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Oregon’s Magazine

ON E CO MPA N Y T WO ICO N IC B R A N DS

November | December 2019 THE FOODIE ISSUE | HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE

Having served Oregon and Southwest Washington with integrity and automotive quality since 1950, Don Rasmussen Company is pleased to announce that Jaguar Land Rover Portland is moving. We look forward to serving you and future generations from our new, state-of-the-art facility at Washington Square.

OPENI NG L ATE DECE MBE R

1 0 1 2 5 SW WAS H I NGTON SQUA RE RD HWY 217, AT GRE E N BU R G R D E XIT

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Mocha Irish Coffee with Salty Honey Whipped Cream

Foodie Issue Y NE W

E AR’S

ER DINN S PIC K

The

C OM FO R T FOO DS FOR EVERY CR AVING

I

OREGNABLE SE A F O N OOD

OUR BUY-LOCAL

HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE 1859magazine.com

jaguarportland.com

Top Trail Running

SUST A

To experience the world-class lineup of Jaguar and Land Rover automobiles and SUVs now, visit our current location on NE Grand Avenue, and watch for our move in late December.

JAGUAR LAND ROVER PORTLAND 720 NE GRAND AVENUE 503.230.7700

Kitchen Remodels

TRIP PLANNER: THE DALLES PG. 94

1859oregonmagazine.com $5.95 display until December 31, 2019

LIVE

THINK

EXPLORE

OREGON

November | December

volume 60


MEET CHUCK AND HIS SON STONE, FOUNDERS OF THE M A N Y D A N C E S FA M I LY F U N D T H AT S U P P O R T S N AT I V E A M E R I C A N C U LT U R E A N D E D U C AT I O N .

One family. One single, generous family just like yours, can make an impact. And when generous families, just like yours, join together, they can make an exponential impact. We help make this happen. See how other families have partnered with Oregon Community Foundation to plan and amplify their giving impact across the state of Oregon at oregoncf.org/YOU.

THE MANY DANCES FUND IS ONE OF 138 OCF CHARITABLE FUNDS IN EASTERN OREGON ALONE.

O R E G O N C F.O R G / Y O U


Hidden Treasure photography by Emily Joan Greene Portland’s Erizo takes fresh food to a whole new level, with chef-owners Jacob Harth and Nick Van Eck foraging for menu items on the Oregon Coast, then crafting whimsical 20-course meals from their finds. Featuring bounty from seaweed to sea snails, these plates are sure to be unlike anything you’ve ever eaten before. Learn more about the chefs’ mission and process in our gallery. (pg. 78)


Seaweed gathered during a foraging trip to Tillamook Bay. AT LEFT Jacob Harth and Nick Van Eck search for items they can use on their menu at Erizo.

Golden Kelp

Sea Lettuce

Eel Grass

Purple Laver

Winged Kelp

Rock Weed


FEATURES

Pine State Biscuits in Portland is a perfect stop for comfort food like biscuits and gravy.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019 • volume 60

72 Get Your Fix The days of swimsuits and heat waves are long gone. Celebrate the best way we know how— with comfort food. Plus, try one of our ten picks for a fancy New Year’s Eve dinner. written by Kevin Max & Sheila G. Miller

57 1859’s Holiday Gift Guide Every year, Statehood Media editors search for Oregon’s best homemade products. We’ve got the best local gifts for everyone on your list. photography by Whitney Whitehouse

78 A lot of work goes into sourcing for a sustainable seafood restaurant. Erizo chefs Jacob Harth and Nick Van Eck take you behind the scenes. photography by Emily Joan Greene 4          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

Trask Bedortha

Sea to Table


MENS • WOMENS • KIDS • CLOTHING • SHOES • GIFTS

MENS WOMENS KIDS BABY CLOTHING SHOES TEXTILES GIFTS


DEPARTMENTS

LIVE 14 NOTEBOOK

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019 • volume 60

Get out and celebrate the season at holiday events, then curl up with a suspenseful book and a song about your home state.

20 FOOD + DRINK

We’ve got a perfect winter cocktail, top spots for coffee around the state and the right place to hone your cooking skills.

24 FARM TO TABLE

Skip the frozen turkey this year in favor of a game bird—you can even bag your own with Klamath Falls’ ROE Outfitters. Then learn to cook your bird like a pro.

30 HOME + DESIGN

An architect and an interior designer remodeled their troublesome kitchens to make them the centerpiece of their homes.

Daniel Hurst

36 MIND + BODY

50

Beer and running aren’t necessarily a perfect match, but for Bend’s Allison Morgan, who recently became a world champ beer miler, it’s working out pretty well.

38 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Ruth Shively’s portraiture of Russian models is serious(ly beautiful).

THINK 44 STARTUP

Ginew seeks to increase the visibility of Native-Americans, and it does so through beautiful, meticulously made clothing.

48 WHAT’S GOING UP

The Oregon Convention Center got a big facelift designed to ensure all conference attendees know exactly what town they’re in.

50 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

The Briggitine Monks in Amity make holidays merry with their truffles and fudge.

52 MY WORKSPACE

100

38 10 11 102 104

Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time

Ruth Shively

You know Dehen 1920 from the label on your letterman jacket, but the old Portland standby makes much more.

54 GAME CHANGER

The owners of South Bay Wild in Astoria seek to make fishing truly sustainable for generations to come.

EXPLORE 86 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Flying Bee Ranch has a Honey Tasting Room where you can sample to your sweet tooth’s delight.

88 ADVENTURE

Some of Oregon’s best runners give us a taste of their favorite runs around the state.

92 LODGING

Abbey Road Farm combines hospitality and farm life in Oregon wine country.

94 TRIP PLANNER

The Dalles has upped its cool factor, and it’s ready for its closeup.

COVER

photo by Carly Diaz G-Love in Portland (see Dining, pg. 23)

6          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

100 NORTHWEST DESTINATION

McCall, Idaho’s winter wonderland is sometimes overlooked by its summer devotees.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019


WHAT DOES IT TAKE TO

Bright and talented individuals like Dr. Kristina Young. She and her team of undeterred researchers at Providence Cancer Institute are giving it their all through clinical trials and progressive, new treatments like immunotherapy.

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CONTRIBUTORS

CHARLES BUTLER Writer Adventure

TOBY NOLAN Photographer Farm to Table

BEAU EASTES Writer What I’m Working On

EMILY JOAN GREENE Photographer Sea to Table

If you’re a runner, it’s easy to get into a rut. You get your 3 to 4 miles in, then wait until tomorrow (or the day after) for the next set. But running in Oregon should never be routine. I interviewed four exceptional runners, including Olympian Nick Symmonds, who have seen this state from all angles—from atop mountains to beside rivers. They put me onto runs that are invigorating and inspiring. (pg. 88)

Having spent fifteen years as an outdoor adventure guide and two decades with a camera in my hand, it took no effort to persuade me to travel to Southern Oregon and spend a day photographing Jen and Darren Roe of Real Oregon Experiences. As I followed them and their dogs up the hills surrounding Klamath Lake and along the shores of the lake, it was immediately apparent that this is a couple doing what they love, sharing their passions with others and not regretting a moment of it. (pg. 24)

Last Christmas, my wife and I received a box of delicious fudge that came in a gorgeous, almost regal box. Upon investigation, I realized not only were these heavenly treats made in Oregon, but they were handcrafted by a small group of monks who lived just outside of Amity. Oh, and they also make truffles. (pg. 50)

I grew up in Southern Oregon, but now living in Portland I seem to always connect with others from my hometown. One special surprise was reconnecting with my high school Spanish partner, Jacob Harth. With the bulk of my work centering on food and Jacob a chef, it was only a matter of time before we crossed paths again. When I heard he was opening his own sustainable seafood restaurant, I knew I wanted to document his process. (pg. 78)

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NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019


EDITOR Kevin Max

MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER

OFFICE MANAGER

Cindy Miskowiec

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES

HOME GROWN CHEF

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST

Aaron Opsahl

Cindy Guthrie Jenn Redd Thor Erickson Jeremy Storton

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Tracy Beard, Charlie Butler, Melissa Dalton, Beau Eastes, Jesslyn Gillespie, Joni Kabana, Sophia McDonald, Peter Madsen, Ben Salmon, Jen Stevenson, Matthew Wastradowski, Mackenzie Wilson

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Carly Diaz, Charlotte Dupont, Emily Joan Greene, Joni Kabana, Joe Kline, Toby Nolan, Gwen Shoemaker, Daniel Stark, Whitney Whitehouse

Mail

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      9


HAPPY HOLIDAYS to all! This year, we are highlighting quality and local. Buy things that are well-mended, not hotly trended. The 1859 Holiday Gift Guide can accommodate just about everyone on your gift-giving list. We’ve culled locally made products from across Oregon and divided the world into seven sections, such as the Bookworm, the Explorer and the Entertainer. Make it your plan to shop for quality and to shop local and you will give the earth the gift of sustainability in the process. (pg. 57) One cool startup that could also fit into your holiday shopping plans is Ginew, a high-end creator of Native American-designed clothing from a husband-and-wife team of doctors (Startup, pg. 44). Jackets, vests, denim and Tshirts are just a few items in this Filson-meetsIndigenous apparel. “When I look at our collection, I think it is very Indigenous and not just because of what it looks like, but the values we instill in each garment …” said Dr. Eric Brodt, Ginew co-founder. Likewise Dehen 1920, the nearly 100-yearold clothing manufacturer in Portland, has been making the highest quality garments— motorcycle sweaters to old school military and athletic apparel—from its vintage-era production facility in the Laurelhurst area. (My Workspace, pg. 52) This year, don’t just go out and get any store-bought, massfarmed turkey. Go all in and bag your own holiday fowl or upland bird with ROE Outfitters in Klamath Falls (Farm to Table, pg. 24). We also present two tantalizing alternatives from some of Oregon’s top chefs. Try pancetta- and mushroom-stuffed quail from Estes Restaurant, or a balsamic- and honey-glazed duck breast from Mucca Osteria. Holidays are a time to spend with family, until they overstay. When, in all of your holiday revelry, your family becomes a bit too familiar, take off for McCall, Idaho, and winter hot springs and skiing as we did for our Northwest Destination on pg. 100. Its destination winterfest, McCall Winter Carnival, lasts January 24-February 2 if you can hold out until the new year.

10          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

Jenn Redd

FROM THE EDITOR

Finally, tenacity is running a mile in 6:24. Ferocity is running a 6:24 mile while drinking a beer every quarter mile. Bendite Alison Grace Morgan became the official Beer Mile World Champion in Berlin in August after running four quarter-mile laps and upending a beer after each. Yes, it’s a thing, and victory can only be described as intoxicating. All of this while she is making her last attempt to qualify for the 2020 Olympic marathon trials. See Mind + Body on pg. 36. For my part, I’m happy kicking down the stretch with a mocha Irish coffee topped with salty honey whipped cream, with this Cocktail Card (pg. 20) from State Honey Curators in Redmond. You can double the recipe for the whipped cream and have more holiday fun.


1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon

have a photo that shows off your oregon experience? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll win 1859 gear and a chance to be published here. www.1859oregonmagazine. com/postcard photo by Julie Zacharias Riding with a friend on private property on the Zumwalt Prairie in Eastern Oregon. The sky out there never ceases to be amazing, and the vistas are endless.

GIFT GUIDE GIVEAWAY Want to win items from this issue’s Holiday Gift Guide? Keep an eye on our social media feeds for instructions on how to enter.

GEAR UP Show off your state pride with 1859 T-shirts, hoodies, tote bags and more from our online shop. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      11


NOTEBOOK 14 FOOD + DRINK 20 FARM TO TABLE 24 HOME + DESIGN 30 MIND + BODY 36

pg. 24 Bag your own game bird this year with help from guides like ROE Outfitters.

Toby Nolan

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 38


Join us in Willamette Valley wine and truffle country for two unforgettable weekends filled with culinary adventures!

Oregon Truffle Festival Eugene Weekend January 24 – 26, 2020

Yamhill Valley Weekend February 14 – 16, 2020

Book weekend packages and à la carte events: oregontrufflefestival.org

100 mile bakery | camas country mill | eugene cascades and coast | graduate eugene | new world truffieres | ninkasi brewing co. | oakway catering oregon culinary institute | oregon wine press | silvan ridge winery | springfield creamery | travel oregon | willamette valley visitors association

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notebook

Tidbits + To-dos Mt. Angel doesn’t stop being fun when Oktoberfest ends. Join the community for this German Holiday Market and celebration of all things hazelnut (Filbert? True Oregonians can fight about it), December 6 to 8. More than 600 hazelnut growers are located in the Willamette Valley. Get ready for local wine and beer, cookies and other foods featuring the famous nut. www.mtangelchamber.org

our rk y ar a m nd

cal

e

Clare Barboza

Mt. Angel-Silverton Hazelnut Festival

ACME ice cream Yes, it’s winter. But if you can warm up by the fire, you can cool down with a frozen treat. This ice cream was born in Washington but is now available in Oregon, and that’s a very good thing. Simple flavors—strawberry, espresso, dark chocolate—belie the flavorful, air-free ice cream that’s going on here. www.acmeicecream.com

Michael Henley

camark le you nd r ar A Pittock Mansion Christmas Each year, dozens of volunteers transform this historic home to celebrate the holiday season with a theme—this year it’s Wonderful World of Books. Christmas trees and eraspecific decorations abound in the tour, which takes visitors through the house, built in 1914 for The Oregonian’s publisher and lovingly restored to its former glory. www.pittockmansion.org

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2019


BroteinBox The holidays can be a hard time to stick to your diet. BroteinBox, a Bend-based company with your diet in mind, sends healthy protein-packed snacks to your home or office every month. Subscriptions start at $36 a month.

Coos Bay-North Bend Visitors and Convention Bureau

www.broteinbox.com

Cognitive Surplus

Holiday Lights at Shore Acres State Park

At Cognitive Surplus, based in Portland, science meets design and we all win. Pick a discipline (Astronomy? Geology? Math?) and then select from smart T-shirts, notepads, coffee mugs … all kinds of gifts for thinkers. We’re partial to the Heroes of Science pint glasses, but there’s truly something for everyone here.

This is the thirty-third year that Shore Acres State Park has lit up with a quarter million twinkling lights to celebrate the holidays. The park, which features a historic home perched on a cliff above the Pacific Ocean, has a 7-acre botanical garden with a lily pond. Each year, it transforms into holiday central. Check it out from Thanksgiving Day until December 31, from 4 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. every night.

www.cognitive-surplus.com

www.oregonsadventurecoast.com

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

ur r yo a k d ar n m le

ca

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      15


notebook

Musician

On the Road

A singer-songwriter takes to the highway to learn more about himself, and his country

Courtney Bruguier

written by Ben Salmon

Travis Ehrenstrom is traveling around the country, writing songs about each state.

write a song for each of the fifty United States, and WHEN A GUY quits a good job, abandons a promMORE ONLINE a book, too. ising career, sells his house and leaves his home reFollow Travis Ehrenstrom’s journey On the road, Ehrenstrom is writing almost evgion to travel across the country and write songs, at www.patreon.com/ ery day, recording songs in the couple’s 24-foot RV chances are he’s got some big stuff brewing inside ourcreativestates and trying to release a state song per month. Every his heart and his mind. Tuesday, he’s recording and releasing a live, one-take video of Most folks don’t make those kinds of changes on a lark. Travis Ehrenstrom certainly didn’t. The Bend-based singer- a performance somewhere along the way. In September, for songwriter is about six months into a cross-country road trip example, he played a gorgeous version of Jackson Browne’s with his wife, Courtney Bruguier, their two dogs and their cat, “Our Lady of the Well” in southern Utah, though most of and who knows where they’ll end up. But why they started out the Tuesday songs are Ehrenstrom’s own original tunes, which are invariably warm, ultra-melodic takes on folk-rock is no mystery. “I turned 30 this year and was working in what most would and Americana. “There’s a certain connectedness with these songs that feels call a stable career but feeling dreadfully unfulfilled. I was playing dead-end gigs in Bend and knew that if I wanted to push very special and intimate to me,” he said. “When I play them, for a career in music, it had to be somewhere else,” Ehrenstrom I’m immediately transported back to the time and place where said. “At the same time, I was becoming all-consumed with the they were written.” Ehrenstrom and Bruguier don’t have a route planned, or a national news and feeling more and more confused every day by the state of humanity. I was feeling pretty disillusioned and timeline beyond the fact that they think it’ll take about eighthought I could best comprehend what’s going on in the U.S. teen months to complete their journey. They don’t necessarily by hitting the road and translating my experiences into song.” have an endpoint in mind, either, and that’s OK. For EhrenA cross-country road trip was actually Bruguier’s idea, but strom, this trip—like most trips—is not about the finish line, Ehrenstrom took inspiration from artists such as John Stein- but the experiences along the way and the art that comes out beck and Woody Guthrie, who both documented and spoke to of it. “If at the end of this I’ve created a body of work that resonates the American experience through their work. “By the time we left Oregon, I had a sense for what I was try- with folks and helps heal an unspoken divide or bring joy,” he ing to accomplish,” he said. One of his more tangible goals: to said, “I’d say that’s a pretty great thing to hang a hat on.” 16          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER

2019


Holidays on Ice

On view beginning October 12, 2019

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notebook

April Henry’s latest YA novel takes on mass shootings.

Bibliophile

Siege Mentality

April Henry on escaping zip ties and secret mall corridors interview by Sheila G. Miller

APRIL HENRY, WHOSE new young adult novel Run, Hide, Fight Back came out in August, is an interesting woman. A jiu jitsu enthusiast who grew up in Medford, she’s written twenty-four books and as a 12-yearold sent Roald Dahl a short story she’d written (he wrote back). Henry also likes to research—a lot. For a book she wrote that will appear in 2020, she took a weekend-long class that taught her to pick locks, escape zip ties, and get away from kidnappers. The class culminated in getting “kidnapped” and having to escape through the streets of Los Angeles, climbing barbed-wire fences and getting back to a safe house. She succeeded. In 2021, Henry will publish a book based on the Eagle Creek Fire, focusing on the people who had to hike out from the Punchbowl Falls trail. Here, we talk about Run, Hide, Fight Back, which follows a group of teens trying to survive when domestic terrorists take over a Portland mall. 18          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER

2019

The book features some very serious subject matter. How did you settle on the idea? I like books that appeal to all kinds of readers. In YA land, you hear this term “reluctant reader.” There’s no such thing for adults—if you don’t like to read, you don’t read, but there is some requirement that you read in school. I realized I was appealing to “reluctant readers”—I like a highenergy story that you are like, ‘I have got to turn the page and see what happened.’ I’m always looking at stories that have that kind of element to them. I was reading about the Westgate Mall siege in Kenya in 2013 and I wondered what would happen here. … And in the time since I wrote that book, there have been more and more shootings, and you really do have to think about what you would do in a bad situation like that. I was bracing a bit for pushback. The book got delayed—it was supposed to come out in May 2018, right after Parkland happened. I wondered if it would ever see the light of day—unless something drastically changes, there’s not ever going to be a good time to publish.

this book I knew I wanted to do something with terrorists—kind of like the Kenyan mall shootings—so I watched a documentary on that, and I was like ‘How can I make it so that it goes on for a long time?’ I talked to a paramedic-firefighter in Washington state about tabletop exercises, where you gather around the table and talk about what you’d do in different situations. They were doing one with first responders about a shooting in a shopping mall. And one of the questions was, what if it was boobytrapped so people couldn’t go in? He said they stared at him and were all mad at him because they couldn’t think of what to do. So I talked to some cops, I took an active shooter class, I watched a bunch of videos on what to do. I also took some stuff from my dad, who was a Jackson County commissioner in the late ’70s and early ’80s. He was targeted by the Posse Comitatus, and they were giving him death threats. I took some from that, some from The Order, some from Timothy McVeigh and his writings about blowing up the Alfred P. Murrah Federal Building.

