Kingpins Quarterly Fall 2024

VOLUME FIVE

FALL 2024

DIVERSIFICATION DILEMMA The denim industry weighs the risks and rewards of a decentralized apparel sourcing matrix

KINGPINS ANNIVERSARY ISSUE

V O L U M E F I V E, F A L L 2 0 2 4

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Denim's Enduring Evolution

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more is more

A look back and ahead at the denim industry past,

How the denim industry is learning to make the tradeoffs

present and future proves the only constant is change.

associated with diversifying apparel sourcing work in its favor.

Fashion, Feminism & the Future

26 Garbage In, Garbage Out?

Ayesha Barenblat, founder & CEO of Remake, shares how

Jeanologia’s EIM system was once seen as a panacea for

the Instagram generation is galvanizing social change IRL.

measuring a garment’s environmental impact but now new questions are arising about its effectiveness.

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On the Show Floor Your first look at the top news, notes and highlights from Kingpins Amsterdam exhibitors.

28 Egypt's Denim Prospects Investments—both foreign and domestic—are laying the groundwork for continued growth in the region

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20/10 In 2024, Kingpins celebrates two decades in New York, 10 years in Amsterdam, and the bright future of the denim industry.

ANDREW OLAH Founder CALETHA CRAWFORD Editorial Director COLIN BEAUCHEMIN Creative Director VIVIAN WANG Managing Director/ Global Sales Manager GORDON HEFFNER Director, Media & Retail FOR ADVERTISING INQUIRIES

KI NG PI NSQUA RTE RLY.CO M

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K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

Contact Vivian Wang at vivian@kingpinsshow.com

FOUNDER'S LETTER Stretching into the Future Kingpins this year was full of new things, new ideas,

impacting people’s lives in unimaginable ways.

USA, there are entire cities that run exclusively on renewables, including Burlington, VT, Georgetown,

programs and anniversaries. The show started as you all probably know 20 years ago this past July

Solution: Governments will need to invest heavily

TX, Greensburg, KS, Columbia MD, Aspen CO. A

and Amsterdam started 10 years ago this past April.

in cleaning and reusing their waste water. Recently I

couple of years ago, the entire state of California

We’ve clapped our hands enough about our lucky

heard the World Bank gave $100 million to a factory

ran for 30 consecutive days only on renewable

and interesting past. It’s time to talk about change.

in Bangladesh to make more jeans and more denim

energy! The solution is clear. And there is enormous

Here, I share my vision for the future of the denim

fabric. Bad Idea. In our industry, the World Bank

work going on to develop industrial batteries that

industry—and hopefully what I write will sound

should only invest in water treatment. There is no

can store vast amounts of energy, and I mean big

prescient 20 years from now.

need to “buy” water if you take waste and make it

amounts—enough to run an airport or a denim mill.

new again and again and again.

Indigo Problem: Everyone knows indigo dye needs

Future: In the next 20 years, a huge portion of our The second solution is water harvesting.

world will run on renewables. What a great outlook.

environmental and geo-political. From a

Future: Brands are unlikely to pay their suppliers to

Prices

sustainability perspective, it uses too much water

do this. And this problem is so large and expensive

Problem: The saddest change in my career has

because indigo dye has no affinity to cellulose

that it cannot be resolved on a company-by-

been the price degradation of our industry.

and needs to be dyed repeatedly, and it uses too

company basis. Clearly if only recycled water is

Product prices continually face pressure to

much energy, obviously.

used in our industry we have virtually no water issues.

decrease while marketers take great profit from

to be replaced for a bunch of reasons—both

Governments must commit to provide their citizens

brainwashing consumers into believing jeans can

Solution: Over the years various people have

water forever otherwise water poor nations will

be cheaper than they ever imagined—so cheap

come up with possible bio-engineered solutions

suffer severely. I’m not sure if I believe this will occur

they can buy them anytime.

but those have been rejected due to cost. There

but how can a nation exist without water?

are still options for using other chemicals or dyes

All of this comes from too much supply and too

to replicate indigo but so far none have been

Energy

much demand by retailers and brands to grow. A

adopted in a large scale. YET.

Problem: Currently 80 percent of the world’s

modest 3 percent growth desire exponentially

energy comes from oil, gas or coal. In my estimation,

over 20 years is 80 percent more.

Future: The industry has so far selected to ignore the

that percentage is much higher in our industry. This

obvious, but indigo will not be used 20 years from

has huge negative impacts on our carbon footprint

Solutions: Make less. Brands and retailers should

now. Sooner or later a wild anti-indigo campaign will

and leads us, as we are all aware, to all sorts of

make more money but not through lowering costs

explode out of nowhere and force change.

political problems, fights and uncomfortable

endlessly and making suppliers lose. Make laws

partnerships because we need oil or petroleum

that force full transparency so low-end products

products.

that cheat the systems (CSR or environmental) are

Water Problem: Check out the World Bank’s country by country list of cubic freshwater per person*. There

Solution: Of course there should be change

governments need to force brands and retailers to

you will see that the countries where we make

towards renewable energy. Seven countries now

pay living wages to all workers rather than minimum

most of our jeans—Bangladesh, Pakistan, Egypt,

generate all of their energy from renewable sources,

wages.

Morocco, Tunisia and Jordan—have the least water

according to figures from the International Energy

or, in some cases, virtually no water at all!

Agency (IEA) and International Renewable Energy

Future: With a little legislative help, great things

Agency (IRENA). More than 99.7 percent of electricity

can come.

Just as climate change has affected everyone

in Albania, Bhutan, Ethiopia, Iceland, Nepal, Paraguay

through floods, fires, tornadoes, hurricanes and

and the Democratic Republic of Congo comes

By Andrew Olah

droughts, water shortage will be very real soon,

from geothermal, hydro, solar or wind power. In the

Founder, Kingpins

* https://data.worldbank.org/indicator/ER.H2O.INTR.PC?locations=US

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denied entry into Europe and USA etc. Further,

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emake is founded on the idea of ‘radical disruption.’

KPQ DENIM MASTERS

FASHION, FEMINISM & THE FUTURE Ayesha Barenblat, founder & CEO of Remake, shares how the Instagram generation is galvanizing social change IRL.

The organization leverages everything from social media to public policy to make equitable business practices and mindful consumption a reality. In addition to partnerships with the Clean Clothes Campaign, the International Labor Organization and other likeminded NGOs, Remake’s community organizing efforts have provoked more than 2,000 young people around the globe to join in the fight for human rights and climate justice.

“The real way to really get citizens to care is to build that local organizing machinery the same way as unions do it. That’s what we need. We need sort of union machinery for citizens, and that’s what we’re out here to do,” said Ayesha Barenblat, founder & CEO of Remake.

Here, Barenblat and Kingpins founder Andrew Olah discuss what makes the organization’s results-driven, multi-stakeholder strategy successful and why fashion is a feminist issue.

AO: On your website, you have the saying, ‘Wear Your Values.’ How do we make consumers aware that they can connect a purchase with values?

AB: When I founded Remake, it was with this idea of remaking connections with the often-hidden underbelly of the fashion supply chain. You don’t see garment workers. Who is she? I say she because of the 70 million people who make our clothes, it’s mostly women, mostly black and brown women that look like me. And I really believe that to get citizens to care, first you can’t shame people. It’s hard to build a movement around rage and shame. And so, the idea with ‘Wear Your Values’ was really an invitation.

What I like to say is, ‘If you care about and believe that women should be paid fairly, if you care about the climate crisis, if you care about sustainability, if you care about dignity of work, then our movement is for you.’

And so rather than telling citizens what they should care about, it’s more an invitation into what is your value system. Because if you say you’re a feminist and then you’re buying Shein and workers are making three cents for the product, then what does that say about you? If you say you care deeply about the

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climate crisis, but most of what’s sitting in your closet

brands paid had remained relatively flat, even

the UK, in the U.S., are finally paying attention, I think

is polyester fossil fuel, then are you really shopping

though Bangladesh is such an important production

it’s hopeful. In the U.S., there’s bipartisan support for

your values?

hub. The Asia Floor Wage Alliance did a study that

closing the de minimis loophole. If we’re saying

even if you had two family members, a husband and

Shein workers are producing something like 35,000

AO: Your organization says it is based on uniting

wife, working in the garment sector, workers were

to 100,000 items daily. Today, they’re 1/5 of the global

unlikely allies across the fashion ecosystem, from

reporting not enough to have a sufficient caloric diet,

fast fashion market, and then they’re able to, through

influencers, creatives and brand executives to

that they were skipping meals to meet expenses. All

a loophole of $800 shipments, not pay custom tax,

unions, legislators and garment workers locking arms

they were asking for was something like $208 a month.

that’s problematic. And that’s where we have that sort

to fight for change. Please share an example of how

I think it’s very telling that for 30 years of voluntary

of down market, ultra-fast fashion pushing on wages

that works.

corporate responsibility, CSR programs and codes

and why we see conditions across the fashion supply

of conduct, we have not really made a dent when it

chain be so problematic.

AB: The issues of the fashion industry are wicked

comes to living wages.

