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TRIP PLANNER: COEUR D’ALENE PG. 78

Save-the-Planet Startup

American Butterflying Badass

Berry Picking + Backyard Glamping

STUNNINGLY SCENIC

HIKES FROM EASY TO EPIC

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WASHINGTON June | July

volume 25


ALCOHOL BEVERAGE LAWS VARY BY STATE. PLEASE BE GUIDED ACCORDINGLY. © 2020 ELYSIAN BREWING COMPANY, SEATTLE, WA


You don’t have to go to the depths of the ocean to be a discoverer. Or produce one of the world’s first maps of the ocean floor, like Marie Tharp, a pioneering geologist and cartographer whose important work helped bring to life the unknown ocean world. You just have to chart your course to Discovery West. Nestled in Bend’s Westside, this community is alive with the spirit of discovery. Not to mention proximity to schools, parks, close-by trails and more. Visit discoverywestbend.com to learn about the neighborhood, Marie herself – and how you could even find your new home on Tharp Avenue. Or head on over to our Discovery Pod at the corner of Skyline Ranch Road and Celilo Lane and map out your future.


Super Fly photography by Cam Östman The esteemed natural history writer, novelist, poet and butterfly expert Robert Michael Pyle is having a moment. Comedic actor David Cross (Arrested Development, Mr. Show) portrays him in the film The Dark Divide, Pyle’s three new books are gathering accolades, and he just released an album with fellow Willapa Hills resident and Nirvana bassist Krist Novoselic. (pg. 58)

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Robert Michael Pyle, with his long-trusted butterfly net, “Marsha,” observes the forest surrounding his home in Grays River.

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50 The State’s Seven Most Scenic Hikes With its rugged coastline, alpine meadows, primordial temperate rainforests and three national parks, choosing your next world-class hike in Washington can stymie the best of us. These seven spectacular jewels, from easy to difficult, should not be missed. written by Amy Bowden

58 A Rare Species After five decades shaping environmental thought, a renowned butterfly expert, natural history writer, novelist and poet is portrayed by comic actor David Cross in The Dark Divide, and he has three new books and an album with fellow Willapa Hills resident and Nirvana bassist Krist Novoselic. written by Cathy Carroll

64 Slices of Stardom

JUNE | JULY 2021 • volume 25

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photography by Neil H. Buckland Neil H. Buckland

FEATURES

Moon, Mars and asteroids, sliced paper-thin and photographed at staggeringly high resolution reveal their striking beauty. “Cosmic Microscapes” is a marriage between art and science— a Seattle photographer and a University of Washington professor and meteorite expert.


One first has the power to lead to thousands of other firsts. The first time to save a life, to welcome new life, and to provide care where care is hard to access. Thank you, Washington, for helping make ever y experience possible for our first graduating class of WSU doctors.

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DEPARTMENTS

LIVE 14 SAY WA?

JUNE | JULY 2021 • volume 25

Our picks for a cool summer include sonic oddities from a Bellingham-based art-pop band and a Spokane author building relationships through fruit.

20 FOOD + DRINK

84

It wasn’t truly Beervana until the arrival of the dog-park-brewery. Dive into a delicious summer, from fresh pasta and local seafood to oysters and artisan spirits.

24 FARM TO TABLE

Steve Heinrichs/Visit Central Oregon

One couple joins the agrarian movement and fennel is a focus of their Arlington farm. Discover why fennel is great for a home garden, too. Savor three chefs’ fennel-forward recipes for a floral cocktail, a fennel sausage pizza and basil-crusted salmon sandwich with fennel salad.

28 HOME + DESIGN

A Whidbey Island home’s solution for more guest space? Glamping tents. With wood floors and space heaters, they get used most of the year. An old garage on Vashon Island becomes a sleek, glass-walled guest/living/party space. DIY: Backyard A-frames and stylish lounge areas.

36 MIND + BODY

Hiking is a health tonic. A sports medicine doctor from Spokane shares his tips for hitting the trails with the family, injury prevention strategies and feeling great, step after step.

38 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

This Seattle aerialist has swung from circus trapeze to acrobatics done with silks, rope, cords and straps and shows incorporating technology and live music. Her next leap? Performance art.

THINK 42 STARTUP Jackie Dodd

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This company’s idea for carbon removal could help save the planet. Working with farmers is the way. But there’s a problem the startup is solving—the incentive.

44 WHAT’S GOING UP

Women and tribal distillers are breaking new ground.

45 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

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Rylea Foehl Photography

Want to hear something disgusting? Check out the psychology study “Forever Yuck” from Whitman College in Walla Walla.

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Editor’s Letter 1889 Online Map of Washington Until Next Time

46 MY WORKSPACE

What do you get when you blend Andy Warhol, Pee-wee’s Playhouse and stilettos? Take a peek at this Pop Art experience in Seattle and the woman behind it.

48 GAME CHANGER

Technology helps lies fly. Enter the University of Washington’s Center for an Informed Public led by the author of Calling Bullshit, Data Reasoning in a Digital World.

EXPLORE 72 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Put the wind back in your sails at this seafaring spot on the Kitsap Peninsula.

74 ADVENTURE

Add wild huckleberry and blackberry picking to your next hike or camping trip using these tips.

76 LODGING

Lotte Hotel’s glass facade reflects the Seattle skyline, and its spa and sixteenth-floor restaurant with views of the Olympic Range is a retreat for body and mind.

78 TRIP PLANNER

Satisfy a yearning to return to the past in Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, through harbors, hairdos, golf courses and the rim of every frothed cocktail.

COVER

photo by Austin Trigg/TandemStock.com Mount Fremont Lookout Trail (see “The State’s Seven Most Scenic Hikes,” pg. 50)

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84 NORTHWEST DESTINATION

Our insider’s guide to Central Oregon this summer will get you away from full parking lots, overly trafficked trails and miles-long columns of vehicles with kayaks, standup paddleboards, bikes and high expectations strapped to them.


Going all in is a given in Central Oregon, a Pacific Northwest destination where outdoor escapades, craft cuisine, and an art-loving spirit will feed your sun-seeking soul. Paddle a restful river or a glassy Cascade mountain lake, stroll to plunging waterfalls or cavernous underground lava tubes. Then pause for a magic sunset moment on a patio to celebrate the here and now with those you love. Make a plan to go all in at VisitCentralOregon.com.


CONTRIBUTORS

AMY BOWDEN Writer The State’s Seven Most Scenic Hikes

JEN SOTOLONGO Writer Adventure

CAM ÖSTMAN Photographer A Rare Species

As the daughter of a National Park Service employee, I practically grew up on the hiking trails crisscrossing Mount Rainier National Park. The adventure bug bit early and never let go. I’ve spent more than two decades exploring the awe-inspiring Pacific Northwest. Deciding on the seven most scenic hikes was a difficult task—luckily, that meant I got to spend even more hours in alpine meadows, contemplative rainforests and rocky coastlines. (pg. 50)

Born and raised in the Seattlearea, I’ve lived all around the world, but always return home to the Pacific Northwest. I have fond memories of pausing to pick blackberries on Whidbey Island during punishing hill repeats on a high school cross country retreat. Writing about berry picking across the state brought me back to that hot summer day. Now I adventure with my rescued cattle dog, Sitka. I’m the author of The Essential Guide to Hiking with Dogs and have the blog Long Haul Trekkers. (pg. 74)

I spent an afternoon with Robert Michael Pyle at his home in Grays River surrounded by a dense collection of trees, native plants and a few bee hives, listening to the stories of his decorated career as a lepidopterist, author and poet. Robert’s curiosity and sense of wonder is infectious, and his inquisitive nature had me feeling that we had been friends for years. (pg. 58)

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GEMINA GARLAND-LEWIS Photographer The State’s Seven Most Scenic Hikes I was lucky enough to be raised on outdoor adventure, and the wilderness has always been a kind of home for me. Ever since the age of 12, a camera slung around my body has been a constant companion on these adventures as a way to share my experience and love of the outdoors with others, and to advocate for the protection and stewardship of our public lands. (pg. 50)


EDITOR-AT-LARGE Kevin Max

MANAGING EDITOR Cathy Carroll CREATIVE DIRECTOR Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER

AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

OFFICE MANAGER

DIRECTOR OF SALES

BEERVANA COLUMNIST

Aaron Opsahl Elijah Aikens Cindy Miskowiec Jenny Kamprath Jackie Dodd

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Sharla Benito, Amy Bowden, Connor Brook, Melissa Dalton, Jackie Dodd, Ben Salmon, Vanessa Salvia, Mike Score, Jen Sotolongo, Cara Strickland, Mary Grace Ward, Corinne Whiting

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Neil H. Buckland, Jackie Dodd, Gemina Garland-Lewis, Andrew Giammarco, Jim Meyers, Katheryn Moran, Cam Östman, Alla Ponomareva

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1889 Washington’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1889 Washington’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1889 Washington’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

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1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE      9


FROM THE

EDITOR-AT-LARGE THIS ISSUE is a little volume of rebellion and liberation. Take the unusual story of Robert Pyle, a Willapa Hills-based lepidopterist, who is the Jacques Cousteau of butterflies. The poet, writer and adventurer became the unlikely subject of a feature-length film from Los Angelesbased director Tom Putnam. We bring you into his fascinating life in “A Rare Species” on pg. 58. Though not as romantic as a wandering lepidopterist or an aerial trapeze artist (Artist in Residence, pg. 38) soaring in pendulum arcs through the imaginations of all those beneath her, carbon removal (not more carbon sequestration) is the unexpected hero of modern life’s tale, increasingly verging on nothing. Nori, a Seattle startup, is going straight at the greenhouse gas problem with a transparent market for carbon removal. Find out how on pg. 42. Another act of rebellion comes from professor Jevin West’s Calling Bullshit, his co-written book and subsequent course at the University of Washington’s Center for an Informed Public, a new cross-disciplinary institution aimed at identifying and countering the rising tide of disinformation. West’s mission, and indeed

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that of the Center’s, is to create smarter consumers of information. See Game Changer on pg. 48. When all about you are losing their heads, liberate yours in one of Washington’s most scenic hikes—from the Olympic National Forest, to Mount Rainier, the North Cascades, the Palouse and more. The one common trait among these trails is beauty. Turn to “The State’s Seven Most Scenic Hikes” on pg. 50 to get stoked. Tariqa Waters, artist, owner and curator of Martyr Sauce in Pioneer Square, brings back performance art, visual satire and the ’90s with a dose of grandeur. This retro combination feels all brand new. The conversation Martyr Sauce starts with its visitors about the boundaries of art is open, intelligent and sensual at once. The final act of liberation in this issue comes at us in the form of a Black Manhattan (Cocktail Card, pg. 23) from Fast Penny Spirits and made better with its craft label, Amaricano, an Italian liqueur composed of mixed herbs that has landed on our shores. It feels like the start of something hopeful, something new as, in each sip, we all come to look for America.


1889 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Washington content www.1889mag.com | #1889washington | @1889washington

A NEW WAY TO SHOP Stop by Local, our new curated online shop of cool goods made by businesses in the Pacific Northwest. Find home décor, jewelry, specialty foods and more. Buy local. Feel good. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop

washington: in focus Have a photo that captures your Washington experience? Share it with us by filling out the Washington: In Focus form on our website. If chosen, you’ll be published here. www.1889mag.com/in-focus photo by Nick Joyce In late August, a small group of trail-lovers and I made our way to the Snoqualmie region. Our goal was to hike 26 miles to one of the more remote parts of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness: Spade Lake. After a long first day, we made camp at Waptus Lake and enjoyed a beautiful summer sunset over the lake. On day two, we headed up the trail toward Spade Lake. The climb to Spade was grueling, and the late August sun kept us sucking on our CamelBaks the whole way up. After a few tough hours, we made it to Spade Lake. Following a quick lunch break, we realized we still had some gas in our tanks and decided to go a little farther to another alpine lake known as Venus Lake. Venus lake sits 2 miles above Spade, and the only way up is hiking up a large granite hillside. It was a challenging day of hiking, but the view from this hillside near the top entrance of Venus Lake was spectacular. As I stood looking out at Spade Lake below, I couldn’t help but smile at this amazing view.

1889 ADVENTURE MAIL More Washington, delivered to your inbox! Sign up for 1889’s Adventure Mail newsletter and get access to the latest trip ideas, giveaways, recipes and more. www.1889mag.com/1889-newsletter

JUNE | JULY 2021

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SAY WA? 14 FOOD + DRINK 20 FARM TO TABLE 24 HOME + DESIGN 28 MIND + BODY 36

pg. 32 DIY: Build a pint-sized A-frame for an office, guest bedroom or just more room to hang.

Alla Ponomareva

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 38


Stay Like We Do. Outdoors.

Surrounded By Beauty.

Ready?

Inspired.

bellingham.org/adventure @BellinghamExperience


say wa?

Tidbits + To-dos

Jueqian Fang

Light Up a Room or Garden

Asian Art Reimagined The newly renovated Seattle Asian Art Museum has reopened. The historic Art Deco building has an expanded gallery, education spaces and a new lobby connecting to Volunteer Park. Galleries are not labeled China, Japan or India. Instead, art from Vietnam to Iran come together to tell stories of human experiences, with themes from worship and celebration to clothing and identity, nature and power to birth and death, revealing the complexity and diversity of Asia. www.seattleartmuseum.org/visit/asian-art-museum

CAmark y LEN our DA R Puget Sound’s Past and Future In the new book Homewaters: A Human and Natural History of Puget Sound, author David B. Williams traces generations’ ties to the water’s bounty, from salmon and orcas to rockfish and herring. He looks at this maritime highway’s traffic, from canoes and the mosquito fleet to ferries and takes an unflinching look at how the sound’s ecosystems have suffered from pollution, habitat destruction and climate change. His virtual book tour includes appearances set for June 14 at 7 p.m. and July 14 at 6 p.m. www.uwapress.uw.edu/events

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New lines of lighting from Allsop Home & Garden of Bellingham bring a warm and vintage ambiance to indoor and outdoor spaces. Punched with geometric patterns and crafted from weather-resistant Tyvek fabric, the patterns have fun, colorful printed designs and capture the impression of light filtering through leaves on a moonlit evening. Jim and Jamey Allsop, founder and president respectively, have patented many solar products including their solar-powered lantern. www.allsopgarden.com


say wa?

Sea Worthy Self-care Sea Witch Botanicals of Seattle is offering ways to love the planet while responsibly caring for yourself and your home. The womenowned business is a certified Towards Zero Waste maker of soaps, shampoos, body oil, natural perfumes, candles, incense and home cleaning products. The name Sea Witch reflects a commitment to keeping the waterways clean of toxins by replacing synthetic fragrances, preservatives, irritants and carcinogens with natural alternatives. www.seawitchbotanicals.com

Hoop Dreams

Asha Blooms pairs meaning with its jewelry so you can feel encouraged and restored by wearing it. Necklaces, earrings and bracelets reflect gratitude, growth, love, peace, strength and happiness. This can be a mantra to stay grounded, hopeful and positive or guide you to pause, reflect and re-frame while moving forward. Carol and Amar Gavhane launched the Redmond company using the word asha because it means “hope” in Hindi and “life” in Swahili.

A five-hoop court complex in the new North Bank of Riverfront Park in Spokane includes a mural by local artist Joshua Martel. Martel worked with two other artists, matched with him as part of a new program to help artists gain experience through paid apprenticeships. Spokane Arts, partnering with Hooptown USA and local groups, hosted an open call for apprentice applicants and is accepting more applications for other opportunities this year.

www.ashablooms.com

www.spokanearts.org/opportunities

Intentional Jewelry

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say wa?

Musician

The Grass is Always Greener

Bruce Hamilton is the creative force behind Jostaberry’s soaring melodies and sonic oddities.

