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Jeweller the

April 2013




BaselWorld Preview NAG’s Education Awards Tucson report in Gems&Jewellery

The Voice of The Industry

Contents & Contacts |

Jeweller the

The Voice of The Industry




Basel prepares for Big Business




Editor’s Letter


Industry News


A brand new hall housing almost 2,000 watch,

International News


jewellery and gemstone exhibitors – we preview

NAG News


the phenomenon that is BaselWorld.

Member of the Month






Miles Hoare reports on the NAG’s celebration



of academic achievement within the jewellery industry.



Opinion – John Henn




Brand Profile – Emozioni


Antique Jewellery




Last Word


Presentation of Awards

10 & 48

Pawnbroking for beginners


In our third feature on jewellers offering a pawnbroking service we speak to a retailer who is just starting out on the venture.


The Jeweller is published by the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For more information about The Jeweller visit:

A roundup of the latest news from Gem-A and around

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

the gem trade, including a further report on the Tucson trade show, gem ‘talk’ from Gary Roskin and more…

Cover Image In conjunction with Emozioni – Hot Diamonds

The National Association

Publishing Enquiries/

of Goldsmiths

Classified Advertising:

78a Luke Street,

Neil Oakford

London EC2A 4XG

Tel: 020 7613 4445

Art Director: Ben Page

Editor: Belinda Morris


Tel: 01692 538007

John Henn, Michael Hoare,

Miles Hoare, Amy Oliver

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7613 4445 Fax: 020 7729 0143

Email: Tel: 01889 753331 or visit:

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The NAG accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3

| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

It’s an end of an era! As he takes his final bow, outgoing CEO Michael Hoare reflects on the various highs and lows of the jewellery industry during his 12-year tenure. That’s all Folks!

t the tail end of 2000 I joined an industry with which I was absolutely unfamiliar. I thought my experience of looking after fashion retailers at the old British Shops & Stores Association would stand me in good stead, but I was wrong. In my naivety I thought jewellers would see that their trade was connected to the fashion sector, but I discovered that not to be true. In fact some had more in common with the mind-set of the 17th Century goldsmith bankers than they did with 20th Century fashion retailers. How times have changed! Today the coalition government is bickering about the economy; the liberal wing favouring stimulation through infrastructure spending, the conservative faction insisting we hunker down for more austerity; and the prospects for growth diminish by the day. How different it seems to 2000 when gross domestic product rose by one per cent quarterly, and the century was still relatively untarnished. Lest we forget, the UK’s economic performance was strong during the period 1997-2010. GDP per capita grew faster than in France, Germany, Italy, Japan and the US. Productivity growth – GDP per hour – was second only to the US. And improvements in UK employment rates were actually better than in the US.


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These were halcyon days indeed, with the gold price at around the $280 mark and Mintel estimating the sector’s sales growth at 36.5 per cent between 1995-2001 – to around £3 billion – compared to 29.6 per cent for the sector as a whole; and jewellery sales growth at 4.95 per cent year-on-year even outstripped clothing at 4.5 per cent. What could go wrong? Plenty, it seems! Because about this time jewellers began to wake from a long slumber to discover that the world was changing – and fast! Where once sales hinged on the cycle of Valentine’s Day, engagements, weddings, Christenings and anniversaries that perpetually drove purchases and sustained businesses for multiple generations, suddenly customers wanted more. And what’s more, the industry was soon to be confronted by criticism from the Department for Trade and Industry (remember them?), in the form of a competitiveness analysis. The DTI’s accusations came thick and fast, including failure to understand the shape or potential of the market because of minimal consumer research; feeble one per cent of turnover advertising spend when compared to the 10-11 per cent spent by sellers of mobile phones, holidays, electronics, entertainment, and other goods competing

for discretionary spending; little added value in terms of environment, service, innovation and after sales; and lack of business positioning, such that customers didn’t recognise jewellers’ profile or brand values. Added to this jewellers stood accused of poor performance measurement, most only logging annual sales growth and sales per square foot, having no idea how much they could sell. And finally, woeful underinvestment, with most independent sector profits taken out as annual dividends, rather than re-invested in future business. Manufacturers didn’t escape either, standing accused of sticking with tried and tested methods despite being uncompetitive, and of inefficiency and failure to adapt to or predict trends. Their action agenda called for improvements in sector leadership; improvement of the design process; supply chain efficiencies; benchmarking and best practice; and greater education and training. You can decide if the last decade has seen improvements in any of the above, but let’s ask ourselves, “Is this fair criticism?” Well, the hallmarking figures for gold items, having fallen from about 25 million in 2002 to nearer four million in 2012, might tell their own story about manufacturing in the UK, but what about retail?

Comment | Certainly, my first impression was that, with enlightened exceptions, the independent turn of the century jeweller was still to grasp the power of visual merchandising, eschewing the ‘less-is-more’ display techniques that their fashion brethren used to tantalise and draw shoppers inside. Equally, most shop layouts didn’t encourage free flow and browsing, with security almost used as an excuse to discourage customers. Realisation of the power of brands to attract attention and drive add-on sales was yet to hit home. The notion that the drop off in weddings might affect ring sales didn’t register, and range planning and buying were regarded as black arts, with little regard given to the shifting taste, demographics, celebrity culture, emerging urban tribes, or special interest – be it gay, grey, or extreme sports! As a result, many owner-buyers with their tried and tested ‘favourites’, were bewildered by depressed sales. The idea of controlled product ranges, increasing stock-turn, seasonality and merchandising discipline were alien concepts to many. Plus, too many owners stuck to the claim that their ‘name above the door’ was their brand, but then failed to project its ideals or protect its values. And, I’m sorry to say, standards of sales and management training weren’t of the highest order, often sinking to the lowest common denominator at all levels. Don’t misunderstand me. If this all sounds like a terrible indictment of the jewellery trade… stop right there, because I want to make one thing perfectly clear. Nearly all of its woes were the result of decades of success characterised by solid businesses handed down for generations. Why else would so many independents still survive? Their only ‘crime’ was to be a little complacent and perhaps a little naïve in assuming that the good times would continue to roll. With the benefit of hindsight we can now see that a decade ago we stood on the brink of massive change. The intervening years have brought us some unpredictable challenges – and some that were all too predictable – but when you think of it we’ve done pretty well to deal with most; take regulation, certification and disclosure; the Kimberley Process and the ethics debate; threats to hallmarking; money laundering legislation; the Gold Standard, and countless other issues. Neither the internet, nor TV shopping, have killed the sector stone dead as predicted, nor will they – both playing a solid part in all our futures, if we use them wisely. Plus the retail trade has taken remarkable strides in all the areas listed above, even if the gold price has increased five-fold, we’ve sacrificed a little bit of trust, and we’re all a little more hard-headed as a result. As for the future, it would take several more pages to tell you what I think that holds, but I haven’t the space or time, for my time is up and I must bid you farewell and take my leave. Thank you for having me along for the ride and letting me share the experience, it’s been fun. But now, that’s all folks!

The Voice of the Industry 5


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Comment | This month:



“In the past many would only visit [Basel] if they had watch businesses… but there are so many new jewellery brands to discover as well as new trends…”

he very first thing I must do, before giving you a taster of what’s to come later in this


issue, is say hello to the NAG’s new chief executive. I met Michael Rawlinson at a recent

CMJ event as he was being introduced to our industry by Board member Andrew Hinds. He looked absolutely nothing like a man being thrown in at the deep end, but, actually very much up for it all and raring to get stuck in. And he hadn’t even officially taken over the helm of the Luke Street team at that point! He’s here now though, so welcome to our world Michael, we’re all looking forward to working with you. If we really wanted to subject him to trial by fire, we could, of course, have suggested that Michael attend BaselWorld later this month. The mind-boggling scale of this fair – which, thanks to a new hall complex, has just got bigger – induces information and visual overload in the most seasoned of visitors. For those that are making the trip to Switzerland though,

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our Basel feature on p22 offers a Look Book preview of some of the watch and jewellery collections being launched this year. Those definitely in attendance at BaselWorld are the team members from Gem-A, who will once again have a presence in the gemstone sector (Hall of Elements, Hall 3) after a 20-year hiatus from the fair. Apart from welcoming Gem-A members to the stand, they will be bringing back reports for future issues of Gems&Jewellery and The Jeweller, but before then there’s James Riley’s impressions of the Tucson Show following his first ever visit to the gemstone event (p.13 G&J). There’s another Very Big One! On a somewhat smaller scale, but nonetheless of huge significance to those in the NAG,

“…Andrew Fellows and I (AKA Laurel and Hardy) competed to see who could find the most unusual and dangerous gemstone”

are the Education Awards which took place at the Goldsmiths’ Hall in London last month. If you were one of the many triumphant students who collected your certificate that evening, you will find your name listed in the honourable roll call, following Miles Hoare’s account of the glittering occasion on p48. Finally, I’m not going to mention the weather. So boring, I refuse to… duh!

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at:

Gems&Jewellery page 15

The Voice of the Industry 7

| Industry News

F Hinds signs up to Gold Standard ewellers F Hinds is the first and currently the only national gold buyer to have signed up to The Gold Standard – a voluntary agreement that ensures its customers will be treated fairly, will get a good price and will receive free face-to-face advice, item by item. It also makes it harder for thieves to sell their stolen goods as comprehensive evidence of identity is required. The group has offered a Cash for Gold programme in all of its 112 stores for the last five years. The Gold Standard is a voluntary code of conduct for the purchase of secondhand precious metal and jewellery, and is a partnership initiative between the police, jewellery and pawnbroking industries. The Gold Standard is endorsed by the NAG, BJA, National Pawnbrokers Association, Association of Chief Police Officers,


Trading Standards Institute and National Measurement Office. F. Hinds’ Cash for Gold scheme has the support of the police who have expressed their satisfaction with its practices and endorse it as a model of how a responsible gold buyer should operate. The aim is for the public to be able to see at a glance which retailers meet the Gold Standard and use them in preference to gold buyers who can’t show that they don’t deal in stolen goods. “The Gold Standard is an excellent example of how Hertfordshire Constabulary is working in partnership with others to make life difficult for the criminal who wants to sell stolen gold and jewellery,” said Inspector Paul Lawrence, Community Safety and Crime Reduction Department County Crime Prevention. “It spotlights those jewellers who trade responsibly by introducing

a number of verification measures enshrined in The Gold Standard. This initiative is intended to provide both the retailer and the customer with a sense of added security, whilst making it difficult for criminals to dispose of stolen property.” Pravin Pattni, chairman of the NAG commented: “The Gold Standard is a vital part of halting the worrying increase in thefts of Asian gold and the targeting of Asian households by burglars. Requiring the seller to prove full identity and the eweller to keep comprehensive records, makes it far harder for criminals to sell stolen gold. It will also help the police identify thieves. We believe that the public will strongly support those companies who follow the highest ethical practices by only selling their gold and other precious metal at a Gold Standard retailer."

The Jewellery Show London announces content programme he Jewellery Show London (11th – 12th June, 2013) has lined up key industry experts, including retailers, for its speaker programme at this year’s exhibition. This year also sees the launch of The Watch Salon London, which will run alongside the main event, offering a selection of premium watch brands including Seiko and B&Q Watches, supplier of pre-owned Rolex, Cartier, Breitling, Omega, Bulgari, Hublot and Patek Philippe timepieces. Taking over Somerset House, The Jewellery Show London and The Watch Salon London – organised by i2i Events Group – will also offer seminars and trend-led catwalks which will take place across two theatres. Sharing her inside knowledge, Helen Dimmick from Green + Benz will present an independent’s perspective: Building a Brand for Your Boutique; while a panel of experts will discuss how to interpret fashion trends into a


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commercial jewellery collection. Other talks will examine the ethical sourcing of materials and adapting to an increasingly brand-driven market, plus trend tips and styling advice and talks from leading British designers Alexis Dove and Babette Wasserman. A dedicated seminar theatre to The Watch Salon London will welcome key speakers including Jon Parker, horology lecturer from the Birmingham School of Jewellery, who will explore Innovations in Design – the newest techniques and practices being employed within the industry. As the desire for pre-owned watches increases Wesley Suter, MD of Steffans The Jewellers will explore jewellery retailers can capitalise on this growing market. Looking at how to incorporate pre-owned watches into other collections, the regulations with regards to servicing and repair, advice on brands to stock and in-store marketing and sales tips Watch

Warehouse eCommerce director David Epstein will take to the stage to explain how to run a successful online business while Robert Loome watches director, whose speciality is the quintessentially English timepiece, will join C W Sellors director Chris Sellors, to discuss new developments taking place within the watch industry. For more information visit:

Industry News |

Budget implications for UK retailers ccording to the British Independent Retailers Association (BIRA) the Chancellor delivered two out of three of its suggestions made beforehand but also ‘turned the screw on the high street’. Action on the job tax National Insurance and action on Corporation Tax was heeded, says a BIRA spokesperson, but he kept the pressure on high street retailers by pressing ahead with a 2.6 per cent increase in business rates, bringing down a blow weighing 175 million pounds on this ‘buckling sector’. “The Chancellor should think on the fact that every independent that closes shuts the door on ten jobs,” he said. New NAG CEO Michael Rawlinson agrees that the Budget had negative as well as positive aspects. “It was very disappointing that the Chancellor did not assist the high street by acting to reverse the planned increase in business rates. These will have a direct negative effect on every NAG member, particularly our larger members, who have hundreds of stores on which they pay business rates,” he said. “On a modest positive note, the increase in personal tax thresholds and the scrapping the planned 3p hike in full duty, that was due in September, will provide some additional spending in consumers’ hard pressed pockets. We can only hope that they choose to spend some of this extra cash on cheering themselves up with a new piece of jewellery or a timepiece. Times are tough in British homes and I can see no signs to encourage me that anything is going to change anytime soon,” he added .

S N I P P E T S Domino designers win Goldsmiths’ Awards


TH Baker 125 years great jewellery ‘giveaway’ H Baker, the Brierley Hill-based jeweller which operates 20 stores in the Midlands and Southern England, is marking its 125th year in the industry with the launch of a £125,000 jewellery giveaway. Customers old and new are invited to fill out forms in the store and answer a question about the company for their chance to win prizes each month throughout the year. As well as jewellery and watches from bestselling collections, a ‘star’ prize is awarded each month, which so far have included a Mastercut diamond necklace and an Omega watch. In addition to the competition, TH Baker (which was founded in 1888 by Thomas Henry Baker on Brierley Hill High Street) the store will host various events during 2013, with the main anniversary party being held in October.


W Major & Sons to close its doors ormer NAG chairman Nicholas Major has announced that his store, William Major & Sons in East Grinstead, will be closing its doors on 15th April this year after 110 years trading. Brothers Nick and Keith Major are the third-generation of the Major family to run the business which started trading in the West Sussex town in 1903 and was famously commissioned to create replicas of the Crown Jewels for an overseas client in 1969. However, due to pending retirements the brothers plan to sell the family business and continue to work in the jewellery industry on a private, by appointment, basis. Nicholas was upbeat about the business and the future, saying: “We have been an amazing team over the years and one just has to realise that this partnership is coming to an end.”


Natasha Bagnall and Siobhan Maher, designers in Domino’s New Product Development team, have won awards in the 2013 Goldsmiths’ Craftsmanship and Design Awards. Bagnall took the Gold Award in the ‘3D Design – Contemporary Jewellery in Gold or Platinum’ category for her ‘Heroa’ necklace in platinum and diamonds with ruby highlights set in 18ct yellow gold. This piece also received the ‘IJL Special Award’, and will be displayed at IJL in September. Maher took Silver Award in 2D Fine Jewellery Design for her onyx and sapphire necklace. She was also a joint winner of the Marcia Lanyon Special Award for innovative use of coloured stones. Warrenders hail cab for ads Surrey’s long established family jeweller Warrenders has used one of London’s icons, the London taxi, to promote its business. Based from Sutton Station the Warrenders cab will be the first thing travellers see as they step off the train. Decorated in the company’s classic livery of dark green and gold it features images of jewellery to grab the attention. Inside the cab the advertising continues on the flip up seats giving passengers all the information on the store that they need.

The Voice of the Industry 9

| Industry News

Assay Office mourns loss of former Master Bernard Ward ernard Ward OBE, the former Assay Master of the Birmingham Assay Office passed away on the 15th March 2013 at the age of 78. He had been ill for some time and leaves a widow Margaret and children Val and Michael. During his 15 years at the helm Bernard reinvigorated the business. He encouraged progress through expansion and exemplary customer service, acquired new equipment and boosted team effort, to position Birmingham as the largest assay office in the UK in just three years. Today the Birmingham Assay Office enjoys a reputation in the jewellery industry and beyond as leaders in the field of service and technical expertise – a fitting testimony to the ground work laid down by Bernard Ward. In recognition of all of his hard work and achievements and for services to the jewellery industry, Bernard received an OBE at Buckingham Palace on 20th May 1999, the day of his 65th Birthday.

S N I P P E T S Tustains expands store


New jewellery department for F&M iccadilly emporium Fortnum & Mason launched its new jewellery department last month, offering a showcase for a number of British and international jewellery designers. Located on the second floor of the store, the space provides a showcase for top names such as Stephen Webster, Katie Rowland and Vivienne Westwood. In addition, the department has also played host to five designers in the British Fashion Council’s Rock Vault initiative, including Tomasz Donocik, Melanie Georgacopoulos and Fernando Jorge. Summing up the new department, which will carry fashion as well as fine jewellery, buyer Jo Newton said: “This is a curated collection of jewellery that is a perfect balance of the modern and the traditional. We will always seek out the unusual and the original for our store, and there will be a real sense of theatre around these beautiful pieces.”


UK shop window competition his year, as part of Jewellery Week’s events in June (7th – 16th), a nationwide competition is being launched to find the ‘best jewellery shop window’, across independents, multiples and department stores. There will be five categories to cover the variety of retail options in the initiative which is being run in association with the BJA. In answer to the Mary Portas’ call “to help ‘bring back the bustle’ to our town centres” Jewellery week is calling on businesses, local authorities and shoppers across the country to put jewellery retailers back on the map and get behind it’s campaign to help create high streets that we can all be proud of”. Jewellery retailers are being asked to design a shop window that will “entice passers-by, wow their customer base and put the shop in the running for a UK Jeweller Award, national press coverage and lots of prizes. Jewellery designers are being encouraged to lobby their stockists to get involved and feature them in their prize-winning window. Interested retailers need to register and become a Jewellery Week member (£200 + VAT) and all window entries, with 250 words to describe the window, must be registered by 30th May, 2013. The display has to be up for the duration of Jewellery Week – although it can be longer. Photos of windows must be sent by 7th June. For further information visit


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NAG members Tustains has expanded its Royal Leamington Spa store to ‘accommodate its growing stock and clientele’. A second private consultation room has been added, allowing staff the freedom to give more time and attention to customers within a quiet environment. As well as the new look, Tustains, which was established in 1895 and is run by brothers Joe and Tom Milner, is soon to unveil its new website which will include a ‘click and collect’ service. Mappin & Webb sponsors Young Ambassador Award Royal Warrant holder Mappin & Webb was the sponsor of the Young Ambassador of the Year Award for The Prince’s Trust Celebrate Success Awards which took place in London on 26th March. The annual awards recognise the significant achievements of disadvantaged young people supported by the Trust who have succeeded against the odds, improved their chances in life and had a positive impact on their local community. Nude Jewellery launches design competition Mayfair independent jewellery retailer Nude Jewellery is running a competition for recently graduated designer makers. From submissions received by 18th April owner Nikki Galloway will select the top three designers. The shop’s Facebook fans will then have 14 days to choose their favourite. The chosen candidate will then have the chance for their work to be exhibited in Nude Jewellery for three months. Visit:

| Industry News

Green + Benz launches ring design system anchester-based jewellers Green + Benz has got together with German fine jewellery supplier Henrich & Denzel (H&D) to launch a technologically-advanced online ‘customer configuration system’. The website allows the user to create his or her own H&D ring through 10 parameters: profile, width, height, material, size and type of diamond, number and position of stones, engravings and surface finish. The available range encompasses wedding and engagement rings and sets, diamond bands, friendship and dress rings and partner bands. Once configured the designs can be saved, emailed or downloaded as a PDF, after which they are taken to a Green + Benz store to discuss and amend if need-be and then finalise the order. “Working with H&D we have created an individual, unique route that engages and excites the customer as they experience the very best in technology and the physical retail experience,” said Green + Benz MD Helen Dimmick.


