Myanmar Land of Pagodas
Land of Pagodas
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Our CEO and watchful guide Akayi (rhymes with bakery) Myanmar
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Myanmar As its future unfolds, Myanmar remains rooted in history and tradition from the depths of time. Myanmar is poised on the brink of new possibilities, a mingling of what was and what will be. Myanmar and its people face many challenges from changing governing paradigms to coping with the pressures of increasing tourism.
This volume is an account of an adventure through the heart of Myanmar, exploring the land and meeting the people who stand ready to embrace the future while honouring the past. Myanmar is the Land of the Pagoda. Pagodas, or temples, dot the landscape in numbers too great to count or fully appreciate. Wherever one turns in this land, it is rare to miss seeing pagoda after pagoda. Ancient pagodas stand next to new pagodas in testament to a faith that permeates the fabric of the people. Our journey begins in Yangon and extends to Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake, Kalaw and back to Yangon. Each stop on the adventure adds to our understanding of the culture of this peaceful land. Tranquility, tinged with excitement, are the watchwords for one who travels here. Our band of travellers hale from Canada, the UK, the USA, and Ireland and were all brought together by National Geographic Journeys with G Adventures. Akayi, our Chief Experience Officer and guide, provided a wealth of knowledge and inspiration, educating us in the history of the land and the culture and customs of the people of Myanmar. So as they say in Myanmar... Mingalabar.
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Yangon Yangon, the capital of Myanmar, is a modern city where colonial buildings mix with historic pagodas and the architecture of the 21st century. The city bustles with traffic like other cities and towns in Southeast Asia, with the exception of motor bikes which are remarkably absent from the streets owing to a decree by the previous government. Unlike other places in Southeast Asia, the traffic moves at a comparatively less frantic pace although pedestrians still need to be alert and choose their street crossings carefully. Yangon gives us our first look at a striking oddity - the number of righthand drive vehicles in a country that drives on the right-hand side of the
road. This seeming paradox resulted from a government decision and was enacted over night. While no one truly knows the origin of the idea, it did open up a new occupation, the position of assistant bus driver. The assistant driver sits on the left where he or she can see down the road to advise the head driver when it is safe to pass. Drivers of smaller vehicles rely on the horn to indicate their intentions. Somehow, it all works out.
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Here, as elsewhere, one finds the traditional longyi, the wrap around garment worn by women and men in lieu of pants, along side western style clothing. Travelers and residents are never far from open air markets and cafes common throughout Myanmar.
Buddhist monks and nuns are a common sight in Yangon and throughout Myanmar. Robed in saffron or pink the older disciples move with a serenity that is symbolic of a peaceful and beautiful culture. Young novices can be seen running and skipping with excitement that reflects the revival of their nation.
We will return to Yangon at the end of this story to visit Myanmar’s largest pagoda.
There are approximately 500,000 monks and some 50,000 nuns in Myanmar‌ more or less. Land of Pagodas
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Mandalay This former capital city, the last Royal City in Burma, was founded in 1857 by King Mindon. Named because of its location at the foot of Mandalay Hill, in central Myanmar, the royal city was originally named Yadanabon meaning "City of Gems." It was also called Lay Kyun Aung Mye, "Victorious Land over the Four Islands.” Mandalay is still considered to be the cultural centre of Myanmar. In the heart of the city is the “Famed Royal Emerald Palace,” historic home of Burma’s royal family. As kingdom gave way to republic, the Royal City became a military enclave.
The city is also home-base for travelers visiting Mandalay Hill and the islands and lakes nearby. The royal palace occupies 413-hectares surrounded by four 2,032 meter long walls and a moat 64 meters wide and 4.6 meters deep. The eastern moat aligns with the Su Taung Pyi Pagoda on Mandalay Hill. Myanmar
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Mandalay is home to many cultural artisans who make traditional carvings, statues, and exquisite tapestries. Sitting on their heels, artisans release images from blocks of wood. Finished carvings are either polished or gilded. It’s delicate work made easy at the hands of masters of the art.
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Mandalay’s Maha Myat Muni Pagoda gave us our first immersion into the life of a large, vibrant pagoda. Like all pagodas Maha Myat Muni is a place of reverence for the Buddha, so shoulders and knees are covered and shoes and socks are left at the door to be recovered later. Walking barefoot through halls and courtyards with other pilgrims we merged into the past, present and future of the culture of Myanmar. Pilgrims offer prayers and wishes to the Buddha images in and around the central pagoda. A central tradition at Maha Myat Muni is the adornment of the pagoda’s focal Buddha image with gold leaf. Male visitors can approach this Buddha image to add to the layers of gold which adorn the statue. Thus, the image grows larger as time passes. A testament to the adaptability of Buddhism in Myanmar, monks who follow the 2500 year old teachings of the Buddha are often seen carrying the latest 21st century devices.
Young novices are often seen walking arm in arm and exploring relics of their faith.
The Buddha image at the heart of Maha Myat Muni is thought to be one of five images created during the life of the Buddha. Buddha is said to have breathed on each image, making them true images. Of the other four, two of the images are in India and two in heaven.
