T H E
V O I C E
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I N D U S T R Y
Gems&Jewellery IN CONJUNCTION WITH
Aug/Sep t 2015
The lu re of ivory Maya jade: a revi The S val co interv rpion K iew w in ith Brug: ce
/ No. 5
w w w. j eRegister w e l l e r y now l o n dat: o n .c o m jewellerylondon.com/register
In this issue IJL 60th Anniversary – preview and highlights Security Special – news, views and products Future Trends – the shape of things to come
Photo: Fa. Hans D. Krieger, Idar-Oberstein â€“ Paraiba-Rings
t ve ke ! Sa tic now e li n nt o n co u s di
Meet the international Gemworld in Munich.
Europeâ€˜s top show for gems & jewellery in autumn. www.gemworldmunich.com
CONTENTS & CONTACTS
Better safe Editor’s Letter
Meeting the NAJ’s CEO
Member of the Month
Top Drawer Preview
Autumn Fair Preview
Where to Go…
…And What to Read
Including a feature on the Scorpion Mine, plus the hot topic of ivory, thick and thin diamonds, the ancient carvings of the Maya, a full round up of Gem-A at IJL and much more.
COVER IMAGE In conjunction with International Jewellery London 6–8 September 2015 Olympia Grand, London, UK www.jewellerylondon.com
w w w. j e w e l l e r y l o n d o n .c o m
News, views and product developments to help the jewellery industry fight crime
Future Trends 2016 Swarovski Gem Visions offers an overview of the directions that will shape next year’s jewellery
A Diamond of a Show
The 60th anniversary of IJL promises to be a sparkling event – we bring you highlights of the collections to be showcased
Understanding Casting The latest in our series that demystifies the processes involved in jewellery manufacture
The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com Sales Director: Ian Francis The National Association Tel: 020 7749 1705 of Goldsmiths Fax: 020 7729 0143 78a Luke Street, firstname.lastname@example.org London EC2A 4XG Tel: 020 7613 4445 Publishing Enquiries/ www.jewellers-online.org Classified Advertising: Neil Oakford CEO: Michael Rawlinson email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org Contributors: Editor: Belinda Morris Mary Brittain, Andrew Fellows, email@example.com Lee Henderson, John Henn Art Director: Ben Page firstname.lastname@example.org The N.A.G. is responsible for producing The Jeweller and, although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the N.A.G. does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from opinions expressed by contributors. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The N.A.G. accepts no responsibility for the content of Gems&Jewellery or any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries. The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 3
Editor’s Letter Welcome to Autumn! One key trade show under our belt and plenty more beckoning, but first…
Should you need somewhat fanciful proof that crime against jewellers (and therefore security) is a topical
This issue: Sadly, security will always be a jewellery industry issue… However, armed with the right weapons and intelligence, the industry can fight back… Page 28
matter for discussion, look no further than the September issue of Vogue. The Hatton Garden job has prompted a feature on diamond heists – which, let’s face it, sounds a lot more glam than ‘smash ‘n’ grab’. Blame Cary Grant, blame Robin Hood, blame Cannes – but, says writer Carol Woolton, we do seem to have a fascination for a dashing jewel thief. The reality is, of course, less romantic. Robberies are traumatic, frightening and often violent – not beguiling at all. And, whether you’re Chopard, Graff or A.N. Other Jeweller on the High Street, security has to be a number one priority. We cover this subject in every issue of The Jeweller, but this month we look at it in added depth. Turn to p28 for our crime-fighting update.
IJL also has security in its sights– as well as the usual seminars, one-to-one advice clinics on the subject will be held every day during the Olympia show, so… further opportunities to check, with an expert, whether you’re as safe as you can possibly be. Obviously you’ll have to be running a tight ship, diary-wise; there’s a lot to pack in over the three days. If you’re looking for something different there seem to be more first-time exhibitors than ever this year and, judging by our preview (p40) the offer across the board – from old and new, traditional and contemporary – is more varied and exuberant than ever.
If you’re thinking ahead and want to know the trends for 2016, there’s a seminar for that too, courtesy of IJL and Adorn Insight. In the meantime our Future Trends feature (p36), for which we thank Swarovski Gem Visions, presents the inspirational directions in terms of colour, form and material for the next 12 months or more (depending on how avant garde you’re feeling).
After a whirlwind tour of the aisles at the CMJ Swing Time Event earlier this month, a few of my (random) favourites are: double-ended earrings (as at London Pearl), multi-functionables (Chalfen’s diamond earrings with removable ‘jacket’; Biiju’s disc earrings with removable hoops; Ungar & Ungar’s pendants that become brooches,
… the show attracts a mix of exhibitors – from cutting-edge established designers and brands, to fine jewellery manufacturers and emerging designer-makers… Page 40
Sif Jakob’s faux and real two-finger rings) and any green stones (gorgeous statement rings at Lalique)! After the first day at IJL I’m anticipating that my shopping list will be longer…
If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters, please email the editor at email@example.com
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 5
MEETING THE NAJ’s CEO As the dust settles on the unification agreement Belinda Morris catches up with Michael Rawlinson, the newly-appointed CEO of the National Association of Jewellers, to learn of his vision for the future.
inding a window in Mr. Rawlinson’s diary for a chat wasn’t easy. As you might imagine, from the moment of the announcement that he was to be the inaugural chief executive of the National Association of Jewellers, his phone has been ringing off the hook; spare moments are like gold dust. However, find time he did, for while unification formalities are yet to be completed, there’s no time like right now to begin the business of creating a blueprint for the new Association. And it’s not just the NAJ’s future that Rawlinson has in his sights, but that of the industry at large – the industry that it represents, speaks for and serves. He’s had a while to think about this of course – the comprehensive interview process for the position of CEO required that he present his vision for the new Association. “What it comes down to though, is consumer confidence and the desire to purchase jewellery; that’s the hook to hang the vision on, our core goal,” he says. And in the process of achieving that goal Rawlinson is focused on the promise of a ‘win-win situation’ for everyone connected with the new Association – its stakeholders, its staff and its members. “I believe that we must go beyond the usual corporate claims of ‘providing leadership’ or ‘creating a vision for the future of our industry’ to spell out, in concrete terms, the real
“Trading with an NAJ member should be your mark of confidence and in time we will build up that confidence.”
commercial benefits that the new organisation will bring to its members and the industry as a whole,” he explains. “I believe that it is only through making a promise such as this, and delivering upon that promise, that we will galvanise our membership, inspire our industry and provide a firm foundation for its continuing and growing success. “My plan proposes that membership of the NAJ is the Mark of a good retailer, manufacture, designer-maker or whatever part of the trade you sit in. Trading with an NAJ member should be your mark of confidence and in time we will build up that confidence.” Given that just over two years ago Rawlinson had zero experience of that trade, its myriad issues and diversities, his knowledge of and passion for it now is impressive. In his
own words, he “hit the ground running” when he joined the N.A.G. as CEO and had “to learn a lot, very quickly. Have I learned quickly enough? Maybe not. There are so many building blocks to lay down – it’s a very complex industry. But I have learned to use my ears and mouth in proportion to what I’ve been given.” Prior to this position Rawlinson spent 12 years running the trade association for video games. He has also gained experience in small independent and multiple retailing as well as manufacturing. “I have an appreciation of the issues of retailers and of the symbiotic relationship between them and suppliers,” he explains. “Arriving at the N.A.G. I knew nothing about gems, jewellery or precious metals, and had no pre-conceived ideas about them – but that enabled me to come to the job with fresh eyes.”
Details of his comprehensive vision for the NAJ, its objectives and his plans for driving the mission forward will be revealed by Rawlinson at IJL next month. However, in short, the areas that he will describe encompass: increased consumer confidence (‘the Mark of a good jeweller’); strengthened education, training and mentoring, supporting a professional industry; raising ethical and professional standards via a new Code of Practice; representation of the industry to the wider world via trade commissions; support (perhaps from the Government) for members to grow their businesses and the forging of stronger relationships within the industry and with stakeholders such as CIBJO, RJC and buying groups. He will also explain how the two teams – one in Birmingham, the other in London – will be brought together to help him deliver a stronger organisation; one that will bring “real and substantive benefits for everyone associated with it”. Also outlined will be the NAJ’s role in promoting the industry from economic, employment and creative perspectives and plans to build on the development of the trade. One subject that many existing and prospective members will be keen to hear about is consumer-facing promotional activity, so they’ll be happy to learn that this is an area close to Rawlinson’s heart. “The message to the consumer is clear – look for a member of the NAJ, this is your Mark of a good jeweller. It’s about professionalism, integrity and honesty – we can make this industry great if we all pull together.” Be sure to check out stand K30 at IJL next month, to learn much more about Michael Rawlinson’s plans for the Association.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 7
IJL organisers focus on security H Chalfen unveils W rebrand hile jewellery, watches and gemstones might be the main focus of attention at the forthcoming International Jewellery London show (6th – 8th September, Olympia) the organisers of the event are keen to stress that the event will also be highlighting other key areas close to a jeweller’s heart. Security is obviously one such area. Once again IJL will have a number of specialist security exhibitors showcasing their products and services, as well as seminars and advice clinics that are specifically aimed at helping to keep stores
safer and more secure. Along with the Flying Squad from the Metropolitan Police, visitors will be able to talk to Elite Protection, GJIS, Facewatch, Protect Fog Cannon, Oncam Global and Medusa. The latter brand has chosen IJL for the UK launch of its innovative deterrent to smash-and-grab raids. Meanwhile, retail security expert Hilaire O’Shea will be speaking about how to deter theft from occurring and will also be offering one-to-one advice. For more on security news and advice, see p28.
CMJ reports recordbreaking sales T
he Company of Master Jewellers (CMJ) has reported that sales through the group have risen to over £150m and gross profit is up by 12 per cent to £2.29m. Speaking to the CMJ membership at the group’s AGM in Birmingham on Sunday 9th August, CMJ finance director Andrew Hirshman reported that CMJ group sales rose from £113m in 2013/14 to just shy of £153m in 2014/15, representing a rise of 35 per cent. The bridal jewellery segment, which includes both diamond and wedding ring suppliers, has contributed £12.8m this year to core CMJ sales, up from £10.7m in the previous year and £11.9m the year before that. This represents a rise of just under 20 per cent, reversing last year’s fall of 10 per cent. “This does indeed demonstrate that we have begun to refocus back onto this critical side of our business. Domino, Corona and Bass Premier have in particular have shown good growth this year,” Hirshman reported. Watch sales have also continued to rise within CMJ, with sales
through the group up from £9.7m to £12.0m. “It’s encouraging that all segments have reported growth from last year, not only due to the steady increase in our membership (up from 144 in 2014 to 155 this year) but also to the focus and performance of our membership as a whole,” Hirshman added. The CMJ’s chief executive Willie Hamilton commented: “It is gratifying to see another year of top line growth and the underlying figures also bring renewed confidence for the future of CMJ.” He reminded retailers that the growth in the jewellery market is in costume jewellery — the ‘bridge’ between fine and fashion jewellery.
8 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
“I’ve been saying it for six years, you have to move with the mix.” He added that the ‘mix’ must include wedding and engagement rings: “If your shop says ‘jeweller’, you must sell bridal — otherwise you’re just Accessorise.” In his address to retail members of CMJ on the first morning of the event, Hamilton introduced 10 new CMJ-approved suppliers, as well as British watch brand Accurist, which is back on board with CMJ after a turbulent few years. With a newly-developed range the brand is focusing on growing relationships with UK independent retailers. Accurist joined two other new CMJapproved watch suppliers — SwissEmporio and Minster1949.
uxury diamond jewellery manufacturer and brand H Chalfen revealed its rebrand to Chalfen of London at the CMJ trade event in Birmingham earlier this month. In February this year the Hatton Garden-based business was acquired by Jonathan Pressley, of independent jewellery retailer Pressleys, and Howard Levine, who was H Chalfen’s sales director. The CMJ show was the first time that the company has exhibited as Chalfen of London, using it as a platform to debut its new logo and associated branding, following a period of absence from CMJ’s trade events. The ethos of the brand under the new owners is to build on the H Chalfen legacy, which dates back almost 50 years, keeping a focus on the quality of the stones and the mounts, while bringing a new twist to products and offering the very best in British branded diamond jewellery. The strapline for the rebrand is ‘A Promise Set in Stone’, designed to reflect the company’s promise “to deliver the finest that British luxury jewellery has to offer to the very best retailers in the UK”. The company has recently appointed former Stephen Webster and Garrard designer Kirstie Farquhar as its new designer. Farquhar is working alongside company director Levine to ensure that Chalfen of London’s designs are both eyecatching and relevant while also maintaining the same high-quality that H Chalfen has always been known for. While diamonds are core to the business, the offer shown at the CMJ event included a strong and exciting coloured gemstone collection.
AOB celebrates first and last hallmarked articles part of its recent relocation from Newhall Street to its state-ofA sthe-art, purpose-built facility in Moreton Street, Assay Office Birmingham has revealed the last and first articles to be hallmarked at its former and brand new premises. The business ran a competition via social media for jewellers, brands and silversmiths to submit their work for the honour of being the last items hallmarked at Newhall Street, with CEO and assay master Stella Layton drawing the two winners: LJ Millington and GoldNeilson. The two items were hallmarked on 23rd July – a silver photo frame by silver manufacturer LJ Millington of Birmingham, hand struck by Faye Grove, and a gold ring by GoldNeilson, aka Andrew Neilson, who is part of this year’s IJL KickStarter line-up. Neilson said: “My bespoke jewellery brand has only just launched and I was in disbelief to find out that I’d won the draw. My very first piece of fine jewellery ever to be hallmarked would be the last piece lasered in the iconic Newhall Street Assay Office. What an honour!” Neilson will showcase his laser-marked gold ring alongside his certificate from Assay Office Birmingham at his stand at IJL (T10D). Steve Millington of silver manufacturer LJ Millington said: “I’m delighted our photo frame was the last piece of silver to be struck at the ‘old’ Assay Office, as our workshops are situated closest to the site of Matthew Boulton’s original manufactory on Soho Hill; I’m sure he’d be delighted that the trade that he was fundamental in starting 250 years ago is still alive and kicking.” Millington has gifted the photo frame to the Assay Office, and plans to put an image of Matthew Boulton within it, to be part of the AOB’s private silver collection as the item that received the last hand hallmark in Newhall Street. Opening doors to its new headquarters on 27th July, Assay Office Birmingham also paid tribute to the first two articles to be hallmarked. Staff selected a silver bangle from Gecko to be laser marked, and a gold wedding ring by Charles Green, which was hallmarked by Tina Watts. Charles Green’s first piece of jewellery was hallmarked by the now ‘old’ Assay Office almost 200 years ago.
S N I P P E T S Clogau ups glamour game Inspired by the extravagantly embellished Peacock Throne, Clogau is introducing one of its most exuberant collections to date. The 18ct yellow gold ‘Peacock Throne’ pieces – ring, pendant and earrings – celebrate the opulence of precious gemstones. Meanwhile, the ‘Tree of Life’ collection wraps gold filigree around pearls and ‘Ar Dân’ (Welsh for ablaze) describes a collection of occasion jewellery featuring gems such as topaz, garnet and chalcedony, accented by white diamonds.
Mastercut launches rose gold Mastercut Diamond’s best-selling bridal jewellery collections have been released in 18ct rose gold for 2015 and are being introduced alongside the existing collections in white and yellow gold and platinum. Also new is a collection of wedding bands, each micro set with diamonds in the four metals. Developed by leading diamond-cutter Jean Paul Tolkowsky, the Mastercut diamond has 89 facets and a unique star pattern.
Dinny Hall marks birthday with Liberty line Contemporary jewellery designer Dinny Hall is celebrating her 30th anniversary with a ‘Hall of Hoops’ collection, available exclusively at London store Liberty. The range of 10 signature styles of hoop earrings, from daytime staples to striking statement designs, will be available from September. Each one references an important moment in Hall’s journey as a designer.
Heritage Open Day for Sheffield Assay Office Sheffield Assay Office (SAO) will open its doors to the public on the morning of 11th September. One of the UK’s four assay offices, SAO has been testing and hallmarking precious metals since 1773. Visitors to the free event can hear a talk on the history and work of the office with its curator. The visit also includes a tour of the marking hall and an opportunity to view some articles from the collection. Booking is essential: 0114 2312121. On 16th July SAO held a Punch Party which raised £1,550 for the Brathay Trust, a young people’s charity.
Judith Lockwood completes charity bike-ride Judith Lockwood, the recently-appointed sales director of Hockley Mint and MD of traceable diamond and Fairtrade gold jewellery brand Arctic Circle, completed a London to Paris charity bike ride last month. The 315-mile, four-day challenge has so far raised £1,140 in sponsorship for Lockwood’s chosen charity – The Salvation Army – exceeding her £1,000 target.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 9
KickstartER TO fund British watch T
he Winchester Watch Company has launched a KickStarter campaign to crowdfund its first British-made quartz watch. The Meridian watch will be designed and manufactured on British soil, with high-quality materials, a luxurious feel and an ‘honest’ price tag. The sum of £10,000 is being sought to help create the first limited production run of 250 timepieces. Steven Batchelor, founder of the Winchester Watch Company says: “England has a rich heritage of watchmaking. We are reimagining the art of making watches, and are passionate about bringing an exciting new product to the wrists of fashion-forward contemporary men.” He adds: “We can’t do it without the help of KickStarter supporters – who can pledge to back our campaign in return for a multitude of rewards, including their very own Meridian watch in a choice of three straps. We firmly believe we can bring watchmaking back to the UK – but only with the help of generous, passionate KickStarter backers!” The company initially wanted to create a watch that was not only British-made, but also comprised solely of British parts. Unfortunately, the decline of the watchmaking industry in Britain has been so dramatic, quartz movements can’t yet be manufactured here. The team at Winchester will be using a Swiss-made quartz movement by Ronda – but the Meridian will be designed, crafted and assembled by a totally British team, here on UK soil, with a home-grown company at its helm.
