Orange Coast Magazine - April 2022

RITA RUDNER: O.C. resident right at home in show this month

A P R I L 2022 BEST NEW RESTAURANTS /

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/ SUNRISES ACROSS THE COUNTY

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APRIL 2022 $5.95

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© 2022 City of Hope

City of Hope has been dedicated to curing cancer for nearly 80 years. Our highly specialized expertise is now in Orange County, where our NCI-designated comprehensive cancer center and four clinical locations provide access to more than 400 physicians and 1,000 scientists and researchers focused on ending every type of cancer. The future is hope, closer to home.

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APRIL 78

BEST NEW RESTAURANTS

This year’s robust crop of new places is our most impressive yet, revealing a dining landscape of inspiring resilience. We’re booking tables in a frenzy of gratitude.

Plus, we suggest your best bets for happy hour, value plays, and a wave of new Mexican spots.

“In 2013, I came to America with nothing but a backpack and a dream. Butcher’s House allows me to share my passion for cooking with the people who will continue to make that dream a reality. It is a true labor of love.”

—JEOFFREY OFFER, CHEF-OWNER OF BUTCHER’S HOUSE BRASSERIE, OUR RESTAURANT OF THE YEAR

BY GRETCHEN KURZ

94

PACKING A PUNCHLINE

Witty and charismatic Rita Rudner, who performs this month at Segerstrom Center for the Arts, discusses her comedy tour, upcoming memoir, and permanent move to Dana Point.

BY ASTGIK KHATCHATRYAN

96

GOOD MORNINGS

Check out these sunrise pictures at iconic spots around Orange County in a photo essay with submissions from our readers.

O N T HE COV ER

608 Dahlia photograph by Emily J. Davis

8 ORA NGE CO A ST • April 2022

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

When one place is everywhere you want to be.

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Homes from $1.2M-$6M | On-Site Design Studio | Scan QR Code to View Available Properties Obtain the Property Report required by Federal law and read it before signing anything.

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All recreational facilities are privately owned and operated as a club with mandatory membership fees. This does not constitute an offer to sell or a solicitation of an offer to buy in Ohio or in any other jurisdiction in which registration or any other legal requirements have not been fulfilled. © 2021 Red Ledges Land Development, Inc. ©2021 BHH Affiliates, LLC. An independently owned and operated franchisee of BHH Affiliates, LLC. Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices and the Berkshire Hathaway HomeServices symbol are registered service marks of Columbia Insurance Company, a Berkshire Hathaway affiliate. Equal Housing Opportunity.

APRIL 62

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EDITOR’S LET TER PEOPLE & PL ACES The view overlooking Ben Brown’s Golf Course

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’HOODS Spots behind The Camp in Costa Mesa

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PERFECT G E TAWAY Carlsbad off ers refreshed and refined options.

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C U LT U R E P H I L E UC Irvine professor Judy Tzu-Chun Wu chronicles the life of Patsy Mink, the force behind Title IX.

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O.C . E VENT S Cherry Blossom Festival, comedian Hasan Minhaj, and more happenings

10 O RA NGE C O AST • April 2022

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ST YLE & HOME Eco-friendly home decor from San Clemente’s Nômade Home S T Y L E TA L K WITH ...

Fullerton native Sarah Sunderman on her boutique, Cameo Appearance Vintage

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ON THE MARKET A LEED Platinum property in Corona del Mar makes it easy to live green.

40

ROOMS WE LOVE A unique kitchen from an interior designer in San Juan Capistrano

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FINDS Stripes from head to toe for spring

59

FOOD & DRINK Our winning Cocktail of the Year

60

THE BREAKDOWN Our critic’s choice for Dish of the Year

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5 QUESTIONS WITH ...

Chef John Park of Tableau Kitchen + Bar and Toast Kitchen + Bakery

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FOOD TRENDS New restaurants that turn up the spice

75

MY O.C .

An ode to trees, just in time for Earth Day

114

DINING GUIDE Chef’s table at Bello

by Sandro Nardone, renovation at Dick Church’s, plus all 217 of our dining reviews

132

PERSON OF INTEREST Jorge Diaz opens California’s first finger skateboard shop.

WEB EXT R A S

Cathy Thomas shows how to make her version of date bread, perfect to pair with cheese. orangecoast.com /cathythomas The Ranch at Laguna Beach’s environmental initiatives orangecoast.com /RanchLBenvironment Read more about Earth Month in O.C. orangecoast.com /EarthMonth22

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APRIL

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTIONS IN THIS ISSUE

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Style Home

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Q&A: Mike Cassidy, California Closets

48-56

Trends

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LAS VEGAS

68-69

The Cosmopolitan

70-71

Grand Canal Shoppes

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Virgin Hotel Las Vegas

Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian Resort Las Vegas

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POWER ATTORNEYS

104-105 Callahan & Blaine 106

Bentley & More LLP

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Meyer, Olson, Lowry & Meyers LLP

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Michelle A. Reinglass

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Paoli & Purdy, PC

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Samer Habbas

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West Coast Defense

112-113 Russell Kerr 12 Ora nge C o a st • April 2022

EXPLORE

Bar Louie NOW Casa Del Sol OPEN Cocina Mexicana J Zhou Lucille’s BBQ Luna Rossa Prego Restaurant RA Sushi Red Robin Thai Bamboo The Winery Restaurant The Yellow Chilli Union Market Utopia Caffe

COMING SOON Baked Dessert Bar Fast Hot Pot Rakkan Ramen Sal’s Pizzeria Yomies Yogurt

TheDistrictTL.com @DistrictTustin

@TheDistrictTustin

EASY ACCESS OFF TUSTIN RANCH ROAD, NEAR BARRANCA IN TUSTIN Photo: Short Rib Pappardelle from Prego Restaurant

EDITOR’S LETTER

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hat a relief it is to get back to a full slate of restaurant openings. My head is spinning from how many places have debuted in the past few months, and I’m eagerly anticipating the launch of many more soon. Not only did that make it a joy to choose our Best New Restaurants (Page 78) but we’ve got a great head start on next year’s list!

Our 2022 lineup features spots from all over the county, including two in Anaheim and two in Laguna Niguel. The winners’ food is just as varied: Chinese and Vietnamese; French and farm-to-table (with gardens on-site); Mexican and Italian; Southern comfort food and perfect pre- or postgame bites. Seven of the 10 winners have longtime roots in Orange County, and it’s a pleasure to watch some of our favorite chefs start new ventures here. We’re also welcoming fresh faces and their winning concepts from L.A. or overseas to O.C. But it’s not just the 10 Best New Restaurants we recommend. We’ve also got ideas for stretching dollars at counter-service places that feature luxury-level chefs focusing on their amazing food and nothing more. Many of us have spruced up our dining space at home, so now might be the time to delight in scrumptious fare in our own surroundings— without cooking it ourselves. Plus, we’re looking at happy hours. While many have fallen as a result of the pandemic, there are still plenty of worthwhile spots where you can imbibe and nosh. We ran out of space on Page 92, but I’d add Descanso in Costa Mesa to this list: grilled sweet corn with cotija cheese to die for, margaritas for $7 or less, and a welcoming atmosphere to keep your spirits up and your stress level down.

No matter what you’re in the mood for, we’ve got enough to keep you covered all year. Be sure to join us at our fabulous party May 25 and 26 to celebrate the winners (tickets at orangecoast.com/bestrestaurants).

MS. AL AN GIBBONS

E D I T O R-I N- C H I E F

A G I B B O N S @ O R A N G E C O A S T.C O M

M Y F AV O R I T E T H I N G S I N T H I S I S S U E As if we haven’t given you enough O.C. restaurants to try, there’s a Michelin-star winner in nearby Carlsbad.

This LEED-certified home with its hillside of solar panels has caught my eye for years.

PA G E 22

PA G E 38

14 ORA NGE CO AST • April 2022

“The Lorax” is one of my favorite children’s books, and its lesson is captured beautifully in this essay, just in time for Earth Day.

I saw Rita Rudner in Las Vegas a decade ago. I’m overjoyed to learn she’s as down-to-earth as she is hilarious.

PA G E 75

PA G E 94

illustration by M A R T H A N A P I E R

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WEST COAST Shana Wong, 808-386-0872, shanawong@me.com H AWA I I : D E S T I N AT I O N M A R K E T I N G Justin Nakaahiki, 808-739-2200 MIDWEST & TEXAS: CS MEDIA Cheryl Schuldt, 847-251-3483, fax: 847-589-8491 SOUTHEAST Whitney Dick, wdick@atlantamagazine.com

COMING SOON

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PLACE by

endless possibilities

• GOOD TIMES • morongocasinoresort.com

PEOPLE

PLACES

IN PL AIN SIGHT  T H E S C E N E The first and last holes of Ben Brown’s Golf Course sit between Aliso and Wood Canyons Wilderness Park and the Pacific Ocean.  G E T T I N G T H E R E The nine-hole course, which opened in 1950, is located at The Ranch at Laguna Beach resort.  E X P L O R E R C R E D I T Brian Nicklin @the_real_nizzy  B E H I N D T H E S H O T “I recently hiked the Aliso Peak to Coast Royale Beach trail, and the views of the golf course and our beautiful coastline were spectacular.”

33°30'48.69"N 117°44'52.28"W

April 2022 • OR A NGE COAST 19

PEOPLE

PLACES ’ H O O D S

WEEKEND CAMPOUT A quiet office park behind The Camp in COSTA MESA has remade itself as a foodie-friendly destination. by Robin Jones

Ú G O O D TO KN OW

Stop by Penelope’s Perfections Tuesday through Saturday for desserts and coffee at the outdoor bistro tables.

S A LT Y B E A R B R E WIN G

Known for its elegant wedding cakes and made-to-order birthday cakes, this bakery also offers custom iced sugar cookies, cake pops, and minidesserts such as lemon squares and petit fours. Even if you’re not in the market for special-occasion sweets, pop in for a slice of lemon raspberry or chocolate fudge cake and a cup of coffee, or buy some cupcakes or cookies to take home. 2952

The patio at this brewery fills up fast on weekends with beer lovers enjoying pints ($7 to $8) and half-pints ($4.50) of IPAs and lagers made in the massive stainless-steel tanks behind the bar. Order a Gnarwhal Blonde or Aloha Guava Kolsch and a bite from one of the visiting food trucks and sit at one of the wooden picnic tables to listen to the bands playing on the small stage in the corner. 2948

RANDOLPH AVE., 949-402-8328

RANDOLPH AVE., 714-486-2165

20 ORA NGE CO AST • April 2022

WO R K IN PRO G R E S S Bright and airy, with clean white walls, big sliding doors that open to a small patio, and a large skylight over the order counter, this cafe offers a short but satisfying menu: a burrito ($13) and breakfast sandwich ($11) in the morning, four sandwiches at lunch ($13), and an array of coffee, espresso, and tea drinks all day. Visit in the afternoon for a charcuterie board ($19 to $30) and a glass of wine. 2944 RANDOLPH AVE.

TH E IN CO N V E N IE N CE S TO R E The first thing you see when walking into this treasure trove of quirky gifts are the dried flowers hanging from a wood trellis built over the back half of the store. Start looking around, and you’ll find not only beautiful, everlasting bouquets but also all kinds of weirdly wonderful things, such as vintage Garfield memorabilia, hand-sewn patches, and an incense holder that looks like an orange traffic cone. 2944 RANDOLPH AVE.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PENELOPE’S PERFECTIONS

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PEOPLE

PLACES

P E R F E C T

G E T A W A Y

CARLSBAD

The city offers refreshed and refined options. by Anastacia Grenda

22 ORA NGE CO AST • April 2022

ROOMS WITH A VIEW

Park Hyatt Aviara Resort, Golf Club & Spa’s $50 million renovation showcases the hilltop hotel’s commanding views of the ocean and Batiquitos Lagoon. The fresh, coastal-inspired look extends to the property’s 327 guestrooms ($695 and up) and three new restaurants, including Ember & Rye from “Top Chef” winner Richard Blais. For sports and leisure, there are adult and family pools, a 15,000-square-foot spa, six tennis courts, a golf course, and a lagoon trail sprouting with spring wildflowers.

BEACH BEAUT Y

Stroll the 4-mile Carlsbad Seawall to admire the splendor of the city’s coast. Start a morning walk in the Village with a double chocolate croissant ($5) from gourmet doughnut shop The Goods or the Truly Madly Green drink ($11) from Choice Juicery, then head south along the seawall path from Carlsbad Boulevard. Along the way, stop and dip your toes in the water at Tamarack Beach

ABOVE The Flower Fields are in full glory this time of year in Carlsbad.

PHOTOGRAPH BY RENEE FISHER

T

ourists first came to Carlsbad in the 1930s for the mineral springs, but now there’s plenty more to draw visitors looking for a refreshing getaway. The 7-mile coastline and three lagoons offer everything from surfing to boating.

Charming Carlsbad Village is home to a lively dining and craft beer scene, plus an array of shops selling French soaps and Spanish olive oils, vintage clothing and contemporary ceramics. The north San Diego County locale means relaxation is a short drive away.

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PEOPLE

PLACES T I P

F R O M

A

L O C A L

“You’ve got to have great Mexican food and craft beer. Order the La Pachanga sampler appetizer at Norte, then go to Barrel Republic and try the Treevana IPA from Carlsbad brewer Burgeon Beer Company.”

—TIM WRISLEY, EDITOR AND

LEFT Park Hyatt Aviara Resort has three new restaurants and activities galore.

RIGHT The chef at Campfire is also in charge of the Michelinstarred Jeune et Jolie down the street.

or watch the surfers at Terramar.

Feel the need for speed? Rent an e-bike or golf cart at Beach Vibes to cruise the coast.

FINE FRENCH FOOD

A Michelin star is just the latest accolade for Jeune et Jolie.

This jewel box of a fine French restaurant on State Street was an instant hit when it debuted in 2018. Reserve a table indoors or out (both spaces are equally chic) and savor the $95 fourcourse tasting menu (add $70 for wine pairings). All the dishes, from the crudo to the canard, shine with sublime technique that showcases seasonal flavors. Talented executive chef Eric Bost also oversees the menu at sister restaurant Campfire down the street.

HEART OF GLASS

Carlsbad Village’s eclectic cultural scene includes the New Village Arts theater and 30-plus murals—including the Carlsbad

M AR K YOU R C ALE NDAR Created by Icon Fair from the Noun Project

Art Wall featuring the work of new artists every other month.

The latest addition is Barrio Glassworks, a family-run studio on Roosevelt Street. Buy a piece in the shop/gallery or watch the glassblowers work their magic in the hot shop. You can even schedule a session to make your own glass paperweight.

mals. They look too adorable to eat, but the tasty fillings inside— spicy chicken and broccoli in the pandas, or pork and caramelized onions in the pig buns—are worth it. The small eatery on Grand Avenue and Madison Street has a large menu that also includes ramen, noodles, poke, and more.

S T R AW B E R R Y F I E L D S

The only thing separating Cape Rey Carlsbad Beach from the coast is Carlsbad Boulevard, so naturally the ocean is a prime amenity. Cape Rey provides all the gear you need (chairs, umbrellas, towels) for a day at the beach and offers private and group surf lessons. Take in the ocean view from a poolside cabana or one of the fire pits outside Chandler’s Restaurant; the Ocean Crest Spa offers facials and body treatments with seaweed or ocean algae. Rooms in this California Craftsmanstyle resort start at $294.

Bring home a sweet reminder of your getaway with a visit to the Carlsbad Strawberry Co. The 40 acres of strawberry fields off Cannon Road and the 5 Freeway have a “U-Pick” patch—buy a bucket and fill it to the brim. April is the heart of strawberry season, so the U-Pick field is open every day, weather permitting.

There’s also a farm stand on-site selling locally grown produce.

N O. 1 B U N S

Harumama is famous for its bao buns ($7.95 for two pieces) in the shape of cute, cartoon-like ani-

C O A S TA L C O M F O R T

Through May 8: The Flower Fields: Catch the blossoms in full bloom, with row upon row of vibrantly colored ranunculus. Take a tractor tour of the fields, listen to live music, or try a yoga class or sunset wine tasting. Advanced ticket sales only. theflowerfields.com

24 ORA NGE CO AST • April 2022

R E S O R T P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E S Y O F PA R K H YAT T AV I A R A R E S O R T; R E S TA U R A N T P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E S Y O F C A M P F I R E

PUBLISHER OF CARLSBAD MAGAZINE

PEOPLE

PLACES

C U L T U R E P H I L E

THINK MINK

UC Irvine professor Judy Tzu-Chun Wu chronicles the life of political trailblazer Patsy Mink, best known as the driving force behind Title IX. by Valerie Takahama

W

u, a professor of Asian American Studies, collaborated with Gwendolyn Mink, a political science scholar and Patsy’s daughter, on “Fierce and Fearless: Patsy Takemoto Mink, First Woman of Color in Congress.”

It’s the first biography of Mink, the main author of the landmark 1972 legislation that brought gender equity to education programs and sports. Enlivened and deepened by her daughter’s remembrances, the account celebrates Mink’s groundbreaking achievements and chronicles the challenges she faced as a politician.

How did your collaboration with Patsy Mink’s daughter come about? Ú I initially contacted her because the Library of Congress would ask her permission to allow people to access the (Patsy T. Mink Papers). I discovered that her mother wanted (Gwendolyn) to write (Patsy’s) biography. It’s hard to do that as a daughter. Also, Wendy Mink is a political scientist; I think she felt a little torn between doing something personal that would reflect their relationship and realizing that she had this responsibility as an academic to write an academic work. It just seemed to make sense to collaborate because I could write a more historical account of her mother’s life, and she could give insight into what was going on in their family.

When Patsy Mink got to Washington in 1965, her looks were commented on. She was called “a glamour girl.” How did she feel about that? Ú According to her daughter, they liked to go shopping.

(Laugh). It was something they enjoyed doing to relax. I think 26 O RA NGE CO A ST • April 2022

it’s also people’s projections onto her. There was a national convention, and (people were calling her) “Mrs. Hawaii,” treating her like she’s a beauty pageant contestant and asking for her measurements. Or asking her to perform hula.

Yes, it’s part of her identity, but would they ask a male senator or congressman to perform a dance from his home state?

There are so many outrageous examples of outright sexism; I think it’s so remarkable when people can work effectively in that environment.

How was she “ahead of the majority,” a phrase she used in her 1976 Senate run? Ú She was one of the early voices criticizing nuclear testing in the Pacific. Not just nuclear testing but the conventional and chemical testing that was happening. She was one of the early critics to think about the environmental impact. She was the first Japanese American female lawyer in Hawaii. There were all these ways she was getting shut out—educational opportunities, job opportunities.

I think because of that she used

the political arena to mandate equal opportunity. That’s what Title IX is about. People associate it with sports, but she was thinking scholarships, admission into programs, even housing and employment.

She represented Hawaii in Congress from 1965 to 1977, and then from 1990 to 2002.

What about in between? Ú She went back to Hawaii

and decided to go into the Honolulu City Council. I think most politicians are not going to go from Congress to the city council, but she was so adamant about addressing issues she thought were of concern to her community. I think she couldn’t help herself; she was responding to a need. It didn’t matter if it was Washington, D.C., or Honolulu—she wanted to get in there and do the work. photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

PEOPLE

PLACES APRIL 2 CHLOE ARNOLD’S SYNCOPATED L ADIES

Arnold, an Emmy-nominated choreographer for her work on “The Late Late Show with James Corden,” was tap dancing with a national touring group by the time she was 10. She has choreographed, produced, directed, and performed in multiple movies, TV shows, and stage productions since then. This show features her tap-dance troupe, the Syncopated Ladies, with whom she won the dance crew battle on “So You Think You Can Dance.” Musco Center for the Arts, One University Drive, Orange, 844626-8726, muscocenter.org

Theatre, 4242 Campus Drive, Irvine, 949-8544646, thebarclay.org APRIL 3 JAPANESE CHERRY BLOSSOM FESTIVAL

The annual event marking the advent of spring takes its inspiration from the blooming cherry blossom trees. Held in the Key Courtyard, it features family-friendly live entertainment, art projects, face painting, and more. Bowers Museum, 2002 N. Main St., Santa Ana, 714-5673600, bowers.org APRIL 4 JOURNEY: FREEDOM TOUR 2022

DON’T MISS IN APRIL

Imaginology, Cherry Blossom Festival, and more by Robin Jones

APRIL 1 THROUGH 3 L AGUNA BEACH MUSIC FESTIVAL

Artistic director Chris Thile—a four-time Grammy Award-winning mandolinist, singer, songwriter, and composer—and guest musicians will perform everything from Bartók and Bach to bluegrass, folk, jazz, spirituals, and original pieces. The 20th anniversary of this event is presented by The Philharmonic Society and Laguna Beach Live! Laguna Playhouse, 606 Laguna Canyon Road, Laguna Beach, 949-553-2422, philharmonicsociety.org OPENS APRIL 1 “CRY IT OUT”

This dark comedy by Molly Smith Metzler— creator of Netflix’s “Maid” and a writer for

28 ORA NGE C O AST • April 2022

“Shameless” and “Orange Is the New Black”— follows Jessie, a former corporate lawyer feeling isolated at home with a newborn. After she and a fellow mom form a friendship, they attempt to bring a third mom into the group.

The results shine a light on the power of female friendship and ways in which economic class influences parenthood. Chance Theater, 5522 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, 714-777-3033, chancetheater.com APRIL 2 TUMUA—TIME TO L AUGH TOUR

One of Hawaii’s most popular comedians, Tumua is known for the sketches and standup bits he posts on his popular social media accounts. This show, part of his first national tour, is appropriate for all ages. Irvine Barclay

Expect to hear some of the biggest rock hits of the ’80s: “Don’t Stop Believin’,” “Any Way You Want It,” “Faithfully,” and “Lights,” among others. The Rock & Roll Hall of Fame group, one of the bestselling rock bands ever, will be joined by special guest Toto in this stop on a 40-city tour. Honda Center, 2695 E. Katella Ave., Anaheim, 714-704-2500, hondacenter.com APRIL 7 BRANDEN AND JAMES: DISNEY & DIVOS

Branden James, a classically trained opera singer who reached the finals of “America’s Got Talent,” and James Clark, a cellist and pianist who has played with Idina Menzel and Olivia Newton-John, perform in Orange County for the first time as a duo. They’ll present their take on popular Disney songs, as well as favorites by Josh Groban, Il Divo, Andrea Bocelli, and Sara Brightman. Muckenthaler Cultural Center, 1201 W. Malvern Ave., Fullerton, 714738-6595, themuck.org APRIL 7, 9, AND 12 VERDI’S “OTELLO”

The Italian composer’s take on the Shakespearean tragedy features Carl Tanner as Otello, Kelebogile Besong as Desdemona, and Stephen Powell as Iago, accompanied by the Pacific Symphony and the Pacific Chorale. The opera will be sung in Italian with English su-

P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E S Y O F C H L O E A R N O L D ’ S S Y N C O PAT E D L A D I E S

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pertitles and will include a talk with KUSC host Alan Chapman. Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall, 615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-755-5788, pacificsymphony.org APRIL 8 AND 9 CHARLOTTE ALTER

In this Witte Lecture, Alter will discuss her book, “The Ones We’ve Been Waiting For: How a New Generation of Leaders Will Transform America,” and how the generational shift in the country will shape everything from climate change to social justice. A senior correspondent at Time who has covered multiple political campaigns, she has also written for The New York Times, The Washington Post, and The Wall Street Journal. Newport Beach Public Library, 1000 Avocado Ave., Newport Beach, 949-548-2411, nbplf.foundation APRIL 9 EDGAR MEYER AND THE SCOTTISH ENSEMBLE

Meyer is a classical bassist and composer and a five-time Grammy Award winner and recipient of the MacArthur Foundation Fellowship. He’s known for the innovative way he blends musical styles and will perform two of his own compositions, as well as pieces by Bach and Caroline Shaw, with the Scottish Ensemble. Soka Performing Arts Center, 1 University Drive, Aliso Viejo, 949-5532422, philharmonicsociety.org

APRIL 14 ENGLISH BAROQUE SOLOISTS AND SIR JOHN ELIOT GARDINER

The orchestra aims to replicate the approach, style, and sound of the era in which the music was composed. Led by Gardiner, a Grammywinning conductor, it plays compositions from the early baroque and classical eras. This performance will feature work from Mozart and Haydn. Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall, 615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 949553-2422, philharmonicsociety.org OPENS APRIL 20 “I LOVE YOU, YOU’RE PERFECT, NOW CHANGE”

The second-longest-running Off-Broadway musical, this show was staged more than 5,000 times from 1996 to 2008. A series of vignettes about love and relationships, it takes a comedic look at first dates, marriage, parenthood, and beyond. Laguna Playhouse, 606 Laguna Canyon Road, Laguna Beach, 949-497-2787, lagunaplayhouse.com APRIL 21 SHEKU AND ISATA KANNEH-MASON

The brother-and-sister duo have gained fame separately: Sheku as the cellist who performed at the wedding of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle; and Isata as the pianist whose 2019 debut album rose to No. 1 on the U.K. clas-

43 YEARS

RESTAURANTS 17th Street Grill 714.730.0003 Belacan Grill

MALAYSIAN BISTRO

714.505.9908 Distinctive Shopping & Dining

The Coffee Grinder 714.838.0960

Orange county’s most unique shopping experience

The Crab Cooker 714.573.1077

Friday, April 22, 10am to 6pm

Zov’s Bakery & Café 714.838.8855

La Galleria is hosting Joseph Ribkoff Trunk Show and Fashion Show

Friday, April 29, 3-6 pm Charleston Provence Boutique is hosting their monthly happy hour with wine, charcuterie & shopping. Enjoy 15% off.