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According to the Mustache Brothers, “If you have not seen our dancing, you cannot say you have been to Mandalay!” The Moustache Brothers originally comprised two brothers, Par Par Lay and Lu Maw and their cousin Lu Zaw. Lay and Zaw served almost six years of a seven year sentence in a labour camp for criticizing the government in a performance at the home of Aung San Suu Kyi in Rangoon in 1996. Par Par Lay was arrested for the third time in September 2007 as part of the crackdown on the anti-government protests and held until November first. Sadly, Par Par Lay died in 2013 from kidney disease probably brought on by conditions in prison. Undaunted, his partners continue to present their satirical criticism of the military government. The other side of their daily performances is demonstrating traditional Burmese dance. Ni Ni Lin, wife of Lu Maw, is an accomplished dancer, who, with other members of the troupe gave us many examples of the various routines that make up the traditional dance.
Ni Ni Lin’s face adorned the cover of the 1996 Lonely Planet guide to Myanmar.
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At the summit of Mandalay hill, some 230 meters above the surrounding plains, we find the Su Taung Pyi Pagoda where Buddha is said to have visited and prophesised the establishment to a great city at the foot of the hill. History suggests that the pagoda was originally built in 1052 by King Anawratha, the builder of Bagan. Also called the “wish granting pagoda�, the Su Taung Pyi and its surrounding pavilions offer a place to rest in contemplation while watching night fall on the land below. From this vantage point, one can see the city of Mandalay, the winding Ayeyarwady River and Mingun to the west. Wherever you look, it is difficult to miss views of pagodas,...pagoda and pagoda and pagoda dot the landscape below.
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Casting off from the jetty town on the banks of the Ayeyarwady River near Mandalay, we crossed the currents to the town of Mingun aboard one of the many river boats. We took some time to relax in wicker chairs on the promenade deck and watched the river traffic come and go, some carrying people, some hauling loads of bamboo and other goods. Men with long poles standing on the decks of small boats are a common sight during dry seasons. Their task is to measure the depth of the river, marking shallows to be avoided by larger craft.
During low water periods, temporary houses made from bamboo dot the shoreline. Local farmers and fishers make their homes here to be close to their crops and fishing spots. When waters rise, the buildings can be dismantled and moved or be carried downstream by the flooding water. Land of Pagodas
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Disembarking at Mingun, travellers can choose to walk a short distance into town or ride in one of the local ox carts. Following the old adage “each to his own” some of us made the trek on foot while others chose the local limousine service. Mingun is home to Pahtodawgyi - the “unfinished pagoda,” the Mingun Bell, Hsinphyumae Pagoda, two giant lion statues, several market stalls, a monastery, and a retirement home for seniors. Construction of the unfinished pagoda was started by King Bodawpaya in 1790. Work on the pagoda ceased when an astrologer claimed that the king would die if the temple was finished. The great Mingun Bell was commissioned for the unfinished pagoda. The 90 ton bell, is today the largest ringing bell in the world. After offering a prayer or making a wish, it is customary to ring a bell to carry the request out into the world. Several people in our band of travellers rang out their wishes that day. The white Hsinbyume or Myatheindan Pagoda lies just a few hundred meters from the bell. Its distinctive architectural represents the mythical Mount Meru. Built in 1816 by Bodawpaya's grandson and successor Bagyidaw in memory of his first consort Princess Hsinbyume, the Lady of the White Elephant.
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Climbing the staircase barefoot brought us to a circular balcony that surrounds the upper pagoda. From here one can look out over a landscape of trees, water and pagodas. From the southern arc of the circle, the unfinished pagoda looms in the distance.
The seniors home and the colourful market stalls are reminders that Mingun exists with one foot in the past, one in the present and both feet walking into the future.
While browsing through the markets, we found our new favourite drink‌ Mandalay Rum, at $2.50 a bottle.
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Returning to Mandalay we travelled to Sagaing to visit the U Min Thonze Pagoda. Climbing barefoot up many stairs brings us to the main hall of the pagoda, a narrow crescent shape faรงade that covers a cave on the side of Sagaing Hill Also known as the U Min Thonze Bronze Cave, the pagoda holds the 30 doors which lead to 45 Buddha images within.
Like other pagodas, the approach to the pavilion at U Min Thonze is the home of a market where clothing and offerings can be purchased. From the vantage point of the hilltop, we took in the panoramic view of the plains below with the Ayeyarwady River and hills on display.
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While in he Sagaing Hills, we visited the Dha Kya Di Tar Convent, the home of a group of bhiksuni, the Buddhist nuns. Their pink robes immediately distinguish them from the many monks in the region. A day in the life of a Buddhist nun involves meditation, studying the dharma, the doctrine of universal truth common to all individuals at all times proclaimed by the Buddha, and working around the convent preparing meals and cleaning the grounds. Young nuns can be seen scurrying from lesson to lesson when they are not engaged in contemplation or daily chores. The first bhiksuni was Mahapajapati Gotami, the aunt who raised Gautama Buddha after his mother died
Women and girls can enter the convent at any time in their lives and leave whenever they choose. Many young girls will spend a few days or weeks at the convent when they are not in school. Where monks are not allowed to prepare their own food, relying on the generosity of others, nuns can cook their own meals. Nuns still participate in the early morning alms gathering that is a part of the way of life of the order.