AO: Can you talk about your Pay Up campaign?

problems, and it’s not as if one thoughtful brand, one thoughtful labor organization, can do it alone. So, to

AO: But the discussion of Bangladesh, to me on the

give you a very specific example, in Los Angeles—

outside, seemed like it was with the government

AB: We are going to be a decade old this year.

right here in my home state of California, home to

and the labor unions. It seemed to me to be odd,

And I would say in all my years of doing this work,

where we have most domestic production left in the

because I don’t think the garment factories have any

probably I am proudest of the Pay Up campaign. To

United States—until 2022, most workers were making

problem raising the prices if the brands will accept it.

sort of take you back to March 2020 when U.S. apparel

piece rate, making a few cents per seam and taking

consumption dropped within that very first month by

home very little money. We locked arms with a lot of

AB: Exactly right. We wrote to all the top producing

89 percent. What fashion brands across the board did

very unlikely allies. Front out the gate was the Garment

brands in Bangladesh at the time of the crisis, to say,

was cancel orders using the force majeure clause,

Worker Center, who was organizing workers. But then

‘can you support, can you lend your voice?’ And

which is perfectly legal, but what that meant is that

we brought on lots of thoughtful small businesses

outside of Patagonia, you couldn’t get any brand to

workers around the world were not going to get

like Reformation and Christy Dawn, who said we can’t

do it. And really, Patagonia has such a small footprint

paid. These are not people with savings so much to

compete with the predatory behavior of brands like

in the country. So, all that to say, brands then tend to

fall back on.

Forever 21 and so we endorsed this bill. We also had

hide behind this idea of this is between the labor

a lot of young people write to Governor Newsom,

movement and the government and the national

We welcomed labor groups, but also manufacturers,

take to canvassing to really ensure that our bill, the

sovereignty of Bangladesh, and we don’t want to

campaigners, into closed door meetings, and

Garment Worker Protection Act, was in the media and

interfere. But again, the prices they pay are directly

the Pay Up campaign was born. We were sharing

was getting the social media attention that it needed.

correlated with why we keep seeing minimum

information. We had Labour Behind the Label, Clean

And so all said and done, we built this very unlikely

wages not going up. So, it’s a little bit of a tongue in

Clothes Campaign, Extinction Rebellion. All said and

coalition of small brand executives, union leaders,

cheek really. I don’t think any brand should talk about

done, the Pay Up campaign was able to get more

thoughtful legislators in the California Senate and

being a sustainable leader unless they’re willing to talk

than 20 brands to reverse that decision of canceling

House, as well as garment workers, and I’m happy

about wages.

orders, over $20 billion of contracts were reinstated,

to share in 2022, we passed the Garment Worker

which meant millions of people at the height of the

Protection Act, which is the first of its kind, that has up

AO: The laws all seem very complex, very

chain accountability for brands and retailers, holding

convoluted, very unreal. What is really going on and

them legally liable for wage theft.

what really will actually happen in let’s say the next

At a time when we couldn’t be out on the streets

year or two?

protesting. Instagram became so important. There

AO: Why aren’t brands judged by whether they have

pandemic were paid.

were so many influencers, young people. Some

a company policy to have living wages for all their

AB: I’d say first and foremost, not all laws are good

brands later behind the scenes told me, ‘How did this

products? I don’t understand it.

laws, and not all policy is a good thing. When you

become [so] viral in public consciousness that there

look at the rash of transparency and reporting bills,

were people holding up signs saying, pay up, pay up,

AB: All roads lead back to living wages and the fact

what we haven’t seen is any kind of real impact in

pay up?’ And it became untenable for brands to take

that we are simply not paying people enough to

terms of more humane conditions for workers and

that position. And that’s the kind of reputation damage

make our clothes today. Thinking about Bangladesh—

even a dent when it comes to emissions and the

that renders results.

and we were heavily involved with our Bangladesh

climate crisis. It’s really important that any laws, any

garment worker partners—the ask back in the fall was

bills, are really centering the communities that they

Listen to Andrew’s full conversation with Ayesha and

very simple. Workers were up against skyrocketing

profess to serve and that worker partners have a seat

other denim industry insiders in the Kingpins podcast,

inflation and currency devaluation, and the prices

at the table. [But] the fact that lawmakers in Europe, in

Denim Talks.

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ON THE SHOW FLOOR

credit: Team Peter Stigter

ARTISTIC MILLINERS ACQUIRES VF FACTORY IN MEXICO Investment will transform the facility into a state-of-the-art denim factory serving SFI’s growing nearshoring network within AM’s global ecosystem.

Artistic Milliners is celebrating the latest milestone

SFI Los Angeles design center and laundry, as well

growing nearshoring network is SFI-Los Angeles,

in the strategic expansion of its nearshoring

as SFI’s Central America operations and strategic

the design center and denim laundry Artistic

operations in the Western Hemisphere with the

partnerships in Mexico and Guatemala.

Milliners acquired in 2020.

The Parras facility, which first opened in 1996, is a

Artistic Milliners’ global footprint is designed to

vast complex spread over 10 acres consisting of

serve the needs of its international customer base

The Artistic Milliners portfolio of companies is a

two buildings. Plans call for a rapid build out of

of retailers and brands. The company’s network

vertical ecosystem that strives for excellence in

Artistic Milliners Mexico operations over the next

of strategic partnerships as well as wholly owned

every facet of its operation. The investment means

six months to modernize the Parras facility, creating

facilities provides seamless integration of design,

the company can immediately begin upgrading

Mexico’s next denim factory of the future.

laundry, and global sourcing solutions.

purchase of VF’s Dickies de Parras S. de RL de CV facility in Parras, Mexico.

the denim factory in Mexico on an expedited timeline and can soon offer even more services to

The acquisition of the VF factory complements

retailers and brands looking to manufacture closer

AM’s growing network of factories in Guatemala

to the United States.

and Mexico. The company recently opened an SFI office in Guatemala City and forged strategic

810

Artistic Milliners Mexico joins the company’s

partnerships with sourcing facilities in Guatemala,

existing nearshoring operations that includes the

Mexico and the United States. At the hub of this

K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

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THE ECHO EFFECT OF BLUESIGN Becoming a System Partner Creates a Powerful Moment of Change Across a Complete Global Supply Chain The recent announcements of leading brands,

uphold the highest chemical safety standards

the stringent environmental and social criteria set

Dondup in Italy and Madewell from the USA,

throughout its supply chain.

by bluesign.

a pivotal shift in the fashion industry. These

The ripple effect of these partnerships extends

With mega brands like Madewell and Dondup

partnerships exemplify the “echo effect” as

well beyond Dondup and Madewell. As

leading the charge, the fashion industry is

bluesign’s clean chemistry and clean production

bluesign’s clean chemistry and clean production

undergoing a transformative moment. This

practices permeate a global supply chain. This

practices are implemented in the brand supply

movement not only fosters a safer, more

effect transcends individual brands, manufacturers,

chain, mills, laundries, and even raw material

sustainable fashion ecosystem but also

materials, and suppliers, triggering a chain reaction

providers are encouraged to adopt similar

sets a precedent for how industries can

that promotes the widespread adoption of

standards. With Dondup and Madewell’s

collaboratively drive change, ensuring that

environmental and social responsibility.

participation, their suppliers are now in the

ethical and environmental considerations are

process of becoming bluesign partners

prioritized at every level of the supply chain.

becoming bluesign system partners started

Renowned for its commitment to premium

as well. Manufacturers with no critical non-

Italian-made fashion, Dondup has consistently

conformities after the bluesign on-site facility

emphasized craftsmanship and attention to

assessment can advance to system partnership

detail. Now, by aligning with the bluesign

and begin implementing the bluesign System.

system, Dondup is advancing its mission to

This cascading effect ensures that every aspect

minimize environmental impact, connect with a

of the production process—from chemical

new generation of conscious consumers, and

suppliers to material manufacturers—aligns with

NAVEENA DENIM - NDL: INNOVATING WITH AERO-SOFT TECHNOLOGY The Pakistan-based firm’s latest innovation leverages cotton for superior comfort “Designers, brands, and fashion lovers all prioritize a

alternative materials. With Pakistan as the world’s fifth

traditional denim, fabric becomes progressively

soft hand feel when it comes to fabric,” commented

largest cotton producer, Naveena Denim – NDL has

softer with each wash, with improved moisture

Rashid Iqbal, executive director for Naveena Denim

direct access to high-quality, locally grown cotton,

management and breathability.

– NDL. The Pakistan-based firm’s latest collection

ensuring a reliable and consistent supply. This

tackles the challenges of denim’s hand feel and

proximity helps minimize environmental impact and

This combination of reduced chemical use,

sustainability with a groundbreaking approach. “We

supports a commitment to sustainability.

increased comfort and superior durability presents

have achieved an unparalleled level of softness and

a high-performance solution for modern denim

breathability by integrating a unique technology,

While traditional denim often uses chemical

needs. “This breakthrough not only redefines the

Aero-Soft, into our new fabric collection,” he said.

treatments to achieve softness, sustainability is

feel of denim but also aligns with our commitment

compromised. Aero-Soft technology eliminates the

to sustainability, offering a luxurious yet eco-friendly

need for these chemicals.

alternative in the market,” according to Iqbal.