Saturday, May 7, 5-8 pm Enderle Center’s annual Spring Fling Fun, Fashions & Live Music

Have a Blessed Easter

El Torito 714.838.6630

Zov’s Bistro 714.838.8855 SERVICES 17th Street Optometry

sical charts. They’ll take on compositions by Shostakovich, Britten, Karen Khachaturian, and Frank Bridge. Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall, 615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 949-553-2422, philharmonicsociety.org APRIL 24 COLIN CURRIE PL AYS DANNY ELFMAN PERCUSSION CONCERTO

Currie is a solo percussionist who performs regularly with the London Philharmonic, Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra, and New York Philharmonic and has premiered work from some of the world’s leading composers. He’ll take the spotlight in the debut of a concerto by Danny Elfman, the former Oingo Boingo frontman and composer of the scores for “Edward Scissorhands,” “Good Will Hunting,” and “The Nightmare Before Christmas,” among others.

Soka Performing Arts Center, 1 University Drive, Aliso Viejo, 949-480-4278, soka.edu APRIL 24 HASAN MINHAJ: “THE KING’S JESTER”

Minhaj rose to fame as a senior correspondent on “The Daily Show With Jon Stewart” and went on to host his own political comedy show on Netflix, “Patriot Act With Hasan Minhaj.”

This tour marks his first time on stage since the 2017 tour, which resulted in the Netflix special “Hasan Minhaj: Homecoming King.”

Segerstrom Hall, 600 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-556-2787, scfta.org

Fusion Hair 714.838.6000 Hair Industry The Salon 714.731.2530 Rebecca Pelletier Interiors 714.508.8581 Studio J PILATES

714.721.1163 Tustin Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Center 714.544.5341 Winston’s Estate Gallery 714.508.0100 FASHION A Perfect Fit FINE LINGERIE

Fancy Nails 714.730.4722

714.665.5994 Frank’s Menswear 714.730.5945 La Galleria

Fitness Fixe 714.838.5751

714.544.6340

OPTOMETRY

714.838.9664

ELEGANT WOMEN’S APPAREL

Tina Marie’s

BRIGHTON COLLECTION

714.505.1676

Touch of Class Refinery 714.734.7749 SPECIALTY AA Jewel Box 714.669.9966 Charleston Provence BOUTIQUE

714.508.8581 Chemers Gallery 714.731.5432 Deckers Fine Gifts 714.832.7074 Discoveries

CONTEMPORARY CRAFTS

714.544.6206 H. Foster & Jackson 714.544.4635

Justin Porterfield, Ltd. 714.544.5223

enderlecenter.com | 714.731.2911

SEVENTEENTH STREET & YORBA ST., TUSTIN — 55 FRWY. NORTH OR SOUTH, EXIT SEVENTEENTH ST. EAST 30 ORA NGE CO AST • April 2022

P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E S Y O F O R A N G E C O U N T Y FA I R

PEOPLE

PEOPLE

PLACES

APRIL 9 AND 10 IMAGINOLOGY

Held virtually last year, this annual festival celebrating invention and experimentation is back in person this spring.

Hands-on activities for kids of all ages put the spotlight on science, technology, engineering, art, and math, and individual and group project competitions on display provide inspiration. OC Fair & Event Center, 88 Fair Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-708-1500, ocfair.com APRIL 28

P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E S Y O F O R A N G E C O U N T Y FA I R

CHARLES YU

Yu’s novel “Interior Chinatown” won the 2020 National Book Award for fiction. He has also been nominated for two Writers Guild of America awards for his work on HBO’s “Westworld.” In this lecture, he’ll discuss immigration, assimilation, and representation, as well as the role of family and the stereotypes that continue in film and on TV. Newport Beach Public Library, 1000 Avocado Ave., Newport Beach, 949-548-2411, nbplf.foundation APRIL 28 THROUGH 30 YANG PL AYS RACHMANINOFF

Joyce Yang won the silver medal in the 2005 Van Cliburn International Piano Competition

when she was 19 years old. Since then, she has become a sought-after soloist and has collaborated with the Chicago Symphony, Los Angeles Philharmonic, and San Francisco Symphony.

She’ll perform Rachmaninoff ’s “Rhapsody on a Theme of Paganini” before the Pacific Symphony closes the show with Schumann’s Symphony No. 4. Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall, 615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-755-5788, pacificsymphony.org

APRIL 29 COMPLEXIONS CONTEMPORARY BALLET: “STARDUST”

The groundbreaking dance troupe, which was featured on “So You Think You Can Dance,” will perform two pieces in this show. “Bach 25,” set to music by Johann Sebastian and Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach, celebrates love and the alliances it forges. The second, “Stardust,”

PEOPLE

PLACES APRIL 16

WAIPUNA

Three musicians from Hawaiian musical families—David Kamakahi, Kale Hannahs, and Matthew Sproat—combined to create this band, which plays original songs and Hawaiian classics in a style that infuses the traditional sounds with a contemporary approach.

The group has won eight Nā Hōkū Hanohano Awards, Hawaii’s equivalent to the Grammy Awards. Irvine Barclay Theatre, 4242 Campus Drive, Irvine, 949-854-4646, thebarclay.org

features several of David Bowie’s hits, including “Space Oddity” and “Life on Mars,” along with costumes inspired by Bowie’s glam-rock style. Irvine Barclay Theatre, 4242 Campus Drive, Irvine, 949-854-4646, thebarclay.org APRIL 30 “FOR BETTER OR WORSE: TALES OF MARRIAGE”

Stage, film, and TV actors perform short stories about love and marriage in this show, an installment in the Selected Shorts series that was launched in 1985 at Symphony Space in New York City. Past performers in the series,

which is broadcast on 150 radio stations around the country and released as a podcast, have included Catherine O’Hara, Blythe Danner, and Tony Hale. Irvine Barclay Theatre, 4242 Campus Drive, Irvine, 949-854-4646, thebarclay.org

MO RE O NL INE!

To subscribe to our newsletter or see more listings, go to orangecoast.com/events.

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32 ORA NGE CO A ST • April 2022

800.397.8179

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MEGA N’S STORY

Saved from Living a Life in Constant Pain

Patty Bennet, Megan Hostetler and Ivar E. Roth, DPM/MPH

Paincur™—Amazing New Revolutionary Treatment Ivar E. Roth

DPM/MPH, a podiatrist/ foot & ankle surgeon, has been practicing in Newport Beach, CA for over 35 years. After many years of successful practice, Dr. Roth founded a new breakthrough technique in pain management: Paincur™ Paincur™ is a revolutionary, noninvasive treatment designed to provide long term/ permanent pain relief from conditions such as sciatica, back pain, shoulder/neck pain, arthritis, sports injuries and more.

This new and revolutionary treatment has successfully managed to provide lasting relief to those experiencing chronic pain, such as his patient, Megan Hostetler.

Megan Hostetler suffered from a rare and painful condition, known as Median Arcuate Ligament Syndrome. The pain derived from this condition is so severe that by the age of 21, Megan Hostetler had been hospitalized over 30 times in multiple hospitals, sometimes as long as four months.

“The pain was so excruciating, it was heartbreaking to see her in this condition,” recalls Megan’s mom, Patty Bennett. “In high school, Megan had so much going for her. She had a passion for boxing and was training to become a professional boxer. At that point, her life got

derailed with these constant bouts of debilitating stomach pain and extended hospital stays.”

Megan’s only relief came from IV administered pain medication. At that point, Megan was then referred to Dr. Roth.

“Megan was brought into the examining room supported by her fiancé and her mother, one on each side of her. Megan was writhing in pain. Rarely have I seen a patient in this much excruciating pain,” tells Dr. Roth. When Dr. Roth met Megan; he knew she was a perfect candidate for this treatment.

“After her first injection and as the medicine began working, Megan’s pain began to subside. Megan remarkably left the office walking normally and without assistance - without any narcotics or addictive medicine,” says Dr. Roth.

Megan could hardly believe how much better she felt. “For the first time in years, I began to feel hopeful,” tells Megan. “I can now do activities that were previously too painful to endure,” says Megan. “I can walk, sit comfortably, and even enjoy my favorite activities like cooking.

I once again dream of pursuing my passion as a professional boxer. Dr. Roth’s treatment is a miracle! To me, Dr. Roth is truly a miracle doctor who has given me my active life back as I once knew it.”

DR. IVAR ROTH

• Highly accredited and trained in foot and ankle surgery at Mt. Sinai Hospital of Chicago with world-renowned podiatrist Dr. Lowell Scott Weil Sr. • Founding Chairman of Podiatric Surgery at Hoag Hospital of Newport Beach.

• First podiatrist awarded full orthopedic privileges for foot and ankle surgery at Hoag Hospital, Newport Beach.

IF YOU ARE SUFFERING FROM PAIN CALL DR. ROTH’S OFFICE TO SCHEDULE A

Free Consultation & Complimentary Initial First Test Injection.

(949) 647-4904 or visit paincur.net

Dr. Ivar E. Roth

DPM/MPH Concierge Podiatry and Spa

495 Old Newport Boulevard, Suite 300 Newport Beach, CA 92663 949-647-4904 | www.paincur.net

Estate by : Gonterman Construction.

g ae tanoi nc . c om 714.536.6942 CUSTOM INSTALLATION & REFINISHING FAMILY OWNED SINCE 1955

STYLE

HOME

C U R AT E D CO L L E C T I O N S THE FIND A vase ($68), twisted candle ($10), candleholder ($38), and shell candle ($20) from San Clemente's Nômade Home GOOD TO KNOW Everything is eco-friendly at this online shop—from the products to the packaging. WHERE shopnomadehome.com

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

April 2022 • OR A NGE C OAST 35

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W I T H . . .

CAMEO APPEARANCE V I N TA G E Fullerton native collects timeless clothing for her Santa Ana boutique. by Chelsea Raineri

S

arah Sunderman started Cameo Appearance Vintage in 2010 with her mom. Now she hosts vintage markets, too, featuring up to 30 vendors. Every spring, summer, and fall, customers can shop the Golden Years Market and find one-of-a-kind pieces and vinyl records.

How did you start Cameo Appearance Vintage?  My mom and I have always been collectors of vintage. She raised me playing dress-up and thrifting at antique and vintage stores. We started it together because we had a big collection. In 2010, we officially started reselling and opened an Etsy shop. I’m a nostalgic person and have always loved vintage style and the individuality of it. Having something that no one else can have— special pieces. Most of my inspiration and creativity comes from the vintage pieces themselves. I’ll plan a whole photo shoot in my shop based around one piece I find.

How would you describe the boutique’s style?  I really only fill my shop with stuff that I would wear. That doesn’t mean everyday wear but statement pieces. Things you could get inspired by and style a million ways. I love my vintage T-shirts and denim, but I love hunting for something so unique and fun that it gets my brain turning to figure out how to style it.

I think anyone who knows my shop knows I love suits and sets and full looks. I try to look for quality fabrics and pieces that can travel through time—pieces you can wear no matter what’s trending.

What are the benefits of shopping in store?  When you shop online, you get to see how I style things or how I envision something. When you shop with me in person, we get to gab

36 ORA NGE CO A ST • April 2022

photographs by E M I LY J . D AV I S

FOR THE FINEST FIT IN BRAS

Voted BEST LINGERIE by Also seen on The Doctor Show • Specializing in Bra Fittings • Nursing Bras Available • Elegant Sleepwear • Bridal Foundation & Bridal Registry • Sizes from AA to K • Sports Bras

Gift Cards Available

Enderle Center

A retro piece from Cameo Appearance Vintage

about how you can style a piece and all the ways to do so. Any time someone makes an appointment with me, it’s so fun and it just feels like we’re playing dress-up.

How did you get the idea for Golden Years Market?  I got the idea when I moved into my studio in Santa Ana in 2015. I was super inspired by the building I’m in and the promenade; I was like, I can do an event here. I always wanted to try to do one on my own because I had seen how people would run (events) and would get ideas for how I could do something for me and my friends who also sell vintage. I wanted it to be something fun for the community. I feel like Orange County people always have to travel a little bit farther for vintage, so I wanted to bring Southern California shops together. People have said Golden Years is a very shoppable event; you don’t feel like there’s not enough to look at, but you don’t feel overwhelmed and you can see everything you want to see.

207 N. Broadway Santa Ana cameoappearancevintage.com

WE’VE MOVED

17300 E. 17th St., Ste. A, Tustin

714-665-5994

aperfectfitonline.com WED.-SAT. 11AM-6PM CALL FOR APPOINTMENT SUN., MON., TUES. CLOSED

Spring Into Wine!

Hi-Time Wine Cellars

250 Ogle Street • Costa Mesa, CA 92627 949.650.8463 • hitimewine.net

April 2022 • OR A NGE C OAST 37

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M A R K E T

EARTH DAY $19.9 million Corona del Mar

WISDOM

Senait Forthal is the executive director and founder of OC Goes Solar, a nonprofit that helps communities transition to solar energy.

FROM

a solar panel expert

THE GOAL …

We believe the sun is free, so everyone should have access to it.

We work to increase that access to make it affordable and equitable for all homeowners, especially in underserved communities. We have a vision to see solar on all homes and businesses in O.C. so we can create a clean world for our communities and our children.

We started in 2017 and have had more than 350 homes go solar.

38 ORA NGE C O AST • April 2022

WHY IT’S IMPORTANT ...

If pollution and climate change have no boundaries, we have to include everyone in this transition to clean energy. The average solar system will roughly produce 150,000 kilowatt hours of emission-free electricity in its lifetime. That’s the equivalent of 103 metric tons of carbon dioxide being reduced from the atmosphere.

FINANCIAL BENEFITS …

Your payback could be as low as five to seven years. That means for the next 20 to 30 years, you could have free energy coming into your home. The cost of solar has dropped 80 percent in the past 10 years, and our contractors promise to give us a 20 percent discount from the market price.

On top of that, you have an incredible tax break from the federal government.

P R O P E R T Y P H O T O G R A P H S B Y B R A N D O N B E E C H L E R ; H E A D S H O T B Y D I N A FA L M A G N E

11,011 square feet  5 bedrooms  9 bathrooms The home was constructed of steel and concrete.  Of note: The LEED Platinum home features a 26.5 kilowatt solar array, which provides most of the home’s energy. 1301 Dolphin Terrace Alexandra Rose, 949-630-5777; Alexandra Jarvis, 949-878-0929; Jason Oppenheim; 310-990-6656

STYLE

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L O V E

A P L A C E W I T H TA S T E San Juan Capistrano interior designer shares the process behind creating her unique kitchen. by Chelsea Raineri

H

aving grown up with a mom who worked in design, Mikaela Greiner’s passion for creating spaces started at a young age. Her goal for her kitchen was to make it innovative and comfortable while staying true to her style rather than a reflection

of trends. Almost every piece in her kitchen, except for the pendant, was thrifted. “The ultimate space comes together really well (when you thrift),” Greiner says. “Everything that you’ve found was something that popped out at you, so collectively it really represents your eye.”

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CHAIRS “I love the metal framing and the color of the green; it’s like a sage, avocado, muddled green,” Greiner says.

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PENDANT “(The designer went) to a fashion show and thought this emulated a dress that flowed down the runway.”

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40 O RA NGE CO AST • April 2022

BOWL “I was on a surf trip in Mexico and got this from a vendor.”

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COUNTER AND BACKSPL A SH “I love all the veins— there’s green and rust. Every accent color I’d want to introduce is in there.”

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CABINETS “Keeping it flush feels more modern and balances the old-world feel of the stone and the slab.”

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FLOORS “Every kitchen that I’ve been drawn to, I’ve found the common denominator was a unique floor.”

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photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

A LIFE WELL LIVED. A LIFE WELL EARNED. Since 1998, Belmont Village has safely delivered an unparalleled senior living experience for thousands of families. Collaborations with experts from the nation’s top healthcare institutions and universities, including UCLA and USC, have established our national leadership in demonstrably effective cognitive health and wellness programs. Combining the highest levels of hospitality and care, our communities make life worth living.

Learn more at BelmontVillage.com/LosAngeles

Medication management with licensed nurse on-site 24/7 | Circle of Friends® award-winning memory care Dedicated Alzheimer’s care | Physical therapy, rehabilitation and fitness | Nationally-recognized, highly trained staff

©2022 Belmont Village, L.P. | RCFE 306005563, 197608468, 197608466, 197608467, 198601646, 565802433, 197608291, 197609518

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F I N D S

EARN YOUR STRIPES Wear this pattern from head to toe for spring.

by Chelsea Raineri

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Local Find!

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LoveShackFancy x Lele Sadoughi knotted headband, $85, LoveShackFancy, Newport Beach 949-432-5136

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Silk dress, $1,198; pointed wrap mule, $378; Tory Burch, South Coast Plaza, 714-689-0450

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42 ORA NGE C O AST • April 2022

Fendi Pequin stripe bucket hat, $590, Nordstrom, 714-549-8300

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Jonathan Simkhai Kazuki striped space dye midi dress, $645, Intermix, South Coast Plaza, 714-754-7895

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Women’s paintbrush socks, $12, Richer Poorer, San Juan Capistrano, richer-poorer.com

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Adriana Castro Marcial woven caña flecha tote bag, $410, Neiman Marcus, Fashion Island, 949-759-1900

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FOR THE LONG RIDE...

I WORKED MOWING LAWNS WHEN I WAS 17 AND ALWAYS WENT TO THE DUMP TO GET RID OF THE LAWN WASTE. I COULDN’T BELIEVE HOW MANY BEAUTIFUL THINGS I FOUND I KNEW I COULD FIX. AFTER MANY TRIPS TO THE DUMP, I DECIDED TO MAKE SOMETHING THAT WOULDN’T BREAK AND SAVE THE WORLD. BEING A SURFER IN THE 60’S, I CAME ACROSS MANY BROKEN SANDALS ACROSS THE BEACH. IT FINALLY CAME TO ME THAT I COULD MAKE A BETTER SANDAL THAT FELT GOOD, LASTED LONG, AND WOULDN’T END UP AT THE DUMP IN A LANDFILL. THROUGH TRIAL AND ERROR, I DEVELOPED A “LAYERED CONSTRUCTION” BY COMBINING IMPROVED DENSITIES OF SPONGE RUBBER, WHICH ALLOWED ME TO REPAIR THE SANDALS IF THE STRAPS EVER PULLED OUT. I USED BETTER LEATHER SOURCES AND FORMULATED MY GLUE TO HOLD THE STRAPS AND LAYERS TOGETHER. THE STRAPS WERE SEWN USING BONDED NYLON THREAD AND CAME TOGETHER WITH A 2000 LB. PARACHUTE BOX-X STITCH TOE CONSTRUCTION. FORTY-SEVEN YEARS LATER, MY TEAM ENDEAVORS TO KEEP THE QUALITY HIGH, REPAIR SANDALS IF NEEDED, AND DONATE OLD SANDALS WITH LIFE STILL LEFT IN THEM TO FEET IN NEED. I HOPE YOU ENJOY MY SANDALS. - JAY “SPARKY” LONGLEY, FOUNDER & CEO 4% OF RAINBOW® SANDALS TOTAL REVENUE IN 2021 WENT DIRECTLY TO NON-PROFIT CHARITABLE ORGANIZATIONS. BELOW ARE SOME OF THE LATEST ONE’S WE HAVE HELPED: CHALLENGED ATHLETES FOUNDATION (CAF) PROVIDE OPPORTUNITIES AND SUPPORT TO PEOPLE WITH PHYSICAL CHALLENGES, SO THEY CAN PURSUE ACTIVE LIFESTYLES THROUGH PHYSICAL FITNESS AND COMPETITIVE ATHLETICS. THE CHALLENGED ATHLETES FOUNDATION BELIEVES THAT INVOLVEMENT IN SPORTS AT ANY LEVEL INCREASES SELF-ESTEEM, ENCOURAGES INDEPENDENCE AND ENHANCES QUALITY OF LIFE. challengedathletes.org LIGHTHOUSE FOR THE BLIND FOUNDED IN 1902, LIGHTHOUSE FOR THE BLIND AND VISUALLY IMPAIRED PROMOTES THE INDEPENDENCE, EQUALITY AND SELF-RELIANCE OF PEOPLE WHO ARE BLIND OR HAVE LOW VISION. lighthouse-sf.org LONG LIVE THE KINGS RESTORES WILD SALMON & STEELHEAD AND SUPPORTS SUSTAINABLE FISHING IN THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST. lltk.org AMERICAN RED CROSS PREVENTS AND ALLEVIATES HUMAN SUFFERING IN THE FACE OF EMERGENCIES BY MOBILIZING THE POWER OF VOLUNTEERS AND THE GENEROSITY OF DONORS. redcross.org

Creating Extraordinary Spaces Since 1984

cantoni.com |

IRVINE 8650 Research Dr | 949.585.9191 LOS ANGELES 420 N. La Brea Ave | 323.634.0909 @cantonidesign | info-email@cantoni.com

S P O N S O R E D CONT E NT

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Industry Expert Q&A: PG. 46 Trends: PGS. 48-56

Photo courtesy of Cantoni | Cantoni.com | 949-585-9191 April 2022 • Or a nge Coast 45

SPON SORED C ON TEN T

INDUSTRY EXPERT Q&A

INSIDE THE MIND OF DESIGN with Mike Cassidy

Q What's new and noteworthy at California Closets?

A There is always something new to look forward to!

We have a lot of exciting plans for 2022 that we can’t wait to share. Our company is expanding more than ever. We installed a record number of dream closets in 2021 and expect to break that record again this year.

Q How have design trends been influenced by people spending more time at home?

Mike Cassidy

General Manager of California Closets OC

As General Manager of Orange County’s California Closets, Mike has more than three decades of experience in home renovation and design. He loves creating custom closets and personalized organization to suit its clients’ needs in every area of the home. Serving Orange County and the South Bay, the team at California Closets Orange County will work with you to meet your desired functions, aesthetic and budget.

5921 Skylab Rd. Huntington Beach, CA 92647 714.899.4905 locations.californiaclosets.com/ california-closets-huntington-beach

46 Ora nge C oast • April 2022

A With people spending more time at home, we are finding versatility being a popular choice. Wall-beds with a built-in desk have become a necessity when considering a work-from-home option without needing an entire home office. This also allows for ample storage space, all in one room.

Q What types of projects are popular these days?

A People are really investing in spaces they normally wouldn’t. That spare storage room is now their dream home office! Or an at-home classroom we can build craft rooms, cubbies and shared desks in.

Q Are there any color schemes that are influential now?

A We are seeing a lot of neutrals at the moment.

Natural wood looks, warm or cool tones. We also love adding an accent color to add a bit of extra personalization to the space, and of course, gold hardware!

SPON SORED C ON TEN T

TRENDS

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Westminster Teak

Surfside to poolside - the Surf Collection from Westminster Teak Clean lines, welcoming curves, and the organic feel to the touch of its smooth rounded edges give the Surf Collection its immediate appeal.

Drawing from its Scandinavian aesthetics in scale, proportion, and craftsmanship, the all solid teak chairs are exceptionally comfortable and folds effortlessly. With graceful stance and statuesque silhouette, the Surf Collection will fit beautifully anywhere: on a superyacht, a sundrenched terrace, or extra seating when needed... wherever, whenever.

844.446.0001 westminsterteak.com

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Gaetano Hardwood Floors, Inc.

Contemporary Design with glass railing. These custom stairs are solid white oak treads and risers with a 1-1/2" square edge detail.

Hand Crafted and installed by: Gaetano Hardwood Floors, Inc. 714.536.6942 gaetanoinc.com

48 Ora nge C o ast • April 2022

WESTMINSTER TEAK L U X U R Y

T E A K

F U R N I T U R E

making outdoor dining memorable ... season after season, year after year.

Horizon Collection

LONG AFTER TRENDS ARE FORGOTTEN

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VERGOLA

The VERGOLA® opening and closing roof system gives you control over your environment. With smart rain sensor technology and double skin aerofoil louvers for better insulation, the VERGOLA® lets you relax or entertain outdoors, rain or shine.

