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Oregon’s Magazine

TRIP PLANNER: SOUTHERN OREGON WINE COUNTRY PG. 86

Beer and Bike Adventures

A 7-Mile Journey to the Bottom of the Ocean

DIY Chanterelle Butter

March | April 2020

OR DISTIEGON’S W I N E L L E R S, & BR MAKERS WON’ EWERS INNO T STOP VATIN G

THE LIBATIONS ISSUE

DRINK 1859oregonmagazine.com

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LOCAL LIVE

THINK

EXPLORE

OREGON

March | April

volume 62


O C F HE L PS M U LT I-G E N E R AT I O N A L FA MI L I E S A L I G N A R O U N D S H A R E D VA LU E S TO C R E AT E FA M I LY F U N D S

FAMILY

T HAT S AT I S F Y T HE I R P H I L A N T H R O P I C G OA L S, L E A D I N G TO LO N G-L A S T I N G, I MPAC T F U L G I VIN G.


Meet Chuck and Stone. Meet Chuck and his son Stone, founders of the Many Dances family fund that supports Native American culture and education. Their well-planned fund has helped hundreds of Oregonians and will continue to do so for generations to come. One family, just like Chuck and Stone’s, can make an impact. And when generous families, just like theirs, join together, they can make an exponential impact. We help make this happen. See how other families have partnered with Oregon Community Foundation to plan and amplify their giving impact in their communities and across the great state of Oregon at oregoncf.org/YOU.

PORTLAND

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O R E G O N C F.O R G / Y O U


An app can tell you where the mountain is. But it won’t help you climb it.


We’re Oregon’s leader in workers’ compensation insurance because we follow a simple formula: savings, service, and safety. We cover Oregon’s smallest businesses and its largest employers — including 53,000 businesses and 750,000 workers statewide. We provide low premiums, great service, and an unmatched safety program. Put it all together, and that’s workers’ comp that really works.

saif.com


Into the Deep

NH1044929 courtesy of Naval History and Heritage Command

In 1960, Oregonian Don Walsh took a ride to the bottom of the ocean in a tiny steel bathyscaphe called Trieste. Together with Jacques Piccard, the duo bottomed out about 7 miles below the surface in the Mariana Trench. When they returned to the surface, they were heroes. (pg. 66)


FEATURES MARCH | APRIL 2020 • volume 62

58 Whiskey Rebellion You know Oregon for its breweries and winemakers, but not so much for whiskey. Discover the craft distillers bottling Oregon’s independent spirit. written by Eric Flowers

66 Seven Miles Under the Sea Meet Don Walsh, the brave explorer you’ve probably never heard of. In 1960, he and a colleague plumbed the depths of the ocean in a bathyscaphe the size of a half-bath. written by Kevin Max

72 Emily Joan Greene

On the Edge

6          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Crater Lake National Park is a winter marvel, away from the crowds and in touch with nature and yourself. photography by Christian Murillo MARCH | APRIL 2020


NEW DINING EXPERIENCE

FOUR NORTHWEST TASTING ROOMS


DEPARTMENTS

LIVE 16 NOTEBOOK

MARCH | APRIL 2020 • volume 62

Celebrate Poler’s return of the cool camp gear, watch for whales, and get out to Enterprise to see Bart Budwig’s rootsy folk rock in person.

25

22 FOOD + DRINK

Looking for a ramen warmup or a good spot for a prix fixe experience? We’ve got a few options, plus a list of the best big, boozy beers in Oregon.

26 FARM TO TABLE

When Matthew Kilger heads into the forest, he looks for chanterelles hidden among the duff. We have ways to incorporate this Oregon delicacy into your dishes.

34 HOME + DESIGN

Universities around the state are transforming their campuses with high design and sustainability.

Jeremy Fenske

40 MIND + BODY

Bend’s Jamie Brown, a paratriathlete, is preparing for the 2020 Paralympic Games in Tokyo.

42 ARTIST IN RESIDENCE

Jo Hamilton’s transformative crochet portraits turn traditional fiber art on its head.

THINK 48 STARTUP

Oregon’s original sake maker, SakéOne, has been around for awhile. But it keeps innovating.

50 WHAT’S GOING UP

Breweries from Cascade Locks to Cottage Grove are building new gathering spaces for beer lovers.

52 WHAT I’M WORKING ON

Connoisseurs have long believed beer tastes different depending on where its hops were grown. Now, a group of experts is proving that theory.

80

Chris Pietsch

54 MY WORKSPACE

When dairies make cheese, they leave behind thousands of pounds of whey. Now, Emily Darchuk’s upstart Wheyward Spirits is turning that byproduct into a distinct spirit.

26

56 GAME CHANGER

12 13 94 96

EXPLORE

Editor’s Letter 1859 Online Map of Oregon Until Next Time

Deep Roots Coalition believes the Willamette Valley’s wines are better off without irrigation—rain only, please.

78 TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT

Blakeslee Vineyard Estate takes good wine, then adds an epic view of Mount Hood. It’s a perfect spot to while away a day.

80 ADVENTURE

Enjoy the ultimate Oregon adventure—a bike ride from brewery to brewery in Oregon’s beer-heavy towns.

84 LODGING

The newest addition at The Vintages is a 36-foot Spartan Royal Mansion. There’s nothing spartan about it.

86 TRIP PLANNER

COVER

photo by Emily Joan Greene Kentucky Corsage punch by New Deal Distillery (see Whiskey Rebellion, pg. 58)

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MARCH | APRIL 2020

Ashland combines the best of Southern Oregon—bold wines and the Bard.

92 NORTHWEST DESTINATION

Take your yoga practice on the road with Washington yoga retreats.


BREATHING DEEPLY COMES NATURALLY

You won’t find a more exquisitely inspiring mountain town than Missoula, Montana, where three rivers and seven wilderness areas converge in utter transcendence. The allure is immeasurable, and the culinary and live music scenes are downright remarkable, too. This hip little community is ecstasy for the outdoorsy, pulsating with arts, culture, big-city sounds, and friendly folks who happen to love really good local food and drink. Missoula doesn’t just satisfy the senses, it feeds the soul and offers a much needed escape to the fresh mountain air.

YOGA ON THE CLARK FORK RIVER, DOWNTOWN MISSOULA.

Call 1.800.526.3465 or visit destinationmissoula.org/1859 for more information.


CONTRIBUTORS

SEBASTIAN ZINN Writer Artist in Residence

ERIC FLOWERS Writer Whiskey Rebellion

AUBRIE LEGAULT Photographer Game Changer

CHRISTIAN MURILLO Photographer On the Edge

Profiling Jo Hamilton has deepened my appreciation for portraiture and fiber art. Hamilton is thoughtful, diligent and articulate, and she has cultivated a distinct creative vision, which I greatly admire. Her artistic practice is attuned to the reverberations between local and global issues, and she is devoted to living according to her values and empowering her community. (pg. 42)

Oregon is known for its breweries and winemakers, but whiskey—not so much. That could be changing, though. Over the past decade, craft distillers have popped up around the state, offering artisan spirits like rye whiskey distilled from high desert wheat in Madras and Pendleton vodka infused with Hermiston-grown watermelons. Tasked with quantifying this trend, I looked around the state and found dozens of craft distillers, like Portland’s New Deal Distillery, who are putting Oregon’s independent spirit in a bottle. I’ll drink to that. (pg. 58)

I have had a couple of assignments lately in Willamette Valley covering winemakers and farmers who are not only creating awesome wines but are advocates for the environment and vocal proponents of changing how vineyards farm. John Paul is definitely among those making a difference in wine country. His organization, Deep Roots, encourages vineyards to use what the valley already has an abundance of—rain—and inspires farmers to not use irrigation. It was a rare photo shoot where I was happy to see it was raining. John Paul didn’t seem to mind, either. (pg. 56)

Snowshoeing with my partner around Crater Lake was different than many of my expeditions. It was not about logging countless miles or ascending the tallest peaks. It was about simply finding a way to genuinely feel at home in the beautiful outdoors. Adventures like this are always a fantastic reminder that, while finding a metric to measure happiness is difficult, the restorative effects the wilderness can have on your soul are guaranteed. (pg. 72)

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MARCH | APRIL 2020


EDITOR Kevin Max

MANAGING EDITOR Sheila G. Miller CREATIVE Allison Bye

WEB MANAGER

OFFICE MANAGER

DIRECTOR OF SALES

Jenny Kamprath

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Kennedy Cooper

Cindy Miskowiec

SALES ASSISTANT Elijah Aikens

HOMEGROWN CHEF

Aaron Opsahl

BEERLANDIA COLUMNIST

Thor Erickson Jeremy Storton

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Cathy Carroll, Melissa Dalton, Eric Flowers, Tiffany Hill, Patsy Hoffman-Murphy, Alisha McDarris, Daniel O’Neil, Valerie Rogers, Ben Salmon, Jen Sotolongo, Jen Stevenson, Mackenzie Wilson, Sebastian Zinn

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Elijah Aikens, Charlotte Dupont, Emily Joan Greene, Aubrie LeGault, Christian Murillo, Eugene Pavlov

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Maggie Wauklyn

Mail

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All rights reserved. No part of this publiCation may be reproduCed or transmitted in any form or by any means, eleCtroniCally or meChaniCally, inCluding photoCopy, reCording or any information storage and retrieval system, without the express written permission of Statehood Media. ArtiCles and photographs appearing in 1859 Oregon’s Magazine may not be reproduCed in whole or in part without the express written Consent of the publisher. 1859 Oregon’s Magazine and Statehood Media are not responsible for the return of unsoliCited materials. The views and opinions expressed in these artiCles are not neCessarily those of 1859 Oregon’s Magazine, Statehood Media or its employees, staff or management.

MARCH | APRIL 2020

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      11


MANY OF YOU are recently coming off of your blasphemous Dry January, so called by Brits who foisted this on Americans and, themselves, are out of regulated sight and back in the pub. Of course, the only thing dry in Oregon is the east side of the state, but whiskey flows where rain doesn’t. Welcome to our Libations Issue. If there were no whiskey in the world, there would be no fun. Thankfully there’s more fun in Oregon every day as new craft distillers join others in a Whiskey Rebellion (page 58). We look at the statewide scene being buttressed by distillers such as New Basin in Madras, Oregon Grain Growers Distillery in Pendleton and New Deal in Portland. Add to that a trio of cocktail recipes and you have a literature-to-lips work of art. Not to be outdone, our Beerlandia columnist susses out the biggest Oregon beers out there. By big, we mean big on flavor and ABV (10 percent to 16.9 percent!). One will do. Tipsy at two. See Beerlandia on page 22. Other notables in the Libations Issue are craft sake maker, SakéOne in Forest Grove. Don’t think warm, think and drink cold. And there’s Wheyward Spirits, the outgrowth of an enterprising new spirit made from otherwise discarded whey. Based in Eugene, Wheyward Spirit is cutting-edge science and terroir in a new product (page 54). Finally, in Oregon’s oldest lineage of wine, we look at what effect Deep Roots Coalition is having on wine growers in the Willamette Valley. The growing ethic is that not only is there little need for irrigation to grow grapes in the Willam-WET Valley, natural rain water is a key ingredient of terroir that is otherwise supplanted by irrigation. Deep Roots Coalition co-founder John Paul makes the convincing case for conservation and terroir in this piece on page 56. We’d be remiss in not mentioning one of America’s greatest explorers, whose name is just below the surface for many of this generation. Don Walsh, then a young Navy lieutenant in San Diego (now a longtime Oregon resident and OSU courtesy professor) crammed himself into a small submersible in January 1960. There was room for only one other person,

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MARCH | APRIL 2020

Jenn Redd

FROM THE EDITOR

Swiss explorer Jacques Piccard, in Trieste bathyscaphe. In a daring feat called Project Nekton, the two dove 7 miles to the deepest spot in the world’s oceans, setting a new world record. The story of Walsh and his historic dive can be found on page 66. He’s gone back to the deepest depths on other missions, too, including with Titanic director, James Cameron. We salute the ongoing bravery of Capt. Don Walsh.


1859 ONLINE More ways to connect with your favorite Oregon content www.1859oregonmagazine.com | #1859oregon | @1859oregon

have a photo that shows off your oregon experience? Share it with us by filling out the Oregon Postcard form on our website. If chosen, you’ll win 1859 gear and a chance to be published here. www.1859oregon magazine.com/postcard photo by Micah Lynn Circles in the Sand in Bandon.

#1859OREGON What does your Oregon look like? Connect with us on social media by tagging your photos with #1859oregon.

GEAR UP Show off your state pride with 1859 T-shirts, hoodies, tote bags and more from our online shop. www.1859oregonmagazine.com/shop MARCH | APRIL 2020

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      13


NOTEBOOK 16 FOOD + DRINK 22 FARM TO TABLE 26 HOME + DESIGN 34 MIND + BODY 40

pg. 34 Portland State University’s Karl Miller Center adds life to the business school.

Brad Feinknopf

ARTIST IN RESIDENCE 42


A rug for every reason. The people at ARC have been to rug shows near and far and are extremely passionate about their role in making The Area Rug Connection the place to buy authentic, gorgeous, unique rugs. They truly care. And, that is what sets this shop apart from all others. - Laura H.

SHOWROOM LOCATION: 201 SE 2ND STREET - BEND, OR | 541.383.9013 | info@arearugconnection.com


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Tidbits + To-dos

Hue Noir Paula Hayes founded Hue Noir in 2009 with an eye toward offering makeup in a wider array of shades and specifically designed for women of color. The Portland company sells foundation in twenty-five shades, from carob to cashew, as well as eye and lip options in colors that pop. Hue Noir proves that being inclusive is truly beautiful. www.huenoir.com

Each spring, gray whales travel along Oregon’s shores on their way to Alaska. Join the Oregon State Parks in some whale watching—this year, Oregon’s whale watch week is March 21 to 29. There are twenty-four locations along the Oregon Coast, from Astoria to Brookings, where volunteers will be stationed to help visitors look for whales. Look for signs saying “Whale Watching Spoken Here,” or head to Depoe Bay’s whale watching center for more information. www.oregonstateparks.org

camark le you nd r ar

Daffodil Drive & Festival Each year, Junction City celebrates its fields of daffodils with a drive along country roads. Get in on the action this year, March 21-22. The drive ends at the historic Long Tom Grange in Junction City, but to get there you’ll pass miles of wild roadside daffodils. Once at the festival, you’ll find wagon rides and vendors, as well as daffodils for sale. It’s the perfect spring event. www.junctioncity.com/news/daffodils/index.htm

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Whale Watch

2020


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Gather Nuts

Mac Food Truck Fest Combine the Willamette Valley’s best wine and beer with two dozen food trucks gathered in one place for a weekend, and you can see why Mac Food Truck Fest is a must this spring. The event, in its second year, takes place on Alpine Avenue on April 25 and 26, and admission is $10 (kids 12 and under are free). The event, put on by the McMinnville Noon Rotary Club and the Willamette Valley Cancer Foundation, helps raise money for cancer patients and promotes community projects.

