed Kenney bought a wooden spoon here that he uses to make risotto, which feels like a blessing on the shop’s complex abundance. I’m tempted by a vintage longboard surfing trophy—just the thing, perhaps, for my mantel—but the realities of shipping costs (and the size of my mantel) assert themselves. I leave with a geologist’s vision of the strata of Polynesian Pop and then, just around the corner, spot yet another layer: the just-opened Golden Hawaii Barbershop, a pitch-perfect re-creation of a midcentury barbershop—vintage Koken chairs, barber pole, and all. Then it’s off to Chinatown, perhaps the city’s most up-and-coming retro haven.

My first stop is Roberta Oaks’s airy little boutique in the heart of the revitalized shopping district. Oaks, a lanky 38-year-old

Missourian who moved to Hawai‘i in 2004, taught herself to make clothes on a garage-sale sewing machine. The hobby blossomed into a business when, on a whim, she put out a rack of her funky reconstructed vintage dresses at an art show and sold them all. Oaks, a fan of midcentury design (she recently sold her 1969 Valiant), converted her workroom into a retail shop in 2009, and shortly after switched her focus to menswear. “I wanted to do aloha shirts, something fresh,” she says. “I got my ideas from watching downtown businessmen walk by.” Her line of slimmer-fit shirts sell out regularly to a younger market looking to blend nostalgia with the fitness-forward silhouettes of modern life. I imagine Draper himself, were he back in Honolulu for a 2017 walkabout, seeing the future in it all. And buying from Oaks, as well.

The new Turks of Polynesian Pop here in Chinatown are all making savvy plays on what stole a nation’s heart more than a half century ago. Sig on Smith, a new pop-up shop open only on Fridays, sells special-edition shirts from Sig Zane Designs, a beloved Hilo-based designer of hip,

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Clockwise from left: Graphic artist Nick Kuchar (and Lucy!) taking an inspiration break at the beach; Kuchar’s vintage-inspired prints; artist Mike “Gecko” Souriolle in his bungalow hut built with salvaged pieces of original Polynesian Pop; Waikīkī’ Beach’s surf scene from above; tiki barware on display at La Mariana Sailing Club; Souriolle’s highly collectible tiki carvings

clean-lined prints based on Hawaiian culture. Tin Can Mailman is a gussied-up version of Surf ‘N Hula, crammed with midcentury Polynesian Pop ephemera, including menus, ads, and matchbooks. Barrio Vintage, a sunny shop with a trove of bright ’60s and ’70s tropical wear, confers the resurgent power of the bold and the brazen.

That evening, I stop in for a drink at Arnold’s Beach Bar, a cheap and cheerful tiki dive with potent $5 drinks, hidden in an alley off Waikīkī’s main drag. Then I walk up Kūhiō to the Surfjack Hotel and Swim Club, with its easygoing 1960s cabana vibe. At Ed Kenney’s Mahina & Sun’s restaurant, just off the hotel’s courtyard pool, I settle onto a banquette upholstered in a vintage Tori Richard aloha-shirt print and dive into Kenney’s locally sourced comfort food: Kualoa Ranch oysters, ahi tartare on risotto cakes (I know where you got that spoon, Ed), dark-chocolate butter mochi.

On my last day, I dig a little deeper to meet the artists who are driving the new aesthetic. I head out west of Honolulu to Ewa Beach and meet 36-year-old graphic artist Nick Kuchar, whose travel prints caught my eye in The GreenRoom, a Honolulu surf- and beach-art gallery.

He tells me his first piece was created in 2010 at the request of his wife, who wanted some vintage-inspired artwork to hang on their wall. Eventually his beachy, desaturated prints gained a following through an online shop; Hawaiian, Japanese, and European art galleries; and collaborations with Patagonia, Walden surfboards, and others. When he gets stuck on a project, he drives his turquoise 1964 VW bus to the beach and goes surfing. “I try to stay true to what I

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like,” he says. It feels like a mission statement with value far beyond the realm of graphic design.

I leave the coast and drive into the hills of Makakilo, where Mike “Gecko” Souriolle makes tiki mugs and Polynesian Pop art sought after by international collectors.

The soft-spoken, Philippines-born 48-year-old conducts business in a bungalow he built with salvaged pieces from Trader Vic’s and the Hawaiian Hut, a Polynesian-revue nightclub that went dark in 2008. Gecko (one-name monikers are standard in the tiki-artist world) shows me some spectacular recent work, including two intricately carved surfboards he found abandoned on the North Shore.

Gecko has famously created carvings and mugs for La Mariana Sailing Club, O‘ahu’s last original tiki bar and a de facto museum of shuttered landmarks from that golden age. On the shores of the Ke‘ehi lagoon, a few miles west of Waikīkī, it’s the perfect place to end my tour. From my marina-side seat, I see koa tables from Don the Beachcomber, carved totems from Sheraton’s Kon Tiki room, woven lauhala matting from the Tahitian Lanai, puffer-fish lamps from Trader Vic’s. Some of the older patrons look like they may themselves have been fixtures at those places back in the lovely, palmy days. The dark-rum floater in my mai tai sloshes over a bit as I lift the glass. I pause to steady it and give a silent salute to the palaces and patrons of Polynesian Pop, and to my former puka shell– wearing self. We are gone; we are here. We are right at home.

Meg Lukens Noonan is the author of The Coat Route: Craft, Luxury and Obsession on the Trail of a $50,000 Coat (Spiegel & Grau), a globe-trotting exploration of high-end bespoke tailoring. She lives in New Hampshire.

GET HERE Several airlines fly nonstop from major cities into Honolulu’s Daniel K. Inouye International Airport.

STAY HERE The landmark beachfront, 528-room Royal Hawaiian, a Luxury Collection Resort, celebrated its 90th birthday in 2017.

Rates start at $385; royal-hawaiian .com. The breezy, midcentury-mod, 251-room LayLow, part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection, is a fiveminute walk from Waikīkī Beach.

Rates start at $299; laylowwaikiki .com. For cheeky retro-cool (and Ed Kenney’s food) a few blocks from the beach, check in at the 112-room Surfjack Hotel & Swim Club. Rates start at $187; surfjack.com.

DRINK HERE The Mai Tai Bar at The Royal Hawaiian serves seven versions of its namesake cocktail.

The Myna Bird at the International Marketplace divides its extensive drink list by region; try the Low Tai’d and the Splintered Paddle, from the Pacific Rim collection. Arnold’s

Beach Bar & Grill serves up $5 mai tais all day. No, your GPS is not wrong: The 60-year-old La Mariana Sailing Club really is in a forlornlooking industrial area, but the mai tais, Zombies, and epic tiki decor make it well worth the hunt.

SHOP HERE Bailey’s Antiques and Aloha Shirts is the world’s largest trove of vintage shirts in a wide range of prices. Surf ‘N Hula Hawaii has several rooms of colorful island collectibles and antiques; Roberta Oaks sells sharp-fitting aloha shirts and easy-to-wear day dresses, plus island-made accessories and home goods. Sig on Smith, open Fridays only, is Sig Zane Designs’s first shop on O‘ahu. Tin Can Mailman is jammed with vintage Hawaiian books, clothing, and collectibles.