This unique spinning technique creates a plush and airy fabric that achieves incredible softness, comfort and breathability. While many denim producers rely

Aero-Soft denim technology also enhances the

on man-made fibers for softness, we have chosen

fabric’s bulkiness, improving moisture absorbency

to harness the natural properties of cotton,” the exec

and air permeability. Iqbal maintains “the fabric looks

explained. By utilizing cotton, a high standard of

heavy but is actually light and airy, giving you a plush

softness and luxury is maintained without needing

feel that is soft on your skin and breathable.” Unlike

K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

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PERFORMANCE DENIM BOOSTS WEARABILITY & LOYALTY

For consumers who opt to put their denim to the

elasticity without relying on chemistry, elastomeric

test in the elements, STORM COTTON technology

yarns, or synthetic yarns, which is a major bonus as the

outperforms typical durable water repellent treatments

industry continues to push toward circularity.

TM

in terms of both breathability and durability. The finish repels liquids while still allowing moisture vapor to pass

Nothing says value more than a garment shoppers can

through the fabric, keeping the wearer comfortable

keep in regular rotation over the long haul. With that

and dry. Moreover, it’s designed to last the lifetime of

in mind, TOUGH COTTONTM technology protects the look of garments, through extended wear and multiple

How Cotton Incorporated enhances the fit, comfort and durability of cotton jeans

the garment. The STORM COTTONTM technology finish is primarily applied in garment form after any decorative

laundry cycles. This treatment keeps cotton fibers

finishes, dyes, and laser treatments.

strong, ensuring a combination of abrasion resistance,

C

one example of how performance technologies can

onsumers have very specific thoughts on both how they want to look and how they

strength and colorfastness that ensures wearers look Lukowiak said STORM COTTONTM technology is just help brands differentiate themselves in the market.

want to feel in their clothes. And it’s no surprise

great season after season.

Breathability is one key reason consumers seek out cotton in their wardrobes. And TransDRY® technology ups the comfort ante with moisture

that denim continues to play a pivotal role in

management that moves sweat from the inside

how consumers express their personal style.

to the outside of the garment away from the

Jeans in particular continue to be a beloved

body, keeping wearers cooler and drier than

wardrobe staple—with more than a third of

synthetic options.

shoppers reaching for them over other choices*.

Performance technologies promise to continue

It’s not just trends that are influencing the consumers’

to drive the demand for denim by offering value

style preferences either. With environmental

to both consumers and brands.

changes bringing more unpredictable and more uncomfortable weather, researchers at Cotton

Cotton Incorporated is driving this evolution with

Incorporated are also working to make cotton

innovations that enhance the wearability and

fabrics meet the needs of the consumer. “We are

durability of these beloved garments. Already,

working diligently to enhance the performance

shoppers overwhelmingly (more than 70 percent)

of cotton while highlighting its natural attributes,”

prefer jeans made of cotton or cotton blend.*

said Mary Ankeny, vice president of product

Through these performance treatments, Cotton

development and implementation operations

Incorporated is delivering even more ways for

at Cotton Incorporated. “The products we use in

consumers to enjoy cotton denim garments in their

technology development are thoughtfully chosen

active, busy lifestyles.

based on chemical content and are designed for performance. Breathability, softness, and durability

“We work very closely with our partner brands to extract key takeaways which highlight the

Cotton Incorporated.

not only makes cotton the fabric of tomorrow, but also the fabric of now.”

features, attributes, and benefits of our performance technologies,” said Jennifer Lukowiak, Cotton

“Shoppers look for value, an understanding of what they

Incorporated’s director of supply chain marketing.

are paying for,” she said. “When we have the opportunity

Cotton Incorporated continues to expand its portfolio of performance technologies to allow consumers to

to provide brands with cotton apparel that not only

get more of what they love from their cotton denim

The focus for the innovations are comfort, fit and

performs but is made more durable with an applied finish

pieces, and ultimately, those positive experiences

quality, which happen to be the top purchase drivers

that is versatile, breathable, and utilizes clean chemistry—

promise repeat purchases. “These technologies can

when shoppers are looking for new jeans.* To

that really resonates with the end user.”

absolutely boost consumer loyalty—cotton clothing

address these concerns, Cotton Incorporated has

that performs while remaining durable and breathable

developed performance technologies to further

With the variety of fashion trends on the market, ranging

enhance the look, feel and wear of garments made

from skinny to barrel, fit is more important than ever.

from cotton fibers. From working out to going out,

For those shoppers opting for close-fitting styles,

To learn more about denim innovations,

and off-road adventures and in-office meetings, these

NATURAL STRETCH technology offers a mechanical

please visit CottonWorks.com.

technologies are designed to provide value through

stretch designed for 100 percent cotton-woven

the use of clean chemistry.

fabrics. NATURAL STRETCH technology maintains its

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is a benefit to the consumer,” Lukowiak said.

*Denim Jeans Outlook – Supply Chain Insights 2024

20/10 FE AT U RE

In 2024, Kingpins celebrates two decades in New York, 10 years in Amsterdam, and the bright future of the denim industry.

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By Milliron Studios; Powered by Team Peter Stigter.

20 Years & Counting

Kingpins’ 20th anniversary year has us reminiscing

party, but once denim industry colleagues got

about this grand adventure that has taken us around

involved, it became something larger. That is also a

the world.

hallmark of a Kingpins show. We love working with

As much as Kingpins has evolved over the years, the basic DNA of the brand has stayed the same.

was more like a party than a traditional trade show.

BY VIVIAN WANG KINGPINS SHOW MANAGING DIRECTOR & GLOBAL SALES MANAGER

our friends in the denim community. If we think trying When Andrew Olah first came up with the idea

something new will make for a better show, we’re not

for the show, it was meant to be a small event that

afraid to take risks and experiment.

In many ways, it still is. That feeling of camaraderie

I designed the logo and invitation for that first

is one of the many things that makes Kingpins

Kingpins show in New York, but I officially joined

successful. When people are at the show, they are

the team when Andrew decided to branch out

working. But we are all also learning and meeting

to Los Angeles and he asked me to organize

new people and spending time with longtime

the new show. I had been working as a graphic

friends and colleagues.

designer for several denim brands, but I’d never produced a trade show. Andrew told me to think

That first show was intended to be a small, intimate

of it as throwing a party for family and friends—and K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

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CELEBRATING 20 YEARS

to create a space where everyone would be

We pivoted again when the

so comfortable they’d want to stick around a

pandemic forced us to cancel

while. That was great advice. The Kingpins team

our shows, first Amsterdam, then

continues to work hard to build a welcoming

New York, then China. Again, we

environment. We take care to design

experimented, taking the show

installations that inspire, organize discussions

online to create Kingpins24. And

that educate and host workshops that give

again, our community rose to the

attendees a chance to flex their creative

challenge, helping us organize

muscles together.

a 24-hour live show, plus ondemand educational content.

The show continued to expand to new cities.

Eventually, we were producing about a dozen

When we finally met in person

shows around the world. It seemed like we

again, we returned first to New

were always jetting off somewhere: From New

York and Amsterdam. It took

York to Los Angeles to Hong Kong to Shanghai to

some time to return to mainland

Delhi to Bangalore to Mumbai. We were about

China, which we did this year

to add an eighth city—Dhaka—to the lineup

in Hangzhou. In the meantime,

when we stopped and reconsidered whether

we went back to our roots with

this expansion was sustainable. Did we want to

smaller, more-intimate events, first

be taking everyone on this wild, worldwide

in Colombia, then Hong Kong.

ride year after year? Or did we want to focus on creating a must-attend show just a few times

In many ways, Kingpins has

a year in a few cities? The next year, we hosted

remained consistent over the

our first show in Amsterdam, alongside shows in

years. Our shows tend to be

New York and China.

in interesting venues, with a convivial atmosphere and a good balance of work, education, inspiration and community.

But the show, like the denim industry, has changed and evolved. Andrew has always been an advocate for sustainability—perhaps even before many of our denim colleagues. As the greater community became as passionate about creating a cleaner, safer, smarter denim industry, sustainability and the idea of responsible denim took an even greater role in our programing.

Since the beginning, the denim community has been the heart of Kingpins. More than a party or a trade show, Kingpins is also a platform where people can meet their friends—old and new— and it’s a venue where people can talk freely about their passion for denim. It’s also a place where people can feel comfortable discussing their challenges, and it’s a forum where they can find solutions together. That is what makes Kingpins so special and so unique. It’s not just an event, it’s an experience, and it’s an attitude.

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Denim's Enduring Evolution

is in sourcing. Once denim was only produced in

China, Pakistan, Bangladesh, etc. By 1979, China

the United States and basically every jean sold in

was shipping lots of jeans to the USA, and the

America was made in America. By the time I started

demand for domestic jeans had almost completely

my career in the mid 1970’s, denim was being

disappeared. The best example was Levi Strauss.

produced throughout Europe and Japan to support

In the 1980’s Levi’s had 634 factories. Today, no Levi’s

those markets. In the USA the greater majority of jeans

factories remain in the United States or in the EU. I

consumed were still made in the United States. By the

remember going to a meeting at Levi’s in the mid

early 80’s production of jeans moved to the “Three

90’s and being told that the company was redefining

A look back and ahead at the denim industry past, present and future proves the only constant is change.