Fable Trading clarifies recent Pandora deal able Trading Ltd, the UK distributor for Danish charm bead brand Trollbeads, in the UK and Ireland, has confirmed that Pandora is not set to take over all future intellectual property (IP) rights relating to Trollbeads glass bead designs. Pandora announced on 15th March that it will pay Danish Trollbeads, £21.9m, for all IP rights relating to glass bead designs created by Trollbeads founder, Lise Aagaard. The announcement was followed by speculation in the media that Pandora would take over future IP rights to Trollbeads designs. Fable Trading has confirmed that this speculation was unfounded and clarified that the payment related only to an historic agreement made between Aagaard and Pandora, when the company was in its early days. Aagaard provided glass-bead making guidelines and designs to Pandora to enable the company to develop glass beads for sale under the Pandora name. The company has now bought the IP rights to these designs; there is no agreement regarding future designs and no effect on Trollbeads business going forward.


Mallory winner of Fope competition ill Neil of Mallory Jewellers, Bath has been announced the winner of Fope’s annual Dream Ticket competition. Each year the Italian fine jewellery company incentivises its retailers by offering staff a chance to win a luxurious experience, as reward for generating the most sales for the brand over the Christmas period. As her prize Gill chose to visit the Fope factory and have the chance to create her own Flex’it bracelet.


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S N I P P E T S Tomassa Goldsmiths launch London-based on-line fine jewellery brand Tomassa is targeting high street customers for the first time as it goes into partnership with Goldsmiths. The Indian Summer collection will be available from early June in 16 stores, including Westfield, London; Trafford Centre, Manchester and Meadowhall, Sheffield. The hand-finished 18ct gold vermeil pieces feature gems. Sophie Harley creates line for Roos Beach Jewellery designer Sophie Harley has collaborated with new Cornish jewellery boutique Roos Beach to create a sea and beach-inspired collection of silver and gold vermeil pieces. Necklaces, earrings and ankle bracelets will feature Harley’s signature charms as well as fish bones, talismanic sharks’ teeth, scallop shells, surfboards and sea horses. The line is available to other retailers outside of the Cornwall area. John Pass opens new shop The Crewe-based third generation jewellery business John Pass has opened a third luxury showroom in Newcastle-under-Lyme. The store is in a Grade II listed building in the town’s pedestrianised shopping area and includes a Rolex room and an Omega shop-in-shop as well as John Pass fine diamond jewellery. The store will also offer on-trend collections from Pandora, Links of London and Thomas Sabo. Also part of the business is The Box in Stoke-on-Trent. Herts police seek help Hertfordshire Constabulary is appealing for help following a house burglary, which happened between 12th and 19th of February, in Borehamwood. Photographs have been released of some of the many items of jewellery and watches stolen, including a double-row pearl and sapphire necklace which the owner is particularly keen to retrieve. The jewellery is not only expensive but of sentimental value to the victim. Anyone with information should contact DC Guy Reynolds via the non-emergency 101 number, quoting crime reference J1/13/587. Images of the jewellery can be viewed under Op Akora on:


| NAG News

Michael Rawlinson appointed as new CEO he National Association of Goldsmiths has appointed Michael Rawlinson as its new CEO. Rawlinson who has held senior roles, most recently as director general of UKIE, the UK Interactive Entertainment association that represents video games and interactive entertainment developers and publishers, joined the Association on 2nd April. He has been an industry spokesperson with considerable experience of working with the media, the UK government and in Brussels on behalf of his association, as well as holding a background in retailing and consumer goods. During his time as an association head, Rawlinson has introduced new services for members, worked widely with related associations, developed codes of practice and managed the full range of activities which lively trade associations carry out.


Commenting on his new appointment, Rawlinson said: “I am really enthusiastic about the opportunity to follow in Michael Hoare’s footsteps and to work with the team of excellent people at the NAG: members, staff, officers and other directors. The jewellery industry is a vibrant and everchanging one to be working in and there are exciting challenges ahead for the NAG… I look forward to leading the team that will deliver the right services for our members, who face a very challenging and dynamic marketplace, and I am keen for the Association to realise its full potential”. NAG chairman Pravin Pattni commented on the decision to appoint Rawlinson as CEO saying: “The selection panel worked with an expert in recruiting senior staff for associations and considered a very broad range of candidates with diverse backgrounds including leading associations, the jewellery

New Policy & Research executive to join the NAG ontinuing with our staff introductions, the NAG is welcoming yet another new member to the team. As of 24th April 2013 the NAG will welcome Nieema Alom to the team to take on the position previously held by Faye Hadlow – that of Policy and Research executive. Despite the somewhat political-sounding title, the role is an essential part of the workings of the NAG and includes resolving disputes and updating our members on consumer and retail law. Nieema will be supporting both the press and marketing teams as well as the new CEO in driving forward policy issues and lobbying on behalf of the NAG members and the wider jewellery industry. Nieema has a background in public Affairs, development and politics, and joins the NAG from the London Borough of Newham, the main Olympic host borough, where she campaigned extensively on


14 The Jeweller April 2013

behalf of the local authority on various welfare reforms and National Minimum Wage issues. During her time at Newham, Nieema worked to raise the profile of the borough during the Games and to secure a meaningful legacy for local residents. As part of this, she established and managed the All Party Parliamentary Group for Urban Regeneration, Sport and Culture, which scrutinised Olympic legacy plans for east London within Parliament. Nieema has a wide range of experience in governmental, regulatory and development roles while also having completed a masters degree in anthropology, development and human rights at the University of London’s Goldsmiths’ College. She has also worked for a women's charity focussing on employment rights and has previously worked within the retail jewellery sector for seven years with the Signet Group, Pravins, and Selfridges.

trade, retailing and training, to mention but a few. A very thorough process narrowed the field from almost 150 – leaving Michael Rawlinson as the right person to manage the NAG and work with the team to take the Association forward.” Pravin went on to say: “We’re delighted that Michael has accepted the position and look forward to working with him over the coming years.” Turn to p58 to learn a little more about our new CEO who has been given The Last Word.

Kate Madelin named temporary education manager t the moment Luke Street is buzzing with the promised pitter-patter of tiny feet. No, we’re not starting a crèche – but as of April this year we will be losing Education Manager Victoria Wingate as she prepares to take maternity leave for the next 12 months. Victoria has been with the Association for the last 23 years and has been managing the education department for 13 of those years. With Victoria’s departure, the reigns of the education department will be handed over to Kate Madelin. Kate has over 13 years experience of planning and implementing national education and skills policy. During this time, Kate has worked for an accountancy body, two sector skills councils and been head of the workforce development department at a London college.


NAG News |

NAG appoints new marketing and communications officer e know what you’re thinking: “Enough with the introductions already!” And we know. We’re sorry. We’re even getting confused ourselves. However, we promise this is the last one… honest. Earlier this year we sadly lost a new member of staff. Charley Torr, who joined the NAG in late 2012 did a sterling job of taking on the updates in NAG marketing and branding materials (as many of you will have noticed with the new prospectus and education logos). However, due to personal circumstances she had to leave the Association to find work closer to home. We now have news of her successor however. As of 4th April we welcome Arafa Kumbuka who will join the Association as Marketing & Communications officer. Tanzania-born Arafa joins us from the London School of Science & Technology where she was marketing and administrations officer. In 2010 she gained a masters degree in Strategic Management from De Montfort University. On accepting the post Arafa said she was: “looking forward to joining the NAG and the new opportunities this role will bring. Most of all I’m excited about working with everyone in and around the Association.”


New Member Applications To ensure that NAG Members are aware of new applications for NAG Membership within their locality, applicants’ names are published below. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Amy Oliver on 020 7613 4445 or email her at: within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Applications Winski’s of Kinross, Kinross

Alumni Associate Applications Joanne Wicker, Ashford, Kent Jacqueline van Heesewijk, Ripley, Surrey Sabrina O’Cock, London Alasdair Parker, Kilmarnock Rebecca Share, Halesowen, Worcestershire

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers Karra J Willmott PJDip JPGemDip PJValDip FGA, S Warrender & Co, Sutton. Alan Wetherall PJDip FGA DGA, Cellini, Cambridge.

Retired Members 2012 A. Horner Jewellers Ltd, Huddersfield, West Yorkshire Bucks Jewellers, Stoke-On-Trent, Staffordshire Fournel Jewellers Ltd, Aldeburgh, Suffolk Howkins Jewellers, Great Yarmouth, Norfolk K. Batchelor, Dartford, Kent M. Naulls & Co., Louth, Lincolnshire Percy A. Thomas & Son, Rhyl, Clwyd S. A. Iles, Swindon, Wiltshire

International trophy preparations in full-swing N

ational pride is at stake this May as the titans of British golf go head-to-head for another ‘bloody’ round at this year’s NAG International Golf Tournament. Taking place in the home-country of last year’s winners, Ireland, the battle for the International Trophy will take place at the awe-inspiring Druids Glen in Wicklow, on 20th May. The International will see England, Wales, Scotland and last year’s champions, Ireland go mano-a-mano to clinch the much-coveted trophy which was first presented in 2011. England is seeking to dampen the hopes of cup-holders Ireland who took the trophy back to home turf in 2012 and add to their first victory two years ago. Still struggling for players, the Welsh team has put out a desperate plea, with the team manager urging potential Welsh sign-ups to think about taking up golf, saying: “It’s like rugby, but with sticks and smaller balls and no physical contact. There is also ample opportunity to drink cider.” Frank Woods, NAG treasurer and enthusiastic golfer urged members to think about getting involved saying: “It promises to be another really fun year. The course is fantastic. It’s situated about 20 miles south of Dublin and is renowned as one of the best golfing locations in Europe. Part of the Irish Open for four years, the course hosted the Seve Trophy (a prestigious prize often called the ‘Augusta of Europe’) and has seen many famous faces throughout its long history. To find out more about NAG golf days, talk to Frank on 01904 625274, or email him at

Wilson McQueen, Craigavon, N. Ireland

Resigned Members 2012 21st Century Silver, Esher, Surrey Ballymoss Retail Ltd, Dublin, Ireland Bluestreams Ltd, Harrow, Greater London C. L. Jeffries, Newport, Gwent Charles Howell, Oldham, Lancashire David Cormack, Wick, Highland Greenspark Ltd, Cheadle, Cheshire John Cadby FGA DGA, Trowbridge, Wiltshire Kalischer, Finchley, London Neal Gray Jewellers Ltd, Richmond, Surrey Ruppenthal (UK) Ltd, West Wickham, Kent Silver Mine, Cheltenham, Gloucestershire Swan jewellery, Thame, Oxfordshire T A Mercer, Enniskillen, Co. Fermanagh, N. Ireland The Bench, St. Lawrence, Jersey The Gem Den, Penrith, Cumbria The PMC Studio Ltd, Chesham, Buckinghamshire Uno, Swansea, Glamorgan Westover Jewellers Ltd, Bournemouth, Dorset William Taylor, Nottingham, Nottinghamshire

The Voice of the Industry 15

| NAG News

NAG Member of the Month In this issue’s Member of the Month, Amy Oliver speaks to Sara Sweet of Sonkai, who along with her partner Craig Snape runs an alternative jewellers in the heart of Norwich offering bespoke services and many original pieces. Sonkai is one of a growing number of retail jewellery businesses established by jewellery designers; what was the motivation behind setting up in the retail trade? This was more opportunity than design… We had been looking for a suitable workshop space when a tiny silver boutique came up for sale. It was in the beautiful and historic ‘Norwich Lanes’ part of the city centre, and was therefore a perfect start-up location and size for us to take on. We knew nothing about retail and have been on a steep learning curve ever since. This month you celebrate the 7th anniversary of the business – do you have anything special planned? We are planning some events but not until late August/September time. We moved from our original shoe-box of a shop to our current spacious new premises just 18 months ago and in almost every way it has been like starting up again from scratch, effectively born-again. We had a first birthday event last August and will continue with these each year. We’re also expecting a new baby quite soon, as well as being in the process of interviewing and training new staff and so our hands are a little full this spring!

As well as all your bespoke and own collection work, you offer jewellery ranges from other designers too. With so much choice in the industry, how do you choose which designers to stock? Staying focussed and true to what our tastes and style suits is vital, as we are by no means sales people and so have to have a real love and respect for every item we suggest for our customers. We strive to source from British designer-makers (who are genuinely making their products in the UK), but are also very proud stockists of other high quality and well established international stars, such as Vendorafa from Italy and the exceptional talent of the Portuguese filigree masters at Eleuterio. They all offer faultless craftsmanship, unique design and have genuine care and passion for their work. We take great pride in our work and great care to maintain a very high standard with all our in-house commissions and handmade pieces. Being able to feel confident that our non-Sonkai items offer the same level of service and skill for our customers is a very important part of choosing new stock. There has been a lot of focus in government and in the national media regarding employment schemes. You currently

employ an apprentice; what impact would you say this has had on your business? I am so far undecided on the current schemes. It was enormously frustrating, difficult and confusing when we took our apprentice on, with many months of conflicting information and advice from varying sources. Our prospective apprentices have so far been mature art school graduates, rather than a fresh teenage school-leaver and the age issue is a real barrier. In the end we didn’t follow any scheme and worked out our own contract. Would you recommend hiring apprentices to other jewellers? Ultimately we found that having the time to teach, while running a very busy workshop, was the hardest part to manage. Ideally we need to have a second experienced jeweller to assist with the workload and training. For us, one person alone is not quite enough to maintain what we consider to be adequate support and time. On a lighter note, is there a memorable customer anecdote you’d like to divulge? Oh goodness, so many… from the plain daft such as one chap who couldn’t understand why we were unable to ‘fill’ his hollow gold pig pendant by pouring molten gold into it; and the people that are shocked to discover that their jewellery is not indestructible, regardless of what they do to it… Then we have ‘Craig’s Following’; an abundance of flirty older ladies (who take a real shine to the ‘young man’ and give the rest of us endless material to tease him with) making comments about fingers in rings and pearl necklaces – which often leaves Craig red-faced and attempting a delicate explanation to any younger staff members of what the customer was insinuating! If you would like your business to be considered as Member of the Monthsend an email to:

16 The Jeweller April 2013

| NAG News: Education & Training

Students celebrated in annual awards In keeping with long-standing tradition the NAG invited students to the Goldsmiths’ Hall on Wednesday 13th March for its annual Presentation of Awards. Members of the Professional Jewellers fraternity were in attendance for an evening that marked the successes of JET students over the last 12 months. Miles Hoare was there. or those of you well-versed in the ways of The Jeweller and our education department, you will know that this time of year is always reserved for the celebration of those people who have devoted hours


18 The Jeweller April 2013

of their time to learning their trade. Not only that, the Presentation of Awards also gives us the chance to congratulate and recognise excellence, while also celebrating the people who make it all happen – the knowledgeable

few who give something back to the trade. I’m of course talking about the tutors, moderators and members of the education committee, many of whom have nurtured industry-leading talent over the past so many years, giving hours of their time freely and altruistically. This year’s event was no exception. With opening speeches from chairman Pravin Pattni and his predecessor Nicholas Major, audience members were invited to “relish in the success of their achievements”, as Michael Hoare quoted from behind the lectern. Father-daughter team NAG president John Pyke and NAG education committee chair Eleanor Pyke discussed the past and future of the education department – dwelling on the loss of a much-loved tutor as Anthony Sibley retires and that of an industry leader, with the departure of CEO Michael Hoare. However, with this sense of loss pervading proceedings the Pyke team ensured us that “there lay plenty of challenges ahead, but we’re excited about meeting them head-on”. Eleanor went on to discuss how over the last few months the education department has seen a complete re-branding and re-focusing of the NAG training packages. She went on to say how this, along with a complete shift in the staff and culture at the NAG, spells a new era for the Association. Much like students who graduated this year, the award ceremony marks the turning of a corner for them and for the Association. The evening continued with the presentation of awards for students who’ve completed a JET course over the last year. President John Pyke awarded certificates to each graduate, with the Greenough Trophy and Gemstone Award going to the students who performed best on the JET 2 and Gemstone course, respectively – and the JET 1 Bransom Award winners were invited to collect a certificate honouring their special achievement. The winners of these coveted trophies, along with a full list of graduates, are revealed on p48 onwards. With all awards presented, there was only time left to pay a special tribute to Anthony Sibley who has taught the NAG’s Gemstone Diploma for the past 30 years. Anthony was presented with a special commemorative plaque to remind him of his time serving the NAG and our students. On receiving this token of appreciation Anthony said: “I really

NAG News: Education & Training | will miss it. It’s kept me in touch with the trade and allowed me to put something back into an industry that has been my entire life.” As the applause died down students were invited to a drinks reception with industry leaders – a chance to network, let their hair down and continue their celebrations into the evening. Leaving just an exhausted education department to pick up the leftovers! Although, having said that – we’re not going to lie – we had a great time. And for that we’d like to thank all students, parents and tutors who came and showed their support. We’d also like to thank Anthony Sibley for his years of service to the Association and we wish him all the best for the future.

Anthony Sibley receives his commemorative plaque from NAG President John Pyke

Surely not more winners? Yes Shirley, more winners. And this time they’re Bransom’s… lthough we’ve been busy with this year’s awards ceremony we’ve still found time and space to announce the winner of the coveted Bransom JET 1 Project Assignment Award for 2013. Held in conjunction with our friends at Bransom Retail Systems, each month the education department enters all JET 1 assignments into a competition for ‘best project’. From assignments received this February – selected by the external examiners – the


award goes to Ruth Davis of auctioneers Lyon and Turnbull in Edinburgh. The course moderator told The Jeweller: “Ruth’s final piece of course work on JET 1 was a masterpiece of gathering all the relevant interesting information about the subject of diamonds, researching with a clear understanding the nature of the answer online. The attention to detail was outstanding, particularly with regards to the coverage of the four C’s. One interesting addition was the mention of the fifth ‘C’ in diamond grading – ‘Certification’ – with strong evidence of research having been carried out by the reference to diamond treatments.” Ruth’s tutor, Mark Houghton was extremely impressed by Ruth’s professionalism and attention to detail which showed she was a “very worthy winner of the Bransom Award. All of Ruth’s assignments have not only been extensive in their content but also extremely well researched and referenced,” he added. “Ruth has managed to supply some excellent work-related examples which have helped to illustrate her responses. This is an excellent example of what hard work and effort can produce for students and has duly been acknowledged.” The Jeweller briefly caught up with Ruth to ask how it felt to win the award. “I was

extremely surprised to be chosen – it’s great really. I definitely enjoyed doing it, and it’s very good to know all the hard work has been worthwhile. “I started JET 1 after about a month in the trade, having joined Lyon & Turnball on an internship straight from university. I joined as an auction house cataloguer – so the learning curve is very steep. My employer put me onto JET 1 straight away and it really helped – so much so I’m taking JET 2 this coming year. “I’m now much more confident with dealing with clients and using my knowledge to apply to the cataloguing. It’s given me a grounding of knowledge to work and build upon. I’d like to thank my manager Trevor Kyle, for giving me the opportunity to take the course.” The education department would like to congratulate Ruth on her extremely hard work, and wish her continued success in her work and future studies. Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. For more information on the JET courses, go to or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). For information on Bransom go

The Voice of the Industry 19

| NAG News: IRV Review

NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R






Qualifications to be proud of Sandra Page reports on the achievements of IRV members, an early Loughborough Conference and an opportunity to tour the famous Blue John Cavern while you are there!