Bellingham art-pop project Jostaberry blurs the traditional boundaries among genres written by Ben Salmon TAKING A SPIN through Greener Grass, the debut album from Bellingham-based art-pop band Jostaberry, is a bit like an audio roadmap of the musical journey of Bruce Hamilton, the project’s core creative force. There are unexpected sounds and unconventional stylistic pairings. Soaring melodies and sonic oddities. Head-scratching twists and hairpin turns. Dissonance and harmony and all points in between. “A lot of my ideas and musical phrases are naturally a bit strange,” Hamilton said. “But part of the composing process is reworking ideas, finding new avenues and discovering things.” Hamilton has spent his whole creative life doing exactly that. Like many, he was first drawn to music by The Beatles and started playing drums as a kid, often alongside his older brother on guitar. Together, they played in bands around central New Jersey: classic rock, prog, fusion, funk, jazz. For college, Hamilton went to Indiana, where he studied percussion and then pivoted to composition. “By the time I finished school, I’d been engrossed in many kinds of music,” he said, “and was finding my voice as a composer of electroacoustic and concert music.” When he moved to Bellingham to teach composition, theory and electronic music at Western Washington University, Hamilton followed an urge to get back to one of his earliest loves: songwriting. Quickly, he found his tunes bending and stretching into shapes that reflected his eclectic background. “I found my work embracing multiple genres, and have tried to balance concert music, electroacoustic, ambient, electronica, noise and free improvisation,” he said. “But there’s rarely a distinct line between these in practice, and I often am doing a kind of hybrid music.” For example, Greener Grass hops eagerly from quiet piano chords to jagged punk and from sunny Beach Boys-style pop to off-kilter jazz that recalls the adventurous spirit of Miles Davis. “Someone Else” blips and burbles like organic electronic music, while the album’s title track features a killer guitar riff dipped in heavy fuzz. Sometimes, all of Hamilton’s ideas come in a way 16

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Listen on Spotify

that makes perfect sense, and other times it sounds like he’s playing and singing different songs at the same time. (In a good way.) What matters here is that it all works in Hamilton’s head—and that he has found a way to get it out of there. “You could call it a midlife crisis, but it’s more like something that was bottled up for too long,” he said. “The goal all along has been to make compelling art music, though I hate how pretentious that sounds.” Ever restless, Hamilton has already moved on from Greener Grass. He’s recording new music (which can be heard at jostaberrymusic.com) and making DIY videos, with an eye toward more collaboration and maybe, eventually, an actual band. (He played everything on Greener Grass except for a couple of guitar solos.) “As I’m getting older, I think there’s a bit more urgency to get stuff done,” he said. “Music is really the main thing for me. I’m always thinking about it, I’m compelled to make it, and this year, I’m having more fun with it.”


The Stars Shine Brighter at

Mount Rainier National Park Whether searching for that magical night sky experience or soaking up the rainbow of color and beauty of Mount Rainier National Park’s legendary wildflowers, there’s something for everybody. While summer is still here, don’t miss your chance to get outdoors for exercise and relaxation. Special fall rates and packages are available now.

NATIONAL PARK INN 47009 Paradise Road E, Ashford, WA 98304

PARADISE INN 52807 Paradise Road E, Ashford, WA 98304

MtRainierGuestServices.com Reservations: (855) 755-2275 Blackout dates may apply. Visit website for availability. Dates and times for our holiday specials available online.

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5/17/2021 11:06:03 AM


Melissa Heale

say wa?

Bibliophile

Fruit for Thought A Spokane author explores how sweetness can prompt us to pursue the strange interview by Cara Strickland

SPOKANE-BASED AUTHOR Kate Lebo is known for her previous books about pie, but her new release, The Book of Difficult Fruit, offers something different: an exploration of fruits with issues, from aronia to zucchini, with personal stories and recipes to go with each. Lebo invites the reader to examine their own relationships with the foods they eat and the natural world around them—and see what they discover. What makes a fruit difficult? I guess it depends on the fruit and why I’m interested in it. Some fruits have obvious elements of difficulty to them. For example, if you’re not used to eating durian, first you’ll need to figure out how to get through its spiky rind and then master your own uninitiated palette as you encounter this very odiferous fruit. A way that a cherry is difficult is that it holds in its pit a chemical that tastes like almond flavoring but also splits off and becomes cyanide—poison. If you eat too many of those kernels, you can get yourself into trouble. Difficulty in fruit I think is often balanced with its sweetness, its ease, the reason that we love it in the first place—that’s what made it a really fun and rich subject for me to pursue. How did being based in Spokane shape your writing? It was important to me when I was sourcing all of my fruits that I tried to get them through my personal networks, coincidence, or through the way that an average person would try to get ahold of them. We live in a time when you can ship anything anywhere, but that was less interesting 18

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Author Kate Lebo’s new book reveals how obscure and hard-to-cut fruit can be delicious and build community, too.

to me than what I would find out if I tried to find a person who could connect me to this fruit, or I tried to find the fruit itself in its particular environment or particular market. Being in Spokane meant it was easy to find huckleberries. It meant that it was very hard to find durian and ume. What do you find bountiful about the food culture of our region? In the inland Northwest, something that has been a delight is the way that I can live in a city and the farm that I get my vegetables from is just over the train tracks, less than a mile away. I have immediate access to fresh food, my friends grow it, it’s not something precious, it’s not something I have to fight through a snarl of traffic to get to. I have direct relationships with where my food is coming from in a way that I’ve never had before. Do you have a favorite of the fruits you include in your book? Quince is one of the fruits that inspired the book to begin with and it remains a fruit that I have trouble finding every year, so it feels like this hunt that I have to go on. It’s a

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fruit that has led me to have really fantastic relationships with people who grow it. I’ve made friendships with people who have quince trees in their backyards, and I never would have known them except for this fruit. In terms of working with it in the kitchen, it’s such a joy. It’s hard, literally it’s hard to cut, but it’s so rewarding to spend a lot of time with it.

“In the inland Northwest, something that has been a delight is the way that I can live in a city and the farm that I get my vegetables from is just over the train tracks, less than a mile away.” — Kate Lebo


EVERY SEASON IS RAINIER SEASON

But there’s something extra special about Summer

Take a scenic ride on the Mt. Rainier Gondola and enjoy lunch at Washington’s highest elevation restaurant.

Go beyond the day trip. Get your free vacation guide online

CRYSTALMOUNTAINRESORT.COM

VISITRAINIER.COM/CRYSTAL


food + drink

Beervana

Pups and Pints

Taproom dog-park hybrids are a thing— and they’re exactly what we need right now written and photographed by Jackie Dodd ANASTASIA LOGAN, better known as Taz, pours a hazy IPA from a long row of taps at the edge of her indoor dog park. Logan greets a lanky silver mastiff and her human as they wander in the door of Ales and Tails and head toward the impeccably maintained and bright pup play space. Logan knows every dog and owner, every beer on tap, and every inch of the 5,500-squarefoot warehouse that’s welcoming to both man and beast. It’s a dream ten years in the making and only a few months in operation, but has the substantial weight of a business with its roots deep in the ground. Ales and Tails is a collaborative effort of Woodinville’s Good Brewing Co. and Logan, but the brainchild of Logan, who has been nurturing the vision of a dog park and craft beer business quite a while. She spent a decade working for breweries, studying canine behavior, learning business administration and finding the perfect spot to open up shop. The large industrial area next door to Good Brewing’s first location hit every box on her checklist. Launching any business in the middle of a worldwide pandemic isn’t ideal, but this enterprise seems to be exactly the kind of thing that the brews-andbarks-loving world needs at this moment. Word of mouth alone helped it gain a loyal following. 20     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Social distance is built in with a space this large, and airflow was always a priority with dogs and beer co-existing. A state law passed last year allows breweries the option of permitting dogs—regardless of whether they’re service dogs— so Logan saw more green lights than most new business owners. Since then, dog park taprooms have been cropping up around the state. Dogs and their humans couldn’t be happier. Growlerz Seattle in Columbia City combines a local dog park, taproom and doggy daycare for the ultimate dog-lovers’ craft beer destination. After all, the idea for the business was born at a local dog park when Caryn Earl posed the question to fellow dog park visitors: “Would you go to a dog park that served beer?” The answer, of course, was a resounding yes. Growlerz’s indoor and outdoor spaces, events and friendly staff make it a place that you’ll want to visit with your pup, even if it requires a drive. Dogwood Play Park in Cedar Park claims the distinction of being Seattle’s first dog park and drinking establishment and seems to have paved the way for the boom, proving that sipping a beer with your beast is something Washingtonians want. Dogwood serves beer, wine, coffee, tennis balls and dog treats in an indoor/outdoor dog park environment. JUNE | JULY 2021


food + drink

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO You’ll need a well behaved, vaccinated pup and show proof of it. Most spaces will allow (even encourage) you to register your pet online before your visit and include proof of vaccinations, or you can bring the paperwork with you. Don’t forget it, you won’t be allowed in without it. Most locations are age 21 and over, so you’ll have to leave the non-furry kids at home. In most cases, your pet will have had to have had the “Bob Barker” (be spayed or neutered). Bring a leash, collar with identification tags, and clean up after your pets. Know, too, that reservations may be required on busy days.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Growlerz Seattle is a beloved mutt of sorts, a mix of dog park, taproom and doggy daycare. Ales and Tails is a bright play space for people and pups. Anastasia Logan of Ales and Tails, an airy, 5,500-squarefoot warehouse with friendly vibes.

SPOTS TO VISIT ALES AND TAILS

5809 238TH ST. SE, SUITE 3 WOODINVILLE www.goodalesandtails.com

DOGWOOD PLAY PARK 2568 33RD AVE. NE SEATTLE www.dogwoodplaypark.com

DOG YARD

1546 NW LEARY WAY SEATTLE www.dogyardbar.com

GROWLERZ SEATTLE 5269 RAINIER AVE. S. SEATTLE www.growlerzseattle.com

PAWS FOR A BEER

501 HARRIS AVE. BELLINGHAM www.pawsforabeer.com

VOFF BARK & BREW

9731 GREENWOOD AVE. N. SEATTLE www.voffbarkandbrew.com

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food + drink

CRAVINGS TACOS It doesn’t need to be Tuesday to get your taco fix. This downtown spot in Spokane features tacos with house-made tortillas, high-quality, local ingredients and rotating margarita and agua fresca flavors. 10 NORTH POST ST. SPOKANE www.cochinitotaqueria.com

OYSTERS There’s something so refreshing about an oyster on the half shell, and the folks at Taylor’s have perfected the art of harvesting the best. Stop by one of their oyster bars for a communal experience, or take them home to enjoy.

Rylea Foehl Photography

SEATTLE, BOW AND SHELTON www.taylorshellfishfarms.com

Gastronomy

In Wilkeson, Belinda Kelly, left, and Venise Cunningham of Simple Goodness Sisters offer cocktails, mocktails and sodas made with inventive sweet, tart and herbaceous flavors from their farm.

Simple Goodness Sisters written by Cara Strickland WHAT HAPPENS when you mix equal parts entrepreneurial sisters and luscious local produce? Simple Goodness Sisters, a line of non-alcoholic drink syrups with flavors such as rhubarb vanilla bean, huckleberry spruce tip and lemon herb, perfect for mixing with sparkling water or spirits. All of the fruit comes from Belinda Kelly and Venise Cunningham’s 10-acre dairy farm turned cocktail farm. You can sample their cocktails, mocktails and classic soda-fountain treats with a farm-to-table spin at the Soda Shop, open May through December, serving lunch, brunch and snacks. Order syrups and other goodies online, or sign up for their bimonthly Cocktail Farm Club, which offers drink syrups, garnishes, recipes and insider access to new and limited-edition products and flavors. 533 CHURCH ST. WILKESON www.simplegoodnesssisters.com

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GREEK DISHES AND SWEETS You might have to go a little out of your way for this bakery and cafe, operated by the nuns at the St. John the Forerunner Greek Orthodox monastery, but it’s worth it. Try a selection of Greek specialties, such as moussaka and spanakopita, and be sure to pick up some pastries to share or keep all for yourself. 2378 US-97 GOLDENDALE www.stjohnmonastery.org

ICE CREAM Locals laugh about the dishes of ice cream with names such as infant scoop—the portions here are giant, with fun local flavors including huckleberry, along with the classics. For many, nothing is better after a day at the lake than pizza and ice cream—or make that just one massive serving of ice cream. 3938 GARDENSPOT ROAD LOON LAKE www.facebook.com/LoonLakePizza

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BEST PLACES FOR

A COLD DRINK MOX BOARDING HOUSE This spot is a destination for game lovers of all kinds. Take a break from playing or browsing by ordering food, local beer, wine, cocktails—even a selection of meads. 13310 BEL-RED ROAD BELLEVUE www.moxboardinghouse.com

GROSGRAIN VINEYARDS A newcomer to the Walla Walla wine scene, Grosgrain features interesting styles and grapes which don’t ordinarily take center stage—mourvédre, for example, and the uncommon carignan varietal. Sample their wares under an umbrella on the sunny patio. 2158 HALF ACRE LANE WALLA WALLA www.grosgrainvineyards.com

Finistére in Port Townsend blends effortless elegance, an approachable atmosphere and local bounty with big-city know-how.

Dining

Finistére written by Cara Strickland

At first glance, you might think it’s a drive-through coffee stand, since that’s what was there previously. Now, while they do serve coffee, you’ll find a selection of craft cocktails in this tiny bar. Sip your drink at one of the outdoor tables or cozy up indoors.

JUST OFF THE main thoroughfare in Port Townsend, you’ll find Finistére, an effortlessly elegant yet approachable restaurant dedicated to serving the bounty of the area. You’ll find fresh pasta and local seafood, balanced cocktails and housemade sodas along with a selection of local beer and wine. Chef and co-owner Deborah Taylor is a graduate of the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, and her credits include Eleven Madison Park in Manhattan, and Canlis and Staple & Fancy Mercantile in Seattle. She had long dreamed of opening a restaurant with her husband, Scott Ross, after having gained experience in the industry. Covid restrictions became the impetus for creating Lawrence Street Provisions, next door to the restaurant. There they sell specialty kitchen items and foods such as the restaurant’s fresh pasta, which you can cook at home, as well as soups, pastries and coffee. They are thrilled to be back to safe indoor dining, but the patio at happy hour is certainly inviting.

1925 W. FOURTH AVE. SPOKANE www.facebook.com/bijoubeverages

1025 LAWRENCE ST. PORT TOWNSEND www.restaurantfinistere.com

BLUE SPIRITS DISTILLERY There’s something for everyone at this distillery. Try one of their vodkas in cucumber, grapefruit, pepper, espresso or mango. If that’s not your style, try their rum, whisky, gin or tequila. Let them mix you a cocktail and enjoy it on the patio with a selection of small bites. 1310 US-2 LEAVENWORTH www.bluespiritsdistilling.com

BIJOU

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Fast Penny Spirits, Seattle

Amaricano Manhattan

•  2 ounces whiskey (we like Uncle Nearest) •  1 ounce Amaricano

•  2 to 3 dashes Angostura Bitters •  brandied cherry or orange zest to garnish

Stir over ice, strain into a coupe, and garnish with a brandied cherry or large orange zest.

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farm to table

Farm to Table

Falling for Fennel

Two local farmers spread the love for this versatile crop — at their Workin’ Dream Farm written by Corinne Whiting

JONCARLOS SANTOS is a huge advocate of fennel, which he calls an “all-around great little crop.” Although he’s still learning about the flowering plant species after having grown it for three years, he is convinced it’s underrated and underappreciated. Santos, a New Jersey native nicknamed Jonny, owns Workin’ Dream Farm in Arlington with his partner, Jocelyn Stevens. They supply locals with fresh produce, and have plans to expand in the future. The farm name, they say, speaks for itself. “We’d always dreamed of trying to build a sustainable world for ourselves and our community,” Santos commented. “Everyone wins.” 24     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Santos’ upbringing prepared him for farming life. A turning point came when he was in elementary school. His grandmother succumbed to cancer and he had to take more responsibility for what he ate. “I was put on a journey of figuring out where our food comes from,” he said. His concern for the health of humans and the planet had the perfect outlet through farming. He’d asked himself, “Where can I put my power, my passion?” In 2017, Santos and Stevens met at Whidbey Island’s Organic Farm School, which trains neophytes to develop and manage small farms. “We fell in love with farming as well as each other,” Santos said. They spent the next couple of years working at a few


Workin’ Dream Farm

farm to table

“We’d always dreamed of trying to build a sustainable world for ourselves and our community. Everyone wins.”

Workin’ Dream Farm

— Joncarlos Santos, co-owner of Workin’ Dream Farm

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Fennel is a great crop for a small farm or garden, because it’s dependable, consistent and user-friendly. Joncarlos Santos and Jocelyn Stevens co-own Workin’ Dream Farm. They launched it on Whidbey Island, but relocated to Arlington.

farms. At the beginning of 2020, they seized an opportunity to lease land on Whidbey Island. “You can’t pass on an experience like that,” Santos said. He and Stevens love that their job allows them to educate others about their own health as well as that of the environment. On Whidbey, they grew more than 200 varieties of vegetables, particularly crops that can mature within sixty days for a higher turnover rate. Their bounty included beets, radishes, carrots, arugula, salad mix and fennel, which is native to the Mediterranean region. On the island, they had tomatoes and melons, which proved a huge success, and even produced 20 pounds of ginger.

