Central America

Central America Linking Cultures and Continents

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Central America

Cancun Playa Del Carmen

Mexico Belize Flores

Caye Cualker Belize City San Ignacio Livingston

Guatamala Honduras Antigua

El Salvador Nicaragua

Tamarindo

Costa Rica

San Blas Islands

Panama

Central America

Panama City

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A journey through Central America Panama Sometimes a simple event starts a chain of actions that lead to personal discovery. This journey began with receiving an email from our friends at G Adventures about a new area to explore, even though the organization does not offer any tours there. The place to visit was the San Blas Islands off the northern coast of Panama in the Caribbean Sea. Our journey starts near there in Panama City where we would spend 2 days taking in the sights of the city. Our hotel was conveniently located just 2 blocks from el malecon balboa, a walkway along the ocean that extends from the city centre out to the old city. Our peregrination along the malecon was interrupted for an inspection of tricked-out bicycles being shown by local lads. One of the boys took great pride in posing with his masterpiece.

The view looking back at the city centre shows the beauty of this southern-most Central American city. High-rise buildings shimmer in the calm sea at sunset.

Further along, the malacon opens up to form a safe harbour for fishing boats that serve the local fish market.

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The most iconic feature of the city is the great Panama Canal, a feat of engineering built in the early 20th century. The canal cuts across the Isthmus of Panama linking the Atlantic and Pacific. Locks at each end lift ships up to Gatun Lake, an artificial lake created to reduce the amount of excavation work required for the canal, 26 m above sea level, and then similar locks lower the ships at the other end. The original locks are 34 m wide. A third, wider lane of locks was added between September 2007 and May 2016. The larger canal opened on June 26, 2016. The new locks allow transit of larger ships capable of handling more cargo.

France began work on the canal in 1881 but stopped due to engineering problems and a high worker mortality rate, many from malaria. The United States took over the project in 1904 and the canal was opened to traffic on August 15, 1914. One of the largest and most difficult engineering projects ever undertaken in modern times.

In 1999 the Panamanian government took over operations for the canal. Ships pay a transit fee based on vessel length or passenger capacity. The highest fee to date was charged in 2010 to the cruise ship Norwegian Pearl, which paid US$375,600. The average toll is around US$54,000.

The lowest toll ever paid was 36 cents, by American Richard Halliburton who swam the Panama Canal in 1928.

We made our transit from the Pacific side to Gatun Lake on board a small tour ship, tucked in behind the Desert Osprey, one of the Panamax class ships that were built to just fit in the confines of the old canal. Rail-based tractors keep the larger ships centred in the canal and provide forward momentum for the vessels. The engineers in our group spent their time inspecting the walls of the locks, still functional 100 years after they were poured. One visitor marveled at how the designers of the canal could have known how big the ships would be. You get your smiles where you can.

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San Blas Early the next morning, we left Panama City to fly over the isthmus to Playon Chico where we would be hosted by the Kuna people at Yandup Lodge, a short boat ride from the local village. The plane ride was somewhat hair raising. Descending through a mountain pass to line up with the airstrip, the automatic warning system started a constant warning “terrain, terrain, pull up, pull up.”

Since I’m writing this, we obviously made the passage safely, thanks to our two pilots.

Boarding our water taxi, we headed into the sunrise to Yandup Island where we would spend the next 3 days with no phones, no television, no email, and no worries. If a place can be called paradise, this just might be it. About the size of a football field, the island sports a dozen cabins, a dining room and several cabanas by the beach. Our cabin was over the water at the end of a wooden bridge. Complete with an ensuite bath and shower, our home away from home included a couple of hammocks as well as a comfortable bed complete with mosquito net. Looking through the cracks between the floor boards we could see, and hear, the sea below us. Doors were locked by means of a simple wooden peg.

Meals are based on the catch of the day with vegetables and poultry products from the Kuna farms on shore. Fresh lobster was available at an added cost of $10 well worth the price. Beer and rum could also be had at a reasonable cost. Both were very good.

