Jeweller g&j (sept 2014)

Jeweller the

Aug/Sept 2014

£7.50

The Voice of The Industry

Incorporating

Gems&Jewellery

International Jewellery London Preview Future Trends 2015 Insurance Replacement Scheme — members’ questions answered

31 AUG – 2 SEPT 2014

OLYMPIA LONDON

Aug/Sept 2014 / Volum e 23 / No. 7

Gem-A at IJL Idar-Obe rstein field trip The myste ry the Nur-a of l-Ayn

tresorparis.com

Jeweller

Contents & Contacts |

the

The Voice of The Industry

C O N T E N T S

www.thejewellermagazine.com

A U G / S E P T

1 4

The benefits of association

32

Editor’s Letter

5

Rawlinson Speaks Out

7

Industry News

8

Robert Eden answers questions on the N.A.G.’s new

International News

16

Insurance Replacement Scheme

N.A.G. News

18

Member of the Month

22

IRV Review

24

Education & Training

27

Business Support: Security

28

Business Support: Insurance

39

taking place at IJL – now in its new home at

Feature: Storm

60

Olympia. Plus, a Look Book of collections being

Brand Profile: Graham 1695

62

launched at the show

Opinion: John Henn at CIBJO

64

Antique Jewellery

66

Letters to the Editor

68

Notebook

70

Display Cabinet

72

Last Word

74

Future inspirations

34

A heads-up on colour and design trends for 2015 – courtesy of Swarovski Gemvisions

New sensation!

41

A preview of the features, events and seminars

Antique Jewellery

66

Amy Oliver looks at jewellery created by soldiers in the trenches of World War l

Aug/Sept 2014 / Volume

Gems&Jewellery

23 / No. 7

Gem-A at IJL Idar-Obe rstein field tri p The my stery of the Nur-a l-Ayn

Gem-A at IJL, Idar-Oberstein field trip, the mystery of the Nur-al-Ayn and more…

The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG

Cover Image In conjunction with International Jewellery London 31 Aug – 2 Sept 2014 Olympia Grand, London

Tel: 020 7613 4445 www.jewellers-online.org CEO: Michael Rawlinson michaelr@jewellers-online.org Editor: Belinda Morris bmorris@colony.co.uk

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7749 1705 Fax: 020 7729 0143 ian@jewellers-online.org Publishing Enquiries/ Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford neil@jewellers-online.org Contributors: Robert Eden, John Henn, Amy Oliver

Art Director: Ben Page ben@jewellers-online.org The NAG is responsible for producing The Jeweller and, although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller.

Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

Comment |

Editor’s

Letter y the time this magazine reaches your desk everything might have changed of course,

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This month: “This trend explores the world of flowers, insects and animals (giving generations of jewellers inspiration)…”

but as we go to press there’s a distinctly blustery nip in the air. Nothing to really

moan about, however it does feel as if summer’s over and that autumn is already here; the weather’s on the turn and I blame Bertha. The up-side of this state of climactic affairs is that I’m getting that old, familiar, brand new term feeling.

And for me that air of expectation always coincides with IJL, coming as it does at the beginning of September. The fact that it’s in a new venue – Olympia – is creating an extra frisson, don’t you think? (As I write this, I’ve just received my timetable for workshops at the IRV Loughborough Conference – a back-to-school moment if ever there was one!)

It’s not just the start of a new season (with a festive edge to it), it’s also that the collections seen at IJL, and inspiration gathered, heralds a new year. While last-minute finds for Christmas will be on many shopping lists no doubt, there will also be those hoping to have some light thrown on the new directions for the coming year. My plan (one of many) is to check out

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the Designer Brands, KickStarters and Bright Young Gems, then watch the Runway show to discover which names at the show are picking up on which trends. I’ll then hit the aisles in earnest… well that, as I say, is the plan.

On page 41 we offer a preview of IJL, and our selection from the collections being launched at the show. And for a further fashion forecast there’s Future Inspirations feature (p34) as forewarned can be forearmed when it comes to colours, gemstone cuts, design influences and the like – not just from a buying perspective, but also for seasonal window display concepts.

On that score, if you think that you could use a little extra help when it comes to store display – or any other business-related issues – why not come along to the National Association of Goldsmith’s stand at the show (K30); the education and training team will be on hand to talk about up-and-coming courses and seminars. You can also discover more about the

“In case a shiny new home isn’t enough, the organisers have a bumper line-up of new features, events, exhibitors, seminars for the show…”

many new benefits of being a member of the Association (like the Insurance Replacement Scheme discussed on p32). This year also sees IJL offering Advice Clinics – sponsored by the N.A.G. – for anyone seeking specialised wise counsel. It’s going to be a busy three days – thank heavens for the Late Night Shopping Evening. See you there!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 41

The Voice of the Industry 5

Security Conference

Headline sponsor:

21st October BRE Watford

(Building Research Establishment Ltd) Bucknalls Lane, Watford, WD25 9XX

Secure the future of your business at the N.A.G Security Conference The conference will focus on: t Insights on Snatch and Grab techniques t Robbery – Crime Prevention t Courier Fraud t Current CCTV Technology t Security Procedures for Travelling Representatives t Online and Card Payment Fraud t Practical Demonstrations This conference is free to N.A.G. and BJA members, TH March clients.(All other delegates only £50) You must register in advance for this event.

For registration and further information please contact Hannah Harvey on 020 7613 4445 or events@jewellers-online.org.

Event supported by:

*Please note that this is a preliminary program and subject to change prior to the conference

In conjunction with:

THE NATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF GOLDSMITHS

Comment |

Rawlinson

speaks out With IJL just around the corner, the Association’s CEO Michael Rawlinson highlights just a few of the topical issues we’re focussing on currently. his latest issue of The Jeweller might see the leaves not yet turning on the trees, however our thoughts in the industry are already turning to Christmas. You’ll also, no doubt, be setting your sat navs and checking your tube maps as, in a few days’ time, the trade heads to IJL in its new home at Olympia. There’ll be those last minute festive window display props to find; inspiring ideas to be gathered, challenging seminars to attend and friends old and new to catch up with.

The Association will be in the shop window itself at Olympia as we team up with newly-appointed marketing agency House Creative to showcase the benefits and value of being a member, as well as to highlight why your staff should sign up for our series of JET courses, study the Certificate of Appraisal Theory or attend one of our seminars.

Also front of mind this year at IJL will be the subject of Corporate Social Responsibility.

As an expression, it might sound like corporate jargon, so what does it actually mean? Well, think ethics, traceability, openness and human rights… but this is not just for the ‘do-gooders’. The fact is, as an industry we should seriously consider making these values an integral part of our business.

And it’s not simply a case of being ethical for the sake of it, because being a socially responsible business can significantly enhance your bottom line. Consider this.

How is your business regarded by your customers? Are you seen to be leading the ethical revolution? I read an article recently that highlighted the groundbreaking work of

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the Co-op many years ago and how, today, newer kids on the block (such as Lush) have taken up the challenge of becoming the consumers’ ethical standard bearer.

It’s been successful for them and it can achieve similar results for you. So how have you positioned your business and your reputation on the high street?

I’m sure we’d all agree that we want an ethical industry and a sector that’s morally defensible and knows the difference between right and wrong. But the question is: who is right, and who is wrong? It’s a difficult question. And we all know that opinions differ on what constitutes acceptable behaviour. Which means that, as an industry, we have to come together to discuss, debate and ultimately agree on our approach to ethical issues, traceability and transparency.

Has that gemstone been heat-treated, glass-filled or oiled? And do you know where exactly a diamond was mined, cut, polished and mounted?

if you are selling a product or service, you are at risk if you do not disclose material facts that are relevant to the sale. So doesn’t it make sense to know everything you can about the product you are selling?

For example, has that diamond been mined or made in a lab? Has that gemstone been heat-treated, glass-filled or oiled? And do you know where exactly a diamond was mined, cut, polished and mounted? These days, we know if a stick of asparagus is farmed in Peru and we can also find out whether our diamond was mined in Canada, Botswana or Angola. Knowing that Fairtrade gold supports artisanal miners is one thing but what about the other 66 per cent of metals that makes up the 9ct alloy?

The point is, to be corporately socially responsible, if you’ll excuse the jargon, we need to know the whole story.

Last but not least, there will be an update during IJL on the process taking place to unite N.A.G. and BJA and we’ll be following this up by consulting directly with members of both organisations through online surveys to get your views on our plans so far. The Board of Directors is acutely aware of the Association’s long history and we want to make sure that we do the right things for the future of the industry. So please do tell us what you think and help support a new unified industry trade association that is fit and able to serve its members for the 21st century and beyond.

Recently, bodies like CIBJO and the Responsible Jewellery Council have been working hard to agree and implement these frameworks and there will be sessions at IJL that will bring you up to date. Can I encourage you to find time to attend one or more of these events? The fact is that,

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

IJL partners with UKTI JL is to partner with UK Trade & Investment (UKTI) for this year's show at Olympia Grand (31st August – 2nd September).

UKTI’s role is to assist UK-based companies succeed within the global economy through its network of specialists around the world, and will provide exhibitors at the show with valuable export advice.

This new initiative will take the form of a UKTI Business Lounge where its International Trade Advisers will be on hand to give UK companies free guidance on growing their business internationally and ensuring their success in international markets. This will range from how to gain access to information to

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developing a successful export strategy and overcoming any barriers to entry or expansion.

One of the highlights of the partnership will be a Breakfast Briefing for exhibitors held on Monday 1st September 2014. This will take place within the Inspiration Theatre, where experts will be presenting an insight into the world of international exporting. The UKTI Business Lounge, on stand R140, will host a special Champagne reception on the stand for UK exhibitors and international visitors on Monday 1st September from 5.00 until 6.00.

Stephen McGowan, head of events, UK Trade & Investment, commented: “The UK Government and UK Trade & Investment

Swag Jeweller buys Burrells n a merging of two established family jewellery businesses, both N.A.G. members, Swag Jeweller has bought Burrells of Tunbridge Wells, a fine jewellery and watch retailer with a 45 year history. Burrells, situated in Royal Victoria Place, is the culmination of Richard Burrell’s 50 year career in the industry; one which saw him progress from an apprenticeship in Hatton Garden to opening a series of his own independent shops.

Edward Ferris, MD of Swag Jeweller, said: “We’d always admired Richard’s business; having our own experience of what it’s like to be a family-run jeweller we’re very aware of just how much love and hard work goes into it. When Richard revealed that he was ready to hand over the reins, I was determined to be the first in the queue.”

While Swag is eager to embrace the new business and imbue Burrells with its own passions, Ferris was keen to affirm that the Burrells shop will retain its name, staff and overall character.

Richard Burrell said of the purchase: “I can’t think of anyone to whom I’d rather sell. Familyrun businesses should be cherished and preserved, and Swag is well-placed to understand how ours runs.”

He added: “I’m looking forward to watching the shop flourish with the new owners – and to enjoying my well-earned retirement!”

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8 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

are committed to supporting international growth; promoting British products to businesses around the world. The UK retail industry is a significant contributor to the UK economy, employing more than three million people and generating £300bn for the economy.

“We know that our designers and creators of products are increasingly sought by international buyers for their creativity and originality, and above all the world-class quality and craftsmanship. Furthermore we know that UK luxury brands are not only highly sought-after internationally, they are a valuable asset to the UK. UKTI actively supports those events that showcase great British products and so we are delighted to be working in partnership with Reed Exhibitions at IJL.”

London Gold Fix ‘modernised’ ollowing the announcement that the daily Silver Price Fix would cease on Thursday 14th August 2014 (resulting from the withdrawal of Deutsche Bank from the Panel) the World Gold Council (WGC) held a meeting on Monday 7th July to allay concerns for the future of the daily Gold Fix. During the meeting the current system was reviewed and discussed. The National Association of Goldsmiths’ CEO Michael Rawlinson attended the meeting to represent the interests of the jewellery sector.

While there is no threat to the Daily Gold Fix at present, the WGC will issue a policy paper in the near future that will set out the key issues and start to move towards finding a long-term solution – a reforming or rebuilding of the near century-old, twicedaily auction process. The move, according to an FT article, follows increased regulatory scrutiny of the fix, as well as criticsm that it is ‘opaque and old-fashioned’.

The Association will continue to be involved in future discussions and ensure the views of the jewellery industry are heard and its interests are protected. The London Bullion Market Association has been working to make certain that arrangements have been put in place, to ensure the continuity of the daily fix that is used extensively in the trade within contractual and trading arrangements.

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Industry News |

New venue, new draws to be revealed at IJL JL’s choice of Olympia Grand for the show has allowed the introduction of a host of new highlights and features, all of which, says Reed Exhibitions, are designed to create “a glamorous and inspirational environment in which to do business”. These range from the first-ever Late Night Shopping Evening with a special charity auction in aid of Breast Cancer Care and the inspirational eveningwear ‘Red Carpet’ catwalk show featuring the latest trends, to the new Champagne Bar (sponsored by Endless Jewelry), the English Tea Room on the Upper Level and the specially-built restaurant on the ground floor.

The show will also welcome a great number of new exhibitors for 2014. Among them will be London-based Augustine Jewels (pictured) which will be showcasing its new Christmas Cuff Collection (stand P79). This will include an 18ct gold cuff with an emerald-cut citrine stone and two natural round brilliant-cut garnets. A silver cuff will feature green peridot and rubies and other collection being shown include stone-set cufflinks and gold and silver day wear pieces. Also new this year is Pointtec UK (G28), which will be revealing the new collections from iconic watch brands Junkers and Zeppelin (as well as the Quinn jewellery line).

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Jaguar offers customers Bremont watches ritish watch company Bremont is partnering with Jaguar to give one of a series of six unique wristwatches to customers of the six new Lightweight E-types to be built by Jaguar Heritage.

“The Lightweight E-type project is so special that we thought we really needed to create something which complemented the cars and, since most classic enthusiasts also tend to be horophiles, a wristwatch seemed to be the answer,” says Jaguar’s director of design, Ian Callum.

“Bremont was the obvious choice as a partner, both because we have worked closely together in the past on the clocks for the C-X75 and XJ75 Platinum concept cars and because, like Jaguar, it is a quintessentially British brand. We didn’t want a watch that was too obvious in terms of design, but something which captured the spirit of the Lightweight in a subtle yet relevant way and I think Bremont has certainly achieved that goal.”

The bespoke chronometers will complement the six new Lightweight E-types being built

by Jaguar Heritage to finalise the original 1963 production run. The watch features a a black dial based on Lightweight E-type RPM gauge; a chamfered hour and minute hands replicate the instrument’s tachometer needle and the chassis number of the matching Lightweight E-type is printed at the six o’clock position. Each watch carries engine number of the car it is paired with. Bremont was given access to the Jaguar archives in order, for example, to ascertain the exact font for the numerals used on the dial of the original rev counters.

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S N I P P E T S Carat* expands in Asia The luxury fashion jewellery company Carat* that works with precious metals and created stones, is continuing its expansion in Asia with the opening of several outlets, bringing the total store count in the region to 19. The most recent store, in the Hong Kong shopping mall Times Square, will be followed by further HK stores, as well as outlets in China and Bangkok. The brand now has over 30 boutiques in cities around the world and over 200 stockists in the UK. New appointments at Zeon Simon Gilham, previously sales director, has been appointed managing director of UK-based watch and clock manufacturer and distributor Zeon Ltd. Gilham joined the company in 1999 and was instrumental in the integration of licensed gift company Wesco Limited when it was acquired by Zeon in 2010. The company has also appointed Esther Jolley, who has a strong background in licensing and business development, to fill the newlycreated role of general manager.

Andy Murray stars in Rado ad Scottish tennis player Andy Murray is the star of the new print advertising campaign for his official watch partner, Rado. A global ambassador for the Swiss brand since May 2012, in each shot, Murray is wearing his Rado HyperChrome Automatic Chronograph from the Court Collection.

Kirsten Goss launches fine jewellery ondon-based South African jeweller Kirsten Goss has launched her first collection of fine jewellery. The Diamond Condition line features rings in 18ct gold set with GHI diamonds.

The range includes four designs including a ‘signet’ style which can be stamped with any letter.

The rings have also been designed so that they can be stacked up.

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The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

F. Hinds achieves RJC recertification he Responsible Jewellery Council reported on 13th August that F. Hinds has achieved recertication. Commenting on the announcement the RJC’s interim CEO Catherine Sproule said: “RJC congratulates F. Hinds on achieving recertification. After a Member has become certified for the first time, independent verification is required at the end of each certification period to ensure continued conformance and thereby maintain Certified Member status.”

“We are delighted to be among the first wave of companies to have achieved recertification by the RJC,” said Andrew Hinds, F. Hinds director and chairman of the National Association of Goldsmiths.. “This shows our customers, staff and suppliers that we have been independently verified and that we duly comply with RJC’s international standards on responsible business practices for diamonds and precious metals. It is important to note the RJC’s Code of Practices covers many crucial areas for consumer confidence in our industry, including human and labour rights, environmental impact and product disclosure.”

Also this summer Aurum Holdings (Goldsmiths, Mappin & Webb and Watches of Switzerland) achieved RJC recertification and BJA member Continental Jewellery gained certification.

Now in its ninth year, RJC has over 500 members, 360-plus of which are certified.

There were other reasons for F. Hinds to celebrate this month, as it was announced winner in the London and South East category at the Family Business Awards 2014. Paul Andrews, MD of Family Business United and panel of judges chairman said: “F. Hinds is an exceptional family firm… the judges were impressed with the heritage and passion that filters through into all that they do, and obviously has F. Hinds staff at the Family Business Awards 2014 done since they were founded back in 1856. A fascinating journey of a family succeeding in business for generations, where family values are important and where the next generation is already actively involved in the business too.”

The retailer also won the ‘Catalogue Of The Year’ award at the European Catalogue and Mail Order Days Ceremony last month, presented by Sky News anchor Dermot Murnaghan in recognition of the creativity, design flair and high production values displayed in F. Hinds’ Christmas 2013 brochure.

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F. Hinds to unveil ‘High Street

By Design’ winners at IJL uring IJL F. Hinds and guests will be celebrating the five winners of the 2014 High Street

By Design competition that the national retailer holds annually in conjunction with the trade show. The competition is open to design students, established designers and members of the general public in three age categories, who are invited to produce jewellery concepts through to production.

On view at the show will be the winning pieces by: Ella Miles (aged 11) from Paignton, Devon; Noi McMillan (18) from Girvan in Scotland; Marina Shavyrina-Shkolyar from Khmelnitsky, Ukraine; Shah Yesha Samirbhani, a student jewellery designer from Ahmedabad, India, and practicing jewellery designer Winnie Lestari from Surabaya, East Java.

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10 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

S N I P P E T S Jack Row launches new range in Burlington Arcade Award-winning British designer Jack Row has launched his latest collection of luxury writing instruments and cufflinks at leading pen specialist Penfriend in London’s Burlington Arcade. Hand crafted in England from solid sterling silver, each ‘Mirage’ pen is entwined with around 65 feet of hand-twisted sterling silver wire – the traditional goldsmithing technique creates a pattern that is unique to each piece. The hallmarked pens have been finished in classic silver, rose gold, yellow gold or black-antiqued.

Citizen celebrates Red Arrows’ anniversary Marking the Red Arrows’ 50th display season, watch brand Citizen has produced a Limited Edition Chrono Time A.T Red Arrows watch model. This timepiece is presented in packaging inspired by the Royal Air Force Red Arrows pilot’s helmet with a bespoke Aspinal wallet. This model is Limited to 1,000 pieces, with each watch and helmet individually numbered. Citizen has also supported the Air Force at the RAF Airshows, taking place throughout the summer across the UK. Ancient cameo / intaglio ring collection for sale ‘The Ceres Collection’: an important collection of 101 engraved cameo and intaglio rings that range in date from as early as the 4th Century BC, will be offered for sale at Bonhams, New Bond Street, in the Fine Jewellery sale on 17th September. The Collection as a whole is worth an estimated £100,000 and is to be sold without reserve. The engraved gems depict in miniature a broad range of subjects, from gods and goddesses and Greek and Roman mythological scenes, to portraits of historical figures.

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| Industry News

SevenFriday supports UK autism charity he newly-established Swiss watch brand SevenFriday is partnering Prior’s Court, a specialist autism charity, by offering for sale a limited edition watch. All of the profits (except the VAT element) will be going directly to the charity, which supports young people who are severely affected by their autism.

Daniel Niederer, founder of SevenFriday, explained: “We closely work with our distribution partners and friends all around the world to identify the right organisations or projects to support.

In the US, we started to help a foundation related to autism. So when our local partner for the UK, Mark Sutcliffe, brought Prior’s Court to our attention, we decided to follow that path there too.” Sutcliffe’s daughter, Jenny, has attended Prior’s Court School for 14 years, since the age of seven. He said: “In this time Jenny has made tremendous progress from an anxious, disturbed little girl unable to understand or communicate with the world, to a confident happy young adult.”

There will be just 100 pieces of the watch made. It is based on one of the most iconic pieces, the P3, which is a contrasted black and grey watch with touches of red. It can be purchased from Prior’s Court School, MDS Consulting and SevenFriday retailers in the UK.

S N I P P E T S Scottish Golf Day successes

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Agatha Christie’s diamonds for sale idden treasure from the home of the British murdermystery author, Agatha Christie, comes to light at the Bonhams, Knightsbridge, jewellery auction on 8th October.

When an Agatha Christie fan took part in the 2006 house contents sale of the Christie’s Greenway estate on the banks of the Dart estuary in Devon, she paid £100 for an old travelling trunk which had belonged to Agatha Christie’s mother. She had no idea that locked inside lay £10,000 worth of the Christie family jewels. Inside the travelling trunk was a locked strongbox but the key was long lost. Years passed and the box remained sealed. It wasn’t until four years later that the owner of the suitcase was having building work done and saw the opportunity to wrench open the box with a crowbar. Inside she discovered a purse of gold coins, a diamond brooch and a three-stone diamond ring.

The 19th-century diamond brooch is estimated/priced at £6,000-8,000 and the diamond three-stone ring at £3,000-5,000.

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Jesper Nielsen Endless Jewelry gets financial backing ndless Jewelry, a new fashion jewellery collection, has received financial backing from a group of investors including Lars Seier Christensen, co-founder and CEO of Saxo Bank.

Endless Jewelry was created in 2013 by Jesper Nielsen, a Danish entrepreneur and former CEO of KasiGroup, a reseller of PANDORA jewellery.

Christensen joins a small group of new investors in the company which focusses on the design and distribution of a collection of affordable, high-quality leather bracelets and charms and aims to be one of the fastest growing jewellery brands in the world.

With 23.55 per cent of the ownership, Christensen and the new group of investors are an important part of the new ownership structure of the company, although the Nielsen family remains majority shareholders with Jesper Nielsen as CEO.

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12 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

The Scottish Jewellers Golf Day, which was held in June at Prestwick Saint Nicholas Golf Club, saw Alisdair Parker of Just Brothers walk away with the Lawsons Challenge Trophy. The runners-up were Malcolm Jopson of Jopsons Carlisle and David Gauld of Gems Dumfries, then Alan Cunningham in fourth place. The prizes for the day were sponsored by T.H. March and the event is organised by Gauld, who is captain of the Scottish team in the N.A.G.’s Four Nations International.

Goldsmiths’ Fair names curator’s ‘choices’ With one month to go to Goldsmiths’ Fair (22nd September – 5th October), organisers have revealed the names of Zaha Hadid’s favourite pieces of jewellery and silver. The internationally-renowned architect is guest curator of a showcase of 21 personal highlights from this year’s Goldsmiths’ Fair, which features latest collections by 170 leading UK-based designer makers.

Among the chosen few are rings by Tom Rucker, Hannah Martin, Sarah Herriot, Jo McDonald, Jennifer Saker, Mara Irsara, Melanie Georgacopoulos and Jo Hayes Ward; earrings by Ute Decker and Beth Gilmour; brooches

by Heather Woof, Craig Stuart and Jane Macintosh; necklaces by Anna wales and Heather McDermott; bracelet by Tina Engell and cuff by William Cheshire.

Please visit us at stand

F60 31 AUG - 2 SEPT 2014 OLYMPIA LONDON w w w. j e w e l l e r y l o n d o n . c o m

Unique Jewelry Ltd. Tel: 020 7405 5523 sales@uniquejewelry.co.uk

www.myim e n s o . co m

Carmen Electra

Industry News |

Garrards creates Invictus medals

S N I P P E T S New Chisholm Hunter store

arrard, founded in 1735, is to donate the Invictus Games medals and medallions for the forthcoming Invictus Games to be held at Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park on September 10th – 14th 2014. Over 400 participants from 14 countries will receive an official medallion to commemorate the five day event, which was launched by Prince Harry.

Every winner will win a gold, silver or bronze medallion. Based on a concept from Harry Parker, who was severely injured in Afghanistan, Garrard designed and crafted the medals and medallions to embody the philosophy behind the Invictus Games. An embossed pattern, reminiscent of stitching, represents the recovery and rehabilitation of the wounded, injured or sick Service personnel participating in the Games.

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Diamond in the sky is unclaimed n what must be an industry first, on-line jewellery retailer 77 Diamonds has launched a diamond worth £12,000 into space. It has since landed within a five mile radius of the village of Lea near Gainsborough, Lincolnshire, and (as we go to press) has yet to be found – whoever finds the diamond will be able to keep it.

In a secret suburban location, 77 Diamonds, in trust with the UK Civil Aviation Authorities (CAA), launched the high-value diamond into space. Mounted on a steel rod frame attached to a helium balloon, it rose above the earth until the atmospheric pressure at the edge of space caused the balloon to burst. It was in the air for over 150 minutes, and travelled around 60 miles.

The stunt is to promote the jewellery retailer’s interactive universe, Diamonds in the Sky, which invites users to populate a virtual night sky with thousands of stars – each one unique and named after someone or something special.

