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Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

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IJL 2010 in-depth preview Green Street – East London’s jewellery quarter Hot Diamonds ten years on The Jeweller is produced in conjunction with the British Jewellers’ Association

The Voice of The Industry


Contents |

the

Jeweller The Voice of The Industry

www.thejewellermagazine.com

Communiqué

4

Editor’s Letter

7

Industry News

10

NAG News

26

Member of the Month

28

of the new collections and new brand image

BJA News

31

from Hot Diamonds.

BJA Designer Profile

32

Opinion: John Henn

36

BJA Autumn Fair Update

68

Ethical

70

on what to see, where to go and who to visit at IJL 2010.

Insurance Matters

74

This includes highlights of key launches, a first look

Notebook

78

at new talent and a preview of some of the many

Antique Jeweller

80

jewellery service companies who will be at the event.

Education & Training

86

Letters

90

IRV Review

92

Belinda Morris visits Green Street, London’s

Appointments

95

undiscovered jewellery quarter

Display Cabinet

96

The Last Word

98

C O N T E N T S

A U G / S E P T

1 0

Company Profile

34

Just ahead of its unveiling at IJL, we get a preview

Stand and Deliver

40

Before the show goes on – we give you the low-down

East End Promise

Ethical – Taken into Custody

62

70

The Jeweller is published by CUBE Publishing on behalf of the National Association of Goldsmiths for circulation to members. For further information about The Jeweller please visit: www.thejewellermagazine.com

The important, but complex, issue of Chain of

The magazine is printed on paper and board that has met acceptable environmental accreditation standards.

Custody is unravelled by Michael Hoare

The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG

In conjunction with International Jewellery London 5th - 8th September 2010 Earls Court London www.jewellerylondon.com

Sales Director: Ian Francis Tel: 020 7833 5500

Tel: 020 7613 4445

ian@cube-uk.com

www.jewellers-online.org

Art Director: Ben Page

Editor: Belinda Morris

ben@cube-uk.com

Tel: 01692 538007

Cover Image

CUBE Publishing

bmorris@colony.co.uk

Publisher: Neil Oakford neil@cube-uk.com

BJA Marketing & PR Manager Lindsey Straughton

Contributors:

lindsey.straughton@bja.org.uk

John Henn

Tel: 0121 237 1110

Jo Young

Although every effort is made to ensure that the information supplied is accurate, the NAG disclaims and/or does not accept liability for any loss, damage or claim whatsoever that may result from the information given. Information and ideas are for guidance only and members should always consult their own professional advisers. The publisher accepts no responsibility for any advertiser, advertisement or insert in The Jeweller. Anyone having dealings with any advertiser must rely on their own enquiries.

The Voice of the Industry 3


| Comment

Communiqué M I C H A E L

H O A R E ’ S

Our CEO falls under the spell of Mary Portas and her high hopes for British retail, takes breakfast with a Baroness and ponders the future of crime prevention.

Retail – The New Gardening? ave you noticed how telly seizes on a theme like a dog with a favourite toy – mauling and shaking it until it falls to bits despite pleas to stop! Examples are legion, and include long running obsessions with cash in the attic; location, location, location; and fashion fixes. It seems that no television executive worth his salt can resist jumping onto a bandwagon. It all started with the sainted Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen slapping paint about, then Charlie Dimmock insisted we have a water feature, then they ramped up the aggression with Gordon Ramsay. The process goes on repeating itself; think of a theme, find an ‘expert’ and some ‘victims’ to be made over, and bingo you’ve got yourself a series. Interiors, gardens, food, frocks – the only thing that appeared to have escaped until now was shops. Despite flirtations with retail, nobody had really done shops justice until Mary Portas came along. Now we have High Street Dreams, and Mary Queen of Shops vying for attention, with the latter casting Portas in the Ramsay role. Do I detect a new theme emerging? Not that I’m complaining. Make-over shows are a guilty pleasure, made more intense in this case by some subject knowledge, and the opportunity to sit in judgement

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4 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

over the hapless victims from the safety of an arm chair. For small shop proprietors there may be the frisson of recognition that all is not rosy in one’s own garden, and perhaps a fresh determination to sort things out. What Mary Portas brings to the table is the detachment of the consultant, who is able to make owners see their business as others see them. Now she is bringing that same detachment to retailers through a series of training workshops. So it was that I found myself, one morning in July, one of a party perched atop the shell of the Westfield shopping centre being built alongside the Olympic village. As locations go, a pop-up restaurant made of scaffolding

boards and plastic sheeting, on top of a building site, is hard to beat for theatrical impact. And that, I suppose, was the point, for we were there to witness Mary Portas launch a new workshop venture, which is to be rolled out via Skillsmart retail skills shops. The point was well made, and I cannot question the principle objective of fighting back against ‘homogeneity’. I too “don’t want to live in a world of bland faceless retailing”. Unquestionably, Laurence, Charlie, and Gordon have given their respective sectors a welcome shot in the arm, and none of us will ever take interiors, gardens or restaurants for granted again. Paint and decking manufacturers rubbed their hands in glee, and the nation has never spent more on eating out. If the Mary Portas effect shines on small retailers, so much the better! If Britain’s shoppers realise that they are surrendering their high streets to multiples’ ‘cut and paste’ shopping solutions, and small retailers can regain their vision and professionalism, so much the better. Mary Portas is a skilled retailer, marketer, and visionary, of that there is no doubt, but why must it take a make-over show to shake us out of our torpor and come face to face with the age old disciplines of retailing – knowledge, service, experience and vision? Come to think of it, would it make members flock to the EDF if Mike McGraw was a redhead and wore high heels? Maybe not!

Stand Aside – I’m a Politician f that hasn’t turned your stomach then I should tell you a story involving food – a Parliamentary breakfast to be precise. The sort of event that attracts trade association types, prepared to get up at the crack of dawn, and go through security checks in exchange for an eight a.m. fried breakfast and the chance to rub shoulders with politicians. At one such event I attended in June, the

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Mary Portas launching the new workshop venture at the Olympic Village


Comment | guest speaker was Baroness Wilcox, Parliamentary under Secretary for State, and government spokesperson for the Dept. for Business, Innovation and Skills. After a brief speech on the politician’s role, which is apparently to “create the right conditions for business – then stand back”, the Baroness took questions. Conceding with refreshing candour that only three weeks into the job she was ill-equipped to deal with details, she agreed to respond in writing to a number of questions, including “what measures will the government take to assist SME businesses?” The written answer, when it came, included the note that ‘by the end of 2010 businesses will be able to gain free and easy access to all new central government tender documents for contracts over £10,000.’ This is significant news for all jewellers wishing to tender for the supply of civil servants’ retirement gold watches, for which there could be big demand this year. But let’s hope the politicians respond in time to make a saving on the VAT!

Strained to Breaking Point ’ve enjoyed a lot of hospitality this month in one way or another, most recently the kind invitation from the CMJ Buying Group to attend its meeting in Birmingham, at which the guest speaker was Gabby Tolkovsky. For those of you who were there, and noticed I declined lunch, the explanation is that conferences and Mrs H’s excellent cooking are beginning to take their toll. So a Sunday seemed an excellent day to fast, and perhaps get in some belt-tightening practice. If I felt at all light-headed during Michael Allchin’s excellent afternoon presentation it was down to hunger rather than the parlous state of the gold market. I’m afraid I had exercised no such restraint at the Houlden Buying Group’s equally excellent event a few weeks previous, where top of the bill speaker Gerald Ratner came up with a memorable line to describe the debacle precipitated by his infamous remark: “I thought long and hard about my position – and then I decided to panic!” I know that feeling all too well! There was no panic in the eyes of Sir Paul Stephenson QPM, Commissioner of the Metropolitan Police Service; guest speaker at the British Security Industry Association luncheon, delineating his top five challenges. Counter terrorism; a safe and secure Olympics; serious and organised crime and serious youth crime were at the top of his list, and lurking at the bottom were what he termed ‘fiscal challenges’. Given Sir Paul reckoned further terrorist attempts inevitable – and he calculated there are 6,000 organised crime groups, involving about 38,000 people in the UK – he appeared remarkably upbeat. Perhaps he was basking in that day’s statistics showing a 37 percent reduction in crime over the preceding year. The future of crime prevention lies in public and private sector sharing information and intelligence according to the Commissioner; thus reinforcing our decision to establish SaferGems. My dining companion, a retired cop with twenty-eight years service behind him, put it more pithily, “Not easy to make an upbeat speech, then go back to your office and slash 25 percent off your budget”. I guess we’ll be helping the police with their enquiries for some time to come!

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The Voice of the Industry 5


The affair starts here

IJL - Stand I108

Tel 01271 312025 Email sales@elodiecollections.com Web www.elodiecollections.com


Comment | This month:

Editor’s

Letter

“I’m drawn moth-like to the stands of inspirational jewellery designers, so I hope great numbers of retailers will also venture along to these areas…”

ell, are you getting excited? What do you mean “About what?” Tsk tsk… You might be

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blasé about an enormous space full of gems and jewellery, but personally I always get

a shiver of almost nervous excitement in the lead up to a major trade show. And especially at this time of year. It’s a bit like going back to school for the autumn term – uniform all pressed and tidy and a new pencil case in your satchel. And for the exhibitors at IJL next month, it must be a bit like hosting a party and wondering whether anyone’s going to turn up and when they do, will they like the music/nibbles/ other guests. Or is this just me? However you regard several days spent working the aisles, juggling budgets, networking, partying… there’s no question that we all have the most

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amazing array of treasure waiting for us at Earl’s Court – if the preview of new collections I’ve seen is anything to go by. The only problem I can foresee is not being able to see it all. I not only want to visit as many stands as I can and talk to as many of our readers as I can, I also want to attend some of the great-sounding seminars and discussions that the organisers have laid on. If you see a fraught-looking woman removing her heels and running across the hall… that’ll be me. I feel an invitation to attend an ethical talk could usefully be extended to Naomi Campbell. If ever there was a woman in need of educating! I appreciate that she is not, herself, on trial and that in 1997 she may not have known about blood diamonds (not many did), but the

“We made a conscious decision about who we wanted to attract as a consumer – to move away from the scatter gun effect”

level of crass ignorance and diva-like insensitivity she demonstrated in court, given the horrors connected with this case, was shocking. And another thing… she sounded quaintly old-fashioned when she said she received many gifts and is used to seeing diamonds that are shiny, in a box. Rather Eartha Kitt-ish. Modern women, who buy their own jewellery, would know where their stones came from. Or again, is that just me?

If you would like to comment on any of the issues raised in this edition of The Jeweller or any other trade-related matters please email the editor at: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Page 62

The Voice of the Industry 7


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| Industry News

Emagold UK to disband after this year’s IJL show magold UK, the group of British jewellery manufacturers dedicated to promoting high carat, high-quality jewellery, will be formally disbanded following IJL at Earls Court this September – where members will exhibit together for the last time. Emagold’s passing marks the end of an era in the promotion of high caratage gold jewellery. Emagold (The European Manufacturers’ Association) was established in 1992 with the support of the World Gold Council. Many manufacturers throughout Europe joined the group, principally to promote the use of higher carat gold jewellery at a time when the hallmarking system was under threat and the Emagold ‘Solar’ mark – a sun-like symbol stamped onto 18ct and 22ct jewellery alongside the hallmark – was being promoted as an alternative method of independently certified quality. At its peak, membership exceeded 120 companies in Italy, Spain, Portugal, France, Greece and the UK The World Gold Council withdrew its support several years ago and many of the European countries left Emagold as a result. However, in the UK a dedicated group of manufacturers and suppliers maintained their membership, using Emagold as a joint promotional tool to promote high calibre companies and jewellery. The group has exhibited together under the Emagold umbrella at UK trade fairs, manned a joint website and undertaken a number of

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major promotions and training initiatives, some in conjunction with the NAG. In 2003, for instance, Emagold staged a fashion show at IJL in conjunction with Make-A-Wish Foundation, the global charity that grants wishes to children with lifethreatening illnesses. TV personality Linda Lusardi helped to launch ten collections of 18ct gold jewellery – all on the wishbone theme – created by Emagold UK members. “It is with some sadness that we have decided that Emagold has had its day,” says its final chairman, Asa Harrison, UK sales director of Cookson Precious Metals. “It has provided a great talking shop for those of us who have belonged and has undoubtedly drawn some of the UK’s longest established and best recognised jewellery suppliers closer together. “The group began at a time when the market was dominated by sales of 9ct gold jewellery, which is very definitely no longer the case, and I like to think that Emagold’s legacy is that it undoubtedly helped to make retailers aware of the very real advantages of stocking higher carat, higher quality, gold jewellery.” One of the founder members of Emagold was Hean Studio. “One of the many benefits

reduced imports of poorly-made goods, and helped to sustain higher levels of quality manufacturing in the UK. “But time moves on and strategies change,” he adds. “There will continue to be dialogue and co-operation with regard to trade fairs, and I hope that we will from time

“I like to think that Emagold’s legacy is that it undoubtedly helped to make retailers aware of the very real advantages of stocking higher carat, higher quality, gold jewellery.‘ of being a part of the group was the sharing of commercial information; how each company was performing; what we felt were the trends and of course the combined marketing knowledge and experiences,” says Hean’s owner Apple Nooten-Boom. “The first direction was to establish a quality branding in a similar vein to the wool mark – unfortunately Emagold was too small an organisation to reach the critical mass required for that to succeed,” he continues. “It was such a pity, as the quality mark, independently applied could well have

10 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

Linda Lusardi modelling in an Emagold show at IJL 2003

to time get together like a business club and continue to share our knowledge and experience for the greater good.” Harrison agrees: “While Emagold may be no more, our members will of course continue to offer the highest possible quality and service and many of the close associations made will endure,” he says. The members of Emagold were Centre Jewellery, Cookson Precious Metals, Curteis, Domino, Euro Findings, The GW Group, Hean Studio, Saunders Shepherd and Stubbs & Co.


Industry News |

Italy launches first course in eco jewellery design taly’s largest technical university, the Politecnico di Milano will hold a first-ever international course in eco-sustainable jewellery design from 14th-19th March, 2011. The course is being organised in cooperation with CIBJO and the World Jewellery Confederation Education Foundation, which is the body established by CIBJO to advance the principles of Corporate Social Responsibility in the jewellery industry. The two-part course will be conducted in English and will cover the theory of ecosustainable jewellery with the second part being a hands-on workshop (28 hours). Instruction will be provided by lecturers from the design department of the Politecnico di Milano and world renowned experts in sustainable jewellery design, who will work

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together with the students on their practical assignments. A maximum of 30 students will be admitted to the course, and attendance will be mandatory in order to graduate. Applicants for the course should be first and second level graduates holding a high school-level diploma from an art school or goldsmith institute, or professional jewellers wishing to specialise in eco-sustainable jewellery design. Candidates will be accepted following an evaluation by the acceptance committee of their professional CV. The cost of the course is €1,000 plus 20 per cent VAT. A number of scholarships will be available, and in order to apply for one candidates should email their application forms and CVs to: formazione@polidesign.net by October 30th 2010.

S N I P P E T S DeWitt partners with Guards Polo Club Swiss watch brand DeWitt, together with its new UK distributor Linder Luxury, is the recently appointed official timing partner of Guards Polo Club. The three year partnership will include customised giant clocks around the Club’s playing field at Smith’s Lawn; a display of watches in the Clubhouse; the organisation of joint events and the development of two specially designed watches for gentlemen and ladies. To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Guards Polo Club’s historic Queen’s Cup this year DeWitt has designed two special commemorative watches. The gentlemen’s version is inspired by the Twenty-8-Twenty Tourbillion model, while the ladies’ model takes inspiration from the Dame de Pressy watch and is decorated with more than 460 diamonds. Accurist launch a charming watch collection

Argent of London spreads its net ewellery brand Argent of London, which launched in 1996, selling principally from its own shop in Wandsworth, South London and on-line, is now taking tentative steps to grow the wholesale side of its business. Following its selection to showcase a capsule collection at Heathrow’s Terminal 5 in 2007, a number of key designs by Argent has more recently been bought by Laing Boutique in Edinburgh – as well as a gift shop on the Isle of Man. Founder and designer Gail Goodrich conceived her jewellery line – using gold, silver and gemstones – to be affordable to women who want to buy for themselves. Included in the wholesale collection are pieces that are pretty and delicate (coloured stones on silver chains), bold and bright (stacking rings and bracelets), quirky (pendants of pearl ‘peas’ in silver ‘pods’) and edgy (stone and pearl embellished crosses).

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Storm launches men’s Black styles at IJL ollowing the success of Black, the premium range of watches from fashion brand Storm, the company will be introducing three men’s styles to the collection at IJL this year (Stand G50). All models have Swiss movements and a sapphire glass face. Shown here is Emron, which features the signature detail of an onyx stone in the crown.

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It had to happen… In a response to the demand for beaded jewellery, British watch maker Accurist has launched the first bracelet watch that is compatible with all leading charm bead brands, including Pandora, Chamilia, Lovelinks and Truth. There are three styles in the range; Daisy, Passion and Crystal Row and the watches are silver plated and feature mother of pearl dials. Additional versions in sterling silver will be launched later this year. GIA launches Gem Identification on-line The Gemological Institute of America has added Gem Identification to its roster of eLearning courses. Considered to be the most challenging course in the programme (500 gemstones to examine and having the most assignments) the on-line version allows students to watch practical videos which will guide them through the identification process. The content is interactive and the format large for easier viewing of stone features, which means that not only colour is clear, but texture, quality of lustre and inclusions can also be seen. For further information please visit: www.gia.edu

The Voice of the Industry 11


| Industry News

Goldsmiths plans gold exhibition major exhibition of gold works of art and artefacts, telling the story of Britain and gold, is being planned for the summer of 2012 by the Goldsmiths’ Company. Entitled “Gold: Britain’s Glorious Riches”, the exhibition tells the story of gold with particular reference to Britain – from Cornish gold dust to precious golden treasures and will be held at Goldsmiths’ Hall from Friday 1st June to Saturday 28th July, 2012. Dr Helen Clifford, the exhibition curator, has sought to focus on this country’s involvement with gold. She explains: “As a trading nation, a centre of inventions and an ambitious empire, gold has long been vital to [our] existence. Not just as an exploitable ore but as a symbol of power, a medium of exchange and an inspiration for masterpieces of craftsmanship.” The exhibition will explore and demonstrate various themes relating to Britain’s relationship with gold, starting with the metal itself, its intrinsic properties and more romantically its associated magic, mystery and potency. Other themes include the sources of gold in Britain and the burials and hoards of gold antiquities which have been discovered. One of the earliest pieces in the exhibition is a gold lunula, a distinctive type of Bronze Age necklace shaped like a crescent moon, dating from 2300-2000 BC which was found in Cornwall. What promises to be an outstanding exhibition will illustrate many fascinating themes with a wealth of rare and beautiful gold objects, from both private and public collections around the country. A one-off exhibition, it is being staged in the year that HM The Queen celebrates her Diamond Jubilee, as well as London hosts the 2012 Olympic Games.

S N I P P E T S

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Young apprentice goes on watch aniel Adair, an apprentice watchmaker at Belfast-based jewellers John H Lunn, has been selected to join the British School of Watchmaking’s exclusive training course. As part of a sponsorship partnership with the British School of Watchmaking, members of the Houlden Group are invited to select suitable candidates to take part in a rigorous assessment for the three year training course. Only six students are selected for the course each year. The 24 year old is enjoying a double celebration as he has only just been appointed to the job as an apprentice watchmaker with Lunn’s having beaten off tough competition. “There is currently a shortfall of approximately 600 watchmakers in the UK. While we have all been very busy selling there has been a whole generation of watchmakers missed, so this is a unique opportunity and a great career path,” says Lizanne Gibson, people development manager at Lunn. “It is not a career many people consider but the passion conveyed by all the horologists

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I’ve ever met speaks volumes – they simply love the job.” The British School of Watchmakers was founded by the Houlden Group, along with partners: The Swatch Group, Rolex Richemont UK, Patek Phillipe, Breitling UK, Signet Group, Goldsmiths and FA Buck. As part of the sponsorship Houlden has the opportunity to present an apprentice for consideration for the School. The project is also supported by Watches of Switzerland Training and Education Programme, based in Switzerland.