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In the Sagain Hills
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Our next stop in the Mandalay region was U Bein Bridge, the teakwood bridge that spans Taungthaman Lake near Amarapura. This 1.2-kilometre bridge was built around 1850 and is believed to be the oldest and longest teakwood bridge in the world. The bridge has a curved shape in the middle to resist the effects of wind and water. The 1,086
primary teak posts, reclaimed from the former royal palace in Inwa were hammered into lake bed seven feet deep. The conical shape of the posts aid in shedding water during rainy seasons. We boarded small boats just before sunset and were rowed out onto the lake to watch the sun dip behind the bridge. Sunset on Taungthaman is a popular event often involving sparkling wine or other refreshments.
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After celebrating sunset on the lake, we moved on to a workshop where weavers weave upside down. Following detailed patterns, they create cloth that can only be seen in final form in a mirror held below the beam and only fully appreciated when it comes off the loom. The work is detailed and painstaking but the weavers were not adverse to our inspection. The weaving room is next door to a shop where visitors can buy bolts of cloth or prepared longyi that can be worn immediately. The longyi, the typical garment of the Burmese, is a sarong worn by both men and women. Women complete the dress with a blouse buttoned at the side, called a yinbon. The longyi is a circle of fabric worn from the waist down, tied in front by men and tucked to the side by women.
A word about the cream-coloured makeup worn by the young ladies here... Thanaka.is a yellowish-white cosmetic paste made from ground bark. It acts as makeup and sunscreen.
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The next stop on our journey took us to Shwenandaw Monastery. Also known as the Teakwood or Golden Palace Monastery, this historic Buddhist monastery near Mandalay Hill was built in 1880 by King Thibaw Min. The king dismantled and relocated the building formerly occupied by his father, King Mindon Min, believing it to be haunted by his father's spirit. The building was reconstructed as a monastery over the course of 5 years, and dedicated in memory of his former king. The monastery is known for its teak carvings showing scenes of Buddhist myths, which cover its walls and roofs. The main building of the monastery is under continual restoration repairing the ravages of time and weather. New carvings, faithful replicas of original work, can be seen next to original work. Visitors need to be wary of leaning against the woodwork, because of the fragility of the ancient wood and because the maintenance of the woodwork involves liberal applications of crude oil as a preservative.
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The next stop on our exploration was the King Galon Gold Leaf Workshop in Mandalay. Here, workers pound pellets of gold into thin sheets or leafs that are only a few atoms thick. Gold leaf is used in the gilding of buildings, statues, Buddha images and works of art. Myanmar is blessed with an abundance of the yellow metal, the proof of which is evident wherever you look. The making of gold leaf is hard, noisy, and backbreaking work. Workers use heavy mallets to pound packets of the metal interleaved with paper until the gold reaches the desired thickness. As one hammer strikes home, another is raised. The work takes on a rhythm and goes on until a cup with a hole in the bottom sinks into a bowl of water, which takes about 3 minutes. After a short break, the rhythmic pounding continues. This way of gold leaf making produces what most consider to be a higher quality leaf than mechanical methods. When the pounding is done, the leafs are trimmed and packaged for sale.
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Leaving the thud of the hammers behind, we made our way to the world’s largest book. The “book” is set in upright stone panels, in the grounds of the Kuthodaw pagoda in Mandalay. Its 1460 pages each stand 107 centimetres wide by 153 centimetres tall and 13 centimetres thick. The pages are arranged around a central golden pagoda with each page under its own roof topped with a precious gem. As a literary work, the book contains the complete text of the entire Pali Canon of Theravada Buddhism. Inscribed by one man, the book was proofread by 1,000 monks, a monumental task
Outside the pagoda we did business with a young lady selling various flowers used as offerings to the Buddha. The transaction made, we walked away with our offering, and she left with 1,000 Kipps in hand. Land of Pagodas
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Early the next morning, we checked out of our hotel and drove down to the jetty town to board a riverboat headed for Bagan. The passage downriver, a distance of about 180 km would take us from sunrise to sunset, a peaceful twelve hour cruise. Most mapping apps optimistically suggest that the distance could be covered in about 3 hours and 41 minutes by car... real world driving time is 10 12 hours, more or less including bio-breaks. The boat ride offers a unique view of the countryside and has the added advantage of more leg room and fewer bumps along the way. The possibility of running aground in low water season adds a certain level of excitement. River traffic is varied and constant, passengers and goods head up and down river to and from Mandalay and beyond. The river banks are dotted with villages and pagoda after pagoda, some small, some large. Small boats hold fishers while others ferry people and cargo from shore to shore. Larger cargo vessels are accompanied by small boats with workers tasked with finding clear deep channels.
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With our river cruise coming to a close, the warm, golden light of sunset announced our arrival at Bagan and the start of a new adventure.
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Bagan Bagan is an ancient city dating to the 9th century CE. The city was the capital of the first kingdom to unify the regions that now constitute modern Myanmar. At the dawn of our first day in Bagan, our first stop was at Nyaung Oo Market. Stocked with everything from coils of betel leaf and dried fish to bananas and pastel coloured eggs, the market was bustling with shoppers stocking up on food and other necessities for the day. Like other places in Myanmar, fruit, vegetables, meat, and spices are purchased fresh each day from vendors in the market.