Barrio Vintage curates a changing inventory of men’s and women’s tropical wear. The GreenRoom Hawaii gallery in the International Marketplace showcases surf- and beach-inspired artwork.

BY CHRIS HUGHES RECIPES BY ROBBY MELVIN PHOTOGRAPHS BY GREG DUPREE TYPE ILLUSTRATION BY NICK KUCHAR

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PROP STYLING BY MINDI SHAPIRO LEVINE; FOOD STYLING BY EMILY NABORS HALL

It’s not all poke and lūa‘u (although there’s plenty of that, as well); eating in Hawai‘i is a wideranging cultural cross-pollination.

From brilliant ahi tuna to the zest of sour plums, here’s how to dine like a Hawaiian, from A to Z

The most pristine ‘ahi (the Hawaiian word for tuna) can now be overnighted to your door courtesy of Honolulu Fish.

Founded by a marine biologist and presided over by sashimi experts, this chef favorite specializes in sushi-grade, hookcaught fillets hand-selected each morning at the Honolulu fish market; honolulufish.com.

B

In Hawai‘i, bread means Portuguese sweet bread.

And the man who made it a household name, particularly on the mainland, is Robert R. Taira.

What began as a tiny Hilo bakery in the 1950s soon expanded to Honolulu’s King Street, and now 400,000 square feet of baking facilities in Torrance, California, and Oakwood, Georgia— all within two decades. It’s still a family business; a third generation of Tairas has made the fluffy sweet bread an American staple, with King’s Hawaiian now the No. 1 branded dinner roll in the United States.

The Cantonese char siu

C

method of preparing barbecued pork has wider applications in Hawai‘i, where everything from chicken to wild game is marinated in the soy-based sauce (often with honey, hoisin sauce, and Chinese five-spice)

BAKERY: COURTESY OF KING’S HAWAIIAN

and cooked over fire.

Char Siu Baby Back Ribs, recipe p. 78

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Native to Central and South America, dragon fruit is increasingly being grown in Hawai‘i, Thailand, and other places with tropical climes. The two most common types have bright red skin, and flesh that tastes like a cross between a kiwi and a pear.

E

The dish that has come to epitomize Hawaiian platelunch cuisine is also a poster child of the current put-an-egg-on-it culinary moment. A twist on Salisbury steak, loco moco typically consists of a fried egg balanced atop a mountain of hamburger and sticky rice saturated in brown gravy.

F A dried blend of seaweed, sesame seeds, fish flakes, salt, and other seasonings, furikake (which literally translates to “sprinkle over”) is often served on rice or sushi rolls, and in party mix.

Short-Rib Loco Moco, recipe p. 78

G

Hormel claims its

Honolulu native Ravi Kapur is one of the brightest minds in a new crop of young chefs redefining Hawaiian food on the mainland. At his Liholiho Yacht Club in San Francisco, the food and decor deliberately shies away from the expected (think housemade “Spam” and a dearth of tiki torches), but the restaurant mantra remains “Get Jag,” island slang for “hang loose.”

most famous creation, Spam, was named from the combination of the words “spice” and “ham.” First released in 1937, Spam developed a worldwide following when 100 million pounds were shipped to Allied troops during World War II. But it was U.S. sanctions restricting deep-sea fishing industries, mainly run by JapaneseAmericans at the time, that made it such an integral source of protein in Hawai‘i. Following the war, a wave of Korean and Japanese immigrants helped cement Spam’s status in Hawaiian cuisine with contributions like musubi, a cooked slab of Spam

PORTRAIT: COURTESY OF MEDIUM RAW ARTS; SHAVE ICE: COURTESY OF ANGIE NELSON

on a block of rice bound with nori.

I

Unlike a snow cone, Hawaiian shave ice, purchased at roadside stands like Ululani’s on Maui, is ground to a powdery texture that better holds syrups in flavors both sweet (cherry) and tangy (liliko‘i).

JICAMA SALAD WITH MANGO AND HEARTS OF PALM SERVES 4 | ACTIVE 15 min. | TOTAL 1 hour, 15 min.

Originally brought over by Spanish colonialists, jicama has been embraced by Hawaiians for adding a water chestnut–like crunch to sushi and salads. ¼ ¼ 2 1½ ¾ ¼ 1 1 1 ½ 1 1 ½ ½

cup fresh lime juice (from 2 limes) cup extra-virgin olive oil Tbsp. apple cider vinegar Tbsp. honey tsp. table salt tsp. black pepper medium jicama, peeled and cut into matchsticks (about 3 cups) mango, peeled and chopped (14.4-oz.) can hearts of palm, drained and rinsed cup thinly sliced red onion (from 1 red onion) red Fresno chile, seeded and thinly sliced ripe avocado, cut into ¾-inch pieces cup chopped fresh mint cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

Whisk together lime juice, oil, vinegar, honey, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Add jicama, mango, hearts of palm, red onion, and chile slices; toss to coat.

Cover and chill 1 to 8 hours. Gently stir in avocado, mint, and parsley just before serving.

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K Cultivated on the slopes of the Hualālai and Mauna Loa volcanoes of the Big Island, Kona coffee’s unique growing conditions (high elevation, mineralrich soils) yield some of the world’s best and priciest beans.

plantation workers in the late 19th century, linguiça is now ubiquitous in Hawai‘i. Today’s slightly sweeter style can be found in soups and pastries, and even on local McDonald’s menus.

Get your fix from Hawaiian purveyors such as Rego’s Purity, which ships throughout the United States; regospurity.com.

Another Portuguese import, malasadas are holeless doughnuts enriched with butter, eggs, and sometimes milk. Although typically only rolled in sugar, variations include those filled with custard or haupia, a kind of coconut pudding.

N Nori—dried, edible seaweed sheets— make their way into a number of Hawai‘i’s favorite snack foods, including popcorn and Spam musubi.

Coconutglazed Malasadas, recipe p. 79

Pineapple Fried Rice with Spam, Shrimp, and Cashews, recipe p. 79

Today, 75 percent of the world’s pineapples comes from Indonesia, Thailand, and the Philippines, but the fruit (actually a number of berries that have fused together) is

In 1955, Ernest Morgado cooked chicken

Q

sandwiched between two grills, a setup that eliminated the need to flip each piece of meat. The original teriyaki-style BBQ

still associated with Hawai‘i

sauce slathered on top he dubbed huli-huli,

because of its market dominance in

a Hawaiian word for “turn.” Morgado

the 19th century. For a real treat, try

soon began bottling his sauce,

the super sweet Maui Gold variety,

eventually trademarking

grown exclusively on the slopes of

the name in

Haleakalā; pineapplemaui.com.

1986.

The majority of the world’s rum now comes from Latin America, but enterprising brands like O‘ahu’s Kō Hana are trying to bring Hawai‘i back to its rum-producing heyday, between 1874 (when bans on rum distillation were lifted) and the mid-20th century; kohanarum.com.

O Hawaii’s only native spirit, ‘ōkolehao, is a sweet and earthy ti-root moonshine that fell out of favor in the mid-20th century. Now Dave Flintstone of O‘ahu-based Island Distillers is helping to bring it back using ancient recipes found in archived newspapers. His Hawaiian Moonshine can already be found in chic cocktail bars like the Hula Grill Waikiki, or you can order a bottle online at islanddistillers.com.

