Jim Thompson LUXE Bangkok

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Greetings,

Still searching for Jimmy T? Well, the legendary American businessman and one-time spy might have disappeared into thin air that fateful day in 1967, but the legacy of the “Thai Silk King” is still very much alive and kicking.

Just look at the Jim Thompson House Museum, the Bangkok residence of ‘The Man Himself’ and his impressive collection of antiques and Asian art – making it one of Bangkok’s most top-rated and must-see tourist attractions. Strategically placed by the klong (canal) across a community of silk weavers, this is where Jim Thompson lavishly hosted many a dinner party with his gang of well-heeled friends and celebs.

Get a taste of the action at Jim Thompson, A Thai Restaurant for elevated Thai dishes inspired by the Silk King’s adventures, The O.S.S. Room for pic-perf, pinkies-up afternoon tea, Jim’s Terrace for Thai open-air tapas, and Silk Cafe for grab-and-go grub. As dusk falls, The O.S.S. Bar awaits with spirits and cocktails that pay tribute to Jim Thompson’s past as a former spy, shhh.

Still think Jim Thompson is all silk ties, scarves and toiletry bags from your grandmother’s dusty dresser? Well, wake up and smell the silkworm… just as Bangkok has gone from small riverside village to sky-high city of skyscrapers, Jim Thompson has gone ‘Beyond Silk’ to become one of the world’s most exciting and sophisticated lifestyle brands of today.

And now, for the first time ever, Jim Thompson and LUXE have joined hands to bring you an insider guide to the Jim Thompson House Museum, Jim Thompson Heritage Quarter, and the city JT called home for more than 70 years. Get ready to discover Bangkok like never before…

Built in 1958 for his objets d'art (an impressive array of antiques and art collections he’d amassed over the years), the Jim Thompson House Museum was home sweet home for the late James H.W. Thompson in Bangkok.

Nestled within lush gardens, the house-turned-museum is a mish-mash of six derelict teak wood houses sourced mostly from Ayutthaya, which took an entire year to rebuild. Dismantled and pieced together on arrival, Thompson jazzed it up by adding an indoor central staircase and reversed wall panels to flip things ‘round.

Things to look for:

Traditional Thai architecture

Antique Thai and Khmer statuary Chinese blue-and-white Ming and Bencharong ceramics

Fine collection of ancient Thai paintings

Game tables once used by King Rama V of Thailand

Tip: No shoes or selfies allowed. Entry is by guided tour only and available in Thai, English, French, Chinese, and Japanese. Beware of stairs – not for the mobility impaired.

Open 10am-6pm daily (last guided tour at 5pm) / jimthompsonhouse.org

The Jim Thompson Art Center

A mecca for all things arts and culture in Bangkok, the four-storied Jim Thompson Art Center is where local and international artists come together to mingle, swap stories and trade creative ideas. Come for the mix of contempo and trad exhibitions, stay for the ongoing sched of events, lectures and seminars.

Open 10am-6pm daily / jimthompsonartcenter.org

Jim Thompson House Museum

Exhibitions

Two permanent exhibitions give you an inside look at the life and times of Jim Thompson

'The Man Himself '

A multi-hyphenate before his time, who exactly was Jim Thompson, really? The immersive ‘The Man Himself’ exhibition reveals all through a fascinating timeline – from JT’s days as a young boy in America to his mysterious and shocking disappearance.

Didja know? Jim Thompson trained as an architect before joining the army, and came to Thailand at the end of WWII for the US’ Office of Strategic Services (OSS) – yep, the predecessor to the CIA. There, he fell in love with Bangkok’s old-world charm, Siam’s royal history and of course, Thai silk.

This love of silks connected Jim to a community of weavers called Ban Krua, whom he worked with to preserve their local traditions and weaving culture. After showcasing the silks in New York, global demand skyrocketed and Jim Thompson opened his first Bangkok retail shop on Surawong Road.

Shortly after opening, Jim Thompson went missing after going for a walk in the Cameron Highlands in Malaysia. Was he kidnapped by communists, killed in a CIA mission or eaten by a tiger? Nobody knows…

Open 9am-7pm daily / jimthompsonheritagequarter.com

'The Evolving World of Jim Thompson Textiles'

What happened after JT went ‘poof’? Get to know the creative masterminds behind the Thai Silk Company Limited in this fascinating exhibition.

Immerse yourself in the fabulous fabrics and textiles of Jim Thompson in all colours and patterns, from a wall of rainbow-coloured spools – the perfect IG photo spot, BTW – to interactive fabric panels that you can press for more info about the fabric.

What better way to see the brand’s evolution over the past 60 years, from handwoven silks to the fash-forward world of Jim Thompson Home Furnishings. Sew-eet!

9am-7pm daily / jimthompsonheritagequarter.com

Dining

Cap off your visit with a culinary experience at Jim Thompson Heritage Quarter

Jim Thompson, A Thai Restaurant

Prepare for a sucker punch of flavours at Jim Thompson - A Thai Restaurant with a tongue-tingling menu of elevated Thai classics. Inspired by Jim Thompson’s love of entertaining, your taste buds are in for a spice-filled culinary journey that captures the pioneering spirit of JT himself.

Signature dishes:

Se Krong Moo Yarng : Thai BBQ Pork Ribs with Chili Paste, Slow-Cooked on the CharGrill and Served with Grilled Green Lime Nua Steak Thai : Steak of Wagyu Beef Striploin, Char-Grilled with Beef Spice Curry Jus, Sweet Potato and Asian Greens of the Day

Lohn Pu Nim: Crispy Fried Soft Shell Crab with Thai Coconut Chili Relish and Herbs

Open 11:30am-4:30pm (last order 3:30pm) and 6pm-11pm (last order 10pm) Mon-Sun / jimthompsonrestaurant.com

The O.S.S. Room

Tea rooms don't come any prettier than this. Overlooking the gardens of the Jim Thompson House Museum, The O.S.S. Room (named after the Office of Strategic Services) is an idyllic and serene spot to indulge in all things sweet and savoury.

Served in a gorgeous, crimson red box, the afternoon tea set features bite size treats paired with the finest teas in town. Gather the gang and get those pinkies up!

Open 12pm-5pm daily / jimthompsonrestaurant.com

The O.S.S. Bar

tearoom by day and swanky bar by night, The O.S.S. Bar comes alive at dusk with an array of classic and signature cocktails shaken up by JT’s team of expert mixologists.

Park yourself on the breezy outdoor terrace along the klong (aka. canal) to watch the boats float on by. As for the snap-happy, don’t miss the light-up and bubblebobble cocktails.

Signature cocktails:

The Grandpa-pa

The House on the Klong

The Mystery

Open 6pm-12am daily / jimthompsonrestaurant.com

Jim’s Terrace

For lighter bites, head to Jim’s Terrace – an all-day, open-air cafe that sits on the second floor of The Iconic Store. Serving Thai tapas from a mix of homemade and traditional recipes, plus a selection of mouthwatering desserts to share (or not), pair with tea, coffee, cocktails, mocktails and wines while you take in the lush environs of the gardens and trad Thai houses.

Open 10am-7pm daily / jimthompsonrestaurant.com

Silk Cafe

On the go? Make a pit stop at the Silk Cafe for grab-andgo eats such as java, sandos and sweets. Located directly opposite the Jim Thompson House Museum in the beautiful courtyard, sip on iced coffee with coconut water and tropical passion smoothies with a side of chocolate chip cookies. Prime people watching spot, too.