Betel leaf should not be confused with betel nut, the addictive palm seed that causes euphoria. Side effects of betel nut chewing include discolouration of the teeth, gum disease, mouth ulcers and, in extreme cases, oral cancer.
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Historians estimate that some 12,000 pagodas and monasteries were constructed in and around Bagan in the 9th to 11th centuries. Today there are fewer than 3,000 standing pagodas and a few thousand in various states of ruin owing to weather, earthquakes and the ravages of time. Our exploration of Began’s pagodas commenced with a visit to the Shwezigon Pagoda in nearby Nyaung-U. This prototypical Burmese stupa consists of a circular gilded central temple surrounded by smaller pagodas. Construction of the Shwezigon Pagoda began in 1059 during the reign of King Anawrahta and was completed in 1102 CE after his death. The pagoda is believed to hold a bone and tooth of Gautama Buddha. The gold leaf that covers the pagoda can be seen clearly where the gold has been scrubbed thin by weather and wind erosion. As we found at other large pagodas, pilgrims and tourists join with local visitors who come to the pagoda to make offerings and wishes in the Buddhist tradition.
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A short ride brought us to the Htilominlo Temple in Bagan. Built during the reign of King Htilominlo between 1211 and1231, the three story tall red brick temple is known for the elaborate plaster moldings on the inner walls. The temple was damaged in the 1975 earthquake and has since undergone repair. Approaching the temple through the east entrance we passed stalls with souvenirs and local artwork. Entering the temple we found ourselves in a chamber containing a golden Buddha image, the first of four such statues housed in the temple. Each of the images shows the Buddha with the legs crossed, the left hand in the lap, and the right hand pointing to the ground with the palm facing inward. Known as the Calling The Earth to Witness posture, it is the definition of the moment of enlightenment for Buddha Gautama. Connected by narrow hallways, three other chambers contain similar Buddha images each facing one of the other points of the compass.
Offerings of water, food, flowers and incense are left each day at the foot of the Buddha. Myanmar
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Next on our agenda for the day was Ananda Phaya, in Bagan. The Phaya (temple) is named in honour of Gautama Buddha’s first cousin the Venerable Ananda. As secretary and attendant to the Buddha, Ananda was instrumental in recording the many sayings that have been passed down through the ages. The Phaya has been called the Westminster Abbey of Burma but since the temple predates the abbey, perhaps Westminster should be the Ananda Phaya of Great Britain. Construction of Ananda Phaya began in 1105 AD during the reign of King Kyanzittha of the Pagan Dynasty. One of four surviving large temples in Bagan, the temple layout is in a cruciform with several terraces leading to a small pagoda at the top covered by an hti, the umbrella or top ornament found atop almost all pagodas in Myanmar. The phaya houses four gilded teak standing Buddhas called the “Buddhas of the modern age.” Standing 9.5 meters tall the images represent the enlightened beings. Buddha–Kassapa facing south with hands in the Setting the wheel in motion posture, Buddha Kakusandha facing north, Buddha Konagamana facing east with hands in the Reasoning and exposition posture, and Buddha Gautama facing west with hands in the Fearlessness posture. At the foot of Gautama Buddha are two small images covered in ever increasing layers of gold leaf. While women are usually prohibited from touching images of the Buddha, the prohibition does not apply here. Taking advantage of the opportunity, several women from our group, took advantage of the freedom to adorn the images with more gold leaf. The temple was damaged in the earthquake of 1975. Since then it has been fully restored and receives frequent painting and whitewashing of its walls. On the 900th anniversary of its construction in 1990 the temple spires were gilded. Land of Pagodas
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Within the grounds of Ananda Phraya we found the Ananda Oakkyaung Monastery. This small red brick structure was built by three brothers in 1137 CE. Outwardly less impressive, lacking the shining gold of the pagoda next door, the monastery could be overlooked by travellers. Exploring realms inside we found the walls are covered in 18th century paintings depicting Buddha’s life and elements of the history of Bagan. Besides being Buddha’s friend and confidant, Ananda is said to have been instrumental in persuading Buddha Gautama to overcome his misgivings about the entry of women into the ordained order of followers.
The name Ananda means Eternity, fitting since he is thought to have lived some 120 years. The first monk who resided in this monastery was Shin Thuddhamma Linkara who lived to reach the age of 69. By edict of King Kyanzittha, the vulnerable monk was granted lodgings in the monastery so he could live in peace and meditation. Myanmar
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Taking a break from our explorations, we stopped at a nearby vegetarian restaurant. Midday breaks provided a time to stop, rest, and watch the ebb and flow of life on the local streets. Horse carts, common in Bagan, are a slower and less hectic conveyance from place to place. The carts share the road with cars, buses and motor bikes, often making for an interesting ride.
A ritual that our group adopted early in our journey was to take items like shampoo, soap, and unused tooth brushes and combs from our hotel rooms to give to local children that we met along the way. These items and treats like biscuits were warmly received by the children and much appreciated by their parents. The hotel items are discarded each day, so their disappearance goes without comment. Biscuits and similar healthy snacks are preferred over candy which promotes tooth decay.