Tell me more about your research process. It sounds intense. I think if you do it then it helps you think or see things in ways you wouldn’t if you were just imagining. I hate it when I read something and think, ‘That’s not how it works. That’s not the word they use.’ I wanted the people who know it to know I had done my research. Then a lot of the time, there are aspects you never would have thought of. When I started

What’s the goal of Run, Hide, Fight Back? There are messages in there about tolerance and stuff like, do you know where your exits are? And about the importance of banding together, but mostly I want someone to say, ‘That was fun, I had fun reading that book.’ My favorite emails are from middle or high school kids who say, ‘I don’t like to read but I liked your book.’ You do like to read, you just need to find the right book.


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This year the youngest great-grandchildren of founder Aaron Jones—Jake (6), Ava (5), and Parker (8)—helped plant Senecaʼs 40 millionth tree. If these 40 million seedlings were laid end to end, they would cross the U.S. 5 ½ times. Seneca is cultivating a legacy of innovation, sustainable forestry, and renewable building materials for the communities of today—and tomorrow.


food + drink

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of State Honey Curators

Mocha Irish Coffee

with Salty Honey Whipped Cream 1 ounce chocolate-honey syrup 1 ounce Irish Whiskey 4 ounces coffee Dollop of salty honey whipped cream Pour chocolate-honey syrup and whiskey into a glass or mug and stir thoroughly. Add coffee and stir again. Top with a big dollop of honey whipped cream. Garnish with bay leaf.

FOR CHOCOLATE-HONEY SYRUP 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder 3 tablespoons La Tovara Mangrove Honey 2 tablespoons boiling water Mix cocoa powder with boiling water. Stir until dissolved. Add honey and stir until smooth.

FOR SALTY HONEY WHIPPED CREAM 1 cup heavy whipping cream ¼ cup La Tovara Mangrove Honey 1 tablespoon vanilla Whip cream in a chilled bowl until cream starts to thicken. Add honey and continue to mix until fluffy peaks form. Add vanilla and mix.

20          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

Beerlandia

The Bitter Truth written by Jeremy Storton | illustrated by Allison Bye THE BEER INDUSTRY has misled us for decades. The hop arms race of the 2000s taught us “hoppy” means bitterness, summed up with a single number. In practically every beer, bitterness is quantified in IBUs (International Bitterness Units), or BUs in brewer-speak. At 40 BUs, our beer becomes increasingly bitter. Intimidated, we assume 80 BUs will melt our faces and at 100, our palates will shut down our senses in mutiny. What we beer lovers must realize is the whole BU thing is utter BS. In reality, “hoppy” refers to bitterness as well as the flavor and aroma of hops. IBUs attempt to simplify this very complex flavor. Most breweries rely on a dubious mathematical formula to assign IBUs to a beer. This formula is a remnant of the 1950s, a time when pale lagers were king and a beer with 30 IBUs was considered bitter. “The

BU gives the wrong signal to the consumer in terms of what the bitter impression will be,” said Dr. Thomas Shellhammer, a hop expert and fermentation professor at Oregon State University. Instead, we should focus on our perception of bitterness, which is affected by the hops, the brewer, other ingredients and the process itself. Even the chemistry of water directly affects hop flavor. Pairing food with our beer adds even greater layers of complexity when it comes to bitterness. If I were the self-appointed and ever-benevolent king of the beer world, I would decree that we remove all IBU numbers. We would henceforth describe the impact and the nuance of hoppiness in our beer paired with our food. Only then would we be free from the misdirection of IBUs, and free to experience just how beautiful and balanced a little bitterness can be.


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food + drink

Josh Chang

CRAVINGS:

BURGERS ’N BEER

ANCESTRY BREWING Father and son Jerry and Jeremy Turner’s Tualatin-based brewery’s airy, modern Hawthorne taproom lets no Best Coast IPA imbiber go hungry, piling the menu’s quartet of grass-fed Wagyu beef burgers with everything from the classic lettuce-tomato-pickles combo to smoked gouda, porter-caramelized onions and smoky aioli. Try the feta and garlic tzatziki-topped lamb burger, best paired with crispy sweet potato waffle fries, or the bacon and beer cheese-drenched potato twisters, a meal in and of itself. 4334 SE HAWTHORNE BLVD. PORTLAND www.ancestrybrewing.com

INITIATIVE BREWING Nearby Bend gets the lion’s share of beer-related buzz in Central Oregon, but Redmond’s suds scene is thriving too. Join regulars watching the game at the bar and chase your Hare of the Dog IPA with the Grandmaster Swine Burger, a burly beef burger piled with slow-cooked pulled pork, caramelized onions, Tillamook cheddar and housemade barbecue sauce, on a brioche bun from Bend’s Big Ed’s Artisan Bread.

Gastronomy

Leta Norton and Meredith Mortensen prep a pasta-making class.

ANGEL’S SHARE BARREL HOUSE

Cookshop

written by Jen Stevenson WHETHER YOU’D PERSONALLY benefit from a crash course in holiday pie-making or want to give the gift of heightened kitchen prowess to someone you love, like, or randomly picked in the office gift exchange, this darling Division Street cooking studio has it all. Founder Meredith Mortensen—a Le Cordon Bleu graduate and longtime pastry chef and instructor—curates an A-list roster of local food luminaries and tastemakers such as master baker and pastry chef Kir Jensen, former Fine Cooking and Oregonian food editor and cookbook author Martha Holmberg, and James Beard Award-winning food writer and cookbook author Danielle Centoni. They cover a variety of delicious topics and techniques, from cake-making 101 to cooking with cannabis. Chefs, both seasoned and budding, are welcome. The studio hosts frequent kids’ workshops that teach essential skills and promote culinary confidence. Dig out your well-worn Will Cook For Wine apron and check out the class calendar, browse pasta cutters and pelmeni molds in the online shop, or pick up stocking-stuffer-ready gift certificates. 2627 SE CLINTON ST. PORTLAND www.portlandcookshop.com

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424 NW 5TH ST. REDMOND www.initiativebrew.com

Raise a pint of Reverend Nat’s Revival Apple Cider or Santiam Brewing Company’s Farmhouse Saison and praise the lard, or more specifically, the pepper bacon, Tillamook white cheddar and crispy jalapeño-layered Church House Burger at Chad and Melissa Casady’s lovingly refurbished circa 1891 Presbyterian church turned Turner taphouse. For dessert, try the Heavenly Fry Bread, crispy golden orbs of homemade fry bread graced with whipped cream, marionberry sauce and candied hazelnuts. 5420 DENVER ST SE TURNER www.facebook.com/AngelsShareBarrelHouse

FERMENT BREWING COMPANY Between Columbia River Gorge views, a flickering fire pit and easy-drinking farmhouse and English-style ales brewed with wild-harvested Mount Hood yeast, you may find yourself spending more time at this bright, beautiful Hood River taproom. Snack on the house-fermented kraut, kimchi and pickle plate, or get your pickle fix on a thick grass-fed Cascade Farms cheeseburger, Impossible Burger or fry sauce-slathered salmon burger, followed by a house-brewed kombucha and frozen yogurt float. 403 PORTWAY AVE. HOOD RIVER www.fermentbrewing.com

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019


food + drink BEST PLACES FOR

COZYING UP WITH YOUR COFFEE As afternoon pick-me-ups go, this Korean coffeehouse takes things to a whole new level, leaving no darling dessert detail unturned— iced rose lattes are accented with delicate sprigs of fresh rosemary, vibrant green matcha lattes arrive with a complimentary cream puff, and before you can sip your snow affogato, you’ll need to pour a shot of hot espresso over a Matterhorn of cotton candy to reveal the generous scoop of vanilla ice cream beneath. 2250 E BURNSIDE ST. PORTLAND www.instagram.com/cafe_sorosoro

REMIX COFFEE BAR Little sibling to popular downtown Ashland pastry and ice cream haunt Mix Bakeshop, restaurateur Jamie North’s sleek and modern cafe spins meticulous macchiatos and mochas using beans from a variety of roasters, and stocks a serious selection of fresh-baked goods from the Mix mothership. Preface your lemon meringue tart and café au lait with a simple selection of light soups, salads and sandwiches.

Carly Diaz

SORO SORO

Vegetables are the main dish at G-Love.

Dining

G-Love written by Jen Stevenson

Evolving from Manzanita Farmers Market favorite to a brickand-mortar-bakery in nearby Nehalem, husband-wife team Phil Dagostino and Jordan Gulaskey make quite the dynamic duo. Former barista Gulaskey roasts her own beans using a petite navy blue Diedrich roaster and pulls the espresso, while seasoned baker Dagostino turns out plump dark brown loaves of wildfermented bread, rye, baguettes, croissants and cinnamon buns. Go early for a just-baked pain au chocolat and cortado made with fresh milk from local Bennet Family Farm.

A FRESH FEATHER in Portland’s growing plant-centric dining scene’s cap, chef Garrett Benedict’s new fifty-seat Slabtown restaurant is a “reverse steakhouse,” meaning that vegetables— sourced primarily from Olde Moon Farm in Silverton—take priority on the menu, while meat dishes sit on the sidelines. Parked on the red-bricked ground floor of The Carson Apartments building, the high-ceilinged corner space’s sky blue and lemon yellow palette is reminiscent of Benedict’s years in sunny California, working in renowned vegetable-forward kitchens such as Napa Valley’s The Restaurant at Meadowood and Ubuntu, and, most recently, as chef de cuisine at Michelin-starred AL’s Place in San Francisco’s Mission District. Whether your idea of a good time is a bowl of crisp baby lettuces tossed in a deeply flavored plum vinaigrette, a nest of bucatini slicked with housemade heirloom tomato sauce and briny boquerones, a perfectly pink charred hanger steak with creamy gouda fondue and caramelized onions, or all of the above, you’re covered. For dessert, order a French press of locally roasted Good Coffee and lick the spoon—as in, the $1 spoonful of housemade butterscotch sprinkled with baby popcorn and sea salt. Bartender Collin Nicholas’s drinks menu is as vivid and fun as the food—try the carrot- and bell pepper-infused Maria-Teresa mezcal cocktail, or The Betty, a charismatic concoction of tequila, spiced pineapple, aloe, lime and coconut water named after Benedict’s wife, a textiles designer who assisted in restaurant design, sewed the staff aprons and even handcrafted the bread baskets and candleholders. And last but assuredly not least, don’t leave without a peek inside the gold sequin and faux-foliage-walled bathrooms, both shoo-ins for the Portland’s quirkiest restaurant loos.

35915 8TH ST. NEHALEM www.wolfmoonbakery.com

1615 NW 21ST AVE PORTLAND www.g-lovepdx.com

1602 ASHLAND ST. ASHLAND www.remixcoffee.com

FIKA SISTERS COFFEEHOUSE Bringing a dose of Scandinavian charm to Sisters, history teacherturned barista Renee Reitmeier’s homey coffee shop—named for the Swedish ritual of taking a daily coffee and sweet snack break with good company—will quickly warm your wintry fingers with a vanilla latte and piece of blackberry almond cake, or perhaps a warm wedge of homemade quiche. If you wish the space (bemuraled by beloved Portland-based illustrator Lisa Congdon) was your office, what luck—the loft hosts Jobb, a community coworking space. 201 EAST SUN RANCH DR. SISTERS www.fikasisters.com

WOLFMOON

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

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farm to table

Farm to Table

Wild Goose Chase Hunting game birds with ROE Outfitters in Klamath Falls written by Sophia McDonald photography by Toby Nolan

A flock of ducks takes flight from a small bay along the southern shore of Klamath Lake. The lake hosts not only a healthy duck population but also geese, egrets, pelicans and much more.

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farm to table

THE DICKENSIAN NOTION of a Christmas goose spiked with fresh herbs and surrounded by roast vegetables holds nostalgic appeal. Indeed, a waterfowl or wild bird of any sort makes a fitting alternative to a holiday turkey—especially if the factory-farmed turkey is the only thing available at the local market. Those with a desire to hew strictly to Victorian tradition may get the most satisfaction from hunting the centerpiece of their holiday meal. Guides such as Darren Roe with ROE Outfitters in Klamath Falls are there to give people with all experience levels the best shot (so to speak) at a good catch. ROE (which, in addition to being the owner’s name, stands for “Real Oregon Experience”) works with people looking to bag waterfowl such as geese and ducks, or do upland hunting for mountain and valley quail. There are some distinct differences between the two experiences, explained co-owner Jenifer Roe. “Most hunts that we do for ducks and geese, it’s pretty much a 4 a.m. meet time,” she said. “You see a lot of beautiful sunrises when you’re a waterfowl hunter.” Though hunters are expected to provide personal equipment such as waders and firearms, guides with ROE set up decoys, blinds or boats. They do duck or goose calls to attract birds to the area, a task that isn’t as easy as it seems. “Even the small details about when to call, when not to call, how loud to call, the cadence of your call,” Roe said. “It’s very intricate how they bring the birds in to you.” The hunt typically wraps up around noon, although the guide’s job is far from over. The afternoon is their time to scout out where the birds are so they can take people to them the following day. Breathe easy, morning haters: An upland hunt begins closer to 8 a.m. and goes later into the day. “There’s less scouting; more of that is done preseason and the guides know where the birds are,” Roe said. For nonwater birds, that early scouting is one of the biggest values the guide brings. “When people come into an area that they don’t live in, it’s nearly impossible to figure out where to go in their limited period of time. If you want to make sure you don’t miss the best opportunities, then you hire a guide.” For some people, “the cool part of hunting is working over a dog and watching them do what they’re bred to do,” Roe said. For waterfowl hunting, Chesapeake retrievers, Labradors or other retrievers fetch birds after they’ve been shot. In upland hunting, enthusiasts will use a pointer such as a German wirehaired to sniff out birds, assume the classic position once they’ve located them, and retrieve them once they’re down. They’re also valuable for “flushing,” or startling the birds so they take off. “You don’t shoot them on the ground,” she said. “That’s considered poor sportsmanship.” NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

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farm to table

FROM LEFT Whether it be locating and pointing upland birds or retrieving waterfowl, Oreo’s joy for her work never fades. Jen and Darren Roe, owners of Real Oregon Experience and Crater Lake Zipline, on the shores of Klamath Lake.

For others, the bounty of bird hunting is the real treat. Roe still remembers the joy of consuming the first duck she felled. “You were really a part of the whole process, and you knew exactly where it came from, and you had to work for it, so that was really cool. It was neat to say, ‘I brought this to the table.’” That desire to know exactly where food comes from is attracting a new crop of people to the sport. “Adults are coming into hunting because they want meat that’s been treated ethically,” said Michelle Dennehy, spokeswoman for the Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife (ODFW). “For anyone interested in hunting, birds are a great way to get started. They’re considered easier than big game in many respects.” ODFW offers classes for novice hunters and helps everyone looking for game birds by ensuring populations stay steady. They partner with federal and state natural resource agencies and tribes all over the West to manage the migratory waterfowl that travel through Oregon annually. They also set five-year frameworks to preserve non-migratory birds, including quail, chukar, pheasants and grouse. Part of those conservation efforts is hunting birds only during the proper season. Typically, waterfowl can be hunted October and January. Upland bird season can begin as early as September and go into January. 26          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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Although it’s a far cry from Dickens’ England, a wild game bird hot pot can make for a memorable holiday meal. “When doing hot pot at home, it’s important to remember that it’s meant to be communal,” said Peter Cho of Han Oak, who took first place at Nicky USA’s annual Wild About Game event in 2018 with this recipe. “It’s active, it’s social. The key is to have a good variety of things to make unlimited combinations, so each bite can be different.” For a more traditional Thanksgiving or Christmas main dish, try pancetta and mushroom-stuffed quail from chef Patrick McGee at Portland’s Estes, which is co-located with DAME. Another option is quinoa-stuffed game hen from chef Jaco Smith at Lechon, a South American restaurant in Portland. The birds are brined before they’re filled with grains, dried fruit and nuts, giving this recipe an added connection to a holiday cooking method employed by many. Duck breast with balsamic and honey glaze can work for a special occasion or any night of the week. “Duck breast is very good if cooked not more than medium. Otherwise it will become dry,” said Simone Savaiano, chef-owner of Mucca Osteria in Portland. “If you have a meat thermometer, for medium, you want to reach 140 degrees right in the center. It is very important to let it rest before you cut it. You will save all the juice in the meat.”


farm to table

Pancetta and Mushroom-Stuffed Quail with Fresh Corn Polenta, Cherry Tomatoes and Padrón Peppers Estes Restaurant / PORTLAND Patrick McKee SERVES 2

Balsamic and Honey-Glazed Duck Breast.

Oregon Recipes

Duck, Duck, Goose Balsamic and Honey-Glazed Duck Breast Mucca Osteria / PORTLAND Simone Savaiano SERVES 4 2 duck breasts 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 2 tablespoons honey Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Remove duck breasts from refrigerator and bring to room temperature, then score the breast fat with a sharp knife, being sure not to cut into the flesh. Season the duck breast with salt and pepper on both sides. Starting with a cold, nonstick pan, place duck fat-side down without oil. Place pan over medium heat so that the fat begins to melt, then flip to the other side to sear the duck for 1 minute. Flip again so the duck is fat-side down, then put the pan in the oven for 6 to 8 minutes. When the duck is cooked, rest it on a cutting board skin-side up for 10 minutes. Discard fat from the pan and deglaze with balsamic over a medium heat, letting it reduce a bit. Add honey, then reduce heat and mix until it’s a smooth, thick glaze. Use a few drops of water if necessary. Cut breast into slices and brush with glaze.

MORE ONLINE

Find recipes for Lechon’s Quinoa-Stuffed Game Hen and Han Oak’s Wild Game Bird Hot Pot online at www.1859oregonmagazine.com

FOR CORN POLENTA 4 ears fresh corn, shucked 1 large leek, cleaned and medium   dice 1 tablespoon fresh basil, lightly   chopped 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter Salt and pepper FOR STUFFING ¼ cup pancetta, cut into small cubes 1 teaspoon olive oil 1 tablespoon minced garlic ⅓ pound crimini mushrooms,   roughly chopped FOR CORN POLENTA Grate the corn on a box grater using the largest grating side. Take leftover corn cobs and make a simple corn stock by adding cold water to cover them in a pot, and slowly simmer for about 30 minutes. Use the corn stock to thin your polenta if needed. In a heavy-bottom saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat and sauté diced leek until it starts to get soft, then add the grated corn. Add salt and pepper to taste. Turn heat to low and slowly cook until the corn begins to thicken, about 15 minutes. Cover with a lid and keep warm while you sear the quail and cherry tomato-padróns. FOR STUFFING Remove quail from package and blot dry with a towel, place on a plate and into the fridge. Heat olive oil in a heavy-bottom sauté pan over medium heat. Render the pancetta until it is brown and crispy. Leave pancetta fat in the pan. Add garlic and chili flakes and sweat, then deglaze the pan with the white wine. Once wine has reduced and is almost gone, add the mushrooms and sauté until soft. Add the chopped thyme or oregano. If your mushrooms are chopped small enough, the stuffing is

¼ cup white wine 2 tablespoons fresh thyme   or oregano, chopped Pinch chili flakes Salt and pepper Drizzle of aged balsamic FOR QUAIL AND PLATING 2 quail, semi-boneless 2 tablespoons olive oil Butter Salt and pepper 1 pint cherry tomatoes, cleaned,   stems off and left whole 1 pint padrón peppers, cleaned 1 teaspoon olive oil Salt and pepper

ready. I like to pulse mine in a small food processor until chunky. Season the quail with salt and pepper, inside the cavity and out. Spoon the filling into the cavity of the quail. Make a small incision below the leg bone on one side and gently push the other leg through it to help keep the stuffing in—the quail will look like it has its legs crossed. Set aside. FOR QUAIL AND PLATING In a heavy-bottom sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat and sear the quail until golden brown, turning the quail to make sure it doesn’t burn and is browned all over. Add butter and baste the quail until they have finished cooking, about 7 or 8 minutes. Add leftover sprigs of thyme or oregano to the pan, and baste with these in it. Set aside and let rest for 5 minutes or so. In a small sauté pan over high heat, sauté the cherry tomatoes and padrón peppers until the skins start to blister, about 1 to 2 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Finish the polenta by stirring in the butter and basil and taste for seasoning. Spoon onto 2 plates. Spoon the corn polenta on plates with the cherry tomato-padrón mix next to it, with the quail on top. Finish with a drizzle of aged balsamic.

