BA - August 2020

SIMPLE SUMMER RECIPES

Peach and Sesame Crumble P. 75

Sour Cream and Onion Potato Salad

Salt-and-Pepper Fish With Scallion Rice

Tomato and Roasted Garlic Pie

P. 6 0

P. 67

P. 52

FOR CHANGE, FOR JUSTICE, FOR THE FIGHT

NAACP.ORG/DONATE

August VOLUME 65 NUMBER 6

ONE VERY GOOD REASON TO FIRE UP THE GRILL

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY JUDY MANCINI.

P. 5 5

Keep It Simple Summer Corn and Chickpea Bowls With Spicy Tahini P . 4 4 Kimchi Toast P . 4 7 Zucchini-Lentil Fritters P . 4 8 Sesame-Scallion Chicken Salad P . 51 Tomato and Roasted Garlic Pie P . 5 2 Fish Tacos al Pastor P . 5 5 Spiced Lamb and Dill Yogurt Pasta P . 5 6 Glazy Barbecued Chicken P . 5 9 Sour Cream and Onion Potato Salad P . 6 0 Salmon Burgers With Pickled Cucumbers P . 6 3 Coconut-Creamed Corn and Grains P . 6 4 Salt-and-Pepper Fish P . 6 7 Nut Butter Granola Bars P . 6 8 Paneer With Burst Cherry Tomato Sauce P . 7 1 Tropi-Cobb Salad P . 7 2 Peach and Sesame Crumble P . 7 5 Fresh Fruit Tart With Almond Press-in Crust P . 7 6 O N T H E C O V E R Peach and Sesame Crumble (for recipe, see p. 75). Photograph by Laura Murray. Food styling by Susie Theodorou.

August

‘TIS THE SEASON P. 10

9 The Buy Find out why we’re big on bamboo.

BY ALIZA ABARBANEL

10 Family Meal If you’re not having tomatoes with dinner, how do you know it’s actually August?

BY CHRISTINA CHAEY

22 Person of Interest Comedian Phoebe Robinson on cooking during “quar-quar.”

AS TOLD TO HILARY CADIGAN

B AS I C A L LY 24 The Pour The easy-drinking wine of the summer isn’t wine at all.

BY MARISSA A. ROSS

26 Sweet Spot This peanut butter and jelly ice cream pie might just be perfect.

BY SOHLA EL-WAYLLY

28 Highly Recommend It’s time you got outdoors. This roaring pizza oven will convince you.

30 Talk You Through It A minty limeade that’s almost as good as air conditioning.

BY ANDY BARAGHANI

32 What’s Chaey Cooking?

Make any workday better with this prep-ahead lunch.

BY CHRISTINA CHAEY

2 – AUGUST 2020

36 The One-Sheet: Watermelon Everything you ever wanted to know about watermelon.

79 Don’t Sweat It The best cooking can also be the laziest.

BY SARAH JAMPEL

BY ALEX BEGGS

ETIQUET TE THE READ 38 Dear Future People On New Year’s Eve, Rachel Khong wrote a letter to her future self. She wasn’t expecting this.

88 Is It Ever Okay…

How to hide your booze, plus more picnic insights from Alex Beggs.

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 editor’s letter 86 recipe index 86 sourcebook

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSIE CRAIG. FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES.

H O M E & A WAY

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Acting Deputy Editor AMANDA SHAPIRO Creative Director MICHELE OUTLAND Director of Editorial Operations CRISTINA MARTINEZ Test Kitchen Director CHRIS MOROCCO

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4 – AUGUST 2020

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Pe a k To m a to On Sa l t It ’s Al l I n the V ib e Li q ui d G ol d The I c e Cre am M a n Put a n Egg on I t Ac i d Tri p P i z za , P i z za !

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. . . P L U S 2 30 + O T H E R E P I S O D E S A N D C O U N T I N G .

D ownloa d i t w he re ve r you ge t you r p od ca s t s .

Editor ’s Letter

I

during a time of incredible upheaval. The country is confronting long-standing racial injustices, and millions of Americans, and people around the world, are calling for change.

This reckoning is taking place at nearly every level of society, across every sector of public and private life—including here at Bon Appétit. I speak for the staff when I say that change will happen here. It already has.

In June our editor in chief stepped down.

While the search for his replacement is underway, I’m serving as acting deputy editor. I hope that by next month a new editor will be in place with a vision for a new BA. But in the meantime, I want you, our readers, to know that we are already something new.

We are determined to create not only a more inclusive and open workplace, but also a BA that encompasses far more of what this country, and its food, should represent. ’M W R I T I N G T H I S L E T T E R

That work has been happening in all kinds of very unglamorous ways—in virtual meetings and endless email threads and countless Google Docs. Somehow, meanwhile, this magazine issue got made. In many ways it’s an antidote to hard times. An ode to late summer, it’s full of simple recipes that minimize time in the kitchen and max out on all the beautiful produce this time of year. There are Buttered Tomatoes With Ginger (p. 18) for topping toast and anything else. There’s a PB&J ice cream pie (p. 26) for the warmest nights of the year. There’s a minty Limeade (p. 30), perfect for bringing to the beach… or just into your own backyard. And if your fridge still overflows with summer vegetables, please do like associate editor Christina Chaey and make a Farmers Market Farro Bowl (p. 32), which is inspired by bibimbap and makes for an infinitely swappable meal.

I hope this issue is proof that BA will always be a magazine for people who love food.

Regardless of where we go next, that part is not going to change. We’re just going to do an even better job, and in a workplace we’re proud of, and for a wider and more diverse audience than ever before. Thank you for sticking with us. We’re glad to have you here.

A M A N DA S H A P I R O ac ti ng de put y edit or

Photograph / Jennifer Chase

P O D C A S T

P O D C A S T N E W E P I S O D E S A D D E D W E E K LY LISTEN ON SPOTIF Y / APPLE PODCASTS

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W E’R E A L L A BOU T WAT E RMELON p. 36

P ho e b e n w it h S it d ow ck up o n , s to R o b in s td o o r u o y mer on sum e. nd mor g e a r, a

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This summer we’re eating our smash burgers on bamboo.

The sustainable, fastgrowing grass makes for lightweight, compostable plates sturdy enough to toss in the dishwasher but chic enough to instantly upgrade any alfresco situation— even if your picnic spot is really just your fire escape.

— ALIZA ABARBANEL

P H O T O G R A P H BY L A U R A M U R R AY

AUGUST 2020 – 9

Home & Away

Family Meal

Tomatoes: They’re what’s for dinner with these five peak season recipes

— C H R I ST I N A C H A E Y

10 – A U G U S T 2 0 2 0

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

AT BA, W E A R E

typically the ones telling people that perfectly ripe in-season tomatoes don’t need much to shine.

A sprinkle of salt, a drizzle of olive oil, maybe a squeeze of lemon—boom.

But these five summery weeknight dishes remind us that tomatoes can be damn fun to experiment with in the kitchen too, whether cooked down into a sauce for gently poached fish or sautéed with ginger, scallions, and soy sauce for an irresistible tomato toast.

Home & Away – Family Meal

Burst Cherry Tomato Pasta Smashing some of the tomatoes as they cook helps create a chunky sauce, while others stay whole for juicy surprises in every bite R E C I P E BY M O L LY B A Z

4 S E RV I N G S

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling 6 garlic cloves, smashed 2½ lb. cherry tomatoes (about 4 pints) 2 large sprigs basil, plus 1 cup basil leaves, torn if large ¾ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes

1½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more Pinch of sugar (optional) 12 oz. casarecce or other medium-size pasta 1 oz. Parmesan, finely grated (about ½ cup), plus more for serving

1. Heat ½ cup oil in a large heavy pot over low. Add garlic and cook, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until softened but not browned, about 2 minutes.

2. Increase heat to medium and add tomatoes, basil sprigs, red pepper flakes, and 1½ tsp. salt. Cook, stirring to coat, until some of the tomatoes begin to burst and release their juices, about 4 minutes. Smash some of the tomatoes with the spoon to help release their liquid, then continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until a chunky, thickened sauce forms (about half of the tomatoes should still be intact), 10–12 minutes.

Taste and add sugar if sauce is too tart and add more salt if needed. Pluck out and discard basil sprigs.

4. Drain pasta, add to pot with sauce, and cook, stirring, until coated, about 1 minute. Remove from heat; stir in 1 oz. Parmesan.

5. Divide pasta among bowls; drizzle with oil. Top with more Parmesan and 1 cup basil leaves.

12 – A U G U S T 2 0 2 0

A pinch of sugar helps balance the sauce’s natural acidity.

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN

3. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until al dente.

SOFT ON THE OUTSIDE. SOFT ON THE INSIDE. D E CA D E N T A L L OV E R .

NEW

Your best deserves our best.

©HDIP, INC

Home & Away – Family Meal

Chicken Thighs With Tomatoes and Feta This one-skillet chicken gives you the best of both worlds: crispy skin atop tender dark meat that gently cooks in the bubbly sauce underneath

4 S E RV I N G S

6 skin-on, bone-in chicken thighs (about 2¼ lb. total) ½ tsp. kosher salt, plus more 1¼ lb. cherry tomatoes (about 2 pints)

¼ 3 3 4

cup harissa paste Tbsp. red wine vinegar sprigs oregano, divided oz. feta, cut into ¼"-thick planks Crusty bread (for serving)

R E C I P E BY M O L LY B A Z

1. Pat chicken thighs with paper towels; season all over with salt.

Arrange skin side down in a cold large cast-iron skillet. Set over medium heat and cook chicken, undisturbed, rotating pan as needed for even browning, until skin is very deep golden brown and crisp and chicken releases easily from pan, 13–16 minutes.

Using tongs, transfer chicken to a plate, arranging skin side up.

3. Nestle chicken thighs into tomatoes, skin side up. Reduce heat to medium-low, bring to a simmer, and cook until chicken is just cooked through and flesh is no longer pink (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part near the bone should register 165°) and tomato sauce is thickened so that a wooden spoon dragged through it leaves a trail, 6–8 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit 5 minutes.

4. Break feta into large pieces; scatter over chicken. Some pieces will stay intact while others will soften into the sauce a little—and that’s exactly what you want. Pick leaves off remaining 2 oregano sprigs and scatter on top.

5. Serve with bread for sopping up any extra tomato sauce.

14 – A U G U S T 2 0 2 0

Look for harissa that lists peppers as the first ingredient, such as New York Shuk. nyshuk.com

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSIE CRAIG. FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES.

2. Combine tomatoes, harissa paste, vinegar, 1 oregano sprig, and ½ tsp. salt in same skillet.

Increase heat to medium-high and cook, stirring occasionally, until tomatoes burst and their juices start to thicken, 8–10 minutes.

O P E N

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Starbucks and the Starbucks logo are registered trademarks of Starbucks Corporation used under license by Nestlé. Pike Place is a registered trademark of The Pike Place Market PDA, used under license.

Home & Away – Family Meal

Fancy and Beautiful Tomato Salad Very loosely inspired by Lebanese fattoush, this is one of those dishes where you want to use only the ripest, most fragrant tomatoes in the bunch R E C I P E BY S A R A H JA M P E L

1. Gently toss heirloom and cherry tomatoes and 1¼ tsp. salt in a medium bowl to combine and set aside.

6 S E RV I N G S

1½ lb. heirloom tomatoes (about 3 medium), sliced into 8–12 wedges, depending on size 12 oz. mixed cherry tomatoes (about 2 cups), halved, quartered if large 1¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more 1 lemon

½ 6 2 2 1½ 3.5 ½ ½

garlic clove Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Tbsp. za’atar cups pita chips tsp. (or more) honey oz. feta, thinly sliced into planks cup basil leaves, torn if large cup mint leaves, torn if large

Try the toasty za’atar dressing on seared zucchini, slow-roasted fish, or corn on the cob.