They decided to uproot themselves in November and re-establish their farm in Arlington. Santos notes the agrarian movement happening in America, as folks turn toward destinations like Italy and France to discover foods that are both delicious and new to them. He’s watched the growing popularity of fennel, a member of the carrot family, which in the Northwest pairs well with fish and foraged foods representative of this region. “What I noticed in Washington is we’re trying to grow food that is versatile,” Santos said. Since there isn’t such an intense growing season here, farmers look for “beautiful, nutrient-rich crops” that span several seasons. Options like fennel are great for a small farmer, because it’s dependable, consistent and user-friendly for home gardeners, too. In Washington, fennel can thrive as a perennial plant or the bulbs can be planted annually. Santos and Stevens encourage their customers to incorporate the fronds of the plant in dishes, blending them with a little cream—or using a bit atop a dish to add flavor. You can roast or fry fennel or eat it raw—something they find incredibly delicious on a salad accompanied by a sweet vinaigrette. The best recipe Santos has recently learned involves puréeing fennel with oil and lemon, then pouring it over cedarplanked salmon. Chefs throughout the state are finding more creative ways to use the fragrant, bulbous vegetable. Seattle-based Coro by Salumi makes finocchiona salami crafted of fennel, cracked black pepper and a touch of curry. Frontager’s Pizza Co. at Seabrook in Pacific Beach boasts a pie with fennel sausage, leek, red onion, shaved fennel, mozzarella, cream and Parmesan. Scott Staples, chef and owner of Seattle’s Uneeda Burger, sources fennel from farmers markets in the summer and Charlie’s Produce in the winter. When choosing which fennel to take home in your tote, he believes smaller is better. If the outer layer looks dry or beat up, he advises to discard it. Otherwise, remove the outer layer with a peeler, then shave the fennel thinly using a Japanese mandolin. “It should be delicate to the mouth and influencing in flavor,” Staples said. “Use lemon to keep it from turning brown. Fennel is great in salads and pairs well with tomatoes, basil, tarragon, lamb, pork, cooked and smoked styles of salmon.” His preferred way to get a fennel fix? Braised with lamb shanks. JUNE | JULY 2021

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Popmenu

farm to table

Floral + Fennel - Cocktail

Alderbrook Resort / SEATTLE Trace Sutich MAKES 1 COCKTAIL •  1½ ounces elderflower liqueur infused with fennel (see below) •  ¾ ounce Freeland Spirits Gin •  ½ ounce freshly squeezed lemon juice FOR THE ELDERFLOWER LIQUEUR •  1 fennel bulb •  1 750 ml bottle of St. Germain

Fennel sausage pizza from Frontager’s Pizza Company.

Washington Recipes

Fennel for the People Fennel Sausage Pizza

Frontager’s Pizza Company / PACIFIC BEACH Eric Duensing MAKES 1 PIZZA •  1 10-ounce frozen or fresh dough ball •  6 ounces shredded, part-skim mozzarella •  1/4 cup sliced red onion •  5 ounces fennel Italian sausage, par cooked •  1/4 cup fresh shaved fennel •  1/4 cup diced leek tops •  3 ounces shaved parmesan cheese •  1 cup flour •  1 cup semolina or corn meal •  12 ounces heavy cream •  ⅛ teaspoon sea salt Preheat oven to 500 degrees with a pizza stone on the middle rack. Let the dough come to room temperature. Sprinkle a thin layer of semolina flour or corn meal on a cutting board for later. Press the dough into some flour and either stretch the dough by hand or use a rolling pin to get the dough ball into a flat, circular

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shape. To shape the dough by hand, drape it over your two fists and gradually stretch the dough to a 12-inch diameter circle. (You can use the roller to make it easier, but the dough may be too thin and may not rise properly.) Place crust on the cutting board atop the thin layer of semolina flour or cornmeal. Fill a charged siphon with the cream and salt and make 5 silver-dollar sized dollops on the dough. Sprinkle on mozzarella, then sausage, then fennel and leek. Top with the red onion. Distribute shaved parmesan on top. Using a pizza peel, shovel the pizza in one fluid scoop onto the hot pizza stone. After about 2 minutes, use the peel to turn the pizza 180 degrees. In about 2 minutes, the pizza should be turning brown and the toppings should start to turn bronze and the cheese will melt. Once the edge of the crust is browning, lift the edge of the pizza. When the bottom is starting to brown, it is done. Using the peel, remove from the oven. Use a pizza cutter or knife to slice.

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Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker. Add ice and shake. Double strain into a fresh cocktail shaker using a Hawthorne cocktail strainer and a fine mesh strainer. Add egg white. Cover the shaker with the strainer, placing the coiled wire of the strainer inside the rim. (If you don’t have a cocktail strainer, place a single ice cube in the cocktail to help fluff the egg white and make the cocktail pillowy.) Otherwise, shake without ice vigorously for ten to fifteen seconds. Double strain again using a Hawthorne cocktail strainer and a fine mesh strainer into a coupe. Sprinkle a small line of fennel pollen over the top. FOR THE ELDERFLOWER LIQUEUR Cut fennel stalks and fronds from the bulb. Thinly slice the fennel bulb and place in a large, airtight jar. Add the St. Germain, seal the jar and let steep for five days in a cool, dark place. Agitate the jar daily. Strain the liquid into a clean jar or bottle through a fine mesh strainer, cheese cloth or coffee filter. Store in the refrigerator for up to sixty days.


farm to table

Basil-Crusted Salmon Sandwich with Fennel Salad Uneeda Burger / SEATTLE Scott Staples MAKES 1 SANDWICH FOR TOMATOES •  2 Roma tomatoes •  Salt and pepper to taste •  2 tablespoons brown sugar FOR FENNEL SALAD •  1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil •  Zest of 1 small lemon •  2 teaspoons lemon juice •  Salt and pepper to taste •  1/2 cup fennel (preferably a young fennel bulb with fronds), thinly shaved •  1 tablespoon fennel fronds, roughly chopped

salt and pepper and pour over shaved fennel and fennel fronds to incorporate. FOR THE SALMON 20 minutes before cooking the salmon, sprinkle the basil over the top of it and press it to the flesh so it sticks and lays flat. FOR THE GREEN HERB AIOLI In a blender, purée the olive oil, lemon juice and herbs, then combine with mayonnaise, salt and pepper. Add additional mayonnaise if needed to keep aioli from being too thin. TO SERVE When all the other ingredients are ready for plating, prepare the bun and the salmon. In a Teflon pan, prior to cooking the salmon, heat the pan over medium heat,

add 2 teaspoons of butter (or 1 teaspoon of olive oil) and brown the bun in the pan, then set aside. Wipe out the pan with a paper towel. Then while the pan is still hot, turn the heat up to medium high, add 2 teaspoons of olive oil and put the salmon in the pan with the basil side down. Sear the salmon until it is golden brown (but not too much so that the basil turns black—it should be dark green). Turn the salmon over for just a moment, remove it from the pan and let it rest. Total cooking time should be about four minutes for medium rare. Place the fennel salad on the bottom half of the bun and put the salmon over the fennel salad. Place 4 or 5 slices of tomatoes over the salmon and add the watercress on top. Spread 2 tablespoons of aioli over the top of the bun and top the sandwich.

FOR SALMON •  1 4-ounce salmon fillet, preferably king or sockeye. •  2 tablespoons basil, chopped •  Kosher salt and pepper to taste FOR THE GREEN HERB AIOLI • ½ cup basil leaves •  1/2 cup of cilantro leaves •  2 cups mayonnaise •  2 tablespoons lemon juice •  Zest of one lemon •  ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil •  Salt and pepper to taste TO SERVE •  1 Brioche bun •  1/3 cup watercress or arugula FOR TOMATOES Slice tomatoes into wheels approximately a quarter-inch thick. Put in a mixing bowl and toss with the olive oil, salt, pepper and brown sugar. Lay out evenly on a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper and roast at 375 degrees. Use convection setting if possible. Roast until they’re partially dehydrated and slightly brown. Cooking time should take 30 to 45 minutes, but better to err on the side of underdone then overdone. FOR FENNEL SALAD Whisk olive oil, lemon zest, lemon juice,

Uneeda Burger’s basil-crusted salmon sandwich with fennel salad.

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Photos: Andrew Giammarco

home + design

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home + design

ABOVE These glamping tents, with wood floors, electricity and space heaters, get used most of the year.

Outside the Box

Two Washington designers take risks to create inventive backyard retreats written by Melissa Dalton

Whidbey Island: The Ultimate Glamping Home

These Whidbey Island glamping tents were inspired by a designer’s grandfather, who hunted for moose, elk and grizzly in British Columbia and the Yukon.

FOR THIS REDESIGN of a rundown home on a large lot on Whidbey Island, Tim Pfeiffer got nostalgic. “My grandfather was a big game hunter, so he used to go on these horseback hunting trips for moose, elk, even grizzly, all up in British Columbia and the Yukon,” said Pfeiffer, who is head of interior design and owner of the Seattle firm Hoedemaker Pfeiffer. When Pfeiffer was a kid, one of his grandfather’s old tents was set up in the backyard, “like a clubhouse,” the designer recalled. So, when the owners of this Whidbey Island property asked for a more flexible floorplan that could accommodate multiple overnight guests at one time, Pfeiffer remembered that tent. Now, “everything is set up to be a little bit like camp,” said Pfeiffer. The team downsized JUNE | JULY 2021

and reorganized the floorplan on the main house, then installed four permanent “wall tents” atop decks in the backyard. Each tent is fabricated by a local manufacturer, and Pfeiffer customized the details, such as window placement and scalloped struts at the ceiling, for a timeless look. The walls are of linen canvas called cotton duck, the wood floors are of durable ipe wood, and the framework is a hardy, kilndried, stained oak. Each tent has electricity and space heaters, and Pfeiffer estimates they get used about ten months out of the year. Furnishing the tents was the next step. “The furniture would, of course, have to be able to live without being heated most of the year,” said Pfeiffer, so the

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designer chose antiques and mixed them with a national park lodge Americana aesthetic. Hickory wood beds, antique woven rugs, accent rugs accent chairs and bureaus with plenty of patina fit the bill. Using bluestone, he created “porches” at the entrance of each, which connect to a path to the nearby bathhouse. There, a trio of faucets are mounted at the exterior trough sink, and private shower stalls and toilets are tucked out of site. The cluster of tents fashion private retreats, so the rest of the home can bring people together, from the backyard firepit, to the great gathering room in the main house, where a stone fireplace column soars to the wood-clad ceiling. Strategic alcoves, such as a long window seat and the sleeping loft, ensure plenty of spots for people to mingle, or provide an extra spot to crash. There’s even a wood platform outfitted with a mattress that can be suspended on chains to squeeze in one more bed. “There’s a surf camp vibe,” said Pfeiffer, pointing to the room’s chandelier composed of glass fishing-floats caught up in netting, antique surf boards mounted to the walls and vintage paintings of seascapes. For the homeowners, who have long standing roots on Whidbey Island but also travel extensively, every detail serves up an unplugged, storied 30     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Graypants

ABOVE, FROM TOP The main house has a new floorplan with four permanent, backyard tents. A chandelier of glass fishing-floats, vintage surfboards, a mattress on a wood platform on chains and a loft create a surf camp vibe.

Amos Morgan Photography

Andrew Giammarco

Andrew Giammarco

home + design


home + design

Amos Morgan Photography

CENTER An old garage on Vashon Island is transformed into a space for guests or a secondary living room and a cool party space. AT LEFT Glass and welded steel gives the illusion that it floats in its waterside setting.

retreat from the tech world in which they usually reside. “There’s no TV, no sound system, and no wifi here,” said the designer. “It’s very much about creating an experience for themselves and an opportunity to bring their friends and family along.”

Vashon Island: A Glass “Garage” Is a Multipurpose Destination The design brief for transforming a run-of-themill garage at this Vashon Island house was unique: “The old garage wasn’t really anything special except for the fact that the owners had really good memories in there,” said Seth Grizzle, creative director at the Seattle- and Amsterdam-based Graypants, an architecture and lighting studio. The owners had used the old garage for storage, occasionally clearing space for a game of ping pong and once, a candlelit Thanksgiving dinner. “Their charge was for me to both capture memory and create surprise,” said Grizzle. Such a directive might have seemed contradictory to some, but not to Grizzle, who loves taking seemingly mundane elements of architecture and elevating them. “Turning on a light, going to bed, opening a door—the things that you interact with and touch are often forgotten, so finding ways to celebrate those is, I believe, a way that you can make people smile, and do something unexpected to impact their day in a greater way,” said Grizzle. For the garage, Grizzle started by preserving two cedar-shake covered walls from the old structure. He designed a new garage composed of glass and

welded steel to be placed inside those walls, at an angle and cantilevered over the old foundation wall. This gives the illusion that it floats in its waterside setting. “We sliced up and left the old walls and dropped in a glass box, so the glass box became a theater to watch the old decay and change around it,” said Grizzle. Inside the new garage, walls are covered with sun-resistant Sunbrella fabric backlit by LED strips to foster a warm glow, especially at night. “The structure becomes a kind of lantern in the landscape,” said Grizzle. A sliding glass wall on one side, and a steel-and-glass aircraft door opposite open wide for a fluid interplay between inside and out. That fluidity extends to Grizzle’s design for the new garage’s functional flexibility. The owners can slide open walls for an alfresco gathering, or shut them to fashion an enclosed retreat warmed by the freestanding wood stove. A panel of the builtin Corian bookshelf slides to reveal a bar, making the space ready for a solitary sit with a novel or a casual happy hour. The floors are salvaged wood from the old garage and fold up to reveal extralong twin mattresses, which can be arranged into couches for lounging in the afternoon sun and gazing at the water or laid flat, providing beds for overnight guests. Every detail is a means for the owners to exercise their creativity from one day to the next. “They wanted it to be a guest house, a secondary living room and a really cool party space. A place to have dinner, as much as a place to do some yoga,” said Grizzle. “So, it can do everything and nothing.” JUNE | JULY 2021

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DIY: Mini Backyard A-Frame THINK OF THE ICONIC A-frame, only pint-sized. These petite buildings can be constructed as small as 80 square feet to provide a backyard spot for an office, guest bed or just more room to hang. Here are our tips for getting started. START WITH A PLAN If you’ve seen micro-cabins on social media or on design websites, chances are it started from Derek “Deek” Diedricksen’s “Transforming A-Frame Getaway Cabin” plan. Diedricksen is the author of the 2015 book Microshelters and sells plans via the website www.relaxshacks.com. For $30, the plan lands in your email inbox as a pdf and includes schematics, measurements, photos of joinery, assembly and a materials list. The defining feature of Diedricksen’s Aframe design is the “wing wall”—one of the roof planes lifts up, opening the interior to the yard. Once propped, the wall serves as a roof over the porch, giving the building a larger footprint. LOCATION AND MATERIALS Materials costs will fluctuate depending on location, with estimates ranging from $800 to $1,200 or more. Check local codes regarding whether a building permit is required, and where it can be located on your property. Rules vary by jurisdiction and apply to everything from the structure’s size, to setbacks, to whether permits for plumbing or electricity are needed. CUSTOMIZE Make the design your own. Scour salvage yards for reclaimed wood, windows and doors. It’s environmentally sound to reuse materials, and recycled ones give the finished design character. Polycarbonate sheeting is commonly used for the wing wall, which brings more light into the interior. Build in a couch or bed for easy lounging. Or, keep the floor clear to jam with instruments on an informal backyard stage, as one Portland musician did.

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Photos: Alla Ponomareva

FROM LEFT Alla Ponomareva and her husband, Garrett Hohn, built this tiny A-frame near Missoula, Montana, using Derek “Deek” Diedricksen’s building plans. The build took three weeks, and the finished home measures 80 square feet.