Fellowship of the Institute The Institute is delighted to report that since the 2012 Loughborough Conference IRV Paul Johnston PJDip FGA of John H Lunn, Belfast has become a Fellow of the Institute. Paul will be collecting his FIRV certificate in front of his peers at this year’s Loughborough Conference (you can read all about it in next month’s issue). A MIRV can graduate to a FIRV and thus gain a higher level of visible professionalism and increased earning potential through Continual Professional Development (CPD). Today CPD is the norm for a truly competent organisation and increasingly a recognised badge of professionalism to the outside world. The Institute has embraced this concept. Becoming a FIRV is open and accessible to all MIRVs and can be seen as a true achievement as opposed to a ‘right of passage’. It is based on a carefully balanced menu of awards for contributing activities such as attending seminars and conferences, passing trade-related examinations, attending trade fairs, exhibitions, etc. To allow some flexibility, without diluting the qualification’s value, when a MIRV feels they wish to move to FIRV they can do this in one to three years depending upon their preference and circumstances. Fellowship will be achieved by amassing 40 points over one/two years, or 45 points over three years, from a selection of different activities. Each will carry set points dependent upon the value of the activity and the time it takes to do. The current menu of qualifying activities

20 The Jeweller April 2013

takes into account the nature of existing retail members’ work and the importance of such things as the Loughborough Conference. Details of the CPD options are available upon request from me (the IRV Co-ordinator) on tel: 029 2081 3615 or email: The list of options is amended as the market and circumstances change.

earlier than normal! Please can you make sure you leave this weekend free so that you can join in what is one of the trade’s major networking events. Plans for this year’s programme are already under way and the Institute promises delegates yet another selection of top class experts covering topics dear to a valuer’s heart. We already have Geoffrey Munn from the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow lined up for a main presentation and an array of popular workshops in the pipeline. As usual full details will automatically be sent to all IRVs and non-IRV delegates from the 2011 and 2012 Conferences. If you’ve not been for a while or have never attended and would like to receive details please register your interest by contacting me on tel: 029 2081 3615 or email:

And while you’re there... On the Friday before the Loughborough Conference we’ve arranged a tour of the famous Blue John Cavern in Derbyshire.

Certificate of Appraisal Theory – the first successful examinees You will have read Miles Hoare’s interview with Alan Wetherall, one of the Institute’s CAT pilot exercise students, in the January/ February issue of this magazine. Alan was one of four people who took part in the exercise and we are delighted to announce that he, along with his fellow pilots, all passed the CAT exam. Here are their details: • Joanna Hardy, London • Barbara Leal, JEMS, Pinner • Benjamin Randell, Fellows, Birmingham • Alan Wetherall, Cellini, Cambridge They will be presented with their CAT certificates at an awards ceremony held during this year’s Loughborough Conference. Alan, who meets the pre-requisites for IRV membership has already applied to become a Member of the Institute. We hope his fellow pilots will also apply soon.

Earlier date for NAG’s IRV Loughborough Conference 2013 This year’s Loughborough Conference takes place over the weekend of Saturday 14th to Monday 16th September inclusive – a week

A number of delegates like to travel up on the Friday rather than risk sitting in a traffic jam on the M1 on the Saturday morning so we felt we should offer something new and exciting for these individuals. Full details of the tour will be available when the Conference details are published but if you are one of our regulars and want to put your name down for one of the places (we can only take 30 people) let me know as soon as possible!

Meanwhile, elsewhere, there is a pre-show buzz building as exhibitors large and small prepare for the event. This year, for the first time, Ti Sento finds itself in the prestigious Hall 1 with the big boys (the likes of Gucci and Hermes) and that development has obviously added to the sense of optimism. The upscaling of BaselWorld has also allowed for even greater flights of fantasy as far as stands are concerned. In fact ‘stand’ is a wholly inadequate word for them – many being two or three-storey edifices. In the case of Montres Hermes, the Japanese architect

Guess Jewellery

Basel prepares for Big Business With a sparkling new multi-million pound hall complex to marvel at, over 1,800 exhibitors to consider and the latest trends to discover, excitement is mounting for BaselWorld, reports Belinda Morris. f BaselWorld was considered to be huge in scale (think small city with village-sized stands within) then the new-look Basel later this month promises to be particularly impressive… or daunting, depending on how you view these things. With an overall investment of CHF340 million (£237 million), the new Hall 1 provides an extra 74,000 square metres of exhibition space to the total of 141,000 square metres of show ground. Comfy shoes might be in order. Of course the new developments – which promise to be exciting from an aesthetic as well as a functional standpoint – will create a few changes. Regular visitors to the show may well find that their suppliers are not in their old familiar slots – a little more foot slog might be necessary. At a glance though: Hall 1 – watch and jewellery brands ‘of global significance’, Hall 2 – watch and jewellery brands that are ‘internationally active’, Hall 3 – stones and pearls; Hall 4 – machine and supply industry and national pavilions. Returning to Basel following a few years hiatus, Gem-A will be in the redesigned Hall of Elements (Hall 3) where loose gemstone


22 The Jeweller April 2013

merchants and diamond dealers will be showcasing their offer. “The impact of this on [these exhibitors] will be interesting,” says CEO James Riley. “It now lies on the route in for people bussing in from the airport and car parks but is well away from the central meeting areas and tram stop. There is a significant danger that this group may have been marginalised but only time will tell.”


has been employed to build a new pavilion which will “translate in an impressive way all the values of the House of Hermes”. We don’t doubt it. And to mark the first time that Swarovski has shown its jewellery collections at Basel, it has collaborated with the Japanese designer Tokujin Yoshioka to create a ‘Wings of Sparkle’ concept for its stand. Expect to


BaselWorld Preview | be dazzled by 250,000 reflectors with a mirrored surface and 23,000 LED lights in the 2,000 square metre space. Added to this, there is a growing sense that while BaselWorld is globally renowned as the place for watches, the show has much, much else to offer. “Many of our UK customers are beginning to realise the importance of a visit to Basel,” says Justin Simons of Euro Pearls. “In the past many would only come if they had watch businesses, but in terms of the jewellery side, there are so many new brands to discover as well as the new trends developing.”

Trends – Watches • Classic and modern styling combined • Military inspiration (including ‘dash’ details) • Extreme/futuristic/super-hero looks • New technology features • Oversized buttons and levers • Alternative methods of viewing time • Multi-functions • Off-set hour and minute displays • Retro looks and heritage revisited • Simple and elegant styling • Matte and polished materials together • Crystal decoration • Yellow and rose gold • High-tech ceramics • Chronographs for women • Slimmer profiles • Openwork dials – occasionally stylistically graphic

Trends – Jewellery

Marco Bicego

This sense of optimistic expectation is certainly helping to dissipate thoughts of financial doom and gloom. “The watch industry is very resilient and its tradition is a powerful and positive influence on its stability,” says Kirsten Crisford of Seiko. “We feel that watch lovers will remain watch lovers, even in tough times, and that demand will continue to be stable and even grow in the medium to high end of the market.” Jennifer Keely, senior product manager at Casio agrees: “We’ve seen the watch market increase, despite the economic situation and don’t expect 2013 to be any different,” she says. With a number of new launches, innovations and developments, Casio uses the show largely as a marketing exercise. Lee Ruben of Gemex is in equally buoyant mood regarding his own sector. “Market conditions are tough… but we’re not personally seeing any resistance to fine bridal jewellery. I’ve said it all along – bridal jewellery is recession-proof.” While the UK is a particularly strong market for the company – almost to the point of saturation

• • • • • • • • • • •

Filigree work Stone-set wedding bands for men Yellow and rose gold Pavé settings Lockets Key pendants ‘Coin’ pendants Carbon fibre rings Colour – enamel and gemstones Vintage looks (particularly 1920s) Strong variety for engagement rings

– at BaselWorld last year it did business with retailers from the USA, Canada, Mexico, Europe (including Scandinavia), Russia, South Africa and Australia. It goes without saying that the focus of many an exhibitor’s attention will be on the booming markets of China, India, Brazil and Russia. “Despite the economic situation we are still expecting excellent business at the fair,” adds Simons. “Retailers and suppliers converge at BaselWorld from all over the world. Suppliers are exposed to more retailers than at any other show and the retailer has more choice – which is why there will still be big business in Basel.” British designer Stephen Webster, who has shown at the event for the past 12 years echoes the view: “It’s the only show where we can connect with a truly international customer – from Siberia to South America, from China to Edinburgh. The world shops at Basel.” 

The BaselWorld Look Book G Shock

A round-up of some of the new watch and jewellery launches at BaselWorld

The Casio team in Japan worked with pilots to develop the most useful features on a watch for a pilot and the result is the G Shock Premium GA-1000FC and the GA – 10001A, the ‘ultimate’ flight compass watches. The key feature is the bearing memory compass. The wearer is able to set their target direction and if the watch goes off track, the LCD notifies the user – ideal for survival situations! The FC model has a resin strap combined with metal for added strength.

Furrer Jacot

New for 2013 is a collection of rings featuring engraving on the outside as well as a line of multi-colour rings that the company has developed incorporating carbon fibre. The high tech material is used in combination with precious metals for a very contemporary look.

The Voice of the Industry 23

BaselWorld Preview | Ti Sento

The new Portofino Collection (inspired by the Dolce Vita) reflects the colours of the bay and the bright, summery houses and the colourful lifestyle of this resort-inspired collection. Rose and yellow gold plated details have been added to many of its silver pieces with a wide selection of mix and match possibilities.


Just launched into the UK Brazilian fine jewellery brand Brumani focuses on vibrant colour and movement for a feminine look that mixes elegant, classic and contemporary. Sinuous and sensual forms reflect the movement and music of Carnival as well as the optimism that permeates this cultural hot spot.


New additions have been made to Breuning’s lines of pure love (wedding and engagement rings), pure elegance (highend gold collections) and pure fashion – trend inspired jewellery in sterling silver. In particular bi-coloured precious metals are a strong feature of the pure love line.

Victor Mayer


A clean design with sporty details sums up the new Mini Chic line by Gc. The highlight of the collection is the rose gold (PVD) case version with white ceramic bezel – looking particularly feminine in combination with a white croco-embossed leather strap. The rose gold hands and Roman numerals add a touch of glamour to this 28mm watch.

Euro Pearls

Intensity of colour is the very obvious statement that Victor Mayer is making with its new ring collection, with the emphasis on a bold playfulness as well as a harmony between the gemstones and fire enamel – the brand’s speciality. Each piece of Victor Mayer jewellery is produced in a strictly limited and numbered edition which is recorded in the archives of the company.

The highlight of Euro Pearl’s 2013 offering is certain to be the new Yoko Exclusive collection of one-of-a-kind pieces. In addition will be the Yoko Essentials line of easy-to-wear jewellery incorporating cultured South Sea pearls with diamond-set 18ct gold.

The Voice of the Industry 25

| BaselWorld Preview Mondaine


A new space-age looking stand and the launch of its Stop2Go model will be the focus of attention at Mondaine this year. The watch honours the unique characteristic of the Swiss Railways Clock which stops for two seconds every minute. The clocks are featured at all Swiss railways and stop at 58 seconds to synchronise before jumping forwards.

The Britain watch has been created using the same design principles and craftsmanship as applied to the brand’s iconic trench coat. Marrying heritage with function, modernity and innovation the look is ‘as elegant as it is relaxed’. Attention to detail includes: distinctive bolts, D-rings, trenchcoloured dials and alligator straps in the Burberry palette.


A newly-designed and much more prominent stand in Hall 2 will be where visitors will be given a preview of Domino’s Diamond Ring Mount collection, due to be launched later this year. Available in platinum and gold the line offers a huge choice of solitaire, three stone, five stone and seven stone and eternity rings in both classical and contemporary patterns. These are available in different diamond sizes – the same look across a range of price points.

Swarovski (Jewellery)

Creative director Natalie Colin was inspired by recent travels in Brazil for the new Tropical Paradise collection. Vibrant colour, new materials and signature Swarovski techniques such as faceting and pavé settings are evident throughout the line which also features generously sized settings. And as well as more eclectic designs, the diversity of South America can be seen in forms such as birds of paradise, exotic insects and palm trees.

26 The Jeweller April 2013

Roberto Coin

New statement rings in the Cocktail Collection are among the new lines being launched and shown here are styles in red gold, red satin gold and yellow satin gold, set with milky quartz and turquoise; brown diamonds, lemon quartz, agate and mother of pearl and brown diamonds, smoky quartz, agate and mother of pearl.


An exhibitor at Basel for the past 10 years, Adriatica offers a more affordable Swiss timepiece – the range retails between £70 and £400. New for this year is a ladies’ ceramic collection and gents Twin Motion model, the latter being a multi-function watch with perpetual calendar, two time zone and chronograph function.

BaselWorld Preview | Maurice Lacroix


Four new automatic chronographs have been added to the Rado D-Star collection – in black or platinum-coloured plasmatreated high-tech ceramic, these timepieces are nothing if not masculine. Each watch incorporates a specially developed movement and has an extended 60 hour power reserve and all (regardless of different details) are scratch resistant, have hypoallergenic properties and are designed for wearer comfort.

From the new five-strong Masterpiece Tradition line comes this Date GMT model which combines a simple, timeless design with a high quality mechanical movement. The hour markers and hands vary from one version to another, ranging from metallic blue to rhodium-plated finishes or pink gold. The watch also features a sapphire crystal back.

Stephen Webster

For 2013 the British luxury jewellery brand looks to the archive for inspiration as Stephen Webster revisits some of his most iconic collections. The magical ‘Fly by Night’, twenties-inspired ‘Deco Haze’ and the decadent ‘Belle Epoque’ have been beautifully reinvented; set with sparkling white and black diamonds, emeralds, sapphires and rubies.

Grovana and Revue Thommen

Recently launched into the UK market (through Since 1853 Ltd which already distributes the sibling brand Revue Thommen) Grovana of Switzerland offers a value for money, Swiss-made timepiece collection. With over 680 watches in the collection – from sporty to quietly elegant – there’s something for every taste.

Folli Follie

Mezzaluna is one of the three key lines that will be launched by Italian jewellery brand Al Coro at Basel. In white gold set with 332 brilliant-cut diamonds this ring is complemented by earrings and a pendant. Meanwhile the Cielo range combines rose gold with summer-coloured gemstones and Dolce Vita features pavé set diamonds and brown diamonds on rose gold.

Al Coro

Taking inspiration from the brand’s jewellery heritage, Folli Follie has looked for creative ways in which to translate jewellery motifs into its watch line. The combination of white ceramic with rose gold is testament to this in the case of this new model in the Heart4Heart collection – particularly given the crystal stone adornment highlighted by the clear case.

The Voice of the Industry 27

| BaselWorld Preview 

Montres Hermes

The Singular model – the single-hand watch with a stop function – is now available in anthracite. The sportiness of the model is emphasised by the red hand and indices highlight, as well as the stitching on the crocoprint anthracite leather strap.

Alfred Terry

Following a season of expansion, restructure and the opening of a new London HQ, Alfred Terry will makes its first appearance at BaselWorld this year. The company will be presenting a number of brands under the umbrella of its luxury division, Leading Italian Jewels, as well as its own 1909 origins collection, Portamento stacking rings, Canadia rings using Canadian diamonds and Revv, its first line of men’s jewellery.

Ice Watch

The new Super-Slim Ice is the latest launch from the Ice-Watch brand. Made from one single piece from the strap to the case, it’s soft, slim and like a second skin. Its single colour hands set the tone against the dial: black against a white background; white on black; pink against grey; orange on blue, pink on sky blue, white on red, yellow on  pink or blue on violet. 

Following its success with bridal suites at Inhorgenta recently, which saw “a renewed interest in engagement rings in that market”, Stubbs & Co will be showing suites that match handmade solitaire mounts with wedding bands and eternity rings that are precision-engineered for a seamless flush fit – a complete bridal solution.

28 The Jeweller April 2013

Among the new collections being launched are several new Seiko Premier watches featuring the unique Kinetic Calibre. The 5M84 model brings new functionality to Seiko’s Kinetic technology. It has a power reserve of six months, so with normal usage will work continuously. However, if unworn for six months the watch will re-start once it is moved backwards and forwards two or three times.

Stubbs & Co

‘Arceau Petite Lune’ is Hermes’ first female ‘small complication’ watch, while the ‘Cape Cod’ is another very useful small complication, this time aimed at the traveller. The brand has also strengthened the Dressage line – in line with its saddle making heritage, there are new straps for the ‘Arceau Chrono Bridon’ collection. More importantly, the brand is also introducing a new unconventional complication.



Visit us at the Baselworld fair April 25 to May 2, 2013 Stand No. J27 / Hall 2.0

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The Voice of the Industry 29

| Insurance Matters

Got it all covered? Yes, of course you have! Premises, stock, transport, customers, flood, fire, theft – everything that is important to the continuing success of your business… ut what about your key people? What about the individuals, more than likely including yourself, who help to make your business successful? Consider just for one moment how you would meet your customers’ needs without the particular knowledge and specialist skills of the people who make your business tick. It has been said time and again that people are the most important assets to any business. And it is true – without people nothing would work, so shouldn’t protecting them be one of your highest priorities? Certain individuals in your organisation right now are probably vital to its day to day operation, not to mention its future. So it is essential that you identify them and where they sit within the organisation. It is also vitally important to establish exactly what they contribute in terms of knowledge and skill in order to protect your business against their temporary absence in the event of illness or worse still, permanent loss in the event of death. • If one of your most important sales executives became critically ill or died what would be the impact on profits? • If your goldsmith or another craft specialist was unable to work for a long period of time how would you manage? • What if the person who has guaranteed your business loans were to die? What would be the view of the lending banks? • What if a key employee was to become seriously ill for a long period? Could you


30 The Jeweller April 2013

afford to pay his/her salary and that of a temporary replacement? Until a Key Person’s role is filled you could lose both money and opportunities with customers or suppliers – in the worst case you may even have to close. The answer is to have a Key Person policy in place. TH March’s Chartered Financial Planner, Steven Clemence explains this below. The policy is owned and paid for by the business and in the event of a claim the benefit is payable to the business to use as it sees fit to mitigate the impact of any loss. Whatever happens, the business will have a lump sum readily available, or an income stream to help cover ongoing salary obligations. What this means is that you will have the time and money to recruit and integrate a replacement, you will be able to repay those outstanding bank loans or acquire the finance you wanted for expansion. It could mean the difference between success and failure for your business. Wouldn’t it be nice to have that peace of mind? It needn’t be expensive either with minimum premiums starting at around £7.00 per month. With statistics showing an increasing cost to industry as a result of illness and absence, isn’t it about time you included your key employees among your insurance priorities? There are three types of risk and each can be protected with life assurance or with insurance against illness. However, life cover is usually the priority and is often cheaper:

Business loan cover Business loans are often secured on the homes of the directors or partners, but depend on the confidence of the lender in one or more persons at the helm. All too often the death of the borrower results in the lender calling in its loan, at the very time when the business is most vulnerable and unable to release the capital. Banks often recommend or require life assurance when the loan is offered but, depending on the status of the bank’s advisers, it may be sensible to seek independent advice to check that one is getting competitive terms and that the cover is arranged in the most effective manner. Loss of future profit This may be a lump sum to compensate for the loss of the key person, but is best regarded as a combination of the loss of profit and additional recruitment and training expenses until a new person can effectively take over the deceased role. Director/partner’s share or partnership protection What will happen in your business if a director or partner dies? To whom will his/her share pass, and will the recipient be someone who has the skills the surviving directors or partners need, and someone they can work with? Often spouses and children want financial security, not responsibility for a business they don’t understand. Life assurance can solve both these problems. It can put money in the hands of the surviving directors or partners to buy the business share back from the deceased’s estate, and provide the estate with that financial security. In a small business which faces all of these needs, a single insurance can often provide cost effective protection. Take the case of a 30 year old non-smoking male working in the retail jewellery trade: Typical premiums for a 10 year policy with a £100,000 life assurance benefit can be as little as £7 per month. Premiums would increase to £9.00 per month for a 40 year old, or £18.00 for a 50 year old. To talk over the best options for you call Steven on: 01822 855 555, email him at: or visit their website at:

April 2013 / Volume 22 / No. 2

Gems of BaselWorld Highlights of the Tucson Show Crystal Questions




A wide range of precious and semi-precious stones, beads and freshwater pearls, personally selected from around the world. U n u s u a l s t o n e s a s p e c i a l i t y.