855.949.8374 vergola.com

4

Builders Surplus Kitchen & Bath Cabinets

So Cal’s Largest Kitchen & Bath Cabinets Warehouse, Over 20,000 Cabinets Assembled & In Stock. 20 Kitchen Styles Assembled & In Stock, 65 Vanity Styles Assembled & In Stock.

We can provide assistance with laying out and designing your kitchen and bath, should you need our help.

888.299.1261 BuildersSurplus.Net

5

California Closets

A system the whole family can enjoy Focus on your work, studies, scheduling and more in your custom home office with a clear head, knowing you designed a space to perfectly accommodate lifestyle. Classic White cabinetry and drawers with gold hardware, open library shelving and glass cabinet doors.

855.236.1358 californiaclosets.com

50 Ora nge C oast • April 2022

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Cantoni

Creative Interiors Start at Cantoni Cantoni offers a comprehensive range of design services from space planning and furniture selection to interior finishes and custom designs, plus expert assistance from their seasoned designers to create thoughtprovoking and inspiring modern spaces.

949.585.9191 cantoni.com/stores/orange-county

7

Pacific Shore Stones

The Travertine Comeback!

Due to its creamy color, warm feel, and natural surface, travertine is making a major comeback. The sandy irregular color pattern plays well with bright colors making it easy to mix and match colors in any ambiance. it has been named The "New" Neutral.

949.536.5055 pacificshorestones.com

8

PIRCH

Famous around the world for the most innovative kitchen faucets, Waterstone is now introducing their allnew bath collection. The distinctive style of their bath collection is inspired by nautical hardware design with an industrial edge and features spectacular finishes. See the new Waterstone Argonaut Bath Collection and their kitchen faucet collections on our website and on display in any of our showrooms. pirch.com/brands/waterstone Costa Mesa | 949.429.0800 Coming soon to Mission Viejo!

Pirch.com

52 Ora nge C o ast • April 2022

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TRENDS

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Superior Tree Cares

Sheltering Shade Mature trees add greatly to the beauty of your property, giving it solid character and quiet charm. When it comes to the health and beauty of your trees, call on a company you can trust.

714.502.0226 superiortreecare.net

10

Bazaar del Mundo Shops

Spring is here and it’s time for colorful outdoor living! Vibrant dinner and glassware, rich hand-woven napkins, placemats, and textiles, playful Talavera pottery and more are available now at Bazaar del Mundo Shops.

Overflowing with treasures from around the globe including fun women’s fashions and accessories for Spring along with artisan jewelry, one-of-a-kind handcrafted folk art & collectibles, sunny home and garden accessories, and so much more.

Celebrating 50 years in business in San Diego, owneroperator Diane Powers has created and continues to curate this international shopping destination. beloved by residents across southern California, the Southwest, and beyond.

619.296.3161 BazaarDelMundo.com

11

SOCO and the OC Mix

DESIGN OFFERINGS: Bang & Olufsen | BoConcept | Brown Jordan | C.S. Wo & Sons | Calligaris OC | Design Within Reach | Famosa | Farrow & Ball | Hay Design | La-Z-Boy | Lightopia | Ligne Roset/Scavolini | Local Fare Sauces & Such | Modani | Natuzzi Italia | Nest Bedding | PIRCH | Rejuvenation | Robert Westley | Roche Bobois | Room & Board | Roomscapes | Stark Home | TFS Natural Home | The Shade Store | The Sliding Door Company | Timothy Oulton 3313 Hyland Ave., Costa Mesa, CA 92626 socoandtheocmix.com 54 Ora nge C o ast • April 2022

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9/3/03

Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Cove

The Wolf Dual Fuel Range combines professional heritage, stunning aesthetic, and innovative performance into one bold cooking package.

It's durable construction and intuitive features ensure every home chef can enjoy guesswork-free cooking and predictably delicious results for decades.

11:35 AM

Page 2

Showroom: 657.269.5874 subzerosocal.com/costamesa

TREE CARE FOR RESIDENTIAL AND COMMERCIAL PROPERTIES Professional Tree Trimming • Tree Removal Tree Pruning & Crown Reduction • Sod Removal Palms Skinned, Trimmed & Removed Ivy Topping & Removal • Power Stump Grinding Lot & Hill Clean-ups for Fire Regulation Liability Insurance • Workers Comp. Insurance WE ACCEPT VISA, M/C & AMERICAN EXPRESS

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714-502-0226 56 Ora nge C oast • April 2022

Follow Us! Tips on the best O.C. dining, shopping, events and more.

@orangecoastmag

More info: orangecoast.com

FOOD

DRINK

B E D OYA THE DRINK Viejo Tonel Pisco Mosto Verde, Ex Gratia genepi, and three bitters THE DETAILS Pisco—a semi-fermented take on Peru’s quebranta grape— and an Alpine-inspired herb liqueur deliver a high-elevation experience that's our favorite this year. THE PRICE $14 THE PL ACE El Mercado Modern Cuisine TURN TO PAGE 78 for our Best New Restaurants winners.

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

April 2022 • OR A NGE C OAST 59

FOOD

DRINK

3

5

2

1

4

T H E

B R E A K D O W N

DUCK CONFIT CHILAQUILES

Chef Craig Brady of Haven Craft Kitchen + Bar acknowledges that he has a soft spot for chilaquiles in general, and his take on this brunch dish has become a favorite. by Gretchen Kurz It takes 48 hours to herb cure and confit Maple Leaf Farms duck legs before cooking and then shredding the savory meat.

1

Escabeche and chipotle cream supply bright tanginess to offset the dish’s inherent richness.

2

Freshly cut and fried corn tortillas from La Banderita are chosen for the lime-tinged, mineral edge retained after nixtamalization.

3

Just-laid eggs with orangey yolks come from the happy hens at GoneStraw Farms in Riverside.

4

Prep chef Mario Ceballos individually toasts and grinds peanuts, almonds, and sesame seeds for the signature mole with 20 ingredients.

5

$19, 190 S. Glassell St., Orange, 714-221-0680 See our picks for BEST NEW RESTAURANTS on Page 78.

60 ORA NGE CO COA AST ST • April 2022

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

Paella. Tapas. Gypsy Music.

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DRINK 5

Q U E S T I O N S

W I T H …

JOHN PARK

The executive chef and co-owner of Toast Kitchen + Bakery and new Tableau Kitchen + Bar is on a mission to give back to the community. Both restaurants donate 10 percent of their profits to Orange County charities.

by Cathy Thomas WHAT’S YOUR DREAM PROJECT? To open a Korean restaurant with my mom.

FAVORITE COOKBOOK? Claudia Fleming’s “The Last Course.” It is sensible and beautiful at the same time.

DO YOU HAVE A SECRET TALENT? With four children—three sons and one “princess”—keeping my wife happy while I work 100 hours a week is a talent.

FAVORITE O.C. RESTAURANT? Nothing too fancy when eating with the kids: Burnt Crumbs (Huntington Beach) for its appealing twists on simple, classic dishes.

BEST ADVICE? Develop a strong work ethic; show up every day. And show up early.

MO RE O NL INE

Check out more from Cathy Thomas as she invites local chefs into her kitchen and then shares the recipes with you.

Go to orangecoast.com/cathy.

I N S T A - H I T

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF JD FL ANNEL DONUTS & COFFEE

FOOD

Smoken Apple Fritters JD Flannel Donuts & Coffee

370 likes and counting

@jdflanneldonuts

8.6K followers

62 ORA NGE C O AST • April 2022

An elevated classic, this apple fritter starts with vegan yeast dough and adds smoked apples seasoned with cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom. It’s all held together with a sugar glaze made with vegan butter and oat milk. $5.75. 31878 Del Obispo St., San Juan Capistrano

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

FOOD

DRINK F O O D

T R E N D S

SPICE IS THE VARIET Y

SIAM CENTRAL THAI KITCHEN presents regional

Thai cuisine “with the side effect of happiness and the downside of forgetting time.” One fiercely fiery and flavorful bite of either of two traditional Southern Thai dishes suggested by owner Pavade Plarykal—both with “Siam” in the name—might make you forget everything.

Sa-tor Siam includes ground chicken and pork, squid, shrimp, shrimp paste, pickled garlic, “stinky beans,” and Thai chiles. Kua-kring Siam combines ground pork and a special dry curry.

Dishes with spicy in the name—e.g., Spicy Seafood Combination—warrant caution, too. 25571 JERONIMO ROAD, MISSION VIEJO, 949-6007730, SIAMCENTRALTHAI.COM

64 ORA NGE CO AST • April 2022

YUP DDUK promises Korea’s

spiciest street food at 500 locations worldwide. Its name translates to “bizarrely spicy rice cakes.” Heat from “extra mild” to “challenge” derives from Ttangcho peppers; “mild” equates to the spiciest ramen at Asian markets. The signature dish comes with rice cake, fish cake, tiny sausages, cabbage, and green onion topped with mozzarella cheese; add-ons include deep-fried Spam.

Find noodle blood sausage among “must-add sides to survive”; a more original menu offers boneless chicken feet; “calm yourself” with banana milk. 4515 CAMPUS DRIVE, IRVINE, 949-617-5620, YUPDDUKIRVINE.COM

HOT N CHILI , in a little plaza in Old Town San Clemente, offers northern India’s Punjabi cuisine—dishes such as goat karahi, lamb vindaloo, butter chicken, and tandoori prawns. Say it like you mean it if you want extra hot; if you underestimate your preference, you can order a side of Hot N Chili Famous Hot Sauce. The mixed Indian pickles are intense. Hot tip: You can bring in beer, wine, or cocktails from the Peruvian restaurant next door. 111 W. AVENIDA PALIZADA, SAN CLEMENTE, 949-299-2781, HOTNCHILI.COM

Chef Dave Kopushyan and three friends started DAVE’S HOT CHICKEN with a pop-up in an East Hollywood parking lot. Now there are nearly 50 locations in the U.S. and Canada, including this mural-splashed spot in Costa Mesa, one of two that have opened this year in Orange County. Tenders, with a bread slice and pickles, and sliders, with kale slaw and pickles, come in seven levels of heat from no spice and “lite mild” to the Reaper.

Keep a Dave’s real-ice-cream milkshake handy if you skew hot. 3030 HARBOR BLVD., COSTA MESA, 714-805-8933, DAVESHOTCHICKEN.COM

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF YUP DDUK

New restaurants bring the heat. by Benjamin Epstein

New Season

Sundays 8pm

Premieres

April 4

S P O N S O R E D CONT E NT

Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian Resort Las Vegas

GETAWAY OC:

THE PLACE TO BE Las Vegas is the perfect destination to experience world-class dining, luxury shopping, high-stakes gaming, and breathtaking performances that will satisfy all your desires.

April 2022 • Or a nge Coast 67

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SUMMERTIME OASIS AT

THE COSMOPOLITAN OF LAS VEGAS This summer, lounge poolside with three unique pool experiences.

Upbeat music, poolside cocktails and uninhibited views of Las Vegas Boulevard make Boulevard Pool a standout destination.

Located right above The Strip, Boulevard Pool has the best views of the city.

The Chelsea Pool is inspired by the surrounding desert landscape. Nestled between the two Cosmopolitan towers, it offers a more relaxed, canyon-like feel.

Book a daybed for the next level in luxe.

Extending out over the edge of the pool, you can take a break from the heat, anytime, with a single step. Or if you prefer a more private experience, cabanas include a dedicated server, a stocked fridge and other creature comforts.

Swim, eat and vibe at Marquee Dayclub. Anchored in music, the Dayclub features live DJ performances and bottle service from morning to night. Sip on signature cocktails and an exclusive menu of poolside bites.

And throughout the summer, Boulevard Pool transforms with something for everyone. On Mondays, you can even see classic and blockbuster films on the oversized marquee screen. Every Thursday, Sunset Cocktail Hour is back.

See the lights of Las Vegas come to life with live music, curated margaritas and delicious small bites. On Fridays, rise with the sun and relax into the weekend with a poolside, yin-style yoga class or up your energy with a bodyweight HIIT class, both while witnessing the city come alive.

Make Waves, Steal Glances with 25% off your two-night or more stay.

Book now at cosmopolitanlasvegas.com 68 Ora nge C o ast • April 2022

TALK YOUR WAY into SOMETHING

JUST THE RIGHT AMOUNT of WRONG

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GRAND CANAL SHOPPES AT THE VENETIAN RESORT LAS VEGAS

Shop, dine, and experience Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian Resort, an extraordinary Venetianinspired shopping, dining, and entertainment destination on the famous Las Vegas Strip. With more than a dozen world-class and awardwinning restaurants, over 160 signature stores, premier luxury boutiques, and electrifying attractions, there is something for everyone.

Delight the senses with an array of James Beard-awarded dining venues, featuring star-studded celebrity chef restaurants including Wolfgang Puck's CUT, Emeril Lagasse's Delmonico Steakhouse, Buddy Valastro's Buddy V's and Carlo's Bakery, and Lorena Garcia's CHICA, as well as SUSHISAMBA, Smith & Wollensky and The X Pot. Take in the romantic sights of St. Mark’s Square while indulging in Sloan’s Homemade Ice Cream, or stroll along the charming Grand Canal to explore signature boutiques including Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Jimmy Choo, Salvatore Ferragamo, Tory Burch, Michel Kors, and Royce’ Chocolates.

The Shoppes offers unbeatable experiences for unforgettable memories. Immerse yourself in the virtual world of Sandbox VR, or go on an adventure with Spiegelworld’s riotous romp through the Wild, Wild West as it never was at Atomic Saloon Show.

With so much to do in one location, it’s the perfect spot for celebrations, family fun, and weekend getaways — no passport needed.

3377 Las Vegas Boulevard South grandcanalshoppes.com 70 Ora nge C o ast • April 2022

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VIRGIN HOTELS LAS VEGAS Virgin Hotels Las Vegas, part of Curio Collection by Hilton, intermixes a passion for food and beverage with music and culture.

The resort boasts an award-winning restaurant collection, including the famed Night + Market from Chef Kris Yenbamroong, Nick Mathers’ coastal Italian inspired Kassi Beach House, the legendary Nobu, Chef Todd English’s Olives and more. The resort’s signature speakeasy, The Shag Room is intimate and sexy, with nightly entertainment and curated cocktails. Guests will enjoy the well-appointed chambers and suites across three luxe towers, with patented in-room technology, ergonomic beds, and sweeping views of the Las Vegas Strip.

72 Ora nge C o a st • April 2022

Virgin Hotels Las Vegas is home to three unique indoor and outdoor entertainment venues for events of all sizes. Soak up the sun at the sand-bottom pool for all resort guests. Guests 21 and over will enjoy the sights and sounds of the Mediterranean at the luxe Élia Beach Club. Or relax and reset at The Spa, enjoying the one-of-a-kind Roman-style bath and a wide range of services, from massages to facials and beyond. Try your luck inside the Mohegan Sun Casino, a state-of-the-art casino inside Virgin Hotels Las Vegas. The only question is, where will you go first?

Virgin Hotels Las Vegas 4455 South Paradise Road, Las Vegas (800) 693-7625 virginhotelslv.com

Us. Unstoppable.

A place for those who fancy something a bit off script is here. So, plant your fun flag, and experience Virgin Hotels Las Vegas.

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JOIN US FOR AN EVENING (OR TWO) IN CELEBRATION OF THE 2022 BEST NEW RESTAURANTS IN ORANGE COUNTY. GRAB A GLASS OF WINE, TOAST THE CHEFS, TASTE SIGNATURE DISHES, AND SO MUCH MORE.

Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Cove Showroom

Wednesday, May 25 Thursday, May 26

655 Anton Boulevard, Costa Mesa, CA 92626

5:30 – 8 p.m.

For details & tickets visit: orangecoast.com/bestrestaurants

MY O.C.

Icons I Can’t Quit In honor of Earth Day, let’s take time to look up to the trees. by Lynette Brasfield

I

love eucalyptus trees, and not just on Earth Day every April. It’s a long-term commitment. I fell for them a while back during a tree tour around Laguna Beach one soggy Saturday morning. Talk about iconic: Eucalyptus in our town are emblematic of our history and our art colony heritage. Planted by homesteaders eager to take advantage of the Timber Culture Act of 1871—and painted numerous times by early plein-air art-

ists such as William Wendt—dozens now shade our downtown streets, some dating back all the way to our founding.

It’s controversial to be fond of eucalyptus in Laguna—for good reason, given our susceptibility to wildfires. When the oil in their leaves heats up, flammable gas is released, which can turn into a fireball. Sparks blown by the winds—especially Santa Anas—have the potential to ignite and spread flames to structures far and wide. There are many residents who’d like them cut down.

And yet, and yet … overhead power lines buzzing with electricity present similar dangers. But we’ve voted not to underground them. Recent blazes, such as the Emerald Fire, prove that we’re surrounded by plenty of flammable vegetation, much of it native to the area.

T H AT W E T W E E K E N D D AY O N the tour, I was charmed by the eucalyptus’ smooth baby-cheek branches blushing pink in patches; their minty breath; and trunks that feel like tensed muscle. They’re sensual creatures, once you get to know them. Though it would take a while to meet them all: There are more than 800 varieties.

I like that their elbows, where branch meets trunk, grow wrinkled with time. Yet they seem to fight aging, regularly sloughing off their skin, as though to save their complexions from the unsightly fissures. The reason for the sloughing isn’t vanity, of course, it’s to clean themselves of irritants such as bugs. What you might call germabrasion. illustration by P E T E R YA N

April 2022 • OR A NGE C OAST 75

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I’ve been thinking lately about our tendency to anthropomorphize trees, particularly those that are iconic to a region. Think about it: How often are “stately” or “regal” applied to palms in Southern California? Though to me, they look more like gawky adolescents with a shock of untidy hair.

The way to tell a King palm from a Queen palm? A local arborist explained it thusly: “The Queen has a shapely trunk; the King has a more erect look, and its nuts hang further below its crown.”

So it’s not just me who likes to humanize our flora.

There’s a tree in the Amazonian rainforest that I particularly loved meeting: a walking palm, or Socratea exorhizza (it’s even named after an ancient philosopher!). As with most of its kind, the tree loves sunlight, but this guy literally makes the right moves to meet its goal.

It grows new aboveground roots in the direction it wants to travel, allowing the old roots on the opposite side to rot and die, moving an estimated 7 feet each year.

Then there’s the Cook pine, a living Tower of Pisa, several examples of which grow in Laguna Beach. Both tower and tree bow toward the south— although the tower’s tilt is the result of human error, while the Cook pine is just doing what Cook pines do: They grow up yearning, it seems, for their home, Australia, and crick their woody necks toward the Southern Hemisphere accordingly.

How about trees with knees, the cypress, genuflecting to the swamps in which they grow, Spanish moss drooping like beards from their branches?

The African baobab tree is a particular favorite of mine, though admittedly its night-blooming flowers smell like stinky socks. That aside, it has a lovely prayer-like look, with a thick waist and root-like branches that seem to be imploring the sky to form clouds and rain. Local legend has it that God dropped the baobab upside down from the heavens by mistake.

MY O.C. So many trees are icons of countries and places. The acacia tree—sometimes nibbled on by giraffes—immediately puts one in mind of Africa. See a byzantine banyan tree, think Hawaii.

A shot of a picnic beneath a spreading oak: We’re in England.

ORANGE COUNTY’S VERY name is a reflection of our agricultural past. I’d love to see more of these plump green beauties and their citrus baubles.

There’s the pepper tree outside Laguna Beach City Hall, now a short, shaggy specimen, which is also controversial. A few years back, arborists recommended it be felled because it was old and likely to keel over and hurt someone. But given its long history as a Laguna Beach icon (though it’s actually from Peru), a movement began to save the tree.

Eventually, a compromise was reached to cut it down but not uproot it. The conflict was then over whether it should be shortened to 9 feet or 12.

Twelve feet won, and it’s now thriving.

Sometimes a guy just needs a trim.

On the tour, mutilated trees that were carelessly pruned saddened me, particularly a devastated melaleuca raising its amputated arms to the sky.

But the saddest of all were trees that had been given cement shoes, perhaps in an effort to avoid lawsuits from people who might trip over exposed roots. I swear I heard a whimper from a young sapling who’d been mafia’d: It was saying “help me!”—or maybe it was only the wind sighing through its few green leaves.

OK, enough of the cute, let’s get real— plants can’t talk. We must talk for them, for the sake of Orange County, for the sake of our health. Trees breathe out the oxygen we breathe in. They help mitigate climate change. They remind us of our rich history and culture. And to quote “The Lorax” by Dr. Seuss, “Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot, nothing is going to get better.

It’s not.”

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April 2022 • OR A NGE COAST 77

Best new

restaurants This year’s robust crop of new places is our most impressive yet, revealing a dining landscape of inspiring resilience. We’re booking tables in a frenzy of gratitude. Join us!

by GRETCHEN KURZ p h o t o g r a p h s b y E M I LY J . D A V I S

78 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2022

SEE 608 DAHLIA PAGE 85

best new restaurants

Butcher’s House Brasserie B

utcher’s House wasn’t even a gleam in Jeoff rey Offer’s eye when COVID-19 arrived. He was too busy running the kitchens of Moulin to contemplate much else until restaurants closed in March 2020. Suddenly idle, this butcher’s son could crystallize a plan to go solo, and his dream brasserie was born in the final rainy days of December 2021.

Previously inhabited by Pueblo, the kitchen’s new heart is a Santa Mariastyle grill that seasons half the menu’s dishes with notes of almond and citrus wood smoke. Dry-aged steaks and chops are center stage, supported by burgers, salads, and sides. Dazzling house specialties are versatile small plates, including a potent Toulouse sausage—house-made with large-grind pork in a snappy casing. Rustic pork pâté and spicy lamb Merguez sausage are also from scratch. Duck confit is pitch perfect. Offer is a native son of Toulouse, and these dishes reveal much pride and affection for his French homeland.

Bone-in ribeye aged 30 days is a deluxe splurge for two, but smaller cuts appeal on their own merits. Dubbed “le faux filet,” the 12-ounce New York is robust next to the demure 8-ounce filet mignon, and skirt steak is a flavor showoff. Six signature sauces add some adventure or not—Béarnaise is most popular, tartare is most interesting. Beef isn’t mandatory thanks to a hefty Kurobuta pork chop, fisted half-chicken, and a handsome eight-bone lamb rack. Large, simply dressed salads feature lardons, sliced steak, and even prosciutto on gem lettuce kissed by the grill. Melted Comté cheese toasts cap the fire-roasted tomato soup. Dry-aged lunch burgers are massive, stacked with thick bacon or cheese. Chocolate mousse with caramel pearls is better than it has to be. Croque madame is the queen of the weekend brunch menu, and there’s a mighty fine breakfast burger—this one with Emmental cheese, bacon, and a sunny side egg.

The shotgun floor plan’s 30-seat banquette with brass-edged tables keeps things snug; a chill courtyard patio seats 35. Freshly expanded, the bar has some prime seats with a kitchen view and polished service plus a genial bartender. Expect future refinements at this rookie shop—there’s buzz about adding new dishes and upgrading to a full liquor license.

Butcher’s House is an unexpected gift of the pandemic. How fitting that it’s our Restaurant of the Year.

3321 Hyland Ave., Costa Mesa, 714-714-0662 80 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2022

restaurant of the

year

April 2022 • O R A N G E C O A S T 81

best new restaurants

Bosscat Kitchen & Libations I

nstant crowds signaled that diners in Old Towne Orange were all-in for this ingenious retool of an iconic corner liquor shop. Already popular in the airport zone, Bosscat has a scalable formula— appealing eats, clever bar program, and a welcoming setting just the right shade of cool. Executive chef Peter Petro cooks Southern comfort fare with a twist. Expect shareables ideal for the busy happy hour—piping hot pulled pork-fi lled hush puppies, seared soy-glazed ahi lettuce wraps, or cheesy chicken dip with homemade potato chips. Mason jars of house-pickled vegetables are a crisp counterpoint to the rich noshes. There’s a fi ne

82 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2022

7-ounce custom-grind burger with Black Forest bacon that’s perfect with craggy fries dipped in chow-chow ketchup. Those fries also flatter an inspired shaved roasted pork chop sandwich with barbecue cabbage slaw. Gulf shrimp and Gouda-laced grits reappear at brunch alongside short rib chilaquiles and Fruity Pebbles French toast. Upbeat servers and the 48-seat patio welcome refugees from a lively bar blaring ’80s hits. Craft cocktails and fl ights exploit a fierce whiskey collection, and there’s a 14-person Whiskey Room for private parties and tasting menus.

118 W. Chapman Ave., Orange 714-716-1599

Bouillon P

aris native and serial restaurateur Laurent Vrigand fashioned Bouillon after Paris’ Bouillon Chartier (est. 1896), where he often dined with his grandfather in the 1980s. Bouillon is his personal homage to that formula beloved by the generations of working class—one all-day menu of traditional fare at painless prices, no substitutions, no reservations, and snappy service in a bright space. Once home to Juliette and Pascal Olhats’ kitchen of legend, the 60-seat venue sports a new zinc bar and fetching accoutrements Vrigand imports from Paris.