Open 10am-6pm daily / jimthompsonrestaurant.com

The Moonlight Hall

Planning a big event? Whether it’s for personal or work, the bright and spacious Moonlight Hall is ideal for weddings, banquets, meetings and conferences with its state-of-the-art digital media technology. It’s even got an outdoor balcony with canal views.

Capacity: Classroom up to 50 seats / Theatre up to 70 seats / Seated gala dinner up to 80 seats / Cocktail style event up to 100 seats (special arrangements upon request)

Shopping

Take home a piece of Jim Thompson from The Iconic Store and Surawong Flagship Store

The Iconic Store

Stock up on Jim Thompson’s signature designs at The Iconic Store, where you’ll find a wide range of timeless and elegant items – from shirts, dresses, ties and scarves to handbags, hats, makeup bags and more in lustrous silks. Designed with colours to match The Jim Thompson House Museum, elbows at the ready if you plan to get your hands on the highly exclusive and sought-after “House on the Klong” collection.

Must-have items:

Fisherman pants

Scarves

Pocket squares

Surawong Flagship Store

See where it all began at Jim Thompson's original flagship store on Surawong Road. Opened in 1967 just nine days before he mysteriously disappeared, this is your one-stop shop for all things silk.

Start on level one and two for all your fashion musthaves, then head up to 3/F for consignment items. Levels four and five are all about home furnishings. Be sure to get snap-happy on 4/F as you walk through the very extra and very colourful showrooms.

9 Surawong Rd / Home Furnishings Showroom opens 9am-7pm daily / jimthompsonfabrics.com / Fashion Retail Store opens 9am-8pm daily / jimthompson.com

Around

Think it’s all honey-money, ping-pong balls and backpacks? Well, wake up and smell the frangipani. Like any city it has its sauce spots, and like any city you are quite capable of avoiding them. Bangkok is now firmly on the jet set (and medical holiday) circuit, bursting with awesome shopping, eating, drinking, partying and good old-fashioned chilling. So, go on baby, take a deeper bite into the Big Mango...

Overview

Taking frenzied Siam as your centre, extending to the east is Sukhumvit Rd, one of the city’s main arteries, lined with malls and offices, along which are hip nabes Thonglor and Ekamai. To the southwest are Yaowarat, (Chinatown), Silom and Sathorn; running parallel to the Chao Phraya River is Charoen Krung Rd with the riverside hotels. Hugga-mugga Chatuchak Market is north.

Blah Blah

Nov-Feb is the best time to visit, it’s oven-hot MarMay and rainy Jun-Oct with occasional floods Suvarnabhumi Airport to town: 45 mins / 350 baht by cab incl. tolls, traffic dependent; 1500 baht by limo (see Very Useful); Airport Rail Link: 40 mins / 45 baht to Phaya Thai Station in central BKK

Certain public holidays, eg. Buddhist holidays and election days, mean no alcohol in restos and bars Songkran Festival (mid Apr) is a nightmare of filthy water, flour and ‘get the farang’ aka you; avoid like the plague; whereas Loy Krathong Festival (Nov) is a magical joy, don’t miss it (see tourismthailand.org)

You might need ID to get into larger clubs/bars

Smoking is not allowed in all venues with air con Money matters: cash is king, but AliPay, Apple Pay and WeChat pay readily available

Have plenty of small denominations for taxis Odd sois (streets) on one side, evens t’other – easy! Tuk-tuks. Once fun, twice shy. If you like having frizzy hair, a filthy face and reeking of gas, go right ahead Taxis are cheap, but no meter, no go. Download the Grab app – it will become your best friend BTS Skytrain and MRT – great for scooting above or below central Bangkok, especially during peak hours Don’t fiddle with the monks, point with your feet or pass remarks about the royal family

There are dress codes in temples and shrines. Bare shoulders and shorty shorts are strict no-no’s; ditch the hotpants, and wear slip-on footwear

Int’l code for Thailand is +66, Bangkok is 2, once there, dial 02 for local landlines, 08 for mobiles Emergency 191; tourist police 115; tourist info 1672

The following Thai phrases will come in handy...

Sa wah dee (kap) (m) / (ka) (w) : Hello/toodle-oo Kop koon (kap) (m) / (ka) (f) : Thanks, gorgeous Mai aou kap/ka! : Leave me alone you pesky hawker!

...’kay let’s party

Accommodation

For even more fab stays, download the LUXE Bangkok app

The Siam Villa Chiller 3/2 Thanon Khao / 02 206 6999 / thesiamhotel.com

Intimate maximalist on the water, showcasing Bill Bensley’s tropi-luxe and owner Kriss’ gimlet eye for antique finds. Superb spa and muay Thai gym, Chon Thai diner and Deco Bar.

Mandarin Oriental Bangkok Historic Riverside 48 Oriental Ave / 02 659 9000 / mandarinoriental.com

Grand old Phraya-side matriarch for exemplary service, silky rooms/duplexes, sumptuous spa, terraces, starry Le Normandie, saucepot China House and jazzy Bamboo Bar.

Sala Rattanakosin Contempo Riverside 39 Maharat Rd / Rattanakosin Isl / 02 622 1388 / salahospitality.com/rattanakosin

No pool but who gives a jot when there’s stagger palace and Wat Arun views. 15 mod, monochrome beds + lush tubs.

The Okura Prestige Zen Den Park Ventures Ecoplex / 57 Wireless Rd / 02 687 9000 / okurabangkok.com

Float above it all at this understated bower, all paredback nippon elegance and hushed atmos. Two Michelin treats – kaseiki counter Yamazato and Franco-Japanese Elements, plus sky-high Up & Above for tea and ’tails.

Rosewood Bangkok Sensual Stylist 38 Ploenchit Rd / 02 080 0088 / rosewoodhotels.com

Viewy modernista purring with demure sophistication. Allday Euro fare at Lakorn, stellar Sino Nan Bei + clubby Lennon’s and Sense Spa. Splash out for a Sky Pool Studio.

137 Pillars Suites & Residences Sukhumvit Siren 59/1 Sukhumvit Soi 39 / 02 079 7000 / 137pillarsbangkok.com

Polished haven of 34 marbleous bunks bedecked in custom-made silks, furny and deep pile under foot. Beck n’ call butler, infinity pool and fine-dine eats at Nimitr.

Capella Bangkok Riverside Belle 300/2 Charoen Krung Road / 02 098 3888 / capellahotels.com

The first Capella in Thailand overlooks the Chao Phraya river with panoriffic panes and sprawling terraces. Plus, riviera-inspired eats at one-Michy starred Côte by Mauro Colagreco.

Four Seasons Bangkok Class Act 300/1 Charoen Krung Road / 02 032 0888 / fourseasons.com/bangkok

Elegant riverside retreat with 299 rooms and suites designed by Jean-Michel Gathy. Drinks at BKK Social Club, Peking duck and Canto-cuisine at Yu Ting Yuan, plus French classics at Palmier and Italian fare at Riva Del Fiume.

Kimpton Maa-Lai Bangkok Paw-sh Pad 78 Soi Ton So / 02 056 9999 / kimptonmaalaibangkok.com

Lush, green oasis in the city centre above Velaa Sindhorn Village with minimalist-yet-mod rooms and private balconies. Pawsitively pet-friendly.