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Gems&Jewellery / April 2013



April 13 Contents

4 Gem-A News and Views

6 Gemstone News

10 Gems and Minerals


Recently I had the good fortune to examine several large diamonds in private hands, including two ‘historic’ stones which can be traced back several centuries to Indian mines. Both the latter had been recut in recent times, a feature that started me pondering. When the famous blue Wittlesbach diamond was purchased by Laurence Graff in 2008 and then recut slightly to improve its colour and clarity, there were some that saw this act as akin to repainting a Rembrandt. I have sympathy here, and mourn the fact that many countries lack legislation to prevent the destruction or modification of portable items deemed to be of historic or artistic importance. There is nothing to stop me burning my Rembrandt. However, there was another aspect about recutting historic diamonds that intrigued me. What factors determine how we recut them, and are those factors really valid? I can best explain this by citing a far earlier observer, an unknown correspondent in The London Review a century and a half ago describing his impressions on seeing the Koh-i-Nur exhibited at the 1862 Great Exhibition. The Koh-i-Nur had been recut from its ancient Indian form 10 years earlier. He refers to the practice of ruining diamonds by cutting and notes that the Koh-i-Nur was “no more the luminous mound which delighted the eyes of the Moguls”. More precisely he stated that it “shows a huge face of diamond, but in order to attain this vulgar attribute of size or ‘spread’, it has been cut so thin, that it is not a brilliant in the true sense of the word: it is a thin slab of diamond with facettes [sic] cut on it in imitation of those of a brilliant”. In his opinion the brilliant style of cutting was not even suited for diamonds over about 50 carats in weight. Large facets reduced play of colour, he said, and made a stone look glassy; over 100 carats the brilliant style was really not effective at all. This is an anonymous opinion, and an old one at that, but it should make us think. Large diamonds today are cut or recut, usually in a version of the brilliant style of cutting, so as to optimize colour and clarity. That’s what the market demands. But is that the whole answer? Sparkle or scintillation might not be quantified on a lab grading report, but are they important to the diamond buyer? Might not a more multi-faceted look bring out a different and potentially more appealing look to a large diamond? I don’t know how much work has been done on ray tracing in large diamonds of varied cuts and shapes, but I do wonder if future generations might look back at how we cut large diamonds now and judge us to be wanting in so diligently serving the gods of clarity and colour. The brilliant cut is a fashion, not a universal truth. Jack Ogden

Cover Picture Royal Butterfly Brooch by Cindy Chao and donated by her to the Smithsonian Institution, Washington (see page 8). Photo by Cindy Chao

Shows and Exhibitions Calendar

Brilliant fashion


From the Archives


Book Shelf


Stone Scoop


Published by The Gemmological Association of Great Britain (Gem-A) 27 Greville Street, London EC1N 8TN t: +44 (0)20 7404 3334 f: +44 (0)20 7404 8843 e: w: Registered charity no. 1109555 Copyright 2013 ISSN 1746-8043

Editor Jack Ogden Advisory Board Mary Burland, Roger Harding, Harry Levy and James Riley Design and Production Zest Design +44 (0)20 7864 1504 Any opinions expressed in Gems&Jewellery are understood to be the views of the contributors and not necessarily of the publishers

Advertising For mediapack and advertising rates please contact Ian Francis at the National Association of Goldsmiths on tel: +44 (0)20 7613 4445 or email him at:

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Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Gem-A News and Views

Gem-A news Gem-A CEO James Riley


Design Awards It’s always a pleasure to attend award ceremonies but doubly so when the people winning the awards are young or genuinely among the best in their particular field. The Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council Awards 2013 fell into both categories. Gem-A, a sponsor of the event for many years, judges and presents the Gem-A Diamond Scholarship Awards — an annual scholarship for Gem-A’s one-week Diamond Practical Course. The scholarship is given to young designers who show flair and originality in the use of gemstones and diamonds in their design. What makes these designers special is that they are embarking on their careers. What they might lack in commercialism is balanced by an uninhibited approach to design, allowing their true creative side to be given full reign. For many it is their first visit to Goldsmiths’ Hall and they have

gives a round-up of what’s been happening at Gem-A. the opportunity to mix with the real stars of our trade. By stars I mean leading craftsmen, not stars from the pages of Hello and OK! I was privileged to judge our award and we ended up presenting two scholarships. The Gem-A Diamond Scholarship Award winners were Katie Jamieson and Stasia Tereszczuk, chosen from a very good selection of designs. It was not an easy choice, but both winners demonstrated something out of the ordinary which caught our eyes. Their designs showed originality and interesting use of gemstones. Stasia Tereszczuk had designed a unique piece exploiting the optical properties of andalusite, while Katie Jamieson had submitted a collection of 3D jewellery. Shown here are her matching ring and earrings in faceted stones and hand-blown frosted glass. Each year all the award-winning entries are exhibited along with a selection of

Gem-A Shop Don’t miss this month’s SPECIAL OFFERS on instruments and books from the Gem-A Shop.


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Stasia Tereszczuk’s design: an andalusite and sapphire pendant. Copyright The Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council, photo by Lee Robinson.

Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Gem-A News and Views

entrants’ work at what is normally a fourday exhibition at Goldsmiths’ Hall, London. The exhibition is open to the public, free of charge. There are categories for Junior — if you are serving a full-time apprenticeship, or on a recognized course of full- or parttime study and below the age of 30 on the final closing date for entries — and Senior if you are over the age of 30 on the final closing date for submission of entries. There is no upper age limit. More than one design can be submitted and there are various classifications for submissions. Thinking of entering for the 2014 Awards? We’ll see you there! For more details visit:

Back to Basel BaselWorld 2013 is the showplace for 1,800 watch, jewellery and precious-stone companies from around the world. It is Europe’s greatest watch and jewellery trade show and attracts some 100,000 international visitors. This year between 25 April and 2 May BaselWorld will show off its new hall complex and, of particular interest for Gems&Jewellery readers, present the world's top diamond, coloured gem and pearl dealers in the redesigned Hall of Elements for the first time. We’ll be there too. This is the perfect time for Gem-A to exhibit again in Basel after a

Work on the new exhibitions halls, Basel. Copyright BaselWorld.

break of 20 years. It is not easy to get booth space at BaselWorld, let alone a good location, but as the leading jewellery show in Europe and surpassed by only

Hong Kong and Las Vegas, it is somewhere that everyone goes to or aspires to go to. As the international enrolment on our courses grows, it is important to meet past, present and future students, show off what we do, keep tabs on the industry to spot trends and get feedback so our education can be improved. The Gem-A booth is N12 in Hall 3.1 so if you are a Gem-A Member — or a past, present or future student — come and say hello. I look forward to meeting you.

James Riley Katie Jamieson’s ring and earrings in faceted stones and hand-blown frosted glass. Copyright The Goldsmiths’ Craft and Design Council, photo by Lee Robinson.

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Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Gemstone News

Gemstone news Jack Ogden


looks at developments in the UK and international gem markets.

Gem market round-up Gemfields’ CEO, Ian Harebottle, recently told the Wall Street Journal’s Market Watch (8 February 2013) about his ambitions for the company’s future. He noted that worldwide polished coloured gemstones were only an estimated $2 billion market in 2012, compared with a $71 billion for polished diamonds. With better marketing of coloured gemstones Harebottle reckons that the market for them could grow to $10 billion in 10 years. Gemfields, with emerald mines at Kagem, Zambia, currently accounts for around 20% of the world's emerald production. Research and Markets ( has recently published its Global Gems and Jewellery Market Forecast and Opportunities, 2018. The key findings are that currently the US is the largest jewellery market in the world and more than 50% of that is dominated by diamonds. Taken globally, the jewellery market is improving and a compound annual growth rate in excess of 5% is expected over the next five years, surpassing US$ 257 billion in 2017. This growth will be primarily driven by the Asia Pacific and the Middle Eastern markets. This ties in with the recent announcement from the Thai News Agency that Thai exports of gems and jewellery are likely to grow by 5% in 2013. With regard to the recent jewellery show in Shenzhen, there are reports that the high-end jewellery market in China seems to be recovering after a slowdown in 2012, and that the Chinese market is increasingly open to new gemstones. The US has its own moment of glory. A long and thoughtful article in the New York Times on the Tucson Shows (20 February 2013), and one for once not written from a trade perspective, quoted a Rhode Island jeweller at the show as saying: “Probably 70% of the world’s coloured gemstones on the market pass through Tucson during the month of February.” It is not clear where that figure comes from but, if it is anywhere close to the truth, it is staggering statistic. It is not smiles all round, though. Gem and jewellery exports from India fell slightly in January this year compared to last year, with less than vibrant demand in the US and Europe being blamed (Provide. 22 February 2013). It is worse next door. According to a report in The Express Tribune (9 February 2013), in Pakistan “The gemstones industry has been on a constant decline due to a spate of violent terrorist activities in the heartland of the industry. However, stakeholders also blame ‘pitiable performance’ on the part of the Pakistan Gems and Jewellery Development Company (PGJDC), which they say has ‘destroyed’ the sector.” In turn a former director on the PGJDC board accused the government “of interfering in the functioning of the company and replacing board members with political appointees”.

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Distinguishing sapphires from Kashmir and Madagascar In the latest Facette, the newsletter (January 2013) of the Swiss Gemmological Institute, SSEF, director Dr Michael S. Krzemnicki discusses the origin determination of sapphire and, in particular, the challenge of distinguishing Kashmir sapphires with some of those from Madagascar which can have very similar characteristics. Focusing on traditional gemmological techniques, he states that “Luckily, a comparison of internal characteristics between sapphires from Kashmir and similar looking sapphires from Madagascar often reveals subtle but nevertheless valuable differences.” He goes on to say that in sapphires from Madagascar the exsolution particles — ‘dust’ patches and tracks — are more distinct and better defined than in Kashmir sapphires. Also the Madagascan stones usually show much denser colour, and growth zoning which frequently dominates the stone along one direction. The full report can be found here: Documents/ PDF/640_Facette/SSEF-FACETTE-20.pdf

Particles and dust lines in a Kashmir sapphire (top) compared with the ‘millipede’-like structures in a Madagascan stone (bottom). Photos courtesy of SSEF.

Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Gemstone News

Lab group formed At the end of 2012 independent gem labs from around the world met in Bangkok to inaugurate the International Consortium of Gem Testing Laboratories (ICGL), an organization formed to promote excellence in the field of gemmology. They foresee greater communication and cooperation between independent labs with joint research projects as one aim. The ICGL was conceived by Dr Jayshree Panjikar (PANGEMTECH) and Henry Ho (AIGS) and its first newsletter was released at the 2013 Tucson Show.

Whiter than white For some time there has been concern that there has been a tendency by some auction houses in particular to apply the term ‘Golconda’ too widely to Type IIa diamonds. The name ‘Golconda’, referring to the old Indian diamond trading centre of that name, is seen to command a price premium, but not all type IIa diamonds are from Golconda. In its recent newsletter the Gübelin Gem Lab has confirmed that its present policy is to apply the term ‘Golconda’ to type IIa colourless diamonds only if they weigh more than 5 ct and have D colour and IF or potentially IF clarity. The stones should also display “an antique cutting style” and show the signs of wear and age “expected of a diamond that has been around for a long time”. This does not preclude stones identified by the Gübelin Gem Lab as Golconda from being slightly repolished at a later date as long as their appearance has not been modified significantly. Even so, the industry does need to decide what it means by ‘Golconda’ as, so far anyway, definitive origin determination for diamonds is beyond our reach. Full text of the Gübelin statement at:

Living in syn There has been much media coverage of Amsterdam’s Royal Asscher diamond company’s introduction of its ‘Rebel Chique’ range of synthetic diamond-set jewellery. The range of rings, pendants and earrings is available in several colours, including colourless (although the photos on the website do look as if the different colours have been created in Photoshop). Mike Asscher says: “Rebel Chique opens a new world for a next generation of diamond lovers, tapping into an entirely new mentality and experience.” As a guide, according to the website, a platinum-set ring with a colourless 0.52 ct brilliant-cut diamond, described as of VS1 clarity, and pave-set synthetic diamond shoulders sells for €6095 (about £5250, $8000). Meanwhile in India the Gems and Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) with the Indian Diamond Institute (IDI) and the Gemological Institute of India (GII), held a seminar on 16 March aimed at making diamond manufacturers and dealers more aware of the threat posed to their industry by synthetic diamonds.

Purple colour flashes and bubbles in a lead-glass-filled ruby. Copyright Gem-A, photo by Jack Ogden.

Rubies and rants In a recent interview for the Daily Ticker for Yahoo Finance (8 February 2013) for an article titled ‘Secrets of the Jewelry Industry: What Your Jeweler Won’t Tell You’, jewellery expert and author Antoinette Matlins FGA spoke about treatments, rubies especially, and urged customers to ask three questions when buying a ruby: “Is this ruby treated?”, “How was it treated?” and “Is there lead glass in the ruby?” Among the numerous reader comments that followed, mostly unfavourable to the jewellery industry to say the least, one person simply said: “If you are not a gemologist how do you know you are getting the real stuff?” Another commented: “Never buy a set stone. Always loose, then have it set. Have the stone appraised before you buy. Bring a gemologist with you and pay them. Worth it.” The comments — often rants — that now trail after most web news stories can make irritating reading, but they do give us all very useful insights as to how some consumers think. Companies anxious to raise their brand image are often advised to ask themselves what would be the worst thing their customers could say about them. Reading comments following gem or jewellery-related web article can provide us with lots of clues.

Tanzanite 0.5 The 2010 Tanzania Mining Act required that gemstone mining in the country should be carried out primarily by Tanzanians, but existing foreign companies working in the country would be able to have their mining licences renewed in return for their listing on the Dar es Salaam Stock Exchange and floating 50% of their shares to Tanzanians. This legislation obviously affects tanzanite miner Tanzanite One, but the current situation is unclear. According to the Government, talks are concluded and 50% shareholding will go to the Government. At the time of writing, however, Tanzanite One insists that although

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Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Gemstone News

Gemstone News (cont.)

agreement has been reached in principle, talks are still in progress and that nothing has been finalized. (African Review 4 March 2013). The 2010 Mining Act also imposed an immediate ban on the export of uncut tanzanite, the purpose being to create more employment for cutters and increase the added value of tanzanite to the country. The effect that the new mining regulations will have on tanzanite and its availability and pricing is unclear. The Tanzanite Foundation’s website now states that there is probably 30 years supply remaining at the mine, an upped estimate from a few years ago.

Opals Miners in the Australian opal mining town of Lightning Ridge in New South Wales, Australia, are complaining that a variety of factors, in part due to regulatory changes, have increased the costs of mining to the point where they might decide to stop mining (according to the Australian Broadcasting Corporation). Meanwhile some 8,000 miles away, at a meeting at the end of February, the Ethiopian Ministry of Mines announced that in the previous six months Ethiopia had earned US $288 million from the export of gemstones, which included opals “and other gemstones”. This follows on from an announcement earlier this year that Ethiopia will soon ban the export of rough opal. ( 26 February 2013).

Cindy Chao’s Royal Butterfly Brooch under longwave ultraviolet light. Courtesy of the Smithsonian Institution.

public alike, with its often disturbingly graphic media coverage — it is estimated that daily some 50 to 100 African elephants are slaughtered to meet demand. The demand comes mainly from Asia. Thailand is well known for its own elephant population and ivory from domesticated Thai elephants can be legally sold there. The problem is that, as campaigners point out, this legal trade can be used to launder illegal African ivory. So there was delight when at the recent Convention on the International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) held in Bangkok, the Thai Prime Minister announced that she intends to amend national legislation to end the ivory trade and bring Thailand “in line with international norms”. No timeframe was given. (Source: BBC News 3 March 2013)

Butterfly A beautiful butterfly has landed in a showcase at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History in Washington (see cover and under UV light above). The ‘Royal Butterfly Brooch’, set with 2,328 gems is the work of Taiwanese jewellery artist Cindy Chao who donated the piece to the museum. The gems, totalling 77 ct, include coloured and colour-changing sapphires, diamonds, rubies and tsavorite garnets. Four large faceted diamond slices form the main parts of the wings. Opal miners leaving town? The famous flying bus outside the Lightning Ridge Hotel. Photo Jack Ogden.

Long in the tooth Ivory has long been considered an organic gem material and in the past duly covered in gemmology books and courses. However, there has been an increasingly negative attitude to ivory jewellery in recent decades as conservation issues came to the fore. The scourge of ivory poaching is well known to the jewellery trade and

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Market slide US marketing company Harmon, who issue an email newsletter covering fashion trends for the jewellery business, recently said: “Slithering through the tents of fashion week, we are seeing a trend that is sure to leave you feeling a little cold-blooded. Skins of all types, and snakes in particular, will be a major trend for spring 2013.” They suggest this is an opportunity to sell jewellery “with a naturalistic edge to it”. Will we see a renaissance in the use of serpentine?

Gems&Jewellery / April 2013


Gem-A Calendar Workshop: Investigating gemstone treatments Gem-A headquarters, London Friday 19 April, 10:00 to 16:30 Gem-A / NAG / BJA members and Gem-A students: £80, Non-members: £100 Gem Central Gem-A headquarters, London Monday 22 April, 18:15 to 20:00 Focusing on magnification: use of loupe 10x, 20x and microscope Students and members: Free Non-members: £5 Gem-A Career Service Gem-A headquarters, London Monday 13 May, 18:15 to 20:00 Carry on teaching with Claire Mitchell FGA DGA Gem-A students and Gem-A members: Free, Non-members, non-students: £10 For further details of Gem-A events or to book go to or email

Gem-A Midlands Branch Fluorescence Birmingham University, Earth Sciences Department Friday 26 April, 19:00 to 20:30 Refreshments from 18:30 For further information please contact Georgina Kettle on tel: 07990 893768 or email:

Gem-A South East Branch A visit to De Beers Group headquarters Friday 17 May, 9:30 to 11:30 17 Charterhouse Street, London EC1N 6PA This is your last chance to visit De Beers’ headquarters in London before their move to Botswana later in the year. De Beers, established in 1888, has been the world’s leading diamond company for more than a century; the De Beers’ name is synonymous with diamonds, with unrivalled expertise in the exploration, mining and marketing of diamonds. To register send an email to:

Show Dates Gem-A will be exhibiting at the following shows:

BaselWorld 25 April – 2 May 2013 Stand No. N12 / Hall 3.1

JCK Las Vegas 31 May – 3 June 2013 Booth L116

International Jewellery London 1 – 4 September 2013 Stand J94

Hong Kong Jewellery and Gem Fair 13 – 17 September 2013 CEC Booth 3M046

The Munich Show 25 – 27 October 2013

Gemmological Conferences The Scottish Gemmological Association

The 5th European Gemmological Symposium

SGA Conference 2013 Peebles Hydro Hotel, Peebles, near Edinburgh, Scotland 3 to 6 May 2013 Confirmed speakers and workshop leaders include Chris Smith, Clare Blatherwick, David Callaghan, Rhiannon Henderson, Alan Hodgkinson, Cigdem Lule, Claudio Milisenda, Jack Ogden, Ron Ringsrud and Stuart Robertson.

Leiden, The Netherlands 15 to 16 June 2013 The Netherlands Gemmological Laboratory and the Dutch Gemmological Guild cordially invite gemmologists, jewellers and anyone else interested in gemmology, to the 5th European Gemmological Symposium that coincides with the 14th Dutch Gemmological Guild symposium.

To book contact Pauline Jamieson, SGA Conference Organizer at:

To book go to:

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Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Gems and Minerals

Gem ‘talk’ from Gary Roskin Gary Roskin FGA presents a selection of recent gem news and comments from The Roskin Gem News Report. Here he looks at the latest talk on GemTalk, rock crystal jewels and the upcoming BaselWorld Show. Still talk on the ‘Talk’ Before you turn the page thinking that this yet another feature about “what to call it”, I will tell you that this is not about what to call it. This is about how to prove to your supplier or to your client that this is ‘it’. The ‘it’ of course has to do with that ‘stuff’ everyone on GemTalk has been talking about — what to call this reddish/purplish highly fractured, non-gem-quality corundum that is subsequently filled full of high lead content glass to allow it to be used as a gem material. In other words… what some of us have been calling ‘glass-filled ruby’ (1). We’re not going to revisit that, as this was a topic of discussion in Gems&Jewellery Spring 2011, Volume 20, No.1. But it’s not surprising that we are still debating over what to call this material. It is still very prevalent in the jewellery industry, and is often unknowingly being sold as ‘natural ruby’ (2). It is perfectly all right to sell this material, but one must be prepared to disclose the treatment, as well as all of the enhancements, not to mention the precautions for care and cleaning. The treatment is glass filling. The enhancements are as follows: a) to enhance

its stability, making it durable enough that it doesn’t just crumble in your fingers, and so you can actually cut and polish it as any other gem material; b) to enhance its clarity, so you don’t just see an opaque block of corundum. Now filled, it is a transparent gem material; c) to enhance its colour, starting out as a medium to dark somewhat reddish/purplish colour, the addition of the yellow high lead content glass gives this material a beautiful ‘ruby red’ colour; and finally, d) to enhance its weight, as there is a substantial amount of glass used in the filling of fractures, as well as being used as a binding agent to fuse together several chunks/pieces of this material. Even with all of our ‘Talk’, just within this past year, I have been in two fine reputable jewellers and have helped them remove from their ‘fine jewellery cases’ at least two dozen pieces of ‘ruby-set jewellery’ set with this material. The store owners were shocked that their ‘reputable suppliers’ would send them this instead of natural ruby. One supplier was so adamant about not sending such product, that he heatedly asked whether we had a laboratory report proving our claim.