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After lunch, our next stop was at Bagan House Lacquerware Workshop, a pleasant walk of a few blocks from our hotel. Here we were introduced into an art form that arose in Bagan in the 12th century. Lacquerware production starts with bamboo shipped down from Myanmar’s Chin State. Softened bamboo cane is split into thin strips, a process that requires both hands, at least one foot and a large knife. The bamboo strips are wound or woven into shapes like bracelets, bowls, vases, cups, plates, and various boxes. The resulting objects are coated with thitsee, a resin from the Thit-si tree that grows in Myanmar. Thitsee may be mixed with ashes or sawdust to form a putty-like substance called thayo which can be sculpted. The object is coated layer upon layer with thitsee and thayo to make a smooth surface, then polished and engraved with intricate designs, commonly using red, green and yellow colours on a red or black background. Some objects are decorated with eggshell others with gold.
Busy workers will stop to show visitors how they perform their art or to decorate items like lens hoods or a case for eye glasses. Myanmar
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As our first day in Bagan came to a close, we made a brief stop at the Sulamani Pagoda in the nearby village of Minnanthu. Built in 1183 by King Narapatisithu, the temple is similar in design to the Dhammayangyi Temple, and was the model for the Htilominlo Temple. Damaged in the 1975 earthquake, Sulamani Temple was restored using brick and stone. It was rebuilt in 1994. From here we visited the Dhammayangyi Temple, largest of all the temples in Bagan. Dhammayangyi was built during the reign of King Narathu in the 12th century CE. Narathu, who came to the throne by assassinating his father Alaungsithu and his elder brother, presumably built this temple to atone for his sins. Dhammayangyi is the widest temple in Bagan, and is similar to the of Ananda Temple. Burmese chronicles state that while the temple was being built, the king was assassinated thus the temple was not completed. The temple's interior is bricked up for unknown reasons, so only the four porches and the outer corridors are accessible today. Moving on a short distance, we climbed the stairs at a small pagoda to watch the sunset. Climbing barefoot up narrow, irregular steps is not for the feint of heart, but is well worth the effort. From our vantage point, we looked out over fields of pagodas catching the last rays of sunlight.
Freedom to climb Bagan’s pagodas has been severely limited by authorities owing to disrespectful behaviour of some visitors.
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With an early wakeup call the next morning, we headed out to climb a pagoda to witness the dawn of a new day over Bagan. In the transition of twilight, we watched as the sun lit the land and pagodas.
As we watched and waited, several hot air balloons came into view. Eventually soaring overhead, they carried their passengers over the landscape. Ballooning is a popular activity at sunrise, offering a unique view of ancient Bagan.
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Hopping on electric bikes and hoping for a miracle, we ventured out into the countryside. Thankfully, traffic was light and we all managed to navigate successfully. Along the way one is reminded of the pagoda building years of Bagan’s past.
Eventually, after stops to wait for battery changes and those looking at pagodas, we arrived in the village of Minnan Thu. Here, villagers gave us some insight into their lives. This agricultural village specializes in producing peanut oil, dried plums and flax fiber which is woven by local women following traditions passed down through generations.
Wherever we went in Bagan, this young man and his parents appeared to show us souvenirs they were willing to sell. The lad showed us some of his drawings that he was willing to part with for a modest fee. After handing him 2,000 kyat ($2.00) for a set of 4, he told me that he is a “very good business man.� Land of Pagodas
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Saying goodbye to the people in Minnan Thu, we made our way back to Bagan to return our electric bikes before taking a short bus ride to Kyan Sithar Umin Monastery to chat with one of the senior monks. Avoiding the age old question about the meaning of life and how the caramel gets in the chocolate bar, our group inquired into more personal interests like how one achieves a state of meditation and whether it is necessary to assume any particular posture in meditation. In answer, we learned that meditation requires diligence and the ability to focus and it takes time and practice. As for assuming a particular posture, thankfully, we needn’t worry about that. Our group drew the attention of several younger monks who took pictures of us with their smartphones. These items are not forbidden but must not interfere with learning and contemplation. Receiving a blessing from the monk, we boarded our bus and headed to a Toddy Palm plantation. The fruit of the Toddy palm produces juice which is used to make two very different products. Juice gathered in the morning is sweet and is harvested to make palm sugar in a process that Canadians would recognize from maple syrup making. The juice is boiled down in pans until it thickens and turns into a brown sugar. Juice collected in the afternoon ferments and becomes bitter. This juice is distilled in clay pots to make a potent beverage.
Peanut oil, used in Burmese cooking is also made here. Peanuts are ground and pressed in a cone shaped vessel using oxpower. When we arrived, the ox was out grazing but quietly walked over to show us how the process works. Walking in a circle, the ox turns a pole that rubs the peanuts against the side of the vessel, squeezing out the oil and leaving a high protein paste that can be used as ox food. The oil is collected in a pan and sold to local cooks. Myanmar
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Shan State Catching an early morning flight from Bagan to Heho, we started the next phase of our journey through Myanmar. Arriving in Heho in Shan State, we loaded into our new bus and headed to Nyaung Shwe at the north end of Inle Lake. Making our way from our drop off point, we visited the Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery. Known for its unique oval windows, this monastery is built from teak and is adorned with many carvings. Like other monasteries, Shwe Yan Pyay is populated by monks but here the monks are mostly young novices who have come to learn the teachings of the dharma.