Glamour ads from Rox Ultra pro-active Scottish jewellery retailer Rox has unveiled a set of slightly provocative images for its new autumn advertising campaign. The model is wearing new designs from Monica Vinader, ToyWatch, Thomas Sabo and Rox’s new line of silver jewellery. “We are taking jewellery retail to new heights in Scotland and will continue to take risks with our product range and marketing as we aim to show that fashion jewellery is every bit as worth investing in as a new Mulberry bag,” says co-owner of Rox, Kyron Keogh. Pawnbroker launches iMoney Short-term financial solutions specialist Mays has announced a new online pawnbroking service – www.mayspawnbrokers.co.uk – dedicated to confidentiality, and designed specifically for people with time-sensitive lifestyles who need cash quickly. The new service provided by the North West’s largest independent pawnbroker enables customers to secure short-term cash injections against reclaimable jewellery or watches, without the hassle of physically visiting an outlet. Customers fill in details about their item on an online form, deposit their goods via a pre-paid, insured courier service and receive a loan offer from Mays’ valuation specialists. Money is transferred the same day and the customer’s items are kept safe in a secure vault until they are reclaimed a few months later.


| Industry News

Jeweller dices with death in North Sea ominic Gomersall, owner of Lumbers jewellers in Leicester, heading a team of business men attempting to row from Land’s End to Joan O’Groats, was forced to call off the challenge after being rescued by the Coast Guards off Hull. The Lumbers Celebrity Row was aiming to complete the 1097 mile trip in 21 days, to raise money for four charities. When the six-man team, battling Force 10 gales, was rescued on Sunday 17th July, they were, in the words of the North Sea Coast Guard, “20 minutes from almost certain death” as they were being blown towards shipping lanes occupied by major vessels. Until that point, the team had been making extraordinary progress having broken two records en route from Land’s End, despite a few dicey moments. For instance, they made it through the second biggest tidal flow in the world, Bristol Estuary. “The speed and strength of the current could easily have swept us to our peril….it seemed that we had managed to get through the storms and the harsh lessons of sea travel,” says Gomersall. “We are all obviously disappointed at not being able to complete the challenge we had set ourselves but the journey and the camaraderie that we experienced was something we will never forget”. The Lumbers Celebrity Row (a number of celebrities supported the adventure) has raised a substantial amount for charity and will continue to urge for donations for the four major charities: Rainbows Hospice for Children and Young People, The RNLI Lifeboats, Samantha Dickson Brain Tumour Trust and The Princes Trust. Five years ago Gommersall successfully recovered from an operation to remove a brain tumor and wanted to create a once in a lifetime opportunity in which to raise awareness and money for charities whose sole purpose is to help save and enrich people’s lives. If you would like donate to these causes please visit: www.celebrityrow.co.uk/Charity.aspx

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Job seekers to get direct alerts the moment new jobs are posted online he Jeweller’s popular recruitment site www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk which is attracting over 2,300 unique visitors per month*, is now offering a new facility where visitors looking for jobs in the jewellery trade can register their details online and automatically receive notification via email. During registration the job seeker can specify job category or categories they would like to be informed about and in which geographical area. They will then be alerted via email as soon as a new job is posted matching their criteria. Other new features of the site include the ability to subscribe to the brand new Jeweller Recruitment Twitter jobs blog and jobs newsfeed (RSS), both of which are updated as soon as new jobs are posted. To register and view current jobs online visit: www.jeweller-recruitment.co.uk * Source: Google Analytics July

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S N I P P E T S Leadership of retiring De Beers MD commended In a statement issued by Avi Paz, president of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), outgoing CEO Gareth Penny of De Beers has been commended for the central role that he has played in the past years in the rough diamond market. “[His] contribution to the prosperity of the diamond industry… was tremendous and his unique skills were particularly evident during the time of the global economic downturn. He offered strong leadership in an industry that was going through a severe structural and economic crisis in the past 18 months,” Paz stated. As Penny steps down De Beers reports the highest H1 profits ($762 million) in the history of the company (in relation to sales volume). Garrard’s unveils The Royal Thames Cup In celebration of its 275th Anniversary this year, Garrard’s, the oldest jewellers in the world, has once again collaborated with the world of sailing to create an iconic and unique trophy. Following the creation of the original America’s Cup in 1851, Garrard’s has produced some of the world’s finest sporting trophies including the William Webb Ellis Cup, The British Open Claret Jug, Premier League Trophy and the Cricket World Cup. On Wednesday 28th July, Garrard’s continued this tradition with the unveiling The Royal Thames Cup in support of the 1851 Race at Cowes Week 2010. Tateossian and Central St Martins collaboration Jewellery brand Tateossian is also celebrating an anniversary – its 20th – and has commissioned recent graduates from Central St Martins College of Art & Design to create a ladies’ and men’s capsule collection. From the six students chosen to design the lines – mentored by jewellery designer Hannah Martin – two will be selected by judges to go into production. On 24th November, at an event at Christie’s, the final winners will be announced, with the winning pieces appearing in the Tateossian stores from December.


AN D SEE US AT IJL STAN D F81


| Industry News

G-Shock joins forces with RAF pilots

S N I P P E T S New sales rep for Domino British jewellery brand Domino has appointed a sales representative in Ireland. Joining a team of seven sales reps, Ann Marie Farrell will sell the company’s collections throughout the Republic. Farrell, who is herself Irish, is a trained diamond grader (DGA) and previously worked for a diamond dealer in London’s Hatton Garden – a job which required her to travel to Antwerp and Tel Aviv to source and to sell stones. She is also a collector of gemstones and makes her own costume jewellery. Further British Jewellery Week dates announced

atch brand G-Shock, which has held a long affiliation with the Royal Air Force, and is, in particular a strong supporter of trainee pilots, has announced that it will annually award all newly qualified pilots with a top-of-the-range watch. The G-Shock GW-2500 Gravity Defier Aviator watch, which is built with pilot specifications, will be given to each pilot upon their graduation. The new models of the timepiece are designed for easy use by pilots and feature G-shock’s shock and vibration resistance and can withstand major changes in shock and gravitational force. The faces can be read instantly and there are large buttons for reliable operation of the stopwatch and other functions. This year the two most outstanding pilots – Flight Lieutenants Steve Barton and James Harkin – were awarded Premium GW-3000 versions of the watch at their graduation ceremony at RAF Valley End.

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Confederation of British Industry launches creative industries blueprint he CBI is calling on the Government to deliver a clear strategy to ensure the UK’s creative industries can flourish and help lead the economic recovery. In its new report, Creating Growth: A blueprint for the creative industries, the business group stresses the vital economic contribution of creative industries, including fashion, design and art. It is estimated that these industries contribute 6-8 per cent of GDP; account for £16bn of overseas trade each year and employ nearly two million people. The sector also significantly enhances the UK’s cultural reputation globally, underlining the vitality of the UK economy. The CBI believes the UK’s creative sector, which is the biggest in Europe, can play a crucial role in rebalancing the economy and delivering high growth. For that to happen, it believes the Government must deliver the right conditions for the sector to thrive and create new jobs.

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18 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

The rather confusingly titled British Jewellery Week (it began on June 16 and is still going) has announced further dates of exhibitions in jewellery boutiques around the country. Wave Jewellery, which has five shops, has already hosted two events in its London and Manchester shops and has a further three dates to show off work by key jewellery designers. The branches in Bowness (18thAugust-1st September), Kendal (8th-22nd September) and Lancaster (5th-17th November) will be showing pieces by the likes of Tomasz Donocik, Jasmine Alexander and Lauren Adriana. Other participants still to stage exhibitions in BJW include GC Hardwick of Burton -on-Trent (11th-25th September); Catherine Jones, Cambridge (18th-31st October) and Rubinstein Keightley, Uppingham (4th-11th December). Bulgari Group sales up Interim management statements for the Bulgari Group for the first half of 2010 show a turnover of €443.3 million which represents a rise of 8.2 percent at comparable exchange rates. During the same period lat year the Group reported a nett loss of €7.7 million. While the jewellery category rose by 10.5 percent, watch sales decreased by 4.6 per cent. However when taken into into account that sales of watches sold at Basel in 2009 were delivered in the second quarter and this year will be delivered in the third quarter and that the Roth and Genta brand watches are now out of stock, the watch category actually grew by 14 per cent.


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| Industry News

KP agreement on rough diamond exports Nadim Kara, Partnership Africa Canada; and Eleanor Harrowel, Global Witness

S N I P P E T S Ethical Fashion Network launched Deborah Miarkowska, creative director of ethical fashion and jewellery on-line boutique and magazine, EcoChic Collection, has introduced the Ethical Fashion Network. An opportunity for ethical businesses in the South East to meet socially, share ideas and make contacts for working in the ethical sector, the initiative will kick off with a launch event in Hove on 20th September. Ethical jeweller Greg Valerio will lead the evening with a talk followed by a Q&A session. To learn more contact Deborah on: hello@ecochiccollection.co.uk Investor/business connection service launches

he World Diamond Council wrapped up its 7th Annual Meeting in St. Petersburg last month, with the welcome announcement that the Kimberley Process had reached consensus on an agreement that will enable the renewal of rough diamond exports from the Marange diamond fields in Zimbabwe. According to the agreement, by September Zimbabwe will be able to carry out two supervised exports of rough diamond from the Marange production. During this period, the Kimberley Process will conduct a review mission to Zimbabwe. The U.S. State Department led by Susan Page, Assistant U.S. Deputy Secretary of State, were among the delegates that attended the meeting.

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Seiko personnel changes fter 33 years of service with the company, Seiko UK’s technical support manager Mark Mills has retired. He joined what was then Seiko Time (UK) in 1977 and was employed as a watchmaker, having served a seven year apprenticeship and worked as a workshop manager for a family jeweller which was a Seiko agent. In 1992 Mills was appointed to his final position in recognition of his unparalleled technical knowledge and ability to communicate clearly with colleagues, customers and suppliers alike. He also became Seiko’s European technical instructor and he is a member of British Horological Institute. He has now decided to devote his energies to charitable work. The role of technical support manager has been filled by Rob Wilson, who also has a long history with Seiko UK, approaching the completion of 25 years’ service with the company at the end of September this year. He has a depth of technical expertise and alongside his new role, Wilson will continue to provide training and supervision to the workshop. Another long-serving Seiko employee, Dave Powell (he completes 30 years’ service at the end of this year) has been appointed customer satisfaction manager. He was part of the system development team as an analyst and programmer, where he concentrated on the development of Seiko’s electronic ordering system used by the sales team. During his service Powell amassed a wealth of technical knowledge and experience of the many facets of the after sales service operations, as well as understanding the requirements of both the sales force and customers.

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20 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

A new online service has launched that connects investors with businesses looking for funding. The Business Garage Global concept allows companies and entrepreneurs free listings and introductions. Offering ease and simplicity, it is a resource for business owners and investors, and vital for those seeking seed-funding, investment, an exit, or short-term capital. The service comprises three specialist areas: Ignition: for angel investors to connect with entrepreneurs and start-ups seeking funding; Refuel: a service for businesses seeking immediate or short-term funding and Showroom: an area for buyers and sellers of professional service businesses. Congratulations to Jo! All of us at Cube Publishing and the NAG would like to congratulate our contributor (and ex-editor) Jo Young on the birth of her baby boy. Freddie arrived (very promptly) on 6th July – daddy Max’s birthday.


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| Industry News

German watch brand steps up UK push eisterSinger, the Swiss-made German watch brand, has been relaunched in the UK and, to mark the new drive, the company has released a sporty, limited edition version of its N°03 Automatik. Unique in the luxury watch market, the timepiece has just a single hand – no minute hand, second hand, no second or third time zones and no winding. Reflecting the first timepieces of the 17th century, the model, which gives the wearer a more serene approach to the passing of time is the hallmark of the MeisterSinger brand. Time is measured in five-minute increments. Quoting the company he represents, UK sales agent Paul Kustow says: “MeisterSinger has created and crafted a stunningly sporty ‘sundial for the wrist’. But, of course, it has no need of the sun, which renders it several shades more practical. How cool is that?” The black PVD coated 43mm stainless steel case is key to the N°03’s sporty appearance. The white hand, numerals and the hour, half and quarter hour bars contrast sharply with the red bars of the five-minute marks. The stainless steel case is coated with a scratch-proof PVD finish, and is water-resistant. The dial is protected by a domed sapphire crystal. The six screw-glass back shows the inner working of the watch, with its finely engraved ETA automatic mechanical movement. The black crocodile-

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print leather strap, with its fine red stitching, adds the finishing touch to this timepiece, which retails at £1,325. Telling the time with the single-hand watch needs a little explanation: the 12-hour dial is divided by 144 markers and each marker represents 5 minutes. It is 15 minutes past 10 on the watch shown. The 15, 30 and 45 minute markers are bolder, and in combination with the distinctive pointed hand make it easy to read the time.

enowned for its weekly antique’s market, Old Spitalfield Market near Liverpool Street Station in London has added jewellery to its repertoire. Every Tuesday throughout August has seen much of its vast space taken up with jewellery designers, makers and dealers from throughout the south of England, selling anything from hand-crafted one-off items through to costume jewellery, antique through to contemporary. It is expected that the market will become a regular feature of Spitalfield. The team at Old Spitalfields Market are very pleased with their inaugural jewellery market. Andrew Sparrow, manager, said: “More than half of the available stall space was taken up; which, for a brand new market, is really good. Many of the traders have now signed up for the full series of events and further bookings are still coming in. There’s a really eclectic mix of jewellery that appeals to a wide range of shoppers. I feel confident that this event will have a long-term future here at Old Spitalfields Market.” For more information visit: www.oldspitalfieldmarket.com

22 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

Assay Office opens its doors to general public Following on from the success of its presence at the recent Antiques for Everyone event at the NEC, for three days this October the Birmingham Assay Office will be opening its door to the general public and offering limited places on its Silver Collections Visits programme. Normally available to organised groups only, visitors will be given an opportunity to see the spectacular silver collection and the Library and hear the curator, Dr Sally Baggott talk about the history of hallmarking and the Assay Office itself. The visits, taking place on Tuesday 5th October, Tuesday 7th December and Thursday 9th December, at £7 per head must be booked and paid for in advance: silver@theassayoffice.co.uk Ortak signs Smillie and daughter

Jewellery at Spitalfields

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S N I P P E T S

Orkney-based jewellery brand Ortak has signed up Scottish TV presenter Carol Smillie, together with her 15 year old daughter, aspiring model Christie Knight, to front the company’s new autumn/winter 2010 campaign. Following in the footsteps of other celebrities Jill Halfpenny, Amanda Lamb, Mylene Klass, Suzanna Shaw and Kate Ford, ex-model Smillie and her daughter have been chosen to reflect the fact that Ortak appeals to women of all ages, and will be wearing pieces that take a military twist on a romantic theme. Pearls and wellies To celebrate its 21st birthday this autumn, Coleman Douglas Pearls has collaborated with British wellington boot company Rockfish to create Wellies in Pearls, a limited edition collection of 21 pink wellies with five different pink pearl designs, which will be auctioned off for charity. Coleman Douglas Pearl’s Knightsbridge store will play host to the event, with funds raised going to the Too Many Women campaign in aid of Breakthrough Breast Cancer.


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COME AND SEE US AT IJL STAND F81


| NAG News

The NAG at IJL W

ith so many visitors utilising the IJL show to order and buy for Christmas, it is only fitting that the NAG will be kicking off the festive season early once again with a Christmas themed stand at IJL this year. That means a Christmas tree, Christmas cake and Christmas lucky dip. The decorations will form part of the NAG’s continued campaign to encourage employers to think about their staff training requirements. The campaign explains that students who enroll on the first part of the Professional Jewellers Diploma in September could have completed

JET 1 by this Christmas and be well on the way to completing JET 2 by the following Christmas period. The NAG has two product launches planned which will form a part of a packed schedule of events for the Association at this year’s show, including seminars, information, prize draws and the usual Champagne welcome. To kick off, the NAG’s Education Department will unveil its new online courses which promise to make education and training from the NAG even more accessible.

IJL Schedule: NAG Stand i90

NAG Seminars

Sunday 5th September • Christmas Is Too Late To Train Your Staff campaign • 65 years of celebrating the NAG jewellery education and training

Grand Tour of Valuing Practice 2010 on Planet Earth Date/Time: 05 Sep 2010, 15:00-16:00 Location: Windsor Room (First floor) Speaker: Brian Dunn, Tutor, IRV A global snapshot of valuing practice today; the rewards or otherwise, standards expected from one country to another, and in what ways we in the UK can learn from others.

Monday 6th September, 1pm • Online Training launch Tuesday 7th September, 1pm • JET Pro launch Wednesday 8th September • Christmas Is Too Late To Train Your Staff campaign • 65 years of celebrating the NAG jewellery education and training

Making a Success of Succession Date/Time: 07 Sep 2010, 15:00-16:00 Location: Whitehall Room (First floor) Speaker: Mike McGraw Perhaps one of the most disruptive and vulnerable times in a business is when the existing management passes on the baton to

NAG’s Executive Development Forum boosts retail confidence n 2009 EDF members achieved an 11 per cent cumulative sales improvement and in 2010 they are holding comfortably at around 12 per cent. With expert guidance from Mike McGraw of Development Initiatives delegates will join like-minded industry professionals to identify areas of their business that need to change and how to change them. The Forum will also show how to develop a business strategy to meet the economic climate. Six fully facilitated meetings a year with phone/ email support between meetings could also help free jewellers from retail isolation.

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26 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

Visitors to the NAG stand will be able to view the online courses for themselves. The Department will then introduce the latest JET course the following day – JET Pro. This brand new JET course complements the JET 1 and JET 2 programmes and is designed to help students develop a variety of essential business skills. Modules can also be studied individually to help staff concentrate on particular subjects. While focusing on new initiatives, the NAG will also take the opportunity during IJL to continuing to celebrate 65 years of education and training with a huge birthday-cumChristmas cake for visitors to enjoy. For more information call 020 7613 4445 (option 4), email stacy@jewellersonline.org or visit the NAG stand i90.

new management. Irrespective of whether the business is large or small, consisting of one shop or many, the need to prepare well for a handover remains the same. SaferGems – A Progress Report Date/Time: 08 Sep 2010, 12:00-13:00 Location: Whitehall Room (First floor) Speaker: Michael Hoare, CEO, NAG With shrinking resources caused by efficiency savings, jewellers are left with demanding the police do more with less. So the onus must be on self help. Just over a year into its existence, Michael Hoare introduces SaferGems; reports on work in progress and achievements to date; and talks about the future of crime fighting initiatives within the sector.

NAG Council Meeting – save the date! he forthcoming NAG Council Meeting is to be held on Tuesday 12th October. Please note that the location and theme are yet to be confirmed; however we recommend that you save the date as we can assure you that both the venue and speaker will be impressive! Once again, we are extending the invitation to all NAG members and encourage everyone to attend. If you would like further information, please contact Ritu Verma on tel: 020 7613 4445 or email: ritu@jewellers-online.org

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The 6th EDF group is now being formed. To be a part of it contact Amanda White at the NAG on 020 7613 4445, email her at: amandaw@jewellers-online.org or visit the NAG stand i90 at IJL 2010 to find out more.


NAG News |

Our congratulations! his July’s UK Jewellery Awards at the Grosvenor House Hotel in London recognised four NAG members’ successes during the glittering event. Beaverbrooks, Fraser Hart Fields, Jeremy France Jewellers and Keanes of Ireland all took to the stage to collect their trophy from TV personality Claudia Winkleman. This year’s winning achievements, during such a tough climate, reflect the continued enthusiasm of all to maintain high standards in the industry. “Competition is always a good thing, otherwise one runs the risk of complacency,” says NAG chairman Nicholas Major who attended the Awards. “I also like to see new blood being drawn in and there were a good numbers of young designers present, many of whom I had the pleasure to meet.” Many congratulations to our NAG stars.

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New Member Applications To ensure that NAG members are aware of new membership applications within their locality, applicants’ names are published below. Members wishing to comment on any of these applications can call Harshita Deolia on 020 7613 4445 or email: harshita@jewellers-online.org within three weeks of receipt of this issue.

Ordinary Applications Nicola Cleverley accepts her award

Retail Star of the Year Winner: Nicola Cleverley, Jeremy France Jewellers Retail Employer of the Year Winner: Beaverbrooks Independent Retailer of the Year Winner: Keanes of Ireland Multiple Retailer of the Year Winner: Fraser Hart Fields

Hoare elected new IofAM president ichael Hoare, NAG’s chief executive, accepted the presidency of the Institute of Association Management at its Annual General Meeting in July. The honorary role, which lasts for one year, will see Hoare oversee the activities of the IofAM, an independent professional body for those in charge of trade associations. Among Its 200 members are chief executives and senior managers of trade organisations, professional institutes, charities and other representative bodies. The purpose of the Institute is the development, promotion and sharing of best practice through the dissemination of information and research. Speaking of his appointment Hoare said, “Things have changed a lot since I took up my first role with a trade association some twenty years ago; now trade association management is viewed as a profession with a distinct set of skills.” Thanking his predecessor, Hazel Morley, chief executive of the Association of Master Saddlers, the new president complimented her on overseeing the transition to a new management company and the appointment of new chief executive Paul Neal. Stating his objectives for the year to come, Hoare confirmed that after a short period of consolidation during which communications with the association community would be addressed, he hoped to see an increase in membership and further development of the IofAM’s already successful training work.