2. Finely grate lemon zest into a small bowl, then grate in garlic; set lemon aside.

3. Heat oil in a small saucepan or skillet over medium until just starting to shimmer. Add za’atar and cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly darkened in color and fragrant, about 1 minute.

Add lemon zest and garlic and cook 10 seconds, then remove from heat. (You’re looking to cook off the raw flavor of the garlic without losing the brightness of the lemon.) Transfer za’atar oil to a heatproof measuring cup.

5. Cut reserved lemon in half and squeeze juice from 1 lemon half into a small bowl. Stir in honey and remaining ½ tsp. salt. Gradually add remaining za’atar oil, stirring constantly until emulsified. Taste dressing and add more lemon juice, honey, or salt if needed.

6. Add feta, basil, mint, and reserved tomatoes to bowl with chips and drizzle dressing over; toss gently to combine.

7. Spoon salad onto a platter, making sure to leave no juices behind. Eat fast for crunchy chips or let sit for a crispy-gonesoggy experience.

16 – A U G U S T 2 0 2 0

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSIE CRAIG. FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES.

4. Place pita chips in a large bowl and drizzle 2 Tbsp. za’atar oil over; season with salt. Mix well with a rubber spatula, aiming to coat chips without breaking them into too many pieces.

Home & Away – Family Meal

Buttered Tomatoes With Ginger A quick sizzle with ginger, butter, and soy sauce transforms tomatoes into a savory condiment we’re spooning over rice, pasta, and crusty bread

4 S E RV I N G S

4 scallions 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, cut into matchsticks 1½ lb. tomatoes (about 3 medium), cut into 1" pieces

2 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. white or regular soy sauce Kosher salt (optional) Toasted country-style bread or cooked rice or pasta (for serving)

R E C I P E BY A M I E L S TA N E K

1. Trim dark green tops from scallions and thinly slice; set aside for serving. Finely chop remaining white and pale green parts. Heat butter in a large skillet over medium. Add white and pale green parts of scallions and ginger and cook, stirring often, until fragrant, about 1 minute.

2. Add tomatoes and cook, turning gently with a spoon, until juicy and just warmed through, about 2 minutes. Add soy sauce and toss to combine. Taste and season with kosher salt if needed.

Top with reserved scallion greens.

Feel free to riff on this incredibly flexible recipe by adding chile flakes, cracked black pepper, or toasted sesame seeds.

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN

3. Spoon tomatoes over toast and sprinkle with more salt if desired.

18 – A U G U S T 2 0 2 0

Home & Away – Family Meal

Poached Cod in Tomato Curry

4 S E RV I N G S

Coconut cream adds richness and body to this 20-minute curry.

If you only have coconut milk, the creamy layer that sits at the top of the can will work just fine

3 Tbsp. ghee, virgin coconut oil, or vegetable oil 1 red chile, halved, seeds removed, thinly sliced 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

4 1 ½ 1¼ ¼

cardamom pods, crushed tsp. ground coriander tsp. ground turmeric lb. cherry tomatoes (about 2 pints) cup unsweetened coconut cream Kosher salt 4 5-oz. skinless cod fillets 1 cup basil leaves, torn if large

R E C I P E BY A N DY B A R AG H A N I

Start checking the fish for doneness on the early side; a gentle prod with a fork should cause it to flake easily.

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI.

1. Heat ghee in a medium skillet over medium. Cook chile, ginger, and garlic, stirring often, until garlic is softened but has not taken on any color, about 3 minutes. Add cardamom, coriander, and turmeric and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add tomatoes and cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the tomatoes burst and release their juices, 12–15 minutes. Stir in coconut cream; taste and season curry with salt.

2. Reduce heat to medium-low.

Season cod with salt and nestle into curry. Cover and cook at a bare simmer until fish is opaque throughout and beginning to flake, 5–7 minutes (thicker pieces will take longer to cook).

3. Gently transfer cod to shallow bowls. Stir basil into curry and spoon over fish.

A U G U S T 2 0 2 0 – 21

H o m e & A w a y – P e r s o n o f I n t e re s t

You Do You

So maybe comedian Phoebe Robinson isn’t a “fast” cook or a “great” cook, but maybe that’s okay C O O K I N G A L W AY S T A K E S

me a looong time. The recipe says, “Oh, prep is 15 minutes,” but for me it’s 30 because I’m chatting and goofing around. When I started doing comedy 12 years ago, my career became my focus; I never learned how to move fast in the kitchen.

BUT DURING THIS QUARANTINE,

time is all we have. I’m not one of the lucky New Yorkers with a balcony, so my boyfriend and I stay inside and just eat a lot of carbs. Quar-quar brings you back to the basics, which has been one of the humbling parts about it. You go, “I can’t control this, but I can meditate today or read 20 pages in a book or bake a cake.”

WE MADE A THREE-CHEESE

stuffed tortellini with this little pasta maker. You can’t waste time with this thing. You’ve got to get the dough flat, get the cheese in, pinch the corners—it’s stressful. After two and a half hours, the pasta came out too thick, but the flavor was there. I mean, if you got it at a restaurant, you’d be like, “This is for free, right?” But at home you’re like, “Oh, that’s cute.”

Doing the Most With Phoebe Robinson debuts this fall on Comedy Central.

I’M WORKING ON A NEW SHOW

MAKEUP BY DELINA MEDHIN; HAIR BY SABRINA ROWE.

called Doing the Most With Phoebe Robinson. We shot most of it before the coronavirus stopped production.

Each episode I have an experience with a different guest and we talk.

I did a ropes course with Kevin Bacon.

I baked cookies with Tan France from Queer Eye. He’s a great baker.

I was all, “Listen. I’m just going to do me,” which is the antithesis of baking.

Baking is like, literally, don’t do you.

Just follow the rules.

YO U H AV E T O L E T T H E P R O C E SS

be the joy, though. That’s something I’ve been able to carry into this quarantine. Don’t put pressure on yourself like you’re running some Michelin-starred restaurant. If it takes you two and a half hours to make a tortellini, well, then it takes you two and a half hours. Maybe next time it’ll only take you two.

— AS TO L D TO H I L A RY CA D I G A N

22 – AUGUST 2020

P H OTO G R A P H BY M A X B U R K H A LT E R

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H o m e & A w a y – Th e P o u r

THREE BOTTLES F O R DAY DRINKING

Wild Arc Farm Traminette, $15 The standard-setter from New York’s Hudson Valley

Monte Rio Cellars, $22 You know it’s from California thanks to the citrus notes

White Claw for Wine Lovers

Piquette is made for lazy summer sipping b y M A R I S SA A . R O S S

24 – AUGUST 2020

WHEN IT COMES

to day drinking, I’m all about “maintaining,” which is simple, at least in theory: The goal is to maintain a nice buzz rather than getting hammered and waking up the next day feeling like you ate a burrito filled with regret (spoiler: YA PROBABLY DID).

But maintaining is not as easy in practice, especially when you’re drinking 14 percent ABV wines in the sweaty backyard happy hours of late summer. This is where piquette comes in.

Piquette is basically White Claw for wine lovers: low ABV, high drinkability.

It’s made by adding water to

grape pomace—the solids left over after grapes are pressed for wine—and fermenting it into a deliciously sparkling bev that clocks in between and 5 and 9 percent. While piquette’s flavors vary depending on the grape variety, it always tickles your nose with fresh fruit and pricks your palate with salty effervescence that begs for a second round. It goes down as quick as your favorite flavor of La Croix but with the bright acid and soft tannin textures of your favorite pétillant-naturel.

Also piquette is much more than a fad. Spiked seltzer is a fad; ancient Romans were

not messing with spiked seltzer, but they did mess with piquette. It has been made for centuries across the globe as a way to use grape pomace that would otherwise be thrown out. It’s less wasteful than chucking the stuff and it gives winemakers another source of revenue.

But as I was saying, piquette is [chef’s kiss] perfect for maintaining. You may beat your friends at bocce while throwing back two cups of chilled Merlot, but you’re probably not making it to dinner. Piquette is different.

It won’t leave you with a burrito-size hangover…or any other regrets.

I L LU ST R AT I O N BY K AT I E B E N N

COURTESY DOMAINE DES GROTTES AND MONTE RIO CELLARS. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

Domaine des Grottes, $21 Gamay fans will love these prickly bubbles from Beaujolais

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can’t cook. no problem.

PHOTOGRAPH AND FOOD STYLING BY SOHLA EL-WAYLLY

Get the Look Briefly freezing the pie before adding the jelly keeps the jelly from sinking. It’s not essential, but it’ll make it pretty.

Dealer’s Choice An equal weight of pretzels or potato chips would also work in place of crackers in the crust. Taste the mixture before adding salt— you might not need it.

Home & Away – Highly Recommend

Pizza on Deck, Tongs in Hand Our slightly obsessive picks for what to buy this summer

Associate Food Editor

S O H L A E L - W AY L LY on

The Superior Tongs I never knew my foot-long tweezer tongs were special until I started getting 50 Instagram DMs a day about them. Don’t you all have these? Well, you should. The Küchenprofi tweezer tongs are easily among my top five desert-island kitchen tools. They can do anything regular tongs can—grip, grab, and flip steaks with ease — but with the precision and delicate touch of tweezers. They’re like metal chopsticks welded together and have just the right amount of resistance, with no fussy locking mechanism to slow you down. You can turn a slim piece of asparagus on the grill as easily as a hefty chicken thigh, which is what I’ll be doing all summer long. $14; amazon.com

BRAD LEONE

F O R M O S T O F MY L I F E,

Associate Editor

HIL ARY CADIGAN on

The Watering Can Doing Double Duty 28 – AUGUST 2020

my plant-watering strategy has been to gather up all the halfdrunk glasses of water around the apartment and pour them into anything that seems thirsty. Then one day at Ikea, I spotted this little number—and felt instantly transported to another, superior version of myself, one who has an iron and changes bedsheets on a regular basis. Now, as the proud owner of my very own

Vattenkrasse, I can confirm it makes watering plants far more sophisticated. But you know what else it is? The cutest pitcher my backyard barbecues have ever seen. It’s small, but that’s fine because the only guests these days are two cats and my husband, Rob. I fill it with icy water or some albariño and suddenly I’m Zooey Deschanel, hosting the quirkiest li’l sort-of party in town. $10; ikea.com

PHOTOGRAPHS: COURTESY OF GOZNEY (PIZZA OVEN); LAURA MURRAY (WATERING CAN); SOHLA EL-WAYLLY (TWEEZER TONGS).

ILLUSTRATIONS BY DAMIEN CUYPERS.

Te s t K i t c h e n Video Host

The Gozney Roccbox pizza oven has changed my pizza game for sure. It’s got two fuel sources—propane and wood—and a little pizza stone built in. Everything comes out fantastic, just takes a little technique. I preheat the oven so it’s rippin’ hot (950 degrees!), then turn it down right before I throw in the pizza. Perfect every time. $500; us.gozney.com

Style by the spoonful.

Same delicious yogurt, three new limited edition designs.

FRENCH STYLE YOGURT

INSPIRED BY OUR AUTHENTIC FRENCH RECIPE

Yoplait and Oui are trademarks of YOPLAIT MARQUES (France) used under license. © Yoplait USA, Inc.

H o m e & A w a y – Ta l k Yo u Th r o u g h I t

118 Words on…

The Limeade We’re Drinking All Summer Long

until sugar you think, a few minutes), then stir is dissolved. limeade at least 1 hour, then and top off each a 12-oz. can of club soda glass. Garnish with mint sprigs, then resume your lazy summer lounging. — A N DY B A R AG H A N I 30 – AUGUST 2020

I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY S U P E R F R E A K

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSIE CRAIG. FOOD STYLING BY MAGGIE RUGGIERO.

