BA - May 2021

THE GREEN ISSUE

What to Do With Those Broccoli Stems

How to Cook, Eat & Live More Sustainably

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Ver y Good, Ver y Vegan Chinese Food

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YASMIN KHAN COOKS ACROSS THE EASTERN •H a l l o u m i

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EcoFriendly Appliances

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May THE GREEN ISSUE

38 Kitchens Without Borders Cookbook author Yasmin Khan shares recipes inspired by refugees who’ve carried their foodways across the Middle East and Mediterranean.

And she asks how climate migration will affect our tables in the future.

48 Why We Waste & How to Stop A deep dive on food waste, plus strategies (and recipes!) for combatting it.

PHOTOGRAPH BY FRANK FRANCES. FOOD STYLING BY LILLIAN CHOU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIA PAPPAS.

BY PATRICK SYMMES RECIPES BY ANDY BARAGHANI, CHRISTINA CHAEY, AND SONIA CHOPRA

64 Crispy, Crunchy, Saucy, Tasty (Oh, and Vegan) Chef Justin Lee of NYC’s Fat Choy makes delectable vegan food for all.

72 The Land Stewards Minneapolis chef Brian Yazzie stays rooted in his community with dishes that spotlight Indigenous ingredients.

T H E R E ’S N O S U C H THING AS TOO MUCH GARLIC. P. 6 6

AS TOLD TO ELYSE INAMINE RECIPES BY BRIAN YAZZIE, VANESSA CASILLAS, AND RIVIANNA ZELLER

ON THE COVER

Chana Masala, Halloumi Saganaki, and Spicy Bulgur in Lettuce Cups (for recipes, turn to p. 43).

Photograph by Alex Lau. Food styling by Susie Theodorou. Prop styling

by Sophie Strangio.

May VOLUME 66 NUMBER 4 I T ’S A JAW-DROPPER SHOWSTOPPER.

9 Family Meal Tangy shrimp toasts, our new favorite technique for neverdry chicken breasts, and more.

18 The One-Sheet Everything you need to know about honey.

BY ALEX BEGGS

20 The Pour How six earthconscious distillers are taking steps to improve their environmental impact.

BY MACKENZIE CHUNG FEGAN

22 Dish Decoded Father-son duo Ahmed and Farhan Momin on the iftar box they serve at Atlanta Halal Meat & Food during Ramadan.

BY SONIA CHOPRA

24 Industry Shifts Chef Rob Rubba of Washington, D.C.’s Oyster Oyster creates a blueprint for sustainably minded takeout.

BY ELYSE INAMINE

26 Sweet Spot For a seriously picturesque dessert, look no further than Elaine Townsend’s Pistachio and Mango Sans Rival.

28 Green Thumb Gear Functional gardening tools get a glow-up just in time for spring.

BY ALIZA ABARBANEL

32 All on the Table Novelist Dawnie Walton reflects on her enduring interest in the mixed drink.

36 The Equipment A sleek new set of energy-efficient appliances is changing the way kitchens run.

BY ALEX BEGGS

2 – M A Y 2 0 21

81 Peeling Back the Layers Basically’s guide to selecting, preparing, and cooking with onions.

88 Dream Dinner Party Director and producer Barry Jenkins invites the late Toni Morrison over.

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 editor’s letter 86 recipe index 87 sourcebook

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY D’MYTREK BROWN.

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Editor in Chief

DAWN DAVIS Executive Editor SONIA CHOPRA Creative Director MICHELE OUTLAND Test Kitchen Director CHRIS MOROCCO Deputy Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN Director of Editorial Operations NICK TRAVERSE

Editorial

Design

Social & Audience Development

Senior Editor AMANDA SHAPIRO Bonappetit.com Editor SASHA LEVINE Senior Editor, Cooking SARAH JAMPEL Senior Staff Writer ALEX BEGGS Culture Editor HILARY CADIGAN Restaurant Editor ELYSE INAMINE Assistant Editor CHALA TYSON TSHITUNDU Digital Production Assistant NICO AVALLE Assistant to the Editor in Chief JENNA ADRIAN-DIAZ Entertainment Editor CAITLIN BRODY

Design Director CHRIS CRISTIANO Art Director CHRISTA GUERRA Associate Art Director LETICIA SARMENTO

Associate Director of Social Media URMILA RAMAKRISHNAN Social Media Manager EMILY SCHULTZ Associate Analytics Director CLARA CHEN Audience Development Manager ALEX PASTRON

Test Kitchen Senior Food Editors ANDY BARAGHANI, CHRISTINA CHAEY Associate Food Editor RACHEL GUR JAR Recipe Editor LIESEL DAVIS Assistant Food Editor JESSIE YUCHEN

Photography Senior Visuals Editor MICHELLE HEIMERMAN Staff Photographer EMMA FISHMAN

Operations Production Managers MAT T CARSON, KATE FENOGLIO Copy Director GREG ROBERTSON Copy Manager BRIAN CARROLL Research Director JOSEPH HERNANDEZ Global Brand Advisor

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Video Head of Video Programming JUNE KIM Supervising Producers PHIL CHENG, ALI INGLESE Culinary Director, Video RHODA BOONE Culinary Producer KELLY JANKE Directors CORY CAVIN, MATT HUNZIKER, CHRIS PRINCIPE, DAN SIEGEL, RUSTY WARD Directors of Photography BEN DEWEY, KEVIN DYNIA Senior Production Manager JANICE GILMAN Producers FRANK COSGRIFF, TYRE NOBLES, MARIA TRIDAS, TOMMY WERNER, KARA YENNACO Associate Producers BLAKE JESSE, NESS KLEINO, PARISA KOSARI Video Host BRAD LEONE

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4 – M A Y 2 0 21

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Editor ’s Letter

Feeling Energized I usually think of color, a riot of yellow daffodils and purple crocuses, the bright male goldfinch returning to New York. But this spring, what comes to mind is motion, perhaps because my own movement has been restricted due to the pandemic. There is the energy (and the audacity) of a tulip defying gravity to shoot up out of the earth. Then there’s downward motion too, the power unleashed in a terrific rain or pollen storm.

The energy required to gather and feed friends comes to mind as well. The menu planning, the shopping, the mad dash to declutter the apartment before friends arrive. As of press time it’s not yet safe to entertain, but I’m already daydreaming about it. When friends arrive, they’ll find a tray of lettuce cups filled with spicy bulgur, a dish bejeweled with pomegranate seeds. We feature these and many more dishes (see page 38) from the new cookbook Ripe Figs by Yasmin Khan, who traveled the Mediterranean listening to refugees and those who help them get on their feet by creating spaces where food begets conversation and compassion.

WHEN I THINK OF THE ADVENT OF SPRING,

6 – M A Y 2 0 21

At my dinner party the conversation will start with what we’re reading (The Final Revival of Opal & Nev for me) and then escalate to the environment. I’ll be armed with alarming facts, the ones I learned while editing this, our sustainability issue, but I’ll also come with optimism, buoyed by the creative thinkers who are focused on solutions. You’ll learn about how much we waste and how to combat it at home (page 48). Not sure how to start composting? We’ve got a handy guide (page 58). Want a drink after you take in the magnitude of it all? You’ll find companies that distill alcohol sustainably (page 20).

Of course, you come to BA for the food. Our test kitchen has produced delicious recipes that use parts of produce usually thrown away, like chai made from orange peels and pork chops topped with broccoli stem salsa verde (page 63). (Though we have plenty of wonderful vegetarian options, we’re not here to tell you, even in this issue, how much meat to consume. That’s a choice each individual has to make, and with two teen boys, meat is certainly in rotation at my place.) No, we’re not featuring recipes from the restaurant Fat Choy just because they’re vegan. We’re featuring them because we’re excited about Justin Lee and his food. He went meatless at Fat Choy because he’s concerned about the planet and wanted to show that you can create big flavors without meat. Mission accomplished—just try his Bok Choy with Brown Sauce and Crispy Garlic (page 71). We also feature Brian Yazzie, an Indigenous chef for whom sustainability means staying rooted in his community and feeding those in need (page 72).

We titled Yazzie’s story “The Land Stewards.” To be a steward means to spend energy taking care of something. I’m going to employ my energy not just planning the dinner but thinking how, in the process of doing so, I can be more thoughtful about the earth’s resources. I’d love for you to join me, in ways that feel urgent and right for you.

DAW N DAV I S edi t or in chie f @bonappetitdawn on instagram

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

I’m not entertaining quite yet, but I am dreaming of it. p. 43.

Make an impact.

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One product, one child, o n e y e a r o f s a f e wa t e r

In the spring of 2020, just as the COVID-19 pandemic was taking hold, Vogue asked designers, photographers, artists, editors, and models (and a few celebrities) to reveal what their lives looked like under lockdown. The result was an extraordinary series of self-created images, interviews, and essays, now brought together in one volume. Postcards From Home marks a moment of profound change and serves as a stunning document of creativity thriving through crisis.

BY THE EDITORS OF VOGUE

FOREWORD BY ANNA WINTOUR

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Family Meal

The only roast chicken breast method you need, plus more spring recipes to cook right now

R E C I P E D E V E LO P E R

Ali Slagle was a selfproclaimed “never-breaster” who only tolerated chicken breasts when they were breaded and fried schnitzel style. Then she developed a method for crackly-skinned, juicy roast breasts that has quickly earned a spot in her regular rotation. Preheating the skillet before adding the chicken jump-starts the browning process; the bones provide a buffer that protects the meat from drying out as the skin gets golden. Use the leftover drippings to make any kind of side, from sautéed greens to warm salad dressing to the herby peas and croutons shown here.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY E M M A F I S H M A N

Family Meal

Lemony Tortellini Soup With Spinach Similar to Greek avgolemono, this soup gets its silkiness from a mixture of eggs and lemon juice, making this dish comforting yet light R E C I P E BY S A R A H JA M P E L

1. Bring 8 cups water to a boil in a large pot. Add bouillon paste and whisk to dissolve (or, you can use bouillon cubes instead; start with 4 cubes and add more as needed until you have a flavorful broth). Add tortellini and cook 3 minutes—or according to package directions. Remove from heat and use a spider, slotted spoon, or fine-mesh sieve to divide tortellini among bowls.

2. Whisk eggs, lemon juice, and 1 tsp. pepper in a medium bowl until well combined. Return broth to a gentle simmer over medium.

Scoop out about 1 cup broth and very slowly drizzle into egg mixture, whisking constantly.

(This will warm up the delicate eggs gradually so they don’t scramble when you add them to the rest of the hot broth.) Egg mixture should be quite warm to the touch; whisk in more broth if not.

3. Whisking constantly, gradually pour warm egg mixture into pot with broth. Cook, whisking often (still over medium heat), until slightly thickened, 5–7 minutes.

Taste and season with salt and more pepper if needed. If your broth is really salty, you might need to add a bit of water to dilute the soup.

4. Remove pot from heat and add spinach and ½ cup dill (spinach will wilt immediately). Ladle broth into bowls with tortellini and drizzle with oil. Top with some Parmesan and more dill and pepper.

1 0 – M A Y 2 0 21

4 S E RV I N G S

1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. vegetable or chicken bouillon paste (preferably Better Than Bouillon) 10 oz. fresh cheese, spinach, or mushroom tortellini 4 large eggs ¼ cup fresh lemon juice

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more Kosher salt 1 bunch spinach (9–12 oz.), thick stems trimmed, coarsely chopped ½ cup coarsely chopped dill, plus more for serving Extra-virgin olive oil and finely grated Parmesan (for serving)

This may be obvious, but make sure to use a broth that tastes good on its own.

Refrigeration and Freezing

Family Meal

Rustic Shrimp Toasts The generous amount of lemon on these satisfying toasts cuts through the richness of the shrimp and aioli—so don’t be shy R E C I P E BY C H R I S T I A N R E Y N O S O

4 S E RV I N G S

1 lb. large shrimp, peeled, deveined, rinsed, patted dry, halved lengthwise 4 scallions, cut into 1" pieces 3 Tbsp. drained capers 1 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp.

Morton kosher salt

½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. store-bought or homemade aioli 4 ½"-thick slices country-style bread 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ⅓ cup chopped parsley 2 lemons, cut into wedges

1. Mix shrimp, scallions, capers, red pepper flakes, salt, and ½ cup aioli in a medium bowl to combine. Spread remaining 2 Tbsp. aioli on 1 side of bread slices.

2. Arrange shrimp, cut side down, in a snug, even layer over aioli on bread all the way to the edges, packing scallions and capers on, under, and between shrimp. Press shrimp mixture into bread to ensure good contact. Place on a plate and chill at least 10 minutes and up to 30 minutes (this will help shrimp adhere to bread).

3. Heat broiler (on low if you have the option). Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large ovenproof skillet over high. Cook 2 slices of bread, shrimp side up, 15 seconds, then broil, watching toasts carefully, until golden and crisp in spots and shrimp turn pink and curl slightly, 5–7 minutes. (Broiler heat varies widely, so check on toasts every minute or so.) Transfer toasts to a cutting board. Repeat with remaining 1 Tbsp. oil and 2 slices of bread.

4. Cut each toast in half and transfer to a platter. Sprinkle with parsley and serve with lemon wedges for squeezing over.

If you’re up for it, make your own aioli—with so few other ingredients, it makes a difference here.

12 – M A Y 2 0 21

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Hosted by David Remnick.

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Family Meal

Chicken Breast With Peas and Croutons Your pan should be very hot by the time you add the chicken— if you hear an immediate sizzle, you’re doing it right R E C I P E BY A L I S L AG L E

1. Place a rack in middle of oven and set a large cast-iron skillet on rack; preheat oven to 425°. Pat chicken dry and rub with 2 tsp. salt; season with pepper.

4 S E RV I N G S

4 skin-on, bone-in chicken breasts (about 3 lb. total) 2½ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more Freshly ground black pepper 1 large shallot, halved, thinly sliced 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 4 tsp. (or more) extra-virgin olive oil

4 cups ¼"–½" pieces torn countrystyle or multigrain bread 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 3 oil-packed anchovy fillets 2 cups fresh or frozen English peas ¼ cup torn tender herbs (such as basil, parsley, dill, and/or mint) Lemon wedges (for serving)

Frozen peas make this a year-round meal, but you can also use shelled fresh peas.

2. Stir shallot and lemon juice in a small bowl; season with salt and pepper. Set aside.

3. Pat chicken dry again; rub with oil. Carefully place skin side down in preheated skillet and roast, turning skin side up halfway through, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part registers 150°, 20–25 minutes.

Transfer chicken to a cutting board, leaving fat behind, and let rest (temperature will rise as meat sits).

5. Add butter and anchovies to same skillet and cook, breaking up anchovies with a spoon, until butter is melted. Add peas, remaining ½ tsp. salt, and 2 Tbsp. water; season with pepper. Cook, stirring occasionally, until peas are bright green and warmed through, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat.

6. Cut chicken meat from bones and slice. Stir croutons, herbs, and reserved shallot mixture into peas; season with salt and pepper.

Divide among plates; top with chicken. Serve with lemon wedges.

14 – M A Y 2 0 21

FOOD STYLING BY D’MYTREK BROWN

4. Place skillet on stovetop over medium heat (be careful of that hot handle). Add bread and season with salt and pepper.

Toast, stirring often and scraping up browned bits, until golden, about 4 minutes. Add more oil if pan looks dry. Using a slotted spoon, transfer croutons to a plate.

Family Meal

All A’s Spring Salad With Mahi-Mahi It doesn’t get much faster than this: Throw together the asparagus, arugula, and avocado salad in the 10 minutes it takes the fish to roast R E C I P E BY B R I G I D WAS H I N G T O N

4 S E RV I N G S

4 6-oz. skinless, boneless mahi-mahi fillets, patted dry 2 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 Tbsp. plus 2 tsp. Dijon mustard, divided

1 lemon 1 bunch asparagus (about 1 lb.), trimmed ½ tsp. honey 1 avocado, thinly sliced 1 bunch mature arugula, trimmed

Mature arugula has a spicier flavor than the baby kind (and that’s why we love it!).