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Carats Co Ltd (Ian Bishop) Ipswich Ring (Stuart Stanley) Brighton Aleks Jewellers (Adrian Phillips) Norwich

Affiliate Applications Christie’s (Russell Penny/Francois Pinault) London Silver Mine (Talat Ismail), Cheltenham

Alumni Applications Abigail Francis Milek, Knaresborough

IRV Applications If members wish to comment on any of these, please contact Sandra Page on (029) 2081 3615.

Upgrading from Member to Fellow Peter R Buckie, Pinner

And more congratulations! he NAG team would like to send their best wishes to designer goldsmith Annette Gabbedey and her husband Nigel Bowers who married on 19th June, 2010. The wedding took place in the village church in Mells, Somerset and had a few unusual touches with the groom and best man arriving on horseback in Regency dress! Annette is based in Frome, Somerset.

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Making sense of telecoms elecoms can be confusing at the best of times. With more providers than ever and an extremely competitive market, how do you know what’s a good deal and what’s just cheap talk? To help retailers avoid some of the most common pitfalls the NAG has teamed up with Uniworld, which is part of the Gamma Telecomm Group and its exclusive partner for telecoms, to provide some useful pointers.

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For instance, before you sign up to a new telecoms provider be sure to ask if the rates you have been shown include a call set-up cost. This is a cost that’s normally hidden in the small print. You may think that you are getting a great deal because you have done your homework but it’s a minefield. For more information on this, call plans and Uniworld’s preferential rates for NAG members email: nags@uniworld.co.uk

The Voice of the Industry 27


| NAG News

Member of the Month There was an air of eager anticipation at Lumar Jewels in Gravesend last month. The husband and wife team’s business was preparing to open Head & Hart, its new flagship store in Maidstone. Harshita Deolia was first to hear of the latest developments as she spoke to co-owner Andrew Marshall for this issue’s Member of the Month. Tell us a bit about Lumar Jewels. What’s been going on this year? The Lumar Jewels family business was set up in 1977 by my parents David and Jackie. I joined the company in 1993. The three of us made a really good team – we were dynamic and had some good ideas. The store did so well in fact that my parents were exhausted from all the hard work! That’s when I stepped in and took over. We’ve traditionally sold diamond and gem set jewellery, wedding rings and gold chains and bracelets, but last year we made a few changes and introduced silver, some watch brands and also took on the bead phenomenon. The retail environment has been tough and challenging this year, and you have to adapt. We also thought it was time for a change, so we looked into opening a new shop.

Your new store Head & Hart opens soon. How are preparations coming along? We’re nearly there! It’s been a long process finding the right place. Location is very important and we feel we’ve chosen the right town, with the right demographic audience. Maidstone is a vibrant, busy town and we knew we wanted a high street location. We’ve created a stunning environment for carefully selected jewellery. We thought a lot about what we wanted to stock and we’ve chosen some of the very best of

28 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

British design. The passion for it comes across to the customers, and they get excited about it too. We’ve got fantastic staff, it’s a fledgling team and they’re really enthusiastic. How will the new shop differ from or complement Lumar Jewels ? They are both entirely different shops, but one thing is constant – they are both family businesses so we are aware of customer service. That’s not to say staff employed in other shops don’t have this awareness, but when it’s your own business, it’s different. We always go that extra mile for customers. The difference between the shops is massive, with Head & Hart we’re creating that ‘new generation’ of jewellers. Also, with the name Head & Hart we were trying to create a different identity to Lumar Jewels. The name came about because we went into it with our heads and hearts, and it’s that passion and drive that’s makes us excited about jewellery. We loved the image of the stag and its connotations of heraldry, luxury, and being royal game and so used a little poetic licence. What made you choose designers such as Shaun Leane and Stephen Webster? They’re really exciting and they always want to create something different. They’re also very careful about protecting their image and their brand. Some consumers like to be different and not follow trends and that’s why we were careful about choosing particular designers. We looked at the brands in surrounding shops and wanted to stock exciting, cutting edge designs [which would be] different to what they had. What would you say is the secret to making a family business successful? The good thing with a family business is that you know how each other works, and what each others’ strengths are. You’re also in

control of your own destiny with having your own business. My parents never expected me to join them – I went off and did other things. It was down to circumstance and chance that I took on the business. I have four daughters and as much as I think it would be nice for them to become a part of it, it’s also important that they create their own independence, expand their horizons and develop their skills. It’s not entirely healthy to just stay in one place your whole life – you need to venture out to learn life skills. It helps you to learn to interact with other people, which is the most key thing you can learn. Will you be attending IJL this year? Sometimes you think you know what people have got by looking through their catalogues, but when you look at some of the pieces on the stand, you realise how nice they are. Even making contact with the people you deal with and putting faces to names is important. You can’t beat hands on, face-toface contact; the relationship between you and your customers is exactly the same. Finally, can you share a story with our readers about memorable customers? I love the phrase “the customer is always right”. Some time ago a little old lady came into the shop with a silver razor shaving set that she wanted to return. We didn’t sell a set like it, and we never had! She said to me “you do sell them, it was in that cabinet and you were stood right there when you sold it”. The cabinet she was pointing to had other items in it, but she was so sure that it was me that had sold this set to her. After about five minutes, we really had to insist that we didn’t sell it. She finally left only to come back after half an hour and as she came through the door she said “now this is the shop I bought it in!”


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BJA News |

See you all at IJL! nternational Jewellery London will once again draw together the many disparate strands of our industry and the BJA team, which will, as usual, be on hand throughout the show, are looking forward to welcoming members to our stand number C50. As you will see below we shall be offering a wide range of services and do hope that these will prove useful to our Mike Hughes, members. chairman of the BJA

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We are also looking forward to introducing our new chief executive, Simon Rainer, to the industry at the Show. I know that he will welcome the opportunity to meet with as many of you as possible and he and I intend to visit as many members on their stands as we can. We are both looking forward to having your input into the future of the Association.

BJA appoints new CEO he British Jewellers’ Association has announced the appointment of Simon Rainer as its new chief executive. With over 15 years experience in the international and domestic jewellery markets, Simon has an impressive sales, marketing and general management background having previously worked with such major brands as Victorinox Swiss Army, Colibri jewellery and Esprit. Most recently, Simon has been working out of the USA managing the distribution of watch and jewellery brands to major blue chip organisations, including the US Army, HSN, Sears and QVC. Speaking about his appointment he says, “I have an extensive knowledge of jewellery manufacturing processes, and most importantly have a thorough understanding of how the jewellery supply chain works. I understand the routes to market, with empathy for threats, challenges and opportunities that manufacturers and distributors face”.

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Services from the BJA at IJL Designer Maker Mentoring The BJA’s Lindsey Straughton will be available to assist newcomers to the industry with taking the next step forward in their careers. Bring samples of your work for her to critique and for advice on pricing, marketing and trade shows. Product Information The BJA team has in-depth knowledge of the industry and can save visitors considerable time by pointing them to member companies producing those products they are seeking. Intellectual Property Stephen Welfare and the team from Royds LLP solicitors will be available daily to consult with members who have copyright and other IP problems or queries.

On-the-spot Credit Checks Ensure that potential new customers are creditworthy with immediate credit checks via Experian. Business Perks The BJA offers a wide range of business services to its members ranging from specialist insurance and credit control through to discounts at trade events and assistance with PR and publicity. Export and Import Advice Mike Josypenko, manager of British Jewellery & Giftware International, will be on hand during Tuesday 7th Sept 10.30am to 12 noon and 3.30pm to 5.30pm to provide expert advice and information. Visit us on Stand C50 to find out more

“In my new role, I want to work closely with the BJA membership to provide a dynamic, credible, reliable and thoroughly professional range of services that best serves the needs of the British Jewellery industry,” he adds. “Above all, the BJA must be approachable with the main objective of adding to the membership’s commercial prosperity”. Simon, 53 is married with two daughters and when not at work is a keen cook and enjoys following both cricket and football.

The Voice of the Industry 31


| BJA Profile

The Dendritic Collection

New kid on the block BJA member Alexander Davis has been voted ‘New Designer of the Year’ in the recent 2010 UK Jewellery Awards. Mary Brittain spoke to him to discover the secret of his success. tudying bio-chemistry at Imperial College, London is an unusual early career path for a jeweller but then Alexander Davis, as his recent meteoric rise to success only goes to prove, is indeed unusual and has risen, with no formal jewellery or design training, to become the toast of the industry. Davis’s love affair with jewellery began at school where he learnt basic bench skills and continued with a number of short practical courses at West Dean College and London Metropolitan University undertaken during his degree. He then worked for various goldsmiths in London before starting up his first jewellery business ‘Rowan Davis’ with a friend from school. “It all happened rather by accident. We started producing branded cufflinks for schools including Eton College and Harrow and things evolved from there,” he told me. In 2007 Davis decided to create his first fine jewellery collection for Goldsmiths’ Fair. His distinctive style draws on a number of influences – not least his background as a bio-chemist – and includes designs based on molecules and DNA as well as on architecture – most particularly Winchester Cathedral where he played the organ as a child. “I started off in silver and moved up to 18ct gold, platinum, diamonds and striking gemstones. As well as molecules and architecture, I also have a number of more

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32 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

conceptual cutting-edge pieces such as my ‘Grand Canyon’ ring and ‘Diadem’ two-finger ring in platinum which won the Emerging Designer’s category in the 2010 Lonmin Design Innovation Award,” he says. Over the past three years Davis has established a number of prestigious outlets for his work and is stocked by many of the major galleries in the South East of England.

His distinctive style includes designs based on molecules and DNA as well as on architecture… He has also, thanks to his participation in the BJA’s highly successful London Jewellery Exports (LJE) project, explored a number of export markets. “ I exhibited with LJE at Inhorgenta and at the French exhibition, Kara, at the Louvre and firmly believe that my participation in these events helped to boost the profile of my brand and to put me in touch with a number of excellent contacts,” he says. The BJA has also helped Davis to raise his profile nearer to home. When I spoke with him he had recently returned from attending a Company of Master Jewellers meeting where he was showing his collections to its members as part of a group of promising designers.

While Davis provides stockists with a wide choice of off-the-shelf pieces, his real love is bespoke design and this is one of the main reasons why he has now opened his own retail outlet in the West End of London, under the new brand name ‘Alexander Davis’. The location he has chosen was previously an extremely successful shop for Stephen Webster – who has moved on to larger premises – and it is difficult not to draw parallels between the two. The look of the shop, which Davis has entirely refurbished, is, he says, a fusion of the modern and baroque, and is perfect for his purposes. “This is a fabulous location just next door to Selfridges and The Wallace Collection. I am running it as an atelier with my workshop on the premises and visitors have to make an appointment to see me. The stock is 80 percent of my own designs but I also carry a small selection of work from other high-end, luxury designer peers in the industry. The main thrust however is to make individual pieces for my clients. I’m still very much the new kid on the block but things are looking good,” he says. Dark Romance sapphire trillion Ring in 18ct white gold


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| Feature

the

Jeweller Brand Profile

Hot Diamonds Led by a handful of ‘names’, the business of brands is a relatively new phenomenon in the jewellery industry. Now Hot Diamonds, one of those pioneering companies, feels that as it hits its tenth anniversary, the time is ripe for a redefining shot in the arm, as Belinda Morris discovers. f to you Hot Diamonds means ‘safe’ silver gift lines and you think you know its collections, its ethos, its place in the market – it’s probably because you haven’t had a good look at it lately. And you certainly haven’t met Jonathan Crocker, its relatively recently-appointed managing director – a man who is more than ready to debunk a few preconceptions. “Being a brand is not about staying still – you have to develop,” he insists. And he should know; he brings with him a wealth of experience from the world of ‘real’ brands (his word, not mine) most recently Bang & Olufsen. Which means that he doesn’t talk like your average jewellery supplier – he talks like someone who has paid a lot of attention in all those motivational, empowerment, brand-building type seminars that are the lifeblood of a global name.

And it is through the revitalisation of the product itself, that you experience the tangible evidence of the change in the brand. While the core range of popular and successful silver jewellery with its trademark diamond accent, remains in place, the focus of attention has shifted to something far more contemporary, edgy and definitely

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Driftwood Cuff from the Ionia range in the Black collection

34 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

An image from the new 2010 campaign

Gold vermeil ring from the Bali range in the Black collection

And I mean that in the nicest possible way… really. Crocker’s enthusiasm for and belief in the reawakened Hot Diamonds positively bounces off him. It couldn’t have been for my benefit alone. He’s a man who smiles a lot – which must make for a cheerful work environment at the very least. “It’s been crucial for me to have someone come in from the ‘outside’,” says creative director Julie Large, who has led the design team since 2002. “Jonathan’s fresh eyes on the company and collections have been revitalising.”

“When we split the portfolio we wanted to add designled, self-purchase pieces – in short, jewellery that I wanted to wear…”

A cuff from the new Men’s collection


Feature | less ‘safe’. Hot Diamonds is moving in step with a style-savvy consumer hungry for innovation and, crucially, difference. “When we split the portfolio we wanted to add design-led, selfpurchase pieces – in short, jewellery that I wanted to wear,” explains Large. “We wanted to create a more challenging look, but still at a competitive price point.” The result is Black. It’s a collection that Crocker describes as having “something of the night – daring, sexy… all the things that were not in the Hot Diamond brand before”. But crucially, it allows for a level of creativity and exclusivity without destroying the existing core lines. “This is a different design language –we’re talking to a different audience, a more grown-up, indulgent, selfpurchasing customer,” says Large, “and so Black will open for us the doors to retailers who do not want to carry X, Y or Z brands.” It’s the kind of collection of impactive, statement items – there are even mediaattracting catwalk pieces that found their

A green graphite Twilight bracelet from the Selene range in the Black collection

way onto the Bafta red carpet earlier this year – that needs its own brand-defining environment to show it off to best effect. In stark contrast to the familiar red backdrop for the existing lines, Black has been given a more sleek and urban display environment.

Ebony-coloured woodwork, with white interior and shots of vivid pink, it conveys the message that Hot Diamonds is less a trade commodity and more a consumer brand. “We want to move what was a great trade product, to a desirable, cool product,” says Crocker, who is also quick to point out that the furniture is not being imposed dictatorially upon retailers. As any brand worth its salt should do, Hot Diamonds has spent time considering how it should communicate its new essence – expressed in human terms as brave (new materials), loving (with soul), playful (new ways of wearing) and generous (scale and service). Peter Bur Andersen – who looks spookily similar to Crocker, possibly not coincidentally – of Copenhagen-based Bur Retail Intelligence, works closely with the small management team to build and help develop the identity of Hot Diamonds. Witness the moody advertising images; the on-line newsletters; the ever-so-slightly risqué catch line: Do you remember of the first time? “Self-definition

“This is a different design language –we’re talking to a different audience, a more grown-up, indulgent customer who buys for herself”

Jonathan Crocker and Julie Large in the Hot Diamond's showroom

– it’s all about how you want other people to perceive you,” says Crocker. “Our brand is our personality.” Retailers will be given a chance to decide for themselves what they make of this personality at IJL this year. Expect to see a cutting-edge stand (lots of shiny, reflective material) and be shown a taster of the new dedicated, military-inspired men’s collection (which is to have its true launch with a military charity on Armistice Day). “Having pulled away from trade shows for a while we’re putting ourselves back in the world now that we’re ready to show where we are and what we are today,” says Crocker. “We’re not about status quo – we define ourselves as leaders. We have to challenge ourselves in that way.”

The Voice of the Industry 35


| Opinion : John Henn

Revelations from the EDF Congress We were all accounted for, 35 in place and five with vetted excuses – another summer, another eye-opening series of unmissable industry presentations. he second EDF congress kicked off at the rather alternative Said Business School in Oxford. The building hadn’t grown any more appealing since my last visit a year earlier, and it remained as elusive as ever, confounding a number of sat navs. Riding the bike down I was taking no chances and found it on Google Earth beforehand. Mike McGraw gave us a resumé of the year since our last meeting and in general we were doing better than the trend. SaferGems was gaining momentum, with 105 reported security alerts with direct evidence that subscribers had benefited from information about events in their areas. Remember it is free to subscribe, all you have to do is… subscribe. Three presentations were coming our way in the course of the day and they began with Sophie Hudson, whose department you contact when your Tui Thomson holiday includes some unscheduled events. She was a revelation in customer service – while looking the other way she had agreed to spend a few months in the Complaints Department of the company, and some two years later had transformed a workforce that didn’t enjoy a minute of its very

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busy day into one that was resolving issues and, more importantly, keeping customers. Previously they had been given 20 minutes to spend on each complaint, and not surprisingly very few clients came back. She talked of how they now give a client their own website to view the countdown to their holiday. Here they had their own ‘Rough Guide’ to their destination, and could plan visits, restaurants, car hire. I did like the

They had a selection of approaches that would impress a parliamentary candidate with the ease at which information could be gleaned from the target. communication [Thomson now have] with the client once a booking has been made. Could we do something like this on our own sites that could encourage clients to follow the progress of their orders/ repairs, thus freeing the phone from those calls of ‘when will it be available to collect’? Recognising

returning clients; ensuring good first impressions; efficient, intelligent staff who inspired confidence should a problem develop, were all in her ‘things that matter most’ section. There was plenty of overlap between our trades. Next up was the great husband and wife team, ‘Virada Training’. They played out a number of customer/sales staff interactions, all of which we would probably admit to having seen before in our own stores. The intention was to understand where in the buying process each of the ‘customers’ was. When it was broken down in front of us of course we all worked it out, but when the floor was asked, what would your reply be to a client saying “I quite like that one” the reply of “how would you like to pay” was not what Virada were looking for! They had a selection of approaches that would impress a parliamentary candidate with the ease at which information could be gleaned from the target. I liked them enormously and will, if practical, apply for a software upgrade for all of us at TAH. Finally Mark Giddings talked to us about the importance of design in our stores and explained some fundamental lay-out criteria. His enthusiasm for his art was infectious and he covered everything from neatly priced, well-dressed windows, to the full customer experience in a number of impressive high street, and exclusive stores names. He had us, in our minds, walking up to our stores with our eyes half closed, experiencing the impressions from 15, 10 and three metres away, by which point you have five seconds to encourage a new client to walk in. If they see brightness, colour and fresh clean displays, you’ve a much greater chance of encouraging them to want to buy into your world. There is no doubt he speaks the truth, just look at the stores listed in the latest Retail Jeweller booklet of the top thirty most inspiring independent retail jewellers in the UK – not a stereotype to be seen anywhere. We all dispersed to our various homes around the country to return to work the next day and implement something new. On Saturday, as a client was leaving the store without making a purchase of a silver cross, I asked in my silkiest voice as to why he hadn’t purchased the item he so obviously liked. He replied, “it’ll leave me short for the vodka”. Sign me up Virada!


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Accurate Assays Using X-ray Fluorescence Analysis for Fast and Non-destructive Precious Metal Alloy Testing Bruker is one of the largest manufacturers of scientific instruments in the world. The X-Ray Spectrometry division has been making innovative instruments for more than 30 years and is the recipient of several industry and scientific awards. The latest product line is for micro-X-ray Fluorescence Analysis with the instruments M1 MISTRAL and M1 ORA. These have been specifically designed for the accurate analysis of precious metal alloys allied with safety and ease of use. X-Ray fluorescence offers a fast, non-destructive and accurate determination of all components in an alloy. Whether buying or selling, it is important to know the assay accurately and quickly and, importantly for finished items, non-destructively. Both for manufacturers of jewellery and for dealers there is a need for a quick and exact means of testing. To get the most accurate assay it is essential to provide versatile software to quickly identify the elements present and then calculate and display the result. The result can then be printed out as a customised report. As the system is totally enclosed and interlocked there is no danger of any scattered radiation to the operator. Using the inbuilt video microscope simply focus on the area to be tested, close the door, press the button and in as little as 5 seconds identify the alloy with its assay. You can even test just the pin on an earring or a setting on a ring. For plated items it is possible to penetrate the layers to assay the alloy underneath as well as to determine the thickness of the coating. Au / wt.%

Carat

Deviation / wt.%

33–45

8 to 12

0.18

45–60

12 to 14

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60–85

14 to 20

0.15

At the heart of the M1 MISTRAL is the revolutionary Bruker XFlash ® silicon drift detector, providing excellent analytical performance. Using the pre-calibrated programs will give a deviation of only 0.1 % to 0.2 %. Making company specific calibrations can result in a deviation of better than 0.1 %.