Tigers” (Hong Kong, Taiwan and Korea), and denim

itself from a manufacturing company to a marketing

textile mills were built to support the American and

company, leaving the manufacturing to its suppliers.

BY ANDREW OLAH

European demand. Their prices were inexpensive and their ability to produce fashion garments were

If we look at the jeans industry today, our best

critical to the demand they created.

guess is that 2 million jeans are made in the United States, a country where more than 700 million are

But eventually, the U.S. government placed quotas

consumed. All the rest (with a few exceptions) come

on the number of jeans allowed in from Hong

from (in no specific order), Bangladesh, China, Egypt,

As we all know our industry has changed

Kong. And similar quotas followed for goods

India, Mexico, Morocco, Pakistan, Tunisia and Africa.

enormously over the years. The biggest change

made in Taiwan, then Indonesia, then others like

K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

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The European story is much the same, although

difficult for foreign mills to supply reliable quality

future. By consolidation, I mean mills will either

Turkey has played a key role in the supply to the EU

and satisfy American denim brands.

own a factory in each global sourcing region or

and had a much more diverse production history

partner with their former competitors from these

than Mexico had to the USA. While Mexico has

Labor: Garment making is labor intensive and the

regions. In this way there will be only ONE group of

always played a role supplying basic jeans, Turkey

cost of sewing a garment was and still is wildly

products, chemicals, etc that buy as one unit taking

could and did produce any style and was always

different in what was once called developing

advantages of scale.

flexible on quantity.

nations in the 1970’s versus costs in America or

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS

We are basically a transient industry, where

Europe. Low labor costs led the Global North to

It’s only logical that if suppliers want to earn more

essentially give up manufacturing in the 1980’s.

in a sustainable commercial manner, their service

factories can move around, have and will continue

needs to be upgraded and the only way to do

to do so. Even laundries have been known to

Knowhow: The top denim professionals in our

that is to take sourcing away from their customers

disappear on a weekend and move to another

industry developed their skills in the USA originally,

altogether with those customers only focusing on

more profitable location.

then Europe and Japan experts eventually ended

design (maybe even that eventually becomes a

up finding work outside of their homelands.

supplier service) and marketing to consumers.

Americans helped the denim industry develop

How we got here

skills in Europe, then Hong Kong and so on and

And on that note, we might come to a day where

So, what facilitated 98 percent of American jean

Europeans helped Turkey and Pakistan build their

suppliers will have the wherewithal to say no to

production being taken away? I think this occurred

denim industries.

lower prices. As suppliers are noticing what Shein

for three reasons.

has done and asking themselves, “why can’t we do that?”, the answer is “you can!” It’s likely that

Machinery: The indigo dyeing machine

The future

suppliers will make efforts in the future to transact

companies that supplied American denim mills their

The status of today’s industry is the natural and

directly with consumers and strategize how to

equipment or those that sold to European mills sold

continual development of this old tired model.

skip over their current buyers or just keep the

the same machinery to others throughout the world

Buyers seek lower prices, factories seek margin

customers that suit them.

making hardware universal. To this day Morrison

and workers who supply the highest value

Textile Machinery Company remains one of the

earn the least. One day made in America, one

Kingpins has a long-term place in the market as an

most important indigo dye machine companies

day made in Hong Kong, one day China and

industry event putting buyers and sellers together.

in America and sells and exists by selling their

one day Bangladesh. Nothing changes but the

Perhaps by our next anniversary, the show will

machines throughout the world. Without Morrison

sourcing country.

blend consumers into its mix. If I had to bet, I’d totally

machines in denim plants in Bangladesh, China, Pakistan and Turkey, it would have been much more

IF WE LOOK AT THE JEANS INDUSTRY TODAY, OUR BEST GUESS IS THAT 2 MILLION JEANS ARE MADE IN THE UNITED STATES, A COUNTRY WHERE MORE THAN 700 MILLION ARE CONSUMED. 16

K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

bet on that.

One has to accept that today’s industry lies in the hands of Bangladesh, Pakistan and countries with

Lastly, if we let our minds go free and insert a vision

super low wages where free trade exists and

based on technology, we might see a future of

there is easy access to the EU and U.S. like Egypt,

robotic production in both textiles and apparel.

which to me is a huge production opportunity

The future might have domestic factories if there

reminding me of Bangladesh in the mid 1990’s.

are no people involved or those people are

I would also suggest that low labor cost and

imported. One might imagine a day where all fibers

low access to unionization are critical elements

used in mass apparel sales are man-made, including

to production sourcing. With all respect to the

cellulose, and dyes are all bio-engineered. I’m not

countries I mentioned above, one has to also

sure all this can happen in a diffused industry that

include amazing producing nations like China or

on the supply side can’t consistently make profits

Vietnam, neither of which share the same mission

and runs through a tired boring paradigm. Not sure

of democracy that exists in Sweden, Holland or

where major investment would come from, but I’m

Canada—or even Costa Rica.

not that worried. Blockbuster never thought Netflix was an idea worthy of their investment. The jean

Our industry has too many denim mills, too many

industry has Blockbusters on every corner. A Netflix

garment factories and too many industrialists

will arrive one day and the old paradigm will be

investing (often using other entities’ money) to

gone the way the transistor radio left our world.

capture too few orders. This reality cannot exist for long, and I see a huge consolidation in the

Impressions in Indigo As the Kingpins brand pushes forward, we take a moment to reflect on all of the moments both big and small that have gone into shaping the shows into an influential platform for the denim industry.

BY DOROTHY CROUCH

advocacy for transparency, cleaner denim and responsible practices propelled the integration and showcase of sustainable technologies and materials.

It provides exposure to a global network of likeminded professionals to foster collaborations and knowledge sharing, and maintains high standards for sustainable advancements.

Alberto de Conti Head of Hub1922 RUDOLF Kingpins started very modestly as a bit more than just a party, but today the event brings together all the key players in the denim supply chain and encourages collaboration and networking. It currently facilitates

As Kingpins celebrates a double anniversary this year, members of the community it helped create

KINGPINS PLAYS A KEY ROLE IN BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN BRANDS, MANUFACTURERS AND CONSUMERS, FOSTERING A SENSE OF COMMUNITY.

the sharing of best practices across the industry. This is the main reason Kingpins plays such an important role in promoting the denim industry as it focuses on

for responsible practices worldwide. Its full impact is still unfolding.

On one hand, Kingpins is a place for learning, and, on the other, it is a venue for sharing various

sustainability, innovation and global networking.

innovations and collaborations I have worked

industry and the ways in which they work to improve

Rudolf HUB1922 was founded in 2018 as a newcomer

with my mentors who have given me invaluable

the category.

to the denim industry. Participation in Kingpins has

reflect on how the shows—in both NYC and Amsterdam—have shaped their businesses, the

greatly accelerated Rudolf HUB1922’s visibility in

on. Most importantly, it is where I reconnect advice whenever I am in doubt. It is also where I have formed some of my closest friendships and

the industry. Attending Kingpins opened up new

alliances. Every Kingpins event feels like a family

Kerry Bannigan

business opportunities. The show provided a

reunion, for which I am very grateful. It is a melting

Managing Director and

venue to effectively demonstrate our technological

pot of denim enthusiasts who are passionate about

President of the Board of

advancements and helped us position ourselves

evolving and revolutionizing the industry.

PVBLIC Foundation

as a leader in conscious chemical innovation in the

United Nations Fashion

denim industry.

Adriano Goldschmied

and Lifestyle Network Co-founder Kingpins Events: 8

Attending Kingpins is a sign of prestige and that a

Founder and Designer

My best experience with Kingpins was when the

company plays an important role in the industry. In

GENIOUS GROUP

show announced its commitment to the Sustainable

other words, you need to exhibit at Kingpins if you

Kingpins Events: Every New

Development Goals, which led to Kingpins being

want to be seen as an industry leader.

York and Amsterdam show

a member of our United Nations Fashion and

Our industry couldn’t be the same without Kingpins.

Lifestyle Network. Playing an active role in this was

Since the first event, it gave a new sense to fabric

inspiring, as it underscored Kingpins’ dedication

Adriana Galijasevic

shows and our industry by creating a denim

to promoting sustainability and transparency

Founder and CEO

community, bringing creativity and innovation,

in the denim industry globally. Discussions and

COCIRCULAR LAB

and putting the mills in competition to reach the

initiatives from sector leaders that emerged from

Kingpins Events: 22

goals from the show. The show set up a sense

this commitment highlighted collective action to

The first Kingpins Amsterdam

of responsibility for the community, starting from

drive positive change, making me proud to be part

was magical because, for one, it was

sustainability, circularity and transparency but also

of an industry aiming to prioritize environmental and

actually happening.

ethical matters, fair trade and respect and wellness of

social responsibility.

people. The show gave a soul to our industry.