If healthy eating is on your radar, you’ll want to check out Bend’s Gather Nuts, a company that produces a variety of flavorful nuts and seeds for snacking. From cumin pumpkin seeds to turmeric curry cashews and maple cinnamon Brazil nuts, there’s a flavor for everyone. www.gathernuts.com

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Poler gear Poler is back. The company that gave us #campvibes shuttered at the start of 2019 when it filed for bankruptcy. Now the company is making a comeback, with a flagship store in Portland, website and the same great outdoor gear. We remain partial to the Napsack, a wearable sleeping bag, but look for all kinds of cool apparel and camping accessories. www.poler.com

MARCH | APRIL 2020

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      17


Matt Kennelly

notebook

Musician

A Musical Life

Bart Budwig’s new album reflects his music-centric life in Enterprise

Listen on Spotify

written by Ben Salmon

WHEN HE WAS 18 years old, Bart Budwig picked up his mom’s acoustic guitar, and chords and words and melodies began to gush out of him like an open fire hydrant. “I wrote my first song within about a week,” he said in a recent interview. “I guess I would say now that I needed to figure stuff out by writing music, but I wasn’t thinking that at the time. I was more just barfing music.” In other words, there was a lot inside Budwig that needed to come out. Six years earlier, his mother—an exceedingly kind and musically inclined “Jesus-movement hippie,” he said—was hit by a car and killed while riding her bicycle along the highway near the family’s hometown of Moscow, Idaho. Not long after he started writing songs, his first girlfriend was also hit by a car and killed while jogging. Looking back, Budwig can hear those experiences rippling through his earliest songs. “There’s a lot of visceral, emotional, sad music in there, and I like playing that stuff now because they’re so raw,” he said. “Those songs are good because of their emotions, not because of the songwriting. I feel like I’m a much better songwriter now, but I feel like a lot of my earlier songs hold up better just because they’re really human.” That’s a reasonable sentiment, but it also sells Budwig’s most recent material short, because the songs on his new album, Another Burn on the Astroturf, sound built for the long haul. 18          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL

2020

Recorded over a few days at the OK Theater in the tiny Northeastern Oregon town of Enterprise, the eleven songs on Astroturf fuse handcrafted folk-rock with warm, rootsy soul and a distinctly vintage vibe, like a wellworn pair of blue jeans that fits perfectly. Or Van Morrison. Since he left a ten-year career as a certified nursing assistant and moved to Enterprise in 2015, the 100-year-old OK Theater has been the center of Budwig’s world. He lives there, runs sound for concerts there and has recorded around fifty bands’ albums there. He also recorded Astroturf there over five days in late 2018 with fifteen of his friends, including a chef and a visual artist, who painted (but didn’t quite finish) a mural during the session. For Budwig, making music is about more than just processing his own feelings. It’s about bringing people together and making them happy, either with a relatable lyric or a gathering at his historic theater of a home. “Even if this is a bad record, the making of it will always be special to me because of everyone that I got to work with and how fun it was to spend time with my friends making music,” he said. “That way, the record’s at least a win-lose, or it may be a win-win.”


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Renee Lopez

notebook

Aron Nels Steinke is up for an Oregon Book Award.

Bibliophile

In the Classroom Aron Nels Steinke playfully illuminates the joys and challenges of school interview by Tiffany Hill

BY DAY, Aron Nels Steinke is a teacher at Woodstock Elementary in SE Portland, but in the evening he balances being a husband and father with his lifelong passion of drawing and writing. For years, Steinke, already an award-winning published author, carved out time each week for a one-page comic about his class. He transformed his students, and himself, into animals—a frog, rabbit, dog, pig and more—because he wanted to hide their identities and because he just liked sketching them. His comics were originally for his fellow teachers, but after years of creating this colorful world set in an elementary school, he had a lightbulb moment: Why not make them for his students and other kids? Steinke’s talent landed him a book deal and in 2018, Scholastic published Mr. Wolf’s Class, a graphic novel about an anthropomorphic class and their everyday adventures. There are three books in the series, and in October, Steinke will release the fourth, Mr. Wolf’s Class: Field Trip. One of the series, Mystery Club, has been named a finalist for the 2020 Oregon Book Awards. 20          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE MARCH | APRIL

2020

What’s been the feedback you’ve received from kids, including your own son and your students? I get letters every couple of days or even just Instagram messages or emails from parents and teachers and educators saying what a positive impact it’s been making on their kid’s lives. There’s a really good one I got last week: A woman said that her daughter goes to sleep with the books and they read them like four or five times a day. It’s really rewarding and gratifying to get that. For each book, do you have a specific creative process? With each new project, I have to start with sketching. That’s really important because I have to imagine the world, because comics and graphic novels are primarily visual. That’s how Mr. Wolf’s Class started, was doing these comic strips. I spent years doing those and I drew the cast first. I drew the characters I wanted to spend time with. But now that I have that world created, I don’t need to do that

anymore. So now I can just write a script because it’s already been set. Mr. Wolf’s Class: Field Trip debuts this October. What can fans expect? I have the class going for an overnight field trip in an old-growth forest. It’s kind of an amalgam of a bunch of different places in Oregon and Washington. It’s a combination of Opal Creek and Breitenbush Hot Springs and Oxbow Regional Park and the Olympic National Forest. If you wanted to have an author’s purpose for this book, it was I just wanted to draw old-growth forest, to make the reader feel like they were in some of my favorite places in the world. Do you have another book or project in the works? I don’t have a deal for any books other than Mr. Wolf’s Class right now, but I definitely have projects that I want to work on. I want to make a picture book about native bees. Most picture books out there are all about honeybees.

“With each new project, I have to start with sketching. That’s really important because I have to imagine the world, because comics and graphic novels are primarily visual.” — Aron Nels Steinke, author and teacher


BOLD AND BEAUTIFUL Big beers tend to be special releases and aren’t always available. If you find them, buy at least two, one to drink now and one to share down the road. The examples of Oregon’s finest below may be hard to find, but are worth seeking.

Big, Boozy Beers of Oregon written by Jeremy Storton | illustrated by Maggie Wauklyn “WANT TO TASTE something really interesting?” I asked. My buddy liked beer, but isn’t quite as into it as I am. “Sure,” he replied. I reached deep into my cellar for this extraordinary bottle. It was a barley wine/ braggot, a half-beer, half-mead monstrosity that registered at 16.9% ABV. I poured two small snifters and inhaled as the complex aroma shot out as if from a jet engine. He took a drink, then gasped. The first sip had the smooth burn of a high-end whiskey served neat. The beer then morphed and took on the character of a really intense but balanced port. “That’s beer?” he asked. I smiled and took another swig. Big beers such as Russian imperial stouts, braggots and barley wines tend to be boozy, usually north of 10% ABV. They’re often barrel-aged, which coalesces and tempers the flavors like a simmering stew. These beers are among the few that benefit from age and therefore are meant to be savored, not for their strength but for their intense complexity. If we let these beers breathe and warm up a bit, we can expect flavors such as toasted sweet bread, vanilla, caramel, toffee, coffee, chocolate, dark dried fruit, citrus, pine and zesty alcohol that warms without the burn. Big beers are ubiquitous, but often passed over, perhaps because they have a way of ending a Friday night way too early. But they’re pensive beers, and brewers like to dabble in something contemplative once in awhile. The path to boozy beer bliss is fairly straightforward. Plan rides, gather your friends and pour the beer into snifters. Try serving them with nuts, dried fruits and funky cheese like Stilton or briny Manchego. They are especially delicious with groove music and good conversation.

Cocktail Card recipe courtesy of Dogwood Cocktail Cabin (Bend)

Dillicious 22          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

•  1 teaspoon fresh dill •  1 egg white •  1½ ounces Lillet Blanc •  1½ ounces Aria gin

Orange Giant Barley Wine | 12.5% ABV Ecliptic Brewing Delicious and hop-assertive, this American barley wine makes the holidays a bit merrier. Rolling Thunder Imperial Stout | 14.4% ABV Rogue Another beer that rocked my world, it’s an imperial stout aged in Rogue’s own barrels, soaked with Rogue’s own whiskey. Darth Vator | 10% ABV Standing Stone Brewing Co. A dark Doppelbock released last fall to much acclaim. It may be the lowest ABV on the list, but beware the power of the dark side. Rhino Suit | 12.4% ABV Alesong Brewing & Blending An imperial milk stout that often sees delicious variations such as raspberries, coffee or Mexican chilies.

Belgian Dark Strong | 10% ABV pFriem Family Brewers One of my favorite styles, this one comes in regular and Cognac barrel-aged, available around fall. Massive | 14.3% ABV Gigantic Brewing Co. More of a malt-forward, British-style barley wine that is the dog’s bollocks! Matryoshka | 12.75% ABV Fort George Brewery For me, heaven smells like coconuts and a brewery. This beer gets me halfway there. Black Butte Cubed | 14.1% ABV Deschutes Brewery Deschutes always has something big and delicious available. My latest favorite is the Imperial Black Butte Porter aged in Black Butte whiskey barrels.

•  ¼ ounce simple syrup •  ¼ ounce fresh lemonlime juice

Put all ingredients in shaker without ice and dry shake vigorously for 30 seconds. Add ice to shaker and shake again for 30 seconds. Strain into coupe glass, garnish with sprig of fresh dill or lemon twist, and enjoy.

MARCH | APRIL 2020

All Worked Up Wheat Wine | 12.5% ABV Crux Fermentation Project Wheat wines are so rare they are mythical. This one is aged in Chardonnay barrels, probably to prove that beer and wine can be the best of friends.

Elijah Aikens

Beerlandia

Big & Grizzly | 16.9% ABV Ordnance Brewing This is the barley wine/ braggot that rocked my world. Tell Ordnance we want Big & Grizzly back.


Avion Water Company Presents

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food + drink

CRAVINGS: RA RA RAMEN

John Valls

HAPA PDX

Learn all about butchery at Montinore Estate’s Maialata.

Gastronomy

3848 SE GLADSTONE ST. PORTLAND www.hapapdx.us

MUGEN NOODLE BAR

Maialata

written by Jen Stevenson TEMPTING AS IT IS to spend all your blustery March weekends holed up in the den watching season seven of “Chef’s Table,” bundle up and burrow deep into Willamette Valley wine country for the eighth annual Maialata at Montinore Estate, a full day of pork, pinot and foodie fellowship. Inspired by the Northern Italian tradition of small farm towns coming together for a long day of helping each other butcher and preserve their pigs before joining in an exuberant evening feast, Oregon’s version of this classic “festival of the pig” is put on every March by James Beard Award-nominated Nostrana chef-owner Cathy Whims and Montinore owner and viticulturist Rudy Marchesi. The itinerary is as expertly crafted, not to mention palatable, as a Nostrana menu. Cup of freshly brewed Caffé Umbria coffee in hand, start the day with an in-depth Tuscan-style porchetta-making demonstration by dynamic Chianti native Dario Cecchini, one of the world’s most famous butchers (and “Chef’s Table” subject—season six, episode two), before digging into a lavish farm lunch by Portland culinary and creative collective The Nightwood Society. Well fed and warmed by a glass or two of Montinore Estate pinot noir, break out into handson butchery, salt preserving, and sausage and pasta-making workshops led by some of the region’s best chefs, including Rick Gencarelli of Grassa and Lardo fame, Nostrana’s Rob Roy, Burrasca’s Paolo Calamai, The Nightwood Society head chef Sarah Schneider, and expert forager and chef Eric Bartle, who hails from nearby Carlton’s charming Abbey Road Farm bed, breakfast and winery. The day’s work and play culminates in a joyful multicourse wine cellar feast, where old and new friends alike dip their spoons into bowls of traditional zuppa imperiale, twirl forkfuls of homemade pasta drowned in slow-simmered sugo all’amatriciana, and pass platters of rich porchetta, fresh sausages and tender pork ribs, washed down with free-flowing biodynamic Montinore wines. After scoops of Sandro Paolini’s ethereal Pinolo gelato and a cup of espresso, it’s time to head home and plan your summer sabbatical in Panzano. www.maialatapdx.com

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Sarah and Michael Littman’s popular rolling ramen truck spent six years on the food cart circuit before transitioning to a bright corner spot in SE Portland’s laid back Gladstone neighborhood, where the fun Japanese-Hawaiian fusion menu features shoyu, tonkotsu and miso mushroom ramen (try the G-Special with pork belly nuggets, shiitake mushrooms, and spicy sprouts) alongside shoyu-ginger-marinated karaage, jalapeño-spiced salmon poke, and garlicky ahi poke.

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Beyond the strip mall façade, there’s plenty to see here, from the Oregon-themed anime wall mural and paper cranes perched atop the wooden bar, to the lacy bonito flakes dancing over just-made orders of piping hot takoyaki. Chef-owner Tai Prasertyotin’s menu spotlights local ingredients—each bowl of rich and creamy paitan is prepared with Portlandbased Umi Organic’s fresh ramen noodles, sake pairings hail from Forest Grove’s SakéOne, and the shoyu ramen is made with Willamette Valley’s Freddy Guys hazelnut broth. 10115 SW NIMBUS AVE. TIGARD www.mugennoodlebar.business.site

MIYAGI RAMEN Yet another tasty addition to Bend’s buzzy Box Factory, this hip little ramen shop is drawing noodle lovers in droves. The simple menu slings four types of ramen, from a spicy miso swimming with pork belly and minced pork to the veganfriendly smoked shiitake cashew, all made with noodles from lauded L.A.-based Sun Noodle. Start or end your slurp session with the fresh shiso-sprinkled compressed watermelon and crispy pork belly salad or chicken katsu-stuffed steamed buns with barrel-aged sriracha. 550 SW INDUSTRIAL WAY BEND www.miyagiramen.com

HIRO RAMEN Choose your own adventure at this cozy downtown Ashland ramen shop, where navigating the nifty illustrated menu is as easy as 1-2-3. Choose your broth, then your protein, then the toppings—while each bowl comes with corn, bean sprouts and an egg, get creative with extras, which range from bamboo and broccoli to kimchi and crispy onions. Start with an order of crispy fried chicken karaage or takoyaki, or try the bibimbab bowl. 11 N 1ST ST. ASHLAND www.facebook.com/hiroramenashland


food + drink

BEST PLACES FOR

PRETTY PRIX FIXE Tucked in a tiny, white-walled space behind SE Belmont’s happening Hat Yai restaurant, chef Vince Nguyen’s serene modernist sanctuary needs no wall art. All sensory stimuli comes from the $85 tasting menu’s parade of picturesque plates, like fresh briny Pacific oysters topped with paper thin squares of turnip and daikon radish, nests of beef tendon, chanterelles and roasted squash in a quince and tendon stock “tea,” and frozen bay leafinfused lime meringues topped with ruddy persimmon preserves. 605 SE BELMONT ST. PORTLAND www.berlupdx.com

ROSMARINO OSTERIA ITALIANA Chef-owner Dario Pisoni’s $95 five-course weekly wine dinners— served Thursday through Saturday—are a festival of Northern Italian fare, with lineups like silky pumpkin and cannellini bean soup, slow-braised wild boar, and roasted hazelnut cream cake. On Friday and Saturday nights, you’ll share the communal table with fellow food lovers, and while Friday night’s menu spotlights Oregon winemakers, Saturday is all about Italy. Or drop in for a lunchtime bowl of porcini risotto, Sunday’s more casual pizza and gnocchi menu, or the Monday night special.

Jeremy Fenske

BERLU

Icelandic staples are on the menu at Dóttir.

Dining

Dóttir written by Jen Stevenson

If you love Paris in the springtime, get that much closer with a bottle of Loire Valley rosé and the chef’s tasting menu at Laura Hines’ and Joseph Kiefer-Lucas’s cozy Eugene bistro. For a budget-friendly $35, feast on a sampling both on and off menu, from fresh oysters, frog legs and bone marrow to a wild mushroom tart with Dijon cream, filet mignon with delicata squash and classic duck confit. Finish with a simple chocolate pot de crème.