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Southwark wins Touchstone Award

Diamond merchant and jeweller Chisholm Hunter has launched its latest new store in the iconic Argyll Arcade in Glasgow, bringing its total store count to 23.

The Glasgow-based company, has created 10 new jobs by investing in the former Watches of Switzerland store. It is also a flagship store for its pre-owned watch range – a selection of luxury and vintage timepieces from brands such as Rolex, Cartier and Omega. Chisholm Hunter won Multiple Retailer of the Year for the third year running in to 2014 UK Watch & Jewellery Awards.

Thai arts arrive in London Knightsbridge-based interior designer Katharine Pooley has launched a collection of spectacular, one-of-a-kind jewellery from Lotus Arts de Vivre. The family business, founded in Thailand 30 years ago, is renowned worldwide for transforming natural materials, using traditional techniques, into precious creations. Shown here is the Scarab necklace which is made from scarab beetle shell, sterling silver and enhanced with diamonds.

he British Hallmarking Council and the four Assay Offices of the UK have announced the London Borough of Southwark as the winner of the Touchstone Award 2014. This is the third annual presentation of this prestigious award which recognises innovative initiative undertaken in relation to hallmarking legislation, and this year’s applications demonstrated a wide range of different approaches.

Southwark’s operation was prompted by a complaint from a member of the public. An efficient response and a thorough investigation revealed a major fraudulent trading exercise, resulting in more than 1,300 items of jewellery being seized. Many were marked 925, but the Assay Office confirmed that the items were not silver. Further investigations revealed Hallmarking and Trade Mark offences, including counterfeit hallmarks.

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The Voice of the Industry 15

| International News

Swatch reports continued growth he half-yearly report for 2014 released by the Swatch Group last month has revealed that the Group’s gross sales were up by 8.5 per cent, despite significant negative currency impact. In the watches and jewellery segment (including production), Swatch Group recorded gross sales growth of 8.8 per cent at constant rates and 4.3 per cent at current rates compared to the previous year. This growth was generated by the Group’s strong brands and broad distribution network. The company’s operating profit is CHF 830 million.

The fire at ETA on 29th December 2013 caused a significant strain on Group production.

Although the fire was quickly brought under control, extensive damage and an interruption of business occurred in the electroplating department and the downstream watch movement production. Non-deliveries and delivery delays resulting from the fire negatively impacted gross sales by approximately CHF 200 million. In the meantime, production at ETA has been reorganised so that only minor delays in watch movement production are anticipated in the second half of 2014.

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Kalevala Jewelry UK launch alevala Jewelry of Finland, one of the largest jewellery makers in northern Europe, a sister brand of Lapponia Jewelry, is bringing its collection of quality gold, silver and bronze jewellery to the UK. Established in 1937, the company is owned by the 4,000 members of the Finnish Kalevala Women’s Association, which has CSR at its heart. Up to 700,000 units are produced at the Kelavala production facility annually.

Kalevala has two strikingly different lines: modern Scandinavian, which is suited to design-oriented shops, and a more classic collection which takes its inspiration from Finnish history. Common to all Kalevala’s jewellery is a strong narrative. Six different, named designers have contributed to the 2014 collection, each bringing their own hand-writing and inspirations. The line will be handled in the UK by Charles Vickers, UK sales agent for Lapponia, and now Kalevala.

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Hermes launches equestrian watch line ontres Hermes has launched Arceau d’Orient, a limited edition collection of timepieces inspired

by Eastern motifs and colours, and incorporating the art of French lacquer. Normally applied to wood or bamboo, the traditional techniques for this painstaking work had to be revisited as the lacquer was in this case applied to a metal base.

With three days’ drying time required between each layer of lacquer, the fine work is completed in stages, the eventual result taking tens of layers of colour and varnish and very many weeks. The dial is then assembled in a white gold Arceau model and driven by a Manufacture Hermès H1837 calibre. The strap is in black alligator with a white gold buckle.

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S N I P P E T S Rare museum-quality rings for sale in New York gallery One of the rarest ancient Roman diamond rings, a Renaissance diamond and ruby gimmel ring which was once owned by the Rothschilds, and a tour-de-force 10th-century sapphire ring engraved in Arabic, are just a few of the 40 museumquality gold and diamond, ruby, sapphire studded pieces on view and for sale beginning 31st October as part of a New York exhibition, ‘Cycles of Life: Rings from the Benjamin Zucker Family Collection’. Les Eluminaires will run the sale until 6th December, 2014.

Diary date announced for 2015 CIBJO Conference CIBJO, the World Jewellery Confederation, will hold its 2015 annual congress in Salvador, Brazil, 4th – 6th May, 2015, with pre-congress meetings on 2nd and 3rd May. Salvador is the capital of the north-eastern Brazilian state of Bahia.

The congress will be hosted by Instituto Brasileiro de Gemas e Metais Preciosos, working in close cooperation with the local jewellery association in Bahia and with the support of the State Governor Jaques Wagner and his administration.

World Diamond Council seeks new executive director The World Diamond Council has initiated an international search for an Executive Director to head the organisation, under the authority of the WDC President and Executive Committee. It will be the first time that the industry organisation dedicated to the elimination of the trade in conflict diamonds will be headed by a salaried administrator. To fill the role, the Council has invited the tender of applications from individuals with a minimum of 10–15 years’ experience in an administrative capacity, of which at least five years has been in a senior management position.

| N.A.G. News

Association offers Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council award he N.A.G. has offered to present a prize at next year’s Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council Awards. The new National Association of Goldsmiths’ Award will be presented to the maker of a jewellery piece or collection that displays commercial viability as well as creativity. All entries will be considered and appropriately recommended by judges from relevant sections in the competition and the final decision on this award will be made by a judging panel of industry experts. The winner will receive a £1,000 cash prize and a full page advertisement in the The Jeweller.

The Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council (GCDC) is a flagship organisation for the industry; it promotes skills and excellence across every aspect and activity in the profession. It does this through the annual competition that is open to everyone practicing in the UK, and all work is judged by experts in the profession. Bench mark standards have to be met to win an award and the Council’s original remit remains its primary aim – to promote and enhance excellence in craftsmanship and design.

With a high profile and valuable service to the industry, the Council attracts sponsorship from companies, individuals and organisations, including The Goldsmiths’ Company and Cartier. The competition encourages designer makers, students, companies and self-taught individuals to pitch their talent and extend individual skills in design and making, both hand, production and technological.

The competition is unrivalled in its status, breadth of subject areas and the diverse range

The Honeycomb Collection by Adam McLaren, Gold Award winner in GCDC Awards 2014.

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of designers and makers that are attracted to enter the annual craftsmanship and design awards – over 700 entries are submitted each year. The competition culminates in a prestigious awards evening at Goldsmiths’ Hall followed by a public exhibition of awardwinning pieces and selected entries.

Commenting on the Association’s offer of sponsorship, Brian Hill, consultant secretary of the GCDC commented: “The N.A.G. has supported these unique industry-focussed awards for many years and we are delighted that the chief executive, Michael Rawlinson, has raised the level of the Association’s sponsorship to be Patrons of the Goldsmiths’ Craft & Design Council. This new and exciting Patron Special Award seeks to identify, reward and promote creative and distinctive jewellery, which at the same time has the

Associations’ unification plans progress he plans to unify the National Association of Goldsmiths with the British Jewellers’ Association continue to make progress. The working party – consisting of the officers from both organisations – has begun to meet monthly in order to move forward and will be tackling the various practical streams

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including: governance, strategic direction and organisation objectives, the business plan, structures, finance, membership, education, marketing, etc.

The group intends to reach out to the members of both organisations in order to solicit views and feedback, through regular

potential to be commercially viable. This is a positive and significant development within the competition and Michael will be presenting the N.A.G. Special Award at the prestigious GCDC awards evening on 2nd March 2015 at Goldsmiths’ Hall.”

The competition will be formally launched at IJL, with hard copy material available for would-be entrants. However, all applicants will need to visit the GCDC website: www.craftanddesigncouncil.org.uk to complete the application process. Initial online submissions must be presented by 9th January, 2015; the judging will take place between 20th January and 12th February. Following the Awards Evening, the public exhibition will be held 3rd – 6th March in the Exhibition Room, Goldsmiths’ Hall.

surveys and occasional clinics. If you have any comments or queries on the subject please send an email to us at: unification@jewellers-online.org The unification plans were formally revealed by the Association’s CEO Michael Rawlinson to members of the N.A.G. and their guests during the Association’s AGM, which was held at Jewellery & Watch London, at the Saatchi Gallery in June.

N.A.G. News |

N.A.G. sponsors IJL Advice Clinics his year sees a new business support initiative by International Jewellery London, in the form of a series of Advice Clinics, which have been sponsored by the Association. For the duration of the fair (31st August – 2nd September, 2014) industry experts, across various fields, will be on hand to offer free advice to retailers on a one-to-one basis.

The advisors are: Michael Donaldson, pension specialist from Work Place Pension Debbie Barrow of Virada Training, one of the Bureau; Christine Colbert, brand expert from advisors at IJL’s Advice Clinics which are being House Creative; Debbie Barrow, retail sponsored by the N.A.G. sales training expert from Virada Training; Richard Pope, pension specialist from Work Place Pension Bureau; Hilaire O’Shea, retail security specialist from SPC Support UK Ltd and Paul Andrews, an expert in family succession planning from Family Business United.

A checklist to action will be provided as a take away for those taking advantage of each advisor, ensuring that their business becomes even more profitable and successful. The Advice Clinics will be situated on the upper level in the Solutions & Services area, with sessions running three to four times daily. For the timetable visit the IJL website: www.jewellery london.com/Whats_On/seminars/ #search=rpp%3D12%26d%3D100673|152_180365 The Association will be out in force at the show, so, if you would like to speak to anyone from the membership or education and training teams, please visit us on Stand K30.

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The N.A.G. appoints marketing agency he National Association of Goldsmiths has announced a new partnership with the House Creative marketing agency aimed at re-energising its recruitment drive and driving sign-up for its industry-leading JET education and training courses.

As a marketing specialist whose principals come with a wealth of multinational agency experience, House Creative has dedicated itself to the sector with an impressive roster of clients that features some of the industry’s leading lights.

House managing director Christine Colbert remarks: “We are very excited to be working with the N.A.G. at this very exciting time for the organisation and for the industry as a whole. We will be joining the Association with our own presence at IJL, having launched our dedicated jewellery division at the NEC in February.”

Speaking of the appointment, N.A.G. CEO Michael Rawlinson commented: “The Association has an amazing membership and education proposition, but unless the trade understands this, we are not doing our job. The time has come to spread the word clearly and proudly. Christine and her team already have a number of clients in our Christine Colbert of House sector – including Green & Benz, Wongs of Liverpool Creative, who will also be and Cooksons. I have every confidence they will do an available to be consulted at the forthcoming IJL Advice Clinics amazing job for us as well.

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New member applications To ensure that N.A.G. Members are aware of new applications for N.A.G. Membership within their locality, applicants’ names are published below. Members who wish to comment on any of these applications can call Catherine Mone on 020 7613 4445 or email her at: catherine@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Applications Promise Diamonds, London Jewel Vintage Ltd, Bournemouth Pure Brilliant, Glasgow Sarahann’s Jewellers Ltd, Harrogate Roberts Independent Jewellers Ltd, Hampshire John M. Reynolds Jewellery Ltd, London

Corporate Associate Applications Insafe International Ltd, Tunbridge Wells Funding Secure, Berkshire Workplace Pensions Bureau Ltd, Derby

Corporate Individual Applications Timothy R Carroll, Leicester (Associate) Emma McMillan, Edinburgh (Associate) Janice Cullen, West Sussex (Associate)

IRV applications New Member Applicants (all qualified in the Institute’s Certificate of Appraisal Theory examination and meet the other IRV membership pre-requisites) James H Firmin, Topset, Uppingham Nicola H Sawyer, The Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, Bath

Upgrading from Member to Fellow Gordon F R Bramwell PJDip PJGemDip PJValDip, Northern Valuations, Kendal Alistir Tait FGA, Alistir Tait Fine Jwlry, Edinburgh Robert White PJDip FGA DGA, Michael Jones Jwlr, Northampton

JEC reception he Jewellery Ethics Committee UK (JEC) will be holding a reception at the Goldsmiths’ Centre in London on 2nd October, in order to reach out to jewellery retailers and designer makers. The JEC is a joint venture between the N.A.G., the BJA and Gem-A, and is chaired by luxury ethical jeweller Vivien Johnston from Fifi Bijoux, with social activist and pioneer of Fairtrade gold, Greg Valerio as special advisor.

During the evening, which starts at 6pm, Johnston will present the findings to date on a Diamond Paper that she is writing and Valerio will discuss marketing initiatives for small jewellers. “We want people to hear from us what the Committee is doing and how they can get involved,” says Johnston. For more information email: vivien@jec-uk.com

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| N.A.G. News opportunity for your designated creative to learn how to put together exciting displays in your store windows. Judy Head, our talented tutor with many years’ marketing experience, describes how your customers respond to visual display and the time available to make an impact and get your product noticed. A combination of theory and practical hands-on sessions, creating eye-catching free displays, will build the knowledge and confidence to make your windows effective marketing and sales tools.

Diamonds and Diamond Grading

NAG Short Courses – Autumn 2014 Developing Sales Skills

Essential Display

One-day course London, 23rd September N.A.G. members £275 + VAT Responding to feedback from our members the N.A.G., together with Virada Training, is offering this one-day sales skills training course. It covers a variety of topics, and focusses on real life, everyday sales situations to unlock potential and help your business stand out from the crowd.

Topics covered: • Managing the customer interaction – engaging with your customer • Establishing customer needs – getting the complete picture • Presenting – the buying experience • Decision-making and feedback • Reassuring the customer – dealing with objections • Closing – acting on buying signals and leaving the customer with a good lasting impression

One-day course London, Wednesday 8th October N.A.G. members £235 + VAT Dressing the windows of your store is a daily task. Are you stuck for ideas? Our ever popular Essential Display course is the

20 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Two-day course London, Wednesday 1st and Thursday 2nd October N.A.G. members £402 + VAT This two-day seminar for jewellery retailers, taught by Eric Emms, the leading UK authority on diamond grading, will increase knowledge and understanding of diamonds, boost confidence and enhance attendees’ selling performance.

Topics covered: • How to gauge carat weight, judge colour and clarity grades of various diamond sizes and qualities • How the brightness, fire and scintillation of diamonds are affected by proportions, symmetry and other factors • How to identify and describe laser-drilled diamonds and fracturefilled diamonds • Examine and discuss the latest diamond treatments and gem quality synthetic diamonds • Discuss consumer confidence, ethics of the supply chain and certification of stones

Authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority (No. 306522)

| N.A.G. News

Member of the Month UK Watch & Jewellery Awards Independent Retailer of the Year 2014, Banks Lyon in Lancaster is clearly doing something right.

We spoke to owner Rodney Banks Lyon to discover what…

Congratulations on your award – what is it that makes Banks Lyon stand out from the crowd?

There’s rarely one factor that makes you stand out, but over the 29 years since we established the business, we’ve brought together all the major watch brands under one roof; we embraced the internet very early on and created a comprehensive website, which we believe compares well against the multi-national retailers. Advertising and engaging with our customers also helps us to punch above our weight. However all this would be useless without the investment in personnel; a good team, with good product knowledge, is everything.

How did you begin?

I stumbled into the trade in the early 1970s.

My father pushed me to get a job while I considered what to do with my life. I applied for and failed to get a junior sales post at H Samuels in Morecambe; however the manager later called me saying their preferred applicant had failed to show. If I was prepared to remove my beard then the job was mine.

The shaver came out.

Mr Holt the manager was an excellent trainer and I realised I enjoyed retail and the jewellery trade in particular; I rapidly climbed the ladder. In 1984 I was head-hunted by a Taunton jewellers who wished to open in Bristol. I had plans for my own business, but the opportunity to have a dry run of opening a store with someone else persuaded me to defer this. In October 1985 I opened in my hometown.

I selected Lancaster not simply because it was my home, but I genuinely believed there was an opportunity there. Few of my advisors agreed, but I went ahead anyway and have proved them wrong thankfully.

Who are the key players in the your business currently?

I can’t name just one person; we’re a team!

My general manager, Bob Breden, has had a major impact upon the business. He joined

22 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

in 2004 and brought a wealth of knowledge and experience; he’s now the star of ‘Bob’s blogs’ on YouTube, which has had over 200,000 views.

Samantha Ireland has been with me since 2001 – she’s been so reliable. One unsung hero is our bookkeeper David Pye – the back room team often go unacknowledged but are important to every business and David is vital.

through the door to buy, and not surf the internet for the very watches they starve the market of.

Are watches the most important part of your business?

Watches certainly make up the Lyon’s share of sales nowadays – thankfully so! We all acknowledge precious jewellery has, for these past few years, taken a back seat.

However I believe we’re seeing a return of interest in real jewellery. There are some beautiful brands emerging, which help this sector. The likes of Fope, Al Coro and Messika chip away at one’s own designs; however they won’t totally take over as any good retailer will know their own market, filling the gaps that the brands leave.

What services do you offer?

With my loyal and long-serving team we’ve a wealth of knowledge and experience to offer. We give customers time, advice and a comprehensive in-house service from basic watch batteries to CGI mock-ups of bespoke jewellery (a relatively new area for us). Insurance valuations can be timeconsuming, but we do all these in-house and I believe it’s a part of the whole service we must offer.

How have you noticed the trade change over the years?

A big question! Even in the last five years it has evolved at a frightening pace. High street jewellers at every level have never been so threatened. Grey market importers, secondhand e-tailers, diamond manufacturers going straight to the public… never before have traditional retailers been under such threat. What’s so frustrating is that, as we endeavour to adapt to the changing environment, we are constrained and controlled ever more by the brands that we’ve invested so heavily in.

Retailers are being squeezed harder from every side. Few brands appear to have any understanding of these pressures. Indeed one of the biggest watch brands seems to be in total denial of the internet, still believing that their customers must walk

When did your company first embrace social media?

We’ve always used it on some level. It’s been vital to adapt our strategies in accordance with web trends and standards; we’re constantly assessing and reinventing our approach. Social media – like Bob’s blogs – is an important part of this. Being in early has certainly been an advantage. To start from fresh today it would take two or three years to even begin to show results in this ever more competitive market.

Do you have an amusing customer anecdote to tell us?

We once had a lovely senior lady as a client – she spoke the Queen’s English… rather loudly. It was Christmas and I was showing her a long ‘guard chain’ which came down well below her waist. With a shop full of people she exclaimed: “Oh no, it’s much too long. It’s touching Toby”. Somewhat flustered, the only response I could think of was: “Well we certainly don’t want to touch Toby do we?”

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| N.A.G. News: IRV Review The speakers

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Loughborough – more than the world of valuing The N.A.G.’s 26th IRV Loughborough Conference is just a couple of weeks away (13th-15th September). Following the regular format of workshops, main presentations and discussion sessions, guest speakers are lined up to cover an array of valuing and jewellery industry-related subjects, as Sandra Page explains udging by the number of bookings received at the time of writing, we’re on course for another excellent attendance.

There are many regulars (how many silverstarred lapel badges will we have this year indicating those who have attended 25 or more Conferences?); a welcome number of first-timers, and many CAT students who are attending so that they can either collect their certificates after passing the exam last October or this May, as well as those who are preparing to sit the exam this October and are attending the CAT pre-exam tutorial run by CAT development manager Heather McPherson and CAT advisor Shirley Mitchell.

In addition to the delegates we’ll also have: • an amazing 33 guest speakers, • sponsors – AnchorCert, Fellows, Gem-A and T H March,

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exhibitors – Quantum Leap and Pursuit, our guests – we are delighted that Margaret Wilkins can attend again this year (she was unable to come last time) and will be presenting her late husband’s trophy, the David Wilkins Award, to this year’s winner after dinner on Saturday.

We know that many delegates not only look upon Loughborough as an opportunity to acquire new skills and knowledge, as well as to refresh what they already know, but it offers a rare occasion for them to get together with like-minded people to discuss matters that are important to them. Everyone has the chance to see one another in passing at trade fairs and the like, but, as this is a residential conference, they can actually sit down and talk for hours if they want to, without having to worry about catching the last train home!

The Association is extremely proud of the success of this event and very grateful for the support of those who attend. Main attractions at this year’s event include firsttime guest speakers: • Joanna Whalley who is senior metal conservator at the Victoria & Albert Museum, as well as a trustee of the Society of Jewellery Historians. She’s going to explain what metal conservators do and give an insight into ‘behind the scenes’ at the museum.

• Adrien von Ferscht who is an honorary research fellow at the University of Glasgow’s Scottish Centre for China Research and a fellow of the Asia Scotland Institute, Adrien’s presentation is on the history of Chinese export silver.

• Kym Hughes, president of the National Council of Jewellery Valuers in Australia.

She has a wealth of knowledge on Australian Argyle pink diamonds and will take a look at pricing trends, tenders, colour grading comparison and the importance of provenance.

• Tony Saggers, an expert witness since 1995 with experience of over 100 criminal and civil cases both nationally and internationally, who is now a qualified teacher/trainer on the subject, will explain how valuers and jewellers can become expert witnesses and what their responsibilities (and liabilities) would be.

• Richard Pope, with over 23 years in the financial services industry, talks about the Government’s new pension legislation and the implications this has on employers.

N.A.G. News: IRV Review | We are also delighted that regular guest speakers David Callaghan and Stephen Whittaker will be giving main presentations on the Saturday afternoon (they are both running workshops too). David’s talk will take a look at one of our industry’s most important gemmologists, Basil Anderson, who was behind the setting up of the world famous London Chamber of Commerce Diamond, Pearl and Stone Laboratory.

Stephen will give a round-up of some of the more surprising and unlikely stories from the auction world over the last couple of years.

The workshops And then we have the workshops – ‘lessons for delegates’! This year we have 22 on offer from guest speakers Peter Buckie and Barbara Leal, David Callaghan, Steve Carson, Rosamond Clayton, Nicola Cohen, Michael Donaldson, David Fromming and Louise Butterworth, Kerry Gregory, Michael Inkpen, Heather McPherson and Shirley Mitchell, Claire Mitchell and Paveet Amrit, Vanessa Paterson,

as exhibitors Quantum Leap and Pursuit.

See below for details of the great offers for delegates from our sponsors.

The weekend also includes, as mentioned earlier, the presentation of the David Wilkins Award to this year’s winner as well as an informal presentation of certificates to those MIRVs who became FIRVs since last year’s Conference and to those individuals who passed the CAT (Certificate of Appraisal Theory) examinations which took place last October and May this year.

Conference sponsorship

Graham Price, James Riley and Charles Evans, Chris Simpson and Paula Grenney, Barry Sullivan and Andreé Richardson, Rebecca Tucker and Chris Sellors, John Watson, Stephen Whittaker and Jason Williams. They will be covering topics including pricing, gemstones, being an expert witness, insurance, testing, photography, watches, branding, valuation practice, antique jewellery, silver, auctions and computer software.

We are delighted that AnchorCert, Fellows, the Gem-A and T H March have agreed to sponsor this year’s Conference.

During the Conference we shall be holding a draw and we’re pleased that both AnchorCert and Gem-A have agreed to offer places on their short courses as prizes.

Gem-A has also generously agreed to give a prize of £500 to spend on instruments and/or books available through Gemmological Instruments Ltd to one lucky CAT student.

Back in 2009 the Institute was approached

by Stephen Whittaker of Fellows Auctioneers with the offer to sponsor a place at the Conference for the candidate who received the top marks in the N.A.G.’s JET2 examinations, which took place in the 12 months prior to the Conference. Conscious of how important it is to encourage young people in our trade to continue to expand their knowledge, we were delighted to accept this generous offer and we’re happy to say that Fellows has continued this sponsorship each year since then. In the last six years six individuals have been able to accept this sponsorship and benefit from all that the Loughborough Conference offers.

So (appetite whetted I hope), if you haven’t already sent in your booking form, there’s still time. Visit www.jewelleryvaluers.org and the ‘Loughborough Conference’ page to download the brochure and booking form.

But don’t leave it to the last minute as the last day to book is 3rd September – 10 days before the Conference takes place.

Other attractions And while you’re with us you can meet up with sponsors AnchorCert, the Gem-A, Fellows and T H March & Co Ltd, as well

The Voice of the Industry 25

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N.A.G. News: Education & Training |

So much to do…

It’s been a busy year so far for the team in the Education Department – and it’s not over yet, as Kate Madelin explains. o start, we have moved from offering JET2 as an exam-based course to a programme of continuous assessment and we had the first of the final projects submitted to us at the end of June. As a rule we have around 90 students for each exam sitting, but this time we had over 100 students send in their assignments to us for this date…. and this is just the first tranche.

However, the quality of the projects being submitted has been astounding. With the permission of the students involved, we would like to find a way of sharing them with you all in the future.

With most current JET2 students opting for the new assignments, we had just three students sit the JET2 exam in May.

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We are now preparing to meet you all at IJL at the end of August. Please do come and talk to us about your training needs. If you don’t think that we offer what you require, talk it through with us at the show or give us a call. I am confident that we can help.

Did you send your staff on JET1 sometime ago? Is it time that you gave these valued employees the opportunity to move on to JET2? Don’t forget that your business will always benefit from having a team that is completely equipped to deal with your customers’ every need. Perhaps you feel that your staff simply need a refresher?

We are considering putting together a JET refresher course. Let us know if this would suit your requirements?

We are aiming to adopt a more flexible approach to our course delivery. Did you know that you can do the modules of JET Business Development (formally JET Pro) separately? For instance, you could just choose to study the module ‘Maximising your Team Potential’. This will help you employ the right people, measure their performance, communicate with all staff and also manage upwards.

At the show, we will also have the wonderful GemBasics course materials to show you. This is an online gemmology course that is provided by Gem-A, the Gemmological Association of Great Britain.