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home + design

Set Up an Outdoor Lounge Kick back stylishly and stay cool this summer

It’s not a true lounge space without a side table for a drink, a magazine and some snacks. Constructed of concrete mixed with glass fragments, the terrazzo 15-inch round side table from Pottery Barn is up to the task, with style and substance to spare. www.potterybarn.com

Lie back and relax in the palissade chaise lounge from the Denmark-based design studio HAY. At 25.5 inches wide with a weatherproof, powdercoated steel frame, this is a slim-lined option for reclining and is available in three colors. www.us.hay.com Stay cool, comfortable and responsible, by protecting your skin from UV rays with the premium beach umbrella from the Australian company Business & Pleasure. Fun colors of the ’70s-style “panel cinque” include pink, ochre and deep green. The cotton fringe gives off a relaxed, boho vibe, perfect for lazing about. www.businessandpleasureco.com

Summer afternoons call for some outdoor space that’s dedicated to doing nothing— stake out that spot with Runnen outdoor decking from Ikea. Made of acacia wood with a brown stain, the easy-to-install floor tiles click together in a classic basketweave pattern and work well for recovering a balcony floor, an old deck or creating an outdoor lounge area in the backyard. www.ikea.com/us 34     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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This year marks 100 years since our grand Promenade first graced our beachfront. So come help us celebrate! The views are spectacular and it offers easy access to kite flying, tandem biking, trail hiking, river kayaking and beach frolicking. Oh, and be sure to pick up the Centennial Booklet full of treasure hunts, trivia, and four chances to win an epic Seaside getaway.

everyone needs to experience the prom!

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Home of the Kitsap Peninsula National Water Trails

Seattle-Tacoma International Airport

Best Western Plus Silverdale Beach Hotel 360-698-1000 | tinyurl.com/989c8dv6 Comfort Inn on the Bay - Port Orchard 360-895-2666 | tinyurl.com/h8ovrzw Guesthouse Inn & Suites - Poulsbo 360-697-4400 | tinyurl.com/zapmreyf Oxford Suites - Silverdale Waterfront 888-698-7848 | oxfordsuitessilverdale.com Poulsbo Inn & Suites - Little Norway 800-597-5151 | poulsboinn.com

Port Gamble Guest Houses 360-447-8473 | portgambleguesthouses.com Red Lion Port Orchard 360-895-7818 | tinyurl.com/y4d3jsu3 Hampton Inn & Suites - Bremerton 360-405-0200 | bremertonsuites.hamptoninn.com Bainbridge Island Lodging Association DestinationBainbridge.com Airbnb - airbnb.com. Type in the name of town to find a place to stay on the Kitsap Peninsula.


mind + body

Hike Healthy Get ready to hit stellar trails this summer with these top tips from a sports medicine doctor and hiker written by Vanessa Salvia

OUR BODIES ARE BUILT to move, and there’s nothing more fundamental to movement than the simple act of walking. Hiking combines that with our biological need for nature. But even something as simple as a blister can keep you from finding your perspective from the top of a summit. “It’s really great to see hiking skyrocket in popularity in recent years,” said Dr. Benjamin Howie. “Hiking is something that most people can do. It’s cheap, it’s accessible, it allows you to be social or you can do it alone, and the best part is exercise, which we all know is the best medicine.” As a provider of primary care sports medicine at Providence Orthopedics and Sports Medicine in Spokane, Dr. Howie sees many orthopedic injuries to joints, tendons, muscles and ligaments—sprains, knee pain and plantar fasciitis are common in hikers. Ill-fitting shoes and an overloaded pack are the primary reasons you might have to visit Dr. Howie. The most important part of finding a pair of hiking shoes is to be sure they fit correctly. It’s essential to try on shoes before buying them. Aim to do this later in the day, because feet swell as the day goes by.

Hiking in the North Cascades is one of the best things you can do for fun and health, and a few tips can truly help.

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One rule of thumb is to take out the insole and ensure that you have a half inch or so of space between your toe and the end of the shoe. “If it feels like it’s squeezing your toes and you can’t fix it with some quick adjustments with the laces, it’s probably not going to be the shoe for you,” said Howie. Another good rule is to not carry more than 20 percent of your body weight, which for a 150-pound person is thirty pounds. “Too much weight, especially with a lot of elevation gain or ups and downs on your hike, is tougher on your knees and ankles and can make some other injuries more likely if you have poor body mechanics, because you’ve got a huge load on your back,” Howie said. Howie has three young children, and the family has recently been hiking together more. He said that as he’s gotten older, all of these injury-related issues have


mind + body

Dr. Benjamin Howie and his family have been hiking together more. As he’s gotten older, he’s amped up his strategies for preventing injury. He helps others by remedying things that can keep them from being active.

TIPS FOR KEEPING YOURSELF MOVING ON THE TRAIL •  Visit an outdoors store or sports shoe store to find someone who is trained to fit shoes. When being fitted, wear the socks you would wear while hiking. •  Wear your new shoes around the house for a week. Walk around the neighborhood, then go for a real hike with them. •  Keep your feet dry by bringing extra socks. Synthetic fiber socks wick moisture better than wool, but wool is better than cotton. •  Block an emerging blister with duct tape, sports tape, moleskin or even a second sock to keep you going on the trail. •  Remember that the sun’s damaging ultraviolet rays are there even when it’s cloudy or cold. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends wearing full-coverage clothing with an ultraviolet protection factor of at least 30 and a hat, and a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher when doing outdoor activities. •  The American Hiking Society advises that to prevent dehydration, drink water slowly during a period of several hours before intense exercise. Drink about a quart per hour during heavy activity. When hiking with children, check their water bottles to be sure they are drinking enough. •  Snack on trail mix or another salty treat to replenish your body’s salts. When you’re sweating, drinking water alone is not enough to replenish potassium and electrolytes.

become more important to think about. One time on a backpacking trip, the family packed too much. He ended up carrying most of the load—and feeling it later. “The ankles and the knees did not like it,” he said. Trekking or hiking poles help maintain better posture and give support, he said, which can really help prevent injury. Warming up before an event is not as important as people think. “The literature doesn’t actually show that warming up prevents injuries,” Howie said. “What matters more is the ‘long-term warmup.’ “Be active in the weeks and months prior

to your big event rather than the minutes prior, because the quick warmup right before you go hiking really doesn’t do much to prevent injury. Overall strengthening, stretching and wearing your shoes beforehand will give you the best results. Dr. Howie is passionate about being able to keep people moving. “If something is slowing someone down, we can fix it and get them back out there,” he said. “I get to help people keep doing things like hiking, which is fantastic for their health. And most of my patients want to get back to being more active, so we have the same goals.”

“Hiking is something that most people can do. It’s cheap, it’s accessible, it allows you to be social or you can do it alone, and the best part is exercise, which we all know is the best medicine.” — Dr. Benjamin Howie

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artist in residence

Art, Airborne

A Seattle aerialist’s journey in movement arts, from circuses to cruises, poised for a leap forward written by Cathy Carroll KATIE HERNDON was spinning 35 feet in the air, doing a double backflip off a trapeze as part of The Flying Aces, a circus touring the U.K. It’s a defining move, one that separates wannabes from pros. It was also a pivotal moment in this aerial artist’s career, which sprung from childhood gymnastics and has evolved toward performance art. After the two spins, extending her arms and being caught by another performer, she’d nailed it, achieving the goal she’d been pursuing for months, but it came with another kind of catch—she discovered she didn’t like doing it. “I realized that I was really stressed, every time,” said Herndon, who has performed and taught aerial skills in Seattle since 2014. “I was kind of constantly anxious all the time. At first, I took that as a challenge of like, you know, I’m going to grow as a human. So I’m going to conquer my fear, blah, blah, blah, and then I realized that I’m spending a lot of time doing something that I do not actually like that much.” In considering her next move, she drew from her bachelor’s in business. “My biggest takeaway was the principle of sunk costs, that it’s a fallacy of human nature that the more you put into something, the more you should hang on to it.” The principle maintains that it’s irrational to make decisions based on the past, because what matters is the future. “The same thing applied in this case with my time,” said Herndon. She was 24 by then, having spent more than a year with the Aces, traveling from city to city in a circus caravan of RVs, and spending eight hours a day setting up rigging, then breaking it down and traveling to the next show. Before that, she’d spent a year performing and teaching with Seattle’s Emerald City Trapeze Arts, building on her experience from the acrobatics and tumbling team at Azusa Pacific University, just east of Los Angeles. She moved away from trapeze to aerial acrobatics with silks, rope, cords and straps. “Things that wrap around me, not things that I have to wrap around,” she said. She trained for eighteen months, auditioning and performing at art events and festivals for nominal fees, teaching tumbling and aerial skills and performing in Seattle. 38

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Katie Herndon does aerial acrobatics with silks, rope, cords and straps, having moved away from trapeze.


It was through the city’s circus community that she met Tanya Brno. They’ve performed and trained together many times over the years. Brno said, “Katie is fearless in her aerial style—big drops, power moves—yet is kind and approachable as well. She applies that tenacity to her artistic and life pursuits and makes many connections along the way. Nothing is too daunting and she is always up for an adventure. It’s inspiring to be around her big yet grounded, nurturing energy.” Herndon landed gigs appearing in aerial acts for large public events and corporate shows through Quixotic, a producer of shows incorporating circus arts with technology and live music. The Kansas City-based company presents immersive, multi-sensory experiences around the world for events such as a global TED Conference in Silicon Valley and product launches for companies such as Garmin and Hewlett-Packard. All the while, Herndon was auditioning without much success and was getting discouraged. Years of performing and training had been taking a toll and she had chronic back issues. “I was in constant pain, and I’d gone to everybody else,” she said. She got a recommendation for an aerialist who was also a practitioner of a therapeutic technique called Soma Neuromuscular Integration, derived from Rolfing massage, which is aimed at the release and realignment of the body. The bodywork resolved her pain, and she became a certified practitioner in 2017. Herndon was several years into her pursuit of being an aerialist by that time, and landed a contract to perform on AIDA Cruises, a German line owned by Carnival Corporation. “It was a really interesting experience, because I got to work with an international cast of other artists and dancers from Germany, Russia, Ukraine, the Philippines—there were only two Americans,” she said. The ship had an expansive, high-tech theater which seated several hundred of the more than 2,000 passengers. She was given a tiny cabin to share with another performer and appeared in multiple productions, from aerial fabrics to being a squirrel in a children’s show. “It was probably one of my favorite characters, but my least favorite costume,” said Herndon. “It was extremely hot. I was just covered in fake fur literally from the tips of my fingers to my toes.” After a year on the ship, she was considering her next step while spending about six months preparing an audition for Cirque du Soleil. The description noted that performers could use any apparatus, but after she did her number, casting officials said they’d wanted to see something else, which they’d never

Soulful Elements

artist in residence

Herndon performing an aerial act at an event, many of which incorporated circus arts with technology and live music.

specified, she said. They told her she could come back next year. “That’s when I started looking at different careers,” said Herndon. In retrospect, the 29-year-old is grateful. Friends who were cast started their contracts in February of last year, just as the pandemic struck. “They all had horrible experiences,” she said. “One got stuck for six weeks on a cruise ship in Dubai, and they were not allowed to leave. It was really bad.” Instead, she was cast in a lead role with a Portlandbased show. “I was really excited about it, and we had a whole tour lined up,” she said. “After my first show with them at the end of February last year, it was canceled.” She pivoted, training in user experience and user interface design, which she does for Kiira Health, a women’s health care platform. “It’s kind of a great merge of all the therapy and artistic things I’ve done and studying business,” she said. In March she became a digital nomad, doing the work from Playa del Carmen, Mexico, but she plans to return to Seattle when live shows resume. Her sights are set on breaking new ground with aerial arts, creating and producing a show elevating performance art. “Where and when have been the questions right now,” she said. “It’s pretty up in the air.” Fortunately, that’s a place where Herndon shines. JUNE | JULY 2021

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STARTUP 42 WHAT’S GOING UP 44 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 45 MY WORKSPACE 46

pg. 46 Tariqa Waters at Martyr Sauce, the Pop Art ingredient for keeping things weird.

Kaelau Aoae

GAME CHANGER 48


startup

Nori CEO and co-founder Paul Gambill’s idea for carbon removal could help save the planet.

In Pursuit of Carbon Removal Nori

Seattle startup Nori flips the coin on incentives for farmers and businesses written by Connor Brook

SOMETIMES THE BEST companies are formed around the simplest questions. This was the case with Nori, a Seattle-based environmental startup. “If putting greenhouse gases into the air is the problem, why wouldn’t we just remove them?” asked Nori co-founder Paul Gambill. In 2017, Gambill and Christophe Jospe launched Nori with the notion that the world needed not just to offset its future carbon dioxide emissions but to aggressively remove CO2 in the atmosphere. The issue for carbon, Gambill realized, is incentive. “The problem is that our current economic system makes it easier and more profitable to emit carbon than not to,” Gambill said. He set out to invert the prevailing system of incentives. An engineer who had worked with mobile app development, Gambill eventually wanted to do something more meaningful than consulting. “As a consultant, by definition, you work on the things that companies don’t want to do themselves.” Intellectually invested in the problem of CO2 emissions, Gambill started a meetup group in Seattle to weigh solutions for a warming planet. “We came to the conclusion that we already had all of the tools and processes that we needed to do it,” he said. “We just needed to do it at scale. The problem was creating the right incentives. If we can make it a valuable way to do it, we can scale it.” The company, bootstrapped to begin with, in the middle of the pandemic managed to close a seed round of $4 million. Nori now has fifteen employees, with nearly half of them in Seattle. Nori works with farmers to remove carbon from the air through carbon sequestration—better planting, plowing and growing techniques and subsequently documenting that carbon removal through an objective third party. What’s the incentive? The farmers are paid to essentially keep carbon in the ground through new farming practices, such as planting cover crops in fields that would otherwise be bare. 42     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Businesses working to offset their carbon footprints can buy these third-party-certified credits called NRTs, or Nori carbon removal tonnes (metric tons). While many businesses are used to buying credits to offset their current and future CO2 emissions, NRTs allow them to buy credits that actively take carbon out of the atmosphere. Currently an NRT is priced at $15 per ton plus a 15 percent fee, of which $15 goes directly to the farmer while Nori collects $1.25. The incentive for businesses is that Nori aims to make the process as easy as a PayPal transaction, and avert corporate costs associated with carbon credits. The vast majority of carbon credits today are used for carbon offsets, not carbon removal. To create a fair marketplace, Nori is working to solve the same problem also faced by investors seeking apples-to-apples standards in the highly variable impact investing or environmental, social and governance investing known as E.S.G. To that end, Nori uses a transparent register of transactions much like the blockchain technology behind cryptocurrency companies Bitcoin or Ethereum. “We’re focused on building a platform that is agnostic to methods of carbon removal,” Gambill said. “We make it easy for suppliers to sell carbon removals to buyers who want to remove their carbon footprint.” While carbon prevention is one worthy pursuit, carbon removal is becoming increasingly important. The annual rate of increase in atmospheric carbon dioxide during the last sixty years is about 100 times faster than previous natural increases, such as those that occurred at the end of the last ice age 11,000 to 17,000 years ago, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. “We need to accelerate the growth rate of carbon removal,” Gambill acknowledged. “For the planet, we need to get to the point where we are removing 50 billion tonnes of CO2 every year. That is a big number.”


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what’s going up?

New Distilleries Break Barriers Women and tribal lands are shattering the shot-glass ceiling of the craft spirits sector written by Kevin Max

Fast Penny Spirits

OVERTURNING A NEARLY 200-year-old law from the Andrew Jackson administration, the Chehalis Tribes licensed and opened Talking Cedar in Grand Mound, the first tribe-owned distillery in the past 186 years. The new 35,000-square-foot restaurant, brewery and distillery will produce 1.8 million gallons of whiskey, gin and vodka. www.talkingcedar.com From the nadir of the pandemic emerged an all-female distillery, Fast Penny Spirits in Ballard. It crafts the traditional Italian herbal liqueur, amaro, made from secret mixes of herbs, flowers and fruit. Co-founders Jamie Hunt and Holly Robinson’s label, Amaricano, is the result of two years of tasting and testing with organic and wild-crafted ingredients. www.fastpennyspirits.com

Women-owned Fast Penny Spirits crafts the traditional Italian herbal liqueur amaro.