Cut 1 lemon and 1 lime into wedges and toss them into a pitcher. Slice 3 lemons and 4 limes in half, then squeeze their juice 2 large handfuls of mint leaves, ½ cup sugar, kosher salt. Smash down on and a pinch of

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H o m e & A w a y – W h a t ’s C h a e y C o o k i n g ?

A Grain Bowl That Doesn’t Bore Me So I bought too much at the market. This is the lunch that makes it okay

by CHRISTINA CHAEY

32 – AUGUST 2020

“buying what looks good” at the farmers market is that in the peak of summer, everything looks good.

The adorable palm-size pattypan squash. The heirloom tomatoes about to burst at their seams. The STONE FRUIT. It’s not until I get home and start unpacking the herbs, three kinds of lettuce, radishes, carrots, and scallions (and that’s all for a party of one, FYI) that I realize I just might have overdone it…again.

In my panicked (but thrilling!) race to eat my bounty before it goes bad, the first step is to wash, dry, and properly store everything I can. I know lettuce technically lasts longer when you leave the whole head unwashed and uncut. But you know THE PROBLEM WITH

P H O T O G R A P H S BY L A U R A M U R R AY

FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINA CHAEY. FOR DETAILS, SEE SOURCEBOOK.

A little bit of prep work has a big payof f— a tasty, versatile lunch just waiting for its gochujang-lime dressing.

%

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*International study conducted in 2019 by L’Oréal Paris with IPSOS, with data gathered in 8 countries with over 15,000 participants.

H o m e & A w a y – W h a t ’s C h a e y C o o k i n g ?

Swap Your Heart Out Use this recipe as a template you can apply to just about any grain, vegetable, and pickle you feel like. Get started with our suggestions below, then let the market be your guide.

THE GRAINS If it’s a hearty and chewy grain, it’ll work in this bowl. Try:

what I’m not reaching for when I’m raiding the fridge in search of a meal?

That gritty head of lettuce. On the contrary, when I open the fridge to neat piles of prepped produce, it’s easy to instantly visualize all the things I’m excited to cook in the week ahead: the kale and lentil salad, the broccoliand-bacon fried rice, and so on.

With these building blocks ready to go, turning a fridge full of seemingly random vegetables into a satisfying meal becomes a 10-minute task for the rest of the week. This was critical when I used to pack my lunch in the rushed mornings before biking to the office. Now that I’ve been working from home and the novelty of cooking lunch every day has worn off, I’ve found myself relying on quick meals that don’t require turning on the stove in the middle of the day.

One such staple I’ve been turning to in the hot summer months is this veg-loaded grain bowl. It’s loosely inspired by bibimbap, the iconic Korean rice dish, and it checks all my boxes for lunch: It’s flexible enough to accommodate any crunchy and/or leafy vegetables you have; it’s loaded with whole grains and protein from jammy eggs and pan-fried tofu; and if you cook the individual components ahead, there’s no need for the stove or oven at mealtime. A spicy-sweet gochujang vinaigrette ties it all together, and you’re left with a batch of quick radish pickles (yes, you pickle now!) that are equally delicious slipped into tacos and salads.

Come lunchtime my kitchen becomes a one-woman Sweetgreen assembly line. I grab the grains, eggs, dressing, and fried tofu along with handfuls of vegetables. I mix it all up by hand in a bowl, then make a point to plate it nicely in my favorite ceramic bowl and eat it at the dining table, ideally with screens off.

34 – AUGUST 2020

Short-grain brown rice

Spelt berries

Black rice

THE PICKLES Thinly slice any of the following crunchy vegetables and use in place of the watermelon radish: Golden beets

Carrots

Fennel

Cauliflower

THE VEG Pick at least three of the following for the optimal mix of colors and texture (aim for about two to three cups total): Shredded carrots

Thinly sliced baby bok choy

Thinly sliced scallions

Thinly sliced cucumbers

Blanched sugar snap peas

Pea shoots or alfalfa sprouts

ILLUSTRATIONS BY MIRIAM ROSS

Eating a homemade lunch honestly makes Chaey this happy.

Pearled barley

Farmers Market Farro Bowls 4 S E RV I NGS

Set yourself up for success: The farro, tofu, eggs, dressing, and pickles can all be made up to five days ahead.

1 1 4 1

¼ 2 1 3 2 2 1 1 1 1

cup semi-pearled farro tsp. kosher salt, plus more large eggs large watermelon radish or 6–8 red radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced on a mandoline if you’ve got one cup unseasoned rice vinegar Tbsp. sugar, divided 14-oz. block extra-firm tofu, drained Tbsp. plus ¼ cup grapeseed or vegetable oil, divided Tbsp. fresh lime juice Tbsp. gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste) Tbsp. mayonnaise Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. soy sauce Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil medium zucchini or summer squash, halved lengthwise, cut crosswise into ¼"-thick half-moons

2–3 cups thinly sliced or shredded raw vegetables (see sidebar for suggestions) Pour farro into a medium saucepan of boiling salted water, reduce heat, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until tender, 25–30 minutes. Drain farro and spread out on a rimmed baking sheet; let cool.

Meanwhile, using a slotted spoon, carefully lower eggs into a small saucepan of boiling water and cook 6½ minutes for an oozy, jammy yolk or 7 minutes for a slightly firmer middle.

Transfer eggs to a bowl of ice water with slotted spoon and let sit until cool enough to handle, about 2 minutes.

Remove eggs from ice water; peel and slice in half lengthwise.

Pack radish slices into a pint jar.

Whisk vinegar, 1 Tbsp. sugar, 1 tsp. salt, and ½ cup hot water in a small bowl until sugar and salt are dissolved. Pour brine over radish slices; let cool. Cover and chill at least 1 hour before using.

Cut tofu crosswise into ½"-thick slabs, then cut each slab on a diagonal to create 2 triangles. Pat dry with a clean

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A BON APPÉTIT BRAND

can’t cook. no problem.

kitchen towel. Heat 2 Tbsp. grapeseed oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Add tofu in a single layer, season with salt, and cook, undisturbed, until golden brown underneath, about 4 minutes. Turn over and cook until golden brown on second side, about 4 minutes. Transfer tofu to a plate; reserve skillet (no need to wipe out).

Whisk lime juice, gochujang, mayonnaise, ¼ cup grapeseed oil, 1 Tbsp. soy sauce, 1 Tbsp. sesame oil, and remaining 1 Tbsp. sugar in a small bowl. Taste; season with salt if desired.

Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil in reserved skillet over medium-high.

Add zucchini, season with salt, and cook, tossing just once or twice, until tender and blistered in spots, about 4 minutes. Add remaining 1 tsp. soy sauce and 1 tsp. sesame oil and toss to coat. Transfer to a plate.

To serve, divide farro among bowls.

Arrange eggs, drained pickled radish, tofu, zucchini, and raw vegetables of choice on top as desired. Drizzle each bowl with a few spoonfuls of dressing to your liking.

Home & Awa y – The O ne -S hee t

Everything you ever wanted to know about :

Watermelon G O S AVO RY WITH THESE SALADS

The

101

Wate rm el on P lus … fried rosemary + honey + yogurt

What Is It? Mostly water, TBH. But delicious, sweet, summery water!

jicama + jalapeño + lime juice

STORING

BUYING

Skip the knocking. Pick a symmetrical melon with a dull (not shiny!) rind and a yellowish (not white!) bottom, a sign that it ripened on the vine. Ripe = sweet.

If you’re buying cut melon, give it a sniff through the plastic; fragrant is good.

prosciutto + mint + orange juice + white wine vinegar

They can last two to three weeks in the fridge. Sliced, we’d say a week.

Break It Down

1. Cut an inch or so off the top and bottom of the melon so that it’ll stand up on a cutting board without rolling around.

2. Slice off the rind in strips, following the curve of the fruit and rotating as you go.

Pare off any remaining white bits.

L Is for Lycopene Don’t look down upon the lowly watermelon for being mostly water.

In the red melons, at least, there’s quite a bit of lycopene, a red pigment that protects cells from cancer.

3. Now slice the fruit top to bottom into planks, lay the planks flat, stack a few, and cut into strips, then crosswise into cubes.

WATERMELON RIND

Tell Me About Those Square Ones In Japan farmers grow watermelons in glass cubes that are sized to fit perfectly in small Japanese fridges.

But it’s really a luxurious flex—they charge up to $100 per melon.

36 – AUGUST 2020

T H R E E WAT E R M E LO N S TO K N OW A N D LOV E

Seedless

Yellow

Mini

Where did all the seeded guys go?

Demand for them has plummeted (wonder why?) so we’re living in a seedless world now.

These have the same green rind as red watermelons, but sunshiny flesh. Fun! They’re also sweeter, with honey vibes.

Awww! These li’l melons have a thinner rind and more flesh, but most important, they make for great personal punch bowls.

You hate food waste, right? Well, slice that crisp-tart rind into 1" pieces and pickle them in a mixture of rice vinegar, star anise pods, ginger, and black peppercorns.

Get the full recipe at bonappetit.com.

BY A L E X B E G G S

PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY. ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHRISTA GUERRA.

UNDERR ATED:

INTERIOR BY WELCOME PROJECTS; PHOTO BY LAURE JOLIET

Design advice for real life.

Renovation guides.

Before-and-after inspiration.

Material sources.

Everything you need to make a home your own—from the editors of Architectural Digest. @getclever

archdigest.com/clever

Th e R e a d

Dear Future People Last New Year’s Eve my friends and I wrote letters to ourselves that we’d open six months later.

I resolved to write more, cook more, eat better. But I never could have predicted…this

by R AC H E L K H O N G

with 2019 turning into 2020, my husband and I invited a small group of friends to our San Francisco apartment. It was only a few months ago, but if you’d said it was a lifetime, I’d believe it.

Back then we shared snacks, hands hovered over the same platters of shrimp cocktail and deviled eggs. We blew those paper party blowers, curling and uncurling them into one another’s face, sometimes setting them down and losing track of whose were whose. We picked them back up and blew them anyway. Among friends it hadn’t mattered. We weren’t thinking about germs. We didn’t know yet to be thinking about germs.

New Year’s Eve parties can be long, so we decided to count down the new year in different time zones. I O N N E W Y E A R ’S E V E ,

38 – AUGUST 2020

assigned friends to surprise us with a food or activity for Eastern, Central, and Mountain time. At 9:00 we ate apple cake that Michael had baked (for the Big Apple). At 10:00 we marched a second line down my small hallway, playing kazoos and festooned in the Mardi Gras beads Aku and Shane brought (New Orleans). At 11:00 we sipped cannabis cider from Meng and Neel (in honor of Colorado and its legalized weed).

When it became 2020 in our time zone, we played “Auld Lang Syne” on our kazoos. I brought out longhoarded stationery and stamps (Mister Rogers, Disney villains) so we could write letters to our future selves, earnest or otherwise. We sat on the living room floor to write them. I promised I’d send the letters in six I L L U S T R A T I O N BY S U B I N YA N G

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months—in June. As his return address, my friend Daniel wrote: “2010s, SF, CA, USA, Earth.”

Writing a letter to myself, I anticipated a quiet year. I was, embarrassingly, at a loss: unable to imagine how my life might look different because I didn’t have anything grand or spectacular planned. I wanted to finish the novel I’ve been working on for a while now (currently titled “New Thing—December 2016”). I resolved to use my gym membership—even the elaborate weight machines that intimidated me. I wanted to travel more, maybe to Hungary or Vietnam. And I wanted to cook and eat good food. The plan was to host dinner parties at our place one Sunday every month.