Glam

Restaurants

Modern Thai

Nahm. Forget the origins, Chef Pim’s palate-tingling take on her native cuisine is as fresh as the interior nip/tuck. The Metropolitan / 27 South Sathorn Rd / 02 625 3388 / 12pm-2pm, 6pm-10pm Wed-Sun / comohotels.com/thailand/como-metropolitan-bangkok/dining

Sra Bua by Kiin Kiin. Michelin mouthfuls of molecular, deconstructed Thai classics in a swish teak-clad salon. Siam Kempinski Hotel / 991/9 Rama 1 Rd / 02 162 9000 / lunch & dinner daily / kempinskibangkok.com

French

Le Normandie. Ravishing rich amber and gold riverview aerie for impeccable service and French finesse. Mandarin Oriental Bangkok / 48 Oriental Ave / 02 659 9000 / 12pm-3:30pm, 6:30pm-11:30pm Wed-Sun / good value set lunch / jackets at dinner / mandarinoriental.com

Savelberg. Light-filled dining room setting the stage for maestro Henk’s enthralling symphony of Gallic-Dutch. 136 / 1 Yen Akat 2 Alley / Chong Nonsi / Yan Nawa / 02 252 8001 / 6pm-10pm Mon-Fri, 12pm-2pm & 6pm-10pm Sat-Sun / savelbergth.com

Smart/Casual

Thai

Jim Thompson, A Thai Restaurant Take your taste buds on a spice-filled culinary journey inspired by Jim Thompson aka. the legendary "Silk King" with elevated Thai classics made for sharing.

6 Kasem San 2 Alley / 061 421 8951 / jimthompsonrestaurant.com

Sorn. Sleek verdant villa raising the bar with khun Ice’s masterful 2-star homage to robust southern flavours. 56 Sukhumvit Soi 26 Soi Ari / Sukhumvit / 099 081 1119 / 6pm-10pm Sun-Fri / sornfinesouthern.com

Paste Bee Satongun’s refined seasonal interpretations of ancient recipes earn her a loyal local following. 3/f / Gaysorn Village / 999 Ploenchit Rd / 02 656 1003 / lunch & dinner daily / pastebangkok.com

Sawaan. Top toque Sujira Pongmorn (Aom) teases with her 10-step seasonal samplers that fly beyond the obvious. 39/19 Soi Suanplu / Sathorn / 02 679 3775 / 5:30pm-11:30pm daily / nab a downstairs table / saawaan.com

Bo.lan. Heritage, slow-food degustation in an atmossy design-centric abode with terrace. Still a game changer. 24 Soi Sukhumvit 53 / 02 260 2962 / contact to reserve table for lunch , 6pm-late Thu-Sun / bolan.co.th

Issaya Siamese Club Divine garden villa repping Ian Kittichai’s rich, farm-to-table flava-raves + clubby bar.

4 Soi Sri Aksorn / Chua Ploeng Rd / Sathorn / 02 672 9040 / hard to locate, so book a Grab / lunch & dinner daily / issaya.com

Thai-Asian Canvas. Smart copper n’ wood counter charting an original course with a Texan reworking of Thai. 113/9-10 Sukhumvit soi 55 / 099 614 1158 / 6pm-9.30pm daily / canvasbangkok.com

Thai-Int’l

Le Du. Mind the drab decor, you’re here for homeboy Ton’s inventive east-west saucery. Natty wine list too.

399/3 Soi Silom 7 / 09 2919 9969 / dinner Mon-Sat / ledubkk.com / cosy up for family recipes at laid-back Baan / 139/5 Wireless Rd / 02 655 8995 / lunch & dinner Wed-Mon / baanbkk.com

Thai-Nordic

Front Room. Chef Fae’s stint in northern Europe infuses every nuance of her envelope-pushing dégustations.

Waldorf Astoria / 151 Ratchadamri Rd / 02 846 8847 / 11:30am-3pm, 5:30pm-10pm daily / 7- or 10-course sets plus à la carte / hilton.com/en/ hotels/bkkwawa-waldorf-astoria-bangkok

German

Sühring Modern gastrodome for wunder-twins Thomas and Matthias’ delectable, creative riffs on family faves. Soi 3 / 10 Yen Akat Rd / 02 107 2777 / Lunch and dinner Thu-Sat, Dinner only Wed, Closed Mon & Tue / restaurantsuhring.com

Italian

Opus Schlick urban wine bar with delish Italian fare, pano windows, contempo clean whites and chic clique. 64 Pan Rd / Silom / 95 873 3690 / dinner daily / wbopus.com

Contemporary Indian

Gaggan Anand. The don boldly returns with boundarypushing epic sets devised to tingle more than taste buds.

68 Sukhumvit Soi 31 / 98 883 1022 / reservations@gaggananand.com / set menus, 5:30pm-9pm Thu-Sun / gaggan.com

Indian-Asian

Gaa. Experimental mash-up of Thai, Indian and Japanese by scribe-turned Asia’s culinary queen Garima Arora. 46 Sukhumvit 53 Alley, Khlong Tan Nuea, Watthana / 63 987 4747 / dinner daily from 5:30pm, Lunch at 12pm onwards Weekends / gaabkk.com

Chinese

Nan Bei Sumptuous Art Deco salon drawing stylistas and fooderati alike with its exquisite north-south fare. Rosewood Bangkok / 38 Ploenchit Rd / 02 080 0088 / 11:30am-2:30pm & 6pm-10:30pm daily / rosewoodhotels.com

International

Eat Me. Boho meets cosmo sweetie with artwork, balcony and a global crowd here for the ambi as well as the food. 1/6 Soi Pipat 2 / Silom / 02 238 0931 / dinner daily / eatmerestaurant.com

Relaxed

Thai

Khua Kling + Pak Sod. You’re here to eat not linger at this spice bomb. Brave of tongue? Try the kaeng tai pla. 98/1 Thonglor 5 / 86 053 7779 / lunch & dinner daily / khuaklingpaksod.com

Supanniga Eating Room. Ditch pad Thai and graze instead on granny’s original recipes at this chic, retro lounge. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 / 91 774 9808 / lunch & dinner daily / take sips on the rooftop / + branches / supannigaeatingroom.com

Thai-Int’l

80/20. Retro shophouse looks and vibe, but the progressive odes to flora and fauna are anything but. 1052-1054 Charoen Krung Rd / 6pm-11pm Wed-Sun / 99 118 2200

Sample street flavours without the side of heat and grit at Siam Paragon Foodhall, Eathai @ Central Embassy or SOOK SIAM at ICONSIAM.

Lunch and Brunch

Brunch

Roast. Huevos, rosti and waffles are signature, but it’s all seriously scrummy at this casj all-day diner. Top joe. T1 / The Commons / 335/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 / Thonglor / 96 340 3029 / 9am10pm daily / roastbkk.com

Toby’s. Bright and airy Aussie-style cafe with all-day brunch incl. seafood, pastas, salads and sweets. Yum. 75 Sukhumvit 38 Alley / 02 712 1774 / facebook.com/tobysbkk

Sarnies. Forget the moniker, it’s all about the divine desserts, cakes and brews at this shab-fab hip-ship. 101-103 / 44 Charoen Krung Rd / 65 816 1655 / 8am-10pm daily

Med-Asian

Broccoli Revolution Even ardent carnivores will be swayed by this leafy plant-based champ. Top brekky bowls. 899 Sukhumvit Soi 49 / 02 662 5001 / 8am-9pm daily / broccolirevolution.com

The hotel Sunday brunch for around-the-world feasting can be found at St Regis’ Viu / 159 Ratchadamri Rd / 02 207 7777

Coffee , Cha and Cake

The O.S.S. Room. Serene and classy spot in the Jim Thompson Heritage Quarter to indulge in all things sweet and savoury, with views of the JT House Museum to boot.