1. Preheat oven to 425°. Place mahi-mahi on a rimmed baking sheet and rub all over with 1 Tbsp. oil; season on both sides with salt and pepper. Brush or rub fish on both sides with 1 Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. mustard. Using a Microplane, finely grate zest of lemon over fish. Set lemon aside.

2. Bake mahi-mahi until opaque throughout and flesh flakes easily with a fork, 8–10 minutes.

3. Meanwhile, heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet, preferably cast iron, over high. Cook asparagus, turning occasionally, until blistered in spots, about 4 minutes total; season with salt.

4. Remove mahi-mahi from oven.

Cut reserved lemon in half and squeeze juice from 1 half over fish. Squeeze juice from remaining half into a medium bowl (catching any seeds with your other hand).

Add honey, remaining 1 tsp. mustard, and remaining ¼ cup oil and whisk until smooth; season dressing with salt and pepper.

6. Divide fish and asparagus among plates and scatter salad on top.

1 6 – M A Y 2 0 21

FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES

5. Add avocado and arugula to dressing and toss gently to coat.

Taste salad and season with more salt and pepper.

Th e O n e - S h e e t

A short and sweet guide to the vast world of :

Honey The

101 What Even Is Honey? the tireless work of thousands of

and regurgitate that nectar into each other’s sacs (sorry) until it

WILDFLOWER AND CLOVER

the honeycomb then spits it into

STORING

Your best bet is to find local or regional honey at your market. Massproduced stuff is usually a cooked-down (pasteurized) blend of hundreds of different honeys and not nearly as delicious.

Keep honey in a cool dark place and you’ve got about two years before it might start to taste off—but it will never spoil if kept free of moisture. If it crystallizes a bit, just run the jar under warm water.

The Good Stuff

The next time you’re cooking with honey, coat your measuring spoon or cup with a little neutral oil before adding the honey; it will slide right out. Very satisfying.

Creamy and delicate, with subtle floral notes.

BUCKWHEAT

TUPELO

Dark, earthy, nutty, and molasses-like.

Tastes like green apples dipped in caramel.

HOT, HOT HONEY!

That precious, expensive raw honey is best when you can taste it front and center: on peanut butter toast, drizzled over a pound cake, by the spoonful before a run. You might notice a whiff of hay or notes of apricot, things like that.

Use inexpensive clear and runny honey when you’re cooking or baking.

A Little Trick

These commonly found honeys have a mild sweetness.

Bring 2 thinly sliced small red chiles and ½ cup honey to a bare simmer in a small saucepan over mediumlow heat. Let hot honey cool, then store in an airtight container (or strain into a squeeze bottle for easy access) and chill up to 1 month.

Add to marinades and glazes, or whisk into salad dressings.

SWEET LINGO

Raw

Unfiltered

Organic

Imitation

Honey jars usually list one ingredient: honey.

But that doesn’t tell you a whole lot about what you’re getting. Here’s how to decode a few other words you might encounter on the label:

This is an unregulated term that refers to honey that’s either straight from the honeycomb or minimally heated. It can be cloudy (a sign it hasn’t been overly processed) and retains many of its enzymes.

Another unregulated term. This generally means the honey has been strained to filter out dead bees (RIP) and/or their wings but not enough to remove other perfectly edible particles.

It turns out it’s extremely hard to make organic honey. (YOU try telling bees to pollinate only certified-organic bushes.)

Right now most organic honey comes from Brazil, Mexico, and Hawaii.

Run away! This is syrup made with fake sweetener.

It’s meant for those on sugar-free diets, but the mysterious filler ingredients make it suspect for all.

1 8 – M A Y 2 0 21

BY A L E X B E G G S

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN

BUYING

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Th e P o u r

Better Spirits

Novo Fogo Tanager Cacha a $39

Hard alcohol is, well, hard on the planet, but these brands are making strides B y M AC K E N Z I E C H U N G F E GA N

W E ’ R E C U T T I N G B A C K O N red meat and asking where those out-of-season tomatoes were grown. But how often do we consider how the whiskey in our Manhattan was made? Distilling spirits is a water-andenergy-intensive process, and often the crops used to make them are industrially farmed. But some distillers are committing to the climate: partnering with local farmers, using alternative sources of energy, and reusing heat from their stills. These are a few brands, big and small, that are taking steps to make booze better.

M O N T A N YA

Colorado’s Montanya rum eliminated all plastic from its packaging and tasting room and teamed up with an organization that funds plastics recycling programs around the world.

NOVO FOGO

Many of Brazil’s tree species—including some that have traditionally been used for cacha a barrels—have been decimated by logging.

Cachaça brand Novo Fogo is raising rare seedlings to be replanted in Brazil’s Atlantic Forest.

GOOD L I Q U O R W O R KS

After the bean is removed from the fruit of the coffee plant, the pulp is normally discarded. Good Liquorworks rescues this by-product and turns it into a sippable vodka begging to be martini’d.

2 0 – M A Y 2 0 21

BRUICHLADDICH

Bruichladdich is experimenting with hydrogen combustion technology to heat the stills that produce its Islay single malt whiskies.

M A K E R ’S M A R K

Maker’s Mark is on track to divert all its landfill waste by this summer thanks to the distillery’s robust recycling program.

LATE EMBERS

Made on Long Island, Matchbook Distilling Company’s smoky Late Embers is for mezcal lovers, but instead of agave—which can take a decade or more to grow—it’s made with sunchokes, a plentiful crop in the Northeast.

Montanya Rum Oro $30

Good Liquor works Good Vodka $35

Maker’s Mark Bourbon Whisky $27 Bruichladdich The Classic Laddie $65

Matchbook Distilling Company Late Embers $60

P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N

Dish Decoded

Breaking Fast At Atlanta Halal Meat & Food, father-son duo Ahmed and Farhan Momin serve this iftar box, a carryout meal to break the daily Ramadan fast, full of favorites from their restaurant and family

by S O N I A C H O P R A

6

1. The Dates

“Dates signify a blessing from God,” Ahmed says. “Breaking your fast with one gives you energy for the evening prayers and subsequent feast,” Farhan adds. Prepared for iftar, the post-fast meal, this box comes with Medjool dates—which Farhan loves for their rich taste and high sugar and vitamin content—plus seasonal fruit.

3

2. The Kheer

“Kheer is just quintessential to Ramadan for us,” Farhan shares. This cardamom-y rice pudding is made for dessert at least a few times during Ramadan in the Momins’ Indian American household.

3. The Samosa

2

1

Samosas are a must at iftar parties Farhan has attended.

One big samosa, filled with potatoes and peas and served with cilantro and tamarind chutneys, is nestled in the box.

4. The Nihari Sandwich

Of course, the Momins’ bestselling dish had to be included.

Lamb nihari, Pakistani-style stewed meat, is cooked down extra long, then “treated like a sloppy joe,” Farhan says.

4

5. The Nimbu Pani

Drinking anything is prohibited until iftar. This nimbu pani, a lemonade spiced with black salt and cumin, is refreshing and easy on the stomach.

6. The Falooda

Take a scoop of kulfi; add rose syrup, milk, agar-agar jellies, vermicelli, and basil seeds; and you get this falooda. “It’s a delicious, high-calorie way to cap off your fast,” Farhan says of the dessert.

5

2 2 – M A Y 2 0 21

P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N

Industry Shifts

The Oyster Oyster Approach to Takeout

S U GA R C A N E TO - G O B OX E S

“These Tellus containers are made of sugarcane fibers left over from milling, so they’re compostable. We can’t put anything soggy in them—learned this the hard way—so we line them with compostable parchment paper.”

GROWLER PROGR AM

“Instead of selling single-use cans of beer, we created a closed loop.

When a guest orders beer, we fill a growler with a draft from one of our taps, they bring it back, we sanitize the growler, and cycle it back in.”

Reduce, Reuse, Rejigger b y E LYS E I N A M I N E

the focus of Oyster Oyster, chef Rob Rubba’s veg-forward tasting menu restaurant in Washington, D.C. “Climate change is pretty darn real,” he says. “So I was thinking about what a plate of food will need to be 10 years from now.” At Oyster Oyster that means no citrus or olive oil (due to the carbon footprint of transporting them), no meat (just shellfish), and ingredients sourced from nearby farms. “We’re a restaurant that’s about restraint,” Rubba says. “It was an exercise that prepared us for takeout.” COVID-19 not only delayed the restaurant from opening last March but also forced the team to reimagine their fine-dining setup as packaged meals to go when it did finally open last summer. And that same sustainability-minded ethos drove the way Rubba thought about the whole take-out experience. “We never wanted to do takeout, but we realized we needed to do it or we wouldn’t see the other side,” he says. Here he introduces the Oyster Oyster way, which involves biodegradable utensils, tote bags, and a little ingenuity.

S U S TA I N A B I L I T Y WA S A LWAYS

2 4 – M A Y 2 0 21

OY S T E R S H E L L C O L L E C T I O N

“We sell oysters and have a bin to collect shells. We either give them to the Oyster Recovery Partnership to help rebuild the reef or turn them into votive candles. Repurposing products creates a longer lifeline.”

TOTE BAGS

“Packaging is evil no matter what, but tote bags act as a conduit for better practices. Our bags are organic cotton, and An-Phuong Ly of An Made dyes them using natural dyes created with our onion scraps.”

I L LU ST R AT I O N BY J O S E B E R R I O

PHOTOGRAPHS BY EMMA FISHMAN

Chef Rob Rubba is reimagining takeout at Oyster Oyster in Washington, D.C., with the environment in mind

good food. good health. good vibes.

behealthyish.com

A BON APPÉTIT BRAND

Sweet Spot

Unrivaled for a Reason Fruity and nutty, creamy and crisp, this Filipino sans rival (that’s “unrivaled” in French) from Elaine Townsend of Mochiko in Cincinnati is also the most beautiful dessert you’ll make this year

See how Townsend makes the mango swirls at bonappetit .com/sans-rival

Mango Twist While a classic sans rival consists of cashew meringue and unflavored buttercream, Townsend swaps in pistachios and adds fresh mango purée to the frosting.

P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N

Pistachio and Mango Sans Rival 6 – 8 S E RV I N G S

For an easier decoration, skip the swirls and either pile on large cubes of mango or shingle thin slices.

MERINGUE

2 cups (280 g) raw pistachios, divided 2 cups (packed; 280 g) powdered sugar 6 large eggs, separated ½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar ½ tsp. meringue powder (optional) ⅛ tsp. kosher salt

FOOD STYLING BY D’MYTREK BROWN

ASS E M B LY

3 large ripe but firm mangoes (such as Kent or Tommy Atkins), divided 2 Tbsp. (or more) fresh lemon juice ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. (175 g) granulated sugar 2½ cups (5 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A candy

through, until golden brown, 10–13 minutes. Let cool, then coarsely chop; set aside for decorating.

Reduce oven temperature to 300°.

Cut 2 large sheets of parchment paper and trace three 7x3½" rectangles with a pencil on each sheet. Turn parchment over and place each on an 18x13" baking sheet (you should be able to see the traced rectangles through the parchment; they will be your guides later). Pulse powdered sugar and remaining 1 cup (140 g) pistachios in a food processor until the consistency of very coarse sand.

Transfer to a large bowl.

Place raw egg whites in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Beat on medium speed until frothy, about 2 minutes. With the motor running, gradually add granulated sugar, meringue powder (if using), and salt. Increase speed to medium-high; beat until stiff peaks form and meringue is glossy, about 7 minutes. Fold into pistachio mixture in thirds, folding until just combined before adding more.

(It should still look fluffy.)

Transfer batter to a piping bag fitted with a ½"-wide tip (or fill a resealable plastic bag and snip off a corner) and pipe to fill each traced rectangle on prepared baking sheets. (Or, you can divide batter into 6 portions and spread to fill each rectangle all the way to the edges with an offset spatula.)

Bake, rotating halfway through, until meringues are light golden brown, dry to the touch, and firm (they shouldn’t crack as soon as you touch them), 40–50 minutes. Turn off oven, prop door open (a wooden spoon works well), and let sit in oven 20 minutes.

Remove meringues from oven and carefully peel away parchment while meringues are still warm. Let meringues cool completely.

thermometer While the meringues cool, peel 2 mangoes and cut flesh from pits. Purée in a blender or food processor until smooth. Transfer to a small saucepan; add lemon juice.

ASS E M B LY

Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 350°.

Toast 1 cup (140 grams) pistachios on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing halfway MERINGUE

Cook over low heat until slightly thickened, 10–15 minutes. (You should have about 1½ cups.) Let cool slightly.

With motor on medium-high speed, beat egg yolks in the clean bowl of a stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment until pale and doubled in volume, about 8 minutes.

Meanwhile, place granulated sugar and water in another small saucepan (do not stir) and clip thermometer to side of pan. Cook over low heat until thermometer registers 240°, about 8 minutes.

With motor on high speed, carefully stream hot sugar into whipped egg yolks, avoiding whisk and sides of bowl, and beat until bottom of bowl is slightly cooler to the touch, about 4 minutes.

Mixture should be very pale, smooth, and glossy with soft peaks that fall back onto themselves.

Turn off mixer and add warm mango purée. Beat on medium-high just to combine. Reduce speed to medium and, with motor running, add butter 1 Tbsp. at a time, beating until incorporated and smooth after each addition. Add a little more lemon juice to make a more tart buttercream if desired.

Take 1 meringue and dot a little buttercream in several spots on the bottom. Set on a parchment-lined baking sheet and press gently to adhere. Using an offset spatula, spread ¾ cup buttercream over. Place another meringue on top and spread another layer of buttercream over. Repeat process until all meringues are stacked, pressing down a bit firmly when placing each meringue to maintain even layers.

Using spatula, spread buttercream around sides and top of stacked meringues. Press reserved pistachios onto sides as desired, saving some for decorating the top. (If your buttercream is very soft, chill cake 10 minutes before pressing on nuts.)

Slice remaining mango and arrange decoratively on top of cake. Fill in gaps with remaining pistachios. Freeze at least 2 hours before serving.

D O A H E A D : Cake can be made 1 week ahead. Wrap tightly once firm; keep frozen.

M A Y 2 0 21 – 2 7

G re e n T h u m b G e a r

Seedy Business We asked five food industry folks for their go-to gardening tools

by A LI ZA AB AR B ANE L ARS PRUNERS

“I keep these shears ($37; fieldandflorist .com) right next to my door so I can easily grab them to trim herbs, zucchini, and even small branches for tablescaping.

This pair is a little pricier, but that buys lightness, functionality, and durability.

They feel good in your hand, just like a great chef’s knife.”

Abra Berens, chef, Granor Farm, Three Oaks, MI

2 8 – M A Y 2 0 21

P H OTO G R A P H S BY J U L I A N C O U S I N S

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Trademarks owned by Société des Produits Nestlé S.A., Vevey, Switzerland.

HORI HORI GARDEN TOOL

“We use this Japanese gardening knife ($30; food52 .com) extensively on the farm, which is on historic Coast Miwok and Southern Pomo land, especially for transplanting seedlings into the ground. The blade is long enough to create a deep hole, and its width is the ideal size for the seedling, so we can be more efficient than if we used our hands.

The serrated edge is also perfect for weeding.”

Leslie Wiser, farmer and owner, Radical Family Farms, Sebastopol, CA

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“A lot of heavy work gloves can be restrictive, but these cotton gloves ($15; prospectpine.com) are super breathable and make my hands feel comfortable when I’m pulling up carrots or holding a rake. They’re dyed by my friend, chef Josef Centeno, and I love the dark indigo because it hides all the dirt.”

Kong Thao, farmer and co-owner, Thao Family Farms, Fresno, CA

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CLARA KIRKPATRICK

I N D I G O - DY E D GARDENING GLOVES

TRY THESE NEW PURINA ONE TRUE INSTINCT FORMULAS

G re e n T h u m b G e a r

CHICKEN WIRE CLOCHE

“These thoughtfully designed cloches ($24; gardeners .com) protect my precious strawberries and cauliflower from hungry wild bunnies without compromising the aesthetic of my garden. I wanted to find something that was protected but not hidden so I can have the pleasure of watching things grow over time.