Now I see what a failure of imagination that was. I expected that simply because I hadn’t planned big things, big things were unlikely to happen. We had fun that night; the time had felt precious, singular. But none of us could have known that the simple act of gathering would become a thing to be missed. What we could have used, actually, was a letter from the future.

I didn’t know that only a few months later I’d miss picking up an avocado, squeezing it, putting it down, picking up another avocado, squeezing that one, and then deciding on the first one I touched. I’d miss forgetting something from my grocery list, then heading back to the store to get only that. I’d miss bulk bins. I’d miss picnics and dinner parties and restaurants. I’d miss sitting too close to friends at a dive bar, yelling to be heard.

a

T THE TIME OF

this writing it’s been nearly two months of sheltering in place. It’s early May and I’m still in possession of my friends’ letters, waiting to send them in June. Writing this essay is an endeavor almost as absurd as writing a letter to oneself before a history-shifting pandemic.

Because Bon Appétit is a print magazine, you’ll be reading this in August.

So basically I’m writing another letter to another future self, one who knows more than I do now, and certainly more than the person I was on January 1. When what I could really

Th e R e a d

use is you telling me how things are panning out. (Do we have a vaccine, August people? Is yeast still weirdly hard to find?)

In these uncertain times, when the only certainty seems to be the overuse of “in these uncertain times,” the fact that we have to cook, then eat, has been a dependably unchanging solace—or an inconvenient necessity, depending on the day. Since midMarch I’ve swung between two distinct poles when it comes to food.

There are the meals I blissfully cook over hours—chili pan mee with hand-

I’ll never throw away a bone before making stock from it. I wonder if I’ll never toss those infuriating tiny slivers of garlic you sometimes get in a head, painstakingly peeling each one instead, just in case I run out. I wonder if I’ll always adapt the recipe to what I have rather than go all the way back to the store for one missing ingredient.

I wonder if I’ll stay vigilant about the very back of my refrigerator and keep eating expired condiments because actually, usually, they’re totally fine.

(Confession: I kind of like old ketchup.

Darker, danker, umami-rich.)

Does life return to normal, reader of the future? Perhaps a bigger question is this: Was normal even good?

cut noodles; hamburgers with buns I baked; idli fermented for days—and then, on the other end of the spectrum, there are all the cans of sardines I’ve eaten over the sink and more PB&Js than I can possibly quantify.

Better represented than either extreme are all the meals in between: meals to use up limp celery, to finish the last of a box of a certain pasta shape, to polish off the half-cans of coconut milk. It’s this in-between cooking that, on the best days, has felt like a bulwark against chaos. Trying to use every grocery and pantry item can be as satisfying as finishing a puzzle. Making stock from a bag of saved vegetable odds and ends. Turning old brittle rice into far more compelling fried rice by cooking it with ancient kimchi—and learning that no kimchi is too old for this purpose! Here I’ve finally achieved what I’ve always aspired to: not wasting food. In a recent past life, I might have completely forgotten a bunch of cilantro and rediscovered it weeks later, in its new form: putrid brown slime. If I have cilantro these days, I think about it constantly, making a plan for every stem.

And it’s folly, of course, but I’m wondering what will stick. I wonder if, like people who lived through wartimes or the Great Depression, we’ll cook and behave differently after all this is a distant memory. I wonder if

Does life return to normal, reader of the future? Perhaps a bigger question is this: Was normal even good? Or was normal actually complacency and negligence? Can our new habits—the good ones, I mean—become permanent? I don’t want to go back to being the person who consumes blithely and lets cilantro rot.

i

F I COULD TELL

my past self anything from the future, it would be that taking care trumps making plans and resolutions. The phrase “in these uncertain times” is redundant because every time is uncertain. We only delude ourselves, myopically, into believing it isn’t. I want to tell future me that even if things haven’t gone back to how they were, maybe that’s not such a bad thing. Moving forward, maybe we can behave differently for the better—with more care.

Maybe we’ll recognize our time with friends as the precious thing it’s always been. Maybe we’ll be more grateful for the farmers who grew our food and for the hands that brought it to us. Maybe we’ll work toward equity, distributing food and other resources more fairly. That’s my hope for myself, at least—present and future selves included.

Rachel Khong is the author of the novel Goodbye, Vitamin.

Keep It Simple Summer R E C I P E S BY A n d y B a ra g ha n i , M o l l y B a z , C h r i s t i n a C ha e y, S o h l a E l -Wa y l l y, Sarah Jampel, Rick Martinez, and Chris Morocco

PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU.

17 recipes for a sun-kissed, salt-licked August

SESAMESCALLION CHICKEN SAL AD P. 51

Simple Summer

Corn and Chickpea Bowls With Miso Tahini This dish is all about assembly, not time at the stove. Quickly sauté chickpeas and corn, then simply gather the supporting characters: lettuce, tomatoes, avocado, feta, and lime.

4 servings 2 small jalapeños, seeds removed, chopped 1 ¾" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 2 small garlic cloves, finely grated 1 cup (packed) cilantro leaves with tender stems ⅓ cup fresh lime juice ⅓ cup tahini 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. miso Kosher salt ASS E M B LY

3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling 2 garlic cloves, lightly crushed 1 14-oz. can chickpeas rinsed, drained 3 ears of corn, shucked, kernels removed 1 Tbsp. spice blend (such as za’atar, vadouvan, hawaij, or berbere) Kosher salt 4 cups tender greens (such as Little Gem lettuce and/or watercress), torn if large 2 avocados, cut into wedges 4 small tomatoes, cut into wedges Crumbled feta, cilantro sprigs, and lime wedges (for serving)

D R E SS I N G

1. Purée jalapeños, ginger, garlic, cilantro, lime juice, tahini, miso, and 3 Tbsp. water in a blender until smooth. Season with salt.

Dressing can be made 1 day ahead. Transfer to an airtight container; cover and chill.

DO AHEAD:

2. Combine lettuce, avocados, and tomatoes in a large bowl. Drizzle lightly with oil and toss to combine. Season salad with salt.

3. Divide dressing among bowls and top with salad and chickpea mixture, then feta and some cilantro. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.

ASS E M B LY

1. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium. Add garlic and cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Mash garlic with a spoon and stir into oil. Add chickpeas and increase heat to medium-high. Cook, undisturbed, until golden brown and beginning to crisp underneath, about 3 minutes. Toss and continue to cook, tossing occasionally, until golden brown all over, about 2 minutes more. Add corn and 1 Tbsp. oil and cook, tossing, until corn kernels are golden around the edges and tender, 5–7 minutes. Sprinkle spice blend over and toss to coat. Season with salt.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

D R E SS I N G

I L LU ST R AT I O N S BY M I R I A M R O SS

45

Simple Summer

Kimchi Toast

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSEA KYLE. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU

One of the many reasons you’ll be grateful to have a jar of kimchi in your fridge at all times: this throw-together no-cook toast. Mix spicy kimchi with smooth cream cheese, top it with scallions and cilantro (or chives and basil would make a nice swap), slather it on some hardy toast, and crown it all with a little chili oil if you’ve got it. Suddenly you’ve made a low-lift breakfast, lunch, or snack that’s ideal for even the laziest of days.

4 servings 4 oz. cream cheese, room temperature ¾ cup finely chopped drained kimchi; plus more for serving (optional) 2 scallions, thinly sliced on a diagonal 1 cup cilantro leaves with tender stems ½ lime Kosher salt 4 ¾"-thick slices country-style bread, grilled or toasted Chili oil and toasted white sesame seeds (for serving)

1. Mix cream cheese and ¾ cup kimchi in a medium bowl.

2. Toss scallions and cilantro in a small bowl to combine. Squeeze in juice from lime, season with salt, and toss again.

3. Smear some kimchi cream cheese over each slice of bread. Top with scallion salad and some kimchi (if using). Drizzle with chili oil; sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Simple Summer

Zucchini-Lentil Fritters With Lemony Yogurt These crispy zucchini fritters take inspiration from the Bengali onion snack piyaju. For maximum efficiency, soak the red lentils for the flour-free batter while you salt and drain the zucchini. Once that’s done, these fritters will fry up in the time it takes everyone else to wash the sand off their feet.

4 servings ¾ cup whole-milk yogurt 2 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice ½ tsp. sugar Kosher salt

L E M O N Y YO G U RT

1. Whisk yogurt, lemon juice, and sugar in a small bowl to combine.

Season with salt.

Yogurt can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and chill.

DO AHEAD:

FRIT TERS

1 1 ½ 1¾ ½ ¼ 1 1 1

cup red lentils (masoor dal) medium zucchini (about 5 oz.) medium onion, thinly sliced tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more tsp. Kashmiri chile powder or ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper tsp. ground turmeric cup parsley leaves with tender stems Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest cup ghee or vegetable oil

FRIT TERS

1. Rinse lentils, then soak in 2 cups water at room temperature at least 1 hour and up to 12 hours. (Soaking the lentils makes them tender and a lot easier to blend.)

2. Meanwhile, trim ends from zucchini and cut crosswise into 3 pieces about 2" long. Cut each piece lengthwise into ¼"-thick planks. Stack a few planks and slice lengthwise into ¼"-thick matchsticks (about the size of a skinny french fry).

Transfer zucchini to a colander set in a medium bowl. Add onion and 1 tsp. salt and toss to combine. Let sit until vegetables look wilted and softened and about 1 Tbsp. liquid has released into bowl, 30 minutes to 2 hours. Gently pat dry with paper towels to remove any excess moisture.

3. Drain lentils and transfer to a food processor. Add chile powder, turmeric, and ¾ tsp. salt. Pulse, scraping down sides, until a purée forms. Transfer to a medium bowl and add zucchini and onion, parsley, and lemon zest. Toss with a rubber spatula to combine.

4. Line a rimmed baking sheet with paper towels; set a wire rack inside. Heat ghee in a medium cast-iron skillet over mediumhigh until a pinch of batter added to pan sizzles and sputters. Using a large spoon, scoop out about ¼ cup batter, then use a second large spoon dipped in the hot ghee to carefully scrape into pan; flatten with ghee-coated spoon. Repeat to make 3 more fritters. Fry until deep golden brown underneath, about 3 minutes. Turn over with a wide slotted spatula and fry until deep golden brown on second side, about 3 minutes. Transfer fritters to prepared rack to drain; season with salt.

Repeat with remaining batter (you end up with 8–10 fritters total).

5. Transfer fritters to a platter and serve with lemony yogurt alongside.

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI.

L E M O N Y YO G U RT

49

Simple Summer

Sesame-Scallion Chicken Salad This reimagined chicken salad is lighter and leafier than your standard picnic lunch—which in our book means we can eat more of it. Tender poached chicken, crisp greens, cukes, and scallions get tossed with a sesame dressing that takes its cues from gomae, a Japanese spinach salad.

PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU.

4 servings 2 skinless, boneless chicken breasts (1–1½ lb. total) 3 Tbsp. kosher salt, plus more 3 scallions, thinly sliced on a deep diagonal 3 Persian cucumbers ½ cup toasted sesame seeds, divided 2 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 2 Tbsp. tahini 1 Tbsp. soy sauce 1 tsp. honey ¼ tsp. crushed red pepper flakes ¼ head of romaine or green or red leaf lettuce or 1 head of Little Gem lettuce Big handful of cilantro leaves with tender stems ½ lime (for serving)

1. Bring chicken, 3 Tbsp. salt, and 5 cups water to a bare simmer in a medium pot over medium heat (chicken should be submerged). Be patient—this will take a little while. Once liquid begins to simmer, reduce heat to low and cook (water should not be simmering at all now) until juices run clear when thickest part of chicken is pierced, 8–10 minutes. Transfer chicken to a medium bowl; discard poaching liquid. Let chicken sit until cool enough to handle, then shred meat into big pieces; set aside.

