Zari Zardozi House -Future embroidery infused with pragmatic technology

Kirti Bali Project: Zari Zardozi House: City : Delhi Typology:Zari Zardozi showroom and workshop Site Area: Kinari Bazar,old delhi,182 sqm

Photo of Studen B/W

1G (1990 to 2000): Small Scale Cottage industry

1990’s-Decline in the industry One of the major changes observed in chandni chowk was heavy commercialization, and due to its proximity to the railway station, the area’s major uses became go downs, wholesale markets etc.Row houses with residences above shops.

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1G (1990 to 2000): Small Scale Cottage industry

Shift to low cost of maintenence areas areas on the other side of yamuna in delhi,Tughlaqabad,shahadrseelampur.Majority of workers shifted to low cost of living areas within Delhi and continued to work in handmade zari work clusters together in small scale industries .

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2G (2000 to 2010): Shift to mass production

• Growth in the fabric export market • Work was done on automatic machines • the Zari embroidery is done on a large scale and produced in bulk and supplied to other parts of Delhi and exported as well • Made the process faster and cheaper • generated employment for people with no skill of embroidery • Bulk stiching of fabric and embroidery took place

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2G (2000 to 2010): Shift to mass production

Post liberalisation Shift to Mass production-2000’s Okhla set up industries area where the whole process of Zari became mechanised and it was sent to other parts of Delhi and india.

• Entire workshops were rented as they had lower maintainence cost and could be used throught the day

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3G (2010 to 2020): Smaller shops converted to larger showrooms

Due to its lower rents compared to the surrounding area and its proximity to esteemed institutions like Jawaharlal Nehru University, Indian Institute of Technology and the National Institute of Fashion Technology, it has become a popular hub for startups, fashion design boutiques, cafes, and restaurants.

The village’s exterior lanes are its busiest business areas.

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3G (2010 to 2020): Inclusion of workshop within showrooms

Dada Jungi House is one of the most famous streets here.

Developed in 2008, the narrow lane is enclosed by gates on both ends and is dotted with numerous designers stores.

Dada Jungi House is known for shops that stock items at affordable prices that suit both Indian and international clients. Both budding and established designers showcase their creations here.

Workshops at the bottom -shops and showrooms at the top.

Congested alleys housing workshops for the workers- both machine and handmade work. Some shops are three floors , some extend backwards Leather Shoe work from scratch made in the workshops there and then hand embroidered .All shops are rented-10-15 years old.

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3G (2010 to 2020): Small Scale Cottage industry

high end stores have started have a manufacturing unit of their own , so that there is scope for experimentation

The evolving typology of zari zardozi shops from wholesale to customisation for high end clientele holds a promising potential for future growth of the industry and will enable the preserving and experimentation of the art of zari zardozi embroidery.

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4 G: Statement

Zari zardozi House Handmade Embroidery future infused with Pragmatic Technology

A Zari Zardozi House for high end clientele in Chandni chowk housing an AI assisted showroom and workshop customizing the entire process of Zari zardozi.The showroom and workshop are driven by pragmatic technology, enhancing the pace of work with manualelectronic machines and smart screens for selection and customisation,supported by AI.Innovating, experimenting and preserving the by-gone techniques and heritage the atelier will house designers and embroidery specialists with experience in various design fieldsincluding hand embroidery, Zari,kadai work for bridal wear, digital embroidery design, fashion.Aimed at showcasing the fashion industry to a wider audience and clients worldwide.

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Kinari bazaar,Chandni chowk,Old Delhi

Delhi has the largest wholesale market for zardozi hand embroidery goods in chandni chowk kinari bazar,each design is unique and elegant made up of gold and silver thread on colorful fabrics. In Kinari Bazaar is a retail market most of the shops sell retail items, for fancy laces, borders, tassels, different types of beads, and fancy decorative patches for the outfit.