6 Kasem San 2 Alley / 063 273 0719 / jimthompsonrestaurant.com

Rocket Coffeebar. Scandi-tinged java king fuelling hipanistas with house-baked ryes and feel-good bites. 149 Sathorn Soi 12 / Sathorn / 96 791 3192 / 7am-5pm daily / + branches / rocketbkk.com

Peacock Alley. Social preening over tea and fancies. Waldorf Astoria / 151 Ratchadamri Rd / 02 846 8848 / 10am-9:30pm daily / hilton.com/en/hotels/bkkwawa-waldorf-astoria-bangkok

Bars

Sip & Swirl

The O.S.S. Bar. Swanky and plush bar inside the Jim Thompson Heritage Quarter with artisanal cocktails inspired by JT's enigmatic life and legacy.

6 Kasem San 2 Alley / 063 273 0719 / jimthompsonrestaurant.com

Glam

The Loft & Champagne Bar. Vintage fizz putting on the ritz at the Waldorf’s opulent ode to the NYC original. Waldorf Astoria / 151 Ratchadamri Rd / 02 846 8851 / 5pm-late daily / hilton.com/en/hotels/bkkwawa-waldorf-astoria-bangkok

Post-Prandial

The Bamboo Bar. Smouldering icon holding on fast to her whisky, jazz and zebra print. The cat’s PJs for live music. Mandarin Oriental / 48 Oriental Ave / 02 659 9000 / 5pm-1am MonThu, till 2am Fri-Sat / mandarinoriental.com

J. Boroski Mixology. It’s a bugger to say, let alone find, but persist for Joseph’s magical tinctures. Just swell. 16 125/16 Sukhumvit Soi 55 / 02 712 6025 / 6:30pm-3am Daily

Rabbit Hole. Down you go for slinky atmos + triff pours. 125 Sukhumvit Soi 55 / 98 532 3500 / 7pm-2am daily / rabbitholebkk.com

Old Town

Teens of Thailand Nothing juvenile about this dim-lit, shab-fab gin joint, distilling Hanami for creative types.

76 Soi Nana / Chinatown / 97 003 1173 / 6pm-1am daily / lil’ sib Asia Today also titilates with inventive Thai pours / 35 Soi Maitri Chit / 097 134 4704 / 6pm-1am daily

Tep Bar. Artsy cosy corner saloon invoking ye olde Siam with herbal whiskies, fiery flaves and trad live tunes. 69-71 Soi Nana / Chinatown / 098 467 2944 / 6pm-12am Mon-Thu, 6pm-1am Fri, 5pm-1am Sat, 5pm-12am Sun

Standout Stores

Jim Thompson Surawong Flagship. Home base for the Thai

Silk King's eponymous brand with fashion, consignment, home furnishings and more. Tip: strike a pose in the funky showrooms.

9 Surawong Rd / 02 632 8100 / jimthompson.com

Top of the Frocks

Vatanika. On-point ladylike threads bold in hue and pattern. Ms Delevingne is a fan, and now so are you.

1f / Siam Paragon / 02 663 7258 / 10am-6pm Mon-Fri / vatanika-design.com

Sister Love

Sretsis. Magical closet of fairytale and whimsy racking sibling-designed uber-femme frocks, baubles and bling.

2/F / Central Embassy / 02 160 5874 / 10am-8pm daily / + Siam Paragon / sretsis.com

Names Dahling!

Labellist Vintage Vibes. Mint condish, pre-loved heavyhitters Hermès, Chanel et al plus a vault of costume bling.

2f / Gaysorn Village / 80 565 6156 / 11am-7pm daily / see Shopping/Thong Lor for more second-hand vaults / @LabellistVintageVibes

Princely Titfers

MonPanama . Chic Anne-Claude handpicks the finest Ecadrorian hats to import direct, plus a rainbow of Colombian Wayuu bags and LatAm accoutrements. Call Annie on 086 176 8179 / appt. only / also available at Mandarin Oriental, Rosewood and St. Regis / Monpanama.com

Wearable Art

Loom & Reed. Vintage, carefully sourced Indian and Thai textiles and accessories, run by the lovely Khun Pin. 275/28 Samsen Rd / 02 628 6315 / 9am-4pm Mon-Thur, 9am-3pm Fri, 9am2pm Sat / @loom-and-reed

Home Run

Incredible. Stylists and magpies love a rummage through this eclectic range of indoor/outdoor furny and antiques. 4 Sukhumvit Soi 23 / Wattana Bangkok / 02 260 9690 / 10am-7pm Mon-Sun / hunky Asian bro Eligible is next door, and makes to order / 02 662 8053 / 10am-6pm daily

Couch Surfer

Papaya. Warehouse stacked to the rafters with funky 60s and 70s retro/repro furny and decor for sale and rent. Ladphrao Rd Soi 55/2 / Khun Tong at 02 539 8220 can direct your driver / 9:30am-7pm daily / smaller Tuba Design has a cute bar and is easier to locate / 34 Ekamai Soi 21 (Soi Chamchun) / 02 711 5500 / 10am-2am daily

Booky Nook

Hardcover. Lofty mezzanine of collectible design tomes. Open House / 3f / Central Embassy / 1030 Phloen Chit Rd / 02 160 5949 / 10am-1opm daily / hardcovershoponline.com

Add a Little Sparkle

Pirada Gems Forgo the trad collections on display and have K Gong’s master goldmsmith copy your design, or a loved or lost piece. Ace for cleaning, resetting and upcycling.

Gf / All Season's place / Wireless Rd / 02 266 4344 / WhatsApp on 087 108 7770 / 11am-6pm Mon-Sat or by appt Sun Head Turners

P.Tendercool. Exquisite heirloom-worthy tables made with age-old techniques in reclaimed wood.

48-58 Charoen Krung 30 / Khwaeng Bang Rak / 02 266 4344 / 10am-6:30pm Mon-Sat / custom work welcome / ask to see the workshop / ptendercool.com

Objet D’aah

Alexander Lamont. Homage to trad Siamese skills n’ early C.20th looks via swanky shagreen, si≠lverware and bronze Warehouse 30 / 60/1 Charoenkrung Soi 30 / 2233 4968 / alexanderlamont.com

Antiques

There are heavy restrictions on exporting genuine Thai treasures (and Buddhas), so ensure you have all the proper documentation.

Silom House of Chao Esteemed Aladdin’s cave of bygone Burmese/Thai curios and furniture spread across 3 floors + a nice line in ancient doorways. Happy rooting. 9/1 Decho Rd / 92 273 5030 / 10am-7pm daily Sukhumvit Paul ’ s Antiques . Large 70s bungalow stacked with, Burmese/Thai colonial furniture, statues and carvings. 50 Soi 13 Sukhumvit Rd / 02 253 9025 / 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, by appt only Sun / paulsantiques.com

Activities

Super Stupas

The Grand Palace/Wat Pho are unmissable, but these joints are sacred so don’t wear your mink cutoffs or have bare shoulders. Wear easily-removed kicks as they’ll be on and off all damn day. Here’s the best way to do it. Start 9am – latest – and take the public express boat / chaophrayaexpressboat.com / from Saphan Thaksin Pier (avoid the tourist vessel). For less than 40 baht, sail along the magnificent Chao Phraya, ogling working boats, architectural hits (and misses), glittery temples and everyday life along the way. After 15-20 mins, alight at Tha Chang Pier / #9 / and follow the crowds to the Grand Palace / 8.30am-3.30pm (closed noon-1pm) / pick up an audio guide and prepare to marvel, it really is stupa-endous. Tie in with a visit to the Museum of Textiles (see below). Whip yourself into a cab and cruise on down around the block to Wat Pho (which, if you’re facing the river, is to the left of the Grand Palace). Stilies off and have a gander at the stunning Reclining Buddha. If you can stand the heat, stroll through to the Laura Ashley-meets-Gaudí chedi courtyard next door. Parched? Exit onto Maharat Rd, cross over to the river side and shuffle left; at the end of Tha Tien Alley you’ll spy schlick bunker Sala Rattanakosin (see Accommodation) for rooftop sips and stagger views of the Grand Palace, Wat Arun and river – cin cin!.