A fierce looking creature guarding the door reminds visitors to take off their shoes before entering. Monks robes, hanging in the sun to dry are a brilliant red and deep plum purple , which is in contrast to the saffron robes usually associated with the order.
Before boarding our boats to head out onto the lake, we were treated to a rickshaw ride through town, much to the amusement of local people who graciously refrained from actually laughing. Land of Pagodas
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Into the boats and out onto Inle Lake we skimmed across the surface into a completely different experience from what came before. The lake boats are long and narrow, made for negotiating narrow channels and tight turns. They are also tippy requiring passengers to sit still and trust the boatman. After an hour or so, just when we got our sea legs, we arrived at Innpawkhon the first of the several villages we would visit on the lake. Here we stopped for a midday meal. Our chosen restaurant specialises in Inle Lake tilapia, fresh caught that day. If not in the mood for fish, they also serve up some very tasty fried noodles. Sitting on a balcony, we could take in the activity down on the water. Boats and canoes replace cars and bikes in the Inle Lake villages and are seen going up and down the “streets� on some matter of business. From our vantage point we were able to see the houses built up on stilts The length of the stilts demonstrates the difference between low and high water seasons on the lake. We could also watch one of the Inle Lake fishers go about his work, right in the middle of the main street. These fishers row with one leg while manipulating their nets with both hands.
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Next door to our restaurant we found a little shop that makes cheroots, small cylindrical cigars. Hands moving almost to fast to follow, these ladies made a cheroot every 45 seconds. As they dropped the finished cheroots into boxes, they encouraged us to try their products‌ many of us complied. In contrast to the cigars of the Caribbean, the cheroots were mild and quite pleasant, and they come in different flavours. Just a short walk across the balcony we entered the Khit Sunn Yin workshop where weavers were hard at work making traditional cloth. Spinners convert raw fibers like silk and lotus into fine threads in vibrant hues. Weavers transform the threads into fine cloth used for making longyi and other clothing. Lotus fiber is reserved for making cloth for monks robes. With great skill the fiber must be extracted from lotus stems by hand.
On our way, we passed two young girls engaging in the familiar youthful activity of just hanging out. A short detour took us through one of Inle’s floating gardens where tomatoes are grown for local markets.
Late in the day we arrived at our home on Inle Lake where we took advantage of the resort’s deck bar to view the setting sun while enjoying some adult beverages.. Land of Pagodas
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Early the next morning, we took to our boats and headed across the lake to a canal heading upstream to new personal discoveries. Along the way, children heading for morning classes arrived by “school-boat,� artisans carried their works downstream to market or to ship to other places, children who attend afternoon classes helped with the morning dishes. Travelling up the reed lined waterway we passed under many bridges used by local people to cross the canal at strategic points.
Water levels in the canals are controlled by weirs with just enough space left for a boat to pass up a little waterfall.
Enjoying the morning sunshine and the wind in our faces, we eventually found ourselves 10 Km upstream in the village of Inn Thein
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At Inn Thein, we visited the Nyaung Ohak and Shwe Inn Thein pagodas and entered a scene that Lewis Carrol or Salvador Dali might have created in flights of fancy. Pagoda and pagoda and pagoda cover the hillside in a chaos of white, gold, and ochre.
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Overshadowed by the fields of pagodas, the village has a life of its own. Here people walk or make their way on motorbikes and buffalo are herded down the street. People gravitate to the river for transportation, washing, and for the young, a bit of play.
Scrambling into our boats once more, we headed downstream passing people at work cleaning and repairing the weirs.
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On the way back to the lake, we stopped at the village of Ywama where we would spend some time in the shops and meeting local people. Of particular interest in Ywama is the Hnin Thitsar Umbrella Workshop where paper umbrellas come to life. Forget the large paper factories at home, this is paper making in its most traditional form. We watched as two ladies made paper which would either be used in making the parasols or sold as art paper. Mulberry bark is soaked in water and pounded into a fibrous paste using a mallet and wooden anvil. The paste is mixed in a vessel with more water to make a slurry that is floated onto a screen submerged in a large vat. As the screen is lifted, the water drains away leaving a sheet of raw paper. Flowers can be added to the wet paper or the paper can be dyed in rich colours. The screens are then set in the sun to dry before the paper is peeled away. Upstairs in the factory, the new paper is fashioned into parasols by artisans who make all of the base components by hand from bamboo and wood.