Macadamia-Rum Panna Cotta, recipe p. 78

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

75

S

Shoyu chicken is a Hawaiian plate-lunch favorite that consists of chicken marinated or simmered in shoyu, garlic, sugar, and other spices.

SHOYU FRIED CHICKEN WITH MOCHIKO BATTER TOTAL 4 hours, 20 min.

1 (13.5-oz.) can coconut milk, well shaken and stirred ½ cup shoyu sauce (soy sauce) 2 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2-inch pieces 1 cup (about 5 oz.) mochiko flour (sweet rice flour) ¼ cup cornstarch 2 Tbsp. sesame seeds 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar 2 tsp. garlic powder 2 tsp. ground ginger 1 tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. black pepper ½ cup mayonnaise 2 Tbsp. sambal oelek (ground fresh chile paste) 1 tsp. fresh lime juice (from 1 lime) Peanut oil ½ cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves ¼ cup thinly sliced scallions (from 2 scallions) Dash of furikake

1. Whisk together coconut milk and shoyu in a large bowl. Add chicken pieces, stirring until coated and submerged. Cover and chill 4 hours or overnight.

2. Stir together mochiko flour, cornstarch, sesame seeds, sugar, garlic powder, ginger, salt, and pepper in a large bowl. Set aside.

3. Whisk together mayonnaise, sambal, and lime juice in a small bowl. Cover and chill.

4. Pour peanut oil to depth of 2 inches in a large Dutch oven over medium-high, and heat to 360°F. Using tongs, remove chicken pieces from marinade, letting excess liquid drip off, and dredge in mochiko mixture. Cook chicken, in batches, in hot oil until crispy and cooked through, about 6 to 7 minutes. Place on a plate lined with paper towels. Sprinkle with cilantro leaves, scallions, and furikake; drizzle with about 1½ tablespoons of the mayonnaisesambal sauce, and serve with remaining sauce.

U

Sea urchins harbor one of the ocean’s most decadent bites: uni, the briny, buttery reproductive glands located inside the urchin’s spiny endoskeleton.

76

COASTAL LIVING December 2017

Taro, a staple of the Native Hawaiian diet, has a number of culinary uses. But the starchy tuber is best known for poi, a singular Hawaiian dish made from cooked, mashed, and fermented taro root.

V Jim and Tracy Reddekopp’s Hawaiian Vanilla Company in Pa‘auilo is a pioneer in the vanilla trade, having launched the first commercial operation in the United States. Nearly two decades in, the Reddekopps’ farm is producing pods that can compete with the Madagascars and Tahitis of the world; hawaiianvanilla.com.

PORTRAIT AND SANDWICH: CLOCKWISE FROM TOP, LEFT: COURTESY OF HAWAIIAN VANILLA COMPANY/GABRIEL RODRIGUEZ FARM: COURTESY OF THE REDDEKOPP FAMILY PHOTO ARCHIVE (2)

SERVES 6 ACTIVE 20 min.

Y Closely related to king mackerel, wahoo has a firm texture, moderate oil content, and sweet-tasting flesh prized by both island chefs and sportfishermen.

WAHOO POKE SERVES 8 ACTIVE 15 min.

TOTAL 2 hours, 15 min.

⅓ cup thinly sliced scallions (2 to 3 scallions) plus more for serving ¼ cup shoyu (soy sauce) 2 Tbsp. sesame oil 2 Tbsp. crushed wasabi peas, plus more for garnish 1 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 1 lime) 2 tsp. rice vinegar 2 tsp. finely crumbled nori (dried seaweed) 1 tsp. grated fresh ginger ½ tsp. crushed red pepper 1 lb. fresh wahoo (ono) fillet, cut into ¾-inch cubes 1 ripe avocado, cut into ¾-inch pieces 1 (6-oz.) pkg. taro chips (such as Terra) ¼ cup thinly sliced radishes (from 2 to 3 radishes) 1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds Whisk together scallions, shoyu, sesame oil, wasabi peas, lime juice, vinegar, nori, ginger, and crushed red pepper in a large bowl. Place cubed wahoo into marinade, and stir to coat. Cover and chill 2 hours. Stir, and add avocado just before serving; gently toss. Serve on taro chips topped with radish slices, toasted sesame seeds, scallions, and crushed wasabi peas.

X

Yams and sweet potatoes are not the same thing.

Yet most of the “yams” we eat are simply mislabeled sweet potatoes— including in Hawai‘i, where sweet potato varieties include the Iliua, Hoolehua Gold, and purple-fleshed Okinawan.

Yam Yakitori with Pineapple Glaze, recipe p. 79

Whether spiking fresh fruit, shave ice, or gummy bears, Hawaiians love li hing mui, a salty, sour zest made from salted dried plums and licorice.

If you’re eating Xiphias gladius (swordfish), chances are it came from Hawai‘i. Most American wholesalers acquire their inventory for domestic and export sales from the Honolulu Fish Auction, where some of the world’s best bigeye tuna and mahi-mahi are also on display.

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77

CHAR SIU BABY BACK RIBS

SHORT-RIB LOCO MOCO

7. Remove lid and parchment paper. Transfer

SERVES 6 ACTIVE 15 min.

TOTAL 6 hours, 45 min.

SERVES 6 ACTIVE 25 min.

TOTAL 16 hours, 25 min., including 12 hours

ribs to a serving platter, gently remove bones, and discard; cover with aluminum foil to keep warm. Skim fat from cooking liquid in Dutch oven, and pour liquid through a fine wire-mesh strainer into a large bowl; discard solids. Reserve cooking liquid for gravy.

¾ ½ ½ ¼ 3

cup hoisin sauce cup (4 oz.) dark rum cup soy sauce cup honey Tbsp. sambal oelek (ground fresh chile paste) 2 Tbsp. dark sesame oil 2 Tbsp. minced fresh ginger 2 tsp. minced fresh garlic 2 tsp. Chinese five-spice 2 tsp. onion powder 2 tsp. red liquid food coloring 2 slabs baby back pork ribs (about 4 lb.), paper-like skin removed 1½ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. black pepper Chopped fresh chives

1. Whisk together hoisin, rum, soy sauce, honey, sambal, sesame oil, ginger, garlic, five-spice, onion powder, and food coloring in a medium bowl, reserving ¼ cup.

2. Place ribs in a large ziplock plastic bag.

(You may need more than 1 bag, and you may need to cut ribs in half.) Add hoisin mixture, seal tightly, and rub to coat. Chill at least 4 hours or overnight.

3. Prepare a charcoal grill to medium (350°F to 400°F), by piling charcoal on 1 side of grill and leaving other side empty. (For gas grill, light only 1 side.) Remove ribs from bag, and discard marinade. Sprinkle salt and pepper over ribs, and place slabs on unlit side of grill, stacking 1 on top of the other. Grill, covered, 40 minutes. Rotate slabs, moving bottom slab to top; grill, covered, 40 minutes. Rotate again; grill, covered, 40 minutes.