Ready to work upon delivery the system is supplied with a laptop, just plug in and it’s ready to go. The operators can add their own standards to make specific calibrations. There is even powerful software included to process measured spectra. With negligible running and maintenance costs and results within a few seconds, what more could you want? 85–100

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For further information email mike.dobby@bruker.co.uk or visit http://www.bruker-axs.com/m1-mistral.html

think forward

μ-XRF


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Crossing the line When Maurice Lacroix launched in the UK a few years ago, the focus of attention – pretty understandably – was on the Swiss brand’s fabulously technical and very high end timepieces. But that is only part of the story, as Mark Sutcliffe, managing director of Maurice Lacroix UK explains. The Jeweller: Are you saying that it’s not necessary for an independent jeweller to blow his whole watch budget for a year on one or two Maurice Lacroix watches? Mark Sutcliffe: Exactly. Because of the reduction of supply of movements – ebouches – we opened our own movement manufacturing facility which in turn moved part of our brand into the luxury end of the market with the Masterpiece collection. But despite this fact, the core element of Maurice Lacroix – 80 percent of the volume – is in classic, automatic and quartz models. TJ: So it’s a far more commercial collection than many people probably imagine? MS: Yes it is. We can offer retailers an independent Swiss brand – high-quality Swiss-made watches – starting from around £600 and rising to £2,500. For an investment of as little as £12,000, jewellers can take on a classic Maurice Lacroix range, which is rare for a quality-manufacture Swiss brand. In fact it’s less than the retail price of one of our own manufacture rose gold chronographs!

38 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

TJ: This information will presumably come as a surprise as well as good news to many jewellers who have fairly small businesses? MS: Because of the high profile nature of the Masterpiece watches, which do receive

Les Classique

a lot of media attention, it’s probably fair to say that many of these jewellers don’t know that Maurice Lacroix offers a commercially priced range as well. We’re actively looking to redress that situation. A lot of independents are being pushed heavily by the bigger watch groups into carrying large stock values, but because we’re independent ourselves, we don’t have such rigorous rules. TJ: Describe the key commercial ranges in the Maurice Lacroix collection. MS: There are three: Pontos – so-called as it was created to be a bridge between the quartz watches and the Masterpiece collection – has a younger, architectural style. The dials are more contemporary and the sapphire crystal case backs allow the wearer to see the movements. The watches are also larger – 42mm cases – and use a variety of automatic movements. The prices start from around £1,400. This year we introduced Les Classique and as the name suggests, this is a range that is classic, slimmer and smaller in design. In fact it’s very ‘on-trend’, with fashion directions moving towards more understated styling and cleaner indices. There are men’s and ladies’ models in the collection, which retails from around £650. The quartz styles and the ladies’ watches feature stainless steel bracelet straps, while the automatics have mainly leather straps.


£750, rising to £2,000 for the watch set with diamonds. For 2011 this range is going to be developed further.

Maurice Lacroix brand ambassador Sir Bob Geldof as featured on the cover of the June issue of The Jeweller magazine

The final collection is Fiaba, which is a dedicated ladies’ line and has been designed specifically to be more feminine – rather than a scaled-down version of a men’s timepiece. It has a rectangular curved face and comes with either a leather strap or stainless steel bracelet. The starting price is

TJ: Presumably jewellers who carry the Pontos, Classique and Fiaba collections can benefit from the same Maurice Lacroix advertising as the more specialised Masterpiece watches enjoy? MS: Of course. Our line ‘Follow your convictions’ applies equally across all collections. We are appealing across the board to a consumer who buys Maurice Lacroix because they like the design and the integrity of an independent Swiss watch brand and do not necessarily copy what their friends are wearing. It’s more about the person than the big name. And that’s why we chose our three international brand ambassadors: Sir Bob Geldof – well, everyone knows that he’s a man who follows his convictions; Justin Rose, the golfer who, against all advice, turned pro at 17 and then, after two years, became Europe’s number one and Jimmy Wales, who, with the conviction that knowledge should be free to the world, invented Wikipedia. It’s great that two of these three are from the UK!

For an investment of as little as £12,000, jewellers can take on a classic Maurice Lacroix range, which is rare for a quality-manufacture Swiss brand. Pontos

Fiaba

TJ: And the core Maurice Lacroix ranges also have a strong presence at various brand activities… MS: Yes, along with images of the ambassadors, we animate the ranges through our corporate events. In the UK Maurice Lacroix sponsors the Superstock Powerboat Championships and this series of grand prix races at various locations around the British Isles, really adds a glamorous, luxury image to the brand. A Pontos Chronograph is awarded to the winning pilots of each race – at 80 mph in rough seas, they really are demonstrating the courage of their convictions! Window displays showing DVDs of the races – as well as pictures of Bob and Justin – further emphasise the prestige as well as the individuality of this quality Swiss timepiece.

For more information contact Mark Sutcliffe at Desco Luxury UK Ltd, 020 8749 2405

The Voice of the Industry 39


| IJL Preview

Stand & Deliver It’s that time of year again… jewellery buyers from around the world are preparing their assault on Earl’s Court – the venue for London’s largest and most important jewellery show. Belinda Morris looks at the who, what and where of IJL. here’s always an air of feverish anticipation before a major jewellery fair and this year, with close to 500 exhibitors showing at IJL, the mood is almost palpable. The impressive and promising figure is one that has been matched by a substantial increase in visitor registration on last year. The 2010 event is packed with some of the best-known and most exciting names in British and international jewellery – some showing for the first time, others returning to the fold to launch new brands and images. And as always, an impressive muster of new designers and companies will be injecting a breath of fresh new sparkle into the event. The as-yet-undiscovered ‘next big talents’ – as chosen by a panel of fashion and lifestyle editors – can be seen on the Bright Young Gems stand, including the recipient of the Gold Award given by Bec Clarke of top jewellery retailer Astely Clarke. And if the media view on jewellery is of interest, check out the Editor’s Choice – a selection of designers chosen in four categories by leading jewellery and watch writer Claire Adler. Elsewhere in the show, another initiative to draw attention to fledgling talent is KickStarters – a line-up of ten designers who have benefited from a bursary scheme launched by IJL together with the BJA. Daisy Knights, a Bright Young Gem of 2009 is among them. With my consumer as well as my press hat on, I’m drawn moth-like to the stands of inspirational jewellery designers, so I hope great numbers of retailers will also venture along to these areas, as well as to the Design Gallery – now at the front of the hall – where some of the more established names in British and international jewellery design can be found: Alexander Davis, Babette Wasserman, Chris Hawkins, FSA, Malcolm Morris, Rachel Galley and Tomasz Donocik among the ones to watch. For those visiting IJL with a very focussed brief to seek out white metal, a good starting point would be to follow the Platinum Trail. For the third year running Platinum Guild International has highlighted, within special displays, the latest collections from platinum manufacturers, such as Anria which manufactures fine, diamond set Indian jewellery and imports platinum chains. Retailers will also have the chance to vote for their favourite display. For the first time this year, a selection of events will be held at the Boulevard Bar, including what is now an established part of IJL, the lively Great Debate, presented in partnership with the Birmingham Assay Office, which will also be hosted in this area. Industry figures will debate the hot topic: Making Fairtrade and Fairmined Gold a Reality and issues such as ethical sourcing; what the jewellery industry can do to improve the lives of miners and their

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communities, and how to implement Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) independent audits. The Great Debate (Sunday 5th, 1.30pm) hopes to provoke thought, stimulate discussion, share ideas and prompt action in relation to the ethical issues that confront consumers and the trade. This will be followed on Monday 6th at 1.30pm by an Implementation Worshop given by the Responsible Jewellery Council and open to both RJC members and nonmembers. And on Wednesday 8th at 11am a panel of traders will share their experiences in sourcing, auditing and marketing ethically sourced products… and the challenges that presents. In addition, IJL, as ever, has put together a comprehensive and complimentary programme of seminars, divided inro specific streams: Retail Strategies for Success; Technical Skills & Product Knowledge; Jewellery Trends and Multi-Channel Retailing. Leading designer Stephen Webster has recently been announced as one of the key trend speakers He will be focussing on

The 2010 event is packed with some of the bestknown and most exciting names in British and international jewellery… men’s jewellery in a seminar entitled ‘The evolution of men and their jewellery – from medallions on a bed of hair to a full chest wax and rosaries’. How could you possibly miss that?! He will cover everything from changing trends in men’s jewellery, to why his men’s jewellery is so popular, who is buying it and what can help retailers sell more men’s jewellery. IJL will open at 9am each day this year (rather than the usual time of 10am) so that visitors have more time to get as involved as possible with all aspects of the show, as well as browse, network and do business. And don’t forget that IJL is completely free to attend, for those who register prior to the event. Simply visit: www.jewellerylondon.com/nag

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Stand F81 This heart and anchor piece in solid silver is part of the new Wave of Love collection by Just J (which also includes pink gold and features peace and love symbols). Once tied onto a ribbon or silk cord the jewellery can then be wrapped around the wrist, ankle or neck to create a fun, personal statement look. Distributed by DMJ.

Rachel Entwistle

Stand A601 Featuring silk embroidery on fine velvet, set in sterling silver, Mexican-inspired Xochiti is a bold, colourful and luxurious limited edition collection. There are three styles of necklaces and earrings in a variety of striking colourways.

Spinning Jewelery Stand F81 Trust Me is a necklace from the new line by Spinning Jewelry – a leader in the composable jewellery market. Rings, earrings, bracelets and necklaces using silver, gold or diamonds, can be stacked or mixed and matched to suit the wearer’s personal style or mood. From DMJ.

BQ Watches

Curteis

Stand H110 A brand new and very modern-look stand will not only showcase the new collections from Curteis but also introduce visitors to the company’s new trade website. Improved navigation, better search facilities, enhanced delivery information and improved customer care with an express customer contact service are among the new features it offers.

42 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

Stand H48 Tapping into the growing market for pre-owned Rolex watches Ian Schaffer of BQ Watches will be offering some of the most sought-after models such as the Submariner Date, Sea Dweller, Oyster and Daytona. “They still look new, depreciate very slowly, cost a lot less than new watches and offer fantastic investment potential,” he explains. The company will also be offering a wide range of ladies’ and gents’ Datejust alongside other popular models like Air-King and Milgauss.

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FOLLOW YOUR INSTINCT WWW.SPINNINGUK.NET COME AND SEE US AT IJL STAND F81 DMJ . REDWORTH ROAD . SHILDON . COUNTY DURHAM . DL4 2JT . TEL: 01388 770 870


WWW.DMJ.INFO COME AND SEE US AT IJL STAND F81 DMJ . REDWORTH ROAD . SHILDON . COUNTY DURHAM . DL4 2JT . TEL: 01388 770 870


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Kit Heath Storywheels Stand F81 Made from gold, silver, diamonds and pearls, Storywheels represents the ultimate in composable jewellery – each piece, whether a bracelet, necklace, pendant, earrings or ring becoming a true investment as well as a string of memories. Distributed by DMJ. Moon Jewellery Stand G120 Designed and developed in Northern Ireland, Moon jewellery offers a contemporary yet elegant combination of sterling silver and gemstones for a variety of capsule collections. The brands has future plans to collaborate with designers to create their own signature style lines.

Stand F120 Attention to detail shines from each curve and each unexpected twist of finely crafted silver in Kit Heath’s new collection. The heavy influence of a love of nature can be seen in an assortment of leaf pendants, charms and an Indian inspired paisley design. The new range sees subtle injections of colour in blue jade, smoky rose quartz and blue agate, decorating bold, engraved cocktail rings and pendant necklaces.

Elodie Stand i108 Silver and gemstones come together with vivid flashes of colour: pink sapphires, cool aquamarines, deep blue tanzanite, lustrous pearls and diamonds embellish cocktail rings and pendant necklaces. Stones highlight richly burnished silver and can be seen in the must-have, stacking bangles and rings.

Nexus Pearls Stand i78 Building on the demand for high quality jewellery, Nexus Pearls will be launching a new range of Certified Diamonds and Pearls at IJL. As well as classic brilliant cut diamonds, the new range of pendants will also feature fancy cut shapes and colours used with Tahitian and South Sea cultured pearls. Multi-coloured Tahitian cultured pearl necklaces will also be shown, with natural tones and long layered lengths being a major trend this year.

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Nicky Vankets Stand F81 Trained as a fashion designer, Belgian Nicky Vankets has since launched his own jewellery collection of innovative, style-conscious, pretty and affordable pieces using a mix of materials, including brass for oversized hoop earrings. Distributed by DMJ.

Giorgio Martello Stand E101 The rhodium-plated sterling silver collection by Milan-based Giorgio Martello includes the popular fashion concept of stacking rings, available in various stone colours and settings. Also this season will see around 400 new clip-on silver charms in the Lucky Charms collection.

Chris Hawkins

Design Gallery Stand C21 Following the success of his Corvid collection launched at IJL last year, men’s jewellery designer Chris Hawkins has developed the line further. This chunky, spiky silver bracelet, not for the faint-hearted, has been joined by fox and rabbit cufflinks. Also new is a line of rough diamond engagement rings with a dark twist…

46 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

Glam Rock Stand F81 This new Gulfstream watch is from the new collection of timepieces by über glamorous Glam Rock (from DMJ). Launched last year the line is already finding favour with the fashion crowd who are attracted by a watch that can match any outfit – watch and straps can be changed at the flick of a finger.

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Stand E101 This very contemporary collection in sterling silver (as well as 24ct gold plated silver for certain designs) features simple graphic forms such as circles, flowers and leaves to create organic, three-dimensional pieces. Fresh water pearls and coloured stones are also used to complement the designs. The men’s collection works with braided leather, stainless steel, titanium and tungsten for the strong, masculine look.

Jersey Pearl Stand G70 Inspired by the beauty of the Jersey lily (amaryllis belladonna) Jersey Pearl will be launching its new Lily collection. This pendant is one of the pieces created using rhodium plated sterling silver, but other designs incororate matte brushed satin 9ct yellow gold with a shiny white gold finish… and of course, a pearl.

Goldmajor

Stand F39 Besides its renowned, classic amber and silver pieces, Goldmajor will also be launching jewellery that combines silver with various coloured gemstones in the JW Design range. Marcasite, jet, sardonyx and aventurine are among the latest additions; while the JW Man line introduces steel, carbon fibre and tungsten.

PJ Watson Stand G101 Two new rings, one with a natural pink diamond, the other with a natural blue diamond, will be able to be viewed in a whole new light as PJ Watson not only introduces its new collection but also a new lighting system. Unveiled at Basel, Dialumen uses LEDs which emit cold and warm light alternately which recreates the natural effect of sunlight – perfect for making diamonds and gemstones really sparkle. A joint venture with the Swiss company will allow visitors to the stand to experience the innovation.

MQ Jewels

Stand E143 British born designer Marium Qaiser reveals her passion for gemstones in a collection of intricate, sculptural pieces that ooze glamour and femininity. While classic and vintage references are clear in her work, the pieces – in 18ct gold, gold plate, sterling silver and rhodium – also have a contemporary touch.

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LOVE

JOY

SHINE

SPARKLE

GRATEFUL

FREE

FEARLESS

TURNAROUND

INNER PEACE

For more information please contact DMJ on Tel: 01388 770 870

COME AND SEE US AT IJL STAND F81

or visit our website www.dmj.info


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Donald Clarke Stand F41 In sterling silver, Bella is the new collection of charm jewellery from Donald Clarke. All fitted with triggers for easy attachment to bracelets and pendants, the charms feature many stones as well as CZ, Murano glass, pearls and enamel. Also showcasing will be the Baby Bella range as well as a new line of stone set, enameled and plain stacker rings.

Stand F101 Rose gold combined with sterling silver creates intricate designs in Taormina, one of the four new lines in Nomination’s Argento collection. Positano using pearls and CZ; Amalfi – linked curves of sterling silver and Panarea with splashes of coral, lapis lazuli and turquoise make up the rest of the collection of earrings, pendants, rings and bracelets.

Julie Sandlau

Stand F81 Best known for her feminine shapes and colourful stones, red carpet favourite Julie Sandlau has created one of the strongest jewellery collections this autumn with her bold Deco collection, using black onyx and cubic zirconia. Distributed by DMJ.

Eastern Mystic

Hot Diamonds

Stand C44 Drawing on her Indian background, Britishborn designer (and ex-banker) Sonal TalgeriBhaskran has created a collection of strikingly glamorous, handmade pieces using gemstones, Fairtrade gold vermeil, 18ct gold and silver. From myths and folkore to Mughals and warrior princesses, the collections evoke the richness of her cultural heritage.

Stand G130 Celebrating its 10th anniversary with a return to IJL on a wow-factor stand, Hot Diamonds will be showcasing its new Black collection of design-led, statement pieces. There will also be a sneak preview of the new, militaryinspired men’s collection as well, of course, as the latest additions to the popular core range of silver and diamond gift jewellery.

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One Jewels

Stand E101 Launched last year, the One Jewels range of variable jewellery systems now includes over 30 new elements and discs to the concept, to give the line a new dimension. The new elements, which are crafted from plain silver or in combination with CZ, can also be used together with beads, for a totally flexible look for rings, earrings and necklaces.

Sheila Fleet

Stand A49 Following on from her Shoreline Pebble and Atlantic Swell collections, Orkney-based designer Sheila Fleet will introduce Rock Pool at IJL. Limpid blue enamel is encased in silver for the organically-shaped pieces.

a.b.art

Stand G48 This leather-strapped watch is one of the two new styles in Swiss brand a.b.art’s ladies’ collection. The wide, clear dial with just the quarter hours marked out is available with a choice of silver, black or red dial. Another style features a denim coloured square dial and strap.

Mounir

Design Gallery Stand C48 These sterling silver and 9ct gold chandlier earrings with a combination of freshwater pearls and lemon quartz, pink toumaline, prenite beads and cultured pearls are among the colourful array of jewellery from Mounir this season. Also included are brilliantly coloured pendants and rings featuring minaret cut facetted gemstones.

Belle Etoile Stand F81 This sleek and contemporary bracelet is from the new collection by Belle Etoile. Renowned for its use of enamel and contrasting colours, the statement jewellery brand will also be showing pieces in CZ, silver, quartz, mother of pearl and shell pearl – combined with fine Italian rubber. Distributed by DMJ.

So Jewellery

Stand A59 Short-listed for the Gift of the Year 2010 award, So’s Sphere pendants will see some new additions at IJL. The ’mix and match’ spheres will include diamond-cut, satin and high shine balls which can be combined or threaded ’solo’ on to extendable chains to create individual looks.

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Tel: 07884 002312 mail@5c-group.com - www.5c-group.com Stand G78

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Susie Warner Design Gallery Stand E16 In sterling silver and 18ct gold vermeil and embellished with gemstones, Susie Warner’s Objet Trouvé and Trousseau ranges draw inspiration from literature. The Secret Garden provided flowers, birds and mythical creatures, while the Regency novelette Evelina lends the romance.

Peter Lang Stand i69 Australian jewellery designer Peter Lang, whose collections are renowned for their darkly gothic, luxury vintage look as well as their celebrity following, will be launching his autumn collection at IJL. Gemstones, Swarovski crystals and pearls feature in this hand-made collection.

Silver Cherry Stand C59 Combining sterling silver with a mix of unusual gemstones, Silver Cherry jewellery is exclusively designed in the UK. The new, competitively-priced collection is inspired by nature and features intricate work.

Silver Willow Stand F28 The Stack Ring Co. offers a range of rhodium plated, sterling silver rings that can be worn individually but create individual looks when stacked together – using textured bands as spacers. Faceted gems, pearls, enamel flowers and love hearts in a variety of shapes and sizes add further statement touches. Step by Step

Stand G48 A mix of quality metals and rubber in a calm palette of black, red, silver, sand and gold creates a distinctive impact in this handcrafted Swiss collection. Necklaces can be worn long or wrapped around, while bracelets, rings, earrings and brooches make up the rest of this 1,000 or so piece range.

54 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

Ag Silver Stand C14 Ag’s Filigree collection has been expanded in this, the company’s 10th anniversary year, to include a detailed marquise set of pendant and drop earrings, which are available in plain polished silver or silver with 18ct gold finish. Also new this year are designs featuring stars, cobwebs and snowflakes.