2. Meanwhile, place scallions in a small bowl and pour in very cold water to cover; let soak 10 minutes.

3. Drain scallions in a mesh sieve or colander, then rinse under cold running water, swishing vigorously to rinse and to encourage them to curl up. Shake off as much water as possible and place in a large bowl; set aside.

4. Working one at a time, slice cucumbers in half crosswise, then slice each piece in half lengthwise. Place quarters cut side

down and slice in half lengthwise again to create 8 pieces total per cucumber.

Add to bowl with reserved chicken.

5. Set 1 Tbsp. sesame seeds aside in a small bowl for serving. Crush remaining sesame seeds in a mortar and pestle until some of the seeds have turned to powder, but with plenty of whole seeds left.

(Alternatively, you can pulse seeds a few times in a food processor or spice mill, then transfer to a medium bowl before proceeding.) Add lime juice, tahini, soy sauce, honey, and red pepper flakes and mash to create a paste. Add ¼ cup water and whisk to combine (if you don’t have a small enough whisk, work in with the pestle). Taste and season with salt.

6. Add lettuce and cilantro to bowl with reserved scallions. Pour half of dressing over and toss to coat. Arrange on a platter. Pour remaining dressing over chicken and cucumbers, toss to coat, and arrange over salad. Top with reserved 1 Tbsp. sesame seeds and squeeze juice from lime half over.

Simple Summer

Tomato and Roasted Garlic Pie A peak season tomato is a beautiful thing. But honestly, how many raw tomatoes can you eat? This savory pie calls for roasting tomatoes to concentrate their flavor, then layering them with two kinds of cheese atop a garlicbutter crust for a result as dramatic as it is delicious.

Makes one 9"-diameter pie

S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

springform pan

A 9"-diameter

1. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 475°. Arrange tomatoes on a rimmed baking sheet, covering entire surface (it’s okay if they overlap). Drizzle with oil; season with salt and pepper. Roast until tomatoes begin to look dry on top, 25– 30 minutes. Let cool.

2. Meanwhile, cook garlic and butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, swirling often, until butter foams and milk solids turn golden, 5–7 minutes. Strain garlic butter through a fine-mesh sieve into a heatproof measuring cup; transfer garlic and toasty bits to a cutting board.

Finely chop and set aside.

3. Reduce oven temperature to 375°.

Pulse crackers and ¼ tsp. salt in a food processor until fine crumbs form (you should have about 2 cups). Add eggs and 6 Tbsp. garlic butter and pulse until mixture is the consistency of wet sand; set remaining garlic butter aside. Transfer to springform pan. Using a flat-bottomed measuring cup, press crumbs firmly onto bottom and 1½" up sides of pan. Bake

crust until edge is just starting to take on color, 8–10 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack and let crust cool.

4. Mix Taleggio, Parmesan, mayonnaise, chopped thyme, remaining ½ tsp. salt, remaining ¼ tsp. pepper, and reserved chopped garlic and bits in a medium bowl.

Gently dollop half of cheese mixture over bottom of crust, then spread into an even layer with an offset spatula (don’t press too hard or you will break the crust). Layer half of tomato slices over and press down to even out layers. Repeat with remaining cheese mixture and tomatoes. Brush remaining garlic butter over tomatoes.

Top with shallot and thyme leaves.

5. Set pan on a rimmed baking sheet and bake pie until filling is bubbling vigorously and crust is browned, 60–75 minutes. Transfer to rack and let cool 1 hour before serving.

Pie can be made 1 day ahead. Cover loosely and chill.

DO AHEAD:

PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY. FOOD STYLING BY JUDY MANCINI.

2½ lb. mixed heirloom tomatoes, cored, sliced ¼" thick 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil ¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more 6 garlic cloves, peeled ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter 9 oz. Stoned Wheat Thins or other whole grain crackers 2 large eggs 10 oz. chilled Taleggio cheese, rind removed, coarsely grated (about 1½ cups) 2½ oz. finely crumbled Parmesan (about ½ cup) ½ cup mayonnaise 1 Tbsp. chopped thyme, plus ½ tsp. leaves 1 small shallot, thinly sliced

Simple Summer

Fish Tacos al Pastor Pork tacos al pastor may get the fame, but this fish al pastor, based on a version at Mexico City restaurant Contramar, deserves plenty of glory. A potent chile marinade adds lots of flavor before the fillets hit the grill and a do-ahead pineapple salsa is the perfect finishing touch. Best enjoyed outdoors with pineapple juice running down your arms.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY JUDY MANCINI.

8 servings 10 guajillo chiles, seeds removed 3 morita chiles, seeds removed 3 lb. skinless striped bass or halibut fillets, cut crosswise into 1½"-wide pieces ½ cup fresh orange juice ¼ cup store-bought or homemade achiote paste 5 garlic cloves, 4 whole, 1 finely chopped ¼ cup plus 3 Tbsp. fresh lime juice 1 Tbsp. plus 1½ tsp. kosher salt ½ red onion, finely chopped 1 habanero chile, finely chopped 2 cups finely chopped pineapple (from about ½ medium) 3 Tbsp. chopped cilantro, plus leaves for serving Vegetable oil (for grill) 16 corn tortillas Lime wedges (for serving)

1. Bring guajillo and morita chiles and 1½ cups water to a boil in a medium saucepan. Cover, remove from heat, and let sit 30 minutes to allow chiles to soften.

2. Place fish in a large bowl or baking dish. Transfer chile and soaking liquid to a blender. Add orange juice, achiote paste, 4 garlic cloves, ¼ cup lime juice, and 1 Tbsp. salt and purée until smooth, about 2 minutes. Set aside 1 cup chile sauce, uncovered, at room temperature for serving. Pour remaining sauce over fish and toss to coat. Cover and chill at least 1 hour and up to 3 hours.

3. Meanwhile, mix onion, habanero chile, pineapple, 3 Tbsp. cilantro, and remaining finely chopped garlic clove, 3 Tbsp. lime juice, and 1½ tsp. salt in a medium bowl. Cover salsa and chill until ready to use.

4. Prepare a grill for medium-high heat; thoroughly clean grate and brush with oil.

Working in batches if needed, grill fish, leaving a few inches of space between each piece, until marinade is dried and beginning to char, about 2 minutes. Using a fish spatula, release fish from grate, turn, and continue to grill until charred on second side and flesh flakes easily with a fork, about 3 minutes more. Transfer to a cutting board; let rest 10 minutes.

5. Grill tortillas until just beginning to brown in spots, about 30 seconds per side. Top each tortilla with a piece of fish, then a schmear of reserved chile sauce, a spoonful of salsa and some cilantro leaves. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.

D O A H E A D : Salsa can be made 4 hours ahead. Keep chilled.

Simple Summer

Spiced Lamb and Dill Yogurt Pasta This dish borrows the flavors of shish barak—lamb and pine nut dumplings from the Levant—and spins them in a pasta direction. And if you feel like riffing even further (or if you’d rather spend your time sunbathing than grocery shopping), go for it. No dill? Chives and parsley would be great. No lamb? Use another ground meat (or lima beans!). No currants? Any dried fruit works.

4–6 servings 1. Combine egg yolks, kefir, and 1½ cups dill in a blender; finely grate in 1 garlic clove and blend until smooth. Set purée aside. Finely chop remaining 1½ cups dill and set aside separately.

2. Melt butter over medium heat in a large skillet. Add pine nuts and cook, stirring often, until golden brown, about 2 minutes. Add dried currants and cook, stirring often, until plump, about 1 minute.

Scrape nut mixture into a small bowl; season with salt.

3. Wipe out skillet and heat over mediumhigh. Stir together cumin, pepper, and 1 tsp. salt in a small bowl. Place lamb in pan and use a sturdy spatula to aggressively flatten (like you’re making smash burgers); sprinkle spice mixture over. Cook, undisturbed, until lamb is well browned and crisp underneath, about 4 minutes. Hold back meat and drain off

all of the fat; discard. Break up meat into small pieces and mix in nut mixture. Finely grate in remaining 2 garlic cloves and add reserved chopped dill. Cook, stirring, until herbs are wilted, about 1 minute.

Set aside until pasta is ready.

4. Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until 1 minute shy of al dente (pasta will finish cooking in the sauce).

Drain pasta and return to pot.

5. Pour reserved purée over pasta and set over medium heat. Cook, stirring constantly, until sauce thickens enough to cling to pasta and just comes to a simmer, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat; finely grate zest from lemon half over pasta, then squeeze in juice. Season with salt.

6. Divide pasta among bowls and top with lamb mixture.

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES.

3 large egg yolks 2 cups kefir (cultured milk) or plain whole-milk yogurt 3 cups (lightly packed) dill fronds with tender stems (about 1 large bunch), divided 3 garlic cloves, divided 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter ½ cup pine nuts or slivered almonds ½ cup dried currants or raisins 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more 1 Tbsp. ground cumin 1½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 lb. ground lamb 1 lb. orecchiette or other short pasta ½ lemon

58

Simple Summer

Glazy Barbecued Chicken Sweet, sticky, charred, and crispy: Barbecued chicken is one of the surest signs of summer. Store-bought sauce has nothing on this easy homemade version, which uses maple syrup for sweetness and Sriracha for heat. Use whatever bone-in chicken parts you like and save the leftover sauce for everything else you plan to grill this week.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSIE CRAIG. FOOD STYLING BY KAT BOYTSOVA.

4–6 servings 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 3 garlic cloves, crushed 6 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste ½ cup pure maple syrup ¼ cup soy sauce ¼ cup Worcestershire sauce 2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 4 tsp. Sriracha or other hot sauce Vegetable oil (for grill) 1 3½–4-lb. whole chicken, cut into 6–8 pieces, or whatever bone-in cut of chicken you feel like cooking Kosher salt

1. Heat olive oil in a small saucepan over medium. Cook garlic, turning occasionally, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly and scraping bottom of pan, until slightly darkened, about 3 minutes. Add maple syrup, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, vinegar, and Sriracha. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer until flavors have come together, about 1 minute. Remove from heat. Transfer about half of barbecue sauce to a heatproof bowl and set aside for serving.

2. Prepare a grill for medium-high indirect heat (for a charcoal grill, bank coals on one side of grill; for a gas grill, leave one or two burners off); oil grate. Season chicken generously with salt. Grill chicken over direct heat, turning every minute, until browned on all sides, about 5 minutes.

Move chicken over indirect heat. Cover,

positioning vent (if your grill has one) over chicken, and continue to grill, keeping grill covered as much as possible and turning every 5 minutes or so, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part registers 140°–145°, 18–25 minutes, depending on the size of the pieces.

Baste chicken with barbecue sauce and grill, turning and basting occasionally, until an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part registers 160° for white meat and 165° for dark meat, about 10 minutes longer.

3. Arrange chicken on a platter. Serve with reserved barbecue sauce alongside.

Barbecue sauce can be made 2 weeks ahead. Transfer to an airtight container; cover and chill.

DO AHEAD:

Simple Summer

Sour Cream and Onion Potato Salad Some would call showering potato salad with potato chips “gilding the lily.” We would call it “extremely sensible and very tasty.” Bring this to your next backyard hang and decide for yourself.