I’m happy to report my strawberries are coming up right now.”

“This seed company ($4; trueloveseeds.com) understands the deep connection between restoring Indigenous traditions, reactivating heritage breeds, and creating a network of seedsaving growers. We’re working with 15 different seeds from them, but I’m most excited about Potawatomi Pole Lima Bean, which comes from a member of the Potawatomi Nation, and Besobella, an Ethiopian basil.”

Melanie Masarin, founder and CEO, Ghia nonalcoholic aperitif

Erika Allen, cofounder and co-CEO, Urban Growers Collective, Chicago

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A l l o n t h e Ta b l e

Coming of (Drinking) Age Novelist Dawnie Walton reflects on the evolution of her cocktails—and herself

3 2 – M A Y 2 0 21

At the family reunion, I’m supposed to be playing with my gaggle of cousins, but I’m much more interested in peeping the grown folks. Mama plucks a Bartles & Jaymes out of a cooler and sways to Stevie Wonder; Daddy mixes a screwdriver at the card table before the next hand of spades. How delicious those pinks and oranges look, like the colors in a scoop of rainbow sherbet!

But even plain brown liquor fascinates me. My G-Mama—my father’s mother and the most elegant woman in the world, with her silvery updos and perfume bottles—keeps bourbon next to her bed. The vessel is always the same: a dainty juice glass painted with golden wheat stalks. I never see her take a sip, but 19 8 6 , J A C KS O N V I L L E , F LO R I DA :

P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N

the afternoon light makes the liquid inside glow amber. Though I don’t dare touch, I’m convinced these potions must be magic.

enjoy the sweet and sour, I learn to love my drink like I love my music: complex, and with a little bite.

19 9 4 , R O M E :

2 0 21, B R O O K LY N :

19 97, P O R T L A N D , O R E G O N :

I’m a summer intern for the daily newspaper.

Far from home, my palate expands from California rolls to sashimi. I fall in love with Ethiopian food—the spongy sourness of injera, the spice of doro wat, the communal fun of pinching open the boiled egg at the center of the stew. I’m still wary of most things alcoholic. Everybody here raves about Hefeweizen, but, like all the beer I’ve dared to try, I pronounce it hella vile.

Near the end of June, I turn 21 and my roommate Rachel and I plan a big house party. “Dress: Up,” we note on the invitations. I try to look as elegant as G-Mama would and pack a blank cassette tape with ’70s jams. That night we have a tableful of spirits and mixers: What would the birthday girl like to drink? On another birthday years from now, it will be kamikaze shots and the resulting hangover will put me off vodka. But tonight I nurse a few splashes in a cup of cranberry juice before ditching it to dance to “Sir Duke.” I’ve had just enough to feel officially grown.

19 97, F LO R I DA A & M U N I V E R S I T Y: I’m in my last semester

of college and someone at some party has introduced me to the Midori sour. The color is an electric version of FAMU green, and it tastes like a watermelon Jolly Rancher—so tart that the glands at the back of my jaw do a dance.

Awww, snap. This might be it!

19 9 8 ,

PORTLAND

A GA I N :

I’m back at the newspaper for my first post-college job. “You 3 4 – M A Y 2 0 21

The author in Paris just before lockdown

want a what?” says the guy behind the bar at North by Northwest. I start to repeat my order but realize he’s heard me perfectly well; he just can’t believe what I’ve asked for. Guess a Midori sour ain’t it after all.

But thank God for Rachel, who introduces me to a shame-free, tiki-themed watering hole in a weird part of town. The bartenders at the Alibi make tropical fruity drinks, yes, but also keep milk on hand for white Russians. The Big Lebowski has made them a thing. Licking my lips, I’m not mad at The Dude.

19 9 9 , D . C . :

I’m working at The Washington Post, a staff job in the Style section.

My résumé shines, but the hours are dismal (5 p.m. to 1 a.m.). I live way out in the Virginia suburbs, near the hellish junction of two interstates. The most nightlife I experience is through the gossip and arts columns I copyedit. I’m 23, and nearly dry.

E A R LY T O M I D - A U G H T S , N YC :

I’m an editor for an entertainment website— which means going out is part of the gig!

Variations on martinis and mojitos are hot, and so is rock and roll: TV on the Radio, the Strokes, the early-’70s classics I love. One day I’ll write a novel inspired by such gorgeous rackets, starring an electric Black woman who lights up New York, but for now I’m just soaking up the scene.

The lounges have tiny speakers screwed into the ceiling, plus new-style bartenders called mixDawnie Walton’s ologists offering interesting fladebut novel, ‘ The Final Revival vors and textures: the smoke of mezcal, the foam of egg white at of Opal & Nev,’ the top of a fizz. Though I still is out now.

My husband hunts down a high-quality CD player as a gift (almost every album I own is available to stream, but I can’t bear to part with my physical copies). Flipping through liner notes, I stumble across faded concert stubs and memories of previous nights out. Due to the pandemic, I won’t be barhopping anytime soon, and since I have no skills in mixing drinks myself, a good red wine is now my go-to. But I can still dream: of the music and the cocktail craftspeople who translate my vague descriptions of the tastes I want into magic. I’d ask for something herby and citrusy, I think. A small prayer of brightness for the summer ahead.

Rosemary Mezcal Fizz MAKES 2

Epicurious’ cocktail expert, Maggie Hoffman, created a drink that captures the flavors and nuances of Dawnie Walton’s favorites. For the most luscious frothy-fizzy cocktail, serve fizzes in tall glasses without ice. Make sure your soda and glasses are well chilled before starting. If needed, fill the glasses with ice water and let sit while you make the drink.

40 rosemary leaves (from 1 sprig) Pinch of kosher salt 1 large egg white* 1 3"-long strip lemon zest 4.5 oz. mezcal 2.75 oz. fresh lemon juice 1.5 oz. light agave nectar 6 oz. chilled club soda 2 sprigs rosemary, briefly singed over flame of a gas burner if desired Chill 2 Collins glasses. Combine rosemary leaves and salt in a cocktail shaker and gently press out oils with a muddler, about 45 seconds. Add egg white, lemon zest, mezcal, lemon juice, and agave nectar. Cover cocktail shaker; shake vigorously (without ice) until egg white is emulsified, about 20 seconds.

Carefully uncover (shaker will be quite full) and add ice just to fill. Cover and shake until egg white is very frothy and cocktail is cold, about 30 seconds.

Set chilled glasses next to each other and double-strain cocktail into glasses, dividing evenly. Top off each drink with 3 oz. club soda and garnish with a rosemary sprig.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANTHONY SANTAGATI (WALTON). *RAW EGG IS NOT RECOMMENDED FOR THE ELDERLY, PEOPLE WITH WEAKENED IMMUNE SYSTEMS…OR PEOPLE WHO DON’T LIKE RAW EGG.

I’m 17 on a spring break tour of Europe. My mother has plundered her savings to afford it, the first time anyone in our family has traveled abroad. So far the first dinner has been a letdown— not the rich pasta I’d been imagining but a lukewarm hamburger with fried potato cubes. My spirits perk up when the waiter brings a bottle of red wine (which Mama, reluctantly, has agreed I can try). I turn my stemmed glass upright, heart pounding as the waiter pours the first alcohol to ever pass my lips. I take a sip and taste not candy but…vinegar? I’ve been duped!

I struggle to keep from spitting it out.

eatbasically.com

A BON APPÉTIT BRAND

can’t cook. no problem.

Th e E q u i p m e n t

1

2

The New EnergyEfficient Kitchen If you bought your kitchen appliance the last time low-waisted jeans were a thing, it might be time for an upgrade—for the sake of your electric bill and the planet. These new appliances require a lot less energy; they’re sleeker and more tricked out too

by A L E X B E G G S

1. Induction Junction

2. Let the Dishwasher Do It

Samsung Smart Slide-In Induction Range with Flex Duo & Air Fry

Miele G7000 series Smart Dishwasher

When you cook with gas, some of it heats your food while the rest—noxious nitrogen dioxide—is dispelled into the air.

Induction, which uses magnetic technology, releases minimal fumes (unless you scorch your steak) and sucks less power than electric stovetops. Samsung’s Slide-In Range heats so quickly that your pasta water will be bubbling before you’ve smashed the garlic. The Flex Duo model can split the oven into two sections and only heat half—another way to help the climate. ($3,300; samsung.com) 3 6 – M A Y 2 0 21

Miele’s G7000 series of dishwashers need around 2.4 gallons of water per load, which is a lot less than you’d waste by doing dishes by hand (10 minutes of running the faucet comes out to around 20 gallons!). That’s also less than other dishwashers on the market, which guzzle around five to six gallons. And you can put sauce-splattered dishes right into this one—it has grime sensors so it uses only as much soap and water as is needed. Run a half-load for even less environmental impact. (starting at $1,600; ajmadison.com)

4

3

3. That’s Cool

4. Up in the Air Fryer

LG InstaView Door-in-Door Refrigerator

Breville Smart Oven Air

Refrigerators have changed dramatically in the past decade.

They suck up much less power now, which means lower utility costs for you. The door-in-door style of this fridge means you can keep the stuff you grab a lot (milk, white wine, gherkins) in an outer section, which keeps the air inside the larger chamber from releasing. The magic window—tap to see inside!—cuts down on all the opening and closing too. This model also makes “craft ice cubes,” which, like our planet, are slowly melting little globes.

Fun! (starting at $1,900 this June; lg.com)

A small countertop appliance is always going to require less energy than heating the whole oven. And chances are, someone in your life just won’t stop talking about the air fryer they just bought.

At the top of the line is Breville’s Smart Oven Air, a combination air fryer/toaster/broiler/literally 10 other things. Air fryers function like mini convection ovens, circulating hot air to get food as crispy as possible as fast as possible. The Oven Air cooks approximately 30 percent faster than a non-convection oven; that’s time and electricity saved. And yes, it does pizza too. ($400; breville.com)

I L LU ST R AT I O N BY H A L E Y T I P PM A N N

By 2050 an estimated 143 million people will be forced to leave their homes due to climate crises.

I traveled to the Eastern Mediterranean, where millions of refugees have already been displaced by political strife, to understand what a markedly different future will look—and taste—like

WITHOUT

t e x t a n d r e c i p e s b y YA S M I N K H A N

HAL LOU M I SAGANAKI P. 4 3

Everyone’s favorite squeaky cheese is also the island of Cyprus’s most famous export, and locals have dozens of different ways of eating it. I like to serve it in this simple mezze, which pairs the salty cheese with sweet honey and aromatic thyme.

photographs by ALEX L AU

40

It was a journey through clay-red soils and air rich with the fragrance of orange blossom and thyme, punctuated by hundreds of conversations over small cups of dense, sweet black coffee. At the kitchen tables of immigrants from Syria, Iraq, Palestine, Yemen, and Myanmar, I kneaded bread stuffed with Kalamata olives, rolled cigarillos of vine leaf dolmas, and marinated chicken with pomegranate molasses and allspice to be grilled over hot coals.

Mozhdeh, a young woman from Iran (who didn’t share her last name), spoke about how re-creating the food of her homeland provided solace and comfort in times of calamity; the kitchen had become one of the few places where she could maintain a sense of identity and dignity in the context of losing so much. We swapped recipes and agreed our favorite Persian dish was kashk-e badinjan, a rich and creamy eggplant dip with fermented yogurt. I also spoke to people working on refugee food projects, such as Lena Altinoglou, who set up a restaurant called Nan (named after the Central Asian word for bread), where locals and refugees work alongside each other on the Greek island of Lesbos. Her aim was to create employment for both communities, along with a space in which they can work together, share meals, and perhaps understand Yasmin Khan one another a little more.

The recipes that follow are a selection of my favorites from my travels, each one highlighting a unique and delicious attribute of this everdiversifying region. Climate migration will force us to reimagine how we live together on our shared planet, and it is my hope that it will also make us reassess our notions of man-made borders so that people can move in safety and live in dignity. I returned from my trip knowing this was a topic we need as a society to urgently discuss. And in my mind there is no better place to have these conversations than at the dining table.

PORTRAITS BY MATT RUSSELL (LEFT AND OPENER)

o r t h o u sa n d s o f ye a rs the Eastern Mediterranean has been a place that bridges cultures and continents through empire, trade, and migration. To think of Greece, Turkey, and Cyprus is to picture cobalt blue skies and shimmering seas, sun-drenched islands filled with olive groves and citrus trees, and mezze-laden tables with crisp rings of calamari and vibrant chopped salads. It’s a place where family is central, tradition is honored, and meals are meant to be savored slowly and always with good company.

It is also a place that is rapidly changing. Since 2015 an estimated 5 million political refugees have come through the region, the largest movement of people Europe has seen since World War II. This is a huge number by any standard but perhaps just the tip of the iceberg.

The link between climate change and food systems has long been documented, from the impact of environmental damage on crops and farmland to calls for eating a more local, seasonal, organic, and plantbased diet in order to sustain natural resources. But the climate crisis and food are connected in other ways too, most notably through migration. As changing weather patterns, rising sea levels, and environmental destruction lead to crop failures and food scarcity, large areas of the earth are steadily becoming uninhabitable, and people are being forced to move. The World Bank estimates that by 2050 we’ll see over 143 million climate migrants, a global challenge likely to shift our ideas about the movement of peoples. It’s also likely to change how we eat, as new migrant communities influence local foodways.

To learn more about the struggles faced by those who are forcibly displaced, I traveled to the Eastern Mediterranean on a mission to cook with and interview refugees from all walks of life, sharing their tales in my new cookbook, Ripe Figs: Recipes and Stories from Turkey, Greece and Cyprus.

IS TAN BU L’S FAMOUS MACKERE L SANDWICH ES P. 4 6

Walking along the Bosporus, I’d see men grilling fresh mackerel to make these iconic sandwiches. They’re best eaten while staring out at a rippling strait but also great for picnics and cookouts.

S PI CY B U LGU R I N L E T T U CE CU PS This dish comes from southeastern Turkey, near Syria’s border, where pomegranate molasses and Aleppo-style pepper give a punchy spicysour-sweet flavor to food. Serve in a large salad bowl, or nestle scoops of it in lettuce leaves.

Halloumi Saganaki

D R E SS I N G

4 S E RV I N G S

For Khan this is the ideal appetizer: sweet, salty, crunchy, and fried.

2 Tbsp. honey 1 tsp. finely chopped thyme 1 8–10-oz. package Halloumi cheese 1 large egg ¼ cup fine-ground semolina flour or cornmeal 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil ½ bunch arugula, tough stems trimmed ¼ cup pomegranate seeds 8 fresh black Mission figs, halved Freshly ground black pepper Heat honey and thyme in a small saucepan over medium-low, swirling pan occasionally, until warm (do not let honey boil). Reduce heat to low and keep warm until ready to use.

Cut Halloumi into 8 slices. Lightly beat egg in a small bowl, then place semolina flour in a medium bowl. Working with 1 or 2 pieces at a time, dip Halloumi into egg, letting excess drip back into bowl, then gently toss in semolina flour, shaking off any excess.

Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Cook Halloumi until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side.

Transfer to paper towels and let drain 1 minute.

Mound arugula on a large plate or platter and arrange Halloumi and figs on top. Drizzle with warm honey and scatter pomegranate seeds over. Season with a few grinds of pepper.

Spicy Bulgur in Lettuce Cups 4 – 6 S E RV I N G S

This dish traditionally uses a hot pepper paste known as biber salçasi to add heat to the filling, but extra Aleppo-style pepper will also work just fine here.

