POWHAIR

BY KATHARINA SCHWAB

1. Self-portrait „in the style of...“

2. Pictures of interaction & short descriptive text

2.1. first round

2.2. second round

3. Body Explorations

3.1. Body drawings

3.2. Body mock-ups

3.3. Textures, Senses and other exercises of module 2

4. Project / Phase 1

4.1. Research 1

4.2. Research 2

4.3. Essence Midterm presentation

5. Project / Phase 2

5.1. Project development

5.2. Sketches

5.3. Stages of prototypes, mock-ups

6. Project / Final Model

6.1. Final abstract

6.2. Final pictures of the prototype

7. Value and potential of the project

8. References and important links

Self-portrait „in the style of...“

In order to start off the semester in the right mindset and with the goal to explore our bodies and ourselves more, our first assignment was about a thorough research of well known photographers, who each had their own style. Furthermore, we were challenged to present a self portrait of ourselves while trying to imitate the style of the chosen photographer.

The photographer, I researched about, was Man Ray (Emmanuel Radnitzky). He was an important figure during the Dada and surrealist movement and revolutioned the world with his unique style. He mostly took portraits of people but was also the inventor of the rayographs. Another style, he was very fond of, was the technique of “solarization”, where parts of the black and white images were reversed in tone, creating unique pieces.

For my self portrait therefore, I tried to recreate this certain technique with the aid of photoshop.

In general, this exercise helped me to see myself in a different light and perspective, as this was the first time I seriously took a self portrait of myself.

2. Pictures of interaction & short descriptive text

Simultaneously with the assignment before, we had to reflect on interactions between us, our bodies, objects, places, spaces and other people around us. It was especially challenging to capture this exact interaction in just one photo.

We did two photo rounds in total, working with meaningful interactions and an aesthetic composition. During the first round of photos, I got to know my style a bit better and how I conciously and unconsciously liked to play with colors.

2.1. Second round

In the second round, I payed more attention to detail and the interactions in general. I created more conscious desicions and tried some more experimental approaches regarding the interactions. Nevertheless, I wanted to keep the element of bold color combinations, giving the pictures a feeling of playfulness and youth. Besides planning the photoshoot beforehand, the pictures still had a characteristic of a certain randomness, enhancing this fun, youthful feeling once again.

In general, I learned more about my body and the perception of myself besides noticing even the smallest interaction we have with the world around us on a daily basis.

3. Body Explorations

In this section, together with Professor Camilo Ayala Garcia, we dedicated some practical exercises to understand our bodies, physics and its relation to its surroundings better. I had a lot of fun during these segments as they indeed embodied the “learning by doing” spirit.

3.1. Body drawings

First, we started by drawing our body in a 1:1 scale in a straight position and one natural pose. Furthermore, we drew random objects with one related body part in its correct sizes. Here I learned how big a body really is and how much space it needs. I also explored the different proportions of the body through this exercise.

3.2. Body mock-ups

To do the body mock-ups/prototypes, we used wrapping foil, paper tape, a marker and a scissors. This was one of the most fun lessons, where we all interacted with each other and helped one another. We learned this useful method to further understand the body now as a three dimensional shape rather than two dimensional.

3.3. Textures, Senses and other exercises of module 2

To broaden our perspective and understand further our bodies interactions with our surroundings, we did some exercises on exploring textures and senses around us and sketching and describing them.

After these important exercises, the prosess for our real project this semester began. The first phase consisted of a long and thorough research of a field of interest our choice. My initial research started out about the head, hair and hats in general since I found it very interesting how people expressed their identity and culture through a vast variety of accessories. I went into depth about functionality, aesthetics and meaning.

4.1. Research 1

My research startet out with the topic of light with the body, as we all had been assigned one relevant topic in groups of two students. Naturally, my field of interest went over to sun protection and headwear, also combined with my previous interest in heads and hats. This however got widened into hair and hats and accessories in general, where i dove deeper into the meaning of these headwears. Historically, I’ve gathered plenty of information and did occasional mindmaps and word gatherings to sort my mind and get a clear idea of my intentions and direction I want to go.

In my second research phase, I focused more on the hair and was fascinated how it can be used as a means of communication. I dove deep into the meaning of hair, in historical, cultural and cross-field aspects.

From this point on, I came across an interesting essay “Women and Their Hair: Seeking Power through Resistance and Accommodation” (Rose Weitz, 2001). This really opened up another field of interest and taught me even more about the power hair can have and the way we can use it to express or achieve certain opinions and goals.

4.3. Essence Midterm presentation

After weeks of research, my final topic for the midterm presentation was hair in general. Starting with basic facts, functionality and anatomy over to the history of hair (Ancient cultures, Hollywood, trends, ...) up to the psychology of hair, as hair does tell us a lot about status, age, religion, opinions and personality.