PERHAPS YOU’VE DREAMED of trekking around Iceland gazing at glaciers, watching whales and waterfalls, snapping selfies in the Blue Lagoon and feasting on smoked sheep’s head, lamb hot dogs, geothermally baked rye bread, and other local delicacies (with the possible exception of hákarl, a.k.a. rotten shark). Perhaps you’re nostalgic for that perfect piece of cod you had at Tjöruhúsið. Perhaps you want to take refuge from the spring rains in a beautifully renovated historic Portland hotel lobby while sipping a skyr-spiked Reyka vodka cocktail. Whatever floats your Viking boat, Dóttir—the Nordic-meets-Northwest restaurant that opened last fall in Reykjavík-based KEX Hotel’s new Portland outpost—is here for you. While the KEX culinary program is overseen by director Ólafur Ágústsson, formerly of Dill in Reykjavík—the first Icelandic restaurant to earn a Michelin star—the Portland kitchen is run by executive chef Alex Jackson, an alum of San Francisco’s Michelin-starred Sons & Daughters. When Jackson isn’t busy fermenting, pickling, drying and smoking in true Icelandic fashion, he’s turning out skewers of smoked mussels wrapped in housemade pickles and set in horseradish aioli, slabs of “Surf + Turf” smørrebrød crowned with crispy pork belly and curls of fried calamari, thick wedges of roasted cabbage nestled in celery root purée and whey caramel, blocks of silky sunchoke gratin, and flaky roast cod alongside a tumble of root vegetables, wild mushrooms, grilled scallions, and charred flatbread, an Icelandic culinary staple. After a hearty meal and a few after-dinner rounds of draft Cosmos or Aalborg Taffel Aquavit and Clear Creek Pear Brandy-graced Swan Dress cocktails at the stunning oval bar around which the hotel’s ground floor orbits, you may just be tempted to get a room, if only to take advantage of the cedar sauna in the basement … not to mention Dóttir’s sumptuous Scandinavian-style breakfast spread, sure to sate even the most ravenous Viking.

1530 WILLAMETTE ST. EUGENE www.barpurlieu.com

100 NE MARTIN LUTHER KING JR BLVD PORTLAND www.kexhotels.com/eat-drink/dottir

714 E 1ST ST. NEWBERG www.osteriarosmarino.com

MAS Weaving wild-foraged and meticulously sourced Pacific Northwest ingredients with Asian technique, Southern Oregon chefs Josh Dorcak and Luke VanCampen delight diners with exquisite bites like radish and herb-topped sea urchin, oyster and spring asparagus tartlets, and chunks of sweet red king crab meat glazed with koji butter, wrapped in Napa cabbage and served in a pool of miso-rich crab butter. Book the $130 ten-course tasting menu at the eight-seat chef’s counter, or a pared-down sixcourse version in the dining room. 141 WILL DODGE WAY ASHLAND www.masashland.com

BAR PURLIEU

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farm to table

Matthew Kilger searches for chanterelles in the woods about 15 minutes southwest of Eugene. Kilger usually picks between 15 and 20 pounds of chanterelles.

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farm to table

Farm to Table

Foraging For Fungi Matthew Kilger’s chanterelles are a Pacific Northwest staple written by Sophia McDonald photography by Eugene Pavlov EATING OREGON LLC’S Matthew Kilger was 3 years old the first time he foraged for wild mushrooms. The story takes a predictable route—his mother panicked when she realized he’d put an unknown fungus in his mouth, and the next thing down his throat was a dose of ipecac syrup, which produced a result so unpleasant he remembers it to this day. So it may not come as a surprise that Kilger was 17 before he started looking for wild mushrooms again—this time armed with a field guide. Foraging was a hobby first, but has been a successful side hustle for the past fifteen years. On his regular trips into Oregon’s forests, one of the main fungi he collects is the Pacific golden chanterelle, the state’s official mushroom. “Out here in the Pacific Northwest, it’s like shooting geese in a Dixie cup,” he said. “It’s the easiest mushroom to find and identify positively.” Chanterelles, like other mushrooms, are the fruits produced by the fungi that form a symbiotic relationship with a tree’s complex and farreaching root system. These particular mushrooms are most likely to sprout under the state’s native trees, including Douglas fir, spruce and hemlock. They tend to grow in dense clusters, which is one of the things that makes them easy to spot, if you know what you’re looking for. “They’re a beautiful orange and they don’t hide well,” Kilger said. “They might be under duff, so you look for lumps.” Chanterelle season begins in earnest in September and typically goes into November. Mushrooms are commonly hunted on public lands, and people who plan to sell them are required to buy a permit. On a day when he’s collecting, Kilger will leave his Eugene-area home in the morning and drive to one of his favorite picking spots. Most are less than an hour away. “For a professional picker to pick 200 pounds of mushrooms in a day is not unheard of, nor is that a huge feat,” he MARCH | APRIL 2020

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farm to table

Kilger said chanterelles’ orange color makes them stand out.

said. His typical haul will more likely be 15 to 20 pounds—just enough to eat and sell to a select group of friends and chefs. Kilger finds the process of hunting chanterelles and other mushrooms very satisfying. “It’s time out in the woods, which is therapeutic in and of itself,” he said. “It’s getting to see places and things that most people don’t, and finding food that’s out of the reach of many people because they don’t understand it or take the time to learn it.” The most frustrating part of his business is having to compete against people who illegally gather mushrooms without a permit and can undercut him on price. Forest fires can cause road closures, which is a nuisance, and there’s always the chance of getting lost or injured in the woods. But Kilger has overcome bigger obstacles before—see the beginning of the story—and has no doubt that the reward of fresh mushrooms is worth working around any barriers in his way. Dr. Joey Spatafora, distinguished professor and head of Oregon State University’s Department of Botany and Plant Pathology, said the combination of climate and host species makes Oregon an ideal place for wild mushrooms. Although the same can be said for other Pacific Northwest states, one of the things that makes Oregon notable in the mushroom community is the breadth of interest. “A lot of people here like to go out into the forest and collect. Not just individuals but families,” Spatafora said. “We have very active amateur societies.” The Mushroom Festival at Mount Pisgah Arboretum in Eugene is the largest mushroom festival in the country. People interested in hunting mushrooms should learn how to properly identify them. There are a few “false” species that 28          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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will cause gastrointestinal upset if eaten. Also, look into the requirements for foraging on public lands. Although collecting them for personal use is typically free, harvest volumes and permit prices vary depending on the forest. “You want to do it legally and you want to do it in a sustainable way, too,” Spatafora said. “If you get into an area and you see hundreds of chanterelles, that doesn’t mean you should pick hundreds of chanterelles.” Kilger likes to sauté chanterelles in butter and garlic and serve them over venison steak, or put them in pierogis or cream of mushroom soup. “You can do all kinds of things with chanterelles,” he said. “The nice thing is they’re not mushroomy flavored. They’re sort of a meaty, more fruity flavor. A lot of people say it’s apricots, but I see it more as pumpkin or other squash.” If soup sounds like it would hit the spot on a cold winter day, try the recipe from Mary Hinds and Michael Barefoot with Nicoletta’s Table & Marketplace in Lake Oswego. Another comfort food option is chanterelle mushroom, brie and hazelnut toast. The dish was created by chef and co-owner Andrew Francisco of George + Violet’s Steakhouse, a favorite destination in Springfield’s up-and-coming downtown. Sascha Lyon, the chef at King Estate in Eugene, recommends pairing chanterelles with roast chicken, garlic mashed potatoes, fava leaves and thyme jus. Another fancy meal option is Parisienne gnocchi served with roasted mushroom, Dungeness crab, miso butter and fish sauce caramel. The recipe comes courtesy of chef Heather Kintler with Restaurant Normandie, a Portland eatery that draws its inspiration from the coast.


farm to table Kilger sells chanterelles to friends and chefs.

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farm to table

Chanterelle Mushroom, Brie + Hazelnut Toast

George + Violet’s Steakhouse / SPRINGFIELD Andrew Francisco SERVES 6 •  1 baguette •  Extra-virgin olive oil •  Kosher salt •  Fresh ground black pepper •  ½ pound fresh chanterelle mushrooms •  1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced into half moons •  2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced •  4 thyme branches •  1 tablespoon butter •  1 teaspoon apple cider vinegar •  8 ounces Brie cheese •  ¼ cup toasted and roughly chopped hazelnuts

Nicoletta’s Table elevates a classic with Cream of Chanterelle Soup.

Oregon Recipes

The Magic of Mushrooms Cream of Chanterelle Mushroom Soup

Nicoletta’s Table / LAKE OSWEGO YIELDS 8 CUPS •  2 pounds fresh chanterelle mushrooms •  2 tablespoons shallots, finely minced • 1⁄4 cup onion, finely chopped • 1⁄4 cup celery, finely chopped •  2 tablespoons sweet butter •  2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil •  1 tablespoon fresh thyme, finely chopped • 1⁄4 cup dry sherry •  4½ cups chicken stock (or vegetable stock) •  2 cups heavy cream •  2 teaspoons Kosher salt • 1⁄2 teaspoon ground black pepper

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Clean the mushrooms of any excess debris and pine needles by gently brushing the mushrooms using a vegetable brush or a clean soft cloth. Gently tear the mushrooms into 1⁄2-inch wide lengths. In a heavy-bottomed, 6- to 8-quart pot, melt the butter and add in the olive oil over medium heat. Add the mushrooms, shallots, onions, celery and thyme and stir occasionally until everything is wilted and soft, without allowing the vegetables to color. Turn up the heat to mediumhigh, add the salt and pepper, then deglaze the entire mixture with the dry sherry. Add the chicken stock and heavy cream and bring to a simmer. Allow to simmer for approximately 30 minutes. Check the seasonings and adjust as necessary.

Find Normandie’s Parisienne Gnocchi with Roasted Chanterelles, Dungeness Crab, Miso Butter & Fish Sauce Caramel at www.1859oregonmagazine.com

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FOR TOAST Slice baguette on a sharp bias into six pieces, about ½-inch thick. Brush both sides of baguette generously with olive oil and sprinkle a little salt on each side. Bake baguette slices at 400 degrees for 6 to 10 minutes, until golden brown on top and soft and chewy in the middle. FOR MUSHROOMS Clean mushrooms with a pastry or fine-bristle brush until all dirt and foliage is removed. Sometimes lightly peeling the stem and scraping the underside of the mushrooms with a paring knife is necessary. Using your fingers, tear mushrooms into medium-sized pieces. Heat a large sauté pan on medium-high heat, then add 1 teaspoon olive oil. Add mushrooms in a single layer to pan, and do not stir or turn down the heat. Stir once until mushrooms are medium soft, then use a spoon to place mushrooms on a plate. Turn heat to medium, add shallots and sweat for 2 to 3 minutes. Add garlic and stir, then add butter, thyme and the cooked mushrooms back to pan. Add apple cider vinegar, stir well and season with salt and fresh cracked black pepper. Transfer all contents to a bowl and leave at room temperature. FOR PLATING Cut cheese into 6 pieces of slightly more than 1 ounce per piece, then carefully spread on baguette slices. Top each cheesy toast with mushrooms, discarding thyme branches. Sprinkle hazelnuts on top of the mushrooms, then enjoy at room temperature or slightly warm.


MENS • WOMENS • KIDS • CLOTHING • SHOES • GIFTS

CLOTHING STORE

BRINGING OUR TRAVELS HOME TEXTILES • RUGS • QUILTS • BLANKETS • PILLOWS • COPPER

HOOD RIVER, OREGON


farm to table

Homegrown Chef

Origin of the Species written by Thor Erickson photography by Charlotte Dupont THUD, THUD, THUD! The knock on the door reverberated as I took my first sip of morning coffee. It was around 7:30 a.m. on a damp October Sunday. At the door was my friend and colleague Julian Darwin. “Good morning, Chef!” he exclaimed with urgency. “Get your things, we’re going into the forest.” “What? Why?” I asked. “For chanterelles, of course!” he announced, his British accent elevating it to a proclamation. I put my coffee in a thermos, put on my boots and coat, and we were off. Julian, more than just a chef, has been a mentor to me in many ways. He introduced me to the world of teaching. Before that, our culinary paths crossed, and we’d worked together. European trained, he is an old-school chef with the same work ethic and ideology I learned during my early years in the industry. Uncharacteristic of many chefs of his generation, Julian is kind, optimistic and even-tempered. We found great comfort in talking for hours about classic preparations like sole d’Egmont, blanquette de veau, or a properly prepared mushroom duxelles. He is forever passionate about great food, great ingredients and the relentless pursuit of them. “Where are we going for these chanterelles?” I asked. “If I told you, I’d have to kill you.” he replied with a Bondlike chuckle. Most mushroom foragers never reveal their secret locations. We headed over the mountains to the western slope of the Cascades. Turning from the highway, we took an unmarked road winding deep into the forest. As we left the car, I immediately noticed the forest floor was like a beautiful, thickly padded carpet, a dream to walk upon. The years of decay were fragrant as occasional wafts of steam rose from the ground to meet the intermittent rain. Julian, long-legged and spry, bounded off into the forest, yelping loudly at every golden, funnel-shaped mushroom he found. It took awhile for my eyes to adjust, but soon the yellowwhite mushrooms pushing up the soil became easier to spot. I soon had more of these mycological treasures than I could carry. A couple of hours had passed quickly as I became hypnotized staring at the lush ground. Julian’s voice broke the spell as he called in the distance that it was time to go. As we traveled home, the heady fragrance of the chanterelles filled the car, prompting us to fantasize about the wonderful things we’d prepare with them. 32          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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Chanterelle mushroom compound butter works on meat, vegetables and bread.


farm to table

Chanterelle Mushroom Compound Butter MAKES 12 PORTIONS •  8 ounces chanterelle mushrooms •  10 ounces unsalted butter at room temperature •  1 clove garlic •  1 shallot •  4 sprigs thyme •  Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste •  Vegetable oil for sautéing Clean the chanterelle mushrooms of foresttype debris and finely chop garlic and shallot. Heat oil in a sauté pan over medium-high heat and sauté chanterelles for approximately 2 to 3 minutes. Then add garlic and shallots and cook until they are translucent, approximately 4 minutes more. Remove from heat, add fresh thyme and let cool. Finely chop sautéed chanterelle mushroom mixture and mix with room-temperature butter. Season with salt and pepper. To store chanterelle butter, form into a log and roll it in parchment paper or plastic wrap, twisting both ends to make the shape, then store in the fridge or freezer. This versatile compound butter can be enjoyed on grilled meats such as ribeye steak, steamed vegetables or simply spread on warm bread.

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home + design

Reaching For Higher Ground Oregon universities combine high design and sustainability in three new builds written by Melissa Dalton

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Hannah O’Leary/OSU-Cascades

home + design

AT LEFT Portland State’s Karl Miller Center emphasized places for students to congregate. ABOVE OSU-Cascades’ Tykeson Hall is an all-purpose building.

OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY-CASCADES

Brad Feinknopf

Tykeson Hall WHEN BORA ARCHITECTS DESIGNED the first academic building on Oregon State University’s new Cascades campus in Bend in 2014, the firm drew inspiration from an efficient, and uber-handy, object: the Swiss Army knife. Why? The footprint of the new building, Tykeson Hall, is relatively small–just 45,000 square feet–yet it would accommodate many academic and programming needs on the growing campus. (A dorm and dining hall were built simultaneously.) Requirements included classrooms of all sizes, from science labs to an eighty-person auditorium, a library and computer lab, student council space and administrative offices. Equally important and ambitious is OSU’s goal to ensure future Cascades campus operations will be net-zero, meaning it produces as much energy as it consumes, balances water supply and demand, and eliminates landfill waste. Toward that end, Bora specified Tykeson Hall to be net-zero ready, with a robust building envelope that reduces energy consumption and loss, and a roof primed for solar panels.