5 3 3 1

Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Tbsp. pomegranate molasses Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. doubleconcentrated tomato paste 1 tsp. Aleppo-style pepper 1 tsp. biber salçasi (Turkish hot pepper paste) or more Aleppo-style pepper to taste Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY

1 cup bulgur ½ cup raw walnuts 3 small ripe tomatoes, cored, finely chopped 1 Persian cucumber, finely chopped 3 scallions, finely chopped 1 cup parsley leaves, finely chopped 1 cup mint leaves, finely chopped ¼ cup pomegranate seeds Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 heads Little Gem lettuce or romaine hearts, leaves separated Whisk oil, lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, tomato paste, Aleppo-style pepper, and biber salçasi in a small bowl to combine; season dressing with salt and black pepper.

D R E SS I N G

Cook bulgur according to package directions. Let cool until just warm. Transfer to a medium bowl and mix in dressing.

Meanwhile, toast walnuts in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing often, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board. Let cool slightly, then finely chop.

Add walnuts, tomatoes, cucumber, scallions, parsley, mint, and pomegranate seeds to bulgur and toss well; season with salt and pepper.

Arrange lettuce leaves in a single layer on a platter and spoon some salad into each leaf.

S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY

Hot Yogurt and Spinach Soup 4 S E RV I N G S

Slowly heating up the yogurt with the hot rice and broth mixture ensures it won’t split. Khan seeks out the best quality whole-milk yogurt since it is the star of this dish.

SOUP

1 quart low-sodium chicken broth ½ cup short- or medium-grain white rice (such as Turkish baldo rice or arborio), rinsed 1 large egg yolk 2¼ cups plain whole-milk yogurt 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. cornstarch 1 tsp. dried mint Kosher salt, freshly ground white or black pepper 7 oz. mature spinach, tough stems trimmed, coarsely chopped T O P P I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

3 Tbsp. salted butter 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. dried mint 1½ tsp. Aleppo-style pepper Bring broth to a simmer in a large saucepan; add rice. Return to a simmer, cover, and cook, adjusting heat as needed to maintain a simmer, until rice is al dente, 12–15 minutes.

Whisk egg yolk, yogurt, cornstarch, and ¾ cup plus 2 Tbsp. lukewarm water in a medium bowl. Add rice mixture a spoonful at a time, whisking after each addition, until combined. Pour back into saucepan; set over medium-low heat.

Add mint and season with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook until thickened, about 5 minutes. Add spinach; cook just until wilted, about 2 minutes.

Season soup with more salt and pepper.

SOUP

T O P P I N G A N D ASS E M B LY Melt butter in a small saucepan over medium heat; stir in mint and Aleppo-style pepper. Remove from heat. Ladle soup among bowls and drizzle with spiced butter.

KE E P ON CO O KI NG Yasmin Khan is a London-based best-selling author, cook, and television broadcaster.

She is also trained in law and worked as a human rights campaigner for a decade before a trip to Iran sparked a new career path: sharing people’s stories through food. Her critically acclaimed books, ‘The Saffron Tales’ and ‘Zaitoun,’ use everyday tales of human connection to explore the intersection of food, travel, and politics, challenging stereotypes of the Middle East and celebrating beauty in places more commonly associated with conflict. These dishes (and many more!) come from her third book, ‘Ripe Figs: Recipes and Stories from Turkey, Greece, and Cyprus,’ out May 4.

43

HOT YOGURT AND SPINACH SOUP P. 4 3

This rich and creamy soup originated in the mountain meadows of northern Turkey, where all the country’s best dairy products come from.

It’s a surprisingly easy dish to make and incredibly soothing to slurp.

CHANA MASALA P. 4 6

When I was growing up, this was a regular midweek dinner that my Pakistani dad would cook. So it was a delight to eat it at Nan restaurant in Lesbos and to hear that the recipe came from a Pakistani refugee cook who had worked there.

45

MAKES 2

These sandwiches traditionally feature grilled mackerel, so if you have access to a grill we highly recommended using it. Feel free to tweak the ratios of crunchy veg, but the dressing and mint are essential to cut through the mackerel’s intensity. You can sub in snapper or black bass, but the flavor will be more mild.

D R E SS I N G

2 2 1 ½ ¼ 1

Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Tbsp. pomegranate molasses tsp. Aleppo-style pepper tsp. sumac small garlic clove, crushed Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ¼ small red onion, thinly sliced into rings

3 1 1 1 4 1 1 ¼

1 2 1

1 2

Tbsp. vegetable oil medium onion, finely chopped tsp. coriander seeds tsp. cumin seeds garlic cloves, finely chopped 2" piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped tsp. garam masala tsp. ground turmeric Pinch of cayenne pepper or crushed red pepper flakes medium tomato, peeled, chopped 14.5-oz. cans chickpeas, rinsed Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper tsp. cornstarch Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Chopped cilantro and rice and/or flatbread (for serving)

S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T : M AC K E R E L A N D ASS E M B LY

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 2 6–8-oz. skin-on mackerel fillets Kosher salt 2 ciabatta or other crusty rolls 1 medium tomato, sliced Handful of arugula leaves 1 medium carrot, cut into matchsticks ½ cup mint leaves Whisk oil, lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, Aleppo-style pepper, sumac, and garlic in a medium bowl; season with salt and pepper. Let sit 5 minutes, then fish out and discard garlic.

Stir in onion; let sit until ready to use.

D R E SS I N G

Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Season fish with salt and lightly coat flesh side with dressing.

Cook fish, skin side down, until skin is browned and crisp, about 3 minutes.

Turn over; cook until flesh side is browned and fish is just cooked through, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Drizzle cut sides of rolls with oil.

Divide fish among bottom halves and top with tomato; season with salt. Add arugula, carrot, and mint to dressing and toss to coat. Mound on top of tomato; close up sandwiches.

M AC K E R E L A N D ASS E M B LY

Chana Masala 4 S E RV I N G S

The chickpeas should become so soft that they simply melt in your mouth.

46

CHEESECAKE

1½ 7 1 ⅔ 3 1 1 1 1 1

Nonstick vegetable oil spray sleeves graham crackers (about 13) Tbsp. unsalted butter, melted lb. 5 oz. cream cheese, room temperature cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt, room temperature large eggs, beaten to blend cup sugar Tbsp. all-purpose flour Pinch of kosher salt Tbsp. vanilla extract tsp. finely grated lemon zest Tbsp. fresh lemon juice C H E R R I E S A N D ASS E M B LY

14 oz. frozen pitted sour cherries or one 24-oz. jar, drained ½ cup (or more) sugar 1 Tbsp. cornstarch

A spice mill or

mortar and pestle

S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A 9"-diameter

springform pan Heat vegetable oil in a large saucepan or small pot over medium-low. Cook onion, stirring occasionally, until golden brown and very tender, 15–20 minutes.

Meanwhile, toast coriander seeds and cumin seeds in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing occasionally, until slightly darkened and fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to spice mill or mortar and pestle and let cool; finely grind.

Add spice mixture, garlic, ginger, garam masala, turmeric, and cayenne to pan with onion. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add tomato, chickpeas, tomato paste, and 2 cups very hot water; season with salt and pepper. Cover pan; simmer, adding up to 1 cup more hot water if chana masala looks dry, until chickpeas are very tender and sauce is flavorful, 45–60 minutes.

Stir cornstarch and 2 tsp. water in a small bowl, then stir into chana masala.

Simmer just until thickened, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and stir in olive oil. Season with more salt if needed.

Top chana masala with cilantro and serve with rice and/or flatbread.

Lightly coat pan with nonstick spray and line bottom with a parchment paper round. Pulse graham crackers in a food processor until finely ground. (Or crush in a resealable plastic bag with a rolling pin.) Drizzle in butter; pulse to combine. Press into bottom of prepared pan, packing with a measuring cup. Chill until firm, about 30 minutes.

Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 325°. Using an electric mixer, beat cream cheese and yogurt in a large bowl until smooth. Add eggs, sugar, flour, and salt and beat until just combined. Mix in vanilla, lemon zest, and lemon juice.

Pour filling into pan and gently tap on counter to evenly distribute; set on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake cheesecake until filling is set but still wobbly in the center, 55–65 minutes. Turn off oven and prop door open. Let sit in oven 10 minutes. Remove from oven; let cool completely, 1–1½ hours. Chill until cold, 1–2 hours.

D O A H E A D : Cheesecake can be made 3 days ahead. Keep chilled.

CHEESECAKE

Bring cherries and sugar to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring often, until cherries are thawed if frozen.

Add more sugar if needed. Sprinkle cornstarch over and stir in. Simmer until thickened slightly, about 5 minutes.

Spoon cherries and juices over cheesecake just before serving.

C H E R R I E S A N D ASS E M B LY

Sour Cherry Cheesecake 8 – 10 S E RV I N G S

To avoid a cracked cheesecake, don’t overwork the cream cheese mixture; be sure to line the baking pan; bake it slowly (if you know your oven runs hot you can drop the temperature 25 degrees); and let the cheesecake cool gradually.

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO. RECIPES REPRINTED FROM RIPE FIGS: RECIPES AND STORIES FROM TURKEY, GREECE, AND CYPRUS. COPYRIGHT © 2021 BY YASMIN KHAN. WITH PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER, W.W. NORTON & COMPANY, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

Istanbul’s Famous Mackerel Sandwiches

S OU R CH E RRY CH E E S E CAKE Sour cherries are prized in Turkey.

Here I’ve paired the sharp, tangy fruit with a cake of baked yogurt and cream cheese. I use frozen cherries for this recipe (they’re pitted, which saves time), but you can use fresh ones when they’re in season.

A Bon Appétit Guide

Why We

Waste & How to

Stop

AMERICA, WE HAVE A FOOD

All those wilted scallions, forgotten leftovers, and expired milks add up.

But there’s good news: We’re also working hard on solutions at every level, from policy changes that are proven to work to innovative companies curbing waste at the source to practical approaches you can apply in your own kitchen. We’ve got a deep dive on the state of food waste in America, a super-helpful guide to composting, delicious recipes that will inspire you to dig into your crisper drawer, and plenty more ways to start taking actionable steps today WASTE PROBLEM.

b y PAT R I C K SYM M E S

photographs by HEAMI LEE

r e c i p e s b y A N D Y B A R A G H A N I , C H R I S T I N A C H A E Y, a n d S O N I A C H O P R A

Humans throw away about 1.3 billion tons of food a year, or— at the ery least— one third of all food in the world.

If you loaded that refuse into trucks, they’d wrap bumper-to-bumper around the world seven times.

All that waste is detrimental to our planet. In terms of carbon emissions, we toss tomatoes, let the bread go stale, age out our cilantro, and ignore our mustards until we are doing as much damage as every single car and truck on the planet. If food waste were a country, it would be the third-biggest emitter worldwide.

It is more than simply scraps in your fridge going unused that contributes to the problem. It is the whole series of systems, from wasteful habits in the kitchen—Britain generates 3,885 tons of CO2 every day from boiling too much water for tea—to harmful practices on our farms. It is true in our own households but also in corporate cafeterias and stadiums, at weddings and conferences. The problem is so large it’s easy to feel powerless. But the truth is, there are people, companies, municipalities, even app developers working to get it right. To understand their solutions, you first have to grasp the problem.

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Three ways to customize your brothy beans

IN THE U.S. THE BIGGEST SOURCE OF

food waste is food abundance paired with food anxiety. Amid some of the cheapest food in history, many of us overshop, fill the pantry and fridge, and let it rot, to the tune of about $1,600 per person a year, driven as we are by a deeply rooted, maybe even primordial fear that we never have enough food. From this fear of “nothing to eat” springs our love of the big-box store, 12-packs of strawberry yogurt, and three-pound boxes of crackers, plus the dopamine rush of seeing multiple shopping bags in our kitchens.

Endpoint consumers—home cooks and restaurant lovers—are directly responsible for just 1 percent of the total impact of food waste, with 80 percent of all emissions from food waste occurring on farms. But it’s more layered than that. An onion plowed back into a field (often because it is too small, blemished, or oblong to meet our exacting standards) is not the same as an onion that goes unused in your house. The latter has accumulated a long trail of other

Wilty herbs welcome! Add over-the -hill parsley or cilantro to the pot in the last few seconds when blanching kale.

Use green Swiss chard, spinach, collard greens, or mustard greens instead of kale.

If you’ve got a random onion half or single lone scallion, throw it in with the leeks.

I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY W I L L I A M LUZ

SPRING-Y BROTHY BEANS P. 6 2

STIR-FRIED NOODLES WITH CHICKEN P. 6 2

wastes—the time and effort of harvesting, the the brain and a desire to make the most out of burdens of sorting and transporting, the energy every grocery run. The threat of shortages has needed for cold storage and display, the money, connected our meals back to their social and gasoline, and electricity that bring it to your economic roots better than abundance ever counter. Letting that onion go soft, and then could. tossing it, is squandering more than an onion.

According to Emily Broad Leib, faculty And it follows that preventing that one piece of director of Harvard’s Food Law and Policy end waste makes for a less wasteful marketClinic, these new habits create an opportunity: place: grocers stock less, thereby cutting their “People are being more thoughtful about their storage bills; truckers deliver less, reducing food now, looking at food as a crucible for a petrol consumption; and farmers plant, water, bunch of different concerns: local and regional fertilize, harvest, and process a more suitable food, farm to school, discrimination in those amount. “Right sizing” our food systems will systems. And once you start looking at food, leave more for the 700 million people worldyou come to an understanding of how much is wide last year who had too little. going to waste.”

“Reducing food waste at the household level At the consumer level there are small-scale creates a chain reaction,” says Kate changes each of us can make that Astashkina, a professor at the Univerripple up the food chain, from throwsity of Michigan’s Ross business school ing kale stems into smoothies to who does systems analysis on food putting leftovers and other need-toPERCENT waste. “It reduces emissions not just at be-eaten foods front and center in the of worldwide the downstream tier, it also reduces fridge so we don’t forget about them. greenhouse gas emissions at every level in the supply (You’ll also find many more suggesemissions come from food waste. chain, all the way back up to the farm.” tions on these pages.) On YouTube, There is also massive waste on the you’ll find advocates for the zero industrial scale, when others do the cooking waste movement offering tips on repurposing for us. America is filled with food carts and squash skin for cheese boats, and apple peels white tablecloth restaurants, fast-food chains into fruit soup. Companies like Apeel, a and event caterers, hospitals, schools, corpostart-up creating plant-derived skins for fruits rate cafeterias, and wedding event spaces and vegetables that increase their shelf life, where abundant, even absurd amounts of food offer us the chance to choose produce that are prepared daily. Pre-pandemic we were won’t spoil quite as quickly (read more about spending almost $800 billion a year on comit on page 60). mercially prepared food of all types. CommerAnother way to waste less at home: Shop more cial and institutional kitchens generate 30 to often. When we buy what we need for dinner 40 billion pounds of food waste a year, most of that night, much of it gets cooked. When we buy it sent to landfills. There it produces large what we anticipate needing for the week, more amounts of methane, a global-warming chemof it gets wasted; plans change, parsley wilts. ical 25 times as potent as carbon dioxide, comDriving to the store more frequently has its envipounding the environmental damage. ronmental downsides, of course, but according to Astashkina, the Michigan expert on food waste, tossing a piece of food, with all the O W H A T A R E W E going energy, water, transport, and refrigeration that to do about it? This broken went into creating it, is significantly more costly system has come into focus to the environment. over the last decade, and in One study demonstrates that meal kits, like 2015 the United Nations Blue Apron, are another unexpectedly ecological issued a goal of eliminating option. Even factoring in the carbon footprint of 50 percent of global food all that plastic packaging, researchers have waste by 2030. But the 2020 found surprisingly strong environmental upsides pandemic, and the unfamilbecause they are carpooled to your door with iar sight of barren shelves, other orders in your neighborhood. And critiforced many Americans to cally, they offer exact portion sizes, so there are rethink the connections in our food system now, no remaining single celery stalks or quarter cans not 10 years from now. What was charming, of tomato paste for you to forget about. twee, ecological, or just a good idea pre-panAnd what about the waste that happens outdemic—vegetable gardens, baking your own side our homes, in restaurants, grocery stores, bread, regrowing scallions on the windowsill— and corporate cafeterias? One solution is a bunsuddenly became essential. More people took dle of apps focused on food redistribution. In more steps to reduce food waste, not with the London, the social media app Olio lets UN’s goals in mind, but with the supply chain on

8.2

Never toss another limp carrot, celery stalk, or onion half

Throw them all into a ziptop freezer bag and save for making stock.