Pandora reports major revenue rise results from listed Danish jewellery brand Pandora show a revenue Q 2increase by 31.2 per cent in the UK, compared with Q2 2014. The rise has been driven by continually relevant and popular product. As well as an increase in the number of concept stores (nine new stores in the UK this year), the brand is also focusing on new categories – rings now account for 19 per cent of UK turnover (although the charm bracelet continues to be the most popular product). Rings have grown by 20 per cent compared to Q2 2014 and online now accounts for 10 per cent of UK revenue. In the wholly-owned factory in Thailand where all the jewellery is hand-finished, the 10,000th employee was hired last month. Peter Andersen, president of Pandora Western Europe, who is responsible for the UK said: “It is a very exciting time for the brand, both globally and within the UK as we continue to focus on developing our business, opening new concept stores and delivering the long term growth through the popularity of the product.”
10 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
S N I P P E T S Jeffrey Warrington starts gem-cutting business Following his retirement from retail (he owned N.A.G. member Warrington’s Jewellers in Horsham) Jeffrey Warrington has continued his association with the industry by offering handfaceted coloured gemstones for the jewellery workshop or designer. From his workshop in Bognor Regis, Warrington (a member of both the UK and US Facet Cutters Guild) is able to offer a diverse selection of types and cuts of stones, particularly those not commonly available from Far East commercial cutters. Visit: www.jeffsgems.co.uk
Inter City Group signs Obaku watches Watch manufacturer and distributor Inter City Group has signed as distributor for Danish watch brand Obaku. The timepieces are inspired by the cultural and design traditions of Denmark and China – a minimalist look combined with the simplicity of Zen philosophy. The brand joins a portfolio that includes Fiorelli, Superdry, Karen Millen and Police.
Delight London to show at Homi, Milan Delight London, a past winner in NY Now’s Eco-Choice Awards, will be showing its latest collection of sustainable rubber jewellery at the Homi lifestyle trade show in Milan (12th-15th September). From bright and multi-hued to neutrally-coloured, all designer Ros Weaver’s ‘rubellery’ (necklaces, bracelets and earrings) is made in London from half-inch, carefully-sourced rubber bands. The most vibrant coloured bands come from Kerala, India.
Town centre event conference planned The team behind the successful Future High Street Summit has developed a new one-day conference, to be held on 11th November, enabling town teams, BIDs, councils and town centre managers to create, organise and hold engaging events in their local areas. Held in the Nottingham Conference Centre, attendees will be able to learn from expert advice, share ideas for events and meet solution-providers. To book a place visit: events.futurehighstreet.co.uk/register
New name, new look for CMJ Media The communications and consultancy arm of CMJ, headed by Sarah Carpin, has changed its name from CMJ Media to Facets PR. The move, which includes a bold new logo, branding and website, was effective from 10th August. The agency specialises in the jewellery industry with clients including: Assay Office Birmingham, Alexis Dove, Marco Sarah Carpin, second from left, and Bicego and SWAG. some of the Facets PR team
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New MOVE at Endless jewellery company Clogau has become the exclusive W elsh distributor of Danish jewellery brand Endless Jewelry in the
UK and Ireland. Named the 2015 UK Jewellery Awards ‘Jewellery Brand of the Year’ Endless has, in less than two years, entered 25 markets on four continents, making it the fastest-growing new jewellery brand worldwide (it entered Switzerland this month). Ben Roberts, Clogau’s MD comments: “Endless is a brand with an amazing potential and has a dedicated, successful team led by Mark Faulkner, Endless Jewelry’s country manager, and nine team members. We fully intend to retain this team, who like the rest of the organisation, was hit by the overwhelming global demand resulting in some supply chain issues. “By being closer to the retailers, controlling distribution and customer service, we, together with the Endless Jewelry team, are convinced we will be able to take full advantage of the product’s potential.”
Laura Bangert joins Goldsmiths’ Fair L
aura Bangert, the winner of the N.A.G. Creative/Distinctive Jewellery Award at this year’s prestigious Goldsmiths’ Crafts and Design Awards will be showing her work at the Goldsmiths’ Fair (22th – 27th September). Her 18ct gold and diamond ring is one of the pieces selected by Julie Peyton-Jones, co-director of the Serpentine Gallery, who is this year’s guest curator of show highlights. Bangert follows up this event by exhibiting at the Made London show this October (22nd – 25th, 1 Marylebone, London W1). She began designing jewellery in 2010 following a successful, 20-year career as a 3D visual display artist in television, culminating in a nomination for a BAFTA for her work in the field. Since the GCDA Award, Bangert has been occupied finishing her collection. “I’m looking at production. I’ve been experimenting with new techniques to make my complex designs cheaper to produce,” she explains. “I have some pieces in silver which continue my theme, but are more affordable.”
Hilco buys Chapelle I
ndependent, specialist designer outlet jewellery chain Chapelle has been sold to investment firm and owner of the HMV entertainment retail group, Hilco Capital in a deal managed and initiated by Smith Cooper. Chapelle Jewellery, which operates 24 stores in designer outlet villages and a successful ecommerce website, is the largest jewellery retailer specialising in selling end of season jewellery and watches at discounted prices and was founded by Paul and Margaret Mortimer. Following the sale of the business, the couple will maintain operational control of Chapelle, which they have been building for the last 20 years.
S N I P P E T S Hills Jewellers opens branded store Felixstowe-based Hills Jewellers, owned by Margaret Harris, her daughter Vanessa and son-in-law Paul Magri-Harris, has opened Gorgeous Jewels, its first branded store. The shop on Hamilton Road in the town centre, stocks Endless Jewelry, Swarovski, Thomas Sabo, Trollbeads, Coeur de Lion, Chrysalis, Hot Diamonds, Virtue, Nomination and Fiorelli. Fine jewellery will continue to be sold through Hills, which has a brides area and offers key customer services.
Casio G-Shock funds TV series Casio’s premium watch brand G-Shock has teamed with UKTV and Factory Media on the latter’s first branded-content TV commission The Unbreakables. To be aired on Dave this autumn, the 12-part, 30-minutes episode series sees two athletes-turned-media-personalities dream up impossibleseeming stunts inspired by locations that they are dropped in. The multi-channel nature of the tie-up allows G-Shock to talk directly to its audience through digital and social channels, while driving significant brand awareness via broadcast.
Bec Astley Clarke to speak at society event Bec Astley Clarke MBE, founder and MD of online jewellery store Astley Clarke, is to speak at a forthcoming Coworth Park Speaker Event. The Ascot hotel, part of the select Dorchester Collection, will host the talk at 12pm on 10th November, when Astley Clarke will describe the journey of her designs, from drawings to sourcing gems and creating the final piece, as well as the challenges of success. Tickets cost £50 including a glass of Champagne and a three-course lunch with wine. For reservations call: 01344 756 784.
Honour for Beaverbrooks’ CEO Beaverbrooks the Jeweller’s CEO, Anna Blackburn, has been recognised as one of the most influential women in the North West business community. Blackburn, the first female chief executive in Beaverbrooks’ history and the first non-family member to be appointed to the role, is one of 113 businesswomen to be honoured for their professional achievements, leadership skills and community service. “After being with Beaverbrooks for 17 years and dedicating my career to the business, I’m thrilled to be recognised for doing something I love,” she commented.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 13
Members needed for Hallmarking Council F
our members are required for the British Hallmarking Council, a partner body of the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills. The positions require experience in the trading or manufacture of articles of precious metals, a background in consumer protection or experience gained in another field of expertise relevant to the work of the Council, such as economics or quality assurance.
Members will be responsible for: working with the four UK Assay offices and monitoring the work they and their sub-offices carry out; supporting Trading Standards departments to ensure that hallmarking law is enforced; proposing legal changes and advising the Secretary for State for BIS and maintaining the high standards of the UK’s hallmarking facilities. The term of office is for an initial period of three years. Visit: www.gov.uk/nmro
TH March makes film L
eading UK jewellery insurance broker TH March has launched an animated film aimed at explaining the importance of expert valuating. The message can be viewed as a standalone three and a half minute film or as three separate shorter films that focus on specific questions like “Why do I need a Jewellery or Watch Insurance Valuation?” TH March’s MD, Neil McFarlane said: “When a customer needs to make a claim on their policy, as insurance brokers we always want the process to be as quick and easy as possible for them. An accurate valuation is priceless because it means we’ll already have all the information we need to be able to arrange for the replacement of a treasured item, usually with the customer’s chosen jeweller, very quickly. This is particularly important with bespoke designer pieces and it makes the whole process far less stressful for the person in their hour of need.”
ISO International diamonds Standard I
ndustry bodies, including CIBJO and AOB’s AnchorCert Gem Lab, have welcomed the publication of ISO International Standard 18323: ‘Jewellery — Consumer confidence in the diamond industry’, which specifies a set of permitted descriptors for the trade that are designed to be understood by consumers. The new ruling by the ISO explicitly defines a diamond as having been ‘created by nature’ and further notes that “the denomination ‘diamond’ without further specification always implies ‘natural diamond’”. The new standard defines nomenclature that must be used, and also that which cannot be used, in the buying and selling of diamonds, treated diamonds and synthetic diamonds. In particular, it outlines how to describe synthetic diamonds in a clear and accurate manner. The new Standard defines a synthetic diamond as “an artificial product that has essentially the same chemical composition, crystal structure and physical (including optical) properties as a diamond”.
14 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
S N I P P E T S Paul Spurgeon makes Bishop’s ring British designer Paul Spurgeon has created the Episcopal ring for the Bishop of Gloucester, Rachel Treweek. She was presented with the ring during her Consecration (as the first diocesan female bishop) at Canterbury Cathedral on 22nd July. The Episcopal ring is highly polished, sterling silver with two satin finished 18ct yellow gold contemporary crosses sitting alongside a 12.83ct oval cut, rich purple amethyst. Commenting on the design inspiration Paul said: “to me the ring represents a chalice which holds the amethyst, symbolising the blood of Christ”.
Ex-PR launches jewellery collection Adrienne Cline, whose previous roles have included press officer for Tateossian and Stephen Webster, has collaborated with fashion designer Punam Gudka to create a collection of jewellery – SB London, which will be launched at IJL (Q90i). “Our manifesto is to create exquisite, wearable jewellery for day or night, inspired by fashion,” says Cline. The line comprises stacking rings, multiple bracelets, hoop earrings, pendants and necklaces in gold-plated sterling silver set with white topaz and onyx.
New jeweller opens in Hatton Garden Earlier this month saw the launch of Hermione London, described by founders Hermione and Peter Logue as a “new breed of jeweller” which provides “a more personal and bespoke buying experience for the area”. Hermione operates from a showroom behind the scenes in Hatton Graden rather than a traditional retail outlet. This coupled with the fact that it does not hold stock of the entire range, as everything done is made to order, enables it to “dramatically reduce overheads compared to a traditional jeweller”.
Basel-based designer launches in UK Swiss jewellery designer Nana Fink has brought her hand-crafted jewellery to the UK. Drawing inspiration from antiquity, which she blends with a contemporary spirit, Fink presents timeless pieces that have all been created by artisans in Switzerland. In addition to the new Adorée collection, with its industrial art and design feel and made in mixed metals – gold and silver in particular – Fink has introduced a new Art Deco-influenced ring to the ‘Sophistiqué’ collection launched earlier this year. Nana Fink jewellery is stocked in Paul Smith’s Mayfair store.
The Executive Development Forum – actively delivering value to its members since 2005
The Executive Development Forum (EDF) provides a unique opportunity for independent jewellery retail owners and directors to meet with like-minded professionals in a confidential forum that fosters supportive and trusting relationships. This enables them to benchmark their business with other jewellery businesses, develop their strategic thinking, invest in their own professional development and, ultimately, grow their business.
The EDF provides our business with an outlet and a platform to benchmark our business against similar forward-thinking jewellers. At every meeting I have learnt something new that I have implemented into my business with almost immediate results.
For an annual subscription of £850 you and your business will benefit from the shared knowledge, experience and expertise of the EDF Members via: • a Q&A forum – whether you have a business issue or just seek guidance on products, policy, or suppliers. You ask the question and the members answer, quite often by return • a new flash service, where relevant business and industry articles are emailed to your inbox • a shared monthly performance report that enables you to benchmark yourself against other retail jewellery businesses • educational store visits which allow you to see and hear what other jewellers are doing in their stores • three regional group meetings a year giving you the opportunity to discuss in detail the issues and opportunities jewellery retailers face, as well as develop new business skills • the opportunity to attend the annual Oxford Congress when members meet to make new contacts and to hear from invited experts who contribute their unique perspective from their specialist fields
It’s time to sign on the line… Question – Are you paying the right salary to your manager? Answer – If you joined EDF you’d know. Question – Are you paying your sales staff too much? Answer – If you joined EDF you’d know. Question – Are your promotions working hard enough? Answer – If you joined the EDF you’d know. Question – Are you losing money by not charging your customers the market rate for their repairs? Answer – If you joined EDF you’d know. Question – Are you paying too much for your card payment processing? Answer – If you joined EDF you’d know. Question – Are you using the right data software for your business? Answer – If you joined EDF you’d know. Question – Are you tying up cash by not turning your stock enough? Answer – If you joined EDF you’d know. Membership of the EDF enables you to ask these questions and many others relating to the issues and detail of running a retail jewellery business. You will benefit from being able to benchmark your business with the other retail jewellers and from the shared experience and expertise of those who have probably been where you are now. Who knows, the first question you ask may even pay for your annual subscription – it has for others!
If you would like any further information visit the N.A.G. website and click the EDF button, or call Amanda White, Information and Membership Services Officer on 020 7613 4445, email her at email@example.com or speak to the EDF facilitator Michael Donaldson on 07817 305 122.
LouisE Prior appointed as new executive director of WFDB T
he World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB) has appointed Louise Prior as its executive director, effective from 1st August 2015. Prior was formerly a senior executive at De Beers. “Louise is a natural choice for this important position,” said WFDB president Ernie Blom. “She is a highly respected and well-known diamond industry professional with vast experience. During her many years with De Beers, Louise was responsible for the strategic development, implementation and management of global Sightholder services.” “With the ever-increasing challenges faced at every stage of the diamond pipeline, I am excited about supporting the Board in driving forward the WFDB’s initiatives and working closely with major industry players to ensure the continued success of the WFDB and its important work,” commented Prior.
new head of design appointed at KAlevala Jewelry Finnish jewellery A cclaimed designer, goldsmith and Master of Arts Kirsti Doukas has been appointed head of design for Finnish brand Kalevala Jewelry, which is the largest manufacturer of jewellery in Finland. Doukas was recently awarded the prestigious Pro Finlandia Medal of the Order of the Lion of Finland. My Millefiori is Doukas’ latest collection. Based on traditional glassmaking techniques, each piece of jewellery shows the riot of colour found in summer flowers. In glass and silver, each piece is handmade, one of a kind. The collection includes two sizes of pendant on silver chains embellished with pretty silver flowers, earrings and a bracelet in silver.
S N I P P E T S LVMH reports revenue increase Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, recorded revenue of 16.7 billion in the first half of 2015, an increase of 19 per cent. Organic revenue growth was six per cent compared to the same period in 2014. Organic revenue growth of the watches and jewellery business group was 10 per cent in the first half of 2015, with Tag Heuer’s partnership with Google and Intel cited as one reason for the upswing.
Rebecca launches men’s line at Vicenza The Italian jewellery brand Rebecca will be unveiling its new men’s range in Vicenza (5th–9th September). The sterling silver Uomo Collection features a masculine take on already best selling styles as well as a new collection of small silver plated orbs linked together by a chain to create an on-trend collection of rings, necklaces and bracelets. A new collection of cufflinks featuring the brand’s popular ‘My World’ alphabet letters and an array of masculine symbols are also available.
Gold demand set to rise Following a decline in the second quarter of 2015 – a 12 per cent year-on-year drop – the outlook for the second half of the year is more optimistic, according to a report by the World Gold Council. Although initially jewellery demand came under pressure from ‘negative consumer sentiment’, there are signs that the recent drop in the gold price has sparked a revival in demand since the end of June.
Increased desire for silver jewellery The Silver Institute has reported that through the first half of this year, silver experienced increased demand for jewellery and important industrial applications. The US-based global source also notes that silver jewellery – a mainstay of silver demand – was strong in the first half of 2015. GFMS Thomson Reuters, the precious metals consultancy, estimates that globally silver jewellery will grow five per cent in 2015.
On-line jewellery event launches Registration has opened for visitors and exhibitors for the Jewelry Virtual Expo (10th–11th November). The unique online jewellery event is dedicated to the global jewellery industry providing an opportunity to view new designs and enjoy live professional presentations (webinars) and virtual stands. Registration for visitors is free and exhibitors will be offered a discounted rate until 1st September.
Ralph Lauren expands ‘Automotive’ line US designer Ralph Lauren has added to his ‘Automotive’ collection of timepieces with five new watches for 2015, drawing inspiration from his own 1938 Bugatti Type 57SC Atlantic Coupe. The highlight of the new collection is the RL Automotive Skeleton, the brand’s first open-worked timepiece.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 17
Revealing all on our IJL stand T
should they wish to. The new Code, which will encompass and update the previous N.A.G. Code of Practice and the BJA Code of Ethics, will be ready for new memberships and renewals at the start of 2016.
he Association’s stand at IJL next month (6th – 8th September) promises to be even livelier and buzzier than usual. The show offers the first opportunity for the newly-unified BJA and N.A.G. to come together publically under the new banner of the National Association of Jewellers (NAJ). The major jewellery and watch industry event, and our combined stand (K30), also gives us the first chance to unveil the new Grant of Arms logo – there will be different versions for full and associate members, along with colour, black and white and grey scale variations (according to usage, such as on-line or print). Members of the teams from Birmingham and
London will be on-hand to explain further and full details will be sent OLYMPIA LONDON out to members post-IJL.
w w w. j e w e l l e r y l o n d o n .c o m Also during the show we will be presenting the details of the new proposed Code of Practice for NAJ members. At this point the Code is at the consultation stage and members will be told how they can access it and make comments,
he combined NAJ stand will provide a showcase for the ring which won the BJA’s recent competition staged in conjunction with the Fairtrade Organisation as part of its ‘I Do’ campaign to promote wedding jewellery in Fairtrade gold.