As this was the campus’s inaugural building, the Bora team could take liberties with the aesthetic. “We knew they did not need it to look like it was a building from Corvallis. It could be different. So, with that in mind, we looked to the landscape,” architect Brad Demby said. The bulk of the three-story exterior is covered in sandy-hued cement panels with recycled content. Cedar cladding distinguishes the ground floor entrances and a third-floor deck and trellis. Much like the peeling bark of a Ponderosa pine, the cedar appears revealed from beneath the cement panel skin, and the wood’s orange hue is a subtle reference to the school colors. Inside, artful wall installations of acoustic panels, custom plywood furniture and bright orange wayfinding signs warm the industrial character of exposed structural steel. “The idea was to set the tone, so to speak–not dictate 100 percent of everything [that followed]–but to maybe define a sort of Central Oregon modernist approach toward building that is a little different from other parts of the state,” Demby said. MARCH | APRIL 2020

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Brad Feinknopf

PORTLAND STATE UNIVERSITY

Karl Miller Center Rumor has it that a few short years ago, students at Portland State University’s School of Business took breaks between classes in their cars. The program’s enrollment had physically outgrown its designated building, a dull 1970s-era structure that only had dimly lit hallway floors for hangout space. According to Mark Fujii, senior project manager in PSU’s Capital Projects and Construction group, it was widely known that the old building did a poor job of representing the business school’s reputation. “Scott Dawson was the dean for many years and solicited feedback from multiple students and faculty during his tenure,” Fujii said. “They often remarked that PSU has a great MBA program but, ‘It’s like trying to serve caviar out of a tuna fish can.’” Between 2014 and 2017, the School of Business undertook an ambitious redesign led by the German firm Behnisch Architekten, alongside local outfit SRG Partnership. The original structure was gutted and rebuilt, and received a new window pattern, a reorganized interior floorplan, and a more energy-efficient, metal façade. In an empty lot beside the old building, the team installed a cantilevered, glass and cedar “pavilion” that houses fifteen state-of-the art classrooms. They then knit the two structures together with a 90-foot-tall glass atrium which cants to dramatic effect on the Sixth Avenue-facing block. Now, natural light pours inside even on gray days, a far cry from having to sit in a car on lunch break. 36          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

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PSU implemented a green building standard in 2004, and now aims for LEED Gold in all new construction. The Karl Miller Center, so-named for the grandfather of lead donor Rick Miller, a local entrepreneur and former business school alum, surpassed that expectation and was certified LEED Platinum. Its measures include passive cooling strategies in the atrium, stormwater management via five eco-roofs, and low-flow fixtures that reduce water consumption by 43 percent. Most importantly for college life, there’s now a bevy of hangout spots, such as two of the eco-terraces, and the atrium’s builtin work bars with charging stations. Three retailers on the main floor serve doughnuts and craft beer from local chains. “It’s such a popular building now,” Fujii said, “that classrooms are actually requested by other departments.” OREGON BACH FESTIVAL AND UNIVERSITY OF OREGON

Berwick Hall Berwick Hall is a part of the University of Oregon’s School of Music and Dance and the permanent home for the Oregon Bach Festival. Casual observers see a building composed of two main components: a two-story brick administration wing joined by a taller, cubic rehearsal room clad in tongueand-groove Accoya wood panels. But to its music-loving occupants, the building is a source of both creature comfort and artistic inspiration.


home + design

UNIVERSITIES ARE GOING GREEN Past and future green university buildings from around the state. ROGUE COMMUNITY COLLEGE AND SOUTHERN OREGON UNIVERSITY As of last year, Southern Oregon University in Ashland had five buildings to claim LEED certification. (LEED stands for Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design, and is the most widely used green building rating system, run by the U.S. Green Building Council.) The first, the Higher Education Center, was a cooperative effort with Rogue Community College completed in 2008, and the first project in the Oregon University System to obtain LEED Platinum status. Hacker Architects

Berwick Hall’s walls are built for the optimal transmission of sound.

AT LEFT PSU’s new building combines two spaces with a 90-foot-tall glass atrium. ABOVE Berwick Hall allows natural light to flow from clerestory windows.

To start, Berwick Hall uses 63 percent less energy compared to baseline buildings, thanks to operable windows, daylighting tactics, and efficient mechanical systems. Furthermore, the composition of the building is “all influenced by music,” Corey Martin said, “whether it’s visually, by the arrangement and proportion of music and notes on a page, or the harmonies and mathematical wavelengths of sound.” Martin, a principal at Hacker Architects, worked with a team who all had prior experience with studio art or music–Martin is a Eugene native and was in the UO marching band. The building’s many details, from the layout of lines in the exterior Accoya paneling to the burnished, FSC-certified wood used inside, express musicality. The centerpiece of this approach is the double-height recital space with walls shaped precisely for transmitting sound. The bottom sections remain flat, while the top portions are curved and “pulled back” at the corners. Optional acoustic banners can be deployed, depending on occupants’ needs. Natural light scaffolds down via skylights and clerestory windows, keeping musicians in touch with the day without distracting them with street views. At the same time, a single picture window overlooks a garden to provide a visual break during intense practice sessions. “The recital space is in some ways both a piece of architecture, a piece of art, and a large-scale musical instrument,” Martin said, noting that upon completion of construction, a master acoustician spent a week tuning the room to perfection.

OREGON HEALTH AND SCIENCE UNIVERSITY, PSU AND OSU In 2014, PSU, OSU and OHSU teamed up to transform a former brownfield site into the LEED Platinum-certified Robertson Life Sciences Building in Portland. With 3,000 students from the three different institutions passing through the doors daily, an impressive 67 percent of occupants arrive via public transit, walking or cycling–just one of the reasons the AIA National Committee on the Environment (COTE) named it a Top Ten Green Project in 2015. UNIVERSITY OF OREGON Originally built in 1950, the Erb Memorial Union is the student center on the Eugene campus. SERA Architects wrapped a renovation and addition to the building in 2016, preserving some of the old structure to blend with a new, much more energyefficient envelope that achieved LEED Platinum certification. OREGON STATE UNIVERSITY-CASCADES The university’s fourth building, presently called Academic Building 2, will be the first constructed on the site’s reclaimed pumice mine, a 100-foot-deep pit that, once filled, will add 46 acres to the campus. The building, being designed by SRG Partnership, will incorporate regionally sourced timber and a net-zero energy target, and is slated for completion in the fall of 2021.

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home + design

Enduring Oregon Designs As the saying goes, reduce, reuse, recycle— and use these state-made goods again and again

In 2018, two friends teamed up to start a Kickstarter campaign for the Oregon Blanket—a modern take on historic Oregon iconography. The heather gray wool blanket features a re-creation of the state crest, heavy black double lines that represent the wagon wheel tracks of the Oregon Trail, and it’s produced by the iconic Pendleton Woolen Mills. www.84east.com

Sarah Dooley created the Eugene-based Marley’s Monsters while on maternity leave with her first child in 2013, in an effort to reduce use of disposable products and waste. Now, you too can ditch traditional paper towels in favor of the Unpaper Towels, a rainbow set of one-ply towels that can be wrapped around the paper towel dispenser and washed for easy reuse. www.marleysmonsters.com

Whether the dinner party calls for pouring water or Grandma’s whiskey punch, the handblown glass carafe from Mazama has you covered. It features an elegant silhouette with a wide brim, making it easy to add ice or stir the contents, and is topped with an eyecatching natural oak ball stopper. www.tannergoods.com

The Linden Market Tote from Thread and Whisk has flared sides for easy grocery loading, sturdy decorative straps for the heavier hauls, and is made of boxpleated canvas in six colors. Pop one in the car and look extra-chic on the next store run. www.threadandwhisk.com

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NATURAL

ATHLETES

Image: John Lund

Track & Field Champs of the Animal Kingdom

Exhibit on view March 7 through August 30 Hightail it to the museum for a track & field competition like no other. 1680 East 15th Avenue, Eugene, OR One block from Hayward Field 541-346-3024 mnch.uoregon.edu

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mind + body

Unstoppable

Jamie Brown will compete for the U.S. at the Paralympic Games in Tokyo written by Mackenzie Wilson

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mind + body

Rich Cruse

Jamie Brown competes in the 2019 Toyota USA Paratriathlon National Championships.

THIS IS JAMIE BROWN’S year. The 40-year-old lifelong athlete is heading to Tokyo in August to compete in the Paralympic Games. “I’m super pumped to represent my country on the biggest stage, and it’s going to be on TV, so the whole world can see,” he said. Born without his right fibula and only three fingers on his right hand, Brown was physically different, but his parents didn’t treat him that way. His little sister was born when he was 11 months old, so Brown jokes his parents didn’t have time to baby him, even though he was still a baby. “As a kid, I did everything, played every sport,” he said. “There was never a handicap-mindset kind of demeanor going on in my house.” After playing baseball in high school, he was recruited to play for Chapman University. His competitive spirit kept him in the game after college as a coach. Triathlons didn’t become part of Brown’s life until he was in his 30s. He had to create his own cycling leg and later got his first “running leg,” or “blade,” as it’s commonly called. It’s a prosthetic specifically designed for running because it stores energy and helps to propel the user forward, mimicking an able-bodied leg. Brown said the blade feels like having a spring on his leg compared to traditional prosthetics. “I guess the equivalent would be like if you spent your whole life walking uphill and you didn’t realize everyone else was walking downhill,” he said. Brown’s first prosthetic foot was made of cork and plaster, so recent technological advancements for the overall amputee community are staggering. “It’s like we went from being cavemen to going to the moon just in my lifetime,” he said. The paratriathlon is a newer addition to the Paralympic Games—it was introduced at the Paralympics in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil in 2016. The sprint distance race includes a 750-meter swim, a 20-kilometer bike ride, and 5-kilometer run. Brown didn’t qualify for Rio, so the games in Tokyo are his chance to compete at the highest level in his sport. Last August, he traveled to Japan with some of his Team USA coaches and teammates to train. Because the Paralympics will be held in August, Brown said it will be extremely hot and humid. That alone creates problems for someone relying on a prosthetic, including swelling and sweat. Brown took third place in the test event in Tokyo, and it helped him mentally prepare. “As far as my mindset, I know that I can perform at a high level, even with those conditions as harsh as they are,” he said. For people watching on TV in August, they likely won’t consider all the challenges athletes face in their quest for the podium, and Brown is OK with that. “We’re out doing something that, you know, visually looks completely daunting,” Brown said. “But to me, it’s the only way of life.” MARCH | APRIL 2020

Jamie Brown Athlete, Coach, Business Owner Age: 40 Born: Oceanside, California Residence: Bend

WORKOUT “I’m training for the Tokyo 2020 Paralympics in Triathlon, so lots of swim, bike and running.”

NUTRITION “I stay away from processed food and have a plan for my meals. I work out multiple times a day, so diet is critical to keep me going. I’m also diabetic, so being smart about when I have sugar is something I deal with.” Go-to foods: Beachbody Recover chocolate shakes, oatmeal or yogurt with banana for breakfast, and avocado with rice and goat cheese for a snack.

INSPIRATION “Seeing youthful amputee athletes take on the world with no consciousness that they are disabled. I’m inspired by setting goals and overcoming challenges.”

EVENTS 2020 Paralympics in Tokyo, Japan The paratriathlon will be broadcast Aug. 29 on NBC.

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artist in residence

Jo Hamilton, seen here with her crochet cityscape of the SE Portland skyline.

“I see tones as colors. So, rather than simply finding a lighter or darker shade of a particular color, I tend to use a different color entirely that does the same work tonally.” — Jo Hamilton, artist

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artist in residence

Spinning a Yarn Fiber artist Jo Hamilton creates mesmerizing crochet portraits

Kevin McConnell

written by Sebastian Zinn SCOTTISH FIBER ARTIST and Portland transplant Jo Hamilton endows yarn with the representational properties of paint. Hamilton said she wouldn’t be able to do the work she makes now if she hadn’t first painted for twenty years. Painting and drawing, she said, taught her how to express the shades of light and color she sees in real life by creating compositions from yarn. “I see tones as colors,” Hamilton said. “So, rather than simply finding a lighter or darker shade of a particular color, I tend to use a different color entirely that does the same work tonally.” Hamilton’s knotted works are also fundamentally sculptural. Each individual knot has the quality of a three-dimensional, pointillistic brush stroke, with its own form, grain and contours. The kind of “pixelation” she achieves through crochet recalls the figurative beadwork of the American and Choctaw artist Marcus Amerman. Hamilton graduated with a fine arts degree from the Glasgow School of Fine Art in 1993. After visiting Portland several times, she fell in love with the city, and moved here permanently in 1996. In the midst of writing, taking film classes and showing her paintings at bars and coffee shops, Hamilton began working at Le Pigeon as a server. In an effort to weave a part of her past into her new life, she started crocheting a cityscape depicting SE Portland’s skyline, modifying a technique she had learned from her “Gran” as a young girl. Happy with the results, she then began creating portraits of her coworkers at Le Pigeon. Her friends encouraged her to continue these experiments with portraiture, and a series depicting clients at an AIDS care facility called Our House of Portland followed. Hamilton was a weekly volunteer at Our House from 2004 through 2018, and currently volunteers at Outside In, a clinic for homeless youth, veterans and uninsured, low-income people. She loves the eccentricities of her subjects, and embraces the opportunity to memorialize their quirks in an enduring physical object. Hamilton’s peers include Judith Poxson Fawkes, also represented by the MARCH | APRIL 2020

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artist in residence

Russo Lee Gallery, a weaver with fifty years of experience who died in June 2019. Marie Watt, a textile artist, monumental sculptor, and printmaker was an early influence for Hamilton. A member of the Seneca Nation, Watt lives and works in Portland. A mutual acquaintance who worked as a studio assistant for Watt eventually introduced Watt to Hamilton’s work, and Watt later chose Hamilton’s work for a lady’s choice show at Gregg Kucera Gallery in Seattle. Working back and forth from one series to another, Hamilton likes pursuing broad themes that are open to interpretation and playfulness. She recently produced a series depicting matriarchs, and is working on another depicting “masked women.” The idea arose from the inherent duplicity of superheroes: “It’s about women presenting as one thing, while another side is not seen, not shown, and not quite believed.” Hamilton’s portraits incite us to speculate about their subject’s personal histories, potential, desires and missteps, and the blank tapestries of their futures—in short, their humanity. “Hours spent working on a particular portrait enhance the feelings you have about a person. A lot of work goes into honoring a subject’s character,” she said. Hamilton doesn’t frame any of her pieces, viewing art galleries as framing devices in their own right. “On a gallery wall, my subjects become outof-context people,” she said. “You don’t know their location or their economic status. My portraits lack those clues, and I like that gap between how you respond to an image of a person in a gallery context and how you might respond to them if you were encountering them in other contexts.” In fact, none of Hamilton’s portraits feature backgrounds, let alone context clues. By excluding backgrounds, she doesn’t allow her subjects’ identities to be reduced to their surroundings. Viewers are left only with their gazes and expressions rendered in a rich, textured palette.

Hamilton’s portraits are much like Chuck Close paintings, as abstract as they are realistic. A key difference between Hamilton’s work and Close’s is that her technique can be described as more organic. Whereas Close typically applies paint to a grid to produce a photographically realistic image, Hamilton works directly from photos of her subject without using a template. She starts by crocheting the sitter’s eyes and works outward. “Nothing is planned ahead,” she said. “I make it up as I go along.” Crochet, she said, has taught her to thrive in synchrony with imperfection. The medium demands she either feel satisfied with the results, or unravel the polychrome threads and start over, embracing a process of addition and subtraction. Rather than cutting the loose fringe around her pieces, she leaves them garlanded in loose ends. In doing so, Hamilton pushes back against the notion that an artwork must appear finished. “Being finished just happens when you decide to stop,” she said. The loose ends neatly echo the unfinished nature of every human’s personal development. Existence requires us to adapt to new careers, stages of life, technologies and cultural shifts. The soft halo of threads that frame her portraits have become Hamilton’s mimetic signature, her calling card. Producing art sustainably has been a priority for Hamilton since she graduated from art school. She has always bought or received yarn secondhand and upcycled her materials, and her yarn thrifting habits inform her artistic and consumer patterns. For her next series, she is collecting different colors of plastic bags to produce “Plarn” (plastic bag yarn) from scratch. Hamilton began brainstorming the project, which will merge human figures with the natural topography of Australia and New Zealand, for her second solo show at the Australian gallery Timeless Textiles in October. She hopes the piece will bring more awareness to rising sea levels and plastic pollution, and the interdependence between humans and our natural environment.