1. Using reflected light, one can easily see the multitude of fissures traversing the surface of the corundum. If nothing else, this is a sure indication that this material was a great candidate for glass filling.

2. Accent diamonds set in 14 ct yellow gold featuring a 3+ ct glass-filled hybrid composite corundum (glass-filled ruby). They make for pretty jewellery, but there is not much value — $10 or less for the red stone.

Page 10

3. This close-up of a ruby’s surface shows hundreds of fissures racing across the table. A prime candidate for filling if it hasn’t been done already.

The jeweller informed the supplier that this is not a difficult identification, and that we would not be sending any of these pieces to a professional laboratory for a report. So for those of you who are still being challenged by your suppliers — or clients who may have already purchased such material — to identify this material, do not hesitate to show them. First, use overhead lighting to light up the highly fractured surface of the material (3). Next, using dark field illumination, show them the blue flash and gas bubbles that will no doubt be present. With so many natural inclusions to peer through, there will be times when it may actually take you a minute or so to find gas bubbles that will be obvious to the supplier. Do not panic — you will find them. Once identified, make certain that precautions on jewellery repair and cleaning are reviewed — no heat, or acids of any kind should come near this material. What to call this material? Call it a composite, call it a hybrid, call it a man-made product, call it glass-filled corundum… but whatever you call it, make certain to disclose its treatment and its enhancements.

Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Gems & Minerals

4. This is a superb pair of platinum, rock crystal, pink tourmaline and diamond Art Deco clips, signed Cartier, circa 1935.



It’s just rock crystal Being in New York to teach gemmology to up-and-coming jewellery designers gives us even more reasons to visit the auction houses. At a recent Magnificent Jewellery auction preview at Sotheby’s, there were several pieces that caught our attention, not because of the rarity of the gem material, but for its use in design. Seeing rock crystal as the jewellery, and not as the classic faceted or cabochoned gem, always seems to stand out. We don’t see it often enough, but the use of rock crystal as the jewel, and not the gem, was considered more often in the Art Deco era than in any other time period. In this exhibit there were two, both Deco in style, one from the early 1900s (4), and one modern Aletto Brothers piece (5).

The gems of BaselWorld — 2013 We’re all looking forward to this year’s BaselWorld jewellery show as they have completely rebuilt Hall 3 — the Hall of Elements — the Gem Hall. As the gemstone editor for the BaselWorld Daily News, it is my job to write about all of the important and exciting gems in the Hall, which usually means not only writing about what I have seen, but also taking images of them. In preparation for the show, I have been communicating with over 40 gem exhibitors these past few months. Saturated colour, large sizes, better quality, and untreated gems always seem to be their focus. Here are some of the organic gems we expect to be seeing at this year’s event (6, 7, 8).


6. Beads do not take second place easily at BaselWorld as these fine quality angelskin coral beads from Ruppenthal will attest, measuring 14+ mm. 7. One of the most incredibly rare gem pearls seen in Basel are the Melo melo pearls of Southeast Asia. The feel of a 60+ ct Melo melo pearl gives one a better appreciation for its rarity and beauty. At approximately $1,000/ct, gems like this are definitely there to impress even the veteran jeweller. 8. Large and ‘small’ South Seas pearls will be on exhibit. Here we have a 22+ mm round alongside a ‘smaller’ 10 mm cultured pearl.

About the author

5. Here’s an 18 ct white gold, rock crystal and diamond bracelet, made by Aletto Brothers, composed of 14 fluted rock crystal columns, spaced and accented by numerous round diamonds weighing approximately 10.05 ct total weight. All photos by Gary Roskin.

Gary Roskin is the author of Photo Masters for Diamond Grading and hosts the online gem news magazine The Roskin Gem News Report. For more information please visit:

Page 11

Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Gems and Minerals

Bottled up Gagan Choudhary FGA of the Gem Testing Laboratory in Jaipur, India, tells of an interesting incident with an RI contact fluid bottle. At a gem lab one always expects unusual and interesting gem materials to come in for identification, especially if it is located at one of the major centres of coloured gemstones, like the Gem Testing Laboratory, Jaipur. Seldom does one find an interesting mineral specimen hiding on the shelf.

yellow, bi-pyramidal crystals (1). These were immediately assumed to be sulphur. However, the author had not previously encountered such large crystals in a bottle of RI contact fluid, although fine grains are quite common. The largest crystal measured approximately 14.70 mm in length. The crystal was carefully detached from the applicator and was kept safely for further study. The lab had purchased several bottles of RI contact fluid bottles from the Gem-A shop in London in August 2009 and when checked back at the laboratory another was also found to contain similar large crystals. One was of good quality (2) and also extracted for study.

Visual Observations The two largest crystals weighed 1.62 and 1.09 ct and measured 14.70 and 9.24 mm respectively in their longest direction (3a, b). Both were bright yellow with a bright vitreous lustre, but variable degree 1. Large bright yellow, semi-transparent to translucent bi-pyramidal crystals (of sulphur) formed at the lower end of the applicator of the RI contact fluid, obtained in August 2009.

Recently, during an on-site testing assignment, the author was taken by surprise when he was setting up the equipment. While opening a fresh bottle of RI contact fluid, a solid object was seen attached to the brush end of the fluid applicator. Initially it was thought to be impurities deposited on the brush. Therefore, the applicator was taken out very gently so that the attached material could be removed without contaminating the fluid. The author was surprised when the attached solid material was revealed as a cluster of large, bright

Page 12


2. Such crystals with high degree of transparency were also produced in another bottle of the contact fluid obtained in the same batch.

of diaphaneity; the 1.09 ct specimen was transparent while the 1.62 ct specimen was translucent. Both crystals displayed a characteristic bi-pyramidal habit associated with the orthorhombic system and sharp crystal edges; the 1.62 ct crystal displayed a high degree of twinning, with smaller crystals extending out of the main crystal from the pyramidal faces (3a). The 1.09 ct crystal was also twinned, but the smaller daughter crystal was attached to the main crystal at one of the corners along the horizontal axis; in addition, this crystal also displayed distinct and sharp striations following its edges (3b).


3a, b. The two largest sulphur crystals extracted from the cluster displayed bi-pyramidal habit associated with the orthorhombic crystal system, measured 14.70 mm (a) and 9.24 mm (b). Note the difference in the transparency of the two crystals. Also note the striations following the crystal edges (b).

Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Gems and Minerals

Microscopic observations


For curiosity, the crystals were observed under the microscope. Although the 1.62 ct crystal did not display any characteristic features, the 1.09 ct crystal did. A group of long and short tube-like features was present, where the tubes appeared to be oriented in three directions following the edges of the pyramidal crystal face (4). In addition to these tubes, a large negative crystal was also present; this negative crystal also contained numerous smaller globules and little tubes (5). Some wavy colour and growth zoning was also present, oriented mainly along the planes perpendicular to the c axis (5). Strong doubling of inclusions (4) and crystal edges was also obvious, as expected for sulphur, which has a high birefringence of 0.291.

Tests were mainly conducted on the 1.09 ct sample because of its better degree of transparency. Hydrostatic SG was measured at 2.04, while under UV light (both long- and short-wave) the sample displayed a weak orange glow. However, in DiamondView™ the crystal appeared green (6). No observable pleochroism was seen. With a desk model spectroscope, complete absorption of wavelengths in the violet-blue region was observed; this was further confirmed by UV-Vis-NIR spectrometry. Raman spectra collected in the range 200–2000 cm-1 using 532 nm green laser displayed sharp peaks at 218, 246, 437 and 472 cm-1 (7), peaks consistent with elemental sulphur.


4. A group of long and short tube-like features was present in the crystal illustrated in 3b.

As expected, the crystals were confirmed as being elemental sulphur, one of the components of the RI contact fluid along with tetra-iodoethylene and di-iodomethane. Although sulphur forming as a result of sublimation from volcanic gases and/or due to bacterial actions is quite common in nature, formation of a crystal of significant size in a closed bottle of contact fluid seems unusual and well worth a few minutes of a gemmologist’s time. Now the important gemmological question. Are these crystals natural or should they be described as synthetic? A topic for GemTalk?

6. DiamondView™ image of the sulphur crystal.

A comment Gem-A’s Alan Clark, director of Gemmological Instruments Ltd, comments: Over the years we and our customers have sometimes encountered crystals at the top of RI liquid forming a crust but never, to my knowledge, crystals of this size. I wondered what the RI of the liquid minus the sulphur that formed these crystals was; Gagan Choudhary’s answer was that he was still able to measure the RI of sapphire using the same liquid, so it must have been 1.77 plus. Possibly the bottles were on their sides when stored, allowing the crystals to form along the applicator at the boundary between the liquid and the air in the bottle. In my experience, crystals usually form when the liquid is stored at too low a temperature — unlikely in Jaipur — or else the liquid has evaporated slightly. Crystallization can be minimized if the RI liquid is kept in a warm environment and well-sealed.

7. Raman spectra of the sulphur crystals displayed characteristic peaks 472 at 218, 246, 437 and 472 cm-1.

Raman intensity


437 246


5. The large negative crystal was also present in the crystal represented in 3b, showing the smaller globules and small tubes, and the wavy colour and growth zoning. All photos by Gagan Choudhary.








Wavenumbers (cm-1)

About the author Gagan Choudhary is the deputy director of the Gem Testing Laboratory in Jaipur, India, and is involved in certification and research.

Page 13

Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

The diversity of Tucson Last month Jack Ogden FGA gave his highlights of the recent Tucson Show. Here James Riley FGA talks about his first visit to the event and what Gem-A lugged back for its Book and Stone Library and Teaching collection. Emerald crystals in pyrites from Muzo mine (left) and in quartz from El Chivor mine (right). Copyright Gem-A, photo by Henry Mesa Bedoya.

Tucson really is an incredible place — over 40 different ‘shows’ varying in size and quality dotted around the city. Part of the problem, especially if you are an exhibitor, is to get around and see everything. Fortunately Gem-A had a star team in attendance to sniff out the unusual, interesting, new or just down right wacky. As the new boy my skills were utilized in negotiating with the diverse sellers from numerous cultures and backgrounds. Jack was on hand to take some great photos and tap up authors for our publications and speakers for our conferences. Fluorite

On holiday was Paveet Amrit from our education department. Silent but deadly — together with Davina Dryland, our guest geologist — she continually reported on things that might be of interest. Last and by no means least Andrew Fellows and I (AKA Laurel and Hardy) competed to see who could find the most unusual and dangerous gemstone. So what did we find to make your mouth water?

queen Claire Mitchell is an old hand at Tucson and led the strategy to ensure we covered all bases. I soon discovered that a good way of keeping the ‘Gaffer’ happy was to produce a piece of fluorite which she does not have in her collection. Helen Serras Herman (whose article on Tucson appeared in the January/February issue of The Jeweller) duly obliged with a piece from Kingman in Northern Arizona! Meanwhile, Lizzie Gleave had a list of stones required for teaching samples and as an experienced gem dealer and tutor was ideally placed to execute her mission.

Bonding with nature… Gem-A instructor Claire Mitchell with a Tucson cactus.

Emeralds: what colour would you like? Subscribers to our GemTalk forum will be familiar with the heated discussions about nomenclature and specifically last year about ‘yellow emerald’ or Emeryl as it has recently been trademarked by the Yellow Emerald Bixbite crystal and cut samples. Copyright Gem-A, photo by Henry Mesa Bedoya. Page 15

Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

The Diversity of Tucson (cont.)

Two samples of Louisiana Opal. Copyright Gem-A, photo by Henry Mesa Bedoya.

Mining Company. To the rest of us it’s just yellow beryl or heliodor. This nomenclature issue presents problems for dealers. Well-known emerald dealer Ray Zaijek had signs on his stand saying Red Emerald, Red Beryl and Bixbite. Of course they are all the same stone and only the last two of those descriptions are correct — in my humble opinion. The thing is that the purchaser will probably call it what he likes anyway and that while Tucson is the leading place for this sort of thing, many people just don’t have the knowledge to know what things are. So the seller has to cover all the bases to cater for the lowest common denominator and then hope to educate his buyer without losing a sale. In addition to some great teaching stones and crystals of bixbite, we purchased two very different pieces of emerald rough

Pink zoisite rough and faceted from Tanzania. Copyright Gem-A, photo by Henry Mesa Bedoya.

Page 16

still in their host mineral from Ray. This is unusual because most of the material is crushed. Even Ron Ringsrud, who will be speaking at the Scottish Gemmological Association Conference in May, is only able to sell pieces which he has ‘assembled’ — with full disclosure however! The genuine articles were examples from the Muzo and El Chivor mines. The first was in pyrites exhibiting excellent termination structure and the other in quartz showing delicate hexagonal crystals of the finest material. Our “we want it but we can’t afford it” was an amazing pair of trapiche emerald cabochons. Just don’t ask how much…

Opals, opals and more opals Opals come from Australia — right? Mexico? Well OK maybe Ethiopia as well? All of the above are true. We were able to purchase some excellent examples of dyed and smoked Ethiopian material where the art of negotiation was in force. How much are these? Offer half the price… Very interesting were some specimens of fossilized wood and coral where opal had replaced the fossil. These were Australian. Very unassuming was a sample of Russian opal but the most unusual was a source of opal from Louisiana which is reverse hydrophane. A mixture of opal and quartz,

it is harder than most opal at 7 on Mohs’ scale and it is reasonably heatresistant. The deposit for this was very small and mined out in the 1990s. It is unlikely that there is another deposit making this quite scarce. Not my personal favourite but… For diamond lovers there were some excellent examples of an alluvial deposit from Brazil where the crystals have become trapped in sedimentary rock. An unusual phenomenon was a stand selling diamond where the nitrogen had been replaced by hydrogen making an unusual pattern in the stone. Allegedly these were natural stones. Jason Williams popped by our stand one day with a ‘pink’ tanzanite. Apparently these

Rough diamond crystal in alluvial deposit of sedimentary rock from Brazil. Copyright Gem-A, photo by Henry Mesa Bedoya.

Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Shows and Exhibitions

Paraíba tourmaline crystal in quartz from Barista mine, Paraíba province, Brazil. Copyright Gem-A, photo by Jack Ogden.

lilac stones had been found in Block D. We tracked down a piece of rough and a faceted stone at Idar-Oberstein cutter and dealer August Mayer. Details of this deposit can be found in last summer’s In Color magazine. Perhaps the most bizarre stones we came across were a donation of some peridotites from Charles Ellis. These stones have actually formed inside a meteorite somewhere in outer space. Research is

ongoing about where and how they were formed. It’s unusual for them to be larger than 20 points however with as little as 2% being over 40 points. Or maybe it was a cat’s-eye demantoid topazolite donated by Shawn Maddox. This stone originates from the San Diablo range in California, and it took 12 years of prospecting to find the deposit. Now that’s dedication! Speaking of demantoid, there were some

delightful Namibian demantoid garnets from the Green Dragon Mine showing that demantoid doesn’t need to be Russian. For the book lovers among you Rock of Ages had an extensive selection of unusual books. Perhaps the sweetest was a little book entitled The Romance of your Birthstone by Hope Swengel — published in the 1940s for $8. My favourite thing? A Paraíba tourmaline crystal in quartz from the Barrista mine in Paraíba province. The true electric blue colour is stunning. Some of you may remember a talk at our conference two years ago by Brian Cook, the supplier of this piece. Thank you Brian. Back to those dangerous gems. Radioactive willemite, mercury ore — cinnabar, arsenic-based realgar or my favourite villiaumite which contains sodium fluoride. Please don’t put this in your coffee anyone — hydro-fluoric acid is not pleasant.

Peridotite from meteor, rough and faceted. Copyright Gem-A, photo by Henry Mesa Bedoya.

Pick your poison. Faceted examples of willemite, realgar, cinnabar and villiaumite. Copyright Gem-A, photo by Henry Mesa Bedoya.

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Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

From the Archives

Exams In this hundredth anniversary of the first gemmology exams, Jack Ogden back at that first examination in 1913. One hundred years ago, on the evenings of 21 and 22 April 1913, 20 people sat down to take the first ever gemmology examinations set by the Gemmology Committee of the National Association of Goldsmiths (NAG), the committee that eventually matured into the independent Gemmological Association of Great Britain, the Gem-A we see today. Of those 20 nervous candidates, eight were taking the Diploma exam in the Central School of Arts and Crafts in Southampton Row, London, now Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, and 12 were taking what was then called the Preliminary exam, six at the Central School of Arts and Crafts, six “in the provinces under duly appointed supervisors”. It cost £1 18s to enter the Preliminary exam, £3 3s. to enter the two Diploma exams (theory and practical). The Preliminary exams were open “to any member of the trade, whether engaged in the wholesale or retail sides of the business” and it was not necessary for the candidates to be or become members or associates of the NAG. There was no age limit. For the Diploma exams, the candidate had to be over 21 years old and be or become a member or associate of the NAG before being awarded the Diploma. Students could decide which level they wished to enter and there was no need to pass the Preliminary before taking the Diploma, although three of the 1913 Preliminary graduates took and passed the Diploma in 1914. ‘Fellowship’ status (FGA) for Diploma graduates was a later introduction, but the early graduates were allowed to use the designation letters GD standing for ‘Gemmological Diplomate’. Interestingly, the Examinations Board of the NAG had previously debated the correct spelling of gemmology — one or two ‘m’s. Herbert Smith had preferred it with a single ‘m’, but in their meeting in September 1912 the Examinations Board had formally agreed and minuted that “in all matters relating to the examinations the word Gemmology be spelled as herein written”, that is with two ‘m’s. The 1913 exam questions are shown opposite. The way of denoting weight in carats and fractions of a carat may bewilder modern gemmologists, but it reflects the way gems used to be weighed with two-arm balances and little weights in various sizes which, combined, could be summed to any carat value. The method of calculating pearl values using the ‘base’ system is still used by some natural pearl dealers, and was part of the Gemmological Association of Great Britain’s gemmology syllabus at least as late as the 1960s. ‘Cape ruby’ was a pyrope garnet, jacinth was red zircon. The British Jeweller magazine of 1 May 1913 noted that the questions in the first exam covered “a very interesting, instructive

Page 18



A report on the first ever gemmology examinations by G.F. Herbert Smith, the theory examiner.

and well varied field.” The examiners were G.F. Herbert Smith (theory examiner), W. J. Lewis Abbott (practical examiner) and W. Augustus Steward (director of examinations). An extract from their report following the exam notes that: “The character of the work in both the theoretical and the practical parts of the Diploma Examination was very satisfactory. The candidates on the whole displayed considerable knowledge of the subject, and evinced some skill in identifying stones and in applying the needful physical tests. In the Preliminary Examination, on the other hand, the standard of the work was less satisfactory. The work of the candidates varied largely in character, one returning almost perfect answers [A.W.F. Hamson with 92%], but others showing little accurate knowledge [such as A.F. Williams with 21%]. It may be noted that few of the candidates in either Examination seemed familiar with the method of calculating the value of pearls by the ‘base’ system.” Remarkably the director of examinations commented that: “Several of the candidates expressed to me their thanks for the kindly manner in which they had been treated by the Examiners.” It was not expressly stated that the candidates were rather pressed for time in the exams, but when the exams for the following year were planned it was agreed that the time allowed for both the

Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

From the Archives

Preliminary and Diploma (practical) exams should be increased to three and a half hours each. The pass mark in both Preliminary and Diploma exams was 50%. Six of the eight Diploma candidates passed and seven of the 12 Preliminary candidates passed. The two who failed the Diploma in 1913 retook the exam in 1914 and both passed. Three of those who failed the Preliminary exam in 1913 retook it and passed the following year. The successful candidates received their Diplomas and, for the Preliminary exam, certificates, at a special meeting on 17 July during the Jeweller’s Exhibition that year in Agricultural Hall, later the Royal Agricultural Hall, Islington, London, a magnificent exhibition venue founded in 1861 and prior to World War II the site of numerous industry exhibitions. The Diplomas were designed by students of Central School of Arts and Crafts — the design being approved by the Examinations Board on 8 May. The jeweller Samuel

Barnett, a driving force in the establishment of the gemmology exams and a contributor to the NAG Educational Fund, was one of the Diploma Graduates in 1913, but it was simply alphabetical hierarchy that gave him Diploma number 1. His actual student number in the exam was 3. The British Jeweller magazine, in congratulating the NAG for its ‘innovation’ in establishing the 1913 exams, commented: “With the great increase in the use of gems in articles of jewellery, and the increase in the number of varieties of the gems themselves, not forgetting the varieties of imitation and synthetic stones which are now so common, a thorough theoretical and practical knowledge of gem stones is necessary for the properly equipped jeweller.” Those words are equally applicable today, although we might now also add treated gems to the syllabus, a category noticeably absent from those exams a hundred years ago.