Coming to Katra Neel, you can get any kind of fabric in the alley in wholesale ,it is also famous for dyeing of fabrics

Exterior views of the site taken up for intervention 10

Site

The site is located in Chandni chowk near Kinnari bazar on the recently revamped road leading from Fatehpuri masjid to red fort. Daily Footfall of Chandni chowk-4-6 lakh people Daily footfall in high end boutiques- 150-200 people

View of existing ground floor

View of existing First floor

View of existing Second floor plan

Site area-14x 13m -182 sqm G+2 building ,with showroom on ground floor and first floor,

Views of existing site 11

Circulation,zoning and area chart

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Concept Development

AI Assisted showroom with smart screen for customisation and augmentation of the fabric 13

Concept Development

The conce shows the hand embroidery area of the zari zardozi house,the area is made using adjustable tables that can adjusted as per the demand ,the space is more open and interactive and has a good amount of natural lighting.

The process of punching of holes in the tracing sheet through automatic machines that can also be contolled manually. the cloth.

The idea of balance of intricacy with simpler forms for the facade,it mimics the folding of a cloth and curves reach upto the secong floor.The entire facade is made up of marble cladding

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Concept Development

INFUSING PRAGMATIC TECHNOLOGY WITH TRADITIONAL MUGHAL ARCHITECTURE The concept of pneumatic lift to ramp up the process of transfer of raw materials between the workshop and showroom, this is done within the enclosures made up of golden jalis inspired by mugal architecture and patterns of zari zardozi

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Concept

(Silent Luxury and timelessness) Mood board -AI assisted showroom Red sandstone on ceiling and walls ,white marble with inlay and zari zardozi inspired inlay on floor and walls with embossed texture

Silent luxury celebrates simplicity and understated choices.

It focuses on the intrinsic value as well as quality of products and experiences. It embraces a more intimate and sophisticated expressions of luxury.

Mood board workshop area brown expoxy flooring,exposed concrete ceiling and brown sandstone on walls

Essence of chandni chowk Recently revamped road and pathways made to blend in with the essence of mughal character of the area,using red sandstone and white marble.

The material pallete on the roof is a reflection of the environment surrounding the site,draws inspiration from Fatehpuri masjid and red fort and the rich mughal culture of chandni chowk.

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Zari Zardozi house-Reception and waiting

The view shows the main reception area with a central embossed display of zari zardozi patterns,the theme is light soothing colors,along with the display of the exclusive collection

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Zari Zardozi house-AI Assisted showroom

The image shows the interior of the showroom with tables that have RFID tag readers that are connected to smart screen displays and people coming to the showroom can customise the design patterns provided from the cataloges according to their preference.

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Zari Zardozi house-AI Assisted showroom

The image shows the interior of the showroom with tables that have RFID tag readers that are connected to smart screen displays and people coming to the showroom can customise the design patterns provided from the cataloges according to their preference.

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Exploaded view of showroom 6 mm metal jali powder coated with golden paint welded to form a four sided enclosure

Pneumatic lift for the transfer of fabric and raw materials between the showroom and workshop

Smart screens for the display and augmentation of fabric pattern for customisation

Wall mimics the folding of a fabric roll with embossed zari zardozi pattern

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Exploaded view of workshop on First floor Pneumatic lift for the transfer of fabric and raw materials between the showroom and workshop

Storage of raw materials in separate plastic tubes with manual dispenser system

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Exploaded view of workshop on Second floor The Tedious process of punching and tracing the design on to the fabric before embroidery has been mechanised to enhance the speed of the entire embroidery work.

Manual electronic machines that ramp up the process of embroidery but they are very precise as each stich is manually controlled.

Rolls of unstiched fabric to be used by workers ,each role has a scale and cutting rod in front,the exact amount can be measured and cut.

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Workshop on Second floor

The image shows the interior of the workshop with ample sunlight and natural light for effective functioning and well being of the embroiders ,it highlights the manual raw material dispenser tubes ,that can be used to effectively store and reduce the wastage of raw materials such as beads and sequins.

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Workshop on First Floor

The image shows the workshop area which is more open ,vibrant and interactive It highlights the fixed position of raw materials kept in an organised manner.It also highlights the handmade zari area that is supplied by a pneumatic lift.

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Workshop on Second Floor

The view shows the hand embroidery area of the zari zardozi house,the area is made using adjustable tables that can adjusted as per the demand ,the space is more open and interactive and has a good amount of natural lighting.