4. Decrease grill temperature to 300°F to 350°F (medium); place slabs side by side on unlit side of grill. Baste with reserved ¼ cup sauce. Grill, covered, 30 minutes, basting with sauce occasionally.

Remove from grill; let stand 10 minutes before cutting.

5. Cut slabs into individual ribs, and sprinkle with chives; serve immediately.

chilling BEEF SHORT RIBS 4 lb. bone-in beef short ribs 1 Tbsp. kosher salt 1½ tsp. black pepper 4 cups lower-sodium beef broth 1½ cups packed dark brown sugar 1 cup lower-sodium soy sauce ⅓ cup rice vinegar 1 Tbsp. Sriracha chili sauce ¼ cup olive oil, divided 1 large yellow onion, chopped 4 garlic cloves, smashed 1 (2-in.) piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced 1 bay leaf 3 flat-leaf parsley sprigs 3 cilantro sprigs CARAMELIZED-ONION GRAVY ¼ cup unsalted butter 1 cup diced yellow onion (from 1 onion) ¼ cup all-purpose flour 2½ cups reserved cooking liquid from Beef Short Ribs ½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. black pepper ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS Coconut Rice (recipe follows) Fried egg (optional)

1. Prepare the short ribs: Sprinkle ribs on all sides with salt and pepper; cover and chill 12 to 24 hours.

2. Let ribs stand at room temperature

8. Prepare the gravy: Heat butter in a medium saucepan over medium. Add onions, and cook, stirring occasionally, until tender and golden brown, about 10 minutes.

Sprinkle flour over onions, and cook, stirring constantly, until flour is golden brown, about 2 minutes.

9. Gradually whisk in reserved cooking liquid. Cook, stirring often, just until mixture comes to a boil and is smooth and thick, about 5 minutes. (If mixture is too thick, add up to 1 cup remaining reserved cooking liquid, ¼ cup at a time, until mixture reaches desired consistency.) Season with salt and pepper. Serve with short ribs and Coconut Rice. If desired, top with a fried egg.

COCONUT RICE SERVES 6 ACTIVE 5 min.

TOTAL 25 min.

2 cups water 1 (13.6-oz.) can coconut milk, well shaken and stirred 1¾ cups uncooked long-grain rice ½ tsp. kosher salt Bring water and coconut milk to a boil in a large saucepan over medium-high; stir in rice and salt. Cover, reduce heat to low, and simmer until liquid is absorbed and rice is tender, about 20 minutes.

30 minutes.

3. Preheat oven to 300°F. Whisk together broth, brown sugar, soy sauce, vinegar, and Sriracha in a medium saucepan. Bring broth mixture to a boil over high. Reduce heat to medium, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until reduced to 2 cups, 12 to 15 minutes.

4. Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high. Place half of the ribs in hot oil, and cook until browned on all sides, about 3 minutes per side. Repeat with remaining oil and ribs. Transfer ribs to a plate, and discard drippings.

5. Pour broth mixture in Dutch oven, and bring to a boil over medium-high. Place ribs in Dutch oven. Add onion, garlic, and ginger, nestling them around ribs; add bay leaf and parsley and cilantro sprigs. Place a piece of parchment paper directly on ribs and herbs, and cover Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid.

6. Roast in preheated oven until meat is tender and pulls away from bone, about 2 hours and 30 minutes to 3 hours. Remove from oven, and let stand, covered with parchment and lid, 30 minutes.

MACADAMIA-RUM PANNA COTTA SERVES 8 ACTIVE 15 min.

TOTAL 8 hours, 25 min.,

including 8 hours chilling 2½ tsp. unflavored gelatin (from 1 envelope) 3 Tbsp. cold water 2 cups plain whole-milk yogurt 2 tsp. macadamia nut extract 3 cups heavy cream, divided ¾ cup granulated sugar 3 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. dark rum, divided ½ cup jarred caramel sauce Fleur de sel

1. Sprinkle gelatin in cold water in a small bowl. Stir and let stand 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, whisk together yogurt, macadamia extract, and 1½ cups of the cream in a large bowl. Heat sugar and remaining 1½ cups cream in a small saucepan over medium; bring to a simmer, stirring until dissolved.

Remove from heat; stir softened gelatin into

HAWAIIAN HOLIDAY Learn how to whip up a true tropical feast with our Hawaii-inspired holiday menu at coastalliving.com/hawaiiholiday

hot cream mixture until dissolved. Pour hot cream-gelatin mixture and 3 tablespoons of the rum into yogurt mixture, and stir until blended. Divide custard among 8 (4-ounce) ramekins, and chill, uncovered, until thoroughly chilled, about 30 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap, and chill 8 hours or overnight.

3. Heat caramel sauce with remaining 2 teaspoons rum in a small saucepan over low until warm, about 1 minute. Cool slightly, and spoon a thin layer of caramel rum sauce on each custard; sprinkle with fleur

COCONUT-GLAZED MALASADAS SERVES 24 ACTIVE 25 min.

TOTAL 2 hours, 25 min.

2 Tbsp. hot water (115°F) 1 (¼-oz.) envelope active dry yeast ½ cup granulated sugar, divided 3 large eggs ½ cup whole milk ½ cup half and half 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted 1 tsp. kosher salt 4 cups (about 17 oz.) bread flour, sifted Canola oil Coconut Glaze (recipe follows)

1. Combine water, yeast, and 1 teaspoon of the sugar in a bowl, and let stand until foamy, about 10 minutes; set aside. Beat eggs in bowl of a heavy-duty electric stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment on medium speed until fluffy, about 2 minutes.

Add yeast mixture, milk, half and half, butter, salt, and remaining sugar; beat until combined. Gradually add flour; beat until dough is smooth, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a lightly greased bowl, and cover loosely with plastic wrap; let rise in a warm place (80°F to 85°F), free from drafts, until doubled in size, about 1 hour and 30 minutes.

2. Grease 2 parchment paper–lined baking sheets. On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 12-inch square about ½ inch thick. Using a knife, cut dough into 2-inch squares; gather and reuse scraps. Place on prepared baking sheets 3 inches apart; cover loosely with plastic wrap, and let stand in a warm place (80°F to 85°F) until doubled in size, about 30 minutes.

3. Heat 2 inches of oil in a 6-quart saucepan over medium-high to 350°F. Using scissors, cut paper around each malasada, leaving about 1 inch of paper around sides of each.

(The paper makes it easier to transfer to frying oil.) Working in batches, place malasadas in hot oil, paper side up, using tongs to peel off and discard paper. Cook until puffed and

golden, 2 to 3 minutes, flipping once.

Transfer to a wire rack set inside a baking sheet; let cool completely, about 20 minutes. Dip each malasada in Coconut Glaze; serve immediately.

COCONUT GLAZE MAKES about ½ cup ACTIVE 5 min.

3. Add soy sauce, fish sauce, sesame oil, cooked shrimp and Spam, and ½ cup diced pineapple. (Reserve remaining pineapple for another use.) Cook, stirring constantly, until shrimp and Spam are heated through, about 1 minute. Serve fried rice in scooped out pineapple halves, and top with chopped cashews and green scallion slices.

TOTAL 5 min.