Come to Association’s stand (K30), meet the Education team and talk through the training choices available to you and your staff. I will be there every day and will be joined by my colleagues Malcolm Jones, Mandy Kelly and Lyn Oliver over the course of the show.

See you there!

Bransom Award winner June 2014 Congratulations to June’s Bransom Award winner, Peter Sandles of F.Hinds in the Merry Hill Centre, Dudley. We quizzed him on how he found the course.

How long have you been in the jewellery business and what made you choose it?

I was offered a temporary position at F.Hinds over the 2010 Christmas period – my first role within the jewellery sector. I initially chose this industry as I thought it would provide the sort of environment I could work well in. I’d like to think this was the case as I was successful in securing another seasonal opening at F.Hinds before being welcomed back for a third time when a permanent position arose, just over a year ago. Being surrounded by luxury products, a variety of brands and great colleagues makes me want to continue.

How does it feel to win the Award?

I was told I’d won the first afternoon I was back at work after being on holiday – the best return to work I’ve ever had! My elation was extended over the next few days when I got to tell other colleagues.

What did you enjoy about the course?

Previously I’d learnt mostly from others at work. As I worked through the course I found my confidence developed significantly, and I improved my knowledge of gemstones. On the advice of my tutor I took the opportunity to supplement the source material with information from others within the industry

The Bransom Award In July 2010 the N.A.G. launched an award with the aim of recognising the very best JET1 projects. Course tutors put forward nominations before the winner is chosen by our chief moderator. The individual who is awarded the highest assignment mark is rewarded with a trip to the historic and prestigious Goldsmiths’ Hall in London for the presentation of their certificate at our annual award ceremony. The award, which is sponsored by Bransom Retail Systems, is made on a monthly basis.

and work colleagues, helping me to gain a thorough understanding of many topics.

I had the opportunity to reflect on what I’d studied and then apply it to real situations in contact with more customers. This has made me more effective in my current position and has made my job more fulfilling. On this alone I would recommend the course to others. It opens up new opportunities and will undoubtedly support me in any position I have in the industry in the future.

Peter’s tutor stated: “All his assignments were of exceptionally high standard. He researched fully and provided detailed answers. I was impressed with his attitude and approach to his final assignment. That he is not often involved in diamond sales didn’t disadvantage him when explaining how he would answer a customer’s questions about the 4Cs – it just meant that he had to work harder!

He compiled questionnaires for his colleagues who are diamond advisors and then provided a first class answer in his own words.”

The Voice of the Industry 27

| Business Support: Security

SaferGems update It hardly needs to be underlined that security remains one of the most important issues for anyone working in the jewellery industry. Should you need to be convinced however, Lee Henderson at SaferGems has the facts and figures to help make the point. he jewellery/pawnbroker industry remains a valuable commodity for criminals – 65 robberies, 155 thefts, 50 burglaries and 60 frauds have been recorded by SaferGems to date this year. To put things further into perspective, approximately £10 million worth of goods have been stolen from the industry.

Between May and July the initiative’s team recorded 28 robberies and smash and grab raids at stores across the UK, almost half of which have occurred in the South East region and nearly all involved weapons, some of which were firearms. Watches are still the most sought after items with around

T

£3 million worth of timepieces having been stolen during May to July alone.

All of which highlights the necessity for effective security measures and we remind you particularly of the importance of CCTV. This can be used to deter criminals as well as to record crime if it happens. It is an extremely useful and powerful tool for the police and has assisted in the prevention and detection of many crimes. Look at the home office leaflet for advice – it’s not too long a read and very helpful: www.gov.uk/government/publications/ cctv-supporting-small-businesses

The rising cost of PDF fraud PDQ fraud continues to raise its ugly head, with a spike of reports during July.

Information received from a PDQ supplier states that any numbers can be used as an authorisation code to force failed transactions through.

Jewellery retailers are advised to ensure that they take full control of the PDQ machine as soon as the PIN number has been entered.

If it has a ‘refer to issuer’ message on it, the retailer needs to follow his or her procedures and contact their own authorisation centre, who in turn will contact the bank.

The retailer should not accept any incoming call from banks during the above procedure.

SaferGems continues to interact and liaise with banks and PDQ suppliers to ensure that members are fully aware and up-to-date on any new scams. The SaferGems team is also due to meet with the Barclaycard Fraud team in October prior to the Security Conference. Watch this space!

National Association of Goldsmiths’ Security Conference 2014 On 21st October the Association, together with TH March, will host a day-long conference (sponsored by Fog Bandit) covering all aspects of crime facing the industry – the smaller, independent retailer in particular.

As well as talks by experts (as outlined in last month’s issue of The Jeweller) security companies such as Insafe, Selectamark and Warrior Doors will be on-hand to discuss their products.

Insafe is the oldest and largest British-owned safe company. Over the years it has acquired various safe companies, each with relevant specialist qualities, so it can provide valuable training, service and products. Office, warehouse and factory staff, safe engineers and master locksmiths are given comprehensive training and support and have achieved the ISO9001 standard for commitment and care to customers – and that includes the very specialised delivery and installation.

Every safe manufactured and supplied

by Insafe undergoes extremely rigorous testing set by independent testing houses.

Every safe has also gained guaranteed insurance approval, as they are all recognised

28 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

in Britain by the highly-esteemed Association of Insurance Surveyors.

Warrior Doors designs, manufactures and installs a range of doors that combine style with precision engineering, to offer the ultimate high-security entrance for jewellers.

There’s a bespoke solution for every project.

The wide range of modular designs can incorporate a combination of panels including ballistic glass, solid and louvre stainless steel panels, tested up to LPS1175 SR4 and ballistic resistance EN1522/1523 threat level FB4.

The company has installed doors that have thwarted armed robbers and protected people and property at jewellers during the Birmingham riots in 2011. In addition it makes secure clear-vision display cases for high value exhibits for jewellers, galleries and museums.

Selectamark Security Systems will present SelectaDNA Intruder Spray which utilises DNA spray technology to link attackers to the scene of a crime. It works by emitting a burst of forensic DNA solution when an intruder forces entry to a premises, marking them with an invisible and harmless spray

SelectaDNA Intruder Spray

that stays on the skin and clothing for up to three weeks and provides vital legal evidence.

The spray can be integrated into an existing shop alarm system or run stand-alone with its own panic button. Warning signs and window stickers are proving to be effective deterrents, dissuading potential criminals from targeting the protected premises.

Simon Cham, Crime Prevention officer of the Metropolitan Police Flying Squad, will be offering invaluable crime prevention advice on the day. Paul Johnson of the Metropolitan Police will also be giving fraud prevention advice.

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The Voice of the Industry 29

| Business Support: Association Benefits

The benefits of association: our new Insurance Replacement Scheme Robert Eden explains the key benefits of the Association’s new Insurance Replacement Scheme, gives us his reasons why the scheme offers genuine business benefits to Association jewellers, and answers some of the questions that our members have asked… n my travels around the country listening to members, one of the major areas of concern is that of insurance replacement, issues with companies offering it and the discount levels required to participate.

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With your interests at heart As your trade association with your interests at heart, the solution we’ve come up with is designed to offer something that’s fairer for all concerned. That’s why July saw the launch of the Association’s new Insurance Replacement Scheme (IRS). We have worked hard with our partner to secure this new income stream for our members and it is exclusively for companies that have not opted out.

We have heard it said that this has been tried before or that levels of commission are too onerous. But remember what it’s like on a wintry Wednesday when it’s pouring with rain and the only business you have done is a watch battery or strap. Would you not welcome a customer who walks into your store with a mandate and IRS card with £1,500 on it? It might just make your week, month or year; it might bring you a new customer who has never shopped with you before and that one customer might bring in their partner, kids, mother, father, cousin, brother or sister-in-law, their best friends and social media contacts. They may just need a repair, a watchstrap, an engagement ring, a tennis bracelet, some bridesmaid’s gifts or a valuation for insurance.

An invaluable contact Don’t forget that the Association can put you in direct contact with the Institute of Registered Valuers which can be indispensible as many insurance companies are only accepting valuations carried out by members of the IRV.

32 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Insuring your customers, ensuring your business I am personally very excited about the scheme as it offers consumers the choice of where to shop and, most importantly, in return for an Association admin fee of three per cent and a 20 per cent commission to the insurance company, helps to ensure the future of your business by providing you with a whole new income stream.

As many as 80 per cent of the members I have visited have told me that insurance replacement is something that affects them and this new scheme represents our response to our members’ requests for us, as your Association, to act.

The scheme has been widely accepted and I am genuinely pleased by the way the scheme has been welcomed by retailers.

The first claims should reach the Association by mid to late August and be forwarded to customers by the end of the month. We hope they will be used in members’ stores from the beginning of September onwards.

Robert answers your questions…

We’ve received a number of questions and queries about the new scheme. Below I’ve done my best to answer them: Can a customer use their Insurance Replacement Card at any jewellery retailer?

No, it is only available to be used with participating members of the National Association of Goldsmiths.

How will the customer know you are part of the scheme?

You can display the N.A.G. Grant of Arms sticker on your door or window.

Where will they find your details in order to visit my store?

Customers will be directed to our website to find their nearest participating N.A.G. member.

Can a customer exchange for a cash alternative?

No, there is no cash alternative available.

What happens if a customer spends more than the value of their card?

The card will be valid for the amount stated on the mandate. If they spend more than this amount, they can pay you the difference.

What happens if the customer spends less than the value of the card?

You simply give the customer a credit note for the balance of the sale. The balance will be the difference between what they have chosen (the sale) and the value of the insurance card (the mandate).

Can a customer buy watches with their Insurance Replacement Card?

Most watches are available but some brands restrict the retailer from selling them through the scheme.

Business Support: Association Benefits | Can a customer buy branded products with their card?

Yes, branded jewellery is included in this scheme.

Can anyone use a customer’s Insurance Replacement Card?

No, only the person validating the card can use it in store. The scheme is set up to protect the policyholder from fraud and hence only he or she can use the card.

How long is a National Association of Goldsmiths Insurance Replacement Card valid for?

An Insurance Replacement Card is valid for 12 months from the date of issue as stated on the mandate.

What times are our retailer telephone validation lines open?

The lines are open, Monday through Friday 9am-8pm, Saturday 9am-6pm and Sunday 10am-5pm.

Is a retailer locked into the scheme?

Can they opt in and out?

Retailers are automatically opted in but can opt out at any time. If they do opt out and then want to rejoin, they can but subject to the terms at the time of opting back in.

Do customers approach the National Association of Goldsmiths themselves or do they approach their insurance company, which then approaches the Association?

The Association receives the validated claim from our insurance partner in the scheme.

We then send it directly to the customer who made the original claim.

What does the value on the IRS card represent (i.e. the value of the item at the time of purchase or today’s equivalent value)?

The IRS card and mandate represent the validator’s valuation of the loss. This is agreed by the customer before the claim is sent to us.

Who agrees on the value allocated to the card and mandate?

This is between the customer, the validator and insurance company.

Would you have to charge the customer more than the value on the card if the item they are claiming for is now worth more than when they originally purchased it?

Assuming they have given the correct value at the time of taking out the policy, the validator should be able to determine the value of the article at today’s price.

Is there a minimum value that can be claimed?

No, as long as it was insured, the value will be representative.

What if you can’t offer the customer what they want to buy right now?

The customer has up to 12 months to redeem the card, If they really can’t find what they want in your store, just direct them back to us and we will help them.

Can you offer the customer store gift vouchers instead? (As there is no cash alternative, does this breach the rule?)

Yes you can… that’s fine.

How do you go about claiming your costs?

It’s easy… all you need to do is email a copy of the sales receipt and mandate and return them to The N.A.G. for processing and payment.

How long does it take for you to get paid?

You will be paid by BACS within 40 days or less.

What is the card like?

The card carries the distinctive N.A.G. crest (see picture top left). There are various security features embedded in the card.

Remember… you may not have had the opportunity of making the sale at all without being part of the scheme!

And finally… If there’s anything further about the scheme you’d like to know, please feel free to contact Robert Eden direct at: membership@jewellers-online.org

The Voice of the Industry 33

| Feature

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If you plan to check out the designer aisles at IJL later this month, or you need a headsup on colour directions before hitting the gemstone booths, a little fashion-forward inspiration may help. The creatives at Swarovski Gemvisions offer their take on style pointers for the year ahead. rends aside, there are certain ‘spirits’ that Swarovski anticipates will affect the jewellery market, such as the growing influence of ‘Generation Y: those consumers born between 1977 and 1995. By 2018 ‘millennials’ ‘will have more purchasing power than any generation in history… but also the least brand loyalty’. The Gemvisions team also emphasises the importance of storytelling in order to create ‘emotional engagement’ with a client and a move towards intimate, discreet experiences for VIP shoppers – the personal family jeweller is a star of the future!

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34 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

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NEW HORIZONS This theme looks to Eastern Europe for inspiration in folkloric traditions and handicrafts – think nature worship, pagan rituals, the vast countryside and a consumer inspired by natural materials, sustainability, and symbolism and meaning in jewellery.

Look out for: Colours reminiscent of natural dyes, upside-down stones, embroidery-like mosaics, marcasite, natural crystalline shapes, pyramids, grain-shaped cuts, over-sized pieces, geometric patterns, tassels, wide cuffs, thumb rings, single earcuffs, hoops and chandelier earrings.

Left: Edson Silva ring Right: Edson Silva earcuff Below: Cuts and colours for New Horizons

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Feature | HOMMAGE A sumptuous celebration of the classics, inspired by the aesthetics of antiquity and with references to the perfectly proportioned lines of architecture. In the words of Interbrand – ‘luxury beyond luxury’. The Hommage consumer is refined, highly educated and looking for timeless elegance fused with modernity. She (or he) is likely to be a collector and an appreciator of the esoteric.

Look out for: Red and pink gold, bronze, traditional coloured gemstones such as blue sapphire, emerald and ruby, classic cuts, large bold pieces in bronze, talismanic pieces, ancient coins, intaglios, cameos, gem-carving, jewellery mimicking classical draping and architecture-inspired cuffs and rings.

Left: Isabelle Lopes ring Right: Csaba Hegedus ring Below: Cuts and colours for Hommage

ZERO TO INFINITY This story looks at the fascination with physics and explores ‘the inner forces of our personal auras and the force fields of outer space’. Typical consumers would be sophisticated, modern art lovers and forwardthinkers; the new icons being charismatic women rather than celebrities.

Look out for: Astral, electric colours and metallic hues, sci-fi effects like mercury or mixed metals, diamond with concrete, space-age metals like titanium or palladium, meteorite, carbon, coal and crystal, icy and fluorescent moonstone, labradorite, opals, grey and black diamonds, rock crystal, pearls, marcasite, star sapphires, dark and light, matt and shiny, jewellery that expands or transforms, spirals, ribs, slices of stone, invisible settings and gravity-defying designs.

Left: Isabelle Lopes ring Right: Ornella Iannuzzi ring Below: Cuts and colours for Zero to Infinity

The Voice of the Industry 35

| Feature CREATURES ‘An imaginarium of nature-fiction, of strange hybrid flora and fauna’, this trend explores the world of flowers, insects and animals (which has provided generations of jewellers with inspiration). Now the story incorporates advances in research – where nature meets science in a creative laboratory. This trend will appeal to the ‘green’ generation – socially and ecologically-aware consumers with a contemporary outlook.

Look out for: Materials inspired by biology and nature’s delicacy such as opals and mother-of-pearl, coloured metals, coloured plating, experimental materials like ceramics, rubber and acrylic, vibrant, acid-bright colours, natural, organic cuts, large gemstones complemented by tiny pavé details, honeycomb patterns, imitation tortoiseshell, bugs and butterflies, lace textile inspiration, vibrant enamel details, cell formation patterns, sub-aqua forms such as sea urchins, coral and jelly fish and succulent fruits.

Above: Edson Silva ring Left: Edson Silva creation Below: Cuts and colours for Creatures

INTIMATE A celebration of memories, feelings and intimacy – this continues the evolution over recent years of jewellery as a powerful expression of personality and emotional engagement. The key consumer of this trend will be ultra-sensitive, thoughtful and appreciative of craftsmanship and the meaning of jewels.

Look out for: Pearlescent finishes, mirror-like surfaces, milky materials, resin-like effects, pale, delicate feminine colours, moonstones, opals, white agates, morganite, gemstone cuts inspired by the curves of the body, 2D structures, hand jewels and body ornaments, demi-transparents, highly-polished surfaces, sensual and fluid lines and designs that

incorporate receptacles for perfume.

Left: Isabelle Lopes ring Right: Cuts and colours for Inti mate

36 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

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The Voice of the Industry 37

The Executive Development Forum – actively delivering value to its members since 2005 The Executive Development Forum (EDF) provides a unique opportunity for independent jewellery retail owners and directors to meet with like minded professionals in a confidential forum that fosters supportive and trusting relationships. This enables them to benchmark their business with other jewellery businesses, develop their strategic thinking, invest in their own professional development and, ultimately, grow their business.

“

I was a bit sceptical when I joined EDF as I didn’t really understand how it could add value to my business.

Now, after being a member for three years, I can categorically state without reservation that the ideas, recommendations and suggestions I receive more than cover the costs every single time I attend a meeting.

The atmosphere is supportive, encouraging and inspiring. I cannot recommend it highly enough – whatever stage your business is at, EDF can provide improvement!

EDF member The EDF facilitates the sharing of members’ experience, knowledge and expertise for the benefit of those running retail jewellery businesses and provides its members with access to: •

a members’ question and answer service on subjects as diverse as products, suppliers, policies and promotions

•

a news flash service, where relevant articles are emailed to their inbox

•

monthly performance benchmarking against other member retail jewellery businesses

•

•

•

educational store visits which benefit members by seeing and hearing first hand what other owners are doing in their stores regional member groups which meet three times a year – working to a formal agenda that helps to stimulate, challenge and motivate The Annual Oxford Congress gives all the regional groups an opportunity to engage with each other, and to hear from invited experts who contribute their unique perspective from their specialist fields

” Monthly update

The Annual Oxford Congress This year’s Congress was held at the beautiful Four Pillars Hotel on the banks of the River Thames, where delegate attendance was up 21 per cent and satisfaction ratings over 32 metrics scored 8.4.

Five experts addressed the challenging title of ‘Differentiating Yourself in a Commoditised World’ through fully interactive presentation sessions that provided advice on immediate business issues, as well as strategic stimulus for the future.

“I learned a lot in a very short space of time, great venue, speakers and content. I’ve got a lot of work to do when I get back to the office!”

Customer-facing strategic topics included ‘Discovering your distinctive values’ by Michael Donaldson (The Value Innovator), ‘Communicating your difference’ by Christine Colbert (InHouse) and ‘Engage in-store customers with on-line technology’ by Eran Shem-Tov (Stubbs & Co.) “A great day full of interesting and thought-provoking subjects – well planned and enjoyable.”

The immediate challenges of setting up the Government’s impending work place pension scheme and handling difficult HR conversations created by the legislation issues – both critical issues facing many members at this time – were expertly handled by Richard Pope (Workplace Pension Bureau) and Margaret Keane (Outsourcing HR).

All in all it was “a good, solid, valuable day”.

For more information visit the N.A.G. website and click the EDF button, or call Amanda White, information and membership services officer, on 020 7613 4445, email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org or speak to the EDF facilitator Michael Donaldson on 07817 305 122

Aug/Sept 2014 / Volume 23 / No. 7

Gem-A at IJL Idar-Oberstein field trip The mystery of the Nur-al-Ayn

Join us at STAND E111

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FGA

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014 t

Editorial

Gems&Jewellery

Aug/Sept 14 Contents Gem News

4

Gem-A Events

5

6 Hands-on Gemmology

9 Field Trips

20

The global nature of our Association never ceases to amaze or disappoint me. I have recently returned from the Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA) conference in Adelaide, where I was made most welcome by our Australian colleagues. Travelling right now is not the most enjoyable experience with heightened security, etc… but there is still nothing like face-to-face contact. It’s only by meeting and sharing ideas and concerns that our business can evolve and develop for the benefit of all.

The Middle East situation continues to bubble away and there are attempts for this to now impact our trade. I’m sure you will join me in hoping that mediation and sitting down around a table will prevail over rockets and bullets. There are those who sympathize with the plight of the Palestinians who would have us boycott Israeli goods on principle. Naturally that is a personal choice but perhaps more worrying are protests to jewellers about diamonds, claiming that Israeli diamonds are blood diamonds and, indeed, conflict diamonds.

To be clear, Israel trades around 30% of the world’s polished diamonds but is not a diamondproducing country. Conflict diamonds refer to rough diamonds, not polished — the proceeds from which have been used to fund illegal activities, specifically for armed rebellion, civil war and persecution of innocent people including women and children. Israeli dealers pay their taxes in a democratic country and yes, it is true that these monies fund (amongst other things such as healthcare and education) the Israeli military. The same as in the UK actually.

Israeli diamond merchants are simply making a living in the global diamond market and abiding by the laws of their country. Gem-A believes that we do not have the right to sanction them for doing this. However, there may be a case against both Israel and Hamas for governments to instigate sanctions, but until that happens, as a trade we should not be boycotting Israel. Individuals may have their own personal views and as most jewellers will have diamonds in their stock that have passed through Israel it is important that owners and employees have a policy and a stated position.

This highlights the need for a clear supply chain and is exactly the reason why the UK Jewellery Ethics Committee (JEC-UK) is preparing a diamond paper. Gem-A supports our members in Israel and our friends at the Israel Diamond Exchange and defends their right to make an honest living.

Recent scurrilous articles have suggested that our own president Harry Levy is somehow in favour of the conflict and desires to see the Palestinians overwhelmed by Israel. In fact what we all want is a peaceful solution where all parties can live in peace and harmony, and I’m sure all of you would support that. There are those who would seek to damage our business through libellous untruths and deliberate misquoting of the facts in return for publicizing their own position. These people are dangerous and must not be allowed to hijack our trade for their own personal aggrandizement.

As we start to ramp up the year with the pre-Christmas trade shows, one always has that feeling of trepidation. It is a busy time of year for traders. Will retailers fill their windows — do they need to?

For us it is the start of the academic year and the build up to our annual conference. I hope to see many of you over the coming months, starting at IJL at Olympia, and to be able to welcome you to our conference at the Royal Agricultural Hall — the site of the main UK trade show in days gone by.

Plus ça change…?

James Riley Chief Executive Officer

Gem and Jewellery History Cover Picture The Felsenkirche (Crag Church), one of Idar-Oberstein’s defining landmarks.

See our Idar-Oberstein Field Trip report on page 9. Photo: Gem-A.

Aug/Sept 2014 / Volume 23 / No. 7

Gem-A at IJL Idar-Oberstein field trip The mystery of the Nur-al-Ayn

Any opinions expressed in Gems&Jewellery are understood to be the views of the contributors and not necessarily those of the publishers.

Published by The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) 21 Ely Place, London EC1N 6TD t: +44 (0)20 7404 3334 f: +44 (0)20 7404 8843 e: editor@gem-a.com w: www.gem-a.com

Editor James Riley

Registered charity no. 1109555 Copyright 2014 ISSN 1746-8043

Design and Production Zest Design +44 (0)20 7864 1504

Production Editor Georgina Brown Advisory Board Mary Burland, Harry Levy

Advertising For mediapack and advertising rates please contact Ian Francis at the National Association of Goldsmiths on tel: +44 (0)20 7749 1705 or email him at: ian@jewellers-online.org

Page 3

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Gem News

Gem news Terry Coldham becomes GAA patron Terry Coldham FGAA, a past federal president of the Gemmological Association of Australia, was honoured at last month’s GAA Conference in Adelaide by being made a patron of the Association. In 2012 Terry, who sold his business Sapphex in 2010, was presented with an award by the Gold & Silversmiths Guild of Australia in recognition of his lifelong achievements in the industry.

Terry will be speaking at the Gem-A Conference (1–2 November 2014) on the subject of Australian sapphire — ‘a forgotten foundation stone of Thailand’s gemstone industry’.

New staff at Gem-A Gem-A welcomes two new staff members to the team: Kim Foxwell MA Cert. GA, who joins us as receptionist and administrator, and Elaine Ruddie MSc Cert. GA, our new Marketing and Events Manager. Kim began her career in the jewellery industry training under established designer-maker Barbara Bertagnolli, before taking Holts’ Level 3 Manufacturing course. Kim is currently enrolled on the Gemmology Diploma course. Elaine has an integrated marketing background; she has worked in experiential marketing for Nintendo, on-site at events for Twitter and most recently at Nude Jewellery in Mayfair where she was responsible for marketing and PR. The team is delighted to have Kim and Elaine on board.

We also announce the retirement of staff member Alan Clark FGA DGA, who has retired after 34 years of dedicated service.

Illicit trafficking of CAR diamonds monitored Participants and observers to the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) Intersessional meeting held in Shanghai on 9–12 June 2014, devoted special attention to illicit trafficking of diamonds from the Central African Republic (CAR).

Concern was expressed about production of diamonds continuing in CAR, and that in spite of the temporary suspension of CAR

Page 4

via the Administrative Decision on CAR of 23 May 2013, information presented at the intersessional indicates that there have been cases of international shipments containing diamonds of CAR origin.

It was agreed that the possible introduction of rough diamonds produced in CAR into the legitimate diamond trade threatens the integrity and credibility of the KPCS and that the KP should make major efforts to assist CAR and other participants — notably those in the region most exposed to possible illicit trafficking of rough diamonds from CAR — to ensure that such diamonds don’t reach the legitimate trade.

In June 2014 officials in Belgium seized a parcel of rough diamonds with the characteristics of rough diamonds originating from CAR. The KPCS Working Group of Diamond Experts provides a report on the characteristics of diamond production from CAR’s eastern region. The Government Diamond Office requests that traders be vigilant and report any suspicious parcels of diamonds with the characteristics outlined in the report.