FABric

Queen Sirikit Museum of Textiles. Fascinating selection of textiles and fashion related to the Royal Court. Grand Palace / 02 225 9430 / 9am-4.30pm daily / qsmtthailand.org

History Buff

The National Museum. The Met it ain’t, but this nip/tucked veteran has a decent edit of ancient art and artefacts. Na Prthat Rd / 02 224 1370 / 8:30am-4pm Wed-Sun / tours in English, French, Japanese and German, at 9.30am Wed-Thu / kids in tow? Try the interactive Museum of Siam / 4 Sanam Chai Rd / 02 225 2777 / 10am-6pm Wed-Mon

Drag Hag

Calypso Cabaret. Kitschy cliche but entertaining no less. Book online or your concierge can arrange tickets. Asiatique The Riverfront / Warehouse #3 / 2194 Charoen Krung Soi 72-76 / 02 688 1415 / 9:30am- 9pm daily / calypsocabaret.com

Sport-matic Muay Thai Boxing Bold, bloody and viscious. Brilliant! Rajadamnern Stadium / Mon, Wed, Thu, Sun / rajadamnern.com

All A-Quiver On The River River Cruises Only got a few hours? Slap on some sun block and zip around Khlong Bangkok Yai on a longtail boat for a fascinating look at tropical waterfront living, but avoid the snake farm. Locate nice Mr Boatman at the private pier at the Mandarin Oriental (see Accommodation) who will aid you in securing a vessel (walk through the hotel gardens, out to the terrace, but don’t look manky, or you won’t get past the watchful foyer staff). Alternatively, go luxe on overnight trips to the glorious ancient ruins of Ayutthaya aboard Manohra Cruises / manohracruises.com / whipping around on one of their meticulously restored rice barges. Or, opt for customised day trips or longer three-day journeys with Thai River Cruises / thairivercruise.com. About 55 mins each way; allow five hours for the round trip including lunch. Walkies

Getting lost in the heat is no joke. Be guided instead through the weird and wonderful streets of Bangkok – from the Old Town to the bizness districts to the riverside. Book a private or custom jaunt with Bangkok walking Adventures / call 081 565 4942 / walkingbangkok.com.

Creative Commons

TCDC. Grand 40s utilitarian GPO turned artistic go-to. Member’s only library, ace exhibits, talks and shop. 1160 Charoen Krung Rd / 02 105 7400 / 10.30am-7pm Tue-Sun / day passes 100 baht / afterwards eat at 80/20 (see Restaurants/Relaxed)

Warehouse 30. offers retail, art, flicks and co-working Charoen Krung Soi 30 / 02 237 5087

Woof Pack. Run with the creative hounds at this ex office tower of art, film, performance and food. zip to the roof. 1/3-9 Sala Daeng / 1 Alley / Silom / 81 825 5628 / check individual venues opening times / woofpackbangkok.com

Handy-cap

Thai Country Club. Smart and prestigious PGA standard course that’s close to town, for tee and then tea time.

88 M. 1 / Bangna Trad / Thambon Pimpa / Bangpakong / Chacheongsao / 30 mins from BKK / members get priority, but your concierge should be able to get you in / 038 562 700 / thaicountryclub.com

Muse-um

Nai Lert Park Heritage Home. A timeless architectural marvel and old family home turned museum, peruse the tropical gardens and lawns while enjoying mod-chic cafes such as the Caviar Cafe, Ma Maison or the famed École Ducasse. 2 2 Witthayu Road / +66 2 253 0123 / nailertgroup.com

Wat’s Hip

Song Wat. It wasn’t voted one of the coolest ‘hoods in the world for nuthin’. Stroll down the 1-km stretch for restos, cafes, shops and galleries interspersed among old Chinese temples and mosques.

Khet Samphanthawong / Instagram @madeinsongwat

Port ‘o’ Cool

Kudi Chin. Home to Thai-Portuguese descendents who settled in Bangkok, this culture-rich and historic nabe on the west side of the river is full of sights for the eyes (and stomach). Try the Khanom Farang Kudi Chin cake that dates back to the Ayutthaya period and other local noms.

Green Lung

Bang Krachao. Find respite inside the ‘Green Lung of Bangkok’ for slow walks and cycling tours alongst the mangrove forests and canals. Don’t miss the Sri Nakhon Khuean Khan Park nearby for chill picnics and hikes.

To Market

Chatuchak Market. There’s no air-con, it’s hot and sticky, but this behemoth of bazaars is oh-so-worth it. Be in by 9.30am and out by noon latest. If you get split up, plan to meet at the clocktower. It’s utterly intimidating to the novice and the size of the SuperBowl, so avoid roaming randomly as many have never been seen again. Aim for Sections 2 & 3 (indie fashion), Section 26 (antiques, fabrics, gemstones and ethnic bobs), Section 7 (contempo art, boho lifestyle and cafes), and Section 8 (drinks at Viva and Aviv, food at Jeed-Jard). DO NOT venture into the centre section for that is where madness lies. Khamphaeng Pet 2 Rd / if travelling by Cab drop off at The Main Gate (Gate 3) or the SkyTrain to Mo Chit Station (exit 1). The Metro to Kamphaeng Phet lands you right inside at Section 2 / 9am-6pm Sat-Sun, 6pm-midnight Fri ( official days). Over a third of stall holders open 7am-6pm Wed-Thu to wholesalers; it’s saner and the public are welcome / chatuchak.org Bangsue Junction . Dig through vintage antiques and secondhand treasures in this quirky market right next to Chatuchak. Cue the nostalgia trip. 511 Kamphaeng Phet 2 Road / +66 2 108 5555 / facebook.com/bangsuejunction Talad Rot Fai Market Aka the train line market, though you’ll be hard pushed to find a choo-choo these days. Stall hop around an eclectic mix of vintage and street fashion, decor, antiques and trinkets and graze from street-food stands. There’s also live music. Dress down and prepare to get hot. Draws a younger crowd.

Soi Srinagarindra 51 / +66 81 827 5885 / 5pm-late Thu-Sun

Chang Chui Night Market The real-life Lockheed TriStar straddling this artisanal compound might get all the hashtags, but it’s not the only reason to schlep out to Bang Phlat. Founded by FlyNow designer Somchai Songwattana, Chang Chui mixes hi-so with low via an array of food trucks, coffee counters, fashion stalls and collectibles demonstrating Thai creativity. Nab a window seat at quirksome Na-oh for zingin Thai-by-way-of-Bondi plates. 460/8 Sirindhorn Rd / Bang Phlat / 081 817 2888 / 11am-11pm daily / changchuibangkok.com

Nang Loeng Market . Bangkok’s first purpose-built market, is one of the city’s oldest and a must for foodies, foragers and shutterbugs – the layout has barely changed in 100+ years ago. Pastel-hued European-style buildings surround a labyrinth of stalls laden with fresh produce and food. Go hungry and go early.

Nakhon Sawan 6 Alley / Khwaeng Wat Sommanat / 8am-3pm Mon-Sat, 8am-5pm Sun

Pak Khlong Talat. Beloved by all and sundry, the 24-hr flower market might have moved indoors, but it’s still bloomin’ marvellous. Go late at night or dawn’s crack for your pick of orchids, roses and flaming-hued marigolds –several stalls also sell boxes. Open for fruit n’ veg by day.