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what i’m working on

Yuck! The Psychology Behind the Gross-out A Whitman College professor’s research examines anxiety disorders and disgust interview by Kevin Max

MANY PEOPLE ARE disgusted with Tom Armstrong’s work. Yet that that’s precisely the point that the associate professor of psychology is making. Armstrong, of Whitman College in Walla Walla, found a niche in researching the connection between anxiety disorder and emotions related to disgust, which ended in a feces-filled study called “Forever Yuck,” published in the Journal of Experimental Psychology in January. We had to learn more. What is exposure therapy? Exposure is a technique for treating anxiety-related disorders, which involve excessive, irrational fears. Folks with these disorders go to great lengths to avoid their fears, which in turn fuels the disorder, because they don’t get access to “corrective information.” Let’s say someone gets bit by a dog. Their brain might decide that all dogs bite due to the incident. For many people, being told that other dogs won’t bite won’t resolve the fear. They will need to approach dogs and learn through experience that most dogs are harmless. What was the trigger for the “Forever Yuck” study? For a long time, therapists have been noting that exposure therapy doesn’t work on disgust in the same way it works on fear. Many anxiety-related disorders can involve excessive disgust. For example, many phobias involve things that people consider gross, like insects, small animals and blood. Also, post-traumatic stress disorder can involve experiencing disgust and vomiting when remembering a gross event, like encountering a dead body. We wanted to capture

Tom Armstrong researches disgust and how to treat related anxiety.

the phenomenon underlying these clinical anecdotes in the lab, so that we could understand it better. And we wanted to measure disgust objectively using eye tracking, because in prior studies, we found that looking away from images is a reliable marker of disgust. How many people were involved and what did you expose them to? We exposed 300 participants to images of human feces, which is the universal disgust elicitor. What did the results tell us? We found that people don’t habituate to disgusting images. You can show someone the same image of poop for five minutes straight, and their tendency to look away doesn’t get any weaker. In fact, if anything, it gets stronger. In the last experiment, we paid participants to look at the poop. The computer made a cash-register sound every time participants maintained eye contact with the poop for eight seconds, indicating that they earned another 50 cents. That worked like a charm— people stared down the poop for five minutes. But once the reward

stopped, they went right back to their previous levels of avoidance. What was the most unexpected result in the study? In a follow-up study, we gave participants an anti-nausea drug or placebo and then rewarded them for looking at the poop. When participants had taken the drug, but not the placebo, the rewarded exposure worked, and they continued to look more at the poop afterwards. So there might be some hope for augmenting disgust exposure with anti-nausea drugs. Knowing what you do now, would or how would you change the phrase, “Nothing to see here, keep moving?” In about a dozen experiments, I have shown that people look away from poop. So I would probably try some reverse psychology and say “Hey, want to see some human feces? Look over here!” Although here is the rub: on the very first trial of our experiments, people tend to check out the poop. Then they avoid it on every subsequent trial. So you would have to say “Look here, some poop you have already seen before! Check out this very familiar poop.”

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my workspace In her early 20s, Tariqa Waters lived in Italy as an artist, making murals and teaching art in Catania, Sicily. She later moved to Washington, D.C., and expanded to murals for commercial clients. “It was male-heavy work, and I was trying to find my place in it all,” she said.

Intending to explore Portland as a new home, she met her husband at Sea-Tac airport in 2011, and they “accidentally fell in love with Seattle.” Martyr Sauce in Pioneer Square eventually became her new stage for expression and a Pop Art museum.

Martyr Sauce Satisfies

Seattle’s Tariqa Waters blends Andy Warhol, Pee-wee’s Playhouse and stilettos to grand effect written by Kevin Max 46

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Depending on the day and vibe, Martyr Sauce can feel like the setting for Alice in Wonderland, or a Warhol exhibit tethered to the 1990s or an underground nightclub.


my workspace

“The thing I have heard is that I’m doing stereotypes, but everything I do is authentic,” Waters said. “I grew up like this. Even the traditions that go back to Africa—those haven’t changed that much. Just to dismantle those attitudes within my own culture is fun.”

Photos: Kaelau Aoae

Artwork by Kenji Hamai Stoll

“People don’t know that I’m really goofy and that I’m like this in real life. I’m trying to lampoon a lot of different things, including things within myself,” she said.

Martyr Sauce is open Thursday to Sunday, 1 p.m. to 6 p.m. Admission is $5.

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Doug Parry

game changer

Enough with the Bullsh*t UW professor and colleagues launch a new center to counter disinformation written by Kevin Max ON DECEMBER 1, 2016, Edgar Maddison Welch got into his car in Salisbury, North Carolina, drove 360 miles to Washington, D.C., and walked into a busy pizza parlor with a loaded assault rifle and sidearm. Stories and videos across Facebook, Twitter and YouTube and weaponized by InfoWars’s mouthpiece, Alex Jones, made false claims that Democrats were running a child trafficking ring out of the back of restaurants, including this one, Comet Ping Pong pizzeria in the nation’s capital. Welch shot his rifle three times to blast the door of a back room where he thought he would find evidence of child trafficking. Instead there were kegs of beer … and his confusion. The government’s lawyers prosecuting the case noted that, “Beyond Pizzagate, the Internet is full of wild conspiracy theories where people urge members of the public … to take action.” Yet this was only a small-scale dry run of greater falsehoods that would spread nationally and urge a mob—victims of disinformation—to storm the U.S. Capitol on January 6. Misinformation and disinformation are not new. What is new, however, is the technology, the platforms and the speed at which lies are spread today. To address this growing problem, the University of Washington launched its Center for an Informed Public in Seattle in December 2019, following a $5 million grant from the Knight Foundation. A relevant background propelled UW Associate Professor Jevin West to the top of the list to lead the new center. An associate professor with a doctoral degree in biology, West and fellow biology professor Carl Bergstrom wrote a book and developed a course called Calling Bullshit, Data Reasoning in a Digital World. The course’s description is refreshingly direct: Our world is saturated with bullshit. Learn to detect and defuse it. “It was a response to students’ deference to data,” said West. “I was really concerned that they were not questioning data in the way that they should be with all information.” West had already been studying the way in which information moves in systems and the ways in which communications can facilitate innovation within institutions. Around that time, disinformation through social media channels was quickly forming a parallel world in which facts didn’t matter. People adrift in lies and conspiracy theories resolved to take action against the far-flung falsehoods lighting up their phones. All of this bothered West. “It was Pizzagate and everything else that came in higher frequency,” West said of the motivation from which the center was launched. “It is the collision of professional and personal life, of misinformation and disinformation.” The center is an interdisciplinary collaboration between UW’s Information School, Human Centered Design & Engineering 48     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Jevin West co-authored the book Calling Bullshit, Data Reasoning in a Digital World.

and School of Law. Its mission is “to resist strategic misinformation, promote an informed society, and strengthen democratic discourse.” One problem is that disinformation—intentionally false or misleading information deployed with an underlying strategic intent—is now being disseminated at the speed of the internet through social media platforms, served to the masses through social media algorithms, then fueled by TV pundits and journalists who, in some cases, become unwitting engines of propaganda. “Disinformation and conspiracies spread so fast because these platforms are not about quality—it’s about capturing your attention,” noted West. “It doesn’t matter what it is. It just matters that it captures your attention.” The new center has marshalled considerable academic talent to address the problem of a misinformed public, but West sees the solution as long-term, widespread re-education of people. “This is absolutely critical from K1 to K12,” he said. “Making smarter information consumers is the only way to defend against the bullshit out there.”

“Disinformation and conspiracies spread so fast because these platforms are not about quality—it’s about capturing your attention.” — Jevin West, University of Washington associate professor and director of the Center for an Informed Public


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THE STATE’S 7 MOST

SCENIC HIKES PUT ONE FOOT IN FRONT OF THE OTHER AND REAP THE REWARDS OF WORLD-CLASS VISTAS

written by Amy Bowden

FROM THE RUGGED coastline to alpine meadows and primordial temperate rainforests, Washington claims some of the world’s most wild and wonderful scenery. With three national parks, dozens of world-class state parks and more recreation areas dotting the upper left corner of the Pacific Northwest, Mother Nature beckons beyond any backdoor. Certain spectacular hikes, however, rise to the top of a most scenic list. Here then, are seven of Washington’s most precious natural jewels, yours for the taking, from easy to difficult.

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Wildflowers line the trail in the upper Enchantment basin in early July. (photo: Gemina Garland-Lewis)

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MOUNT FREMONT

LOOKOUT TRAIL Locale: Mount Rainier National Park, Sunrise entrance, usually open late June to mid-October. From Enumclaw, take SR 410 toward Mount Rainier. Enter through the White River entrance, follow the road 14 miles to the Sunrise Visitor Center. / Length: 5.6 miles round trip, 900-feet of elevation gain, about four hours to complete / Level of Difficulty: Moderate / Love: Close-up views of Emmons Glacier, wildflower vistas, mountain goats and a fire lookout.

The Sunrise parking lot at the beginning of this hike alone is scenic enough to make this list. Mount Rainier National Park has five entrances, though most people enter through the Nisqually gate on their way to Paradise. If you’ve never been to the Sunrise side of the mountain via the White River entrance, you are missing an Evergreen State gem. At 6,400 feet of elevation, the Sunrise area is the highest place on the mountain you can reach by car and is open from about late June to mid-October. The Mount Fremont Lookout Trail climbs to the top of Sourdough Ridge, then heads west at the well-marked, five-way trail intersection at Frozen Lake. The trail winds through alpine wildflower fields, then crosses a rocky ridge overlooking grassy green meadows, and ends at one of four fire lookouts in the park. Climb the fire lookout steps and peek inside, then lean against the railing and take in the mountain, almost close enough to touch. Stop for a snack here and keep an eye out for mountain goats grazing the meadows below. 52     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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Take in the views from the Fremont Fire Lookout in Mount Rainier National Park’s Sunrise area. (photo: Nick Lake/ TandemStock.com)


THE ENCHANTMENTS TRAVERSE Locale: Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest. From the western edge of Leavenworth, turn onto Icicle Creek Road from U.S. 2. Drive 8.4 miles, turn left onto Forest Service Road 7601 and go 3.7 miles to the Stuart Lake Trailhead. / Length: 18 miles, 4,500 feet of elevation gain, about twelve hours to complete / Level: Difficult / Love: Alpine blue lakes, and the payoff for a grueling climb up Aasgard Pass—a mountain paradise with herds of roaming mountain goats.

To call the Enchantments Traverse one of the most magnificent alpine paradises on the planet is no overstatement. Just listen to the names of the lakes you will pass on your hike: Tranquil, Isolation, Inspiration, Perfection, Sprite, Leprechaun. While the views are magnificent, you have to earn them on an 18-mile hike with punishing elevation gains. The most popular way to hike this point-to-point trail is to begin at the Stuart Lake Trailhead and end at Snow Lakes, so you’ll need to park a car at both trailheads and get a Northwest Forest Pass or arrange a pickup. Do it as a multiple-day backpacking excursion or a grueling 18-mile day-hike. Overnight permits are scarce and are won via a lottery that opens annually on Feb. 15. Typically, a limited number of walk-up permits are available Mondays through Saturdays from the Leavenworth Ranger Station, though at the time of this writing this has been suspended and replaced with permit quotas released into the reservation system on a weekly basis due to the pandemic. Hikers who brave the conditions are rewarded with crystal blue lakes and stunning views along Aasgard Pass. FROM TOP Maria Lee rock hopping in front of Isolation Lake on a thru-hike of the Enchantments. Backpackers begin the descent from the Upper Core Zone to the lower, taking in views of Perfection Lake and Prusik Peak. Hikers cross late June snowmelt in the Core Zone of the Enchantments. A mountain goat and kid take a break below the eastern flanks of Dragontail Peak. (photos, from top: Jim Meyers, Gemina Garland-Lewis, Gemina Garland-Lewis, Jim Meyers)

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HOH RIVER

TRAIL

FROM TOP Take a day hike to Mineral Creek Falls. Old growth forest towers over the Hoh River Trail. (photos, from top: Ben Herndon/ TandemStock.com, Gemina Garland-Lewis)

Locale: Olympic National Park. From Forks, head southeast on highway 101. Turn east onto Upper Hoh Road. The trail begins at the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center. / Length: 37 miles roundtrip (shorter day hikes possible), 600 to 4,300 feet elevation gain, one hour to three days to complete. / Level: Easy day hike, moderate backpacking trip / Love: Hike whatever distance you choose through a temperate rainforest where Roosevelt elk roam along a trail that’s relatively flat for the first 13 miles.

If a cathedral of green through a temperate rainforest sounds appealing, look no further than the Hoh River Trail in Olympic National Park. Winding through the rainforest feels like hiking through a fairy tale. Moss drips from ancient tree branches while mist weaves between your hiking boots. The steady, soothing sound of water is always with you, letting you walk quietly

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in communion with the trees. The trail begins from the Hoh Rain Forest Visitor Center and extends 18.5 miles to the Blue Glacier moraine where backpackers can get incredible views of Mount Olympus. If 37 miles roundtrip sounds too far, this hike can be shortened into a day hike to Mineral Creek Falls (2.7 miles one way), Cedar Grove (4 miles one way), or 5-Mile Island (5 miles one way).


OZETTE TRIANGLE LOOP Locale: Olympic National Park / Length: 9.2 miles, no elevation gain, six hours to complete / Level: Moderate / Love: Red cedar forest, rugged and deserted stretch of the Olympic coastline, gulls careening overhead, sea lions barking just offshore and petroglyphs (stop at the Ozette Ranger Station for a map and tips for finding them).

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT A pair of bald eagles perch on the rocks at Sand Point on the Ozette Triangle Loop. Hikers cross boardwalks while on the trail. Maria Lee walks along the beach with her 2-year-old son. (photos: Jim Meyers)

This underrated trail is spectacular and not nearly as crowded as some of the state’s better-known hikes. A true triangle, it includes three legs, each roughly 3 miles long. Begin at Lake Ozette, through a forest of red cedar along a boardwalk. At 3.3 miles, you will arrive on a rugged stretch of the Olympic coastline where overnight camping is allowed with a permit. The second leg takes you along the beach, where you will feel the wild desolation that characterizes Olympic’s beaches. This section is best at low tide. Expect no cars, no roads and no crowding. At Wedding Rocks, look for petroglyphs carved by ancestors of the Makah tribe, depicting whales and sailing ships. Look for the large disc marking the trail leading back to Lake Ozette.

A family walks along the beach of Sand Point at low tide. (photo: Jim Meyers)

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FROM TOP Climb the watchtower at Mount Constitution’s summit. View the Salish Sea and distant mountains. (photos, from top: Rolf Erickson/San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau, San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau)

SAHALE ARM TRAIL Locale: North Cascades National Park, after the road to the trailhead opens in early July. / Length: 12 miles round trip, 4,600 feet of elevation gain, six hours to complete / Level: Difficult / Love: Glacier lilies, whistling marmots and a spectacular glacier herald your arrival at Sahale High Camp, which will make you feel as if you’re in the Swiss Alps.

This trail has a reputation for offering the best-day hike in the North Cascades for a reason—you’ll be standing at 7,600 feet with the majesty of an entire mountain range laid out before you. Clouds swirl in the valleys below and a glacier unfurls at your feet. Marmots whistle in welcome, and you may

see mountain goats or black bears roaming in subalpine meadows below. Start on the Cascade Pass Trail, hiking 3.7 miles to a left fork that ascends Sahale Arm to the Sahale High Camp. This section is moderate, but steep and with elevation gain as you approach the high camp and its fortifying views.

FROM TOP Backpackers enjoy views of the North Cascades from Sahale Arm. A highly coveted home for the night at the base of Sahale Glacier, a short climb up from Sahale Arm. (photos: Gemina Garland-Lewis)

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MOUNT CONSTITUTION LOOP Locale: Orcas Island. Follow I-5 north of Seattle for 83 miles. Take Highway 20 west to Anacortes for the ferry bound to the San Juan Islands. / Length: 6.7 miles round trip, 1,500 feet of elevation gain, four hours to complete / Level: Moderate / Love: Panoramic scenery of the San Juan Islands and mountain peaks including the North Cascades and Mount Rainier. Climb a stone watchtower built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s for even better views.

Mount Constitution on Orcas Island is the highest point on the San Juan Islands, so once you reach the summit a panorama of the entire San Juan Archipelago and the Salish Sea unfolds. Begin in Moran State Park through a forest trail carpeted with moss and pine needles, and soon you’ll emerge onto rolling green hills and vistas which will spur you onward. The views get better and better as you hike to the summit of Mount Constitution, where a stone watchtower awaits. Climb the tower for even more superlative views of the sea and mountain peaks in the distance.


Locale: Eastern Washington. From Ellensburg, head east on I-90 and take exit 137 to merge onto WA-26 east. Go 83 miles to Washtucna and follow signs for Palouse Falls State Park. / Length: 1 mile roundtrip, 803 feet of elevation gain, less than an hour to complete / Level: Easy / Love: Washington’s official waterfall, Palouse Falls, is a sight to behold. Easy strolls on interpretive trails reward all ages and abilities. Photographers’ “golden hour,” the last hour before sunset and the hour after sunrise, lives up to its name here. Bonus: nearby Walla Walla wineries.