Gübelin offers ‘next generation’ gem reports A joint initiative between Gübelin Gem Lab and Gemfields will see the laboratory offering clients the choice of whether to have their names included on Gübelin’s

gemstone certificates. Traditionally, gemstone certificates have been issued without disclosing the identity of the party presenting the gemstone to the laboratory.

As such, the owner of the gemstone at that point has remained anonymous.

Ian Harebottle, Gemfields CEO said: “Gemfields believes that the more information we can share about a gemstone’s journey, the better. This innovation will improve the resolution of the chain-of-custody picture available to consumers and industry participants. We hope, as the global gem industry marches toward greater transparency and disclosure, that it will also be adopted by our colleagues in the diamond business, where it would be equally beneficial.”

Although new to Gübelin, the practice of allowing clients to opt in or out of disclosure on a certificate is not without precedent.

For some years GIA lab reports have featured tear-off slips so that clients can choose whether or not to be revealed on a report.

Antwerp fair date The Antwerp Diamond Trade Fair, an event solely dedicated to loose diamond business, will be held from 1–3 February 2015. The by-invitation only event, a joint initiative of the Antwerp Diamond Bourse, the Diamond Club of Antwerp and the Antwerp Diamond Ring exchanges, is held on the bourse’s diamond trading floors.

Diamond theft averted A parcel of Zimbabwe diamonds, worth ‘millions of dollars’ from the Jinan diamond mine, was reportedly stolen at an auction last month at the Dubai Diamond Exchange.

A buyer of Lebanese descent swapped one of the two Jinan gem parcels containing rough diamonds worth millions of dollars with a parcel valued at $10,000.

Jinan company officials discovered the theft of the diamonds when they saw discrepancies on the weights of the swapped parcels. Security video footage was used to identify the alleged thief who confessed to stealing the 54 pieces of diamonds, which were all recovered.

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Gem-A Events

Gem-A events Gem-A Conference 2014

1-4 November Business Design Centre, Islington.

Gem-A will host its internationally-acclaimed annual conference on the 1 and 2 November at the Business Design Centre, Islington.

This year features talks from Edward Boehm GG CG, Bruce Bridges, Dr Laurent Cartier FGA, Terry Coldham FGAA, Brian Cook, Dr Thomas Hainschwang FGA, Alan Hart FGA DGA, Dr Ulrich Henn, Richard Hughes FGA, Craig Lynch GG, Vincent Pardieu GG, Dr Menahem Sevdermish FGA and Chris Smith FGA. Contact events@gem-a.com for a booking form.

Gem Central evenings Gem Central evenings take place at the Gem-A headquarters from 18:00–19:30.

Gem Central will be held on the following evenings: 6 October, 10 November and 16 December.

Gem-A Workshops Our range of introductory ‘Understanding’ workshops are ideal for jewellers with no gemmological background, or for anyone who needs a refresher. The intermediate ‘Investigating’ workshops are for gemmologists and jewellers with gemmological knowledge.

Workshop prices: Gem-A/NAG/BJA Members and Gem-A Students: £100, Non-members: £120 Understanding diamond grading 25 September 2014 Gem-A headquarters, London This specialist workshop focuses on the key aspects of diamond grading, giving a unique insight into the 4Cs and their impact on value. Led by Gem-A’s experienced diamond tutor (with prior retail experience), Claire Mitchell FGA DGA, participants will be guided through the underlying theory before seeing

the practical side of cut, colour, clarity and carat weight on both loose and mounted diamonds. This course provides the perfect foundations for those wanting to either go forward to study the full Diamond Diploma course, or to embark upon a career in the retail diamond market.

Understanding diamond simulants 26 September 2014 Gem-A headquarters, London An important practical workshop for those working, or considering working, in the diamond market. Andrew Fellows FGA DGA explains the key differences between diamond and its simulants, and how to recognize them both as loose stones, and in set or mounted jewellery. Using basic observation techniques and readily available instruments, such as diamond and combination testers, participants will be taught to quickly and effectively separate diamonds from all other imitations, thus preventing costly purchasing errors, and allowing informed buying decisions to be made. The two main commercially available simulants (synthetic moissanite and CZ) will be available for testing throughout the day, along with lesser-seen stones that have been used predominantly in antique jewellery, such as colourless sapphire, zircon, synthetic spinel and paste.

Investigating gemstone treatments 3 October 2014 Gem-A headquarters, London This one-day specialist workshop focuses on the common treatments currently seen in the gemstone industry, and their detection using readily available instruments and techniques. Treatments covered will include glass-filling and heat-treatment of corundum (ruby and sapphire), laserdrilling and/or fracture-filling of diamonds and diffusion treatments, amongst others.

Show Dates

Gem-A will be exhibiting at the following shows: International Jewellery London (IJL) Stand J31, Olympia London 31 August – 2 September

Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair Booth 3M046, Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre 15 – 21 September

Other events and conferences IRV Loughborough Conference 2014 13 September 2014 Burleigh Court Conference Centre, Loughborough University Gem-A will be joining the Institute of Registered Valuers for its annual Loughborough Conference. As one of the highlights of the UK’s trade-show calendar, the IRV Conference gives valuers, jewellers and gemmologists the chance to come together and share knowledge, tips and advice about their areas of expertise. The three-day conference comprises a number of feature lectures, supported by workshops and evening social events.

GemWorld: World of Gems Conference 20–21 September 2014 Chicago, USA Gem-A is proud to be Gold Plus Gala Sponsor for GemWorld’s World of Gems Conference 2014. The World of Gems Conferences are highly-acclaimed global events with top international speakers and include networking and social events, and of course gemmological information, pricing and marketing information. New this year will be the opportunity to stay an additional two days for the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers Mid-Year Conference, to be held following the World of Gems Conference.

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Hands-on gemmology

Call my bluff Grenville Millington FGA looks at an unusual red stone sent in for testing.

Amongst half a dozen stones sent to me for testing was a pinkish red gem of unusual cut (1). The cut style was octagon/scissor cut but with larger ‘corners’, making it far more of an octagon than the standard cut-cornered style that is generally referred to as ‘octagon’ in the trade. The facet placement and symmetry were all very regular, and it appeared to be clean inside but had a somewhat bluish or greyish haze.

The stone was sent in as a ‘ruby’ and was in contrast to another in the batch, also labelled ruby, which was dark red and more irregular in its oval form.

1: Pinkish red stone weighing 1.23 ct.

After a few seconds of examination this stone had already notched up a few (what could be termed) ‘non-ruby’ attributes: it was quite pink with a hazy look, of an unusual, fully symmetrical cut, and to the eye was inclusion-free (if we ignore the hazy character, which is nearly always due to light-scattering from microscopic inclusions).

None of what has been mentioned so far rules out anything as far as identification is concerned, but we are all probably guilty of

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forming some sort of opinion as to a stone’s identity before getting down to using any of the standard gem testing instruments.

The gem weighed 1.23 ct and measured 7.0 × 6.2 × 2.8 mm. A spectroscope was the first instrument used and this gave the result shown in 2a. The spectrum was unmistakably ruby, although the lines in the red and blue were faint and the general absorption area across the green was lighter in tone and narrower than usual, but this can be attributed to the light red residual colour. Only the fluorescent emission doublet was strong. It was interesting to compare this spectrum of a pinkish ruby to the other accompanying ruby for testing, which was a dark, full red.

This second ruby can be seen in 2b, with its spectrum shown in 2c.

Under longwave UV the pinkish stone showed a bright red fluorescence. The stone was therefore ruby (corundum) material, which left three options: ruby of natural origin (we can leave out the question of any treatments for now), synthetic ruby, or a composite stone containing at least one of the preceding two.

To determine which one of the options this stone was, recourse was made to the microscope. Very soon into the examination something resembling a bubble was seen (3a), and then others were found (3b).

3a

2a: Spectrum of 1.23 ct stone, typical for pinkish rubies.

Dark red stone weighing 2.08 ct.

2c: Spectrum of 2.08 ct stone

The spectrum had already indicated that the stone was ruby material and so glass could be ruled out, as could natural ruby, which left synthetic ruby or a composite.

Immediately the hazy look put me in mind of a pinkish red synthetic star stone from Kyocera, one of which I have in my general collection. Another look seemed to suggest that these ‘inclusions’ were actually at 3b

3a,b: What appears to be ‘bubbles’ seen in the 1.23 ct stone.

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Hands-on gemmology

6a

4a,b 4a,b: Light and shade effect on a hemispherical cavity (left) and on a raised spot (right).

the surface. It is quite common to find bubbles that have been cut through by a polished facet, leaving a hemispherical cavity. However, I was puzzled that there were so many and that there was no sign of a bubble within the body of the stone. Upon a second look I realized that the general view of the ‘cavity’ was not quite right.

Taking into account the direction of the overhead light, the view should appear as shown in 4a, but instead looked like 4b.

This suggested it was a raised spot on the surface, in which case the stone needed to be wiped with a cloth. Once wiped however, I noticed the spots were still there. Another vigorous wipe and a clean failed to change the appearance under the microscope; the spots were there to stay. Many of them were on the table of the stone, as shown in 5a. Altering the angle of incident light, so that it just grazed the table surface, 5a

5b

5a,b: Raised spots on the table of the stone.

6b

6c

6: What appears to be (a) Straight graining or zoning lines and (b) hexagonal zoning seen in the 1.23 ct stone, magnification 60×. 6c: Growth lines intersecting at 120˚ in a 1.04 ct Burmese ruby, magnification 35×. The lines shown in 6a and b were later revealed to be polishing lines.

produced a more recognizable picture of the spots (5b).

I've seen gems set in jewellery, especially brooches or necklace snaps, that had spots of hair lacquer etc, but the ones on our test stone were immovable (without the right solvent) and were very small. I could only assume they were epoxy resin or similar, but there was no sign of fractures or cavity filling in this stone. So, the ‘bubbles’ were a bluff, and natural ruby was back on the possibilities list.

Focusing below the surface, two other scenes looked familiar; straight graining or zoning lines (6a) and hexagonal zoning (6b). Something very similar to 6b can be seen in 6c, which is hexagonal linear zoning in a Burmese ruby.

However, the lines and zones in this test stone changed course at every facet junction: they were polishing lines and 6b shows a facet edge. When such polishing striations are a little out of focus, as here, it is not always readily apparent that they are surface marks only.

Another bluff!

Whilst looking for something that was definitely inside this stone I did find some tiny inclusions that were too small to resolve themselves into anything recognizable under the lighting conditions (7).

You will notice that 7 also displays a heat-haze effect, as expected in hydrothermal synthetic stones, but once again this effect is produced in this stone by out-of-focus polishing lines.

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Hands-on gemmology

Call my bluff (cont.)

8a

8b

7: What appears to be the heat-haze effect, as expected in hydrothermal synthetic stones.

Magnification 80×.

I now needed to ascertain whether the test stone was natural or synthetic.

There was no evidence to show it was a composite; there no were no junction edges, flattened bubbles or 'dust' particles at the junction interface. I examined the gem again but with a 10× lens, and on turning it through various angles, under the girdle there was a sudden flash of light, which then disappeared. A tiny fraction of a second was all that was necessary, as it

9: The narrow section of parallel colour zoning.

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had given me the clue as to which direction to look. The gem was returned to the microscope, placed under an overhead light and turned to show the underside, just below the girdle. After some minute changes of position one facet lit up (8a).

A closer look is shown in 8b. What was seen were extremely thin, transparent films or discs, some of irregular hexagons and rhombus shapes, and all arranged in parallel planes. These were only visible in reflected light at precisely the correct viewing angle to the incident light (you will notice there are none visible outside the facet area in 8a). These were obviously tiny epigenetic exsolution crystals of rutile, typical of those seen in natural rubies.

This was final proof that the stone was natural and also that no high temperature heat treatment had been applied, as these discs would have been reduced to specks.

They were also the probable cause of the haziness in the gem if they occurred throughout the stone. Another feature that required precise lining up of the viewing

8a,b: The facet of the 1.23 ct stone showing extremely thin, transparent films or discs.

angle was a narrow section of parallel colour zoning (9). Submerging the gem in water showed only vague colour areas to the eye (10).

In the end all the bluffs were called and the gem finally revealed itself as a natural ruby.

And what about the refractive index, just to wrap it up? It was 1.763–1.771 (birefringence 0.008).

10: The stone immersed in water.

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Field Trips

From source to sale: the Gem-A field trip to Idar-Oberstein

Olga Gonzalez FGA takes us on the Gem-A field trip to Idar-Oberstein — the excursion of a gemmologist’s lifetime.

Steeped in over 400 years of gem history and with a name that evokes wonder within the trade, the small German town of IdarOberstein was chosen as the location for Gem-A’s return to providing field trips for gemmologists. Gem-A members, GIA alumni and gem and jewellery enthusiasts came together for a fascinating eight-day excursion to this historical region, with a hands-on opportunity to meet key players in the trade whose talents range from gemstone cutting, cameo carving, diamond cutting and synthetic gemstone development, to curating museum collections. Historically, Idar and

Oberstein, two municipalities now combined into one, were dependent on farming.

Geological finds provided farmers with additional means of support and mining became an integral part of life there, particularly during the winter. The introduction of better machinery and mining techniques made it possible to extract and utilize quartz, including agate, amethyst, jasper, rock crystal and smoky quartz.

The topography of the region gave the valley towns access to the water that drove the mills and turned huge sandstone wheels to cut and carve the raw materials.

The Felsenkirche (Crag Church), one of the town’s defining landmarks.

A delicious spiessbraten at Constantin Wild’s.

Photo Deborah Mazza.

These workshops were family-owned, and many of these names are still synonymous with the trade in Idar-Oberstein. Building upon this heritage, the master craftsmen of IdarOberstein today are known for their advanced lapidary techniques and are the first destination for anyone looking for objets d’art of unsurpassed excellence and quality.

Bright and early at 5:30 am on Saturday 21 June 2014, 16 travelling companions met at the Gem-A headquarters. After a cozy journey across the English Channel and through France, Belgium and Germany, we arrived in Idar-Oberstein at suppertime.

Our first treat was spiessbraten. The traditional way of barbecuing meat, spiessbraten consists of a tripod structure with a rotating hanging pan, atop a hardwood fire.

Spiessbraten became the introductory conversation for many visits, where hosts expressed their ‘other talent’ for the grill.

An entertaining and culinary treat, hotel staff

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Field Trips

Field trip to Idar-Oberstein (cont.)

The group outside the Edelsteinminen. Photo Deborah Mazza.

at the beautiful ParkHotel demonstrated spiessbraten to trip participants, and the evening allowed us all the opportunity to bond as a group.

We set out early on a gorgeous Sunday morning to the Edelsteinminen — the old agate mines in Algenrodt. A scenic walk to the mine took us past a clearing where once upon a time they would hang anyone caught stealing from the mine. Of course, this then became the first of many ‘gemmology’ photo opportunities. Group pictures were taken after the donning of fancy yellow mining helmets, and we then learned about the formation of quartz, agate and jasper, which forms as highly mineralized ‘pockets’ trapped in the molten host. We also saw some beautiful sights

Erwin Pauly, Master Craftsman, carving.

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within the mine, including an underground river. After the mines there was a spontaneous (and very generous) visit to Erwin Pauly and Frau Pauly, as Erwin, master carver and developer of the free-form cameos that became popular in the 1970s, was so keen for everyone to get an opportunity to carve a cameo, that he was afraid we wouldn’t have time during our visit scheduled for Monday, and he wanted to give us more time and also share lunch with us.

Next on the agenda was a visit to the Kupferbergwerk mine: the copper mountain works. These were extremely impressive due to the sheer size of the mines and the extensive information the tour guide gave regarding the physically arduous life of miners. It could sometimes take the miners up to four hours to crawl into the mines, only to then work a 12-hour shift. Miners were also exposed to large amounts of sulphur that stunted their growth and severely decreased their life expectancy.

The miners would then give their findings to the King and in turn were granted a stipend. Despite these hardships the miners were still the envy of the local farmers.

The last visit on Sunday included the Deutsches Mineralienmuseum, set in the

gorgeous centre of Oberstein, where we learned about the early water-powered equipment used for cutting and polishing stones, whereby workers would operate mills lying flat on their stomachs. The museum, spread over four floors, is packed with stunning examples of gems and minerals from around the world, including a room full of fluorescent samples. The museum also features examples of craftsmanship from the local area, including the smallest cameo in the world and a cabinet of agate cameos featuring the faces of every American president. This delightful start to the trip culminated in a visit (the first of many) to an ice-creamery that, dare I say it, had it licked!

Monday began with an engaging visit to Emil Weis, an opal cutter in Kirschweiler who thrilled all with his selection of opals.

Herr Schütz showed us all the rough material and then demonstrated the machinery used… even letting us try it out! It was my

Boulder opals from Queensland, Australia.

Top: 16.93 ct from Frankilin Station, measuring 22.9 x 16.7 x 5mm.

Bottom: 9.8 ct from Winton, measuring 22 x 11 x 5.3 mm.

Photos by Emil Weis.

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Field Trips

Carole Spooner and Jim Johnson behind the polishing wheel at Emil Weis.

Foods carved from gemstones, including biscuits, jelly sweets and nuts. Photo Deborah Mazza.

first time behind a polishing wheel, which was brilliant. Two members, Jim Johnson and Carole Spooner (pictured), produced the group’s best efforts at a cabochon.

Emil Weis was also the first of many trade opportunities that we encountered and he allowed us to purchase gems for our own jewellery designs, retail stores or personal collections.

Wild & Petsch, stonecutters par excellence in Kirschweiler, were the next stop. They captivated all with a first-hand, step-by-step demonstration of how to start with rough, doing the pre-forming and ending with a cut and polished gemstone.

For those who have not seen this process before it was a wonderful insight into a modern lapidary. This high-end business demonstrated that it was possible for a large workshop to look as pristine as a hospital laboratory. Upstairs the trade showroom gave us the opportunity to see the largest collection (and widest variety) of the finest cut stones any of us had ever seen.

The last stop of the day was to revisit Erwin Pauly, who greeted us like old friends, and who let everyone try a hand at carving cameos. Erwin and his equally-talented son Gerhard Pauly, assisted each one of us with cheerfully patient encouragement, despite us probably being the worst pupils he has ever had! Let’s just say my ‘Manhattan skyline’ cameo couldn’t be helped much — carving a straight line into agate is harder than it looks! While we waited our turns, the everpatient Frau Erna Pauly entertained us with anecdotes and produced ever more amazing examples of Pauly talent. It was touching and

counterpart — the Deutsche Gemmologische Gesellschaft (DGemG —German Gemmological Association), where we were afforded the privilege of a guided tour of its wonderful facility by Dr Ulrich Henn, managing director of the DGemG. We began with the in-house exhibition featuring chemically-grouped gemstones, the order getting approving nods from all of us who could recall our classroom theory. Nowhere was out of bounds; we gatecrashed a diamond class and tried to pose intelligently as the head of the laboratory Dr Claudio Milisenda and his enthusiastic assistant Dr Klaus Schollenbruch ran through the services and the equipment that DGemG offer to the trade.

Next, a short stroll along the hillside took us to Harald Schneider. Schneider Gemmological Equipment is a fascinating business that grew out of a close historical association between the optical excellence of Zeiss, the exacting specifications and requirements of the DGemG, and the

One of Manfred Wild’s famous eggs, created from the world’s largest garnet.

Photo Deborah Mazza.

humbling to be treated with such courtesy and kindness by this great family.

Tuesday was another thrilling day, with a visit to Hermann Petry in Herborn, who has a fascinating collection of rough material, including massive crates of local agate filling his garden, and where he graciously let members choose a piece. This was another friendly source that enabled us to increase our personal stone collections, as well as make another valuable contact. Next on the agenda was a visit to Friedrich August Becker, another renowned gemstone cutter. With their Idar premises laid out like a museum, each room brought hushed gasps and excited whispers. Every item, whether rough, cut or carved stood out like a piece in a personal collection — selected with care, displayed with pride and sold with a story. With total trust we were allowed to roam free, losing ourselves in this wonderful maze.

The true fellowship of the gemmological world peaked with our visit to the Gem-A’s

Manfred Wild’s replica schooner, carved from rock crystal and gold.

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Field Trips

Field trip to Idar-Oberstein (cont.)

Toad carved from jasper and bloodstone, exhibited at the Deutsches Edelsteinmuseum.

genius of another of Idar-Oberstein’s great families. Schneider was at the forefront of many key developments in making gemmological instruments more accurate and user-friendly. His dichroscope has a 3× lens to augment the two-field polarizer, while his desk polariscope is an item of engineering beauty, and the immersion microscope with Zeiss-Stemi optics is the stuff of lab fantasies. We all witnessed firsthand that there truly is a huge leap in the clarity and quality between a premium loupe of €160 and one of €290, if anyone wants ideas for a little stocking filler…

Delicate and fine carved gem feathers, just some of the many wonderful carved pieces shown to us at Herbert Klein’s. Photo Deborah Mazza.

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Harald’s optical products ooze quality in a world easily seduced by the cheap and nasty.

Kevin, our long-suffering coach driver, stopped next at an unassuming suburban house that contained gem treasures that would have made all the treasures of the Raj look dull. Carvings of incredible perfection and artistic flair left us speechless. Like a magician with an audience of goggle-eyed five-year olds, Manfred Wild plucked objets d’art from his wondrous studio collection and beguiled us with the creative journey that led to the treasure in his hands. We were the first to view his latest creation and one of his specialities — an egg to rival Fabergé’s best, but this one carved from the world’s largest garnet. We were spell-bound while gazing at a replica schooner carved from rock crystal and gold, and food items of such a delectable perfection that to have been both hungry and wealthy at that moment would have been a danger to one’s teeth.

Wednesday began with a visit to the famous Deutsches Edelsteinmuseum, where a superior collection of gems and minerals has been developed and curated by many of the same hosts we had visited, and who had actively donated their art, time and resources to building one of the most

incredible collections in the world. Our gracious guide was none other than Manfred Wild. After hearing the remarkable history of the building we were taken on a trip through the region’s history; the birth of the workshops and on through to the wonders of the rock and gem world. The ‘Dilemma of the Master Craftsman’ was presented to us again and again; after creating a work of superlative beauty and perfection from the finest materials, so often the creator hesitates when the prospect of their work being sold is contemplated. The thought of their masterpiece disappearing to only ever be seen by a select few becomes a travesty in their eyes. It was our good fortune that the museum is blessed with many of these masterpieces, saved from a lonely existence in a distant palace, and instead standing proud amongst peers, to be appreciated by many — to the financial detriment, yet spiritual fulfilment, of their creator.

‘The Creation of Adam’ by Richard Hahn is a Brazilian agate piece based on the famous work

by Michelangelo, exhibited at the Deutsches Edelsteinmuseum. Photo Deborah Mazza.

By this Wednesday afternoon we were all sitting with our heads in our hands in awe. The glorious view from Herbert Klein’s workshop of the manicured grounds and the buildings in the Idar valley was not sufficient distraction. We gazed in wonder as tray after tray was placed in front of us, all containing beautifully carved gems: the classic and the quirky, the whimsical and the cheeky; these little objects could make the shortest arms find a wallet in the deepest sporran. There were rabbits and bears, irises

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Field Trips

Some of the chains made by Jakob Bengel.

Photo Olga Gonzalez.

and roses, kittens and scarabs… all making best advantage of the tourmaline, ruby, sapphire, garnet and quartzes from which they were carved. Unfazed by the gawping group that cluttered their lovely workshop, Stefan Klein let his carvers demonstrate their remarkable talent to us. We watched as a lump of rock crystal, looking like a blob of candle wax, was transformed into a flower, with its delicate petals arching back.

Perfect placement of grooves and cuts gave the suggestion of frilly edges and fragile form. The reality, of course, is that the material would be far more durable than any plastic or glass.

Phillip Hahn was the last stop of the day and this was our opportunity to see a pristine and fascinating diamond-cutting outfit — the only one in Idar-Oberstein.

This would be the first stop for anyone looking for diamonds with that ‘special touch’ from a family-run and communityintegrated business, able to offer some truly special options — it owns the rights to Gabi Tolkowsky’s designs. It was an extraordinary privilege to see, and like all our hosts Herr Hahn had gone to great lengths to give us unfettered access to his business and to make our visit as interesting and educational as possible.

Thursday morning was a real treat with a visit to the Jakob Bengel Foundation, which had some of the most incredible machines custom-built for chain making.

With catalogues containing thousands of unique designs it brought jewellery to the masses, or, more specifically, encouraged jewellery as a fashion accessory, because for the first time many could afford to own a wide variety of jewellery pieces due to the use of galalith as a ‘stone’, and chains from common metals, plated to look like gold or silver. In a fashion world that was in love with art deco and wildly excited about Coco Chanel’s designs, and with a magazine like Vogue delivering succour to a Europe traumatized first by the Great War and then by the Depression, Bengel provided access to objects of great style and beauty.

Next we were shown through a facility struggling to secure itself after a flood that

Galalith ‘Galalith’ or ‘erinoid’ is a type of synthetic plastic material which is manufactured in the interaction of casein protein (found in milk) and formaldehyde. Developed by Wilhelm Krische and Friedrich Adolph Spitteler in 1897, the material could be easily dyed, cut and embossed. In addition Necklaces made using dyed galalith in to this it is odourless, non-flammable, the Art Deco style. Photo Deborah Mazza. biodegradable and has a hardness of 2.5 on Mohs’ scale, making it perfect for use in cheap jewellery. Due to its low production costs, galalith was used in the design and production of inexpensive striking fashion jewellery by artists such as Jacob Bengel and Auguste Bonaz, during the rise of affordable costume jewellery and the art deco style of the 1920s.

submerged whole floors of machinery over 100 years old. As a testament to the skills of the machinists who had built much of the equipment all those years ago, not only did all the machines just need a good clean and some oil to become fully operational again, but those machines can still be entrusted to slog, unattended through the night, with a roll of wire to produce a small mountain of chain for the morning. A very interesting point made was that Bengel gets no business from the high-end luxury goods manufacturers (some of whose styles they aspired to bring to the masses 90 years ago), because its quality is too high.

