Thrive Skin Institute
Eyelash Extension
Training Manual
Eyelash Extension Certification:
Training Course Curriculum
Anatomy of the Eye Common Eye Infections Allergy Awareness & Irritations Contraindications Stages of Hair Growth Safety & Sanitation Types of Eyelash Extensions Length, Curl & Diameters Proper Taping & Prep Steps Isolation Adhering & Placement Corrective Lash Application Eye Shapes & Styling Client Consultations Client Release & Consent Forms
Thrive Skin Institute Adhesive Knowledge Client Aftercare
Eyelash Fill Education Extension Removals
ANATOMY OF
THE EYE
The eye is a complex optical system - very similar to a camera. Vision begins when light enters the eye through the cornea, a powerful focusing surface. From there, it travels through clear aqueous fluid, and passes through a small aperture called the pupil. As muscles in the iris relax or constrict, the pupil changes size to adjust to the amount of light entering the eye. Light rays are focused through the lens, and proceed through a clear jelly-like substance in the center of the eye called vitreous, which gives it form and shape. When light rays finally land on the retina, the part of the eye similar to film in a camera, they form an upsidedown image. The retina converts the image into an electrical impulse that travels along the optic nerve to the brain, where it is interpreted as an upright image. However, this amazing optical system is not immune to infection or disease, so it is of paramount importance that you have your clients fill out a medical health form before the procedure. This will enable you to assess your client’s suitability for the procedure. If you are unsure about a client’s condition, advise them to seek medical approval from their doctor.
COMMON EYE
INFECTIONS
Eye infections occur when harmful micro-organisms - including bacteria, fungi or viruses - invade any part of the eyeball or its surroundings. Here are some common eye infections and disorders: CONJUNCTIVITIS OR “PINK EYE” is an infection in the eye that causes inflammation of the conjunctiva, CONTRAINDICATIONS which gives the eye a red or pink color. BLEPHARITIS is an inflammation of the eyelash follicles, usually due to bad hygiene. Allergies, mites, dandruff and certain medications may also increase the likelihood of this inflammation.
A contraindication is a factor which prevents a client from being suitable to have treatment; this is usually a medical condition. Contraindications can be permanent, temporary or area specific. While having some contraindications may mean a client isn’t suitable at all for a certain treatment, others may be worked around, for example:
ALLERGIC CONJUNCTIVITIS is when exposure to allergens, like mold spores or pollen cause your eyes to become watery, red and itchy.
■ A client with a contagious disease should not have any sort of treatment performed on them to avoid cross contamination. This contraindication will only last for the period of time that the client has the contagious disease.
DRY EYE occurs when the eyes do not produce enough tears. It can be caused by environmental factors, dry eye syndrome, or some medications.
■ If a client has booked for a massage, but the client has a cut on their skin, this cut would be a contraindication, but the treatment could still go ahead. The therapist would simply avoid the area with the cut.
STYE OR HORDEOLUM is a red, painful bump or inflamed area on the eyelid. It is typically caused by bacterial infection of the sebaceous glands at the base of the eyelashes. DEMODEX OR EYE MITES are tiny bugs that are described as a parasite. They are found in the pores and follicles of the eyelashes. They have short legs, claws and mouth parts and can cause infection and inflammation.
Please remember that your client does need to have natural lashes to be a suitable candidate for eyelash extensions. Anyone who has lost their eyelashes, for example, alopecia sufferers or chemotherapy patients, cannot have eye extensions. This is because there would be nothing to attach the synthetic extension to, and the professional adhesives must not be used to stick lashes to the eyelid. Eyelash extensions adhesives are acrylate adhesives, and must be handled with caution.