The beauty here has been in the making since the last Ice Age. When the Missoula Floods swept across eastern Washington at the end of that epoch, they left behind the basalt cliffs of Palouse Falls. At a height of 198 feet, it is the official state waterfall and is something to behold, especially at sunset, when golden light illuminates the cascade in a soft, ethereal glow. This short, family friendly outing offers immediate gratification—you can practically see the falls from the parking lot. Meander to three official overlooks for the pounding falls—there is no officially maintained trail to the base of the falls. Excellent interpretive signs detail the area’s geologic history. Palouse Falls offers beauty and immediate gratification—it’s almost visible from the parking lot. (photo: Jim Meyers)

PALOUSE

FALLS JUNE | JULY 2021

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A RARE

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A RENOWNED BUTTERFLY EXPERT, NATURAL HISTORY WRITER, NOVELIST & POET IS THE SUBJECT OF A FEATURE FILM, HAS THREE NEW BOOKS, AN ALBUM & A NEW FOCUS written by Cathy Carroll

SWEATING HARD and grunting, he made slow, steady progress, keeping his eyes down in the steeper bits, which showed him the tracks of bobcat and deer and the scat of coyote. “Finally topping out, some fortyeight hundred feet above Puget Sound, I gained the spine called Juniper Ridge,” Robert Michael Pyle wrote in Where Bigfoot Walks: Crossing the Dark Divide. “A big orange day moth wafted overhead, and a huge nymph of a short-horned grasshopper, about as fast and graceful as I, trundled up the trail. Given the choice, I would be the moth. … When I reached the ridgeline at last, feeling lightheaded at this little success and the grand views, I stood, legs apart, and gazed east.” A breeze plucked a small, mottled gray-and-beige feather he’d tucked into the band of his gray felt hat, dropping it on a rock just over the edge. Before he’d left his farmhouse in the Willapa Hills, his wife, Thea Linnaea Pyle, an artist and botanist, had asked the

Yale- and University of Washington-trained butterfly expert to promise not to chase the winged nectar-feeders while wearing his heavy pack. “But this seemed safe, so I inched over, cleverly facing uphill so as to keep my purchase on the slope,” Pyle wrote. “I bent, reclaimed the feather, and stood up. Then, having risen to a lighter head than I remembered, I began to fall over backward. “Swinging at thin air with Marsha, my big butterfly net, I caught enough breeze to tug my higher-than-usual center of gravity back across the fall line and landed on my knees facing uphill. Crawling to the ridge I sat, shook, and looked down the route I’d almost bought. The long, steep slope offered no arrest for hundreds of yards. Rolling over the sharp and lumpy pumice, my joke of a load shoving my face into the cheese-grater slope, I could have been badly injured and stranded far below. I branded BE CAREFUL, DUMMY! on my frontal lobe, rose with difficulty, and went on.” JUNE | JULY 2021

FAR LEFT Robert Michael Pyle has encyclopedic knowledge of butterflies and plants the world over, yet still finds transcendence in the forest surrounding his home in Grays River. (photo: Cam Östman)

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T

FAR RIGHT After a swarm of bees took up residence in the living room wall of Robert Pyle’s home, he had a permanent home built for them in lieu of removing them. Three hives are now within the wall. (photo: Cam Östman)

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HE ESTEEMED natural history writer, novelist and poet was two weeks into his month-long hike into the heart of the Dark Divide, the largest unprotected roadless area in western Washington, about 76,000 acres in the Gifford Pinchot National Forest, stretching from Mount St. Helens to Mount Adams. With forests of 500-year-old trees, a home to the endangered northern spotted owl, it has been in the crosshairs for loggers, road builders and those who want to keep it wild. Pyle’s trek formed the basis for the film The Dark Divide, released last fall with actors David Cross portraying Pyle and Debra Messing in the role of Thea. Getting a feature film made about a lepidopterist with a Guggenheim Fellowship exploring the healing power of nature in a place known for Bigfoot sightings—a mix of Jack London and Henry David Thoreau—was not easy. For a decade, award-winning Los Angelesbased film director Tom Putnam kept on that uphill path, Pyle’s writing resonating with the displaced Oregonian’s love for a childhood spent hiking and fishing in the Gifford Pinchot forest. One benefit of the lengthy effort was that it allowed Putnam to weave a script incorporating seven of Pyle’s twenty-four books, particularly the poems he channeled after Thea’s death in 2013, after a decade of living with ovarian cancer. That emotional palette illuminates Pyle’s insights into other dark divides: between love and loss, logger and environmentalist, Native and non-Native American, science and superstition, human and Sasquatch. Above all, Pyle considers one divide the most dangerous—the one that humans put between themselves and nature. “This is the centerpiece of my whole philosophy,” he said. “That people and nature are not a duality. They must not be. When there’s a line between humans and the rest of nature, then we are undone, for we have to consider ourselves to be an intimate, an integral part of nature and vice versa. If we retreat to nature as if it’s something other than ourselves, it licenses all the enormities we may commit against the rest of nature. So, as I say, one is in nature everywhere, since there is nothing else.” Throughout his work, particularly in his love letter to the place where he was drawn forty years ago, Sky Time in Gray’s River: Living for Keeps in a Forgotten Place, he details how a simple walk out his back

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door to the compost one morning can be part of what builds a life that’s transformative—even ecstatic: “I was arrested by the sight of a leaf pinioned on a rush spike. … It hung there, impaled as it fell from the tall white wand of the birch. Shivering on the light November air, the leaf was like a moment of grace before the fall,” he wrote. “… None of this is high adventure, but it meets my hope for a home where boredom remains at bay. … See the bleeding hearts fan, the trilliums crack, the banana slugs strike out from their cold-weather hideaways for fresh pastures of moss … on what Robert Frost called ‘Blue Butterfly Day.’ These things are as important to me as love, and in fact, that’s what they are.” Long out of print, Counterpoint Press reissued the nature writing classic in paperback in January, just a few months after releasing Nature Matrix. It encompasses Pyle’s ethic and wit, from his experience as a young national park ranger in the Sierra Nevada to observations on the streets of Manhattan to a deep profile of fellow lepidopterist Vladimir Nabokov. Pyle’s newest book of poems, The Tidewater Reach, followed. In the essay collection, named a finalist for the prestigious PEN Award, he reconsiders his trademark concept, “the extinction of experience … People who care may make choices to conserve; but people who don’t know, don’t even care. What is the extinction of a condor or an albatross to a child who has never known a wren?” After a trifecta of a movie, three books and a prize nomination, came the winter release of the album Butterfly Launches from Spar Pole, with fellow Willapa Hills resident and Nirvana bassist Krist Novoselic on acoustic guitar. As the world was locking down, Pyle’s was opening up. His agent called. The time seemed ripe for asking if he’d like to do a new book. The 73-year old would. It will draw from his half century of environmental and conservation work, born in the late 1960s, when Pyle was at UW. He’d discovered that an old dump covered with dirt, crawling with rats and leaking methane, had been a thriving marsh around 1912, when his grandmother studied there. The university had plans for it—a parking lot and playing fields. While other students were marching against the Vietnam war and taking over the president’s office on upper campus, Pyle led a few hundred protesters to occupy the fill, demanding topsoil and trees. They won, and in the fifty years since, it has become one of the finest urban wildlife habitats in the nation, home to UW’s Center for Urban Horticulture and the 74-acre Union Bay Natural Area, an ecological restoration laboratory.


“THIS IS THE CENTERPIECE OF MY WHOLE PHILOSOPHY. THAT PEOPLE AND NATURE ARE NOT A DUALITY. THEY MUST NOT BE. WHEN THERE’S A LINE BETWEEN HUMANS AND THE REST OF NATURE, THEN WE ARE UNDONE, FOR WE HAVE TO CONSIDER OURSELVES TO BE AN INTIMATE, AN INTEGRAL PART OF NATURE AND VICE VERSA.” JUNE | JULY 2021

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MORE ONLINE

For clips from The Dark Divide and more about the album Butterfly Launches from Spar Pole, visit www.1889mag.com/ robert-michael-pyle

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Robert Michael Pyle with his butterfly net, “Marsha,” at his home in Grays River. David Cross added comic touches to his portrayal of Pyle in the film The Dark Divide. Two of Pyle’s twenty-four books. Pyle and Debra Messing, who portrayed Pyle’s late wife, Thea Linnaea Pyle, an artist and botanist. Messing took the role in part to explore her mother’s death from cancer, director Tom Putnam said. (photos, clockwise from left: Cam Östman, courtesy of The Dark Divide, courtesy of The Dark Divide)

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During that time, Pyle established insects as a conservation concern, and founded the Xerces Society for Invertebrate Conservation, which has led to a focus on insect conservation around the globe. The nonprofit’s executive director, Scott Hoffman Black, internationally renowned in his field, recalled his first introduction to “Dr. Pyle,” the illustrious author of the National Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Butterflies, which Black bought as a young man. “But once I met him, I found he was really one of the easiest people to communicate with,” he said. “His affable character puts everyone at ease, and he is thoughtful of everyone he meets—making sure he engages them in meaningful conversation. People walk away from meeting Bob enriched by the encounter and inspired to become more involved with butterfly conservation.” Pyle’s work has extended from Tasmania to Tajikistan, New Jersey to New Guinea, from exotic wilderness to damaged lands such as the Willapa Hills—open field for literary and natural history writing. “There are reasons for that. It’s a pretty beat up, over-logged, wet, soggy, ignored place,” said Pyle. “Subtle in its terms, but I found those terms compelling, and they’ve been very rich to me for forty years.” This new book, though, will head in a new direction. “I still care and I’m still active and mildly hopeful, but I am exhausted by the jeremiads—and the elegies—and the testimonies of loss,” he said, wincing. There’s an entire genre of important, vital books about climate change (including Moral Ground: Ethical Action for a Planet in which Pyle’s testimony is among those of more than eighty visionaries, from the Dalai Lama and Barack Obama to Gary Snyder). “Well, I don’t want to write another one of those. I don’t want to write anything more … about loss and what’s coming.” He eschews Pandora as well as Pollyanna. “What I want to write about now are the stories in my life that have kept me going. The joy. The fun. The celebration. Like what Patti Smith sings in ‘Jubilee:’ ‘ Come on girl, come on boy, be a jubilee.’ The gratitude of living and that which the earth, in all of its diminished condition thanks to us, continues to furnish and will continue to furnish depending on our focus and depending on our willingness to look closely. Pay attention. And truly attend to the real physical attributes of the living and supportive world.” This credo is largely what distinguishes The Dark Divide’s male protagonist from those of nearly every other film, said the director. “One of the things I loved about Bob’s book is that he shows a very different

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perspective on what it means to be a man or what it means to take control of your life … and it was something that I related to a lot more than Bruce Willis in Die Hard. To watch a movie about this introverted, introspective quiet person … and watch him grow into something more self confident and stronger. That was really exciting to me. That was the kind of role model I want to see in movies more, and that I want to be a part of helping create, because I think it’s much more realistic and speaks to our better angels.” Yes, Pyle’s strong willed and tough, said Putnam. “But his engine is kindness and compassion, and I


think he’s one of those people who showed me that those are strengths and not vulnerabilities.” He hopes his film reveals, particularly in its quiet moments, the poet’s gift for beautifully laying bare some of the most painful moments in his life. The camera lingers, and we watch as Cross portrays Pyle stopping on the trail, looking at flowers that remind him of Thea. “We just sit there for like a minute, and watch his emotion sort of tumble out in a way that I think surprises him,” said Putnam. “That is all Bob, I think, in terms of that willingness to share your innermost self with people … it’s very present in his

poetry, in particular the couple of books of poetry he wrote after Thea had died, which are, I mean, heartbreaking.” All the spiritual succor Pyle requires, though, is in the physical world, and the act of noticing the particular. “Preferably the particular which is beyond our own selves and egos, and it will take us even momentarily outside our quotidian concerns and worries and preoccupations. I obsess over these things like anyone does, but I try to make darn sure that every single day I at least go out and allow myself to be beguiled. And enchanted. And seduced by the simplest details.” JUNE | JULY 2021

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Aouinet Legraa: Nine months after a fireball was seen above western Algeria in July 2013, hunters stumbled upon fresh fusion-crusted stones, a relatively common type of meteorite called eucrites. Many eucrites are breccias, composed of angular, broken fragments, but Aouinet Legraa is a superbly fresh example of an unbrecciated eucrite that crystallized from molten magma.

SLICES OF STARDOM photography by Neil H. Buckland WE WOULDN’T BE the first to say that the Northwest is out of this world. Now you can see just how true that is in a new exhibit featuring large-scale fine art prints of micro photographs taken from the interior of lava rocks from Oregon and other planets in our solar system. “Cosmic Microscapes,” a collaboration between Seattle photographer Neil H. Buckland and University of Washington professor and meteorite scientist Tony Irving, marries art and science, illuminating the dazzling aesthetics of meteorites. Small pieces of the Moon, Mars and asteroids were sliced paper-thin and photographed at staggeringly high resolution to produce prints of unprecedented scale. The images were captured from glass microscope slides that contain rock samples sliced and polished to a thickness of just 30 microns, about a third of the width of human hair. To the naked eye, such thin sections can appear colorless, nearly transparent, but special lighting reveals colors and style not unlike those of a Jackson Pollack painting. As an art photographer, Buckland was not satisfied with the image quality produced by a standard scientific microscope and digital sensor. He spent a year building a new system from the ground up with a professional camera at its core and the ability to stitch hundreds of images together for enormously detailed, large-scale fine art prints. They are the subject of a new exhibit, “Cosmic Microscapes: Seeing Into Rocks from Oregon & Space,” at the High Desert Museum in Bend, Oregon, through July 18. JUNE | JULY 2021 1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE      65


Northwest Africa 10761: This Martian meteorite is a coarsegrained gabbroic shergottite, formed by relatively slow but steady cooling of a body of magma beneath the surface of Mars. This image, shot in parallel-polarized light, shows that it contains large prismatic grains of pyroxene, exhibiting variable beige, blue and yellow colors, caused by variations in chemical composition as the grains grew from the parent magma. Sepia brown areas are pockets of glass formed by localized shock melting of the bulk rock. Tiny amounts of trapped Martian atmospheric gases have been detected in these portions of other shergottite specimens.

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FROM TOP Neil H. Buckland, left, and Tony Irving stand with a print at their exhibition, “Cosmic Microscapes: Seeing Into Rocks from Oregon & Space,” at the High Desert Museum in Bend, Oregon. Northwest Africa 12839: This lunar meteorite is similar to many basalt lava outcrops at the Apollo 12 and Apollo 15 landing sites. We have no way of knowing from where exactly on the Moon this meteorite was launched, except it was probably from one of the mare basins on the nearside. This image, shot in partially cross-polarized light, shows a glassy material called maskelynite, formed by shock transformation of crystalline plagioclase during ejection from the Moon. The thin section of rock from which this image was taken is on display in the exhibit. Mount Hood Andesite: Andesite is not as common as basalt, but it occurs in many volcanic mountain ranges such as the Cascades and Andes and in the Aleutian Islands and Japan. This image, shot in cross-polarized light, shows crystals which grew underground in the parent magma prior to eruption. The grouping of mineral grains on the left is a crystalline aggregate formed within Mount Hood magma before it erupted and was incorporated into the final batch of partly molten magma that came to the surface. The thin section of andesite from which this image was taken is displayed in the exhibit.

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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 72 ADVENTURE 74 LODGING 76 TRIP PLANNER 78

pg. 78 A trip to Coeur d’Alene includes golf at an island green reached by boat.

Idaho Tourism

NORTHWEST DESTINATION 84


MOSES LAKE

ROAD TRIP!

Your Home Base for Hiking + Adventure

PARK & PLAY

DESERT DAY HIKES

◉ Explore beautiful city parks, playgrounds, ballfields, and lakeshore access

◉ Columbia National Wildlife Refuge ◉ Sun Lakes—Dry Falls State Park

◉ Swim at the Surf ‘n Slide Water Park (open through Labor Day weekend)

UNWIND

◉ Enjoy great restaurants, Mexican food, wineries, and breweries ◉ Relax at the Japanese Peace Garden ◉ Visit the Moses Lake Museum & Art Center

◉ Columbia Basin Wildlife Area ◉ Potholes Reservoir

BRING THE BIKES

◉ Ride the Moses Lake BMX bike track ◉ Pedal the Activity Trail around town to several parks and along the lake ◉ Explore endless back road and gravel ride options

MOSES LAKE Events ◉ Moses Lake Farmers’ Market: Every Saturday through October ◉ Surf ‘n Slide Water Park: Open through Labor Day weekend, cityofml.com ◉ Sand Scorpions Bounty Hole & Freestyle Mud Tracks: Sept. 18th, sandscorpions.org For upcoming events, visit tourmoseslake.com


travel spotlight

Poulsbo Historical Society events include the Liberty Bay Festival and Poulsbo Boat Rendezvous, August 25 to 29.