The menu is a nostalgic primer of those French dishes first

introduced to us by Julia Child—oven-hot escargot fuming garlic, a mythic salade frisée aux lardons, ambrosial French onion soup, just for starters. Entrees exude extra-strength comfort: coq au vin, duck confit l’orange, and longsimmered beef bourguignon ladled over al dente pappardelle. Tian Provençal—ratatouille gone fancy—is the year’s best side dish. Plus slices of fresh baguette from Moulin bakery next door. The canny list of French wines at beyond-fair prices is another sleeper find here. And those fabulous profiteroles are your meal’s sweet au revoir.

1000 Bristol St. N, Newport Beach 949-418-9545

April 2022 • O R A N G E C O A S T 83

best new restaurants

Value Plays We Can’t Resist

As prices rise, fast-casual dining looks more intriguing than ever. These players elevate the category with their diligent sourcing and consistent artistry in the kitchen.

FORK AND KNIFE Costa Mesa

NOSH HOUSE Tustin

BURNT CRUMBS Irvine and Huntington Beach

With A Restaurant in his rearview mirror, chef Jonathan Blackford is soaring solo with lavish sandwiches, creative salads, and ravishing takehome meals out of this handy storefront.

A rare, newish kosher cafe has noteworthy sandwiches on rye and pretzel breads, shawarma, and falafel platters, even burgers. Closed Saturdays.

First celebrated for spaghetti grilled cheese, then soufflé pancakes, these trendsetting cafes know we’ll fall for gargantuan breakfast burritos and avocado toasts with their own cult following.

From Tokyo to Manhatt an and now in the shadow of the mission, Keizo Shimamoto’s epic ramen quest is a thrill to behold in eight signature bowls of revelatory broths and noodles.

MARIO’S BUTCHER SHOP Newport Beach Top-shelf butchery meets superior sandwichery at Mario Llamas’ welcoming spot for site-crafted pastrami, corned beef, and burgers on artisan breads. Fresh sides and an appealing patio add to the allure.

84 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2022

O SEA Orange It’s the standout Old Towne choice for creative fare with a wild seafood bent in a lovely setting. Think customizable salads, bowls, and burritos plus inventive shareables with worldly twists. Hip local beers and clever wine selection.

GEORGIA’S Anaheim This family-operated Packing House gem is determined to feed us like family, delighting folks with O.C.’s best soul food—authentic cornbread, signature jambalaya, smothered pork chops, and sweet potato pie.

ADYA Anaheim Packing House staple by chef-owner Shachi Mehra serves elevated Indian street foods such as pana puri, keema naan, and mango lassi. Vegans adore the vegetable curry.

SAIGON BEACH Newport Beach and Laguna Beach It’s beloved for the “legally addictive” 420 Chicken Green Rice served under grilled pork, jackfruit, or solo. Crazy Rich Bao sliders go down easy; house limeades are sunshine on ice.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF FORK AND KNIFE

RAMEN SHACK San Juan Capistrano

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF FORK AND KNIFE

608 Dahlia I

t has been a flourishing year for chef-owner Jessica Roy and her jewel of a cafe inside iconic Sherman Library and Gardens. After taking over the kitchen from her mentor, Pascal Olhats, last summer, Roy guided the alfresco venue through a growth spurt that included a refreshed name, new menu, and intense demand for every one of the 25 patio tables. Smack dab in the heart of this treasured garden, the vibrant setting dazzles with vivid flowers and stunning plantings.

Salads entice with impeccably fresh greens, herbs, and seasonal flavors in dreamy combinations such as medjool dates, spiced pecans with Brie, and local figs. Vegetari-

an tacos bulging with tempura’d sweet potato, melting cheese, avocado, and rainbow slaw are pretty to see and splendid to eat—this could well be her signature dish.

Slender bucatini in brown butter sauce, wild mushrooms, and truffle whipped cream will haunt your appetite for weeks. Don’t visit without ordering a batch of buttermilk, chive, and Gruyère biscuits—they rightly have top billing on the menu. Also new, a crop of exuberant wine-based cocktails that salute seasons with just-clipped herbs and edible flowers straight from the garden. The sprightly Bright Blooming Magave is our favorite.

2647 E. Coast Highway, Corona del Mar 949-220-7229 April 2022 • O R A N G E C O A S T 85

best new restaurants

Paradise Dynasty L

ast September, long lines snaking out the door of Bloomingdale’s South Coast Plaza signaled the arrival of Paradise Dynasty—and revealed that our appetite for luxury dumplings has yet to peak.

Despite the popularity of neighbor Din Tai Fung, there’s enough dumpling adoration to share with this Singapore export founded by restaurant superstar Edwin Chua.

Sleek and straightforward, the dining room surrounds a glass kitchen showcasing nimble dumpling artists. Try the signature rainbow sampler—eight juicy dumplings with color-coordinated wrappers. Tiny cheat sheets guide you through jade green for luffa gourd, black for black truffle, and so on. Venture beyond dumplings into appetizers, dim 86 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2022

sum, la mian, fried noodles, rice dishes—all have their intriguing options. Sichuan crispy chicken is admirably fiery. Two standout dim sum dishes: the warm radish-filled pastry with countless fragile layers; and the tidy stack of cool, crisp lettuce rolls that taste like the color green.

Don’t skip soups starring the spellbinding pork bone broth, intense, nuanced, and rightly acclaimed. Though Kurobuta pork is exalted, chicken is a sleeper pick, particularly the XLB or chicken dumplings in chile vinaigrette. For dessert, griddle-hot pumpkin pastries are the healthiest donuts in Costa Mesa. Warm black sesame balls are one-bite treats that go down like peanut butter mochi.

3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa 714-617-4630

Roxy’z A

fter 35 years in the game, Zov Karamardian’s now-familiar name is synonymous with delectable. Yet her newest venture bears another name—Roxy’z. After going dark for months, Zov’s Anaheim location resurfaced as a breezy watering hole named for her mother, the reputed family renegade. Large prints of historic Anaheim places, moments, and Mickey Mouse surround the sun-splashed interior.

There’s even one of a smiling Roxy in 1958. A hip list of scratch cocktails and rotating taps of local brews anchor the reimagined corner bar in this increasingly urbanized zone. Front-loaded with shareable appetizers, the menu supports impromptu gatherings and drop-in dining. Pe-

tite tostadas recall zesty shrimp-avocado ceviche. Onion strings ride beside sweet-spicy baby back ribs that easily release their sticky meat. Under meaty slabs of Duroc pork belly lives velvety hummus dotted with harissa and pliant pita for scooping. Pizzas are the menu’s superpower. It’s a new category for team Zov, and all five— including the Meatza Pizza—are marvelous. There’s a wicked burger: superb ground chuck, charbroiled, and simply adorned with superior cheddar on toasted brioche. Roxy’z offers a worthy happy hour, weekdays from 3 to 6 p.m. It’s slated to expand for baseball season, when it gets underway.

1801 E. Katella Ave., Anaheim 714-280-9687 April 2022 • O R A N G E C O A S T 87

best new restaurants

Bordering On Obsession Our endless love for Mexican fare propels a giant wave of new arrivals.

PUESTO Anaheim, Huntington Beach

TASTE CANTINA Huntington Beach

Two new eye-popping venues for canny booze creations, tantalizing tacos

O.C. mainstay Chris Tzorin debuts an all-Mexican lineup of pork belly poppers, stacked enchiladas, and bougie tacos.

CARMELITA’S TAQUERIA Dana Point Over-the-counter tacos in made-while-you-watch blue corn tortillas

AMORCITO Costa Mesa Michelin-noted chef Thomas Ortega’s take on fast fare featuring improbable taco salad, quesabirria tacos

QUE VIDA TACOS Huntington Beach Slick dine-in locals’ spot serving craft y margs, Sonora street dogs, and dreamy churro milkshakes

TACOS MADRE Costa Mesa Jaunty, student-friendly joint for birria pizza, tacos with vegan and keto options

THREE ROOTS MEXICAN COCINA Santa Ana Jazzy platings of terrific chile verde, stacked ahi tostadas, unexpected ex-Olive Garden venue

LA LUCHA MEXICAN KITCHEN Santa Ana

BIRRIERIA GUADALAJARA Costa Mesa

Neighborhood family’s luchador-themed storefront with peak tortas, tacos, weekend sopas, and guisadas

Revelatory birria appears in tacos and ramen. Don’t-miss the Titanic torta ahogada.

TACOS EL JEFE Stanton

CASA DEL SOL Tustin Live mariachi music by top local and touring bands, festive old-school platters, good for groups

BALVINA’S Laguna Hills Longtime Break of Dawn cook Alex Cuellar launches a menu of Puebla comfort classics— mole poblano, pozole verde, pipian rojo.

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Local family serves tiny plain tacos bulging with juicy meats.

Generous condiment bar, super Tuesday deals.

BUENOS MIGOS Stanton Rodeo 39 stop for hot chipotle chicken or birria street tacos, nachos, and ube horchata

LAS SALSAS TAQUERIA Orange By-the-dozen taco packs start at $18. Great salsa.

Poppy & Seed P

oppy & Seed’s chef-owner Michael Reed is a quick-change artist. He constantly fine-tunes his menu to express the seasons in his of-themoment cooking. Think sourdough tartines with seasonal fruits and cheeses, lamb meatballs with sauces that switch up every few weeks, and fresh pastas that shift from delicate to robust, weather depending. Vegetable dishes often shine. Right now is prime time for ramps, strawberries, and English peas, though don’t dawdle or you’ll miss the roasted beets and ripe berries married with basil, yogurt, and pistachio. Proteins shine as brightly as the produce. The changing array can include pork ribs, duck, beef, and select seafood. Wagyu

hangar steak from Texas’ esteemed Rosewood Ranch is a frequent guest star. Reed and his wife, Kwini, also own Poppy + Rose, a popular daytime cafe in DTLA, so of course weekend brunch at Poppy & Seed is solid and reliably buzzy. The menu isn’t as dynamic as the one at dinner, but fans can’t say no to the standout fried chicken thighs, delicate biscuits, and sweet Nutella waffles. With four full seasons now under its belt, the Packing Houseadjacent restaurant is settled. Reservations are simplified via Open Table. The kitchen is leaning into tasting menus, cheese boards, and cocktails concocted with an astonishing selection of site-grown herbs.

350 S. Anaheim Blvd., Anaheim 714-603-7130

April 2022 • O R A N G E C O A S T 89

best new restaurants

Little Sister L

ittle Sister is done thinking small. In the beginning, we fell hard for Tin Vuong’s LSXO (Little Sister Extraordinary), his teensy Huntington Beach speakeasy born in 2016. Acclaim followed and a big Little Sister was born at the Irvine Spectrum last May. The stylized Vietnamese bistro menu has grown to oblige Spectrum foot traffic, most notably with lunch-only eats— deluxe takes on bánh mì sandwiches and chao rice porridges. Everything else is served all day, scores of dishes eff usively presented with vibrant herbs, colorful rices, and proteins redolent with fresh char. Spirit-forward cocktails stand up to assertive openers such as floppy dumplings

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plump with pork, shrimp, and crab—or Vuong’s crunchyjuicy papaya salad with grilled prawns and ruby red shards of salty “Viet beef jerky.” Also in the salad lane, limesoaked raw beef and crispy shallots with a heap of rau ram, basil, and mint. Zesty to its core, it readily outshines the routine beef tartare. The pork chop with homespun chicken fat rice and fried egg is the plate you crave late at night, and again days later. Succulent fillets of flash-fried sea bass are rich enough to take on scalding scallion oil, zingy ginger, red chile, and crushed peanuts. For dessert, the rustic pecan-date tart delivers gut-level joy.

896 Spectrum Center Drive, Irvine 949-800-8798

Caló C

aló Kitchen + Tequila could easily pass for a chic Baja beach cantina. Laguna Niguel locals beam tequila-fueled smiles across the massive marble bar while the confident servers ferry Mexican classics throughout the space. Caló knows well the dishes we can’t resist because its creators are the group behind Carmelita’s Kitchen in Rancho Santa Margarita. You’ll find nothing new amid scores of starters and specialties, which include one-, two-, and three-item combination plates. Innovation isn’t the point, so execution is everything. A whopping mound of vibrant, immaculate shrimp ceviche disappears pronto on hefty chips. Hand-formed

gorditas are fat with garlicky potato and longaniza.

Deliciously retro crispy beef tacos seem like diet food compared to the mighty short rib enchiladas with their thick tortillas. Baked crab and shrimp enchiladas are rich with sour cream. Portions are generous and all the better to soak up well-poured margaritas you know and love— serrano chile, fresh blackberry, and crisp cucumber. It’s an in-your-face fabulous setting, drenched in natural light by day, lit by modernistic chandeliers at night. Service is tiptop. The intention is clear: This place is out to make you a regular.

28141 Crown Valley Parkway, Laguna Niguel 949-409-7380 April 2022 • O R A N G E C O A S T 91

best new restaurants

The pandemic wiped out many happy hours. But we still have lots of favorites that are more than worth the trip.

$5

Price of secretrecipe mai tais with a view at Sunsets Bar & Grill in Capistrano Beach (4 to 7 p.m. weekdays)

$6

Cost of draft or bottled beer at Hendrix in Laguna Niguel, which has eight on tap nightly (4 to 6 p.m. daily)

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7

Number of discounted gluten-free tacos and snacks at plant-based Gracias Madre in Newport Beach (2 to 6 p.m. weekdays, except Taco Tuesday)

17

Number of small plates and pizzas discounted at Brü Grill in Lake Forest (2 to 6 p.m. weekdays, 3 to 6 p.m. weekends)

52

Number of weekly specialty cocktails invented by Newport Beach’s Bello bartender Lorenzo Ricchi per year (4 to 6:30 p.m.

Sunday through Wednesday)

740

Calories in the $12 wine-plusflatbread deal at Seasons 52 in Costa Mesa (3 to 6 p.m.

Monday through Thursday)

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE

Happy Hours by the Numbers

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE

Bottega Angelina L

aguna Niguel’s chic late arrival came close to not making our list as it was spanking new, and reservations weren’t functioning in those early weeks.

Waiting for the door to unlock was the only gambit that worked. Once inside, it was clear the team behind Pizzeria Angelina spared nothing to transform the former Savannah Chop House into a stunner. Ceilings soar to striking heights. Endless windows bring forward the 180-degree coastal view. And there’s a vast patio scattered with umbrella tables. Tiny tables hugging the ocean blue banquette are cramped. But they’re bookended by the

fire-breathing pizza oven counter, and the grand freestanding marble bar, each with more comfortable seating.

Concise and still adjusting, the menus tempt with lunch sandwiches, house-made pastas, and roasted meats. All the Angelina pizzas are here, and we know them well by now. Sophisticated cocktails and fresh pastas supply some thrills from the menu’s first draft. The bourbon Lupollo with strawberry lambic foam is novel. House gnocchi with pato negra ragù is luxurious and priced that way.

Sizzling grilled lamb chops make a lovely spring entree.

32441 Golden Lantern, Laguna Niguel 949-542-8220 April 2022 • O R A N G E C O A S T 93

PHOTOGRAPH BY LORENZO HODGES

PHOTOGRAPH BY LORENZO HODGES

PACKING A PUNCHLINE S N A P S H O T

The witty and charismatic Rita Rudner, who performs this month at Segerstrom Center for the Arts, discusses her comedy tour, upcoming memoir, and permanent move to Dana Point. by Astgik Khatchatryan

Known for her long-running residencies on the Las Vegas Strip, Rudner has spent many years splitting her time between that city and O.C. But after the pandemic hit pause on live performances, she and husband Martin Bergman decided to move here full-time this past winter. It’s a natural fit for Rudner, who has deep ties to the county and often performs at the Laguna Playhouse.

“We had our honeymoon at the Ritz-Carlton 33 years ago. My husband is English, and he said, ‘We have to get married because my visa has run out’—because he’s very romantic. So we got married at the courthouse and went to the Ritz, which had just opened. We couldn’t afford an ocean view, but when they found out it was our honeymoon they gave us an oceanview suite. We always came back to Laguna or Dana Point and said, ‘One day we’ll be able to buy a house here.’ And it only took 30 years.”

Rudner spent much of the pandemic writing a memoir, set to be published later this year.

It delves into her long and celebrated career, which began at age 15 when she moved to New York to become a Broadway dancer. “I wouldn’t let my daughter do that, but I had strange circumstances; my mother had passed away, and my father had married somebody who didn’t like me.” At the age of 27, after appearing in shows such as “Promises, Prom-

There’s a quote I love: ‘Ride the horse in the direction it’s going.’

It’s an easier ride. My horse always went to Vegas. Now it’s going another way.

ises,” “The Magic Show,” and “Annie,” she pivoted to stand-up comedy.

“I said, there are so many dancers and actresses who are so good. But I only know two female stand-up comedians. So why don’t I do that?

There should be more of us. It took me two years to get five minutes of material, and then I got on the Letterman show. I had the dancing discipline. You know what they say about comedians—it doesn’t matter when you call them, you’ll wake them up. Because they’re notoriously lazy. What I had going for me was I wasn’t lazy. I am now, but I wasn’t then.”

The Las Vegas residency began in 2000 after Rudner and Bergman adopted their daughter. But after more than 1.5 million tickets sold, Rudner says she’s ready for a change. Her tour takes her all over the U.S. and Canada. Many of the shows, including the one this month at Segerstrom Center for the Arts, were originally meant to be double bills with her longtime friend Louie Anderson, who died in January. “I miss him and think about him all the time. He was such a truly talented comedian.”

Fans are as eager for Rudner’s return to the stage as she is. “I didn’t do it for two years! I had always said, comedy is so low maintenance; I have a dress and a notebook and all I need is a microphone. Well, it turns out I need an audience, too. My first show back, right before the New Year’s Eve show at the Laguna Playhouse, was so scary. I forgot the end of a joke. But the audience was with me the whole time because it was the first time they’d been out, too. It felt like we’d just been released from prison.”

April 2022 • OR A NGE C OAST 95

Crystal Cove SUE BRANICA 96 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2022

G OOD MOR N I NGS S unr is e s in Or ange C oun t y c an be a s var ied and be au t i f ul a s t he pe ople w ho li ve her e.

We’ve c ap t ur ed jus t a f e w t o r emind you o f t he gr andeur on displ ay ever y d ay, i f you p ay a t t en t ion. For a de eper look a t f abulous mor nings in O.C., be s ur e t o che ck ou t our M ay i s s ue.

April 2022 • O R A N G E C O A S T 97

Reef Point (during a fire) J I M S WA N S O N

Anaheim

San Clemente

T O D D M AT T E R N

D AV I D VA N D E R W O U D E

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Laguna Beach JA MES CASTILLO April 2022 • O R A N G E C O A S T 99

Huntington Beach SA M ARCHAG A

Newport Beach

Tustin

L A I R D H AY E S

ANET MEYER

100 O R A N G E C O A S T • April 2022

Mission Viejo N I YA Z P I R A N I April 2022 • O R A N G E C O A S T 101

South Coast Plaza 714.556.4808

S P O N S O R E D CONT E NT

POWER AT TORNEYS

2022

POWER ATTORNEYS

Callahan & Blaine | Bentley & More LLP | Meyer, Olson, Lowry & Meyers LLP Michelle A. Reinglass | Paoli & Purdy, PC | Samer Habbas | West Coast Defense | Russell Kerr

April 2022 • Or a nge Coast 103

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POWER AT TORNEYS

THE LAW OFFICES OF

CALLAHAN & BLAINE

E

stablished in 1984, Callahan & Blaine consists of 28 experienced trial attorneys.

The firm was founded by Daniel J. Callahan, one of the country’s top trial lawyers. For example, the National Law Journal named Dan one of the “Top 10 Attorneys” in the United States, and California Lawyer magazine designated him “California Lawyer of the Year.”

CALIFORNIA’S PREMIER LITIGATION FIRM

Callahan & Blaine has achieved record breaking verdicts and settlements across a diverse range of litigation issues. “We don’t

104 Ora nge C o ast • April 2022

have a narrow focus in any one area of the law,” notes Managing Partner Ed Susolik.

“Instead, our attorneys have expertise in a broad spectrum of complex litigation matters, including business litigation, insurance law, labor/employment defense and catastrophic personal injury. We are also equally adept at both plaintiff and defense perspectives.”

County. In addition, Callahan & Blaine obtained a $50 Million settlement which is certified by West Trial Digest as the largest personal injury settlement in United States history. Callahan & Blaine also has the largest insurance bad faith judgment in Orange County history ($58 Million), and the largest employment settlement ($38 Million). Most recently, the firm settled a bicycle accident case for $17 Million.

RECORD BREAKING VERDICTS AND SETTLEMENTS

A SPECIALTY OF WINNING

Callahan & Blaine has a broad range of historic results. Most notable is the firm’s $934 Million jury verdict in a complex business litigation case, which is the largest jury verdict in the history of Orange

Each of Callahan & Blaine’s 28 senior attorneys is an experienced and accomplished litigator. Callahan & Blaine’s attorneys have expertise in a wide diversity of practice areas, including

S P O N S O R E D CONT E NT

POWER AT TORNEYS

EXPERIENCE AND EXPERTISE MATTERS insurance law, intellectual property, trade secrets, employment law, catastrophic personal injury, real estate, business torts and corporate governance. For example, Ed Susolik, the partner in charge of the firm’s insurance department, has handled over 1000 insurance disputes on behalf of businesses and individuals over the last 31 years. As explained by Susolik, “Callahan & Blaine specializes in the one thing that matters most to clients: winning.”

HONORS AND AWARDS

Callahan & Blaine’s attorneys have achieved many awards and honors over the years. For example, Susolik has been named to the “Top 100 Attorneys in

Southern California” list by Super Lawyers magazine from 2009 to 2022. Similarly, partners Michael Sachs and Brian McCormack have all achieved numerous judicial victories in recent years, and represent the next generation of Callahan & Blaine trial lawyers. For example, Brian McCormack was recently named Trial Lawyer of the Year by the Orange County Trial Lawyers Association.

BUSINESS LITIGATION INSURANCE LAW LABOR/EMPLOYMENT DEFENSE PERSONAL INJURY

callahan-law.com 3 Hutton Centre Drive, Suite 900 Santa Ana, CA 92707 (714) 241-4444 | f. (714) 241-4445

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BENTLEY & MORE LLP

S

outhern California trial attorneys Greg Bentley and Keith More have extensive experience handling complex litigation in a wide range of practice areas, including product liability, workers’ compensation, government entity liability, insurance bad faith, and catastrophic personal injury. With the resources and experience to handle even the most complicated claims, the firm “specializes in difficult ‘crossover’ cases that touch multiple practice areas, including assisting injured workers get the care they need as well as

litigating against the third party that caused the harm,” say the attorneys.

Formed in 2016, Bentley & More has quickly earned a reputation for getting exceptional outcomes for their clients.

No stranger to accolades, Greg Bentley and Keith More lead a team of attorneys that have been repeatedly recognized by Super Lawyers, Best Lawyers, and other attorney organizations for their exceptional work and dedication to clients. The firm’s namesakes were recently recognized as Super Lawyers Top 50 in OC and Top 100 in Southern California, with More being

bentleymore.com 4931 Birch Street, Newport Beach, CA 92660 (949) 870-3800 106 Ora nge C oast • April 2022

named the 2022 Lawyer of the Year for Workers’ Compensation Law – Claimants in Orange County.

Known as passionate advocates, Bentley & More are described by clients as “aggressive and confident, yet deeply compassionate.” A secret to their success?

“We work closely with our clients to deeply understand their lives and needs – we tell their story,” says Bentley.

“We truly are helping people at their worst moments and creating a better life for them,” adds More.

S P O N S O R E D CONT E NT

POWER AT TORNEYS

From left: Doreen Marie Olson, Felicia R. Meyers, Lisa Helfend Meyer, Dana Lowy

MEYER, OLSON, LOWY & MEYERS LLP LEADERS IN RESOLVING HIGH STAKES DIVORCES

T

he legal team of Meyer, Olsen, Lowry & Meyers (MOLM) has built a national reputation for tenacious representation in family law litigation, particularly complex and contentious divorces. This female-owned firm is especially adept at handling cases that involve high-asset marital estates, child custody matters, domestic violence, and move-away cases.

The firm’s goal-driven, skilled, and experienced attorneys bring a

combination of legal sophistication and empathy to their clients, who include entertainers, executives, professionals, and pro athletes.