1½ 3 1 1

cups (6 oz.) powdered sugar Tbsp. whole milk Tbsp. fresh lemon juice (from 1 lemon) tsp. coconut extract

Whisk together all ingredients in a bowl until smooth.

PINEAPPLE FRIED RICE WITH SPAM, SHRIMP, AND CASHEWS SERVES 4 ACTIVE 25 min.

TOTAL 35 min.

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided ½ tsp. kosher salt 8 oz. small raw shrimp, peeled and deveined 1 (7-oz.) can Spam, diced ½ cup diced carrots (from 1 large carrot) 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 tsp. finely minced fresh ginger 4 scallions, thinly sliced (white and green parts divided) 2½ cups cooked long-grain white rice 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 2 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. fish sauce 1 tsp. sesame oil 1 large pineapple, cut in half lengthwise, inside scooped out and diced ¼ cup toasted, salted cashews, roughly chopped

1. Heat 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high.

Sprinkle salt over shrimp, and add to skillet.

Cook until pink, about 3 minutes, turning once; transfer to a plate. Add Spam to skillet, and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned, 3 to 4 minutes; transfer to a plate.

2. Heat remaining 1 tablespoon vegetable oil in skillet over medium-high; add carrots, and cook until tender, about 5 minutes. Add garlic, ginger, and white scallion slices, and cook, stirring constantly, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add rice, and stir to combine. Cook until rice is crisp, about 2 to 3 minutes. Push rice mixture to 1 side of skillet; add eggs to other side. Cook eggs, stirring constantly and gradually working into rice mixture, until set, 1 to 2 minutes.

YAM YAKITORI WITH PINEAPPLE GLAZE SERVES 4 ACTIVE 20 min.

TOTAL 40 min.

2 lb. small fingerling sweet potatoes (about 6 [7- x 1½-in.] potatoes) ½ cup pineapple juice ½ cup mirin ¼ cup sake ¼ cup soy sauce 2 tsp. light brown sugar 8 (8-in.) wooden skewers, soaked in water 30 minutes 1 Tbsp. olive oil ½ tsp. kosher salt ¼ tsp. black pepper ¼ cup thinly sliced scallions (from 2 scallions)

1. Preheat oven to 425°F. Pierce potatoes several times with a fork. Arrange in a single layer in a rimmed baking sheet, and bake in preheated oven until just tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack; cool completely, about 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, combine pineapple juice, mirin, sake, soy sauce, and brown sugar in a small saucepan over medium, and simmer, stirring often, until thickened, 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove from heat; set aside.

3. Peel sweet potatoes, and cut crosswise into 1-inch pieces, discarding ends.

4. Preheat grill to medium (350°F to 400°F).

Skewer sweet potato pieces. Brush with oil, and sprinkle with salt and pepper; grill, uncovered, 3 minutes. Brush with some of the pineapple glaze, and continue grilling, turning every 2 to 3 minutes and brushing with glaze after each turn, until charred on both sides. Transfer to a serving platter, and sprinkle with scallions; drizzle evenly with ¾ cup of the pineapple glaze. Serve immediately with remaining glaze.

December October 2017 COASTAL LIVING

79

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Poke in the morning? See how Honolulu does breakfast PAGE 88

BOUNTY What to serve friends and family

GATHER

A Happier Holiday Set your clock to island time and count down to the new year with party appetizers that taste like the tropics

Menu PROP STYLING BY MINDI SHAPIRO LEVINE; FOOD STYLING BY EMILY NABORS HALL

Pineapple-Tamarind Ham, p. 82 Firecracker Shrimp With Sweet Chili–Lime Dipping Sauce, p. 82 Purple Sweet Potato Latkes with Tobiko, p. 82 Sweet Portuguese Rolls, p. 82 Macadamia-Coconut Dip, p. 84 Edamame-Avocado Hummus, p. 84 Spiced Rum Balls, p. 86 Togarashi-spiced Snack Mix, p. 86

R E C IP E S BY R O B IN BAS H INS KY

P H OTO GRAP HS BY GR EG DU PR EE

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

81

BOUNTY | GATHER

PINEAPPLE-TAMARIND HAM SERVES 16 ACTIVE 15 min.

TOTAL 2½ hours

1 (6- to 8-lb.) unglazed, cooked, spiral-sliced ham 1 cup pineapple preserves ¼ cup canned pineapple juice ¼ cup tamarind paste 2 tsp. black pepper

1. Preheat oven to 300°F. 2. Wrap ham in aluminum foil, and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake until warmed through, about 1½ to 2 hours. Pull back foil from ham.

3. Whisk together preserves, pineapple juice, tamarind paste, and pepper in a small bowl. Baste ham with one-fourth of pineapple preserves mixture. Bake ham, uncovered, basting with pineapple preserves mixture every 10 minutes, until glazed, about 30 minutes. Remove from oven, and let rest 5 minutes. Serve ham with any remaining pineapple preserves mixture.

Stack 12 spring-roll wrappers, and cut them in half diagonally to make 24 triangles; cover wrappers with a damp kitchen towel to keep them from drying out.

4. Working with 1 triangular wrapper at a time, place 1 shrimp on 1 narrower corner of wrapper, with tail of shrimp extending beyond edge. Top shrimp with ½ tablespoon pork mixture. Brush opposite corner with cornstarch mixture. Tightly roll wrapper once over shrimp and pork. Fold the middle point of the triangle over shrimp and pork; finish rolling to seal. Repeat procedure with remaining wrappers, shrimp, and pork mixture.

5. Pour oil to depth of 2 inches into a 6-quart Dutch oven. Heat oil over mediumhigh to 350°F.

6. Meanwhile, stir together chili sauce, lime juice, remaining 1 tablespoon soy sauce, and cilantro in a small bowl.

7. Fry shrimp, 5 or 6 at a time, in hot oil until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Using chopsticks or long tongs, transfer shrimp to wire rack set on a rimmed baking sheet. Let drain 1 minute. Serve hot with chili sauce mixture.

FIRECRACKER SHRIMP WITH SWEET CHILI–LIME DIPPING SAUCE

PURPLE SWEET POTATO LATKES WITH TOBIKO

SERVES 12 ACTIVE 45 min.

TOTAL 45 min.

SERVES 12 ACTIVE 45 min.

TOTAL 1 hour, 5 min.

24 peeled and deveined jumbo raw shrimp, tails on (about 1½ lb.) ⅔ lb. ground pork 1½ tsp. grated fresh peeled ginger 1½ tsp. grated garlic (about 3 garlic cloves) 1 scallion, finely sliced (about ¼ cup) 1 red Fresno chile, seeded and minced 1 large egg white, lightly beaten 3 Tbsp. soy sauce, divided 2 Tbsp. cornstarch, divided 3 Tbsp. water 1 (11-oz.) pkg. 8-inch thin wheat-flour spring-roll wrappers Peanut oil ½ cup sweet chili sauce (such as Mae Ploy) 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 3 limes) 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh cilantro

1. Cut a ¼-inch-deep slit lengthwise into inner curved side of each shrimp using a small knife, being careful not to cut through shrimp. (This keeps shrimp from curling during frying.) Place in a medium bowl.

2. Using your hands, combine pork, ginger, garlic, scallion, chile, egg white, 2 tablespoons of the soy sauce, and 1 tablespoon of the cornstarch in a separate medium bowl.