IJL Preview |

Lily Blanche

Stand E89 Audrey Hepburn meets Lady Gaga is how jewellery designers, sisters Lyndsey Bowditch and Gillian Crawford, describe their Lily Blanche collection which uses sterling silver as well as freshwater pearls. Charms are a key part of the romantic and glamorous collection, including a globe which opens to take six photographs.

Trollbeads Stand F80 The original bead brand, Trollbeads continues to create new, intricate and highly individual beads for its legion of fans. Tones of green with silver and white and combinations of purple, black and gold with pearl and silver highlights are key features of the new Noir collection. ÂŻ

The Voice of the Industry 55


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Shaun Leane Stand G99 These silver hoops with black spinel leaves and pearls are from the new Blackthorn collection by award winning designer Shaun Leane. Also drawing on his love of nature is the Hawthorn collection with its sensual, fluid gold branches holding clusters of rose gold berries with citrine. The serpent collection is the new men’s line that combines silver with red and white gold.

Domino Stand G111 Domino’s dramatically expanded range now comprises around 1,500 designs. Unique to Domino are the finished jewellery and jewellery components in the Originals range in various set or un-set precious metals. Diamond necklaces, bracelets and earrings make up the Rosabella line; Siena offers dress rings, necklaces and earring suites featuring gemstones and Flow, with its organic shapes is available in all 18ct gold alloys and platinum. Also on show will be the concept pieces in the Trends and Fashion collection.

Mirri Damer Stand B20 In 18ct yellow gold with green sapphires, these Cluster earrings will be among the new collection being showcased in the Design Pavilion by contemporary designer/maker Marri Damer. Sculptural in form and with highlights of gemstones, the popular Bud and Pebble Stack lines will be joined by new designs this season.

Muru Stand E70 Winner of the Editor’s Choice Award at IJL 09, Muru is introducing a shot of colour to its design-led collections. The new silver styles feature chequerboard-cut stones (including facetted turquoise, lavender and jade) for cocktail rings and cluster charm necklaces. Also new will be a selection of sculptural silver pieces for charm bracelets.

Tocs Stand F81 Tocs – Timepieces of Colour and Style – is a new watch collection which will be launched at IJL this year. Fun, decorative and (in other cases) bright and colourful, the waterproof (to 100 meters) watches with silicon straps are ideal for the beach or as gifts. Distributed by DMJ.

56 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

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| BJA at IJL

An initiative supported by the BJA, KickStart was launched at last year’s show as a bursary scheme for fledgling jewellery designers. Acting as a commercial launch pad for the promising designers selected to take part, it provides a boost for the industry and allows retailers to discover some of the freshest design talent of 2010. Visitors to IJL this September can meet the designers and view their work on stand E49.

1 Nicole Akong

– used to sit at her desk in the City dreaming of doing something creative. Then, in 2008, a jewellery-making course revealed a hidden talent. The resulting designs attracted so much attention that she took a leap of faith and launched, Akong London, earlier this year. Nicole designs jewellery as fashion statements and status symbols. Each piece embodies the spirit of haute couture, using high-quality materials, constructed with extreme attention to detail.

2 Saretta – Creative Director, Sarah Bond – a trained anthropologist – founded Saretta with a vision to make wearable couture-style

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jewellery using ethically sourced precious metals and gemstones. Her experience working with local communities in Africa, Asia and South America led her to focus her attentions on promoting Fair Trade responsible mining for gemstones and bullion. Techniques including the lost-wax method, recycling metals and reforming give a unique finish to pieces created in silver, gold and platinum.

3 Daisy Choi – Clerkenwell-based jewellery artist designer-maker Choi has a background in 2D and 3D design, which is reflected in her work – combining the two to create playful yet functional jewellery. Her design

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www.jessicadelotz.co.uk

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ideas are inspired by everyday objects, and blend artistic expression with wearability. The new collections, ‘Diamond Temptation’ and ‘Best Before’, make imaginative use of precious materials such as18ct gold, silver, gems, rubber and porcelain.

4 Jessica de Lotz –

creates narrativebased jewellery which reflect on the ‘social lives’ of objects and their owners’ history.

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BJA at IJL | Inspired by her father, a military book seller with an ethos of ‘Make do and Mend,’ she believes that all the objects one needs are available already – just source them! Largely working in silver, she also specialises in hand carved mock ivory.

5 Momocreatura

– founded by Momoko Tamura, who initially studied fine arts and jewellery-making in Japan, this jewellery explores the boundaries between reality and fantasy through the depiction of fairytale inspired images. Influenced by European antique jewellery of the 16th19th century and post-war Japanese sub culture, she combines her references to create figurative macabre objects in hallmarked silver and gold.

6 Hannah Bedford

– these designs explore texture and form using the traditional processes of granulation, reticulation and fine gold fusing. Working in gold and silver, Hannah creates a range of jewellery, from bespoke neckpieces through to delicate earrings and rings. Inspired by organic growth patterns in the natural world, raised, textured surfaces entwine each piece.

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– is an independent jewellery designer-maker working in East London. Since setting up her business three years ago, she has sold increasingly by word of mouth as well as in galleries in London and Brighton. Her contemporary silver jewellery is versatile, easy to wear and affordable, with many ranges suiting both men and women. She draws inspiration from the natural world to create the simple clean shapes that are her signature pieces.

7 Poly Philippou

playfulness. There are tree major collections: Titanium Butterflies, Titanium Flowers and Wonderland, alongside other individual and bespoke pieces. The titanium collections combine silver and anodised titanium, for a range of bright blues and rich purples that, in contrast with the silk finished silver, achieve an individual and elegant look with a summery mood. The Wonderland collection features three-dimensional silver heart necklaces.

8 Christopher Anderson Design

– launched as a Bright Young Gem at IJL 2009, Daisy Knights is a Cotswolds-based jewellery designer whose timeless, wearable, nature-inspired jewellery, is combined with an infusion of punk and rock ‘n’ roll. Every piece is handcrafted using silver and gold vermeil. She also works on bespoke commissions in platinum, diamonds and gold. Passionate about ethically sourced materials she uses 100 per cent recycled silver as well as ethically mined gold and diamonds in her fine jewellery collection.

– works with CAD and his latest designs use an interlocking two part component in contrasting metal colours. His passions are the allure of gemstones, geometric and architectural forms, and the lustre of precious metals, as well as the contrast of colour. He works with silver, 18ct yellow and white gold and an array of coloured stones including sapphires, aquamarines, peridot, emerald, ruby, topaz, garnet and diamond.

9 Sian Bostwick Jewellery

– Sian Bostock’s handmade jewellery offers a fantasy, fairytale dreamscape style, combined with a timeless essence and grown up

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Visit www.jewellerylondon.com/kickstart to find out more about the initiative and the ten designers who will be taking part.

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The Voice of the Industry 59


| BJA at IJL

IJL – more than just a jewellery show...

Sutton Tools PUK 3S Professional Plus precision welder

International Jewellery London is a platform for fabulous jewels but, as these BJA members demonstrate, there will be plenty of other things on show guaranteed to cause a stir. t’s easy to get carried away with the glamour of it all at International Jewellery London and to forget that as well as providing a showcase for many different types of gems, jewellery and watches, this event also presents a wide range of jewellery services and ancillary products. And just as the jewellery develops year on year, so too do the tools, software, packaging and display with some truly innovative products making their debut at this year’s show.

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H.S. Walsh

UK retailers to present their customers with a huge range of virtual jewellery. Using an in-store computer to view some 2,000 different styles, retailers can change and develop designs on screen to match customer preferences and provide estimates. Once the customer is satisfied, the piece can then be ordered through Gemvision’s parent company Stuller and delivered complete and ready hallmarked within 14 days. “There is nothing like this available anywhere else,” enthuses, MD, Gary Baines. “The retailer doesn’t need to hold stock, or take the risk.” “When retailers sign up they receive seven samples in CZ and base metal and further samples can be ordered at a cost of £70 each,” says Baines. Customers can also view rings on screen using a virtual hand which can be sized to fit their own and shows the rings in scale with their finger size.

The big box story Tackling the large watch The trend for large watches shows no sign of abating and existing tools are not large enough to cope with the super-size fashion pieces that need batteries. To help retailers cope with the new generation of upscale watches H.S. Walsh will introduce a new range of bigger horological tools. “People always ask “What’s new?” says the company’s Barry Roberts “but in the tool world things simply change and adapt and these larger watch items are a perfect example of tools designed to meet the needs of the market.”

World first for Gemvision Gemvision’s new Counter Sketch Studio is a revolutionary software concept which gets its UK premier at IJL. Counter Sketch allows

60 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

It’s not just watches that are getting bigger. Obviously jewellery boxes are too, in order to accommodate the currently fashionable larger styles. Jewellers’ Box Company offers bespoke, leather boxes in a wide variety of shapes, sizes and colourways and the company anticipates particular interest in the commodious watch storage box design.

to effect repairs and so this welder, which costs £2,995 + VAT should prove extremely popular,” says sales director, Geoff Field.

Add a touch of colour Mel Barr, MD of the packaging and display company, Potters (London) Limited has also noticed a demand for bigger boxes and says that display pieces are larger too, particularly to accommodate the current trend for long necklaces. “There is much more colour than there used to be. The days of black and white or frosted acrylic displays are gone, having been replaced with bright pinks, lime greens and oranges. Jewellery is now much closer to fashion and our new ranges in both packaging and display reflect that fact. The recession has meant that presentation is more important than ever. If consumers have a little less to spend then a great box can really add value,” he says. Potters

Works like a charm Another fashion which continues to reinvent itself with each passing season is the charm, so a tool which reattaches these, without the need for a gas torch, flux or solder, is a boon. The PUK 3S Professional Plus precision welder from Sutton Tools (AIO9) is also ideal for retailers wishing to repair broken chains and bracelets, resize rings and re-tip claws. “Retailers need only basic training

At least 250 BJA member companies will be at IJL. Look out for the purple unicorn membership badge for your guarantee of quality and service.


BESPOKE DESIGN MADE EASY. Witness a worlds first, Gemvision’s revolutionary CounterSketch Studio will celebrate its official UK launch at the IJL show. Now you can offer bespoke design in your store using just four easy steps... 1. Search styles in a virtual range. 2. Customize those styles on-screen. 3. Order from a premier manufacturer. 4. Deliver a unique hallmarked piece in 14 days or less. See first hand how award-winning Gemvision technology can help you delight customers with a bespoke design experience at International Jewellery London Stand C101.

Be part of the official UK launch of CounterSketch Studio at IJL Stand C101

Leeds, England phone 0113 3899710 web www.gemvision.com email gveurope@gemvision.com The Voice of the Industry 61


East End Promise By the time the 2012 London Olympics are upon us, a thriving but hitherto largely undiscovered community of jewellery retailers, a shot putter’s throw from the stadia, should be familiar to a great many. Belinda Morris pays a (long overdue) visit to East London’s jewellery quarter.

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here’s a street in London where you’d be forgiven for thinking that every other shop is a jeweller’s; the pavements are heaving with window shoppers and serious spenders alike and there exists a positively heady vibe of consumer consumption – even mid-morning, mid-week. To use the modern vernacular – there’s a buzz about the place. No, it’s not Bond Street. It’s not Sloane Street. It’s not even Marylebone High Street or Knightsbridge. This is Green Street. Where? Exactly. Until very recently this bustling, rather unpromisingly unpolished thoroughfare in East London’s Borough of Newham, was the jewellery lover’s best kept secret. Here a thriving community of South Asian retailers of fine and fashion jewellery have been quietly (I use this term in a marketing rather than literal sense) going about their business for the past 30 or so years, without attracting much attention from the jewellery industry as a whole.

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And the wider general public has also been unaware of it’s attractions. I, an unashamed jewellery junkie, lived in not-so-far-away Camden for 20 years, completely ignorant of the existence of Green Street. Oh, the wasted opportunities! But all this is on the cusp of changing. The two score or so jewellers – who jostle for space among fashionable sari boutiques, beauty shops and salons, Bollywood DVD outlets and restaurants – having hitherto operated in their separate spheres – have recognised that there are major advantages to uniting. So, almost three years ago, the Green Street Jewellers Association was born. And with the Olympic games now looming pretty large – and just a few streets away – it’s just one reason why this band of brothers is making its presence felt today. In reality, there wasn’t a collective Road to Damascus moment the length and breadth of Green Street. The coming together was in fact the brainchild of a handful of the more pro-active jewellers and coralling the rest

Main image: colourful opulence displayed in Satyan’s window.


Feature | of them has been nothing short of a challenging labour of love for these individuals. It’s been tough, but, they say, it’s been worth it. Thanks to some exciting initiatives that can easily rival anything that the biggest global brands ever dream up (culminating in a starring presence at the recent London Jewellery Week) the jewellers of Green Street are now firmly on the map.

“Part of my responsibility is to encourage the other retailers (as well as consumers) to see Green Street as one of the jewellery quarters of London – a destination for fine jewellery.” To some it has always been on the map. “We have customers who come to Green Street from all over the world and until recently they were mostly South Asians,” explains Jayant Raniga, brand manager of the family business PureJewels and spokesman for and founding member of GSJA. “But today we are attracting a broader customer base. Part of my responsibility is to encourage the other retailers (as well as consumers) to see Green Street as one of the jewellery quarters of London – a destination for fine jewellery.” The size of the task and the weight of that responsibility is not lost on Raniga, who is actually sporting three hats. Maintaining the momentum of GSJA aside, he is also one of the directors of LJW (an initiative for which he feels huge enthusiasm) and of course has the small matter of the PureJewels business to consider. What began in 1950 as a bespoke jewellery design company in Kenya, created by his grandfather Bhanji Gokaldas and brought to Newham in 1975, is now, arguably, the most progressive jeweller on the street.

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Jayant Raniga and his father Ramnik at the Discover Jewellery party at London Jewellery Week

The Voice of the Industry 63


| Feature Traditionally, the Asian jewellery market has (and largely still does) revolve around 22ct gold, but Raniga is finding that just as the lines between fashion and fine jewellery (the company has a fashion jewellery shop, Bees) are becoming blurred, so too are the divisions between Eastern and Western desires and sensibilities. “We have a fastgrowing audience who want something different,” he explains, “but we also have a rich heritage of our own – which we want to celebrate.” Finding nothing quite right to meet this emerging market in either the UK or Mumbai, Raniga’s next step was a bold one by any standards, but particularly for an independent jeweller. Combining the desire to become a design-based brand and to introduce more white metal and diamonds into the store’s offer, PureJewels launched the Platinum Heritage Collection. Following a call to the industry, six leading British jewellery designers were commissioned to create platinum and diamond pieces that would reflect the cultural journey that the family had taken from India to England via Kenya. “It took an incredible leap of faith by

The first Discover Jewellery magazine, launched in June this year

Crafted from fine hammered platinum and accentuated with rubies and diamonds, these earrings by Anna Loucah depict a cobra guarding a lotus flower and form part of the Platinum Heritage Collection..

the designers – most of them had never heard of us or even Green Street,” says Raniga. The project had a focussing effect. “With regard to our brand direction, we made a conscious decision to be very precise about who we want to attract as a consumer – to move away from the scatter gun effect. It’s been dependent on our maturity of thinking.” The high profile nature of the designer collaboration generated the sort of attention that had a knock-on beneficial effect for all the GSJA members and also dovetailed nicely with the launch of Discover Jewellery, a consumer magazine produced by the Association. Aimed at introducing a wider public to this ‘new’ jewellery quarter, it’s an ambitiously glossy publication and definitely not the type one would expect to be created by a handful of ‘off-the-map’ retailers. I could name more than a couple of globally-feted retail thoroughfares that have struggled with just such an undertaking. Further proof that the GSJA has the clout, unity and recognition that was a driving factor in its establishment, is that one of the

“This is the way the industry should progress if we want the consumer to favour fine jewellery over a pair of Jimmy Choo shoes…” major events in the last (and generally very successful) LJW was the Discover Jewellery Show. Against the odds, the Association secured the sponsorship of Jaguar, which also provided its Knightsbridge showroom for the occasion. It is a coup of which Raniga and fellow founders Vikram Santilal, owner of Jeram Jewellers, Satyan Pala of Satyan Jewellers and Vijay Lodhia of Tulja Jewellers are particularly proud. “It was a huge statement for us to be in the über end of London – having come from the East End,” smiles Santilal, GSJA’s vice-chairman. “All of [our] achievements were the result of hard work and support from all the participating members,” adds Pala. “We have tried to think of different means to fulfill the objectives of the GSJA and all have been successful in their own ways. And with the

64 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

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| Feature success we hope to be able to have a greater role and continued recognition in London Jewellery Week next year.” Being viewed as integral to the London jewellery market is only part of the GSJA goal. “Being a second generation British Asian jeweller, it was very important to me to be part of the British jewellery scene,” explains Santilal. “The GSJA has given us a platform to tell our industry what we have achieved and what we have to offer. But it’s also about helping the industry in general,” he adds. “We found that there was no public-facing jewellery organisation that was campaigning to promote jewellery in the UK. “As the GSJA is made up of competing retailers it has become almost a normal practice to concentrate on strategies which are retail-facing. It’s a broader, wider vision – a win-win thing.” As Raniga puts it, “This is the way the industry should progress if we want the consumer to favour fine jewellery over a pair of Jimmy Choo shoes for example.” The GSJA seems such a united, cohesive and well-established body (Raniga even describes other (competitive) jewellers as ‘colleagues’) that it’s tempting to imagine that the setting up and running of it was and is a walk in the park. Not so. Despite the support of Newham Council (which the GSJA has an ‘excellent partnership’ with) and the enthusiasm (to a greater or lesser extent) of its members, there is still much to achieve in Raniga’s view. “It’s early days to measure its success,” he says, clearly not ready to rest on his laurels. He would now like to see the efforts of the retailers matched by progress on public domain areas – like street lighting – by the local authorities, who should now be able to justify making the necessary changes.

Movement through articulation and intricate details are among the elements that Jeram’s clients love. This rose gold and diamonds set are from the private client collection.

“I want to create a Green Street buzz so bigger luxury brands, like Folli Follie and Swarovski for instance, want to be here. We need a good mix.”

The History of Green Street • Established in Tudor times it has since seen wave after wave of migration over the centuries • The original native population of Celtic Britons was ousted by Angles, Anglo-Saxons and various Norse people • Green Street was heavily bombed in WWll and by the time of its regeneration in the 50s and 60s it was largely made up of Jewish settlers – most of them tailors. • The 1970s saw the arrival of the Asian communities, followed by Africans, Afro-Caribbeans, Irish, Turkish and Eastern Europeans. • Jewellery and sari shops have replaced the tailors • The regeneration of Green Street is entering a new phase in preparation for the Olympics

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“I want to create a Green Street buzz so bigger luxury brands, like Folli Follie and Swarovski for instance, want to be here. We need a good mix. We should have a Costa Coffee!” It’s getting there. Three years’ ago the Indian jewellery brand Joyalukkas which has 80 stores around the world, arrived on the street. It’s the nearest jeweller to PureJewels, aesthetically and geographically, but very much of the caliber that Raniga wants for Green Street. In the meantime his fellow retailers are more than content to reflect on the fact that Green Street could well be accepted as one of London’s jewellery quarters. “Three years’ ago I wouldn’t have believed it if someone had said this would happen,” says Santilal. “But as ever more immigrant communities become integrated in our society we will start seeing different styles and brands emerging. It’s really exciting and I’m highly I optimistic about the future.” The Green Street Jewellers Association members: Ambika, Bipin, Classic Jewellers, Daata, Danabhai Arjan & Sons, Dipesh, Gold Box, Henna, Jeram, Joyalukkas, Kyles, Pakeeza, PureJewels, Raj, Satyan, Sharads, Tulja, Unis, Zever


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| BJA Update

Jewellers to strut their stuff at Autumn Fair A dedicated jewellery catwalk will be one of the exciting new features at this year’s Autumn Fair International. We look at what a small selection of BJA members will have on offer at the National Exhibition Centre from 5th – 8th September. his year’s Autumn Fair will be 25% larger than it was in 2009 and will play host to no fewer than 247 jewellery and accessory businesses. One of the new attractions will be the ‘Accessories at Autumn Catwalk Café’ in Hall 4 created by Rah Productions, which launched the Pandora Catwalk Café to stunning effect at The Jewellery Show during Spring Fair International 2010. The decision to introduce a catwalk was taken by show organiser Emap Connect following an exceptional Autumn Fair last year, which attracted over 10,500 buyers of fashion accessories and highlighted the growth potential in this booming market segment.