In the words of our guide “The luxury market

One of the catalogues at the Jakob Bengel Foundation containing thousands of designs for chains and fashion jewellery. Photo Olga Gonzalez.

knows that someone who can spend hundreds or thousands on a handbag will already have many to choose from, and so their product will not be extensively used and does not need to be made from the highest quality components. They know it is being bought for the name and it will be out of fashion in a year. Our chains and components are too well made for them”.

With tours run by passionate volunteers such as our guide Herr Karl-Dieter Braun, it was evident that the community wanted to keep the innovation and quality of Bengel alive, even with limited staff and production runs on the current premises.

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Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Field Trips

Field trip to Idar-Oberstein (cont.)

Left and above: synthetic boules created at the Forschungsinstitut. The rods are cut from the boules and used in various laser applications.

Images Olga Gonzalez.

Thursday afternoon was a blast and indeed went through to the wee hours with the gracious Constantin Wild, a gemstone cutter in Idar who is also renowned for his spiessbraten skills and the ability to throw an amazing party in his garden! Constantin treated us to a tour of his cutting facilities and an incredible custom-designed studio, where we saw wooden trays full of raw stones ready for cutting and polishing, as well as his ‘Gem Room’, packed with breathtakingly beautiful, rare stones. After the tour we enjoyed music, delicious food, dancing and his mysterious peach schnapps. Check out www.constantinwild.com/blog/visit-from-greatbritain for Constantin’s review of the day.

The final day started with a visit to the Forschungsinstitut in Oberstein Struth to learn about synthetics and to see them being grown. During a fascinating excursion, the group saw gems in all stages of the process, and learned about many industrial and alternative laser applications (such as tattoo removal and the treatment of kidney stones) from the distinguished Professor Ackermann. The Forschungsinstitut was the most commercial outfit we visited.

The application of physics, chemistry and heavy investment in technology did not isolate them from the Idar-Oberstein spirit of community. While the gem market is of relatively minor significance to them, the staff

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are supported and encouraged to participate and strive for excellence as cutters. A wall of awards, photographs and certificates testifies to their success and showcases displayed their outstanding products cut to full advantage. It might be synthetic, but a 50 ct ruby is still quite breathtaking to behold.

After lunch we moved on to Groh & Ripp, gemstone cutters in Tiefenstein.

Shaking hands with Jürgen Brust, someone must have said ‘open sesame’, for Aladdin would have been amazed at what filled the basement. Our affable host led us past rows of pallets, shelves, old oil drums and into strong rooms. Like small children we picked things out and, despite our best efforts as gemmologists, the refrain “What’s this?” echoed back and forth among us as Jürgen patiently responded with names such as Peruvian opal, Namibian tiger’s-eye,

Constantin Wild’s stock of raw materials.

Photo Olga Gonzalez.

Arizona Sleeping Beauty turquoise and New Zealand kauri. We passed boxes, crates and tubs of raw material and finally emerged, bewildered, in the sterile surrounds of an ultra-modern factory floor where huge, gleaming precision CNC machines hummed busily away, attended by a team of friendly operators. Here the lumps of rock from the cellars were turned into the tiniest of components for an incredible array of applications in watches, pens, clocks and various laser components. Not forgotten in another airy studio, bathed in natural light, a team of faceters turned the finer materials into the finest of their wares.

For those who know my personal style and my obsession for contemporary jewellery and free-form cuts, the icing on the cake was the visit to Atelier Munsteiner in Stipshausen, where a third-generation family business has made a name for itself internationally as one of the stars of the trade, and for good reason. Each year the company introduces a limited edition of loose gemstones with fabulous cuts, as well as a selection of gorgeous jewellery. Its studio is beautifully designed and gemstone art is prevalent throughout, such as the project containing 160 natural-colour citrine stones. Bernd Munsteiner then took us to the church in Stipshausen, where the Munsteiner family have donated two stunning agate windows, using 10,000 to 20,000 pieces of agate, as well as a carved quartz cross and two beautiful candlesticks for the altar.

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Field Trips

One of the agate windows donated to the church in Stipshausen (Left) and the quartz cross and candlesticks on the altar (above), donated by the Munsteiner family.

One of the pieces of art decorating Atelier Munsteiner (right), made from 160 natural-colour citrine, rock crystal and smoky quartz.

Photo Olga Gonzalez.

The windows certainly give any stained glasses creation a run for its money, and in my opinion, nothing is more gorgeous than a gem mosaic window with light coming through.

Kevin had become an integral part of the group from the very first morning, and on the final Saturday when he whisked us safely home on the coach, paid a bonus visit to a Belgian chocolate factory en route.

It would be an understatement to say the field trip was a success — every participant came away with glowing reviews of their experiences. Everyone we met treated us with patience, kindness and courtesy as we fumbled with unfamiliar money, made dreadful assumptions that they could all speak English (they could) and supported different teams at the World Cup. Deborah Mazza, organizer of the trip, summed it up well: “Gemmologists rediscover the ancient art of stone cutting, carving and engraving in the old German town; they refresh their inspiration through this unique insight into the exceptional craftsmanship and experience hands-on that which can only usually be read in text books.” Sarah Steele of Ebor Jetworks in Whitby also said: “The art of lapidary is usually a closed shop, and yet the Gem-A trip to Idar-Oberstein has given me, as a British stone cutter,

an unprecedented behind-the-scenes tour of some of the world’s finest lapidary works.

I consider the knowledge I have gained personally and professionally to be priceless.”

To be kept up-to-date with the latest about the next field trip, email your details to events@gem-a.com to be added to the mailing list.

Gem-A would like to thank Deborah Mazza, Amandine Rongy and Charles Evans for the outstanding job they all did in planning, organizing and executing the fantastic week.

Gem-A would also like to thank all of our welcoming hosts, who showed unfaltering kindness, warmth and trust by opening their doors to us, and who gave us the trip of a lifetime: Herr and Frau Schütz of Emil Weis (www.emilweisopals.com), Ralf Neumann of Wild & Petsch (www.wildpetsch.com), Herr and Frau Pauly (www.erwin-pauly.de), Thorsten Petry of Hermann Petry (www.edelstein-design.eu), Andreas and Friedrich Becker of Friedrich August Becker (www.becker-edelsteine.de), Dr Ulrich Henn and Dr Claudio Milisenda of the Deutsche Gemmologische Gesellschaft (www.dgemg.com/en/), Harald Schneider of Schneider Gemmologische Geräte (www.gemmologie-schneider.de), Manfred Wild of Emil Becker (www.emil-becker.de), Stefan and Gaby Klein of Herbert Klein (www.herbert-klein.de), Dieter Hahn of Philipp Hahn Söhne (www.diamantschleiferei.de), Constantin Wild and Alessandro Milisenda of Constantin Wild (www.gemstone.de / www.constantinwild.com), Dr Lothar Ackermann of Forschungsinstitut für mineralische und metallische Werkstoffe — Edelsteine/Edelmetalle (www.fee-io.de), Jürgen Brust of Groh & Ripp (www.groh-ripp.de), Bernd and Tom Munsteiner of Atelier Munsteiner (www.munsteiner-cut.de), Karl-Dieter Braun and Frau Hartenberger of Jakob Bengel Stiftung (www.jakob-bengel.de).

Thanks also to The ParkHotel, a wonderful place to retire to each evening. The rooms provided comfortable surroundings for our sore-footed group and every morning the delicious breakfast fuelled us for another busy day.

Kevin Johns, our coach driver of Travelstar Gatwick, also deserves special thanks for getting us there and back safely. He integrated well with the group, was ever helpful and courteous, and his decades of experience with larger groups on far more challenging trips meant that he always had the perfect suggestion for minimizing the walking and maximizing the ‘Gem Time’. We hope to have him as the first name on the list for our next trip!

Page 15

Gem-A Conference 2014 Gem-A will host its internationally acclaimed annual conference from Saturday 1 – Tuesday 4 November. Welcoming a host of world-renowned speakers and delegates from across the globe, and with a reputation for tackling the most innovative and contemporary gem-related topics in the trade, this event is not to be missed!

SATURDAY 1 AND SUNDAY 2 NOVEMBER

Gem-A Conference Business Design Centre, Islington, London After a century-long absence, Gem-A returns to the former Royal Agricultural Hall, today known as the Business Design Centre, and WKH VLWH RI WKH ÀUVW HYHU *HP $ *UDGXDWLRQ &HUHPRQ\ LQ 5HJLVWUDWLRQ DQG WHD DQG FRIIHH ZLOO FRPPHQFH DW RQ ERWK GD\V DQG WKH &RQIHUHQFH ZLOO FORVH DW RQ 6DWXUGD\ DQG RQ 6XQGD\ Saturday 1 November speakers

Sunday 2 November speakers

Bruce Bridges 7KH KLVWRU\ RI 7VDYRULWH DQG OHJDF\ RI &DPSEHOO %ULGJHV

Craig Lynch GG 7KH UHFRYHUHG MHZHOOHU\ RI RMS Titanic

Edward Boehm GG CG $QDO\]LQJ JHPV RQ WKH JR WLSV IURP WKH ÀHOG

Dr Laurent Cartier FGA $Q XSGDWH RQ ZRUOGZLGH FXOWXUHG SHDUO SURGXFWLRQ

Dr Thomas Hainschwang FGA The challenges faced by green to greenish blue diamonds FRORXUHG E\ QDWXUDO RU DUWLĂ€FLDO LUUDGLDWLRQ

Chris Smith FGA 5XE\ DQG VDSSKLUH VRXUFH Âł W\SH FODVVLĂ€FDWLRQ DQ REMHFWLYH DSSURDFK WR KHOS PDNH FRXQWU\ RI RULJLQ GHWHUPLQDWLRQV more consistent

Alan Hart FGA DGA *HPV DW WKH 1DWXUDO +LVWRU\ 0XVHXP D UHYLHZ DQG D forward look Dr Ulrich Henn 7KH GLIIHUHQW W\SHV RI PRRQVWRQH Brian Cook 3DUDtED WRXUPDOLQH DQ XSGDWH Bahia golden rutilated quartz: an introduction Vincent Pardieu GG From Jedi to Windex: a quest to the origins of the ultimate UHG DQG EOXH VSLQHOV

Dr Menahem Sevdermish FGA )XUWKHU GHYHORSPHQWV LQWR GLJLWDO FRORXU DQDO\VLV JUDGLQJ SULFLQJ DQG WUDGLQJ RI JHPV Terry Coldham FGAA $XVWUDOLDQ VDSSKLUH ³ D IRUJRWWHQ IRXQGDWLRQ VWRQH RI Thailand’s gemstone industry Richard Hughes FGA Heretical gemmology

SATURDAY 1 NOVEMBER (EVENING)

Gem-A Conference Dinner Business Design Centre, Islington, London Saturday’s programme will be followed by a drinks reception commencing at 18:45.

Delegates will then be seated at 19:30 for a delicious three-course dinner. Relax and enjoy the company of friends old and new. Dress code is smart/casual.

MONDAY 3 NOVEMBER

Seminars Gem-A Headquarters, Ely Place, London Two practical seminars will take place at Gem-A Headquarters in London.

Guest seminar hosts: Richard Drucker FGA GG, President of GemWorld International Inc. Coloured stone grading and pricing workshop Mikko Ă…strĂśm FGA and Alberto Scarani GG, GemmoRaman Gemmological applications of Raman and photoluminescence spectroscopy

MONDAY 3 NOVEMBER (EVENING)

Graduation Ceremony and Presentation of Awards Goldsmiths’ Hall, London, 18:30 – 21:00 (Registration opens from 18:00) Graduates of the Gemmology Diploma and Diamond Diploma and their family and/ or friends are invited to attend the 2014 Graduation Ceremony and Presentation of Awards.

Guest speaker: Tim Matthews FGA DGA CEO of Jewelry Television (JTV)

TUESDAY 4 NOVEMBER

Private visit to the mineral collection at the Natural History Museum Natural History Museum, London Hosted by Alan Hart FGA DGA, Head of Collections and Mineralogy Collections

Global ethical challenges within the industry Gem-A Headquarters, Ely Place, London Seminar with Greg Valerio, founder of CRED Jewellery and co-founder of Fair -HZHOOHU\ $FWLRQ 9LYLHQ -RKQVWRQ WUDLQHG JROGVPLWK DQG IRXQGHU RI )LĂ€ %LMRX[ DQG Dana Schorr, Schorr Marketing and Sales.

Images (opposite page and top) courtesy of Business Design Centre.

To book contact events@gem-a.com or visit our website at www.gem-a.com/news--events/gem-a-conference-2014.aspx Major sponsor

Sponsor

Supporters

Associate Supporters

IJL 2014 Now in its new venue at Olympia, IJL 2014 is sure to get attendees talking.

As proud supporters of the show, Gem-A will be joining a host of manufacturers, suppliers, associations and trade bodies for a three-day jewellery extravaganza in the famous London landmark from 31 August – 2 September 2014.

31 AUG – 2 SEPT 2014

OLYMPIA LONDON

Gem-A at IJL As in previous years, Gem-A will offer two free hands-on seminars (this year’s ones entitled ‘Spectacular Spectrums’ and ‘Fifty Shades of Colour’ to excite your taste for gemstones.

The team will be on hand at stand J31 to discuss our world-class education and membership services. Gem-A Instruments will also be available for visitors to purchase instruments and books.

We will also be searching for the next winner of our Gem Empathy Award — presented to a company or individual demonstrating knowledge, enthusiasm and flare for coloured gems, and whose jewellery shows captivating use of them.

Gem-A Seminars ‘Spectacular Spectrums’ 31 August 2014 11:00 – 12:00, London Room With Andrew Fellows FGA DGA and Claire Mitchell FGA DGA. From the common to the unusual, you will be guided through the correct techniques for successful absorption spectra observation, as well as associated problems and pitfalls. This hands-on workshop will cover spectroscope models, best practices with correct illumination, use of additional filters and successful interpretation of results.

‘Fifty Shades of Colour’ 2 September 2014, 13:00 – 14:00, London Room With Andrew Fellows FGA DGA and Lizzie Gleave FGA DGA. The highly popular seminar is back: discover the hidden world of colour within gemstones. Prepare yourself for a colourful time testing gemstones, and seeing the range of shades and tones of colour that exist within everyday gems.

Come and see the colours your brain doesn’t want you to see!

Gem Empathy Award Do you have what it takes to win?

The Gem Empathy Award is presented to the IJL exhibitor displaying, in the opinion of the judges, a single piece or collection of jewellery that makes captivating use of one or more gemstones.

Gem-A’s criteria for the award includes accurate and honest descriptions and disclosure, as well as creativity, imagination and attractiveness. To be considered for the Gem Empathy Award please email your company name and stand number to: elaine@gem-a.com The winning exhibitor will receive: • A free full-page advertisement in Gems&Jewellery magazine (included in The Jeweller magazine) • A free place on a Gem-A one-day workshop or free attendance at the 2014 Gem-A Conference to be held on Saturday 1 and Sunday 2 November at the Business Design Centre, Islington.

Exclusive IJL offers Gem-A Instruments offers two exclusive discounts at IJL this year.

15% off all Renee Newman books Renee’s Exotic Gems series are useful guides for all gemmologists, covering history, lore, geographic sources, and identifying properties of lesser-known gems.

A must for any professional gemmmologist’s library.

Gem-A Rechargeable LED 10× Loupe • This handy instrument is perfect for use in the office or out and about at trade shows.

• Portable; one hour of charge gives 30 mins of light • Can be used in the office — gives continuous light when plugged in via mains or USB Price: Normally £45 + VAT

Show special only £36 + VAT

Education offers Students signing up at IJL for any Daytime* Gemmology course will receive the Gem-A LED Travelgem Microscope for ONLY £225 (usually £426, excluding P&P). *Daytime courses include: Blended Learning, Daytime Gemmology Foundation, Daytime Gemmology Diploma

Offers only available during IJL, 31 August – 2 September.

For more information on IJL 2014 you can visit the IJL Website (http://www.jewellerylondon.com). Alternatively you can keep tabs on the lead-up to the show via the IJL hashtag: #IJL2014.

Come and visit us on our stand at IJL!

J31

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Gem and Jewellery History

The mystery of the Nur al-‘Ayn diamond The Nur al-‘Ayn is one of the most important and mysterious gems in the crown jewels of Iran. With no historical accounts of the stone in existence, its story is a mystery. Anna Malecka investigates whether the stone really was cut and polished in Persia during the Qajar dynasty, and traces its route through history.

The Nur al-‘Ayn (also written as Noor-ul-Ain), or ‘The Light of the Eye’, is an oval pink brilliant-cut diamond of approximately 60 ct (the weight of the stone is impossible to calculate exactly without removing it from its holder), making it one of the largest pink diamonds in the world, and is one of the most important gems among the crown jewels of Iran. It is set in a platinum tiara adorned with white, yellow and pink diamonds, which is housed in the Treasury of National Jewels in Tehran, Iran. This is a modern creation, made by the famous American jeweller Harry Winston in 1958 for the wedding of Mohammad Reza Shah Pahlavi and Farah Diba. The Nur al-‘Ayn first ignited the interest of Western researchers

in the 1960s. According to V.B. Meen and A. Douglas Tushingham, the Canadian gemmologists who analyzed the gem at the time, the stone is part of the famous historic diamond which appeared on the market in Golconda, India, in 1642. This stone, known as the ‘Great Table’, was described in the work of Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, the famous French diamantaire and explorer of India. Tavernier described the weight of the Table as 176 1/8 of a mangelin, which is around 248 metric ct (Tavernier, 1681). In fact, according to credible accounts by gemmologists, the gem weighed over 300 ct. A second, much larger fragment of the Table is the Darya-ye Nur, or ‘Sea of Light’ diamond, weighing

The Nur al-‘Ayn set in a platinum tiara with white, yellow and pink diamonds, housed in the Treasury of National Jewels in Tehran, Iran. Photo copyright The Royal Ontario Museum.

Page 20

around 185 ct, which also currently resides in the Treasury of National Jewels, Tehran.

Having established the origin of both stones, Meen and Tushingham set to wondering what circumstances may have led to the Great Table being divided (Meen and Tushingham, 1968). They speculated that it may have been in Iran shortly before 1834, when the Darya-ye Nur was inscribed with the name of Persia’s ruler, Fath Ali Shah.

They also accepted that the Light of the Eye may have been created many years later.

The cutting of this gem also bothered Lord Ian Balfour, the famous writer on historic diamonds, who maintained that this stone may have been prepared during the reign of Naser-al-din Shah of Persia.

Balfour did not offer anything to back up this assumption, other than mentioning that during the reign of this ruler there were cutting workshops at court, where the stones he acquired in Europe were processed (Balfour, 2009).

Comments which appear in literature concerning the creation of the Nur al-‘Ayn are therefore based on speculation, which as far as I know has not been scrutinized on the basis of primary sources. My aim here is to verify these views and establish the true circumstances of the cutting of this diamond, one of the most important in the Persian treasury.

It is highly probable that the Great Table, from which the Nur al-‘Ayn gem was taken, came into the possession of the Indian rulers of the Great Mughal dynasty as

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Gem and Jewellery History

early as the seventeenth century. In 1739, the Indian subcontinent was invaded by Persia’s Nader Shah, who transported the contents of Delhi’s treasury back to the ‘Land of the Aryans’. Contrary to the version of events accepted in some works on the topic, the Great Table was not among the valuables (Lee, 2006).

Tehrani, an eighteenth-century Persian author, supports this by stating that the king’s loot included a diamond called Nur al-‘Uyun, or the ‘Light of the Eyes’ (Tehrani, AH 1349). This opinion was shared by nineteenth-century Turkish chronicler Ahmed Cevdet Pasa who claimed, on the basis of

Drawing of the Great Table

by Jean-Baptiste Tavernier.

testament by a historian from the previous century, that Nader Shah brought the Nur al-‘Ayn diamond from India, weighing almost 60 ct, and that it then served to decorate his dagger (Cevdet Pasa, 1972-1974; Kesbî, 2002). This would suggest that the Great Table must have been divided up at the Mughal court even before the Persians invaded.

It is also probable that the Mughal lapidaries had cut the major part of the Great Table, Darya-ye Nur. During the two-month Persian occupation of Delhi, the separation of the gem in question would not be possible since it would have required at least 12 weeks of work.

In 1747, the Shah (the then new owner of the Light of the Eye) was murdered.

According to Cevdet Pasa, at the moment Nader was killed, the stone was under the supervision of the royal treasurer, after whose death it passed into the possession of various Persian nobles.

One of them informed a visiting merchant from Istanbul that the diamond’s current owner, who had taken possession of it by

violent means, intended to sell the stone.

However, due to the nobles’ opposition to such valuable items being taken out of Persia, these plans were kept secret.

The Istanbulite informed the officials of the Ottoman court about the opportunity to acquire the stone, and they took the decision to have it brought to their capital where it was presented to Sultan Selim III for inspection. The monarch ordered the purchase of the diamond, which involved five months of negotiations resulting in the initial price being reduced from around 4.1 to 1.6 tonnes of pure silver, or 1500 and 600 purses of akçe respectively — the chief monetary unit of the Ottoman Empire. The stone was then worked on in the brilliant-cut fashionable among the Ottoman elites of the time.

I have not found any mention of the gem in texts referring to the Turkish treasury during the reign of Selim III. Since it is certain that in 1834 the Nur al-‘Ayn belonged to Fath Ali Shah (the earliest information I have found about it in Qajar sources), then at some point between the end of the eighteenth century and that date it must have returned, possibly as a gift, from the Ottoman court to Persia (Rida Quli Mirza, AH 1373).

It is worth mentioning that the craftsmen who Selim III employed as diamond cutters to prepare the stone in question were Westerners (Cevdet Pasa, 1972–1974). As Europeans and thus the inventors of the art of diamond cutting, they were considered by the entire Islamic world to be the greatest specialists in the industry. They were operating in Muslim courts from the first quarter of the sixteenth century at the latest. However, due to the policy conducted by western commercial companies to protect the mass export of European-cut diamonds eastwards, attempts by oriental royals to employ such specialists were generally extremely difficult and painstaking, and not always successful (Uzunçarsili, 1981; Heeringa, 1910–1952).

Similar problems were encountered by the envoys of Selim III, who were entrusted with employing European diamond workers.

After a long search, these emissaries

managed to engage two French experts; a certain Monsieur Lison, a Parisian, as well as an unnamed cutter (Jamgocyan, 1990). As there were no other ‘Frankish’ cutters working at that court, it must have been these men who cut the Light of the Eye in the 1790s.

However, it is worth noting that according to Cevdet Pasa, the Nur al-‘Ayn weighed about 60 ct before the processing, whereas the titular gem reached this weight only after its cutting. The same author also mentioned that the stone in question was to be “pyramid-shaped in the uncut form”.

This, to put it mildly, is not the most precise term to describe the shape of the fragment left after cutting off the Darya from the Great Table. We should also add that the seller of the Light of the Eye bought another rough diamond in Iran which, after cutting in Holland, weighed 20 ct and was also purchased by Selim III. The Nur al-‘Ayn diamond, then, was not cut in Persia around 1834, but at the Ottoman court approximately 40 years earlier. As far as I know, this stone, which has belonged to the Iranian treasury continuously since the first half of the nineteenth century, is the only surviving and documented evidence of the 400 years of Western diamond cutters’ presence at Muslim courts.

Portrait of Selim III by John Young, 1815.

Page 21

Gems&Jewellery / Aug/Sept 2014

Gem and Jewellery History

The mystery of the Nur al-‘Ayn diamond (cont.)

Acknowledgements I wish to thank Scott Sucher, the American master cutter specializing in producing replicas of historic diamonds, for the notes on the weight of the Great Table and time required to complete the separation of the gem. I also wish to express my gratitude to Professor Sevket Pamuk of the London School of Economics for providing me with the information that enabled conversion of akçe into the metric system.

Bibliography Balfour, I., 2009. Famous Diamonds, 5th edn. Antique Collectors’ Club, Woodbridge, 84–85.

Cevdet Pasa A., and Çevik, M. (ed.), 1972–1974. Tarih-i Cevdet: Tarih-i vekayi-i Devlet-i Aliye, vol. 6, Sabah, Istanbul., 138–139.

Page 22

Heeringa, K., 1910–52. Bronnen tot de geschiedenis van den Levantschen handel, part 4. M. Nijhoff, Gravenhage, 488-89.

Jamgocyan, O., 1990. La Révolution française vue et vécue de Constantinople (1789–1795), Annales historiques de la Révolution française, (279–282) 467.

Kesbî, M., and Ögreten, A. (ed.), 2002.

Ibretnümâ-yı devlet : tahlil ve tenkitli metin, Turk Tarih Kurumu Basımevi, Ankara, 504–505.

Lee, J., 2006. Crown of Venus: A Guide to Royal Women Around the World, Writers Club Press, Lincoln, 49.

Meen, V.B., and Tushingham, A.D., 1968.

Crown Jewels of Iran. Toronto University Press, Toronto, 28.

Rida Quli Mirza and Farmanfarma i Qagar, A. (ed.), AH 1373. Safarnama-ye Rida Quli Mirza nayib al-iyala : nawa-ye Fath ‘Ali Shah, Danisgah-i Tihran, Tihran, 5.

Tavernier, J.B., 1681. Les six voyages de Jean Baptiste Tavernier, chevalier Baron d’Aubonne, qu’il a fait en Turquie, en Perse, et aux Indes, vol. 2, Gervais Clouzier, Paris, 305.