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farm to table

Home Grown Chef

Game On

Thor Erickson SERVES 2

written by Thor Erickson photography by Charlotte Dupont IT WAS NOVEMBER on the Oregon Coast. The Lincoln City restaurant where I worked had slowed down from a busy summer and fall, and was closing for a week of sorely needed renovations. This also meant some well-needed rest for the yearround employees. “What are you doin’ the next coupla days?” my coworker, Mark, asked as we packed our knife bags. Mark was a short, stocky grill cook who loved ’80s New Wave music and had recently taken to hunting and fishing. “I think I’m going to spend some time in Portland to take in some music and check out some new restaurants,” I replied. I finished packing my tools and headed out the kitchen’s back door and climbed in my truck. As I started to back out, I saw that Mark had pulled behind me, blocking me in with his beatup Dodge 4X4. “Let’s go bird hunting!” he yelled out his driver’s side truck window. “You can be my bird dog … ’cause I don’t have one.” After a couple of beers and some convincing, I agreed to go with Mark to Northeastern Oregon to hunt pheasant, quail and maybe some grouse. We hit the road that night, making our way across the state. Four hours and a few Depeche Mode albums later, we arrived in Heppner, in the foothills of the Blue Mountains—just in time to start the morning’s hunt. Mark had arranged for us to look for pheasant at a private reserve just outside of town. Luckily, I did not need to do the first job of a bird dog, which is to flush the birds from their roost. I am not a huge fan of being on the wrong side of a gun— or either side, for that matter. The birds were simply scared into the air by our presence. Mark followed them with his rifle’s scope and gave a couple blasts. After a reload, he shot again, and again. Birds started to fall from the air. “Now you get to go get ’em,” Mark said victoriously. As I walked out to retrieve the birds, I soon realized there were so many, I needed to make quicker work of it. I went back to the truck and found a kitchen apron with several deep pockets. I put it on and went out to gather the birds. As my apron pockets grew heavy with pheasants, I spotted some wild chanterelle mushrooms growing nearby. The following recipe is the result. 28          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Maple-glazed Roast Pheasant with Chanterelle Mushrooms

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

1 pheasant, plucked, with skin on ¼ cup kosher salt 4 cups water ¼ cup pure maple syrup 1 large sprig of sage 1 head garlic, halved horizontally Ground black pepper 2 shallots, halved 4 ribs celery, cut into thirds 2 carrots, peeled and halved   lengthwise, then cut into thirds 1 pound chanterelle mushrooms,   halved if big, left whole if small ¼ cup olive oil Mix the salt and water together and whisk to dissolve the salt. When dissolved, pour it over the pheasant in a plastic or ceramic container, cover, and leave in the fridge for at least 4 hours, and up to 8 hours. Remove the pheasant and pat it dry. Let it rest on a cutting board while you preheat the oven to 450 degrees, about 15-20 minutes. In a large bowl, toss the chanterelles, garlic, shallots, celery and carrots in the olive oil. Lightly season with salt and black pepper. Put the sprig of sage into the pheasant’s cavity and dust the pheasant with freshly ground black pepper.  In a roasting pan, place the bird breast-side down on a rack made with the halved garlic, shallots, carrots and celery ribs. Arrange the chanterelles around the bird. Roast the pheasant for 15 minutes at 450 degrees, then drop the heat to 375 degrees and roast for another 20 minutes. Turn the pheasant breast-side up and baste with the syrup. Roast for another 30 to 40 minutes, basting twice in the first 20 minutes. If the glaze starts to brown too much, lightly cover the bird with loose foil. When the pheasant is done (the thigh should read 160 degrees on a meat thermometer), remove to a cutting board and tent loosely with foil. Let it rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, remove the roasted vegetables and arrange on a plate. Carve the bird, separating the breast and legs. Slice the breast and pull of leg and thigh meat. Carefully arrange the pheasant over the vegetables. Note: This recipe pairs well with a wild rice pilaf and an Oregon pinot noir.

Pheasant can be a fine alternative to the usual holiday meal.


farm to table

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home + design Annie Wise freshened up the kitchen in her Mid-century home, but kept some period details, such as the glass blocks over the sink.

Mhari Scott Photography

Inside Track A tour of the personal kitchen remodels of an interior designer and architect written by Melissa Dalton

Portland: An Interior Designer’s DIY Update Achieves a Luxe Look on a Budget The kitchen layout in Annie Wise’s 1954 Portland ranch was a bit of a head-scratcher for the interior designer and owner of Wise Design. The stove and refrigerator were jammed into a corner together, so that neither could be opened simultaneously. A peninsula that separated the kitchen from the living room was a foot too long, extending into a walkway and choking people’s paths. Then there was the dishwasher, also a relic of another time. “It was the kind that you had to pull out of the cavity and then hook up to the sink to run it,” Wise said. Still, Wise and her husband, Eric, put up with the room’s eccentricities for seven years, until a plumbing leak sparked a remodel. The couple tackled much of the work themselves and kept to a strict budget. The ensuing redesign sought to eke more function from the house’s Mid-century quirks. “The main goal was to update it, but keep it timeless,” Wise said, “to make sure it was still warm and inviting, but just give it a more contemporary edge.” To that end, the layout was tweaked to give the stove and refrigerator more breathing room, and to shorten 30          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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the peninsula. Selective demo allowed Wise to save such defining features as the vaulted wood ceiling and a row of glass blocks that underscore the window over the sink. “I thought it was a nice little nod to the era of the house to just keep that,” Wise said. But other period leftovers, like the sagging cabinetry, worn linoleum floors and the dishwasher, had to go. “For cost reasons, we knew that we were going to have to do an IKEA kitchen,” Wise said. She opted for a suite of flat-front white cabinets from the retailer to create a neutral backdrop, then paired those with new oak floors and a butcher block counter, to inject warmth into the scheme. Other decisions employ simple materials to bespoke effect. For instance, Eric Wise fashioned extra molding pieces and applied them to the IKEA cabinetry to give them a more custom, built-in look. For the backsplash, Wise covered two walls all the way up to the 12-foot-high peaked ceilings in matte black subway tile. “I really wanted to accentuate the volume of the space and create some drama,” Wise said. “It was just a nice way to use an inexpensive material, to make it look more expensive because there’s so much of it.”


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Mhari Scott Photography

home + design

Wise used IKEA cabinets, then added vintage pulls and a butcher block counter.

“The main goal was to update it, but keep it timeless. To make sure it was still warm and inviting, but just give it a more contemporary edge.” — Annie Wise, owner and principal designer at Wise Design 32          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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Cheryl McIntosh Photography

Vintage finds complete the design. The couple unearthed era-appropriate brass drawer pulls at the salvage outfit Hippo Hardware, and when there weren’t enough, had more cast at a local fabricator. When asked to choose her favorite detail, Wise has too many to count—from the tile, to the hardware, to the light fixture over the sink that she bought from The ReBuilding Center for $5. “I love the way it jumps out, with the brass against the black tile,” Wise said. “And then, having a dishwasher that stays put.”


Cheryl McIntosh Photography

home + design

AT LEFT The Bend kitchen’s island features a thick piece of walnut and an induction range. ABOVE Replacing the floors and creating a rounded ceiling made a huge difference.

Bend: An Architect Packs Form and Function into an Addition The overhead lighting consisted of dangerously dim candle bulbs and the floors sloped several inches, but that was the least of architect Karen Smuland’s problems with the previous kitchen in her Bend house. “It was so small that we didn’t have room for food,” Smuland said, who had to hijack a hallway linen closet to get much-needed pantry space. Smuland’s home is a hybrid Tudor-Gothic style built in 1927, making the house rich in historic charm but the kitchen poor in modern function. In 2018, Smuland began drafting up a remodel. To start, Smuland no longer wanted the kitchen to be closed off from the rest of the house. She also wanted a real dining room, rather than what she had, which was a corner of the living room that could only fit a small, round table that barely fit a pizza. The solution was to open up the kitchen wall and incorporate a 210-square-foot addition, so that a dedicated dining area now sits in the kitchen’s old footprint. “Now I have a full-size dining table,” Smuland said. “I love to cook, and I love being a part of the conversation, rather than being relegated to the old closed-in kitchen.” Three big moves ensure that the new addition flows with the existing house. The old, damaged wood flooring was removed from the first floor, the sub-floor leveled to get rid of the slope, and new white oak flooring

installed to run seamlessly throughout the new open-concept floorplan. “That was a major challenge, but it was worth every penny,” Smuland said. A rounded ceiling in the kitchen, an idea proposed by Smuland’s husband, also references the curve found in the home’s dormers. “It really brings a lot of light and volume to the space,” Smuland said. Last, a set of red French doors connects the kitchen to the backyard, where Smuland keeps an office in a separate outbuilding. “It’s probably more transitional, where you’re melding different styles, both modern and a little bit of the traditional,” she said. For the material mix, that meant taking cues from the rest of the home and giving them a twist. For instance, Smuland chose flat-front, matte laminate cabinets from Fenix instead of a more expected panel door, but the white color matches the existing woodwork. Bronze hardware echoes the aged brass elsewhere in a “sleeker style.” Elongated white hexagonal backsplash tile relates to the house’s pointed archways on the front porch, yet feels fresh and up-to-date here. The remaining touches are both artful, like an island designed to feel sculptural with a thick chunk of walnut that cascades to the floor, and practical, like the induction range that can double as counter space when it’s cool, yet boils a kettle of tea water in the time it takes Smuland to grab a mug. “It just feels so peaceful when I walk into it,” Smuland said. “It’s my happy place.”

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home + design

DIY: How to Design a Pet-Feeding Station AS PART OF Karen Smuland’s kitchen remodel, she created a feed station for her golden retriever, Jack. Whether you opt for a freestanding unit, a DIY set-up, or a built-in version like hers, Smuland shared what she learned in the process, because no one wants to accidentally step in the dog’s water bowl while trying to bring in the groceries. 1 LOOK FOR AN OUT-OF-THE-WAY NOOK

Locate the feeding station where there is the least amount of foot traffic in the kitchen. Definitely avoid anywhere inside the “kitchen triangle,” or the invisible path between the stove, fridge and sink where the cook needs to work during meal prep. A popular approach is to create a niche at the end of the island or peninsula, or build in drawers, like Smuland did. 2 WATER, WATER, EVERYWHERE

“You can’t store a full water dish. I learned that real quick,” Smuland said with a laugh. “When you open it or close it, the water will spill out.” Since she likes to leave out fresh water for Jack, she has since realized her design “has areas for two bowls, but I really only need one,” Smuland said. STORE FOOD WISELY

Smuland’s station uses a tilt-out cupboard with an interior wrapped in stainless steel, into which she pours the dry dog food in order to store it. “Make sure you line the food bin with a food-safe material,” Smuland said.

Elevating the bowls, either on a raised platform or via a pull-out like Smuland, keeps anyone from inadvertently stepping inside them. 5 CORRAL PUPPY CLUTTER

As a bonus, store extra pet necessities nearby for easy retrieval, such as waste bags or towels for cleaning up muddy pawprints. Add a wall hook and hang the leash, and suddenly everything for the pup is in one efficient spot.

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Karen Smuland added a pet-feeding station to her kitchen remodel.

Cheryl McIntosh Photography

4 RAISE THE BOWLS


home + design

Kitchen Cuties Kitchen accessories with Mid-century modern flair

With its earthy red body, black half-moon print, and soft white interior glaze, the Large Eclipse Serving Bowl from Wolf Ceramics is an eye-catching piece, whether it’s decorating a holiday table or just sitting on the shelf. www.wolfceramics.com

In Annie Wise’s Portland kitchen, vintage touches personalize the IKEA cabinets, including where she reused the house’s original globe lighting. For a similar look, check out the Cedar & Moss Globe Pendant from Rejuvenation, which is made-to-order in Portland. www.rejuvenation.com

These block-printed linen tea towels from Willow Ship can certainly be used to dry hands and dishes, but they’re so pretty, we understand if you’d rather just display them instead. After all, the Portland-based graphic designerturned-printmaker Blake Kahan prints each of her wares by hand, so no two will be exactly the same. www.willowship.com

There’s nothing more classic than a radio playing in the kitchen. If yours needs an update, try the beautifully designed Model One from Tivoli Audio, which combines retro stylings—only three dials!—with a handmade wood shell and fantastic sound. www.tivoliaudio.com


mind + body

Runnin’ and Chuggin’

Allison Morgan, the reigning beer mile world champ, cultivates her special skill written by Mackenzie Wilson photography by Gwen Shoemaker

NOT MANY RUNNERS can say they’ve been disqualified multiple times from races for not finishing their beer. But for professional runner and Beer Mile competitor Allison Morgan, draining a beer is just as important as how fast she can run a mile. “A beer mile consists of four, 12-ounce bottles and they have to be 5 percent alcohol or higher. You drink a beer a lap—so four beers—four laps,” Morgan said. The 36-year-old started competing in the Beer Mile in 2016.

Allison Morgan runs on the Deschutes River Trail in Bend, one of her favorite local trails.

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mind + body

As a newcomer, she wasted no time making a name for herself. She broke the world record at her first race but got disqualified for having too much beer left in the bottles. Each runner’s bottles are emptied at the end of the race and they can’t contain more than a total of 4 ounces. For the last three years, she’s been working on her strategy for chugging beer. “I’m still figuring out the kinks,” she said. “I try to take down as much as I can so that I don’t have any extra left because part of it is the foam forming and it’s the angle of the bottle, it’s the temperature of the bottle and it can all play to your advantage or not,” she said. Morgan lives in Bend, which has been hailed as Beer Town USA, so she’s in the right spot to train. Even with all the breweries surrounding her, it’s still tough to prepare for the Beer Mile. “Drinking and running is hard on your body, so I really can’t do that often,” Morgan said. “I only do two, maybe three beers, and do the workout.” After being disqualified in 2016, Morgan took another blow in London at the world championships, where she was disqualified for spitting out some of the beer she drank. Morgan says the biggest challenge isn’t always getting the beer down … it’s keeping it there. If runners throw up during the Beer Mile, they have to do an extra lap, which usually takes them out of the race. Morgan has been running professionally for more than a decade, but said the Beer Mile is the one event where she’s gotten a lot of recognition. “It’s kind of funny, I think part of that is because a lot more people can relate to the beer part of it,” she said. “So it’s kind of more of an interesting event for people to hear about and the fact that it’s such a challenge makes people really into it.” After years of stressing over whether she’d leave too much beer behind, in August, Morgan won the Beer Mile World Classic in Berlin. She finished in 6 minutes and 24 seconds, the second-best all time. Now, she wants to break the world record. “I want to run close to six minutes next year because they basically told me, ‘If you get anywhere close to 6 minutes, you would be the best ever.’”

Allison Grace Morgan Professional Runner for Brooks Off-Road Runners/Trail Team Age: 36 Born: Columbus, Ohio Residence: Bend

WORKOUT “I run every day, do core and strength a few times a week at practice, and working as a physical therapy aide, I teach and perform exercises to get stronger and stay healthy.”

NUTRITION “I focus on a balanced diet of fruits, vegetables, grains, and protein. I like to make smoothies as a snack. Our family eats smaller meals throughout the day, usually every two hours.”

INSPIRATION “My husband, Thomas, inspires me because he is always trying new things. He has recently become an avid skier and started mountain biking with a group of guys in town. I wish I could be more daring and come out of my comfort zone like many of my friends who run ultra-distance races. Ultrarunner Max King is an inspiration and good friend to me.”

EVENTS “I’ll be running the California International Marathon to try to qualify for the 2020 Olympic marathon trials in February. It will be my last attempt at qualifying. I have qualified for the last three Olympic Trials ranging from 10k to the marathon.”

HEALTHY LIVING “As a professional runner, my body tends to rebel if I am not eating as healthy or not hydrating enough. You burn what you eat, and you need to be eating the right types of food to provide sustainable energy and keep you feeling strong. Running, hiking and riding bikes with my two sons are ways I can be healthy and stay active while having fun.”

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Artist in Residence

Moving to the Abstract in Modern Portraiture Ruth Shively brings life to her art written by Kevin Max

Artwork by Ruth Shively

RUTH SHIVELY ALWAYS knew she needed to escape small-town Nebraska. In high school, she was drawn to art, but there was no future in art for a “Depression-era” family in Nebraska. Neither her parents nor her high school guidance counselor understood her affinity for art, she said, and they didn’t encourage her to pursue it in college or as a career. “They wanted me to do anything but art,” Shively said.


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artist in residence Ruth Shively, in her Southeast Portland studio, paints primarily Russian models.

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artist in residence

“I’ve learned to let things go and to come back to them and realize that sometimes the mistakes I make are good mistakes.” — Ruth Shively She enrolled at the University of Nebraska and took a more traditional academic route before taking her first drawing class. “My illustration teacher said, ‘Why aren’t you an art major?’” she said. “I didn’t know that I could be.” Her teacher, Shelley Thornton, then persuaded the young artist to go to New York City, perhaps one of the few places artists could earn a living at that time. “I finally got the courage to visit New York and found a job with an illustrator, as an illustrator’s assistant.” She began focusing on children’s illustration and making book dummies for children’s books. Eventually, she met and married her husband, Kevin. The two sought a new experience in a different place and moved to Portland in 1994. Shively put illustrations on the back burner and began making an artistic transition to painting while in Portland. “I started playing with paint and with acrylic, and the paintings I did were very childlike, very flat,” she said. The couple then uprooted again and returned to New York in 2000, but this time to the small enclave of Hudson, New York, 130 miles north of the city. “It was kind of a landing spot for people who couldn’t afford to live in the city,” Shively noted. She continued to experiment with painting on and off and started showing her work at cafes in the area. Seeking more, she began looking for contemporary painters on the internet whose work inspired her. Shively came across Alex Kanevsky, a Russian artist teaching at the Philadelphia School of Art. “His paintings are very fluid, very mysterious,” she said. “I think what I’ve learned

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about his work over time is that there are layers and layers and that not every painting just comes out.” Kanevsky’s paintings drew Shively into modern or contemporary portraiture, a genre whose forms she’s increasingly pursuing in the abstract. Her studio is a room adjacent to the kitchen in her Southeast Portland home. In what might have been a small dining room in other households are easels, canvases and paint strewn over throw cloths underfoot. Many of her paintings are based on shots of Russian models taken by Russian photographers. Their faces are wanton, sometimes exhibiting either ecstasy or pain, or both. The colors are muted browns and grays. Cheeks may merit a dramatic splash of saturated red, pink or orange depending on the subject and the mood. Shively first encountered the models’ photos on Flickr, and soon struck up a professional relationship that brought her into a group of artists, actors, dancers and musicians in Russia. As part of her process, she would work from these photos, at first, more in a literal translation to oil paints before moving to a more abstract representation. This transition hasn’t been without its challenges, however. Shively had to teach herself the power of walking away. “Sometimes you have to put paintings aside and go back to them after a while,” she said. “That used to be very hard for me because I used to be more literal with my work, more into realism. I’ve learned to let things go and to come back to them and realize that sometimes the mistakes I make are good mistakes.”