Sitting at dinner, we struck up a conversation with a couple from Campbell River, a town just north of our home in Comox, BC. It’s a small world. The conversation lasted into the evening over a bottle of local rum until we were very politely asked to vacate the premises so our hosts could get to bed, about 8 PM.

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We soon got into the rhythm of life at Yandup. At key times a conch was sounded, our signal to assemble. Daily routine started with getting up and ready for the day, the conch called us to breakfast, then we were free to relax in our hammocks.

Around 10 AM the conch called us to the boats to venture out to one of the other islands to swim and snorkel on the reefs. Returning to the lodge we waited for the conch to announce lunch, then hammock time again. Mid-afternoon the conch once again called us to the boats for another bit of exploration. One day we toured the mangroves, another day we visited the mainland where we were taken to the local graveyard where ancestors are honoured. A visit to the host village of Playon Chico rounded out the options.

The San Blas Islands are truly beautiful. Many of the islands are uninhabited, offering quiet beaches and palm groves to explore.

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The Kuna people proved to be exceptional hosts, anxious to make sure that we were happy and comfortable. Wherever we went we were welcomed with a nod and a smile, cameras are welcome, but there are rules. It is not permissible to take pictures of children, before taking a picture of a person, you have ask for permission, and every picture of a Kuna needs to be paid for, the going rate was about a dollar. Local artisans will happily sell you their goods, but bargaining is considered to be rude.

The Kuna people had the first autonomous indigenous territory in Latin America. They are the second smallest in stature, following the Pygmies of Africa. They have the highest rate of albinism in the world, about 1 in 100 Kunas. Albinos in Kuna culture are considered a special race of people, and have the specific duty of defending the Moon against a dragon which tries to eat it during a lunar eclipse. They are the only people allowed to go outside on the night of a lunar eclipse and to use specially made bows and arrows to shoot down the dragon.

The Kuna society is matrilineal. Men move to the woman’s family and take the last name of their spouse.

The hammock is central to Kuna life, they sleep in Hammocks, they are conceived in hammocks and when they join their ancestors, they are buried in a hammock hanging in a wood-lined pit in the hills above the village where they observe, and comment on, the progress of the community.

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Costa Rica From Yandup Lodge, we made our way back to Panama City to board a flight to San Jose in Costa Rica. A shuttle took us to Tamarindo on the Pacific coast. Tamarindo is the quintessential “surfer town.”

Surfers and surf boards are everywhere, swimming can prove to be an adventure when the waves are coming in. During our stay, we rented a car to explore the surrounding area. At first, driving was a learning experience, but once you realise that the only rule seems to be “don’t hit anything,” everything makes sense.

North of Tamarindo, we found many small beach communities complete with bars and restaurants. At one of these sea-side towns we found the best ceviche that we had ever tasted. It was very fresh, so fresh in fact that it took about 30 minutes for it to arrive at our table. The beer was plentiful and the wait was worth it. Further to the north, we were stopped by a river flowing across the road. Not having a 4x4 or the insurance required, we opted to head back to our hotel for happy hour and a stroll through town to find something for dinner.

Our next excursion took us about two hours south to Samara, a village on the beach on the southern shore of the peninsula. Swimming here was a bit less daunting than at Tamarindo. Fewer large waves that day meant fewer surfers.

The village was replete with several beach-side bars with a good selection of local beers and snacks, just what we needed after a long swim. Back in Tamarindo for happy hour and dinner, we were treated to one of the area’s spectacular sunsets.

Sitting near the beach with our drinks, two for the price of one, we watched as boats sailed past the sun as it dipped into the ocean. A fitting end to a long day.

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The next day found us on our way to the rain forests in the volcanic mountains in the interior. The roads were an adventure, winding through the mountains with cliffs on one side and shear drops on the other‌ not a guard rail in sight. The views on the way were worth the effort, though.

High up in the volcanic range, we stopped for a trek through the rainforest that led us to a picturesque waterfall. Along the way we could hear the quetzal birds high up in the trees, unfortunately, none came close enough to see without a strong spotting scope.