We might not even be fully aware of Kingpins’

Since Kingpins started, it has given another life to

Kingpins significantly transformed the denim

magnitude. For two decades, Kingpins has brought

my design business! I find the cream of the cream

industry by fostering innovation and collaboration

the denim community together. Imagine all those

of our industry in one place such as the best and

among key stakeholders, with a strong emphasis

countless conversations leading to exciting

new fabrics, technical innovators, fibers and best

on sustainability. The trade show’s commitment to

collaborations, new business ventures and pushes

sustainable processes—but more important the best K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

17

CELEBRATING 20 YEARS

IT IS THE PLACE WHERE THE NEW TRENDS ARE BORN, WHERE THE NEW GOALS ARE ESTABLISHED AND WHERE PEOPLE GET TOGETHER TO DESIGN THE FUTURE. people together to share experiences and ideas.

This allows us to do a better job.

Kingpins is not a show; it is the show! You cannot miss it if you operate in the industry. It is the place where the new trends are born, where the new goals are established and where people get together to design the future.

Hasan Javed Executive Director AGI DENIM My first time attending Kingpins New York was way back in the

have also helped us refine our products and stay

It’s a unique, casual atmosphere that cannot be

ahead of industry trends.

recreated. Each show develops its own personality and it’s fun to experience it.

Besim Ozek

The contacts made through the Kingpins exhibitions

Director of Strategy and

have been invaluable. It amazes me most when we

Business Development

meet a brand or retailer that is unknown to us. Another

BOSSA

pivotal memory is when a large retailer actually

Having been in the textile

placed a 50,000-yard commitment—simply from

industry since 1996, my previous career involved

looking at our garment sample! I will never forget

working for formalwear textile companies and

that moment. You never know what can happen at a

attending formalwear events. Attending the first

Kingpins show!

Kingpins Amsterdam was transformative. It stood out with its high energy and unique atmosphere; completely different from the classical events

Jeffrey Silberman

I was used to. The vibrant and dynamic

Past Chairperson of Textile

environment of Kingpins inspired me immensely

Development and Marketing

and left a lasting impression.

at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). Board of

Its influence extends beyond being a trade show;

Directors Hudson Valley Textile Project

it has fostered a community where innovation,

I first met Andrew Olah around 2006. Over dinner,

collaboration and the latest trends in denim come

I asked him if he would help me put together a

together. This convergence of ideas and people

capstone course for my graduating seniors that

has significantly shaped and propelled the

would be unique in experiential teaching and

industry forward.

learning, and would mentor the students through industry advisors to create collections of jeans

Kingpins provides the perfect platform to showcase

from idea through commercially ready factory

new collections and share the latest sustainable stories.

prototypes. As busy as he was, he agreed. Together

It’s where we meet with our customers, discuss the

we built that course, and taught it together, along

future of the industry and learn about new innovations

with other guest advisors, for 15 years.

and developments through various panels and discussions. Kingpins has truly become a cornerstone

Kingpins became the unofficial meeting place for

event for our business strategy and growth.

the project.

summer of 2010. It was still the early days for me in the industry and I was intrigued by what seemed like a pretty unique trade show, held at an art gallery. It was

When Andrew launched his first Kingpins event in Kevin Reardon

Amsterdam 10 years ago, I was there, and for every

Senior Vice President of

intimate and one could see the organizers went the

year after that until I retired. Andrew facilitated a

Commercial Strategy

collaboration between FIT and The Jean School,

extra mile to add a personalized touch.

CONE DENIM

where Dutch students came to New York for a

Kingpins Events: 50+

week, and the FIT students returned with them to

Kingpins created a platform that promotes

With each edition, the denim community gets

innovation, collaboration and sustainability. Its

closer. The first Amsterdam exhibition after COVID

emphasis on transparency and eco-friendly

is a wonderful memory. The denim community

And so, my best memories of Kingpins? The people

practices has pushed companies to adopt more

was so distant for so long—it was a special time

I met who became friends and the good times.

responsible methods. Kingpins plays a key role in

for everyone to be together and reconnect after

The most gratifying memories? Seeing my former

bridging the gap between brands, manufacturers

a hard few years! I also very fondly remember

students helping out at the booths, beginning as

and consumers, fostering a sense of community.

Cone Denim’s sponsorship of the mechanical bull

interns or at entry level, then growing 10 ft. tall into

at Kingpins China—a once-in-a-lifetime fun day

denim decision-makers, where many are today.

Kingpins has allowed us to showcase our latest

surrounded by friends.

innovations and connect with key industry players.

The feedback and insights gained from the event

1 8 K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

Kingpins truly brings the denim community together.

Amsterdam for a second week.

Carmen Silla

Adam Taubenfligel

Menno van Meurs

Global Marketing Director

Co-founder, Creative Director

Founder of TENUE

JEANOLOGIA

and Responsibility Lead

CEO of TENUE DE NÎMES

There have been countless

TRIARCHY

Kingpins Events: 20

experiences with Kingpins

Kingpins Events: 8

My very best experience was

over these 20 years, but two significant moments

Kingpins has forged itself to be the destination

in New York City. We met the Cone Denim team for

brought something new, innovative and creative.

of gathering for our community of passionate

the first time and made one of our first batches for

bluebloods. There is no other event that unites

Tenue with the last yards of White Oak fabric. We

Firstly, the inspiring TRUTH & LIGHT exhibition in 2008

our industry in this way. Kingpins offers a platform

were so excited!

in New York showcased authentic vintage garments

for us to connect, make new—and rekindle old—

under the TRUTH garments and their replicas made

relationships, and continually learn from and motivate

The first edition of Kingpins Amsterdam was our

with LASER-LIGHT technology.

one another.

favorite. The idea that all these incredible mills found a home in Amsterdam was hard to believe. Kingpins

We demonstrated how laser technology allows

I have created so many incredible friendships

made Amsterdam the European capital of denim. It

the denim industry to produce ethically and

through shared values at Kingpins and I look forward

turned the city blue. It made us proud!

sustainably while maintaining an authentic look. It

to making many more in the years ahead.

was the beginning of laser adoption by brands and designers.

It taught us about quality fabrics. In the years that Thank you, Andrew and team!

followed, it took the stage in terms of defining the sustainable future of the denim. Andrew and his team

Secondly, in 2012, I made my debut with both

have been lightyears ahead of the industry. That’s

Kingpins and Jeanologia. For the first time in the

Alice Tonello

history of fabric fairs, a laser machine was brought in.

Marketing, Research

We united creatives, designers and weavers for a

and Development

Kingpins is also where we established our long-time

unique experience. The weavers could see how

TONELLO

partnership with our friends at Orta, for which I am

their fabrics reacted to the laser and prestigious

My best memory of Kingpins

genuinely grateful.

true entrepreneurship!

designers experimented with the technology,

Amsterdam was my first visit 10 years ago. I met

resulting in unique pieces.

Piero Turk, marking the start of a long and creative

Who would not want to play in the Champions

collaboration, filled with innovative, out-of-the-box

League of denim?

From the start, Jeanologia and Kingpins have been

projects. Andrew and Vivian, both visionary and

dedicated to bridging the gap between technocrats

forward-thinking individuals, warmly welcomed me.

and fashionistas. Today, Jeanologia celebrates the

The Denim Gallery was a beautiful project by Tonello

Viresh Verma

25th anniversary of laser technology. Kingpins is

that brought together the brilliant ideas of young

Senior Vice President of Sales

undoubtedly a part of our evolution and success.

designers with Tonello’s team and technologies.

and Marketing ARVIND DENIM LAB

Other significant experiences were workshops

FROM THE START, JEANOLOGIA AND KINGPINS HAVE BEEN DEDICATED TO BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN TECHNOCRATS AND FASHIONISTAS.

My best Kingpins

with Tonello machines, particularly experimenting

memories are the Kingpins shows at Amsterdam

with wake dyes made from raw organic materials

Westergasfabriek, and collaborations with the

and creative applications with the laser machine.

Denim School and Amsterdam government for

The astonished faces of the audience were

canal tours across Amsterdam.

always unforgettable.

Kingpins has really helped bring the denim industry Kingpins spotlights best practices, emphasizing

to a common platform for bringing up issues to be

resource optimization, recycling and low-impact

addressed and also getting everyone together

solutions. It pushes forward the conversation on

in a fun and wonderful way. Kingpins has helped

garment finishing and sustainable options but also

us reach a lot of new customers, bringing our

fosters a true denim community by empowering

innovation and sustainability impact stories to the

connections and collaborations.

forefront of the industry.

Kingpins has been a big part of helping us stay ahead and always brings new ideas and fresh perspectives to our company.

K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

19

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2 0 K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

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FE AT U RE

MORE IS MORE How the denim industry is learning to make the tradeoffs associated with diversifying apparel sourcing work in its favor.

BY CALETHA CRAWFORD

I

f it’s not one thing, it’s another.