Find Ruth Shively’s work at www.ruthshively.com, on Instagram @painter_lady and exhibited at Imogen Gallery in Astoria, November 10 through December 10.

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STARTUP 44 WHAT’S GOING UP 48 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 50 MY WORKSPACE 52

pg. 52 Step into Dehen 1920’s fashion factory.

Joe Kline

GAME CHANGER 54


startup

Origin Story Ginew’s high-end apparel seeks to increase visibility of Native culture and people written by Sheila G. Miller

ERIK BRODT AND Amanda Bruegl are busy. The married couple are full-time physicians and professors at Oregon Health & Sciences University in Portland—Bruegl is a gynecologic oncologist, Brodt the director of the Northwest Native American Center of Excellence. That would be enough for many. But they also own and operate Ginew, a high-end apparel company that seeks to increase visibility of Native culture and people. The pair grew up in the Great Lakes region, and moved to Oregon in 2015 after Bruegl was recruited to OHSU’s Department of Obstetrics and Gynecology and the Knight Cancer Institute. They started making leather goods in 2011 using the buffalo Brodt’s father shot for their wedding, the hide of which they’d prepared in Erik’s parents’ garage. They crafted belts for friends and family who participated in their wedding. After selling one of the extra belts to a stranger who offered $200 for it, the couple decided to start a company. But the leather goods industry quickly became saturated, and Brodt found the public had a hard time distinguishing between a wellmade Ginew belt that cost more than $100 and a $50 knockoff. With Bruegl’s medical training taking up a great deal of time, the pair took a break. But on a trip to Marfa, Texas, Brodt did what he calls a “thought experiment” about his great-greatgrandfather, who he said had moved from life as a hunter-

gatherer to an agrarian society. “He experienced tremendous shifts in his life,” he said. “I just can’t imagine what life must have been like at that time.” The result of his thought experiment: a coat Brodt believed would have been ideal for his ancestor’s activities, complete with symbols, patterns and elements that help tell the story of his family. “I made a few for us and some friends, and we posted it on Instagram,” Brodt said. That’s when the brand really took off. Two Japanese magazines took notice of the jacket, and the company scored an invitation to a denim show. Each garment is designed with a family member or story in mind, or the couple’s experiences. The collection features fine finishes, from the zippers to the Pendleton wool to the deer hides the couple hunts and prepares themselves—this is not fast fashion.

Brandon Scott Herrell

Ginew’s pieces often feature symbols and patterns that help tell the owners’ family stories.

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NOVEMBER NOVEMBER || DECEMBER DECEMBER 2019 2019


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startup

Erik Brodt and Amanda Bruegl (photo: Josué Rivas)

“A lot of people look at our collection and say, ‘What is Native American about this?’ You don’t see stereotypical designs. I think a lot of us have been wronged by the education system and the media, that Native Americans are supposed to be a certain way. … That construct is false, and that’s what we’re trying to move against.” — Erik Brodt, Ginew co-founder “A lot of people look at our collection and say, ‘What is Native American about this?’ You don’t see stereotypical designs. I think a lot of us have been wronged by the education system and the media, that Native Americans are supposed to be a certain way. … That construct is false, and that’s what we’re trying to move against,” he said. “When I look at our collection I think it is very Indigenous and not just because of what it looks 46          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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like, but the values we instill in each garment—the symbols, the traditional textiles and the family story.” Brodt is Ojibwe, while Bruegl is Oneida and StockbridgeMunsee. Many members of their family still live in tribal communities in Wisconsin and Minnesota. “We all have different nuances and customs and spiritual beliefs,” Brodt said. “We both come from woodland tribes, but we’re from two different tribes with very different traditions, even so basic as I get my place in the tribe from my dad, while in her tribe she gets her place in the tribe from her mother. “We’re not all the same, and that’s been a really important aspect of advancing the narrative.” Brodt said Ginew’s products don’t seek an “in-your-face” approach to representation. “We’re trying to open up a space where meaningful discussions can be had,” he said. “That may sound different from what other, more resistance-based movements want to do right now. But we’re not here to shout anybody down. We’re here to open dialogue and create a space where we increase not only awareness, but also make sure people are comfortable and educated enough to move to action.” Because the couple works in medicine with an emphasis on science and quantitative data, they needed an artistic outlet. “We can share who we are, share our stories, experience stuff together and design together. It’s really a creative process,” he said. “It’s also been really enriching in a relational way. The people we meet are amazing, and it’s been a blast.” Brodt hopes encouraging more native voices to join fashion and other creative industries will cut down on the appropriation. Brodt pointed to companies which, he said, “borrow” designs and call them Native American when they’re not. “Having an Indigenous presence in that tier of the fashion ecosystem is very important socially,” Brodt said. “We’re not just a brand that tries to make money. We have a mission and a vision to be inclusive.” In a recent photography session, every person involved in the shoot was Indigenous. During an introduction, Brodt said, participants spoke five languages. “We hope to inspire native youth who maybe want to do that work someday in the fashion ecosystem. It’s just bigger.” The company, which now produces jackets, vests, denim, accessories and T-shirts, hopes to become a bit more like a household name than what Brodt describes as an “obscure kind of cute thing, like ‘Oh look, Indians doing stuff.’” To that end, Brodt and Bruegl will continue meticulously sourcing materials and constructing quality garments they personally want to wear. Someday, perhaps, they’ll be able to move the company out of their Portland home and into a space where they can hire other native creatives, or create a collective. For now, the company plans to add button-up shirts, chinos and shorts to its collection. “We don’t want to be the only American Indian-owned denim company,” he said. “We really want to inspire others to join us in this, and that might actually happen as we continue to grow.”


Kari Rowe

Ginew sells meticulously crafted vests, jackets and denim.


what’s going up?

Unconventional Oregon Convention Center gets a facelift SINCE 1990, THE OREGON Convention Center’s glass towers have been a part of Portland’s skyline. And now, the convention center has a new look, thanks to a $39.5 million renovation that reimagines what it means to go on your next dreaded work trip. Craig Stroud, the executive director of the Oregon Convention Center, said there were two big reasons to upgrade the facility. One, it needed a refresh—Portland in 1990 was a lot different than it is today, and he wanted the aesthetic of the center to reflect that. Two, the Hyatt Regency Portland at the Oregon Convention Center is slated to open in January. The Oregon Convention Center holds about 500 events each year, Stroud said, with fifty or more conventions and between 500,000 and 600,000 visitors. Stroud said the design of the convention center is poised to be a gamechanger—when you’re in the Oregon Convention Center, you’ll recognize it as Portland in a way that’s different from most convention centers. “The majority of convention centers? Once you walk in, you see neutral colors and you could be anywhere,” he said. Not so with the new interior. “We were inspired to say, ‘You’re in Portland, you’re in Oregon, you’re in the Northwest, and our inspiration was from the natural elements from the place we call home.” The wallpaper is textured and meant to evoke a stand of trees. The carpeting looks like lichen,

with a gray color in the general thoroughfares and bright colors in areas where visitors will gather. And the piece de resistance, the ceiling of the Oregon Ballroom, which has 1,000 individually suspended pieces of wood meant to evoke looking up into a forest canopy. The area is supplemented with LED lighting, and a space outside the Oregon Ballroom features a topographic interpretation in wood panels of the Cascade Range, from Mount Hood to Crater Lake. “You can’t help but know you’re in Oregon,” Stroud said. The remodel, which was overseen by general contractor Colas Construction, a Portlandbased firm, also included exterior work in the plaza outside the center, including weathered steel and column basalt trucked in from the Columbia Gorge, native plants and changed pathways to direct visitors to the doors. Like most remodels, much of the other work is invisible—retrofitted lighting and improved audiovisual technology included. The remodel was also very Oregonian in another way—recycling. The entire facility’s carpet (10 tons’ worth) was replaced, and the original carpet’s backing was put on new carpet for another facility, while the wool carpet was shredded to be used in the Puget Sound as part of a wastewater filtration system. “That was good work on our part to not incinerate it,” Stroud said. “We found solutions and we were innovative. … That’s just who we are.”

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2019

Photos: Oregon Convention Center

written by Sheila G. Miller

FROM TOP Artwork throughout the Oregon Convention Center is meant to evoke the city and state. The Oregon Ballroom ceiling has wood accents. The outdoor area also received upgrades. New carpet is designed to look like lichen along a forest floor.


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what i’m working on

Spoonful of Sugar Oregon’s Brigittine Monks make fudge and other sweet treats interview by Beau Eastes

FOR MORE THAN 600 years, members of the monastic Order of the Most Holy Savior—known more commonly as Brigittines after their founder, St. Bridget of Sweden—have dedicated their lives to prayer and work. Known across Europe for their hospitality to travelers, most orders support themselves as bed and breakfasts. Here in Oregon, the Brigittine Monks, located in a monastery on 44 acres of picturesque land just outside of Amity, have embraced a different and delicious self-sustaining business model—artisan fudge and truffles. We caught up with Brother Steven Vargo, prior and business manager of the Brigittine Monks. How did the monastery get into fudge-making? When the community first started (in 1976), we made carrot and zucchini cakes as a means of self-support. These items sold very well, but they did not have a long shelf life. Most monasteries in the ’80s were making fruit cake or cheese. We wanted to do something different, so we started to experiment with making fudge. … Eventually, we received assistance from a professional candy maker who showed us how to improve our fudge and how to make truffles. We started production of our gourmet fudge in 1982 and truffle production in 1983. How exactly are the brothers’ different talents and skills used in the monastery? Several brothers like to cook and bake. They were the ones who developed the fudge and truffle recipes. Even to this day one of the brothers still is involved in the making of the candy, and he still is developing new items and new ideas. 50          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The monastery’s fudge comes in a variety of flavors. Truffles are hand-rolled and quite large. The fudge is smooth because the brothers make their own marshmallow crème.

We also have brothers who like to work outside and have developed a small vineyard and orchard on the property for our own use. The founder of our community, Brother Benedict Kirby, was a nurse anesthetist and was in charge of the nursing staff at several hospitals. His skill and talent to direct and organize things were used to establish our community and helped us organize into a monastery. We also have brothers who are talented and skilled in maintaining equipment and buildings. Other brothers are talented in artwork and iconography. Their talents are put to use in designing and planning future projects for the community or in the case of iconography, providing another means of revenue for the monastery. In what ways does fudge further the mission of the monetary? Through our fudge-making and other sources of income, we are able to provide assistance to some of the Brigittine Houses of our

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

order in Mexico and provide scholarship funds for students. We also make donations to organizations that help those in need. The fudge and truffles have helped us get our message out that our life is a life of prayer. We do get a lot of tourists and visitors here at the monastery and they come for various reasons. Some come to pray and spend time in the chapel. Some come to buy candy and visit our gift shop. Many come out of curiosity and enjoy the peace and silence that is part of our lifestyle. What does the future hold for the Brigittine Monks and your fudge business? We are developing new items and we hope to increase our production to be able to continue providing for the needs of the monastery and those who are in need of our assistance. We move forward trusting in God to take care of the needs of the monastery and to become better monks.


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my workspace Leather-sleeved varsity jackets. Waxed canvas overshirts. Motorcycle sweaters and World War II deck coats. These gems aren’t relegated to the attic trunks of your favorite uncle or grandfather. At Dehen 1920 in Portland, these touchstones of scholastic, military and athletic apparel never went out of vogue—or off the production line. Using 1950’s-era knitting machines in its Laurelhurst factory, workers make garments made to last generations.

“We know that when you buy one of our sweaters or jackets, you’re going to have it for as long as you want to take care of it,” said Jim Artaiz, a partner who began working the phones in 1985. He also represents the Dehen family’s fourth generation—his wife is the granddaughter of founder William Peter Dehen. Making garments that get passed down is a principle that has led the company to its 100th anniversary, which it will celebrate next year.

My Workspace

Always in Style Dehen 1920 makes clothing that lasts a lifetime—or more written by Peter Madsen photography by Joe Kline 52          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE NOVEMBER | DECEMBER

2019


my workspace

AT LEFT Scott Duddridge prepares a 1950s-era knitting machine for operation at the Dehen 1920 factory in Portland. ABOVE Jim Artaiz sits for a portrait surrounded by Dehen-manufactured apparel. BELOW Button locations are marked on a jacket.

In the 24,000 square-foot factory, Artaiz hoisted an N-1 Deck Jacket lined with mouton. The piece is the first World War II-era piece that Dehen 1920 released, Artaiz said. The company sources its wool from the northeastern United States, though Artaiz said it’s a goal to use Oregon wool.

Dehen 1920’s spring-summer and fall-winter lines appear in Berlin, New York—and soon, Paris—fashion weeks. Nathaniel Crissman, the art director and lead designer, said sometimes inspiration walks through the door, as it did when a motorcycle club member brought in the Dehen sweater his grandfather, also a member, once wore. “We’re now making sweaters for that motorcycle club,” Crissman said.

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game changer

Rough Waters

Astoria’s Rob and Tiffani Seitz fight for sustainable fishing written by Matt Wastradowski photography by Daniel Stark

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game changer

AT LEFT Rob and Tiffani Seitz aboard their fishing boat. ABOVE, FROM LEFT Rob Seitz helps customers at the South Bay Wild fish market and restaurant in Astoria. The restaurant serves up a variety of fresh seafood.

FOR ROB AND TIFFANI SEITZ, sustainable fishing isn’t just about employing best practices, working within quota systems or stopping overfishing. Those are all pieces of the larger puzzle— but for the husband-and-wife team behind South Bay Wild, a fish market and seafood restaurant in the heart of Astoria, sustainability is personal. It’s about preserving a way of life for themselves and their children. Rob Seitz, an Alaska native, moved to Astoria in 1992—just three years after the Exxon Valdez oil spill devastated the industry near Cook Inlet, where he fished. Fishery management practices were changing, giving Seitz a closeup view of the conflicts behind sustainable fishing—out were the Wild West days and in were quota systems, higher permit fees and new fishery management practices. “As we found out, the marine resource isn’t an inexhaustible resource,” he said. “We started having to limit the number of participants and started trying to protect what was out there, and we learned what it could actually sustain as far as harvesting.” Thus began a complicated relationship with the concept of sustainability—one that would inform the rest of his career. Seitz agreed with the need for sustainable fishing, but he felt like something often got lost in translation. “For a fisherman, sustainability means something different than it does for someone who works for The Nature Conservancy or the Environmental Defense Fund,” he said. “For a fisherman, it means there’s going to be fish out there for his kids

to harvest or their kids to harvest. It means protecting habitat and not wasting fish.” So the Seitzes, along with their children, moved to Morro Bay, California, in 2011 as part of a larger effort to help fishing communities impacted by those changing practices. There they formed South Bay Wild, through which the pair processed and sold their catches to local restaurants, at farmers markets, and via a brick-and-mortar outpost along the Embarcadero. South Bay Wild also shares a name with the family’s commercial trawler. The couple didn’t always agree with how the broader collective approached sustainability—Seitz thinks the project hurt the very anglers it was supposed to help—so they moved back to Astoria in 2017. But the idea behind South Bay Wild—the sustainable fishing, the direct-to-consumer processing—stuck with the couple. And in 2018, they opened a fish market and seafood restaurant of the same name in Astoria. The market sells fresh and smoked fish, as well as a full menu of seafood classics—much of it caught by Seitz himself. When he’s not helping Tiffani around the restaurant, Seitz still trawls for shrimp, crab and groundfish with his 18-year-old son, James. That relationship drives him to continue finding new approaches to sustainable fishing. “My kid works on the boat with me, so I’m very motivated to make it work for him,” he said. “Because, to me, sustainability is harvesting in a manner that’s going to allow him the same opportunities that I had.”

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Shop and Taste

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Holiday

Gift Guide written by 1859 Oregon’s Magazine staff photography by Whitney Whitehouse Every year, Statehood Media searches high and low for Oregon’s best gifts. We sample candy, play with toys, try on shirts. The result? Our gift guide, full of the perfect presents for everyone on your list, from the reclusive reader to the social animal. Bonus—all of these gifts are from Oregon companies doing business in your cities. Happy holidays from your team at Statehood Media.

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󶀱 Willow Ship block-printed tea towel

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󶀲 Oh, Little Rabbit citrus cloth napkins

󶀸 Yo Soy I Am Inspired and I Am Present candles

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󶀶 Bird Mafia bison plush and mountain plush www.birdmafia.com $36 and $40

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󶀳 Peaches The Studio porcelain planter

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󶀴 Marley’s Monsters washable sponge

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󶀹 Willamette Valley Wine Country Pendleton blanket www.willamettewines.com $299

󶀱󶀰 The Granite seed jars

www.workshop-thegranite.com $86 each

󶀱󶀱 Con Lo Common foraged botanical sachet www.conlocommon.com $12

󶀱󶀲 Megan Marie Myers Art 2020 wall art calendar www.etsy.com/shop/ meganmariemyersart $28

󶀱󶀰

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Homebody NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

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󶀱 Oh, Little Rabbit tote www.ohlittlerabbit.com $24

󶀲 The Night Swimmers by Peter Rock www.powells.com $25

󶀵 Mother Winter by Sophia Shalmiyev www.powells.com $25

󶀷 Wildwood Candle Co. in Forest Park and Wildwood www.wildwoodcandleco.com $26 each

󶀸 Walnut Studiolo travel dominoes set

www.walnutstudiolo.com $75

󶀹 The Dreamers by Karen Thompson Walker www.powells.com $27

󶀶 If, Then by Kate Hope Day www.powells.com $26

󶀳 This Never Happened by Liz Scott

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www.powells.com $20

󶀲

󶀴 Besotted by Melissa Duclos www.powells.com $16.99

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The

Bookworm

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󶀱󶀰 The Wicked Deep by Shea Ernshaw

󶀱󶀱 Orange World and Other Stories by Karen Russell

www.powells.com $11.95

www.powells.com $25.95

󶀱󶀲 I Am Yours by Reema Zaman

www.powells.com $24.99

󶀱󶀳 Survival Math by Mitchell S. Jackson www.powells.com $26

󶀱󶀴 Storiarts Anne of Green Gables book scarf www.storiarts.com $48

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󶀱 󶀱 Book picks courtesy of Powell’s Books

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󶀱 Saucesome Smoke Monster and Melange a Trois Poivres

www.saucesome.bigcartel.com $8 each

󶀴 The Joinery walnut live edge bread board

󶀵 Mama Lil’s asparagini 26.5-ounce 6-pack, and pickled peppers variety 12-ounce 6-pack

www.thejoinery.com $110

www.mamalils.com $54 and $52

󶀲 Cardamom Hills Trading Co. assorted chutney gift box

󶀶 Portland Bitters Project adventure kit

󶀹 Eliot’s Adult Nut Butter Oregon hazelnut chocolate spread

󶀷 Smith Tea Happy Holiday Trio

󶀱󶀰 Oregon White Truffle Oil 2-ounce bottle

󶀸 Eliot’s Adult Nut Butter in espresso nib

󶀱󶀱 Som 4-ounce sample pack cordials

www.portlandbittersproject.com $23

www.smithtea.com $49.99

www.cardamomhillstc.com $32

󶀳 Napa View wine bottle-shaped peppermill

www.eliotsnutbutters.com $8.99

www.napaview.com $44.99-$54.99

www.eliotsnutbutters.com $13.99

www.oregontruffleoil.com $14.99

www.somcordial.com $29.95 for five bottles

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󶀱󶀲 Vivacity Fine Spirits Turkish coffee liqueur and cranberry-flavored rum