ALLERGY AWARENESS
& IRRITATIONS
WHAT IS AN ALLERGY? An allergy is an over sensitivity of the immune system to something that many people have normal interactions with daily. Symptoms of an allergy to the adhesive may include red, puffy eyes as well as itchiness. These symptoms will last until the adhesive is removed and can worsen with time and exposure. Think of somebody you know with a peanut allergy - each time they are exposed to peanuts, their reaction gets worse and worse. This is because our bodies’ immune system is constantly adapting and building up antibodies to fight off the allergen. The more your body is exposed to the allergen, the stronger and more dramatic the allergic reaction. For this reason, you should not put lashes on clients with prior allergic reactions to the adhesive. TREATING AN ALLERGIC REACTION If your client thinks it is an allergic reaction to the adhesive, and not just an irritation, they can take antihistamine medication that will help the symptoms subside before the lashes can be properly removed. If the antihistamine works, you can be confident it was an allergic reaction. WHAT IS AN IRRITATION? An irritation can mirror many of the same symptoms of an allergy, so it can be very hard to decipher what is happening. Irritations usually stem from the fumes given off by the adhesive as it solidifies or dries. Individual gas molecules of cyanoacrylate leave the adhesive and can cause red, puffy eyes and make the sclera (the white part of your eye) red and itchy. The difference is that irritations usually don’t last longer than 24 hours, and should get significantly better as time passes. One exception to this is if your client has seasonal allergies. Lash extensions can contribute to the symptoms of the seasonal allergies when you already have very sensitive, irritated eyes. LIMITING IRRITATIONS Limiting the amount of fumes to which your clients are exposed will best help you recognize the difference between an allergic reaction and an irritation. If you can ensure that you used proper techniques, and followed safety procedures, irritations should be limited and less severe.
PRODUCT & ALLERGY
AWARENESS
Allergies and sensitivities vary from one person to the next. Most eyelash extension adhesives have an acrylate base - meaning the main component or ingredient is either Cyanoacrylate, Methyl Acrylate, Ethyl Acrylate or some type of “acrylate.” Acrylates in their monomer states are very irritating and tend to have strong odors. Monomer literally means mono-ONE mer-PART. So when acrylates are in their simplest form - usually a powder or liquid - they are a very strong irritant and allergen. Acrylates undergo polymerization, in which they are linked to one another, forming long chains. Basically, this is when the liquid form becomes your solid adhesive. Once polymerized, the acrylate chain is significantly less reactive. Due to the polymerized form of acrylate adhesive, they are normally non-irritating and non-allergenic, however, some people develop different allergies and can react to specific ingredients within the adhesive.
SOME COMMON INGREDIENTS IN ADHESIVES ARE: METHYL CYANOACRYLATE is the main ingredient in most adhesives. Methyl Cyanoacrylate is responsible for the extension adhering to the natural lash. This is the actual “sticky” part of the adhesive. As it polymerizes, the liquid adhesive becomes a solid. Polymerization occurs when cyanoacrylate comes in contact with water. In this process, gaseous fumes are given off, which can cause irritation during a lash appointment. Some clients may experience little to no irritation, whereas others may experience high levels of discomfort. This is why it is important to use the proper amount of adhesive during your application. As the amount of adhesive being used increases, more gaseous fumes are produced, which in turn, causes increased irritation. Irritation goes away within 24 hours, so it is important to work in a well ventilated area. POLY ALKYL METHACRYLATE/POLY ISOCYANATE provide elasticity to the adhesive. You’ll notice different adhesives have a variety of textures and consistencies, both in liquid and cured form. Some adhesive is thicker, while others have a more watery consistency. Some adhesives cure and become very stiff, whereas others maintain flexibility in their cured form. PIGMENT/BLACK CARBON gives the deep, black color. HYDROQUINONE can be found in ingredients commonly used in facial and skin cleansers, facial moisterizers and hair conditioners - including natural Vitamin E (tocopherol) and synthetic Vitamin E (tocopherol acetate). The chemical is allowed in personal care products in the United States in concentrations up to two percent. It is a weak acid used as buffer to prevent polymerization of the adhesive from occurring immediately. It is what helps you place and move the lash before it permanently sets. In high concentrations, this can be a hazardous component, which is why it is extremely important to know the percentages being used in the adhesive you are purchasing.