Cut carrots and celery into large pieces and cook in a soup, braise, or stew.

Caramelize onions for mujadara, omelets, or a savory galette.

S

53

volunteers (“food waste heroes”) distribute out, is what Google is trying to do. It jumped expiring food from supermarkets to communiinto the fray with the Google Food for Good ties in need. The app Too Good to Go tracks endproject, which aims to help food banks collect of-day food sales everywhere from Copenhagen and distribute with peak efficiency. Right now to New York, alerting users when the bakery there’s no good way for food producers or down the block is selling that day’s goods at a retailers to communicate with food banks; a steep discount. Discounts can change grocery store might have excess by the hour or pop up along your route bananas without the neighborhood as you head home, effectively gamifyfood bank—or a group like the Gleaning food waste. ers—knowing it. The initiative has BILLION For commercial kitchens, there are developed software to help facilitate worth of food also new smart scales that track food communication and to better predict goes uneaten waste and refrigerators that notice waste from institutional sources. This in the when the very first strawberry goes could turn the guessing game of how U.S. annually. bad—warning you to use the rest, now. many donations a food bank will get Of course there are nonprofits tackling the from, say, a major sports venue with periodic problem of large-scale waste from cafeterias, oversupplies of food, into a science. Google has retailers, and industrial kitchens, like Urban also deployed an artificial intelligence system Gleaners in Portland, Oregon, which collects in its own cafes that orders less of anything rousurplus, often from grocers rotating new goods tinely wasted. Food for Good project leader into place, and sends it to schools and commuEmily Ma predicts that within a few decades, nities experiencing food insecurity. Last year machine learning could introduce so much effithe Gleaners collected 1.2 million pounds of ciency into food markets that total food prouneaten food. When I talked to Tracy Oseran, duction could be matched to consumption who founded the Gleaners 16 years ago, she told almost exactly, a vision of near zero waste. me her original motivation was a heartsick feelTech companies, Good Samaritans, apps, and ing as she left a restaurant and saw how much appliance engineers are all chipping away at food was in the dumpster as others went hunthe problem. What about governments? Some gry. But now she summed up her motivation to states are turning to legislation, like Massachuend food waste in two words: “Climate change.” setts, which has effectively run out of room in Even with hundreds of foot soldiers in the its landfills. As a result the state government fight against such waste, the systems of redissharply raised its fees for dumping garbage tribution are so inefficient that there are many while steadily cutting how much food can be missed opportunities to send food from those dumped by big institutional kitchens and reswho have too much to those who have too little. taurants that find it cheaper to waste food than What if we could mechanize it? That, it turns have too little to sell. Massachusetts is one of six

$408

What’s Soup Got to Do With It? Laurie David, coauthor with Heather Reisman of the new book Imagine It! A Handbook for a Happier Planet, shares four tips to reduce waste at home

EMBRACE THE BUMPS

Thousands of pieces of misshapen fruit are thrown away every day because people reject the slight imperfections that nature is bound to impart—we’re talking bumps, small bruises, and odd shapes. Let’s give our fruits and veggies a break and be a bit less demanding about what we buy.

O R G A N I Z E S M A R T LY

Placing just-purchased food behind what is already in your fridge 54

will go a long way toward helping you remember what you have and what you need to use first.

TAKE EXPIRATION DAT E S W I T H A G R A I N O F S A LT

Dates on food packages are usually approximate indications of when the food might be at its best, not absolute confirmation of when something has gone bad. Always smell a product before throwing it out.

More ways to use up your broccoli stems

Thinly slice crosswise into rounds and toss into stir-fries (like the noodles on p. 62).

Finely chop and fold into your favorite frittata filling.

Shave for a salad with other crunchy players like fennel and apple.

T H I S O N E ’S E A S Y : MAKE SOUP

At the end of every week, clean out your fridge and toss all those fading veggies and any leftovers you’ve got hanging around into your favorite pot. Add some onions, garlic, and a good amount of veggie broth and not only do you have a head start on Sunday dinner, but you have also lowered your food carbon footprint by keeping it out of a landfill.

PORK CHOPS WITH BROCCOLI SALSA VERDE P. 6 3

OR ANGE PEEL CHAI P. 6 3

instead of the atmosphere, making soil “the most states that has capped how much food can be overlooked carbon sink on earth,” according to dumped by food service companies, and it Josh Tickell, author of Kiss the Ground, a book works. Food waste declines as caterers, grocers, (and subsequent film) on the movement. and restaurants reduce, reuse, repurpose, and compost what they produce. And it gets better: Food donations increase as well. Massachusetts H E R E ’S A N O T H E R easy saw donations jump 22 percent when it imposed step that we can take in limits. “It’s the single most transformative thing the fight against food we are seeing,” says Broad Leib of Harvard’s waste: View it as a chance Food Law and Policy Clinic. “It forces people to to eat better. see that food has value.”

Claire Sprouse, a barDate labeling is another critical step the govtender and sustainability ernment could take in the fight against food activist and the owner of waste. There are no federal laws on how foods Hunky Dory in Brooklyn, are marked for expiration—only a 50-state described wasted food to patchwork of “best by” or “use by” recommenme as “a lost opportunity dations. Few consumers can navigate the differto learn, a lost opportunity to find flavors.” ence between mandatory “sell by” dates Sprouse has become a teacher and an advocate (required for certain highly perishable foods for cutting food waste across the service industry. like dairy) and the more common array of But she doesn’t do it by lecturing her peers or her ambiguous “best by” and “recommended by” customers. “We’re not in the business of saying labels (which are mere suggestions, timed for no to people,” she says of the hospitality industry. peak flavor, that are placed on foods often safe She has stopped using the term zero waste far longer). The confusing nomenclature “is a because “it makes sustainability sound unachievdriver of so much of the food that’s wasted in able.” Instead, she focuses on the delights—and the household and by grocery stores and retailcost savings—of trimming waste. That positivity ers,” Broad Leib says, as grocers and home lures diners into trying recycled ingredients, like cooks toss perfectly good food with the flavored syrups she makes from approaching “best by” dates. Creating celery leaves, rosemary stems, and national standards for date labels even coffee grounds. Any leftover would be “an easy win” and the single ingredient plowed back into cuisine is PERCENT most cost-effective way to reduce “free food!” she exults. Even the whey of meat produced food waste, she says. left over from making yogurt or mozglobally is And within agriculture, the regenzarella can add a touch of viscosity and wasted. That’s like erative farming movement seeks to acid to a drink or dish. “We’re discover75 million cows. make agriculture into a net gain for the ing flavors and ideas we never came environment. Conventional farming across before,” Sprouse says. The result with tilling, pesticides, and herbicides, kills off is “creative and unique offerings for the menu microorganisms and makes most soil release that put us ahead of the curve.” more carbon than it absorbs. Regenerative farms Food waste is really about lost knowledge, reverse this, paring back wasteful production Sprouse told me. The key is simply opening our practices, reducing water and fertilizer use, and eyes to the issue because “Being better is always planting crops that store carbon in the soil a good start.”

T

Don’t trash those citrus peels! Try…

Adding them to a homemade vinegar-based household cleaner for a citrusy scent.

Dropping them into a neutral spirit like vodka to infuse.

FOOD STYLING BY MAGGIE RUGGIERO. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIA PAPPAS.

Composting them, of course!

(See p. 58 for our guide.)

20

Recommended Reading If you want to go deeper on food waste and sustainability in general, there are several new books that’ll deepen your knowledge. Try The Waste-Free World

by Ron Gonen,

which highlights innovations to help us reduce waste.

Jocelyn C. Zuckerman’s Planet Palm looks at the human and environmental toll of palm oil, which is in roughly half

of all products on grocery store shelves.

And Bill Gates’s How to Avoid a Climate Disaster is a clear-eyed yet optimistic plan for getting the world to zero greenhouse gas emissions.

57

E erything You Need to Know About Maybe you already get why composting is great. It creates healthier soil, recycling the nutrients we don’t consume back into the earth to promote carbon capture and water absorption. It minimizes the energy needed to process our waste when we compost in backyards or at neighborhood sites instead of faraway dumps. And it can reduce up to a third of what ends up in landfills along with the planet-warming methane produced by them. Giving composting the same thought we use to shop, cook, and eat creates a stronger food system—and it’ll even make your trash less smelly. Here’s how to build a composting habit that’s good for the planet and your kitchen.

Compo Make It a Habit

Time is the easiest way to build a routine, but these tricks will help build momentum:

1

Set up your kitchen for success THE BIN FOR THE JOB

You can store your food scraps in anything with a lid, whether that’s Epica’s sleek stainless-steel compost bin ($30; bedbathandbeyond.com) or gallon mason jars and empty yogurt containers, though large households or cooks who use a lot of produce will probably want a bigger bin. Keep it on the counter for easy access while cooking.

Y E S, YO U C A N F R E E Z E T H AT

First figure out what kind of composter you are Before you start stockpiling coffee grounds, find a place to put them once that bin fills up. Consider your options: CURBSIDE P I C KU P

If you live in a city or state with curbside organics pickup…congrats!

All you need is an organics bin next to your trash can.

58

B A C K YA R D E R

If you dream of upgrading your garden, get a big backyard bin to process food scraps and watch your vegetable patch flourish.

COMMUNITY DROP-OFF

Find a local farmers market or community garden that accepts dropoffs for free, or look into a paid collection service.

Stashing small bins in the freezer will help control odors or leaks and prevent pests—and it’s a good way to store overflow if your countertop bin gets too full before your weekly drop off. Create a designated space in your freezer to store these scraps so you’re not constantly shuffling around frozen peas to make room.

KEEP THINGS FRESH

Line the bottom of your bin with strips of newspaper and a shake of baking soda to absorb soggy coffee grounds and smells. You can also use biodegradable trash bags made from potato starch and other organics, but note that only largescale compost facilities can break down this plastic-adjacent material.

Make a list of your compost site’s approved materials (use the opposite page as a starting point), then post it above your bin so you never have to google “can I compost banana peels” again (yes, you can!).

2 Reassess what most often ends up in your compost bin, then adjust your shopping and cooking habits accordingly. Use the recipes in this story to turn your orange peels into your next cup of chai or reincarnate wilty greens into spring-y brothy beans—and stop buying spinach without a plan to eat it ASAP.

3 Write down your reasons for composting—to build healthy soil, deter pests from getting into your trash, or reduce energy use —says Xander Shaw, who helps run Brooklyn Botanic Garden’s compost program at Red Hook Community Farm. Or follow the lead of Vivian Lin, founder of compost pickup company Groundcycle, and weigh your scraps each week for a tally of the waste you’ve diverted from landfills.

sting

(But Were Too O erwhelmed to Ask)

by A L I Z A ABARBANEL

So what goes in that bin anyway?

If it grows, it goes. That’s the cardinal rule, but the full spectrum of what you can compost depends on the scale of your composting facility. Smaller collection sites such as community gardens often reject oily food scraps and bones as well as biodegradable liners, and you should follow suit if you’re processing compost at home. Check with your spot first, but here are some general rules: A L W AY S

S O M E T I M E S* Fruit and vegetable scraps

Cooked leftovers

Eggshells Coffee grounds

Compostable packaging

Grains

Dairy Brown paper bags Meat

Bread

Unbleached paper towels

Seafood shells

Yes for most large -scale composting, no for home or community garden composting

NEVER

Produce stickers and twist ties To-go coffee cups

Plastic Used kitty litter

59

Mushy Avocados No More

When it comes to preserving your produce, Apeel has figured out a way to one-up Mother Nature

“ T H E R E A R E S O L U T I O N S that will save everybody.” The message, painted a robin’s-egg blue and outlined in red, is scrawled across the wall of the makers lab of a school I’m touring with my son. I don’t hear another word the guide says. I’m too mesmerized by hope, the idea that the various messes in which we find ourselves are not the endgame. For an afternoon, a week, a month, I’m an island of optimism. Of course, it doesn’t last. Bad news pierces the bubble. The most recent decade saw more greenhouse gas emissions than the one before; the curve is going in the wrong direction. But I return again and again to this notion: There are solutions that will save everybody.

James Rogers, founder of the produce preservation company Apeel, must believe it too. He didn’t have a makers’ lab when he was in school, but weekend trips to the local hardware store were enough to fire his imagination. At first, his visions centered on the democratization of clean energy, but then one day, driving past some particularly lush farmland, he thought about the magnitude of food waste and how hard it is for “growers to optimize their harvest practices, so that produce can stay on the vine longer in order to reach full nutritional and flavor potential,” as he puts it now.

It was then that he had his lightbulb moment: Nature had it right, it was just a bit parsimonious. The idea is one you’ll be familiar with if you’ve peeled citrus, sliced open a perfectly green avocado, or shaved the tough part off a stalk of asparagus. If so, you’ve observed how skins naturally preserve fruits and vegetables. The problem is that for most produce, the protective layer doesn’t last long enough for the way we live now. Take English cucumbers, for example. You buy a couple on your weekly trip to the grocery store and if you don’t use them by the end of the week, they’re so mushy you have to toss them.

60

FOOD STYLING BY JUDY HAUBERT. PROP STYLING BY REBECCA BARTOSHESKY.

b y D AW N DAV I S

Wish your avocados would stay ripe longer than 45 seconds?

Apeel’s invisible skin can keep them fresh two to three times longer than usual.

Rogers didn’t come at this problem from the perspective of a frustrated home cook but rather as a scientist. “What causes produce to go bad? Water going out and oxygen going in,” he explains. Thinking back to his undergraduate days at Carnegie Mellon University, where he learned about how steel reacts to oxygen in the air and rusts, he recalled how elements like chromium or nickel can form an oxide barrier that physically protects the steel from further oxidation. “I thought if food goes bad in the same way, could we put a little barrier around it that would slow down perishability? And could that help put a dent in the hunger problem?”

Of course, nobody wants chemicals on their food, but at the same time, Rogers says, “water is a chemical. Food is a chemical. Wait a minute—everything we eat is a chemical! So what if we could make this barrier out of food? Then we’d be using food to preserve food, and that would be something worth building.”

Apeel’s technology uses plant-derived materials to make a tasteless, odorless, invisible “peel” that is then applied directly to produce including limes, avocados, mandarin oranges, and apples. This extra skin keeps moisture in and oxygen out, delaying the time it takes for the produce to go bad. The proof is undeniable: An apple treated with Apeel will stay fresh two to three times longer than one that hasn’t been treated. It also works on cucumbers, a win not only for retailers and chefs, but for anyone looking to decrease plastic usage.

According to Rogers, treating English cucumbers with Apeel’s technology rather than plastic wrap saves the equivalent of 85 million straws.

All of this is a boon for consumers and for grocery stores, which have to throw away 43 billion pounds of food each year. According to its own internal research, Apeel has saved over 5 million avocados at grocery stores from going to waste since 2018, which in turn has saved enough water to fill 427 Olympicsize swimming pools.

As for consumers, Apeel offers a minimal-effort way to reduce food waste—and financial waste too.

Imagine one of those nights when you’re all set to go home and make dinner with the fresh produce that’s been languishing in your crisper drawer (I highly recommend Fat Choy’s Smashed Cucumber Salad on page 66). But then a friend spontaneously snags a reservation at an in-demand restaurant. If you’ve got Apeel veggies in your fridge, you can go out to dinner without worrying about them going bad.

Of course, Apeel isn’t operating in a vacuum. There are other forward-looking companies addressing the staggering amount of food wasted in the U.S., which is estimated to be as high as 40 percent of the food supply. Biodegradable coffee pods, reusable silicone storage bags, sustainable alternatives to deforestation-causing palm oil. Other tinkerers, other visionaries. One might not yet be 14, on her own tour of a makers lab, her imagination ready to be set afire.