2 1 ¾ ¼ 1 2 1 1 1 ¼

lb. baby Yukon Gold potatoes cup kosher salt, plus more cup sour cream cup mayonnaise Tbsp. onion powder tsp. Dijon mustard tsp. freshly ground black pepper garlic clove, finely grated bunch chives, thinly sliced, divided small red onion, very thinly sliced through root end ½ cup sour cream and onion potato chips

1. Place potatoes in a large pot and pour in 3 qt. water to cover. Add 1 cup salt and bring water to a boil over mediumhigh heat. (Yes, this is a lot of salt, but it’s the right amount to ensure potatoes are seasoned through and through.) Reduce heat and simmer, adjusting heat as needed, until potatoes are fork-tender, 15–20 minutes. Scoop out ½ cup potato cooking liquid and set aside. Drain potatoes in a colander and let sit until cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, combine sour cream, mayonnaise, onion powder, mustard, and pepper in a large bowl and mix well to combine. Add garlic and half of chives and mix just to incorporate.

3. Place red onion in a fine-mesh sieve and rinse for several seconds to take away some of its raw bite. Pat dry with paper towels. Mix half of onion into dressing; set aside remaining onion for serving.

4. Working one at a time, set potatoes on a flat surface and crush slightly with the palm of your hand. Add to bowl with dressing along with ¼ cup reserved potato cooking liquid and toss to combine. Do this while the potatoes are still warm so that they can absorb all of the seasoning. Don’t worry if the dressing looks a little loose and watery at the beginning—it will all get absorbed and become creamier as it sits. Taste and season with more salt or, if your dressing looks too thick, a splash more of potato cooking liquid.

5. Top potatoes with remaining chives and reserved onion and crumble potato chips over.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSIE CRAIG. FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES.

4 servings

61

Simple Summer

Salmon Burgers With Pickled Cucumbers Summer is for burgers, but that doesn’t have to mean beef.

We’re big on these salmon ones, which use fresh fish blitzed with ginger, garlic, and a smidge of mayo. You can go all out with the toppings or keep it basic (in a good way).

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI.

4 servings 1½ lb. boneless, skinless center-cut salmon, patted dry, cut into 2" pieces 5 scallions 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 1 garlic clove, finely grated 2 Tbsp. plus ⅔ cup mayonnaise 1 tsp. kosher salt, plus more 1 tsp. toasted sesame oil 4 tsp. unseasoned rice vinegar, divided 3 medium Persian cucumbers, shaved lengthwise ½ serrano chile, very thinly sliced 1 tsp. sugar ¼ cup (or more) vegetable oil ½ cup rice flour 2 cups tender herbs (such as mint and/or cilantro) ¾ cup trimmed watercress 2 tsp. toasted sesame seeds (optional) 4 brioche buns, lightly toasted

1. Process one third of salmon (about 8 oz.) in a food processor, scraping down sides as needed, until very smooth and paste-like. Add remaining salmon and pulse until pieces are no bigger than ¼", 4–5 times (be careful not to make it too smooth). Transfer to a large bowl.

4. Toss cucumbers with a pinch of salt in another small bowl. Massage with your hands for a few minutes to soften and expel liquid; discard liquid. Add chile, sugar, and 2 tsp. vinegar and toss to coat.

Cover and chill pickles until ready to assemble burgers.

2. Remove dark green tops from scallions and finely chop. Thinly slice white and pale green parts and set aside. Add chopped scallions, ginger, garlic, 2 Tbsp. mayonnaise, and 1 tsp. salt to salmon and gently mix to combine. Form mixture into 4 patties about ¾" thick. Transfer to a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Chill at least 1 hour or up to 3 hours.

5. Heat vegetable oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Remove salmon patties from refrigerator and sprinkle with flour just to coat the outside (you won’t need all of it). The patties will be a little loose, but you can always pat them back together with your hands before they hit the pan. Working in batches and adding more oil in between batches if needed, cook patties until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side (watch carefully; you don’t want to overcook).

3. Meanwhile, mix sesame oil, 1 tsp. vinegar, remaining ⅔ cup mayonnaise, and a pinch of salt in a small bowl; set sauce aside.

6. Toss herbs, watercress, sesame seeds (if using), reserved white and pale green parts of scallions, remaining 1 tsp. vinegar, and a pinch of salt in a medium bowl. Build burgers with buns, patties, herb mixture, pickles, and reserved sauce.

Simple Summer

Coconut-Creamed Corn and Grains This time of year fresh corn needs little more than a pat of butter and sprinkle of salt to make it sing. So are the coconut milk, cooked grains, and crispy onions a bit extra?

Sure. But that’s what takes this vegan recipe out of the choir and onto center stage.

2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil 1 serrano chile or jalape–o, thinly sliced 1 3" piece ginger, peeled, cut into matchsticks 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 scallions, thinly sliced, plus more for serving ½ tsp. ground turmeric 4 ears of corn, shucked, kernels removed 1 cup cooked grains (such as freekeh, farro, or quinoa) 1 cup unsweetened coconut milk, plus more for serving Kosher salt 4 Tbsp. store-bought crispy onions or shallots (such as Lars Own, French’s, or Maesri) Lime wedges (for serving)

1. Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium. Cook chile, ginger, garlic, and 2 sliced scallions, tossing, until softened and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add turmeric and cook, stirring often, just until darkened and fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add corn and increase heat to medium-high. Cook, tossing occasionally, until corn is beginning to lightly brown, about 5 minutes.

2. Add grains to skillet and cook, tossing often, until heated through and beginning to crisp around the edges, about 2 minutes. Add ½ cup coconut milk; season with salt. Bring to a simmer and cook, adding 1–2 Tbsp. water if needed to loosen, until flavors have come together, about 3 minutes.

3. Divide corn mixture between plates or shallow bowls and drizzle with more coconut milk. Top with crispy onions and more scallion. Serve with lime wedges for squeezing over.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSIE CRAIG. FOOD STYLING BY MAGGIE RUGGIERO.

4 servings

65

Simple Summer

Salt-and-Pepper Fish There are times when we’re happy to raid our spice cabinets, and there are times (ahem, August) when simple salt and pepper feels like enough. This recipe is inspired by the classic Cantonese dish in which the protein is usually battered and fried. Here, white fish is pan-seared with ginger and caramelized scallions until it’s golden brown. You could skip adding the butter and seasoning in the rice, but we think it makes the meal.

PHOTOGRAPH EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY KAT BOYTSOVA.

4 servings 1 cup short-grain sushi rice 8 scallions 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 3 Tbsp. vegetable oil, divided 1½ lb. skinless, boneless cod, cut into 2" pieces Kosher salt 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar 1 tsp. sugar 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1. Rinse rice in several changes of cold water in a medium bowl until water runs clear. Drain well, then transfer to a small saucepan. Pour in 1¼ cups cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Give rice a stir so grains don’t stick to the bottom. Cover pan and reduce heat to lowest setting. Cook, undisturbed, until water is evaporated and rice is tender, 18–20 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit, still covered, 10 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, trim dark green tops from scallions and thinly slice; set aside. Thinly slice white and pale green parts of scallions on a deep diagonal. Set aside separately.

3. Mix ginger and 2 Tbsp. oil in a medium bowl. Add cod and season with salt and sprinkle all over with pepper; toss to coat.

4. Heat remaining 1 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Cook cod, undisturbed, until golden underneath, about 2 minutes. Turn over and scatter reserved white and pale green scallion parts on top. Cook, shaking pan a few times, until fish is cooked through and some scallions are caramelized and some are just slightly softened, about 2 minutes.

Remove from heat.

5. Stir vinegar and sugar in a small bowl until sugar dissolves. Mix into rice. Add butter and reserved dark green scallion tops and gently stir until butter is melted.

Season with salt.

6. Transfer rice to a platter and top with fish; pour any pan juices over.

Simple Summer

Nut Butter Granola Bars Bound together with honey and nut butter, these just-sweetenough bars are sturdy enough to throw in a beach bag and substantial enough to power you through till sunset.

Makes 16 1. Preheat oven to 350°. Toast nuts and pumpkin seeds on a rimmed baking sheet until golden brown or slightly darkened in color, 10–12 minutes. Transfer to a food processor and let sit until cool enough to handle.

2. Reduce oven temperature to 300°.

Lightly oil a 13x9" baking pan and line with parchment paper, leaving overhang on long sides. Lightly oil parchment.

3. Add 1 cup oats to nut mixture in food processor and pulse until nuts are a sandy consistency and no whole oats remain.

Transfer to a large bowl.

4. Pulse any dried fruits that are larger than a raisin in food processor (no need to wipe out) until about the size of chocolate chips. Transfer to bowl with nut mixture.

Add remaining 1 cup oats and stir to combine, breaking up any fruit that is stuck together. Add remaining 3 Tbsp. oil and stir to coat. Add peanut butter, but don’t stir it in; set aside.

5. Bring honey, salt, and vanilla to a boil in a medium saucepan over medium heat (it will bubble up). Reduce heat to mediumlow and simmer, stirring occasionally, until it is foaming vigorously and smells like caramel, about 3 minutes.

6. Immediately pour honey mixture over peanut butter in reserved bowl (it will melt the peanut butter). Stir to combine, making sure to aggressively break up any clumps.

7. Using a fork or a small whisk, lightly beat egg white in a small bowl to thin out.

Add to oat mixture and mix until egg white is no longer visible.

8. Scrape oat mixture into prepared pan and press firmly into an even layer. (Be sure to really compact the mixture into the pan—it helps to use the bottom of a heavy glass or metal measuring cup.)

9. Bake granola bars until deep golden brown and no longer sticky or wet, 30– 35 minutes. Let cool 5 minutes, then lightly score into 16 long rectangles (1 cut lengthwise and 7 cuts crosswise will make bars that are about 6½x1"). Let cool completely in pan, then use parchment to hoist bars out onto a cutting board. Using a sharp chef’s knife, cut along marks to separate bars.

D O A H E A D : Bars can be made 1 week ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY SUE LI.

2 cups raw nuts (such as almonds, walnuts, pistachios, pecans, and/ or blanched hazelnuts) ½ cup raw pumpkin seeds 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for pan 2 cups old-fashioned oats, divided 1¼ cups dried fruit (such as tart cherries, raisins, currants, dates, apricots, and/or blueberries) ¾ cup unsalted or low-salt natural peanut butter ½ cup plus 2 Tbsp. honey 2 tsp. kosher salt 2 tsp. vanilla extract 1 large egg white

Simple Summer

Paneer With Burst Cherry Tomato Sauce You’ve got better ways to spend a nice day than in the kitchen. So when you look up from your patio chair and suddenly realize what time it is, make this speedy dinner loaded with cherry tomatoes, sugar snap peas, and the same spices you’ll find in a traditional matar paneer.

PHOTOGRAPH AND FOOD STYLING BY SOHLA EL-WAYLLY

2–4 servings 6 scallions, thinly sliced 1" piece ginger, scrubbed, cut into matchsticks 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 1 tsp. coriander seeds 1 tsp. cumin seeds ½ tsp. black mustard seeds ½ tsp. Kashmiri chile powder or ¼ tsp. cayenne powder ¼ tsp. ground turmeric 3 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 8 oz. paneer, sliced into ¼"-thick planks, patted dry Kosher salt 12 oz. cherry tomatoes (about 2 cups) 4 oz. sugar snap peas (about 1 cup), strings removed, halved on a diagonal if large Pinch of sugar (optional) ½ cup (lightly packed) mint leaves Cooked rice (for serving)

1. Toss scallions, ginger, and garlic in a medium bowl to combine. Using a mortar and pestle or the side of a chef’s knife, coarsely crush coriander seeds and add to vegetables along with cumin seeds, mustard seeds, chile powder, and turmeric; set aside.

2. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Arrange paneer in a single layer in pan and cook until golden brown underneath, about 1 minute. (If paneer is sticking, just give cheese a little more time to brown. It will release from pan once it is sufficiently crisped.) Using a slotted spatula or spoon, transfer paneer to a plate, leaving as much oil behind in pan as possible. Turn browned side up and season generously with salt.