ABOVE, FROM LEFT “Agnes ‘Nancy’ Robb (Gran), 2018.” “Nana Neil Hamilton, 2019.” “Masks: Head and Neck Dietitian, 2016.”

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everyone needs a beach town

A place to relax, recreate, or contemplate. Ideally with a side of beer-battered cod and a locally brewed pint. Seaside is just such a place. Busting with shops and great places to eat, miles of sandy beaches and a grand promenade to stroll. So why not come and Seaside for yourself?

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STARTUP 48 WHAT’S GOING UP 50 WHAT I’M WORKING ON 52 MY WORKSPACE 54

pg. 56 John Paul is the head of Deep Roots Coalition, which advocates against irrigating vineyards.

Aubrie LeGault

GAME CHANGER 56


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startup

Sake to Me Oregon’s first and only sake producer is expanding options written by Alisha McDarris

IN THE U.S., sake is an oft-misunderstood beverage. It’s neither rice wine nor a distilled beverage. It’s brewed more like beer than fermented like wine. And it’s not always imported from far away. While many think of sake as perpetually served hot in thimble-sized mugs, there’s so much more to this complex and seemingly exotic alcohol than the stereotypes that accompany it—and America’s first craft sake producer, SakéOne in Forest Grove, is on a mission to prove it. The company is in a distinctive location to do so: right smack dab in the heart of Oregon wine country, surrounded by some of the Pacific Northwest’s renowned beverage craftsmen and women. But SakéOne didn’t always use the quality waters of the Willamette Valley in an effort to join their ranks. The company actually began as a sake importer in 1992, and in 1997 founders decided to kickstart their own brewing operation. They didn’t want to make

In 2019, SakéOne introduced canned sake.

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just any sake—they wanted to craft ginjo-grade, a premium style of the traditional Japanese beverage. When they did, they became the first sake brewery in the country to not only brew craft sake, but also mill their own rice and use a traditional cedar koji room—where sushi rice is fermented—during the production process. Other small-batch brewers have since popped up here and there around the nation, but SakéOne, a


startup

SakéOne mills its own rice and uses a koji room for fermentation.

James Beard Award semifinalist, still holds the title for the most award-winning beverages of any sake maker in the U.S. It is still the only sake brewery in Oregon. While SakéOne continues to use the highest-quality rice from California and ages-old proprietary yeast from Japan, and to maintain a strong connection to Japanese brewers and breweries, the company is also stepping outside the box to create beverages that are shaking up the market. In addition to traditional-style premium sakes, most designed to be enjoyed cold, not hot, SakéOne was the first in the U.S. to craft fruit-infused sakes. Fresh fruit flavors such as Asian pear, coconut lemongrass and cucumber mint are infused into the beverages before bottling, creating a flavorforward beverage that appeals to people without a particularly strong palate for sake, but can also become a stepping stone to the brewery’s more classic styles. That’s not where the company stopped innovating. In 2019, SakéOne also introduced canned sake to its lineup, allowing those unfamiliar with the beverage to give it a try without investing in a full bottle and offering a more portable solution (think picnics and day hikes). It’s that innovation that is helping introduce sake to the masses. “We’re finding more ways to make it intriguing and approachable,” SakéOne president Steve Vuylsteke said. That goes beyond flavor infusions and packaging to include an emphasis on education. Or SakéOne-0-1, if you like. The brewery offers tours, tastings and events (like the oncemonthly Saketini Saturdays where visitors can sample a new sake cocktail) in what Vuylsteke referred to as a grassroots

education effort. Visitors can learn about the technical process of brewing sake, its history and how it wholly differs from beer, wine or spirits, which is key to opening minds and overcoming beverage biases. “Once people understand a bit more about sake, we’re on our way to converting people to becoming more avidsakeenthusiasts,” Vuylsteke said. Not that the younger generation of alcoholic beverage consumers needs much convincing. According to Vuylsteke, millennials tend to be a more exploratory bunch and are readily warming to the fresh sake experience. Ready to dive in? Think of sampling sake like you might sample wine. “If your first experience with sake wasn’t great, maybe you didn’t have a quality sake,” Vuylsteke said. If you had a wine you didn’t like, would you give up on wine altogether? Just like with grape-based beverages, sake ranges in flavor profiles and quality and no two are alike. Likewise, if you didn’t enjoy hot sake, try a refreshing cold variety instead. And don’t make the mistake of thinking sake only goes with Japanese food. Yes, it’s great with fish, but “Sake is complementary to so many different cuisines,” Vuylsteke said. It goes with everything from fried chicken to fettuccine alfredo and everything in between, sushi and dim sum not excepted. “There are a lot of ways to enjoy it.” Fortunately, you can try many of them in the SakéOne tasting room in Forest Grove, where you can learn about the highly technical brewing process, meet the master craftsman, and tickle your tastebuds with some of the best craft sake on this side of the Pacific. MARCH | APRIL 2020

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what’s going up?

Breweries around the state continue to crop up.

New Brews Breweries all over the state continue to innovate and open new hangouts written by Sheila G. Miller IF THERE’S ONE THING you can count on in Oregon, it’s innovation in beer. This year, expect to see breweries new and old making moves. In Cascade Locks, Thunder Island Brewing Co. has broken ground on a 10,000-square-foot brewery and restaurant. It’s a real change for the brewpub that has long had a much more informal feel. This new facility, at 601 Wa Na Pa Street (very close to its current location) will have a fifteen-barrel system and a private event space. Construction got underway in August 2019, and the new facility is slated to open in summer. Meanwhile, Covered Bridge Brewing Group plans to open its brewery, beer garden and coffee shop this spring in Cottage Grove. The community gathering space, on the corner of Highway 99 and Main Street at the edge of the town’s historic district, will have local food trucks in the beer garden. The company plans to serve sodas, beers and ciders, all brewed in house, as well as Laurel Mountain Coffee, a local roaster. And in Sherwood, Trouaville Brewing expects to open a 5,000-square-foot brewpub in 2020. The brewery has been in the works for quite awhile—the owners, who operated NW Growlers in Sherwood until it was forced to close in 2017, launched the plan for Trouaville that year. The brewery plans to break ground early this year.

Thunder Island Brewing Co. has broken ground on a 10,000-square-foot brewery and restaurant.

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2020


SEVEN MILES OF BEACH. ENDLESS FUN.

With so many fun things to do, great places to eat, and oceanfront places to stay, Rockaway Beach on Oregon’s north coast is the place families love to visit.

Plan your trip at: VisitRockawayBeach.org


Kim Nguyen

what i’m working on

A Taste of Terroir A new hop terroir study could change the way we drink beer forever interview by Jeremy Storton

FOR YEARS, BREWERS have claimed the ability to taste the difference between hops grown in one place and the same variety grown elsewhere. However, beer professionals have accepted hop terroir on faith in the absence of hard data. That is until Liz Coleman, of Coleman Agriculture, had a conversation with international hop expert and Oregon State University fermentation professor Dr. Thomas Shellhammer. She asked if he knew of any documentation supporting the notion of hop terroir. He didn’t. At that moment, the seeds of a hop terroir study were sown, the results of which were harvested last fall. Coleman Agriculture partnered with Shellhammer, as well as Dr. Elizabeth Verhoeven and Dr. Shaun Townsend and independent researcher Andy Gallagher at Red Hill Soil. Not only will they continue the study, but what they have already learned may change the face and future of the beer industry. We talked to Coleman about the study. What role has Coleman Agriculture played in the storied history of Oregon hops? The Coleman family were pioneers who came out on the Oregon Trail in 1847. The family has had a long farming tradition here in the Willamette Valley ever since. Robert Thomas Coleman helped start the Oregon Hop Commission and was the first president in 1964. The Colemans have since come to be the largest grower in Oregon. What exactly is hop terroir? Hop terroir is a combination of environmental conditions, especially soil and climate in which hops are grown. Terroir gives beer its unique flavor and aroma. Understanding the history of our soils and their makeup gives us the capability to know how to best care for and manage them. We believe this understanding will help us with variety placement and the way we manage pests and diseases. 52          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Liz Coleman helped start a hops terroir study.

What did you learn from the hop terroir study? By studying the soil, the climate and the hop chemistry within four of our micro-regions in the Willamette Valley, and completing the study with a brewing analysis, we did find, in fact, that there are notable differences at the sensory level. So, we believe there is a link between hop makeup and terroir. Having said that, we’ve just begun, and from here our goal is to create a history of data while digging deeper into the ‘why.’ What happens to Oregon beer now that we have this knowledge? Regional distinction, I believe, could create a new foundation of information for brewers as they achieve greater levels of their craft. This is where it gets magical. It’s a very special day to have a brewer come out and tour the farm with our sixth-generation hop master, John

MARCH | APRIL 2020

Coleman, and our hop team. They get to have a conversation and make the connection between bine and brew. It’s a pure connection that wasn’t there before. How will this impact Oregon beer drinkers? Terroir culture and regionality already play a role in consumers’ choices for their selections, and their choices become part of the story that differentiates and defines a brand. So, very much like wine, cultivating an overall sense of place is what makes a beer crafted in Oregon different than one crafted in Germany or elsewhere. It’s that sense of place and relation, this emotional tug that we have with anything special as human beings. We all want to connect to something. And, for a drink that has connected people for centuries, having that sense of place and belonging and connection is everything.


my workspace

My Workspace

From Waste to Taste An Oregon food scientist has created a new spirit from whey written by Sheila G. Miller

Depending on where they’re located, some dairies pour waste whey down the drain, or use it for animal feed on farms. Others pull the protein from the whey to make whey protein powder. “It ends up being a big pain point,” Darchuk said.

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2020

As a food scientist and product developer, Emily Darchuk saw a problem. But she also saw a solution, and that’s the basis for her new company, Wheyward Spirit. Whey waste plagues dairies—for every 10 pounds of milk a dairy uses, it produces only 1 pound of cheese, leaving 9 pounds of whey. Darchuk had an answer for the more than 100 billion pounds of whey waste each year—turn it into a sippable alcoholic spirit.


Travis Kim

my workspace

While it’s a clear liquor, Wheyward Spirit is not vodka. “When we tried to make vodka, the distilling stripped it of all the flavor, all the things that made my product special and got me excited about making something new,” Darchuk said. “This is a different type of spirit.” She described it as sippable but with flavor notes that lend themselves to cocktails. Darchuk, who earned an MBA from the University of Oregon and a master’s degree in food sciences from Oregon State University, based the company in Eugene. It does not have its own distillery or tasting room as yet—Wheyward Spirit currently works with a partner distiller so that the money the company raises goes to the product. It is open to working with dairies throughout Northern California, Oregon and Washington.

Bottles are scheduled to be available on the West Coast this summer. The company has production figured out, has successfully raised funding for the project and is conducting tastings and other brand outreach. “I really want to try to give a voice for those consumers, and to get the dairy industry and the spirit industry to be more sustainable,” Darchuk said. “We’re starting to have that conversation and creating a platform to connect people to the food chain and help them make those kinds of choices.”

To the naysayers, Darchuk has a comeback. “We say curiosity gets you to try it, and the quality gets you to return,” she said. Wheyward Spirit has conducted product sampling with hundreds of people. “You try it, you get it,” she said. “People keep saying, ‘Oh, this is unlike anything I’ve had. It’s better.’” Dan Cronin

MORE ONLINE

Join the herd at www.wheywardspirit.com

MARCH | APRIL 2020

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game changer

Drink Deep The Deep Roots Coalition preaches non-irrigation in Oregon’s vineyards written by Daniel O’Neil | photography by Aubrie LeGault IRRIGATING IN THE green Willamette Valley seems redundant. Rain falls in abundance most of the year, and the rich clay soils make this moisture available to roots in summer. Yet a group of non-irrigation winegrowers stands out amidst the countless irrigated grapevines that have helped make the valley famous. The wines of the thirty producers forming this Deep Roots Coalition are indisputably some of Oregon’s best bottles—adherents include standouts like Brick House, Cameron, Belle Pente and the Valley’s pioneer winery, Eyrie. Natural rainfall, it turns out, has no equal in fine wine. Created at the turn of this century, the Deep Roots Coalition insists on the ancient and still-upheld European practice of not watering wine grapes. In fact, Europe’s celebrated wine regions forbid irrigation, including the Willamette Valley’s forebear, Burgundy in France. The soil science behind this guiding principle says dry farming is beneficial to the land but also to the wine, and the Deep Roots Coalition exists to spread the word. “Convincing consumers is the most critical part of the mission,” said John Paul, a Deep Roots cofounder and the man behind Cameron Winery. “Savvy wine drinkers vote with their palate.” Water conservation and wine authenticity constitute the Coalition’s main arguments. A finite resource, water requires wise conservation today, even in Oregon. “Water is the oil of the twenty-first century,” said Paul, 56          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

who holds a Ph.D in marine biochemistry. If grapes don’t need water, why waste it on them? Ecological questions aside, consider the effects of irrigation on a wine’s identity. The concept of “place” in a wine—terroir—is determined by natural factors such as soil type, climate and latitude, and it definitely includes rainfall. Terroir makes wines interesting, Paul said, “and it is very influenced by precipitation, when and how much. Introduce irrigation and you’ve wiped out the signature of the terroir.” Non-irrigated vines send roots down deep, where they tap into a wealth of minerals and water that lend complexity to the wine. Irrigated vines’ shallow root systems miss out on this treasure. Besides drowning the nuances of place, irrigation can also lead to flabby, fruit-forward wines high in alcohol. The Deep Roots Coalition prefers Euro-style complexity in a pinot noir or chardonnay. The dry method is catching on. From an initial six members, the Coalition has grown to thirty, and there’s now a waiting list to join. Paul and the Deep Roots Coalition seek to educate winegrowers around the country, convert them to dry farming, and advocate for new vineyards to be established without irrigation. Organic practices round out the Coalition’s technique, forming a holistic sustainability which is undeniably avant-garde. Open a bottle from a Deep Roots producer and it’s clear as rain: Willamette Valley wine has never tasted so pure.

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game changer

“Convincing consumers is the most critical part of the mission. Savvy wine drinkers vote with their palate.” — John Paul, Deep Roots Coalition co-founder and owner/winemaker at Cameron Winery

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Cameron Winery’s John Paul dries his work clothes on a wet day in the Willamette Valley. Deep Roots Coalition encourages wineries to quit irrigating the vines. Cameron is one of thirty members of the coalition.

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Whiskey Rebellion THESE HOMEGROWN DISTILLERS ARE MAKING OREGON A LIBATION DESTINATION written by Eric Flowers photography by Emily Joan Greene

THERE ARE MANY reasons why Oregon’s craft distilleries should be struggling. The industry is highly regulated, sales taxes are sky-high, distribution is a challenge, and competition from cheap imports and large-scale domestic producers is stiff. Yet Oregon’s small-batch spirit makers are thriving. Dozens of new distilleries have opened their doors in the past decade, bringing handcrafted local spirits to nearly every corner of the state. Like their predecessors in the wine and beer industries, small-batch distillers

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place a premium on quality over quantity, providing consumers with a handcrafted product that emphasizes experimentation. These spirits also reflect and embody the regions where they are produced, showcasing the flavors and textures of our diverse state. From Hermiston watermelon-infused vodka to heirloom rye whiskey in Madras, distillers are capturing the essence of Oregon and distilling it down for your sipping pleasure. Here’s a look at three producers taking the spirits business boldly into the next decade.


Vodka in the middle of the distilling process at New Deal Distillery.

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PORTLAND

New Deal Distillery OWNER/HEAD DISTILLER: TOM BURKLEAUX

ABOVE A bird’seye view of New Deal Distillery’s headquarters. AT RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Aaron Hemphill filters coffee for a coffee liqueur. Head distiller Tom Burkleaux. Vodka exits the filtration system. Karl Rohdin-Bibby and Trevor Hampson prepare ginger root for ginger liqueur.