HISTAMINE is a protein that can be released as part of the body’s immune system responses during an allergic reaction. Presence of histamine can lead to inflammation and swelling, which is why antihistamines often are prescribed for allergy symptoms. ANTIHISTAMINES A part of the body’s natural allergic response is the release of histamine, a substance that dilates blood vessels, making the walls of blood vessels abnormally permeable. Symptoms caused by histamine include a runny nose and itchy, watery eyes. Antihistamines reduce allergic reaction by blocking the attachment of histamine to cells in the body that produce an allergic response. If an allergic reaction occurs, it usually happens the day after they get lashes done. It is very rare for someone to flare up in your chair. The reason this happens within 24 hours is because if you aren’t using a nano mister, your adhesive isn’t properly cured. In the 24 - 48 hours following the appointment, the adhesive is setting, and the main ingredient (cyanoacrylate) is curing as slowly as possible.
ALLERGIC REACTION
REMEDIES
Wash eyes with SteriLid foam wash to get rid of any bacteria or residue from old cosmetics. It’s doctor recommended, and is formulated specifically for the eyelid and lashes. Cleanse the eyes before anything else. Use a sterile saline solution to rinse out any irritation and help flush out allergens. Use an eye drop containing ketotifen - an antihistamine that will help reduce the redness and itchy irritation within the eye. Zatidor is a great eye drop product to suggest. We can’t prescribe medications to our clients, however, we can recommend oral antihistamines like Loratadine (Claritin) and Certirizine (Zyrtec) to help with the swelling and itching. These are less sedating than Benadryl and will last longer!
ADDRESSING THE FORMALDEHYDE ISSUE Formaldehyde is an ingredient used to form cyanoacrylate. After cyanoacrylate is formed, it is purified to get rid of any unwanted excess reactants of the by-products. This process is called chromatography. In theory, all of the reactant is used, but there can be some formaldehyde left over due to chemical limitations. Trace amounts may be detectable, but not quantifiable.
CAUSES FOR AN
ALLERGIC REACTION
CHECK THIS LIST OFF BEFORE ASSUMING IT’S YOUR PRODUCT(S) BEING USED: Did you place the lashes too close to the skin? Did you use too much adhesive? The more adhesive, the greater chance of reaction. Why? When adhesive undergoes polymerization, it creates gaseous fumes. More adhesive creates more fumes, which in turn causes more irritation. Were your client’s eyes slightly open throughout the appointment? Did you tape too close to the sclera? Are you confusing the bruised, broken vessels and redness with an allergic reaction? It’s the complete opposite. A bruise is a bruise. It will only heal with time. Very different than allergies - yet it is the biggest mistake lash artists make. Were your client’s lashes cleansed properly? Reactions can be caused by the bacterias and makeup residues that reside in the lashes if not cleansed thoroughly before application. Were cotton fibers anywhere near your application? When in contact with cyanoacrylate, cotton fibers will create an exothermic reaction - meaning, heat. It can cause major irritation, skin burns and chemical burns to the eyes or its surroundings.
COMMON EYE
IRRITATIONS
CORNEAL ABRASION is a minor scratch to the eye’s cornea. It can be caused by dust, contact lenses or other foreign objects, and can sometimes develop into a serious eye condition. SCLERITIS is a severe inflammation of the sclera - the eye’s outer protective layer. It usually causes pain, and can sometimes cause vision loss. [This can happen if tape gets too close to the eye’s sclera.] FUMES When your client’s sclera becomes very red and bloodshot due to the fumes from the adhesive. Symptoms of fumes irritating your clients eyes are burning, watering, or a stinging sensation during the application. Fumes are produced from the adhesive changing from a liquid to a solid. As it polymerizes, fumes are the by-product. It’s common to feel a little sensitive during that process. Once the adhesive dries, the fumes will dissipate.
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Apply lashes in a well ventilated room. If you are working in a small room, it is best to open windows and doors to allow for good air flow. If possible, use a fan in the room. Use the least amount of adhesive possible. This will make it so you and your clients are exposed to less fumes in general, and also make it so the lashes look more natural. Both pluses. Use the nano mister frequently! The nano mister helps cure (dry) the adhesive. The sooner you can cure the adhesive, the better, so less fumes will be given off.