3. Reduce heat to medium and add remaining 1 Tbsp. oil to same skillet. Cook reserved scallion mixture, stirring often, until scallions are wilted and mustard seeds begin to pop, about 2 minutes.

4. Add tomatoes, sugar snap peas, and 1 cup water to skillet and season with salt.

Increase heat to medium-high and bring to a simmer. Gently smash each tomato open with spatula (you just want to break them open a little) and simmer until tomato juices thicken slightly, about 3 minutes (it should still be pretty brothy and light).

Taste sauce and add more salt if needed.

If your tomatoes aren’t super sweet, you may need to add a pinch of sugar at this point to balance their acidity. Add paneer back to pan and simmer until warmed through.

5. Remove pan from heat and toss in mint.

Serve with cooked rice.

71

Simple Summer

Tropi-Cobb Salad When you’re sun-tired and beach-weary, a salad totally counts as dinner…but you gotta fill it out right. In this recipe tender lettuces get topped with juicy spiced chicken pieces, ripe mango, soft avocado, and cherry tomatoes.

There’s so much flavor and texture going on that there’s barely a need for a dressing: just a hit of lime juice, salt, and EVOO, and dinner is done.

4 servings

2 2 2 ¼ 6 1

tsp. ground coriander tsp. ground cumin tsp. ground turmeric crushed red pepper flakes Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided garlic cloves, lightly crushed skinless, boneless chicken thighs, cut into ¾" pieces Kosher salt Tbsp. fresh lime juice ripe avocados, sliced small ripe mangoes, sliced red onion, thinly sliced cups torn Little Gem or green lettuce leaves cup cherry tomatoes, halved Flaky sea salt, mild red pepper flakes, and basil and/or mint leaves (for serving)

1. Mix coriander, cumin, turmeric, and red pepper flakes in a small bowl; set aside.

Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium. Add garlic and cook, tossing occasionally, until golden brown all over, about 5 minutes. Increase heat to medium-high. Season chicken with kosher salt and add to skillet. Cook, tossing occasionally, until chicken is golden brown and nearly cooked through, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat and sprinkle reserved spice mix over. Toss several times to coat and let chicken sit in skillet until cooked through, about 1 minute longer.

Transfer to a plate and let cool slightly.

2. Whisk lime juice and remaining 5 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl; season dressing with kosher salt.

3. Arrange chicken, avocados, mangoes, onion, lettuce, and tomatoes on a platter.

Drizzle dressing over. Sprinkle with sea salt and red pepper flakes and scatter herbs over.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ALEX LAU

1 1 ½ ½ 7 6 4

Simple Summer

Peach and Sesame Crumble There’s only one kind of meal planning you should be doing in August: serving this crumble for dessert topped with vanilla ice cream while thinking about spooning the leftovers over yogurt the next morning. A trio of sesame— tahini, toasted sesame oil, and toasted sesame seeds— balances the sweetness of late-summer peaches.

PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU.

6–8 servings ⅓ cup raw sesame seeds 1 lemon 2½ lb. ripe peaches (6–7), thinly sliced ⅓ cup plus 1¼ cups sugar 1¾ tsp. kosher salt, divided 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter ½ tsp. ground cinnamon ⅓ cup tahini 2 tsp. toasted sesame oil 1–2 tsp. cornstarch Vanilla ice cream (for serving; optional)

1. Place a rack in top third of oven; preheat to 375°. Toast sesame seeds on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing halfway through, until golden brown, 12–15 minutes. Quickly transfer to a large bowl.

2. Meanwhile, finely grate zest from lemon into a medium bowl; set aside.

Place peaches in a 13x9" baking dish.

Halve lemon and squeeze 1 Tbsp. juice over peaches, then sprinkle ⅓ cup sugar and ¾ tsp. salt over. Toss gently to combine and let sit while you make the topping, at least 20 minutes.

3. Add flour and remaining 1¼ cups sugar and 1 tsp. salt to bowl with sesame seeds and whisk to combine.

4. Add butter and cinnamon to bowl with lemon zest. Microwave until butter is melted, about 1 minute. (Or, if you don’t have a microwave, melt butter with cinnamon and lemon zest in a small saucepan over medium.) Whisk in tahini and oil.

5. Scrape tahini mixture into dry ingredients and mix until incorporated (mixture should hold together when squeezed in your hand).

6. Peaches should look juicy at this point.

Add 1 tsp. cornstarch. If they’re really juicy, add another 1 tsp. Gently toss to combine. (If your peaches happen to be not-so-ripe and aren’t juicy, don’t add any cornstarch.)

7. Squeeze topping into big clumps, then break off uneven pieces and scatter over peaches.

8. Bake crumble until topping is well browned and firm, peaches are tender, and juices are bubbling, about 1 hour.

Let cool slightly.

9. Divide crumble among shallow bowls and add a scoop of ice cream if desired.

Simple Summer

Fresh Fruit Tart With Almond Press-In Crust Eating fruit tarts is great. Rolling out dough on a brutally hot day isn’t. Good thing this stunner has a no-fuss press-in crust.

CRUST

2 large egg yolks 1 cup all-purpose flour ½ cup almond flour (such as Bob’s Red Mill Super-Fine Natural Almond Flour) or ½ cup all-purpose flour 3 Tbsp. sugar 1 tsp. kosher salt ½ cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces

CRUST

C U S TA R D A N D ASS E M B LY

1. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Whisk egg yolks and 1 Tbsp. cold water in a small bowl to combine.

1. Bring milk and vanilla paste to a simmer in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Remove from heat.

2. Whisk all-purpose flour, almond flour, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl.

Add butter and rub and smash into dry ingredients with your fingers to create large, shaggy pieces (you want some pieces that are flat and thin and some that are large and irregular).

2. Meanwhile, whisk egg yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and salt in a medium bowl, starting slowly—it won’t want to combine easily at first, then vigorously, until very pale yellow and very thick, about 1 minute (the sugar should be nearly dissolved at this point). Whisking constantly, gradually add hot milk mixture.

Return custard base to saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat, whisking constantly. Simmer, still whisking constantly, until custard is thickened and has no cornstarch taste, about 3 minutes.

C U S TA R D A N D ASS E M B LY

2 cups whole milk 1 tsp. vanilla paste or 1½ tsp. vanilla extract 4 large egg yolks ⅓ cup sugar ¼ cup cornstarch ¼ tsp. kosher salt 3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into pieces 12 oz. fresh blueberries 6 oz. fresh blackberries, halved if very large A 9"-diameter springform pan or tart pan with removable bottom

S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

3. Drizzle egg yolk mixture over flour mixture and, using a fork or your fingers, toss into dough to incorporate. Knead dough in bowl until it starts to come together (it will still look a little dry; although, if it looks too dry and doesn’t come together, add 1–2 Tbsp. more water, but only if needed).

4. Turn dough out onto a clean surface and knead 1 or 2 more times. Divide dough in half, stack pieces, and press down firmly to smash together. Repeat process until dough is well combined and becomes slightly sticky, 2–3 more times.

Press dough into bottom and 1" up sides of pan and prick all over with a fork. Freeze until very firm, 20–30 minutes.

5. Bake crust until deep golden brown all over, 35–40 minutes. Let cool.

Crust can be baked 2 days ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room temperature.

DO AHEAD:

3. Remove custard from heat and add butter a couple of pieces at a time, whisking until fully melted before adding more, until all of the butter is incorporated.

Transfer to a medium bowl and cover with plastic wrap, pressing directly against the surface. Let cool.

4. Vigorously whisk custard until smooth and slightly loosened. Scrape into crust and smooth surface. Top with berries.

D O A H E A D : Custard can be made 4 days ahead. Keep chilled.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHELSIE CRAIG. FOOD STYLING BY CHRIS MOROCCO.

8 servings

S T E P-BYSTEPS

TIPS & TRICKS

Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don ’t)

Don’t Sweat It Low-effort strategies for minimizing your time in the kitchen so that you can maximize your time in the pool

by SA R A H JA M P E L

ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN

Cook noodles without turning on the stove.

See p. 82

P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N

AUGUST 2020 – 79

Basically

1 M A K E A S U N D AY S A U C E …

But not the kind that simmers for hours. You want one that comes together with little to no cooking and can hang out in your fridge for several days. Pick a couple to make over the weekend, then use them to transform slices of toast, a few eggs, or whatever vegetables you’ve got in the fridge into dinner.

2 …and Turn Raw Veg Into a Legit Summer Side The difference between an ascetic pile of raw vegetables and a glorious platter of crudités is the care given to the components.

You’ve made the dip, now ensure the dippers also reach their full potential:

H E R BY

PEANUT SAUCE

PONZU

MUHAMMARA

RICOT TA DIP

Whisk ½ cup creamy peanut butter, 2 Tbsp. soy sauce, 2 Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar, 5 tsp. Sriracha, one 1" piece ginger, peeled and finely chopped, 1 tsp. honey, and ½ cup warm water in a small bowl until smooth and pourable.

If sauce looks a little thick, thin with a splash or so of water. Mix with ramen noodles and pan-fried tofu.

VINAIGRETTE

Pulse 1 cup toasted walnuts, 4 roasted red peppers from a jar, ½ cup fresh breadcrumbs, 2 Tbsp. olive oil, 2 Tbsp. pomegranate molasses, 2 Tbsp. mild red pepper flakes, 1 Tbsp. tahini, 1 tsp. fresh lemon juice, and ½ tsp. paprika in a food processor until mostly smooth; season with salt.

Scoop up with pita or thin with water and stir into cooked grains like farro.

Blend ½ cup fresh ricotta and ¼ cup plain whole -milk yogurt with 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil and 1 finely grated garlic clove until smooth. Add 2 handfuls of tender herbs— parsley, cilantro, basil, mint, dill, or a combo— and blend until uniform.

Season with salt and pepper. Serve with vegetables or spread on bread and top with salted sliced tomatoes.

80 – AUGUST 2020

Mix one 1" piece ginger, peeled, 1 garlic clove, lightly crushed, 3 Tbsp . fresh lime juice, 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, 1 Tbsp. soy sauce, ½ tsp . honey, and ¼ tsp. toasted sesame oil; season with salt. Use to marinate steak, drizzle over seared salmon, or toss with rice noodles, cilantro, and shredded cabbage.

•And then there are the vegetables that have the best taste and texture when cooked.

Asparagus, green beans, broccoli, and cauliflower all benefit from a blanch. To do it, bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the veg until crisp-tender and bright green (well, when applicable).

Transfer to a salted ice bath to prevent carry-over cooking and amplify crunch.

•Some ingredients call for special treatment: Roast or pan-fry eggplant and zucchini rounds and boil fingerling potatoes.

For more ingredient 101s, crystal-clear cooking advice, and easygoing recipes, go to eatbasically.com.

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES.

•Even raw cut veg want to be seasoned.

Slice cucumbers, fennel, carrots, and radishes, then sprinkle with salt and spritz with whatever source of acid you used in your dip, like lemon juice or vinegar.

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Q U I C K - C O O K I N G P R O T E I N S O N LY Save the 2"-thick rib eyes and spatchcocked chickens for the grill, when you’ve got a drink in your hand and a breeze through your hair. If you’re indoors, choose protein that’s going to cook in minutes—shrimp, fish fillets, ground meat, tofu, and hanger, flank, or skirt steak are all good candidates. In general, remember that boneless cooks faster than bone -in, and the smaller and/or thinner the pieces, the less time they’ll need.

4 The Electric Kettle > The Electric Slide So you want to boil pasta but your kitchen is 1000°. Take this shortcut : Fill an electric kettle (we like the lightning-fast Cuisinart PerfecTemp Electric Kettle, $70; amazon.com), transfer the hot water to your pot, and bring it back to a boil, which will happen quickly. Or just skip the stove and use rice noodles instead: Arrange in a wide, shallow bowl or baking dish, then pour the hot water over the top and stir occasionally until soft.