Jessica Mead’s Fairtrade ring
The winning ring, which beat off stiff competition from designers drawn from throughout the UK, was designed by Jessica Mead, an assistant designer at Harriet Kelsall Bespoke Jewellery. The ring has now been created in 18ct yellow gold by Hockley Mint, one of just a handful of British companies certified to produce in Fairtrade gold, with diamonds donated by Clark Diamonds which is also based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. The ring features a 50pt round brilliantcut lab certified diamond and half a carat of smaller stones. Jessica’s design symbolises the union of two people and their respective lives intertwining and becoming one whole. The wrapping knot detail around the diamond symbolises protection and support, while the open braiding detail on the shank symbolises each partner’s own path through life and the modern marriage being an equal partnership. Speaking about the competition Victoria Waugh, Fairtrade global business development manager on gold, said: “We couldn’t be happier that Jessica Mead has won the competition. HK Bespoke and its designers are well known for their commitment to working with gold from disadvantaged mining communities and their understanding of the need for Fairtrade gold is inspirational. The pioneering jewellers choosing to support our ‘I Do’ campaign are paving the way for change in the jewellery industry, whilst creating a better life for artisanal gold miners and their families.”
18 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
To be summarised in a new Consumer Charter, the code aims to be a three-way contract: member to Association, member to the consumer and Association to the consumer. How it will operate, how it will be policed and how disputes will be handled, will be fully detailed in due course. However, the objective is to drive professional integrity and standing for the industry and set NAJ members apart from non-members.
Diamond Jubilee Competition on show at IJL will be A lso the winning pieces in a further BJA-organised Diamond Design Competition staged to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee Edition of IJL. The event, which was open to all UK companies exhibiting at this year’s show, asked for designs incorporating exactly 60pts of diamonds – one for each of the 60 years since the show was founded. It was won by Rebecca Neill from Domino for her ‘Stella’ bracelet, while her colleague Anna-Anthea Carter was runner-up. Both the winning designs, which have since been manufactured by Domino, will be exhibited on its stand (D60) at the show.
Rebecca Neill’s winning bracelet
Seminar PICKS FOR YOUR SHOW diary ever, IJL promises a A scomprehensive schedule of industry seminars, presentations and workshops, a number of which the NAJ will be participating in. In addition throughout the three days the Association will be hosting a series of Business Advice Clinics and we hope that as many of you as possible will be able to find time to attend one or more of these. On Sunday 6th at 17.00 NAJ CEO Michael Rawlinson, together with Jonathan Pressley and Tim Lord, MD and general manager respectively of Pressley, will be holding a Clinic entitled ‘Making Effective Use of Sales Data to Run Your Business Better’ in the Olympia Room. The following morning, at 11.30 in the London Room, Rawlinson will be joined by the CMJ’s Willie Hamilton, Chris Garland of Bransom and Mike Burns of Pursuit to discuss ‘Retail in the Data Age: how to use facts, stats and numbers from your business to boost sales’. At 15.45 that afternoon Rawlinson together with Andrew Hinds, director of F Hinds, will be talking about ‘How to Solve a Problem like E-Commerce.’ Michael Donaldson, CEO of The Value Innovator, will be presiding over three repeat sessions of the NAJ workshop: ‘Running Your Business With Your Head Not Your Heart’ – vital for those interested in learning more about the management challenges behind achieving business success. The workshops will examine a broad range of topical issues, aimed to help participants get a clearer picture of their stores’ performance and sharpen their competitive edge, by introducing them to a handful of key performance indicators. All designed to improve the performance of their people, the profitability of their products, and the productivity of their processes.
Members in the swing at CMJ
he Association was delighted once again to stage its joint stand for up-and-coming designers at the CMJ’s recent Swing Time trade event held in Birmingham on 9th and 10th August. The exhibitors – all of whom were carefully selected by the Association and CMJ for the quality and appropriateness of their designs – were C6 by Anne Cohen, Biiju, Boudici, Collette Waudby, Esoteric, Muru and Yulan Jewellery (Burkmar). The eclectic mix of jewellery that they were showing was well received by CMJ members. “I came with an open mind but it’s been great, we’ve been getting lots of good comments,” said Joanna Bryen, owner of Biiju. “This has been perfect for getting awareness and it’s been nice to talk to the other designers – we’re all so different.” Designer Collette Wadby added: “The show feels like a good network opportunity. I’ve caught up with some people that I’d lost touch with and it’s a good opportunity to have conversations before IJL.” Producer members of The Association who would be interested in joining its group stand at the next CMJ meeting in Spring 2016 should contact Lindsey Straughton at Lindsey.firstname.lastname@example.org
Tweets raised profiles at Home & Gift
ocial media was humming at this year’s Home & Gift trade show in Harrogate as the BJA team progressed around the event broadcasting news about the hottest new designs from members’ stands. The Association’s commercial manager, Holly Burnett helped Holly Burnett a number of member exhibitors including Gemleys, Medley, Peace of Mind, Lovette and Co. and Rodgers and Rodgers to promote some of their latest lines by taking pictures of items on her ipad and Tweeting them to the BJA’s healthy 5,900-strong following. “We know that we are very well followed on Twitter and the BJA hash tag is a great way for our members to reach a wider audience than they might otherwise be able to achieve. It also gives their products the added endorsement that membership of the Association brings,” Holly told The Jeweller. Holly and her trusty ipad will also be on duty at IJL picking out exciting new products to promote so watch out for her Tweets on The BJA @The_BJA. The Association is also active on Facebook, Pinterest and on Instagram where it can be found at ‘The_bja’.
New member applications CMJ’s recent Swing Time trade event
JET tutor, EDDIE STANLEY completes Manchester 10k run
ddie Stanley, who has been a JET tutor for over 20 years and who was presented with a long-standing achievement award at the graduation ceremony earlier this year, completed the Great Manchester 10k Run in May. Mr Stanley, who raised £200 for The Stroke Association by running, has taken part in the run five times now and plans on another run later this year. He’s seen here with his family and ‘minders’. While on the subject of education, this year marks the 70th anniversary of the Association’s launching education and training for its members. A milestone that we’re justly proud of! We plan to mark the occasion at the 2016 Awards ceremony.
To ensure that N.A.G. Members are aware of new applications for N.A.G. Membership within their locality, applicants’ names are published below and on our website. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Eléonore Beahan on 0207 749 9411 or email: email@example.com within three weeks of receipt of this issue. Full Member Applications • BiggerDiamonds4Less, London • Lakha, Middlesex
Corporate Associate Applications • Radiant Diamond Consulting, Kent Personal Associate Applications • Megan Millar, Perthshire • Michael Wormack, London • Daniel Stent, Sussex • Deirdre Byrne, Co. Tipperary • Emma Thorby, Huntingdon
IRV applications If members wish to comment on any of these please contact Sandra Page on 029 2081 3615. New Member Applicants • Graham Tom, Graham Tom Consultancy, London.
Desperately seeking archive magazines! OK, so we’re not desperate exactly, but we’re certainly very keen to lay our hands on three particular 1994 back issues of N.A.G. Confidential (which later became The Jeweller) for our archive of magazines. So, calling all hoarders, we are looking for Nos. 296 June, 297 August and 299 December. Contact: firstname.lastname@example.org
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 19
MEMBER of the
Keith Gill, owner of Robert Gatward Jewellers and the newly-appointed membership director of the Houlden Group, talks about his business and his new role. It was a resounding success and within two years was turning over the same levels as the original store. In 2004 we opened Reading and in 2005 purchased Preston & Duckworth, Ipswich, from administrators. We quickly outgrew that and acquired a second site in Ipswich. In 2009 we purchased Ruffs of Windsor from administrators, to prevent its loss from the High Street. Later that year we opened a Hearts on Fire store in Bicester Village. What is the history of Robert Gatward? Robert Gatward (the business) was born in 1965 in Thame. It was the creation of Robert himself – cousin of Anna Gatward, still trading as Gatwards of Hitchin – who wanted to run his own retail jewellery business. Robert traded from the original store until his retirement in 1999, when my wife Bridie and I purchased the business as a going concern. We chose to keep the company name as it was well-recognised by the trade and customers alike. When did the other branches open? How do they differ from one another? We opened our second store in Abingdon nine months later – identical to the original in terms of size, product and aftersales but polar opposite in appearance. Thame then was all ad hoc cabinets, furnishings and display, dark woods and no ability for customers to see inside the store. Abingdon was bright, light with completely open glass-backed windows, taking away the mystique of the original store.
conversion rates have escalated. I’d love to say this is down to our sensational team, but if I’m honest it’s a clear indication that our clients are doing their homework online before they visit. In the good old days I was allowed to meet and entertain our clients on a daily basis, but alas with seven stores and more than 60 in the team, those days are just fond memories. What makes the stores stand out from others in the areas? All our stores have competition, but without blowing our own trumpet too loudly I feel that we’ve always been ahead of the curve. We’ve been able to spot what’s hot and lose what’s not almost instantly. And we have a team that is truly second to none and a desire to excel in customer service.
Describe your new role on the board. What changes can we expect? My role as membership director is in its infancy, but the board has identified the need for greater director responsibility to be focused in specific areas. These are very exciting times for Houlden and we see the need to develop relationships with existing and potential members even further. I very much enjoy engaging with my peers and their teams, as indeed I do with potential members. I hope to be the ‘turn to’ person when members need help or guidance, but more importantly to listen to their needs and make Houlden membership as important to members as members are to Houlden.
All the stores carry the strong RGJ brand and ethos but each is unique; we encourage our managers to run the stores as their own, retaining the personal touch and making our clients truly feel that they are in the competent hands of a family business. We are very fortunate that we still have every manager on board, evolving with us over the 16 years. How has RGJ changed over the years? We’ve seen many, many changes. Our watch brands were nonexistent originally and we’re now privileged to be partners with the cream of the crop. I didn’t see an engagement ring in the window when we took over and we now stock diamond jewellery retailing in excess of £100K. We had to encourage younger clients into our stores. It sounds terrible, but if we’d had a hard winter in our first year I fear we may have lost a significant proportion of our client base. Over the past few years our footfall has slowed, but
20 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
What benefits have you derived since joining the Houlden Group? I joined eight years ago, flattered to be able to join such wellestablished peers – the best of the best. Membership has given me the confidence and counsel to develop RGJ at a rate and to a level that I would not have dreamed possible – we’re at least three years ahead in terms of development, profitability and turnover. Houlden has created opportunity and opened doors for us. Most importantly we have access to an unlimited wealth of knowledge and expertise, offered free and without agenda, that most independent retailers would give their eye teeth for.
If you take advantage of N.A.G. courses, how have these benefited the stores? Who wouldn’t take advantage of the N.A.G. courses? They are world class standard for our industry and facilitate accessible education for our teams. RGJ use them as a selling tool while recruiting staff, knowing that they can attain independent, national qualifications that are CV-worthy. They represent excellent value for money and have become even more accessible with the introduction of online courses. When our team members complete JET they, without exception, become more confident in their role and more importantly, with our clients.
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LOUGHBOROUGH CONFERENCE 2015 T
On the Sunday David will ‘interview’ John, taking a look at his career over the last half a century, with illustrations of many of the beautiful and innovative pieces he has created. Delegates will also have an opportunity to purchase a copy of his new book, Precious Statements co-written with Russell Cassleton Elliott, which will literally be ‘just off the press’.* It lavishly illustrates John’s life told in anecdotes; how he became one of the first designer goldsmiths to set up his own shops – three in London (including Cheapside, which was frowned upon by other
goldsmiths) and one in Geneva at one time. He was also active in offering over 100 apprentices the opportunity and guidance in the industry and continues to advise on panels in design colleges and committees. As part of a select group that revolutionised jewellery design in the 1960s and ’70s, John Donald captured the late 20th century ideals of glamour and modernity. His designs and techniques continue to influence contemporary designers and he is still commissioned by international private and corporate clients. His work is seen in the collections of the V&A Museum, The Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths, various royal families as well as heads of industry and those who are simply fascinated by design. He
…he became one of the first designer goldsmiths to set up his own shops – enjoyed “a long and cherished” association with Princess Margaret, who not only loved jewellery, but was also interested in modern design, techniques and craftsmanship. In addition to this conversation, the day also includes a main presentation from Harry Levy, president of both the London Diamond Bourse and Gemmological Association of Great Britain (which is a Platinum Sponsor of this year’s Conference). Harry is aware that his presentation may be a little controversial
Picture: Mary McCartney
he Institute was delighted to learn from David Callaghan, N.A.G. vice president and co-opted member of the IRV Committee, that he had persuaded John Donald, the renown designer and jeweller, to be a main guest speaker at this year’s Loughborough Conference (taking place over the weekend of Saturday 12th to Monday 14th September). John doesn’t ‘do’ many talks, so the fact that he has agreed to take part in our Conference is all the more special.
as he looks at the subject of the ‘worth’ of items. Delegates are also able to choose to attend three 90-minute workshops from 25 on offer that day, covering a variety of subjects including insurance, hallmarking, diamonds, coloured gemstones, miniatures, cameos, gem-testing lighting, watches, valuation methodology and antique jewellery. And there’s more: in addition to John Donald’s new book, delegates can also purchase Alan Hodgkinson’s long awaited work, Gem Testing Techniques which he will be offering to delegates at the special Conference price of £115 (normally £128 plus £10 postage and packing). If you would like to attend the Conference for just the Sunday please contact the organiser
* The book is published by McNidder & Grace, ISBN 978-0-85716-128-4 and costs £65.
22 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
Feted designer and jeweller, John Donald, will be talking to David Callaghan about his career at the forthcoming Loughborough Conference
Sandra Page for details of costs on 029 2081 3615 or email firstname.lastname@example.org. The brochure and a booking form are available to download from the IRV website at www.jewelleryvaluers.org/ Loughborough-Conference. If you are unable to attend the Conference, but would like to buy a copy of John Donald’s book, contact the publisher: email@example.com (01646 689239) The 2015 N.A.G.’s Institute of Registered Valuers’ Conference is sponsored by:
on top of your business
If youâ€™re managing just one or several stores or are away from head office, our new cloud-based Live Sales Analyser allows you to use a simple web portal to instantly view the sales performance of any number of stores. You can analyse sales by product line, review staff sales, check discounts, monitor targets or set up staff competitions. Fully mobile-friendly, you can view your business from anywhere in the world with an internet connection on a desktop, laptop, tablet or smartphone.
Never feel out of touch again Find out more on Stand K31 at IJL
See it in action at www.bransom.co.uk
Your Technology Partner
FOCUS ON EDUCATION
Bransom Award winners Congratulations go to our Bransom Award winners for May and June
Sophie Graham The May Award goes to Sophie Graham of the Gold Emporium, Manchester, who has been working in the jewellery industry for almost three years. “I was attracted by the opportunity to work in the fast moving business of pawnbroking – it encompasses
Jemma Venables Our June Bransom Award winner, Jemma Venables, has worked for Allum & Sidaway since August 2014. “One thing that made me want to work within this industry is that I find it interesting how by using different materials and stones you can make almost anything in jewellery,” she explained. “There really is something for every type of person that walks through the doors.”
both the principles of traditional values and modern aspects to create a constantly exciting and educational job role,” she explained. “Also, it’s a huge privilege to work within such an encouraging and supportive team – one that believes in the importance of furthering education and training and actively supports my educational journey within the jewellery industry,” she added.
a piece of jewellery, it’s about understanding what you are selling them and using this knowledge to make sure the customer has the best possible experience,” she explained. “JET1 gave me the opportunity to learn more about this and improve my knowledge on a wide range of subjects. I found all of it useful – from learning completely new things to brushing-up on what I already knew.”
“Winning the Award is overwhelming – it’s such an accolade when the competition was so fierce due to the sheer amount of other excellent entries.” She admitted that the whole learning process of completing the JET1 course was enjoyable. “It’s not just about being able to sell a customer
Sophie is in no doubt about the value of the JET1: “It has already helped me to progress, giving me the confidence to not only talk to a customer about a piece, but also the knowledge and understanding to back this up. I can now at least try to answer any questions thrown at me! I would whole-heartedly
particular. “The information and detail was enlightening and I loved the assignments where we designed a piece of jewellery with our birthstone. Here we could be creative and imaginative but still using our knowledge,” she added.
recommend it to others and is keen to move on to JET2.
“One useful part of the course was all the information we were given on the website – this helped in guiding me through my assignments and also I have used
“One useful part of the course was all the information we were given on the website – this helped in guiding me through my assignments and also I have used these pages to help me in store when dealing with customers. I now feel more confident in all areas.” “Shocked but happy” that she was the latest winner, Jemma told us that the element of the course that she enjoyed was learning about the different gemstones, diamonds in
these pages to help me in store when dealing with customers. I now feel more confident in all areas.” Having gained knowledge and confidence through completing JET1 Jemma would definitely
24 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
Backing up tutor Anne Kings’ opinion that Jemma has been “a superb student from day one” and is “well-suited to being a confident sales consultant”, moderator Eddie Stanley added that “this piece of JET1 assignment work was a pleasure to read and graded with a pass result of A”. He praised her “excellent description and explanation of the diamond term ‘fire’, and the benefits of the diamond being well cut”. He also said that Jemma covered all the other elements of the diamond grading classification in a truly professional manner. “The critical part of the final assignment – where participants demonstrate their ability to communicate the various elements of the 4Cs to a prospective client – was exceptionally well answered.
recommend this course to anyone within the jewellery industry; it would be helpful to those fairly new like myself, as well as those who have spent many years in the profession. It’s an opportunity to learn of new developments and brush-up on other aspects.” Praising Sophie’s “excellent work” course moderator Eddie Stanley explained that “her final assignment included several extra additions from the usual scripts received for marking [such as] an excellent section on the cutting process employed in fashioning the rough crystal of diamond to the finished stone, the ideal cut for the diamond and the benefits this gave to the way diamond handles light. The final section on the repair or restoration of the diamond ring was very comprehensively covered. Sophie demonstrated that she has a highly developed sense of customer care.”
Jemma clearly defined them as would be appropriate during a selling situation.” He also praised her identification of issues involved in the repair/ restoration of a Victorian brilliant cut diamond ring, inspected with a 10x, and the various options put to the customer. “It is obvious from this piece of course work that Jemma is very professional and can provide sound technical advice on items brought in to the service section of the company she works for.”