Ready to come up with new solutions that just might save everybody.

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Spring-y Brothy Beans 4 S E RV I N G S

Blanching, then puréeing the kale creates a silky texture and an overtly green color when stirred into these beans (or any soup or stew, for that matter), but you can use any hardy green that is getting a touch sad and wilty in your fridge.

3 Tbsp. raw pistachios, walnuts, or almonds 1 bunch kale ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 2 medium leeks, white and pale green parts only, tough outer layers removed, sliced into ½"-thick rounds 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 4 oil-packed anchovy fillets Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 1 2"-wide strip lemon zest ½ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes 4 cups low-sodium chicken broth 2 15-oz. cans large white beans, (such as butter or cannellini), rinsed 1 cup chopped parsley 2 oz. feta, broken into large pieces 4 1"-thick slices country-style bread, toasted Toast pistachios in a dry small skillet over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until golden brown in spots, about 4 minutes.

Transfer to a cutting board and let cool; coarsely chop.

62

Remove ribs and stems from kale leaves. Finely chop ribs and stems; keep separated from leaves. Heat ¼ cup oil in a large pot over medium. Add leeks, garlic, anchovies, and kale ribs and stems; season with salt and pepper.

Cook, stirring occasionally, until leeks are slightly softened, about 4 minutes.

Add lemon zest and red pepper flakes and stir a few times to combine. Pour broth into pot, increase heat to mediumhigh, and bring to a simmer.

Reduce heat to medium-low, add beans and crush a few with a wooden spoon to make the soup more creamy.

Let simmer 10 minutes, then stir in kale leaves and cook until just wilted, about 2 minutes. Remove soup from heat.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer kale leaves to a blender and add parsley and pistachios. Pour 1 cup broth (some beans are fine) from soup into blender and purée until smooth. Pour kale purée into pot with soup and stir to combine.

Taste soup and season with more salt if needed.

Ladle soup into bowls; top with feta and drizzle with oil. Serve with toast.

Stir-Fried Noodles With Chicken 4 S E RV I N G S

These simple noodles are designed to empty out your entire crisper drawer in one fell swoop, from slightly droopy carrots and celery to scallions on their last legs and that random onion half.

2 5-oz. packages fresh wavy ramen noodles (preferably Sun Noodle brand) or three 3-oz. packages dried wavy ramen noodles Kosher salt 2 tsp. plus 3 Tbsp. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil, divided 6 scallions ¼ medium head of green cabbage (about 11 oz.), very coarsely chopped into 1" pieces 1 medium onion, sliced ¼" thick 2 medium carrots, peeled, sliced on a diagonal ¼" thick 2 celery stalks, sliced on a diagonal ¼" thick 1 serrano or Fresno chile, finely chopped 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs, sliced into ½"-thick strips 3 Tbsp. soy sauce 2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 1 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice wine) or medium-dry sherry 1 Tbsp. toasted sesame oil Toasted sesame seeds (for serving) Cook noodles in a large pot of lightly salted boiling water according to package directions, using a pair of tongs or chopsticks to encourage noodles to loosen up and separate. Drain noodles in a colander and rinse under cold running water to remove any excess starch. Transfer noodles to a large bowl and toss with 2 tsp. grapeseed oil to prevent them from sticking together. Set noodles aside.

Separate dark green tops from white and pale green parts of scallions; thinly slice tops and set aside. Thinly slice white and pale green parts of scallions and set aside separately. Heat 1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil in a large skillet (at least 12" if you’ve got one) over medium-high.

Cook cabbage, tossing occasionally, until charred in spots but still quite crisp, about 4 minutes. Season lightly with salt and transfer to a large bowl.

Wipe out skillet, pour in 1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil, and return to mediumhigh heat. Cook onion, carrots, and celery, tossing occasionally, until crisptender, about 3 minutes; season lightly with salt. Transfer vegetables to bowl with cabbage. Wipe out skillet again and let cool slightly.

Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil in skillet (still over medium-high), then cook chile, ginger, garlic, and reserved white and pale green parts of scallions, stirring often, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add chicken; stir to coat, then spread out in an even layer.

Cook, undisturbed, 1 minute. Season with salt, then stir and continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until chicken is cooked through, about 3 minutes.

Add cabbage mixture, soy sauce, vinegar, wine, sesame oil, and reserved noodles to skillet and cook, tossing often, until noodles and vegetables are heated through and noodles are coated in sauce, about 30 seconds. Taste and season with more salt if needed.

Divide stir-fry among shallow bowls or plates and top with sesame seeds and reserved scallion greens.

Pork Chops With Broccoli Salsa Verde 4 S E RV I N G S

Broccoli stems have radishlike crunch and sweet flavor but are sadly often discarded. Here they get charred to soften slightly, then combined with briny olives, herbs, vinegar, and olive oil to make an assertive sauce for pork chops (or halibut, cod, or steak).

3 small heads of broccoli (about 1½ lb. total) 2 tsp. fennel seeds 1½ tsp. sugar

2 1"-thick bone-in pork rib chops Kosher salt 2–3 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 small garlic clove, finely grated ½ cup Castelvetrano olives, crushed, pitted, coarsely chopped ¼ cup finely chopped parsley 2 Tbsp. white wine vinegar 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest Freshly ground black pepper S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A spice mill or

mortar and pestle Trim 1" from bottom of broccoli stems, then peel. Remove stalks from crowns; set crowns aside for another use. Cut stalks in half lengthwise and set aside.

Finely grind fennel seeds in spice mill or with mortar and pestle. Transfer to a small bowl and mix in sugar.

Season pork chops all over with salt, then rub with fennel mixture. Let sit at room temperature 30 minutes, or, if you have the time, chill overnight.

Pour 2 Tbsp. oil in a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Cook pork chops, without moving around but pressing down with tongs to ensure meat is in direct contact with pan, until golden brown underneath, about 2 minutes.

Turn pork chops over and cook until other side is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Continue to cook, turning about every minute or so, until chops are deep golden brown on both sides and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 135°, 6–8 minutes. Transfer pork chops to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes before serving. Reserve skillet.

There should still be some oil in reserved skillet; if not, add 1 Tbsp. oil and place skillet over medium-high.

Add broccoli stems and cook until lightly charred, about 2 minutes per side.

Transfer to a cutting board and let cool 3 minutes, then coarsely chop (about ½" pieces).

Transfer broccoli pieces to a medium bowl and add garlic, olives, parsley, vinegar, lemon zest, and remaining ¼ cup oil. Toss well to combine and season broccoli salsa verde with salt and pepper.

To serve, carve pork chop meat away from bones, then slice meat against the grain ½" thick. Divide slices among plates and spoon some broccoli salsa verde on top.

Orange Peel Chai 2 S E RV I N G S

This tea combines warming spices with the bright, bitter flavor of orange peels. Perfect for sick days, the recipe is totally adaptable—add cloves or fennel seeds, or stir in ground spices (or ½ tsp. of a blend like chai masala or haldi doodh) at the end. And if you like your drinks on the savory side, try adding ¼ tsp. smoky black cardamom.

2 clementines or 1 large orange 2 cinnamon sticks or 1 Tbsp.

Burlap & Barrel cinnamon verum shavings 5 green cardamom pods, crushed 1 ¾" piece ginger, peeled, sliced 2 tsp. loose black or green tea or 2 tea bags Lemon wedges and honey (for serving) Remove peels from clementines, trying to leave as much white pith behind as possible; set clementines aside for another use (or snacking!). Bring 3 cups water to a boil in a small saucepan.

Add clementine peels, cinnamon sticks, cardamom, and ginger and cook 3 minutes. Remove pan from heat and let sit 5 minutes.

Set mixture over high heat and return to a boil. Remove from heat and stir in tea. Let sit 2 minutes.

Strain chai through a fine-mesh sieve into 2 glasses, dividing evenly. Squeeze in lemon juice and add honey to taste.

63

SALT-ANDPEPPER

Cauliflower P. 6 6

Chef J U S T I N L E E isn’t vegan (in fact, he used to work at a restaurant called Cannibal). But he’d like to build a bet ter world for the next generation, which is why he devoted his Chinese -inspired New York restaurant FAT C H OY to making vegan food irresistible photographs by FRANK FRANCES 65

“We’re not trying to push our agenda,” says Justin Lee, chef of Lower East Side newcomer Fat Choy, of the work he and his team are doing. “ We’re just trying to make delicious food that you crave —you shouldn’t have to worry about it being vegan or not.”

The menu is a love letter to Chinese American takeout, with a desire to lessen the environmental impact of the restaurant industry. “ This is our platform to try to change the world for the better.” — AS TOLD TO CHAL A T YSON TSHITUNDU Smashed Cucumber Salad 4 S E RV I N G S

Growing up, Lee enjoyed smashing cucumbers for this salad in a plastic bag. “It was like a Chinese American kid’s version of Shake ‘n Bake,” he says. This is a refreshing saucy dish that’ll cool you down all through summer.

At the restaurant, they make their own chili oil, but you can keep it simple and grab your favorite brand from the store or a local restaurant that has pivoted to a wonderful grocery program.

6 medium Persian cucumbers (about 1 lb.)

1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp.

Morton kosher salt 1 garlic clove, finely grated ¼ cup tahini 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 1 Tbsp. white miso 1 tsp. finely grated ginger 1 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil Chili oil (for serving) 2 scallions, thinly sliced on a diagonal 1 tsp. toasted sesame seeds Cut cucumbers in half lengthwise, then slice ¼" thick on a deep diagonal into 2"–3"-long pieces. Transfer cucumbers to a large bowl, add salt, and toss to combine. Cover and chill at least 1 hour and up to 12 hours. Drain cucumbers.

66

Whisk garlic, tahini, lime juice, soy sauce, vinegar, miso, ginger, sugar, and sesame oil in a small bowl to combine. Pour dressing over cucumbers and toss well to coat.

Transfer cucumber salad to a platter. Drizzle with chili oil and top with scallions and sesame seeds.

Salt-and-Pepper Cauliflower 4 S E RV I N G S

Who really wants to deepfry at home? Leave that hassle to the restaurants and instead just roast these cauliflower florets in the oven until deeply browned.

1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper ½ cup plus 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided 1 large head of cauliflower, cut into 1"–2" florets Kosher salt 3 medium shallots, thinly sliced 12 oz. silken tofu 2 Tbsp. white miso 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 medium jalapeños, halved, seeds removed, finely chopped 3 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice Cilantro leaves with tender stems and steamed rice (for serving) Place a rack in lowest position of oven; preheat to 450°. Whisk pepper and ¼ cup oil in a large bowl to combine.

Add cauliflower, season with salt, and toss to coat. Spread out cauliflower in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet and roast until dark brown and crisp underneath, 15–20 minutes. Remove from oven and turn cauliflower over.

Roast until second side is dark brown and crisp, 10–15 minutes.

Meanwhile, heat ¼ cup oil in a medium skillet over medium. Cook shallots, stirring occasionally, until deeply golden brown and beginning to crisp, 6–8 minutes. Transfer shallots to a blender, add tofu and miso, and purée until smooth. Transfer tofu sauce to a small saucepan and set aside. Wipe out skillet.

Pour remaining 3 Tbsp. oil into same skillet and add garlic and jalapeños.

Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden and crisp and jalapeños darken slightly, about 4 minutes. Strain through a finemesh sieve set over a small bowl.

Season garlic and jalapeños with salt; set aside. Let oil cool and set aside for another use.

Place saucepan with tofu sauce over medium-low heat and cook until warmed through. Once you see a bubble or two, remove from heat and stir in lemon juice; season with salt.

Spoon tofu sauce on a platter and top with roasted cauliflower; scatter cilantro and reserved crispy garlic and jalapeño over. Serve with rice alongside.

Smashed

CUCUMBER Salad

CRUNCHY GREENS With Fat Choy Ranch P. 71

68

mushroom

Sloppy P. 71

BoK ChoY With Brown Sauce and Crispy Garlic

Crunchy Greens With Fat Choy Ranch 4 S E RV I N G S

When he was a kid, one of the few vegetables Lee would eat was romaine lettuce with ranch dressing. (“To be honest, it was mostly ranch with a touch of lettuce,” he says.) With vibrant herbs and peppery watercress, this salad is an update of that childhood favorite.

D R E SS I N G

1 small shallot, coarsely chopped 3 garlic cloves, crushed 1 small jalapeño, halved lengthwise, seeds removed, coarsely chopped ⅓ cup coarsely chopped dill ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 Tbsp. tahini 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 1 Tbsp. chopped bread-andbutter pickles Kosher salt S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY

½ head of romaine lettuce or 1 romaine heart, quartered lengthwise, cut crosswise 1" thick 2 baby bok choy, coarsely chopped 1 cup watercress Kosher salt 1 cup coarsely chopped cilantro, dill, Thai basil, and/or chives Purée shallot, garlic, jalapeño, dill, oil, tahini, lime juice, vinegar, pickles, and ¼ cup water in a blender until smooth; season dressing with salt.

D R E SS I N G

Combine romaine, bok choy, and watercress in a large bowl. Drizzle dressing over and toss to coat; season salad with salt.

Scatter herbs on top.

B O K C H OY A N D ASS E M B LY

6 garlic cloves, finely chopped 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil Kosher salt 1 lb. baby bok choy, quartered lengthwise Heat oil in a medium pot over medium-high. Cook mushrooms in a single layer, tossing halfway through, until browned, 8–10 minutes. (They may steam at first but will eventually brown.)

Pour in wine, soy sauce, and ¾ cup water, reduce heat to low, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are very soft, 8–10 minutes.

Transfer mushrooms and liquid to a blender and purée, adding more water by the tablespoonful as needed, until sauce is smooth.

BROWN SAUCE

Combine garlic and oil in a small skillet. Set skillet over low heat and cook, stirring occasionally, until garlic is golden and crisp, about 3 minutes. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a small bowl.

Season garlic with salt; set oil aside.

Heat 1 Tbsp. reserved garlic oil in a large wok or skillet over medium-high.

Add bok choy and 2 Tbsp. water and cover immediately (a baking sheet works great if you don’t have a lid).

Cook 1 minute. Uncover and toss, then re-cover and cook until bok choy is tender at the core, about 2 minutes.

Spoon some brown sauce in a large shallow bowl or on a platter; arrange bok choy over. Top with crispy garlic.

B O K C H OY A N D ASS E M B LY

FOOD STYLING BY LILLIAN CHOU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIA PAPPAS.

S A L A D A N D ASS E M B LY

Bok Choy With Brown Sauce and Crispy Garlic

Mushroom Sloppy 6 S E RV I N G S

“This dish is our riff on Vanessa’s Dumpling House sesame pancake with Szechuan beef sauce, a sandwich I’ve eaten so much that by now I’m likely made up of 10 percent sesame pancake,” Lee says.

4 S E RV I N G S

It doesn’t get much better than a beautiful vegetable simply steamed and accompanied by oyster sauce. To veganize, cooked-down mushrooms, rice wine, and soy sauce are puréed to create a condiment with similar umami punch.

BROWN SAUCE

3 Tbsp. vegetable oil 8 oz. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, caps thinly sliced ¼ cup Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice wine) or medium-dry sherry 3 Tbsp. soy sauce

½ tsp. ground cumin 3 Tbsp. Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice wine) or medium-dry sherry 2 Tbsp. vegetarian mushroom oyster sauce (such as Lee Kum Kee) Kosher salt

M U S H R O O M S LO P PY

6 oz. button mushrooms 6 oz. shiitake mushrooms 7 oz. smoked or firm tofu (half a 14-oz. package), drained, cut into 1"–2" pieces 1 medium onion, cut into a few large pieces ¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil 5 garlic cloves, finely chopped ¼ cup gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste) 1 tsp. five-spice powder

ASS E M B LY

2 1 6 2 ½ 1

Tbsp. vegetable oil tsp. toasted sesame oil English muffins, split scallions, thinly sliced cup coarsely chopped cilantro Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

Working in batches, pulse button and shiitake mushrooms in a food processor until finely chopped.