In its 2024 benchmarking

From pirate attacks and deadly strikes to military

survey, the United

conflicts and modern-day slavery, supply chain

States Fashion Industry

operations are constantly at risk. Creating a

Association (USFIA) found

decentralized sourcing matrix was supposed to

that 70 percent of large

mitigate threats but with so many hotspots all over the

companies are sourcing from 10 or

globe, diversification has become its own challenge.

more countries, up from 45 to 50 percent in the past few years. Even small to mid-size

Prompted by the tariffs on goods made in China

firms are sourcing from six or more countries. If not

and accelerated by the need to avoid forced labor

done thoughtfully, more partner countries equal

concerns, fashion has been steadily adding to its

more problems.

price is only about 1 percent given that most retailers are deciding on the fabric vendors and designating

slate of production destinations. While this strategy

trim suppliers.

insulates operations from some types of disruption,

Eda Dikmen, senior marketing & communications

a broader supplier base brings its own set of

manager for Soorty, said diversification can be a

sourcing, production and logistics challenges. This

positive assuming the industry learned from the

“99 percent is out of the factory’s hands but the

new level of complexity calls for the denim industry

Covid pandemic and is prioritizing resilience above

sourcing people think [the 1 percent they control]

to find ways to ensure the benefits outweigh the

the cheapest needle.

is the most important thing in the world,” he said.

“Sourcing executives should go to the factories

drawbacks. It’s a tall order, one that means the “I believe that pursuing the cheapest option is a short-

that are the best factories, the factories that can

term strategy with long-term consequences,” she

produce the right style, that have the QA. They

“Being in the buyers’ market, we tend to import

said. “Stability, reliability, and the ability to innovate

should go to the ones that supply the services and

a lot of other countries’ problems,” said Bob

are equally crucial, particularly in an industry that is

the people who have speed to market.”

Antoshak, partner of Gherzi Textil Organisation.

becoming increasingly conscious of its impact.”

industry can no longer rely on business as usual.

But it’s not enough to have best in class factories

“The more you diversify, the more you’re increasing the possibility of disruptions—it could be

David Birnbaum, managing director of the Third

all over the globe. Maximizing the benefits of

economic things, it could be political things, it

Horizon Limited consultancy, agrees that cost should

diversification means having multiple partners

could be things that have nothing to do with the

not be the deciding factor when determining where

capable of creating the same garments, according

producing countries—and it affects all of us.”

to place production, particularly when he

to McKinsey & Company’s “Risk, resilience, and

estimates the factories’ contribution to the retail

rebalancing in global value chains” report. “One K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

21

MORE IS MORE of the most important steps is building more

The final piece of the puzzle is technology.

entire supply chain and make quick, optimum

redundancy into supplier networks. Relying on

“The ability to reroute components and flex

decisions,” Keh said. “You start there, and once

a single source for critical components or raw

production dynamically across sites can keep

you have that as your backbone, then let’s talk

materials can be a vulnerability,” the consulting

production going in the wake of a shock. This

about diversification. But if you’re diversifying

firm said.

requires robust digital systems as well as the

and you have very weak informational visibility, all

analytics muscle to run scenarios based on

you’re doing is muddying the water even more.”

Edward Hertzman, founder & managing partner

different responses,” McKinsey noted.

of Hertzman Global Ventures, agrees, adding in

He said the pandemic illustrated that point. With

addition to having contingencies, companies

most of fashion still working from spreadsheets,

must continuously play out these alternative

Improving diversification’s benefits

most companies didn’t know the status and

scenarios. “I do think people are running these

Part of why the industry is struggling is it has yet

location of their raw materials and work in

exercises,” he said, adding some more than

to digitize, and analog systems can’t handle the

progress, which meant they couldn’t respond

others. “I think this is why the bigger companies

complexity of today’s supply chain, according

in real time or maximize their opportunities. The

are getting bigger, and a lot of the smaller brands

to Edwin Keh, CEO of The Hong Kong Research

only options most had were to either cancel

are struggling because they don’t have the

Institute of Textiles and Apparel.

orders or fly goods in—both of which were

infrastructure and the ability to invest in sourcing, costing and sampling exercises. It’s a lot of work.”

expensive extremes.

“What we need to do in times of turbulence and change is to be able to manage and look at our

2 2 K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

Keh said the apparel industry has fallen way

MORE IS MORE

behind in digitization, and it’s particularly

In order to facilitate seamless operations in

detrimental to product like jeans that has an array

the future, Antoshak said brands and retailers

of waist sizes and inseam lengths.

have to put in the legwork today. “In the past, people flew to Hong Kong, people flew to

“The best thing to do is to not only digitize the

wherever and spent the time, and they built the

supply chain, but take the human decision maker

relationships, and that’s how you got to where

out of the formula,” Keh said. “There is limited

you got. But that was a process that took back

value in going through layers of approvals for

then 10 years or longer,” he said. “They’re going to

things to change. The faster you are, the more

have to make the investment. This is the business

nimble you are, the better you are at responding

model the industry adopted. You can’t phone

to market opportunities.”

it in. It isn’t something you can just do across the Internet and expect it to be successful. It’s going

That’s not to say people don’t matter. Keh

to require a human touch.”

advocates for meaningful partnerships as a way to execute on the data these systems provide.

I THINK A LOT OF COUNTRIES RIGHT NOW ARE COMING TO REALIZE THAT IT’S NOT THAT EASY TO SAY, ‘HEY, WE CAN MAKE YOUR PRODUCTS. HERE IT IS.’

Many plus China?

It’s a message that resonates with Dikmen as well.

Though USFIA found that 43 percent of

reason is clear. “They have the labor, they have

“The procurement strategies should be about

respondents sourced less than 10 percent of their

the skills, they have the raw materials and they

more than just spreading risk but also about

apparel products from China and 80 percent plan

have the capacity. They have the ability to do

forming close business partnerships that are

further reductions, the country remains a critical

a diversified product set,” he said, adding the

beyond a simple buyer-supplier relationship.

part of the global supply chain.

country’s stable economy and government are

When companies understand each other’s

additional benefits.

needs, goals, and capabilities, they can innovate

“One of the reasons that China is not going away

together,” she said.

is that China still, at the end of the day, is very

Canada and Mexico are also seeing renewed

reliable, very efficient, the needle is great, and

interest due to USMCA, USFIA said. The trade

Hertzman added that while fashion firms are

it takes a lot less work to get the goods out the

agreement pushed Mexico into the top 10

all jockeying for the same top tier production

door,” Hertzman said.

nations along with Guatemala and Egypt, the

facilities, they have to remember to also be

only two other non-Asian countries. Meanwhile,

good partners as well. “I think [brands and

This relative ease of working in China is one

the survey showed that CAFTA-DR countries

retailers] are trying to be more meaningful

reason why you can’t count the country out.

are stagnating due to the lack of access to

to particular partners in those countries. It’s

“Not everybody’s running for the hills because

raw materials.

having projections, keeping the lines busy

it’s hard and it’s slow,” said Antoshak. “I think a

and having open communication around

lot of countries right now are coming to realize

With risk at an all-time high, it’s clear the industry

payment,” Hertzman said, adding buyers need

that it’s not that easy to say, ‘Hey, we can make

needs to lean into diversification, while also

to understand what their suppliers are up against.

your products. Here it is.’ There has to be some

adopting new tools and practices to make the

For instance, expecting 120-day terms while

infrastructure around that.”

strategy effective. Hertzman said the ones that

interest rates are steadily increasing leaves facilities with no cashflow, he said.

do so will be the winners.

He also noted another big factor: costs. “Import prices have been kind of falling steadily out

“The ability to create and deliver the product is

Antoshak said everyone also has to be realistic

of China. It appears as though the supply chain

now becoming the competitive advantage,”

and recognize that the seamless operations

or government subsidies, or whatever it is, ate

he noted. “Inventory management, the ability to

Chinese factories were able to offer came from

the tariffs, and prices have continued to fall, and

replenish quickly, the ability to have less stock

decades of experience. The same can’t be

they’ve really fallen a lot this year. And I think that,

outs—all of these things are actually more of what

expected from production partners in new-

in part, is contributing to China maintaining its

differentiates a company than having the right

to-you countries. “In earnest, we’ve only been

market share,” Antoshak said.

blue jeans, because everyone has that.”

doing this for two years,” he said, referring to the post-pandemic diversification push. “Everybody

In the meantime, India is gaining steam, according

wants it to go like that. It doesn’t work that way. It

to USFIA. The survey found that nearly 60 percent

just takes time.”

of respondents plan to expand apparel sourcing there over the next two years. For Hertzman, the

24 K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

Now, EIM has become more controversial, as

FE AT U RE

GARBAGE IN, GARBAGE OUT? Jeanologia’s EIM system was once seen as a panacea for measuring a garment’s environmental impact but now new questions are arising about its effectiveness

concerns have emerged about how accurate it is, and whether it’s being used to reduce the denim industry’s impact or just as marketing for Jeanologia.

“I don’t think the industry would have changed without it,” said Neil Bell, a freelance apparel and textile advisor and former innovation lead at Levi’s.

“Whether, 12 years on, it’s delivered as expected, is a good question.”