Hair can be an incredible powerful tool, we need to be aware of. Not only can we influence others around us but we can indicate many statements and how we feel about ourselves.

Just like this, throughout history up until now, hair and suitable acessories have always been an important signifier of power. With this message in mind, I started my design process with the end goal of designing an accessory to somehow give the wearer a feeling of power.

Ancient Greece (1500-150 BC): long, curls, natural accessories, gold/silver wreaths, oils, updos

HOLLYWOOD & MEDIA

1920s modern Bob (Clara Bow)

Quing & Han dynasty (China): show wealth & abundance, gold, pearls, emeralds

RELATIONSHIPS

RELIGION

tonsure (monks): commitment to austere lifestyle, denouncing the vanity and worldly ways represented by hair

POLITICS

skinheads: shaving off hair, against hippies, for working-class pride, far-right and national front politics

GENDER

- enhance femininity

- high expectations from society

- mainstream beauty ideals (Eurocentric):

- long - curly/wavy

- preferably blonde

- neat

Himba dreadlocks: coated in a red-tinged paste ‘otjize’, weather protection, hairstyles symbolise age, marital status, wealth and rank, thickness can indicate woman’s fertility

African slaves brought to America: head shaven as sign of superiority, escape maps braided in hair (hidden communication), gold & seeds hidden inside

- showcase virility/masculinity

- hairy body image (sport: rugby, boxing,...)

- symbol of strength & courage

- hairless preferred before 1520 & 1630s - early 19th century (wigs)

- 1520: kings with beards at war as role models

- early 19th century (hairiest era for men): sideburns, mustache, beard

- late 1990s: rise of barber profession

1980s blowout (Princess Diana)

POWER

- hair as tool to obtain power / reach desired goals

- boost / diminish confidence and self perception

- can influence others perception, feelings and behaviour towards you

- dependent on culture and viewer

womens hair & power:

- against superficial womens body centric image

- resist subordination

- (sense of) power gives greater control in life

accommodation to beauty norms:

- achieving (sense of) power by accomodating beauty norms

- goal: improve individual position, gaining benefits

- concious & intentional

- gaining approval by others

- big change but easy with minimum investment of time & money

resistance against beauty norms:

- challenge others ideology & perception & system

- identify with like-minded ones

- goal: social change & shift in power,

- symbol for: self determination, empowerment, control, freedom, independence, pride

- non-verbal communication of opinion

Afro natural hair movement, black pride

Relaxer Perm box for black hair

Moving on to the second, more practical phase of this project. We started out by gathering inspiration, ideas, sketching, developing prototypes and mock-ups and repeating these steps over and over again, until the initial idea got to a refined and almost finished prototype. Many experiments were made during this stage and plenty of reviews to get constant feedback for further development.

5.1. Project development

The project development started out by a series of self experiments, where I tried a new hairstyle every day to expand my knowledge on hair and the different possibilities of use and appliance of accessories. This then went over to more experimental hair styles with the aid of tutorials, trying to test the limits of hair.

5.2. Sketches

As mentioned before, sketching and producing mock-ups and prototypes was a constant simultaneous activity, going back to sketching once in a while to refine the already existing models.

I researched about power symbols across all cultures and their meanings with the intention to include their shape to my design.

After a careful selection and more mock-ups and try-outs, I developed a dozen of sketches for three symbols, based on previous designs and sketches: the Ankh, the Lotus flower and the spiral.

5.3. Stages of prototypes, mock-ups

In this section, I will show the multiple stages of prototypes and mock-ups I have made ranging from cardboard to polystyrol, acrylics, wire and beads. This was certainly a time consuming step, hoowever one of the most important ones, since the method of learning and developing by doing does work the best for me.

I started out with random shapes of cardboard with initial ideas, I wanted to try out. Then I worked on the shapes and functionality after getting feedback from multiple sources. And like this, I developed a certain form language and reached the stepping stone for the final prototypes.

With the available mock-ups I had at this point, I let my course try them out by themselves without a lot of explanations. I observed closely how my coursemates interacted with the pieces. My goal with this try out session was to find out which pieces work the best and for what hairtypes, since I also wanted to find something useable for every hairtype and length. It was also very important for me to figure out the way of using them and if you are able to do it by yourself. In general, this was a very helpful, eye opening and fun experience, where everyone interacted with each other.

Over the next development steps, I constantly let all kind of people try out my objects to ensure improvements.

For my first prototypes, I created first Rhinofiles of several design options and symbols. To test out the materiality, I used leftover pieces of polystyrol, acrylic and wood of all kinds and thicknesses. Besides this, I used the technique of heat bending plastic around a head shape. From this experience, I gathered plenty of proposals for improvement like the shape and thickness of the slits, the diameters of the curves, the stability and physics of the materials.