The

www.vivacityspirits.com $34 each

󶀱󶀳 Portland Syrups 4-pack sampler

Entertainer

www.portlandsyrups.com $15

󶀱󶀴 Bull Run Distillery 11-Year American Pinot Noir Finished Whiskey

www.bullrundistillery.com $34.95

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The

Man's Man

󶀱 Dakine Cyclone roll top 32L backpack www.dakine.com $95

󶀲 Jo Rose Design leather skillet holder

www.tenderlovingempire.com $18

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󶀳 Dehen varsity jacket in oxford www.dehen1920.com $575

󶀴 Land & Kamp travel kit www.landandkamp.com $62

󶀵 Northwest Skillet Co. steak turner www.northwestskillet company.com $60

󶀶 Butch & Harry beard oil and mustache wax www.butchandharry.com $12 and $10

󶀷 Orox Leather Co. slim cardholder

󶀸 HopCity beer soaps in Sandalwood Red Ale, Fir Needle Breakside Wanderlust IPA and Breakside Salted Caramel Oatmeal Stout www.hopcitysoaps.com $7-8 each

www.oroxleather.com $50

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󶀱 Orox Leather Co. Merces wallet

www.oroxleather.com $175

󶀲 Dehen 1920 microstripe sweater www.dehen1920.com $285

󶀳 Branch & Barrel slim myrtle wood dropped diamond earrings and pendant necklace www.branchandbarrel designs.com $84 and $96

󶀴 Berlin Skin 5-piece miniatures set www.berlinskin.com $48

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The

Gal’s Gal

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󶀵 LeCol’s Soap Bar soap in Fig Rhapsody www.lecolssoapbar.com $5

󶀶 Neeta Naturals Neem Kiss hair & body oil and Ubtan face mask www.neetanaturals.com $31.90 and $19.95

󶀷 Glass+Metal 2-inch ring dish from Lady Faye Jewelry

www.ladyfayejewelry.com $58

󶀸 Palate Polish nail polish in nori, gold gumdrop and cherry pie www.palatepolish.com $12 each

󶀹 Shwood Canby acetate sunglasses www.shwoodshop.com $149

󶀱󶀰 Sunday Afternoons Tessa hat

www.sundayafternoons.com $56

󶀱󶀱 Cascade Armory Shevlin blanket scarf

www.cascadearmory.com $30

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The

Explorer

󶀱 Outdoor Ukulele Banjolele™ 󶀲 Rumpl Sherpa Puffy Blanket www.outdoorukulele.com $245-255

www.rumpl.com $129

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󶀳 Pistil Ridge Gloves

www.pistildesigns.com $50

󶀴 Smith 4D MAG goggles www.smithoptics.com $280

󶀵 Shwood Canby wood sunglasses

www.shwoodshop.com $149

󶀶 Free Range Equipment Canvas Series backpack, in Smith Rock by Sheila Dunn www.freerangeequipment.com $169

󶀷 WILD Quimby waxed jacket www.wildoutdoorapparel.com $348

󶀸 Danner Trail 2650 mid boots www.danner.com $180

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Stocking Stuffers 󶀱

Giving Back Maybe the perfect gift for the person who has everything is a donation to a nonprofit helping make your community a better place. Here are five of our favorites. Oregon CASA Network, statewide www.oregoncasanetwork.org Oregon Natural Desert Association, Bend www.onda.org Immigrant & Refugee Community Organization, Portland www.irco.org Oregon Cultural Trust, Salem www.culturaltrust.org Sisters of the Road Cafe, Portland www.sistersoftheroad.org

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󶀱 Only Child Chocolate bars in Best Fronds Forever, Hedgehog in the Fog and Rosemary and Ginger Walk Into A Bar

󶀲 20 Leagues Oregon woodsticker

󶀳 Moonstruck Willamette Valley Winery Collection

www.20leagues.com $5

www.moonstruckchocolate.com $35

󶀴 Portland Bee Balm in Oregon Mint

www.tenderlovingempire.com $3.75 each

www.onlychildchocolate.com $8 each

󶀵 20 Leagues Fancy Plants diorama kits in sasquatch and dinosaur www.20leagues.com $15 each

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GET YOUR

FIX

Sink your teeth into some of Oregon’s best comfort foods, then end the year in style with our delectable dinner picks written by Kevin Max & Sheila G. Miller

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W

inter is coming, and with it, a craving for celebrations and cozy comforts. Chunky knit sweaters, warm fires, maybe even a pumpkin spice latte or two—these pull at you just as much as the desire to brave the winter storms and toast to the end of one year and the start of the next. No matter your craving, we’ve got the answer here— low-lit restaurants filled with foods you ate in childhood? Try our comfort food selections. Spots for trying new tastes and making resolutions? Try our New Year’s Eve fancy dinner picks. It’s not a “best of” list, and it is by no means comprehensive—just a few places you won’t regret detouring for when it comes time to warm the cockles of your heart with your favorite flavors.

Gwen Shoemaker

Vali’s Alpine Restaurant in Joseph is famous for its doughnuts.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

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COMFORT

FOOD

GRILLED CHEESE & TOMATO SOUP

SOUTHERN EATS Oregon is a long way from the land of shrimp and grits, but it feels nearby when you’re at Screen Door on East Burnside in Portland. You’ll find the familiar flavors at breakfast—praline bacon, hush puppies, fried chicken and waffles...or lunch and dinner—pimiento cheese, okra, barbecue. In the grand tradition of Portland, it even has vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free options so everyone can be included. It’s truly a delightful place for stick-to-your-ribs food.

CLAM CHOWDER I’ll admit it—I started eating clam chowder at the age of 37 after my husband finally convinced me to take a single spoonful. I haven’t stopped since. You can find good, or at least passable, clam chowder in every town on the Oregon Coast. You can even get Mo’s chowder base at your local grocery store. But if you can get yourself to Gracie’s Sea Hag in Depoe Bay, you’ll be rewarded with a rich, creamy bowl filled with clams and other morsels. As a bonus, the ambience is classic Oregon Coast—wood-clad interior covered in tchotchkes. You’ll truly feel at home. 74          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Trask Bedortha

Every Oregonian knows that the proper grilled cheese is filled with the perfect mix of gooey Tillamook medium and sharp cheddar. Why not go to the source? The newly remodeled Tillamook Creamery has a huge cafeteriastyle dining area with cheese-based meals of all kinds, from mac and cheese to curds. But the piece de resistance is obviously the grilled cheese, which uses Portland French Bakery bread and is just the right amount of gooey and greasy. Add tomato soup on the side for dipping, and you’ll be steeled to face the rainy coastal weather.

Every Oregonian knows that the proper grilled cheese is filled with the perfect mix of gooey Tillamook medium and sharp cheddar.

Why not go to the source?

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

CHEESEBURGERS It’s easy to walk around Bend and decide everything is new—new buildings, new people, new restaurants. Sometimes the classics beat out the newbies, and Pilot Butte Drive In is the ultimate classic spot for cheeseburgers in Bend. The burgers, which come with a knife stabbed through the middle, are the kind of messy, old-school grillers that come to you in dreams. The restaurant is also known for its milkshakes and basically everything else. But what really seals the deal is the building, an old semi-circle space centered on a fireplace burning in the middle. Prepare to be stuffed.

FRIED CHICKEN Sometimes a dive bar is the only thing that will suffice, and in the case of Reel M Inn in Southeast Portland, all your dreams can come true. It must be the


FRENCH ONION SOUP The Vintage seems to really count on your need for comfort in rainy Eugene. The easiest way to sate that need might just be with French onion soup, one of the great winter snacks. This soup screams comfort food—salty broth swimming with onions, topped with a perfect crostini cap and layers of Swiss cheese. Hint: this place also has fondue, so you can really double down on your cheese consumption.

MAC & CHEESE

Started more than forty years ago by Hungarian immigrants, the restaurant is now run by their son and daughterin-law, but it still has the same feel.

Confession—I didn’t know macaroni and cheese had another form besides the orange Kraft version until I was older than I care to admit. Now I know, and I’ve done a lot of digging for the best mac and cheese options around the state. It doesn’t seem like something that should be so difficult—combine pasta with cheese, maybe a few other ingredients, and you’ve got a winner, right? But it’s the consistency—not too runny, not too thick—that makes a truly special dish. You’ll find that at Solstice Wood Fire Cafe in Hood River, where chefs blend gruyere with that old favorite, Tillamook cheddar, add penne and toasted bread crumbs and keep it simple. You can add a protein or a vegetable if you like, or just stick to what you know.

TURKEY DINNER

BISCUITS & GRAVY

It can be Thanksgiving every day if you hang out at Huber’s. This legendary restaurant in downtown Portland, founded in 1879, started giving out turkey sandwiches and coleslaw to anyone who bought a drink. Today, the restaurant occupies the same space it has since 1910, an awe-inspiring Art Deco-style bar with skylights and makes a mean, and famous, Spanish coffee. But as great as the restaurant and its history are, that’s nothing compared to the treat of eating roast young tom turkey with sage dressing, mashed potatoes and gravy, plus cranberry sauce—without the stress of your uncle spouting his political theories after three Manhattans at 2 p.m.

I recently read an argument that biscuits and gravy has become Portland’s signature dish. Thank god for small favors, huh? There are tons of options for this savory, hearty meal that probably should be savored no more than a few times a year. Pine State Biscuits quickly became a Portland staple (and apparently, now a Reno staple as well), and for good reason—its biscuits are that rare combination of buttery and flaky and not too heavy. Add a huge portion of sausage (or mushroom) gravy, and maybe a fried egg over easy, and you’ve got yourself a perfect winter breakfast. This is also a good spot for a chicken pot pie or a pecan pie.

age of the bar’s single fryer that gives this spot’s fried chicken (and jojos) the perfect crisp and tender flavor profile. Be prepared for a wait—like, two hours. But with enough Rainier tall boys and the knowledge that your cheap, delicious meal is eventually going to show up, it’s easy to sit back, relax and enjoy the ambience of a true institution.

HUNGARIAN FARE When I think of a meal made with loving care, it’s something like goulash or chicken paprikash—creamy, hearty, maybe heavily featuring dumplings. At Vali’s Alpine Restaurant in the Wallowas, it’s meals like this on the menu. The restaurant is open seasonally and reservations are a must. Each night features a single entree—goulash, paprikash and schnitzel, and on Fridays a rotating menu. Doughnuts are served on Saturday and Sunday mornings from 9 a.m. until 11 a.m. or until they sell out.

Gwen Shoemaker

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Pine State Biscuits has several locations in Portland for your biscuit and gravy needs. Tillamook Creamery’s renovated space features a cafeteria to get your cheese fix via grilled cheese, mac and cheeseburgers. Vali’s Alpine Restaurant in Joseph offers different Hungarian comfort fare, like chicken paprikash, each night.

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At the nexus

FANCY DINNERS

CLARKLEWIS

Clarklewis was early on the farmto-table movement and added an Italian twist to Northwest cuisine. The entrees are lamb, pork, fish and steak, with homemade pastas. Veggies and meats are from local farms and ranches. The wines are sourced from Italy and the Pacific Northwest. The food is artfully expressed in ways that are representative of Bruce Carey’s style. Carey’s other restaurants include Saucebox, Bluehour and 23Hoyt.

PORTLAND CITY GRILL Thirty floors above Portland, this distinguished restaurant is impressive from the moment you walk in. White tablecloths, recessed wooden ceilings and an energetic verve in the evenings, Portland City Grill has been a towering presence for nearly two decades. Reserve a window table and have the best views in town with a romantic candlelit dinner. Portland City Grill has a distinct advantage over its nearest competitors with its accommodating menu. From yellowtail rolls and other sushi starters to Northwest cioppino, center-cut filet mignon and honey fennel-rubbed rack of lamb, this 76          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

John Valls

of history, human achievement and elegant mountainside dining, Timberline Lodge’s Cascade Dining Room is a trifecta.

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Joel Palmer House in Dayton is a beautiful space with delicious three-course meals. Marché in Eugene is all about sophisticated French food. The Cascade Dining Room at Timberline Lodge features creative food in a classic setting. Larks Home Kitchen Cuisine in Ashland serves plates that are as elegant as they are tasty.

culinary institution is a Portland classic for many palates. Further, Portland City Grill has an impressive wine cellar and a large selection of wines by the glass, which is ideal for tasting new Oregon reds.

BOS TAURUS A newcomer to Bend’s downtown dining scene, Bos Taurus hits a rare note of blending steaks and elegance. In a small and stylish venue on Minnesota Avenue, Bos Taurus serves cuts of the finest steak from around the world, whether that is wagyu from Japan, porterhouse from Chicago or 16-day dry age Holdstein from California. Select your specialized steak knife sourced from different cultures. The vibe is upscale mountain town with a dash of city. Go full Bos with the Smoked Bos Manhattan, a cherrywood smokeinfused glass of goodness.

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

MARCHÉ Marché has a country French way about it. Founding chef Stephanie Pearl Kimmel has cultivated a Francophile foodie destination with Marché and its adjacent Provisions Market. In a college town best known for pizza and beer, Marché is a sophisticated island where diners will find petite aioli with vegetables and grilled lamb chops with ratatouille and olive tapenade. Or slide next door to Le Bar, a Parisian-style tavern that serves much the same menu.

LARKS HOME KITCHEN CUISINE When it comes to farm to table in Oregon’s greatest ratio of farms to tables, Larks at the elegant Ashland Springs Hotel in Ashland is an absolute destination. Second-generation Italian-American chef Franco Console


TINA’S RESTAURANT Dropped in the middle of a hundred Willamette Valley wineries, Tina’s opened in 1991 as the first fine-dining venue in the burgeoning wine-growing region. Think small and romantic with Oregon truffles in its truffled mushroom sauté and pan-seared sea scallops. Cozy, candlelit and best by the fireplace, Tina’s is elegant and romantic with an ambience to win over even the most dour critic.

PM Photos

CUVÉE RESTAURANT French bistro Cuvée is a unique opportunity to taste cuisine from Alsace, France. Chef and owner Gilbert Henry is a native of Alsace and learned his love of cooking from his mother, Cécile. Filet mignon de porc a l’Alsacienne, Coquilles St. Jacques and steak frites are manifestations of Henry’s French heritage on the menu. You can’t go wrong, either with the food on the menu or the drive out to the area surrounded by Oregon’s top wineries.

THE IRISH TABLE offers a menu that nicely melds Italian, Northwest and Southern Oregon styles. House ricotta gnocchi, Southern fried chicken breast and tomato leaf capellini are just a few items that will tempt you. A nice addition is a wine list that includes amazing Southern Oregon wines from Rogue Valley.

JOEL PALMER HOUSE Housed in the historic Joel Palmer House in Dayton, fourth-generation restaurateur Christopher Czarnecki explores his love of wild mushrooms. For example, entrees in the three-course meals share a common theme—beef stroganoff with wild mushrooms, angel hair pasta with Dungeness crab and oyster mushrooms in a mushroom cream sauce and filet mignon on a mushroom duxelle. The wine cellar is a 600-bottle salute to Oregon viticulture.

Soups, soda bread and fresh fish are the main elements of The Irish Table. It gets a bit fancier with Dungeness crab toast and Irish stew with colcannon and vegetarian shepherd’s pie. The Irish Table is a fine-dining port in a coastal storm. It also made shrew food critic Gerry Frank’s vaunted top ten Oregon restaurants.

CASCADE DINING ROOM AT TIMBERLINE LODGE At the nexus of history, human achievement and elegant mountainside dining, Timberline Lodge’s Cascade Dining Room is a trifecta. Inside the vaulted classic American lodge, the dining room’s menu is a creative curation of items such as Northwest lamb osso bucco, Danish pork collar and semmelknoedel. Book a weekend at the lodge, and ski and eat to your heart’s content while soaking in the history behind it all.

ON THE MENU RESTAURANT DIRECTORY

Bos Taurus Bend 163 NW Minnesota Ave. 541.241.2735 www.bostaurus steak.com Cascade Dining Room at Timberline Lodge Government Camp 27500 E. Timberline Highway 503.272.3104 www.timberline lodge.com Clarklewis Portland 1001 SE Water Ave. 503.235.2294 www.clarklewis.com Cuvée Restaurant Carlton 214 W. Main St. 503.852.6555 www.cuveedining.com Gracie’s Sea Hag Depoe Bay 58 US Highway 101 541.765.2734 www.theseahag.com

Pilot Butte Drive In Bend 917 NE Greenwood Ave. 541.382.2972 www.facebook.com/ pilotbuttedriveins Pine State Biscuits Portland 2204 NE Alberta St. 503.477.6605 www.pinestate biscuits.com Portland City Grill Portland 111 SW 5th Ave. 503.450.0030 www.portland citygrill.com Reel M Inn Portland 2430 SE Division St. 503.231.3880 Screen Door Portland 2337 E. Burnside St. 503.542.0880 www.screendoor restaurant.com

Huber’s Portland 411 SW Third Ave. 503.228.5686 www.hubers.com

Solstice Wood Fire Cafe Hood River 501 Portway Ave. 541.436.0800 www.solsticewoodfire cafe.com

The Irish Table Cannon Beach 1235 S. Hemlock St. 503.436.0708 www.theirishtable.com

Tillamook Creamery Tillamook 4165 N. Highway 101 503.815.1300 www.tillamook.com

Joel Palmer House Dayton 600 Ferry St. 503.864.2995 www.joelpalmer house.com

Tina’s Restaurant Dundee 760 Highway 99W 503.538.8880 www.tinasdindee.com

Larks Home Kitchen Cuisine Ashland 212 E. Main St. 888.795.4545 www.ashlandsprings hotel.com Marché Eugene 296 E. Fifth Ave. 541.342.3612 www.marche restaurant.com

Vali’s Alpine Restaurant Joseph 59811 Wallowa Lake Highway 541.432.5691 www.valisrestaurant.com The Vintage Eugene 837 Lincoln St. 541.349.9181 www.eugenevintage.com

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Sea to Table

written and photographed by Emily Joan Greene

SUSTAINABILITY IS THE name of the game at Erizo, a new seafood restaurant run by Jacob Harth and partners Nick Van Eck (St. Jack) and Nate Tilden (Olympia Provisions). With so many conversations happening about sustainability right now, Harth and his team have proven they’re committed—foraging most of their ingredients themselves, using invasive aquatic species and incorporating bycatch. The menu is varied and can include as many as ten different kinds of seaweed, bay clams, purple sea urchin, rock crabs, limpets, sea snails, and gooseneck barnacles, all foraged weekly by Harth and Van Eck along the Oregon Coast. While the sourcing requires a great deal of effort, the dishes remain minimal and allow the ingredients to shine through. The twenty-course, $125 dinner is one of the most unique dining experiences in Portland. 78          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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FROM LEFT Jacob Harth pulls up seaweed from Tillamook Bay to use on the menu at Erizo. A small starfish embellishes a sea snail shell.


CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT A recent foraging trip yielded bounty such as sea snails, limpets and seaweed. Harth gathers sea snails. Harth and fellow chef-business partner Nick Van Eck pull seaweed from Tillamook Bay. When gathering seaweed from rocks, they are careful to leave a small amount on the rock to allow regrowth. Harth looks under rocks for limpets, which suction themselves to rocky surfaces. Harth and Van Eck collect seaweed.

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FROM LEFT A printed menu at Erizo, where the offerings change week by week depending on foraging and bycatch. Harth and Van Eck in their restaurant, Erizo, in Portland.

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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 86 ADVENTURE 88 LODGING 92 TRIP PLANNER 94 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 100

pg. 88 Olympian Nick Symmonds shares his favorite trails.