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L Siren Call Siren Silver (Hall 4 K38) will be showing small, silver, cluster necklaces, little heart drop earrings and a new ethnic silver range as well as single tear drop pearl necklaces and chunky bracelets in amethyst, onyx or lemon quartz with baroque pearls. RRPs from £3.95 - £99.00. www.sirensilver.co.uk

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Raising the bar Rodney Holman has been at the cutting edge of fashion jewellery for over 35 years. This stunning, high-quality bar bracelet is part of a new collection of haematite plated fashion jewellery to be launched at the show. (Hall 4, Stand G02). RRP £27.50. www.rodneyholman.co.uk

Perfect harmony This hand-crafted pendant from the ‘Live in Harmony’ collection in sterling silver and brass from Peace of Mind (Hall 4 Stand H20) is highly tactile and provides the perfect statement accessory. RRP £25.00. www.pom925.com

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Flirty feathers Martick Jewellery (Hall 4 K30) continues to deliver on-trend, commercial jewellery. The ‘Feather’ collection combines sterling silver with Murano glass blossom beads and fresh water pearls RRP £35.00. www.martickjewellery.com

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Stacks of style The ‘Stack Ring Co’, a division of Silver Willow (Hall 4 L30/M31), offers a range of interchangeable rings in rhodium plated 9.25 silver. Choose from faceted gems, enamel flowers, stars, love hearts and textured bands. RRPs from £27 per ring. www.silver-willow.com L Very vintage Balagan’s (Hall 4 Stand G10/H11) Vintage collection is feminine, romantic and glamorous with pieces that evoke a number of different eras. All items come packaged in a 1950’s style ‘Powder Puff’ box. RPP for pendant £54. www.ballagan.co.uk

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| Ethical Jeweller

Taken into Custody Michael Hoare discusses the complex issue of Chain of Custody systems and whether such an initiative should and could work for the jewellery industry. ver the last decade we have become familiar with the theory, if not the detail, of the work undertaken by bodies such as the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), whose label provides a credible link between responsible production and consumption of forest products, and enables consumers and businesses to make purchasing decisions that benefit people and the environment. Established in 1993 as a response to concerns over global deforestation, FSC is widely regarded as one of the most important initiatives of the last decade, promoting responsible forest management worldwide. Other examples abound but FSC is probably one of the more visible providers of internationally recognised standard-setting, self trademark assurance and those interested should visit www.fsc.org. Its work is evidence of a worldwide shift in the ethical responsibilities of supply chain partners. Now it may be the turn of the jewellery industry to re-evaluate its supply chain responsibilities. Starting with the wake-up call of ‘Blood Diamond’ in the late 90s, the last 10 years have seen a flood of initiatives targeting the jewellery sector with calls to embrace social and environmental responsibility for its

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supply chain. Initiatives like the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), Fairtrade Gold, Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), No Dirty Gold, CAFOD’s Unearth Justice Campaign and others have left the average jeweller feeling increasingly confused about their response to the complicated world of ethical and responsible jewellery. The mass of data, the complexities of the

argument, the press speculation and conjecture and pressure from NGOs, have left many with severe information overload. Particularly SMEs! The idea of a scheme that ensures products are clean and carry a recognisable logo showing that they are from reputable sources would be highly attractive to many. However, anyone familiar with the complexity of the supply chain that brings even the simplest of jewellery products to our shops knows the enormity of that task. But it is a concept that is being mulled over by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC). The question being asked is, ‘what is the feasibility of developing a standard and process for independent, third party certification of chain of custody systems in the jewellery supply chain?’ But what is a chain of custody system? Technically it comprises a set of technologies, procedures and documents that provide information about each step of the supply chain. Certification offers independent attestation that the system meets a standard. And that standard usually sets out minimum requirements for the design and operation of a chain of custody system, for the purposes of certification.


Ethical Jeweller | Technologies which support chain of custody systems usually enable physical product and/or custody to be tracked, and include radio frequency identification (RFID), inscription, material fingerprinting, digital imaging of stones, and documentation systems. However the individual technologies, while important, are merely enablers and not the system itself. The RJC is well positioned, having established agreed standards and an assurance system covering responsible business practices across the entire jewellery supply chain. Launched in 2009, the system certifies members’ business practices, but it does not certify products or their movement through the supply chain. If developed, RJC chain of custody certification could provide a common, mutually recognised, industry wide platform that could be accessed to support claims about sourcing. The RJC’s role would be to develop a standard for chain of custody systems and systems for assurance, via independent third party verification by accredited auditors. Ideally the standard would meet international requirements, but still remain flexible. The challenges are immense. Even setting aside technical constraints, cost, scalability, and political and legal concerns, the size of the task may still be too great. The scale of possible unseen, unintended consequences is not inconsiderable, and offering products with chain of custody claims carries with it a negative implication for generic products. However chain of custody systems are not without precedent, and such diverse commodities as GMO soybeans, paper pulp, renewable electricity, and fish, are already monitored from source to end user.

A key point is that the products of multiple supply chains, such as precious metals and gemstones, combine, transform and converge into a single product – a jewellery item for consumer sale. This creates a quite different chain of custody prospect... Whichever model is chosen, the outcome must be robust, not anti-competitive, cost effective, auditable, and above all else, clear and transparent. A tall order indeed! The jewellery supply chain can be thought of as a series of handling and processing stages that begin with raw materials and end with final jewellery products sold to the consumer. It is also complex and fragmented. Raw materials may come from multiple sources in many different countries; they may be sold several times, mixed, and converted into new products before being sold to the end consumer. The gold market is much larger and more geographically diversified than diamonds. The role of gold as a de facto currency means that the supply chain is usually more complicated than

Chain of Custody Models • Track and trace: traces product from source (producer, region or country), physically segregating and tracking it through supply chains. Example: Marine Stewardship Council (MSC) fish. • Bulk commodity: physically segregates certified from non certified product to prevent mixing, but does not trace back to product origin. Example: GMO and non GMO soybean. • Mass balance: each company keeps track of the amount of certified product it buys and sells. So while there is no physical segregation, there is administrative segregation. Example: Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) credit system for mixed sources of paper. • Book and claim: The trade in physical products is completely decoupled from the trade in certificates. Usually a central ‘Issuing Body’ is responsible for issuing and redeeming traded certificates. Example: renewable electricity. Source: Responsible Jewellery Council

diamonds, and at the micro level supply chains for different jewellery products can vary considerably in scale. A key point is that the products of multiple supply chains, such as precious metals and gemstones, combine, transform and converge into a single product – a jewellery item for consumer sale. This creates a quite different chain of custody prospect than that of a single provenance product such as fish, paper or coffee. There are a wide range of chain of custody systems in operation across various industries and product types. Generally, however, they can be categorised into four main models: track and trace, bulk commodity, mass balance, and book and claim (see table). All four are designed to drive improved production practices, though each model has different management approaches. Key issues are transparency and clarity – the objective being avoidance of confusion or deception. The jury is still out, and no decision has been made about when, whether, or even if, RJC will go ahead with this massive undertaking, but early indications are that it would find favour in some quarters. Not least because, if a methodology can be agreed, a chain of custody system could add immeasurably to clarity within the supply chain, giving retailers the concrete assurances about sources of supply that they seek, and in turn allowing them to sell to customers with authority.

The Voice of the Industry 71


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Hong Kong Pavilion

Halls 3B & 3C

Halls 3C, 3D & 3E

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European, American & China Pavilions, Antique & Estate Jewellery Halls 3F & 3G

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| Insurance Matters Using polycarbonate glass will provide substantially improved protection for the thickness of glass used. Remember polycarbonate glass is only as good as its framing. It needs proper installation in the correct type of high quality frames to be at its most effective.

Window Back Security

Smash and Grab Many jewellers have quite high values in their windows. Strength of security glazing is mainly provided by the type and thickness of the inter layer. he traditional security anti-bandit glass, to the old standard BS5544, is made up of a 1.5mm layer of a plastic substance called polyvinyl butyrate (pvb) and for many years this, in various forms, was the best that could be provided. It comes in various thicknesses: 7.5mm, 9.5mm and 11.5mm as standard, plus various multiple laminates building thicker and thicker glasses until one reaches the lowest bullet resistant standard

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Old British Standard

European Standard EN 356

glass thicknesses, having a standard of BS6206 and having only half the thickness of plastic inter layer. They are designed to stop persons being injured by shards of glass, not to prevent attack. Safety glass should not be installed within jewellers’ display windows. An improvement in security can be obtained with polycarbonate glass laminate (Poly C) as shown in the table below.

Thickness mm

Interlayer

Interlayer Thickness mm

No. of blows with a fire axe resisted*

6.4 / 8.8 / 10.8

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30-50

P7B

28 / 16

PvB PolyC

51-70

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36 / 18

PvB PolyC

Over 70

‘Safety Glass’ BS5606 ‘Security Glass’ BS5544

* Before a hand-sized hole is created

at 36mm. However, bullet resistant standards in this material are far too heavy for most display windows and frames. It's important to be aware that 7.5mm security glass is far stronger than 10.8mm or 8.8mm which are common laminated safety

74 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

As a rule the minimum quality of glass which should be installed within your display windows is to European Standard EN356:P4A with a minimum thickness of 11.5mm. However it is highly recommended that glass to the P6B standard is installed.

Most of a jeweller’s value is in the display windows. You should have good smash and grab protection… but what are the window backs like? In many armed robberies window backs are forced or the window backs themselves are smashed. In many cases jewellers have light weight locks that don’t resist any force; light weight frames to window backs and just plate glass. Even if you can get 7.5mm anti-bandit glass into your window backs, with some decent locks, such as Abloy or Bramah, in a good frame, that will slow the criminals. This is particularly true where your risk is spread over a number of such windows, each of which has to be forced individually. For traditional type locks it is preferable for one key to be able to operate all locks,

You can have the best window back locks available, but they will only work if used! which should be carried by members of staff on their person. It is also recommended that these are slam shut for easier locking. Hidden electronic locks with a key fob to open are useful. If you have sliding doors, make sure that they cannot be lifted or jemmied out of their rails and if they are unframed sliding glass, that the locking system does not simply allow one sheet of glass to be forced past the other. You can have the best window back locks available, but they will only work if used! Therefore ensure they are always kept locked except when staff are directly moving stock in or out of the window back area. T.H. March & Co Limited is a family-owned firm of insurance brokers founded in 1887 with offices in London and nationwide. The company covers household, motor, life and protection, travel, commercial and scheme insurance. Visit www.thmarch.co.uk


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| Insurance Matters

Damage limitation – an open and shut case Insurance broking isn’t solely about premiums and excess payments – it’s also about taking care of your business. The issue of shop security is taken very seriously indeed… pening and closing your premises may be one of those things that you could do with your eyes closed, but it’s a vital part of your day and, should you become complacent, it could be a worse case scenario for your business. The principle of opening with two people is instilled into all of us; one standing aside to observe the opening, the other entering the premises preferably without safe keys, unsetting the alarm, checking the premises, and giving a signal to the other that all is clear. The door should be kept locked during this time, except for the admission of known staff until the window is dressed. The first keyholder should observe the other members of staff approaching the premises to ensure they are not followed. Although this routine is well known, there have been cases where it has not been followed and

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76 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

this has produced disastrous consequences. Ten years ago we would have said that opening and closing hold ups were the major source of loss – that is no longer true, but when they do happen, they tend to produce very major losses. There are arguably four main scenarios where opening and closing goes wrong: • Opening or closing by yourself with a full set of keys and alarm codes. It still happens and shouldn’t!

standing well clear, preferably across the road, but where he can still observe and use a mobile phone or mobile PA. • Admitting staff who are followed into the premises, either accidentally or under duress. This is a difficult one. Staff need to be alert to anyone near the premises who might follow or coerce them, and be trained to turn away or walk past the shop if there is any perceived risk. Alternatively, they should liaise by phone with staff already in the shop and wait for the suspects to move. Having alerted staff already within the premises, it may be practical for them to control the door against being rushed. • Jewellers dressing or undressing the display windows still admit customers, postmen, police, etc. You must not. Even if you know the person, they may be under duress or may be followed in unexpectedly. The time between stock being in the safe and in the window is the most vulnerable, because it is so concentrated and easily stolen, and any loss in these circumstances is likely to be high. Another useful, though not always practical, deterrent is an airlock entry system – it not only decreases the opening and closing risk, but also significantly reduces the hold up and snatch risk. At its simplest, an airlock entry system is an entrance lobby for customers and staff, with an outer door and an inner door where both doors are controlled by electric release locks, and only one door can be opened at any one time. Obviously installing an airlock with a plate glass door and/or plasterboard partitions may deter an unprofessional thief and some of the kids who try snatches, but it will have no effect on a planned serious robbery. Although there are many different ways of installing an airlock, clearly structures of this type cannot be installed in most shops without major upheaval. They are something

The time between stock being in the safe and in the window is the most vulnerable, because it is so concentrated… •

The second person standing too close to the first person entering so that both are caught up in the same criminal attack. The second person should be

you need to plan for on the next major upgrade of your shop front, or if you have suffered a serious robbery and cannot take the risk of insurers’ reaction to another.


The Voice of the Industry 77


| Regular

Notebook

Where to go, what to read, what to see…

Books Breitling Highlights, by Henning Mutzlitz (£12.95, Heel through ACC Publishing Group)

Part of a series of titles on luxury watch brands by this author and published by Heel in Germany, this book should be required reading for any stockist of Breitling watches. But more than just a useful reference work that outlines a hundred of the most remarkable models – with incredibly clear and detailed images – it also tells the history of the legendary Swiss company. Founded

Jewellery & Watch Trade Fairs September 3rd-6th: Eclat de Mode by Bijorhca, Porte de Versailles, Paris, France Fashion, fine jewellery, watches and fashion jewellery. www.bijorhca.com 5th-8th: International Jewellery London, Earl’s Court 2, London The UK’s premier dedicated jewellery trade fair, with close to 500 exhibitors, designer sections, seminars etc. For full details see the IJL Preview feature on p.40. www.jewellerylondon.com/nag 11th-15th: VincenzaOro Choice, Fiera de Vicenza, Italy Around 1,600 exhibitors showing their latest jewellery collections for the different trade sectors. www.choiceevent.it 12th-14th: Top Drawer, Olympia, London Fashion, jewellery and strictly-vetted, designled gifts for Christmas and beyond. www.topdrawer.co.uk. 12th-14th: London Gift Fair, Olympia A new event aimed at retailers looking for

78 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

in 1884 by the 24 year-old Leon Breitling, the brand established itself as a pioneer in many areas of time-keeping development and in particular as the watch of choice for pilots in the first world war with the creation of the first independent chronograph technology. Read it… and learn. Patek Philippe Highlights, by Henning Mutzlitz (£12.95, Heel though ACC Publishing Group) Synonymous with exclusivity, luxury and grand complications, this venerable Geneva-based company actually had its beginnings in Poland with one Antoni Norbert Patek de Prawdzic, a young officer

last-minute Christmas stock ideas – slightly less design-orientated than Top Drawer. www.londongiftfair.com 12th-14th: Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre http://exhibitions.jewellerynetasia.com/ exhibitions/default.asp?siteid=5 October 8th-11th: Jewelers International showcase, Miami Beach Convention Center, Miami, USA The largest independent jewellery trade show in the Americas, showcasing leading global manufacturers and wholesalers. www.jisshow.com

who took part in an uprising against Russian occupancy – which eventually led him to Geneva. First employed as a reassembler for watchmakers, he eventually started his own company and later joined forces with a Parisian watchmaker Jean-Adrien Philippe and in 1851 Patek & Co became Patek Philippe. Thereafter came a succession of ‘firsts’, including what was most likely the first wristwatch in the history of Swiss watchmaking. Read it… and yearn. The Jewellery of Paul E Flato, by Elizabeth Irvine Bray (£45, ACC Publishing Group) At the height of his career American jewellery designer to the Hollywood stars was more famous than even Tiffany and Harry Winston. This gorgeously illustrated book by GIA graduate Elizabeth Irvine Bray features examples of his work and studio images of the socialites, heiresses and starlets who wore them. A fascinating insight into the man and a must for lovers of costume jewellery at its best.

treasures to be seen at this exhibition that gives a picture of the man who ‘conquered the world’ by the age of 30. (image from the State Hermitage Museum, St Petersburg) www.hermitage.nl 28th: Important Jewels [N08667] Sotheby’s, New York 23rd-29th: Origin, Old Spitalfields Market, London Part of London Design Festival, this juried event will present the best of craft talent, including jewellery. www.craftscouncil.org.uk

12th-14th: Dubai International Jewellery Week, various locations, Dubai The region’s premier exhibition for jewellery and precious timepieces. www.jewelleryshow.com

Sales & Exhibitions September Now-18th March 2011: Alexander the Great. Hermitage Amsterdam These gold, hessonite and glass Greek earrings (right), circa 2BC, are among the

Continues on Page 90


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on all orders over £250

Come and visit at our BRAND NEW STAND at IJL. To view our extensive jewellery range, please visit us at stand H110 International Jewellery London or telephone Curteis

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The Voice of the Industry 79


| Antique Jewellery I n

a s s o c i a t i o n

w i t h

F e l l o w s

&

S o n s

Antique JEWELLERY Romance, scandal and the ‘Royal’ jewels The love affair between Edward VIII and American divorcee Wallis Simpson caused one of the greatest scandals of the early 20th Century, resulting in only the second ever abdication from the British throne. Only slightly less thrilling than that tale, says Jo Young, is the story of Simpson’s incredible jewellery collection… twenty pieces of which go under the hammer at Sotheby’s this November. he romance between the British King Edward VIII and the American divorcee Wallis Simpson still ranks as one of the most controversial episodes in 20th Century British history, and is certainly the biggest scandal to have befallen the modern royal family. The facts of the story (or, at least, the contemporary version of the story) are well known, but in brief: shortly after coming to the British throne in January 1936, the former Prince of Wales proposed marriage to Wallis Simpson, a married woman with whom he had then been involved for a couple of years. Simpson was, as far as the upper class social conventions of the day allowed, just about the most unsuitable paramour for a senior British royal as could be imagined. An American socialite, divorced from her first husband (but crucially still married to her second at the time she began her affair with Edward), Wallis was, fairly or unfairly, almost universally disliked by a British populace – and popular press – that demanded youth, sexual innocence and social naivety in its prospective Queens (you know, the kind of stuff they thought they’d found in doe-eyed Diana Spencer in 1981 – but that’s most definitely a whole other story). Though many

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80 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

of the more outlandish rumours that circulated around Simpson were later revealed to be untrue, she was nonetheless disapproved of sufficiently by the establishment to have made her becoming Queen seem, in 1936, unthinkable. Ruby, Sapphire, Emerald, Citrine and Diamond Clip, mounted by Cartier, Paris, 1940, designed as a flamingo in characteristic pose, created by Jeanne Toussaint for Cartier (Est. £1,000,0001,500,000 – Sotheby’s Windsor sale)

Abdication The British Prime Minister of the time, Stanley Baldwin, told Edward that the marriage would never be accepted and that he faced a choice: give up Simpson; marry her without ministerial consent (thereby forcing the resignation of the government and triggering a major constitutional crisis) or abdicate and do whatever he pleased. Edward chose the last option, and on 10th December 1936 signed over the throne to his brother, Prince Albert. Edward had held the throne for a total of just 325 days, one of the shortest tenures in the country’s history, and was never actually formally crowned. The funny thing is, Edward VIII was a notorious womaniser prior to his meeting Simpson. He had already scandalised his family by enjoying several dalliances with married women, and spent his early years generally having a fine old time of it as a footloose bachelor. This perception of Edward as a fun-loving, self-indulgent brat, a perpetual adolescent, seems at odds with the image of a tortured King sacrificing such a seat of power and influence. Indeed, some observers have suggested that Edward may never have really been that interested in the responsibility of the throne; others still have implied that such a monumental fit of pique could only have been exercised by just such a spoilt royal, entirely unused to not getting his own way. For her part, Simpson was thought to have been aghast at her amour’s insistence on abdicating. Having always openly confessed to an “insatiable ambition”, Simpson begged the King not to abdicate, believing that she would come to be accepted by the British establishment in time and seemingly actually fancying herself as Queen. Rather tellingly, both she and her husband remained furious throughout their lives about her having been denied the ‘HRH’ Royal title after the abdication.

Simpson’s jewels Whatever the truth of Edward and Wallis Simpson’s relationship and individual personalities – and the rather grubby tales of their being Nazi-sympathisers, for which we really don’t have room here – there is one thing that is known about Simpson, and that is that she simply loved jewellery.