Behind the scenes photos from the development of the final prototypes: Lotus flower

Biggest development: Going from a 2D to a 3D shape through heat bending, including cut outs, combinations of shapes and colors

Behind the scenes photos from the development of the final prototype: Ankh

Biggest development: lighter optic and feeling because of wire use, use of beads (gem beads with spiritual meaning, head fitted shape for comfortable wearing

6. Project / Final Model

In this last section, the final abstract and the final photos of the project will be presented.

6.1. Final Abstract

POWHAIR is a collection of head and hair accessories with the intention to give the wearer a sense of power and self-confidence. This sensation of empowerment is achieved through changing others perception of you in a positive way and therefore gaining respect.

By using and integrating known symbols of power and strength and reinterpreting them in a more modern way, this is reinforced on a visual and spiritual level.

Furthermore, POWHAIR focuses on the integration of hair as a medium, reintroducing its potential.

LOTUS FLOWER

The lotus is seen as a symbol of purity, spiritual enlightenment, and rebirth. It is considered sacred in Eastern cultures. Their graceful beauty and stunning colours allow them to stand out from other flowers. (1)

ANKH

Sometimes referred to as the key of life, the Ankh is representative of eternal life in Ancient Egypt. It is often shown in the hands of important Egyptian figures, such as pharaohs and kings, preserving their immortality. Furthermore, it is an emblem of (women’s) power, strength and protection. (2)

AVENTURIN GEM

This stone is believed to be a positive stone of prosperity, diffusing negative emotions, reinforcing leadership, promoting compassion and encouraging perseverance. (3)

To have a nice and clean finish, our course booked the photostudio to take a variety of good pictures, representing our design and prototypes in the best way possible.

8. References and important links

For midterm presentation:

- https://share.upmc.com/2015/10/ear-wax/

- https://unsplash.com/photos/UbJMy92p8wk

- https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/318262

- https://www.tutorialspoint.com/hairstyles-through-history

- https://no.pinterest.com/pin/511651207638232632/

- https://www.vintage-retro.com/greaser-hair-for-men-eye-catching-greaser-hair-styles/

- https://www.zeit.de/online/2009/19/bg-audrey-hepburn

- https://www.savoirflair.com/beauty/499393/how-to-recreate-brigitte-bardot-hairstyle

- https://discover.hubpages.com/style/The-Mop-Top

- https://beladraculalugosi.wordpress.com/category/clara-bow/

- https://www.photowall.de/rita-hayworth-in-gilda-poster

- https://hair.allwomenstalk.com/the-evolution-of-hairstyles-through-history/

- https://www.facebook.com/theultimate80spage/photos/a.330002387198588/1116287751903377/?type=3

- https://www.whowhatwear.co.uk/2000s-hairstyles/slide12

- https://www.popsugar.com/beauty/Selena-Gomez-Hair-Evolution-28909967/amp

- https://www.pinterest.at/weinweinwein/hair/

- https://www.telegraph.co.uk/beauty/hair/david-beckhams-hairstyles-years/

- https://www.slickedbackhair.com/best-hair-products-1950s-biker-greaser-hairstyles/

- https://odelebeauty.com/blogs/the-rinse/hair-trends-history

- https://www.pinterest.com/pin/45176802482745358/

- https://www.allthingshair.com/en-uk/hairstyles-haircuts/new-hairstyles/britneys-mane-moments/

- https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2017/06/160940/frosted-tips-hairstyle-comeback

- https://clickamericana.com/topics/beauty-fashion/vintage-1920s-hairstyles-for-women

- https://www.nga.gov/features/slideshows/18th-century-france-chardin-and-portraiture.html

- https://www.whizzpast.com/victorian-hairstyles-a-short-history-in-photos/

- https://hair.allwomenstalk.com/the-evolution-of-hairstyles-through-history/

- http://www.rewaj.pk/long-emo-hairstyles-for-girls/

- https://www.everydayhealth.com/skin-and-beauty-pictures/things-your-hair-says-about-your-health.aspx

- https://www.scmp.com/magazines/post-magazine/short-reads/article/3124479/what-womens-hairstyles-said-about-chinas-qing?module=perpetual_scroll_0&pgtype=article&campaign=3124479

- https://thechinaproject.com/2021/07/21/the-manchu-queue-one-hairstyle-to-rule-them-all/

- https://www.africanexponent.com/post/7891-how-cornrows-were-used-by-slaves-to-escape-slavery-in-south-america

- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Female

- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Male#:~:text=Symbol%20and%20usage-,Symbol,with%20an%20arrow%20pointing%20northeast

- https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/10/08/black-hair-perm-models/