MOLM’s lawyers seek to initially settle cases outside the courtroom, but they also have a tract record of impressive trial work. This includes handling a groundbreaking California case establishing that vested stock options should be included in the supporting parent’s gross income and a case involving an international move-away request for a parent with a minor child.

molfamlaw.com Los Angeles | 10100 Santa Monica Boulevard., Suite 1425, Los Angeles, CA 90067 (310) 277-4847 Irvine | 3161 Michaelson Drive, Suite 1160, Irvine, CA 92612 (949) 397-3977 / FX (949) 800-1309 April 2022 • Or a ng e Coast 107

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MICHELLE A. REINGLASS ALTERNATIVE DISPUTE RESOLUTION/MEDIATION

H

aving transitioned from her 30-year career as a lawyer handling employment, business and civil cases, to become a Mediator, Michelle Reinglass is the perfect choice as a neutral.

Michelle’s broad mediation practice covers the same areas and others. Named one of the Top 50 Mediators by the L.A. Daily Journal, Michelle strives to help clients resolve their cases and avoid the uncertainty of litigation.

“I feel buoyed by a seemingly impossible

case, when I can say “We’ve reached a deal,” she notes. “I bring experience, a positive attitude and mindset, along with intuition, empathy and a strong work ethic to my cases. If a case doesn’t settle on the day of mediation, I work hard following up afterward to get it settled.”

An exceptional listener, Michelle often helps clients determine what they truly hope to achieve with dispute resolution. One happy client states: “Michelle was engaged, energetic, and effective in helping diffuse the animosity that developed between the parties and getting us to settlement.”

reinglassadr.com 120 Vantis Drive, Suite 300, Aliso Viejo, CA 92656 (949) 587-0460 | michelle@reinglassadr.com 108 Ora nge C oast • April 2022

Others state: “Persistence and patience were extraordinary.” ; “Nothing but the highest praise for Michelle and how she conducted the mediation…among the best mediation experiences I have had.”

Michelle is also an expert in the principals of achieving balance in life. She is proud of her new book, due out soon, titled “How To Break Free From Addiction to Busy, Discover Your Life in Balance”.

“I love the humanity side of this work, where I meet new people daily-I’m blessed to have the opportunity to be an instrument to bring peace to people.”

S P O N S O R E D CONT E NT

POWER AT TORNEYS

PAOLI & PURDY, PC WILLIAM PAOLI AND COURT PURDY | TRIAL ATTORNEYS

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n the heels of their recognition as OCTLA Trial Lawyers of the Year in Government Entity Liability Cases in 2020, attorneys Bill Paoli and Court Purdy navigated the constraints of the Covid lockdown to continue winning positive outcomes for their clients.

The highlight of 2021 was negotiating a $9,500,000.00 settlement for a motorcyclist left paraplegic due to defective

road design in San Bernardino County.

They overcame substantial defenses based on a multitude of government immunities, to prevail, resolving the case on the eve of trial, and assuring their client the lifelong care and comfort he deserved.

William Paoli is a certified Civil Trial Advocacy Specialist recognized by the National Board of Trial Advocacy, a member of ABOTA, the American Board of Trial Advocates, CAALA and the Association of

Trial Lawyers of America, as well as a proud veteran of the US Marine Corps.

Court Purdy has decades of success in litigating catastrophic injury and wrongful death cases, concentrating on roadway design and construction issues with an emphasis on claims against government entities. He also has extensive expertise in the field of environmental law, specializing in cases involving exposure to mold, lead, asbestos, chemicals and other toxins.

paolipurdylaw.com 4340 Von Karman Avenue, Suite 100, Newport Beach, CA 92660 (949) 752-7711 April 2022 • Or a nge Coast 109

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LAW OFFICES OF SAMER HABBAS & ASSOCIATES PERSONAL INJURY LAW FIRM

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enacious by nature, Managing Partner, Samer Habbas founded the Law Offices of Samer Habbas & Associates—a full-service personal injury law firm— on the mantra that the client always comes first; “our client’s satisfaction is our success”. With multiple offices located in Irvine, Anaheim, Los Angeles, Riverside, El Segundo and San Diego, the firm represents injured victims all across Southern California.

The firm’s trial lawyers handle a variety of personal injury matters; from car accidents, dog bites and work-related injuries, to funeral home negligence and sexual assault claims, and are not afraid to step into the courtroom to get the justice their clients deserve.

“We see our clients as more than just a number. We fight for justice and represent those who have been wronged and suffer from emotional and physical damages as a result of another party’s negligence,” says Habbas.

habbaspilaw.com 200 Spectrum Center Driver, Suite 1230, Irvine, CA 92618 (949) 288-2416 | @habbaspilaw 110 Ora nge C o ast • April 2022

Committed to community service, the firm consistently dedicates time and resources to giving back. Whether it is providing scholarships and mentorships to students, donating to non-profit organizations, or lending a helping hand to the underprivileged members of the community at fundraisers and shelters, the law office strives year-round to give back to those in need.

S P O N S O R E D CONT E NT

POWER AT TORNEYS

WEST COAST DEFENSE ANTHONY J. FALANGETTI, APC | ATTORNEY AT LAW

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California native and former prosecutor with the Los Angeles County District Attorney’s Office, Anthony Falangetti has over 26 years of legal experience on both sides of the criminal justice system. Now, for more than a decade, his entire practice is devoted to defending the accused, protecting our Constitutional rights, and fighting for American liberty.

“I’ve represented actors and actresses, directors and producers, professional athletes, and politicians, but day in and day out I bring that same high-level representation to good, hard-working people who find themselves caught up in the criminal justice system for the first time.”

Anthony’s excellence as a criminal trial lawyer has earned him numerous awards and honors. He has been recognized by

California Super Lawyers® consecutively from 2012 to present. But, for Anthony, what matters most is the quality of results he achieves for his clients.

“Most of my clients have never been in any kind of trouble before. For many of them, their jobs are on the line and their livelihood is at stake. I’m here to protect those things. The rest of their life should not be defined by their worst moment. I am here to give them their future back.”

westcoastdefense.com 7755 Center Avenue, Suite 1100, Huntington Beach, CA 92647 800) 923-1776 April 2022 • Or a nge Coast 111

Tips for Recovering Diminished Value and Loss of Use Damages

E

VERY CAR BUYER

a vehicle’s Fair Market Value

understands a vehicle’s

before the accident and

accident history can

immediately after repairs

substantially reduce its value.

have been completed. While

The first thing most savvy car

the trend is slowly changing,

buyers do when purchasing a

you can expect insurance

used vehicle is check the car’s

companies to aggressively deny

accident history with a service

diminished value damages,

like CARFAX. Even if a car

falsely claiming they’re not

seems mechanically sound and

recoverable in California or

cosmetically clean, the car’s

a vehicle must first be sold to

accident history significantly decreases its market value. If your vehicle is damaged in a collision

determine damages.

Loss of Use is also an important item of

due to someone else’s negligence, you’re entitled to

damages in California. Damages for loss of use are

recover more than repair costs. You’re also entitled

calculated by what a similar car to yours would rent

to recover the ‘Diminished Value’ and ‘Loss of Use’

for during the time reasonably necessary to repair

of your vehicle from being damaged and repaired.

or replace a vehicle following an accident.

Diminished Value is the difference between

Damages for Loss of Use can be significant.

the market value of a car prior to a collision and

Most new, luxury or exotic cars are expensive to

its reduced value immediately after having been

rent. Repairing these vehicles may take weeks or

repaired. The idea is simple, given a choice

months to complete. It’s not unusual for a high-end

between two vehicles, one that has been in a

vehicle to rent for $1,000 or more per day. If repairs

serious collision and another which has not,

take sixty days, the Loss of Use would be $60,000.

buyers will invariably choose the vehicle without

________________________________________

a collision history. No matter how well a car

About the Author:

has been repaired, it’s invariably worth less than

Russell Kerr of Kerr & Sheldon

before the collision.

Law Firm has been handling

In California, damages for diminished

diminished value and loss of use

value can be recovered against the insurer for the

claims exclusively for the past

party who negligently damaged your car, but not

four years. In 2015, Kerr was

against your own insurer. Diminished value is

instrumental in petitioning the California Supreme

likely not recoverable in California for a leased

Court Judicial Counsel to change the DV jury

vehicle unless you sustain an actual loss upon lease

instruction to make clear California consumers can

termination.

recover both the cost of repairing their cars, as well

Proving Diminished Value damages generally requires hiring an appraiser to determine

as any loss in value from the accident. To learn more email: Russell@KerrLawFirm.com

OVER $2 MILLION RECOVERED

HAS YOUR CAR LOST VALUE FOLLOWING AN ACCIDENT?

Diminished Value and Loss of Use ARE Recoverable BEFORE ACCIDENT $293,900

AFTER ACCIDENT REPAIR $210,700

DIMINISHED VALUE

The decreased value of a car following an accident and all proper repairs.

LOSS OF USE

The cost to rent a similar vehicle while car is being repaired.

We’re California’s #1 law firm for Diminished Value and Loss of Use claims.

Over $2 million recovered... and counting!

&

Kerr Sheldon A A PROFESSIONAL PROFESSIONAL LAW LAW CORPORATION CORPORATION

714.531.5900 | KerrLawFirm.com | russell@kerrlawfirm.com

DINING GUIDE A

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DINING GUIDE ORANGE COUNT Y’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE F O R R E S TAU R A N T N E W S & M I N I R E V I E W S P R I C I N G $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25 Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant

ALISO VIEJO OPAH Trendy and sleek, this neighborhood hottie oozes a hip energy that attracts single minglers and ’burban scene-hunters in search of artfully prepared California cuisine. Choose from a varied, creative menu with an array of signature items. Monster martinis keep the mood lively. 26851 Aliso Creek Road, 949-360-8822. $$

ANAHEIM BLUSKY RESTAURANT & BAR Gawk at the view from the 12-story rooftop digs, but know that Blusky’s Basque cuisine is what really makes this hotel restaurant Anaheim’s most interesting newcomer. Executive chef Edgar Beas is fresh off stints at Michelin-starred kitchens, applying mastery to a tight menu of Spanish dishes. Look for Iberico pork items, indulgent salt cod, and lobster paella. Late night, the place thumps with club action. Radisson Blu, 1601 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-4091458. Dinner only $$ CATAL RESTAURANT AND UVA BAR Dead center in Downtown Disney, Catal is the Patina Group’s nod to Spain’s Mediterranean cuisine. Expect an urbane spin on rustic fare such as lobster paella, making this one of the zone’s better spots for fine dining. Just outside, Uva Bar is an alfresco saloon with light eats and great peoplewatching. 1580 Disneyland Drive, 714-774-4442. $$$ MORTON’S, THE STEAKHOUSE Steaks—including the 24-ounce porterhouse and center-cut filet mignon—are wet-aged 23 to 25 days.

Fill your plate with giant sides of broccoli and hash browns, but leave a little room: There’s chocolate cake for dessert. Killer bar-bite deals nightly from 4:30 to closing. 1895 S. Harbor Blvd., 714-621-0101.

See South Coast Metro location. $$$

NAPA ROSE Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house— no park admission required. Star chef Andrew Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal New American fare.

The room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy waitstaff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa, 1313 Disneyland Drive, 714-300-7170. $$$ POKINOMETRY Downtown Anaheim’s build-a-poke-bowl canteen is busy for three reasons: The food is delectable, cheap, and made your way. All the elements of delicious Hawaiian poke are assembled based on what you choose. Pick from cubed raw fish, white or brown rice, fresh onions, cucumber, avocado, mild to incendiary sauces, and vibrant garnishes of smelt roe, sesame seeds, nori, pickled ginger, and wasabi.

Parking is problematic, so go off-hours, or pay for a spot in the Wells Fargo garage off West Broadway. 184 S. Harbor Blvd., 657-208-3488. No alcohol. $ POPPY & SEED Chef-owner Michael Reed applies his versatile chops to a spirited, seasonal dinner menu of share plates and thoughtful proteins. Clever variations on of-the-moment produce are high points, as are premium steaks and duck dishes. The one-of-a-kind greenhouse garden setting is a calming contrast to neighbor Anaheim Packing House.

Weekend brunch. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 350 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-603-7130 $$$ THE RANCH

Oozing ambition, this upscale venue boasts a yowza saloon and a fine dining room so serious about sourcing, it maintains a private farm in the nearby foothills. A whopping menu of decidedly seasonal American fare boasts both uptown and down-home dishes. Live entertainment and dancing keep the deluxe honkytonk UPDATE

hopping on weekends. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-8174200. $$$ ROXY’Z Zov’s Anaheim resurfaced as this breezy watering hole inspired by Zov Karamardian’s mother and reputed renegade Roxy. Craft cocktails, imaginative share plates, and premier pizzas dominate a menu designed for gathering before or after games, concerts, and Disneyland visits. Don’t-miss dishes include the chile-glazed rib stack, fried chicken sandwich, and kebab platter. There’s an elevated beer program and a midweek happy hour. 1801 E. Katella Ave., 714-280-9687. $$ ROY’S Chef-partner Laura Reyes adds dishes to Roy Yamaguchi’s signature collection of Hawaiian-Asian favorites. From sushi to dessert, the accent is on fresh flavors. This location is Convention Centerand Disneyland-close. 321 W. Katella Ave., 714-7767697. $$$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Sizzling Prime steaks custom-aged 21 days are served topped with big pats of butter. Founder Ruth Fertel grew up in New Orleans so there are crab cakes, Gulf shrimp, and sweet potato casserole. 2041 S. Harbor Blvd., 714-750-5466. See Irvine location. $$$ TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong now adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local produce and allnatural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675 E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223. Beer and wine. $$ URBANA This colorful latecomer to the Anaheim Packing House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$

ANAHEIM HILLS EL CHOLO A spiffy suburban outpost of the combo-plate chain that started in L.A. in 1923. Many dishes are listed with their year of origin. One of the best dates from the birth of the restaurant: the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 8200 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-769-6269. See Corona del Mar and La Habra locations. $$ REUNION KITCHEN + DRINK Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and house-made desserts. Modern cocktails and

OUR CRITERIA Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and staff and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast.

Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classifications are based on a typical three‑course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com.

114 Ora nge C o ast • April 2022

a roomy patio increase the pleasure factor. 5775 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach. $$ ROSINE’S MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT This neighborhood darling includes a 20-seat bar, complete with a full liquor license and a clutch of specialty cocktails. Fragrant rotisserie chickens are always popular, though the menu now offers winebraised lamb shanks, and Pacific ono skewers. A sizable roster of gluten-free choices anchors a spin-off menu. 721 S. Weir Canyon Road, 714-283-5141. $$

BRE A BRUNOS ITALIAN KITCHEN One of North County’s best venues boasts advantages that are fairly rare in these parts: thoughtfully executed Italian cuisine, a cozy setting, and appealing prices. This sibling of neighbor Cha Cha’s does winning arancini, steamed mussels, house-made pappardelle, and a fine branzino. A notable happy hour features steep discounts on terrific appetizers and signature Italian cocktails. 210 W. Birch St., 714-257-1000. $$ CEDAR CREEK INN A gorgeous patio, welcoming lounge, and attractive dining room lend upscale charisma to this handsome eatery with an appealing menu that has something for everyone. Coffee-shop favorites get deluxe attention. Salads, sandwiches, and desserts are particularly strong. Dependably skilled service.

20 Pointe Drive, 714-255-5600. $$ CHA CHA’S L ATIN KITCHEN This cool hang with a wraparound sidewalk patio is Birch Street Promenade’s most enduring dining success. Helmed by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni, the menu of modern Mexican fare is boosted by a wood-burning oven and new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole. Taco Tuesday is just one of many weekly specials. Impressive tequila menu.

110 W. Birch St., 714-255-1040. See Irvine location. $$ MACALL ANS PUBLIC HOUSE Chef Andrew Wang’s modern but comforting pub cooking is just one upgrade that’s helping this young venue finally catch on in North County. Topnotch whiskey offerings and a killer Irish breakfast on weekends also entice. Don’t miss the ridiculously authentic Irish coffee, or stop in for the very robust happy hour. The upscale vibe is a welcome switch from the usual timeworn pub conditions. 330 W. Birch St., 714-529-1224. $$ OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran Tony Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with first-class seafood, precise cocktails, and cosseting service.

Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a 25-seat bar with charcuterie platters. 180 S. Brea Blvd., 714592-3122. $$$ TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY Taps continues to be O.C.’s landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pasta, steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

Grand seafood platter at Old Brea Chop House value-seekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast.

101 E. Imperial Highway, 714-257-0101. $$

CORONA DEL MAR 608 DAHLIA Chef-owner Jessica Roy transformed the NEW alfresco gem inside iconic Sherman Library & Gardens with a new name and joyous take on seasonal fare. Dreamy salads are impeccably fresh, pastas imaginative, and vegetarian tacos are a signature dish in the making. Effusive wine cocktails. 2647 E. Coast Highway, 949-220-7229.

Lunch only. $$ THE BUNGALOW Comfy booths, a lively bar with stiff martinis, and lots of premium wines by the glass lure diners to this dinner house darling with the feel of a Craftsman home. Prime beef is king, but you also can get a huge Aussie lobster tail. Desserts are classic berries and cream, and chocolate souffle cake, so you can concentrate on your surf ’n’ turf. Lunch is hearty sandwiches and huge high-quality salads.

Just save us a seat on the charming patio. 2441 E. Coast Highway, 949-673-6585. $$$ CDM RESTAURANT The successful team behind much-loved A Restaurant pounced on the defunct Crow Bar, retooling it with scraped light-wood floors, peacock-blue velvet booths, leather chairs, and a free-standing, alwaysbusy bar. The kitchen takes on seasonal, contemporary American fare. Think a trio of unexpectedly sublime pizzas. Ethereal Parker House rolls. A killer Niman Ranch pork chop. 2325 E. Coast Highway, 949287-6600. $$$ EL CHOLO It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 3520 E. Coast Highway, 949-777-6137. See Anaheim Hills and La Habra locations. $

FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth and busiest enterprise yet, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurant-gazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301 San Joaquin Hills Road, 949-640-1415. $$$ FIVE CROWNS O.C.’s beloved, vine-covered, fine-dining landmark of 1965 stays current thanks to a refreshed menu by executive chef Alejandra Padilla (formerly with Hillstone and Patina groups). Foodies thrill to foie gras brûlée and roast goose with wild grains, but sumptuous feasts of prime rib retain a hallowed spot on the carte at this Lawry’s-owned institution.

As always, service is polished and accommodating.

Leave room for the righteous sundae made with C.C. Brown’s hot fudge, an old Hollywood marvel. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-760-0331. Dinner only. $$$ QUIET WOMAN Perpetually packed with locals for decades, the Q-Dub (as it’s known) pours mean drinks and notable wines by the glass, and keeps a teensy kitchen busy cranking out more-than-decent American grub such as filet mignon sliders and crab cakes, at prices that reflect the ZIP code. Most nights, a house band cranks up the decibels and enlivens the vibe.

3224 E. Coast Highway, 949-640-7440. $$ SIDEDOOR Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always interesting wines by the glass, craft beers, and signature cocktails boost the

April 2022 • Or a nge Coast 115

DINING GUIDE

CREATIVE CUCINA | BELLO CHEF’S TABLE

inviting room’s jolly British vibe. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-717-4322. $$

COSTA MESA [

SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO

]

2145 EATS Santa Ana native and Pizzeria Ortica veteran Eduardo Salcedo brings an artisan mindset and Japanese aesthetic to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint in a cleverly repurposed auto shop. Aromas of almond-wood fire whet the appetite for his finely crafted pies and imaginative toasts on house-baked

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to equally intricate meat courses. “It starts off fun and experimental, ends up very yummy—yummy-ish but still very thoughtful,” Scherer says. “It’s never like, here’s the umami bomb, good luck!”

Highlights might include a starter called Snowball, which tops Santa Barbara uni with apple, prosciutto, and bay-leaf ices; a risotto “nero” with sepia, black garlic, and licorice; slow-cooked duck with espresso blueberries, porcini jus, agrodolce puree, and borage; and

shokupan, Japan’s beloved breakfast loaf. Sit at the white marble bar or under umbrellas on the patio to enjoy bresaola and burrata salad with pickled fennel, or hyper-tender octopus with diced potato, charred scallions, and squid ink mayo. Star dessert: horchata tiramisu. 2145 Placentia Ave., 949-873-5853.

Beer and wine. $$ ARC The welcoming lair features a 15-seat bar overlooking the open kitchen and hardworking oven. It’s an audacious concept that lures a varied, loyal crowd.

Winners include roasted pork cheek, a gorgeous

a charred dessert of burned Cara Cara orange, espresso semifreddo, pistachio, and dark-chocolate crémeux and crunch. The menu is offered Thursday through Saturday and changes weekly. Reservations are taken with a week’s notice and cannot be canceled. $245 per person plus tax and gratuity; $150 without aperitif and wine pairings. 1200 Bison Ave., Newport Beach, 949-520-7191, bellobysandronardone.com —BENJAMIN EPSTEIN

wedge salad, and unique steak cuts. The pizza boutique serves posh pies topped with the likes of blue cheese, short rib, and basil, or roast duck, romesco, and olives. 3321 Hyland Ave., 949-500-5561. $$$ BOATHOUSE COLLECTIVE This quirky hang is a restaurant and private-event venue from local artist Clayton Peterson. A pastiche of upcycled shipping containers and post-andbeam construction, the space is also indoor-outdoor, with frequent live music by local and touring acts.

Mathieu Royer is executive chef, cooking a tight and ever-changing menu of eclectic fare that’s in sync

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE

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hef Zach Scherer shows off his pasta prowess at Bello Chef’s Table, offering a dozen or more highly creative courses at a special counter at Bello by Sandro Nardone. The counter seats up to six people and offers a direct view of the chef, who introduces each dish, and the modern Italian kitchen behind him. Imaginative dishes riff on ingredients from Chino Farms and other local producers; disparate lighter courses arc

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Find participating restaurants at

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APRIL 24 - 30

DINING GUIDE with this oddball shop. Don’t miss the savory burger.

Terrific craft cocktails ensure a mixed crowd. 1640 Pomona Ave., 949-646-3176. $$ BUTCHER’S HOUSE BRASSERIE Chef-owner Jeoffrey Offer—native of BEST NEW RESTAURANT Toulouse, France, and son of a 2022 butcher—brought his pandemic dream to life with this intimate spot focused on steaks, chops, and scratch sausages. Eight specialty sauces are house-made to suit meats and starters.

Wood-grilled options range from a mighty fine burger to a grand aged ribeye for two. The tidy bar boasts a kitchen view, and the patio offers a quiet alternative to the lively hubbub of a packed house.

Weekend brunch stars Offer’s distinct take on croque madame and steak and eggs. There’s also a succinct wine list. 3321 Hyland Ave., 714-714-0662. $$$ CASABL ANCA Owner Abder Amokrane refreshes this venue with a new identity, decor updates, and menu upgrades.

The vast and ancient cuisine of the Mahgreb is nicely executed here with a bit of Spain (paella) and France (shrimp Provençale) included. Bountiful platters of appetizers span regions and centuries of legendary cuisine. Seating options aplenty mean this is a good call for gatherings of many sizes. But even the five-course dinner for two is appealing and a steal.

1976 Newport Blvd., 949-423-7990. Dinner only. $$ THE COUNTRY CLUB The 175-seat “social club” is a massive reset of Pierce Street Annex, a long-notorious Costa Mesa watering hole. VIP treatment without a membership fee is the concept partners Mario Marovic and Andrew Gabriel are leveraging, complete with an adults-only setting with Gatsby-era glam. High-class cocktails are not fussy but lean on house-made syrups and mixers. 330 E. 17th St., 949-281-2582. $$ DESCANSO Descanso’s novel twist is the elevation of the taquero to center stage. Inspired by the dynamic street foods of Mexico City, owner Rob Arellano seats diners right at the plancha grill to watch their tacos sizzled with pizazz. Happy hour is particularly tempting if you can scoot in midweek, from 3 to 6 p.m. 1555 Adams Ave., 714-486-3798. $$ HABANA Flickering candles light the way through a highceilinged dining room, convivial bar, and lush patio at The Lab’s enduring Cuban hang for date nights and late nights. Most of the fare sticks solidly to classics, such as roast chicken and ropa vieja, but the appetizer side is loaded with winners. Updates include a lavish, all-you-can-eat brunch with live island music and an array of delicious baked goodies.

Intimate confines make reservations a smart move.

2930 Bristol St., 714-556-0176. See Irvine location. $$$ IZAKAYA HACHI A handsome, modern izakaya from the owners of Manpuku, Hachi is a boisterous, convivial gem.

The charcoal-grilled skewers shine, including the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Expect a little bit of everything here: gloriously marbled beef, fresh oysters, composed salads, fried chicken, and unique pressed sushi. 3033 Bristol St., 657-231-6566.

Dinner only. $ L A CAVE Retro-hip, if unintentionally so, Eastside Costa Mesa’s ’60s Rat Pack lair of a joint has changed little more than the prices over these many years.