Antique Jewellery | A simple but highly valuable ruby and diamond bracelet, also by Van Cleef, also formed part of her collection by the jewellery house. Containing 40 Burmese rubies, the bracelet was said to have been a gift from the Duke to Wallis upon her agreeing to divorce her second husband and marry him. There was a matching necklace, again in rubies and diamonds which, in 1939, was reset into a collar, with what was then a highly fashionable removable tassel added. Another significant Van Cleef piece, a sapphire and diamond bracelet known as the contract bracelet, was also bought by the Duke as a gift for his fiancee. This time the gift, which he gave to her in May 1937, was bought to mark the fixing of their wedding plans and date. The bracelet is in the shape of a wrist band, with a series of cushion-cut sapphires shaped into a ‘bow’ at its centre.

Cartier Naturally, given her love of top designer jewellery names, the Duchess owned a lot of pieces by Cartier, almost all of which were gifts from her husband. One of the most significant of these was a ring that was given to Wallis Simpson upon her ‘engagement’ to the Duke. The ring, by Cartier, features a 19.77 carat Columbian emerald, and once belonged to the Mughals. The ring was reset in 1958 in a leaf design, with each leaf added The Duchess of Windsor, photograph by Cecil Beaton © The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby's

He faced a choice: give up Simpson; marry her without ministerial consent (thereby forcing the resignation of the government and triggering a major constitutional crisis) or abdicate and do whatever he pleased. Even before they were married – back in the early days of their affair in the mid-1930s – Edward VIII showered jewels upon his mistress with the kind of generosity one might only expect from a man enjoying an opulent life on a lavish retainer.

Van Cleef & Arpels The Duchess’s jewellery collection numbered over 200 pieces, which came from some of the greatest jewellery houses of Europe, but of those, she (or perhaps the Duke?) did have favourites. Several pieces in the collection came from Van Cleef & Arpels, including a rather nice ‘Holly Leaf’ clip, made from rubies

and diamonds, which the company made using a new invisible setting technique (it has been said that the technique was created with this clip). One of the first of the notable pieces of jewellery the smitten Duke gave Simpson was designed by the company’s senior designer Paulette and comprises two adjoining leaves, one set with rubies, the other with diamonds, with a central ‘vein’ on each that is made up of a single row of thin baguette diamonds. The real excitement about this piece though is the invisible setting: all the stones are held in by small ‘grooves’ in the back, and no gold is visible from the front of the piece.

Wallis Simpson had something of a penchant for bejewelled animal brooches and other pieces – such as this panther pin, set with precious stones and pearl.

The Voice of the Industry 81

¯


| Antique Jewellery containing a brilliant-cut white diamond. Cartier also made the ruby and diamond bangle that Wallis received as a first wedding anniversary gift; the bangle contained two large cushion-shaped Burmese rubies, surrounded by diamonds and featuring a cross-over clasp. Cartier made a series of animal brooches for the collection, all set with precious stones. Among these were a black enamel and diamond cat, and two tigers, one made from gold and white diamond and the other rendered in sapphires.

Diamond Bracelet, by Cartier, c. 1935, designed as a single row of spectacle-set brilliant-cut diamonds, supporting nine gem-set Latin crosses, each engraved with inscriptions. From the Sotheby’s sale. Est. £350,000-450,000

The story of how Wallis Simpson ended up owning a piece of jewellery that had previously belonged to the Maharaja of Baroda – a well-known collector of important gemstone jewellery – also involves the Harry Winston company. The Maharaja had sold an anklet (a commonly worn piece of jewellery in the Indian sub-continent then as now) to the US jewellery firm, which then sold on the piece, converted into a necklace, to the Windsors in 1953. Curiously (and

fetched $3.15m at the Geneva sale, but prior to this was worn often by the Duchess. Here, clearly, was not a woman who endorsed a rule of modesty in her accessorising…

A love of pearls The Duchess apparently held a particularly strong affection for pearl jewellery – as well one might when one stands to inherit the kind of pieces that she did. One of the loveliest pieces of jewellery the Duchess owned

Emerald, Ruby and Diamond Brooch, by Cartier, Paris, 1957, of heart-shaped design. To commemorate the Duke and Duchess of Windsor’s twentieth wedding anniversary. From the Sotheby’s sale: Est. £100,000-150,000

Wallis Simpson’s jewellery represented the very best design work by the major jewellery names of the age, rendered in the very highest quality materials and gemstones.

One of the most genuinely romantic pieces of jewellery in the collection was also produced by Cartier; this was a bracelet comprised of nine crosses, all made from platinum and diamonds and each one given to mark a specific occasion in the couple’s life together, from their first meeting to a ‘get well’ cross when she underwent surgery.

presumably somewhat sniffily?) Simpson refused to wear the necklace again after she discovered it had previously adorned the ankle of the Maharani. Also in the 1950s, the couple became the owners of the 31.26 carat McLean Diamond,

Harry Winston Wallis Simpson began collecting jewellery from the famous American jewellery house early on in her marriage, and some of the most notable pieces from her collection were sold to the couple by the firm. In 1948, they were sold a pair of pear-shaped, fancy yellow diamonds weighing a staggering 40.81 carats and 52.13 carats, which were designed into lapel pins, and later matched with a pair of Harry Winston brilliant-cut yellow diamond earrings.

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a blue-white colourless cushioncut brilliant diamond that had been bought by Harry Winston from the estate of the heiress and socialite Evalyn Walsh McLean (as part of the same lot as the Hope Diamond). Believed to be a Golconda stone, the McLean diamond eventually

was a single row of 28 pearls, held with a diamond clasp, that itself features 9.190 grain, diamond-topped pearl. She inherited the necklace from her mother-in-law Queen Mary via the Duke. Queen Mary wasn’t, by the way, Wallis’s biggest fan, despite the rather nice hand-me-down: along with the rest of the Royal Family, Mary had declined to attend Onyx and Diamond Panther Bracelet, by Cartier, Paris, 1952, the attenuated and articulated body designed to encircle the wrist and to assume a stalking attitude. (Est. £1,000,000-1,500,000 – Sotheby’s Windsor sale)


Antique Jewellery |

This single row of 28 natural pearls held with a diamond clasp and featuring a 9.190 diamond-topped pearl, was inherited by the Duchess from her mother-in-law Queen Mary, via the Duke.

the couple’s wedding, which was held – she thought as a deliberate slight – on the anniversary of her late husband’s birthday in 1937. In any case, the necklace itself was one of the prizes of Simpson’s collection, which she wore to her husband’s funeral in 1972. This magnificent strand of natural pearls was eventually bought by the fashion designer Calvin Klein for his wife Kellie at Sotheby’s Geneva sale; the necklace was sold on, again at Sotheby’s, twenty years later in 2007. According to Sotheby’s, this strand of pearls – the drop pendant of which measures 18.4mm – “has no equal”. What makes the Duchess of Windsor’s jewellery collection particularly notable in the context of Royal jewels is, quite simply, the fact that she owned them. According to the protocol of monarchy, the vast majority of Royal jewellery is only worn by the reigning family and remains, in actual fact, State owned. It was this fact of ownership that helped bring about one of the most memorable and talkedabout jewellery sales of recent decades when, following Wallis Simpson’s death in 1986, the whole of her spectacular collection was first put up for sale in Geneva.

The Geneva sale Perhaps curiously, the Duke had apparently held strong views about what should happen to the Duchess’s vast collection after her death. He felt that no other woman should be able to wear the pieces that she had worn, and his plan for the jewels involved having every precious stone removed from its setting and stored away after her death. Rather luckily for the collection the Duke died before Wallis and her own plan for her 214-piece jewellery collection – that it should be sold off and the proceeds donated to AIDS research – was put into place when she too eventually died.

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Antique Jewellery | The sale, held in April 1987, was one of the most important of its day. The Duchess of Windsor Collection, as it was pitched, attracted over 1,000 bidders, who crowded into the tents erected next to Lake Geneva especially for the sale, with a further 600 buyers lined up in the New York Sotheby’s showroom. All the important pieces were up for grabs, and the whole collection fetched $53.5m. (The highest price for a single item was nearly $3.15m, paid for a diamond ring designed by a Japanese jeweller). Overall, the amount raised for Wallis’s jewellery was the highest price ever reached, worldwide, for a single-owner jewellery collection. There were a couple of reasons why the sale attracted the degree of attention that it did. The first reason for the sale’s importance is the sheer breadth and quality of the collection, which was fairly spectacular. Wallis Simpson’s jewellery represented the very best design work by the major jewellery names of the age, rendered in the very highest quality materials and gemstones. It was a beautifully complete showcase, if you like, of antique pieces and 20th Century jewellery fashions. A second, and perhaps no less significant reason for the curiosity and keen excitement elicited by the collection, however, was the story of the couple who’d accumulated it, which has found particular currency over the

years among American buyers. Unlike in the UK, where the Wallis Simpson story is one of scandal and bad behaviour, the Windsors’ relationship is often billed in the US as the ’greatest love story ever told’ (no, really). To many American jewellery collectors, the Windsor romance is a true fairytale – indeed, a very significant proportion of the buyers at the Geneva sale were based in the US, among them Calvin Klein and Elizabeth Taylor, the latter of whom was a friend of the couple. Certainly one can see why their relationship might fascinate people in a country where royalty maintains a steady appeal. It is, after all, the tale of the King who gave up immense wealth and power – his crown – for “the woman he loved”. I

Whittaker’s World The inexorable advance of Live Bidding! This morning there was such a paucity of interesting news that they had to discuss Broadband speeds on Radio 4’s Today Programme – but maybe it isn’t that irrelevant to our daily lives? Pages (and indeed magazines) are dedicated to the internet – it enables us to communicate quickly with clients, and it helps us provide a myriad of information that we cannot print in a catalogue (without significantly improving my printer’s choice of holiday destinations). The internet also provides us with a real time live bidding facility which is increasingly being used by both trade and private buyers alike – time is a valuable asset and people don’t necessarily need to travel to the auction room to buy an item. Worryingly, the internet buyers get a live camera feed of the auctioneer’s face while he's ‘doing his bit’ – for which I can only apologise in advance! Like all technologies, ‘success’ isn’t always guaranteed – during a recent auction a systems failure ‘up the line’ from us caused the live bidding facility to fail just before the ‘star lot’ of the day – the sense of glee from some of the buyers in the auction room was almost palpable. And indeed technology isn’t without its financial costs. However, it is a facility which seems to be here to stay and, judging by its popularity, will have an increasing effect on the auction world. I just wonder what will be the next ‘technological advance’ that they invent to test us with… and to send us cap in hand to our bank manager? Stephen Whittaker is the Managing Partner of Fellows & Sons, specialist auctioneers of Jewellery, Silver, Watches and Fine Art based in Birmingham’s Jewellery Quarter. He can be contacted on 0121 212 2131 or stephen@fellows.co.uk

Fellows & Sons

(Est. 1876)

Forthcoming Auctions

• Secondhand Jewellery & Watches – Thursday 9th and 23rd September, Thursday 7th and 21st October • Antique & Modern Jewellery – Thursday 2nd September, Thursday 14th October • Silver, Plated Ware, Coins & Medals – Monday 6th September • Costume & Silver Jewellery & Novelties – Monday 6th September • Wrist & Pocket Watches – Monday 18th October A catalogue is available at www.fellows.co.uk or by post. Online bidding is available at www.invaluable.com/fellows This gold brooch is one of the many pieces in the collection to be produced by Cartier.

For further information please call Heather Bailey on 0121 212 2131.

The Voice of the Industry 85


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NAG to launch online training at International Jewellery London and scenarios to help them retain the information. Students will have their own area where they will be able to write their assignments, send them to tutors and access their feedback all in one place. They will also be able to access further learning resources such as recommended reading, helpful websites and even book tutorials. “It is very exciting” adds Wingate. “We have really been able to explore how we present the training and add another dimension to the learning, which can only help students become better sales people in the long run.” Students will be able to access the course from anywhere once they have enrolled, as long as they have internet access and a web browser. “It means students no longer have to have their course notes with them to study. They can study any time anywhere. It could really change the way some students work their way through the course” says Wingate. Some things will not change, however, as she explains. “Our tutors are really what make he NAG will launch its training courses online with a champagne reception at this year’s IJL show. An online version of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma (JET 1 and JET 2) promises to not only make education and training more accessible, but to also enhance the learner’s experience. “The success of our online students’ group clearly shows an adjustment in the way that students want to learn,” says Victoria Wingate, NAG Education and Training manager. “By placing both JET 1 and JET 2 online, students get the best of all worlds. They will

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still receive the same high standard of information and expertise through our course notes, but they will be able to access this information far more quickly and easily and the way in which they study will be far more interactive.” Students will still enrol for the courses in the same way, but rather than wait to be sent hard copies of course notes, they will be given an access key to login to the course. There they will be able to download the course notes as a whole or by chapter and work through specifically designed activities

Students will be able to access this information far more quickly and easily and the way in which they study will be far more interactive.” the JET courses so special. Their combined experience is incredible, so we certainly did not want to do anything to jeopardise that aspect of the training.


Education + Training |

First Bransom JET 1 Project Award winner announced he NAG and Bransom have announced that Aaron McCrone of Laing’s Jewellers, Glasgow, is the first ever recipient of the Bransom JET 1 Project Award. McCrone will receive a certificate and be invited to the NAG’s prestigious Presentation of Awards at Goldsmiths’ Hall, not normally open to JET 1 students. “I’m very happy and proud, not only to win, but to be the first to win this award,” says McCrone on learning of the honour. “A colleague won the Greenough Trophy this year, and it just goes to show how committed Laing’s of Glasgow (and in particular, our manager Elaine) is to training and education”. All JET 1 final assignments are automatically entered for the prize and the winner is chosen by tutor Eddie Stanley, who marks the final projects. “This script was by far the best example of using the diamond product knowledge in a retail jewellery selling environment,” explains Stanley. “The sales situations demonstrated wisdom in using the technical knowledge about diamonds to gain a positive conclusion to a sale. The assignment showed imaginative thinking regarding the repair and restoration of the diamond ring brought in for repair”. Chris Garland of Bransom who launched the new award at the Association’s AGM in June says: “we wanted to get involved because we believe in education and supporting the next generation of jewellery professionals. By encouraging the best performers we hope it will raise the overall level of achievement and final grades.” Students who successfully complete all five assignments of JET 1 to a satisfactory standard will be awarded a JET 1 certificate and are then entitled to continue on to JET 2 and the completion of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma. For more information on the JET courses, visit the NAG’s website at: www.jewellers-online.org or call 020 7613 4445 (option 1). To learn about Bransom visit: www.bransom.co.uk

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“Students will still be assigned individual tutors, who will monitor and guide them through the course, although the way in which they contact their tutor may change as the new system will make it even easier.” Also, JET 2 students will continue to take examinations in person. “Obviously it is vital that we maintain the high academic standards for which we are known,” Wingate clarifies, “and the best way to do that is through a sit-down examination. There will be the facility for revision and mock exam

papers online, however, so it will certainly help candidates prepare for their exams.” Visitors to the NAG stand will be able to access the online courses for themselves. “We are definitely planning a much more high-tech stand than recent years,” adds Wingate, “because the best way to tell people about our online training is to show them. They will see for themselves just what training online will cover.” The online courses will be available throughout IJL with the official champagne

launch taking place on the NAG stand (i90) on Monday 6th September 2010 at 1pm. The launch will form part of a packed programme of education events for the NAG at IJL, including the unveiling of the new Professional Jewellers’ Business Development Diploma (JET Pro) and the final celebrations for the 65th anniversary of NAG education and training. To learn more telephone: 020 7613 4445 (option 1), email: jet@jewellers-online.org or visit the NAG stand i90.

The Voice of the Industry 87


THE CHRISTMAS HOLIDAYS ARE TOO LATE....

....TO START TRAINING YOUR STAFF START NOW TO SQUEEZE EVERY DROP OUT OF THE FESTIVE SEASON A student who enrols on the first part of the Professional Jewellers’ Diploma now could have finished by this Christmas and could have passed JET 2 and mastered all the practical skills that a retail jeweller requires by next Christmas.

OUR CONTACT DETAILS The National Association of Goldsmiths 78a Luke Street, London EC2A 4XG Email: jet@jewellers-online.org Tel: 020 7613 4445 (Option 1) Download a JET Course prospectus at www.jewellers-online.org


Education + Training |

JET Pro targets managers Miles Hoare discusses the NAG’s new management-focused education package and what this means for future managers in the jewellery industry… n the January issue of The Jeweller, the NAG’s chief executive, Michael Hoare, discussed the industry’s need to continue updating training processes. He commented on the necessity for education in the jewellery industry to reflect “the advancement in internet sales, visual merchandising and ever-changing population profiles.” With this in mind, the NAG sought to find an effective, industry-appropriate and flexible way in which to “harness the expertise of experienced people” and find a course structure that better fits “the needs of students and the industry”. Eight months later, and the NAG is set to add another string to its bow, with the introduction of its new managementfocused course, Jet Pro.

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“This program is for the future leaders of our sector and once again NAG is leading the way”. The course has been developed by Mike McGraw, founder director of Development Initiatives Limited, in conjunction with the NAG. When asked to summarise Jet Pro, McGraw describes it as “a modular mid to high level distance learning course which covers all the main levers a retail jeweller needs to pull to have a sustainable and profitable business.” The course offers a flexible six-module program, which “can be taken as a full suite with a diploma at the end, or taken as discrete modules to plug an individual’s skills gap”, states McGraw. These modules will include: Market Awareness and Managing Financial Variables; Customer Management; Maximising a Team’s Potential; Professional Operations Management and the art of Business Promotion. The flexibility of the modules, explains McGraw, allows the course to complement the JET 1 & JET 2 programmes, but means individuals can still study Jet Pro, without

having previously studied JET 1 or JET 2. As he points out, “It can be seen as the next step up from JET 1 and 2 but there is no stipulation for either of these to be completed first.” McGraw believes this industry-recognised qualification will allow individuals to become “better skilled in business management and more likely to take on greater management roles”, while companies will benefit from staff “who can take on more responsibility and contribute better to the business.” Keen to outline the benefits of the new course, Victoria Wingate, education manager at the NAG, explains how “many jewellers were looking at ways to further develop senior staff – particularly those who had been with a company for a number of years and had completed many of the trade courses available”. She goes on to say that, “JET Pro isn’t just for those in management positions – it’s suitable for anyone who wants a greater understanding of the retail jewellery business.” She feels that the introduction of Jet Pro gives those people “a great flexible programme that will further develop them in specific areas according to the needs of the business in the current retail environments.” Michael Hoare answered the questions raised back in January by stating, “This is an important development that plugs a perceived gap in our provision”. Today he praises the fact that now, “we have a course for young people in the industry who show management potential but need help defining the scope of their future role and responsibilities. This program is for the future leaders of our sector and once again NAG is leading the way”. Visitors to the NAG stand at IJL will be able see JET Pro for themselves. It will be available to view throughout the show, with the official champagne launch taking place on the NAG stand (i90) on Tuesday 7th September 2010 at 1pm. Call 020 7613 4445 (option 1) or email: jet@jewellers-online.org

Forthcoming NAG Seminars Essential Selling (London) 28 September 2010 Nigel Amphlett will provide this specialised seminar aimed at improving your selling style, helping you to beat targets, convert sales and gain repeat/referral business and improve your confidence with customer queries or concerns. Course Fees: Members £208 + VAT Non-members £269 + VAT

Essential Window Display (London) 14 October 2010 Aimed at those new to display and providing instruction in the theory and practice of display. Learn to promote buying occasions by creating appropriate displays of stock. Given by jewellery marketeer Judy Head the seminar includes practical window display sessions. Course Fees: Members £208 + VAT Non-members £269 + VAT

Eric Emms’ Diamonds & Diamond Grading (London) 19-20 October 2010 An intensive two-day ‘hands on’ seminar to develop knowledge of practical diamond grading and gem diamond quality. Delegates will examine loose polished diamonds of various colours and clarity qualities and learn to identify natural diamonds, diamond simulants, treated diamonds and gemquality synthetic diamonds. Course Fees: Members £375 + VAT Non-members £512 + VAT Contact Amanda White on: 020 7613 4445 or email: amandaw@jewellers-online.org

The Voice of the Industry 89


| Letters

Letters to the Editor have become increasingly concerned about the way in which the public view our trade. This shift in attitude is dramatically shown in one particular forum thread: http://forum.shoppingtelly.com/forum/show thread.php?t=21814 – but is by no means a unique story. The thread starts out asking for opinions on a specific valuation company but quickly starts to explore jewellery valuation in general. The overall conclusion theme is that: • insurance companies aim to fleece you. • retail jewellers do not know very much. • valuation conclusions have more to do with setting the level of the valuer’s fee and serving the jeweller’s or valuer’s prejudices or bias. • retail jewellers will act on ‘sour grapes’ with Shopping Channel purchases or items purchased from a competitor (foreign or local). • there is no need to get anything valued because your insurance company will cover it anyway. I hear variations of these themes from private clients. In asking why they came to me specifically, some of the above beliefs pop up on a regular basis. By coincidence, I heard number two in the list only today. Welcome to the views of Mr and Mrs General Public, my friends. This is NOT GOOD for the jewellery trade. There is no smoke without fire and I would encourage all to look at some of these firmly held beliefs that the public have and see if there is anything in their business that could have contributed to it. In days gone by, customers would probably form their opinions through direct experience and if bad, would probably, at most, moan to their spouse or a friend about it. Now it is a different story – an aggrieved customer has easy access to forums where their grievances can be aired in the heat of the moment to millions and a seemingly limitless number of very willing ‘sufferers’ are on-hand to rush in with supportive similar stories.