82 – AUGUST 2020

If You’re Going to Cook, You Might as Well Make Extra If a component of a dish could easily become the building block of another meal (boiled eggs or potatoes, rice, lentils, grains, roasted or grilled veg, poached chicken breasts, dashi, chicken or vegetable broth), make a bit more than you need in the moment. Producing extra means you’ll have to heat up your kitchen only once—and the same goes for doing the dishes. Consider it the best way to dip a toe into meal prep without devoting a whole day.

PHOTOGRAPHS: CHELSIE CRAIG (STEAK WRAPS); EMMA FISHMAN (KETTLE). FOOD STYLING BY PEARL JONES (STEAK WRAPS).

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BITE-SIZE BLISS These salty-sweet Pretzel Crisps® ice cream sandwiches are just the right size for sharing. Serve them the next time you have a friend over, or just keep a batch in the freezer for yourself.

PRETZEL CRISPS ® ICE CREAM SANDWICHES Makes 12 sandwiches 24 Pretzel Crisps® 1 pint vanilla ice cream 2 oz. bittersweet dark chocolate, chopped (about ½ cup) 1 tsp. peanut butter ¼ cup virgin coconut oil Kosher salt Freeze two plates for at least 10 minutes. Get your assembly line set up. Fill a mug with hot tap water and submerge a 1-ounce scoop in it to warm up. Find 24 Pretzel Crisps® and arrange them in pairs. Once you're all ready, remove ice cream and one chilled plate from freezer.

Top one Pretzel Crisps® with one 1-ounce scoop of ice cream, top with another Pretzel Crisps®, and press down gently to adhere. Repeat five more times, then transfer first half of assembled ice cream sandwiches to freezer. Pull out second frozen plate and repeat process with remaining Pretzel Crisps® and ice cream, then transfer second plate to freezer. Allow ice cream sandwiches to freeze for at least 15 minutes before proceeding.

Meanwhile, make your chocolate peanut butter shell. Combine chocolate, peanut butter, coconut oil, and a large pinch of kosher salt in a small saucepan; heat over mediumlow, stirring, until the mixture is smooth, then remove from heat.

Remove chilled ice cream sandwiches from the freezer. With a spoon, drizzle sandwiches with chocolate peanut butter shell. Return to freezer and chill for at least a half hour before serving.

7 The Tomato Sandwich 2.0 Mayo on white bread is just the start. Here’s how to customize the classic combo from the bread up:

Get the recipe at bonappetit.com/hoagie

recipe index

sourcebook SHOPPING LIST

Lunch is served.

P. 32

THE BUY p. 9 XENIA TALER BAMBOO SIDE PLATES $48 for set of four; xeniataler.com

POKETO BAMBOO PLATES $40 for set of four; poketo.com

THE POUR p. 24 WILD ARC FARM TRAMINETTE $15; chambersstwines.com

DOMAINE DES GROTTES PIQUETTE $21; domainedesgrottes.com/en/

MONTE RIO CELLARS PIQUETTE $22; kingstonwine.com

HIGHLY RECOMMEND p. 28 GOZNEY ROCCBOX PIZZA OVEN $500; us.gozney.com

VATTENKRAUSE WATERING CAN $10; ikea.com

KÜCHENPROFI TWEEZER TONGS $14; amazon.com

WHAT’S CHAEY COOKING pp. 32–35 THE EVERYDAY BOWL $34; eastfork.com

Peach and Sesame Crumble p. 75 APPETIZER

Zucchini-Lentil Fritters With Lemony Yogurt p. 48 SNACK

Nut Butter Granola Bars p. 68 SALADS

Corn and Chickpea Bowls With Miso Tahini p. 44 Fancy and Beautiful Tomato Salad p. 16 Sesame-Scallion Chicken Salad p. 51 Tropi-Cobb Salad p. 72 MAIN COURSES SEAFOOD

Fish Tacos al Pastor p. 55 Poached Cod in Tomato Curry p.21 Salmon Burgers With Pickled Cucumbers p. 63 86 – AUGUST 2020

Salt-and-Pepper Fish p. 67 MEAT

Spiced Lamb and Dill Yogurt Pasta p. 56 PASTA

Burst Cherry Tomato Pasta p. 12 Spiced Lamb and Dill Yogurt Pasta p. 56 POULTRY

Chicken Thighs With Tomatoes and Feta p. 14 Glazy Barbecued Chicken p. 59 Sesame-Scallion Chicken Salad p. 51 VEGE TARIAN

Burst Cherry Tomato Pasta p.12 Corn and Chickpea Bowls With Miso Tahini p. 44 Fancy and Beautiful Tomato Salad p. 16 Farmers Market Farro Bowls p. 35

Kimchi Toast p. 47 Paneer With Burst Cherry Tomato Sauce p. 71 Tomato and Roasted Garlic Pie p. 52 Tropi-Cobb Salad p. 72 VEGETABLES, SIDE DISHES

Buttered Tomatoes With Ginger p. 18 Coconut-Creamed Corn and Grains p. 64 Sour Cream and Onion Potato Salad p. 60 Zucchini-Lentil Fritters With Lemony Yogurt p. 48 DESSERT

Fresh Fruit Tart With Almond Press-In Crust p. 76 Peach and Sesame Crumble p. 75 Salted PB&J Ice Cream Pie p. 26

BASICALLY pp. 79–85 P. 82 CUISINART PERFECTEMP ELECTRIC KETTLE $70; amazon.com

bon appétit is a registered trademark of advance magazine publishers inc. copyright © 2020 condé nast. all rights reserved. printed in the u.s.a. volume 65, no. 6.

Bon Appétit (ISSN 0006-6990) is published ten times a year by Condé Nast, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. principal office: 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007.

Roger Lynch, Chief Executive Officer; Pamela Drucker Mann, Global Chief Revenue Officer & President, U.S. Revenue; Mike Goss, Chief Financial Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 123242885-RT0001. postmaster: send all uaa to cfs. (see dmm 707.4.12.5); non-postal and military facilities: send address corrections to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617. for subscriptions, address changes, adjustments, or back issue inquiries: Please write to Bon Appétit, P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617, call 800-765-9419, or email subscriptions@bonappetit.com. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within eight weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Bon Appétit Magazine, 1 World Trade Center, New York, NY 10007. For reprints, please email reprints@condenast.com or call Wright’s Media at 877-652-5295. For reuse permissions, please email contentlicensing@condenast.com or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at BonAppetit.com. To subscribe to other Condé Nast magazines on the World Wide Web, visit CondeNastDigital.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers.

If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 37617, Boone, IA 50037-0617 or call 800-7659419. bon appétit is not responsible for the return or loss of, or for damage or any other injury to, unsolicited manuscripts, unsolicited artwork (including, but not limited to, drawings, photographs, and transparencies), or any other unsolicited materials. those submitting manuscripts, photographs, artwork, or other materials for consideration should not send originals, unless specifically requested to do so by bon appétit in writing. manuscripts, photographs, and other materials submitted must be accompanied by a self-addressed stamped envelope.

PHOTOGRAPH BY LAURA MURRAY. FOOD STYLING BY CHRISTINA CHAEY.

COOK THE COVER

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THE LIST

by BON APPÉTIT

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Summer meals call for simple ingredients and the fresh, delicate, milky flavor of BelGioioso Burrata, which is the perfect addition to any recipe. Rich, creamy Burrata is best served in the simplest way, on its own or with grilled eggplant, asparagus, tomatoes, slices of prosciutto and grilled bread. Drizzle on a little extra-virgin olive oil and you are all set for the perfect summer meal.

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BITESHAPPENINGSPROMOSBONAPPETIT.COM/THELIST

Questionable Etiquette

Is It Ever Okay…to Bring a Single Serving to a Picnic?

Solicited advice for outdoor dining from indoor person Alex Beggs

I’ve gotten caught bringing something to a picnic and then eating it all myself. So now I just bring two vegetarian calzones or whatever so I can share one and still have one for myself (I’m an only child, shut up). Is that acceptable?

—SINGLE-SERVING SYLVIA

— C U R DL ED C A R L

Did you know that mayo has vinegar in it that actually PREVENTS microbial growth from happening? So it’s not the mayo you should fear but the egg, tuna, or chicken you’ve got bathing in it. The Department of Agriculture gives you a two-hour time limit on leaving those out of the fridge, but a few of us at BA have been known to extend that, shh.

I picked a nice shaded isolated spot to picnic with my family by a lake, but another group showed up and sat waaay too close to us. Now what?!

—SOCIALLY DISTANT SANJAY

What is the best way to camouflage booze when you technically shouldn’t have it in the park?

—INCOGNITO IVY

The capital-B best way? Paint the wine bottle with Elmer’s rubber cement and then carefully apply sticks and leaves until it blends in with the landscape. Don’t have an artist’s eye? I pour (nonsparkling) wine or prebatched Negronis into a Corkcicle canteen, which keeps it cold for hours.

88 – AUGUST 2020

Oooooh the shady spot by the LAKE. I can see why you don’t want to gather your blanket and move along. Time for what I call Gentle Confrontation.

Kindly address your intruders, “Hi there! I’m so sorry to bother you, but we’re still a bit spooked about germs given that whole thing. I don’t mean to be rude, but would it be possible to shift your blanket a few yards to the right?” Keep your tone warm and a little desperate. If they get hostile, move over yourself— no huffing!—and double down on having a good time.

How do you keep all the random dogs people brought from eating the food?

—MORE-OF - A -CAT-PERSON MIN

Seeing a soft-eared canine running off with my perfectly charred Ball Park Frank is just the trigger to unravel a month’s worth of self-help podcasts.

But as with toddlers and Labattdrunk boyfriends, you can’t tell a person how to control their creature. You can pull this line out, though: “Oh hey, Stefani?

Is there a command or something I can say to keep Captain Peppercorn from stealing the franks?” Maybe she’ll step in to do something. Maybe.

We adhere to a strict picnic rule: no disposable products.

Can we ask our friends to do the same when we picnic together, or should we supply these items for them?

—OP TIMISTIC OPAL

You’re doing a good thing, keep doing that. I’d bring silverware for everyone to avoid the whole kerfuffle. Because this is the kind of tiny issue that snowballs the more time you dwell on it.

If you’re sitting and stewing over a friend’s plastic spork, grudging and judging, you’re misplacing your outrage. Direct that at the larger forces to blame for earthruining out there, like ExxonMobil.

Enjoy this time with the people who make you happy; the cutlery isn’t going to help you clean out a flooded basement or dispose of a body. You know, the stuff real friends do.

What are the best Bon Appétit recipes to bring to a picnic?

—SUBSCRIBIN’ SHERMAN •Basically’s

Big Ass Beach Hoagie •No-Brainer Corn Salad •Spicy Kimchi Slaw •Broccoli Salad With Peanut Dressing •Caramelized Shallot Dip •Masala Fried Chicken •Jammy Pepper Pasta Salad •Salad Ramen •A mini tin of Maldon salt

Do you have bad manners? Find out by emailing your etiquette questions to staff.bonappetit@gmail.com.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CARI VANDER YACHT

My spouse is FREAKED OUT about mayo sitting in the sun, but I’m not. Do I have to leave the egg salad at home?

I’m a middle child, YOU shut up!

This whole thing confounds me.

I cherish my friends’ weirdo tendencies, but you can’t keep something for yourself and then turn around and smash on my Fritos Scoops. A picnic is inherently a sharing event, unless you have a food allergy, so coming empty-handed (not even a pitcher of sweet tea?) is a bad look. Either you need to invent an allergy, or learn how to make sour cream and onion dip.

Personal growth comes in many forms. Dip is one of the best.

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