Stiff drinks, thick steaks, and live music keep the 118 Ora nge C o ast • April 2022

Steak salad at Butcher’s House Brasserie

leather booths full, one floor below ground via a tired elevator. This is the place to feed your craving for Sinatra and Elvis tribute acts. 1695 Irvine Ave., 949-646-7944. $$$ MESA At this high-style hipster hang with a retractable roof, expect shareable dishes that play by the seasons and don’t shy away from intense flavors. Highlights include mussels sizzled in cast iron and fried cicchetti olives. An interesting, value-packed wine list beckons, as do inspired artisan cocktails. 725 Baker St., 714-557-6700. $$$ OLD VINE KITCHEN & BAR Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has upgraded with a larger space. Foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an Italian accent. Think barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting menu by night. Chef-owner Mark McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over, and he regularly leads culinary excursions to southern Italy. 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$ PITFIRE ARTISAN PIZZA The first O.C. shop from this thriving L.A.-based chain is not your nonna’s pizzeria. Upbeat and come-asyou-are casual, it’s a Cal-Ital original. A menu packed with classic and seasonal wood-fired pies, pastas, and salads has wide appeal, so this retooled Marie Callender’s stays packed with fans of all ages. Check out its backdoor speakeasy, Pie Society. 353 E. 17th St., 949-313-6333. $ PLUMS CAFE Fresh, high-quality cooking shaped by the Pacific Northwest lures locals to this strip-center lunch and weekend brunch favorite for creative eats such as smoked salmon hash and hazelnut flapjacks. 369 E. 17th St., 949-722-7586. Breakfast and lunch. $$ SOCIAL Social brought hipster dining to a scruffy westside strip mall, opening the area to considerable gentrification. The 118-seat retooled venue surprises with

sophisticated cooking and a nicely refreshed menu, especially now that executive chef Jeffrey Boullt is back and managing two scratch kitchens. Yes, a second Social is open in Huntington Beach. New signature items include lamb empanadas, wagyu beef tri-tip, and all-new craft cocktails. Service is variable.

512 W. 19th St., 949-642-2425. Weekend brunch. Second location (not reviewed) in Huntington Beach at 21214 Beach Blvd. $$ TACO MARÍA Every dish is a marvel of deeply considered modern Cal-Mex cuisine from chef-owner and O.C. native Carlos Salgado, who parked his esteemed food truck enterprise for this site. Even the stripped-down setting draws all attention to the food. Dinners are four-course prix fixe affairs, with thoughtful wine pairings. Lunch—when the tacos appear—is a more laid-back and affordable way to sample the refined slant that snagged Salgado a Michelin star and several James Beard nominations for chef awards. 3313 Hyland Ave., 714-538-8444. Beer and wine. $$$

CYPRESS CAFÉ HIRO Hiding out in Cypress, chef-owner Hiro Ohiwa caters to a devoted following who admires his formal French training and Japanese aesthetic. He applies it to a quirky lineup of seasonal specials where anything goes—from wild mushroom curry to osso bucco—all at prices too fair to be true. No wonder the place is always packed. 10509 Valley View St., 714-527-6090. Beer and wine. $

DANA POINT ENOSTEAK The coast’s most intimate salon for ultrapremium steaks is discreetly tucked just off the lobby at this esteemed resort. Beef—be it grass-fed, grain-fed, bone-in, or dry-aged—is the star of a pithy-if-pricey

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

menu that’s unabashedly loyal. Lavish compound butters to enjoy alongside steaks are a house signature. Polished service and often enchanting desserts. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949240-2000. $$$ GLASSPAR Glasspar launched as a classic seafooder, oyster bar, and tap room. Veteran top toque and local Rob Wilson helms his dream retool of the old Mahe site, supporting the community with ultra-fresh fare, delicious dishes, and his five-star service. A tight focus on top-shelf cocktails lures groups who want to gather for toasting. 24961 Dana Point Harbor Drive, 949-240-6243. $$$ JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN Big and welcoming, this 225-seat harborside venue is a utility player thanks to a broad menu of modern comfort fare. It’s a handy call for patio lunches, upbeat happy hours, hearty dinners, and bossy brunches. Locals swarm the upbeat space, noshing on mighty burgers, fried chicken, and prime rib.

Desserts are fantastically huge, if ordinary. 25001 Dana Point Harbor Drive, 949-388-8900. $$ RAYA Steve Wan is executive sous chef at this posh-butrelaxed dining room conceived by celeb chef Richard Sandoval. After the eye-popping bluff-top ocean view, Pan-Latin seafood dominates the experience.

But prepare to see many Asian touches on the modern menu, in creative dishes that masterfully bend

ethnic borders. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949-240-2000. $$$ SALT CREEK GRILLE Rambling Craftsman architecture and a lovely terraced patio supply a handsome backdrop for mesquite-grilled chophouse favorites and comfort classics. The roomy lounge does a vigorous business when live music lures coastal partiers too chic for beach dives and too dignified for dance clubs.

32802 Pacific Coast Highway, 949-661-7799. $$ WATERMAN’S HARBOR A beacon of new on Dana Point Harbor’s salt-worn embarcadero, this sleek seafooder offers two floors with scenic views of the breakwater action, including a big, breezy patio shaded from the sun’s rays on those high UV days. Fresh oysters are the star of happy hour at $10 for six. 34661 Golden Lantern St., 949-764-3474. $$$

FOUNTAIN VALLE Y AU L AC A miraculous menu of traditional Vietnamese and Chinese dishes, without meat or fish, comprises the self-described “humanese” cuisine at this New Agey bistro. A creamy fish-shaped loaf of tofu is unforgettable; so are the spring rolls. Even desserts are healthful, with fruity selections such as Rainbow in the Sky Pie. 16563 Brookhurst St., 714-418-0658. $$

Anaheim Packing House 440 S. Anaheim Blvd.

(714) 502-0255 urbanaanaheim.com

SkyDeck Del Mar 12841 El Camino Real (858) 925-7236 urbanadelmar.com

SUN - THURS 11:30AM - 10PM FRI - SAT 11:30AM - 12:00AM

UrbanaAnaheim.com

THE RECESS ROOM This city’s first gastropub exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt for gathering after their weekly basketball game. Food and booze enjoy equal amounts of love at this 148-seat venue—a cleverly retooled former Coco’s. Expect small-batch, offbeat brews and ace craft cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareable noshes. Think tender octopus with toasted quinoa for contrast, luscious pork cheeks confit, and lime-yuzu panna cotta. 18380 Brookhurst St., 714-377-0398. $$$

FULLERTON THE CELL AR Downtown Fullerton’s abiding choice for classy, oldschool French dining is a North County staple for romantic meals, thanks to an underground room that’s ornate, yet cozy. Expect swanky choices such as chateaubriand, and a fine dark chocolate souffle.

305 N. Harbor Blvd., 714-525-5682. $$$ EARLY BIRD Imaginative breakfasts washed down with in-season, single-origin coffee make this humble hang Fullerton’s sleeper for the foodie crowd. Look for duck confit hash, buckwheat flapjacks with ginger-citrus syrup, or trendy hits like buttermilk fried chicken and waffles, complete with house gravy.

1000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-529-4100. Breakfast and lunch. $$

DINING GUIDE

CHURCH’S NEW STATE | DICK CHURCH’S

HOPSCOTCH TAVERN The affable downtown watering hole is unabashedly keen on booze. Artisan cocktails that feature 140 whiskeys and a choice of 80 craft beers are the axis for a limited menu big on brawny proteins, savory carbs, and fried finger foods. The clever revamp of Fullerton’s 1918 Mission Revival-style Pacific Electric Railway Station feels accessible and low-key. 136 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-871-2222. $$ KHAN SAAB DESI CRAFT KITCHEN Born in the crucible of the pandemic, this halal bistro serves flavorful kebabs, curries, and street snacks alongside wood-fired wagyu steaks. Creator and executive chef Imran Ali Mookhi applies a Michelin mindset acquired after years in fine-dining kitchens.

120 Ora nge C oast • April 2022

Haven in Orange and Harley in Laguna Beach.

“This place was frozen in time.” So was the food—literally. When Pulizzi arrived, he says, “we’d been buying frozen product from Cisco, chicken-fried steak right off the truck. Now that steak is fresh, we know what it is, we pound it and bread it and fry it ourselves—we make everything we possibly can from scratch.” New on the menu are a breakfast

Khan Saab has the best-stocked alcohol-free bar in O.C. 229 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-853-1081. $$ MIIRCH SOCIAL This Indian mashup is a relaxed haunt that leans modern. The open kitchen serves traditional Indian cuisine tweaked with global ingredients or Indian flavors applied to comfort foods. Think butter chicken paneer poutine, nine-spice tandoori wings, and a fabulous lamb biryani. Don’t overlook the ingenious cocktails and mocktails. 138 W. Commonwealth Ave., 714-519-3501 $$ SUMMIT HOUSE Set high above Fullerton’s northern city limits, this imposing Tudor manor house offers a sparkling citylights view at night, though the attractive grounds

Old-Fashioned, wagyu roast beef French dip sandwich, Duroc pork chop, and apple hand pies. “You can find cheap food and cheap cocktails out there, or you can find expensive food and good cocktails,” Pulizzi says. “The concept here is dinner at an easy price point and craft cocktails. We’re bridging the gap.”

2698 Newport Blvd., Costa Mesa, 714-8844522, dickchurchs.com—BENJAMIN EPSTEIN

are pretty by day, too. The American menu offers few surprises; British-style prime rib and oak-grilled Skuna Bay salmon are reliable. Polished service brings back plenty of special-occasion diners. The cozy tavern bar is popular for light meals and happy hour. 2000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-671-4111. $$$

GARDEN GROVE NOVA KITCHEN & BAR This glamorous sleeper is a terrific dinner choice for distinctive fare that nods to Japan, Korea, and China. The handsome 35-seat lanai covered patio is beyond fine. Executive chef Abel Vargas oversees a sizeable menu that also includes

PHOTOGRAPH BY BENJAMIN EPSTEIN

D

ick Church’s marks its 50th anniversary with a new front patio designed for live music, a back patio with new dinner service, and a speakeasy called 1972.

Yet the diner’s look and vibe remain the same, right down to the orange leather booths. “It’s kind of a time trap,” says chef Landon Pulizzi, known for supporting roles at

showy sushi and top-shelf cocktails. Do consider the tuna tartare, corn tempura, or coriander-braised short rib. Genteel service. 12361 Chapman Ave., 714696-0888. $$$

HUNTINGTON BE ACH BLK EARTH SEA SPIRITS The tourist crowd is mixed with locals year-round at this second-floor spot with a magnetic beach view. Chef Jesus Munoz’s photo-ready dishes deliver the satisfaction that builds a fan base for Prime Akaushi steaks and huge Australian lobster tails at the expected steep prices. Attentive service always makes a fat tab go down easier. Garage parking is a huge plus during summers in Surf City. 300 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-960-0996. $$$ BLUEGOLD Pacific City’s glassy, glossy 230-seat venue delivers the paint-box sunsets sought by tourists, datenighters, and special-occasion splurgers looking to dine with a dazzling view. Alas, Blackhouse Hospitality’s first O.C. effort tackles a disparate menu of American fare, from steaks to steam kettles to Nea-style pizza—even oysters and charcuterie. Local vet Tin Vuong oversees a promising kitchen that is sometimes over its head. Solid bets include pizzas, lamb meatballs, and duck confit Milanese. 21016 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-0038. $$$ CUCINA ALESSÁ Despite the exit of its founding chef, this two-story trattoria maintains a solid following thanks to a

veteran crew at ease with the original menu and recipes for house-made pastas, feather-light pizzas, and breakfast omelets. 520 Main St., 714-969-2148.

See Newport Beach location. $$ DUKE’S Jammed on summer weekends, this pierside hangout is named for Hawaiian surfing legend Duke Kahanamoku. Grilled fish and steaks are fine for Saturday nights, but the kitchen excels at tasty fish tacos, macadamia nut hummus, and burgers with Kennebec chips. Monday’s happy hour is from 3 to 8 p.m. 317 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-6446. $$ FISH CAMP From Sam King of the King’s Fish House fleet comes this overtly dressed-down seafood cantina at the northern edge of coastal O.C. Order the day’s catch from the counter and await delivery of straightforward classics such as pristine oysters, ahi poke, Idaho trout, and crab galore. Sandwiches, skewers, and worthy clam chowders also recommended.

16600 Pacific Coast Highway, 562-592-2267. $$ LSXO Step back in time to colonial Vietnam at this vest-pocket hideaway with only 28 seats.

Chef-owner Tin Vuong amplifies his successful L.A. Little Sister act with a sultry setting (tucked inside of huge Bluegold) and uncompromising Viet fare inspired by his roots and frequent travels to South Vietnam. Nifty craft cocktails and luxe dishes such as salt and pepper lobster make a good date night, but we also like the street-style noshes such as prawn crepes and lemongrass skewers. Fair warn-

ing: The uncensored rap soundtrack is not for all ears. 21016 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-0083. $$ RED TABLE The “red” in Red Table, Huntington Harbour mall’s neighborhood tavern, stands for “relax, eat, drink.”

The creative menu of American eats is big on highcarb snacks, savory share plates, and strapping proteins that feel right in a welcoming setting accented with quirky design elements and a red communal table. 16821 Algonquin St., 714-846-4700. Beer and wine. $$ SESSIONS Surf City is the ideal spot for the second “West Coast deli,” this time across from the sand. Terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two are gourmet creations, meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. From-scratch soups, sides, and dressings. A surfer ethos extends to hearty breakfasts featuring Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 414 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-594-3899. Beer and wine. See Irvine and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $ WATERTABLE Here’s a rare bird, a hotel restaurant in a tourist resort that the locals love for lots of reasons. Progressive takes on global dishes, tiptop craft cocktails, copious happy hours, and the steady hand of longtime Chef Manfred Lassahn keep this venue on point.

We return just for the white cheddar and thyme biscuits with seasonal butter. The new morning lineup

Tableau KITCHEN AND BAR

PHOTOGRAPH BY BENJAMIN EPSTEIN

LOCATED: SOUTH COAST PLAZA 3333 BEAR ST SUITE 119 COSTA MESA , CA 92626 OPEN 8 AM - 8 PM DAILY CONTACT US: PH: 714.872.8054 IG: @TABLEAUKITCHENANDBAR FB: TABLEAU KITCHEN AND BAR WWW.TABLEAUKITCHENANDBAR.COM

DINING GUIDE of health-first bowls, smoothies, and toasts caters to beach runners. Hyatt Regency, 21500 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-845-4776. $$$

IRVINE ANDREI’S CONSCIOUS CUISINE & COCKTAILS Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro Gomez’s menu retains favorites such as the beef spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. $$ BISTANGO A longtime airport-area mainstay, Bistango has remained surprisingly contemporary, with creative dishes such as sweet, soulful garlic soup, and black truffle ravioli. It’s also a classy venue for live music, and its rotating art collection adds to the air of urban sophistication. 19100 Von Karman Ave., 949-752-5222. $$$ CHA CHA’S L ATIN KITCHEN This addition to the restaurant family owned by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni is an inviting casa with a menu of modern Mexican fare boosted by commendable new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole to name a few. The indoor-meets-outdoor patio by designer Thomas Schoos is a fine upgrade of the Brea flagship. Weekly specials add value and excitement. Impressive tequila menu. 13126 Jamboree Road, 714-408-7819. See Brea location. $$ CUCINA ENOTECA This 285-seat operation from San Diego’s Urban Kitchen Group offers two sprawling patios and a huge, lively dining room with bar and wine minimarket, and the scene oozes chic with scads of handmade furnishings for sale. The Cal-Ital menu is equally large and inventive, from spreads in Mason jars and salumi platters to house-made pastas. Particularly good for large parties. 532 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-861-2222. See Newport Beach location. $$ HABANA We waited 22 years for this glamorous Habana sibling, and it was worth it—a sprawling 300-seat compound that co-opts Cuba’s frozen-in-time splendor.

A roomy patio open to the sky is made intimate by high walls and lots of beautiful props and vignettes, with alcoves dedicated to house pastries and coffees. Despite the impressive scale, the menu hews tightly to the focused offerings at its Costa Mesa original. 708 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-419-0100.

See Costa Mesa location. $$$ JA JIAOZI It’s all about handmade dumplings here. They grace every table, anchoring meals rounded out with other hot and cold dishes. First-timers, ask your able server for help. Top picks include steamed Flaming Hot and boiled Signature jiaozi, along with refreshing tofu-skin salad. Top-notch shrimp fried rice is a winner, too. Watch the masters at work from a five-seat bar. 13776 Jamboree Road, Irvine, 714-786-8999. $$ JAVIER’S CANTINA & GRILL Sipping margaritas made with premium tequilas and fresh lime juice, and dining on steaks or sea122 Ora nge C oast • April 2022

Gracies Creek beef tortellini at Porch & Swing

food amid the glamorous resort-style decor is like a little trip to Baja. You’ll find combos, salsa with a kick, and creamy guacamole, but go for the signature spinach enchiladas in an emerald-green pasilla sauce. The Irvine Spectrum location is buzzy and busy. 536 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-872-2101. See Newport Coast location. $$ LITTLE SISTER This Irvine Spectrum spot is an XXL bistro to older sister shop LSXO. Chef-partner Tim Vuong musters a team that pulls off a bigger menu, bigger digs, and a bigger profile with ease. Find proven faves—the overstuffed Viet crepe and the Shaky Shaky Beef— plus new lunch porridges and bánh mís streaming out of the kitchen to a bustling dining room. Vintage rap tracks and a crackerjack bar keep the vibe lively. 896 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-800-8798. $$$ MEIZHOU DONGPO Good seating, engaged service, and touches of elegance elevate this classy Sichuan dining room, a retool of a 6,000-square-foot Marie Callender’s in bustling Culver Plaza. Access is easy, and plentiful parking is free. Beyond that, it’s all about the Beijing-style roast duck (whole, $77; half, $40), meticulously sliced into petals of tender meat crowned with crackling amber skin, for rolling into thin crepes.

Weeks of aging, drying, and lacquering coax out heady flavors. Spicy values include dan dan noodles and country-style sliced pork. 15363 Culver Drive, 949-433-5686. Beer and wine. $$$ NORTH ITALIA Rich, intense flavors, discerning techniques, and a modern mindset make North Italia, from Fox Restaurant Concepts, a chain that easily beats some indies out there. Sunny by day and stylish at night, the voluminous room’s high ceiling and open plan manages to feel more intimate than its 280- to 300seat capacity, though it’s perpetually packed. Aim for the artisan-style pizzas, fresh house-made pastas, short rib with polenta, farm salad, and bombolini dessert. 2957 Michelson Drive, 949-629-7060. $$

PAUL MARTIN’S AMERICAN GRILL A major player at the Spectrum in Irvine, this inviting 295-seat venue offers a plain-spoken, singlepage carte of highly seasonal American dishes. 534 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-453-1144. $$ PORCH & SWING This delightful indie serves a “taste BEST NEW RESTAURANT of Charleston” starring original riffs 2021 on American classics and cocktails

by Andrew Parish. Must-try dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too. The patio is lovely. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$ PUESTO San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options for O.C. fans. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Always ask about the monthly taco special. The Park Place center location’s indoor-meets-outdoor venue is intimate and color-splashed. Park Place, 3311 Michelson Drive, 949-608-7272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577 Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. $$ ROBATA WASA From the wizards behind popular Wasa sushi comes this sleek, authentic izakaya at the Spectrum, ideal for noshing Japanese comfort nibbles at lunch or after a movie, or tossing back sakes and brews. 926 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-536-5064. $$ RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE Sizzling Prime steaks, wet-aged from 24 to 28 days, are served topped with big pats of butter and chopped parsley. Founder Ruth Fertel grew up in New Orleans so there are crab cakes, Gulf shrimp, and sweet potato casserole. 2961 Michelson Drive, 949-252-8848. See Anaheim location. $$$ SESSIONS No. 3 is a charm for O.C.’s indie chainlet of “West Coast” delis. Expect terrific sandwiches that eat like

photographs by E M I LY J . D AV I S

a meal for two, gourmet creations that are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. Fromscratch soups, sides, and dressings. A beguiling lakeside setting beckons for lazy breakfasts featuring Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 4736 Barranca Parkway, 949-333-3949. Beer and wine. See Huntington Beach and Newport Beach locations.

Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $ TACO ROSA With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$ TWO LEFT FORKS This inland sibling has the strong appeal of its now-closed original Dana Point location, except the coastal site has been swapped for a roomier space with easy parking, as well as lunch and weekend brunch service. Come here for bananas Foster pancakes or an open-face sandwich with burrata, prosciutto, avocado, and eggs your way. Popular for happy hour. 6511 Quail Hill Parkway, 949-3876700. $$$

LAGUNA BE ACH ALESSÁ BY CHEF PIROZZI This village center magnet for robust Italian fare by chef-owner Alessandro Pirozzi boasts a bar featuring primo versions of burrata, scamorza, and other cheese delights, as well as elite cured meats from Italy and up-and-coming domestic producers, all hand-sliced to order. 234 Forest Ave., 949497-8222. $$ BROADWAY BY AMAR SANTANA Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped Charlie Palmer to create this sexy urban bistro. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar. Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine list includes many notable half-bottles. 328 Glenneyre St., 949-715-8234. $$$ BRUSSELS BISTRO Loud and lively, this bistro brings a bit of Belgium to Orange County, with traditional beers on tap and an authentic menu. Stick with the tasty burger on rustic bread, or the mussels, served with the requisite frites. 222 Forest Ave., 949-376-7955. $$ CARMELITA’S KITCHEN DE MEXICO This is the boutique version of Rancho Santa Margarita’s sprawling shop, but both offer top-notch Cal-Mex fare. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, and Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Don’t miss costillitas—baby back ribs topped with fried onions. Outstanding margaritas.

Warm, spiffy service. 217 Broadway St., 949-715-7829.

See Rancho Santa Margarita location. $$ COYOTE GRILL A great scenic stop on your drive down Coast Highway, Coyote Grill is a Mexican-American diner with a million-dollar view. For brunch, choose from breakfast burritos, chilaquiles, and huevos rancheros. Dinners range from fried chicken to lobster tacos and tamales. The food is serviceable, but the experi-

Three-chocolate parfait at The Drake

ence is like a minivacation. 31621 Coast Highway, 949-499-4033. $$ THE DRAKE The grown-ups sipping cocktails are here for a full serving of primo live music paired with the cuisine of Paul Gstrein (ex of Bistango and Bayside). Laguna’s own Alec Glasser prevails in creating a dashing joint where both the musicians and the kitchen have serious chops. Diners dig into Euro-inflected dishes (try the lamb lollipops, the Alpine melt, the chile-lime swordfish).

Musicians dig the highbrow sound system, and the room generates a superlative groove. 2894 S. Coast Highway, 949-376-1000. $$$ DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble.

Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Brunch items and craft cocktails also are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949-715-7700. $$ HARLEY L AGUNA BEACH Refreshed to a comfy sheen, this landmark twostory tavern is unfussy and welcoming with vintage family photos on the wall, some featuring the chef’s Grandpa Harley. As ever, chef-owner Greg Daniels coaxes savoriness from goods sourced from small producers such as Gonestraw Farms in Riverside.

Their eggs with bright-orange yolks become soft, jammy “deviled” eggs. Gonestraw chicken also stars in a lovely potpie with celery root, heirloom carrots, and the warm aura of curry. For dessert, downhome pecan pie and ice cream made with honey from Orange Park Acres’ own Backyard Bees. 370 Glenneyre St., 949-715-1530. Dinner only. $$$ L AS BRISAS Equal parts history, view, and food, Las Brisas (The Breezes) endures as a coastal landmark locals can’t resist for showing off the best view in Laguna Beach.

Whether it’s for margaritas at sunset or a leisurely

Sunday brunch, the veteran dining room team generally handles high-volume crowds with poise.

Breakfast and even Sunday brunch are good values. The active patio bar fills to capacity in summer.

361 Cliff Drive, 949-497-5434. Reservations recommended. $$$ THE LOFT Part of the fun of dining at the posh Montage Laguna Beach is a spectacular ocean view, and this restful aerie delivers that view with style. The welledited menu features refined fare made from prime, seasonal goods with coastal flavors. Always leave room for nibbles from the inimitable cheese gallery boasting the area’s best selection of elite cheeses with from-scratch condiments. 30801 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-6420. $$$ LUMBERYARD Veteran local restaurateur Cary Redfearn brought new life to this downtown landmark with a welcoming bar and comfort classics such as meatloaf and chicken potpie that lure tourists and villagers alike. Look for a solid happy hour. 384 Forest Ave., 949-715-3900. $$ MOZAMBIQUE The eclectic cuisine shows influences of South Africa.