How EIM Became Industry Standard Before Jeanologia introduced its laser finishing

BY ALDEN WICKER

machine, the industry standard to create wear and tear and fading on jeans was to use potassium permanganate, an extremely caustic and

E

hazardous chemical that was often used in sloppy, dangerous ways.

stablished in 1994 and headquartered

suppliers. It has since come to dominate the

in Valencia, Spain, Jeanologia is well

denim industry. Large brands that have requested

respected by the denim pros as a pioneer

or required that their suppliers use it include Levi

“I have got a lot of respect for Jeanologia,”

in reducing the environmental impact of denim

Strauss & Co., H&M, Tommy Hilfiger, The Gap,

said Bell. “In my time at Levi’s, we were very

manufacturing.

American Eagle and Calvin Klein.

much promoting the reduction of PP spray, and Jeanologia was a great partner to prove that

Its success speaks for itself — as of 2021, it was

It was a groundbreaking software tool, allowing

the use of high-energy lasers can create those

reported that over a third of the estimated 5 billion

a standard measurement of water, hazardous

white abrasion areas that were desired within a

jeans produced worldwide every year are

chemical, and energy usage across factories

denim jean.”

touched by its technologies. Today, Enrique Silla,

in a user-friendly format, and pushing brands

president of Jeanologia, said that number is now 3

and suppliers away from intensive processes

billion jeans.

and toward more efficient and environmentally friendly ones.

While it didn’t invent laser technology for denim, Jeanologia’s laser technology, plus ozone

“Before this tool existed, everybody could

technology and other sustainable dyeing and

say whatever they want,” said Wilson Avalos,

finishing innovations have led to safer and cleaner

vice president of the apparel division at

factories around the world.

Material Exchange.

Jeanologia has claimed that using its laser and

“There was a need, but there was nothing out

ozone machines can reduce the water needed

there to measure the environmental impact of

to produce a pair of jeans to only one glass worth,

garment finishing,” said a longtime European

as opposed to 70 liters. This impressive (and

denim dye and wash expert, who asked to

precise) claim stems from an internal software tool

remain anonymous. “And still, quite frankly,

that Jeanologia’s Begoña Garcia created in 2009

there are not many alternatives. It shouldn’t be

called EIM (Environmental Impact Measurement) to

surprising the brands like H&M, American Eagle

measure the environmental impact of producing a

all pushed it like crazy.

pair of jeans.

“But,” he continues, “nobody really considered Jeanologia presented EIM at Première Vision in Paris in 2010, making it available to brands and

2 6 K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

the limitations of the system.”

I THINK THERE ARE WAY TOO MANY WAYS TO GET TO THE GREEN FACE PLAYING WITH THE NUMBERS INSTEAD OF REALLY PLAYING WITH THE TECHNOLOGY, PLAYING WITH INNOVATION, PLAYING WITH THE RIGHT FABRIC

In 2011, Levi’s launched its Waterless denim,

group of large brands and suppliers, including

expert said. “As a matter of fact, that’s what happens.”

claiming—based on Jeanologia’s measurements—

American Eagle, Gap, H&M, Bestseller, PVH, Artistic

There’s no required third-party audit to verify that

that each pair of jeans only required one glass of

Milliners in Pakistan and Taypa in Turkey, to decide EIM’s

the numbers put into the system are accurate. “We

water in production. But Bell said that was more of a

standards. Then, three years ago, Silla said Jeanologia

are not controlling that you are telling the truth,” Silla

marketing slogan.

invited a “very strict” audit of its four standards before

affirmed. However, Silla said if Jeanologia discovers

launching EIM 2.0. And its restricted substance list

that a supplier is inputting inaccurate data, they will

aligns with ZDHC’s.

be booted off the platform indefinitely –– and

“If you’re any brand, you maybe have 300 finishes per season,” he said. “Let’s say two or three of those 300 finishes can use one glass of water, but not all of them.”

that several have. And because the software is While we can all agree that using less water, less

based on blockchain, after data is put in, it can’t be

hazardous chemistry, and less energy is a good thing,

manipulated. Still, several brands have started to

In 2012, Jeanologia launched a user-friendly platform.

Avalos has observed that Jeanologia penalizes a

require auditing of the data.

Someone at the supplier puts in the particular

denim style if it uses manual labor instead of a machine.

“recipe” for a style of denim garment, including

“I don’t think that there’s anything unethical in providing

Jeanologia’s competitor Tonello has a system called

time, chemicals used, temperature, and other

a worker with a way of earning their money,” he said.

Metro, which pulls data on electricity and water usage

parameters, and the software spits out a score and

directly from the machines. Unfortunately, it only works

either a red face, yellow face, or green face. That

But Silla says that the worker impact is not based on

then is shared with the brand. Large denim brands

manual labor, but processes that impact a worker’s

started requesting all their suppliers use it. In time, EIM

health. “If you are spraying a chemical of concern,

became the industry standard.

then immediately the impact of the worker is red,”

Measuring the Facility Instead of

he said. “It is not based on the level of automation. It

the Garment

“There are companies that enforce it and say every

is based on the level of chemistry and the repetitive

Recently, some brands such as Levi’s have moved

development that we make, you have to measure it,

movement. All this has been decided not by

away from measuring the impact of individual jeans

and you have to publish the results,” said Avalos. “They

Jeanologia but by the Valencia Polytechnic University.”

to measuring and reducing the water, chemical, and

might favor one design on top of the other if it has a better score.”

if you only have Tonello machines.

energy usage of entire facilities, especially since More worryingly, several experts told Kingpins

many facilities have installed water recycling systems,

Quarterly they have seen how the source data, which

rendering the amount of water used less relevant.

When asked why the big brands like it so much, the

is manually input by a supplier employee, can be

dye and wash expert posited two theories. “The first

manipulated to get that coveted green face.

one is noble, which is because, still, it is the only quick

“It’s really difficult and takes a whole team of people, an army, to check all the facts and figures per SKU,”

and dirty way to assess environmental impact. The

“I think there are way too many ways to get to the

Bell said. “If you look at Gap Inc. and Levi Strauss & Co.

other answer that I can give you, which is probably

green face playing with the numbers instead of really

today in their sustainability reports, you will see that

less fair… is that you can manipulate it a little bit better.”

playing with the technology, playing with innovation,

they are measuring water much more at the facility

playing with the right fabric,” Alberto Candiani, owner

level than the actual SKU level.”

and president of Candiani denim, said. “I think it’s way Can We Trust the Data?

too cheatable and superficial.”

Two questions loom over the quality of EIM ratings.

That approach is not without its drawbacks, Bell said.

“Are these laundries actually saving as much water as

One is whether the standards by which Jeanologia

Candiani still has a good relationship with

they say they’re saving? Is a consumer more interested

is measuring denim production are fair. The other is

Jeanologia and has one of its laser machines. But

in water saving per garment than water saving per

whether the data being put in is accurate.

the premium brands he works with, which have a

facility? That’s also a very big discussion that goes on.”

more hands-on design process, don’t request EIM, “The effectiveness of the EIM system relies on

especially since Candiani has a strong reputation for

In the end, the questions surrounding EIM are ones

the benchmarks and on the standards that are

being environmentally friendly. He says it’s better

that bedevil the whole fashion industry: How do

set by Jeanologia. It’s something that a machine

for mass market brands focused on the efficiencies

we accurately measure the environmental impact of

manufacturer came up with, and they were never

that add up when you’re manufacturing hundreds of

fashion and incentivize good behavior? As much as

really validated by anybody,” the denim dye and

millions of jeans.

brands try, these are billion-dollar questions that can’t

wash expert said. “ It cannot be a coincidence that as

be answered with a marketing slogan.

soon as you use Jeanologia equipment, results are all

“There is always a risk that companies might use the EIM

of a sudden much better.”

system for greenwashing purposes and presenting an environmentally friendly image without making

In 2015, Silla said, Jeanologia convened a working

substantial improvement,” the denim dye and wash

K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

27

Egypt's Denim Prospects

taxation and exemptions to promote economic

MIC Group [Manifattura Italiana Cucirini], the Verona,

growth. Additionally, under the country’s Qualifying

Italy-headquartered yarn maker, opened Cometex

Industrial Zones (QIZ), products exported to the U.S.

Threads in Alexandria, Egypt, in 2011. Cometex’s

from Egypt remain duty free if the goods contain

aptitude in creating premium yarns combined with

components from Israel.

the capabilities of other apparel suppliers supports

Investments—both foreign and domestic—are laying the groundwork for continued growth in the region

Zone in August after signing a contract with the Suez

“The real innovation in Egypt’s denim sector is not just

Canal Economic Zone (SCZONE) in April. Phase 1 of the

in the final stages of the supply chain but in creating a

factory is anticipated to open in January 2025; it will

comprehensive sourcing cluster for denim fabric,” said

boast 62,000 square meters and add approximately

Tommaso Cumerlato, chief sales officer at MIC. “The

2,750 jobs to support the production of 7.2 million

Egyptian denim sector needs to broaden its focus

pairs of jeans annually.

toward Europe, which is currently underexploited in

BY DOROTHY CROUCH

A

n important, underrated textile resource has been expanding within the apparel industry—particularly the denim segment—

and that secret is Egypt. This country is no stranger to the

the type of growth necessary to cultivate Eroğlu Global Holding Group broke ground on its

a potentially booming denim industry.