Chak Phet Rd / Mr Memorial Bridge / 24 hrs Mon-Sun

Jodd Fairs Street food, hip threads, handmade crafts and souvenirs right next to Central Rama 9. Haggle hard. Rama IX Road / 09 2713 5599 / IG @jodd_fairs

Chinatown

Hugging the Chao Phraya River, the city’s oldest district has undergone a style renaissance in recent years.

Warehouse 30 WWII industrial space transformed into a photogenic community of art, retail, dining and pop-ups.

Charoen Krung Soi 30 / 02 237 5087 / 7AM – 1AM daily / @warehouse30.bkk

Xiang Gong and Rong Kuak alleys. Snap away at the mishmash of spare car parts, household objets and quaint n’ colourful street art / Talad Noi

Wat Traimit. The world’s largest gold Buddha – wowzer! 661 Charoen Krung Rd / 8am-5pm daily

Bangkok Folk Museum. Affectionate ode to mid-century, middle-class life / 273 Soi Saphan Yao / 02 233 7027 / 9am-4pm Tue-Sun

So Heng Tai Mansion Call ahead to peek inside this atmospheric time capsule

282 Soi Wanit 2 / +669 1414 62666 / 9am-6pm Tue-Sun / @sohengtai

Thai Home Industries. Shabby old teak joint housing an eclectic collection of bronze, pearl and nickel, cottons and tableware.

35 Charoenkrung Soi 40 / 02 234 1736 / Mon-Sat 9am-6.30pm

ATTA Gallery. The place to discover your unique taste in art. Go you! / 48 Charoen Krung 30 / 02 238 6422 / attagallery.com

Find lush hair and skin-boosting Siam Botanicals / 02 126 6617 / siambotanicals.com / out the front.

P. Tendercool. Turning tables (see Advanced Shopping)

Sampeng Lane. Rave-busy market for bright, cheap whatnot. Soi Wanit 1 / 8am-5pm daily / avoid weekends.

River City. Dive inside and go full caveat emptor – but don’t forget to haggle. Masks and lacquerware galore at #319 The Verandah and Beyond; mod art and collectibles at #183 Pagoda. Take sundowners at Viva Aviv The River / #118 / 02 639 6305.

Soi Nana. The hip strip, not the sleaze strip 3, 1 Sukhumvit Rd / Khlong Toei / 7pm to 2am daily

Jack’s Bar. Cheery shack precariously perched on the river. Soi Wai Suean Plu / 08 9138 1922 / noon-midnight daily

The Bamboo Bar. Iconic imbiber (See Bars)

Jua. blink and you’ll miss this mod concrete n’ glass bunker secreting a Tokyo by way of NYC izakaya. + Sake and slick service.

672/49 Charoen Krung 28 / +66 2 103 6598 / Instagram @jua.bkk

80/20. Flora and fauna champ (see Restaurants/Relaxed)

Silom & Sathorn

The closest thing to a CBD. Densely stacked, neon-lit Silom runs alongside embassy-strewn n’ leafy Sathorn.

Mahanakhon Skywalk. Reach for the stars at this teetering 314-m-high glass deck. Beware vertigo and Instagrammers. 114 Narathiwas Rd / 02 677 8721 / 9am to 6pm daily / kingpowermahanakhon.co.th

Neilson Hays Library. Beautifully preserved neoclassical poppet shelving English language tomes to rent, plus leafy cafe (see Lunch).

195 Surawong Rd / 02 233 1731 / 9.30am-5pm Tue-Sun / neilsonhayslibrary.org

Wat Sri Maga Uma Devi. Pic-pretty, incense-shrouded shrine.

2 Pan Rd / 02 238 4007 / 6am-8pm Mon-Thu, till 9pm Fri and 8.3pm Sat-Sun / @hindumeeting.hm

Kathmandu Photo Gallery . Pistachio-hued personal archive and print shop of celebrated photo artist Manit Sriwanichpoom.

87 Pan Rd / 02 234 6700 / 11am-6pm Tue, Thur & Sat only / kathmanduphotobkk.com

Vesper. A G&T just won’t cut it at this grown-up cocktail lair. 10/15 Convent Rd / 02 235 2777 / 5.30PM-2AM daily / vesperbar.co

Le Cabanon. Surf-fresh ingreds, fine-dine techniques and cosy atmos lure even the fussiest of French-pats.

44 Narathiwas Soi 15 / 09 2568 0444 / lunch Fri-Sun, dinner daily / @lecabanonbangkok

100 Mahaseth. Ride the Isaan wave at this teaky charmer.

100 Mahaseth Rd / 02 235 0023 / 11:30am-12am Tue-Sun, Closed Mon / 100mahaseth.com

See Restaurants Smart/Casual for top neighbourhood tables Le Du, Sühring , Saawaan , Issaya , Nahm ; local imbibers Maggie Choo’s and Smalls are in Bars.

Pathumwan

Mall, mall, mall – welcome to retailvarna.

Jim Thompson House Museum and Jim Thompson Heritage Quarter (See Intro)

Bangkok Art & Culture Centre. (See Art).

Lumpini Park Verdant central lung offering rare green respite and people-watching. Go early morning or dusk –bonus points for spotting the gigantic monitor lizards. Entrances on Sarasin Rd, Wireless Rd and Rama 4 / 4.30am-10pm daily

Tonson Gallery. Christian Liaigre-designed art powerhouse. 100 Soi Tonson / 02 010 5813 / Thu-Sun 11am-7pm / 100tonsongallery.com

Siri House. Social compound of all things pulled, poured, plated and played. Brunch at Luka and dinner at Tabula Rasa. Shoppable trove of art, books, vinyl and blooms too. 14/2 Soi Somkid / Ploenchit Rd / 094 868 2639 / 10:30am-11pm Wed-Mon, Closed Tue / sirihouse.com

Open House Skip the big-name retail and beeline stright to the 6th floor for this Tokyo-style loft, repping eateries, co-working and exhibition spaces, plus Bangkok’s best bookstore Hardcover. 6f / Central Embassy / Ploenchit Rd / 02 119 7777 / 10am-10pm daily / Instagram @centralchidlom

Central Chidlom. Stalwart of the strip, don’t miss the food hall.

1027 Ploenchit Rd / 02 119 7777 / 10am-10pm daily / centralchidlom.com

Gaysorn Village . Sybaritic tower home to Labellist Vintage Vibes and Alex Lamont (see Standout Stores), fine-diner Paste (see Rest/Smart). Zensual dips at Panpuri Onsen (see Spa). 999 Ploen Chit Rd / 02 656 1149 / 10am-10pm / gaysornvillage.com

Siam Paragon. A few choice tenants and epic food court. 991 Rama 1 Rd / 02 610 8000 / 10am-10pm daily / siamparagon.co.th

Siam Center Stronghold of homegrown fashion n’ schmutter. 979 Rama I Rd / 02 6581000 / 10am-10pm daily / siamcenter.co.th

Polo Fried Chicken Succulent garlicky chook deep fried and served with a side of som tam, sticky rice and indifference. 137/1-2 Soi Sanam Khli / 02 251 2772 / 7am-9pm daily

Baan. Laidback lil’ sib to Le Du (see Restaurants/Smart). 139/5 Wireless Rd / 02 655 8995 / 1am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm Wed-Mon, Closed Tue / baanbkk.com

Akara Sky Hanuman . Thai mythology meets Bangkok sunsets and its glittering skyline on top of the shiny OCC - One City Centre in Phloen Chit. Drink up.