The questions The questions asked in those first exams were as follows: Preliminary (3 hours allowed) 1 Define hardness, cleavability. What gem-stones are at least as hard as topaz? 2 Describe the brilliant form of cutting diamond. 3 What is the specific gravity of a stone, and how may it be determined? Calculate the specific gravity of a stone weighing 10 1/2, 1/16 and 8 1/4, 1/32 carats in air and water respectively. 4 What species might be represented in a parcel of red stones? How would you distinguish between them? 5 Define refractive index, and describe a method of measuring it. 6 How may paste and synthetic stones and imitation and culture pearls be distinguished from the corresponding natural substances? 7 Describe the following species, so far as they are used in jewellery: Beryl, corundum, diamond, garnet, opal, quartz. 8 What is the orient of pearl? Explain to what peculiarity of structure it is due. 9 Calculate the value of: (a) a stone weighing 11 1/2, 1/8, 1/32 carats at £2 12s. 6d. a carat. (b) a bunch, comprising 150 pearls as under, at 10s. the base: 5 pearls weighing 10 grains, 20 pearls weighing 25 grains, 125 pearls weighing 60 grains. Diploma Theory (three hours allowed) 1 To what mineral species do the following stones belong: Alexandrite, Cape-ruby, bloodstone, cat’s eye, jacinth, kunzite? What do jewellers mean by ‘olivine’? 2 Describe the brilliant form of cutting diamond. What are the principles governing its shape, and what are the effects of neglecting them? 3 What is the specific gravity of a stone? Describe fully the various methods of determining it.

4 What species might be represented in a parcel of red stones? State clearly the characters upon which you would rely in distinguishing between them. 5 Define refractive index, and give a full description of a method of measuring it. In what way does the double refraction of a stone affect the observations? How would you explain appreciable differences between the values obtained for different specimens of the same species? 6 Discuss the method by which gem-stones and pearls have been artificially reproduced or imitated, and point out how such may be distinguished from the corresponding natural substances. 7 Describe fully the following species, so far as they are used in jewellery, giving their physical properties and chemical composition: beryl, corundum, diamond, garnet, opal, peridot, quartz, turquoise. 8 Describe the principal gem-stones found in Brazil and California and mention the more important localities. 9 What is the orient of pearl? Explain to what peculiarity of structure it is due. Describe briefly the principal pearl fisheries. Diploma Practical (four hours allowed) 1 Determine as far as you can the physical characters — including the hardness, specific gravity, refractive indices, and the double refraction and dichroism (if any) — of the specimens set before you; find the weight in each case. Identify the specimens. 2 Identify the mounted stones set before you, in each case describing the cutting and estimate the weight. 3 Calculate the value of a bunch of 19,558 pearls as under at 8s. 6d. the base: 1,478 pearls weighing 220 carats, 2,794 pearls weighing 271 carats, 3,778 pearls weighing 252 carats, 4,868 pearls weighing 228 carats, and 6,640 pearls weighing 222 carats.

Page 19

20th/21st April

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Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Book Shelf

Jewels from Imperial St. Petersburg Jack Ogden FGA reviews an impressive new book that chronicles the jewellery, its makers and its wearers of pre-Revolution Russia.

Ulla Tillander-Godenhielm Jewels from Imperial St. Petersburg. Unicorn Press, St Petersburg, La Belière and London 2012. ISBN: 978-1-906509-25-8 St. Petersburg was founded in 1703 by Peter the Great, Tsar of Russia, later the Russian Empire, between 1682 (when he was just ten years old) and his death in 1725. We have few details about the craftsmen who first came or were brought to the new city from Moscow and various Western European centres, but Peter’s known enthusiasm for the arts helped goldsmiths’ work to flourish and the growth of St. Petersburg as a major centre for the jewelled arts was propelled by his four successors, all women. This book traces the jewellery produced in St. Petersburg from its foundation through to the cataclysmic impact of the Revolutions in 1917. The author, an acknowledged expert in the subject, takes us on an essentially chronological journey through the

jewellery, its makers and its wearers. Portraits and documents intersperse the huge number of jewels shown, from private and museum collections. Many of the large number of objects shown are in private collections in Finland, a reminder that Finland was a Grand Duchy of Russia between 1809 and 1917. The earliest St. Petersburg jewel illustrated by the author is a gold and silver brooch depicting an eagle on a floral spray set with diamonds, emeralds, rubies and sapphires dating to around 1750. From the second half of the eighteenth century there are some magnificent gold boxes, of course, but for the gemmologist gems of interest include a green chrysoprase set in a ring with the cipher of Catherine II (1770s–80s). Once into the nineteenth century jewellery blossoms and we see a huge enthusiasm for coloured gems alongside diamonds. For the gemmologist there is a paucity of detail about the chronology and sources of the gems in this book. It would be good to see, for example, the fine pink topazes, amethysts and occasional demantoid garnet in the jewellery in the context of Russia’s own deposits of these gems. Colour is all around. There are many varieties of gems set in the jewellery shown, including hessonite and almandine garnet, turquoise, opal and pearls, as well as the gems already mentioned. And, there is the large pink diamond in the tiara of Maria Feodorovna. This ornament, with its 13.35 ct pink diamond was made in St. Petersburg around 1800. It looks an amazing colour, but we might ask whether some of the images have slightly intensified the colour of the actual gems. There are also a couple of pieces set with what is described as ‘Mecca stone’. In the nineteenth century this seems mainly to have been used to describe carnelian, but apparently Fabergé used it in a looser way to include other colours of

chalcedony — the current book includes milky blue and lilac examples. Once into the late nineteenth and twentieth centuries the jewellery reflects haute epoch styles found elsewhere in Europe. Sparkling little diamonds are set in delicate platinum mounts, a trend seen across Europe and America at the period, but also a reminder that Russia was a primary source of this precious metal. The final section of the book includes a look at the Tillanders themselves. A young Alexander Edvard Tillander (1837–1918), from Finland, travelled to St. Petersburg and at 11 was apprenticed to a goldsmith in the ‘village of the Tsars’ — Tsarskoe Selo 15 miles south of St. Petersburg. He and then his son, Alexander junior, rose to prominence as important jewellers with son taking over the business from his father in 1910. With the outbreak of the Revolution in 1917 Alexander junior moved back to Finland with his family; his father stayed in St. Petersburg where he died in 1918. A large number of those fleeing Russia in the aftermath of the Revolution came to Finland, many bearing their jewellery as the easiest way to transport wealth. Buying and selling this jewellery re-established the Tillander business, now in Helsinki. The third generation — Alexander junior’s three sons Leo, Herbert and Viktor — continued the business. Herbert Tillander will be known to readers for his Diamond Cuts in Historic Jewellery 1381–1910 (September 1996). Ulla Tillander-Godenhielm, the author of Jewels from Imperial St. Petersburg, is the great-granddaughter of Alexander Tillander. She has written eruditely and with passion about a subject close to her heart, and has assembled a remarkable range of illustrations to bring her story to life. This is a beautifully produced book, a delight to look at and essential for any jewellery historian’s bookshelf.

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Gems&Jewellery / April 2013

Stone Scoop

Colours Jack Ogden FGA takes a look at the coloured gem market a century ago, tfrom sapphires in ascendance to a jet revival. In the last issue of Gems&Jewellery we looked at some UK press reports about diamonds from 1913. This time we switch our focus to coloured gems and what better way than to start by quoting from The Manchester Courier and Lancashire General Advertiser (24 December 1913) “Diamonds are not by any means the most expensive among precious stones. Pearls are the dearest of all, and next to them are pigeonblood rubies. Rubies are not very fashionable, but the best are so rare that their price remains excessively high. After rubies come emeralds, then diamonds and sapphires.”

Manchester blues The same press report went on to say: “The true dark blue sapphire is one of the most popular stones this year.” Sapphire had actually been sparse in European jewellery over the previous few centuries, up until the Kashmir deposits were discovered in the early 1880s. By the early 1900s sapphires were becoming popular and The Manchester Courier and Lancashire General Advertiser was by no means the only newspaper to comment on this — most mentions of engagement rings in the press that year were described as being of sapphire and diamond. And popularity, of course, breeds imitation. Luckily for the fashion-conscious woman of modest means, synthetic sapphires were now available; indeed their presence on the market was worrying to jewellers and was one of the factors that prompted the development of our gemmology courses. Earlier the same year The Manchester Courier and Lancashire General Advertiser had noted that “Wonderful imitation sapphires, too, are much worn. Because real sapphires are the stones of the moment...” (9 September 1913). The same paper had also mentioned synthetics, then described as ‘reconstructed sapphire’ (17 May 1913).

Page 22

Cartier chic The frequent mentions of gems and jewellery in a 1913 Manchester newspaper is hardly surprising, Manchester was then a highly prosperous city. Indeed, that same year Cartier exhibited jewellery at the iconic ‘Edwardian baroque’ Midland Hotel in Manchester, then just ten years old. The Cartier pieces shown included “a wonderful pendant of oriental design” (The Manchester Courier and Lancashire General Advertiser 14 November 1913). The report did, naturally, refer to Cartier’s diamond ornaments, noting that ‘'In most instances the diamonds are mounted with extremely light platinum settings, which greatly enhance their brilliance”, but also commented on “A very charming innovation introduced by this firm is the new carved rock crystal. This crystal is transparent, and possesses the attractive quality of reflecting the colour of the wearer’s frock. It is seen in many fascinating aspects, surrounded by precious stones.”

Gem fields and polo fields

Sapphires and diamonds were not the only fashionable precious gems if we are to believe The Evening Telegraph for 1 September 1913 which noted: “For some unaccountable reason lately lapidaries have

been aware that the opal and the ruby are enjoying a popularity which is somewhat unusual.” It commented that opals had become lucky and that a growing interest in rubies derived from people having greater familiarity with “a little village called Mogok” even though “The civilized world knows nothing of the famous mines there, for the road lies through forest which is seldom trod by man. A few Englishmen who live there have laid out a polo ground, and between this and the town are the mines.” It added that “Dealers are experiencing the beginning of the boom in these gems, and it is expected that in a few weeks when the London season begins, the market will be in full swing.”

Jet set For those with shallower pockets and no wish to buy imitations, many other coloured gems were available. There was apparently a reawakening of interest in marcasite jewellery in England in 1913, although, we are told, it had been popular in France since the discovery of a large deposit in the Jura Mountains in 1846 (The Derby Daily Telegraph 30 July 1913). There was also “a distinct revival of the mode for jet” as noted in several reports. So, all in all it looks as if people in 1913 liked coloured gems and there was a good variety to choose from. In fact little had changed since a century earlier. In 1813 The Hampshire Chronicle (8 November) said that “red and white cornelian” was being worn with less formal dress, but that with formal attire “coloured stones have a decided pre-eminence over pearls. Emeralds and rubies are highest in estimation; but sapphires, topazes, turquoises, in short every kind of coloured stones are worn.”


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Ethical Jeweller |

Gold: the new horsemeat? Miles Hoare reports on how the Gold Paper can ensure that traceability is not a concern within the UK jewellery industry. may have been unaware at the time, but I’ve probably eaten horse. To be honest I’m not particularly unsettled by the idea – what really troubles me, as a consumer, is how this happened. There is something almost sinister about a supply chain that willingly negates its responsibilities to both client and customer. But if the jewellery trade sneers at the food industry for knowingly or unknowingly deceiving consumers, it should take a long, hard look in the mirror. As I’ve been coming to terms with my equine eating habits, I’ve also been following the release of the Ethics Working Party’s (EWP) Gold Paper. The process it has gone through to make sense of the plethora of options out there puts the issues into context. The Channel 4 documentary The Real Price of Gold tried to shed light on what is a well-known but rarely mentioned aspect of the jewellery trade. The media often talks about ‘blood diamonds’ however there is little or no mention of the same issues within the precious metals and minerals industry. Although it tackled these largely unpublicised issues, Channel 4’s misinformed and under-researched piece of film scored some seemingly cheap points against the industry, but played no role in representing a fair view of the facts. The Gold Paper on the other hand seeks to summarise the major players and trade bodies involved in the gold supply chain in the UK. The document, first released at The Jewellery Show in February, goes some way to detailing how the industry in the UK is fairing rather well in tracing gold around the UK chain of supply. However, although there are points of happy convergence, the paper also documents 10


recommendations for the UK jewellery industry. Carefully considered by Greg Valerio, Vivien Johnston, Michael Hoare and Simon Rainer these are small, obtainable steps jewellers and manufacturers can take to ensure complete transparency from source to sale. Since the Gold Paper’s initial launch, the EWP has been lobbying the industry to take the recommendations on board and begin working toward realising their implications. The process really began in mid-March with the NAG’s Council and Forum meeting which focused on one of the main recommendations – to increase the communication between both jewellers and suppliers. The meeting invited jewellers to start discussions in response to the paper. It also provided a platform for the EWP to receive direct feedback from trade members

as to how they see the recommendations affecting their businesses. Many were concerned about price points and profit margins, with a number of attendees asking: “How many customers are actually asking for this?” “Not many” was the response from a number of jewellers. Concerns were also raised about value and price points – with worries about how more expensive source materials hit profit margins. It was pointed out by those who sell ‘ethically sourced’ gold that its ‘value added’ aspect offered potential for higher margins. However, one respondent added: “A number of us are active members in the Council and sit on CIBJO and we discuss these issues, but the UK jewellery industry is very apathetic. We like to talk the talk, but when it comes to jewellers on the ground taking up the challenge, we do nothing.” Practical issues such as how to price and sell ethical gold meant many respondents still remain reticent. That the sourcing of silver, diamond and gemstones is party to similar issues was also commented on. Should the scope of the paper expand beyond the gold industry? The EWP openly noted this as one of its on-going priorities. Time constraints meant that the meeting ended without any consensus on how to move the recommendations forward. Taking the ethical route can mean being tough on suppliers and manufacturers, demanding the facts and forging relationships based more on trust and transparency rather than price and profit. However, more often than not the process of demanding information will allow jewellers to realise that if they are sourcing from within the UK, their gold is most likely recycled and/or ‘ethically sourced’. For some the idea of change is actually more scary than the reality and if the findings in the Gold Paper are to be believed, many traders who are fearful of the change might already be sourcing ethicallysound gold without their knowledge. There’s a chance to start moving forward before the industry sees horse meat-type headlines. As these issues become more pertinent and more widely acknowledged, jewellers who fail to act will be answering tough questions from newly-informed consumers who won’t accept pricing fears or apathy as an answer – they will just shop elsewhere.

The Voice of the Industry 31

| Security

The threat of cross-border crime Michael Hoare offers an update on criminal activity across the channel, which is now reaching our shores… ith the high speed rail link to the north of England in the news again this week, and this month’s SaferGems bulletin containing numerous reports of European heists, it’s time to reflect again on the international nature of crime. Not only do we receive more reports daily of thieves and fraudsters who are prepared to cross borders, more reports of migrant gangs and confidence tricksters, but we also hear of criminals able to use data and identities stolen in one country to commit crime in another. The convenience of high speed travel between continents and the extremities of the UK is not lost on criminals any more than it is on international business men. As well as the £32 million diamond heist at Brussels Airport and the three million


32 The Jeweller April 2013

Euros of gems stolen from a Paris jeweller, our counterparts in mainland Europe have provided SaferGems with images of alleged offenders whose methods are far more mundane, but equally objectionable. They range from the Spanish-speaking male who stole a watch from a store in Breda, Netherlands to the male who distracted staff and stole a watch in Lausanne, Switzerland, and then is believed to have repeated the same trick in Geneva two weeks later. All are capable of jumping on Eurostar and repeating their deeds over here – hence SaferGems’ vigilance. There has been some success in curbing European robbers, with police reporting that two alleged Serbian members of the ‘Pink Panther’ gang of international jewel thieves

are to face trial in Switzerland. One of the two, a 34-year-old arrested in Turkey on an international warrant, will be extradited to Switzerland to stand trial. He is accused of the armed robbery of a watch and jewellery store in the northern city of Schaffhausen in March 2011. The haul, worth around 1.8 million Swiss francs ($1.96 million, 1.46 million Euros), has never been recovered. The second man was arrested in Montenegro and extradited to Switzerland last year. The thieves in the Lausanne robbery made off with watches and jewellery worth 500,000 Swiss francs ($545,000, 407,000 Euros) which has also never been found. Aside from extreme cases of cross-border criminality, we’ve also had our fair share of run-of-the-mill lowlifes conducting the usual dismal litany of robberies, attempted robberies, snatches, distractions and frauds this month. South Yorkshire Police are currently appealing for information regarding the identity of three men following a burglary at a heritage centre in Barnsley in December 2012. In this case the antique jewellery and gold quill cover stolen were valued at £40,000, but the real loss is to the heritage of this country. SaferGems receives increasing reports of historical artefacts that have been stolen from under the noses of trusting museum staff who don’t understand the base motivation of the philistines who commit these acts. We have to remain vigilant at all times, and thanks to an eagle-eyed jeweller in York a suspected father and son distraction team were arrested, having been recognised by staff from SaferGems Alerts. The jeweller contacted local police who made the arrests. However, having visited numerous other jewellery stores in the York area but committed no offences, they were released by North Yorkshire Police and handed over to officers from Humberside Police who charged them for a jewellery theft in Hull. They were subsequently bailed to an address in Birmingham, but are believed to be connected with offences in seven other English towns. These people will continue their criminal activity, but at least they now know we are watching. More positively, two men wanted by the Metropolitan Police and circulated by SaferGems for a high value jewellery theft in August 2012, have been jailed. Jimmy Tippett and Mark Spinks, both from Beckenham, were





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both jailed for 22 months at Croydon Crown Court on 15th February 2013 after pleading guilty to theft. Their flawed technique was to set up a pre-arranged meeting with a dealer at a hotel, claiming that they worked for a Saudi businessman. After about half an hour talking about a possible transaction, Tippett scooped up £250,000 of diamond jewellery and fled, with Spinks also attempting to flee the scene in a taxi which was stopped 100m away.

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A gang who fleeced some of the bestknown auction houses in the UK out of nearly £1 million worth of jewellery and watches are facing jail. Farouk Dougui, Jabey Bathurst and Simohamed Rahmoun, used stolen credit cards to obtain luxury goods from firms including Bonhams and Christie's during the seven-month scam. The gang used credit card details stolen from people in the US and Canada to establish false identities and register themselves with auction houses as

The convenience of high speed travel between continents and the extremities of the UK is not lost on criminals any more than it is on international businessmen… Less comically, two teenage robbers who raided a jewellery store and then shot at members of the public as they gave chase have been jailed. Momim Hassan and Tajwar Shah went armed with a hammer and a blank firing gun to a jeweller in Edgware, north London, on 16th November 2012. They were jailed for four years and three-and-ahalf years respectively at Wood Green Crown Court on 1st February 2013.

Number Plate

telephone bidders. A nationwide investigation led by Wiltshire Police found that more than 40 companies across the UK were conned by the gang in a fraud worth more than £800,000 between April and November 2010. Dougui, Bathurst and Rahmoun were remanded in custody to await sentencing. Lastly, here’s another story with an international flavour to which I was alerted by one of our friends in the Irish Republic.