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Remind your client to keep their eyes closed during application. It’s important to be transparent in the lash application process. Tell your clients how long it should take, and let them know why it’s important to keep your eyes closed. If they understand, they are more likely to follow your directions.
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Even when following all of these guidelines, irritations can still occur because eyes are very sensitive. Take your clients’ concerns seriously, but don’t just assume that it must be an allergy. In most cases, it is only an eye irritation, and will subside in a few hours.
TIP: When dealing with sharp objects around eyes, please be sure to take proper precautions. When taping the bottom lashes down, do not hold the tweezers in your hands. Put them on your table. Do not put them in your lap. Not only is this not sanitary, but they could slip off your lap and cause injury or bend the tweezers, making them useless.
TOOL SANITATION Equipment needs cleaning before disinfection, because any surface debris reduces the effectiveness of the disinfectant. For example, proteins such as skin or nail dust reduce the effectiveness of alcohol disinfectant. If appropriate and effective procedures are adopted, reusable equipment (tweezers) can be cleaned in warm water with soap, disinfected, and reused without risk of cross contamination between clients. The following steps are required between each client: 1. Clean any part of the equipment that has been contaminated. 2. Use only fresh disinfectant at the correct concentration and temperature. [Manufacturer’s instructions] 3. Fully immerse the tweezers in disinfectant solution for at least 10 minutes. 4. Remove the tweezers at the recommended time. Use clean togs or protective gloves. Rinse the equipment in clean water to remove disinfectant residue. Dry the equipment with a clean, lint-free wash cloth or air dry equipment on top of a clean towel. Cover clean equipment with a clean towel. WORKSTATION & SELF-SANITATION 1. Hands must be washed in-between each client with soap and warm water for at least 30 seconds. 2. Clean workstation with cavi-wipes or disinfectant wipes. 3. Always replace a new (single use) paper towel on pillow for clients to lie on. 4. Dispose of any paper towels used to set tweezers on.
STAGES OF
HAIR GROWTH
HAIR GROWS IN THREE CYCLES
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ANAGEN is the first stage where new hair is produced. If you pull out a new lash, you will see the bulb is very thick. CATAGEN is the transition (second) stage, where the hair shaft grows upward and detaches itself from the bulb. The hair follicle will actually shrink. The lower part of the follicle is destroyed, and the dermal papilla, which is what nourishes the follicle, will break away. TELOGEN is the resting (third) stage. This is where you see lashes on your cheek, or lashes come out on the brush as you comb through your lash extensions. You don’t feel them fall out - this is the normal process of old hair with new. There is virtually no bulb at the base. It is very normal to have anywhere from 3-5 lashes fall out each day.
HOW OFTEN DO
LASHES CYCLE?
A full lash cycle can be anywhere from 21-90 days. Everyone is different. If you had extensions put on, you could wear them completely off in 4-5 weeks. Of course, any products and oily substances being used can impact the extensions’ longevity. Typically your clients need to be coming in for fills every 2.5 to 3 weeks to maintain a true fill. Less than 50% of extensions retained no longer constitutes as a fill, but more of a full set. Use your best judgement to determine what to charge your clients, and make sure they are on schedule. IMPORTANT! Tell your clients that the natural lash will shed according to its normal growth cycle, and it will take the extension with it (when extensions are properly isolated). The extensions should never rip out natural lashes prematurely. Don’t pick or pull lashes for this reason!
TYPES OF
LASH EXTENSIONS
FAUX MINK EXTENSIONS are man-made fibers designed to imitate real mink fur. Since Faux Mink lashes are synthetic and man-made, the curls are much more consistent (true) than real mink. REAL MINK EXTENSIONS are literally brushed or shaved off live minks. This does not harm the animals. They are the softest to the touch and look very natural. Because they are real hair, they tend to be very inconsistent with the lengths, curls and diameters. This can be a pro or con. They look very natural, but only for a short amount of time. Over time, the real hair loses it curl. It can relax in the heat. Real mink lashes are very lightweight. This type of extension is very expensive. SILK EXTENSIONS are synthetically manufactured and have a shinier finish. They are extremely soft. Because the silk lashes tend to be more porous, they can hold on longer to the natural lash, but also lose their curl slightly in the heat. Over processing these lashes can make them very brittle. Faux Mink and Silk lashes are very similar in look and texture. SYNTHETIC EXTENSIONS are the original lash extension. They are made from a polished acrylic material and seem to be the sturdiest and firmest of all extensions. When placed on every lash, they appear very dense and dark - almost a plastic look - especially when applied improperly. These are what most people find are used by inexperienced lash artists, creating that “fake, spidery look.” They are also the cheapest to purchase.