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stone – tanzanite – In the fourth of our series on gemstones, Andrew Fellows FGA DGA, a gemmology and diamond tutor at Gem-A, passes on some of the facts and myths about tanzanite.
n a series on popular gems, arguably the stone that should follow ruby, emerald and sapphire is one that the public is becoming increasingly enamoured of and we’ve all heard of… zoisite. Well, more exactly a specific variety, found only in one locality on Earth, and even that will probably be mined out in the next few decades. This stone, said to be a thousand times rarer than diamond, is tanzanite. The geology that resulted in this unique stone will probably never be fully understood, but events happened millions of years ago that combined to form a truly one-off occurrence, in which tanzanite was created. Today, all mining is carried out in an area of under 10 square miles, and the odds of tanzanite being found elsewhere on the planet are thought to be less than one in a million. Colour effects and size matters Tanzanite is a specific colour of zoisite, being a balance of blue and purple, giving it a very rare effect in the world of gemstones – the ability to appear different colours when viewed in different directions. In gemmological terms this effect is known as pleochroism, and means that depending upon how you angle it, tanzanite can appear blue, purple, or a brownish burgundy colour. As with the vast majority of gemstones, tanzanite can be heat-treated to enhance these colours, and once this is done, the less desirable brown colour is removed, leaving just the purple and blue. It’s then down to the skill of the cutter to balance these colours in the finished stone, giving the wearer the ideal combination of these two shades. Most of the rough crystals mined start out with this brown/burgundy colour as the dominant shade, and it’s not until heat is applied (either by man, or, sometimes, by nature) that the true beauty is revealed.
Diamond-set tanzanite from the David Jerome Collection, to be auctioned by John Pye
26 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
62.30ct (left) and 133.30ct tanzanite stones from the David Jerome Collection
There are several stories as to how it was discovered, but it could either have been a result of a bushfire, that heated the stones, transforming them from regular brown into their more noticeable blue colour, which were then found after the fire died out, or, possibly more believable, a local huntsman found the blue stones, and, thinking them to be sapphires, showed them to a prospector, who then brought them to the world. The truth probably lies somewhere between these two, but they add to the mystery of and magic of the stone. Most crystals are relatively small, hence the size of stones seen on the market, but occasionally large crystals are found – one of the largest to date weighs 16,839ct, and is named ‘The Mawenzi’, after the second highest peak of Kilimanjaro… saving the name of the highest peak just in case they find a larger one! The largest faceted tanzanite currently weighs 737.81ct, but one that may be better known is the ‘Queen of Kilimanjaro’ – a mere 242ct. Reaching the market Tanzanite is a relative newcomer to the jewellery trade, and its popularity is partly down to its colour and rarity, but also down to Tiffany & Co., in America, to whom word of this new material was passed (by Campbell Bridges, who became its tanzanite consultant). Naming it ‘tanzanite’ after its origin in the the foothills around Kilimanjaro, Tiffany created an advertising campaign that introduced this unique stone to the world, and the rest, as they say, is history. Tanzanite quickly became accepted as a gemstone and, although it can be brittle (on a par with emeralds), and so not ideally suited for everyday wear, is perfect for that special occasion. Since its introduction in 1967, tanzanite has grown significantly in popularity, and now is almost as well known as diamond! Although it’s officially the birthstone for December, and represents 24 years of marriage, tanzanite also has a tradition that has followed it from its origins in Tanzania, where blue gifts were presented at the birth of new babies, making it the perfect Christening gift. Gemmologically, tanzanite is a member of the zoisite family, that can be found in a range of colours, although technically only the blue/purple variety can be called tanzanite. The refractive index is relatively high at 1.69 to 1.70, which, with its birefringence, creates the brilliance and sparkle that makes this stone stand out from other blue stones. It has a similar hardness to emerald, and can suffer from the same levels of damage from impacts, but despite this, tanzanite has achieved a status of being a niche market gem, and with its limited supply and availability, this truly is a stone that’s ‘here today, gone… within years!’
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BUSINESS SUPPORT: SECURITY
Better safe… Sadly, security will always be a jewellery industry issue… and, of course, it’s one that amounts to far more than simply lost revenue. However, armed with the right weapons and intelligence, the industry can fight back. Over the following pages we offer a round-up of news, views and updates to help you keep criminals at bay.
The mistake the store in question made was to tell ‘Mr Hughes’ to contact his bank rather than report the suspicious transaction/ customer to their merchant acquirer/provider. This mistake has resulted in the store taking the loss of 73,000 Euros. ‘Mr Hughes’ was able to complete the transaction using the stolen card as he knew enough about the victim to answer all security questions put to him by Barclaycard.
Members are advised to contact their merchant acquirer/provider if they have any suspicions about a customer or high value transaction; they are there to offer advice, help and assistance. If the customer is legitimate, they will not mind waiting while you conduct further checks and enquiries with your merchant acquirer/provider.
Over May, June and July the industry has thankfully seen a decrease in the amount of robberies. This compares with an extremely busy and worrying start of the year for our members, where a number of violent and high value crimes were committed by both UK and European criminals. However, during these summer months SaferGems has noticed an increase in fraudulent activity. We have recorded 54 incidents of fraud and circulated over 20 fraud-related alerts to both the industry and police. It is believed that in excess of £200,000 worth of goods has been fraudulently obtained. This is compared to 26 incidents of fraud during the same period in 2014. The majority of the activity that our members encountered involved identity fraud with criminals using fake, stolen or cloned credit cards, driving licences, passports and utility bills, in an attempt to obtain goods – mostly high end watches. We continue to work closely with credit card companies, police and other enforcement agencies so we can provide our members with as much advice and support as possible, however fraud can be difficult to combat and guard against. Fraud can affect members across the board, whether it be jewellers, manufacturers, designers, suppliers, etc. We’ve recently even seen UK fraudsters targeting the Antwerp Diamond District. Having liaised with UK Barclaycard they have informed me that the same credit card was used in all three transactions The fraud was committed by ‘Mr Gareth Davies’ who provided the credit card details over the phone. The male pictured in the related SaferGems alert is either an associate of the fraudster or a smartly dressed taxi driver who was sent to collect the goods.
28 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
Fraud can affect members across the board, whether it be jewellers, manufacturers, designers, suppliers etc. It’s not all bad news though – SaferGems has had some success stories so far this year. In May the Edinburgh City division of Police Scotland was made aware via SaferGems that a group of ‘travelling fraudsters’ were in the area. Police were informed that the group had carried out offences at jewellery stores within the city. As a result of this information, police attended the scene and arrested two Romanian men. Both were found to be in possession of numerous cloned bankcards and fraudulently obtained items. The men were subsequently charged with 15 offences of fraud across Scotland and North East regions. Also, as a direct result of a SaferGems alert being circulated to police, a man from Rochdale was identified as being responsible for a number of fraudulent transactions at stores across England and Scotland. He was using fraudulently obtained pre-loaded gift cards in an attempt to obtain high value watches. Following his arrest at a store in Sheffield in July, Northumbria Police are looking to charge him with money laundering offences. Lee Henderson, SaferGems
DNA spray scares robbers away Jewellery stores have seen a significant reduction in robberies thanks to a new spray system. In particular a number of independent jewellery shops in Lancashire are being protected from smash and grab raids by using the DNA spray, which can be integrated into an existing shop alarm system or as a stand-alone system with its own panic button. Warning signs and window stickers are supplied to alert potential criminals that the system is in use and to dissuade them from targeting the protected premises. Designed as a deterrent to robbery and smash and grabs, the SelectaDNA spray system, developed by security company Selectamark, contains a forensic solution unique to each location. This means that criminals can be linked to the scene of a crime. Consisting of spray heads that can be fitted above windows and doors of premises, the system is triggered as an intruder enters the property. The system emits a fine mist of SelectaDNA solution onto the offender that stays on the skin for weeks and is only visible under an ultraviolet light. The solution contains a UV tracer and a unique DNA code, linking intruders irrefutably to the crime scene. James Brown, MD of Selectamark, said: “The fact that there have been no break-ins or attempted break-ins since the systems have been in place is excellent news for the shop owners. Activation of the system is not the goal, but rather to make would-be criminals
think twice. However, if an offender was sprayed with the forensic mist, and the case went to trial, there is irrefutable evidence to ensure conviction. This is why SelectaDNA is such a strong deterrent.” SelectaDNA spray has also been successfully deployed in Europe, Australia and New Zealand to protect jewellery stores among others. A group of pawnbrokers in Sweden is using the system after a review was undertaken to look at better ways to protect their valuable stock, which includes jewellery, clocks, watches and antiques. There has also been success using SelectaDNA in upmarket jewellery stores in France. In the Netherlands, a crime reduction initiative in Rotterdam was introduced involving 30 shops including luxury boutiques and highend jewellers that were protected with the spray. During the pilot scheme, there were no robberies reported at these stores, and an overall reduction in robberies of 65 per cent in the areas where the sprays were installed. Luxury retailer Louis Vuitton is also using the spray. The company has deployed the hi-tech spray system to successfully protect delivery areas in depots in the north of England.
...if an offender was sprayed with the forensic mist, and the case went to trial, there is irrefutable evidence to ensure conviction. Selectamark
Getting the most from a Bandit Security fogging system Since security fogging systems were first used, the criminal fraternity has evolved its reactions to such products. During the early years the criminal would flee the moment a fogging system activated. This was predominantly because their use was to deter the ‘opportunist’ burglar who was mainly targeting cigarettes in petrol station shops, supermarkets and corner stores during out of business hours. Today the use of security fogging has considerably expanded; it is now a ‘robbery’ deterrent during working hours as well, and protects banks, cash and bullion centres and jewellers, particularly from smash and grab incidents. As applications have broadened, so too has the type of criminal perpetrating the crimes, ranging initially from the opportunist thief to today’s professional, highly organised and experienced individuals and gangs. And they have a much greater understanding of fogging systems, particularly in their strengths and weaknesses. What they know now is: – How quickly a system begins ejecting fog once intrusion is detected It is of paramount importance to have a system that reacts to an activation signal in the shortest possible time frame in order to minimise both the window of opportunity to steal, as well as that of possibly compromising the fogging system itself. The Fog Bandit in this instance ejects fog at full power in just 0.1 of a second from the moment an activation signal is received!
– How quickly and densely the fog will fill the protected area The area/assets requiring protection must be removed from sight (fog density reducing eye-to-object visibility to under 50cm) in under 10 seconds. With the known performance figure of the Fog Bandit producing 28 cubic metres of fog per second with object-to-eye density of 30cm, it is simple to calculate the settings of a Bandit unit to meet the optimum obscuration levels in the required time. Understanding the criminals objectives and concerns: • The first and paramount priority is to NOT GET CAUGHT! • Maximise the financial reward with respect to the risk taken • Ideally leave NO forensic evidence
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 29
BUSINESS SUPPORT: SECURITY
So, Bandit recommends: • Hinder access to valuable items with obstacles or reinforced glass; criminals don’t want to become trapped or leave traces of DNA through injury • Clearly display Fog Bandit warning signage on windows and doors. Bandit UK publishes its successes so that the criminal fraternity knows it is dealing with a powerful and reliable system A score to be proud of: Fog Bandit 29 – Raiders 0! Over the last four years Fog Bandit has successfully thwarted 29 robberies with zero injuries to the people exposed to what is typically a most frightening experience. Most importantly, NO activation failures have ever been experienced. In the majority of cases across the UK, there have been no, or just minor, stock losses. Confidence in the Fog Bandit helps empower staff to protect themselves and their businesses by creating an element of control in an otherwise control-less and shocking encounter. Fog Bandit’s reliable and proven approach is trusted by thousands of UK jewellers, their staff and business stakeholders on a daily basis. The new website www.bandituk.co.uk is the best place to access all information and includes latest news, a video library with live CCTV and test activation footage, case study applications and client testimonials.
Real-time mobile app for smartphones or tablets Checkpoint Systems inc., a leading global supplier of merchandise availability solutions for the retail industry, has launched Evolve-Store, a real-time app for smartphones and tablets that supports real-time electronic article surveillance (EAS) and organised retail crime (ORC) event management. The app was developed in response to retail customer requests for an easy means of ensuring that store associates leverage EAS investments appropriately, comply with store shoplifting policies and have EAS systems always turned on and operating properly. Some of the features in the Evolve-Store app enable retailers to measure and improve consumer conversion rates through real-time visibility of the number of shoppers in stores.
By monitoring, measuring and managing an EAS programme, retailers can deter opportunistic shoplifters The app also measures policy compliance by managing response times to alarm events. By monitoring, measuring and managing an EAS programme, retailers can deter opportunistic shoplifters and ORC activity, reducing shrink and increasing shelf availability, sales and profits. This, in turn, improves staff confidence and engagement with the EAS programme, ensuring a significant improvement on the return on investment. Additional features include a staff panic alert to request help from associates; an EAS night-save feature to save power when the store is closed; the ability to test, mute or disable EAS systems remotely; and multi-user logins for each smart device. Stores can also monitor inventory more closely and replenish ‘true’ out-of-stocks, so merchandise sought by customers will likely be available on shelves when purchasing online through click and collect, or buying directly in stores. Moreover, studies have shown that shoppers feel safer in monitored retail environments.
Stanley Security GB launches new website Stanley Security GB has recently launched its updated and expanded website, as part of its continued commitment to improving the security and safety of people and their daily environment. The website (www. stanleysecurity.co.uk) facilitates and significantly improves access to information, products and services addressing the needs of customers in the security, fire detection and life safety, access control, time and attendance and communication markets. The fresh new site offers customers, partners, prospects and the editorial community an easier way to learn about Stanley’s services and solutions and also to allow the visitors to browse information based on their own choice. The intuitive navigation easily helps users locate and identify solutions, sectors, monitoring service and customer service, plus much more. As well as now being mobile-optimised, the
new search function is powerful yet simple, facilitating faster access to information on the site using a specific subject or keyword – so all visitors should be able to access content easily on the go. Customers now have the opportunity to link directly to Twitter and Google+ to foster improved communication with clients. Stanley will be constantly updating its content with helpful information, articles, company announcements and client successes in the News section. ➥
30 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
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BUSINESS SUPPORT: SECURITY
new visibility standards for toughened glass Specialist glass processing company Romag has introduced a new toughened laminated glass range incorporating the highest levels of transparency and durability on the market.
Latest innovations in security glass Glassolutions Saint-Gobain provides an insight into the type of security glass that is now available to protect jeweller shop fronts.
The company’s new AirGlaz product combines special anti-reflective properties with maximum strength for bespoke high value item showcase applications, where absolute visual clarity and high levels of protection are priority considerations. The new range has been created using low iron float glass that incorporates the most advanced magnetron sputter coating, which is then strengthened and toughened using advanced thermal treatment processes.
Until recently the ‘security glass’ recommended to jewellers was either two or three pieces of glass laminated together with either one or two Polyvinyl Butyral interlayers. It was designed to withstand attack with baseball bats or house bricks, the ‘traditional tools’ used when assaulting ‘float’ glass (also known as ‘annealed’ or ‘plate’ glass). Sadly, smash and grab raiders have since moved on to other weapons. However, there is a new generation of visually superior glass for highly enhanced security glazing. Glass-clad polycarbonate (GCP) is impenetrable when attacked with extreme prejudice with any hand held tools including full-length woodman’s axes, picks and sledgehammers. GCP can be retrofitted into most existing shopfronts, door and display cabinet frames thus profoundly enhancing security performance in the most cost effective way. It is absolutely no different in appearance, clarity and transparency to standard conventional laminated security glass. It does not distort whatsoever. It can be manufactured using low iron glass which delivers excellent clarity and ensures true colours are seen and optimum vision quality is achieved when looking through the glass. The testing regimen, LPS 1270, is particularly rigorous; real people intelligently and aggressively attacking the GCP with a wide range of tools over a 10 minute period. To pass the test, the GCP must not be penetrated whatsoever.
This creates a tough, scratch-resistant surface with unique optical properties that allow light transmission of 97 per cent and reflection of less than one per cent. This compares to normal architectural float glass that typically has a light transmission of 90 per cent and a reflection of eight per cent. In addition, the carefully tailored anti-reflective coating utilised in AirGlaz has been specially designed so that any reflection caught in the one per cent factor appears in a dark blue rather than the pink area of the spectrum, helping to remove unwanted glare and prevent distortion. AirGlaz can be supplied as single or double sided non-reflective units and can also be combined with protective interlayers to create a bonded laminate suitable for a wide range of specialist safety and security glazing applications. Romag’s manufacturing processes are fully certified to ISO9001 and it also holds both ISO14001 and ISO 18001 certification.
Medusa – a new, hidden, deterrent The message to any criminal tempted to hit a jeweller’s shop displaying the Medusa™ logo is, “don’t waste your time!” according to its manufacturers and industry experts. The system, developed on the back of the same technology that safeguards ATMs and cash in transit, is a revolutionary new concept that aims to stop robbers reaching their target. Medusa™ works by first blocking unauthorised access to valuables, and second by preventing their removal from the scene of the crime. Once activated, it does this by rapidly filling showcases with an inert, expanded foam that encloses the contents in an impenetrable block of high density material. It is then impossible to either grab individual items or remove the enclosed items. Even if it were removable the fact that the robber is now dealing with an unwieldy burden will hinder his escape – making for easy apprehension – and prevents rapid dispersal
of the loot. This last point is important because criminals rely on breaking down their haul, either to transport it, or pay off foot-soldiers. Medusa™ can be retrofitted or incorporated into bespoke cabinets, so the extra security measures will be unobtrusive. n
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 33
BUSINESS SUPPORT: INSURANCE
Staying cyber-safe Your reputation has taken years to build and in this digital age news, good and bad, spreads rapidly. It can take minutes to cause lasting damage to a business… are you cyber-safe, asks Neil McFarlane of TH March.
he technological advances we have witnessed in recent years, along with the exponential growth of the internet in this so-called ‘digital era’, far out-strips anything that could have been imagined just a decade ago. And while it is true that the internet has brought forth a multitude of benefits to all business sectors by lowering barriers to trade and allowing people across the globe to research, buy, advertise, sell as never before, we must be aware that such opportunities will to some extent increase vulnerability as our growing dependence on cyberspace opens up our lives to new risks.