THE CRAFT distilling movement has spread to nearly every corner of Oregon, but the epicenter remains in Portland, which has more than a dozen craft distilleries. Many of those are packed into a small area of the city, known as Distillery Row, a destination for connoisseurs of small-batch spirits. Tom Burkleaux has been there since the beginning with New Deal Distillery, a craft operation that started in 2001 in a space not much bigger than a broom closet. Burkleaux said he started the business at the height of the Great Recession after joking around with friends that, if things got any worse, he wouldn’t be able to afford his favorite imported vodka. He figured if he couldn’t buy it, maybe he could make it. What started on a whim soon evolved into a fullfledged business. “If I had been in L.A., nothing would have come of this. But being in Portland, we thought, ‘Why not? This is a craft town,’” he said. “We didn’t know what the path looked like, but it seemed obvious we could do this.”

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At the time, he and his partner had one modest goal—to sell a single bottle of their handcrafted spirits to just one customer. Since then, New Deal has set the bar for craft distilling and raised it time and again. Burkleaux started with vodka, a common jumping-off point for newly minted distilleries because it doesn’t require the barrel-aging process of whiskey. Almost two decades later, vodka remains a staple of New Deal’s lineup. “For me, vodka is the loaf of bread at the meal. It’s not the centerpiece, but why shouldn’t it be good?” he said. This year, Burkleaux expects to produce somewhere between 7,000 and 10,000 cases of gin, whiskey, vodka and other spirits. Burkleaux believes that New Deal will triple that number in the next few years as it expands its storage facilities and bolsters distribution around the West and beyond. “My goal isn’t to sell the brand, cash out and play golf,” he said. “I want it to be an ongoing family business.”


PENDLETON

Oregon Grain Growers Brand Distillery HEAD DISTILLER: RODNEY BULLINGTON KELLI BULLINGTON blames the weather for pulling her and her husband into the craft distilling game. Bullington was living in Washington in 2010 when her husband, Rodney, was bitten by the distilling bug. It started when he volunteered to help Woodinville Whiskey, an upstart craft distillery near their home in northeast Seattle, bottle a batch of spirits. The process is a labor-intensive operation, and it’s common for small producers to enlist the help of friends and neighbors. Rodney showed up for one of these events in a snowstorm that kept most of the other would-be volunteers away. He used the opportunity to pick the brain of the master distiller, spending several hours walking through all the nuances of the operation. “He likes to dive into stuff that he doesn’t know a lot about and learn everything,” Kelli said. Kelli joked that Rodney’s casual interest quickly turned in a casual obsession. But it took a family trip back to Pendleton to spark the idea of opening a distillery. Kelli said her husband assumed Pendleton had a distillery that produces the popular Pendleton Whiskey. But when Rodney started asking around, he was quickly informed that the only thing local about Pendleton Whiskey was the name. Pendleton Whiskey is distilled out of state and barrel-aged in Hood River. The seed of a business was planted, but it took several years to germinate. The Bullingtons eventually relocated to Pendleton, which they saw as an ideal place to raise their children. Rodney went to work for an agricultural co-op but never gave up completely on the idea of the distillery. When the co-op disbanded a few years ago, Kelli, who was working at the community college at the time, encouraged Rodney to dust off their business plan for the distillery. The couple found an ideal location in a former Cadillac dealership in downtown Pendleton. The building needed work, but also offered

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ample space and a chic Art Deco feel as well as a full basement, perfect for storing barrels of aging spirits. The entire process of securing state and federal licensing, local permits and seed funding took almost five years, during which time Rodney continued to study the art and science of distilling. In 2016, Oregon Grain Growers Distillery produced its first spirits just in time for the Pendleton Round-Up, which draws tens of thousands of visitors to the region each September. Last year, the distillery added a full restaurant onsite that features date-night and family-friendly events, such as taco battles and game nights. That’s helped to get the word out and drive traffic to the distillery. The focus, however, remains on the spirits, which Kelli describes as a natural extension of the region’s rich agricultural history. “We really try to highlight and honor the work that they do,” Kelli said. “Coming back home and being here to do this with our community has been so great.”

The focus, however, remains on the spirits, which Kelli describes as a natural extension of the region’s rich agricultural history. “We really try to highlight and honor the work that they do,” Kelli said. “Coming back home and being here to do this with our community has been so great.”


MADRAS

New Basin Distilling Company HEAD DISTILLER: RICK MOLITOR RICK MOLITOR wasn’t necessarily looking for a

second career when the then-school superintendent started kicking around the idea of opening a small distillery with a few friends in Madras. Molitor spent his career as an educator and enjoyed working in the small rural district about an hour north of Bend. The only thing that he and his partners, which includes a pair of local farmers and a professional crop-dusting pilot, knew about the spirits business was that they enjoyed a glass of good bourbon. That was enough to get them started. »

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FROM TOP Head distiller Rick Molitor prepares a machine for brewing. Distillation towers at New Basin Distilling.

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RECIPES

Happy Hour Must-Haves THREE DISTILLERIES SHARE THEIR FAVORITE COCKTAIL RECIPES

KENTUCKY CORSAGE recipe courtesy of New Deal Distillery

NEW BASIN STRONG MULE recipe courtesy of New Basin Distilling Co. •  2 ounces New Basin Whiskey •  1 teaspoon Navidi’s Honey Ginger Balsamic •  4 ounces Sprite •  1 lime wedge •  1 pinch of fresh lime •  1 large cocktail ice cube Muddle the wedge of lime and mint sprig in a copper cup. Add whiskey and honey ginger balsamic. Top with Sprite and stir.

WATERMELON CRAWL recipe courtesy of Oregon Grain Growers Distillery •  1 ounce Pic-Nic Watermelon Vodka •  1 ounce Cold Springs Mint Vodka •  1 ounce cucumber puree •  ½ ounce watermelon puree or juice •  ¼ ounce fresh lime juice •  ¼ ounce fresh mint syrup Mix all ingredients in a cocktail shaker with ice. Strain into a martini or rocks glass and top with soda water. Garnish with mint sprigs, cucumber slice and small watermelon chunk.

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•  12 ounces Distiller’s Reserve Bourbon Whiskey •  6 ounces New Deal Ginger Liqueur •  8 ounces orange juice •  4 ounces lemon juice •  4 ounces simple syrup •  12 ounces The Jasmine Pearl Caravan Tea, cold-brewed (recipe below) •  12 ounces sparkling water • 1/2 ounce The Bitter Housewife Orange Bitters • 1/2 ounce The Bitter Housewife Aromatic Bitters Combine all ingredients in a standardsized punch bowl. Serve over ice in 5-ounce cups. Makes 10-15 servings. Cold-Brewed Orange Spice Tea: Combine 3 tablespoons The Jasmine Pearl Caravan Tea loose-leaf tea with 24 ounces of cool water. Place in refrigerator overnight (10-14 hours). Strain off liquid and add to punch bowl or store in refrigerator for up to three days.


After several years of spitballing, the partners opened New Basin Distilling in 2015. The smallbatch distilling operation churns out farm-to-bottle whiskeys, gins and vodkas. The centerpiece of the lineup is New Basin’s barrel-aged whiskeys, including Molitor’s “Resignation Rye,” a farm-to-bottle whiskey fermented with a strain of indigenous local wheat. The distillery’s flagship whiskey was released on July 1, 2015, just one day after Molitor submitted his resignation to the Jefferson County School District. The move has allowed him to focus on his second career as a distiller and small business owner. “I’m an educator, so I love learning and I was really enamored with the idea of taking something from the ground and making something out of it,” he said. Roughly four years into the endeavor, Molitor, who serves as the business operations manager and head distiller, said New Basin has seen steady growth and is aiming to expand its distribution outside of Oregon. During a recent tour of the distillery and its roadside tasting room, Molitor, dressed in Levi’s jeans and plaid button-down shirt and sporting a wiry salt-and-pepper beard, offered a glimpse into the workings of the operation, which can take a batch from grain to bottle in just seven days using a 300-gallon fermentation system. The production facility sits in an industrial park outside Madras. Having worked out most of the kinks, the fermentation and distilling process is now the easy part. The

hard part is waiting for the whiskey to age, a process that can extend months or years. While most of New Basin’s whiskeys are opened around the oneyear mark, Molitor hopes to hold back a few bottles’ worth in the American oak barrels stacked neatly inside the small warehouse. As clear whiskey drained from a plastic tube attached to a copper still in the next room, Molitor offered me one of New Basin’s signature made-fromscratch cocktails, the Madras Mule, made with New Basin whiskey and locally harvested mint. As an early January wind gathered outside the door, the drink conjured thoughts of a summer afternoon on a beach, or maybe a boat. But I couldn’t help but think that this hometown rye whiskey would also be quite nice from a flask on a frigid chairlift ride. I didn’t mention it to Molitor, but I am pretty sure he’d be OK with that.

ABOVE Molitor at his Madras distillery. AT LEFT Molitor checks on a batch of whiskey in progress.

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U.S. Navy Lt. Larry Shumaker, left, stands with Lt. Don Walsh, Dr. Andreas Rechnitzer and Jacques Piccard on the Trieste.

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SEVEN MILES UNDER THE SEA THE SELDOM-TOLD STORY OF DON WALSH AND ONE OF AMERICA’S GREATEST MARINE ADVENTURES written by Kevin Max IN THE 1950s, FOLLOWING DECADES OF WAR AND GLOBAL INSTABILITY, PEOPLE AROUND THE WORLD WERE ALLOWED TO DREAM AGAIN. IT WAS THE WWII ANTEBELLUM, AND AGES OF INDUSTRIALIZATION AND OF

NH1044872 courtesy of Naval History and Heritage Command

EXPLORATION CREATED AN ERA OF PENT-UP DISCOVERY. HUMANITY WAS REDEFINING WHAT WAS POSSIBLE. In 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay summited Mount Everest. In July 1969, Apollo 11 would place Buzz Aldrin and crew on the moon. Perhaps the lesserknown daring feats of exploration came on January 23, 1960. U.S. Navy Lieutenant Don Walsh, who lives in Coquille near the Oregon Coast, and Swiss engineer and oceanographer Jacques Piccard closed the hatch on a steel structure they believed would hold against the crushing pressure of the deep ocean and deliver them 7 miles down to the floor of the deepest point of the ocean, in what would be the deepest dive in history. The bathyscaphe (pronounced bath-ehskaf ) was a pill-shaped submarine little more than 50 feet long and with a small steel sphere attached to the bottom. It came to the attention of the Navy in an unusual way, through a scientist and explorer and its creator in Switzerland. Jacques Piccard’s father, Auguste Piccard, was a physics professor, a tireless innovator, a balloonist and the inspiration behind absent-minded half-deaf Professor Cuthbert

Calculus in The Adventures of Tintin. “Star Trek” creator Gene Roddenberry reportedly named “Star Trek” captain Jean-Luc Picard as a nod to twin Piccard brothers, Auguste and Jean. Jacques Piccard’s son, Bertrand, in 2015, piloted the highly publicized first around-theworld flight in a solar-powered airplane. In fact, the Piccard family, through generations, was the epitome of the explorer scientist–all aeronauts, hydronauts or balloonists. In 1931, the elder Piccard became the first person to enter the stratosphere, where he collected data on cosmic solar rays that he would eventually contribute to the work of Albert Einstein. Auguste Piccard’s fascination with space led him to build a steel pressurized sphere that would allow him to rise into the stratosphere under a helium balloon. Soon, he realized his high-altitude sphere could be adapted for deep-sea exploration, too. In 1937, Auguste Piccard completed what he called a bathyscaphe, Greek for “deep ship”. It was shelved until after the war, and the U.S. Navy then took an interest.

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America wanted her own deep-sea vehicle and had American dollars to pay for it. The government sent an emissary to Switzerland to talk to the Piccard family and soon moved the Piccard family and the bathyscaphe, called Trieste, to San Diego to work on Project Nekton, the codename for the submersible mission that would lead to the Mariana Trench. At age 28, Walsh was at his desk aboard submarine Flotilla One when an unfamiliar face appeared. Dr. Andreas Rechnitzer, who grew up in Southern California, had graduated from the midshipmen’s school and earned a doctorate from the Scripps Institution of Oceanography. The Navy had a dangerous project and it needed just two submarine pilots to volunteer. Behind him stood a tall, thin man in civilian clothing. Jacques Piccard, a 37-year-old Swiss engineer with the explorer’s gene, would be the second and final member of the crew. “When [Piccard] did speak about the Bathyscaphe Trieste, it was with some degree of passion, but short on the florid or humor,” Walsh recalled in a recent interview. The mission would seem absurd to most onlookers—can two men in a small, submersible space go have a look around the deepest depths of the sea? “There was this collection of odd bits of metal,'' Walsh recalled. “To me, it looked like an explosion in a boiler factory. I thought to myself that I would never get into that thing …” South of Japan and north of Australia in the Philippine Sea lie the Mariana Islands, about 130 miles north of Guam. Skirting the Mariana Islands to the south and to the east is an arc-shaped scar in the ocean floor that is 1,580 miles long (the same distance as San Diego to Vancouver, BC) and an average of 43 miles across. Known as the Challenger Deep, at one point it is 35,797 feet deep–the deepest trench in the world.

35,797

FEET

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NH1041330 courtesy of Naval History and Heritage Command

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT The bathyscaphe is hoisted out of the water circa 1959. Piccard and Walsh in the cramped space of the Trieste. A fueling operation, with Shumaker on deck, in November 1959. Just before the record dive.

Walsh’s team consisted of fourteen members, whose expertise ranged from material science to mechanics to oceanography to Navy submariners–a maritime Ocean’s 11. All participants were aware it would take a tank to withstand the water pressure of the deep ocean and bring its human cargo back alive. The body of the bathyscaphe was made with steel 5 inches thick to hold out against the intense pressure of the deep sea. The deeper a vessel dives into water, the stronger the pressure to collapse it. At sea level, for example, water pushes on a body at a pressure of 14.5 pounds per square inch. The liquid in our bodies matches that pressure to be in equilibrium. For every 33 feet deeper in water, the pressure increases by another 14.5 pounds per square inch. At 15,797 feet below sea level–Challenger Deep—the pressure on a surface is 15,729 pounds per square inch, or the equivalent of three Dodge Ram pickup trucks stacked on every square inch of the vessel. Unlike today’s submarines, where its length includes living space, all but a small sphere of Trieste

THE RECORD DEPTH REACHED BY THE TRIESTE ON JANUARY 23, 1960

7.09

FEET

THE SIZE, IN DIAMETER, OF THE PRESSURE SPHERE OCCUPIED BY DON WALSH AND JACQUES PICCARD


15,729

POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH THE PRESSURE ON THE SURFACE OF THE TRIESTE AT 15,797 FEET BELOW SEA LEVEL

5

NH1044831 courtesy of Naval History and Heritage Command NH96797 courtesy of Naval History and Heritage Command

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration

was dedicated to the functional processes of the vessel. That space was a 7-foot-diameter pressure cabin. For measure, a standard bathroom is 8 feet by 5 feet. Imagine being sealed in a bathroom-sized space for nine hours with a colleague and the real likelihood of not coming out alive. The body, or pressure hull, was filled with 34,000 gallons of gasoline, a liquid lighter than water, to give the vessel buoyancy in open water and allow it to rise from the depths. Heavy iron pellets were counterpoint to the lightweight gas, and stored in two compartments on either side of the vessel. Changing equilibrium of the gas and iron pellet ballast caused the ship to rise or sink. Once at the bottom of the dive, the iron pellets would have to be slowly released to make the vessel lighter to rise slowly and eventually resurface. “Trieste was only a potential bomb if there were fumes and a source of ignition,” Walsh said. “Of course, [the fuel] burned readily. We took extreme measures while loading and unloading it.”