High up in the rainforest, we were surrounded by cool mist which necessitated a sweater for warmth and a raincoat to stay dry. The rainforest is in a protected biological zone at Palo Verde. Visitors are welcome to hike the trails on their own or join one of the guided tours offered daily. The restaurant in the reserve prepared a tasty lunch at the end of our exploration.

Two hours on the winding road brought us back to Tamarindo for the evening and the now familiar happy hour celebration. We found a restaurant that specializes in Chicken To Go, so chicken togo it was. Evening brings a transformation to Tamarindo. Bathing suits give way to evening dress and sunlight is replaced with lamplight. Local shops stay open late and it seems that the bars never close.

We spent the following days on the beach, sun bathing, swimming, and boogie boarding in the waves. Beach vendors are plentiful in Tamarindo, selling everything from hats to jewelry. For a small fee, you can go for a horse back ride along the water’s edge or rent a beach chair or cabana for the day. In need of a snack? Find one of the street barbeque vendors, the chicken is very good.

In all, we spent a week at Tamarindo and area before we moved on to our next adventure.

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The Quetzal Highway Cancun to Belize City Leaving Tamarindo, we flew to Cancun where we would meet up with a Tucan Tours group for the next leg of our journey through Central America. Our travelling companions hailed from England, Australia, France, Germany, Belgium, New Zealand, and Canada. We would spend the following ten days together exploring the land of the Maya.

From Cancun, our first stop was a short distance away at Playa del Carmen where we spent the day taking in the flavour of the town. Playa is a colourful place of shops, bars, and restaurants serving a bustling tourist market. Its beaches attract visitors from around the globe and local ferries take passengers from Playa to the off-shore island of Cozumel.

From Playa we travelled to Chetumal to cross the border into Belize. Across the border, we changed from our private shuttle to one of the ubiquitous “chicken buses.� The chicken bus is what any Norte Americano would recognize immediately as a school bus. Often re-painted from the expected yellow to more vibrant colours and tricked out with lots of chrome, the interior would be instantly familiar to any student from Canada. The chicken bus makes regular and irregular stops along the highway, picking up and dropping off travelers. Luckily, there were no chickens on our bus that day. Striking up a conversation with one of the local riders, I got an impromptu tutorial on the best beers of Belize. Local intelligence says that Belikin is the finest, the beer of Belize.

Our first stop in Belize was Belize City where we disembarked from the chicken bus and made our way to the harbour to catch a boat to Caye Caulker. While waiting at the harbour centre, a fellow named Eric said that he would take care of all our needs, so he cleared a few tables for us and made sure that we had sufficient Belikin and fries while we waited, Eric got a good tip that day.

Bidding Eric a very good day, we boarded our shuttle boats for the ride to Caye Caulker about 25 km north and east of the city. The Caye would be our home for the next two days. Going from Belize City to Caye Caulker is like leaving one reality and entering another. From the bustle of the city, we found ourselves immersed in an environment more reminiscent of Jamaica. Sand, sea and sun are the foundation of the Caye. No cars, just golf carts and bicycles.

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Caye Caulker In contrast to the Mayan Rivera in Mexico, Caye Caulker is Caribbean. The way of life is more laid back and relaxed. If it doesn’t get done today, there is always tomorrow.

A highlight of our time on the Caye was a snorkeling trip to the nearby barrier reef. The reef is well populated with the various tropical reef fish that are common to the Caribbean. Rays, angle fish, tangs, sergeant majors, parrot fish, nurse sharks could be seen at the dive sites we visited that day. Swimming with the nurse sharks was an interesting experience. Standing on the side of the boat, my mind said “nurse sharks are harmless” the part of my mind responsible for preservation of self was screaming “those are sharks!” Taking the plunge we found ourselves surrounded by the sharks. The adrenaline rush was immediate.