...many others have never even had their computer systems tested... Does that describe you? The systems on which we now rely so heavily and the information those systems
contain – often customer data, credit card and bank details, sensitive company information, etc. – can be compromised, damaged or indeed stolen. So, while it is clearly vital that we continue to fully embrace the benefits of the digital age, we must be aware too of the need to maintain our ‘cyber security’. Quite simply this means thinking carefully about protecting all your computer-based systems and the information stored within from threats, both internal and external. Many businesses, particularly smaller ones, still don’t have in place an internet security policy for employees and many others have never even had their computer systems tested to ensure that they are protected from threat. Does that describe you? The widespread belief that small businesses are unlikely targets for cyber attack is naive to say the least when in fact the idea of a perceived ‘soft target’ often proves to be a strong attraction to criminals. A recent study by
34 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
the global software security firm Symantec found that 40 per cent of attacks are against organisations with fewer than 500 employees. In a survey carried out by the Department for Business, Innovation and Skills (BIS) last year it was discovered that 36 per cent of the worst cyber security breaches in 2012 were caused by inadvertent human error. The BIS survey also found that the vast majority of small businesses believe that cyber security should be a high priority. A claim scenario following a card processing system being hacked might look like this: • The costs of forensic experts to find what data was stolen • The costs of notifying the (sometimes vast numbers of) individuals whose data has been stolen • The costs of credit monitoring for the affected individuals to make sure they suffer no ongoing losses after the breach • The costs of PR to mitigate the reputational damage to the business after the breach • The costs of a breach coach to prepare the business for investigation • The professional representation costs for the investigation by the payment card industry • Legal representation and defence costs for any legal action that was brought Equip yourself with some knowledge There is a huge amount of advice and assistance available on the subject of cyber security, rather ironically, much of it is easily accessed via the internet. The following websites are a good place to start looking (if you haven’t already!) www.getsafeonline.org/businesses http://ico.org.uk/for_ organisations www.gov.uk/government/ policies/keeping-the-uk-safe-incyberspace http://www.fsb.org.uk
Here are some simple steps you can take to protect your business: 1. Staff training is essential because all your employees should be aware of the possibility of cyber security risks. This may mean bringing in outside help, but it will be money well spent. 2. Install, use and regularly update your antivirus and antispyware software on every computer used in your business. This is a sensible precaution for home computers too. 3. Use an internet firewall for your connection. 4. Download and install software updates for your operating systems and applications as and when they become available. 5. Always make back-up copies of important business data and information. For jewellers this of course includes security video too. 6. Control physical access to your computers and make certain that you know who has access and when. If there is ever a breach this knowledge will help to establish who, if anyone, within your organisation, was involved. 7. Make sure that your Wi-Fi network is secure. In your business premises, make sure the Wi-Fi is secure and hidden. 8. Set up password-protected user accounts for each employee and make sure that these are not ‘shared’. 9. Give your employees access to data and information strictly on a ‘need to know’ basis. 10. If you don’t have a dedicated IT department within the organisation, strictly limit the authority to install software onto your systems. 11. Regularly change your passwords. 12. Speak to your insurance broker about arranging cover to protect you and your business against cyber threats. Don’t simply assume that you are already adequately covered.
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Future trends 2016 s
If your visit to IJL, Autumn Fair, Top Drawer et al. is likely to find you thinking about what will be new in 2016 (and even beyond), then we think it might be useful to go armed with a few ideas of trends to watch out for. Swarovski’s Gem Visions has its crystal-encrusted, triple ring-clad finger on the pulse of all things futuristic and here we highlight the four key directions that – however you interpret them – must surely have legs.
he forecasters at Swarovski begin by emphasising that while technological advances and original ideas are key, their over-arching theme of ‘Then, Now, Next’ remembers to pay homage to the traditions of the past. This not only references the timelessness of fine jewellery, but also age-old know-how – the craftsmanship of artisans. To arrive at the trend directions, the team of industry experts identifies the driving ‘cultural megatrends’. Looking to 2016 these include Modern Day Artisans (man-made now a virtue and key to the future of the luxury industry), Schooling (the passing of knowledge from teacher to pupil and from craftsman to apprentice), Jewellery as Art (satisfying the hunger for exceptional jewels), New Retail Environment (from spectacular galleries and showrooms to luxury on-line platforms, boundaries are being re-defined), Wearable Technologies (gadgets become jewels), Mindful Living (ie gemstones as medicinal aids), Gathering Together (revival of communal traditions to reinvigorate social interactions) and New Ethics (the ‘made in’ revolution – the desire to know the origin of products and CSR).
36 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
MAGIC This trend focuses on the play of opposites, the seen and unseen, illusion and reality, and inspires designers to work with technologies that blur the boundaries between the physical and the digital. Jeweller, goldsmith and gem-cutter have become master magicians – think particularly of the new settings that make stones ‘float’ with little or no visible metal.
Jo Hayes Ward
Matthew Campbell Laurenza
Magic colours alternate between light and shadow, as deep night blue and burgundy lighten into brilliant pale blue, lilac and white. Multiple facets create the perception of infinite depths, alongside cuts and shapes that produce an illusion of suspension through invisible settings.
Eternity celebrates the everlasting and expresses the desire to recreate the past by breathing new life into what has been. Jewels steeped in a heritage that recall personal milestones are passed down through generations and are emblematic of this trend. Their timeless designs incorporate icons and signatures that can at times express a strong mathematical or philosophical bent.
Beverley Hills Jewellers
Here colours explode in a lavish palette that emphasises shades like honey, amber and citrine that work well with deep blue and other intensely dark tones. Flashes of brilliant orange, electric blue, and striking greens mix with warm, off-whites. Materials and textures are complex and multi-layered, worked by traditional, ancient metalworking techniques that are combined with modern technology.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 37
A masculine palette of industrial greys and khakis are featured, but softened by highlights of vibrant orange and pink. The accent is on the innovative use of 3D printing, ceramics, gold, carbon and elastoplastic. Components include plastics, presetting elements, synthetic stones, treated stones, intriguing coatings and platings for metals, new metals and mixed metals. Stone cuts are strong and dynamic, with defined edges, corners, and angles such as triangle, square, baguette, marquise and edged cuts.
Beyond bespoke, Radical Craft centres on the ‘maker movement’, an offshoot of contemporary studio culture. An evolution of the prevailing DIY mania, it reflects the growing importance of a client’s involvement in the entire creative and craft process behind a jewel. This theme stresses creativity, individuality and originality and encompasses engineeringoriented disciplines such as electronics, robotics, 3D printing and the use of CNC tools.
BODY ART An exploration of jewellery’s intimate relationship with the human form turning it into an installation space for new forms of jewels, such as hand ornaments, hand jewels (across the palm of the hand) and ear cuffs. The trend is expanding with innovative ideas for body or corsage jewels, new shapes and forms of ear jewels plus jewels for the head and hair, back, upper arm and shoulder.
Body Art colours
Body Art moods
Melting shades of pink and burgundy and light pink tones with flashes of amethyst and turquoise help Body Art flatter the skin. With an emphasis on texture, organic materials evoke different skin surfaces like scales and leather, while highly refined and sophisticated, precious metals blend with the synthetic. This renewed interest and respect for man-made materials creates a perfect arena for synthetic stones such as Swarovski Zirconia or Alpinite Castable, as well as gemstones enhanced by technology like the TCFTM coloured Swarovski Genuine Topaz.
Founded in 1895 in Austria, Swarovski designs, manufactures and markets high-quality crystals, genuine gemstones and created stones as well as finished products such as jewellery, accessories and lighting. n
38 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
Image courtesy of Pembe Club (see p42)
A Diamond of a Show! This year marks the 60th anniversary of International Jewellery London, and, as might be expected, the Diamond Jubilee edition promises to be a sparkling, unmissable show. Over the following pages you will find an over-view of IJL’s key events and features as well as a ‘look-book’ of highlights from new and established exhibitors.
here are many reasons why a jewellery retailer should have IJL inked in the diary a whole year ahead, but without question one major draw is the fact that the show attracts a comprehensive mix of exhibitors – from cutting-edge established designers and international brands, to fine jewellery manufacturers and emerging designer-makers. This year, as added incentive (particularly for those seeking something previously unseen), IJL can boast over 150 brands and designers who are first-timers. The likes of Ivanka Trump and Beverley K from the US, Bykovs’ Jewelry House from Russia, Anita Sondore from Latvia, Fervor Montreal from Canada and DezireD Jewels from India have been joined by a healthy clutch of returnees to the event, including
Ieva Mikutaite at WB
Andrew Geoghegan, Alex Monroe, Shaun Leane and Sarah Jordan. Adding to the eclectic mix are a number of international pavilions (South Africa, Sri Lanka, Hong Kong, South Asia for instance) topped by the inaugural IJL initiative, Market Focus, which for 2015 has Italy in its sights. Fope, Ponte Vecchio and Bronzallure are among the group’s brands. Designers are important draws at shows and this year IJL is delivering a bumper crop. The Designer Brands area will feature a group of award-winning, worldrenowned names. Among those to check out are: Alexis Dove, C6 by Anne Cohen of Denmark, Dower & Hall, Sheila Fleet, Andrew Geoghegan, Sarah Jordan, Missoma, Tezer of Germany, Babette Wasserman and Colette Waudby. And, as ever, IJL plays host to and supports emerging talent, so be sure to visit the KickStart stand (see p56 for details), Bright Young Gems – five final year students and New Designers in the Gallery: Kassandra Lauren Gordon, Betty Balaba, Charlotte Parkhill, Sienna Bella and Love Lily Rose. A number of exhibitors will
40 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
be upping their IJL visibility by sponsoring certain elements of the show. For instance, Bykovs’ Jewelry House (whose creations can be found in museums such as the Hermitage, St Petersburg) is sponsoring the IJL Diamond Club Lounge; DezireD Jewels is supplying the lanyards and Links of London and Folli Follie are responsible for the new IJL app, which will enable visitors to keep up to date on new show features, browse seminars, view exhibitor lists, etc.
w w w. jof e wseminars e l l e r y l(and o n dit’s o nalways .c o m Talking worth finding time to attend a few) this year’s programme includes leading entrepreneurs among the speakers. Sally Heath, Ecommerce director of fashion brand New Look, is one and Laura Tenison MBE, founder of global, multi-channel brand JoJo Maman Bébé, will be delivering ‘Doing Well, Whilst Doing Good’. Jesper Nielsen, Endless’ CEO, will share his vision in ‘Building The World’s Next Super Brand’ and the NAJ’s workshops entitled ‘Running Your
Caliz (see p52)
Business With Your Head, Not Your Heart’ will examine a broad range of topical issues. For the full run-down of seminars visit: www. jewellerylondon.com/seminars Awards and competitions are always integral to IJL. The Editor’s Choice winners were announced recently – the eight categories include ‘Diamonds in Design’, won by Sarah Ho and ‘In Stile Italiano’, picked up by Cesari Diffusione. Meanwhile, KickStarter LaParra Jewels was voted the winner of the ‘People’s Choice’ award. Visit the NAJ stand (home of the unified N.A.G. and BJA) and you can see
One attraction on the Weston Beamor stand will be jewellery by Ieva Mikutaite, a recent graduate from Glasgow School of Art and the winner of the Goldsmiths’ Company Prize for Jewellery at this year’s New Designers Exhibition. Mikutaite has long wished to make her jewellery in gold, rather than silver, but the cost of the raw material has been prohibitive. Now, thanks to the generosity of WB, which is sponsoring the full cost of the metal required, she is able to make a new bracelet design in her ‘Articulation Collection’ for display at IJL. And finally… for something completely different, be sure to watch one of the Catwalk shows on Monday as a polar bear will be making an appearance (with its Inuk trainer, obviously), thanks to Arctic
Arctic Circle Diamond’s Polar Bear
IJL FACTFILE Date: 6th – 8th September, 2015 Venue: Olympia Grand, Kensington, London W14 8UX Opening times: Sun 6th September: 10am – 7pm Mon 7th September: 9am – 6pm Tues 8th September: 9am – 5pm Registration: www.jewellerylondon.com/register Circle Diamonds. Brand MD Judith Lockwood will be explaining how its diamonds are polar bear-friendly and why it’s ‘cool to care’. Oh, OK,
so it’s not a real (man-eating) beast but an animatronic puppet. But still… like so much at IJL, definitely worth catching!
the ring, which won the BJA/ Fairtrade ‘I Do’ competition, while on Domino’s stand there’ll be winning and runner-up designs in the Diamond Design Competition (60pts for 60 years). At 2.45pm on Monday F Hinds will have a tea and Champagne reception for the winners of its ‘High Street by Design’ competition.
Following the success of an earlier ‘Tassel’ collection, Ivanka Trump is launching ‘Tassel Moderne’ – one of three new lines to be shown at IJL. In 18ct yellow and white gold with diamonds there are eight pieces in the Art Deco-inspired line of earrings, rings, necklaces and bracelets. ‘Les Petites’ is designed for the modern working women, while ‘Liberté’ is inspired by the Paris architecture in the Art Deco period. (B16)
Making its debut at IJL is Reverie Diamond, a new brand from UJT and inspired by the dreams of director Joel Storfer’s great grandfather, a diamond dealer who wanted to offer beautiful diamond rings that didn’t carry enormous price tags. Each Reverie Diamond ring features a 1.00ct or 0.50ct diamond set with smaller diamonds to give the effect of one large solitaire. All are wed-fit and highly polished on the inside for extra comfort. UJT will also be showing its other three brands, plus its in-house, unbranded coloured stone and diamond lines. (D130)
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 41
Launched last year, Biiju introduces statement earrings and pendants, all handmade in Hatton Garden. Additions to the existing line include an 18ct gold, diamond set pendant that can be engraved with a message or name, handwoven silver thread ‘Vintage Snowflake’ earrings embellished with grey diamonds and black pavé diamond loop earrings from which can hang lemon quartz drop ‘Kylie’ earrings for an evening look. (S23)
PEMBE CLUB s
KASSANDRA LAUREN GORDON
The new ‘Over the Moon’ collection takes wearers on a journey into the universe, with a number of different satellites comprising everything from trendy retro styles with cabochon-cut gemstones, to chains, faux pearls and designs with crystals from Swarovski Elements. (F61)
Following 10 years working in the public and charity sector, Kassandra studied jewellery at Holts Academy and presents her first collection – ‘Fly Me to Jupiter’. Believing that “all enterprise should be social enterprise”, she has included Fairtrade gold, with many pieces named after inspirational female scientists. Inspired by space, the jewellery is designed for women who aim to be successful and confident. (Q90K)
The jewellery cleaning company will be unveiling three ‘gamechanging’ products at the show, including the Sonic Dazzle Stik, a power brush that cleans jewellery at 5,000 oscillations per minute. It is the first time that this technology – popular in the skincare industry – has been applied to consumer jewellery cleaning products. The Stik comes with two new reformulated cleansers – to clean, polish and protect. (K39)
42 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
Nilufer Kizilkaya and Yvonne Bakker are a Dutch duo with a Mediterranean root and the aesthetics and inspiration of their design has an ancient Roman/Byzantium/Ottoman touch. In particular the Eastmeets-West vibe of Istanbul with its historic architecture and colour has informed the collection. The ‘Lily’ earrings from the capsule collection feature deep green chrysoprase and onyx which reflect the colours of the city. (S35)
(see main image, p40) Named after the Swahili word for tusk or ivory, Pembe is a seven-line collection of luxury fashion jewellery designed and made in Tanzania using local natural and sustainable materials by Yasmine Haji. Handcarved and cast designs, inspired by horn, tooth and tusk are used with wood, seeds and recycled glass. A percentage of each sale goes directly to selected organisations that work ‘on the frontline’ to ensure the welfare, safety and survival of elephants. (R44)
This new British jewellery brand will be introducing its simple, delicate designs, created in rhodium-plated sterling silver or 24ct yellow gold vermeil or 22ct rose gold vermeil. The pieces are set with CZ stones and new this season is the ‘Initial Necklace’ collection and a line of adjustable chain necklaces with a choice of charms. (L21)
FRILLY BY LILY
Award-winning Latvian designermaker Anita Sondore, who developed her skills with a Rome jewellers, takes her inspiration from her cultural heritage as well as the northern European’s closeness to nature. The ‘Sounds of Silence’ collection for instance captures the essence of the Art Nouveau architecture of Riga, while ‘Moving Light’ is her homage to the ancient family tradition of ‘eveningtime’ when families would sit by candlelight during the darkest month and create works of art. ‘Deep water’ and ‘Universe’ are the two other collections being launched. (S75)
Taking its inspiration from ancient Egyptian jewellery, ‘Ancient Awe’ harnesses the ages-old technique of hammering to create a twinkling, light-reflecting surface in silver with a touch of 9 or 18ct gold. The colours of the time have also been used, with lapis lazuli, turquoise and red fire opals brought into the exotic mix for the simply-styled rings, wedding bands, necklaces, bracelets and earrings. (P66)
Having already created jewellery worn by such luminaries as Michelle Obama, Oprah and Arianna Huffington, Curry is debuting at IJL with her ‘Success’ collection. Designed as a gift and originally inspired by a gold bullion bar, the necklace ‘celebrates women and girls, by encouraging them to believe in their hopes and dreams and their own meaning of success in life’. The word ‘success’ is engraved on the bar. The first three amulets in pink gold were the official gift to Michelle Obama and her daughters by the Irish State on their arrival in Dublin. (N31)
The 18ct gold Daou collections are inspired by light in all its forms, colours and effects. Designer Dalia Daou will present continuations of the modern impressionist ‘Sunset Sunrise’ collection; the addition of versatile ‘Sparks’ stacking rings to the geometric ‘Stars’ and new ‘Quanta’ pieces which show clean flowing forms that catch the light. She will also be telling the story of the artistic Daou Jewellery heritage by showcasing some of the hero pieces. (R22)
Festina is renowned for its strong association with sports and cycling in particular – being the official timekeeper of the Tour de France. In the ‘racing’ collection is a sporty chrono watch with red stitched leather strap and carbon fibre inlay in the bezel. The ladies’ collection includes a contemporary-looking rose gold timepiece with steel bracelet and CZ stone-set bezel. (E71)
44 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
The Netherlands-based brand, founded in the early 1980s, is launching in the UK for the first time. As well as offering hand-made, on-trend 14ct gold and silver jewellery, Ami B is the only distributor in the UK of German watch brand Martin L Riedel. On the stand at IJL the company’s watchmaker, Martin, will be giving live demonstrations – a chance for visitors to witness the skills involved in creating the unique timepieces. (P86)