3. Whisk together water and remaining 1 tablespoon cornstarch to make a thin paste.

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COASTAL LIVING December 2017

1 lb. purple sweet potatoes, peeled and grated ⅓ cup potato starch 3 scallions, thinly sliced (about ⅓ cup) 2 serrano chiles, seeded and finely chopped 2 large eggs, lightly beaten 1½ tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. black pepper ¾ cup coconut oil ½ cup sour cream ¼ cup red tobiko (flying fish roe) (from 1 [3-oz.] container) 1 Tbsp. very thinly sliced chives

1. Combine potatoes, potato starch, scallions, chiles, eggs, salt, and pepper in a large bowl, stirring until well blended.

2. Heat ¼ cup oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high until shimmering. Spoon 8 (2-tablespoon) portions into skillet, flattening each portion into a 1½-inch disk.

Cook until crisp, about 4 minutes. Turn and cook until crisp, 3 to 4 more minutes. Drain on paper towels. Keep latkes warm in a single layer on a baking sheet in a 175°F oven. Repeat process twice with remaining oil and potato mixture.

3. Place warm latkes on a serving platter.

Top each with 1 teaspoon sour cream and ½ teaspoon tobiko. Sprinkle with chives.

SWEET PORTUGUESE ROLLS SERVES 16 ACTIVE 30 min.

TOTAL 3 hours, 40 min.

2½ cups (about 8½ oz.) all-purpose flour ½ cup (about 2¾ oz.) potato flour 6 Tbsp. (3 oz.) unsalted butter, softened ⅓ cup granulated sugar 2 (¼-oz.) pkg. instant-rise yeast (4½ tsp.) ½ cup milk 5 large egg yolks ¼ cup plus 1 Tbsp. water, divided 1½ tsp. kosher salt Cooking spray 1 large egg, lightly beaten 2 Tbsp. pretzel salt

1. Combine flours, butter, sugar, and yeast in the bowl of a heavy-duty stand mixer fitted with a dough hook attachment. Beat on low until very well combined, about 1 minute. Add milk, egg yolks, and ¼ cup of the water. Increase speed to high, and beat 3 minutes. Add kosher salt; beat until dough starts to come together, 1 minute.

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, and knead until a supple, shiny dough forms, about 3 minutes. Shape dough into a ball, and place in a large bowl coated with cooking spray, turning to grease dough.

Cover bowl with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place (80°F to 85°F), free from drafts, until doubled in bulk, about 1½ hours.

2. Divide dough into 16 equal (2-ounce) portions. Roll each into a ball. Place in a 9-inch metal baking pan coated with cooking spray. Cover with plastic wrap, and let rise in a warm place (80°F to 85°F), free from drafts, until very puffy, about 1 hour.

3. Preheat oven to 325°F. 4. Whisk together egg and remaining 1 tablespoon water. Remove plastic wrap from rolls, and brush tops of rolls with egg mixture; sprinkle with pretzel salt. Bake in preheated oven until golden brown and a thermometer inserted into center of rolls registers 190°F, 30 to 35 minutes.

Cool in pan on a wire rack 10 minutes.

Remove from pan, and serve immediately.

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BOUNTY | GATHER

MACADAMIA-COCONUT DIP SERVES 12 ACTIVE 10 min.

TOTAL 15 min.

1 (5-inch) French baguette, split lengthwise 1 cup toasted macadamia nuts 1 large garlic clove ½ cup olive oil ½ cup solidified coconut cream from canned coconut milk 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice (from 1 lime) 2 tsp. kosher salt ½ tsp. Aleppo pepper Assorted vegetables (such as sugar snap peas, carrots, radishes, endive, cucumber, and cherry tomatoes) Scoop out bread from each baguette half to equal about 2 cups, discarding bread shell. Place bread and water to cover in a bowl; soak bread 1 minute.

Squeeze excess water from bread.

Process bread, nuts, and garlic in a food processor until finely chopped.

Add oil, solidified coconut cream, lime juice, and salt; process until smooth.

Transfer to a large serving bowl.

Sprinkle with Aleppo pepper, and serve with assorted vegetables.

EDAMAME-AVOCADO HUMMUS SERVES 12 ACTIVE 10 min.

TOTAL 15 min.

2 cups refrigerated shelled edamame (1 [9-oz.] container) ½ cup loosely packed fresh cilantro leaves (from 1 bunch) ¼ cup olive oil ¼ cup tahini (sesame paste) ¼ cup fresh lime juice (from 3 limes) 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil ½ Tbsp. Sriracha chili sauce 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. grated fresh ginger 1 medium-size ripe avocado, peeled (about 6 oz.)

1 tsp. white sesame seeds 1 tsp. black sesame seeds Assorted vegetables (such as sugar snap peas, carrots, radishes, endive, cucumber, and cherry tomatoes) Process edamame, cilantro, olive oil, tahini, lime juice, sesame oil, Sriracha, salt, ginger, and avocado in a food processor until smooth. Transfer mixture to a large serving bowl. Sprinkle with sesame seeds, and serve with assorted vegetables.

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COASTAL LIVING

BOUNTY | GATHER

TOGARASHI-SPICED SNACK MIX SERVES 8 ACTIVE 15 min.

TOTAL 1 hour, 30 min.

5 cups rice cereal squares (such as Rice Chex) 3 cups popped popcorn 2 cups regular shrimp cracker fries (such as Nongshim) 1 cup macadamia nuts ¾ cup packed light brown sugar 6 Tbsp. (3 oz.) salted butter 3 Tbsp. light corn syrup 2 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. nanami togarashi (such as S&B) 1 tsp. kosher salt 1 tsp. baking soda 1½ cups wasabi peas (from 1 [4.23-oz.] pkg.)

1. Preheat oven to 300°F.

SPICED RUM BALLS SERVES 12 | ACTIVE 20 min. | TOTAL 3 hours, 30 min., including 3 hours chilling

6 ½ 6 1

oz. gingersnaps (about 12 cookies) cup toasted macadamia nuts Tbsp. (about 1½ oz.) powdered sugar Tbsp. lime zest, plus 1 Tbsp. fresh juice (from 1 lime), divided 5 Tbsp. (2½ oz.) spiced rum (such as Captain Morgan) 2 Tbsp. light corn syrup 1 cup toasted unsweetened flaked dried coconut, crushed

1. Process cookies in a food processor until fine crumbs form; transfer crumbs to a large

86

COASTAL LIVING December 2017

bowl. Pulse nuts in food processor until finely chopped. Add chopped nuts, powdered sugar, and lime zest to cookie crumbs, stirring until blended. Combine rum, corn syrup, and lime juice in a small bowl, and stir into cookie mixture until well blended. Cover and refrigerate 10 minutes. Shape mixture into 24 (1-inch) balls. Refrigerate in an airtight container until firm, about 3 hours.

2. Place coconut in a shallow bowl. Roll balls in coconut, and serve immediately or refrigerate until ready to serve, up to 3 days.

3. Cook sugar, butter, syrup, and soy sauce in a small saucepan over medium, stirring occasionally, until mixture comes to a boil, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Reduce heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring often, until sugar is completely dissolved, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Remove from heat, and quickly stir in togarashi, salt, and baking soda.