Back on the Caye, we had ample time to explore the small island and to take in the local ambiance that the town exudes in ample measure. The people of Caye Caulker, like most other Belizeans, speak English and Creole, Creole is a very relaxed version of English spoken at anything but a relaxed speed. We learned one phrase… “howmuchaclock,” Creole for “what time is it?” Everyone we encountered seemed to have a well honed sense of humour. Walking down Front Street, we spotted a particularly Rastafarian-looking fellow, a local artist. When I asked him if I could take a picture, he asked “How much ya contributin?” I handed him 4 Belizean dollars, about 2 Canadian. He looked at me and said, “Mon, I can’t even buy a joint with that.” When I said that was the going rate that day, he laughed and said, “Ok mon, take some pictures.”

Elsewhere on the Caye, we found a grove of palms strung with hammocks, obviously a place to take life easy. Several restaurants and coffee shops provide ample opportunity to experience the local flavours.

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Heavy traffic on Caye Caulker is one or two golf carts. The local building supply store delivers to the door via golf cart and wagon, watch out for wide turns.

In 1961, Hurricane Hattie opened a small channel called The Split, between what are now the north and south islands. The hurricane damage was minimal, but the local people dredged out the channel by hand to make a passage for canoes. Over the years, tidal action has deepened The Split to a depth of six metres. That’s enough for a good size boat, making for short transit time from one side of the Caye to the other. The village is building a bridge over The Split. It’s a slow process so we’ll have to check back in a few years.

On the north side of the Caye we found an idyllic atmosphere, making the south side look positively busy. A young man sitting on a dock immediately brought up memories of Otis Redding’s Sittin on the dock of the bay.

Even though the Caye is relatively small, there is a lot to explore. The 30 hotels and hostels support the tourism of the island. Fishing charters, snorkeling tours and sight seeing flights to Belize’s Great Blue Hole draw visitors from around the globe. While tourists are expected to conduct themselves in a conscientious manner, the basic rules of conduct seem to be “No shirt, no shoes, no problem” and “Betta Nut Litta.”

The Caye is a great place to kick off your shoes and walk barefoot down the sandy streets and maybe take in a little Reggae with a Belikin.

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San Ignacio Back on a chicken bus, we travelled about 115km to San Ignacio, the second largest community in Belize. The city is an economic and cultural hub with a large farmers market and a busy downtown shopping district. San Ignacio attracts visitors for many reasons. Some come for the caves while others come to experience the Mayan ruins in the city and the surrounding area.

While most of our companions opted for the caving, we decided to pass on that adventure in favour of visiting the Mayan site of Cahal Pech meaning "Place of the Ticks" in the Yucatรกn Maya language. Hiring a cab, we made our way to the ruins early in the morning while the mist still hung heavily in the hills above the city providing another worldly atmosphere at the site.

Cahal Pech was a palatial, hilltop home for an elite Maya family, with evidence of continuous habitation dated to as far back as 1200 BC through to the 9 th century AD, making Cahal Pech one of the oldest recognizably Maya sites in Western Belize. Although the site is under protection of the National Institute of Archaeology and access is limited, we were given free reign to explore the plazas and buildings. Several buildings and plazas make up the site.

Excavation of Cahal Pech started in 1988 and was mostly completed in 2000. Some of what remains is buried in centuries of accumulated soil and trees have overgrown many of the buildings.

The site contains several tall buildings based on the Mayan talud tablero (base and platform) style common to other ancient sites throughout Mexico and Central America. The most striking building is finished with stucco which made it stand out in the mist like a ghostly beacon. Along with residential and administrative buildings, Cahal Pech had two ball courts where the traditional ballgame told of in the Popol Vuh, the sacred book of the Quiche Maya

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Following our visit to Cahal Pech, we met up with two of our companions who had also decided to pass on the caving adventure. The four of us found ourselves at the Green Iguana Conservation Project sponsored by and housed at the San Ignacio Resort Hotel. The Project was created in 1996 by Mariam Roberson and Daniel Velasquez in response to the decreasing survival rate of Green Iguanas in Belize, mostly from overhunting. Mrs. Roberson and Mr. Velasquez established a reserve to protect the species and to educate people about the plight of these reptiles.