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O.W.L will be showcasing its first complete capsule range of men’s watches, as well as its current collection of ladies’ watches and three all new collections and limited editions. Charlie Gumley sales manager said: “At IJL we are hoping to expand on the 18 new retailers we opened with in Q4 as O.W.L Watches has moved forward and now offers a complete range of 65 individual SKUs. We are looking to offer independent branded jewellery retailers an alternative quality product with great British design at its heart.” (L31)
The popular ‘Scintillating Diamonds’ collection has been expanded dramatically, with 19 new pieces, including necklaces, being launched at the show. The concept of the range is a central diamond or diamonds suspended on invisible wires, allowing the stones to oscillate and sparkle as the wearer moves. The mix and match suites of pendants and earrings in 18ct white gold have been joined by bi-colour designs. (D60)
The new collection of design-led jewellery for men is using braided leather in combination with stainless steel elements and screw clasps. Also in the line are detailed pattern cufflinks – all affordably priced. (F60)
Family-owned for five generations, Wolf made its mark by producing beautifully crafted presentation boxes for the jewellery and watch trade. At IJL two new collections will be introduced: ‘Chloe’ jewellery boxes and rolls in laser-cut leather with LusterLoc® lining to prevent tarnishing and ‘Blake’ watch and cufflink boxes, watch rolls, valet tray, shoe-shine kit and tablet and credit card cases, in pebble grain or Teju lizard leather and designed to complement the ‘Blake’ watch winders. (L38)
46 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
It was 40 years ago that Continental began manufacturing fine jewellery in China and 25 years since Peter A Mooney established the UK operation. To celebrate the anniversaries Continental will offer exclusive discounts on orders placed at the show. Being showcased is an extended 9ct gold core range with cushion halo rings in sapphire, ruby and emerald with split diamond-set shoulders, coloured stone and diamond line bracelets and matching bangles, earrings and pendants to complement open work multi-row diamond rings. (D120)
The German-owned, Italiandesigned brand of silver jewellery with the look and feel of diamond jewellery, is launching ‘Celebrate’. The very feminine designs, such as these floral earrings, will sit alongside the new ‘Secrets’ locket line, where clients can choose a charm to go on either the inside or outside of the locket. The collections are fully merchandised with POS material. (E130)
Award-winning jewellery designer Sarah Jordan has designed a ring in Fairtrade gold specially for Arctic Circle. The ‘Aurora Borealis’ ring is the first in a collection of ‘daywear’ diamond jewellery pieces for the ethical diamond jewellery brand. “By taking inspiration from [the Northern Lights], the design of the ring evokes the magical ribbons of light in the skies above northern Canada, and uses the Fairtrade gold to represent the sun’s play in this magical event,” explains Jordan. The ring is available in white or yellow gold. (B20)
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While the Marc Marquez collection and the Sports range have strong, masculine looks combined with multi-function details, the Elegance ladies’ line has a more refined feel, as seen in this rose gold plated watch with leather strap. (E71)
Showing at IJL this year is a new collection of flower cufflinks in bright and intense vitreous enamel colours. In addition to cufflink lines, the gold and silversmith will be showing a new range of hinged bangles and a selection of phone items. (P69)
I LOVE A LASSIE
The Scottish silver jewellery designers are launching their new ‘Bark’ collection of pendants, earrings, rings and cuffs, capturing the sheen and texture of the bark found on a Scots pine tree. Large, dramatic pieces like the ring and cuff provide a complement to the more delicate pieces of the best-selling ‘Birds’ Nest’ collection. (P47)
Inspired by the success of the Sarah Ho Couture ‘Paradis’ earrings, the designer has launched two new suites of jewellery – ‘The Swan’ and ‘Royal Plume’ (the latter seen here. The addition of pearls and gemstones accentuate the delicate lacework effect and flowing lines. Also on offer will be the new ‘Numerati’ collection of lucky number rings and new colour and gem-set versions of the ‘Pop!’ bracelets. (R136)
After a brief hiatus, designermaker Andrew Geoghegan is back at IJL, lured by the new venue and a desire to focus on his home market. The show also gives him a platform from which to unveil the re-branding of his business. The “new, luxurious feel of AG” includes new images, new logo, new POS and new pieces into the collection, like the ‘Cannelé Chocolate’ ring seen here, which comes in 18ct rose gold. The ‘Cannelé Cabochon’ rings are available with various gemstones including Paraiba tourmaline, tanzanite and tsavorite in 18ct yellow and rose gold. (S106)
As well as showcasing its new ‘Box of Tricks’ and an engagement ring collection of halos in all fancy shapes, award-winning Gemex will be unveiling its new, fully-responsive website. Retailers will be able to upload their own logo so the site looks and feels like it’s their own. There is a live pricing facility in two different diamond qualities and in three different metals across all 11,500 SKUs. (D30)
Having traded for 30 years under the Burkmar Jewellery label, the company is back at IJL (after a three-year break) with a new brand name – Yulan. Made in anodised aluminium and sterling, Britannia and Argentium silver (for different finishes) the designs are inspired by coastal living and woodland walks. After a break of almost 10 years the company is re-introducing a small collection of 18ct gold pieces. (Q48)
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 49
Renowned for innovative accessories in 925 silver, stainless steel and leather, Fred Bennett enters 2016 with a collection of masculine, unpretentious men’s jewellery with an industrial theme. Graphic influences are fused with the brand’s signature style. (E70)
New for this season, Mounir presents a collection of hinged earrings in 9ct gold and featuring faceted gemstone cubes in a variety of colours. The design also comes with nucleated baroque pearls and is also available in sterling silver. (Q88)
The company has overhauled its website in order to announce the launch of the Mark Milton Classic brand (formerly known as Pepper Pink) which will sit alongside the Mark Milton Collection of design-led gold and vermeil ranges. The ‘Glitter’ line within the Classic brand comprises earrings, pendants and bangles in 9ct yellow, white and rose gold with hand-applied glitter and polished finishes. (C41)
Designed by brand founder Carole Stock, Lily & Lotty has launched a new capsule collection of stretch bracelets and rings. Crafted from rhodium-coated sterling silver beads, each piece is hand-strung and features a diamond-set charm – hearts, stars, butterflies, angels and keys. Petite versions of the bracelets and rings are available in the Lily & Lotty for Girls collection. (E80)
“We anticipate a very busy exhibition,” says Tony Tankel. “We have a number of new diamond rings using oval shape diamonds and three rings with very high quality emeralds, rubies and sapphires. We are also seeing very strong demand for large diamonds at the moment from 3cts-7cts and are very encouraged by the growth in sales of our D colour SI diamonds.” (C38)
The supplier of fine quality gemstones and diamond jewellery will be launching its new range of platinum diamond eternity rings as well as promoting its new website for retailers. Once logged in, the site looks like the retailer’s own site, with the wide range of jewellery at retail prices (for the walk-in customer) as well as trade prices viewable by the retailer. Custom-made jewellery is available if required and shops can request appro online within minutes. (C68)
50 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
LILY & LOTTY
To celebrate his return to IJL, designer maker Alex Monroe is relaunching his Goldcrest collection of solid gold fine jewellery – all hand-made in his London studio. The line has been expanded to include new stories including ‘Teeny Tinies’ – miniature recreations of iconic designs and ‘Enchanted Alphabet’ necklaces with twig-like letters. These are in addition to his nature-inspired wedding and engagement rings. (S120)
NEW ADDITIONS TO FOUR COLLECTIONS TO BE LAUNCHED AT IJL. COME AND SEE US. IJL STAND D60
LONDON ROAD JEWELLERY
The modern Danish jewellery brand is launching a collection of edgy fashion rings, earrings, pendants, necklaces and bangles, with an emphasis on bold, unusual forms. Whether geometric, sharp or curvy, the dramatic pieces are given a feminine feel thanks to glinting CZ set into the silver or rose gold. These half-loop earrings are from the ‘Fucino Lungo’ line. (D91)
The sun setting over Orkney’s great ceremonial circle, the Ring of Brodgar, inspired Sheila to create the ‘Stone Circles’ collection in sterling silver and slate enamel. It complements her ‘Standing Stones’ collection inspired by the Standing Stones of Stenness. Also new is ‘Symphony’, inspired by the movement, harmony and balance of music. (R94)
Familiar elements from the natural world have been translated into contemporary, three-dimensional pieces… with an added touch of attitude. Flowers and raindrops may have a gentle feel, but have been given an edge with hearts, flames and thorns, as seen in the Open Flower range of necklaces, rings and earrings hand-set with marcasite stones. (S100)
Focusing on bridal and bespoke jewellery, Alexis Dove will be introducing ‘Snowflake Diamonds’ – a contemporary collection featuring natural diamonds that, thanks to tiny natural inclusions, have a frozen appearance (and each, one of a kind). The rings, in textured white, yellow and rose gold are available with matching wedding bands. A trip to Kew Gardens’ Victorian Palm House inspired the designer’s ‘Paradise Collection’ pendants and earrings dripping with tropical foliage and birds. (S118)
CALIZ (see image on p40) Using the brand’s trademark material, vegetable ivory, designer Martha Lizarazo will be showing the new ‘Earth’ collection and introducing vibrant 1970s-inspired colours and geometric shapes, as well as the natural forms and colours given by the material itself. (Q58)
AMORE UNIQUE JEWELS
Simple geometric forms and others taken from nature, provide the inspiration for this clean, contemporary collection in sterling silver. Most pieces have a plain matt finish, with occasionally rose gold plating or freshwater pearls used to complement the designs. Also in the line are bracelets in soft leather with stainless steel clasps with different charm details. (F60)
52 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
Four new collections have been added to London Road’s range of contemporary 9ct gold and diamond and gem-set jewellery. In response to the trend for geometric shapes there’s the 9ct white gold, diamond-set ‘Portobello Geo’ (seen here), while ‘Portobello Peacock’ and ‘Kew Falling Leaves’ offer a more natural feel. ‘Bloomsbury Carnival’ reflects the fun of summer with long, multi-coloured quartz necklaces. (C29)
The ‘Zest’ collection is a new addition to the Amore Gold range and features colourful, contemporary pieces comprising chequerboard cut gemstones set in 9ct or 18ct yellow, white or red gold with any combination of stones. In the Amore Argento line there are two new collections – ‘Mystique’ and ‘Enchanted’. (B89)
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Fiorelli will unveil its high-fashion Costume Collection and Silver Range, with neutral tribal influences in brushed or high shine gold as well as the jewel-encrusted showstoppers. New are the subtle twists on classic designs and clean geometrics in mixed metals. Eschewing typical winter palettes, the line has rainbow blooms, vivacious cocktail hour classics and Swarovski crystals. (E70)
The new ‘Elements’ collection captures the spirit of ice and fire – cool blue water and red hot flames are the inspiration for the curvy sterling silver pieces, brought alive by the use of Swarovski crystals. Each ‘Water’ piece features graduated coloured stones, from clear to turquoise, while ‘Flame’ jewellery is set with clear to bright orange tones. (R128)
Designer maker Charlotte Lowe’s unique, hand-made silver jewellery pieces celebrate shared memories and travel. The new ‘Walk with me’ collection depicts the British countryside – strolls in the park, country retreats and dog-walking. (S45)
Endless will unveil the third collection designed and inspired by J Lo. Among 22 new gold and silver charms are a snake with gem eyes, a leopard print cut-out and gem drop charms. The threestring bracelets have been joined by ‘Golden Sparkle’ and ‘Silver Sparkle’ variations. Also in the line is a silver charm bracelet, with new charms lined in silicon so that they stay in place. (E20)
The fashionable Parisian watch brand has extended its interchangeable strap offer with leather straps to sit alongside the original nylon NATO straps and new this season is a ‘Vintage’ leather strap with contrast stitching. The watches come in a gift box with the extra strap, which can be switched in seconds. All watches are in stainless steel and waterproof to 100M. (E71)
This new collection focuses on geometry, with minimalist concepts and linear shapes – bound together by a strong and contrasting colour palette. Designed in London, Neola’s 18ct gold vermeil or sterling silver jewellery is hand-made in India and features a variety of coloured stones, sourced by the brand’s designer/gemmologist. (P57)
All things marine have informed the latest designs, with blue sapphires and iolites presiding over other aquatic tones such as amethysts, peridots and topaz. The shapes are inspired by seashells along with sculpted forms in yellow or rose gold featuring rippled textures or pavé diamonds. (E70)
54 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
Tivon has been rebranded and its new website will highlight the focus: “to assist fine jewellery retailers to show, educate and sell to their customers the best in coloured gemstone fine jewellery”. Although renowned for tanzanite fine jewellery, around 60 per cent of its offer is made up of other gemstones. (D110)
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Now in its seventh year, IJL’s annual KickStart Bursary programme offers 10 outstanding designers a place on a unique, commercial launchpad. The winners, who will come together on a group stand (T10) at the show, will receive valuable marketing and industry support from IJL, as well as from the BJA (soon to be NAJ) which was a co-founder of the mentoring initiative. Always exciting and innovative, the line-up this year definitely comprises names to watch.
Born and raised in New York City, Ilene Steele is now based in London and her bold, unconventional style pays homage to both cities. In her newest collection, the boat-like settings of precious metal are loaded with marquise-cut gemstones and presented in unexpected sea-faring positions as a metaphor for the ‘erratic and exhilarating experiences of everyday life’.
Recycled coffee and gold feature in ‘Java Ore’, Rosalie McMillan’s debut collection of luxury jewellery. The original concept is inspired by coffee: recycled and Fairtrade sterling silver and 18ct gold are juxtaposed with Çurface, a material derived from recycled coffee grounds collected from London coffee shops. The asymmetric, angular pieces have a clean aesthetic and a playful yet sophisticated quality. Each design is hand-crafted in London using high quality sustainable materials. Rosalie notes: “My jewellery has a deep connection with wearers. Each piece has a story to tell, from the coffee beans growing in Guatemala to being transformed into unique jewellery.”
Recipient of the ‘People’s Choice’ award, Spanish-born Laura Parra creates miniature sculptures with wax droplets and then sets coloured gemstones into the wax at randomly flowing angles. The final pieces, cast in silver or gold, have a fluid, organic feel. Parra, who has a background in fine art and restoration, takes her inspiration from the architecture of Barcelona and the works of Spanish sculptors as well as the colours of the Mediterranean.
Lauren Rowden creates minimalist jewellery that combines classic, timeless designs with modern and contemporary aesthetics. Every piece of jewellery is designed and crafted by hand in London, be it a bespoke commission or a new line to a collection. Her permanent collections are comprised of unique pieces and commissions are designed with the customer to create the perfect piece. She trained in Contemporary Jewellery Design in Florence, but enjoys the use of old traditional techniques to create pieces that are completely timeless.
56 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
la parra jewels
Inspired by the granulation technique, which is traditional in Italy, her home country, Francesca Marcenaro creates unusual pieces of jewellery, mixing different techniques in order to achieve organic and tactile results. Recently she has been making pieces in oxidised silver, trying to find the same black-blueish colour of the raven’s plumage. She is also influenced by the opalescent glass of the Art Deco period, fairy tales and nature.
Dreamy landscapes of the deep sea inspire forms of Mirka Janeckova’s jewellery, which is made exclusively from white materials – porcelain and sterling silver. The original design process is based on surrealist, automatic drawing and an innovative use of ceramics. Hand-built porcelain set in silver gives the designer freedom of artistic expression as it has the potential to be shaped into virtually any form and challenges the restrictive traditional cuts of gemstones. The pieces appear fragile but they are surprisingly durable.
The ‘Baoli’ collection by award-winning fine jeweller, Flora Bhattachary will be launched alongside new pieces in the ‘Taxila’ range. Inspired by the dramatic carving and linear architecture of ancient Indian water temples or ‘Baoli’, the new collection presents geometric cocktail rings, angular pendants and earrings. Bold rows of sapphires and white diamonds range from deep blues to black and are set in satin-finished 18ct yellow gold and rhodium plate. New additions to the Taxila collection include the ‘Yaksha’ cocktail ring, luxe trillion set pendants and studs in deep Madagascan blue and black sapphires. The bold design features an angular serrated inner circle and a heavily textured finish.
Samantha Rose worked for 10 years as an aerodynamicist and uses her understanding of fluid dynamics (together with her love of ballet) to evoke a sense of liquid grace in her work. She has a passion for sentimental jewellery that captures a precious moment, special place or important story and reminds people of it for a lifetime. Her inspiration comes from the natural world, specifically the soft flowing curves of flowers and the reflection of light, giving her designs her own contemporary interpretation of pieces she loves from the Georgian and Art Nouveau periods. There is always a story behind the pieces, often drawn from ancient symbolism, tales and traditions.
Once a consultant chemical engineer, Andrew Gold Nielson founded his jewellery business in early 2014 and the first two collections, ‘Coalescence’ and ‘Air’, have just been launched ahead of IJL. All the pieces are handmade from gold grain and wire and micropavé set with fine diamonds and gemstones. Every ring made is unique and collectable, as no two pieces of gold grain or structure will be identical. He also offers bespoke pieces from the same collection, with all the golds and stones being chosen by the client.
Ana Thompson is a London-based Colombian-born jewellery designer, who aims to ‘inspire and create wonder’, by capturing meaningful details from magnified natural structures found within macroscopic and microscopic worlds and transforming them into elegant and versatile pieces of fine jewellery. With her background in industrial design and an MA in jewellery design with distinction Ana has experience working in developing projects that implement the use of cutting edge technologies, blending digital and traditional craftsmanship techniques. Her collections have a contemporary feel, expressing intricate geometries, unexpected shapes and delicate, fluid lattices. n
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 57
Selling foreign currency – a hidden gem for your jewellery business?
As an independent jeweller, you’ll no doubt be on the lookout for new ways to grow your business and revenue without necessarily expanding the size of your store. The obvious and most common way of doing this is to diversify your product range.
f you have already taken this route, there are other, less obvious, services that jewellers can offer. One of these is selling foreign currency. This may seem unusual, but No.1 Currency offers a unique foreign currency model to third party businesses. It provides companies – regardless of their size – with an excellent opportunity to develop a new stream of revenue, and bolster sales through cross-selling opportunities.
“Our store is very long and narrow, with the currency being sold right at the back of the shop. People who come in for currency walk past the jewellery and giftware counters, and have either ended up making purchases there and then, or have come back at a later date to peruse and buy, impressed by what they saw before.” Selling currency has also helped drive sales owing to the type of clientele this has helped bring into Wot-a-Gem. Sumray says: “Let’s not forget that people who are buying currency for holidays have disposable income. Bringing them into the shop is certainly no bad thing.”
Over the last few years No.1 Currency has established these partnerships with jewellers across the UK and the average income generated by selling currency is £17,000 per annum – hardly a negligible sum.
and made further enquiries. And that’s where it all began.” Since that time, Sumray and his business partner have processed 25,000 foreign currency transactions in their store.