61/F, One City Centre / 548 Phloen Chit Road / +66 92 888 6332 / akaraskyhanuman.com

Asok / Phrom Phong

Beyond the Main Sukhumvit strip is a warren of des- res, leisurelylifestle,andBKK’sveryownlittleTokyoandKorea. Benjakitti Park. What it lacks in shade it makes up for in space. Ratchadaphisek Rd / 5am-9pm daily / go early or late

Green Mile Many Bangkokians don’t know about this elevated pathway linking Benjakiti with Lumpini Park. Hop on at the far end of the car park on the north side of Benjakiti; exit at the Sarasin-Wittayu intersection nr Lumpini. Good for urban running/cycling.

Emsphere The youngest sib to Emporium and Emquarter is a solid megamall with mega retail and food choices. Head to Tribe upstairs for beach club sunsets.

628 Sukhumvit Rd / 02 269 1000 / emsphere.co.th

Dasa Book Cafe. Second-hand star with large collection of English and foreign language lit and non-fiction.

714/4 Sukhumvit Rd / 02 661 2993 / 10am-8pm daily / dasabookcafe.com

Duly Go off the cuff with fine men’s shirts and ties. 55/2 Sukhumvit Soi 49 / 02 662 6647 / 10am-7pm daily / laladuly.co.th

Another Story. Modish cache of Thai-Euro threads, decor and stationery plus cute caff and flower-powered Plant House. EmQuartier / 693,695 Sukhumvit Rd / 02 003 6138 / 10am-10pm daily / @anotherstoryofficial

Paul’s Antiques. (See Advanced Shopping).

Sing Sing Theater. Sizzling scarlet saucepot – get down! Sukhumvit Soi 45 / 063 225 1331 / 9pm-late Tue-Sat / singsingbangkok.com

Alonetogether. Discreet, hushed den of live jazz and refreshingly no-fuss tipples. Solos welcome.

29 Sukhumvit Soi 31 / 82 569 8583 / 7pm-2am daily / @alonetogetherbkk

Top neighbourhood tables include Sorn , Gaggan Anand (See Restaurants/Smart), Appia and El Mercado (Restaurants/Relaxed)

Asia Herb Association. (see Spa and Wellness)

Thonglor & Ekamai

Ground zero for the city’s scene spots, but beware – places open and close quicker than you change your knickers. Get frocked, shod and accessorised a la 20th century at pre-loved closets: 70s-riffing (Un)fashion Vintage / 3 Ekamai Soi 10 / 02 726 9592 / 9am-6pm daily / @unfashioncaf / and lux designer trove The Vintage Store Basement / Eight Thonglor / 88/36 Sukhumvit Soi 55 / 02 713 8548 / 11am-7pm daily / @thevintagestore

The Somchai. Sharp Italian sartorial + fine Brit cobblers. 215 Thonglor Soi 11 / 08 1915 3464 / 12pm-7pm daily / @thesomchaiofficial

24 Kilates. One-stop sneaker vault for him, her and littles. 125/19 Soi Sukumvit 55 (Thonglor Rd) / 86 333 2424 / 11am-6:45pm Tue-Sat, Closed Sun / 24-kts-bkk.com

Phil Coffee. Small-batch single origin java from the north. 65/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51 / 09 7125 4204 / 8am-4:30pm Mon, Wed-Fri, 9am-5:30pm Tue, Sat & Sun / philscoffeecompany.com

Iron Balls Parlour & Saloon. Steampunk home of gin. GF Park Lane / Sukhumvit Soi 63 / 02 714 2269 / 6pm-midnight daily / go for the Soulful Sundays / @ironballsdistillery

Mae Varee Mango Sticky Rice The mecca for all things mango in Bangkok. Smooth, buttery soft and sweet. Get the tri-coloured rice with savoury coconut cream and crispy bean topping. No regrets.

1 Thong Lo / +66 2 392 4804 / facebook.com/Maevareegroup

Rabbit Hole (See Bars)

The Commons. A smorgasboard of fabulous eateries including Roast (see Lunch/Brunch) / 3/F, java joint Roots / 3/F, plus live music nights, nail bar, yoga and workshops with a sustainable bent.

335 Thon glor Soi 17 / 89 152 2677 / 8am-1am daily / second mall at Sala Daeng / 84 091 5421 / thecommonsbkk.com

More starry eats at Canvas, Bo.Lan (See Restaurants/Smart) and Supanniga Eating Room (Restaurants/Relaxed)

Ari

Leafy, laidback enclave providing welcome escape from the Silom-Sukhumvit fray.

Numthong Gallery Go early to avoid the scrummage at this purpose-built depot of Thailand's visionaries .

72/3 Ari Soi 5 / 02 617 7294 / 11am-6pm Tue-Fri / numthongartspace.com

The Decorum Striking glass box of whip-smart gent’s tailoring shoes and clobber repping top names from Savile Row to Osaka.

3 Ari Samphan Soi 5 / 02 126 0229 / 12pm-8pm Mon-Fri, 11am-8pm Sat-Sun / thedecorumbkk.com

Puritan Diet-be-damned at this nostalgic nook of decadence. 46/1 Ari Soi 5 / 02 357 1099 / 1pm-6pm Tue-Fri, from 11am Sat-Sun, Closed Mon / opt for courtyard when weather permits / @puritan.cafe

The Key Room No. 72. Unlock the killer pours at this rougehued dim-lit homage to the 20s inside the Josh Hotel. 19/2 Ari Soi 2 / 02 102 4999 / 6:30pm-12am Mon-Fri, 12:30-1am,6:30pm-12am Sat-Sun / joshhotel.com

Salt. Chic concrete in/out diner drawing a chilled cosmo crowd with its compelling combo of pizza and sushi. Buzz atmos. Ari Soi 4 / 98 742 4989 / 4PM-12AM daily / @saltaree

Art

The Jim Thompson Art Center. A mecca for all things arts and culture in Bangkok ft. contempo and trad exhibitions from local and int’l artists.

10/1 Kasem San 2 Alley / 02 001 5470 / jimthompsonartcenter.org

MOCA . Epic custom-built gallery housing a private cache of 400 current works from over 100 Thai artists.

499 Kamphaengphet 6 Rd / Ladyao / 02 016 5666 / 10am-6pm Tue-Sun, Closed Mon / worth the schlep / mocabangkok.com

Bangkok Art & Culture Centre. Museum for top mod Siam. 939 Rama I Rd / 02 214 6630 / 10am-8pm Tue-Sat, closed Mon / bacc.or.th

100 Tonson Gallery Funky emerging Thai and foreign. 100 Soi Tonson / Ploen Chit Rd / 98 789 6100 / 10am-6pm Thur & Fri, 11am7pm Sat & Sun / 100tonsonfoundation.org

Gallery Ver & Artist+Run. Lofty warehouse collective of experimental and upcoming stars + Tentacles for art n’ java.

2198/10-11 / Soi Taweewattana (Narratiwas 22) / Chan Rd / Chong Nongsi / 02 2103 4067 / noon-6pm Wed-Sun / Fb @galleryver / tentaclesgallery.com

Spa and Wellness

Has stressy Tessie been hit with the ugly stick? Come on over here sugar, and loosen that kaftan... or, for more spas, see the LUXE Bangkok app. Commodious

COMO Shambhala. Streamlined simplicity and urban serenity reign in cream and dark woods with gorgey namesake prods and spot-on massage. Glow for afters. The Metropolitan / 27 South Sathorn Rd / 02 625 3333 / 9am-9.30pm daily / comohotels.com

Luxurious

I.Sawan. Sublime Thai zen garden complex for head-totoe pampering in private ‘bungalows’. Extend overnight.

Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok / 494 Rajadamri Rd / 02 254 6310 / 9am-10pm daily / hyatt.com/en-US/spas/I-Sawan-Residential-Spa-and-Club/home

Keep it Simple

Let’s Relax Spa. Therapeutic massage.

SS6032, 388 Rama I Rd / 02 252 2228 / + branches / letsrelaxspa.com

His n’ Hers Onsen

Panpuri Wellness Discover wide city panos and personal salvation at this sky-high n’ sensual hydro haven. 12/F / Gaysorn Urban Retreat / Ploenchit Rd / 02 2253 8899 / 10.00am-10pm daily / add scrub & massage to your onsen / panpuriwellness.com

Gent’s Club

Black Amber. One for the boys. Wet shaves, sharp cuts, cigars, whisky, and a lil’ something for the weekend, sir? Thonglor Soi 5-7 / 081 869 9393 / 10am-7pm daily

Whatta Ripper!

Pansy’s The ladies here are waxing champs. Decor? What?

Ruamrudee Village / 20/24 Soi Ruamrudee / 02 252 7594 / 9am-6pm Mon-Sat / the bees knees for full-extraction facials

Much-kneaded Asia Herb Association. Fairy-lit Japanese temple of zen to melt away all your knots. Steam saunas, body scrubs, herbal balls and heavenly massages await.

50/6 Sukhumvit Soi 24 / 02 261 7401 / Multiple locations / asiaherb.asia

Very Useful

Doctor, Doctor

BNH Hospital. 24-hr open-to-public medical and A&E. 9/1 Soi Convent / Silom / 02 2022 0700 / also offers great value health check ups / bnhhospital.com. Sukhumvit’s Bumrungrad Hospital is also top-notch / 33 Sukhumvit Soi 3 / 02 066 8888 / bumrungrad.com

Travmin Medical Centre. When you’re feeling crook, give Dr Peter Morley a look

8/F / Alma Link Bldg / 25 Soi Chit Lom / 02 655 1025. Gnasher Relief Oral & Dental Center. One of Bangkok’s worst-kept secrets is its ace dentistry; these pros are our pick.

3/F / Amarin Plaza / Ploen Chit Rd / 02 252 8688-9 / 10am-8pm Mon-Sat / oraldentalcenter.com. BNH (see above) is good for check-ups, cleaning and simple work / appointment required.

Pill Popping

Boots The Chemist. Can’t miss ’em, but this one’s 24-hr. Shop E-F / Ground Kijpanich Bldg / 6-8 Patpong Rd / 02 634 3079

Smooth Landing

Limousine Thailand. The airport can be a nightmare for queues – these lovelies whisk you from gate through immigration to your waiting ride in a trice. Gangway! Call 02 651 0808 / express service is charged on top of motor hire / limousinethailand.com

Getting Around

Grab. Forgo the no-meter hassle of yore: download the app and off you go / grab.com / cash payment and helpful translation

Getting High

Air Tours. Get high over Bangkok or out to Ayutthaya in these tiny three-seater planes. Not for nervous Nellies. Royal Skyways / flights from Don Muang Airport / 02 504 3839-40 / royalskyways.co.th

Eatabout

Chili Paste Tours. Guided gads in Chinatown, historic Bangrak and the Floating Markets. Plus cooking lessons. Call Khun Chin on 094 552 2361 / foodtoursbangkok.com

MasterChef

The Blue Elephant. Take the morning class at this culinary stalwart where the chef drags you to the market, then forces you to create divine dishes, which you then consume. 233 South Sathorn Rd / 02 673 9353 / blueelephant.com. Or, sharpen your skills with Ian Kittichai and other top toques at Issaya Cooking Studio / Central Embassy / 02 160 5636 / 10am-10pm daily / issayastudio.com

Petal Head

Plant House Styley stems, crowns and on-trend bunches. The Commons / 335/1 Sukhumvit Soi 55 / Call 085 021 5300 for delivery / 8.30am-9pm daily / + workshops / planthouse.co

Fashion Emergency

Mall marathon ruined your Loubs? Fret not, ASA heals your heels while you wait and Fix It next door will mend busted seams, hanging hems and zipless zips. B/F / Central Chidlom / 1027 Ploenchit Rd / 02 793-7777 / or if you’re caught with a split seam in Thonglor, nip to Fix & More (see Shop/Soi 55) for alterations

Read All About It Kinokuniya. If only more book shops were like this one. Best branch at 3/F / Siam Paragon / 02 610 9500 / 10am-10pm daily

bk.asia-city.com. Handy portal for local opinion on arts, shopping, dining and nightlife.

LUXE loves

Jim Thompson Heritage Quarter – going way

‘Beyond Silk’ (see Intro)

Rabbithole – hoppin’ good cocktails (see Bars)

Sarnies – java junkies unite (see Restaurants/Brunch)

Capella Bangkok – riverside retreat (see Accom.)

The Loft & Champagne Bar – razzle-dazzle (see Bars)

I Sawan – sublime pampering (see Spa and Wellness)

137 Pillars Suites – swank cribs (see Accom.)

Soi Nana – top tipples (see Bars / Tep, Teens & Ba Hao)

Hardcover– book-lovers rejoice (see Stand/Stores)

The Siam – a lesson in maximalism (see Accommodation) Panpuri Wellness – sky-high zen (see Spa)

Gaa – palate titillator (see Restaurants/Smart)

P. Tendercool – table totty (see Advanced Shopping)

LUXE loathes

Bangkok’s filthy khlongs/canals – liquid coma

Snake, tiger and crocodile farms – tourist rubbish

Floating markets – floating tourist rubbish

LUXE thanks

The super swell Rathasiam Sinlakhun, Erica Fong and Melvina Mak ...couldn’t have done it without you.

Well dear hearts, that wraps it up for this edition, though the gimlet eye of LUXE will be watching to bring you the best, and only the best of Bangkok. But we need your help. Found something you adore or abhor? We love to hear from our readers, so please feel free to unburden your bosom in our shell-like ear – simply email us at editor@luxecityguides.com. Don’t forget to claim your free digital guide; visit luxecityguides.com for destination inspo and follow @luxecityguides on Instagram and Facebook, tagging #LUXELoves when you spy something fabulous. Snazz!

T.T.F.N.

LUXE. Get to the Good Stuff.

While we make every effort to ensure the veracity and validity of our entries, the weather, opening/closing times, hairdressers with curling tongs and a deathwish, and all things that are variable and part of life’s rich tapestry are sadly beyond our control and may change. We therefore cannot be held responsible for any loss or damage, consequential or otherwise.

LUXE City Guides distil priceless information from a crack team of more than 30 savvy, stylish, plugged-in resident curators. Whether you have a few hours or a few days, LUXE is all you need to get the inside scoop on your destination, while sidestepping the drab touristy faff.

Together with the constantly updated, free digital destination guide, LUXE ensures you have the most up-tothe-minute recommendations at your nimble fingertips.

Inside LUXE Bangkok you’ll discover…

• Where to feast on tasty Thai cuisine, from simple street stalls to lush garden villas and former palaces

• The finest silks, jewels, leather, fashion and decor, off the rack or made to order

• Where to sip and shimmy in style, be it at secret imbibers, chic roof decks or hipanista gin joints

• Hidden abodes, indie galleries, temples and palaces in the company of your very own guide

• Unique itineraries that lead you by the hand around the city’s best shopping neighbourhoods

LUXE chooses only the very best, so you choose only the very best.

This edition of LUXE Bangkok was created exclusively for Jim Thompson

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means without the written permission of the publisher. LUXE City Guides and the LUXE logo are trademarks of LUXE Ltd. © LUXE Ltd.

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