Pour syrup mixture over popcorn mixture, stirring gently until well coated.

4. Spread popcorn mixture in a single layer on a parchment paper–lined rimmed baking sheet. Bake in preheated oven until lightly golden, 25 to 30 minutes, stirring after 15 minutes.

Transfer baking sheet to a wire rack, and let cool completely, about 15 minutes. Pour mixture into a medium serving bowl, and stir in peas. Serve immediately, or store in an airtight container up to 3 days.

PERFECT PAIRINGS Every appetizer has its ideal cocktail mate—find matches made in happy-hour heaven at coastalliving.com/cocktails

DRESS: ZOE’S IN FOREST PARK; FACEBOOK.COM/ZOESHOPBHAM

2. Combine cereal, popcorn, shrimp cracker fries, and macadamia nuts in a large bowl.

Sources: 2016 Survey, Pew Research Center; Simmons Research, Multi-Media Engagement Study, Spring 2016.

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BOUNTY | FOODWAYS

POKE OMELET SERVES 4 | ACTIVE 50 min. | TOTAL 1 hour, 5 min.

POKE

After a life on the move, the food and community of Honolulu gave Lee Anne Wong a reason to stay

BY C H R I S H UGH E S

has spent the majority of her chef career on the go, whether cooking in Oaxaca and Japan or traveling for Top Chef—first as a contestant, and then as a supervising culinary producer.

Even when she overcame her wanderlust and settled down in New York, the selfdescribed “culinary polyglot” found herself pursuing positions like executive chef of event operations at the French Culinary Institute, where she was able to host a visiting who’s who of the culinary world (Ferran Adrià, Thomas Keller), “never,” she says with pride, “having to make the same thing twice.”

But in 2013, Wong decided to take a break from the relentless traveling and TV appearances, so she packed up her life and moved to Honolulu. In Hawai‘i, Wong fell in love, reacquainted with family, and opened Koko Head Cafe—a celebrated brunch spot serving comfort dishes that reflect the inventiveness the chef has become known for, including her friedpoke omelet, an original dish first conceived at home with leftovers in her fridge.

“When people ask me if I’m going to stay in Hawai‘i, my answer is simple,” Wong says. “On my days off, I get to do things people save their whole lives to experience. Even on crappy days, there’s a double rainbow in the sky.”

LEE ANNE WONG

88

COASTAL LIVING December 2017

OMELETS 12 1 1 ¼ 4

large eggs cup half-and-half tsp. kosher salt tsp. black pepper Tbsp. unsalted butter

MASAGO AÏOLI ½ 1 3 2 1 1

cup Kewpie mayonnaise (3½-oz.) container masago roe Tbsp. Sriracha chili sauce Tbsp. rice vinegar tsp. granulated sugar Tbsp. sesame oil

ADDITIONAL INGREDIENT 2 Tbsp. furikake

1. Prepare the poke: Stir together shoyu, mirin, miso paste, sugar, sesame oil, and Sriracha in a large bowl until well blended.

Add fish pieces; toss to coat. Chill 1 hour.

medium-high to 350°F.

3. Drain poke pieces, discarding marinade. Place cornstarch, ao nori, and rice cracker bits in 3 separate bowls. Toss marinated poke pieces in cornstarch, and then dredge in ao nori. Dredge coated pieces in rice cracker bits. Fry in 2 to 3 small batches in hot oil until just cooked, about 2 minutes per batch. Drain on paper towels; sprinkle with salt.

4. Prepare the omelets: Vigorously whisk together eggs, half-and-half, salt, and pepper until well blended.

5. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a small nonstick skillet over medium-high, and pour in one-fourth of the egg mixture (about 1¼ cups). As egg mixture starts to cook, gently lift edges of omelet with a spatula, and tilt pan so uncooked portion flows underneath, cooking until almost set, about 5 minutes. Tip finished omelet open-faced onto a clean plate. Repeat with remaining butter and egg mixture.

6. Prepare the masago aïoli: Whisk together Kewpie mayonnaise, roe, Sriracha, rice vinegar, sugar, and sesame oil until smooth. Transfer to a squeeze bottle, and keep refrigerated until ready to use.

7. To serve, place 2 to 3 ounces of cooked poke on 1 side of each open-faced omelet.

Drizzle each with 1½ tablespoons of masago aïoli. Fold each omelet over poke, and sprinkle each with about ½ tablespoon furikake. Serve immediately.

JESSICA SAMPLE (2)

Paradise City

2. Heat canola oil in a Dutch oven over

1½ Tbsp. shoyu (soy sauce) 1½ Tbsp. mirin 1½ Tbsp. white miso paste (such as Saikyo Shiromiso) 1 Tbsp. granulated sugar 2 tsp. sesame oil 1 tsp. Sriracha chili sauce 1 lb. fresh fish fillets (such as mahi-mahi), diced into ¾-in. pieces 2 cups canola oil ½ cup cornstarch 1 Tbsp. ao nori (dried seaweed flakes) ¼ cup masago arare (rice cracker bits) 1 tsp. kosher salt

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SOURCES

FROM HAWAI‘I, WITH LOVE page 13: Swimsuit, J.Crew; jcrew.com. Umbrella (customized with trim/star), Pier 1 Imports; pier1.com. Lulu Tote, Indego Africa, indegoafrica.org. Chaise, IKEA; ikea.com VINTAGE ALOHA SHIRTS page 26: Grasscloth courtesy of Thibaut; thibaut design.com.

CABIN FEVER! page 29: Architects Greg Warner, Clark Sather, and Amadeo Bennetta, Walker Warner Architects; walkerwarner.com. Interior designers Marion Philpotts-Miller and Ginger Lunt; philpotts.net. Builder Link Vaughn, Maryl Group; maryl.com. Landscape architect David Tamura, David Y. Tamura Associates, Inc. Throughout: Door, window, and trim in Onyx, sliding doors in Tea, and interior walls in White Heron, Benjamin Moore; benjaminmoore.com. Exterior, page 29: Shingles, Atlas International; atlas.com.

Pool deck, page 30: Chaises, Warisan; warisan.com. Chaise fabric, Perennials; perennialsfabrics.com. White tables, Gervasoni; gervasoni1882.it. Umbrella, Tuuci; tuuci.com. Dining room, page 30: Picnic table and benches, Wilkinson Woodworks. Dining chairs, Red Egg; redegg .com. Dining chair cushions, Opuzen; opuzen.com. Fans, Modern Fan Company.

Living room, page 31: Sea Cloth lounge chair cushion fabric, Lee Jofa; leejofa.com.

Coffee table, Wilkinson Woodworks and Apaiser (apaiser.com). Rug, Indich; indich collectionhawaii.net. Lamp, Design Within Reach; dwr.com. Sofa cushion fabrics, Perennials and Full Swing Textiles (now closed). Lounge chairs, vintage. Artwork, Makaha Art Gallery (now closed). Frame, Papali Woodworks; 808/848-9939. Sofa platform, dining table, and benches, Wilkinson Woodworks. Outdoor dining area, page 32: Stools, Fong Brothers; fong brothers.com. Cushions, Perennials. Kitchen, page 32: Island in Saguaro, SherwinWilliams; sherwin-williams.com. Stools, McGuire Furniture; mcguirefurniture.com.