Ian Sumray, owner of Wot-a-Gem jewellers in Clacton-on-Sea, was the first jewellery partner. Five years ago, he was comparing rates online for his own currency for a holiday to Norway.
Wot-a-Gem has been in its current premises for 15 years and, although situated between Superdrug and Wilkos, people often looked past the independent shop. Raising the shop’s profile
People who come in for currency walk past the jewellery and giftware counters, and have either ended up making purchases there and then, or have come back at a later date… He says: “I found that No.1 Currency had the best rates for Norwegian currency and had several locations I could pick it up from as I didn’t really want to purchase online. While on their website I noticed that they offered a partnership programme
through the door, meaning it’s a boost to opportunist purchases. Sumray confirms that he’s certainly experienced this.
and getting more people through the doors was a major incentive and consideration for going forward with No.1 Currency. “These things don’t happen overnight but I’ve now found myself with a lot of repeat
58 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
customers, who regularly use Wot-a-Gem for their currency when going on holiday,” Sumray explains. In order to market their new currency service, he has invested a small amount in advertising. Alongside this, No.1 Currency has provided support with branding, supplying a rate board, an ‘A’ board for the outside the shop and branded vinyl stickers to place around the front windows. As well as this, word of mouth recommendations spreading through the grapevine in this seaside town have also helped to drive sales. “Our rates remain the best in Clacton. We even have banks recommending us to their customers as the best place to go for their currency,” Sumray adds. Selling currency is not just a good way of generating additional revenue for your business, it can also support the sales of your core product. Offering an additional service gets people
Since launching operations in the UK foreign currency market in 2012, No.1 Currency has trebled its share of the UK market and expanded its retail distribution network to 240 outlets across the UK. New service innovations such as Click & Collect, where customers can order online and collect money in stores, and Click & Sell, which allows customers to sell back unused currency, which launched last year, have been hugely successful and are driving footfall into high street stores. All diamond dealers know about the 4Cs, but perhaps now it’s time to add a fifth. Selling currency and jewellery might not be a common combination, but it can certainly add value to your business. For more information about becoming a foreign currency agency partner, and the support available to you, please call 0800 840 2886 or email firstname.lastname@example.org Alternatively visit: http://www.no1currency.com/ bureau-opportunities/
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The National Association of Goldsmiths
Precious metal news, carbon footprints and dodgy diamond dealings – John Henn reports on the key issues of the recent CIBJO Congress, in this, his second report from Brazil. Richard receiving his gift from Gaetano Cavalieri, and the artist.
left you after the opening ceremony and the revelation that the diamonds in the Braun district would increase Brazil’s diamond production by 10 fold.
From within the ‘Diamond Commission’ we were read a letter from the CEO of the GIA, stating that if another laboratory grades stones using GIA nomenclature (patented in 1940) then they should refer to GIA standards. This was a reference to another lab group, which used the same grading format but claimed its references were not the same as those of the GIA. For example their F colour grade was not supposed to be the same as an F colour graded by the GIA. The actions of this international company are indefensible, and frankly the brand is dead as far as I can see. Nevertheless its representative attempted a course of damage limitation, which was futile. Once trust is broken there is no going back. The possible value of misrepresented diamonds runs into billions of dollars, and could come back to bite the retailers who sold them. It is the first time our industry has stood up to this misleading practice, and it may yet herald the return of diamond sales to the honest, responsible High Street from these dealers who are happy to misrepresent their goods, in an effort to undermine the rest of us. On a lighter note our first unofficial dinner was a recommendation from the Portuguese delegation. Our brief was for a sea food restaurant
on the coast, close and good value, and so we took a rather roundabout route along the sea shore to a linoleum-floored, basic building with a few locals eating their way through some vivid-hued lumpy dishes. The staff ID badges all showed the same picture of a long-haired, slim lady when in reality they were all shapes and sizes. However their smiles of encouragement when we were wrestling with the menu were great and they patiently encouraged us to make decisions amid a mixture of Spanish, distorted French and just plain pointing at other dinners. The beers arrived and we were set fair, the bill was half of what we expected it to be and soon we were back in our hotels. From where we were woken at 2am when the army camp outside started a basic training exercise on the parade ground seven floors below. The verbal abuse and screams continued until 5am and finally the battered squaddies were allowed back to the safety of their quarters. I had some earplugs from the flight, but even those could not completely block out the misery below. There are two enforcement operations in Brazil: the civil police – lightly-armed – who command little respect, and the army, each soldier packing a light machine gun, hand gun, taser-type gadget, handcuffs and baton, who seem to be taken more seriously. The following morning I asked reception if this was going to happen every night and they shrugged their shoulders: “They are the army, they do what they want”.
...the dark side is out there constantly plotting to exploit our weaknesses.
The squaddies on the parade ground below my hotel window at 4am.
60 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
Tuesday started with the notoriously ‘on time’ Precious Metals Commission, supremely handled by Marion Wilson of the Birmingham Assay Office; I was her wing man taking the notes as we ploughed through the agenda. That old chestnut the ‘Frank Dodd Act’ was back in the news: up to 6,000 publicly-quoted companies in the US have to file reports if they use minerals – mainly tungsten, tantalum, tin and gold – from the nine countries surrounding the Great Lakes region of West Africa. So far 1,200 companies have submitted reports of which two have recorded handling metals from the region, presumably by mistake, but it is not clear at the moment what the penalties are.
There are still 4,800 companies to report and the clock is ticking. Importantly recycled gold is exempt providing you can prove when and where it was surrendered and became ‘recycled’. Europe has pulled back from the brink of legislation (led in part by CIBJO) to make the process voluntary, in an effort not to pitch the countries concerned into a further desperate state. It is encouraging to note that more and more refiners are using recycled material; Germany is almost at 100 per cent. We are keeping an eye on some potential legislation regarding metals used in ‘food packaging and handling’ as this would effect silver and plated flatware, however it’s early days. Interestingly, but not surprisingly, there are laws against the use of heavy metals in jewellery production. The Indian producers seem relaxed about possibly contaminating the home market and wanted to express their misery at having to ‘clean up’ their exports for the rest of the world! Marion finished on time. During the break I learnt of the plight of one Italian retail jeweller; their association’s CEO was telling me of the 20 per cent drop in sales across 16,000 retail stores (that isn’t a misprint) as new legislation has come in to prevent any cash purchase over €1,000 going unnoticed by the government. The State will check up on a client to make sure they can afford the items from their declared income, or else! The result is that clients who would like to buy anything above this figure will buy in France, Switzerland or wherever. Remember, the retailers are the ones who have to keep their gold purchases for a month before they are sold on, and can be subject to official scrutiny at any time.
fruit that looked like deserts and deserts that arrived with salads on the side. The main event was CIBJO president Gaetano Cavalieri’s presentation to Richard when he spoke of our man’s 45 plus years of dedication to the industry and most of those to CIBJO. Richard can be seen sometimes considering whether or not to fly off to see a rare bird if his pager says one is in the area. He tells me that he may have seen around 2,000 species… but that still leaves 8,000. However Gaetano presented him with a unique one, carved in rose quartz, and decorated with most of the stones Brazil could offer. Richard, I think he wouldn’t mind me saying, was thrilled. And as a true gentleman he thanked everyone in the room, and The rose quartz parrot presented to encouraged us not to take our eyes off the Richard Peplow ball; it was a very special industry full of good and bad and we should continue to protect one from the other. The dinner continued with a Tina Turnerlike band format who had no limit to their volume control so I chose to head for bed to try to get some sleep before the army broke in. It had been quite a day. The final day began with a presentation from the Carbon Trust. If 81 per cent of your target clients would be more likely to walk into your store if you were ‘carbon neutral’ would you jump through the hoops? According to the Trust, 74 per cent of consumers in our market would choose a company with a reduced carbon footprint over one that has no reduction policy in place. The list of neutral companies on the world stage is impressive and includes the likes of M&S, HSBC, Microsoft and Ben & Jerry’s, but doesn’t include Tesco… lesson there perhaps? The NAJ will be looking into becoming one of the first carbon neutral trade associations in the world. More on this later as the process and implications are further understood.
The local art – like ‘Lowry’ with colour
The afternoon was filled with the sort of stuff that makes you want to go to sleep as the commissions discussed the difference between words such as ‘modified’ and ‘altered’, and their translation. I felt I was unlikely to miss much so I made a swift trip into the old city to pick up a picture. The rain was hammering down, it was like being in a sauna, but with the condensation on the outside of the car! Alessandro, my driver, and I chatted through Google translate. Tuesday evening saw the ‘Gala Dinner’ and the retirement of one of the UK’s finest exports in the form of Richard Peplow. The dinner itself was unforgettable not just because of the suspect quality of the food, but its completely random composition – main courses with
Rounding up some of the other commissions, we heard from the newly formed Coral Commission – the first ‘Blue Book’ for coral will shortly to be added to the CIBJO site, which discloses all the treatments, and explains that coral is now associated with good environmental management. The Pearl Commission had made some edits to its ‘Blue Book’, while the Coloured Stone Commission talked mainly about ethical sourcing, and the reality rather than the marketing opportunities that the subject presents. After lunch it was time to start the 24 hour trip home, which went as smoothly as you might wish. Rarely do I drink a can of Red Bull, but there was one in the car to make sure the last two hours on the motorway went without incident. All in all a successful trip for the UK, but be under no illusions, the dark side is out there constantly plotting to exploit our weaknesses. Those that quietly treat and enhance stones as well as apply other modifications or misrepresent their wares are very subtle in their approach, so keep up the education and training – we may not end up in open battles, but be sure, we will be fighting them.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 61
Out of the
Top Drawer If you are looking for design-led fashion jewellery with a difference, Top Drawer Autumn, which takes place at Olympia from 13th -15th September, is the place to find it. reapply and have to undergo the selection procedure again before being allowed back for another exhibition.
Top Drawer, which its organiser, Clarion Events, describes as “the UK’s definitive design-led gift trade event” is unusual among trade fairs in so far as all the companies exhibiting there have been subjected to a strict selection process designed to ensure that they, and their products, meet the show’s demanding design-led criteria. Would-be exhibitors are required to submit not only product information prior to being accepted for entry to the event, but must also have their stand designs approved. “We like exhibitors’ stands to focus on product, with no clutter and to have decorated, rather than plain walls which should also include their logo and have a design-led feel,” explains Michelle Prah who is Fashion Accessories manager for this show and for its sister event, Top Drawer Spring, which also has a sizeable fashion
The vetting policy certainly seems to work in terms delivering of an event which never disappoints in terms of its layout and overall look or in the jewellery and other items buyers can expect to find there. Indeed much of what is exhibited is unique to Top Drawer with 85 per cent of all exhibitors making the two shows their only UK trade events.
accessories offer. Nor is any backsliding allowed once you have made the cut. If your stand or the items on it don’t quite meet the criteria at a particular show you may well be asked to
62 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
In September 2015 there will be some 210 companies in the Fashion Accessories zone of the show and at least half of these will be jewellers. Product is predominantly commercially produced in sterling silver but exhibitors also include massmarket importers of fashion jewellery and a sprinkling of designer-makers offering handmade pieces.
Prah believes that a particular draw at this year’s show will be the appearance of the highlypopular Danish jewellery brand Pilgrim which has not attended a trade exhibition in the UK for four years and has chosen Top Drawer to make its return. Other big-name brands, which regularly attend the event and are undoubtedly well received by visitors, are the men’s jewellery brand Simon Carter, Sence Copenhagen and Rodgers & Rodgers. The show’s statistics are certainly impressive with some 13,000 visitors, including some of the biggest names in retail, attending each show. Of those who attend 56 per cent state fashion accessories and jewellery as one of their main interests and a
TOP DRAWER: THE FACTS Date: 13th – 15th September, 2015 Olympia London, Hammersmith Road, Kensington, London, W14 8UX Opening Times: Sunday 13th September: 9.30 – 18.00 Monday 14th September: 9.30 – 18.00 Tuesday 15th September: 9.30 – 17.00 Registration: www.topdrawer.co.uk Twitter (for the latest news and updates): @TopDrawerLondon @home_london Diary Date: Top Drawer Spring – 17th-19th January, 2016
recent post-show survey revealed that 64 per cent of buyers had ordered from that sector. Top Drawer is not, of course, all about jewellery. Together with its sister shows – ‘Home’ and ‘CRAFT’ – it will showcase the products of over 1,000 leading UK and international brands drawn from across the gift and home spectrum.
Jewellers thanks to its recent unification with the N.A.G.) exhibit at Top Drawer and the Association’s marketing manager, Lindsey Straughton, is a proponent of the event. “I would recommend member retailers who have never visited Top Drawer to attend, either this or the larger show in January, if only for the insight they provide into coming trends. The shows are small enough to shop in a day and are a great way to keep your finger on the pulse of what’s new and different and to source products that are very much out of the ‘top drawer’ in terms of design,” she explains.
To make shopping easy Top Drawer is organised into five different product sectors: Gift, Stationery & Greetings, Fashion Accessories, Children’s, and Wellbeing.
The ‘Faceted’ collection from The Branch (Stand ZB1) offers a wide selection of coloured stones, set in its signature wood. Matching bracelets, bangles and neckwear are also available.
These brightly-coloured CZ and crystal drop earrings (4cm) in rhodium plated brass are from By Elise (Stand ZG21). Other colourways are available on request.
Lucky Eyes’ ‘Lunch with the Star’ collection offers a selection of rings and necklaces made in 925 sterling silver, with yellow or rose gold vermeil options. (Stand ZG19)
silver and gold-plated earrings are from the ‘Branch Out’ collection which won the Fashion Accessory category in the Gift of the Year Awards 2015 for Martick Jewellery. (Stand Z2)
Home, as its name suggests, offers products for the home while CRAFT (which has 100 exhibitors) offers retailers access to made objects across a host of disciplines from basketry and blacksmithing to knitwear and textiles. CRAFT also includes more than a sprinkling of precious and non-precious jewellery.
The ‘Meteorite’ Collection from Matthew Calvin (Stand SA1) finds beauty in rough and unusual objects. Here hand-carved meteorite nuggets are contrasted with highly polished silver and rose gold. fashionable double pearl studs on gold are from Pearls of the Orient which will be showing its gemstones and cultured pearl collection at the show. (Stand Z23)
For Autumn / Winter 2015 Muru (Stand ZE16) is adding some sparkle with delicate white topaz designs in sterling silver, gold and rose gold vermeil which are ideal for Christmas parties!
Many members of the BJA (soon to be the National Association of
statement earrings from ‘The Arabian Knights’ collection by Ashiana (Stand ZD25) are a true statement of glamour.
THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY 63
Fashion at the forefront at
Autumn Fair Hundreds of fashion jewellery and accessory suppliers will exhibit at this year’s show. Mary Brittain investigates what will be on offer. It is an unfortunate quirk of the trade fair calendar that International Jewellery London and Autumn Fair frequently take place at exactly the same time, making it tricky for retailers to visit them both. This is a great pity as each is excellent in its own way and each offers a very distinct product mix. While IJL is largely all about precious jewellery, the Autumn Fair is for those seeking costume, silver and fashion jewellery lines. The show also provides a great opportunity to shop for those extra items such as handbags, wallets and other gift items that
so many jewellers like to stock. It has traditionally enjoyed a good turnout from members of the BJA (soon to be NAJ). Indeed, member companies, thanks to an historical deal with i2i Events, receive a useful five per cent discount on their stand space at this and other i2i shows. This year’s IJL will take place from 6th – 8th September while Autumn Fair will be at the NEC in Birmingham from 6th - 9th September so there is in fact an opportunity for retailers to shop them both and Vanessa Zalman, a director and regular exhibitor of the silver jewellery brand Banyan, thinks they should. “There are many advantages to Autumn Fair. It’s intimate and it’s friendly and, for those from far away who shudder to get into central London, the logistics are
Trend: ELEMENTAL Reeves and Reeves (above), Alexander Thurlow (left) and Lovett & Co. (below) Fair. “Fashion jewellery can produce some impressive margins and can also provide a substantial range of styles at minimal cost. It has an increased presence in the gift market at dates such as Mothers’ and Fathers’ Day, stock is readily available without the need to commit to forward orders and retailers can create impressive retail displays for £100s not £1000s,” he told me. simple. It’s also a great place for those looking to diversify and for those seeking products at certain price points. You won’t find fine jewellery but you will find plenty of quirky and fashionable designs in silver,” she says. Clive Saunders of the costume jewellery company Alexander Thurlow, which has exhibited at the show since its inception, would also urge more traditional retail jewellers to attend Autumn
Trend: OFFBEAT Rodney Holman (left) and Banyan (right)
So what exactly will be on offer in Hall 4 of the NEC, which is where the Fashion & Accessories companies are grouped? Well, according to show organisers it is one of the strongest categories at the show and will feature some 250 suppliers including 50 newcomers. Among the fashion jewellery brands that regularly exhibit are Rodney Holman, Balagan, Alexander Thurlow, D&X, Nour London, Leslie Donn and Suzie Blue to name but a few. The central focus for Hall 4 will be the ‘Fashion Catwalk’ with shows featuring exhibitors’ products running three times a day. When the Catwalk is not in use, the space will be used
64 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
O R K N E Y
D E S I G N E R
J E W E L L E R Y
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for presentations and seminars on topics ranging from future trends and merchandising advice to online marketing and best practice in social media. Autumn Fair – with some 1,400 exhibitors across 14 gift and home product categories and a new decorative lighting event, launching this year – is not, of course, all about jewellery. Here you can find many attractions including group stands from the Caribbean, Taiwan and carpets from India. UK Trade & Investment will also be on hand (Stand 4N31-32) with a programme which includes a presentation from the iconic British designer Emma Bridgewater.
On-trend WGSN, which will be giving the Future Trends presentations for Autumn Winter 2016/17 at the show, has already released a sneak preview of its four major themes. These are ‘Artisan’, ‘Offbeat’, ‘Elemental’ and ‘ReMaster’. The first looks towards craft and has a hand-made ethos, it is highly tactile and also features textured metallic finishes. Offbeat, is all about the unexpected juxtaposition of colours – the more the merrier and it’s cool to clash. Elemental reflects frozen nature and ethereal white winter landscapes while the final look, ‘ReMaster’, looks back to past, grander eras, ancient civilisations and borrows from the Dutch and Flemish old masters.