Eugene Cullen first denied the robbery of Cartier Rolex watches valued at €108,887, from Hartmann Jewellers, Galway, in 2008, when he appeared before court in 2009. He absconded while awaiting trial but was arrested in Holland last May and has been in custody since. He was brought back before the court last December and pleaded guilty to the charge. Cullen was one of three masked men who entered the jewellery shop armed with a pistol with a silencer attached while the other two men had iron bars. Staff and one customer were ordered to lie on the floor while Cullen used the gun to smash a glass cabinet containing the watches. Passing sentence, Judge Rory McCabe said the offence was extremely serious and the only mitigating factor was Cullen's plea. He sentenced him to ten years in prison backdated to May last year.

w w w. s a f e r g e m s . o r g . u k

The Voice of the Industry 33

| Opinion: John Henn

Far too good to be forgotten Having worked alongside him for the past 12 years, John Henn offers his tribute to the NAG’s departing CEO Michael Hoare. ichael Hoare… I’m pleased he is off. He has given the NAG more time from his very precious life, I think, than we have ever been given by any CEO in the history of the Association. In the beginning of 2001 there was a wobble at the NAG. The Association was leaderless and blind to the world that was changing around it. I was soon to be chairman and the current chairman Bill Grant, Frank Wood the treasurer and myself were in the market for a new CEO. We were interviewing for a position which had a job specification none of us really understood; fortunately we had someone who did know to hold our hand. Bill was the details man, Frank the figures, me… I was just looking for the right spirit. This person would have to be able to work in an industry not known for its ability to embrace change – and then change it. Michael stood out from the other candidates, all of whom could do the numbers and had the skills to embrace the details of an association. This was not only because he was taller than them, but also he seemed to have an engaging personality that would help him build the sort of relationships with people we were not talking to, those who mattered. The Association had to reinstate credibility with the variety of offices from UK and overseas government, to the small independent members he would encounter. So he was hired and on 30th October he started work at Luke Street. I became chairman at the AGM of 2002, and had the best time a chairman could have, entirely because I had a fully reliable, alert CEO who did everything behind the scenes and, when left to his own devices, exceeded my expectations. (We also, it must be said, had


34 The Jeweller April 2013

a great treasurer in Frank Wood and of course Amanda and the rest of the revitalised office.) Michael has done everything we have asked of him and more besides, and he is rightly proud – see his Communiqué in the March issue of The Jeweller. Not only is he leaving on his own terms, and by that I mean he hasn't driven the directors crazy, but he is still healthy and will, I hope, have many more years of contribution to our trade at whatever level he chooses. It would be a missed opportunity, I think, not to mention one or two moments when it didn’t all go swimmingly. One in particular occurred in 2003 when we were looking for a right hand man for Michael. A number of applicants were sent to us from the recruitment company, all of who were supposed to have been eligible to start if offered the post. We liked one chap above the rest but nobody was outstanding, so after some deliberation we offered him the post. It only turned out that he was on a ‘reintegration programme’ for prisoners whose parole was coming up. Our candidate was finishing a stretch for gaining ‘lots’ of money by deception. It appeared everybody was in on

it except the potential employer. We were reliably informed our man would never have started work as his CV was fiction, but it was our first experience of someone so deceptive. Since then we have both been a bit more streetwise. Michael is also held in high regard by all the institutions he has become involved with on our behalf. I will be off to face the world of CIBJO in May. It never ceases to amaze me how single-minded some country representatives are, however once you've established their private agenda you begin to understand where their priorities lie. It seems to be left to the UK and some of the Europeans to give a less biased opinion, and stand up for the consumer. If it were not for Michael's work behind the scenes we would almost certainly have trouble defending our shores against undisclosed gemstone treatments and unwelcome government legislation. On behalf of a grateful Association, and because he has exceeded our expectations, we the directors will present Michael with a rather unorthodox leaving present. We are sending him and his lovely wife Anne (long-suffering of the NAG calendar of events) to Paris for a long weekend on the Eurostar (he likes trains), staying in a small hotel in Montmartre, where they will visit the Louvre and the Rodin museums (his degree was in sculpting and fine art) and if we can afford it send him to the Crazy Horse to see a show (look it up everyone should go once in their lives). Michael, your qualities of courage, intellect and leadership during the last 12 years will be much missed. Keep in touch and we look forward to supporting you in the future if we can.

Michael Hoare – hard at it as usual!

One of


Fine Jewellery Events JUNE Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair

20 - 23 June 2013

Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre

UBM Asia Ltd 17/F, China Resources Building, 26 Harbour Road, Wanchai, Hong Kong Teli(852) 2585 6127 / 2516 2115 Faxi(852) 3749 7344

DESIGNS TO INSPIRE AND SEDUCE Building on a hugely successful 2012 launch, the second edition of The Jewellery Show London will showcase over 150 of the most influential jewellery collections, suppliers and designers to a select audience of key retail buyers. Taking place on the 11 – 12th June at the spectacular Somerset House, the event also welcomes The Watch Salon – London’s first dedicated trade only event for the best UK and international watch brands and buyers in the business. This is the perfect setting in which to source A/W and Christmas 2013 collections, and to preview new ranges for S/S 2014. REGISTER FOR YOUR COMPLIMENTARY TICKET AT WWW.THEJEWELLERYSHOWLONDON.COM QUOTING PRIORITY CODE EJM1. To find out more about taking part, or to apply, please contact the team at or call +44 (0) 203 033 2292

In association with Brought to you by:

The Jewellery Show London is sponsored by the industry

Products featured: Necklace, earrings and large cuff (left hand) all by Missoma. Rings (left hand) by Rachel Galley. Cuff (right arm) Rachel Galley. Rings by Cindy Dennis Mangan and Clogau. Dress by Jaxika

Legal Jeweller |

The importance of data protection for retailers Bill Gornall-King of legal firm Boyes Turner explains the significance of the Data Protection Act (DPA) and how jewellery business owners can avoid breaching it.

very business, whether large or small, must keep all customer information secure, protect it from inappropriate disclosure and be open about what information is being collected and how it is being used.


Breaches of the DPA One of the most common breaches of the DPA is unlawful disclosure of personal information. This most typically occurs through accidently sending customer details to the wrong person via email, or hackers gaining access to payment and delivery information via an insecure website. Fines have the potential to be up to £500,000 and managers and/or owners may be prosecuted in extreme cases. Ways to avoid breaches There are a number of things that retailers can do to avoid getting caught out. These include regular testing of online security – including firewalls and encryption software, as well as having processes to record and

on the retailer’s home page (and also wherever personal data is collected as not all visitors will enter a website via the homepage) which explains who the retailer is and lets visitors know how their information is being collected and what it will be used for. Also, only ‘necessary’ information should be requested from customers who are registering or logging in and are asked to provide their personal details when they are making an enquiry. When taking payment information, only the minimum amount of data required should be recorded in order to receive the payment. Once this has been used, the information should not be kept for any longer than is absolutely necessary and at that point it should be disposed of securely. If any of the personal information recorded is going to be used to send marketing materials, the customer must be given a clear choice to decide whether to consent or not by ‘opt in’ or ‘opt out’ boxes. The information collected and held

“regularly test online security – including firewalls and encryption software, and have processes to record and report suspicious activities…” report suspicious activities including money laundering and fraud. Where contractors, sub-contractors or outsourcers are used in processes that involve customer information of any kind, contracts should be in place with them that include data protection. As far as websites are concerned, as a minimum there should be a notice or section

must also be current and kept up-to-date. To do this the customer should be regularly asked to check the information held about them which can be done through online access to their account details which gives them the ability to update and change their records. Also, don’t forget that people have a right of access to the information held

about them and staff should be regularly reminded about the need to make sure that they recognise a ‘subject access request’ and know how to deal with it. More information on subject access requests can be found at: protection/subject_access_requests.aspx.

If you don’t comply with the Data Protection Act 1998 (DPA) you may find yourself with: • a six figure fine • enforcement notices and ‘stop now’ orders requiring you to take (or refrain from taking) certain steps • the hassle and grief of conducting audits under the supervision of the Information Commissioner's Office • a prosecution for criminal offences

There is also the chance of being named and shamed with the resulting associated damage to both your reputation and brand. Information in this article is for guidance only and not a substitute for taking legal advice. If you would like to know more about data protection and how it affects businesses or individuals please contact Bill Gornall-King on 0118 959 7711 or

The Voice of the Industry 37

| Feature

Brand Profile Emozioni by Hot Diamonds It can’t have escaped your attention that a new ‘concept’ in collectible jewellery has reached the UK. Emozioni by Hot Diamonds is one brand offering the ‘coin’ story. f you accept that the ‘bead and charm’ trend has been one of the more pervasive and significant jewellery directions of the past few years, then it’s possible that you might be thinking that it’s about time another fashion phenomenon came along. And so it has. Visitors to the recent CMJ buying event in Birmingham, or The Jewellery Show at Spring Fair earlier in the year, will have noticed a few variations on the theme of ‘coin’ jewellery and already the interest in this latest interpretation of collectable, customisable jewellery is starting to gather significant interest. Among the handful of key players in this market is Hot Diamonds which has thrown itself into the interchangeable coin concept arena with Emozioni. The name obviously suggests feelings – but in this instance the collection is driven by ‘pure aesthetic’ – a feeling for colour and ‘the look’.


Although it’s relatively new to the UK (and has yet to hit the US) the coin idea has been hugely popular in mainland Europe (Ireland, Holland and Germany in particular) for around four years. Names like My iMenso (Unique) and Mi Moneda (Ti Sento) are already well-known at a consumer level. Last year Hot Diamonds researched how those other similar brands were servicing the market.

“We felt that we could add something significant and create a desirable and commercial USP for Hot Diamonds that would place us at the forefront of the trend,” says head of commerce Adryan Cresswell. “We imagine the Emozioni consumer preparing for an evening out – choosing her dress, shoes, make-up and finally opening her jewellery box and experimenting with different colours and textures of coin, until settling on the perfect ornamentation for her outfit.” Because this image is so key to the story (and of course because it’s a jolly good sales tool for supplier as well as retailer!) the Hot Diamonds team has also introduced a Collector Jewellery Box. In the same bitter chocolate tone as the rest of the Emozioni packaging it slides open to reveal a variety of jewel coins to choose from. “It is intended to be a joyful experience and is utterly integral to the idea of the whole concept,” explains Cresswell. Intentional or not and, arguably in contrast to the bead and charm concept, coin jewellery – which revolves around pendants – has the potential to be more fashion-led, sophisticated and perhaps even grown-up.

Key Facts • Coin Keepers are in sterling silver and diamond or 18ct rose gold on sterling silver and diamond • The three lengths of chain are available in sterling silver, silver plate or 18ct rose gold • The silver keepers, chains and coins are rhodium plated to ensure a consistent finish • Chain are available in three lengths: 16-18", 30" and 35" • Coins are typically silver plate and CZ, although other materials and textures are included in the line • Coins are priced between £20 and £30 – the collectible price-point ensured by the use of silver plate rather than silver

38 The Jeweller April 2013

Feature | Beads and charms can appear child-like; coins are for women – but it’s a look that would surely appeal to any female between the ages of 18 and 80. Depending on her choice of Coin Keeper (Emozioni’s term for the outer pendant case which holds the jewelled disk) and particularly that coin itself, the look can switch from casual to chic. Whether a faceted single-colour ‘jewel’, one sparkling with CZ stones or an openwork design in silver plate, it’s a simple, yet effective accessory. Curb or belcher chains of varying lengths further add to the versatility. Research has also shown Hot Diamonds, initially at least, that the coin concept could

Hot Diamonds today • The brand is sold in 18 countries across the world and during 2012-13 it added six key global distribution channels • It is sold on 20 airlines including BA, Etihad, Qantus, US Airways, Japanese Airlines and Korean Airlines. • It is also sold in all the major UK airports and is expanding its ground duty free presence worldwide during 2013-14 • In 2012-13 Hot Diamonds’ sales increased by 22% on 2011-12

“The use of sterling silver would also restrict dramatically the aesthetic variety that could be offered at a competitive price point and this would work to reduce the lifetime-value perceived by the consumer.”

meet customer resistance on the grounds of cost. Which is why the company chose to offer coins made with silver plate rather than silver. “Silver would dramatically increase the price of the coins – well outside the ‘sweet spot’ which ensures the collection is a long-term success,” says Cresswell.

by further coins should ensure that aspect, aided and abetted by a coin ‘wish list’ stamped by the retailer. Of course a new brand wouldn’t be a cohesive whole without the requisite lifestyle imagery (already a Hot Diamonds speciality) and so Emozioni has its own particular marketing support material. The image of the sultry model presenting her Azure coin to the camera was shot by internationally renowned and sought-after photographer Graeme Montgomery – a man with more luxury brand campaigns under his belt than you can shake a stick at. Each season will see a new campaign accompanied by an audiovisual advert, available to all Emozioni stockists. And to make sure that as many consumers as possible know about the coin story, Hot Diamonds will email all their customers within a 15 mile radius of every new stockist – that’s typically 5,000 loyal Hot Diamond consumers per retailer.

Protecting against any such negative connotations is clearly pretty important and it is where the brand’s launch offer comes in. “One of the key barriers to selling the concept occurs when consumers calculate the full price of buying into the collection by adding the cost of the holder, chain and coin together,” says Cresswell. The answer he says lies in one of Emozioni’s four launch packs. With a saving of just under £50 the consumer can buy keeper, chain, coin and jewellery box for £89.99. “To defend the retailer’s margin we take a hit on our own and it makes the sale much easier for the retailer while kickstarting the consumer into collecting Emozioni,” Cresswell adds. The empty recesses, waiting to be filled

The Voice of the Industry 39

| Feature

Pawnbroking for beginners In this final look at pawnbroking within the jewellery retail, we speak to Simon Johnson of Marmalade in Chiswick, who is about to offer this service to his customers. When did you start to consider offering a pawnbroking service? We were fortunate enough to be introduced to the idea of pawn broking by the NAG’s EDF group meeting last year around June. We had a presentation by a pawnbroking consultant who explained how it works and the pros and cons for our business. What led to the decision? Over the course of the meeting it became apparent that my previous prejudices weren't justified and that it could – with a bit of tweaking – really offer my clients a good additional service benefit in a nice environment, especially in the current economic climate. Did you canvas the opinion of your staff? I think that in order for this to work my entire team has to be educated to the pros and cons, see the benefit to the business and how they can help the new programme move forward. We have had a day’s training in store so they could see the mechanics of the business and they have gone on a mystery shopping day in London to see other high end pawnbrokers work. We then had a brain storming session over a glass of wine in order to figure out how to explain about the service within the image and brand of Marmalade. What about your customers? We haven't asked our customers, but we don’t plan to change our store or other services one bit – most of my clients would not know about the service until they need it. I don’t intend to be a ‘cash for gold’ type business and I hope that my team and I can offer our clients who are looking to realise

40 The Jeweller April 2013

their assets an alternative that means in six months they still own their valuable item. What are the pros as you see them? A viable alternative for our clients to raise short term finance without committing to selling their item well below the current market value. It’s also a great return on investment, returning about 100 per cent per year, which in today's market is pretty good. And what are the cons (what concerns do you have)? Obviously we are concerned about security, but intend not to hold much cash on the premises, we will definitely take a lot of ID and ask relevant questions in order to deter any nefarious types. We are a bit nervous about making the loan to value offer right, but are all experienced in the jewellery trade so I don’t see that as too much of a problem. It costs

about £5,000 to set up with all the software, hardware, training and literature but a loan of that amount in the first year will cover that. How will you market the service to customers? We intend to go softly softly at first to find our feet. We are going to join the NPA which means we will appear on their website and we’ll have a page on our website and some POS in store. I'm hoping the majority of our new business will come from word of mouth and a well-educated and motivated team. What do you need out of your POS system to get this up and running? At this stage I don’t honestly know. Legally you have to have accredited software, a license, some money to lend and insurance. Hopefully we’ll find the rest out as we go.

Bransom’s Pawnbroking Buy-in and Cheque Cashing modules seamlessly integrates into its Retail Stock Management, Customer Relationship Management and EPOS systems. The latest modules have been developed with the same care and attention to detail so are easy to use, fast and very flexible. Key points are: • The modules are also available on their own for those with dedicated businesses or who do not want an integrated system initially. • Simple and configurable data entry screens tailored to your requirements • Documents that you can change or format to your liking and print on standard A4 paper. • Business potential enhanced by utilising your customer database as a relationship management system with mailing, email and text messaging capabilities. • Unredeemed pledges can be put into the BSMART retail stock system, scrapped or auctioned and the pledge updated when sold. • Multiples can have live updates across the stores of customer details and transactions in order to assess someone’s credentials. • Compliant with all current legislation and NPA approved documentation.

| Antique Jewellery

Antique JEWELLERY Ancient China Amy Oliver reveals the history and many significances of gems and jewellery revered by the ancient Chinese people his month, I’ve chosen to look at a culture with a very different jewellery background from many of the others I have previously written about. Ancient China – which was of course geographically vast and spanned an enormous amount of time – has an intriguing jewellery history that can tell us an awful lot about the spirituality, culture and social hierarchy of the society. Archaeological finds from the Neolithic in China (5,000 BC) have uncovered pendants made from bone, and from 3,000 BC there is evidence of polished stone such as


jade beads used as pendants and other threaded jewellery. First, let’s take a look at some of the materials used in Chinese jewellery in general.

Jade Gemstones, as with other cultures, were often attributed with special powers (such as healing or bringing good luck) and spiritual meanings. However, the utter reverence for certain gemstones in ancient China, which even affects the culture of modern-day China, is truly fascinating.

Han jade burial suit by Gary Lee Todd, Ph.D., Professor of History, Sias International University, Xinzheng, Henan, China.

42 The Jeweller April 2013

Jade cicada

The most prominent and revered of these gems was jade (nephrite and jadeite). In use from around 3,000 BC onwards, jade was thought to encapsulate ‘Doa’ or ‘Tao’ – a philosophy meaning ‘the way/path’, which is considered both the essence and manifestation of the universe. Jade was described by ancient Chinese philosophers as “the concrete expression of both earthly and spiritual power”. The most sought after jade was ‘mutton fat’ jade or white jade, believed to be the most pure and perfect form of the stone. Jade’s appearance and

Antique Jewellery | properties meant the list of qualities attributed to it was extensive. It represented truth, loyalty, dignity, grace, beauty, morality, ceremony, charity of heart, duty, music (as it made a clear and lasting note when struck), the earth, and even the heavens above. In fact, according to legend, Heaven itself was made of jade and gold (gold was the second most important material after jade). Jade was used for making a variety of objects, such as crockery, hairpins, headdresses, jewellery, and even weapons. It was also used in burials. There are many examples of jade figurines buried with people; a popular motif being the jade cicada, which represented immortality. During the Han Dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD), it became customary for royalty and the nobility to be buried in funerary suits made of up of thousands of thin squares of jade, sewn together with threads of precious metal depending on social rank: the emperors had gold thread, the emperor’s consorts, princess and feudal lords had silver thread and the emperor’s sisters, other family and nobles had copper thread.

Other Gemstones Another gemstone which was almost as highly revered as jade was red coral. Arriving mainly into China from Sri Lanka and Iran along the Silk Road, red coral was very expensive and used only by officials of the court to indicate their positions, top ranking elites and royalty. It was associated with auspiciousness, high rank (hence it’s use by court officials), virtue and longevity. It was also associated with good luck and menstruation for women. Other gemstones which came via the Silk Road included lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, and amber from Burma and the Baltic region. Amber was very expensive and highly prized as it was very rare in China. As with coral, it symbolised longevity as it came from longlived pine trees. There is also an ancient Chinese legend which claims that amber is the fossilised heart of a tiger and it therefore also represented courage. Turquoise was often used in jewellery as it represented the water below, sky above, and air around. It was thought to make the wearer invincible to evil forces. Pearls played a very important role in ancient Chinese jewellery and freshwater pearls were used most often. They were

Example of a kingfisher feather inlaid

thought to symbolise purity and preciousness, so are most associated with women’s jewellery. Apparently, pearls could even be used to pay taxes in lieu of money.