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In Ywama we met some of the some of the long neck Padaung women. The Padaung people are the oldest of Myanmar’s 135 ethnic groups. These peaceful people not only live in harmony with nature but also keep many unique customs alive, including wearing many of the brass necklaces that give them the appearance of having longer necks. Young girls can choose to wear the rings or not according to their own wishes, but once started, the rings cannot be removed for traditional and safety reasons. The Padaung women consider the practice to be both honourable and beautifying. Brass rings are also worn a jewelry on the arms and legs adding to the fashion statement. One of the older ladies showed how the larger rings can be uncoupled to make sleeping more comfortable. During the 1980s, many of the Padaung fled to neighbouring Thailand to escape military oppression. Changing times have brought them back to their homelands where they now live and work as artisans and ambassadors when tourists come to town. In a small workshop next door, we watched as silversmiths refined the precious metal and crafted beautiful works of art ranging from earrings and bracelets to large ornamental sculptures. Their signature work, making fish from sheets of silver in sizes a few millimeters to several centimeters takes great skill and talent.
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A short boat ride brought us to the Phaung Daw Oo pagoda where we walked barefoot through the market stalls and on into the main hall of reverence.
The main hall is a cavernous golden space with highly polished wood plank floors. Overhead, a gilded ceiling is held aloft by pillars of gold-covered teak. In the center of the great hall is a smaller pagoda that enshrines five Buddha images that are so encrusted with gold leaf that their original shapes are completely hidden. Although the monastery is open to all for veneration, only men are permitted to place gold leaf on the images.
During the Burmese month of Thadingyut (from September to October), four of the Buddha images are placed on a replica of the royal barge and taken throughout Inle Lake. One image always remains at the temple. The elaborately decorated barge is towed by several boats powered by leg-rowers rowing in unison. Accompanied by many other boats, the images make their way clockwise from village to village. The four images reside at the main monastery in each village for the night, and move on in the morning. All five images were used to make the journey but during a festival in the 1960s, on a particularly windy day, high waves capsized the barge and the images tumbled into the lake. It was said that they could not recover one image but that when they went back to the monastery, the missing image was miraculously sitting in its place. This was taken as a sign that this particular image did not want to travel. Looking out from the terrace surrounding the pagoda, one can take in the tiled courtyards with their allotment of pigeons below. Land of Pagodas
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From the big pagoda, we crossed over a bridge and followed a path to the home of a local chef where we would experience the art of Shan cooking. For those expecting to see gleaming stainless steel and overhead mirrors‌ forget about it. This experience is an immersion into local tradition as real as it gets. Our guide to local culinary arts was a soft spoken lady who could cook up a gourmet meal in short order. Putting us to work, she had us grinding ginger and garlic, and cutting beans and tomatoes in preparation for cooking. Veggies cut, chicken chopped and local fish filleted, she invited us into her kitchen to help tend to pots heated over small clay chimneys. In no time, our lunch was ready. Tempura veggies, fried chicken and noodles, fried fish and a green bean salad with peanut dressing were arranged in front of us as we sat on the floor to quite literally take it all in.
With memories of a fine meal, we returned to the boats for a trip back to our hotel for an evening of reflection and some Mandalay Rum on the deck as the sun set. A fitting end to the day. Myanmar
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After a breakfast with Shan noodles, we took to the boats for our last ride on Inle Lake to make our way to Kalaw. Along the way we passed by several of the leg-rowing Inle Lake fishers going about their work. One of the iconic symbols of the lake, the fishers are so engrossed in their tasks that they rarely even seem to notice the passing boatloads of tourists coming and going.
Traversing the lake, we noticed a small pagoda on stilts. From this little pagoda the Buddha image watches over the fishers and other lake travellers to bid safe journeys for all. Lake boats carry not just tourists, but also cargo and local people to their work and school‌ gulls follow the boats in hope of a handout.
Most images of the fishers show them smiling as they balance on their canoes with the traditional conical basket in hand and one leg outstretched to hold the oar. They are however, actors playing the part, not the real fishers who are much too busy fishing to pose.
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Travelling by bus from Inle Lake, we arrived near a rural village a few kilometers northeast of Kalaw. A short walk of about a kilometer took us past fields and along the main street of this little community. When we arrived at the village school, we were met by a few dozen girls and boys out playing in the school yard and generally doing what kids do anywhere when released from their classrooms. Armed with bags of toothbrushes, combs, shampoo, and other “treats,� we were ready for the kids to gather around to see what this group of visitors had to offer. In typical fashion, they took what was given with grins and quietly spoken kyaezube (thank you.) We trekked on from the school along the valley past rice paddies and bamboo thickets. Our local guide took time to show us edible and medicinal plants along the way. In the dry season, some rice fields are used to grow other crops like cabbage while others serve as grazing pastures for ox and buffalo. As we walked, we met villagers going about their daily chores. A few more kilometers up the valley we arrived at a collection of white pagodas that marked the turnaround point of our trek. After walking back to our bus, we rode into Kalaw for lunch and some local shopping at the market. Prior to taking in supper at a local restaurant we gathered for some rum sours, mixed up by our CEO.