Back in San Diego and over the span of a few months, the Trieste crew gained confidence in its impending mission. A number of test dives off the California coast in the books, they brought Trieste to Challenger Deep in the western Pacific. God loves the pragmatic ingenuity of our predecessors. Because nautical maps were not truly accurate during this era and before sonic pulses were finely tuned, the crew took days of trolling waters and throwing dynamite overboard to divine their own conceptual map of the trench. They counted seconds by stopwatch to count the rebound echo of the explosion to the ship’s underwater monitors. The longer the delay, the deeper the ocean floor. In November 1959, they dove to 18,000 feet and set a new record. Two months later, Triestee went 24,000 feet and a new record. The vessel passed her material stress tests, and the crew was ready. Walsh and Piccard were poised to undertake one of the most daring expeditions in modern times.

INCHES

THE THICKNESS OF THE STEEL IN THE BODY OF THE BATHYSCAPHE

34,000

GALLONS

THE AMOUNT OF GASOLINE IN THE BODY OF THE BATHYSCAPHE, TO GIVE THE VESSEL BUOYANCY

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NH1073330 courtesy of Naval History and Heritage Command

The cramped quarters of the Trieste.


“NOT MANY OF US GET “We had worked 24/7 for several months at Guam doing progressively deeper test dives,” Walsh said. “We were either going to succeed or fail, but we had done all we could to ensure success.” On the day of the dive, Walsh and Piccard boarded the Trieste in a heaving sea. One team member recalled seeing sharks in the water as the men stepped from the rubber raft onto the bobbing, exposed surface of the bathyscaphe. Piccard was having second thoughts and considered postponing the dive. But Walsh, the submarine commander, was unfazed by the choppy water and persuaded Piccard not to abandon the mission. Just before the Trieste embarked on its historic mission, Rechnitzer, the project manager aboard the adjacent mother ship bobbing next to Trieste, received a radio message from higher-ups in the Navy Electronics Laboratory in San Diego, saying, “Project canceled. Come home,” Walsh said in a 2014 interview with the Office of Naval Research. Rechnitzer put the message in his pocket and asked his colleague, Chief John Michel, to have a cup of coffee with him down below. By the time the two returned to the deck, the Trieste was well underway. Rechnitzer sent back the message: “Unable to comply. Trieste passing 10,000 feet.” Inside the cabin, Walsh recalled in a Rolex documentary, it was about 40 degrees, “almost like a household refrigerator, and not much bigger than a household refrigerator.” Because of the oceanic pressure, the vessel had just one small observation window, and it was small. Below 1,000 meters, Trieste had entered the Midnight Zone, a depth at which no light pervades, only darkness. Through the blackness, Walsh recalled seeing the bizarre glowing lights of bioluminescent fish wafting slowly by, like stars in a midnight sky. At 31,000 feet, Walsh and Piccard jumped. A bang rang through the cabin like an explosion. The two men sat in apprehension below a fuselage of 34,000 gallons of gasoline, wondering if this was it. “We didn’t know what it was, but we were still alive.” Later, they found a plexiglass window in a sealed-off entry chamber had cracked and broken under the pressure. The Trieste seemed to function without complications, and continued its descent into the deepest reaches of the Mariana Trench. After five-and-a-half hours, Walsh and Piccard found what they were looking for– the absolute floor of the deepest spot of the ocean. Outside the small observation window, Piccard and Walsh saw something unexpected—a halibut-looking

TO SET GLOBAL ‘FIRSTS’, AND THERE’S SOME PRIDE IN BEING A MEMBER OF A GREAT TEAM THAT ACTUALLY DID A DURABLE FIRST.” flat fish scurrying along the floor. Aquatic life at nearly 16,000 pounds of pressure per square inch! The two men shook hands on reaching a new submarine record. A cloud of light sediment rose up from the floor when the Trieste touched down and obscured further observation. To begin their ascent, the Trieste needed to discharge iron pellets and weight. The magnetic apertures had to open under extreme pressure. Walsh released iron ballast and the Trieste slowly rose from the floor. Three hours and fifteen minutes later, two unknown men, who had sealed themselves into a tiny steel sphere in the name of exploration, emerged as heroes to cameras and reporters from Time magazine. “Not many of us get to set global ‘firsts’, and there’s some pride in being a member of a great team that actually did a durable first,” Walsh said. That same year, President Dwight D. Eisenhower invited the Trieste crew to the White House and awarded them Legion of Merit medals, for outstanding and meritorious service in the armed forces. Walsh would go on to earn a doctorate in oceanography, serve under presidents Carter and Reagan on the U.S. National Advisory Committee on Oceans and Atmosphere and be named as one of the world’s greatest explorers by Time magazine. He is an honorary faculty at Oregon State University’s College of Earth, Ocean, and Atmospheric Sciences. Since his historic dive in 1960, Walsh has been invited on the next two expeditions to Challenger Deep— the first with film director James Cameron in March 2012 and again with financier and explorer Victor Vescovo, in 2019. Jacques Piccard would continue to explore, joining a submarine mission to study the Gulf Stream and founding the Foundation for the Study and Protection of Seas and Lakes in Switzerland. He died in 2008 at age 86. MORE ONLINE

To watch the Rolex documentary of this historic dive, go to www.bit.ly/triestedocumentary

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On the Edge written and photographed by Christian Murillo CRATER LAKE NATIONAL PARK is a marvel that enjoys incredible seasonal popularity. Few people make the drive to the southern entrance of the park in the winter, which is perhaps the time of year when it is most breathtaking. Snowshoe or ski backpacking offers up to 33 miles of unspoiled alpine terrain along Crater Lake’s Rim Road. While circumnavigating the full loop may seem daunting, you can create your own out-and-back adventure of any length, and it does not take long to leave the crowds at Rim Village far behind. The snow-covered road also creates a unique opportunity to camp along the rim (at least 100 feet from the edge of the crater). You will find this camping experience revitalizing—stunning sunrise views over the lake can awaken the soul more than even the strongest cup of coffee.  Of course, you could drive along the rim in the summer, but why wait until then when you can have the whole snowy view to yourself?


FROM LEFT A sunset illuminates the snow-covered slopes above camp at the base of The Watchman. Although snowshoe backpacking requires heavier cold-weather gear than summer backpacking does, the solitude and views make the extra work pay off tenfold.

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Sleeping in is always nice, but a sunrise over a glassy Crater Lake is as good an excuse as it gets for waking up early. The views looking away from the lake are almost as beautiful as the crater itself, with Mount Shasta, Mount McLoughlin, and Union Peak glistening on the southern horizon. When the sun is out and the wind is calm, keeping the rainfly off the tent to enjoy the views is a must.

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TRAVEL SPOTLIGHT 78 ADVENTURE 80 LODGING 84 TRIP PLANNER 86 NORTHWEST DESTINATION 92

pg. 84 The interior of the The Vintages’ new trailer is a sight to behold.


travel spotlight

Vines and Views Blakeslee Vineyard Estate takes the tasting backdrop to the next level written by Valerie Estelle Rogers WANT BREATHTAKING VIEWS of Mount Hood while holding a glass of wine in your hand and relaxing in a peaceful garden overlooking estate vines? Blakeslee Vineyard Estate is just the place to unwind. In 2005, Bill and Sheila Blakeslee bought Quail Hill Vineyard and the 20 acres of estate vines. As Oregon natives, Bill and Sheila value the story of place when it comes to the wines they produce— chardonnay, riesling, rosé of pinot noir, pinot noir, white pinot. At the gateway to wine country, just twenty minutes from Portland, Blakeslee is a natural addition to any itinerary. Whether you want to begin your day of wine tasting, enjoy a slow afternoon lounging on the grass sipping wine and nibbling on cheese, or catch an early sunset (in the fall) before it closes for the day, bring a date, bring your friends, pop a cork and enjoy.

Blakeslee has plenty of spots to sit and enjoy a glass of wine.

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Award winning wines. Beautiful views. Come and enjoy our new Tasting Piazza.

20875 SW Chapman Rd., Sherwood, OR 97140 blakesleevineyard.com Open seasonally and by appointment. 503.625.6902

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adventure

Bike to Beer

Combining two Oregon passions— bikes and beer—with three urban itineraries across the state written by Jen Sotolongo WITH OREGON’S 284 craft breweries and web of cycling paths, a bike-to-beer urban adventure ride makes an ideal pairing of this state’s two beloved activities. Earning those pints by burning calories makes the beer taste even more delicious. Gather some friends and explore a few favorite beer towns on two wheels. A few tips before planning the ride: Limit consumption by asking for tasters or half pints. Don’t skip meals during the ride. Keeping the belly full helps with absorption. Bring a water bottle to stay hydrated throughout the day. Lastly, don’t ride drunk. Bicycles are considered vehicles and riders can get DUIs for riding while intoxicated.

Portland TOTAL MILEAGE: 15.2 MILES As one of the top beer destinations in the country, the hardest part of planning a ride in Portland is choosing which of the fifty-eight breweries to visit. This ride sticks to the NE and SE neighborhoods. Start in NE Portland at Great Notion’s Alberta location (1). This innovative brewery serves some of Portland’s most unique beers, such as the Blueberry Muffin Sour and the Self Portrait IPA, brewed with pineapple puree. Award-winning Breakside Brewery’s Dekum location (2) in North Portland is just a short ride away. The beloved brewery delivers on beer, ranging from bitter IPAs to barrel-aged sours. From there, pedal over to Hopworks Urban Brewery (HUB for short) (3) on Williams. Portland’s go-to bike beer pub caters to cyclists, with bike frames dangling above the bar and spare locks for those who forgot one. Next, cross over to SE Portland and stop for lunch at Base Camp Brewery (4). This spot caters to the outdoor enthusiast, and you can enjoy a fireside brew on the covered patio. With a full belly, it’s on to Gigantic (5). This small brewery with a superlative name is tucked into a small SE location near Reed College and pours some of the finest beers in the city.

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VISIT

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adventure

Eugene/Springfield TOTAL MILEAGE: 10.4 MILES Located in the fertile Willamette Valley, Eugene and Springfield take full advantage of their proximity to one of the largest hops-producing regions in the country. Coupled with a web of bike paths linking the two cities, cyclists can enjoy a mostly car-free experience.

Bend TOTAL MILEAGE: 6 MILES For the truly ambitious beer-and-bike enthusiasts, the Bend Ale Trail is just the adventure. With more breweries per capita than any other city in Oregon, Bend is fondly known as Beer Town USA. A short loop hits thirteen spots and offers a tour of Bend. Start the day at Immersion Brewing (1) in the popular Box Factory. From there, it’s a quick jaunt to nearby award-winning Monkless Belgian Ales (2). Follow the Deschutes River Trail to Cascade Lakes (3), one of the original Bend breweries. Next up, Good Life Brewing Company (4), with one of the best biergartens in Oregon. After lunch, skip over to 10

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Just off the Willamette River Path in downtown Eugene, Gratitude Brewing (1) makes an ideal launch spot. The brewery serves a wide range of beer, from NW-style IPAs to sour and barrel-aged beers. Hop on the Ruth Bascom Riverbank Path to Plank Town Brewing (2) in Springfield. This casual pub serves at least twelve house-brewed beers at any given time, including a rotating list of guest and cask-

Barrel Brewing (5), multi-time winner of best brewpub in Bend, thanks in part to its large patio. The next three downtown pubs are walking distance from one another: Bend Brewing (6), McMenamins (7), and the original Bend brewery, Deschutes (8). Sample a few tasters before departing to Silver Moon (9), located just up the road. Venture slightly off the beaten path to Boneyard (10). What began in an old auto shop has grown into a brew pub, serving some primo pours. Finally, loop back to Crux Fermentation Project (11), the ideal location to end a full day of beer cycling, and watch the sunset over the mountains from the large yard.

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conditioned ales. Stay for lunch before heading back to Eugene. Return to Eugene on Ruth Bascom toward Viking Braggot Company (3), a unique brewpub that models its beers after a fermented drink developed by the Vikings called a braggot. End the day back downtown at Claim 52. (4) This small-batch brewery prides itself on creating innovative brews like tropical-inspired and fruit-based beers.


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locally crafted Locations in

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The rich valleys of the Umpqua, with their diverse landscapes, complexity of soils, and ideal growing conditions produce more than 40 different varietals of wine grapes. Come and taste our award winning wines of distinctive quality and character as you travel through Southern Oregon. Visit our website to see upcoming events, download our mobile app,

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ROOMS

While most of the mansion’s neighboring camper compatriots retain their retrochic stylings, wood paneling and all, the Spartan Royal’s beautiful white and gray bohemian-chic design scheme—think woven bamboo light shades, spiky succulents, downy sheepskins, a leather banquette and unique ceramics—is courtesy of Tello Interiors, the acclaimed Portland interior design studio behind McMinnville’s stunning luxury boutique hotel, The Atticus.

FEATURES

Besides its spacious and stylish confines, what really makes the Spartan Royal special is the private, wood-walled patio just off the back bedroom, where a deep, open-air soaking tub is just the spot to unwind, sip tea (or something a bit stronger), and stargaze after a strenuous day of hiking, biking, laying by the pool (open June through October) and wine tasting.

DINING

The trailer’s kitchenette sports a sink, refrigerator, microwave and basic serveware (wine opener included, of course), so plan on using it to chill wine, brew coffee and make popcorn, not whip up a souffle. If the weather’s fair, fire up the patio’s propane barbecue and grill a few grass-fed steaks from Eola Crest Cattle, a family-owned farm with a small store about five minutes outside McMinnville. Otherwise, plan on a biscuits-and-gravy breakfast at Valley Commissary in McMinnville, pick up picnic provisions at Dundee’s lively Red Hills Market, and slurp Netarts Bay oysters in the sweet little adjoining cocktail bar before dinner at Thistle in downtown McMinnville.

AMENITIES

Basic toiletries, towels, slippers and terry cloth robes are provided, and the kitchenette is stocked with Newbergbased Caravan Coffee, organic Rishi tea and hot chocolate mix. The trailer has a small patio and grass area, propane barbecue and cruiser bikes, and if you’re worried about exceeding the hot water heater’s 6-gallon limit, there are extra bathrooms by the pool and laundromat. Forgot your pretzels or compass? The onsite general store—which doubles as the resort lobby—sells an eclectic array of gifts, toiletries, snacks and perhaps most importantly, plenty of local wine and beer.

Lodging

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP The 36-foot Spartan Royal Mansion is true glamping. An outdoor soaking tub is the height of luxury. The kitchenette has quartz countertops.

The Vintages Trailer Resort’s Spartan Royal Mansion written by Jen Stevenson IF YOU’VE EVER rolled past an eye-poppingly colossal camper on the highway and yearned to know what it’s like to live the palace-on-wheels life, The Vintages Trailer Resort’s sprawling 36-foot Spartan Royal Mansion lets you experience all the luxury, sans the lugging, right in the heart of the Willamette Valley wine country. The latest addition to the 14-acre Dayton RV resort’s fleet of thirty-five new and lovingly restored Mid-century travel trailers, the sleek silver 1956 Spartan’s 360-square-foot interior has been completely renovated in true glamping style, with a cushy throw pillow-heaped sofa-daybed and flatscreen television occupying the front end, plush king-size bed and private outdoor soaking tub and patio at the back, and sleek quartz countertopcapped kitchenette and full bathroom in between. Whether you wake to the steady drum of rain on the trailer roof or rays of spring sunshine streaming through the windows, fire up the electric kettle and brew a fresh Caravan Coffee pour-over, then plan your day— take a spin around the resort on one of the resident cruiser bikes, hike the Miller Woods Conservation Area trails, go antiquing in Lafayette, explore charming downtown McMinnville, or check off stops on the wine-tasting passport provided at check-in, which offers valuable complimentary or two-for-one tastings at more than a dozen nearby wineries. After dinner, but before a leisurely bubble bath in the Spartan’s private soaking tub, join your neighbors at the twinkle-lit firepit for s’mores, stories and wine tasting notes, then pour another glass of pinot noir and congratulate yourself on a successful entrance into the motorhome monarchy. 16205 SE KREDER RD. DAYTON www.the-vintages.com


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trip planner Ashland and its surrounds are Oregon’s less-celebrated—but equally delightful—wine country.