Transfer to a medium bowl.

Working in batches, pulse tofu in food processor until pea-size. Transfer to a small bowl.

Pulse onion in food processor until very finely chopped. Transfer to another small bowl.

Heat ¼ cup oil in a large pot over medium. Cook mushrooms, stirring occasionally, until browned and shrunken by about one third, 8–10 minutes. Transfer mushrooms back to their bowl. Wipe out pot.

Heat remaining 3 Tbsp. oil in pot over medium. Add onion and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is tender and browned around the edges, 8–10 minutes.

Add gochujang, five-spice, cumin, and tofu to pot and cook, stirring, until tofu and onion are coated, about 2 minutes. Pour in wine and cook just until alcohol smell has burned off, about 1 minute. Add oyster sauce and 4 cups water and return mushrooms to pot.

Partially cover pot and cook mushroom mixture until mixture is thickened and very soft and silky, 50–65 minutes.

Remove from heat and season with salt.

M U S H R O O M S LO P PY

ASS E M B LY Whisk vegetable oil and sesame oil in a small bowl to combine, then brush cut sides of each English muffin with oil mixture.

Heat a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Cook English muffins, cut sides down, until golden brown underneath, about 1 minute. Transfer to plates, arranging cut side up.

Spoon some mushroom mixture onto bottom halves of English muffins (you may have a bit extra) and top with scallions, cilantro, and sesame seeds.

Close up sandwiches.

71

For chef BRIAN YAZZIE and his team at GATHERINGS CAFE

in Minneapolis, sustainability is a way of life, impacting the purveyors they support, the ingredients they work with, and the people they serve

Corn, beans, and more from Gatherings Cafe’s Indigenousingredientfocused pantry

LAND STEWARDS T

H

E

a s t o l d t o E LYS E I N A M I N E

photographs by JAIDA GREY EAGLE

r e c i p e s b y B R I A N YA Z Z I E , VA N E S S A C A S I L L A S , A N D R I V I A N N A Z E L L E R

Crispy Salmon With Tomatillo Salsa P . 7 4 “ The health of the salmon reflects the health of the people,” says Vanessa Casillas, the café’s business manager and a citizen of Ho-Chunk Nation.

Her recipe highlights this bond and also nods to her father’s Mexican heritage (“He eats everything with salsa!”).

73

B

E I N G A N I N D I G E N O U S C H E F,

I think of myself as a land steward. It’s not just knowing my edible landscape but staying connected to the ecology of the food, knowing when to harvest and how much to harvest.

The women in my life taught me this. My mom and auntie foraged for wild potatoes, lamb’s-quarters, and a lot of sumac on Navajo Nation in the Southwest, where I grew up. My grandma introduced traditional Navajo foodways to me, showing me how to use all parts of the animal and treat plants as medicine. Sustainability has been the natural way of life for Indigenous people, long before the term became popular.

I learned to see food as art, the plate an empty canvas and the food my paint. Eventually, I started Intertribal Foodways, a catering company, with my wife, HoonMana Polk-Yazzie.

We traveled the world, making Indigenous food with Indigenous ingredients for celebrity chefs, big food conferences, and tribal communities. But as we did this, I realized there was a gap. I was cooking with ingredients foraged or purchased from Indigenous farmers to create decolonized recipes, while tribal communities were facing food insecurity and surviving on commodity food.

When the pandemic hit we stopped traveling. Minneapolis has been my home base for the past decade, and I wanted to help my community. So I called Ben Shendo, a friend of mine who was the executive chef of Gatherings Cafe inside the Minneapolis American Indian Center, asking him what I could do. Two days later we cleared the café’s pantry and began cooking 250 meals a day for elders, using 50 percent native ingredients. In September, Ben left the café and I got the opportunity to take it over.

Now I’m reimagining what Gatherings Cafe can be. I’ve prioritized not just hiring Indigenous womxn as cooks but having a gender- and nonbinary-balanced atmosphere to dismantle the patriarchy of the kitchen. We also started an internship program to teach Indigenous community members the basics of cooking as well as the fundamentals of Indigenous foods. We’re still cooking for elders and plan to continue doing that. Eventually, I’m hoping we can serve sit-down dinners, featuring dishes made with the native ingredients we give the elders and recipes from my team, some of which we’re sharing here.

My definition of sustainability is staying rooted in my community. It means not only creating art on the plate or feeding those in need but having mutual relationships with farmers and understanding our responsibility to the land. That’s what I’m doing at the café by reintroducing Indigenous food to native communities. I see it as a full circle.

– B R I A N YA Z Z I E , executive chef at Gatherings Cafe 74

Crispy Salmon With Tomatillo Salsa 4 S E RV I N G S

A sprinkle of cumin seeds tossed into the hot oil before laying in the fish adds aroma and extra texture.

S A LS A

1 2 2 ¼

lb. tomatillos, husked, rinsed serrano chiles garlic cloves, unpeeled tsp. cumin seeds Kosher salt 1 spring onion or 2 scallions, white and pale green parts only, finely chopped 3–4 sprigs cilantro, tough stems removed, chopped ½ tsp. dried oregano, preferably Mexican Lime wedges (for serving; optional) S A L M O N A N D ASS E M B LY

1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ¼ tsp. cumin seeds 4 6-oz. skin-on salmon fillets Kosher salt Dried oregano, preferably Mexican, cilantro leaves, avocado slices, and lime wedges (for serving) Preheat broiler. Place tomatillos, chiles, and garlic on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil, tossing once, until tomatillos are blistered in spots and starting to release some juices, 7–10 minutes.

Transfer to a medium bowl and cover. Let sit until tomatillos are softened, about 5 minutes. Uncover and let sit until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes.

Remove skins from chiles if desired and peel garlic; place in a molcajete or mortar and pestle along with cumin seeds and a pinch of salt. Grind until smooth.

(Or you can use a blender if you grind the cumin seeds before adding.) Add tomatillos and grind until a coarse purée forms. Stir in spring onion, cilantro, and oregano. Season with more salt if needed; squeeze in lime juice to taste if desired.

S A LS A

Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Sprinkle in cumin seeds. Season salmon with salt; arrange, skin side down, in skillet. Reduce heat to medium and cook, pressing down gently on fish, until skin is golden brown and crisp, 6–8 minutes. Turn over; cook until just cooked through, about 4 minutes.

Divide salmon among plates; spoon salsa over. Scatter some oregano and cilantro on top. Serve with avocado and lime wedges alongside.

S A L M O N A N D ASS E M B LY

T O P R O W : Line cook Brett Ramey; café business manager and internship coordinator Vanessa Casillas; line cook Meixi M I D D L E R O W : Bison rib eye about to be basted; executive chef Brian Yazzie; dried corn, ready for stewing with dried chiles, Labrador tea, and sage B O T T O M R O W : Line cook Josh Beck; tomatillo salsa coming together in a molcajete; sous-chef Rivianna Zeller

Beans and Greens Salad With CranberrySumac Dressing P . 7 8 Yazzie’s textural salad features dandelion greens. Elder Hope Flanagan of Dream of Wild Health farm showed his team how to forage for them in Minneapolis.

The Gatherings Cafe Network The kitchen team prioritizes buying native ingredients from Indigenous purveyors. Here’s what they’re stocking up on: 76

Ramona Farms Te p a r y B e a n s

Brownot ter Buf falo Ranch Bison

Native Har vest Wild Rice

Akimel O’odham farmer Ramona Buttons grows these velvety beans and more with her husband, Terry, on reservation land in Sacaton, Arizona. store.ramonafarms.com

For two decades Ron Brownotter has been rearing bison at Standing Rock Sioux Reservation in South Dakota.

He sells them whole to families. brownotterbuffaloranch.com

These high-quality, soft-textured grains are grown in the lakes of northern Minnesota, then hand-harvested by members of the Ojibwe tribe. nativeharvest.com

PLATE BY BEN SPEARS

Bison Rib Eye With Pickled Vegetables P . 7 8 While bison is red meat—which often has a high carbon footprint—the Indigenous way of raising the animal has been linked to increased plant diversity and reduced soil erosion. Here Yazzie pairs the game meat with garlicky pickles.

Beans and Greens Salad With Cranberry-Sumac Dressing

Bison Rib Eye With Pickled Vegetables

4 S E RV I N G S

4 S E RV I N G S

Yazzie uses a combination of cranberries and sumac to add bright acidity to this salad that features tepary beans. He seeks out the brown varieties that excel at holding their shape and are native to the American Southwest.

Bison has rich flavor yet is relatively lean, comparable to grassfed beef, which is a great substitute. The vegetables need at least two hours to pickle, so plan accordingly.

Continue to cook steaks, basting with oil, until golden brown underneath, about 3 minutes for medium-rare (internal temperature should hit 120°). Transfer steaks to a cutting board and let rest 10 minutes before slicing.

Sprinkle steaks with more smoked salt; serve with drained pickled vegetables.

P I C K L E D V E G E TA B L E S

1 scallion ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil or sunflower oil 2 sprigs mint 1 garlic clove ½ cup unsweetened cranberry juice or 1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries 1 Tbsp. sumac, preferably wild American 2 tsp. honey 1½ tsp. onion powder ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper Kosher salt B E A N S A N D ASS E M B LY

2 Tbsp. amaranth (optional) 1½ cups drained cooked brown tepary or other beans Kosher salt 6 cups dandelion or turnip greens (from about 1 bunch) 1 cup microgreens (optional) 2 oz. fresh goat cheese, crumbled

1 tsp. sunflower or extra-virgin olive oil 1 garlic clove, crushed 2 scallions, cut into 2"-long strips ½ tsp. cracked black peppercorns ½ cup maple vinegar or ⅓ cup apple cider vinegar plus 3 Tbsp. maple syrup 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp.

Morton kosher salt 1 lb. radishes and/or summer squash, radishes trimmed, thinly sliced R I B E Y E A N D ASS E M B LY

2 tsp. juniper berries, finely chopped 2 12-oz. bison or beef bone-in rib-eye steaks (½"–¾" thick) Smoked or kosher salt 1 Tbsp. sunflower or extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 2 sprigs sage 2 garlic cloves S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A spice mill or

mortar and pestle Separate dark green top from scallion and chop. Finely chop remaining white and pale green parts; keep separate. Heat oil, mint, and dark green scallion top in a small saucepan over medium-low until just warm; let cool.

Strain oil mixture through a fine-mesh sieve into a blender; discard solids. Add white and pale green parts of scallion, garlic, cranberry juice, sumac, honey, onion powder, pepper, and a couple pinches of salt. Purée until dressing is smooth. (If using whole cranberries instead of juice, strain dressing.) Taste and season with more salt.

D R E SS I N G

If using, toast amaranth in a dry medium skillet over medium heat, tossing often, until most of the grains have popped open, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl.

Toss beans with ¼ cup dressing in a medium bowl; season with salt. Arrange greens on a plate; spoon beans over.

Top with microgreens (if using), goat cheese, and amaranth and drizzle a little more dressing over.

B E A N S A N D ASS E M B LY

78

P I C K L E D V E G E TA B L E S Heat oil in a small saucepan over medium. Cook garlic, tossing, until light golden and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add scallions and peppercorns and cook until scallions start to wilt, about 1 minute. Add vinegar and salt and bring to a simmer. Transfer to a small bowl and add 1 cup cold water. Add radishes and/or squash; let sit at least 2 hours, or cover and chill up to 12 hours before using.

R I B E Y E A N D ASS E M B LY Heat a large cast-iron grill pan or skillet over mediumhigh. Toast juniper berries, tossing occasionally, until very fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a small plate and let cool. Finely grind in spice mill or with mortar and pestle. Reserve pan.

Sprinkle steaks all over with ground juniper, then season with smoked salt.

Lightly coat with oil and let sit 5 minutes.

Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in reserved pan over medium-high. Cook steaks until golden brown underneath, about 3 minutes. Turn over and add sage and garlic to pan.

Strawberry and Wild Rice Tartlets M A K E S 12

Rehydrating the dried cherries in hot water softens them enough to add body and sweetness to the strawberry filling in this six-ingredient vegan dessert.

Vegetable oil (for pan) Kosher salt 1 cup wild rice 8 oz. dried tart cherries 1 lb. strawberries, hulled, plus halved strawberries for serving Small mint leaves (for serving) Heat oven to 350°. Brush the cups of one standard 12-cup muffin pan or two standard 6-cup muffin pans with oil.

Bring 6 cups lightly salted water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Add rice, cover, and cook until water evaporates and grains split open, about 1½ hours.

Spread out rice on a large rimmed baking sheet and let cool. Reserve pan.

Return rice to pan and, using your hands or a potato masher, smash until rice looks like a chunky mash and grains stick together.

Working one at a time, scoop about 3 Tbsp. rice into each muffin cup and, using an oiled spoon, press rice across bottom and all the way up the sides of each cup to create a hollowed-out shell.

Bake until rice is darkened in color and sides of shells are crisped, 25–40 minutes. Let shells cool in pans, then, using an offset spatula, carefully transfer to a platter.

Combine cherries and 2 cups cold water in a clean medium saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat.

Cook until soft and plump, 5–7 minutes.

Drain and let cool.

Transfer cherries to a blender and add 1 lb. strawberries; pulse until a chunky purée forms. Use filling immediately or transfer to an airtight container, cover, and chill until cold, at least 1 hour and up to 5 hours.

To serve, fill each shell with about 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. filling. Top with a strawberry half and a leaf or 2 of mint.

PROP AND FOOD STYLING BY ROSE DANIELS. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

D R E SS I N G

Strawberry and Wild Rice Tartlets “ You can do so much with wild rice,” says sous-chef Rivianna Zeller, who is part of the Bad River Band of Lake Superior Ojibwe. Case in point: these crisp rice shells filled with berries.

S T E P-BYSTEPS

TIPS & TRICKS

Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don ’t)

Store (most) onions in a dry, well-ventilated basket, bin, or bowl that’s out of the sun; in a cool place; and far away from any potatoes.

Peeling Back the Layers

ILLUSTRATIONS

BY TIM LAHAN

by SA R A H JA M P E L

Like rainy days and sad songs, onions will make you cry. And yet what would life— and by life we mean scallion pancakes, French onion soup, pierogies, Greek salad, chicken yassa, potato chips!—be without them? Here’s how to pick, store, slice, and use these all-purpose alliums.

Breath mints suggested.

P H OTO G R A P H S BY E M M A F I S H M A N

Basically

1

M E E T T H E F A M I LY Onions are members of the Allium genus, a group of pungent plants that also includes garlic, leeks, chives, ramps, and hundreds of other species. Since we can’t possibly cover all alliums (or even all onions), here are some we reach for often: STORAGE ONIONS

THE SOFTIES

L I T T L E G U YS

Because they’re cured (laid out to dry) after harvest, they stay good for months.

More delicate than storage onions, these should be stowed in the refrigerator.

Pro tip: If you need to peel a whole bunch at once (ugh), try blanching them first.

The Goes-WithAnything Pickle An instant wake-up for tacos, steaks, and salads, these low-effort pickles will keep in your fridge for at least two weeks. To make them…

MI

X TOGETHER

½ cup vinegar apple cider, red or white wine, unseasoned rice

Yellow If a recipe doesn’t specify, chances are it’s calling for one of these (also called brown onions). Severe when raw, they mellow out when roasted, sautéed, or caramelized.

Sweet With less sulfur and more water than yellows, reds, and whites, they’re mild, crisp, and good for eating raw, battering and frying in rings, and stuffing like tomatoes.

Shallots Beloved for their versatility and not-too-aggressive oniony flavor, shallots are a great sub for storage onions.

FYI, 1 whole bulb = 1 shallot, even if it has two lobes.

+

Spices and seasonings bay leaf, oregano or thyme sprigs, orange zest, dried hibiscus flowers, mustard seeds

+

1½ tsp. kosher salt Red Sharp and spicy, they’re often used raw in salads like kachumber. To make them extra crisp and a little less fierce, slice them and then soak in ice water as you prep.