Peri-peri prawns, curries, and grilled meats are best bets. The wine list includes interesting selections from South Africa and New Zealand. 1740 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-7777. $$$ NEAPOLITAN PIZZERIA & BIRRERIA This spot is all about pizza worship and emphatically Italian, right down to the Molino San Felice flour and the glossy red Stefano Ferrara wood-fire oven imported from Italy. These pies—bubbling hot in the middle with a puffy, spotted ring of crust— require a knife and fork. Don’t ignore the cadre of small plates that includes a terrific chopped salad and dandy meatballs the size of softballs. 31542 S. Coast Highway, 949-499-4531. Beer and wine. $$ NICK’S Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups April 2022 • Or a nge Coast 123

DINING GUIDE who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-3768595. See San Clemente location. $$ OLIVER’S OSTERIA Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wondrous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel. Tight quarters make dining noisy when the room is full. And Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon Road, 949-715-0261. $$$ SAPPHIRE CELL AR CRAFT COOK The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location.

Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$ SEL ANNE STEAK TAVERN Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this polished and popular steak joint on a venerated stretch of Coast Highway.

Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef Vince Terusa’s menu designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and fan base. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, the superlative burger, and world-class people watching. 1464 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. $$$ SPL ASHES RESTAURANT Easily one of our coast’s top resort options for a surf’s-edge indulgence, this contemporary dining room and lounge are famed for pricey romantic meals and sunset drinks. Ron Fougeray is executive chef. A stunning Pacific view dazzles, as does Fougeray’s five-star résumé that includes a James Beard nomination. Expect seasonal, coastal fare. Ask for lower-level patio seating and you might feel spray off the crashing waves. Surf & Sand Resort, 1555 S. Coast Highway, 888-281-3502. $$$ STARFISH Locals and escaped Montage resort guests slip in for seaside cuisine with an Asian inflection at this Coast Highway venue. The dusky digs and sexy ’tude make it a good stop for appetizers and craft cocktails. Ample free parking is a plus. 30832 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-9200. $$$ SUEÑOS This retooled historic venue is forging a contemporary Latin approach that blends the foodways of Mexico with those of Peru, Chile, Argentina, and Puerto Rico. Mexico City-born Alan Sanz brings a worldly résumé to his executive chef post with polished fusion dishes including birria arepas, blackberry mole duck, epazote pesto pasta, and house-made desserts. Patio seating is popular, but the bar also beckons for a fine Cuban sandwich.

222 Ocean Ave., 949-715-8155 Closed Sundays and Mondays. $$$ 124 Ora nge C oast • April 2022

Blackberry mole duck at Sueños

230 FOREST AVENUE Lagunatics and sightseers mingle at this lively openair cafe, where the martinis are as popular as the modern California cuisine. Noisy, cramped quarters are overlooked once the waiter brings your day boat scallops. Primo people-watching from the tables fronting one of the village’s busiest sidewalks. 230 Forest Ave., 949-494-2545. $$$

LAGUNA HILLS IRONWOOD The savvy team behind Vine in San Clemente notches another hit with this welcoming dinner house in a zone with scant options. Executive chef Jared Cook’s modern, seasonal menu roams from delicate to hearty, but all dishes showcase his knack for upping the crave factor. Examples: chicken schnitzel with mushrooms, Zinfandelbraised lamb shank with mint yogurt. Terrific craft cocktails shift with the seasons. On-point service from a gracious crew. 25250 La Paz Road, 949-4468772. Dinner only. $$$

LAGUNA NIGUEL BOTTEGA ANGELINA This chic Italian is a grand showpiece by NEW the team behind Pizzeria Angelina. Housemade pastas, roasted meats, and pizzas share a succinct menu, supported by sophisticated cocktails from an imposing marble bar. Vast patio with dazzling views. A piccolo store sells pantry goods and gelatos. 32441 Golden Lantern, 949-542-8220. $$$ CALO KITCHEN + TEQUIL A Chic and breezy as a Baja resort, this sprawling spot has its act together, luring local crowds for upscale Mexican classics. An unending flow of worthy margaritas keeps the white marble bar humming while the kitchen churns out well-executed shrimp ceviche, carnitas, combo plates, and short rib enchi-

ladas. Huge portions, sharp service, and modern digs seal the deal. Scores of sipping tequilas delight agave fans. 28141 Crown Valley Parkway, 949-4097380. $$$ HENDRIX Teeming with natural light and coastal breezes, Hendrix swaggers into Laguna Niguel with a place that promises something for everyone in this optionlean suburb. It’s from the group behind Laguna Beach’s The Deck and Driftwood Kitchen, and partner Austrian-born Rainer Schwarz is executive chef.

A showpiece rotisserie roasts plump chickens, porchetta, and lamb while basting potatoes in the catch bin with juices from the meats. Irresistible small plates include prosciutto fritters, Brussels sprouts with marcona almonds, and chicken-fontina flatbread. 32431 Golden Lantern, 949-248-1912. $$

LA HABRA EL CHOLO It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with olives and a fried egg.

Green corn tamales (available seasonally) have achieved cult status. This location oozes a family vibe. 840 E. Whittier Blvd., 562-691-4618. See Anaheim Hills and Corona del Mar locations. $

LAKE FOREST BRÜ GRILL & MARKET Ambitious, with 245 seats, this suburban indie goes all-in for craft and microbrews, memorable cocktails, and pub food: a killer artisan sausage platter, Belgian-style mussels, and top-tier charcuterie.

Entrees can be hit or miss, though the bone-in pork chop is a triumph. Drinks and brews (35 on tap) outshine the wine list. The on-site market retails wine, cheese, and other menu items. 23730 El Toro Road, 949-305-5757. $$

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

LOS ALAMITOS SHENANDOAH AT THE ARBOR American regional comfort food with a Southern appeal is reason to visit this sweet family-owned cottage with lovely, tree-canopied garden seating in back. This cozy spot satisfies when the craving calls for Granny’s fried chicken, or country-fried pork chops. Commendable gumbo and fried green tomatoes, too. 10631 Los Alamitos Blvd., 562-4311990. Beer and wine. $$

MISSION VIEJO DUBLIN 4 GASTROPUB Publicans Darren and Jean Coyle welcome a varied crowd to this chipper modern pub, designed to rival Dublin’s finest. Executive chef David Shofner applies fine-dining cred and scratch cooking to a menu of new and old-school fare that sparkles. Don’t-miss items include premium cottage pies, a killer lamb burger, and anything with house-cured meats. Upscale pricing and dapper surroundings prove this is not your frat brother’s Irish pub. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. $$$ WINEWORKS FOR EVERYONE This near-hidden pocket bistro is a top choice for wine-centric cuisine in South County. A retooled menu by chef David Shofner, who also helms the kitchen at Dublin 4 next door, brims with seasonal California fare that flatters a wine list of West Coast and international bottles. Must-haves include sau-

sage flatbread, and a killer cheese plate. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. Beer and wine. $$$

NE W P ORT BE AC H A&O KITCHEN + BAR A serious reboot of this fabled lounge—formerly Duke’s—transforms this waterside venue into a gastropub with a newly youthful vibe. Expect all the usual share plates: battered fries, shishito peppers, bacon-wrapped dates, plus several hearty plates including a worthy Kobe burger with bacon mayo on a cheddar-bacon bun. Bold, neonautical decor plays off the “anchors and oceans” theme and brings the bay view to life. The water’s-edge patio is inviting for sunset drinks or gathering ’round the fire pit. Balboa Bay Resort, 1221 W. Coast Highway, 949-630-4285. $$ A RESTAURANT This sexy old-school hangout rarely wants for business, thanks to the retooling of American classics made with hard-to-find premium goods. The stellar burger is not on the menu or always available, but go ahead and ask. At A Market next door, the inimitable Shelly Register oversees gourmet sandwiches and to-go goodies. 3334 W. Coast Highway, 949-650-6505. Dinner only. $$$ BACK BAY BISTRO Though you won’t see ocean waves, waterfront seating on the quiet bay abounds at this relaxed venue inside the Newport Dunes Resort. A broad Euro-Cal menu keeps the resort crowd happy, while improved wines and slick details such as a retract-

ing roof and valet parking lure the locals. 1131 Back Bay Drive, 949-999-3170. $$$ BAYSIDE Classy Bayside remains a go-to choice on many fronts. Nightly happy hour stars a winning small-plates menu that keeps the bar hopping.

Rotating artwork keeps the dining room ever fresh for relaxed meals of debonair American fare. Long favored by the coastal set for jazzy brunches, insiders stop in Friday night for a legendary jam session in the bar. Prix fixe menus are a strength here. 900 Bayside Drive, 949-721-1222. $$$ BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE Previously of upmarket pizzeria Angelina’s, Sandro Nardone flies solo with this molto moderno Italiano overhaul of a sprawling spot.

Nardone’s style is urbane, so expect no lasagna here. Instead, look for distinctive creations such as mortadella mousse cannoli with liquid pineapple mustard. Crispy octopus with Calabrian vinaigrette is another crowd favorite. Cocktails show imagination, and the wine list has some rare gems. Coming soon, Nardone’s take on hip patio brunching. 1200 Bison Ave., 949-520-7191. $$$ BLUEWATER GRILL SEAFOOD RESTAURANT Classic rich chowder, grilled trout, and fried clams share the daily menu with modern dishes such as zesty cioppino and mahi-mahi sliders with jalapeno aioli. A seasoned crew smoothly shifts from icy platters of just-shucked oysters, to salt and pepper shrimp. The menu boasts seasonal specials as well.

630 Lido Park Drive, 949-675-3474. $$

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April 2022 • Or a nge Coast 125

DINING GUIDE BOUILLON Indefatigable operator Laurent Vrigand, the founder of six Moulin cafes, debuts his first full-service restaurant—an homage to Paris’ Bouillon Chartier, his childhood favorite. Expect one all-day menu of nostalgic fare at painless prices, no substitutions, no reservations, and snappy service. Standouts include tian Provençal, beef bourguignon, and profiteroles. 1000 N. Bristol, 949-418-9549. $$ CANALETTO From the cognoscenti of Il Fornaio, this is the perfect SoCal vision of an upscale Italian trattoria. The big draws are the fresh-baked breads, pizzas, pastas, and risotto dishes. Don’t miss the bigoli alla Padovana with big strands of perciatelli and the bold flavors of house-made sausage mingled with porcini mushrooms. 545 Newport Center Drive, 949-640-0900. $$ THE CANNERY The 1921 landmark structure has dazzled diners for more than 50 years with its waterfront site, pristine seafood, and top chops. Executive chef Marcus Hagan keeps the menu relevant by adding new dishes, say baked Peruvian scallops, to classics such as the trusted lobster roll. Also check out The Snug, a cozy bar downstairs, carved from the main dining room. Dockside dining offered for boaters. 3010 Lafayette Road, 949-566-0060. $$$ CUCINA ALESSÁ Despite the exit of its founding chef, this trattoria maintains a solid following thanks to a veteran crew at ease with the original menu and recipes for house-made pastas, feather-light pizzas, and breakfast omelets. 6700 W. Coast Highway, 949-645-2148.

See Huntington Beach location. $$ CUCINA ENOTECA Chef de cuisine Cesar Sarmiento helms the busy scratch kitchen of this Fashion Island sibling. The sprawling, lively space with its alluring garden room, hip cocktails, and fun wines supports inventive takes on classic pastas, cured meats, and creative breads. Like the Irvine location, this venue offers a retail wine boutique and lots of quirky-chic furnishings for sale. Daily happy hour is a deal for tony Fashion Island. 951 Newport Center Drive, 949-7061416. See Irvine location. $$ EDDIE V’S WILDFISH Wildfish lures a loyal following. The finely calibrated menu of pristine seafood and first-class steaks keeps the glossy room and fireplace patio hopping, especially for nightly happy hour deals when upscale locals crowd the sleek bar. Urbane service.

Strong wine list. 1370 Bison Ave., 949-720-9925. $$$ FABLE & SPIRIT From the family behind Dublin 4 BEST NEW RESTAURANT comes this lush addition to the area 2020 across from Lido Marina Village. But don’t assume this is an Irish pub that mimics the other. This plush room features inventive fare that’s a mashup of American and Irish. Here you start with Hares Looking at You, a cocktail starring Wheatley vodka and carrot juice, move on to the refined beet agnolotti with chèvre foam, or share a woodfired duck confit pizetta. Yes, the fish and chips are superior, but so is the rabbit fricassee. 3441 Via Lido, 949-409-9913. $$$ FIG & OLIVE Soak up the luxury of Cannes at Fashion Island’s stylish “import” that brims with beautiful people.

Ingredient-driven dishes, made with local and seasonal fare and a global palette of olive oils, are more

126 Ora nge C oast • April 2022

Sugar snap peas with yogurt, grapefruit, burrata, and almonds at Fable & Spirit

classic French-Mediterranean than trailblazing.

Stunning dining rooms lend even business lunches a leisurely feel. Best dishes include chicken tagine with figs and olives, plus the creative, costly cocktails. 151 Newport Center Drive, 949-877-3005. $$$ FLEMING’S PRIME STEAKHOUSE & WINE BAR Dry-aged steaks star at this red meat specialist, supported by a luxe array of seafood starters. A la carte lunch options include a filet mignon wedge salad. The sensational happy hour is one of Fashion Island’s most popular. Another house signature: an all-star wine list with more than 100 choices by the glass. 455 Newport Center Drive, 949-720-9633. $$$ GULFSTREAM Heavenly biscuits, baked to order, and pristine oysters, shucked to order (in season), are two reasons to visit this popular bar and restaurant. The sand-floor patio with glowing fire pit attracts singles, while the ocean-fresh fare draws foodies. If freshly caught seafood doesn’t appeal, there are terrestrial dishes such as mustard barbecue beef ribs. 850 Avocado Ave., 949-718-0188. $$$ HARBORSIDE RESTAURANT One of O.C.’s most iconic landmarks, the 1906 Balboa Pavilion still lures visitors to its harbor view, and celebrants to its sweeping ballroom for special events and weddings galore. Expect a safe menu of all-American classics. Locals love that happy hour starts at 11:30 a.m. 400 Main St., 949-673-4633. $$ LIDO BOTTLE WORKS This handsome waterfront venue sounds like a liquor store, but it’s a sleeper of a full-service restaurant hiding in the swanky Lido Marina Village development. Hyper-seasonal and prettily plated, notable creations include Dory Fleet catches of the day, opulent Iberico secreto pork, a solid burger, and one glorious chocolate mousse. 3408 Via Oporto, 949-529-2784. $$

MALIBU FARM LIDO Malibu farm girl and native Swede Helene Henderson adds another ocean-air venue for colorful organic fare. The all-day menu boasts fat burritos, fruit-covered grain, or yogurt bowls and savory options that include the bestseller, an outstanding fried egg sandwich with great bacon and Havarti on country toast with lemon aioli. Multigrain pancakes are worthy, but Swedish mini pancakes with berries and cream are stupendous. 3420 Via Oporto, 949-791-2096. $$ MOULIN Moulin is the passion project of Paris native Laurent Vrignaud. After 30 years in the action-sports industry, he lives his longtime dream of serving bistro classics, selling oven-fresh baguettes and grab-and-go dishes, and peddling wines and other French pantry items. The unfussy bistro and patio evoke Paris at every turn. It’s O.C.’s gathering spot for expats and Francophiles. 1000 Bristol St. North, 949474-0920. Locations (not reviewed) in Costa Mesa, Dana Point, Laguna Beach, and San Clemente. $$ OLEA CELL AR CRAFT COOK Eastside’s dapper dinner house is the latest offering from the polished crew behind sister restaurants Ironwood and Vine, a homegrown hospitality group. Fans of chef Jared Cook will recognize some familiar dishes from his sibling shops, but there are exclusives here, too. We’re mad for the opulent duck liver terrine with bacon and bourbon, and those fine oysters baked with blue crab in tarragon butter. Add top-notch cocktails and 50 notable wines by the glass. 2001 Westcliff Drive, 949-2876807. Dinner only. $$$ PESCADOU BISTRO After three decades at its vintage location, this vestpocket bistro owned by Jacques and Olga de Quillien is as cozy and classically French as ever. The blackboard $40 prix fixe rules supreme, but you can also indulge in classics that would thrill Julia Child: braised rabbit, duck confit with frites, and luscious ratatouille. Seasoned servers keep the regulars

photographs by E M I LY J . D AV I S

content, so it’s no wonder that diners quietly keep this gem their secret. 3325 Newport Blvd., 949-6756990. Dinner only. $$ PIZZERIA MOZZA This is the O.C. outpost of the rustic, reverent Italian cuisine brought so smashingly to L.A. in 2006 by luminaries Mario Batali, Nancy Silverton, and Joe Bastianich. Picture-perfect pizzas with heady toppings, delightful antipasti, comforting al forno dishes, and A+ desserts attract eager crowds to this simple, boxy space. Local beers, Italian wines, and a full bar.

Don’t miss the cauliflower fritti, caprese salad, and any pizza with pork. Butterscotch budino is a gold rush, too. 800 W. Coast Highway, 949-945-1126. $$$ RED O Chicago’s Rick Bayless expands his empire by attaching his brand and recipes to this grand and handsome Fashion Island venue. Alas, the pricey fare doesn’t achieve the culinary distinction we expect from noted chef. Service is gracious and the yellowtail aguachile is lovely, but in a county brimming with excellent Mexican options, this 250-seater feels designed for deep-pocketed tourists. 143 Newport Center Drive, 949-718-0300. $$$ ROYAL HEN This Balboa Island venue is a petite, urbane gastropub too small and busy to take reservations. The polished makeover suits the taut menu of dinner fare that includes a mean burger and signature chicken pie that sells out nightly. As ever, parking is vexing, so consider getting dropped off. 311 Marine Ave., 949-873-5603. Beer and wine. $$$ SABATINO’S LIDO SHIPYARD SAUSAGE CO. Peter Sabatino used to deliver his mom’s sausages door to door in Chicago. Now customers come to him in Newport Beach, where he sells 300 to 400 pounds a day from his restaurant. The old-school Italian menu and comfy patio make it a relaxing spot for first dates or family dinners of pastas, seafood, and, of course, dishes loaded with his secretrecipe sausages. 251 Shipyard Way, 949-723-0621.

Beer and wine. $$ SESSIONS This busy “West Coast deli” on the peninsula crafts terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two.

Gourmet creations with kooky names are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. A surfer vibe extends to hearty breakfasts at 7 a.m. daily, starring Golden State Coffee Roaster coffee. 2823 Newport Blvd., 949-220-9001. Beer and wine. See Huntington Beach and Irvine locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $ SHOREBIRD Hidden inside the Vue Newport enclave, Shorebird is invisible until you enter the airy split-level space dominated by its waterfront view. Expect contemporary American fare plus familiar side detours for sushi and tacos. Best bets include Duroc pork chop, lump crab cakes, avocado fries. 2220 Newport Blvd., 949-287-6627. $$$ SOL COCINA Fresh, spunky flavors of Mexico’s Baja Peninsula lure the coastal crowd to this bayside cantina. A kickin’ bar with crackling fireplace serves tasty cocktails, many made from scores of artisan tequilas. 251 E. Coast Highway, 949-675-9800. $$$

Maryland lump crab cakes at Shorebird

SUSHI ROKU The sixth location of this Cal-Japanese concept makes a huge impression with striking decor and vibrant cuisine. If the dining room’s busier than the sushi bar, blame the thoughtfully designed and executed menu, notably dishes such as fluke kumquat sashimi, blue crab tartare, Prime ribeye Japonais, and the deconstructed s’mores. The creative sushi deserves a night all its own, and the bar and patio offer their own vibes. Look for scores of noodles, salads, and bento boxes at lunch, and sakes. 327 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-3622. $$$ TACO ROSA With agave-sweetened margaritas and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. 2632 San Miguel Road, 949720-0980. See Irvine location. $$ TAVERN HOUSE KITCHEN + BAR David Wilhelm, the county’s restaurant laureate, returns to Newport Beach with this fetching and welcome rehab of a waterside venue. Menus read like a playlist of Wilhelm’s champion recipes tweaked for 2020. Standout new dishes for dinner and weekend brunch include red snapper Veracruzana, Buddha bowls, sirloin meatballs, and fried chicken with malted waffles. Look for a natty presunset happy hour on weekdays. 333 Bayside Drive, 949-673-8464. $$ TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT, BAR & STORE This local favorite strives to remain relevant. The coastal cuisine is well-executed, from a menu that keeps up with dishes such as seared scallop sliders, za’atar-crusted ahi tuna with Beluga lentils, and filet mignon flatbread. As always, drinks are inviting with a tropical theme; the mai tai is the best around. A super-sleek new patio is lighter, brighter, and bigger. This is a great place to meet for happy hour. 854 Avocado Ave., 949-760-8686. $$

TRUE FOOD KITCHEN Dr. Andrew Weil’s anti-inflammatory food pyramid is translated into a globally varied parade of healthful starters, salads, sandwiches, and entrees, with intriguing cocktails for good measure. Best (and quieter) seats are on the sleek, canopied patio with its lush living wall. 451 Newport Center Drive, 949-644-2400. $$ THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR The snazzy venue overlooks the yacht and Duffy boat traffic in Newport Harbor, flaunting its waterfront charms with 180-degree views from two floors plus a cigar patio. The space sizzles with bonhomie— and diners who love their surf, turf, wine, and VIP treatment. Expect cosseting service from partners JC Clow, William Lewis, and executive chef Yvon Goetz.

Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 3131 W. Coast Highway, 949-999-6622. See Tustin location. $$$

NE WPORT COAST THE BEACHCOMBER The surf’s-edge view might be better than the food, but the drinks and eats are good enough to keep this iconic spot packed with beachgoers, especially in summer. Stick with basics such as grilled artichokes, lobster club, and stuffed salmon. Executive chef Carlos Olivera oversees the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus that change slightly each season. 15 Crystal Cove, 949-376-6900. $$$ BLUEFIN Adroit chef Takashi Abe applies his considerable talents to pristine ingredients he fashions into gorgeous works of edible Japanese art. His omakase is transcendent (and cheaper at lunch). The setting is suitably spare and visually soothing. Superior sake selection. 7952 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 949-715-7373. $$$

April 2022 • Or a nge Coast 127

DINING GUIDE JAVIER’S CANTINA & GRILL Sipping margaritas made with premium tequilas and fresh lime juice, and dining on steaks or seafood amid the resort-style decor is like a little trip to Baja. You’ll find combos, salsa with a kick, and creamy guacamole, but go for the signature spinach enchiladas in an emerald-green pasilla sauce.

This location has dreamy views of the Pacific. 7832 E. Coast Highway, 949-494-1239. See Irvine location. $$ MARCHÉ MODERNE The finest French bistro south of BEST NEW RESTAURANT Beverly Hills is reborn in coastal digs 2018 that express a fresh chapter for the redoubtable Florent and Amelia Marneau. Added space and oversize windows let the outdoors into a room that oozes grace and sophistication. Beloved dishes such as Spanish octopus with chorizo return to the dinner menu alongside new creations from the open kitchen—think crispy suckling pigs and beans, a three-day cassoulet. Amelia’s new desserts include ravishing Napoleons served weekends only.

7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 714-434-7900. $$$ MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB O.C.’s flashiest hipsters gather here to be nursed like they’re bleeding cash. And they are. Megamartinis, obese lobsters, and Bible-thick steaks don’t come cheap, but this dramatic setting does offer the ocean view and suave service worthy of its position as our finest castle of cholesterol consumption. Thursdays are famed for singles action that approaches tournament level. 8112 E. Coast Highway, 949-376-6990.

See South Coast Metro location. $$$ WASA SUSHI James Hamamori cemented his stardom at this striking shopping-center spot brimming with devotees of modern spins on sushi. Renowned for such fare as salmon with ginger sauce and fresh orange. Exceptional selection of salads, appetizers, and entrees as well. 1344 Bison Ave., 949-760-1511.

Beer and wine. $$ ZOV’S NEWPORT COAST This attractive shopping center offshoot of the popular original Zov’s in Tustin is a go-to patio cafe that lures locals with creative Cal-Med dishes such as Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. 21123 Newport Coast Drive, 949-760-9687. See Tustin location. $$$

ORANGE BOSSCAT KITCHEN & LIBATIONS Old Towne’s newest gastropub thoughtfully transforms a historic corner into a lively whiskey bar serving worthy eats with a southern accent. Look for Parmesan-crusted meatloaf, gulf shrimp and grits, and a yowza burger. The service is sharp. Sunday brunch and a robust midweek happy hour. 118 W. Chapman Ave., 714-716-1599. $$ FELIX CONTINENTAL CAFE Despite the use of canned peas and a menu as old as the Castro regime, this value-conscious cafe remains a cult favorite, serving traditional Cuban and Spanish foods. A charming spot to sip a cafe con leche, enjoy a slice of tres leches cake, and watch the world go by. 36 Plaza Square, 714-633-5842. Beer and wine. $ GABBI’S MEXICAN KITCHEN Gabbi Patrick grew up working in her family’s Mexican restaurants, then studied at the Greystone Culi-

128 Ora nge C o ast • April 2022

Crispy pork belly confit at Marché Moderne nary Academy in Napa. The menu reveals her formal training as it embraces her family’s background.