Tehrani, M. Šafi ; Rida Ša’bani, (ed.), AH 1349. Tarikh-e naderšahi: Nadernama, Bunyad-e Farhang-e Iran, Tihran, 238.

Uzunçarsili, I. H., 1981. Osmanli sarayinda Ehl-i hiref (Sanatkârlar) defteri, Belgeler (11) 15, 35.

Gemmology The Journal of

Join the evolution Issue 2 of the redesigned Journal is out now

Published in collaboration with the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF), The Journal is at the forefront of gemmological news and research, allowing you to keep up-todate with gemmology and ensuring your continuous professional development.

Feature Articles

Gemmological Briefs

Evolution of Diamond Cuts in Portuguese Jewellery and Sacred Objects During the 16th–18th Centuries: A Brief Review (Rui Galopim de Carvalho) Beryllium-Diffused Corundum in the Japanese Market, and Assessing the Natural vs.

Diffused Origin of Beryllium in Sapphire (Kentaro Emori, Hiroshi Kitawaki and Makoto Okano)

Practical Gemmology emmology Spinel masquerading qu ading as taaff taaffeite or sapphirine

A Rare 100+ ct Jeremejevite Some Characteristics of Taaf Taaffeite from m Myanmar Natural Pearls from Edib Edible ‘True Oysters’ in Zeeland, The Netherlands erland

Gem Notes Andradite from Arizona, U USA | Bobdownsite e| Orange lizardite te | Large q quartz from Arkansas, ansas USA | Gold-included nclude quartz a crystal ystal | TTucson cs gem show raritiess | P Pastell gre green een sapphir sapphire | S Sapphire with large spe spessartine tine inclusion clu | Tourmaline rm from the Cruzeiro ru Mi Mine, Brazil azil | Natur Natural diamond showing a ‘synthetic’ ‘synthe pattern n in the D DiamondView | Beryl triplets plets imitating emerald ald | G Glass imitation of tanzanite ite | Synthetic ruby doublet oub | Corundum ZLWK FRORXUHG OHDGJODVV ÀOOLQJV _ '\HG ODEUDGRULWH XUH '

Also featuring: What’s New | Gem-A Notices | Learning Opportunities | Conferences New Media | Literature of Interest ™

Business Support: Insurance |

Unravelling Shareholder Protection Insurance Not everybody stops to seriously consider what might happen if a business co-owner died, or became seriously ill or incapacitated in some way and unable to continue working. Steve Clemence of TH March asks “Have you?”. o you run a family business? Perhaps you have shareholders who work alongside you, bringing specific skills and expertise that contribute to the success of the business. Would it (indeed could it) survive if suddenly a certain key individual were no longer there?

It’s one thing to plan who will own and run your business in the future when you retire or exit from your business, it’s quite another to have a contingency plan in place.

Just as an individual should have a will that sets out what will happen to their estate on death, your business should have a ‘Corporate Will’ that sets out what happens if a shareholder dies. Unless the correct agreements are in place to specify what happens to the shares following death, your wishes (as the business owner) may not be met.

In January 2013 Legal & General commissioned research to establish the ‘Business Protection Gap’. It revealed that six out of 10 business owners had no protection in place to cover the cost of purchasing shares should a business owner or shareholder die.

should the worst happen, the remaining shareholders stay in control of the business.

If critical illness is covered, the critically ill shareholder will have the choice to exit the business and receive their share as a lump sum payment.

What is Shareholder Protection?

In the event of a shareholder dying, falling terminally or critically ill, Shareholder Protection can provide a sum of money to the remaining shareholders. This means that, in the event of a valid claim, the policy could pay out an amount sufficient to purchase the deceased or critically ill shareholder’s interest in the business.

How much do I cover?

How much are your shares worth? This is a difficult question to answer, but a valuation method needs to be established, probably with the assistance of your accountant.

D

Why do I need it?

The loss of a shareholder, particularly if they are a working director, may destabilise the business and can quickly lead to financial difficulties. Shareholder Protection means that

Who takes out the policy?

At TH March we would expect to work with your professional advisers to make sure any advice given doesn't go off at a tangent to what your accountant or solicitor would recommend. There are different ways of providing Shareholder Protection and a lot will depend on what your company's Articles of Association stipulate.

A common arrangement is where each shareholder takes out cover held in trust for the remaining shareholders(s) and has what is known as a cross option agreement, drawn up by solicitors. Your accountant should be involved to make sure that business property relief isn't lost.

Many accountants prefer a Company Share Buyback Scheme. On the death of a shareholder (if the Articles of Association allows for this) the business will repurchase the available shares from the estate of the deceased shareholder. The business takes out the insurance. On buying the shares they are then cancelled, which increases the value of the remaining shares.

What about tax?

It always seems complicated. It is important, so normally we work with your other professional advisers to make sure the cover is set up in the right way for your business.

Plans to cover company ownership will not meet the criteria for relief from corporation tax on the premiums. Therefore payment of the sum assured for a term assurance plan should not be classed as a trading receipt and so is unlikely to suffer corporation tax.

Rest assured we will explain what actions you need to take, but we would normally refer you to your accountant for tax advice.

What about health?

Expect to fill in a medical questionnaire, also that your insurer will ask your GP for a report. In many cases you will be asked to attend a full medical. These are normally paid for by the insurer. If you have any existing medical conditions or have suffered any in the past it’s your duty to disclose them. But don’t let this put you off considering cover because we always talk to the underwriters on your behalf. Also bear in mind that many people will have (or will have had) similar medical conditions and underwriters have a huge amount of experience in dealing with most of what can affect us as human beings.

Surprisingly affordable You’ll be surprised how little Shareholder Protection can cost for a very large sum assured and there will be a solution to fit your budget. For more information contact TH March’s Chartered Financial Planner, Steve Clemence, on 01822 855 555.

The Voice of the Industry 39

The Voice of the Industry is louder than ever...

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Did Orl ov buy the Orl ov?

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as Gem-A members (gem and diamond dealers, designers and gemmologists)?

‘The Jeweller’ is the only publication that you need to target the people that you want to do business with.

With relevant editorial features and a more competitive rate card than our rivals, ‘The Jeweller’ magazine should be your first choice for targeting the UK jewellery and watch industry.

THE JEWELLER MAGAZINE (incorporating Gems & Jewellery Magazine) Circulation: 6,000 Readership: 25,000+

To advertise in the magazine contact sales director Ian Francis on tel: +44 (0) 20 7749 1705 or email: ian@jewellers-online.org For subscriptions call Amanda White at the NAG on tel: +44 (0) 20 7613 4445 or email: thejewellersubs@jewellers-online.org

Show Preview | show will also feature the innovative pieces by the winners in the five categories of IJL’s Editor’s Choice competition: Sarah Jayne Smyth, Angela O’Keefe, Kasun London, Chrysalis and Saxons of Oxford. Just to underscore the show’s international flavour, the winners hailed from South Africa, Bulgaria, The Netherlands, Greece and Ireland… as well as England.

Charms for Charity Ramping up the celebratory feel a notch or two further, will be a pretty glitzy charity auction in aid of Breast Cancer Care. Not only will there be pieces donated by exhibitors – Fei Liu’s Cascade pendant being one notable example – but also a very special, sterling silver charm bracelet created by members of the British Jewellers Association (shown bottom left) who gave their time and materials free specially for the occasion.

The piece, which has been designed and crafted by Sarah Jordan (with links cast by Hockley Mint), features eight one-off charms from designers Alexander Davis, Tomasz Donocik, Andrew Geoghegan, Sarah Jordan, Shaun Leane and Linda Macdonald, as well as two designers who won a BJA

31 AUG – 2 SEPT 2014

OLYMPIA LONDON

Image courtesy of Caliz – see p44

New Sensation!

It looks set to be one helluva house-warming party as IJL welcomes visitors to its new home at Olympia at the end of the month. While it might be business as usual, the organisers are ensuring that the event will provide a feast for the senses… new venue for an exhibition of IJL’s standing is bound to create a buzz. It will certainly be, as one jeweller pointed out, a major draw for retailers who are intending to visit the show. But just in case a shiny new home isn’t – on its own – enough by way of temptation, the organisers Reed Exhibitions have a bumper line-up of new features, exhibitors, seminars and events for the three-day show.

A

Arguably the most pertinent is that for the first time IJL will open its doors for an extra hour’s trading. Late Night Shopping will take place on Sunday 31st when visitors and exhibitors can continue to do business until 7pm. In fact think of it as a sort of housewarming party, as there will be live music and Champagne from 5pm and the evening will also include a Red Carpet Runway, with an exclusive eveningwear scene. The catwalk

IJL – all you need to know at a glance • 550+ exhibitors including international pavilions • Late Night Shopping: Sunday 31st August (until 7pm) • New features: Pavilions from Hong Kong, Ireland and Portugal; Champagne Bar and English Tea Room • Three days of insightful seminars and Advice Clinics • IJL Runway • Support programmes and awards: KickStart, Bright Young Gems, F Hinds High Street by Design, Gem Empathy Award, GCDC Award Venue: Olympia Grand, Hammersmith Rd, Kensington, London W14 8UX Date: 31st Aug – 2nd Sept 2014 Opening times: Sun: 9am – 7pm; Mon: 9am – 6pm; Tuesday: 9am – 5pm Free registration for members of the jewellery trade – if done prior to the show you can save £25.

Visit: jewellerylondon.com/register

The Voice of the Industry 41

| Show Preview competition to design charms for the piece: Samantha Rose of September Rose and Natalie Towell of Navette Jewellery.

Speaking about the completed bracelet, Sarah Jordan said: “I could not be more delighted with how this has turned out. I am blown away with how they all sit together so amazingly well. Each charm has real meaning and I feel sure that there will be many, many people out there who would love to own it. Not simply because it is a real one off, unique bracelet but because by doing so they will be helping a truly worthwhile cause.”

Seminars & Advice Once back to business IJL has much to offer those retailers who are able to prise themselves off the stands. Making their debut this year will be the Advice Clinics,

Ring by Angela O’Keefe, a winner in IJL’s Editor’s Choice competition

supported by the National Association of Goldsmiths. This is your chance to speak on a one-to-one basis with industry experts covering subjects as varied as family succession and retail security. See page 19 for further details of the free half-hour sessions, or visit IJL’s website.

And should your knowledge need to be expanded further, the seminar programme covers a wide range of topics, from the standing room only Rapaport Diamond Industry Overview, to Corporate Social Responsibility and selling on-line. A major draw this year is certain to be Nicholas

42 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Wainwright, chairman of Boodles, who will be talking about how a county jeweller grew to be an internationally renowned brand, which featured recently in a Channel 4 documentary. Another keynote speaker will be Jo Fairley, the co-founder of ethical chocolate business Green & Black’s – another growth-of-brand story… and with a topical CSR twist. The full (and very packed) schedule of seminars is also available on the IJL website.

Newcomers & KickStarters If you do intend to take advantage of the seminars, you’ll have to plan your time carefully as there are also the aisles to cover of course. Among the 550 or so exhibitors there are around 150 newcomers to the event. Some will be on the regular KickStart stand (S10) and they include this year’s ‘People’s Choice’ winner Kristjan Eyjolfsson Fine Jewellery whose customisable collections are made from sustainablysourced gold, silver, platinum and precious gems. The other KickStarters for 2014 are: Agnieszka Maksymiuk Jewellery, Cara Tonkin, Cardinal of London, Charlotte Valkeniers, Jeanne Marell, Keep Me Jewellery, Majdan Rocks, Rosie May Jewellery and SophieAliceHirsch Jewellery.

As well as globally-renowned brands and designers showing for the first time, IJL has also attracted a few new national pavilions this year. AORP will be bringing a taste of Portugal – with names like Gabriela Styliano and Mimata; five designers will be showcasing their work in the Ireland Cork pavilion and the Hong Kong Manufacturers’ Association will be hosting a pavilion displaying the collections of 19 fine jewellery companies.

Other names to look out for are Vendome

Fei Liu’s Cascade pendant donated to the auction in aid of Breast Cancer Care.

Paris, Artic Circle, C6 by Anne Cohen, Endless Jewelry, MaeVona, Aurum, Ingenious and O.W.L Watches… to name just a few.

And as always, the Designer Brands area, showcasing fine and contemporary jewellery, is a key feature of the show – unmissable if you’re looking for the most directional, innovative collections. The lineup this year includes: Babette Wasserman, Dennis & Lavery, Dower & Hall, Fei Liu, Katie Rowland, Molly Brown, Oak Fine Jewellery, C6 by Anne Cohen from Denmark, Sarah Ho/SHO, Rachel Galley, Sheila Fleet, Sophie Harley and Tezer, a silver brand from Germany. And for an overview of Summer 2015 trends there’s also the Runway catwalk shows – take a notebook (and have yourself a well-earned breather!).

Save us a seat!

Come and visit the N.A.G. at IJL! • This year sees the inaugural Advice Clinics, which have been sponsored by the N.A.G. The drop-in clinics are designed to give visitors and exhibitors the chance to speak to experts from a diverse range of business disciplines, on a one-to-one basis during the show. See p19 for further information or visit wwwjewellerylondon.com/en/whats_on/advice-clinic • A long-standing supporter of IJL, the Association xwill, of course, have a strong presence at the show. Please do visit us on our stand (K30) where you can meet the team.

• Members of the Education Department will be on-hand to talk to you about all your training needs and the many courses and seminars that we offer.

• You can also learn more about the myriad new benefits (as well as the existing advantages) that are now available to members of the Association.

Visit us at IJL, Boulevard, Stand E70

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| Show Preview

Look Book The Newcomers From the line-up of emerging talent on the KickStart stand to a host of established designers and brands, IJL has enticed a very healthy number of new exhibitors this year.

Here’s our pick of the crop…

Endless

The key colour trends for Autumn have been chosen by Endless Jewelry for it new line of leather bracelets. Sumptuous tones of crimson, deep plum, midnight blue and mustard are among the 12 shades available. Each is available in three different lengths, allowing for a single strand or double or triple-wrap bracelets. A variety of charms (over 450 of them) in silver or gold finishes, allow for further customisation.

Stand L20

AmiAnna

Apergi

Apergi is a new company created by Xaris Apergi, an architect, engineer and sculptor.

All her designs are inspired by nature, architecture and mathematics, especially the use of the Golden Section. Designs are voluminous but very light to the eye; the result of traditional techniques combined with the latest technology.

Stand P55

Launched last year by former jewellery retailer Raji Ashwin, AmiAnna will showcase distinctive sterling silver and gold vermeil, wire-wrapped pieces adorned with coloured stones. Alongside the earlier ‘Entwined’ pendants, will be the new ‘Blaze’ and handmade ‘Ravish’ collections.

Stand S78

Artic Circle

Arctic Circle diamonds are mined in Canada and set in gold supplied by the Royal Canadian Mint. Meeting the requirements of the Kimberley Process, every stone can be traced back to the mine of origin, each of which maintains stringent guidelines in order to protect the ecosystems of the area.

This includes controls of water use, limits on emissions and respect for wildlife.

Stand B21

44 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Caliz London See main image on p41 Designer Martha Lizarazo will introduce her innovative and vibrant collection handcrafted from vegetable ivory, a natural and ethical alternative to elephant ivory.

Her new line, The Roots Collection has developed as a result of her love of fashion and the natural materials of her native Colombia. This season she is inspired by exotic Latin-American flora.

Stand Q54

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Raw Pearls

Ingenious

Inspired by tri-colour Russian wedding bands (representing faith, hope and love) and the craftsmanship of 19th century goldsmiths, the Ingenious line by Emma Gee is made in sterling silver with gold plating and set with cz stones. The limited edition line of rings, earrings and necklaces ultilise spherical shapes suspended within one another, creating a feeling of lightness.

Stand F79

A sponsor at the Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council awards, Raw Pearls is recognised as one of the UK’s leading distributors of fine cultured pearls and pearl jewellery.

The family business, now in its 34th year, provides pearl jewellery and loose pearls at all price points, from quality freshwater to South Sea and Tahitian.

Stand A70

Kate Hamilton-Hunter

The Kate Hamilton-Hunter Studio in North Wales will be exhibiting handmade heritage and vintage-inspired collections. Silver mounts feature strongly – the perfect setting for the colourful vintage and modern tin fragment set within. Also showing will be the Woodland Trust collection with kinetic necklaces, earrings and bracelets with Swarovski crystals and silver hearts.

Stand P74

Manja Jewellery

London-based firm Manja’s gemstone set jewellery is created in rhodium plated sterling silver, in gold vermeil, rose gold plated silver and in black ruthenium plated silver (except for jewellery set with mother-ofpearl and turquoise which do not withstand surface treatments).

Stand P116

O.W.L. Watches

This recently-launched line of fashion-led timepieces is inspired by British heritage – from stately homes and sumptuous fabrics to old church pews and leather-bound books.

Printed metal bracelets, leather-wrapped links and materials like Swarovski crystals, combine with quality movements to create stylish-yet-affordable watches. Stand L31

Harriet Bedford

Among the silver and gold vermeil pieces being shown at IJL is Harriet’s new Ladybird Nemesis collection – two little hand-painted ladybirds zooming around the ‘track’ of a bangle or ring. Also revealed will be the Princess collection of one-off stone set pieces based on her design for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Brooch.

Stand P75

The Voice of the Industry 45

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46 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

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Show Preview |

C6 by Anne Cohen

Named after the chemical symbol for carbon, Danish designer Anne Cohen’s collection of jewellery is composed of carbon in two very different forms – graphite and diamond. The minimalistic designs of wedding rings and other jewellery pieces, give them a modern, yet timeless feel. All settings are placed directly into the carbon fibre, without need for any other materials.

Stand R110

Jeanne Marell (KickStarter)

London-based Jeanne Marell designs and makes minimalist gold and silver jewellery with a twist. Forms are often combinations of simple geometries, and each design combines two materials or finishes and nonprecious materials often feature. The pieces reveal intricate detailing.

Stand: S10d

Inkana

Created by Katie Walker, Inkana is an offshoot of her founding company, Believer Jewellery.

In her search for ‘greener’ gold, Katie uncovered ‘the darker side’ of precious metals, which led her to launch conflict-free jewellery and using Fairtrade metals. The designs are inspired by nature’s numbering system, the Fibonacci.

Stand Q100d

Wolf

WOLF Cub Winders are user-friendly, travel-ready winders. The Module 1.8 is pre-programmed at 900 turns per day rotating bi-directionally. Additionally, these winders can be stored in custom-made Cubbies and can be stacked to create a larger modular unit. This stylish collection of watch winders will appeal to those who have invested in their first automatic watch and to the growing number of female collectors of automatic timepieces.

Stand H49

Look Book The Veterans

Known for its modern, design-led jewellery in stainless steel, tungsten and titanium, Unique’s men’s line has introduced plaited leather with steel elements, for an alternative masculine look. Also being unveiled will be a new line of cufflinks with an emphasis on detail, such as plating, patterns and moving parts.

Stand F60

Fope

Unique Mens

Based on the renowned Fope story of flexible gold, clasp-free bracelets, the latest collection is ‘Wild Rose’ which incorporates strong geometric shapes for a very contemporary, bold look. Each piece in the set (bracelet, necklace, ring and earrings) is set with diamonds that run along the spiky gold rondels.

Stand C21

Story

Story by Kranz & Ziegler has broadened both its wrap bracelet collection and the watch element line for AW14. For the bracelets vibrant new colours are taken from the catwalk (from lilac to lime green) with additional materials and textures to complete the story. For watches a wider face is offered on some styles and more embellishment on others.

Stand E20

The Voice of the Industry 47

| Show Preview

Gecko — Elements Gold

Inspired by pattern and symmetry, the new Elements Gold collection is ultra feminine and has a particular emphasis on the blue palette this season, with azure blue diamonds making their debut. As well as yellow, white and rose 9ct gold are also being used for detailed pieces that have a vintage feel.

Stand E70

Via Seres

Links of London

Following its launch at IJL 2013, Via Seres – inspired by ancient works of art and antiquities – will be showing an expanded range of its premier collection 'Mousai'. The pieces – such as this ‘Larissa’ necklace, are in handmade Bohemian glass, cameos featuring Greco-Roman nymphs, muses and deities, set in sterling silver with coloured, natural diamond slices.

Stand R54

Dennis & Lavery

Links of London’s new Signature collection in rose gold and silver encompasses the renowned linked pendants and the iconic collection is available as bracelets and necklaces. Also being shown will be the watch line, which encompasses 18 ranges of around 200 styles, including four new ranges: Brompton, Richmond, Greenwich and Regent (each taking inspiration from its namesake area). Links’ sister brand, Folli Follie, will also be shown.

Stand E50

Launching three new platinum bridal collections entitled Regalia, Glacier, and Esprit, and with an update to her award-winning Vortex interlocking wedding bands sets, Cindy has a vision for Dennis & Lavery Platinum to be the luxury platinum brand of choice for Britain’s leading

independent retail jewelers. The three new

The new silver and vermeil collection features necklaces, earrings and bracelets featuring original nature-inspired or talismanic motifs.

The range emphasises personalisation, meaning and layering, allowing wearers to customise their own style and look. Each piece is accompanied by a card explaining the design.

Stand Q145

collections, together with previous ranges Metropolis and Elemental, will give the brand a strong design lead across both contemporary and more traditional platinum jewellery styles.

Stand S110

Tankel

Muru

All Tankel’s rings can be supplied in platinum or 18ct gold and as the company’s reputation for supplying excellent value D colour Si diamonds continues to grow, Tankel has now included exciting new ideas in solitaires with pave set shoulders and D colour diamonds. Stand C38

48 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

UPERB V ALUE A DIAMOND SU SUPERB VALUE VA DIAMONDS U E LUE D O DS UP T TO 4.00CTS 4.00C 00C CTS 1 CA CARAT ARA AT SINGLE SINGLE S STONE TONE R RING ING as pr omoted promoted & best selling line in 2013 & 2014

CE CERTIFICATED C E ERTIFIC A AT T TED DI DIAMONDS IA MONDS ATED IAMOND Astonishing value at well below curr current ent market prices.

‘D ‘D’ D’ COLOUR UR SI DI DIAMONDS IAMOND S D COLOU DS at exceptional prices. Supplied as earrings, pendants, 3 stones or single stones, loose or mounted.

See us at IJL Olympia, Stand C38

H.W. Tankel (Scotland) ( ) Ltd,, 33A Gordon Street,, Glasgow g G1 3PF Tel: T e el: 0141 014 226 2200 • Fax: 0141 221 3040 • Email: enquiries@tankel.co.uk www.tankel.co.uk www .tankel.co.uk

| Show Preview

Gecko — Fiorelli Costume

Taking as inspiration folkloric patterns, artisan techniques and opulent textures, the trendled collection features over 100 new designs.

Gunmetal plating is accented by gold as well as Swarovski Elements in ‘black diamond’, giving a darker, mysterious edge to the feminine story.

Stand E70

Fei Liu

Carat*

To be launched at IJL, Serenity is a new collection in 18ct gold with a sterling silver counterpart, inspired by the flow and curves of the smoke of incense. Promoting a calm and peaceful environment, incense has been used for centuries for a variety of purposes and Fei has translated this into curves and waves of gold and diamond, that echo the femininity of the woman wearing them.

Stand R118

Alongside its best-selling cocktail collection, Carat* is due to showcase its most fashion forward jewellery collection yet – an edgy twist on contemporary designs. The sponsor of the inaugural ‘Late Night Shopping Evening’, Carat* will also be showing additions to the ‘Power Pearls’ collection of simulated pearl pieces, marketing and display material.

Stand G20

Lola Rose

Domino

Newly expanded, the Rosabella collection will include diamond necklaces, chandelier earrings and statement bracelets, through to simple studs and one-stone pendants. The line comes in 18ct white, yellow or rose gold and includes 34 new designs, set or unset.

Also on show will be a new capsule collection of mix and match earrings and pendants called ‘Scintillating Diamonds’. Stand D60

50 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Deakin & Francis

Femininity is key, and the fourth collection from Lola Rose Boutique is a blend of strong statement pieces and delicate rings, pendants and bracelets. The Bridget collection of bead bracelets features a number of new stones and colourways. Striking multi-band settings give rings a neo-classical elegance, earrings drip with fringed metalwork while bright pendants and cuffs bring a dash of Studio 54!

Stand R44

Launching at the show is the SS15 Black Spinel collection featuring the Birminghambased cufflink brand’s hallmark skull, as well as sharks, scorpions, spiders and ants.

All in silver with black spinel stones, the scorpion design has moveable legs and pincers, while the shark and spider are set with ruby eyes and the ant has sapphire eyes.

Stand B90

O R K N E Y

D E S I G N E R

J E W E L L E R Y

Tidal

COLLECTION

This design was inspired by the ever moving motion of the tides in the Pentland Firth between Orkney and Caithness.

Flowing interlocking filaments in silver and gold echo the strength and timeless motion of the tide.

Tidal ring shown in three tone gold 9ct yellow, white and rose gold, see our website for matching bangle.

Designed and Made in Orkney, Scotland

www.sheilafleet.com

Katie Rowland

| Show Preview Katie’s new Resort 2015 collection takes its inspiration from Margaretha Geertuida Zelle, a Dutch-born, Parisbased, scandalous exotic dancer and courtsesan who became a double agent during WWl. The dark, strong designs are edgy yet elegant, tough yet luxurious and feature 18ct rose gold vermeil and the introduction of lavender quartz.

Stand S118

Eastern spirituality meets Nordic colours and forest imagery in the new ‘Now’ collection of silver beads, gemstone pendants and leather bracelets. The line will also include two new glass bead kits as well as the Autumn and Halloween ranges from X by Trollbeads, featuring new silver links and the Zip Me lock.

Stand K10

Charlotte Lowe

Trollbeads

Inspired by sentiment and cherished moments, Charlotte Lowe offers a very personal touch to her photo-etched jewellery. The new ‘Handmade Mementoes’ help to turn precious memories into special pieces. Handmade in the heart of England, each photograph is etched into silver before being carefully handcrafted into the jewellery item.