Kolekole hale bedroom, page 33: Bed frames, Schoolhouse Electric & Supply Co.; schoolhouse.com. Box-spring fabric, Tin Can Mailman; tincanmailman.net. Interior artwork, Mayumi Oda; mayumioda.net.

Interior light fixtures, Rejuvenation;

rejuvenation.com. Adirondack Chairs, Loll Design and Design Within Reach. Bedding, Pine Cone Hill; annieselke.com. Red guest bedroom, page 33: Headboard, Wilkinson Woodworks. Bedding, Pine Cone Hill.

Nightstand, Place; placehawaii.com. Throw pillows, Raoul Textiles; raoultextiles.com.

SURFER’S PARADISE page 54: Architectural designer Roberto Sosa, OBRA; obra design.com. Interior design, George Hensler and Roberto Sosa. Exterior, page 54: Table, custom Hensler/Sosa design. Chairs, IKEA; ikea.com. Surfboard, Pome Maui; pomemaui .com. Turkish towel, Turkish-T; turkish-t.com.

Kitchen, page 55: Cabinetry and shelving, custom Hensler/Sosa design. Rug, Surya; surya.com. Dining room, pagse 56–57: Walls in White Dove, Benjamin Moore; benjaminmoore.com. Rug, Loloi; hayneedle .com. Jean Royère lighting and French bistro chairs, vintage. Outdoor living room, page 57: Sofa, custom Hensler/Sosa design.

Small gray and green pillows, Lacefield Designs; lacefielddesigns.com. End table, Jeffan for Target; target.com. Pierre Jeanneret chairs, vintage. Master bedroom, page 57: Headboard, West Elm; westelm .com. Jean Royère wall sconce, vintage.

Shoes, Carrie Forbes; carrieforbes.com.

Kitchen 2, page 58: Boneyard Brick backsplash in Sour Apple, Trikeenan Tile; trikeenan.com. Living room, pages 58–59: Sofa platform, custom Hensler/Sosa design.

Sofa cushions, Puka Puka; pukapuka.tv.

Pouf, House of Cindy; houseofcindy.com.

Loft bedroom, page 60: Pillows, Target.

Nightstands, custom Sosa design. Outdoor shower, page 60: Turkish towels, Turkish-T. Bath, page 60: Boneyard Brick wall tile in Silk, Trikeenan Tile. Outdoor dining room, page 61: Chair pillow, Lacefield Designs.

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COASTAL LIVING (ISSN 10971165) is published 10 times a year (Jan/Feb, March, April, May, June, July/Aug, September, October, November, December) by Time Inc. Lifestyle Group, 4100 Old Montgomery Highway, Birmingham, AL 35209. Volume 21, Issue 10. PRINTED IN THE USA. Periodicals postage paid at Birmingham, AL, and additional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send all UAA to CFS. (See DMM 507.1.5.2.) Non-Postal and Military Facilities: Send address corrections to Coastal Living Magazine, PO BOX 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40110178. Return undeliverable Canada address to: Postal Stn A, PO Box 4015, Toronto, ON M5W2T2. GST#81996300RT0001. Title “Coastal Living” is a trademark of Time Inc. Lifestyle Group. © 2017 Time Inc. Lifestyle Group. COASTAL LIVING cannot be held responsible for any unsolicited material. U.S. subscriptions: $20 for one year. Please allow 6–8 weeks for shipment on new subscriptions. Allow 6–8 weeks for changes of address. Your bank may provide updates to the card information we have on file. You may opt out of this service at any time. IF YOU NEED HELP CONCERNING YOUR SUBSCRIPTION, CALL OUR TOLL-FREE NUMBER, 888/252-3529 (except Alaska or Hawaii), or write “COASTAL LIVING” SUBSCRIBER ASSISTANCE, PO BOX 62120, Tampa, FL 33662-2120. Customer Service Online 24/7: coastalliving.com/customerservice.

December 2017 COASTAL LIVING

013069

COVER: Volkswagen Bus, The Hawaiian Photo Bus; thehawaiianphotobus.com.

Surfboard, Poipu Surf; poipusurf.com.

Tropez Paisley Pareo in Marigold, Echo; echodesign.com. Swimsuit, Target; target.com.

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These statements have not been evaluated by the Food & Drug Administration.

This product is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease.

When I Went To

MAUI

…

Aloha Kahelelani Shell Bracelet, from $350 (handmade, each piece will vary, custom orders also available); niihaushell-leis.com

Ni‘ihau shells (called kahelelani shells when found on other islands) are among the most prized shells in Hawai‘i.

Collected from the shoreline one at a time, these tiny, gem-like shells are hand-sewn into lei necklaces, bracelets, and earrings.

Find them in shops across Hawai‘i, or online—just check the provenance of any Ni‘ihau jewelry before purchasing. (Many retailers offer certificates of authenticity.)

96

COASTAL LIVING December 2017

… I Brought Home

NI‘IHAU SHELLS A week into my stay in Pā‘ia, I had yet to find the perfect memento of my time in this colorful Maui beach town. One afternoon, I followed a throng of tourists past Pā‘ia’s shops and boutiques, where locals hawked their handmade wares. Tan surfers on their way to the beach passed through the crowds of vacationers. I wandered into a shop selling wooden bowls, glass-blown art, and other tchotchkes: Another dead end, I thought.

I was about to hit the street again when a glass case of coral- and peach-colored shells caught my eye. Inside lay mesmerizingly intricate earrings, bracelets, and necklaces made from shells found on Ni‘ihau, a privately owned island that is sparsely populated and almost completely isolated from the outside world. Artisans have been sewing these lei by hand for hundreds of years, and the difficult-to-find shells that make up each of them are considered blessings. Sold. Mahalo, Ni‘ihau. —Style Editor Rachael Burrow

SHARE YOUR SOUVENIRS WITH US! For a chance to be featured, email a photo and a short description of a treasured object you picked up on a coastal vacation to steele@coastalliving.com

ROB CULPEPPER

ISLAND TREASURES

A D V E RT I S E M E N T

INTRODUCING

A COLLE C T ION OF NE IG H B OR H OOD S TH AT OFFER TH E BE ST O F C OASTA L ARC HIT E CTUR E , LIFE STYLE AND L OCATIONS

HABERSHAM // BEAUFORT, SC

HOOK MILL ESTATES // EAST HAMPTON, NY

MAHOGANY BAY VILLAGE // SAN PEDRO, AMBERGRIS CAYE, BELIZE

T O L E A R N M O R E , V I S I T C O A S TA L L I V I N G C O M M U N I T I E S . C O M

The trademark COASTAL LIVING and accompanying logo design(s) are used by the above referenced communities solely in accordance with the terms and conditions of a separate license agreement with Coastal Living, a division of Time Inc. Lifestyle Group. Coastal Living did not supervise or control the design, development, or construction of the residential communities or of the homes within and the licensees have made no statements or representations that Coastal Living supervised or controlled the design, development, or construction.

All trademarks are the property of their respective owners. © 2017 Time Inc. Lifestyle Group

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