Interesting Jewellery As in the other cultures we have looked at so far, bodily adornment was incredibly important (it determined social class and rank) and much of the jewellery we associate as common – such as rings, earrings, necklaces – were used in ancient China by people from all social classes. However, these types of jewellery were not the most important for indicating social standing and the ones that were, were not what we would expect. For women, hair ornaments in the form of pins, combs and hair pendants were the major jewellery items. Not only did they indicate wealth and social standing, but they symbolised womanhood; every girl at the age of 15 was given her first hairpin as a ‘coming of age’ right. Hair was considered a great mark of beauty in ancient China, and was often the subject of poetry and art. Therefore over the millennia women’s hairstyles became evermore elaborate and a culture of increasingly ornate hair jewellery developed. Some of the earliest hairpins date to the Shang Dynasty (1,700-1,050 BC) and

were made of bone. Later, metals became more prominent, and there are many examples of hairpins and combs in silver – and in copper as a cheaper alternative. However, during the Han Dynasty (206 BC – 220 AD) and beyond, gold seems to have become more popular for hairpins, but only for wealthy or noble women and royalty. Many of them were made using the techniques of filigree, punching and piercing, giving rise to highly detailed work. Some were decorated with gemstones such as jade, agate, quartz crystal, red coral, pearl or turquoise and displayed animal motifs. Hair pendants called ‘buyao’ were a kind of hairpin with movable pendants in a floral, dragon or phoenix design. They would constantly be moving, creating a stunning visual affect against the hair (‘buyao’ literally means ‘shake as you go’!). Quite unique to China was the use of blue kingfisher feathers in head ornaments. Their vivid and vibrant electric blue colour was highly prized and celebrated in poetry and art. The technique of inlaying the feathers, usually on silver or vermeil, was called ‘tian-tsui’, which means ‘dotting with kingfishers’. Still to this day hair jewellery remains a crucial part of traditional Chinese dress.

The Voice of the Industry 43

| Antique Jewellery For men, belt hooks and belt buckles were the most important pieces of body ornamentation. Belt hooks came to China from the nomadic peoples in north and west hinterlands before the 3rd century BC. They were often cast of bronze and were used to hold up belts which carried weapons. Less commonly they could be made of silver and occasionally gold and many of the more fine pieces were inlayed with the favourite stone, jade. They were often cast in the shape of animals associated with hunting, such as horses or mules, or mythical beasts such as dragons. Belt buckles were favoured from the 2nd century AD, and were decorated in much the same way as the belt hooks had been. Belt buckles in fact became a necessary part of dress for high ranking men or those in office. Like the Roman bulla discussed in my earlier Roman jewellery article (The Jeweller p58 October 2012), young Chinese boys were also given a type of talisman at birth in the shape of a lock made of jade, silver or gold. This was meant to protect the child against death by ‘locking’ or securing them to earth so they couldn’t be taken into the afterlife. All levels of society would follow this tradition, the poorer people having to club together with up to 100 other families to afford a talisman.

Symbolic Designs The designs, as much as the materials used in jewellery, had significance. Animal and floral motifs were popular, both real and mythological. Dragons are usually the first creatures that spring to mind when we think of mythical Chinese creatures. The dragon symbolised both power and good luck, and was generally associated with masculinity. Phoenixes are more feminine, and hence were a popular design for head ornaments, representing again good fortune and righteousness. Insects were common designs, as we have seen with the jade cicada carvings for burials. Butterflies were very popular, and red coral was often used to represent their bodies. Bats, too, were often made of coral for jewellery. Unlike in the west, bats in ancient China were seen as an animal of happiness, health, wealth, serenity, virtue and long life. It is reported that buttons made of jade in the shape of bats were attached to baby clothes by their mothers in the hope that the baby would have a long and prosperous life. Floral designs were also incredibly popular and peony most of all. It was called the ‘king of flowers’, and symbolised wealth, good fortune and high social standing. The iconic Chinese los flower stood for harmony and well-being.

Obviously, I’ve given a very brief overview of the most prominent features of ancient Chinese jewellery and its meaning. The depth and breadth of the subject has been, I have to say, quite overwhelming. It’s definitely one for further study if this article has whetted your appetite… References • Chinese Art: A Guide to Motifs and Visual Imagery By Patricia Bjaaland Welch, 2008. • Ancient China, DK Ltd, 2006 • Ancient Chinese Art: The Ernest Erickson Collection in the Metropolitan By Maxwell K. Hearn, 1987 • en/32Arts12188.html • pearl-history-mythology.php • • • 2011-03/04/content_12117681.htm • html/en/15Traditions1040.html 

Bronze belt hook inlaid with gold, Western Han Dynasty (202 BC- 9 AD), Freer and Sackler Galleries, Washington D.C, USA

44 The Jeweller April 2013

| Regular


extraordinary woman was the ‘empress of fashion’ in New York as fashion columnist and editor at Harpers Bazaar and Vogue, advising and inspiring the likes of Jackie Kennedy, as well as professionals and her adoring readers. This biography has been described as ‘a tasty and erudite study of a complicated woman’.

Treasures of the Habsburgs, by Sophie Haag and Franz Kirchweger £45.00, Thames & Hudson The House of Habsburg was one of the wealthiest dynasties in Europe and its members were renowned as avid collectors and patrons of the arts. Their passion for magnificence is beautifully illustrated in this book which features around 150 masterpieces from the collections. Fine metalwork, weird and wonderful objects, mechanical marvels and the famous Saliera salt cellar are among the treasures which

attest to the dominance of the Habsburgs as well as their lasting artistic legacy. The book marks the re-opening of Vienna’s Kunsthistorisches Museum Collection of Sculpture and Decorative Arts following extensive renovation. Diana Vreeland – Empress of Fashion, by Amanda Mackenzie Stuart £19.95, Thames & Hudson Not, strictly-speaking, a book about gems, but certainly a book about a life of style, rare taste and originality (and one that featured a significant amount of jewellery). For 50 years this

Exceptional Jewellery by Charo Gonzalez Y Santiero & Jorge Margolles £22.99, The Pepin Press ( A combination of still-life and lifestyle photography, accompanied by interviews, showcases the works of 30 international, contemporary jewellery designers. Some pieces are highly conceptual – such as the origami-like jewellery by Nel Linssen – others, like Helen Barton’s are sweetly quirky, or perhaps inspired by nature. All have an experimental approach to materials.

Sales & Exhibitions

work of contemporary goldsmith Giovanni Corvaja with 14th and 15th century Italian gold-ground devotional paintings.

An updated look for this, the most exclusive and extensive exhibition for the watch and jewellery market. Around 1,800 key international brands show – many using the event to launch new lines. See p22 for a full preview.

31st-2nd July: Ultra Vanities, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London EC2 A private exhibition of finely wrought, enamelled and bejewelled make-up boxes from the 20s to the 70s – the ‘Age of Glamour’.

May 12th-14th: Pulse: Earls Court, London Design-led gifts, including fashion jewellery.

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

April Currently-2nd November, 2013 Studio Silver Today, Erddig House, Wrexham, North Wales Showcasing the work of silversmith Rauni Higson, as well as her workbench complete with tools and equipment. Higson will be ‘artist in residence’ on specified Saturdays. May 2nd-6th: Desire. RHS Wisley Gardens, Nr Woking. A Craft in Focus event selling the works of contemporary jewellery makers. 2nd-31st: Gold: Status and Glory – Masterpieces from the Middle Ages and Today, Moretti Fine Art, 2a-6 Ryder St, London SW1 A collaboration between the gallery and art dealer Adrian Sassoon to celebrate the timeless allure of gold and juxtaposes the

46 The Jeweller April 2013

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs April 19th-22nd: Malaysia International Jewellery Festival, Kuala Lumpar Convention Centre Around 200 traders from over 20 countries showcasing gems, fine jewellery and costume jewellery. 25th-2nd May: BaselWorld, Basel, Switzerland

18th-22nd: VicenzaOro Spring, Fiera di Vicenza, Italy Highlighting the fusion between jewellery and fashion with exhibitors offering everything from fine gold and platinum jewellery, to coloured stone, silver and costume jewellery. 31st-3rd June: JCK Las Vegas Over 2,500 exhibitors from 22+ countries, grouped into 20 product areas from fine jewellery to services and supplies.


THE IRV CERTIFICATE OF APPRAISAL THEORY (CAT) TEACHES THE THEORY OF HOW TO VALUE. It is a modular programme with a self learning approach that teaches the basic theory, methodologies and good working practices needed to become a competent jewellery valuer. Three detailed modules of study support the syllabus on this 6-12 month programme. The Certificate of Appraisal Theory will be awarded to those who complete the six assignments and who reach the minimum standard required in the theory examination. This programme is suitable for anyone with a desire to learn best valuation practice and is one of the pre-requisites required for entrance into the NAG Institute of Registered Valuers. For more information on CAT please contact our IRV Co-ordinator Sandra Page Tel/fax: 029 2081 3615 Email: N.A.G.’s Institute of Registered Valuers, 27 River Glade, Gwaelod-y-garth, Cardiff, CF15 9SP

| NAG News: Education & Training

Greenough and Gemstone Award winners announced Winners of the coveted Greenough Trophy and NAG Gemstone Award were announced at the NAG’s Presentation of Awards ceremony at Goldsmiths Hall. s ever, the prestigious Greenough Trophy is given to the student with the highest overall marks in the Professional Jewellers Diploma JET 2 course. The winner of this year’s award was Anna Coppock of Payne & Sons in Oxford. Anna who has previously been featured in The Jeweller as one of the winners of the Bransom JET 1 Project Award has now trumped her competitors once more by taking home the Greenough Trophy.


Anna Coppock, Greenough Trophy winner

On receiving the award she said: “It was a great honour to be awarded the Greenough Trophy in tonight’s ceremony. I found out this evening that it’s not awarded every year, so to have it bestowed upon me this year is a great honour.” Anna went on to say: “It’s given me so much more confidence with customers and my day to day work around the store. My knowledge on particular subjects has increased dramatically, and that has made me more comfortable in approaching customers, imparting my knowledge and making sales. “I hope the award will open up more opportunities in the future and I’d like to thank my employer Payne & Sons who put me through the course and funded this opportunity for me. I’d also like to thank my friends and family who put up with me while I was doing it!” At the same time, the NAG also gave an accolade to the student who’d achieved the highest score in the Professional Jewellers Gemstone Diploma. What makes this award even more special for 2013 is the fact that this is the last time the Gemstone

Award is to be awarded as the course came to a close in 2012. The winner, Thomas Sinclair from Michael Jones Jewellers in Northampton, said he was “especially proud to have been presented with the award in its last year. I was really pleased to pass the exam and this evening’s been very much a highlight. I was just pleased to have the opportunity to do the course, so to win this award is really unexpected.” Thomas noted that his biggest challenge was to take the gemstone course while also

Thomas Sinclair, Gemstone Award winner

being colour blind. “I did the JET 2 award before and I received very high marks,” said Thomas.. “I think the fact that I came so close to winning the Greenough Trophy before spurred me on to try and win an award this year,” he explained. The Association would like to congratulate both Anna and Thomas on their hard work – and wish them all the best in all their future work and studies.

Award ceremony showcases Goldsmiths’ ‘growing talent’ he Jeweller is always on the look-out for new talent and it just so happened that at this year’s Presentation of Awards we found one of the NAG’s secret stars in the making. Amy Duggan, who picked up a Bransom Award for her outstanding JET 1 project also happened to be exhibiting her latest handcrafted jewellery as part of the Goldsmiths’ Growing Talent exhibition which took place at the Goldsmiths’ Hall recently. Amy, who works for Pyke & Sons in Shewsbury, was exhibiting as part of a private viewing ahead of the exhibition in


48 The Jeweller April 2013

mid-April. She explained how she’d “won a bursary at the 2009 Goldsmiths’ Fair and as part of that got to be part of this exhibition.” Although she is humble about how this is a first step, she notes how “having [my] work exhibited at The Goldsmiths’ Hall at the same time as attending the presentation evening for NAG awards made for a very exciting week for me and was another highlight in my career.” Amy went on to say: “My passion for jewellery covers its theory, history, design and manufacture and I thoroughly enjoy sharing

my new knowledge learned on JET1 with customers and clients. I am committed to learning more, alongside designing my own work, and hope I can contribute further to the jewellery industry as my career grows.” We’ll be keeping up with Amy’s progress in further issues of The Jeweller – so watch this space!

NAG News: Education & Training | Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (P.J. Dip) – Pass with Distinction Surname




Greenough Trophy winner Coppock Anna Catherine


Payne & Son




Picketts & Pursers






Michelle Jane






Allum & Sidaway


Leanne Jane


Sarah Layton


Carina Christi-Ann


W E Watts




Barry Bott


Stuart James


Martin & Co



Dublin, Ireland

Weir & Sons



Lytham St Annes




Douglas Jacobs




David The Jeweller






Lyndsay Megan








Sally Elizabeth



Elizabeth Tracey






A R Whibley & Son





Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (P.J. Dip) – Pass: Grade A Surname





Lynette Elizabeth


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Lister Horsfell




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Joanna Kate


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Martin Wilkinson








Harvey & Thompson




Allum & Sidaway







Gold and Platinum Studio




Lister Horsfell


Michelle Donna


Kemps of Bridgwater



High Wycombe





J S Gray


Thomas Anthony


Francis & Gaye


Hannah Amy




Laura Aimee


Francis & Gaye



Dublin, Ireland

Bernard John




Hester Clarke

The Voice of the Industry 49

| NAG News: Education & Training Laskowska


St. Helier





S S Milton



Burton-on Trent

Judith Hart








Harriet Kelsall




Upchurch & Son




Herbert Brown








John Pass


Dominic Mathew


Bell Brothers


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Jenny Russell


E J Gallichan & Co


Laura Ann





Wexford, Ireland

John Rattigan


Anneka Jane














Herbert Brown




Young George


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Crouch the Goldsmiths


Cassie Tricia






Connard & Son


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The Gold Shop


Lyndsey Elizabeth






Nash & Company




Payne & Son




D M Robinson




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Philip John


E J Gallichan

The tutors: (L-R) Eddie Stanley, Mark Houghton, Don Taylor, Anthony Sibley, Mary Garland and Michelle McCormick.

50 The Jeweller April 2013

NAG News: Education & Training |

Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (P.J. Dip) – Pass: Grade B Surname











Hugh Rice


Stevie Anne





Albemarle & Bond


Jaime Marie


Peter Jackson


Alexandra Dominika






Albemarle & Bond




Fraser Hart




Harvey & Thompson




Harvey & Thompson




Herbert Brown




George Tarratt


Janine Ann





Co. Meath, Ireland

Weir & Sons


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Harvey & Thompson


Erin Cealach


Harvey & Thompson


Alex James


Alex John




Upchurch & Son




Hugh Rice






Kelly Joanne






John R Fox








John R Fox




J J Rudell


Victoria Kate


Albemarle & Bond


Gemma Louise



The Voice of the Industry 51

| NAG News: Education & Training


Jade Louise


Albemarle & Bond



Bury St Edmonds





Winsor Bishop









Karen Tieno






Albemarle & Bond


Abdul Mohid




Claire Louise


Albemarle & Bond




David M Robinson







Lytham St Annes















Albemarle & Bond


Ben Thomas






Clive Ranger


Jane Melissa


Upchurch & Son




The Money Shop








Arthur Read


Claire Louise






Terence Lett


Emma Louise


Ian Rigby






Luke Alexander


Horrocks & Webb






Grahame John








Luke Arthur John

Hemel Hempstead

Fish Bros

52 The Jeweller April 2013

NAG News: Education & Training | Stevens



T H Baker & Co


Kelly Jane


Harvey & Thompson


Olivia Jayne


Fraser Hart






Emma Jane






Nicholas Wylde Goldsmith


Jennifer Marie


Terence Lett




David M Robinson




Harvey & Thompson


Natalie Anne


Albemarle & Bond








Mark Worthington




The Loss Management Group

Professional Jewellers’ Gemstone Diploma (P.J. Gem. Dip) – Pass with Distinction Surname


The Gemstone Award winner Sinclair Thomas James




Michael Jones

Professional Jewellers’ Gemstone Diploma (P.J. Gem. Dip) – Pass: Grade A Surname





Emma Louise


Picketts & Pursers


Mandy Jane


Fraser Hart




Michael Jones

Professional Jewellers’ Gemstone Diploma (P.J. Gem. Dip) – Pass: Grade B Surname







Baker Bros


Deborah Lorraine

Kings Lynn

David Auker Jewellery




Reginald Davis








Amelia Louise


Michael Jones









The Voice of the Industry 53

| NAG News: Education & Training

Professional Jewellers’ Management Diploma (P.J. Man. Dip) – Pass Surname





James Anthony


Fraser Hart


Bosun Lanre











Claire Ellen




Rachel Lisa






Richard Sinton


Lydia Mae





Cork, Ireland

John Neville


Kay Frances


Wm Pyke & Sons


Carla Patricia dos Reis






Harvey & Thompson



East Grinstead

W Major & Sons

Institute of Registered Valuers Fellows (FIRVs) Surname







John H Lunn

Certificate of Appraisal Theory (CAT) 2012 – Pass Surname







Joanna Hardy








Fellows & Sons





54 The Jeweller April 2013


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| Regular


Last Word This month we throw the NAG’s new CEO, Michael Rawlinson in at the deep end by subjecting him to the probing and revealing interrogation that is The Last Word Personal Profile Michael joins the jewellery industry from the world of video games – in 2009 he was appointed director general of UKIE, the Association for UK Interactive Entertainment. In that role he oversaw all aspects of UKIE’s work, championing the needs of that industry. More recently Michael was appointed as the videogames industry’s representative on the executive board of the UK Council for Child Internet Safety and is also vice chairman of the Alliance Against IP Theft. Who has been the biggest influence on your life? My Mother. My father died when I was six and I’m so grateful to my mother who worked tirelessly to bring my brother and me up. She gave me strong values especially mutual respect and determination, a positive work ethic and, above all else, honesty. Your favourite holiday destination? I love to travel to France. I enjoy wine, particularly a good bottle of Bordeaux, and the French do have a special way with food. What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others? I think – detailed, friendly and action orientated. Others say – approachable, reliable and optimistic. Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? Study for formal qualifications. Last year I took time out to obtain a Level 7 certificate in Leadership and Management. It was a rewarding experience that equipped me with solid theory to back up all of the practical learning and experience I have gained in my working life so far.

58 The Jeweller April 2013

Early days of course, but what are your first impressions of our jewellery industry? So far I think it is like the NAG – steeped in history and heritage, and yet evolving and modernising. The people I have met so far are friendly and approachable, willing to help and inform me. The last film you saw at the cinema? Skyfall with a special Q&A with Javier Bardem, the villain Silva. As a member of BAFTA I am very fortunate to be invited to view a large number of films ahead of the voting session. I enjoyed this latest Bond, particularly because of the references to previous Bond films and the outing of the beautiful Aston Martin DB5. Tell us something surprising about you? I have performed as a member of a boy band in a video games industry spoof video. It’s on YouTube if you want to try and find it! I loved the singing, but the dance routine was a real challenge. To what do you attribute your success? An attention to detail with a focus and desire to get the job done. I am a practical person, so having thought things through I want to roll up my sleeves and get things done.

Favourite shopping destination? Why? Singapore. It is a shoppers’ paradise with lots of malls and stores open late. Every conceivable brand, product and style is available, and everywhere is air conditioned. They have many interesting shirt designs which are my weakness as I like to wear something a bit different. If not this one, what might your alternative career have been? After completing my A-levels my original intention was to be a quantity surveyor. I am really glad I didn’t pursue that choice as I’ve had the opportunity to work in so many different industries and roles. I have served in a shop, sold sheds and greenhouses, worked in glazing and run UKIE. Do you Tweet? If so, how often? I love to tweet and you can follow me at mikerawly. I regularly tweet about personal as well as work topics of course. I find Twitter is a great way to keep up to date with what is happening. What is your chosen form of exercise? I enjoy rowing in the gym. Half an hour is enough to get my heart pumping, and I find the rhythm strangely hypnotic. I like to set mini targets then strive to achieve or better the goal. Quick Fire • Red or white wine? RED • TV or radio? TV • Jewellery on men? Yes or No? YES • Delegator or control freak? Both depending on the situation • Beatles or Rolling Stones? Beatles – I know loads of the lyrics to their songs. • Paperback or e-reader? I am a techie, but you cannot beat a paperback book on the beach.


inspired by arctic beauty

V is it o u r we b s ite to se e the full B ERING collect i on: www. b eri ngt i m e. com

Jeweller April 2013  
Jeweller April 2013  

jeweller april 2013