Stand S45)

Bouton

Jana Reinhardt

The new collection was inspired by the feminine floral prints on the catwalks earlier this year – a floral jewellery range in a ‘simply sweet style’. There are bigger showy pieces, like a bangle and bib necklace with lots of plump little stylised flowers randomly joined, as well as smaller, more regular every day pieces.

Stand S40

Donns

This year Leslie Donn celebrates 120 years of supplying the UK jewellery industry.

The offer comprises18ct gold and platinum fine diamond jewellery, coloured stone and gemstone set jewellery, with over 1,000 lines including the new Diamond Pendant and Matching Earring Collections, in five sizes to suit day/evening wear.

Stand C41

52 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Inspired by one of the world’s most ancient, magical symbols, Bouton’s new ‘Honeycomb Collection’ embraces the symmetry and beauty of the hexagon. The hexagonal handset designs with simulated stones are fused together to create earrings, bangle, cuff, pendant and bracelet.

Stand N10

My iMenso

New to the interchangeable coin system collection will be rings, available in sterling silver as well as rose or yellow gold plating – some plain, others set with cz stones. As an alternative to the existing medallion pendant, this year will see smaller pendant designs which allow for up to three elements to be added.

Stand F70

| Show Preview

So Jewellery

So Jewellery has added three new diamond heart pendants set in satin-finished silver, rosegold and yellow-gold, which will be showcasing for the first time at IJL. The diamond jewellery set in silver incorporates designs which are both timeless and contemporary. Each pendant is supplied with an extendable 16/18” rhodium plated cable chain in a presentation box complete with Care Card.

Stand E49

CW Sellors

This Paris-based fashion watch collection, featuring interchangeable NATO straps, follows the jewellery trend for personalisation. New this season are leather straps, which, like the nylon versions, can be switched ‘in a matter of seconds’. The stainless steel watches come in a gift box with one nylon or leather strap. An automatic model with Miyota movement and glass back, joins the Vintage and Sports ranges.

Stand E71

Oxygen

Alongside the Wildlife Trust Collection and the brand’s signature ranges set with British and international gemstones, Derbyshirebased CW Sellors will be showcasing the Flore Collection by Rebecca Sellors. The capsule line utilises the latest technology to create intricate and delicate designs incorporating gemstones, such as Whitby jet. Stand D40

I love a Lassie

London Road

Gecko — Fred Bennett

Another strong offering from this innovative men’s jewellery and watch brand – this season there’s an industrial theme for the pieces in stainless steel, silver and leather. Two new timepieces (one sporty, one business-like) will also be introduced.

Stand E70

54 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

The new Hard-Wear collection will be on show alongside some of the best-selling designs from the brand’s original lines including Antique Lace and Knotted String.

This new range of necklaces, earrings and rings is cast from nuts and nails, glamorising toolbox treasures. Nuts and nails have been formed into chunky designs for fashionlovers looking for bold, edgy jewellery.

Stand P47

Filling the void between branded silver and more traditional 18ct diamond and gem set jewellery, London Road Jewellery will be showing its well-priced, contemporary and colourful collection of gold jewellery. New to the Kew line is the ‘Posy’ collection featuring textured 9ct gold clusters of flower heads; the diamond Portobello range will feature the new ‘Velvet Leaf’ collection and there will also be additions to the Pimlico Bubble signature range.

Stand C29

Show Preview |

Ti Sento

Influenced by the Italian winter and days spent at home with family and friends, the ‘Da Noi’ collection is inspired by elegantly decorated dining tables, the subtle shimmer of a chandelier and candlelit meals. Hand-set crystals in white, black and champagne colours sparkle within jewellery pieces in a range of designs, from more traditional to on-trend fashion statement pieces, all designed to mix-and-match.

Stand E01

Amrapali

Babette Wasserman has created ‘Poison Ivy’ for 2014 – long curved spikes and sparkling cubic zirconias intertwining, with matching show-stopping earrings. She will also be previewing her first diamond range at IJL this year, as well as the new collection of sterling silver jewellery and silver, gold and rose gold vermeil.

Stand R120

Babette Wasserman

The renowned Indian jeweller is introducing it’s new collection, “Dark Maharaja’ – a look back to the battlegrounds of warriors during the Mughal era and influenced by the weapons used. Shapes echo swords, shields and armour and the pieces are set in gold and silver and decorated with rubies (to shield), diamonds and black rhodium. Stand D101

Kleshna

To commemorate the centenary of WW1 Kleshna has launched an exclusive Poppy Brooch and Lapel Pin. The pieces are handmade with a military silken soutache cord and finished with sparkling crystal.

The brooch comes boxed, complete with a provenance card detailing the products.

15 per cent from each sale goes to The Royal British Legion Trading. Stand Q110

The Peers Hardy Group will be showing the new Pocket range of timepieces, which is inspired by the concept of ‘pocket art’ – something beautiful can be made in miniature and fit into a pocket. Part Pop-Art and part Dali, this puts time back on the wrist, in the form of an arresting accessory.

Also being shown will be Ice-watch, with a host of new colours and styles and preppystyle Daniel Wellington.

Stand M20

Christopher Designs

Pocket/Daniel Wellington/Ice-Watch

Based in the United States Christopher Designs was founded by jeweller Christopher Slowinski who created the Crisscut® Diamond with its 77 facets. This revolutionary cut is used for emerald shapes, the Crisscut Cushion and, most recently, the round – which has 121 facets. Slowinski is also renowned for his development of invisible settings, for which he uses a special alloy of 18ct gold.

Stand C01

The Voice of the Industry 55

| Show Preview

Buckley

This sleek, modern range was designed to allow the wearer to create their own bespoke combination of versatile stackable pieces. Influenced by the geometric lines seen in the steel and glass of London’s modern architecture, it combines four contrasting plating colours – graphic black and white rhodium are softened by the warmth of yellow and rose gold plates.

Stand N10

De Mexico

New pieces have been added to the flowing and feminine Vita Vitae collection (which was launched at Basel 2014). In 18ct rose gold the delicate earrings, rings and pendants are inspired by hearts and vines. By way of bold contrast, SHO’s POP! bracelets offer a fun, colourful approach to collectible wristwear.

In sturdy rubber they feature silver, yellow vermeil and rose vermeil ‘popper’ details.

Stand R138

Gemex has concentrated on, and invested heavily in, semi-set and complete set engagement rings – aiming to be the market leader in the eternity diamond ring market. A new E-commerce website is expected to be ready before the end of 2014. Showing for the first time is a new sample box of Gemex’s 80 best selling designs – ideal for shop display or wedding shows.

Stand D30

56 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Festina

The strong association with cycling as the official timekeeper of the Tour de France, the Festina watch collection offers a dynamic, sporty look at a very affordable price. The Official Chronograph for the TDF features a steel and rubber strap that echoes the look of a bicycle chain. In contrast the Ceramic models have a refined, feminine appeal and the Classic multifunction watch has a timeless, almost retro look.

Stand E71

LucyQ

Inspired by a crescent moon, the latest collection by Al Coro is in 18ct rose, white or yellow gold combined with diamonds. The highlight of the line is a rose gold bangle, designed in the form of a crescent moon and open at its base – the interior hides a design featuring hearts, stars and moons.

The mezzaluna design is also available as pendant, ring and earrings.

Stand C21

Gemex

This autumn the sterling silver De Mexico line will follow the trend for statement necklaces. However, for the more conservative a wide range of more delicate and classic designs will also be available. Stand Q118

Al Coro

SHO Fine Jewellery

Award-winning jewellery designer LucyQ will unveil her first Couture Collection at the show.

Echoing her Drip Collection, the fluid new line is inspired by nature.

Lucy includes coloured stones and fresh-water cultured pearls in her designs for the first time.

The 10 pieces, available in sterling silver and gold vermeil, include necklaces, pendants, rings, bracelets and earrings.

Stand R70

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Lily & Lotty

The brand will be showcasing its latest ‘Love Letters’ designs from this successful capsule collection. The new messages reflect the international distribution of the collection, and include: ‘je t’aime’, ‘te amo’ and ‘amore’.

The natural and mystical worlds are also represented in the line, with motifs such as snakes, dragonflies and owls.

Stand E80

Engelsrufer Tresor Paris

From workshops in the Florentine hills comes a jewellery collection that was launched 30 years ago by Ugo Cala and Giancarlo Campani. Light and colour are the essential ingredients of each collection, which use diamonds and coloured stones (such as citrine, green tourmaline, peridot, aquamarine and amethyst) set in white and yellow gold, to create pieces that suggest movement and volume without weight. New this season is ‘Vega’, a diamond collection.

Stand C21

58 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Oak Jewellery

Ponte Vecchio Gioielli

Striking a balance between classic and contemporary, Tresor Paris is introducing new collections that incorporate both crystal and diamond, for looks that vary between traditional, vintage-inspired and contemporary.

‘Replica’ fine jewellery makes use of large crystals for bold, statement pieces, while the ‘Metric’ range features more delicate bracelets and necklaces in 18ct gold plate with sparkling crystal. The diamond range range will comprise engagement rings and classic jewellery.

Stand E10

Following its launch at IJL last year the German brand (meaning ‘angel caller’) draws on the desire for symbolic, emotionallycharged jewellery. The collection of colourful sound balls has been extended further to include many new designs: CZ-set, heart shapes, hearts and wings and combinations of different wings and chains. Stand F60

The new Dreamcatcher collection from Oak features painted feathers in bold summer hues, hand-carved shells with bright enamel highlights and intricate dream catcher charms. The pieces in the collection are made in sterling silver with rhodium and yellow or rose gold vermeil details, and chain lengths available are 18 and 32 inch in two different styles.

Stand R128

Kura Jewellery

The collections are inspired by the 2015 jewellery trend directions for abstract/rough edges/organic feel/mix media. This ‘Cage Pendant’ with red spinel insert is set in 14ct rose gold and is the 3D version of Kura’s logo.

Allowing customers to express individuality small charms can be added on to the pendant.

Here it is the red garnet charm with diamonds, in 14ct rose gold.

Stand P76

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| Feature

This year Storm celebrates 25 years of offering fashion-forward watches, jewellery and accessories. Belinda Morris spoke to co-founder and sales and marketing director Anna Lee to discover just how far the brand has travelled in that time.

How did the brand start and when was jewellery introduced?

The first range of watches (following a trial of customised ‘off-the-shelf’ models) was sold under the Time Chain name. They were initially sold in concessions in fashion stores in London and to a few independents.

The Storm brand was launched in 1989 (the idea for the name came after a harrowing plane journey!) and today – as then – Steve Sun (co-founder and chief designer) leads the direction for the watches and jewellery, which was launched in 2002.

Today we have hundreds of stockists in 45 countries, as well as over 30 standalone Storm stores.

Does jewellery follow watches as far as design inspiration is concerned?

There is a distinct correlation between some of the ranges of watches and jewellery – they have the same elements and/or design

features. For example the Elorna watch and Razzle necklace and bracelet both have a hexagonal elevated cut glass dial.

How are the new Premium Black watches selling?

The range is going well, particularly the men’s pieces that are 1000m water resistant – Storm is the only known watch brand to offer such watches at good price points (£169 to £449.99). They are produced to a high spec, with sapphire glass, onyx winders, Swiss movement, diamonds and ceramic.

Has the line introduced Storm to a different type of retail customer?

Yes, it has enabled us to develop business with jewellers that are retailing at the higher end. But it has also helped us to see that the consumer is also happy to pay those price ranges for a Storm watch with a good specification.

Hydroxis – new 25th Anniversary Special Edition model

Will Storm always be defined by wacky/innovative design?

There are a number of pieces within our collection now that feature slim-line casings and bracelets; as a brand we already have a lot of simple plain dials. The low profile watches generally do come over as looking very sleek with a classic feeling about them. But we always like to incorporate the Storm look and feel, or a Storm twist, to all our watches.

Centina – a 2014 ladies’ model

What does 2015 hold in terms of product development?

We have celebrated our 25th anniversary with two special edition watches: the Centina for women and Hydroxis for men.

Our AW14 women’s collection features the Elisa watch with a double wrapped chain and the Swivelle watch featuring a swivel case and Swarovski crystals, which can be worn as a watch or jewellery bracelet.

We have also introduced new coloured dials in green, purple and blue. Our men’s collection includes a special edition Navigator watch including compass and thermometer. We’re also introducing our first automatic Tourbillion watch – no other fashion watch brand currently sells them. For SS15 we plan to introduce lots more innovative, unique and design-led products, so watch this space!

60 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Feature | There are so many other ways for consumers to tell the time – how do you see the future of watches?

Does having strong designs provide immunity to hi-tech developments?

There was a time a few years ago, what with the development of the mass market use of the mobile phone, that watch sales were affected, particularly in the younger sector.

However it’s interesting to see that now things are changing and the desire and need for a watch is driven by having a cool and/or stylish timepiece on your wrist.

Many hi-tech developments tend to be fads – trends for these come and go all the time. And while new technology introductions have had lots of press coverage, and been popular on launch, it’s not always the case that they have seen good sell-through.

We’re design-focussed and believe that there will always be a place for a watch that is innovative and stylish. Fashion and fashion accessories continuously evolve in design and this includes watches, which offer a way for people to express their individuality.

In your view are UK jewellery retailers (who sell watches) becoming more adventurous in their buying?

It depends on the retailer; we have noticed though that more of them have embraced the idea of having fashion watches in their stores, compared to the position say five years ago.

Platinum – one of the first Storm watches

How important are female consumers (as far as watches and jewellery are concerned)?

Female and male consumers are equally important to us. The jewellery in our men’s collection generates very similar numbers to our ladies’, and it is a smaller collection. For watches, value sales account for 55 per cent for our total watch sales. I would say that women overall buy more watches than men as they are using them also as accessories and want to match different outfits.

Storm’s watch designs in particular can be extremely quirky – where does this come from?

Steve’s designs are influenced by his surroundings – he takes inspirations from everyday objects and nature. Having no design experience or formal training has probably been an advantage – it allows him to think freely without restriction.

This combined with his passion and dynamism is seen as one of the reasons behind Storm’s success.

The Voice of the Industry 61

| Feature

Brand Profile Graham 1695 Swiss-based watchmaker Graham 1695 traces its origins to the renowned London clockmaker George Graham – who is considered the father of modern watch-making.

Belinda Morris discovers more about the brand. ollowing the success of its own subsidiaries in Northern Europe, the US and the Far East – where it has recently opened its first boutique in Hong Kong – Graham has just established its own, completely owned, subsidiary in the UK. While Graham has had a presence here previously, by being directly responsible for the brand in the UK, it is easily able to make rapid decisions and work closely with retailers to promote the name.

The company can also take a long-term view of stock-holding and marketing initiatives.

Which is all very handy given that there is quite a story to tell here. Graham’s namesake and inspiration – George Graham – was a man with a passion for new inventions and materials and it’s a passion that has found a 21st century outlet via the man behind the brand – Eric Loth. The Swiss physician and engineer (with a post-grad degree in metallurgy and business administration) worked for a number of companies, including the Swatch Group where he was executive managing director of a product development centre. Watchmaking was set to be his destiny

F

Tourbillon Orrery

62 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

and Loth’s passion for innovation (as well as art) led him inevitably to creating an independent luxury watch brand of his own.

What led him to George Graham, a great inventor of the 17th century and recognised father of the chronograph, was Loth’s desire to discover the difference between a chronograph and a good chronograph;

Eric Loth

Given the heritage of Graham, it was inevitable that the brand should acknowledge one of George Graham’s most renowned achievements – the invention of the Orrery – which celebrated its 300th anniversary last year. The first mechanical solar system model, which astounded the scientific world three centuries back, has been translated –

Eric Loth driving his own car in the Swiss Porsche Cup

between a simple watch and an atypical one.

George Graham provided the answer and in 1994 Graham 1695 was born.

Product development work for the contemporary brand is carried out by taking the basis of George Graham’s achievements and concepts, and translating them – in the broadest sense – to produce unique, modern timepieces. This combination of Swiss know-how and rich British heritage is by no means common within the watchmaking world. Unusual too are the qualifications of Graham’s founder: engineer, designer, watchmaker, salesman and collector.

Changing hats and anticipating trends are all grist to the mill for him.

thanks to 21st century high-technology – to realise haute horology: the tri-dimensional George Graham Tourbillon Orrery With a mechanical movement created by Christophe Claret Manufacture in Le Locle, Switzerland, the Orrery includes the Moon, Earth, Mars and the Sun, based on a 300year calendar. The Sun, represented by an 18ct pink gold hand-engraved Tourbillon bridge with two phoenix heads, echoes the decoration originally used by George Graham.

According to one observer, who saw the watch when it was unveiled at BaselWorld last year: “looking at the dial is like visiting a planetarium”. There are three scales: hours and minutes, Gregorian calendar and zodiac.

Feature | The year counter on the case back enables the wearer to identify corrections for the planets (Moon: seven years, Earth: 1156 years, Mars: 25 years). As Graham points out, this is a watch ‘designed to last a lifetime and longer’. Never mind a watch for the next generation, says one horophile blogger, “this is a watch for the next evolution”.

Sadly for other timepiece aficionados, just 20 of the Tourbillon Orrery watches were built. Fortunately though, Loth’s drive and interest in innovation has seen the company develop many pioneering watches, sure to whet the appetite. Just as his Age of Enlightenment mentor was fascinated by new materials and inventions (George Graham was a vociferous supporter of John Harrison’s work on longitude-measuring instruments), so too is Loth. Today Graham

Chronofighter Oversize Superlight Carbon

Petrol-heads as well as haute horology devotees may well covet a Graham 1695 timepiece – however, it’s that combination of functionality, attention to detail, colour and design that ensures that the appeal is more widespread.

Silverstone RS24 Hour Endurance

has launched a full carbon-lite Chronofighter, which is under 100 grams in weight. Even the buckle is made from carbon!

He might have taken a little while getting his head around the concept, but it’s easy to imagine that the technology-loving Mr Graham would thoroughly approve of another of Loth’s passions – motor racing. A competitive driver himself (taking part in the Swiss Porsche Cup) Loth has been able to bring together two major strands of his life as today Graham is heavily involved with motor racing. Previously time-keeper to Brawn F1 racing, the brand is now time-keeper to the Isle of Man TT, GT Asia and the Califonia/Mexico Baja Desert Classic. As further icing on the cake for

Graham’s founder, one of the friends of the brand – Steve Liquorish – recently won the Porsche Carrera Cup at Le Mans.

Added to this, the Silverstone range complements this racing heritage, with new inventions this year such as the Silverstone RS 24-HR Endurance watch. Cutting edge technology has allowed for a double chronograph function – the main measurement of lap time is operated by a start/stop/reset button which activates the minutes and seconds counting, identifiable with the red rubber catch. The number of lap times that can be

measured is limitless as it functions in an independent manner. And should aesthetics be as important as function, the watch features a stylish tyre-tread rubber strap with red inset, with extra red details on the black dial.

Petrol-heads as well as haute horology devotees may well covet a Graham 1695 timepiece – however, it’s that combination of functionality, attention to detail, colour and design that ensures that the appeal is more widespread. Independent spirits with an appreciation of British flair and heritage might be equally tempted.

George Graham In the view of Sir Isaac Newton, George Graham (1673-1751) was the “foremost watch maker of his age”. Working closely with Sir Edmond Haley, Astronomer Royal at the Greenwich Observatory, Graham was a maker of compass needles, telescopes and equipment to study the stars, and was commissioned to make the first regulator at the Observatory.

In particular he is credited with many important time inventions, such as the dead-beat escapement, mercury pendulum and simplified escapement, and is regarded as the father of the chronograph following the invention of the first lever stopwatch. George Graham also invented the first Orrery (a mechanical model of the solar system), named after Charles Boyle, 4th Earl of Orrery who commissioned the piece, which can now be seen in the Oxford science museum.

The Voice of the Industry 63

| Opinion: John Henn

(My final) postcard from the Kremlin The third (and final) installment of John Henn’s report on the 2014 CIBJO Conference in Moscow, sees Michael Allchin concluding the Precious Metal Commission discussion. ichael finished by explaining that he was out and Stella Leyton, the new CEO of the Birmingham Assay Office, was in. The Commission finished on time, the only one to do so during the Congress – Rule Britannia!.

There were many other commissions on the go – do visit www.cibjo.org to find them – but worth noting is the new Coral Commission, run with help from the people at www.sustainablecoral.org, a new venture to bring this material back from the environmental and commercial abyss.

That evening we were faced with a gala dinner. The massive room was transformed into a Eurovision style venue with stages and catwalks. It was dinner for 400 of the host nation’s jewellery top brass… and us.

The food was going to be challenging all over again, however we were fuelled with ‘Russian Standard Vodka’ so felt no pain.

Then followed act after act of everything you’d imagine Russia could offer – from Cossacks with swords, to pole dancers without poles.

The man who had won Russia’s Got Talent with an electric guitar came on and, after an

M

taxi wanted to collect me at midday for a 5pm flight. Given that the airport was only 40 kms away this seemed a bit excessive, but I was not in a position to negotiate. Back at the venue I had a chat with a very anxious Harry Levy whose visa had run out two days earlier. This, he was assured by Departures at Heathrow, could be a big problem, and by the organisers of the event as a minor one.

As it turned out the following day, Heathrow were better informed – Harry was to be impounded in his hotel, and the following Monday he would be allowed to go (after a lot of classified diplomatic activity) with a fine and a five-year ban on coming back! The moral here is: don't mess with the Kremlin unless you have leverage, and check your visa before you go.

The main morning event – which started late due to an impromptu presentation to Michael Allchin for his efforts in modernising the Metal Commission – was an address from Sectors B (distributors) and C (trade associations and manufacturers), together for the first time. We heard from the CEO of

The man who had won Russia’s Got Talent with an electric guitar came on and, after an extraordinary master class in playing, broke into the theme from The Godfather which, considering the company, was brave. extraordinary master class in playing, broke into the theme from The Godfather which, considering the company, was brave. James Riley from Gem-A spotted it first; I thought it was going to be a medley from Dire Straits but it was classic (I have it on film). He is likely now playing in a Siberian orchestra as I type!

Day three arrived on schedule – the only thing that did at the Congress that day. My

64 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Malca Amit who, with reluctant admiration, talked about the high quality, sophistication and originality of the world’s bandits who ‘nick’ his clients’ goods. Of particular note was the 2013 Brussels Airport loss of $50 million of diamonds when perpetrators cut a hole in the airport perimeter, drove up to the plane destined for Zurich and, in around five minutes, escaped with 120 packages. All were

armed but not a shot was fired. He also mentioned the amount of damage sustained by goods that are badly packed for air transport and encouraged the audience to take note. We also heard from Gay Penfold of the Jewellery Industry Innovation Centre in Birmingham, who could offer training on all aspects of modern manufacturing processes – the Centre’s clients include everyone from start-up business to others with a global presence.

Next was Professor Marylyn Carrigan, from The Centre for Trust and Ethical Behaviour at the Coventry University Business School. She summarised CSR as being “honest, doing no harm, being trustworthy and having a cooperative approach to competitors”. Fail at your peril as social and other media will eat you for breakfast… Vivian Johnson and Greg Valerio continue their work on Fairtrade gold and its beneficial repercussions, and Willie Hamilton talked of his ‘Just Ask’ campaign mentioned earlier.

I had to leave before the end and race back to the hotel to collect my budget return ticket to the airport. The transfer went a lot faster than expected; however, sitting behind a driver who is checking his emails on his poorly-secured giant ‘sat nav’ while listening to Lady Gaga playing Bad Romance, was pretty nerve-wracking. We passed the homes of the masses – block after block, truly ‘battery’ accommodation for humans. Arriving four hours early for my flight gave me plenty to consider: petrol is 52p a litre and if you have a garden you can buy a full sized Cossack on a charging horse. However this is a place with two parallel economies – perhaps not so dissimilar to our own industry. Some of the biggest players without a conscience, make the rules for the rest of us… but sadly don’t feel able to follow these themselves. It is all just about money and power to them.

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The Voice of the Industry 65

| Antique Jewellery

Antique JEWELLERY Beauty in the face of conflict Amy Oliver looks at how the business of decoration didn’t grind to a halt when WWl broke out – in fact, the ‘war to end all wars’ gave rise to surprising jewellery creativity.

Introduction As everyone around the world will know of course, this year marks the hundredth anniversary of the start of World War I, or the Great War as it was then known. On the 4th August this year the British Royal Legion organised ‘Lights Out’ – households and businesses across the UK were plunged into darkness bar a single solitary light, as a sign of remembrance for the fallen, and all those who fought during the conflict. Remembrance services, art exhibitions and a myriad of events are taking place all over the country, and are planned to continue for the next four years.

In light of this, I’ve decided to focus this month on the jewellery of World War I. Not so much the fashions at the time, but the jewellery most closely associated with the war itself. It might seem an unlikely coupling, but jewellery and accessories were being crafted throughout the conflict – by soldiers in the trenches, by troops marching

across countries, and by manufacturers for the war effort. I’ve been able to highlight only a few key examples here, but I hope that even in this limited way I can shed some light on a practically unknown and unconsidered area of jewellery history.

Men had previously carried pocket watches, linked by a chain attached to their clothing.

As you can imagine, carrying around a pocket watch on a battlefield or in the trenches would have been quite inconvenient; rummaging around to pull the watch from a uniform by hands that are covered in mud, sweat and goodness knows what else. And making releasing the catch on the pocket watch difficult doesn’t make for an easy and, more importantly, speedy, time-telling experience.

The wristwatch was the logical solution being easily accessible, with the clock face always to hand (pardon the pun), quick and efficient.