Green Also called scallions, bunching onions, and, confusingly, spring onions (wrong!), they’re milder, softer, and more herbaceous than any of the storage bulbs.

Pearl A costar of coq au vin and beef bourguignon, they’re sweet and small (they’re grown in close quarters and harvested early) and come in red, white, and yellow.

+ +

1 Tbsp. sugar

1 cup water

POUR

OVER

1 thinly sliced red onion White Softer and milder than yellows and reds, these are popular in Latin American cuisines. Cook them quickly or serve raw, like on top of huevos rancheros.

Spring These are storage onions that are harvested early to give other bulbs room to grow. Grill, roast, or braise, whole or halved, tops and all.

Cipolline These Italian cuties are squat like saucers and naturally, rather than forcibly, petite. More sugary than big onions, they’re ideal for roasting whole.

For more ingredient 101s, crystal clear cooking advice, and easygoing recipes, go to eatbasically.com.

After about an hour or so, the acidic vinegar will soften the onion and take on some of its flavor.

3 Make Silky, Sweet Caramelized Onions…

Anyone who says you can caramelize onions in 15 minutes is lying. It takes low heat, plenty of patience, and the better part of an hour—try 40 minutes, minimum.

Start with thinly sliced yellow or red onions, then follow these tips: •Use a wide skillet or Dutch oven. With more space to

spread out, each slice can have contact with the pan, which means more even cooking and more room for moisture to evaporate.

•Grab a lid. For the first 10–15

minutes, keep the heat on low and cover the pan. The onions will steam so that they tenderize throughout instead of browning solely on the bottom.

•Sweeten with sugar. When

onions caramelize, their natural sugars oxidize. But a pinch of the good old granulated stuff can help speed up the process.

•Resist the urge to turn up the heat. Even when you uncover

the pan and start stirring every few minutes, keep the heat on medium to avoid scorching the onions before they reach a uniform chocolaty brown.

•Deglaze as needed. If you

PHOTOGRAPH BY HEIDI’S BRIDGE

notice stickage or premature browning, pour in a couple tablespoons of water and scrape—those stuck-on bits are a source of flavor.

•Or take it to the oven. For less babysitting (but less even color), toss a big mound of thinly sliced onions with olive oil and a splash of water, season with salt, then roast on a parchment-lined baking sheet at 400°, stirring every 10 minutes or so, until golden brown and softened, 40–50 minutes.

4 …THEN TURN THEM INTO DIP You’ve got the onions, now bring on the dairy. Caramelize 1½ lb. onions (about 3 large) , either on the stove or in the oven (see No. 3), then let cool. Mix in 1½ cups plain whole-milk Greek yogurt (or, if you want a richer dip, try replacing ½ cup with sour cream and/or mayo) and 2 tsp. fresh lemon juice ; season with salt and a lot of black pepper . If you want, grate in ½ garlic clove . Sprinkle with chopped chives and cayenne pepper . Serve with crudités (cucumbers, carrots, radishes) and/or potato chips.

5 Make Onions the Headliner To turn a whole heap of onions into a vegetable side, leave them large—whole if small, halved or wedged if bigger—and dress them with something assertive like agrodolce (sweet and sour sauce), miso-butter, or fiery chutney. Try Andrew Tarlow’s Roasted Onions With Vinegar: Roast a mix of small and medium onions (in their skins!) at 400° until totally tender, 30–40 minutes.

Let cool, then halve through root ends, peel, break apart into petals, and drizzle with olive oil and red wine vinegar to taste.

Who needs greens?

M A Y 2 0 21 – 8 3

Basically

6 HOW TO SLICE IT, HOW TO DICE IT Cutting an onion can feel like trying to escape a maze blindfolded. One wrong turn—or slice—can send you down the path of no return. Let these step-by-step photos show you the way to your final destination:

7

HALF -MOONS

A Grate Tip!

2—Halve the onion from top to root. Peel.

3—Slice crosswise, moving from top to root end.

1—For shallower, more delicate arcs great for pickling, start as if you’re making half-moons.

2—Use the tip of your knife to cut a V-shaped notch around root (so the pieces separate when you slice).

3—Instead of slicing crosswise, slice lengthwise through both the root and the top at a slight angle.

SLIVERS

1—Trim the top, leaving the root end untrimmed.

When you’re looking for onion pieces that will disappear into a sofrito or bialy filling, skip the painstaking dice and grab your box grater. In mere minutes your halved, peeled onions will turn into fluffy shreds. Run your knife through the pile to eliminate any larger pieces that escaped the grater, then get cooking. Because the grater breaks down the onion more aggressively than a knife would, your pieces will reach a jammy, melting consistency faster.

8

COARSE OR FINE CHOP

No Onion, No Cry

1—Start with peeled onion halves with root ends intact. Make a set of slices parallel to board without cutting through root.

2—Make a second series of cuts perpendicular to those (watch your fingers!), going lengthwise from top of onion to root end.

3—Do a final set of cuts crosswise, top to root. For a finer chop, make more slices in each round or run the knife through the pile.

As onions grow they absorb sulfur from the soil and convert it to amino acids. When their cells are damaged (i.e., when the onion is sliced), those acids come in contact with enzymes that catalyze reactions that eventually release a volatile chemical compound that makes your eyes sting. So that’s the science (lite), but what’s the solution? Try this: •Use a sharp knife. A dull

•Chill peeled, halved onions

RINGS

in the fridge or in a bowl of ice water for 30 minutes to lessen the chemical’s effect.

•The most straightforward 1—Trim the top of your onion, then peel. (Don’t halve.)

8 4 – M A Y 2 0 21

2—Cut a thin piece from one of the curved sides.

3—Turn onion onto flat side.

Slice crosswise into circles.

solution, of course, is to wear goggles. You’ll look dorky, but who’s judging?

FOOD STYLING BY D’MYTREK BROWN

blade, which smashes rather than slices, does more damage to an onion’s cells.

Photograph / Jennifer Chase

P O D C A S T

P O D C A S T N E W E P I S O D E S A D D E D W E E K LY LISTEN ON SPOTIF Y / APPLE PODCASTS

recipe index

Say cheesecake!

P. 46

SALADS

Chana Masala p. 46 Halloumi Saganaki p. 43 Spicy Bulgur in Lettuce Cups p. 43

Beans and Greens Salad With Cranberry-Sumac Dressing p. 78 Crunchy Greens With Fat Choy Ranch p. 71 Smashed Cucumber Salad p. 66

APPETIZER

Halloumi Saganaki p. 43 Spicy Bulgur in Lettuce Cups p. 43 BEVERAGES

Orange Peel Chai p. 63 Rosemary Mezcal Fizz p. 34

SOUPS

Spring-y Brothy Beans p. 62 Hot Yogurt and Spinach Soup p. 43

Lemony Tortellini Soup With Spinach p. 10 SANDWICHES

Istanbul’s Famous Mackerel Sandwiches p. 46 Rustic Shrimp Toasts p.12 MAIN COURSES

SEAFOOD

All A’s Spring Salad With Mahi-Mahi p. 16 Crispy Salmon With Tomatillo Salsa p. 74

Istanbul’s Famous Mackerel Sandwiches p. 46 Rustic Shrimp Toasts p.12 MEAT

Bison Rib Eye With Pickled Vegetables p. 78 Pork Chops With Broccoli Salsa Verde p. 63 POULTRY

Chicken Breast With Peas and Croutons p. 14

Stir-Fried Noodles With Chicken p. 62 VEGE TARIAN

Chana Masala p. 46 Lemony Tortellini Soup With Spinach p. 10 Mushroom Sloppy p.71 VEGETABLES, SIDE DISHES

Smashed Cucumber Salad p. 66 DESSERTS

Pistachio and Mango Sans Rival p. 27 Sour Cherry Cheesecake p. 46 Strawberry and Wild Rice Tartlets p. 78

Bok Choy With Brown Sauce and Crispy Garlic p. 71 Salt-and-Pepper Cauliflower p. 66

bon appétit is a registered trademark of advance magazine publishers inc. copyright © 2021 condé nast. all rights reserved. printed in the u.s.a. volume 66, no. 4. Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published ten times a year by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. principal office: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.Roger Lynch, Chief Executive Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue; Jackie Marks, Chief Financial Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. postmaster: send all uaa to cfs. (see dmm 707.4.12.5); non-postal and military facilities: send address corrections to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. for subscriptions, address changes, adjustments, or back issue inquiries: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-765-9419, or email BNAcustserv@cdsfulfillment.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Appétit Magazine, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email reprints@ condenast.com or call Wright’s Media at 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please email contentlicensing@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondeNastDigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or call 800-765-9419. bon appétit is not responsible for the return or loss of, or for damage or any other injury to, unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork (including, but not limited to, drawings, photographs, and transparencies), or any other unsolicited materials. those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials for consideration should not send originals, unless specifically requested to do so by bon appétit in writing. manuscripts, photographs, and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope.

8 6 – M A Y 2 0 21

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE STRANGIO.

COOK THE COVER

sourcebook SHOPPING LIST THE POUR pp. 20–21

P. 20 MONTANYA RUM ORO, $30; montanyarum.com P. 20 NOVO FOGO TANAGER CACHAÇA, $39;

novofogo.co P. 21 BRUICHLADDICH THE CLASSIC LADDIE, $65;

bruichladdich.com P. 21 GOOD LIQUORWORKS GOOD VODKA, $35;

goodvodka.com

P. 76 NATIVE HARVEST WILD RICE 5 LB. BULK, $80;

nativeharvest.com P. 76 RAMONA FARMS TEPARY BEANS, $13;

520-418-0900; store.ramonafarms.com DINNER PARTY p. 88

CRATE & BARREL TOUR WINE DECANTER, $100;

crateandbarrel.com FONTANAFREDDA, 1971 Barolo; fontanafredda.it

makersmark.com

HEITZ CELLAR, 1979 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon; heitzcellar.com

P. 21 MATCHBOOK DISTILLING COMPANY

TRAVEL PLANNER

P. 21 MAKER’S MARK BOURBON WHISKY, $35;

Late Embers, $60; mdcdropshop.com

DISH DECODED p. 22

GREEN THUMB GEAR

ATLANTA HALAL MEAT & FOOD 3230 Caliber St., No.

P. 28 ARS PRUNERS, $37;

D107, Suwanee, GA; 678456-8212; atlhalal.com

pp. 28–31

fieldandflorist.com P. 30 HORI HORI GARDEN TOOL, $50; food52.com P. 30 INDIGO-DYED GARDENING GLOVES,

$15; prospectpine.com P. 31 CHICKEN WIRE CLOCHE, $24; gardeners.com P. 31 TRUE LOVE SEEDS, From $4; trueloveseeds.com

THE EQUIPMENT

pp. 36–37

P. 36 MIELE G7000 SERIES SMART DISHWASHER,

from $1,600; ajmadison.com P. 36 SAMSUNG SMART SLIDE-IN INDUCTION RANGE WITH FLEX DUO & AIR FRY, $3,300;

samsung.com P. 37 BREVILLE SMART OVEN AIR, $400; breville.com P. 37 LG INSTAVIEW DOOR-IN-DOOR INSTAVIEW REFRIGERATOR,

INDUSTRY SHIFTS p. 24 OYSTER OYSTER 1440 Eighth St. NW, Washington, D.C.; oysteroysterdc.com SWEET SPOT pp. 26–27

MOCHIKO instagram.com

/mochikocincy GREEN THUMB GEAR

pp. 28–29

GRANOR FARM 3480 Warren Woods Road, Three Oaks, MI; granorfarm.com RADICAL FAMILY FARMS

Sebastopol, CA; 707-210-2773; radicalfamilyfarms.com THAO FAMILY FARMS Fresno,

CA; instagram.com /kongthao03 URBAN GROWERS COLLECTIVE Chicago;

urbangrowerscollective.org

WHY WE WASTE & HOW TO STOP pp. 48–63

CRISPY, CRUNCHY, SAUCY, TASTY (OH, AND VEGAN) pp. 64–71 FAT CHOY 250 Broome St., New York City; 347-7785889; fatchoynyc.com

$22; amazon.com

pp. 72–79

from $1900; lg.com

P. 58 EPICA STAINLESS STEEL COMPOST BIN,

THE LAND STEWARDS

pp. 72–79

P. 76 BROWNOTTER BUFFALO RANCH BISON;

brownotterbuffaloranch.com

THE LAND STEWARDS

GATHERINGS CAFE, MINNEAPOLIS AMERICAN INDIAN CENTER

1530 E. Franklin Ave, Minneapolis; 612-879-1700; maicnet.org/gatherings-cafe

Barry Jenkins’s Dream Dinner Party This Academy Award–winning writer, producer, and filmmaker throws down with soul food, vegan sides, and exceptional wine

Want to decant too? Tr y Crate & Barrel’s Tour Wine Decanter ($100; crateandbarrel.com).

F I L M S BY D I R E C T O R

Barry Jenkins, including Moonlight and If Beale Street Could Talk, have been nominated for dozens of awards and have won quite a few, most notably an Oscar for best picture. His latest project, The Underground Railroad, a series for Amazon Studios, is based on the novel by Colson Whitehead, himself a Pulitzer Prize winner.

But we’re not here to talk about accolades; we’re here to talk about dinner. — D A W N D A V I S Who would you invite to your ideal dinner party and why?

Ms. Toni Morrison, Eileen Ahearn, and [the actor] André Holland. Eileen was a lifelong friend of Ms. Morrison’s. She works with the James Baldwin estate, which was how I got the rights to adapt If Beale Street Could Talk. One of the earliest screenings of Moonlight was a DVD that Eileen personally took to Ms. Morrison. I hear 8 8 – M A Y 2 0 21

that Ms. Morrison loved the movie. So I would use this opportunity to talk to her about it. The only thing I remember her saying was that she thought André Holland was dreamy.

Do any of your characters from film or TV get an invite?

Yes, two characters from The Underground Railroad: John Valentine, who in our depiction owns a vineyard, so he’d bring some bangin’ wine, and Mingo, his nemesis in the show. They have this beautiful Booker T. Washington—W.E.B. Du Bois dynamic, and at a dinner party you want a bit of friction.

You’ve got this mix of literary giants, fictional characters, and actors. What do you serve?

Soul food. It’s a way for me to bring some other people to the party. I used to have this roommate, Jesse Dubus. He made this fried chicken 12, 14

years ago where he brined it overnight and then deep-fried it. It was so good. I’d get Jesse to come make the fried chicken.

Joi McMillon, my editor on The Underground Railroad, Beale Street, and Moonlight, is from the South and makes the best mac ’n’ cheese. And my partner Lulu’s brother, Anthony Wang, is a great chef here in L.A. Lulu and Anthony make really awesome vegan collard greens.

You said a guest would bring outstanding wine. What wine do you have in mind?

I’ve become a wine enthusiast during the pandemic. We’d have an excellent 1971 Barolo, Fontanafredda Barolo. And because I was born in 1979, we’d also serve a Heitz Cellar Napa Valley cab.

What kind of table setting do you have?

We mostly use ceramics. We like the idea that someone

handmade this thing that we’re eating off of, and I’m into decanters for the wine. We’d pick a really nice crystal decanter. The color palette is warm, golden. Exposed filaments and candles.

And what’s the conversation starter?

Lulu and I do these exercises where you sit across from the other person and just stare into their eyes for three minutes.

We might start off with a staring silence to break the ice. We’ve all been apart for so long that there’s almost this instinct to blab everything out at the top. I want to ease into the night.

Besides Moonlight, would you talk about any of your films?

Only if Ms. Morrison would want to. Otherwise, I’d be curious to hear what she thinks about the last year. We would all cede the floor to Ms. Morrison.

I L LU S T R AT I O N BY J OA N A AV I L L E Z

INTERIOR BY WELCOME PROJECTS; PHOTO BY LAURE JOLIET

Design advice for real life.

Renovation guides.

Before-and-after inspiration.

Material sources.

Everything you need to make a home your own—from the editors of Architectural Digest. @getclever

archdigest.com/clever