LASH CURLS
LENGTHS & DIAMETERS
LASH CURLS vary, and will be different based on client facial features and style preferences. Your job is to consult with your client, and come up with a solution to pick the most flattering curl for their face and eye shape. While there are many different curls such as J curl, B curl, C curl, D curl, and L curl, your most common curls are B, C and D curl.
LASH DIAMETERS refer to the width, or thickness, of the individual lash. Diameters range from 0.05 0.30mm. The width of most healthy natural lashes is about 0.10mm. This is a very average, healthy looking lash. For classic 1:1 lash applications, your most common diameters are 0.12, 0.15, and 0.18mm. The 0.25mm diameter lashes tend to be too heavy for most lashes. It is only recommended for shortterm wear and only highlights of 0.20 and 0.25mm (on strong, sturdy lashes), never a full set. Do not confuse the diameter of a lash extension with the weight of an eyelash extension. The diameter tells you how thick or thin the extension is, but not the actual weight.
WEIGHT = LENGTH + DIAMETER WEIGHT
LENGTH
WEAK vs STRONG
LASHES
It is important to know the strength of the natural lash when selecting appropriate lengths and diameters.
WEAK LASHES are very light in color and thin in diameter. They are very fine - almost feathery, wispy and flimsy. If you apply extensions that are too heavy for the lash, it will sag or droop. STRONG LASHES tend to be a bit darker in color, thicker in diameter, and generally longer in length. Too heavy of a diameter, or too long of a length can cause premature shedding or breakage.
PROPER
TAPING
TAPE IS USED FOR FOUR DIFFERENT REASONS: To hold the bottom lashes down and separate them from the top lashes To manuever and stretch the eyelids To lift flat, resting lashes off the gel pads so you don’t adhere lashes to the tape/gel pads To hold one layer of lashes away from another layer THE TAPING RULE! Make sure you can see the inside edge of the tape or gel pads. If you cannot see the inside edge clearly, then the tape or gel pads are too close to the eye. Taping is one of the most important roles in the entire eyelash application process, and it’s critical that it be done properly. When a client closes their eyes, the top lashes should hardly be resting on top of the tape, while the bottom remain underneath the tape. The tape should not be bubbly or bumpy. One of the biggest mistakes lash artist make, is getting the tape too close to the eyes. It is important to remember that the eyelids stretch.
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Cut 1 1/2 inch pieces of tape for your taping procedure.
Use 2 pieces per eye, to form a wide X. Do not keep piling on more tape to cover loose lashes. Readjust your tape instead.
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Outside corners get taped first, then inside corners, remembering that it must go above the nose, not edge of the eye.
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If you have to put a third piece of tape to contain those little lashes poking out in the X, you can. Just be sure it’s a small, thin piece. The more tape you use, the bulkier it gets.
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If lids sag, or you need to lift the lashes, place the tape on the lids and pull up, attaching the tape above the brows.
Replace tape or gel pads if the client’s watery eyes are making application difficult.
PRO TIP: To get those tough inside corner lashes, tape the inside corner lids and pull (left or right) to help isolate the lashes easier. You can also use your ring finger with isolating tweezers to lift the skin.
ISOLATION Isolation is one of the most important components to creating a beautiful, healthy set of eyelash extensions. The reason some extensions look so unnatural is because of poor isolation. Often people forget that natural lashes go through a shedding cycle. This is what causes such damage to natural lashes. When one natural lash is ready to fall out, but is adhered to its neighbor, naturally, it will yank the other lash out. Eyelashes are on one of the most delicate cycles of the body, and there are only so many pulls before the natural lashes won’t grow back in. Eyelashes on an average human are arranged in 1-3 rows. This totals around 65-150 lashes per eye. Every person is different, and factors like age, medications and hormones all affect lashes and lash cycles. Older men and women have fewer lashes than younger men and women.