The same goes for pilots – you can’t be fiddling with a watch chain while trying to fly a DH-4. Omega was commissioned to make watches specifically for the British Royal Flying Corps during World War I, and went on to design and manufacture watches for American communications troops. Watches

German eagle coin mounted on brooch

Fashion from practicality It seems strange to say that the Great War led to innovations in the jewellery market, but that’s exactly what happened, though not as a deliberate benefit to the industry.

The main change was in men’s watches.

Watches are an essential part of any jewellery business (arguably more so than ever today), and mostly take the form of wristwatches. But before World War I, watches worn on the wrist were exclusively the preserve of women. They were often made of, or coated in, precious metals and were as much a fashion statement as a timekeeping piece. However, the practicalities of war changed all that.

Aircraft created from a rifle cartridge

for the British pilots were specially designed to handle shocks or impacts, some featuring steel grids over the watch face. They always had a silver- or chrome-plated case, a white enamel dial, and Arabic numerals.

That’s not to say pocket watches were never used; there were many made even for the military. The navy for example had pocket watches and pocket compasses made for serving officers. But warfare necessitated the use of wristwatches for men, and their popularity later rose to the levels we see today, dominating the watch market.

Trench Art Trench Art is a phenomenon which started in World War I. Either to pass the time, as a symbol of war and struggle or as memorabilia

66 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Antique Jewellery | and gifts, soldiers in the trenches would create objects and trinkets from whatever materials were to hand. Smoking gear such as lighters and tobacco tins made from scrap metal were common, as were miniatures of planes, ships and army vehicles carved from wood or again made in scrap metal. There’s even an example of a photo frame being made of special army issue biscuits (perhaps a better use for them). But it wasn’t just nicknacks that were created but jewellery too.

Trench Art jewellery is very niche, and still highly collectable. Soldiers made it for themselves, one another and loved ones back home. The variety of objects, coupled with ingenuity and creativity with which these soldiers crafted the pieces is fascinating.

Necklaces, pendants, brooches, rings, cufflinks and bracelets were all made out of anything and everything available.

Rings were made of industrial metals such as brass, aluminium and steel. Pendants were crafted from discarded bullet cases, coins and reworked scrap metal. Brooches seem to have been a popular choice to make as they were relatively easy to work, again from pieces of scrap, coins and recycled jewellery. The pins themselves were quick to fashion from metal wire used in machinery.

There are examples of bracelets or wristbands being made from larger artillery shell driving bands (these are the metal rings placed around the shell to stabilise it when fired) often made of copper or iron.

You’d assume that due to the conditions soldiers were working and living in that the jewellery made of metal would be crude or, in the case of rings and bangles, were simply intact washers and driving bands put on the finger or arm. In actual fact many rings and some bangles were cast. Nicholas Saunders in his book Trench Art: A brief history and guide, 1914-1939 describes how British, French and Belgian troops often melted

Sweetheart brooch

Rising Sun regimental sweetheart brooch

down scrap metal, cast them into pre-carved moulds, then filed and polished the pieces ready to be sold on to other troops as a way of making money or bartering for supplies.

One soldier wrote describing the activity: ‘The lads in the trenches while away the flat time by fashioning rings, crosses and pendants out of bullets and the softer parts of shells’.

Other than as gifts or to while away the dull hours, jewellery was made as an identifying mark; be it to identify the individual or as a patriotic gesture. Brooches were best for engraving and pinning to a uniform, such as the simple copper brooch worn by Sgt. Henry J Will (right). Coins and military badges could be refashioned to show allegiance, or possibly as an act of defiance and vandalism by the enemy.

manufactured or hand-made. Manufactured pieces were sold to troops as mementoes, and could be made of silver (as most other metals were rationed and commandeered to produce munitions) or as the rings described above made by allied soldiers. Hand-wrought engravings were common, with ‘Mother’ being particularly popular.

There is evidence of sweetheart jewellery being made from carved wood, bone (most probably discarded food waste), chalk and stone. These pieces would have most likely been made by those with little or no metal working skill, and as they weren’t worth much to anyone else, were intended to be very personalised gifts.

Sweetheart Jewellery The Great War, and subsequently World War II, saw the emergence of ‘sweetheart’ jewellery.

This was Trench Art jewellery, but of an even more specific nature. It was sent home to loved ones – such as lovers, or mothers and sisters – by troops serving abroad. It seems this new tradition was most popular among the American troops stationed in France, being so far from their homes and families.

Sweetheart jewellery could be made from any number of items or materials, and was

Helmet brooch

Conclusion I’ve only been able to give the briefest of overviews here, but interesting nonetheless.

That so many men, in these disgusting, sickening and horrifying conditions, decided to use their very rare free time to create jewellery and art is both astonishing and deeply moving. And learning that men’s wristwatches actually came into being as a direct consequence of the conflict is logical yet surprising. War in itself is abhorrent, but finding shreds of beauty and creativity within it somehow gives a sense of hope.

The Voice of the Industry 67

| Letters

Letters to the Editor Dear sirs, Firstly, I would like to thank you for your efforts always to add value for Association member companies such as Miltons (Liverpool) Ltd, MS Milton Ltd and SS Milton Ltd, all of which I represent.

There is a danger that the N.A.G. Insurance Replacement Scheme proposed may serve only to normalise the questionable levels of discount which the insurance industry is currently ‘enjoying’ from a number of large jewellery retailers and related groups.

Many Association members are highly critical of such arrangements, which may be supportable only if one has inflated profit margins in place before such discount is applied.

Recognising that the Association represents a very diverse range of jewellery retailers and businesses, with different business strategies and trading models, we do try to add value in as many ways as we can. The Institute of Registered Valuers – a key part of the Association – has had conversations with the insurance industry regarding the importance of getting clients to have professional valuations on their precious jewellery, as well as trying to explain to them that bigger discounts do not always mean a good deal for their customer.

The counterpoint to this argument is that we have been taking a negative position towards commissions (discounts) for years, and insurance replacement business has been going elsewhere. Indeed, this new scheme has had a small success in that the level of commission paid to insurance companies is a little below many such schemes and well below a few others. Insurers have been getting these discounts for years and so they are truly ‘normalised’ already.

We believe it is incumbent on the Association to try to obtain some of the

68 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

Following last month’s issue, which featured an outline of the many new and established membership benefits, we received this letter from Haywood Milton, voicing a few concerns on one particular aspect. We also print the Association’s response to his correspondence.

It is of course a free market in which one can charge what one likes. However, I am one of many who would rather that all customers (private and insurance industry) enjoyed best value in absolute terms, rather than apparent best value judged by the percentage of discount offered.

I wonder if efforts might profitably be directed towards educating the insurance industry about absolute value. Otherwise, do we perpetuate their misunderstanding that jewellery is nothing more than a commodity, priced the same by all jewellers and whose replacement can best be sourced

simply through the company offering the greatest discount?

Finally, N.A.G. members must always be honest with the public. Shall we explain to those clients wielding an N.A.G. ‘Red Card’, that any retailer who will accept it must have profit margins big enough to allow discounts of 23 per cent or more, which those same customers may normally have to subsidise if they shop at their stores?

Thank you again, but please exclude my three companies from the Association’s Insurance Replacement Scheme.

Haywood Milton, M.A.(Hons), R.J.Dip Director, Miltons (Liverpool) Ltd, MS Milton Ltd and SS Milton Ltd

Member and Servsihcip Benefits es 2014

The cos ts of the scheme off payme is an initi nt of £19 al one9 and month, while then £30 plus the helping price of per 80p eac them requireme the card meet h. The s: about nts. Her regulatory member card pay e are benefits accepting s a premiu • Easy some of using to use: a the m into the of the per cen Equifax: • Com complet scheme t. This instant veri pliance: ely online of 10 is then Equifax’s member fication payable designe solution who sold solution compan to the d to help s are will help the card ies proces adminis reg , ulated com tration and to cover comply s applica avoid pap with vari their tions fast panies the card be cap er-based ous regulat er, ped at cost. This requireme document reports ory £150, hen nts. The will s, allow to be stor redeem se include ce costing ing memb money ed eas electron ily and antilaundering, er £15. the ically and treating fairly, resp req uire info the s minima rmation client onsible Pay4later – just nam l lending protection and V12 and and e, dat dat add from the – Both of e of birt a ress enable h European these par 4th Money the me The Nat tners, Union mber to Gift Car Laundering promotion ional Ass ds & Loy offer fina Office of Directive, ociation s (includ Insurance alty Car Fair Trad months nce ing zer of Goldsm free cred ds – Wit Replace ing, Fina Insuranc per cen Conduc it) to the iths’ ment Sch hin 12 e Replace ncial t interest negotiated t Author ir custom is a Nat eme – We ment Car multi cha The card ity and Info a schem er’s via a ional Sch Commis have ds, which s are refil nnel por complet e with validation rmation eme and sioner Offi members lable and tfolio. In e an insu where stages. All service, ope • ce of can a n ran Custom credit the Associa for our me marketplac only to cards will ce be used insurance er Friendl is widely your sup mbers to tion. We e in be valid recognis replaceme y: the cus port on supply really nee available, for 13 mo ed that not require nt work. operates tomer doe this; the our memb d nths. that sign we paper-b a schem The sch The Loy with an more me s up the bet ers need ased doc which will automatic e for the eme alty Car mbers member to offer uments, ter for eve d – This ir needs. also red opt in and The sch managed store, but will be ryone invo is tailored uce ‘wa Luckily we eme is cen every when the signed up to secure will wor lk-aways’ want to lved. to your trally ma have y do not give you initially. k the sam opt out, so memb outlet. The two exc naged, but have the access to (If you please call Those usin ellent offe ers can e for eac card can departm se to han will a web can the g choose rs Equifax h ent and suits the portal so be filled add and customer membersh d. which sch have rep to an eigh m, and advise). every tim remove that you spends ip scheme orte the em The bas The bea fun t e a d per ir e ds a pos up are: clients, point for pound cent incr from the sibilities ics of the uty of the the bes due to wal in store; ease in every pou cards. with bot • The system t. The family of sales one k away red h schem nd spent.

Association further serv for reward is that we, • Credit members, uction es will Suggestion ice to you s would will send as a Risk: cus add a he consum no one can offe be a serv r current a letter s give you cleaning tomers else in r someth er listing to portfolios finance ice – ma the best applying jewellery our industr ing the amoun can avo the replace Association chance and for ybe or watch or bein ments. id declarin y can – of up-sell t of ment, tog battery rep g able member financial Howeve i.e. an g current ing and/ ether with to suppor r this will in nearly tear-off situation, lacecity in the when the manage voucher every tow t your also be up to United Kin una and y the nee or ware of customer y can be decide. n or replaceme d it. you to gdom. card. The Perhaps some pas The sch nt letter will someon t/present commitme eme offe list their e wants nearest of jewelle financial nts, CCJ rs the pos your cus five members to buy s and ban ry for sibility to The rep tomer bas Luckily we a gift • The a family kruptcie ort will allo build who live e through consum s. member s 200 mile w lenders have ma er will be over 450 loyalty, to access s away… us to vali asked to unsure million fina to kno and naged to secure tw of what date the but is w more call ncial reco get a true they like claim • The o excelle about rds to They buy picture of . Simple. your cus consum the custom er takes nt offers credit-w a gift FundingSe tomers so memb their valid orthines card from into one you and than er cure – eve s, ated of the jew so the com ers can r before Peer-to-pe send it claim offer the loans. A . You can ellers and pany can er asset-b choose orders an best pro recipien to the new take acknowledg wh buys/ t whereve duc ased article/s ich sche t for the Applicants on paw exciting • The e birthr in the customer. nbroking, scheme are in the may also me suits retailer take of their choosin y days, ann allows any this UK. have an g history whi system s the vou them, iversaries, and their store to address further pay of pawnbr ch shows The fam cher, plu set up a offer oking with ment for cli ily memb s any up info out en neg rma lay ts, the be ative special the artic or an FCA tion that out the issues a er can redeem le, and capital would oth receipt it at the licence. promotion st. be unchec The ir erw • The loca scheme s at ise eller… it’s l jewked, as retailer sen works by the serv certain tim as easy up to six an item ds/prefera the ice jew as es che a copy of yea and and that. eller valu cks bly emails rs’ worth WorldPay informing • Fraud the vouche even driv ing of residen maximum – WorldP the borrow Prevention e prodr and rece us at Luk cy ay offers loan am card pay er of the : Know e St and ipt to ucts for unrivaled ount (70 (KYC) che value). The ment cov Your Clie within 30special global per cen we settle cks on cus erage and nt cost of bor across all 40 days t trade the amoun occasions. tomers rowing is only help to the cus of the lead functionali can not t by BAC less 23% then exp with AM ing schem tomer who ty both the S, lained L complia help com es. It pro proceed. access to decides • If the nce, but vides bat fraud If this is whether global ma card pay consum via the to papers, rkets and ment exp fake/tam out the er undersp case, the document voucher/ca pered form on ertise tha the ends on jeweller business s and iden t will help the sup rd, the reta fill their theft (wh takes pho succeed. plied tab tity iler issues credit for ere frau your tos and We hav some very let and dsters use the diffe a e been informa person’s product competitive rence. another tion abo given the claim identity and cus and I urg rates from ut the to apply tomer bef can be paid This ensures and serv securely e you to for goods WorldPay ore sen ices) and the of the vou to Funding see if the competitive ding this rest cher/ card Secure. se are then sen than tho The is used mo your stor d com by email re getting. se you pany will in e a signed The card are curr to the jew • There loan agre ently terminal eller’s and most upis no cas ement s availab to-date addresses. the custom h alterna le are the and sec tive The jew er’s em and Wo ure on the eller will ail rldPay can through then nee market, the agre offer an portal to d to run ement with interactive accept pay print it and online the custom ments. get it sign 34 The Jewe er, keep a ed. The ller July 2014 customer copy of Equifax the agre will jeweller – Equifax ement will adv is working Association and the ise Fundin agreement to provide with the gSe cure tha is signed. members to help t the with elec with serv The fun tronic ID ices ds are the risk, affo Verification n transfer either the rdability , credit red dire borrower’s and frau ctly to d preven bank acc case of cash, to ount or, tion the jewelle in the A copy of r’s bank the tran acc oun sfer is sen t. and the t to the customer jeweller for their The cus records. tomer leav es… hop efully hap py!

The Asso ciation’s members Eden, ha hip deve s now co lopment mpleted and servi manage an exha ces, and r, Robert ustive ov is now compan erhaul of able to ies that our bene extend will be fits this roll to offer working call of tho relevan with us t and bu se , and the siness-r members elated se hip, rvices an d offers .

Benefits and

Services |

Financial

Pawnbrok ing

Last issue’s feature on the benefits and services available to Association Members

insurance replacement business for its members. We now have a system in place which suits a significant number of members and will hopefully bring much needed additional revenue. This doesn’t mean that we won’t continue to ‘work from within’ to

The Voice of

the Industry

35

press exactly the absolute value arguments that Haywood has made in his letter – we welcome his constructive engagement and share many of his sentiments.

Michael Rawlinson CEO, National Association of Goldsmiths

DO BUSINESS MORE EFFICIENTLY AND PROFITABLY WHILST MEETING REGULATORY REQUIREMENTS We can provide insight which may help you: Meet AML obligations Authenticate identities online Assess financial risk Trace lost customers and recover bad debt

To find out more call 0845 603 6772 or visit equifax.co.uk Equifax Limited is registered in England with Registered No. 2425920.

Registered Office: Capital House, 25 Chapel Street, London NW1 5DS. Equifax Limited is authorised and regulated by the Financial Conduct Authority.

048/07-14

“Posh Pawn” as seen on TV.

Positions available: Store manager – Hatton Garden Assistant manager- Hatton Garden Assistant manager – Weybridge/Richmond We are currently looking to hire staff with extensive knowledge and a minimum of 5 years experience in dealing with and handling high end jewellery and watches.

As a well established high end pawnbrokers we are very excited to be in a position to expand the team and to meet with anyone who has the above experience.

Please contact Jo Lawlor on 01932 859 880 or alternatively send your C.V. to jo@prestigepawnbrokers.co.uk

You can visit our website at:

www.prestigepawnbrokers.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 69

| Regular

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs August 31st – 2nd September: International Jewellery London, Olympia, London The N.A.G.-sponsored Advice Clinic, KickStarters, Bright Young Things, awards, catwalk shows, late night shopping… and of course exhibitors of jewellery, watches, gems, equipment and services.

IJL, ring by www.jewellerylondon.com Sheila Fleet September 1st – 4th: International Diamond Week, Israel A customised diamond sales event for accredited diamond dealers. www.en.isde.co.il 5th – 8th: Bijorhca, Porte de Versailles, Paris Five hundred exhibitors of fine and fashion jewellery; newly established designer makers alongside international brands such as

Vendome, Les Néréides and Trollbeads. www.bijorhca.com 9th – 13th: Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, Impact Convention Center, Muang Thong Thani Free hotel accommodation for three days and two nights is offered to buyers who register and are approved for this major fair’s Business Matching Service. www.bangkokgemsfair.org 17th – 21st: Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, HK Convention Centre International marketplace for loose gems, fine and finished jewellery and related goods and services. Over 3,600 exhibitors from 48 countries. exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com October 25th – 27th: Euro Trophex 2014, PTA, Amsterdam, Netherlands Europe’s largest trophy, awards and personalisation trade show, held every other year. www.europtrophex.com

N.A.G. Diary Dates September 13th – 15th: IRV Conference, Loughborough University A packed weekend of keynote speakers, seminars and workshops, open to all in the trade, but of particular benefit to valuers.

See p24 for a preview of the event.

Email: irv@jewellers-online.org for details.

23rd: Developing Sales Skills Course, Luke Street, London A one-day course on a variety of topics, focussing on everyday sales situations.

October 1st – 2nd: Diamond and Diamond Grading, London Aiming to increase knowledge and understanding of diamonds, boost confidence and enhance selling performance.

8th: Essential Display, London A combination of theory and practical sessions that will help retailers learn how to create exciting, effective window displays.

For more details on courses see p20.

Contact Amanda White on tel: 020 7613 4445 or you can send an email to her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

Book Reviews Estate Jewelry 1760-1960 by Diana Sanders Cinamon Schiffer Publishing, £41.50 While written by an American with values given in US dollars, this reference to antique and period jewellery would be a useful tool for many in the business of valuing pieces from this 200-year period in jewellery history. The author, a certified gemmologist and appraiser (valuer), looks at items collected in the UK, Europe, Canada and the US, presenting changes in construction techniques and styles, from Georgian through to Art Deco and modern periods.

She also points out that until the ealy 20th

70 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

century, it was usual for jewellers to apply the same level of craftsmanship to precious and non-precious materials (often mixing the two together in a piece) to accommodate the clientele. As an aid to the valuer, the book explores basic identification techniques for gem materials, metals, findings and fastenings (where possible, the backs as well as fronts of 500+ examples are given in the chronological and category-organised pricing guide) as well as historical influences.

How to Ruin a Queen: Marie Antoinette, the Stolen Diamonds and the Scandal that shook the French Throne, by Jonathan Beckman John Murray, £20 Not a reference book, but a scholarly account of the true tale of how one Cardinal Louis

de Rohan stood accused of forging the signature of Marie Antoinette to obtain the most expensive piece of jewellery in Europe – a 2,400 carat necklace worth 1.6 million francs.

It was a trial that divided France and played no small part in the downfall of the French monarchy. Beckman, the senior editor of Literary Review, has drawn on untapped archival sources and his own imaginative story-telling, to throw new light on this ‘poorly understood’ moment in French history.

Expect kidnappings, assassination attempts, hapless French police and a duel fought with poisoned pigs. As one reviewer puts it: “A murky story of the Ancien Régime including diamonds and sex, brilliantly told.”

Sales & Exhibitions August Current – 19th October: Ming: The Golden Empire, National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh A collection of original artefacts from the Nanjing Museum. Luxury items and rare objects, including gold and jades and examples of elaborately enamelled cloisonné, and the iconic blue and white porcelain. www.nms.ac.uk

Current – 19th October: A Bestiary of Jewels, Harley Gallery, Worksop, Notts An encyclopaedia of bejeweled animals created by artist-goldsmith Kevin Coates, created in gold and silver, shell and other materials. www.harleygallery.co.uk

September 18th – 21st: Chelsea Antiques Fair, Chelsea Old Town Hall, Kings Road, London SW3 A boutique-style feel for this fair showcasing collections from dealers in silverware, jewellery, fine art, antiques and design. www.penman-fairs.co.uk 22nd – 5th October: Goldsmiths’ Fair, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London EC2 A two-week selling exhibition of work by 170 leading UK-based designer makers of jewellery and silverware. Names such as Sarah Herriot, Ute Decker, William Cheshire and Olivia Lowe. www.goldsmithsfair.co.uk October 31st — 6th December: Cycles of Life, Les Eluminures, New York An exhibition of museum-quality rings, spanning 3rd century AD to late 19th century, from the private collection of Benjamin Zucker, gem dealer and connoisseur. www.leseluminures.com

Goldsmiths' Fair, vase by Olivia Lowe

The Voice of the Industry 71

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Computer Systems

Diamonds & Gemstones

Endorsed by the trade • • • •

Diamonds & Gemstones

70 CMJ members use Bransom 50% of Houlden members use Bransom 83 Pandora concept stores use Bransom 80% of Pandora gold stores use Bransom

Diamond Jewellery

Diamond Setters

karunaGEMS Diamonds • Gemstones • Fine Jewellery Since 1976 KarunaGems have established and developed direct contacts with diamond and gemstone cutting centres around the world, thus ensuring we can supply the stones

Special Approval Enquiries Diamond Jewellery All Styles Tel: +44 (0)20 7404 4022 info@karunagems.com • www.karunagems.com

Engravers Machine Engraving available on request NAG Prize Winners

MASTERS Hand Engravers Traditional hand engraving service at its best.

Competitive price structure with fast delivery and turnaround.

07768 893474 info@mastersengravers.co.uk www.mastersengravers.co.uk

Jeweller the

Leslie Donn Ltd 454 Bury Old Road, Prestwich, Manchester M25 1NL

Tel: 0161 773 0000 www.donnsjewellery.co.uk

For Sale

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The Voice of The Industry

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Now increased circulation (6,000+) and a wider readership (25,000) Now greater focus on gems and gemmology Now distributed to all NAG and Gem-A members (UK and overseas)

Advertise here for a cost-effective means to reach the buyers you want!

Email: neil@jewellers-online.org

Gemstones

GL Gem Spectrometer GL Gem Raman PL532 Gemlab Research & Technology Vancouver, B.C. CANADA Tel. +1-604-530-8569 gemlab@cigem.ca www.gemlab.ws

Jewellery Manufacturing

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Photographic Services

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Retail Services

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| Regular

The

Last Word As the industry counts down the days to IJL in its new home at Olympia, it’s perfectly fitting to give The Last Word this month to event director Sam Willoughby.

Personal Profile Sam started working as the event director on IJL in 2010, as maternity cover for Syreeta Tranfield. Having worked in the events industry for 14 years and Reed Exhibitions for nine years, she brought a wealth of experience to the show and her position was made permanent in 2011 as the joint director with Syreeta.

Sam quickly made herself known in the jewellery industry and became a business big shot in the jewellery industry’s Hot 100 awards. She also sits on the Executive Committee of the Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council and is part of the selection committee for IJL’s own initiatives – KickStart and Editor’s Choice.

Who has been the biggest influence on your life?

It’s quite hard to select just one person, as several people have influenced me at different times. But if I have to choose one individual over and above the others, then it would be my dad. He has always supported me, but pushed me hard to try and be the very best in everything I do. He has been very ill for a long time and his determination to never give up astounds me.

If you could go back in time, what era or moment would you choose? Why? It would be the 18 months I spent travelling when I was 24. I was working and had a great job, doing very well, but I had always wanted to travel and decided that if I didn’t do it then, I never would. So I gave up my job and went off on my own to Australia, Thailand and India. I had some amazing and also quite tough times, but ultimately I had experiences many will never have. Trekking through the desert on a camel in India, New Year’s Eve watching fireworks over Sydney Harbour Bridge, camping by Ayers Rock…

74 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2014

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others?

Determined, stubborn, caring – in both my view and that of others!

What aspect of your career would you do differently if you had your time over?

I believe that looking forward is better than looking backwards, particularly within the events industry, which is very fast moving.

Immersing yourself in the industry you are part of is critical and you can never do that enough.

If you could wave a magic wand and change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be?

The UK jewellery industry has a reputation for being very traditional, conservative and not forward thinking and I would like the rest of the world to realise that on the whole this is not true and, in fact, quite the opposite.

I would also encourage those who are like this to be bold and take more risks, and to recognise that change can be good for your business.

What has been the highest point of your career so far?

I am hoping it’s going to be August the 31st 2014 when the doors of Olympia open and hoards of retailers flood through!

So far we are 26 per cent up on registrations, so it’s looking good!

If not the events industry, what might your alternative career have been?

I wanted to be a nurse or look after children when I was much younger. I have always been interested in working for a charity.

Favourite shopping destination – why?

I’m a fan of Edinburgh – it’s where I was born – but I also love York.

What film did you last see at the cinema?

Turbot the Snail… it was with my son!

What’s your guiltiest pleasure?

Wine (particularly rosé)!

Tell us something not many people know about you.

I am a qualified ballet teacher – I don’t teach any more but I take my daughter to baby ballet so she may follow in my footsteps.

What keeps you awake at night?

Very little! I rarely have a problem sleeping; I just don’t get enough of it!

Quick Fire Town or country? Town Four wheels or two? Four TV or radio? TV Jewellery on men? Yes or No? Depends what type…

Delegator or control freak?

Control freak at work, delegator at home Beatles or Rolling Stones? Neither Paperback or e-reader? Paperback

USA +1-212-382-3528 | BELGIUM +32-3-234-1157 | ISRAEL +972-3-612-8995 | INDIA +91-22-612-73333 CUSTOMERSUPPORT@IDEXONLINE.COM