Seafaring Summer Sail into the Kitsap Peninsula’s rich natural and cultural heritage on the Salish Sea written by Mary Grace Ward

Karen Shields

IN POULSBO, it’s easy to be transported back to the early 20th century, the wind in your hair as you board the Hyak, the most beautiful of the “mosquito fleet” steamers, with its bright red “K” insignia on a white band encircling its black smokestack, her brass fittings and trim polished to a high glow. You’d take your seat in a highbacked leather chair, or maybe in back, on a wooden bench along with your fellow market women with their crates and baskets, on their way to the Saturday market in Seattle. The Hyak Replica Pilothouse at the Poulsbo Maritime Museum pier is just one way to escape to the seafaring past and explore the area’s rich heritage. (The spot also offers the only telephone-wire-free view of Liberty Bay from Front Street.) Two more museums, the Heritage Museum and Martinson Cabin offer yet more fun and enriching experiences, and all are free of charge. Look for the Poulsbo Historical Society’s summer events around the people, culture and animals of the Salish Sea as well as the traditional Midsommer Festival, in honor of the town’s Scandinavian heritage. July events will celebrate what it means to be an American, as well as the people who have helped shape the community. Mark your calendar for the Liberty Bay Festival and Poulsbo Boat Rendezvous August 25 to 29. For a full calendar of events, visit www.poulsbohistory.com. For more fun on the Kitsap Peninsula, from cycling, paddling, running and hiking to exploring parks, gardens, music, art and food, visit www.visitkitsap.com.

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Idaho is waiting; sand between your toes, a smile on your face, surrounded by wilderness. Rafting in Idaho is escaping into the wild, escaping the day-to-day world to splash through waves, take in incredible sites, see wildlife, and make memories. Guided rafting started in Idaho and it’s still the best place to find your adventure. For more information and to find an Idaho outfitter visit

RAFTIDAHO.ORG

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adventure

Berry Adventurous

Add wild huckleberry and blackberry picking to your next hike, camping trip written by Jen Sotolongo

WE ALL HAVE our summer traditions—hiking, watersports and camping are likely on your list, but foraging for wild berries is something that should be on there, right alongside them. Some great summer memories are made from trekking up mountains and through forests, paddling pristine lakes or sleeping under the stars. Add to it savoring dark, juicy, wild berries, plucked right from where they grew, juice dotting your sun-kissed chin. All around us wild berries are there for the picking—especially blackberries and huckleberries. Seventeen species of blackberries thrive statewide, including the small, sweet native trailing blackberry of western Washington. Most of America may never meet a huckleberry in the wild, but we can claim we’ve never met one we didn’t like. So, mark your calendar. Aim to pick huckleberries in July and blackberries in mid-August. Ready to indulge in some of nature’s finest gifts? Wild berries can be found throughout the state, and here are some tips for finding them in some favorite spots.

Port Townsend Berry hunters can find Himalayan blackberries at all of the local state parks in Port Townsend, as well as in some natural area county parks, including Gibbs Lake and Irondale Beach Park. Although this type of blackberry is an invasive species, the fruit is edible. At Fort Worden State Park, you can plan a camping trip around berry picking. Pitch your tent next to the beach where you can snack on your pickings while taking in the views of Whidbey Island and the North Cascades. “Himalayans are all over the place,’’ says Kathy Darrow, a freelance botanist in Port Townsend. “There is a huge network of public trails in Port Townsend that have Himalayans along them.” It’s important to find clean patches, located away from heavily trafficked roads, she said. Considered a noxious weed, the Himalayan variety may be sprayed with pesticides. Avoid picking berries near high-traffic areas and inquire about pesticides with city authorities when in doubt. 74     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

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adventure

When you head out to gather, consider building a relationship with the land by volunteering with a local trail or park organization, acknowledging the Native people who have cared for the land for thousands of years prior, and observe the ecosystem in action—notice the other creatures that enjoy the berries as much as you do. Take only what you need and leave enough for others, too. Bring gloves to protect against thorns and a large ziplock bag or sturdy container so you can freeze berries that you don’t use immediately. Bake some pies, blend some smoothies and savor them as you reflect on your berry-picking adventures.

Rika Ream

PICK RESPONSIBLY AND ENJOY

Blackberry picking in Seattle can be a bit tricky, thanks to some gray areas around the legality of foraging in city parks. Officially, foraging in city parks is not allowed, however many people do so without repercussion. Carey Thornton, a Garden and Community Educator for the Tilth Alliance, who teaches classes about gathering wild foods suggests asking the following questions before picking any food not on your own property: Who stewards this land and do you have permission to be there? While city parks are there for all to enjoy, they are often managed by volunteers who steward the land and bring the ecosystem back to its native and natural state. They do this because Himalayan blackberries form dense, impenetrable thickets, which limit land usage and impede wildlife access to water and other resources. The invasive plants displace native vegetation, reducing the diversity of both plants and animals, according to the state Noxious Weed Control Board and the Washington State University Extension. Despite these problems, Thornton noted the benefits of the berry-bearing plant. Instead of seeking blackberries in parks, Thornton loves to keep an eye out during her neighborhood walks. She finds them in derelict and abandoned lots or in back alleys behind someone’s home. “Knock on the door of that neighbor and ask if you can pick their blackberries,” she said. Thornton uses wild foraging as a way to build community and learn about the ecosystem in her own neighborhood. Her philosophy is not to take without giving back and suggests looking into park stewardship volunteer opportunities.

Mount Spokane On the eastern side of the state, you can indulge in another favorite Pacific Northwest treat: the huckleberry. Found in forest clearings among the conifers at altitudes above 3,000 feet,

Rika Ream

Seattle

FROM TOP Pick wild huckleberries at Mount Spokane. Bring a container for taking huckleberries home from Mount Spokane.

huckleberries start to ripen at lower elevations mid- to late-July, continuing to mature as the elevation increases. Mount Spokane is abundant with huckleberries. Pat Munts, the Small Farms and Urban Agriculture Coordinator for WSU Spokane suggests searching for huckleberries along Mount Kit Carson Loop Road or along the Nordic skiing trails at Selkirk Lodge, which have views of the Spokane Valley and Coeur d’Alene. Finding the berries means scrambling up hills and through the brush, while being mindful not to destroy the environment. Wear sturdy shoes and long pants to protect from the brush, and bring plenty of water and bug spray. A bear bell will help warn the bears that you’re stopping by to share their snack. While visiting Spokane, Munts suggests pairing the trip with a whitewater rafting excursion or cooling off by taking a dip in a local lake. JUNE | JULY 2021

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Photos: Lotte Hotel Seattle

lodging

FEATURES The spa at Lotte Hotel is the continuation of a dream from which you awaken then close your eyes and try, in vain, to re-enter. Though tangible, the spa is ethereal and a true escape. The sauna, too, is a heated oasis in the middle of urban buzz.

ROOMS The rooms are large and appear larger due to the creative use of mirrors, with paintings and etchings perched atop. Tones of tans and burnt orange warm the space. Mid-century Modern furniture brings a sense of humility and history. The bathrooms deserve a chapter themselves. White tile, soaking tubs and mirrors in places that will surprise you.

DINING

Lodging

Lotte Hotel

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Lotte Hotel’s facade of stained glass reflects the Seattle skyline. Rooms have warming color touches of burnt orange and Mid-century Modern furniture. The Charlotte Restaurant & Lounge on the sixteenth floor offers views of downtown Seattle, Elliott Bay and the Olympic Mountains. Le Spa de l’hôtel Lotte harmonizes body and mind.

written by Kevin Max FEW HOTELS CAN balance sophistication and luxury without the embarrassment of opulence, and it’s what Lotte Hotel does with elan. Perhaps it’s the Korean customs that pervade its service or that it picks up where an abandoned Philippe Starck-designed hotel project left off, or that the Mid-century Modern décor is both simple and elegant and carries the bittersweet feeling of a lost time remembered. Lotte Hotel (pronounced low-tay) stands apart from its ultra-luxury competitors in Seattle and beyond. Opened in September 2020, the doldrums of the pandemic, it is coming into its own in a city that doesn’t know whether its downtown is an asset or liability. 809 5TH AVE. SEATTLE www.lottehotel.com

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The Charlotte restaurant marries updated Pacific Northwest cuisine with sweeping views of downtown Seattle and Elliott Bay. Hama Hama oysters, Washington Wagyu beef and Oregon rabbit tortellini are a few items on a creative and local menu. Signature cocktails artfully paint over the science behind them. The Flagship, with honey, lime and egg white, is a fresh take on a bourbon sour. The Sakura Blossom brings gin, elderflower, grapefruit and more to a menu that is characterized by balanced Mediterranean and Asian ingredients.


trip planner

Coeur d’Alene and Coeur d’Alene Lake offer an escape to a carefree era of golf and retro style.

Vintage Coeur d’Alene Nostalgia in the time of a plague written by Mike Score

CZECH NOVELIST Milan Kundera parsed nostalgia this way. “The Greek word for ‘return’ is nostos. Algos means ‘suffering.’ So nostalgia is the suffering caused by an unappeased yearning to return.” That yearning to return to the past is evident in the institutions and culture of Coeur d’Alene, Idaho, where, at times, you may feel as if you’re on the set of a period movie scripted for the ’80s. You can see it at the harbors, in hairdos buttressed by padded shoulders in the lobby of The Coeur d’Alene Resort, on the golf courses and on the rim of every frothed cocktail whose name invokes sexual innuendo. No suffering to return needed here, just a well-planned weekend that will take you and your kids back to a time where your status was measured by whether you had cable TV, your lowest golf score and your high score on Ms. Pac-Man. You can take this trip with your partner and relive some of the mores of the ’80s or bring your kids to take them back to the thriving museum of that era.

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Dive into a world class vacation Play a floating golf green. Explore a massive theme park. Visit luxurious spas. Take a lake cruise. Shop the downtown. Relax in a park. Play in a casino. Eat like a king. Zipline. Ski. Boat. Hike. Fish. Dance. Visit.

coeurdalene.org


Idaho Tourism

trip planner

The Coeur d’Alene Resort Golf Course has beds of red geraniums, acres of junipers and alpine water challenges.

Day THRIFTING • GOLF • THINGS AFLOAT To put yourself on set in this ’80s movie, find lodging at either The Coeur d’Alene Resort or The Flaming Motel, the latter with pink doors, quarter-fed Magic Fingers vibrating beds and cable tv. Each has its own charm and throwback vibe. Golf has to play a recreational role on this trip. Greg Norman, Lee Trevino, Fuzzy Zoeller, Nancy Lopez and Betsy King were the top of leaderboards in the ’80s, and golf regularly dominated premium prime-time slots on network TV. Little has changed in golf or golf pro shops since then. The Coeur d’Alene golf course is open to the public and can be a forty-year flashback in culture and attire. Collared shirts and parted and feathered hair are back or never left. The fourteenth hole, a signature of the course, is a floating green in the waters of Lake Coeur d’Alene. Though this hole was first played in 1991, its spirit feels like a carryover from the ’80s golf heyday. After a round of golf, duck into The Cedars Floating Restaurant at The Coeur d’Alene Resort for decorous cocktails and prime rib or lobster. 80     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

JUNE | JULY 2021

If golf is more frustration than relaxation for you, step out downtown and dress the part. In Coeur d’Alene, thrift stores abound, and, thanks to subsequent generations, the styles of the ’80s are on full display. Perhaps no one captured the essence of ’80s fashion like Libba Bray, author of young adult novels, who said, “We have work to do if you are not to be a total failure like high-waisted, acid-wash jeans.” Everyone dressed as if they had never left middle school. Jeans weren’t tapered and had to be tucked and rolled like denim origami. Bandanas were worn on one wrist for no reason. Zippers went nowhere. Consumers bought shirts and pants that were already ripped through or perfectly fine yet plied with safety pins. On N 4th Street and nearby, you can thrift the day away at Good Samaritan Thrift, Lovely Chaos, Beau Monde Exchange, Paris Flea Market and others. Drop in on Christmas at the Lake any time of year.


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trip planner

Day PONTOONS • JET SKIS • THE ARCADE Lake living and water sports are also part of the ’80s identity. Arguably the Jet Ski brought back water sports from the brink of boredom. Though first invented and produced in the ’70s, the Jet Ski wasn’t a fixture for water motorsports enthusiasts until their mass production in the following decade. Soon Jet Skis spitting arcs of water behind them were buzzing around lakes with their derringdo drivers in neon trunks or bikinis. Parents cared less and moored on pontoon boats with lagers and wine coolers. Plan for an aqueous return to those days by renting a pontoon or Jet Ski from Fun Unlimited. This outfit out of Post Falls offers Jet Ski tours on Lake Coeur d’Alene and other nearby bodies of water. Grab lunch at Jimmy’s Down the Street, a diner favored by locals and a comfort menu reminiscent of the ’80s— chicken fried steak, burgers, grilled cheese, ice tea and milkshakes. The pinnacle of the flashback trip follows lunch. Take your dollar bills and quarters you haven’t spent on Magic Fingers to Blue Shell Game Bar on E Sherman Avenue. A dozen classic arcade games such as Ms. Pac-Man as well as sixteen beers and ciders are on tap at Blue Shell. The rings and dings of an arcade will bring back memories of competitive gaming and squandered quarters, when nothing was considered excessive.

Day SCENIC DRIVES • DOUGHNUTS Put on an ’80s chill station to start this day before heading out to Davis Donuts on 4th Street and reclaiming your youth with an apple fritter and other doughnuts made daily from scratch. Arguably, the ’80s were as transitional for American cars as they were for fashion. The classic American cars of the 1940s through the 1970s took on new shapes and materials. Ford Mustangs, Pontiac Firebirds and Chevy Camaros were the show ponies of the industry. The frumpy Ford Escort was the best selling of all. Cruising was abandoned in the ’60s, road trips in the ’70s and scenic drives rose to the level of being “totally awesome.” No matter what your vehicle, hop in and turn up playlists built around Tracy Chapman’s “Fast Car” or Prince’s “Little Red Corvette” and head to the Silver Valley for a 130-mile tour through Idaho’s small mining towns of Cataldo, Murray and Wallace. Many of these places will evoke the ’80s of the prior century. 82     1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

JUNE | JULY 2021


COEUR D’ALENE, IDAHO

trip planner

EAT The Cedars Floating Restaurant www.cedarsfloating restaurant.com Davis Donuts www.facebook.com/davisdonuts Jimmy’s Down the Street www.jimmysdownthestreet.com

STAY The Coeur d’Alene Resort www.cdaresort.com The Flamingo Motel www.flamingomotelidaho.com

PLAY The Blue Shell Game Bar www.theblueshellcda.com Coeur d’Alene Golf Course www.cdaresort.com/play/golf

Silver Valley Scenic Drive www.visitnorthidaho.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Some ways to play on Coeur d’Alene Lake range from wakeboarding to Jet Skiing. Hit the Blue Shell Game Bar for classic arcade games such as Ms. Pac-Man as well as sixteen beers and ciders on tap. Dine on seafood and steak at The Cedars Floating Restaurant, a breezy lake locale since 1965. Drive Lake Coeur d’Alene Scenic Byway for lakes, mountains and wildlife including eagles, moose, deer, elk and bear.

BLUE541

Idaho Tourism

The Blue Shell

Idaho Tourism

Fun Unlimited www.cdasports.com

JUNE | JULY 2021

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE      83


northwest destination

Finding Solitude in a Crowded Summer A Bend insider’s guide: Central Oregon fun and adventure off the beaten path written by Sharla Benito

Steve Heinrichs/Visit Central Oregon

IT’S NO SECRET that the secret about Central Oregon is out. Summer turns out the quickly growing number of thrill-seekers who live in the area plus miles-long columns of vehicles from elsewhere with kayaks, standup paddleboards, bikes and high expectations strapped to them. For the best results this summer, don’t yet abandon the value of isolation and jump in with the masses to packed parking lots and overly crowded trails. Ditch the masses. Adventure is in its most memorable form when achieved on your own.