Travel Spotlight

The Buzz of Salem Flying Bee Ranch sells the sweet taste of Oregon written by Jesslyn Gillespie THERE ARE FEW businesses more striped with Oregon values than Flying Bee Ranch. This family farm in Salem runs on good heart, good work ethic and really good raw honey. The business began in 1999 with a few honeybee colonies. Since then, three generations of experience and education—including a graduate of Oregon State University Extension Service’s master beekeeper program—have expanded the enterprise into hundreds of sustainably maintained hives. The bees produce both traditional and innovative flavors. Try the blue-ribbon blueberry or the robust “health nut” buckwheat, perfect with a hint of lemon. You can find Flying Bee Ranch at the Salem Saturday Market from April to October. Or satisfy your sweet tooth now with a visit to its online store or new Honey Tasting Room, open year-round from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesday to Saturday. Shop for bee edibles and gifts like honeycomb, pollen and propolis. No corn syrup here.

Flying Bee Ranch maintains hundreds of hives, and makes great honey, too.

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CELEBRATE THE HOLIDAYS IN ROCK AWAY BEACH

Holiday lights parade and tree lighting ceremony on Nov. 29

Holiday sale at Rockaway Beach’s unique shops

Candy Cane Express with Santa on Oregon Coast Scenic Railroad from Nov. 30 to Dec. 22

Feast on local seafood Whale watching season

Plan Your Trip at VisitRockawayBeach.org


adventure

Off the Beaten Path Some of Oregon’s best runners share favorite trails written by Charles Butler

WITH TRACKTOWN USA, Nike, and the ever-lingering spirit of Steve “Pre” Prefontaine, Oregon can easily lay claim to the title of America’s running mecca. And its reputation will only get more burnished in the coming years, when Eugene hosts not only another U.S. Olympic track and field trials (in 2020) but also the World Championships (in 2021) at the reimagined Hayward Field. But even with such bona fides, Oregon still has a few running secrets, especially when it comes to trails and locales. That is, until now. We went to some of the state’s leading running experts—including an Olympian and two world-class ultrarunners—to get the dirt on the trails and loops they never tire of, runs few outside their circles know about and yet are still suited for the weekend runner. So, while the widely popular Leif Erikson Trail in Portland and Pre’s Trail in Eugene got mentions, our experts dug deeper to divulge the gems that keep them juiced. These runs will do the same for you.

EUGENE-AREA RUNS

Fun Run Nick Symmonds made two U.S. Olympic teams, in 2008 and 2012, before later trying the marathon. Part of his training recipe—a long run built by splicing 6 miles of Eugene’s famed Pre’s Trail with 2 miles of the less-traveled yet sensesstoking Dorris Ranch Loop located in nearby Springfield. Hazelnut orchards. Views of the Willamette River. Flat, soft terrain. Dorris Ranch delivers all that, and without the running crowds that collect at Pre’s. “It is very peaceful back there,” Symmonds said of the scene at Dorris Ranch, located not far from the energy-gum company he now operates. “When you run on Pre, it is pretty exposed. You are getting blasted by the sun and wind and the rain.” Not so at Dorris, where the hazelnuts provide protection year-round. As Symmonds put it, “Dorris is amazing.” AT RIGHT Nick Symmonds, an Olympian and Eugene resident, knows all the best runs in the region. (photo: Matt Larson/Brooks Running)

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So book a family getaway here in Seaside, Oregon this year. The antique malls are full of one-of-a-kind, I-thinkthey’ll-actually-love-that gifts. The carousel is decked out in all its holiday cheer. The Butterfield Cottage is serving up Gingerbread Tea. And if you haven’t experienced the Parade of Lights, well, that needs to change before the new year.

everyone needs a new holiday tradition

seasideOR.com

Walla Walla Steak Co.

EXECUTION: SEASIDE HOLIDAY TRADITION 1/2 PAGE HORIZONTAL FILE NAME: seaside_1859_8.25x5.06_holiday_tradition_2019.indd PUB: 1859 FINAL TRIM SIZE: 8.25" wide x 5.06" tall

Experience laid-back luxury in Walla Walla. From savoring world-class wine, craft cocktails, and awardwinning restaurants to enjoying dry powder snow and tree skiing in a family-friendly atmosphere, you can find it all in the Walla Walla Valley.

Plan your next adventure at WallaWalla.org

Ski Bluewood

Fly from Walla Walla and check your first case of wine for free! Learn more at TasteAndTote.com


HANNAH GRUBB

Let’s Push It When Symmonds wants to feed his appetite for more rugged terrain, he’ll head east for an hour or so to the trails along the McKenzie River and to what he calls “one of the most awesome rivers around.” Launching from McKenzie Bridge, he’ll do out-and-backs of 5 to 6 miles, grabbing views of Blue Pool, Sahalie Falls and other gems. Beauty aside, the trails can be tricky in spots. Symmonds said he nearly rolled an ankle on a river run just before the 2012 U.S. Olympic track trials. But these days, with high-stakes racing no longer a priority, he finds the McKenzie the perfect spot to combine two passions: After a run he’s known to cool off with some trout fishing.

Willamalane Park and Recreation District

The Runners

PORTLAND-AREA RUNS

Let’s Push It

TORSTEN HEYCKE

Rip City? With its proximity to Nike headquarters and home to many Olympians and Olympic hopefuls, Portland could just as easily be called Run City. On a typical day, you might glimpse many of the stars on the Leif Erikson Trail in Forest Park. But when former University of Texas runner Hannah Grubb moved to town a few years ago, she found herself enticed by a Forest Park alternative—the woodsy 30-mile-long Wildwood Trail. “It is a little more adventurous, more uphill-downhill,” Grubb, who now works at Nike, said of Wildwood. She also likes that Wildwood has markers every quarter mile, which is “good when your GPS may not be working.” Another draw: the many tributary trails that splinter off Wildwood, providing options for days when she wants to go long or really long. One of Grubb’s favorite runs includes a hard, 3-mile uphill that leads to the historic Pittock Mansion and incredible views of the city. “It’s a run to do when you have visitors who want to sightsee, too,” she said.

Fun Run STEPHANIE VIOLETT (photos, from top: Michael Scott; Torsten Heycke; Tyler Roemer

When she doesn’t have time for a Wildwood run, Grubb stays close to her downtown Portland home. Grubb knew about

urban running from her days in Austin, Texas, but nothing prepared her for the sights along what has become a favorite dash: the paved roads along the Willamette River. An early morning runner, Grubb will often go south along the west bank before zipping over the car-free Tilikum Crossing Bridge and returning up the eastside to the Steel Bridge (a 4.2-mile loop). In the fall, she’ll change directions, going north for 2 miles to the Fremont Bridge. That’s where she’ll turn and make her way home—but not before grabbing a view of an eclectic scene that features Portland’s skyline, Mount Hood, and, if she’s lucky, a sight even a new Oregonian can appreciate. “It’s usually quiet in the morning, so it is just you out there with jumping salmon,” Grubb said. “I make sure I get up early enough to see that. You have to be up just as the sun is rising.” ASHLAND-AREA RUNS

Fun Run Running is often intended to be an escape from reality. If that’s the goal, then rush to Ashland, where running is true fantasy. Starting near the top of Lithia Park there’s a 9.1-mile “Lewis Carroll” theme run that provides a mix of everything: relatively


Bend Park and Recreation District

adventure

FROM LEFT Dorris Ranch Loop in Springfield is shady and scenic. Shevlin Park in Bend has interesting terrain and gorgeous views.

easy terrain, a wild mix of tree types, soaring views … and whimsy. The run got its name nearly two decades ago when local runners and hikers discovered a stretch of madrone that was reminiscent of passing through a tunnel in Alice in Wonderland. Over time the Ashland Woodlands & Trails Association added more trails, and more fantasy. Today, the Lewis Carroll is composed of trails with such names as Bandersnatch, Jubjub, Lower Red Queen, Snark and Caterpillar. You’ll pass through oaks, pines and ponderosa (and wildflowers come May and June). Eventually, after a climb of 2,000 feet or so to Lewis Loops, you come to a true fantasy: views of Mount Ashland and Mount McLoughlin. For Torsten Heycke, head of the Ashland Woodlands & Trails Association, which maintains the trails, the Lewis Carroll loop is “like mental floss. I get out there and it sort of cleanses the palate.”

Let’s Push It When he’s not maintaining Lewis Carroll, Heycke is keeping himself in shape. He’s an ultrarunner who has raced such killers as the 100-miler Western States Endurance Run. One of his ideal training sites: Split Rock Trail, which starts about 3.5 miles from the Mount Ashland Ski Lodge.

In many ways, according to Heycke, Split Rock is a primitive run. Be prepared for a stiff climb, narrow stretches (12 inches in places), spots where your hands get as much work as your feet, and, yes, snow in certain months. But the effort comes with rewards, including dramatic views of Mount Shasta and the Siskiyou Crest, as well as wildflowers come summer. “Yellows, reds, purples, pinks—just a flurry,” Heycke said. He said Split Rock may not be for everyone, but it’s ideal for him. “I like the views, and I like being up high. That is what excites me. It is also a pedestrian-only trail. I don’t have to compete with mountain bikes and horses.” BEND-AREA RUNS

Let’s Push It “I love climbing mountains,” Stephanie Violett said. She also likes going long distances. Since moving to Bend eleven years ago, she has used the town and its environs as training grounds for her ultrarunning career. One run-climb that never fails to get her on pace is Green Lakes trail located a few miles from Mount Bachelor. Prepare to pant, especially if you’re coming from sea level. The 3-mile ascent includes close to 1,200 feet of elevation gain, and at points along the way, Violett said, your run could easily turn into

a hike. But she advises to press on. At the top await Alpine lakes—plus views of the Sisters, Bachelor and Broken Top. “Green Lakes is amazingly beautiful,” Violett said. She cautions that this run is restricted to the summer and early fall, when the snow has melted. Then, pack plenty of water and snacks, because “it’s a beautiful spot for picnic.” And for dessert? A quick descent.

Fun Run Runners visiting Bend may decide to rush up Pilot Butte. Nothing wrong with tackling the town landmark, especially if you’re pressed for time. But Violett suggested heading to one of her favorite nearby runs: the trails in Shevlin Park. Over the years, she has run many a loop there with her two dogs, the three often stopping to cool off along Tumalo Creek midway through a 7-mile loop. The run also comes with tireless views of Aspens—“a wall of color” in the fall, she said—along with some technical, rocky spots that will give even the seasoned runner a challenge. Still, when she needs a break from all of her climbs, Shevlin’s terrain provides an ideal change. “It’s a nice break for your legs and from the pounding,” she said, “and you still get the miles and the pace.”

NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

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ROOMS

For the best views of the verdant valley surrounding the farm, book the second-floor Pinot Noir suite. All five suites have jacuzzi tubs, radiant floor heating, farm views, and share a downstairs parlor with morning Keurig coffee and tea service. Bundle up and take your cup of Portlandbased Smith Tea’s Lord Bergamot outside on the porch and watch the mist rising over the vineyards.

Every morning’s like Christmas thanks to chef and forager Eric Bartle’s bountiful country breakfasts—dig into plates of homemade buttermilk biscuits with raspberry hibiscus preserves and cherrywood-smoked ham loin, omelets heaped with vegetables from the garden (there’s a good chance you’ll pass Bartle plucking fresh greens and peppers on your way to the dining room), and sturdy stacks of pancakes made with wild-foraged huckleberries. Breakfast is held in the homey open kitchen beneath the ranch house, so don’t be surprised if a nosy hen ambles in mid-pancake.

DINING

Plan on a sparkling wine apéritif at Rob and Maria Stuart’s lovely little downtown McMinnville wine bar, R. Stuart & Co., before tucking into Netarts Bay oysters and slow-braised beef cheek with Oregon black truffles at simple, elegant Thistle, or crisp Caesar salads and plates of burrata-topped pasta at local hangout Nick’s Italian Cafe. If you’ve been winery hopping in Newberg, grab bowls of bouillabaisse at The Newbergundian Bistro, escargot and chicken-fried trout at cozy Recipe Neighborhood Kitchen, or go big and book James Beard Award semifinalist The Painted Lady.

AMENITIES

Not too many bed and breakfasts can boast a winery and tasting room on the premises (open Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.), so take advantage of it; if you’ve been tasting around the valley all day, make this your last stop, settle into a plush velvet armchair, and savor a bottle of 2012 Abbey Road Farm pinot noir.

Nick Grier Photography

FEATURES

Carlton’s Abbey Road Farm combines hospitality and farm life.

Lodging

Abbey Road Farm written by Jen Stevenson WANDERING THROUGH the idyllic Willamette Valley, it’s easy to fantasize about holing up on a sweet little farm populated by lazy barn cats and strutting hens, tending a vast garden overflowing with seasonal flora and fauna by day, sipping wine by the fire pit under the stars by night. Add a tasting room steps from the goat barn, a pot belly stove-warmed den overlooking golden hills covered in rolling vines, and a few stout silver grain silos transformed into cozy suites, and you’ve got Abbey Road Farm, just the spot to live the wine country life for a few nights, sans chores. About five minutes east of charming Carlton, owners Daniel and Sandi Wilkens’ beautiful 82-acre property is a working farm and vineyard, bed and breakfast, winery, tasting room and event space all in one. The Wilkens, who own farm-to-table restaurant Quaintrelle in Portland, have implemented organic, sustainable practices around the vineyard and gardens, while local winemaker James Rahn holds the winery reins, producing both Abbey Road Farm wines and his own, all of which can be sipped in the rustic-chic tasting room overlooking the valley. After a peaceful night’s sleep and an extraordinary farm breakfast prepared by innkeepers and master foragers Eric Bartle and Sara Kundelius, it’s time to head out into the valley and visit a few of the excellent neighboring wineries—Lemelson Vineyards, Laurel Ridge and Dominio IV are right down the way and open daily, while the farm’s own tasting room is a short stroll from your silo suite. 10501 NE ABBEY RD CARLTON www.abbeyroadfarm.com


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trip planner

The Dalles has been an important river city for thousands of years.

Doing It Big in The Dalles

This Columbia Gorge city has really upped its cool factor written by Tracy Ellen Beard

NESTLED AT THE eastern end of the Columbia River Gorge National Scenic Area, The Dalles sits in a region rich in history, affords breathtaking scenery and is the perfect place for epic outdoor adventures. Located along a profitable waterway for more than 10,000 years, and one of the oldest inhabited areas in the Western Hemisphere, The Dalles has always been a desirable destination. The Lewis and Clark Expedition Corps of Discovery camped at Rock Fort Camp (now The Dalles) October 25-28, 1805, putting this spot on the map for future explorers. The population grew from the early 1840s, when pioneers began crossing the Oregon Trail, through 1868, the end of the Gold Rush in Wasco County. Thousands of people settled in The Dalles, but when gold fever died down in 1870, the population dropped to fewer than 3,500 in the county. 94          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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Today, agricultural businesses, wineries, breweries and restaurants drive the local economy, and the area continues to be a mecca for outdoor adventures. Cyclists and mountain bikers flock the area, hikers and rock climbers pepper the hillsides, and the Columbia River boasts every water sport imaginable. If your journey begins south of The Dalles, consider adding a night to your trip at the Balch Hotel in Dufur. Upon opening in 1908, the hotel offered hot water, steam heat and electric lights to travelers arriving on the Great Southern Railroad and by stagecoach on the Oregon Trail. Now, the hotel offers exceptional hospitality, cozy indoor and outdoor spaces, on-site spa treatments, delicious light fare and a dinner special. Enjoy the views of Mount Hood while sipping beer and wine, available for tasting.


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trip planner

Visit one of the oldest history museums in Oregon, the Fort Dalles Museum. The museum resides in the former officer’s quarters of one of the only remaining buildings from the 1856 Fort Dalles military compound. Day ART • HISTORY • POTSTICKERS Begin your trip to The Dalles at Kainos Coffee. Try the avocado toast topped with a poached egg, alongside a cappuccino. Two childhood friends started the business after roasting coffee over their fireplace with a homemade roaster. The Dalles Dam Visitor Center focuses on the area’s history and explains the reason for the dam’s construction and its unfortunate effects on Celilo Falls. One exhibit educates guests on the pros and cons of the dam, one of the ten largest hydropower dams in the United States. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers built the dam, completing it in 1957, and continues to operate it today. The dam’s construction resulted in the destruction of the horseshoe-shaped Celilo Falls, along with two nearby ancient Indian villages. Tribes that fished and traded there for thousands of years took a heavy blow to their livelihood. The dam provides the Pacific Northwest with a reliable water source for hydropower, navigation, recreation, fish passage, irrigation and flood mitigation. Stop for lunch at Montira’s Thai Cuisine and order the appetizer sampler platter. Each bite is tasty, from the crispy spring rolls to the mouthwatering potstickers. Swing by SweetHeart Bake Shop and pick up a treat. Owners Amiee and Jason Blevins make cakes, pies and cookies including interesting flavors of macarons such as caramel popcorn and mint Oreo. Visit one of the oldest history museums in Oregon, the Fort Dalles Museum. The museum resides in the former officer’s quarters of one of the only remaining buildings from the 1856 Fort Dalles military compound. It is filled with pioneer and military artifacts, and the outbuildings store a collection of antique wagons. Meander around downtown and admire the murals. Artists recreate scenes from historic daily life—of early Native 96          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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LEFT A Monte Cristo from Petite Provence. AT RIGHT, FROM TOP Fort Dalles Museum has pioneer artifacts and antique wagons. Visit the National Neon Sign Museum to learn about the signs’ evolution. The Dalles Dam Visitor Center explains its role in Oregon. Murals abound in the downtown.

Americans fishing and trading, settlers farming, and pioneers scouting out new territory. There are a few new murals with vibrantly colored scenes of wildlife. City planners focus on giving historic buildings new purpose and life through other forms of commerce. The old icehouse and mint now function as popular pubs. In 1876, the Baldwin brothers, James and John, opened the Baldwin Saloon. Over the years it served as a steamboat navigation office and a coffin storage site. Today, the restaurant serves drinks and delicious food prepared from scratch. The Celilo Inn overlooks the Dalles Dam and the scenic Columbia River Gorge. The Inn recently received a complete renovation. Many of the spacious rooms offer magnificent views of the river. Pick up a Columbia Gorge Passport that provides holders free tastings at several local wineries.


trip planner

Day NEON • WINE • R&R Petite Provence in the Gorge has incredible breakfasts, brunches and lunches. The cream cheese crêpes with fresh berries and almandine flambé with whipped cream are excellent choices. Be sure to take a French pastry with you for the road. In August 2018, David Benko opened the National Neon Sign Museum, where visitors discover the evolution of the electric sign. Benko describes the simplicity of the original signs, from only one color and one word through the progression of the signs that include the addition of more words per sign and various colors. The museum has one of the largest collections of neon storefront signs NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

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THE DALLES, OREGON

trip planner

EAT Kainos Coffee www.kainoscoffee.com Montira’s Thai Cuisine www.facebook.com Sweetheart Bake Shop www.sweetheartbakeshop.com The Baldwin Saloon www.baldwinsaloon.com Petite Provence in the Gorge www.provencepdx.com Last Stop Saloon www.laststopsaloon.com Rivertap Pub www.rivertap.com

STAY The Balch Hotel www.balchhotel.com Celilo Inn www.celiloinn.com/hotels-the-dalles R & R Guest House www.randrguesthouse.net

PLAY Fort Dalles Museum www.fortdallesmuseum.org National Neon Sign Museum www.nationalneonsignmuseum.org OutCatching www.outcatching.com Columbia Gorge Discovery Center & Museum www.gorgediscovery.org

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The Columbia Gorge Discovery Center explains the natural history of the region.

in the world and an enormous array of related artifacts. Fortify yourself with the chicken sandwich at the Last Stop Saloon and then imbibe at local wineries. Tierra de Lobos Winery rests on the riverbank where Adolfo Mollinedo and his business partner opened more than a year ago. The two grow their grapes, harvest and bottle everything themselves. The winery features several Spanish wine varietals, including a magnificent sweet red wine named Tinto Dulce, which Mollinedo said makes a great sangria. The Sunshine Mill serves a variety of wines and is home to the Quenett and Copa Di Vino wineries. The Sunshine Biscuit Company, maker of the Cheez-It, once owned the building. James and Molly Martin now own the Sunshine Mill. James was a two-time guest on “Shark Tank” where he turned down funding both times for the Copa Di Vino single-serve wine by the glass. Through his personal marketing efforts, he has created success without the use of outside funds. Book a stay at R & R Guesthouse, a private turn-of-the-century home owned by Julie and Kevin Ryan. This stunning home features beautiful antiques with modern amenities. The backyard has a pool, a huge jetted tub with a massage bed and NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

gorgeous gardens. Breakfasts are delicious and locally sourced. Grab dinner at Clock Tower Ales, which serves casual fare and more than thirty beers, or at Rivertap Pub, which creates something new each season. Rivertap offers spectacular cocktails and music in the evening.