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Waking to low chanting from a nearby monastery, we started the last day of our journey. After a breakfast we boarded our bus to make the trip to Heho Airport to catch our flight back to Yangon. Arriving in the capital in the afternoon, we took advantage of the hotel pool to relax in preparation for a visit to Shwedagon Pagoda. Set atop Singuttara Hill and standing 112 metres, more or less, Shwedagon dominates the Yangon skyline. Shwedagon Pagoda is the most sacred Buddhist pagoda in Myanmar, as it is believed to contain relics of the four previous Buddhas of the present age. These relics include the staff of Kakusandha, the water filter of Koáš‡Ä gamana, a piece of the robe of Kassapa, and eight strands of hair from the head of Gautama. The pagoda rises from a tiled plaza amid smaller stupas and temples. The overwhelming size of the central pagoda is difficult to appreciate until one realizes that the hti (umbrella) at the apex of the dome is itself some 6 meters tall. The hti is adorned with 5448 diamonds, and 2317 rubes, sapphires and other gems. The hti contains 1065 golden bells and a 76 carat diamond. Covered in gold plates, the pagoda gleams in the warm evening sunlight. People all over the country, as well as past monarchs have donated gold to the pagoda to maintain it. The practice was started in the 15th century by Queen Shin Sawbu, who gave her weight in gold.
Strolling around the terrace plaza, with the many pilgrims and visitors that evening, we stopped to view the many stupas and temples that surround the main pagoda. At strategic points, visitors can stop to pay reverence to the spirit of their birth day. Most days have one spirit animal, those born on a Wednesday must choose between morning and evening. Paying homage to one’s day spirit involves bathing the spirit and its associated Buddha image with water while making wishes. Land of Pagodas
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Shwedagon Pagoda was a fitting place to complete our journey through the heart of Myanmar. The pagoda stands as testament to the deep faith of the people. Its gold plate demonstrates the wealth of a this ancient country as it renews itself as it has done through the ages. In the midst of the quiet joy that surrounded us, we could ponder all that we had seen as we explored along the way. We found pagoda after pagoda as promised by our CEO, but along the way we discovered the joy that the people of Myanmar share with all who journey here. Myanmar is a vibrant land with a rich heritage. We wish it well in the days and years ahead as they walk into the future with one foot in the past and one in the present.
At the North West corner of the terrace are two Bodhi Trees. The larger one was planted in 1903, the smaller one was planted by U Nu, prime minister of Burma from 1948 to 1962. It was grown from the cutting from the Holy Bodhi Tree in India, which is believed
to be the tree under which Buddha Gautama attained nirvana
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Epilogue Our trip through Myanmar was orchestrated by National Geographic with G Adventures. Having travelled with G Adventures prior to this, we were pleasantly surprised by the level of service we received along the way. Bags were handled, hotels were above the norm and short flights replaced long bus rides giving more time to explore destinations at the relative expense of missing the countryside. On this journey, as with other G Adventures, our guide and CEO was not only a wealth of information, but a very capable organizer who made difficult things easy. Food in Myanmar is a fusion of flavours from local states and Indian curries. Rice and noodles are prominent, but the Shan noodle dishes are a highlight. Some western dishes like pasta, pizza and burgers can be found should the traveller need to touch base with home. While gold is seen everywhere, we did notice the absence of the golden arches. For those who enjoy a good beverage, Myanmar Beer and Mandalay Rum don’t disappoint the palate. Myanmar also has a bourgeoning wine industry for those with more delicate tastes. A word about spelling‌ the language of Myanmar is written in a type of tonal script which leads to differing opinions about the phonetic spelling of the names of places and people when words are translated to English. Throughout this volume I have tried to use the most common variant, sometimes you just have to choose one and move on. Myanmar and Burma are both commonly used by local people. Two Burmese words travellers learn early on are mingalabar, meaning hello or welcome, and kyaezube, which is thankyou. Although English is a second language in Myanmar, it does take some ear training to understand, which is sort of like visiting Newfoundland. While I have touched on respecting local customs, it is worth reiterating that we are visitors in their land. Custom requires covering shoulders and knees and doffing shoes and socks when visiting pagodas. Respecting the sanctity of the holy places is just good manners. In several cases, we saw foreign visitors with bare shoulders and uncovered knees who were asked to cover up. As of March 1 st, 2016, shortly after we left Myanmar, government officials limited the climbing of pagodas in and around Bagan. This move was taken to protect the monuments from damage created by visitors who take liberties in climbing where forbidden and using the pagodas as places to party. The actions of a few affect all. The country is not free of oppression and cultural bias and in that regard it is no different than other nations including those that we all home. The simple truth is that wherever you go, if you look for trouble it will find you. Although most places in Myanmar are safe, it is prudent to take basic precautions. Myanmar is relatively untouched by tourism, where Thailand has some 25 million visitors every year, this country has one tenth that number. How they will handle increasing tourism and the environmental and social changes that come as its side effect remains to be seen. We can only hope that future visitors come with a healthy dose of respect and humility befitting guests in a foreign land. Visiting Myanmar puts another tick on the bucket list but a return visit is in order. Twelve days is insufficient time to truly experience all of Myanmar. That said, we were duly impressed by what we did see as we travelled though this beautiful country. Boating down the Ayeyarwady from Mandalay to Bagan was a peaceful highlight. Walking through the hills near Kalaw gave time for communing with rural life. Riding electric scooters in Bagan offered some adrenalin raising excitement. Strolling barefoot through pagodas gave us insight into the foundation of Burmese culture. Viewing sunset and sunrise from the terraces of pagodas provided time for reflection.
And that leaves only one last thing to say‌ Kyaezube Myanmar!
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Myanmar J Nicklin, 2016
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