$40 million project in Egypt’s Qantara West Industrial

terms of exports compared to its potential.”

“Transit times to the U.S. and the EU are comparable to those of other Mediterranean countries and

Parties that venture into the garment-making sector of

significantly shorter for EU customers than for suppliers

Egypt’s apparel and denim segments must also be

in the Far East, further reinforcing Egypt’s strategic

prepared to share their best practices and skills.

advantages,” explained Sedat Sualp, sales and marketing director at DNM, the independent fabric-

“What is needed is garmenting, but what we need

production Eroğlu Global Holding subsidiary that

here is somebody who comes and has the idea to

many players in this region are ready for more.

was founded in 2011 in Damietta, Egypt.

bring know-how,” Moretti Ciacci said. “In some cases,

“Denim is going up, especially if we talk about

According to Alessandro Moretti Ciacci, sales

labor force because of the cost. The best companies

and marketing director at Sharabati Denim, the

are those who are coming to invest and bring know-

46-year-old company whose factory is located

how so the entire country grows.”

textile industry, as its long staple Egyptian cotton has historically been valued as an important commodity but

sophisticated denim, with new machinery and technology,” said Magdi Tolba, chairman of El Obour City, Egypt-based T&C Garments, the collaborative offering founded in 2010 by Egypt’s Tolba Group and Turkey’s Tay Group. “We have our diamond, which is the long staple cotton. We need to have a finished product by getting the exclusive, expensive brands

you have people coming here simply to use the

in Sadat City, Egypt, Egypt’s government also supports apparel and denim expansion through

The focus for many companies in Egypt is currently

infrastructure development.

on producing basic styles with large quantities, as workers hone their craft.

“In four years, it’s incredible. In terms of roads, there is

to produce and consume from Egypt.”

a difference you can see daily. Roads that were non-

“Egypt suppliers are mostly focused on brands like

asphalt are now five lanes. The highway going from

Levi’s, Wrangler, Gap and Old Navy from the U.S.

Egyptian apparel exports reached $1.55 billion

Cairo to Alexandria is now six lanes per direction for

These brands are placing huge orders of 200,000

from January to July 2024, a 20 percent YOY increase,

cars, plus three lanes per direction for trucks, so nine

pieces a month with a program for a year or six

according to Marie Louis Bishara, Apparel Export

lanes altogether. In Cairo they are doing more public

months,” according to Berat Sucu, key account

Council of Egypt chairwoman and president of the

transport,” said Moretti Ciacci. “They are building a

manager with Lotus Garments Group, which was

Readymade Garment Export Council.

new train—freight and passenger.”

founded in 1994 and is based in Port Said, Egypt.

Although many members of the denim-industry labor

“The future of Egypt is having long staple cotton,

force in Egypt are not as seasoned as others, this will

noted Tolba. “If we can make a strategic plan to make

Overcoming Egypt’s Remaining Hurdles

use of such items, Egypt can easily reach $30 billion in

A big push from investments is coming from firms

the coming five years.”

based in Turkey but Egypt is also seeing investment

“As Turkish suppliers move to Egypt, the competition

from major players based in India and China.

will be a wakeup moment for the Egyptian suppliers.

SCZONE has signed agreements worth more than

The government in Egypt is lowering the value of the

Incentives to Build Egypt’s Apparel Industry

$100 million with firms from China in 2024. Although

Egyptian pound, which will encourage more exports

European suppliers are also exploring options in

so costs are going down,” said Sucu. “My message

Companies located in Egypt’s designated free zones

Egypt, they have been slower to expand there.

to European brands regarding moving to Egypt is—

finished products and recycled material products,”

are afforded special considerations such as special

2 8 K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY

change in time.

don’t be late!”

ADVERTISEMENT

SPOTLIGHT: EGYPT

credit: Team Peter Stigter

DNM DENIM: GROWING TO MEET YOUR NEEDS The Egypt-based denim mill is expanding, while embracing responsible systems to produce a clean, green product.

Since DNM Denim began its journey in 2011 in Damietta,

offers lower labor and operating costs compared

dependence on external energy sources and

Egypt as an investment venture of Turkish firm Eroğlu

to other Mediterranean countries and transit times

results in lower energy costs over time—plus

Global Holding, the firm has experienced “increased

are significantly shorter than suppliers from Asia.

contributing to a cleaner, greener environment

demand thanks to unique product variety, and the

“These advantages have encouraged increased

by reducing carbon emissions. Further, facilities

quality and service it provides,” according to Sedat

investment in the country’s garment sector, along

use a ZLD (Zero Liquid Discharge) System to

Sualp, sales and marketing director for DNM Denim.

with the close integration of fabric and garment

prevent the discharge of industrial wastewater

To further meet the needs of new and existing

manufacturers in the same region to further

into the environment. “All water used in production

clients, DNM is currently increasing capacity up

increase efficiency and offer faster turnaround

undergoes treatment at our plant, achieving a

to a total of 3.5 million meters/month (up from 2.6

times to customers,” said the exec.

100% treatment rate,” he concluded.

million meters/month), with full operational capacity planned for the end of 2025.

Sualp explained that “since its inception, DNM Denim has been characterized by the principle

Egypt is becoming an increasingly attractive hub

of respecting nature with an environmental

for textile manufacturers thanks to the Qualifying

production approach.” Taking advantage of

Industrial Zone (QIZ) initiative with the U.S., which

Egypt’s sunny climate, DNM has embraced

exempts garments exported from zones in Egypt

solar and thermal energy usage. This provides

to the U.S. from customs duties. The country also

greater control over energy supply by reducing

K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY 29

ADVERTISEMENT

SPOTLIGHT: EGYPT

SUSTAINABLE DENIM, CRAFTED FOR A BETTER WORLD Vertically-integrated Lotus Denim Group offers environmentally friendly practices from fabric to finished goods When it comes to denim, experience matters.

Our strategic location also means quicker lead

Our dedication to innovation is evident in our

At Lotus Denim Group, we bring over 30

times and easier access to key markets in Europe

pioneering efforts, such as being the first denim

years of expertise to every piece we create,

and beyond, making us the ideal partner for

mill to implement the Link-Matic system. This

ensuring that your designs not only meet your

denim buyers and designers who demand both

cutting-edge technology decreases yarn waste

highest standards but also tell a story of quality,

quality and efficiency.

by more than 85%, setting new standards in

sustainability and innovation.

sustainable production.

At Lotus Denim Group, sustainability is woven into

As one of Egypt’s leading denim manufacturers,

everything we do. We power our operations

Let’s create something extraordinary together.

Lotus Denim Group produces an impressive 1.5

using solar energy and employ the latest

Visit our booth at Kingpins Amsterdam.

million garments each month. But we don’t stop

technology to save and recycle water throughout

there. In 2018, we launched of our own denim mill,

our production process. Our commitment to eco-

Lotustex Textile Co., which boasts a capacity of 1.5

friendly practices—from using sustainable dyes to

million meters of fabric per month. This step toward

minimizing waste—ensures that our denim feels as

vertical integration has enabled us to oversee

good to make as it does to wear. Our ultimate aim

every aspect of production, from the initial fabric

is to achieve a closed water cycle, where every

creation to the final stitch, ensuring unmatched

drop is purified and reused, further reducing our

consistency and quality in our products.

environmental footprint.

LOTUSDENIM

GROWTH MODE Ongoing investment at T&C Garments means expansion in infrastructure, product line and sustainable initiatives From the first day of business in 2010 as a joint

Adding new U.S. and European brands to the

A new solar energy project will allow the firm

venture between the Egyptian Tolba Group and

portfolio is not only about the production

to produce 50 percent of its electricity locally.

Turkish Tay Group, growth for Egypt-based T&C

of goods, but it proves valuable for sharing

A fabric waste recycling initiative is also being

Garments has been paramount. The firm is currently

knowledge and market experience, with an eye

implemented. Ninety percent of chemicals used

in an expansion phase to increase warehouse and

on future plans. The firm produces garments for

in the facility are environmentally friendly. T&C is

laundry space. The effort is to better serve current

men, women and children including skirts, shorts,

also an active participant in Roadmap to Zero and

and future customers.

truckers, jackets, shackets, cargos and chinos.

CleanChain, which aim to monitor and control the

Lightweight denim shirts and dresses are currently

use of chemicals across the value chain, reducing

in the works.

the industry’s chemical footprint.

“Our aim is to make our customers’ jobs and lives easier by becoming a one stop vendor for all needs,” said Erdem Korkut, sales and marketing

From a sustainability perspective, T&C’s high-

director for T&C Garments. With a young

tech laundry machines work with less water and

management team who has a passion for the denim

chemicals, as well as lasers and e-flow (where

industry, “we make decisions quicker and apply

nanobubbles act as a carrier to transmit chemicals

them faster, which we think is valuable in today’s

into a garment with minimal water and zero

dynamic world,” commented the exec.

discharge). A recent project recycles 80 percent of water used each day.

3 0 K I N G P I N S Q U A R T E R LY