Day OUTDOOR DISCOVERIES Walk along the ADA-accessible paved 10mile Riverfront Trail, bike the country roads, mountain bike one of the local hills or try your hand at fishing—a year-round activity with either bass, salmon or sturgeon always in season. Fish from the banks or venture out on a guided trip with Darrell Axtell at OutCatching. Axtell offers numerous trip options. Challenge yourself on one of his catch-and-release monster sturgeon trips. It is exhilarating to reel in one of these prehistoric beasts, ranging from 7 to 12 feet long. If fishing isn’t your thing, tour the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center, with its interactive display showcasing the natural and cultural history of the area from the Ice Age through the Lewis and Clark expedition. Don’t leave without seeing the outside exhibit featuring the local wildlife.


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northwest destination

Winter Wonderland

McCall is more than just a summer stronghold written by Kevin Max

MANY PEOPLE TAKE McCall as a summer fling—paddleboards, water skiing and beach volleyball. They are half right. For fall and winter explorers, McCall is a playground and a cozy respite from everyday stress. McCall, once a brothel-and-booze warren of the early 1900s, underwent a transformation that put four-season recreation at the fore.

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Brundage Mountain Resort’s high base leads to a long ski season.


MCCALL, IDAHO

northwest destination

EAT McCall Brewing Company www.mccallbrew.com Salmon River Brewery www.salmonriverbrewery.com Rupert’s at Hotel McCall www.rupertsathotelmccall.com The Narrows Steakhouse at Shore Lodge www.shorelodge.com/dining/ the-narrows-steakhouse

STAY Shore Lodge www.shorelodge.com Best Western Plus www.bestwestern.com

Burgdorf Hot Springs is a rustic outpost accessible by snowmobile in winter.

The small town on the edge of Payette National Forest curves around the southern bank of Payette Lake, 100 miles north of the bustle of Boise. To the northwest of McCall is Brundage Mountain Ski Resort, known for its high base, deep snow, a nearly 2,000-foot vertical drop, horse-drawn sleigh rides and elegant four-course dinners at the secluded Bear’s Den cabin. For those who prefer skinnier skis, McCall has fantastic groomed nordic trails nearby. Little Bear Basin, Ponderosa State Park and Jug Mountain Ranch are just a few areas where novice to novel skiers can kick and glide through amazing outdoor scenes. Due to its extensive trail network, McCall is also a mecca for fat biking and snowshoeing. Meadow Marsh in Ponderosa State Park is scenic and close. The park has 3.4 miles of snowshoe trails and another 12 miles groomed for nordic skiing. McCall’s winter appeal also comes from its warm, cozy retreats at the end of the day. Burgdorf Hot Springs is a bucket list destination. In winter, the resort is accessible only by snowmobile and has fifteen rustic cabins with wood stoves, firewood and spare furnishings. Both Cheap Thrills and CM Backcountry Rentals offer daily snowmobile rentals, but be prepared to spend $200 for the machine. On the more luxurious scale, The Cove, An Authentic McCall Spa and its immersion

Brundage Bungalows www.brundagebungalows.com

pools are the perfect way to shake off the cold. Nothing is more relaxing than soaking in the heated outdoor pool and watching snow as it falls silently into the water. Pop over to the excellent Narrows Steakhouse for a surf-and-turf dinner overlooking the lake. No town is civilized without a good local brewery … or two. McCall Brewing Company offers a panorama of McCall and Payette Lake. It has a more local feel than being down in the harbor with map-in-hand tourists. The beer, burgers and lettuce wraps are all top notch. Salmon River Brewery has a wood stove and an outdoor firepit to bring warmth an ambience to its lakeside views. But if we’re talking Old World charm with out-of-this-world views, Rupert’s at Hotel McCall is the dining venue. For small-town McCall, Rupert’s has a more cosmopolitan perspective, with duck confit crêpes, Himalayan momos and Basque croquetas. The McCall Winter Carnival is a colossal party in the cold. Started in the 1920s as the Payette Lake Winter Games, the carnival has live music and food, ice sculptures, Mardi Gras-like parades, a comedy show and a polar plunge. From January 24 to February 2, thousands of people come out of their cozy places to celebrate in the outdoors. Nothing could represent McCall better. NOVEMBER | DECEMBER 2019

Hotel McCall www.hotelmccall.com

PLAY Brundage Mountain Ski Resort www.brundage.com Burgdorf Hot Springs www.burgdorfhotsprings.com Ponderosa State Park www.parksandrecreation. idaho.gov/parks/ponderosa Bear Basin Nordic Center www.facebook.com/bearbasin The Cove, An Authentic McCall Spa www.thecovemccall.com

The Narrows Steakhouse at Shore Lodge wows with its Tomahawk Chop.

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1859 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.

Astoria Seaside

Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham

Pendleton

The Dalles La Grande

Maupin Government Camp

Pacific City Lincoln City

Baker City

Salem Newport

Madras

Albany Corvallis

Prineville

John Day

Redmond

Sisters Florence

Joseph

Ontario

Bend

Eugene Springfield

Sunriver Burns

Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon

Roseburg

Grants Pass Brookings

Jacksonville

Paisley

Medford Ashland

Klamath Falls

Lakeview

Live

Think

Explore

14 Shore Acres State Park

44 Ginew

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Flying Bee Ranch

22 Initiative Brewing

48 Oregon Convention Center

88

Lewis Carroll runs

23 Fika Sisters Coffeehouse

50 Order of the Most Holy Savior

92

Abbey Road Farm

24 ROE Outfitters

52 Dehen 1920

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National Neon Sign Museum

36 Beer miler

54 South Bay Wild

100 McCall, Idaho

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Until Next Time

Dinner Parties, Eastern Oregon-Style written and photographed by Joni Kabana

“CAN WE EAT at 2 p.m.? I don’t want to hit anything on our way over.” When I heard these words, I knew I was in for some new dining adventures after moving to a remote cabin in Eastern Oregon. I had heard about true farm-to-table dinners that occur out this way (held outdoors on scenic ranches where both the meat and vegetables are harvested) and had attended a couple of ranch music concerts where we all brought food, drink, chairs and our own expression of merriment. Nothing prepared me for the sensory overload I experienced while attending that first outdoor lamb roast. The gatherings are pretty much a standard potluck protocol—bring your own side dish and favorite beverage—but what was startling was the reverence for the animal butchered that day. Ceremonial and with compassion, the lamb was selected, felled and butchered with deep gratitude and honor, and then cooked whole over an open fire. The hide was displayed near our tables, reminding us how our food got to our plates. And no part of the animal was wasted. After a hard day’s work, the camaraderie at these events is unparalleled. Smiles and hugs, back slaps and teasing commence, with no room for polite and meaningless chit chat. Topics range from local animal predator sightings to politics to climate issues to creative ideas for enhancing the many small cottage businesses found in this region—and some deeply engaging storytelling.

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With little planning except an impromptu nod to time and place, the meal is rounded out with delectable culinary delights such as glazed pumpkin, spiced corn, sourdough bread, leaping greenery salads and roasted vegetables. And divine desserts. Often, someone declares that we should invite more people from the west side of the Cascades so we can trade recipes and ideas. “Would they come?” many ask. “Is this something they would be interested in?” I reckon if they left before 9 a.m. they could reach us by 2 p.m. and be home in time to watch an evening movie. Or better yet, they could linger, perhaps another day, and catch breakfast the next morning, featuring Eastern Oregon free range sage-fed chicken eggs.


Every Moment Covered

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Oregon’s Magazine

ON E CO MPA N Y T WO ICO N IC B R A N DS

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D E S T I N AT I O N

ALBANY


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For history and architecture buffs, the newly restored 206 1⁄2 Historic Hotel provides an interesting step into Albany’s downtown roots. Its proximity to restaurants, shops, coffee houses and bakeries, and the Albany Historic Carousel & Museum make it an explorer’s dream.

The holidays can be exhausting. But the world will appear much brighter after a little pampering, thanks to our local hoteliers! Sink into a comfy oversized chair next to a crackling fire in a festive lobby. Enjoy a complimentary hot breakfast, free WiFi, free parking, fluffy pillows and hot coffee. From November to January, the Phoenix Inn Suites, Comfort Suites, Quality Inn, Holiday Inn Express, and Best Western Plus Prairie Inn offer holiday specials. Book direct and mention Albany Visitors Association to take advantage of great rates.

Find your own good night’s sleep with our directory • albanyvisitors.com/stay

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ALIVE IN ALBANY

This Willamette Valley town has a historic feel and contemporary offerings { WRITTEN BY SHEILA G. MILLER }

ABOVE Albany sits along the Willamette River. (photo: Keith Kendrick) (cover photo: Trevor DeFord)

I

n these days of ever-present smartphones, constant technological advances and on-demand everything, finding a quaint, quiet spot to reconnect to the real world can’t be underestimated. Albany is the spot to snap you back to reality. Tucked off I-5 between Salem and Eugene and minutes from Corvallis, Albany is convenient to all the best of Oregon—nearby vineyards show off the best grapes of the Willamette Valley, breweries experiment with hops grown on farms a stone’s throw away, trails and scenic bikeways keep you active. If it’s a trip back

in time you seek, Albany’s downtown and various historic districts will hit the spot. Settlers arrived here in the 1840s, and Albany was founded in 1848 when the Monteith brothers, Walter and Thomas, bought the area and named it for the capital of their home state, New York. Then the brothers platted a town on the eastern banks of the Willamette River. It served as a farming and manufacturing stronghold and an important waypoint for travelers, and today boasts a collection of historic buildings from a variety of eras, rarely seen in one city. {2019}  DESTINATION ALBANY  2


DAY 1

T

he obvious place to start exploring Albany is in its downtown. The city, with about 53,000 residents, has a vibrant downtown area with a nice mix of shops, restaurants and cultural opportunities. Start with brunch at Brick & Mortar Cafe, a bustling spot favored by locals. Plates overflow with scrambles, waffles, stuffed pancakes and French toast. On the weekends, Brick & Mortar also has a Bloody Mary bar with a rotating variety of accoutrements to add for the perfect breakfast cocktail. Next, traverse the main drags (First and Second avenues) and stop in the locally owned shops. If you’re looking for home decor, antiques, or the perfect gift, you’ll want to stop in to Oak Creek Collection Marketplace, an eclectic but classy mix of all kinds of

things you didn’t know you needed. Or try Emma Downtown (and its soon-to-open second location across the street, the Sales Closet), which has the most perfectly curated displays of fun trinkets, plus a selection of pretty clothing. Looking for menswear that isn’t right off the rack? The Natty Dresser features brands such as Filson, Pendleton and Stetson, offers custom suits and tailoring and alterations. Plus, it’s just a beautiful shop to walk through. For the dog who has everything, check out the huge Sniffany’s Pet Boutique (you read that right!). You did not realize there were so many more things your pets needed in their lives. And if antiques are your thing, make sure to check out the Albany Antique Mall, Cronies Vintage & Antique Emporium, and

ABOVE The Monteith House was built in 1849 for the city’s founders. (photo: Oliver J. Anderson)

3  DESTINATION ALBANY  {2019}

the Eclectic Zebra, which is a blast to browse, though you’re unlikely to walk out without something fun. After shopping, you’ve arrived at the most beloved location in the whole city—the historic carousel and accompanying museum. A nonprofit volunteer organization spent a decade bringing the traditional carousel to First Avenue right in the heart of the downtown area. The carousel, which features thirty-two animals hand-carved and painted in the adjoining museum and carving studio, will delight kids, of course, but is just as special for adults. Each of the old-world animals are colorful and unique—a merhorse with a school of fish around his tail, a bison with a Native American scene playing out on its back, a lion with a peace dove flying past her and a lamb at

her feet. The carousel runs on an antique 1909 mechanism, which is impressive enough, but in the adjoining gift shop and museum you can see other old carousel pieces and the volunteers at work on the next animals to join the menagerie. After the carousel, get a bit more culture in with a trip through the Monteith House up the street. This original home, built in 1849, is authentically restored to the pioneer era and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. It was owned by the Monteith brothers, who helped establish Albany, and was the site of many firsts in the area. The lovingly restored property will transport you back in time. Finish your day with a nice dinner at Sybaris Bistro. This warm, lovely restaurant changes its menu frequently, just as crops come in and out of season. No matter what season, the menu is always on point.

GET A BIT MORE CULTURE IN WITH A TRIP THROUGH THE MONTEITH HOUSE UP THE STREET. THIS ORIGINAL HOME, BUILT IN 1849, IS AUTHENTICALLY RESTORED TO THE PIONEER ERA AND IS LISTED ON THE NATIONAL REGISTER OF HISTORIC PLACES.


ADV E R TISE ME N T

Stroll along tree-lined sidewalks and immerse yourself in the uncommon shopping experience that is Albany’s Downtown Historic Commercial District. Visit art galleries, clothing boutiques, and gift, garden and pet stores. Browse for antiques and vintage furnishings, jewelry, books—even fly-fishing paraphernalia. As Oregonians we enjoy the luxury of taxfree shopping. Use the change left in your wallet for a first-run movie and snacks at the charming Pix Theatre or tickets to a live performance at the Albany Civic Theater, one of the oldest, best-known community theaters in Oregon. Plan to visit for First Friday—an event rapidly becoming an Albany favorite. Downtown shops and restaurants are open late the first Friday of each month. Visit the Historic Carousel & Museum, Gallery Calapooia and the Albany Regional Museum, or simply relax with a locally produced cocktail, micro-brew, bourbon or glass of wine. Plan a new tradition, you’ll want to linger in Albany: Come for the history, architecture, natural beauty and fabulous food and stay overnight for a fun-filled shopping getaway.

. y n SeeAlba

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Clockwise from top left: Albany Historic Carousel (Cathy Webb), dining at Sybaris (AO Films), The Natty Dresser (Kristi Crawford), Pix Theatre (Oliver J. Anderson).


DAY 2

MORE PLACES TO… Step Back in Time » Albany Antique Mall

{www.albanyantiquemall.com}

» Albany Regional Museum {www.armuseum.com}

» Monteith House

{www.monteithhouse.org}

Make a Toast » Deluxe Brewing

{www.sinisterdeluxe.com}

» Sweet Red Bistro {www.facebook.com/ sweetredbistro}

» Sybaris Bistro

{www.sybarisbistro.com}

O

nce you’ve seen the downtown core, you can head a bit farther afield in your Albany exploration. If you love the pastoral look of covered bridges, you’re in luck—Albany and its surrounding towns have nine of the rare sites. The whole tour will take you a couple hours, but you can also swing out to two or three before visiting other historic sites around the area. A favorite is Shimanek Bridge, which is painted bright red. About 12 miles from Albany you’ll find Thompson’s Mills State Heritage Site, a relic of Oregon’s rural past. The mill site is the only remaining water-powered mill in Oregon. See the turbines turn in a true transport back in time— the site is open daily from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. and is free to

visit, and you can get a free guided tour of the property. In the winter, the Christmas Parlour Tour is a must-see. For $15, you’ll get a tour of several historic homes and other buildings impeccably decorated for the holidays. If you’re visiting in summer, try to catch July’s tour of historic homes and buildings, which includes private homes and historic sites such as the Whitespires Church and the Monteith House Museum. Off the beaten path are also a few restaurants worth a look. The Barn at Hickory Station is a new brewpub with food carts. It’s the first of its kind in the region, with thirty-two taps and with hopes of having as many as ten food carts in the pod, surrounded by a large grassy space perfect for families.

Frankie’s is a great stop for lunch. This high-end option is tucked into a strip mall façade. Try the pork belly fries or the meatballs to start. Then swing over to Restyle Upscale Resale, across the parking lot, for one last bit of shopping. The high-end boutique has gently used women’s clothing. If wineries call, Springhill Cellars’ intimate setting is just five minutes west, or you’ll find well-known names (St. Innocent, Ankeny) just twenty minutes up the road or to the west. And if beer is more your scene, try Calapooia Brewing—a true locals hangout with good beer and a laidback vibe. Finally, finish your weekend with a cocktail and a steak at Vault 244, one of the real fine dining treats in the city.

» Vault 244 Bistro {www.vault244.com}

Get Dressed Up » Emma Downtown {www.facebook.com/ emmadowntown}

» Natty Dresser

{www.thenattydresser.com}

Take a Walk » Talking Water Gardens {www.facebook.com/ talkingwatergardens}

Meet a Friend » Margin Coffee

{www.margincoffee.com}

Take in a Flick » The Albany Pix Theatre {www.albanypix.com}

Get Artsy » Gallery Calapooia

{www.gallerycalapooia.com}

» Splatter Box ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Albany and its surrounds have nine covered bridges. Thompson’s Mills is a state heritage site with a working water-powered turbine. Sweet Red Bistro is a great spot for a drink and charcuterie. (photos: Nancy Hunt; Karla Boren; Joel Alire)

5  DESTINATION ALBANY  {2019}

{www.splatterbox.net}


Treat yourself to culinary adventures in Albany. Sweet Red Bistro is a coffee bar by day and wine bar by night, serving favorite dishes like Sweet Red’s famous Tomato Gorgonzola Soup and Hand-Cut Steak Medallions with Cognac Cream Sauce. If your sweet tooth is calling, you may want to skip dinner and start with dessert to enjoy seasonal delights such as Salted Caramel Butterscotch Cream Brûlée or Blueberry Lemon Bread Pudding with Frosting, made fresh daily. Sybaris offers eclectic Northwest cuisine by James Beard-nominated chef Matt Bennett, who was trained in traditional French style and places an emphasis on the

Photo by Cathy Webb

indulge.

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freshest locally grown foods to craft the highest-quality cuisine. Freshness is never far away: The Grilled Ancho Rubbed Chinook Salmon or Seafood Tower are brought inland from the Oregon Coast—just an hour away—the same day it comes to your table! If a cozy nightspot is in the cards, Vault 244 Bistro provides quiet ambiance in addition to fine dining and cocktails. The menu boasts a delicious selection of small plates, appetizers, hearty steaks and entrees featuring the likes of Stuffed Chicken Parmesan and Pork Wellington. Kick off the night with one of Vault 244’s famous Mojitos or a Oaxaca Wakka Wakka, then cap the experience with a dessert selection highlighted by Apple Pear Crumble or a sinful Flourless Chocolate Torte.

albanyvisitors.com 541-928-0911


spin.

Photo by Dee Brausch Photography

go for a

Saddle up a fierce dragon or hitch a ride on a fanciful fish. A visit to Albany would not be complete without a trip to the Albany Historic Carousel & Museum, a menagerie of creatures created by the hands and imagination of local volunteers. More than 15 years in the making behind more than 160,000 hours of volunteer effort, the carousel is built on a historic 1909 mechanism and draws visitors from every state, every continent and many island nations, averaging 14,000 visitors a month. Come see how the magic happens as carvers shape the animals, which are then lovingly painted and prepared for placement on the carousel. Then choose your favorite critter—whether it be a giraffe, frog, horse or bear—and take a spin.