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Rooftop cafe On Terrace Floor

The cafe connects the whole site to the nearby spaces of chandni chowk visually ,hence the use of glass panels and lightweight wooden frames to allowvisual connectivity to the nearby streets and market.

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Rooftop cafe On Terrace Floor

The view highlights the Rooftop cafe that provides views of the famous landmarks in the area such as Red fort and the newly revamped road.

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Front View of Zari Zardozi House

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Ground Floor Plan- Scale 1:75

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First Floor Plan -Scale 1:75

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Second Floor Plan -Scale 1:75

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Terrace Floor Plan -Scale 1:75

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Section AA’ -Scale 1:75

Exhibit display

1700 1000 Reception and waiting

Storage area

296 304 3150

3600

1800

Handmade zari embroidery area

False ceiling Area for services

AI Assisted showroom

Smart screen

3601

1200 300

Manual Machine Embroidery area

1501

3000

Storage area

Smart screen

300

1200

Handmade zari embroidery area

1500

3000

450

1950

Rooftop cafe

1950

Exhibit display

450

2954

854

14300

Section AA'

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Section - BB’- Scale 1:75

13000 8635

1030

1002

Rooftop cafe

1200

1100 300

Hydraulic lift

Service window

1254

600

1878

1500

Handmade zari embroidery area

1204

300

Hydraulic lift

Hydraulic lift

1497

Handmade zari embroidery area

2700

False ceiling Area for services

AI Assisted showroom

1050

Hydraulic lift

Section BB'

34

Front Elevation- Scale 1:75

955

Led screen

Column with marble cladding

Zari Zardozi House

300

2188

3938

1082

742

300

2954

8245

Front Elevation

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Zari zardozi House Handmade embroidery future infused with pragmatic Technology

A Zari Zardozi House for high end clientele in Chandni chowk housing an AI assisted showroom and workshop customizing the entieprocess of Zari zardozi. The showroom and workshop are driven by pragmatic technology, enhancing the pace of work with manual electronic machines and smart screens for selection and customization , supported by AI. similar to the smart mirrors, technology can help customers from product discovery and styling inspiration, to instant checkout. They can display color and size options, or available in-store items that the AI system thinks would be a match to complete the look or other visually similar products.

Creation of AI assisted store will increase the footfall of the space, Making the shopping experience more convenient, customisable and user friendly using AI tools ,also provides store specific data , helps in reducing wastage and helps to understand the shopping trends in a better way.combing the benefits of both online and offline stores having a manufacturing unit of it’s own Increasing the production capacity, making it a one stop solution for all demands of Zari and zardozi.

Innovating, experimenting and preserving the by-gone techniques and heritage , the atelier will house designers and embroidery specialists with experience in various design fields including hand embroidery, Zari, kadai work for bridal wear, digital embroidery design,fashion .Aimed at showcasing the fashion industry to a wider audience and clients worldwide.

The Studio is led by design practitioners and experts with an industry experience. In addition, heavily in the most-cutting edge range of equipment. Becoming forefront of embroidery innovation. As a result, combining traditional and modern techniques and processes to innovative fruition.

Organization of embroidery specialists with experience in various design fields which includes hand embroidery, digital embroidery design, costume, ceremonial, fashion and art. With a variety of industry professionals.If required the designer will create an artwork for the client to approve before embroiderers begin work. An in house service where the embroidery work is completed in the studio.Enhancing the process of hand embroidery.

Reducing the capacity of wholesale and ready to wear items,the store is made more exclusive.

The entire process of Zari making under one roof in order to allow experimentation ,customisation ,merging with other trends Creation of workshop for Handmade Zari work. Design- led interventions that put craftspeople on par with designer, or at least afford them a level playing field, as each piece of hand embroidery is unique it has a high collective value , use of manual and semi automatic-machines for mass production to Enhance the footprint and making it accessible to different user groups.

“Design- led interventions that help craftspeople gain identity , or at least afford them a level playing field, could bring back the renaissance to the handicraft industries of the world” , improving the technology and speed to production, skill training and collaboration with industry experts, adhering to international standards. “Design- led interventions that put craftspeople on par with designer, bringing back the renaissance to the handicraft industries of the world.

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