With items such as gorditas al pastor (masa cakes with Kurobuta pork belly and a pineapple-onion relish), Patrick’s plates celebrate simple, honest flavors. 141 S. Glassell St., 714-633-3038. $$ HAVEN CRAFT KITCHEN + BAR A serious contender in the gastropub category, this popular storefront in Old Towne lures a mixed crowd of brew fanatics and foodies, thanks to a rich roster of esoteric suds and polished pub grub from chef Craig Brady. Dishes such as a braised lamb pappardelle and coriander roasted baby carrots. Lunch and early dinner are options for bypassing the deafening din that rises with the crowd. 190 S. Glassell St., 714-221-0680. $$ THE HOBBIT Gustatory delights worthy of Gatsby attract diners on special occasions to this gracious hacienda, where dinners are seven-course pageants that start with bubbly and nibbles in the wine cellar, and end hours later on the cigar patio. Each night’s menu is set weeks in advance—and so are most reservations. 2932 E. Chapman Ave., 714-997-1972. Reservations required. $$$ PRIME CUT CAFÉ & WINE BAR American comfort cuisine gets a major boost from top-notch ingredients, sophisticated kitchen techniques, and, of course, a wine bar with 100 choices by the taste, glass, or bottle. The dashing digs are casual enough to pair with a movie date next door.

1547 W. Katella Ave., 714-532-4300. $$

PLACENTIA EL FAROLITO Often packed tighter than a taquito, this is a go-to favorite for traditional border fare, served fast and friendly. Pass the wait with an icy Negra Modelo— regulars know to grab one from the cooler out front.

Huevos dishes—rancheros, machaca, chorizo—are

popular on weekend mornings, and served until 3 p.m. 201 S. Bradford Ave., 714-993-7880. $ FISH IN A BOTTLE Sleepy Placentia gets some modern chow at this maverick mom-and-pop cafe that supplements California cuisine with elaborate, innovative sushi rolls. If a Tuscan roll with grilled veggies and balsamic reduction doesn’t intrigue, go traditional with the soft-shell crabs with crispy tomato, or seared ahi with squash-seed crust. The casual cafe has a sushi bar for purists. 1205 E. Imperial Highway, 714528-4000. Beer, wine, and sake. $$

RANCHO SANTA MARGARITA THE BLIND PIG KITCHEN & BAR Lakeside seats, terrific craft cocktails, and daring fare by young chef Karl Pfleider earn local love for this rare gastro-canteen in Rancho Santa Margarita. Midweek tapas start at 3 p.m. with goodies such as steak tartare with pistachio XO sauce. But wait until 5 p.m. for the mahi-mahi with paprika mole. 31431 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949888-0072. Second location (not reviewed) in Yorba Linda, 4975 Lakeview Ave., 714-485-2593. $$ CARMELITA’S KITCHEN This lakefront sprawler offers top-notch Cal-Mex fare from the culinary vision of owner Clemente Heredia Jr., a third-generation operator. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Outstanding margaritas.

Warm, spiffy service. 31441 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949-709-7600. See Laguna Beach location. $$

SAN CLEMENTE BRICK The menu of authentic, seasonal cuisine says Italy, but the unfussy setting and beach-casual regulars make for a solid California vibe at this trattoria by chef-owner David Pratt. Thin-crust pizzas from the wood-fired Valoriani oven are composed with care, photographs by E M I LY J . D AV I S

but don’t miss the house-made pastas and seasonal salads. Amazing meatballs, too. 216 N. El Camino Real, 949-429-1199. $$ IVA LEE’S Deep South and down-home despite the modern exterior, the Southern-Creole eats here are designed to help diners relax and let the good times roll. 555 N. El Camino Real, 949-361-2855. Dinner only. $$$ MRK PUBLIC Three chefs, two of them former co-chefs at Tabu Grill in Laguna Beach, transform a fast-casual fixture into a winning spot that offers craft beers, all $5, and a tightly edited menu of elevated favorites, notably Tuscan toast, and a terrific fried chicken sandwich.

The rear counter offers a distant ocean view. 1402 S. El Camino Real, 949-441-7621. Beer and wine. $ NICK’S On a prime stretch of vintage Avenida del Mar, this inviting bar and grill is just urbane enough to lure grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of crackerjack cocktails and a compact allday menu of comfort classics with a modern twist.

Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened fish sandwich. And there’s a sidewalk patio with fireplace. Sociable service is notably polished.

213 Avenida del Mar, 949-481-2200. See Laguna Beach location. $$ SOUTH OF NICK’S From the festive boxes of Chiclets at the reception station to scores of fine-sipping tequilas at the roomy bar, this beach burg shop from the team behind Nick’s is all about hospitality and scratch cooking. Cocktails are special, so are desserts, but don’t miss the feel-good dishes such as mini-sopes, sea bass in poblano cream, and pork chile verde. 110 N. El Camino Real, 949-481-4545. Second location (not reviewed) in Laguna Beach at 540 S. Coast Hwy., 949-376-8595. $$ VINE A decor revamp of the cozy dining room and a menu overhaul add up to impressive new heights, because owner Russ Bendel Jr. wisely gives sauce monster and executive chef Jared Cook full reign over the kitchen. Look for killer duck wings and nightly specials that tend to sell out. A garden out back only sweetens this beach burg gem. 211 N. El Camino Real, 949-361-2079. Dinner only. $$$

SAN JUAN C APISTRANO EL ADOBE DE CAPISTRANO This restaurant will always be known as Nixon’s favorite. No surprises here, just steaks, combo plates, friendly service, and a charming setting. Ask for a tour of the purportedly haunted carcel, a former jail converted into a wine cellar. This historic building used to be the juzgado, or court, in colonial days.

31891 Camino Capistrano, 949-493-1163. $$ L’HIRONDELLE This pudgy, white adobe in the mission’s shadow charms with home cooking of the French-Belgian sort. The snug room has a cozy aura for chilly nights; the flowery patio suits the cuisine. 31631 Camino Capistrano, 949-661-0425. Beer and wine. $$ MAYFIELD Modern, hyper-seasonal California fare meets the timeless food ways of the Middle East at this ingenious newcomer. Breezy two-story digs include a pretty quartz bar for leading-edge

New York steak taco at Chato’s Bar and Grill cocktails. Do try fried eggplant, lamb meatballs, and shareable dips. By day, look for indulgent brunch dishes. 31761 Camino Capistrano, 949-218-5140. $$$ PUBLIC 74 This county-line gastropub radiates a welcoming vibe that attracts customers of all types to its fauxramshackle chic, second-story venue. Craft brews, booze, and decidedly eclectic eats change often, as executive chef Gerry Kent keeps the smallish menu seasonal. Definitely consider the two-handed Reuben, and there’s a seasonal monster burger. 27211 Ortega Highway, 949-481-2723. $$ RAMOS HOUSE CAFÉ A sweet adobe hiding in the historic Los Rios district, Ramos House Café turns out some of South County’s most delectable daytime fare. Contemporary and clever American breakfasts and lunches (brunch on weekends) have a distinct Southern accent that fits the rustic, alfresco setting with passing trains as soundtrack. Look for ethereal biscuits and crab hash. And don’t miss the killer bloody mary. 31752 Los Rios St., 949-443-1342. $$ SUNDRIED TOMATO This breezy cafe is a great find for light lunch and uncomplicated dinners. Small and large plates for the California palate: sundried tomato soup and memorable sandwiches, such as the honey-cilantro chicken pesto, or lamb burger with Gorgonzola and aioli. 31781 Camino Capistrano, 949-661-1167. Second location (not reviewed) in San Clemente at 821 Via Suerte, 949-388-5757. $$

SANTA ANA [

SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO

]

BENCHMARK Quirky and capable, this Santa Ana newcomer goes all-in for alfresco, luring diners with a tree-shaded setting on a vintage residential street. The modest menu of American bistro dishes is just big enough to have wide appeal. Happy hour and weekend brunch have a backyard party vibe. Dinner surprises with upmarket dishes, say a lovely bavette

steak atop celery root puree. 601 E. Santa Ana Blvd., 714-480-0225. $$ CHAPTER ONE The diverse crowd here drinks with gusto as proved by the enduring fame of its Moscow Mule, made with fresh-daily house ginger beer. Best bets include daily specials, unique hooch pours, and weekend brunch. 227 N. Broadway, 714-352-2225. $$ CHATO’S BAR AND GRILL This intrepid Mexican canteen offers less-familiar dishes—corundas, roast quail—alongside comfort favorites such as ceviche and chilaquiles. Michoacán native Sergio Ortega previously of Descanso, is executive chef. Inaugural meals include dinner nightly and Sunday brunch. Commendable drinks.

400 N. Broadway, 714-852-3256. $$ EL MERCADO MODERN CUISINE Deceptively bare bones, the menu offers about 20 dishes, each showcasing a regional recipe fromMexico’s distinctive territories. Don’t miss a sublime aguachile verde. Also impressive: crisp tacos ahogado in hot broth. We loved the guajillo salsa-soaked bread in the open-face pork pambazo at brunch.

Inventive cocktails lean on mezcal and house-made bitters. The vintage site with soaring ceilings seats 115 and boasts modern artwork. Expect kind, unflappable service. 301 N. Spurgeon St., 714-338-2446. $$ LOL A GASPAR Offbeat but not outlandish, this Artists Village indie draws an eclectic crowd for creative cocktails and lusty pub grub, often with a Latin twist. Inside, the quarters are dark and chummy, while the Euroesque patio opens to the village promenade. 211 W. Second St., 714-972-1172. $$ MIX MIX KITCHEN BAR DTSA got a major dining upgrade BEST NEW RESTAURANT with this winner from chef-owner 2017 Ross Pangilinan. A veteran of highend dining, his major culinary chops rule the day but not the tab at his breakout venue with zero pretension and multicourse meals packed with finesse. Think prosciutto toast with quince honey,

April 2022 • Or a nge Coast 129

DINING GUIDE and seared foie gras with al pastor spices and charred pineapple. Spiffy craft cocktails, too. 300 N. Main St., 714-836-5158. Dinner only. $$$ WURSTHAUS This convivial brats-n-brew salon succeeds by owning a deep niche: custom sausages and all-Euro beers on 20 taps. When all others swoon over local craft brews, this crew goes long on atypical sausages with wild sauces on pretzel buns. And no pint is complete without Belgian fries made the Old World way. 305 E. Fourth St., 714-760-4333. $

SE AL BE ACH 320 MAIN Seal Beach’s dark-but-cheerful indie venue boasts a long-respected cocktail program, and chef Jamie Carrano complements those craft cocktails with a menu of rich, high-flavor fare. Think bone marrow Wellington, and for brunch, fried chicken Benedict.

Fun day-of-the-week specials include Tiki Tuesday and Wine and Whiskey Wednesday. 320 Main St., 562-799-6246. $$ MAHÉ Mahé is a hot spot for locals. Entertainment and a lively bar are the backdrops for sushi, steaks, and seafood. The inventive rolls, such as the salmon bomb, will make you a regular. 1400 Pacific Coast Highway, 562-431-3022. Dinner only. $$$

SOUTH COAST ME TRO ANQI

Tight focus on the fare makes dining at this South Coast Plaza hot spot better than ever.

Executive chef Ron Lee makes delicious harmony with matriarch master chef Helene An’s spicy beef tacos and roasted New Zealand lamb rack, as well as her fabled roast crab (Tuesday only). Zen chic decor turns heads. Drinks at the dramatic bar dazzle the cocktail crowd, but try Sunday brunch for a more kickback experience, or snag a padded stool at the adjacent noodle bar. 3333 Bristol St., 714-5575679. $$$ ANTONELLO RISTORANTE For more than three decades South Coast Plaza’s Italian grand diva has reigned for ultrafine feasting on authentic, traditional dishes backed by a savvy wine selection deep with Italian stars. House-made pastas, breads, and desserts. The restaurant’s aura of privilege is underscored by pampering service for VIPs. A full-service wine bar is the latest update.

3800 South Plaza Drive, 714-751-7153. $$$ THE CAPITAL GRILLE Florida’s Darden Group (parent of downstairs restaurant Seasons 52) takes on an increasing amount of square footage at South Coast Plaza with this upscale, 400-plus-seat steakhouse. Despite an emphasis on dry-aged steaks and seafood classics, some of the best dishes are lunch items, appetizers, and desserts. Gracious service, plush surroundings, and a deep, steep wine list. 3333 Bristol St., 714-4321140. $$$ DARYA Don’t let the chandeliers and acres of marble deceive—this convivial Persian dining room isn’t staid or formal. It’s de facto party central for the county’s Persian expats, their kin, and others who enjoy superb renditions of Middle Eastern kebabs,

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Dover sole at Knife Pleat rice dishes, and classics such as fesenjon, a savory meat entree. Efficient service and huge portions make this a good choice for groups. 3800 South Plaza Drive, 714-557-6600. $$ DIN TAI FUNG Fans happily endure long waits to satisfy their craving for xiao long bao, juicy pork dumplings, handpleated with care. Bowls of noodles, rice, and stacks of bamboo steamers crowd tables as diners blend their own aromatic dipping sauce from rich soy, black vinegar, and shreds of fresh ginger. 3333 Bristol St., 714-549-3388. $$ HAMAMORI Sushi master artist James Hamamori applies persuasive talent to this South Coast Plaza penthouse dazzler of a sushi bar. Son Jim is now behind the bar, too, but this heavenly venue also shows off non-sushi dishes such as uni floating in edamame puree, Kobe rissole, and miso-marinated lamb chops. Omakase is truly top-notch. 3333 Bear St., 714-850-0880. $$$ KNIFE PLEAT South Coast Plaza’s rarefied penthouse shines ever brighter with Orange County’s newest Michelin star recipient, helmed by chef Tony Esnault and partner Yassmin Sarmadi. The Michelinacclaimed duo from Los Angeles was destined to see stars again with this radiant backdrop for Esnault’s graceful cuisine and Sarmadi’s courtly hospitality. Look for butter-poached lobster, forest mushroom melange, and the signature legumes de saison when nature allows. Save room for Germain Biotteau’s inimitable desserts. Friday and Saturday night tasting menus are utterly indulgent. 3333 Bristol St., 714-266-3388. Closed Sunday and Monday. $$$ MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE Be prepared for gargantuan portions, with drinks to match. Mastro’s offers Prime steaks, wet-aged for 28 days. A hand-cut, 33-ounce chef’s ribeye, and a 48-ounce, double-cut porterhouse will tame the manliest appetite. Retro sides include twice-baked potato, and creamed spinach. 633 Anton Blvd., 714546-7405. See Newport Coast location. Dinner only. $$$

MORTON’S, THE STEAKHOUSE Steaks, including a 48-ounce porterhouse and a double-cut filet mignon, are wet-aged three to four weeks. Fill your plate with giant sides of broccoli and hash browns, but leave a little room: There’s chocolate cake for dessert. Killer happy hour deals, early and late night, Sunday through Friday. 1641 W. Sunflower Ave., 714-444-4834. See Anaheim location. $$$ PARADISE DYNAST Y Singapore’s largest restaurant group opts for the Bloomingdale’s end of South Coast Plaza for its first U.S. operation with this wildly popular soup dumpling specialist that pioneered xiao long bao, oozing with luxury ingredients that include black truffles, foie gras, and crab roe. Ultramodern digs seat diners in view of an exhibition kitchen where 20 artisans handcraft a steady flow of dumplings to support a 75-dish menu starring dim sum and Sichuan classics.

Walk-up wait list. 3333 Bristol St., 714-617-4630 $$ RITTER’S STEAM KETTLE COOKING Chef-partner Mike Ritter and crew create CajunCreole magic in 12 steam-heated steel caldrons that cook seductive versions of gumbo, chowder, and the legendary pan poast—a heady concoction of various shellfish bubbling in a rich sauce of cream, tomato, and secret spices, topped with a dome of perfect jasmine rice—that’s by far the bestselling dish.

And don’t miss the mean po’ boy sandwich. 1421 W. MacArthur Blvd., 714-850-1380. Beer and wine. $$ ROYAL KHYBER Arun Puri, the creator behind Orange County’s first Indian restaurant, is still buying the spices and manning the tandoor oven in the skilled kitchen at this upscale choice for first-rate renditions of classics such as butter chicken, tikka masala, and the signature Khyber’s Nectar, a dish of slow-cooked lamb shanks said to be an aphrodisiac. 1621 W. Sunflower Ave., 714-436-1010. $$ SEASONS 52 Open-kitchen cooking with wood fire serves seasonal eats with a farmers market spin. Flatbreads and shot-glass desserts are signatures. Look for nightly music at the piano bar and an inviting

photographs by E M I LY J . D AV I S

patio with fountains and fire pits. 3333 Bristol St., 714-437-5252. $$ TERRACE BY MIX MIX Canny chef-owner Ross Pangilinan leverages the success of his original Mix Mix Kitchen Bar in downtown Santa Ana with this minimalist aerie overlooking the stylish Bridge of Gardens skywalk at South Coast Plaza. This venue lacks a full bar, but it has wine and beer and is open daily with ample free parking. Fans love the three-course lunch for $20, but weekend brunch with its mimosa cart beguiles, and dinner offers the best prix fixe in the center. Don’t-miss dishes include Asian ribs, hamachi crudo, and pork cheek adobo. 3333 Bear St., 657-231-6447. $$ VACA Top chef Amar Santana and ace partner Ahmed Labbate return to Costa Mesa with an exuberant, singular ode to Spain. Santana sidesteps the “eat local” crusade, offering peerless jamon Iberico, lush bomba rice for paellas, and verdant Mahon gin for cocktails. Dozens of authentic tapas beg to be tried, but do consider excellent wood-grilled steaks, dryaged in-house. Dinner tables at prime times are scarce, so plan, wait, or aim for lunch. 695 Town Center Drive, 714-463-6060. $$$

TRABUCO C ANYON TRABUCO OAKS STEAKHOUSE This favorite of Nixon’s, where they will cut off your tie and keep it as part of the decor, is 100 percent serious when it comes to steaks: Choice cuts are well-aged and mesquite-charcoal grilled to order.

From the 2-pound cowboy steak to the 8-ounce filet mignon, the smoky, charred flavor shines through in every bite. Small but select wine list of California superstars. 20782 Trabuco Oaks Drive, 949-5860722. Dinner only. $$

TUSTIN CENTRO STORICO Old Town Tustin’s new kid on the old block transforms a vintage building into a spaghetteria and bar, plus a back-pocket cafe. Artisan, fresh daily pasta is the latest effort from the Pozzuoli family behind Centro, the excellent micro pizzeria next door. Signature dishes include Capperi e Olive (casarecca), Aglione (bucatini), and grilled porterhouse for two. 405 El Camino Real., 714-258-8817. $$ CHAAK Gabbi and Ed Patrick of Gabbi’s Kitchen chose Old Town to show off the county’s most sophisticated take on the regional fare of Mexico’s wondrous Yucatán Peninsula, naming their new location after the Mayan rain god. The dazzling space features a retractable roof and sliding Roman shades to lovely effect. Must-have dishes include sikil pec, a roasted pumpkin seed dip, as well as cochinita pibil and carne cruda. A 16-seat bar invites lingering over elaborate cocktails or a glass from an uncommonly diverse wine list. 215 El Camino Real, 657-699-3019. $$$ ROMA D’ ITALIA Old Town’s durable red-sauce joint keeps fans coming for family-recipe meatballs, pizzas, parmigianas, and pastas. Casual digs include the red-checked

Papaya peanut kachumber at The Yellow Chilli tablecloths, and shakers of crushed pepper. Good for groups and speedy work lunches. 611 El Camino Real, 714-544-0273. $ SNOOZE Denver-based Snooze handily charms the all-day, everyday brunch crowd it lures to its Tustin Marketplace venue. Consistently delicious riffs on classic egg and pancake dishes make for a brunch you want but will never cook at home. Expect peppy, earnest service that reflects the menu’s slogan of “peace, love, pancakes.” 3032 El Camino Real, 714-415-6269.

Second location (not reviewed) in Orange at 240 W. Chapman Ave., 657-284-1850. $$ THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR The O.C. power crowd doesn’t care that this isn’t a winery, but a huge, handsome restaurant that attracts disciples of steak, wine, and cigars. They’re exactly the folks you’d expect would follow partners JC Clow and William Lewis from their previous gig at Morton’s, with executive chef Yvon Goetz in tow.

Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. If the 7,500-bottle wine cellar isn’t enough, you can always purchase a private wine locker. 2647 Park Ave., 714-258-7600.

See Newport Beach location. $$$ THE YELLOW CHILLI The Yellow Chilli is another franchise by Sanjeev Kapoor, India’s mega-celebrity chef. Bigger than Wolfgang or Martha. The massive menu proves the master chef isn’t stingy with recipes, not after writing more than 150 cookbooks. Knowledgeable servers help navigate the options. Don’t miss Sham Savera, one of Kapoor’s most famous creations: open-face spinach dumplings filled with fresh white paneer that float in silky tomato gravy spiked with garlic, cardamom, and mace. 2463 Park Ave., 714-389-5280. $$

ZOV’S TUSTIN BISTRO Fans love Zov Karamardian’s modern, creative way with Mediterranean flavors. Zov keeps her flagship venue fresh and stylish. Expect Cal-Med dishes such as Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. The patio cafe out back stays busy at lunch and weekend breakfast. 17440 E. 17th St., 714-838-8855. See Newport Coast location. $$$

YORBA LINDA BLUE AGAVE Southwestern favorites, from tamales to carnitas, and mole enchiladas in generous portions, keep regulars coming back. For something different, try the Puerto Nuevo tostada with shrimp, mahi-mahi, sour cream, and raspberries in a pumpkin seed-citrus dressing. 18601 Yorba Linda Blvd., 714-970-5095. $$ THE WILD ARTICHOKE Chef-owner James D’Aquila and his winsome crew raise the culinary bar at this teensy, modest storefront. Expect skillful, gourmet incarnations of comfort fare, such as pasta Bolognese. Desserts are few but mighty. 4973 Yorba Ranch Road, 714-777-9646.

Beer and wine. Dinner only. $$

DINING NEWS To keep up with the latest Orange County dining news, subscribe to our O.C. Dining newsletter and follow our food-and-dining coverage at orangecoast.com.

April 2022 • Or a nge Coast 131

O F

I N T E R E S T

R I G H T-H A N D M A N

Fullerton native Jorge Diaz owns California’s first official finger skateboard shop and training facility, SoCal G8 Sessions in Tustin. by Lily Lopez

How did you get into this hobby?

I’ve been into fingerboarding since I was 7.

Back then, skate shops had little keychain skateboards that you could put on your backpack. That was the beginning of fingerboarding for me. When I got older, Tech Deck came out with finger skateboards. I was able to do a few tricks. The scene was really big in Europe, and when I was older and got my first paycheck, it went toward a wooden fingerboard from Germany. I discovered the F I N D OUT M OR E !

socalg8sessions.com

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difference and how much easier the tricks were with the board quality.

Why open a shop?

I started in my backyard, with 12 or 13 fingerboard parks. It started getting bigger and bigger, packing my backyard with 80 to 100 people. After four years of doing events, I was ready to get a location, but COVID-19 hit.

(In 2021) I had the opportunity to get a spot in the District at Tustin Legacy. They were actually OK with it being such a niche hobby.

How does it work?

We offer $80 memberships, which include

general daily access. Our daily entry is $15, which allows people to go in and out as they please. Sometimes people will come early, then go to the skate park down the street, and finish off their session here as it gets darker.

Why do you think fingerboarding is on the rise?

I know COVID-19 made people get back into fingerboarding as it allowed them to pick up an old hobby. We have kids come in ages 10 to 18, and we also have older guys ages 20 to 40. I hope that more and more people get into it.

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

Vol. 48 Issue 4 ORANGE COAST (ISSN 02790483 and USPS 360-630) and ORANGECOAST.COM are published monthly by Orange Coast Magazine LLC, 10100 Venice Blvd., Suite 213, Culver City, CA 90232. 949-862-1133. Copyright 2022 by Orange Coast Magazine LLC. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without written permission is prohibited. Not responsible for unsolicited material. All manuscripts, artwork, and photographs must be accompanied by a stamped, self-addressed envelope. Periodical U.S. postage paid at Los Angeles, CA and additional entry offices. Subscription rates in continental U.S. $19.95 for 12 months.

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P E R S O N

NOT EVERYONE IN ORANGE COUNTY CAN DINE OUT.

35

%

of California college students struggle with food insecurity.*

Vanguard’s Living Well food pantry, in partnership with Second Harvest Food Bank of Orange County, provides free food to end student hunger.

Join the fight. Donate and learn more at vanguard.edu/livingwell

*Source: California Student Aid Commission: SEARS Survey 2018-2019

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