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Ski… Stay… Play…

HOOD RIVER Visit Hood River, just an hour drive east from Portland. The Columbia Gorge’s breathtaking landscape and the charming community of Hood River is your preferred ski basecamp to Mt. Hood Meadows.

CHECK OUT THESE LOCAL EVENTS! Hood River Holidays hoodriver.org/hood-river-holidays Hood River Foodie February hoodriver.org/hood-river-foodie-february For a dream ski trip or a cozy winter getaway, you’ll find attractive winter packages with participating lodging providers offering direct links for multi-day lift ticket savings, so you’ll be on the mountain instead of waiting in line. $159 for 2 of 3 days · $179 for 3 of 5 days $199 for 4 of 6 days

To plan your winter getaway to Hood River and Mt. Hood Meadows, call 800-366-3530 or visit HoodRiver.org


THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST has the best combination of deep snow and variety of ski cultures—ranging from Whistler and Sun Valley to Mt. Ashland and 49° North. Use our guide as an update to what’s new at ski areas throughout the Pacific Northwest and to plan your next ski vacation. We’ve culled our favorites by state and by stats crucial for decision-making, such as vertical feet, average snowfall and base elevation. Book your trip and enjoy!

PNW POWDAHHH GET READY FOR A SEASON OF EPIC WITH OUR GUIDE TO TOP SKI RESORTS AROUND THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST WRITTEN BY KEVIN MAX

Head to Fernie, in the Canadian Rockies, where snowfall can reach 30 feet each winter. (photo: Henry Georgi/Fernie) (cover photo: Blake Jorgenson/SilverStar Mountain Resort)

2019   SKI NORTHWEST  2


WASHINGTON

BY THE NUMBERS MT. BAKER SKI AREA

Base Elevation: 3,500 ft Vertical Feet: 1,500 Acres: 2,600 Chairs: 8 Avg. Snowfall: 663 in

STEVENS PASS

Base Elevation: 4,061 ft Vertical Feet: 1,800 Acres: 1,125 Chairs: 10 Avg. Snowfall: 450 in

MISSION RIDGE

Base Elevation: 4,570 ft Vertical Feet: 2,250 Acres: 2,000 Chairs: 4 Avg. Snowfall: 200 in

49° NORTH MOUNTAIN RESORT

Base Elevation: 3,932 ft Vertical Feet: 1,851 Acres: 2,325 Chairs: 6 Avg. Snowfall: 301 in

CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN

Base Elevation: 3,912 ft Vertical Feet: 3,100 Acres: 2,600 Chairs: 10 Avg. Snowfall: 350 in

MT. SPOKANE SKI & SNOWBOARD PARK Base Elevation: 4,200 ft Vertical Feet: 2,000 Acres: 1,704 Chairs: 6 Avg. Snowfall: 162 in

THE SUMMIT AT SNOQUALMIE

Base Elevation: 2,840 ft Vertical Feet: 2,280 Acres: 1,994 Chairs: 19 Avg. Snowfall: 428 in

Highest Base

Most Snow

Most Vertical

MT. BAKER SKI AREA Under the sombra of Mount Baker and Mount Shuksan and 54 miles east of Bellingham, Mt. Baker Ski Area is one of the Pacific Northwest’s largest and northernmost resorts, giving it a long season. Baker’s relatively low base, at 3,550 feet, is not an issue when this North Cascades resort gets the greatest snowfall among its Washington peers—663 inches. Noted: The winner of the Mount Baker Film Festival each November gets a free season pass!

STEVENS PASS In summer 2018, Vail Resorts closed on its $64 million acquisition of Stevens Pass and began talk that it would add two new lifts to Stevens Pass. Lodged in the North Cascades between Seattle and Leavenworth, Stevens Pass becomes the only Washington ski resort that is part of the Epic pass family, which allows its passholders reciprocity at seventeen resorts across the country, including Vail. Noted: Leavenworth is Stevens Pass’ bedroom community and a Bavarian blast during winter months.

MISSION RIDGE Thirteen miles southwest of Wenatchee, Mission Ridge is on the sunnier side of the Cascades. This small and family-friendly resort has drier powder and easy access to backcountry skiing to Clara Lake, Mission Peak and Stemilt Basin. Noted: The early bird season passes are reasonable and offer price relief for 18- to 24-year-olds.

49° NORTH MOUNTAIN RESORT Inside the Colville National Forest

3  SKI NORTHWEST  2019

Crystal Mountain has the biggest vertical in Washington and The Snorting Elk for après ski. (photo: Crystal Mountain)

in northeastern Washington, 49° North has become one of the best spots for tree skiing. About 60 miles north of Spokane and the same distance south of the Canadian border, 49° North offers a classic small ski resort experience without the lines. Noted: Stop into Cy’s Cafe—a new rustic slopeside yurt—for a cinnamon roll and coffee.

CRYSTAL MOUNTAIN Washington’s largest ski resort, when measured by skiable acres and vertical feet, Crystal is the bomb.com. About 70 miles southeast of Tacoma and 85 miles southeast of Seattle, Crystal is Washington’s most popular ski resort and is one of the few resorts that has on-slope and nearby lodging. Crystal Mountain has chalets and cabins, hot tubs and a 90-degree pool at Alta Crystal Resort, among other places. Noted: No matter where you’re skiing on the mountain on Fridays or Saturdays, finish at The Snorting Elk for live music, and good food and drink.

MT. SPOKANE SKI & SNOWBOARD PARK With its backside expansion of 800 acres, a new chair and seven new runs last year, Mt. Spokane breaks out of the mom-and-pop

ranks and into the big time. The new terrain adds wide open intermediate and expert runs to the portfolio. A scenic drive 36 miles northeast of Spokane, Mt. Spokane is a hidden gem for both downhill and Nordic skiing. Noted: Mt. Spokane is a nonprofit organization, and the community and staff make this resort a great experience.

THE SUMMIT AT SNOQUALMIE Acquired by Boyne in 2018, Summit at Snoqualmie is now a part of the Ikon pass, which includes ski access to forty resorts such as Squaw Valley, Revelstoke and Aspen. The resort’s new Silver Fir Cafe is a beautiful, open and contemporary take on the classic ski lodge. The acquisition of 77 acres between Summit Central and Summit West in 2017 allowed skiers to move freely between the beginner and intermediate ski areas without having to ski advanced slopes. Summit at Snoqualmie has a state-leading nineteen lifts that make approximately 500,000 uphill trips per year At the summit, visitors can see what makes this place special, with views of Keechelus Lake to the south. Noted: Summit at Snoqualmie sees an average snowfall of 428 inches. Do the math.


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NORTH AMERICA'S LARGEST CROSS-COUNTRY SKI AREA

120+ miles of groomed trails | kids ski free | cozy accommodations | delicious local food | western flair and fun for everyone

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MT. BACHELOR Nicely tucked into the Deschutes National Forest, Mt. Bachelor is, by many metrics, Oregon’s biggest ski area. Even before the new quad Cloudchaser opened in 2016, adding 635 new skiable acres to the mountain, Bachelor was already the undisputed heavyweight among its peers. On a volcano in the sunny Central Oregon high desert just outside of Bend, Bachelor’s powder is light and deep, getting an average of 462 inches snowfall per year. The resort is family friendly, yet has plenty of expert runs and off-piste challenges as well. Noted: Avoid the crowded winter holiday dates and you will have a great experience on the mountain.

MT. HOOD MEADOWS Meadows is the playground for Portland snow riders of all stripes. The upper bowl, with double black diamond runs, is often the destination for freeride skiers and boarders. Just 65 miles southeast of Portland, it’s not a long haul to go from public transportation to powder. With 2,777 of vertical feet over 2,150 acres, Meadows has height and width to accommodate virtually any slopeside pursuit. Noted: Unbuckle at Vertical North

for Mediterranean cuisine, a beer and great mountain vistas.

MT. HOOD SKIBOWL When all of the fun is drained from winter, go to Skibowl. Billed as the resort with the largest night skiing terrain (thirty-four lighted runs), Skibowl brings out the youth in its visitors. There is day tubing and nightly cosmic tubing with LEDs and lasers. Skibowl also has specially designed snowmobiles for little kids to feel the thrill of their first motorized sled. Noted: Open seven days per week.

MT. ASHLAND SKI AREA Twenty miles directly south of Ashland in Southern Oregon and just north of the California border would seem to be a geographic liability for a ski area. Mt. Ashland, however, has a base elevation of 6,383 feet, which makes it all better. Mt. Ashland is operated as a nonprofit and has a Tudor-style lodge in homage to the nearby Oregon Shakespeare Festival. Noted: Because of its sustainable practices and after installing solar panels, Mt. Ashland became the first in the country to become STOKE certified (Sustainable Tourism Operator’s Kit for Evaluation).

HOODOO SKI AREA Known by the motto Steep, Deep and Cheap, Hoodoo is an alternative to the popular Mt. Bachelor. Though Hoodoo gets an average annual snowfall of 450 inches, the resort struggles with weather patterns atop the Santiam Pass. When the snow is plentiful, Hoodoo is a classic small-resort experience. Just 21 miles northwest of Sisters, Hoodoo gives its skiers and riders a thrilling day at the slopes and the benefits of being close to the cozy Western town of Sisters. Noted: Thrifty Thursdays passes from January to March are just $25.

ANTHONY LAKES MOUNTAIN RESORT The base of Anthony Lakes just north of Baker City in Eastern Oregon begins at 7,100 feet, which ain’t nothing. The old-school ski area feels a little like the one you grew up with, but with a twist. The terrain can get a little steep. The snow can get very deep and the backcountry or cat skiing can be top shelf pow pow. One triple chair serves twenty-one runs and 1,100 acres. Noted: The Starbottle Saloon in the lodge is itself worth the journey.

BY THE NUMBERS MT. BACHELOR

Base Elevation: 5,700 ft Vertical Feet: 3,365 Acres: 4,318 Chairs: 11 Avg. Snowfall: 462

MT. HOOD MEADOWS Base Elevation: 4,523 ft Vertical Feet: 2,777 Acres: 2,150 Chairs: 11 Avg. Snowfall: 429 in

MT. HOOD SKIBOWL

Base Elevation: 3,600 ft Vertical Feet: 1,500 Acres: 960 Chairs: 4 Avg. Snowfall: 300 in

MT. ASHLAND

Base Elevation: 6,383 ft Vertical Feet: 1,150 Acres: 200 Chairs: 4 Avg. Snowfall: 265 in

HOODOO SKI AREA

Base Elevation: 4,668 ft Vertical Feet: 1,035 Acres: 800 Chairs: 5 Avg. Snowfall: 450 in

ANTHONY LAKES MOUNTAIN RESORT

Base Elevation: 7,100 ft Vertical Feet: 900 Acres: 1,100 Chairs: 2 Avg. Snowfall: 300 in

Highest Base

Most Snow

Most Vertical

Mt. Bachelor opened a new quad in 2016, and with it, a whole new facet of the mountain. (photo: Anelise Bergin/Mt. Bachelor) 5  SKI NORTHWEST  2019


AMERICA’S LARGEST MULTI-SPORT RELAY RACE FROM MT. BAKER SKI AREA TO BELLINGHAM BAY

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IDAHO + MONTANA

BY THE NUMBERS

IDAHO

SUN VALLEY RESORT Base Elevation: 5,750 ft Vertical Feet: 3,400 Acres: 2,154 Chairs: 15 Avg. Snowfall: 220 in

SUN VALLEY RESORT The history of American ski culture is in these hills. In 1936, a Union Pacific Railroad engineer pioneered the first chairlift, and it was installed at Sun Valley’s Dollar Mountain. So began an era of glamorous Hollywood attendance in Sun Valley. Sun Valley’s varied terrain works well for skiers of all levels. The ski lodges hearken back to an era when fireplaces were grand and railings were all polished brass. Much like when the Hollywood stars frequented Sun Valley, skiing is only a fraction of the experience in this town. Its restaurants and bars are places to be seen as much as for eating and drinking.

SCHWEITZER MOUNTAIN RESORT

Base Elevation: 3,960 ft Vertical Feet: 2,400 Acres: 2,900 Chairs: 10 Avg. Snowfall: 300 in

BRIDGER BOWL

Base Elevation: 6,100 ft Vertical Feet: 2,700 Acres: 2,000 Chairs: 8 Avg. Snowfall: 350 in

BIG SKY RESORT

Base Elevation: 7,500 ft Vertical Feet: 4,350 Acres: 5,850 Chairs: 24 Avg. Snowfall: 400 in

WHITEFISH MOUNTAIN RESORT Base Elevation: 4,464 Vertical Feet: 2,353 Acres: 3,000 Chairs: 11 Avg. Snowfall: 333 in

Highest Base

Most Snow

Most Vertical

FROM TOP Schweitzer is the best surprise of the Pacific Northwest. (photo: Schweitzer Mountain Resort) Whitefish Mountain Resort makes skiing and après skiing easy. (photo: Montana Office of Tourism and Business Development)

7  SKI NORTHWEST  2019

Noted: The Sun Valley ice rink is a storied place to spend an evening, too.

SCHWEITZER MOUNTAIN RESORT Schweitzer Mountain has to be the industry’s most pleasant surprise. Just 70 miles south of the Canadian border in Idaho’s panhandle, Schweitzer is relatively isolated from large population centers. A narrow winding road out of Ponderay leads up to its 3,960-foot base and to the small village around the resort. The skiing is fantastic and even better because it feels like you’ve just pulled a winning ticket. The resort will add two new lifts for this season and is building a thirty-unit boutique hotel, too. Noted: The Stella lift entry was created by Disney “imagineer” Geoff Puckett.

MONTANA BRIDGER BOWL

BIG SKY RESORT

Bozeman’s backcountry, Bridger Bowl on the east slope of Bridger Mountain Range, is just 18 miles northeast of Bozeman. A longtime tradition that connects Bozeman and Bridger Bowl sits atop the Art Deco Baxter Hotel in town. Since 1988, every time Bridger Bowl gets at least 2 inches of new snow, a blue beacon atop the hotel flashes for the next twenty-four hours.

Fifty miles southwest of Bozemen, Big Sky is second to only to Park City in size. When you’re that big, you need chairlifts like the 2018-installed high-speed eight-seater Doppelmayr. All of the data come together at Big Sky, with a base elevation of 7,100 feet, a vertical drop of 4,350 feet and almost 6,000 acres to enjoy. The top of the Lone Peak tram brings you views of three states and two national parks—Yellowstone and Glacier.

Noted: Bridger Bowl is part of the Powder Alliance, which allows passholders to ski three non-holiday days at any of its nineteen member resorts per year.

Noted: Last summer, Big Sky began construction on a $20 million community center that will include a gym, locker rooms, a climbing wall, an ice rink and an arts wing.

WHITEFISH MOUNTAIN RESORT The home slopes of Lillehammer Olympic downhill gold medalist Tommy Moe, Whitefish Resort has a rich history in U.S. Alpine championships. For mere mortal recreational skiers, however, Whitefish, with 3,000 acres, will do nicely. Unlike many other Western ski resorts, Whitefish Resort has lodging options on the mountain, making it a seamless transition from ski to après ski. Noted: From Hellroaring Saloon, to the Bierstube and Café Kandahar, there’s no reason to get in a car.


CANADA

BY THE NUMBERS SILVERSTAR MOUNTAIN RESORT

Base Elevation: 3,789 ft Vertical Feet: 2,493 Acres: 3,282 Chairs: 7 Avg. Snowfall: 276 in

WHISTLER BLACKCOMB

Base Elevation: 2,215 ft Vertical Feet: 5,279 Acres: 8,171 Chairs: 22 Avg. Snowfall: 461 in

FERNIE

Base Elevation: 3,450 ft Vertical Feet: 3,550 Acres: 2,500 Chairs: 10 Avg. Snowfall: 360 in

REVELSTOKE MOUNTAIN RESORT

Base Elevation: 1,680 ft Vertical Feet: 5,620 Acres: 3,121 Chairs: 3 Avg. Snowfall: 394 in

Highest Base

Most Snow

Most Vertical

SILVERSTAR MOUNTAIN RESORT

and families who like to do both alpine and Nordic.

A gem in the British Columbia crown, SilverStar combines fantastic skiing with a small European village feel. The 3,280-acre ski area has good snow, a week’s worth of terrain and all of the services you would expect in a small ski village—ice skating, bowling, retail, lodging, dining, a bakery, entertainment and a grocery. At the northern tip of the Okanagan wine-growing region, SilverStar is surrounded by the Silver Star Provincial Park. In this greenery lies the connected Sovereign Lake Nordic Club for skinny skiers

Noted: A new gondola from the village to the summit was installed last season. Enjoy.

WHISTLER BLACKCOMB About 75 miles north of Vancouver, Whistler Blackcomb is the culmination of acreage, powder, convenience, culture and luxury. With 8,171 acres, 5,279 vertical feet and twenty-two lifts, including a new ten-passenger gondola, Whistler dwarfs Park City, Big Sky and Vail. More than 150 eateries that encompass

world cuisine and dozens of bars and dance clubs, including highend shopping and luxury lodging, make up Whistler Village. Noted: Merlin’s Bar and Grill is the place to be when you’re done making turns.

FERNIE Located 242 miles northeast of Spokane in the Lizard Range of the Canadian Rockies, Fernie is renowned for its huge annual snowfall that averages 30 feet. Of course, you’ll only need the top 3 or 4 feet of wispy powder to make it the best ski experience ever. Finish with fire and ice. At Cirque Restaurant & Bar, warm up with flaming cocktails and spectacular mountain views. Then slip on a parka and walk straight into the Ice Bar, built from blocks of ice. Noted: Fernie’s remoteness in southeastern British Columbia is another reason to love it.

REVELSTOKE MOUNTAIN RESORT Just south of Revelstoke National Park in southeastern British Columbia, Revelstoke is the white stuff that skiers’ dreams are made of. The category killer of 5,620 vertical drop is why experienced skiers train for months before attempting top-to-bottom runs. Get the full mountain experience with Revelstoke’s cat or heli-skiing operations. Noted: The mid-mountain Revelation Lodge puts you at the center of local ski culture with poutine and Mt. Begbie beer.

FROM LEFT Ripping up SilverStar. (photo: Blake Jorgenson/SilverStar Mountain Resort) Remote and pristine at Fernie, BC. (photo: Henry Georgi/Fernie)

9  SKI NORTHWEST  2019


Experience the Canadian Rockies, Fernie Style.

Destination BC/Dave Heath

Over 30 Ft of Snow Annually | 3,550 Vertical Ft | Top Elevation 7,000 Ft 2,500 Acres of Lift Access Terrain & Thousands of Acres for Catskiing

Located in the Rockies of southeast British Columbia, Fernie is known for its deep powder snow and cool local vibe. Just over a 100 miles north of Whitefish & Kalispell, Montana, Fernie is easy to get to. Add the great currency exchange rate that saves you 25–30% on everything, a trip up is a simple‌YES!

6 Nights Ski-in Ski-out Condo & 6 Days Skiing from US$295/night for Two. Book by November 30th. 4 Nights Ski-in Ski-out Condo & 4 Days Skiing from US$280/night for Two. Book Today! 1-800-258-7669 | legendaryfernie.com | tourismfernie.com | #ferniestoke


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9/9/2019 11:13:22 AM

Profile for Statehood Media

1859 Oregon's Magazine + Special Inserts: Destination Albany; Ski Northwest | November/December 2019