- https://dailyvanity.sg/beauty-tips/korean-perm

- https://www.vogue.com/article/alex-brownsell-bleach-london-la-salon

- https://www.pinterest.de/pin/458452437065142378/

- https://laetitiaky.art

- https://www.altpress.com/jackie-bieber-interview-blackbear-dennis-rodman/

- https://www.infringe.com/shinji-konishi/

- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Afro

- https://www.nylon.com/articles/dreadlocks-history-appropriation

- https://timeline.com/photos-skinhead-youth-england-3dc01faa7450

- https://www.elle.com/uk/beauty/make-up/beauty-tips/g14793/spice-girls-beauty-evolution/?slide=8

- https://www.bbc.co.uk/music/articles/0125caa8-a00d-4bf8-98e1-089e2dac254f

- https://www.vogue.co.uk/beauty/article/jack-grealish-curtain-haircut

- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tonsure

- https://www.swr.de/heimat/westerwald/fuer-hatice-bedeutet-ihr-kopftuch-freiheit-und-feminismus-100.html

- https://www.hna.de/welt/mutter-angelica-tolle-leben-beruehmtesten-tv-nonne-zr-2267714.html

- https://listverse.com/2016/10/28/10-holy-hairstyles/

- https://www.thelovepost.global/decolonise-your-mind/photo-essays/hair-power-exploring-history-and-meaning-hairstyles-across-globe

- https://archive.robinwyatt.photography/image/I0000Tsn9zXgCbIg

- https://didyouknow.org/wigs-that-are-3-feet-high/

- https://rarehistoricalphotos.com/mustache-haircuts-styles-victorian-men/

- https://www.tutorialspoint.com/hairstyles-through-history

- https://www.bbc.co.uk/music/articles/0125caa8-a00d-4bf8-98e1-089e2dac254f

- https://www.britannica.com/topic/Mohawk

- https://www.thelovepost.global/decolonise-your-mind/photo-essays/hair-power-exploring-history-and-meaning-hairstyles-across-globe

- https://www.verywellhealth.com/sebum-buildup-on-scalp-5184298

- https://activilong.com/en/content/95-hair-structure-and-composition

- https://odelebeauty.com/blogs/the-rinse/hair-trends-history

- https://hair.allwomenstalk.com/the-evolution-of-hairstyles-through-history/

- https://www.heart.co.uk/lifestyle/beauty/hairstyles-through-the-ages-1920s-2015/hairstyles-through-the-ages-2010/

- https://harpersbazaar.com.au/hair-trends-throughout-history/

- https://www.wuft.org/news/2022/11/09/creating-community-and-confidence-through-hair/

- https://www.dazeddigital.com/beauty/article/44884/1/mullet-subculture-hair-history

- https://thechinaproject.com/2021/07/21/the-manchu-queue-one-hairstyle-to-rule-them-all/

- https://www.vocabulary.com/dictionary/tonsure

- https://www.thedonutwhole.com/why-do-nuns-keep-their-heads-covered/

- https://www.sciencefocus.com/the-human-body/why-is-long-hair-often-considered-feminine/

- https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3081969.pdf?refreqid=excelsior%3Ab9fcb9d13470792be6d8a36e4364489e&ab_segments=&origin=&initiator=&acceptTC=1

- https://www.themedicineman.com.au/the-power-of-hair/

- https://www.everydayhealth.com/skin-and-beauty-pictures/things-your-hair-says-about-your-health.aspx

- https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK499948/

- https://www.redbookmag.com/beauty/g42417502/iconic-vintage-hairstyles/#sidepanel

- https://www.thymuskin.de/dermatology/en/tips-and-info/hair-and-social-communication

- https://www.avenuefive.edu/10-common-hair-problems/

- https://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1920s-hairstyles/

- https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/hair-twirling-touching-habit

- https://theviewfromadrawbridge.com/2020/04/16/hiding-behind-your-hair/

- https://www.quora.com/How-can-one-know-if-a-girl-playing-with-her-hair-is-flirting-or-just-playing-with-her-hair

essay power and hair:

- https://www.jstor.org/stable/3081969

(1) https://www.floraly.com.au/blogs/news/lotus-flower-meanings

(2) https://www.nps.gov/afbg/learn/historyculture/ankh.htm#:~:text=The%20ankh%20symbol—sometimes%20referred,%2D%2Dor%20original%2D%2Dcross.

(3) https://www.firemountaingems.com/resources/encyclobeadia/gem-notes/gmstnprprtsvntr#:~:text=This%20stone%20is%20believed%20to,promoting%20compassion%20and%20encouraging%20perseverance.

pictures: - https://liveboldandbloom.com/01/self-improvement/powerful-women-symbols

- https://flyingwithair.com/products/green-aventurine-polished-tumblestone-crystal

Designer:

University:

Faculty:

Course:

Professors:

Year:

Katharina Schwab

Free University of Bozen-Bolzano

Design and Art

Body Interactions

Caroline Perret, Camilo Ayala Garcia, Gerhard Glüher

2023

© Katharina Schwab