‘Retail Shop’, also in Hall 4, offers visitors access to logistic companies, digital marketing and social media specialists, web designers, payment providers, product photography, warehousing and returns companies, mailing houses, POS suppliers and packaging solutions. According to its portfolio director, Naomi Barton, Autumn Fair is “one of the fastest-growing seasonal trade exhibitions in Europe, showcasing more new and innovative products than any other event of its kind taking place in the Autumn/Winter season”. As such it is surely worth a look?
You only have to visit the Show’s extremely comprehensive website www.autumnfair.com click onto the ‘Browse Products’ button and then into ‘Jewellery & Fashion Accessories’ to see that many of the exhibitors are right on trend. There are metallic ‘Artisan’ designs from Dansk Smykkekunst while Karve Designs and Belle & Flo also feature highly textured pieces; zingy colours come from (among many others) Siren Silver, Jackie Brazil, Peace of Mind and JewelCity and ethereal wintery designs from Silver Arcade, Metal Plant and Lovett & Co. I found it harder to identify ReMaster pieces but spotted an African vibe from Yamba Jewellery and a definite Asian twist with plenty of grandeur from Fejour International and Ashiana.
Trend: REMASTER Balagan Group (above top) and Nour London (above)
Trend: ARTISAN Siren Silver (left) and Dansk Smykkekunst (above)
66 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
AT THE BENCH
CASTING Continuing our series on the processes involved in creating jewellery (we’ll come to silverware later) Apple Nootenboom FIPG MBGG, who heads up Hean Studio, explains the age-old process of precious metal casting.
he production of castings for jewellery is a very long established process known as the lost wax casting method. The principles of which go back over 5,000 years. Precious metal castings for jewellery really became established in the 1950s. The technology then was still fairly basic. Today, we have very much more sophisticated casting machines with highly controllable casting environments, and alloys that have better performance characteristics.
The basic process remains the same whether it be by moulding a master pattern and then producing multiple waxes or, as happens now, more bespoke one-offs created on CAD and built in wax or resin. With the CAD items additional consideration is required before committing to casting. With the waxes and resins completed and sorted they are assembled in to a ‘tree’ so that many items can be cast together for economy. These are then retained within a stainless steel cylinder to create a container. Depending on the metal required these trees are processed differently. For gold and silver alloys a gypsum-based refractory (casting mould) is poured in and left to set. For platinum a phosphate-bonded refractory, which is very pedantic to use, is poured into the container, which sort of sets, but it’s different in its chemistry. These ‘flasks’ are then placed in their respective furnaces and subjected to a burn out cycle of about 18 hours, during which time all the waxes and resin is melted and burnt away to leave a clean, carbon free hot seamless mould, which at the end of the cycle has been brought down to a temperature suitable for each type of alloy.
However, despite all the advances an extensive knowledge of the alloys and how they perform, a broad knowledge of correct feed structures, and an intimate knowledge of how metals flow and solidify are paramount for the production of good castings. The caveat though is that no piece of jewellery has ever been properly designed for casting as a technical structure. This factor has become even more of a problem with the advent of CAD design, and some of the extreme structures that can now be created.
…people can be lulled into thinking that technology will resolve all the problems. Mould-cutting
68 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
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AT THE BENCH
primarily caused by poor casting knowledge and practices. With CAD waxes and resins a common issue is refractory breakup due to designers creating very fine sections and holes which do not have the strength to withstand the flow of the dense hot metals, which results usually in surface defects, mistaken as porosity. There are many additional types of defects too long-winded to explain here. Casting is not a dying art or science, but people can be lulled into thinking that technology will resolve all the problems. Not so. A vast knowledge of all casting processes and a lifetime of exacting experience and analysis is needed, which can only be learnt over many, many years. Many of the staff have been here for a long time – several over 20 years. I have been in this business for over four decades. I do a lot of R&D work, and continue to learn new things, including learning how to cope with new problems created by CAD/CAM processes and poor design. Our clients range from designer makers through to volume producers, as well as some of the top names in Bond Street.
Centrifugal casting for platinum
The silver and gold alloys are cast usually these days in a static vacuum pressure casting machine which is computer controlled. Put simply, it is gravity casting with all gas resistance removed; the pressure bit of the cycle actually does little or nothing. For platinum and palladium it is still centrifugally cast; this is because platinum requires melt temperatures close to 2,000°.
There are no training courses for casting, so all training is carried out inhouse. The skills are very varied. The work is detailed so good eye/hand co-ordination is needed, particularly when cutting moulds. Building up to create the ‘tree’ requires good 3D visualisation to combine all the differing designs into a given space and to cast well. Casting requires an understanding of the alloys used and how they work, in conjunction with understanding how the casting machine works to optimise good results. After casting, any defects that happen need many years of experience and knowledge to assess, and then to figure how and why they happened. With a generally well-structured casting operation the majority of issues tend to be client-created by design.
After casting the trees are removed hot from the flasks, then blasted and pickled to clean away any residues and oxides. Then all the castings are cut and trimmed from the trees and sorted and inspected before sending on to the manufacturers and designer makers. Casting is still fairly simple and straight forward. However, there are many issues that can create less than perfect castings. The most common is porosity, which creates an unsound structure and is
Silver and gold ‘trees’
Despite new technologies that are very useful, casting will remain as a backbone for the bulk of production as it remains the most cost effective means of producing a wide range of forms quickly and in volume. Apple is also the chairman of the Institute of Professional Goldsmiths. n
Vacuum pressure casting for gold and silver
70 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
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Where to go, what to see… Association events and courses September 7th – 14th: IRV Loughborough Conference, Loughborough University Annual must-attend event for current and prospective Registered Valuers, including lectures from 33 guest speakers and a record 26 professional workshops (new and repeated). Sponsored by Gem-A as well as The Guild of Valuers & Jewellers and TH March. email@example.com 10th: Gold Buying and Precious Metal Testing, Buckinghamshire A short course that will provide understanding of the skill and knowledge needed to identify precious metals used in jewellery. It will also cover the gold fix and the bullion process and the legal requirements and standards of conduct when buying gold from the public. Contact: firstname.lastname@example.org for more details. October 7th: Essential Display, London Tutor Judy Head offers a combination of theory and practical hands-on visual display sessions. Students learn how to put together exciting displays, together with rules and guidelines, to help build knowledge and confidence. Contact email@example.com for more details
Trade Fairs & Events September 6th – 8th: IJL 2015, Olympia Grand, London The Diamond Jubilee edition of the fair that showcases British and international jewellery designers, wholesalers and manufacturers. Seminars, catwalk shows and special features are
20th – 21st: Scotland’s Trade Fair, Autumn: SECC, Glasgow Showcasing products that are ideal for the Christmas gift market. Sheila Fleet and Tartan Twist are among the handful of jewellery brands exhibiting. www.scotlandstradefairs.co.uk
also on the programme. See p40 for a full preview of the event. www.jewellerylondon.com 6th – 9th: Autumn Fair, NEC Birmingham Silver, costume and fashion jewellery on offer as part of the show’s Fashion & Accessories sector. Exhibitors include Balagan, Banyan and Leslie Donn. See p64 for a preview of the event. www.autumnfair.com 8th – 12th: Hong Kong Watch & Clock Fair, Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre Asia’s premier showcase for international watch brands in the Salon de Te, plus the main show including clocks, accessories, packaging, machinery and equipment. www.hktdc.com 13th – 15th: Top Drawer A chance to see over 1,000 carefully-selected UK and international exhibitors specialising in design in various forms – including fashion jewellery, gifts and fashion. See p62 for a preview of the show. www.topdrawer.co.uk 18th – 22nd: London Fashion Week, Brewer Street Car Park, London W1 Jewellery showrooms, including Rock Vault with designers such as Imogen Belfield, Jacqueline Cullen and Orenella Iannuzzi. www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
72 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
20th – 22nd: Scoop London, Saatchi Gallery, London SW3 Contemporary and emerging fashion, accessory and jewellery designers (such as Parisian Sweety Jane and Belgian Mathilde Danglade). A new edition of Scoop, in collaboration with LFW and therefore taking advantage of increased visitors to the capital. www.scoop-international.com 24th – 26th: Watches & Jewels, Exhibition grounds, Prague, Czechoslovakia Showcasing all elements of the industry including watches, clocks, fine and fashion jewellery, minerals and investment gold and diamonds. www.hodinyaklenoty.cz October 2nd – 5th: Intergem, Idar-Oberstein International trade fair for gems, jewellery and gemstone objects. The show is renowned for offering one-of-a-kind specialities and rarities, including pearls. Expect classical as well as trend-led jewellery. www.intergem.de
Hans D. Krieger, Intergem
Sales & Exhibitions September 10th – 13th: Elements, Lyon & Turnbull Auctioneers, Broughton Place, Edinburgh Contemporary jewellery and silver selling fair, featuring 40 contemporary, new and established makers from around the UK. The event, created by the Incorporation of Goldsmiths, will also include contemporary silver collections such as the Pearson Collection and Silver of the Stars, among others. www.incorporationofgoldsmiths. org/elements
Sarah Cave, Elements
10th – 24th: Resonance: making, metal & place, CAA Gallery, Southwark St, London SE1 Highlighting outstanding examples of commissioned work in the UK showing imaginative, contemporary metalwork in the urban realm. Jeweller Wendy Ramshaw CBE is one of the diverse group of eight makers specialising in metal. Large scale works as well as photos of site-specific projects will be shown along with jewellery and silverware. Much of it will be for sale. www.londondesignfestival.com 15th – 19th November: A Sense of Jewellery, The Goldsmiths’ Centre, London EC1 Outstanding examples of modern jewellery by 40 artists and designs in Britain, created over the past 40 years. Part of the London Design Festival www.thegoldsmiths-centre.org
18th – 4th January, 2016: The Silversmith’s Art: Made in Britain Today, National Museum of Scotland, Edinburgh This exhibition celebrates the creativity and skill of British silversmiths, showing around 150 masterpieces from 66 acclaimed modern makers (from 2000 to 2015). In conjunction with The Goldsmiths’ Company. www.nms.ac.uk 19th – 27th: The London Design Festival 2015, various venues First staged in 2003, over 350 events and exhibitions staged by hundreds of partner organisations across the design spectrum and from around the world. A cultural and commercial initiative to celebrate and promote London as the design capital of the world. www.londondesignfestival.com 22nd – 27th: Goldsmiths’ Fair, Week One: Goldsmiths’ Hall, London EC2 Internationally-recognised premier showcase for contemporary British designer jewellery and silverware. Buyers can commission or buy directly from the maker. All work exhibited is hallmarked. Expect new exhibitors and specially curated displays as well as talks by the likes of Wartski’s Geoffrey Munn, Vogue’s Carol Woolton, gem specialist Edward Johnson from GIA and Antiques Road Show’s Joanna Hardy. www.goldsmithsfair.co.uk
GIA Gem & Jewelry Career Center
Hannah Martin, Goldsmiths’ Fair
29th – 4th October: Goldsmiths’ Fair, Week Two, Goldsmiths’ Hall The second part of the Fair, which will also include a one-off exhibition featuring highlights from the pioneering career of leading 1960s British jeweller John Donald, as well as a showcase of chosen/favourite highlights, guest-curated by director of London’s Serpentine Gallery, Julia Peyton-Jones. www.goldsmithsfair.co.uk October 22nd – 25th October: Made London, 1 Marylebone, London W1 A design and craft fair showcasing work by top, innovative makers from the UK and abroad. Among the jewellers and silversmiths exhibiting this year will be: Alice Barnes, Hannah Bedford, Laura Bennett, Juliette Bigley, Sarah Herriot and Stuart Jenkins. www.madelondon.org ➥
The Online Destination for Top Companies and Top Talent
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The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology™ 104 Great Russell Street, London WC1B 3LA, UK T +44 (0) 207 813 4321 • E firstname.lastname@example.org Registered Charity No: 1101116 Juliette Bigley, Made London
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…and what to read! light on the subject. Jewellery-wise it features, among others, the tiny building block structures in Jo Hayes Ward’s ‘Hex’ collection, Zac Raven’s watches made by laser-sintering and Marc Newson’s gold, diamond and sapphire necklace created on commission for Boucheron that combined digital technology, mathematics and handcraftsmanship.
Fifty Watches That Changed the World: Design Museum Fifty by Alex Newson £12.99, Octopus Publishing
Digital Handmade – Craftsmanship in the New Industrial Revolution by Lucy Johnston £29.99, Thames & Hudson A contradiction in terms, surely? What right does rational, computer technology have to be mentioned in the same breath as the passionate skill of the craftsman? But before you dismiss the notion… arts journalist and curator Lucy Johnston has set out to demonstrate that in the right hands the two disciplines are coming together to create beautiful bespoke objects. She has assembled 80 case studies from around the world – a global survey of designer makers producing anything from furniture, ceramics and artworks to bicycles, spectacles and… jewellery of course. Profiles of each artisan’s techniques are featured alongside the objects made through a multifaceted process of hand and digital means. They range from the affordable, obtainable and wearable to the extraordinary and priceless. You may shudder at the idea of the ‘new revolution’; you may be struggling to get your head around the concepts of 3D printing or sintering or, perhaps, you’re way ahead of this particular creative game. Wherever you stand, this book will be an eye-opener and certainly shed some (more)
74 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
Part of the Design Museum Fifty series, this little tome must surely belong in the library of anyone involved in the selling of watches, or of anyone who simply loves them. Its study takes us from the early efforts of Le Corbusier and Cartier to the advent of the digital age and the arrival of the smartwatch – important and eye-catching examples. And, just as with ‘Fifty Chairs…’, ‘Fifty Cars…’, ‘Fifty Bags…’, ‘Fifty Shoes…’ etc, the pleasure to be gained here is as much about harrumphing in disagreement over the final choice, as it is about gaining some serious design knowledge about each iconic timepiece chosen. Mind you, it’s probably worth bearing in mind that this particular short list carries the authority of the Design Museum, for which the author has been a curator since 2009.
Vogue – The Jewellery by Carol Woolton (with a foreword by Alexandra Shulman) £75, Conran Octopus (launching early October) A curated collection of more than 300 images (from an archive of a million), taken from the pages of British Vogue; this lavishly illustrated book covers a period of almost 100 years. Five thematic chapters – Showstoppers, Rock Chick, Minimalist, Exotic and Classic – capture the zeitgeist of each new age, while the century of jewellery covers everything from diamond tiaras and jet chokers to
simple strings of pearls and statement cuffs. As Woolton (Vogue’s jewellery editor for the past 14 year explains: “The images from the Vogue archive tell the story of jewellery over the last century as no one else could – from historic jewels integral to the pride of nations to the baubles of Hollywood goddesses such as Elizabeth Taylor, as well as the high-octane glitter from pieces used on iconic Vogue fashion shoots.” As you would expect, the images are beautifully arresting – the photographers featured range from Cecil Beaton, Irving Penn and David Bailey to Bruce Weber and Mario Testino. Meanwhile the commentary on the jewellery itself reflects Woolton’s in-depth knowledge of the craftsmanship involved in its creation and context within which each piece sits. The tome itself is beautifully bound and comes in a clam-shell case. n
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LAST WORD This month we’ve given the Last Word to Victoria McKay, the chief operating officer of the London Diamond Bourse (LDB). Personal profile Victoria started working life as an office junior and by 19 was an award-winning recruitment manager, when she had an unexpected delivery – her son. She was ‘released from her contract’ by an unsympathetic boss, which she says was possibly the best thing that ever happened to her – it fueled her determination to be ambitious and successful. What followed included working in SMEs, top city firms, ecommerce and for a successful entrepreneur. Victoria is constantly surprised that through her career she has found herself in the most unlikely of places, and continues to be enthralled by the journey that lies ahead and the people she meets. She joined the LDB in 2013 as operations manager and was promoted to COO last year. Her role has already seen her change the way the Bourse interacts with the industry, become involved with the WFDB and meet industry professionals at home and abroad. Victoria’s goal now is to work for the betterment of the industry.
What’s your guiltiest pleasure? I can’t believe that I am about to admit publically that my guilty pleasure is watching Jeremy Kyle if I’m at home for the odd weekday. Simply because it makes me grateful to not be in the position of any of the show’s stars. Tell us something not many people know about you... I’m South African and lived in Jo’burg till my teens. Do you Tweet? Yes for work. I Facebook a lot personally – another guilty pleasure. What keeps you awake at night? My son! At 19 years old, he is often out late. I don’t sleep well till I hear him come home. Quick fire
Who has been the biggest influence on your life? Cliché as it is… my mother – a highly intelligent strategist who in her time hit a glass ceiling professionally despite her best efforts. She has always encouraged me to reach for the stars and set me on a certain career path hoping that I would surpass her achievements. I am incredibly grateful for her guidance and council, so making her proud of me both personally and professionally is exceptionally important to me. What led you to follow a career in the diamond industry? I made a choice between working for a high profile PR consultancy with A list clients and the London Diamond Bourse. I followed my heart and haven’t regretted the choice once. What three words describe you best… in your view AND according to others? Me: dedicated, non-conformist, fearless. Others: confident, independent, outspoken. If not this business, what other? I feel I have ‘come home’ and love working in this industry. I can’t imagine working in another now.
• Two wheels or four? Four • Fish ’n’ chips or fruits de mer? Fish ’n’ chips beside the seaside • TV or radio? Playlists • Jewellery on men? (Yes or No?) Yes. Understated jewellery with a fine watch. • Delegator or control freak? Neither.
In my dreams I would have loved to have been a dancer as dancing is the best feeling in the world. In your view what is the biggest issue facing the diamond market right now? In the UK and globally? Profitability is a huge issue for the global diamond industry right now. Problems at the top of the chain are causing major issues throughout the supply chain. In the UK, I see a need to streamline businesses, which would result in improved work practices. Most of all understanding consumers’ buying habits are imperative to the future of the industry.
78 THE JEWELLER AUGUST/SEPTEMBER 2015
I followed my heart and haven’t regretted the choice once. If you could go back in time, what era or moment would you choose? Why? Do I get to go back with my current knowledge? If so, I would like to go back to my early twenties and do it all over again – I’d dance more, live life faster and appreciate the journey more! If I go back without my knowledge, I’d stay put. I’m very happy with where and who I am.
• Cosy night in or wild night out? I’m known by my friends for my ability to put together a crazy party night but then I also love to be cosy at home with my family, in my PJs. • Paperback or e-reader? Paperback!
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