The Project raises Iguanas from the hatchling to juvenile stage prior to releasing them into their natural habitat. Visitors to the Project are encouraged to feed and hold the gentle creatures to increase awareness of their situation. The doors to the enclosures where the breeding adults are housed swing inward and are not locked. This has allowed iguanas from the surrounding forest to come into the enclosure to share their genes and get a free meal in the bargain.

After meeting with the iguanas, we walked through the city to the farmers market where we did some shopping and attempted to buy some of the local food. This proved to be rather comical.

None of us had any knowledge of the local language and the cook didn’t speak any English or Spanish. We did determine what green was so we ordered something that looked like a cross between a scone and a tortilla. Cooked over an iron plate, it was indeed green and, although the taste was best described as green as well, it made for a good snack. A long hike brought us back to our hotel where we spent some time in the pool with a few drinks to cool down and prepare for later events.

That evening we visited a local home where we were taught how to make tortillas. The host family made sure that we had enough to eat and a sufficient amount to drink. Rum and beer were the order of the evening.

Early the next morning we boarded a private bus which would take us into the PetĂŠn region of Guatemala and the old city of Tikal.

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Guatemala Tikal It has been said that if any Mayan city had aspirations to become the capital of the Maya world, it was Tikal. Located in the Petén rain forest of northern Guatemala, Tikal’s population has been estimated at about 90,000 people. Tikal was a living city for 1,500 years from 600 BC to 900 AD, and archaeologists know of at least 33 rulers in a dynastic line there. Then Tikal was suddenly abandoned, with no sign of attack or internal rebellion. Its people just walked away and the jungle swallowed up Tikal for more than 1,000 years.

Several stone pillars called stela display the written history of Tikal beginning with its ninth ruler, Foliated Jaguar. He appears on Stela 29 in full costume; on the back of the stela is a single Mayan calendar date corresponding to July 6, 292 A.D. Foliated Jaguar is shown wearing a large headdress and holding a double-headed serpent bar - a symbol of Maya royal authority. Ruler 12 is of interest because some scholars believe that Une’ Balam was a woman, making her the earliest known Maya queen. Her son ruled until 359, then power passed to a man named Jaguar Paw. It was during the reign of Jaguar Paw that Tikal became a truly major city.

Jaguar Paw’s relationship with Teotihuacan, the great city of the Maya in Mexico, brought the arrival of a warlord, Fireborn, on January 15, 378.

Fireborn was the emissary of the Teotihuacan king named Spearthrower Owl. The texts also note that on that very same day, Tikal’s ruler, Jaguar Paw, died. The events that followed changed not only Tikal but also the entire Maya world.

Spearthrower Owl’s son, a Teotihuacan prince named First Crocodile, was installed on the Tikal throne. Oddly, archaeology shows that this transition was peaceful and that Jaguar Paw was buried with honor, and his palace remained untouched for the rest of Tikal’s history. Decorated pots, among the finest ever made in the Mayan world, tell the story of a peaceful relationship between Tikal and Teotihuacan .

The shear size of Tikal is hard to comprehend. Standing on the temple platform high over the plaza, we could see the tops of other temples rising above the forest far off in the distance.

Walking from the reception centre to the site on our guided tour, we passed a group of coati, the racoon of Central America. These little animals went about their business barely noticing our presence.

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Flores From Tikal we drove to Flores, an island town situated on Lake Petén Itzá.

In the 13th century, the Itzá people left the Yucatán region and built the city later known as Tayasal as their capital. They called it Noh Petén, literally "City Island".

It was also called Tah Itzá, or Place of the Itzá.

Here, on the island of Flores near the shore of Lake Petén Itzá, the last independent Maya state held out against the Spanish conquerors. In 1541, Hernán Cortés came to the island, enroute to Honduras, but, owing to time pressures he needed to move on and did not try to conquer the city.

The Spanish did not return to the island until 1697, when they attacked via boats and destroyed it. Those who could flee hid in the jungle for years. From the ruins of Noh Petén arose the modern city of Flores. The modern city is considered to be the second oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the Americas, after Cholula. Flores is the home to the last Maya Itzá speakers who number less than a dozen, the Itzá language is in danger of disappearing very soon.