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90 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

Got something you need to get off your chest? Rather than let it fester, air your views here, as one unhappy valuer has done…

Sometimes, even the slightest ‘mishap’ at front-shop level grows into a big misconception of the trade in the public mind. For instance, the other day a member of the public checked my website and decided to have a valuation carried out by me via one of my retailer customers in her home city. She took a single item from a collection that she had recently inherited. She asked the jeweller if she could have it valued, the assistant replied “For insurance?” My client said, “No, just for my own interest”. The retailer then replied, “We don’t value for ‘own interest’”. She was confused and disappointed, so ended up driving a 100mile round trip to come and see me. With a little bit of empathy and asking a few pertinent questions, the jeweller’s assistant would soon have realised that this young lady had never had any jewellery valuations carried out before and was unfamiliar with the terminology and the process. With a bit of gentle probing they would have found out that in fact she did need a Valuation for Insurance Replacement. They also would then have realised that this single item was an important diamond pendant with a 2.33ct central diamond and about 12.50ct of diamonds surrounding, and this is the first piece of an entire collection of similar items yet to come from Switzerland as part of her inheritance. More importantly, they would have prevented the client leaving their business thinking that all jewellers are condescending, haughty and really don’t know very much. Yours in depression, Adrian S Smith FGA Independent Jewellery Valuer, Scotland If any readers have experienced similar situations with customers or have views on the issues outlined in this letter, we would very much like to hear from you. Please email the editor, Belinda Morris: bmorris@colony.co.uk

Notebook (Continued from page 78) 27th-10th October: Goldsmiths’ Fair, Goldsmiths’ Hall, London EC2 Internationally acclaimed show offering the public the chance to view the best modern jewellery and silverware from Britain’s leading makers. www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk/events/ October

1st-31st December: For Honour & Glory. Treasures of Napoleon. Antwerp Diamond Museum Two centuries after Napoleon came to Antwerp, this exhibition shows how Le Petit Corporel used decorative arts and an arsenal of diamond jewels to display his power and retain the loyalty of his entourage. For more information contact: info@diamant.provant.be Sunday 3rd October: Annual Beadwork & Bead Fair, Uxbridge College, Middx. As well as handmade, vintage and collectable beads, tools and books, the fair will include demonstrations and exhibitions. www.beadsociety.org.uk 14th-17th: Brussel`s Jewelers Fair, Indigo Studios, Brussels A new exhibition showcasing the work of contemporary jewellery designers. www.brusselsjewelersfair.be


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NAG Institute of Registered Valuers R

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IRV Email Group Round-up A couple of the topics that have recently been doing the rounds on the IRV Email Group.

A National Treasure? One group user asked for some help with a value for a Britannia silver tankard made by Timothy Ley in 1698, in good condition weighing 948 grams with interesting contemporary engraving, bearing in mind its provenance. He was able to confirm from the engraving that the tankard was presented to a scientific titled gentleman in the late 1600s and was accompanied by a signed form from what was the Inland Revenue, stating that ‘due to national interest’ this item, subject to certain conditions, was exempt from Inheritance Tax. What effect, he asked the rest of the group, might the ‘national interest’ have on the value? The tankard has been in the hands of a wealthy Home Counties family for over 100 years and the death of the grandfather has precipitated the request for an insurance valuation as the tankard has now been bequeathed to the grandson (who is carrying on the family business and requires,

92 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

effectively, an insurance valuation as he is now responsible for it). The requirement for the item not to be sold or exported should mean that Capital Gains Tax should not become payable. The inquirer also mentioned, as a footnote, that the family had a valuation from a West End of London jeweller dated 1983 for £1,500, but this was of the then common two-line variety and made no mention of the Inland Revenue letter which was current at that time. This jeweller had ‘renewed’ the valuation subsequently – the latest in 2004. He was satisfied that the tankard was genuine and in excellent condition but his

main query was the ‘national interest’ part of it. Possibly, if it should ever reach the open market, this might attract bids from museums and/or colleges. Coupled with private dealers and collectors this could increase the figure quite markedly. One fellow group user had recently been asked to value a similar tankard of this period and with interesting provenance, for a university, which, following research, he had valued for £50,000 (ARV). Another suggested contacting the Keeper of Metalwork at the British Museum to ask him to confirm or deny the ‘interest’ aspect which might assist in the obtaining of a realistic estimate from auction contacts, upon which a valuation might be based. A further response suggested not to be unduly influenced by the ‘national interest’ if, as stated, there is a requirement for the tankard not to be sold or exported. He suggested concentrating on the present value under the present conditions and not to speculate upon what it might be worth in the future on the open market. The group user was grateful for his fellow users’ input and reported that after much discussion with the family and having regard for the many telephone calls he had also received, he reached an ‘agreed value’ with


IRV Review |

the family, their solicitors and their insurance broker of £50,000. This sum will now be used to insure the item. (The tankard’s last ‘agreed value’ in conjunction with a large auction house had been £20,000 but this was some years ago.)

The Appeal of a Micro Mosaic Brooch Advice from fellow jewellers was sought by another emailer, on the value to place upon

as far as an auction price was concerned although he confessed he had not seen anything like this go through recently. Another confessed that he had sold a micro mosaic clasp for £200 trade not so long ago (far too cheap, but glad to be rid of it – he had had it forever, paid next to nothing for it etc., a tale many jewellers must be familiar with!). The purchaser believed they could get £300 or so selling to the trade. Another user had found on Fellows’ website an impressive Victorian mosaic pendant (auction date: 20th May 2010) described as follows, “A Victorian ornate micro mosaic pendant, comprising a central circular micro mosaic panel depicting a humming bird with further outer micro mosaic patterning and scroll detail to the suspender. Length of pendant: 6.8cms. Weight: 14.49 grams.” This had had an

Another confessed that he had sold a micro mosaic clasp for £200 trade not so long ago (far too cheap, but glad to be rid of it – he had had it forever, paid next to nothing for it etc., a tale many jewellers must be familiar with!). a micro mosaic brooch/pendant (correctly termed a tesserae – coloured glass with wirework and a gold setting) which was part of a large valuation for insurance (with no history or provenance). The user thought the brooch might date from around 1860. There were no marks but she believed it to be 18ct gold, measuring about 60mm from the top of the bale to the bottom of the pendant and weighing 11 grams. The front was in immaculate condition and it came in a fitted case with the inscription ‘GALLANDT – ROME’ (see photograph). Unfortunately her searches on the internet for further information on the company had been unfruitful, as had searches on various auction house websites for a point of reference. Her initial thoughts were in the region of £600 at auction and she asked if any of her fellow valuers thought she was way out. One respondee noticed that from other accompanying photographs that there appeared to be some soft solder on the back – so the piece was not perfect. However, he felt she was in the right area

estimate of £800 to £1,000 and had been eventually sold for £1,500. Another user had found on a West End of London retail jeweller’s website, “A Victorian micro mosaic pendant, the fine oval micro mosaic central panel depicting two pink doves with spread wings against a spray of convolvulus on a red background, within a border of blue and white flowers, applied

with rope and bead work decoration, the reverse bearing the name ‘ROMA’ in 10mm high relief letters to a scrollwork mount, opens to reveal a glazed compartment with silk backing, chain hoop decorated with scroll work, circa 1860, measuring approximately 56 x 30mm, gross weight 23.2g.” which had sold for £4,950. Group user and Loughborough lecturer Gail Hislop MIRV advised the group that a micro mosaic pendant will generally have more value than a brooch particularly as many of the brooches were very large, thus not so in tune with today’s jewellery fashion. This is, however, primarily a collector's market so the value will be

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dictated mainly by condition of the mosaic and the mount; subject; and most importantly, by the size of the individual tesserae and how skilfully the design has been executed – broadly the smaller tesserae were used earlier and the execution and design better than later – very late ones can even be quite crude and use much larger tesserae. She could not be sure of the size of the tesserae in the user’s brooch, but she felt it looked reasonable and the design was most attractive. The most common designs she has come across are ‘Pliny’s doves’ (two doves at what looks a bit like a bird bath), also St Peter’s Square in Rome, followed by various famous Roman ruins. They tend to have limited value. Because of the condition of the back of the user’s brooch a serious collector might not want it, but because it is a pretty piece (and in 18ct gold) a figure of £500 to £700 would be about the right price in the trade. Auction prices, when it comes to ‘collectables’, are so varied according to who has spotted it and who is bidding, so it would be difficult to pin a price down there. The fact that it appears to have its original box is a plus. The group user was grateful for the input of other valuers. She confirmed that it had taken her a while to resolve, in as much as she had already carried out quite an extensive search before coming to the group for advice. There are considerable variables in the ‘going’ and ‘selling’ price for these items,

94 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

mainly dependent on design, quality and condition. She too had found that views are common, dog designs are fairly common, doves less so – and swans can be very dear. But this design appears not to be readily available, and would probably

command a slight premium for that. It is a stunning piece. Her patience and persistence was finally rewarded, as she eventually managed to find a similar brooch (similar size and comparable design with a later added bar, sold together with a moonstone brooch) which sold at a Bonham’s auction (in Oxford in June) for £984 (including buyer’s premium), and shortly after she found another for sale on an American website for £2,500 (a similar item of slightly better quality but somewhat comparable), however she was unable to vouch for the seller’s integrity and did not know their mark-up. She admits that trawling through countless websites isn’t cost effective, but sometimes it’s a necessary means to an end. Sadly she couldn’t furnish the group with the name of a reliable resource for micro mosaic brooches, as she simply searched for comparables adopting a lateral strategy searching various ways including ‘18K micro mosaic brooch’ and eventually (by chance) I found the American site.

Loughborough 2010 The NAG’s Institute of Registered Valuers Loughborough Conference Saturday 18th to Monday 20th September We are still accepting bookings for the ‘must-attend’ event for jewellers and valuers: the NAG's Institute of Registered Valuers Loughborough Conference taking place at our usual venue, Loughborough University, over the long weekend of Saturday 18th to Monday 20th September. This year’s line up of expert guest speakers include Peter Buckie, David Callaghan, Brian Dunn, Eric Emms, Doug Garrod & Claire Mitchell, the Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, Alan Hodgkinson, Tracy Jukes, Barbara Leal, Mike McGraw, Heather McPherson, Don Palmieri, Pravin Pattni, Thom Underwood & Ian Jukes, Terence Watts, Geoff Whitefield & Haywood Milton and Stephen Whittaker. You won’t find this many experts in one place anywhere else! The Conference is open to anyone in the trade, whether you’ve been in it for more years than you care to remember or are just starting out. This Conference has something for everyone. The Conference is available on a residential or non-residential basis. We encourage you to attend the whole event but you are still welcome if you can be there only for part of it. A brochure and booking form is available from Sandra Page on 029 2081 3615 or at: irv@jewellers-online.org The IRV Conference is supported by Bransom Retail Systems Ltd, Fellows & Sons Auctioneers, the Gem-A, the Guild of Valuers & Jewellers, T H March & Co Ltd and Quantum Leap.


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APPOINTMENTS Head Office Appointments – Hendon, London NW4 Jewellery Production Assistant • Administrating jewellery manufacture, special orders, customer repairs, etc. • Liaising with suppliers, workshops and Pravins’ sales staff • Pricing and labelling of stock and data entry into our stock system

• Assisting the Director in diamond sourcing, buying and pricing • General administrative duties including costing, stock control and liaising with suppliers/workshops and sales staff

Both jobs require: • good communication skills

• Quality control

• the ability to work under pressure

Diamond Sorter / Buyer • Checking, sorting and grading diamonds and other gemstones • Picking, measuring and matching diamonds for jewellery production

• computer literacy (Microsoft Office essential) Generous rewards and the space to develop and grow are on offer for the right candidate. Pravins is a family-owned business, established 40 years, specialising in high-quality diamond jewellery.

Please send your CV and a handwritten covering letter to: Personnel Department, Pravins Limited, P.O. Box 35563, London NW4 4YX or send an e-mail to: hiten@pravins.co.uk We regret that we are unable to respond to unsuccessful candidates. No agencies.

www.jewelleryjobs.com A selection of our current vacancies… Retail

General

• Leading Bond Street jewellers require top class sales people with good and active client lists; languages an advantage – excellent salaries and benefits

• High end watch brand requires a watch brand manager based in the South East, must have experience at a senior level and used to dealing with key account clients and managing a small team. Dynamic and enthusiastic, French speaking an advantage

• Chinese and Arabic speaking sales people required in Bond Street and Knightsbridge • Salesperson for leading jewellers – West London • Manager for leading jeweller in Surrey required • High end diamond sales people and management required in the West End of London • Gallery Manager wanted for a leading jeweller in Kent, previous experience required in high end jewellery and/or watches • Manager wanted for prestigious new boutique opening in Mayfair. Must have West End experience and have an existing client base with good watch and fine jewellery experience. Must be proactive and able to build and maintain client relationships • Sales people and Assistant Managers/Manager Designates required throughout the country, particularly Manchester, Leeds, Liverpool, Chester, Birmingham, Glasgow, Edinburgh and the South East

• Customer Service Coordinators, Sales Administrators and After Sales Service Managers are currently being sought in London. • Luxury watch brand seeking a Marketing Manager capable of handling, Marketing, Media planning and buying, PR and events. French speaking an advantage but not essential • Essex Company needs an experienced setter; Yorkshire company needs a very experienced mounter • As always, qualified watchmakers, ideally Rolex-trained, required throughout the country

All enquiries treated in total confidence. For more information on national opportunities visit our website. Contact Katie or Grant on tel: 01756 753 or e-mail: jobs@jackson-maine.com

JACKSON MAINE

The Recruitment Specialists to the Jewellery & Watch Industries

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D I S P L AY C A B I N E T Amber Jewellery

Computer Systems

Diamond Dealer

Diamond Dealer

Diamond Dealer

Diamond Jewellery

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The UK’s Leading Loose Diamond & Jewellery Wholesaler

We offer a complete and efficient service for all your wholesale diamond needs at the best prices. Visit www.villamarts.co.uk to find our daily updated stock list of certificated diamonds.

For a quick quote or to arrange a meeting call:

020 7417 0260 / 0261 32-34 Greville Street, London EC1N 8TB

Diamond Setters

Diamonds & Gemstones

For Sale Jewellery Studio for sale in the heart of Western Australia’s southwest. • Shows consistently strong growth every year since being established in 2002. • Stock consists of a high quality handmade range supplemented with selected suppliers. • Would suit manufacturing jeweller, husband/wife team. • Well positioned, lucrative business. • Owners looking to semi-retire. • Further information on enquiry. Contact Mary: baroque@westnet.com.au

Gemstones

Jewellery Labelling Systems

Jewellery Manufacturers


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D I S P L AY C A B I N E T Jewellery Repairs

Pearls & Gemstones

Pearl Restringing

A-Line Jewellery • • • • • • • • •

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Handmade jewellery All setting including channel, pavé etc. Repairs of all kinds Polishing, rhodium and black rhodium 18 carat and platinum ring mounts CAD and laser work undertaken Diamonds and coloured stones supplied Over 30 years experience Postal service

• The complete restringing service

to the trade for over 60 years. • Experience, quality and service

at reasonable prices. • Full insurance. All urgent repairs by return. Call David or Stephen at Agars Ltd Port Hall Mews, Dyke Road, Brighton BN1 5PB Tel/fax: 01273 540330 Email: steveagar@hotmail.com

Ground Floor, 22 Hatton Garden, London EC1N 8BA Tel: 020 7405 7684 Email: info@a-linejewellery.co.uk

Platinum

Precious Stones, Beads and Pearls

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Shopfitting

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(est. 1946)

Member of the British Jewellers’ Association

rolex specialist

Is your Rolex watch braclet stretched and worn?

At BQ Watches we can make it look brand NEW

We now specialise in the repair and refurbishment of Gold Rolex Watch Bracelets

Call now for a FREE Quotation

020 8953 4575 bqwatches.com Shopfitting

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D I S P L AY CABINET I I I I I

C l e a r, u n c l u t t e r e d d e s i g n One uniform size One great value price Volume discounts available Free ad design service

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| Regular

The

Last Word A key speaker at the forthcoming IJL show, jewellery designer Stephen Webster reveals all in our probing questionnaire. Personal Profile Stephen Webster is the founder and creative director of the internationally-heralded eponymous jewellery brand. His dramatic creations with glam-rock attitude have won him a stellar client-base (the likes of Madonna, Sharon Stone, Elton John and Johnny Depp) as well as numerous prestigious awards (some of them many times over). From his jewellery manufacturing and design studios in London’s West end, the company has expanded globally with 200 points of sale as well as Stephen Webster boutiques in such cities as Moscow, Osaka and… Marbella. In 2008 he was appointed creative director of Garrard, Crown Jewellers. Last year he opened a flagship store in London's Mount Street and received the Honour of Liveryman of the City of London. How would you describe your personal style? I love clothes by John Richmond and Ozwald Boateng but lately my favourite designer is a new label called Blak Wren – I guess all of them have slightly quirky designs, something a bit different to the norm. My favourite item of clothing though has to be a Vivienne Westwood coat given to me by my good friend Mick Jones of The Clash who said “Stephen, I think it will look better on you than me…” I wear it every winter.

Where is your favourite holiday destination? Why? Last year I took a road trip along Route 66 in my 1959 Thunderbird with my friend Jeff. I was planning it for a few years as it’s very difficult for me to take so much time off but when it finally happened it was an amazing and exhilarating experience that will stay with me forever.

98 The Jeweller Aug/Sept 2010

What three words describe you best… in your view and according to others. Rockstar without portfolio Looking back at your career, what one thing would you do differently if you had your time over? Perhaps my limited education; I left school at 15 which was pretty normal then but I now see the huge benefit a few more years at school would have done me. Equally, my kind of stubborn, single-minded focus on being a craftsman is a bit of double-edged sword. There are times when my attention to detail can be a bit time-consuming! If you could change one thing about the jewellery industry, what would it be? We have to do a lot of soul searching over the next few years. The ‘excess’ years are over for sure and even as we enter a more stable period the obvious displays of wealth look to be a thing of the past. The future looks bright and thankfully the more creative, beautifully crafted and provocative the piece, the brighter it looks all round. Do you know the price of a pint of milk? No… I probably wouldn’t eat if it wasn’t for my wife.

To what do you attribute your success? When I studied at Medway I had one thing in mind – to make jewellery to the best of my ability. I guess I have always strived to be the best I could be. I’m a perfectionist. I am involved in every aspect of the business: from design, to point of sale, shooting the ad campaigns, our events and the stores. Tell us something not many people know about you… I’ve run six marathons with a personal best of 2 hours 47mins. Favourite shopping destination (shop, street, city or country) It has to be Mayfair's Mount Street, London. We now count ourselves among the sensational line up that comprises the street. If you hadn’t gone into the jewellery trade, what career would you have chosen? I just did an episode of Project Runway in the US. If Harvey Weinstein offers me any other TV work I will jump at it! Quick fire (no deliberating, straight off the top of your head please) • Red or white wine? Red • Football or cricket? (team?) Football – I have a season ticket at QPR. • Diamonds or coloured stones? Coloured stones – our crystal haze technique using the most vibrant of coloured stones put us on the map. • White or yellow metal? White. • TV or radio? Radio 4 in the office. • Bentley or Roller? Rolls Royce. • Delegator or control freak? Control freak. • Fish and chips or Chinese/Indian? Fish and chips • Beatles or Rolling Stones? The Stones


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The Jeweller Magazine August/September 2010 Issue