Paddling the farther reaches of the Deschutes River.

84

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

Try trails, bodies of water and drinking holes that are less traveled, away from the beaten path. While others are sitting in traffic at Green Lakes Trail or South Sister, light out for equally stunning hikes of Paulina Peak or even Misery Ridge and Summit Loop at Smith Rock State Park. The parking lot isn’t crowded until 9 a.m., and once you get a mile from the base, people are scarce, especially on the challenging Misery Ridge. The Three Sisters Wilderness, too, has great hikes for all levels, and nearby Sisters has a lovely brewery for a congratulatory beer—Three Creeks Brewing. Runners can avoid the crowds with a morning run at Horse Butte, which has a gorgeous, but exposed 10-mile loop. If the snowpack has melted, Flagline, across from Mt. Bachelor, is another gorgeous gem, but only if you start early. If you get an early start, you won’t see many humans until you’re within a mile of your parking at Dutchman Flat. If you’re on bikes, gravel riding is the epitome of getting away. The Cascades Gravel Scenic Byway is a 31mile adventure with nearly half gravel starting at the Forest Service Station on Cascade Lakes Highway. Feeling a little more adventurous, drive out to Camp Sherman and

JUNE | JULY 2021


CENTRAL OREGON

Steve Heinrichs/Visit Central Oregon

northwest destination

EAT Bend Brewing Company, Bend www.bendbrewingco.com El Sancho Eastside, Bend www.elsanchobend.com Three Creeks Brewing, Sisters www.threecreeksbrewing.com Wild Ride Brew, Redmond www.wildridebrew.com

STAY Element, Bend www.marriott.com The Oxford, Bend www.oxfordhotelbend.com SCP Hotel, Redmond www.scphotel.com/redmond Wall Street Suites, Bend www.wallstreetsuitesbend.com

Steve Heinrichs/Visit Central Oregon

PLAY

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Escape to Paulina Peak and gaze out at East Lake. Chill at the SCP Hotel rooftop bar. At Smith Rock State Park, people are scarce once you’re a mile from the base, especially on the challenging Misery Ridge.

begin a 52-miler with a 4,000-foot vertical gain while taking in the pristine Metolius River and the peaks of the Cascades. Stop at the Camp Sherman store for all of your refreshments. Likewise, if you’re interested in paddling in peace, Central Oregon has countless options. East Lake at Newberry National Volcanic Monument is one such place. Stunningly beautiful, East Lake doesn’t get the same attention as its aqueous brethren because it’s not as convenient as paddling the Deschutes River. Yet that’s precisely why East Lake makes for a better adventure. Cultus Lake in the Cascade Lakes region is another gem that doesn’t field the crowds that Sparks Lake or Elk Lake do. Cultus Lake Resort is an old-fashioned mountain

getaway with a small marina, cabins, a general store and a restaurant with barbecue, beer and wine. When the outdoors has restored your corporal indoors, where do you eat and drink away from the scene of newly minted Central Oregonians? In Redmond, find the restaurant and rooftop bar at the new SCP Hotel for small plates and cocktails. In Sisters, Three Creeks Brewing is always a good choice. The craft beer and pub menu won’t leave you wanting. In Bend, try the east side El Sancho for margaritas and tacos, Bend Brewing Company for its expansive lawn and gold-standard craft beer, and takeout from any downtown restaurant to take down to Drake Park along the placid Mirror Pond section of the Deschutes River. JUNE | JULY 2021

Cultus Lake www.fs.usda.gov East Lake www.fs.usda.gov Flagline www.bendtrails.org/trail/ flagline-access Horse Butte www.bendtrails.org/trail/ horse-butte Misery Ridge at Smith Rock www.stateparks.oregon.gov Paulina Peak www.fs.usda.gov Three Sisters Wilderness www.fs.usda.gov

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE      85


1889 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1889.

Friday Harbor

Newport

Marysville Everett Chelan

Seattle Bellevue

Port Orchard

Shelton

Tacoma

Colville Okanogan

Whidbey Island

Olympic National Park

Republic

Winthrop

Coupeville

Port Townsend

Aberdeen

North Cascades National Park

Mount Vernon

Port Angeles Forks

Oroville

Bellingham

San Juan Islands

Leavenworth

Renton Kent Federal Way

Wilbur

Waterville

Spokane Davenport

Wenatchee Ephrata Ritzville

Montesano Olympia

Mount Rainier N.P.

Ellensburg Colfax

Chehalis

South Bend

Pullman Yakima Pomeroy

Long Beach Kelso

Cathlamet

Longview

Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument

Richland

Mount Adams

Prosser

Pasco

Dayton

Walla Kennewick Walla

Goldendale Vancouver

86

Stevenson

Live

Think

Explore

20 Growlerz Seattle

42 Nori

72

Poulsbo Maritime Museum

22 Simple Goodness Sisters

44 Talking Cedar

74

Mount Spokane

23 Finistére

45 Whitman College

76

Lotte Hotel

23 Grosgrain Vineyards

46 Martyr Sauce

78

The Coeur d’Alene Resort

24 Workin’ Dream Farm

48 Center for an Informed Public

78

Beau Monde Exchange

1889 WASHINGTON’S MAGAZINE

JUNE | JULY 2021

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Continue for Special Insert


DESTINATION

GOLF NORTHWEST


FROM THE GREEN

THE RETURN OF

GENEROSITY TO GOLF

2  DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST  2021


FROM THE GREEN

BACK IN THE SWING, WITH RENEWED APPRECIATION WRITTEN BY MICHAEL PAYNE

B

Y THE TIME of publication of this article, many golfing fours will have been vaccinated, no matter what age. Solo golfing can go back into solitary confinement and stay there. The mass rollout of vaccines since January has created momentum for socializing, restaurant-going and for foursomes to come together for a long day of golf. It doesn’t seem that long ago that resort restaurants welcomed guests. That happy hour was indeed happy at the end of a round of golf, with longtime staffers working full time and earning a living. During Covid, many golfers never stopped playing but for the weather. Golf is not a contact sport and conforms as easily to social distancing as it does to socializing. Within the sport, however, it was the restaurants and bars and their chefs, waitstaff and bartenders, whose service and camaraderie make these the favorites of locals and visitors, that were the hardest hit during the past year. It is the return to these places that we highlight in the ensuing article. Acknowledge how hard the past year has been for those serving you and, this year, show your appreciation with generosity.

AT LEFT Kalispel Golf and Country Club is Spokane’s oldest and inspired by its natural surroundings. (photo: Kalispel Golf and Country Club)

Cover: Running Y Ranch Resort (photo: Running Y Ranch Resort)

2021  DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST  3


FROM THE GREEN

FROM TOP The Golf Course at Wildhorse Resort & Casino, perfect for many skill levels. Reward yourself with a clubhouse sandwich and Oregon huckleberry margarita. (photos: Wildhorse Resort & Casino)

WILDHORSE RESORT AND GOLF CLUB You’ve just come off eighteen holes at the Wildhorse resort course, one of Golf Digest’s top casino courses, and off in the distance to the east are the comely Blue Mountains. Nearby is the reward for drives that held straight, shots that went un-duffed and putts predictably sunk. The Wildhorse Clubhouse Bar & Grill is the reward. Unwind with an Oregon huckleberry jalapeño margarita or the “mother of pearl,” the official cocktail of the Masters. Start with a Wildhorse cobb, adorned in slow-roasted pork, crispy fried avocado, egg, shredded cheddar, more veggies and ranch dressing. Because this is Pendleton, someone in the group should cowboy up with the cowboy burger, a stack of beef, bacon, an onion ring, cheese and a smothering barbecue sauce.

4  DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST  2021


Running Y Ranch Resort rolls out 300 days of sunshine for play in Southern Oregon.

FROM THE GREEN

(photo: Running Y Ranch Resort)

At Kalispel’s 1898 Public House, savor adventure off the course with offerings such as the Moroccan steak sandwich. (photo: Kalispel Golf and Country Club)

KALISPEL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB Start with the things you can’t get at home at Kalispel’s 1898 Public House, named for the year the golf club was established. Korean beef sliders and calamari fries go well with a Woodinville smoked Manhattan or a lemon Huck Finn, sweetened by huckleberry puree, even a basil Martini would fit right in. Take your next shot from the roughage of a pear and arugula salad before settling into the “honey stung fried chicken” (honey-cayenne glazed chicken) or the cedar plank salmon Oscar, served with Pacific Northwest crab, asparagus, dill sauce and jasmine rice. The menu is deep and, in places, well traveled. The Moroccan steak sandwich, for one, is sirloin grilled in Moroccan spices, topped with onions, Boursin, balsamic and a lemon garlic aioli.

RUNNING Y RESORT After a day of slaying the greens, ask about the local greens from the resort’s greenhouse. Tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, rosemary and basil to name a few. The mixed green salad would be a good way to take in the local produce. Naturally, you’ll need another course after a day on the course. Bison meatballs in a mushroom brandy cream sauce make for a great place to start. The Italian sausage-and-pepper penne with garlic, rosemary, Parmesan and goat cheese is another fairway to play. Or build your meal backwards from an Oregon pinot noir or the side dish of saffron risotto. Any of these should play well.

2021  DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST  5


FROM THE GREEN

TETHEROW RESORT After you’ve come in from the recreated Scottish countryside of rolling blonde reeds and bunkers and muted greens beneath blue skies, you’ll find a local version of a Scottish ale on tap and views that could be from Gleneagles but are from Tetherow’s pub, The Row. Transport yourself to central Scotland at Central Oregon’s Tetherow, whose course is designed by Scotsman David McLay Kidd, also known for his courses at Bandon Dunes. The Row is a casual pub where Scotch eggs and fish and chips as well as a kale and quinoa salad are on the menu. The provenance of Bend’s craft breweries are on rotating taps, but if you must stray from this list, the ruby basil martini is worth the diversion.

Tetherow (photo: Jonathan Kingston/ Tetherow)

SALISHAN RESORT Oregon golf legend Peter Jacobsen had his hands on the 2004 makeover of the Salishan course on the Oregon Coast, but not the menu at Attic Bar & Lounge. Recount the best and worst of your play with signature cocktails such as the western meadows, a citrus vodka-based drink, or a Salishan sour, a shaken bourbon, lemon, pinot noir and orange bitters concoction. Stay close to the ocean with seafood green curry (clams, halibut, green curry and brown rice) and seared halibut with basil pesto, brown rice and a citrus salad with lemon herb dressing. AT LEFT Two words describe the play and stay at Salishan Coastal Lodge: legendary and luxurious. BELOW A Salishan sour leaves you stirred, not shaken. (photos: Salishan Coastal Lodge)

When we are all back together, let kindness reign and remember that those whose serve in your chosen golf club have had a tougher year than many of its members. Appreciation of their struggle during the past year through generous tips will help them going forward and show that you care.

6

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2021


PLAY REST REPEAT! “One of America’s top casino golf courses.” - Golf Digest

VEGAS-STYLE GAMING Over 1,200 slots with all the latest reels and your favorite table games.

FINE DINING Six restaurants on-site with a delicious array of food choices.

7

STAY & PLAY from $20

Enjoy spacious rooms and suites with scenic views of the beautiful Blue Mountains and two challenging golf courses to choose from.

To see COVID-19 safety protocols visit wildhorseresort.com CASINO • HOTEL • GOLF • RV • DINING • FUNPLEX 800.654.9453 • Pendleton, OR I-84 Exit 216 • wildhorseresort.com F Owned and operated by the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Indian Reservation. 03499.TT.03.21


WHERE TO PLAY

MORE PLACES TO PLAY

OREGON ALPINE MEADOWS www.golfalpinemeadows.com Enterprise, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,072 $20-$47

CHEHALEM GLENN www.chehalemglenn.com Newberg, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,062 $29-$40

GLAZE MEADOW AT BLACK BUTTE RANCH www.blackbutteranch.com/golf Sisters, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,007 $47-$82 8

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2021

INDIAN CREEK GOLF COURSE www.indiancreekgolf.com Hood River, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,261 $35-$59

OAK KNOLL GOLF COURSE www.oakknollgolf.org Ashland, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,047 $20-$24

OLD MACDONALD www.bandondunesgolf.com Bandon, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,944 $50-$335

RUNNING Y RANCH RESORT www.runningy.com Klamath Falls, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,138 $55-$95

SALISHAN GOLF LINKS www.salishan.com Gleneden Beach, Oregon Length from back tees: 6,470 $39-$99

SILVIES VALLEY RANCH www.silvies.us Seneca, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,170 $75-$175

Chehalem Glenn (photo: Chehalem Glenn)

TETHEROW www.tetherow.com Bend, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,293 $50-$190

*Note: Course lengths are given in yards


Ace your next golf getaway.

Shop our curated collection of cool local goods from around the Pacific Northwest www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop

Our Stay & Play Golf Package tees you up for a luxury stay at Northern Quest Resort & Casino, plus a round of golf on the historic fairways of Kalispel Golf and Country Club. Ranked 30th among the nation’s top 50 casino courses by Golfweek magazine, Spokane’s oldest and most celebrated golf course is part nature hike, part history lesson and part, well, the game you love.

Stay & Play, from just $209* Package includes: One-night stay at Northern Quest, one round of golf, access to Kalispel Golf and Country Club members-only facilities, golf shop discounts, and more. *Based on double occupancy.

Learn more at northernquest.com/nqgolf


WHERE TO PLAY

WASHINGTON APPLE TREE RESORT www.appletreeresort.com Yakima, Washington Length from back tees: 6,961 $52-$79 Salish Cliffs Golf Club (photo: Brian Oar/ Salish Cliffs Golf Club)

STAY & PLAY CASINOS KALISPEL GOLF AND COUNTRY CLUB NORTHERN QUEST RESORT & CASINO www.kalispelgolf.com Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,663 Packages start at $149 (overnight plus one round of golf for two)

BEAR MOUNTAIN RANCH www.bearmtgolf.com Chelan, Washington Length from back tees: 7,231 $50-$100

GAMBLE SANDS www.gamblesands.com Brewster, Washington Length from back tees: 7,169 $60-$95

THE GOLF CLUB AT NEWCASTLE

PALOUSE RIDGE GOLF CLUB

www.newcastlegolf.com Newcastle, Washington (Bellevue) Length from back tees: 7,024 $80-$165

www.palouseridge.com Pullman, Washington Length from back tees: 7,308 $61-$109

PROSPECTOR GOLF COURSE AT SUNCADIA

THE HOME COURSE

www.destinationhotels.com/ suncadia-resort Cle Elum, Washington Length from back tees: 7,100 $64-$139

www.thehomecourse.com DuPont, Washington Length from back tees: 7,424 $24-$49

INDIAN CANYON GOLF COURSE

WINE VALLEY GOLF CLUB

www.my.spokanecity.org/ golf/indian-canyon Spokane, Washington Length from back tees: 6,255 $20-$49

www.winevalleygolfclub.com Walla Walla, Washington Length from back tees: 7,600 $80-$155

SALISH CLIFFS GOLF CLUB LITTLE CREEK CASINO RESORT www.little-creek.com Shelton, Washington Length from back tees: 7,269 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $63-$109

SWINOMISH GOLF LINKS SWINOMISH CASINO & LODGE www.swinomishcasinoandlodge.com Anacortes, Washington Length from back tees: 6,177 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $21-$38

Palouse Ridge Golf Club (photo: Rob Perry)

WILDHORSE RESORT GOLF COURSE WILDHORSE RESORT & CASINO www.wildhorseresort.com/ resort/golf Pendleton, Oregon Length from back tees: 7,112 Stay & Play prices vary; golf only $45-$55

10

DESTINATION GOLF NORTHWEST 2021

IDAHO COEUR D’ALENE RESORT GOLF COURSE www.cdaresort.com/play/golf Coeur d’Alene, Idaho Length from back tees: 7,189 $79-$99

PRIEST LAKE GOLF COURSE www.plgolfcourse.com Priest Lake, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,200 $22-$56

TRAIL CREEK GOLF COURSE www.sunvalley.com Sun Valley, Idaho Length from back tees: 6,968 $85-$179 *Note: Course lengths are given in yards


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RECONNEC T

W I T H FA M I LY A N D F R I E N D S TO EXPLORE, TO ADVENTURE, OR JUST REL AX.

SUMMER IS CALLING AND THE COAST IS CLEAR Aerial Park | Beachcombing | Golfing | Hiking | Mountain Biking | Kayaking | SUPing | Spa

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1889 Washington's Magazine + Special Insert: Destination Golf Northwest | June/July 2021  

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