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| SATURDAY MARCH 11 | SUNDAY MARCH 12 2017
THE NORTH SHORE WEEKEND
LIFESTYLE & ARTS
NORTH SHORE FOODIE
Blue Grass celebrates food from coast to coast BY JULIE KEMP PICK DAILYNORTHSHORE.COM
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ocated off the beaten path in Highland Park, Bluegrass is a cozy restaurant that offers mid-casual dining with a twist, including everything from barbecue ribs to blackened grouper. “The tuna tartar makes dining fun,” said co-owner Jim Lederer. Under the tuna tartar plate is a bowl with a swimming Betta fish. “Two Bettas can’t be in the same bowl, because they really do fight. Another name for them is puddle jumpers, because they can jump from bowl to bowl.” Lederer prides himself on Bluegrass’ unique presentations, which often include martini glasses. The Szechwan calamari is in a huge 50-ounce martini glass, so it’s made for a table of four or six to share. The Bananas Foster is also served in a large martini glass, while taster-sized desserts are served in small martini glasses. Lederer opened Bluegrass in 2004 with his wife and business partner, Joni Lederer. He grew up in Highland Park and the couple raised their two grown sons here. “It was never intended to be a family business,” he said. “I actually like my kids, and I’d rather be their father than their boss. We have one son who moved back to Highland Park after he got married. Mom’s much happier than I am. I lose food and beer and Mom gets to see the kids.” ABOVE: Tuna Tartar is served over a bowl with a swimming Betta fish at Bluegrass in Highland Park. BELOW: Owners Joni and Jim Lederer. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL LERNER Joni Lederer explained that she Lederer explained that Blue- four-week Mardi Gras celebra- a “little bit of a southern twist met her husband while she was grass was originally built as the tion with fried alligator, fresh with jambalaya and gumbo” to a waitress at Don Roth’s in Wheeling and he was the Frontier Inn in the late ‘50s, early oysters, po’ boy sandwiches and Bluegrass. “We’re not a Cajun manager. Then he decided to start ‘60s on Deerfield Road before it plenty of beads. restaurant, but we’re an allhis own restaurant. They’ve been became Old Deerfield Road, The next celebration will American restaurant with items married for 27 years. because Deerfield Road went feature two-weeks of specials for from coast to coast,” he said. The Lederers work well tostraight to the highway. Cinco de Mayo, followed by a Bluegrass is located across the gether, because they focus on The restaurant was built by summer filled with new barbecue street from the Highland Park different aspects of the restaurant. masons not restaurateurs. items such as bison and Texas Police Department and enjoys “I’m usually in the front as “This building is all cinder links. Bluegrass also has a Fall serving “Highland Park’s finest.” hostess and manage the staff at block, brick and concrete with a Fest. Lederer said Highland Park lunch, and Jim manages more of concrete roof and concrete floors, “We further separate ourselves Police Chief Paul Shafer’s favorthe kitchen,” she said. Joni also so it’s kind of a neat structure,” by creating a larger menu, with ite dishes are the shrimp & grits lets her husband manage their said Lederer. “It’s solid as can be, more beverages including 40 dif- and the jambalaya, and he frekitchen at home, by allowing him and this part of town has ferent craft beers and 80 different quently orders salads. to do all of the cooking. morphed quite a bit.” small or independent wineries Lederer said he likes the small He learned to cook at a very Lederer said that after the represented,” said Lederer. “We town feel that the cozy restaurant early age. Frontier Inn closed, the site try to have fun with dining and provides and now in their 13th housed three different Asian be mid-casual which means Blue- year, he appreciates serving the “Growing up, my mom was disabled, so I had two choices: restaurants. Bluegrass took over grass is more than casual, and we second generation of loyal cusin 2004. learn how to cook, or learn how actually pay attention to service, tomers. Bluegrass is located at 1636 Old to open up a can, or eat TV years old. His dad and everyone that “one can bake anything in The Lederers seasonally presentations and have a scratch Deerfield Road in Highland Park. in the family also cooked. dinners,” he said. the oven, while the other is a grill change the menu to keep it kitchen.” Years later, Lederer taught his master, and they both know how “vibrant and current.” He exLederer started cooking Lederer used to work for For more information call: omelets when he was six or seven sons how to cook and is thrilled to keep a clean kitchen.” plained that Bluegrass hosted a Crawdaddy Bayou and brought 847-831-0595.