Flores is a charming place to visit. Its narrow streets are populated with shops, restaurants and hotels while Catedral Nuestra Señora de Los Remedios y San Pablo Itzá dominates the central hill of the city. Evening brings a change to the northern shore of the island where lakeside cafes, bars and vendors’ stalls come to life.

Our hotel was conveniently situated for exploration of the town with everything within easy walking distance.

That night we dined on green soup and some local tortillas then walked along the lakeshore stopping occasionally to inspect the goods on sale at the little impromptu markets that appeared at sunset.

Our time in Flores was all too brief. The next morning we were called to the bus very early so we could avoid an upcoming demonstration that would close down the highway for 12 hours. The early start was much better than half a day sitting on the bus and it did result in an early arrival at our next stop on our journey.

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Rio Dulce Our next destination on the Quetzal Highway was Rio Dulce, a small community on the river of the same name. Here we found our assigned cabins and got ready for a new adventure. Our group took to the river upstream to see the Castillo de San Felipe de Lara, a Spanish colonial fort at the entrance to Lake Izabal. The site was used by the Spanish for several centuries and is now on the World Heritage Site Tentative List awaiting designation.

Turning from the Castillo, we headed downstream for a trip through the wilderness to Livingston on the Caribbean. Apart from the lush jungle and wildlife, the Rio Dulce is best known as the filming location for the first Tarzan movie in 1932 starring Johnny Weissmuller, Neil Hamilton, C. Aubrey Smith, and Maureen O'Sullivan.

Along the way we saw many birds, pelicans, herons, egrets and the ubiquitous “Jesus Birds� or jacanas that walk on the lily pads that cover parts of the shoreline.

The river is home to local fishers who ply the waters in search of fish for sale to restaurants and resorts in the area. At various points along the way, we came upon the homes of the people who draw their livelihood from the river.

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Livingston At the end of our downstream journey, the river widened out to join the Caribbean Sea at the town of Livingston. Here, another transition takes place, the Mayan influence gives way to the reggae way of life.

The town is noted for its unusual mix of GarĂ­funa*, Afro -Caribbean, Maya and Ladino+ people and culture. The waters around the town are populated with boats that

seem to be there solely to provide gull, terns and pelicans a convenient place to roost.

Making shore at the local harbour, we trekked up into the town to visit the shops and to take in a lunch at one of the restaurants that line the street. Coconut cocktails proved to be popular along with some solid food and more coconut cocktails.

Reversing our path, we soon arrived back at our resort where we enjoyed the pool and some local beer. Dinner was served and we eventually found ourselves comfortably in bed after a long day.

*The GarĂ­funa are mixed-race descendants of African, Island Carib, European, and Arawak people. +The

Ladino people are a mix of mestizo or Hispanicised peoples in Latin America, principally in Central America.

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Antigua The next and last stop on our Central American excursion was the historic city of Antigua in the central highlands of Guatemala famous for its well-preserved Spanish Baroque-influenced architecture as well as a number of ruins of colonial churches. In historic times, the city served as the capital of the Kingdom of Guatemala. Because of the state of preservation of the old colonial buildings, it has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The heart of the city is the Parque Central with its fountain and grassed areas. Around the Parque are examples of grand colonial structures provide an enclosing wall. During the day, vendors sell locally produced art and textiles to visitors.

Wandering the streets of the old city we were bombarded by an explosion of colours. Vibrant yellows, blues and reds adorn the buildings. Pausing on occasion, we watched the inhabitants of the city going about their daily rounds.

In one sector of the city we found the Mercado the central market with its countless stalls offering almost anything that one could imagine. Behind the Mercado, we found the bus station where chicken buses came and went carrying people to and from other places near and far.

At Antigua our journey came to its end, we celebrated with our companions and bid everyone goodbye. The following morning we caught a shuttle to Guatemala city’s airport to return to Cancun‌ but that is another story.

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Central America

© Copyright J Nicklin, 2017

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