Ashland Wine Tasting Shakespeare and chardonnay, a fine pairing in Southern Oregon

THERE IS NO better place in America to combine bold wines and the boisterous Bard than in Ashland. So far south in Oregon, Ashland feels as much northern California as it does Southern Oregon. Climate doesn’t strictly respect state borders, but the climate for wine growing in Southern Oregon does have its boundaries. There are warmer Spanish tempranillos and cooler pinots, with syrahs and chardonnays in between. The stages of the Oregon Shakespeare Festival bud and bloom with wit, sarcasm, churl and charm. Spring and summer in the Southern Oregon tasting rooms and vineyards bring a full-bodied intensity with a note of drama and an air of openness. 86          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

MARCH | APRIL 2020

Mark Mularz

written by Kevin Max


Experience one-of-a kind properties and explore Southern Oregon from the center of it all. From the historic, European style charm of Ashland Springs Hotel, to mineral soaking tubs, wine garden tasting room and organic spa at Lithia Springs Resort, retro-modern ambiance and epic views at Ashland Hills Hotel & Suites, and cool 1960s motor lodge comfort at Inn at the Commons. Choose your style and let the adventure begin.

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Day

Day CLEANSE • TRAILS • THEATER Ashland’s Lithia Park is a peaceful unity of water and park and meanders with Ashland Creek down from afar to Angus Bowmer Theater on the edge of the park. This is a tranquil spot to take your morning coffee and pastry. Serenity itself comes here to sit in the mornings and listen to the babbling creek, the coo and caw of birds, the deep voice of a cellist’s song and the singsong of kids chasing bubbles. 88          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

MARCH | APRIL 2020

FROM TOP Weisinger Family Winery has a perfect tasting setting. Ashland Hills Hotel’s swank factor will impress.

Ken Royce

For visitors who have never been to Ashland, the first thing you’ll notice is the beautiful hills and rolling terrain surrounding it to the west, south and east. It’s on the faces of these hills that hundreds of acres of wine grapes form the taste profiles for Oregon’s most up-and-coming AVAs (American Viticultural Areas). The direction of the hillside—the aspect—helps determine how much sun each block of grapes gets. Ashland’s climate, its warm days and cool nights, is an ideal cycle for creating small clusters, concentrated flavors and the requisite sugars of great wines. It’s best to learn about wine in the vineyards, where you can often talk directly to the owners, the growers and the winemakers and where it’s small enough that they are often the same person. Southern Oregon has five main wine-growing areas— Applegate & Jacksonville, Elkton, Illinois, Rogue and Umpqua. For those who want a different, more concentrated, way to discover regional wines, plan your trip for the Oregon Wine Experience event, August 17 to 23, at Brigham Knoll in Jacksonville. There, you can sip your choice of hundreds of wines and across many varietals. On this day, choose just two vineyards to visit and get a more personal experience. Just south of Ashland is the Weisinger Family Winery and its very good cabernet sauvignons, syrahs and the estate tempranillo. On hot summer days, try a flight of the chilled whites: gewürztraminer, pinot blanc and viognier. Or buzz out to Irvine & Roberts, a few miles east of town on Emigrant Creek Road, for stunning views and well-made wines around outdoor gas firepits. My favorite wine from Irvine & Roberts is a pinot meunier with a blackberry finish. Head back into town for dinner with Spanish on the mind and Ostras! Tapas on your agenda. Share paella or tapas and enjoy a bottle of Southern Oregon tempranillo. If you’re lodging at Ashland Springs Hotel, plan on having at least one meal at the adjacent Larks Home Kitchen. No detail is overlooked in this farm-to-table-to-perfection restaurant. The menu changes with the seasons and the whims of chef Franco Console.

Mark Mularz

VINES • WINE • TAPAS

You can add steps and exercise by walking or running through the park and a mile up to the top of the trail to its terminus at the water treatment plant. If you plan your day correctly, give yourself time to head 30 miles northeast to Grizzly Peak Trail for a 5-mile lollipop hike with views of surrounding peaks and even the Crater Lake rim. In the Ashland area, there are countless trails for running, hiking and biking, or simply for forest bathing. One of my favorites is Toothpick Trail in Siskiyou Mountain Park, south of town and off of Tolman Creek Road. If your lodging is Ashland Hills Hotel, you can find this nearby. Besides wine, one of the state’s biggest cultural attractions is the Oregon Shakespeare Festival (OSF). The national stage for Shakespeare and contemporary theater dates back to 1935, when a determined Angus Bowmer, himself an incipient stage actor, became the lead campaigner for what would become a world-renowned cultural icon.


The Ultimate Wine Concierge Lodging

Country House Inns guests can now relax and enjoy an on-site Oregon Marketplace, featuring a spectrum of local snacks, wine, beer, cider and Kombucha from throughout our state. We are also proud to offer our Discover Oregon Wine package and wine trail featuring 15 local partner wineries. countryhouseinns.com

Jacksonville, Rogue River & Grants Pass, Oregon


EAT Amuse www.amuserestaurant.com Larks Home Kitchen www.larksrestaurant.com

Andrea Johnson

ASHLAND, OREGON

trip planner

Ostras! Tapas www.ostrasashland.com Morning Glory Cafe www.facebook.com/ morninggloryrestaurant

FROM TOP DANCIN Vineyards is an old-world Italian winery. Pallet Wine Company in Medford crushes many of the region’s grapes and has a great tasting room.

STAY Ashland Hills Hotel www.ashlandhillshotel.com Ashland Springs Hotel www.ashlandspringshotel.com Ashland Creek Inn www.ashlandcreekinn.com

PLAY DANCIN www.dancin.com Pallet Wine’s Urban Cork www.theurbancork.com Fences Wine www.fenceswinery.com Irvine & Roberts www.irvineandroberts vineyards.com RoxyAnn www.roxyann.com Weisinger Wineries www.weisingers.com Oregon Shakespeare Festival www.osfashland.org Siskiyou Trail running and hiking www.ashland.or.us Grizzly Peak Trail www.ashlandtrails.com

Skipping a play while in Ashland is akin to visiting London without seeing the crown jewels. OSF’s season stretches from the end of February to the end of October and brings to stage Shakespeare classics and reinterpretations and modern plays by new playwrights. Over its long life, OSF has brought to Ashland such notables as Bing Crosby, Duke Ellington and Brian Cranston. Make this trip a bit more global with dinner reservations at Amuse before your show. A short walking distance to the theater, Amuse serves French-inspired cuisine such as Parisienne gnocchi and truffle-roasted game hen with a curated list of regional wines. Keep the night going, and Shakespearian, after your show by popping into Oberon on Main Street for conversation, a cocktail and a late bite.

Day BREAKFAST • BATH AND TEA GARDEN

Amuse’s Parisienne Gnocchi is the perfect pre-show meal.

90          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

Morning Glory Cafe in Ashland feels like the birthplace of breakfast. Inside is bustling with breakfast fiends and waitstaff, coffee and MARCH | APRIL 2020

bright colors. Large plates of lemon ricottastuffed French toast, Alaskan red crab omelets and chorizo scrambles draw looks of anticipation, jealousy and sweet-versus-savory regrets. If you want to leave Ashland in a good place, book body work, Japanese soaking tubs and a personal pot of tea at Chozu Bath & Tea Garden. After a busy weekend of wine tasting and theater going, Chozu will leave your mind and body in a good place. Heading north out of town, there are two more compulsory stops to complete this vinified retreat. Roll north and west, taking the scenic South Stage Road. DANCIN Vineyards is an old-world Italian winery with a woodfired pizza oven, a small piazza for sipping and conversation and truly amazing wines from its estate grown grapes. DANCIN’s wine labels are further testimony to the beauty and delicacy of its wine. Then take a quick detour into Medford proper. Many of the region’s grapes are crushed at Pallet Wine Company in Medford. Pallet Wine Company’s tasting room, Urban Cork, is a great way to bring the best wines of the region together for you in an unassuming urban and industrial setting.


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“Om” Beyond Home Don’t namaste put—get away to a rejuvenating yoga retreat written by Cathy Carroll

Yoga retreats can be a profound experience.

IN A DOME built into a hillside, a round skylight at its crown, Burdoin Mountain rising behind it and the Columbia River flowing in the foreground, the yoga session began. The poses unfolded easily for the participants, who’d spent the night steps away in a ring of cabins inspired by minimalist Japanese design, and the morning rotating between the sauna, the cold plunge pool, the warm saltwater soaking pool and the hot tub outside, gazing up at the Zen landscape—the Gorge veiled in mist. Yoga at the subterranean Sanctuary at The Society Hotel in Bingen, as with other retreats, just isn’t the same as hitting the nearby studio after work. Done anywhere, yoga can calm the spirit while strengthening the body, but retreats can amplify the experience as well as the benefits. This spring, yoga retreats throughout Washington offer varying themes, from hiking and uncovering your authentic self to healing through journaling and birding in the mountains. They will undoubtedly inspire you to not namaste at home. 92          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

MARCH | APRIL 2020

“Doing yoga for an hour or two is great, but something very profound happens when we retreat together for a weekend or week or longer,” said Roy Holman of Holman Health Connections in Everett. He has led more than seventy retreats around Washington and globally since 2003. “There seem to be more people wanting these type of retreats, not just a ‘vacation’ where you might return home more tired than when you left. People often feel tremendously rejuvenated and refreshed, and that gives us joy.” For example, Holman’s yoga meditation retreat on Whidbey Island March 6-8 promises meditation walks and kirtan call-and-response chant-song, which help people connect with themselves and nature. It is set at Aldermarsh Retreat Center, amid hiking trails, hooting owls and singing frogs, yet only a ninety-minute drive from Seattle. The retreat’s theme is being yourself, Holman said, exploring how we lose ourselves trying to be everything for everyone


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“Doing yoga for an hour or two is great, but something very profound happens when we retreat together for a weekend or week or longer. … People often feel tremendously rejuvenated and refreshed, and that gives us joy.”

and seeking approval. Holman, author of Healing Self, Healing Earth: Awakening Presence, Power, and Passion, will focus on knowing and trusting yourself, and feeling the joy of being true to your heart and soul. Yoga retreats offer ways to connect deeply with your true self, purpose, desires and others, he said. When done in a tranquil, natural setting, the practice prompts inner discovery via multiple days spent unplugged, in nature and nourishing yourself with organic food. At Sleeping Lady Mountain Resort on the banks of Icicle Creek in the Cascades just outside Leavenworth, the retreat “Healing Art in Nature: Yoga, Birding and Nature Journaling” is set for April 17-19. Joanna Dunn leads a daily sunrise meditation on a knoll overlooking the Wenatchee River. “It gives one the feeling of being high on a mountain top, very far from civilization,” she said. “But, of course, a good cup of espresso is really just a short walk down the hill.” She follows the sunrise meditation with yoga in one of the resort’s spacious, restored 1930s wooden buildings. Yoga emphasizes awareness of movement, and that is complemented by the heightened awareness that comes from birding and nature journaling on the 67-acre preserve, she said. “People of all ages are very interested in meditation for stress relief, mental calm and clarity,” Dunn said. “People are very busy, even if they are retired, and a yoga retreat is a welcome respite from day-to-day obligations.” Back at The Sanctuary in Bingen, Society Hotel co-owner Jonathan Cohen said that simply entering the circular yoga space underground opens people up to something new, while creating a feeling of privacy. “It’s that sense of being away from the rest of the world, from normal life and worries, that puts you in a different mentality,” he said.

Micah Cruver

— Roy Holman, of Holman Health Connections

FROM TOP The Society Hotel in Bingen’s Sanctuary is a special retreat spot. Joanna Dunn teaches at a yoga retreat.

MARCH | APRIL 2020

1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE      93


1859 MAPPED

The points of interest below are culled from stories and events in this edition of 1859.

Astoria Seaside

Milton-Freewater Hood River Portland Tillamook Gresham

The Dalles La Grande

Maupin Government Camp

Pacific City Lincoln City

Baker City

Salem Newport

Madras

Albany Corvallis

Prineville

Eugene Springfield

John Day

Redmond

Sisters Florence

Joseph

Pendleton

Ontario

Bend Sunriver Burns

Oakridge Coos Bay Bandon

Roseburg

Grants Pass Brookings

Jacksonville

Paisley

Medford Ashland

Klamath Falls

Lakeview

Live

Think

Explore

16 Depoe Bay whale watching center

48 SakéOne

78

Blakeslee Vineyard Estate

18 Bart Budwig

50 Thunder Island Brewing Co.

80

Plank Town Brewing

25 Dóttir

52 Coleman Agriculture

84

The Vintages Trailer Resort

37 Rogue Community College

54 Wheyward Spirit

86

Weisinger Family Winery

40 Jamie Brown

56 Deep Roots Coalition

92

The Society Hotel at Bingen

94          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

MARCH | APRIL 2020


Until Next Time

The House

written by Patsy Hoffman-Murphy | illustrated by Allison Bye

ON A GRAY November afternoon, the sky hovered low over the dark silhouettes of the fir trees surrounding the yard. The scraggly apple trees along the gravel driveway clung to the last of their fruit, and leafless alders, like silver sentinels, watched over the hillside. A doe and her fawn grazed in the backyard. I’d come home for the last time to say goodbye. My siblings and I sold the old place on Hunter Creek, and I drove to Gold Beach for a last look at the home where we grew up—to sit on the hearth and look out the window like Mom used to do, to walk out to the shop that Dad built and smell the plywood and sawdust. Home—where I learned to walk, ride a bike, and climb a tree, where I learned to play in the dirt, avoid nettles, and follow trails my brother blazed. The place on Hunter Creek Heights, just south of Gold Beach, must have seemed perfect to my folks. It was one of only four houses on the hill when they bought it, after moving from Tillamook for a mill job in Gold Beach. Dad first came down to Gold Beach and lived in a boarding house on Eleventh Street. After finding a rental in town, Mom and my siblings joined him. I was born in Gold Beach in 1964 shortly before they bought the house and moved out to Hunter Creek in 1965. Three bedrooms and a full basement, a spacious kitchen with pink countertops. Unfortunately, only one bathroom. The house became a title, a name for the place. See you at The House. Meet me at The House. I’m going to head back to The House now. 96          1859 OREGON’S MAGAZINE

MARCH | APRIL 2020

It became a family member seen in even more photos than Jake, the family dog. It was as much a part of the family as the people living inside it. The mantle in the living room marked the passage of time with school photos lined up across the top. Every graduation photo, anniversary photo, Christmas photo, framed us in front of the fireplace or outside in the yard, each year held in place by the styles of clothes and glasses worn by our parents. We recently found an old photo of the house with Mom and Dad’s Rambler parked in the driveway. It must have been taken right around the time they bought the place. The house was pale green, with red-framed French doors, and it looked fresh, clean and new in the photo. The trees were smaller and the yard bigger. It had not yet become our home—it was just a house in that photo, a building on a hill, waiting. It had yet to hear our laughter, endure our stomping feet, or bear witness to the passage of time that eventually moved us all out of the house. Now, more than fifty years later, we said goodbye to the house so it could become a home for a different family. They will change it, remodel, excavate, repair, and live in it however they choose. It belongs to someone else now, but the house will always be my old friend.


Every Moment Covered

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1/29/20 8:25 AM


Oregon’s Magazine

TRIP PLANNER: SOUTHERN OREGON WINE COUNTRY PG. 86

Beer and Bike Adventures

A 7-Mile Journey to the Bottom of the Ocean

DIY Chanterelle Butter

March | April 2020

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