TECHNIQUE Hold the tweezers horizontally to give you the most flexibility and control when doing the treatment. Lashes have a life cycle of about 90 days, if you apply lashes to medium length lashes. The longevity of your lash extensions will be far better than putting them on an older lash. Adult lashes will have a short life span and will fall off soon. Medium lashes are ideal, as they have sufficient length for you to be able to create sufficient bonding, and enough lifespan to be able to give the client the longest duration possible. Baby lashes will not hold, as there is insufficient length to create a 100% bonding. Eyelashes should not be stuck together. This can cause damage and compromise longevity. Isolating lashes is fundamental to long lasting lashes and creating 100% bonding. Line up tweezers vertically to the lashes. Keeping the tweezers closed, press the tips into the midsection of the lashes. Slowly open the tips and isolate a lash.
PROPERLY ADHERING
EXTENSIONS TO NATURAL EYELASHES
There are many adhesive methods in the industry, but really, there’s no one right way to do anything. Some methods simply work better than others. When using adhesive, it’s important to remember that as soon as you put a little droplet onto your jade stone, oxygen begins to penetrate that adhesive, and slowly polymerize the adhesive into a solid form. So when we dip our extension into the adhesive, the adhesive at the bottom of our extension will dry faster than the dot of adhesive resting on our jade stone. Why is that? Well, the amount of adhesive on the extension is much smaller than the dot of adhesive on the jade stone. The more you move, shimmy and manuever that extension before finally placing it on the natural lash, the more you are allowing oxygen to penetrate and polymerize tat small amount of adhesive faster and faster. It breaks up the bond. So it’s best to go directly to the source... Go directly to the base of the natural lash where the extension should be placed, with as little movement as possible. Your extension should be placed 1/2-1mm away from the skin. Placing the lash too close to the skin causes major irritation, as well as allergies.
TIP: Slowly dip the first 2-4mm of the extension into your adhesive. The faster you dip your extension into your adhesive, the bigger the droplet you will accumulate at the bottom of your extension. By slowly dipping your extension into the adhesive, it will accumulate the perfect amount of adhesive, and no droplets will form.
TIPS
SECRET TO LONG LASTING LASHES ■ 100% BONDING ■ CORRECT ISOLATION ■ LASHES APPLIED TO MEDIUM LASHES
100% BONDING This treatment is all about 100% bonding and longevity of the lashes. If you learn how to create 100% bonding, you will become a successful lash BONDING PROBLEMS When the lash is not 100% bonded, durability will be compromised. You must do your best to achieve 100% bonding. You can correct by doing the following: Squeeze the edge that is not correctly bonded with the tweezers. ■ Take the lash off and apply more glue and realign. ■ DO NOT KEEP ADDING GLUE AS IT WILL END UP MAKING THE LASH THICK AND CLUMPY. ■
technician, and will be able to retain clients. PROBLEM LASHES It may be difficult to get a 100% bonding with the following lashes: ■ ■ ■ ■
CURLY LASHES STRAIGHT LASHES BABY LASHES OLD LASHES
BASIC BONDING TECHNIQUE Never touch the skin with the lash extension. They must always be 0.5-1mm away from the skin. LASH TINTING A more natural appearance can be achieved for blond clients if the lashes are tinted. Always tint the client’s lashes two days prior to the procedure. Tinting on the same day will affect the bonding.
THE
NANO MISTER
The Nano Mister is a small device that dispense tiny water droplets out in a fine mist. Cyanoacrylate needs water to cure. Do not make the mistake of having your clients douse their eyes in water. Too much water will shock your adhesive and have the opposite effect, making the lashes flake, or chip off. It compromises the integrity of the adhesive. It is the way the water is dispersed on the lashes that cure it. The droplets are so tiny that it helps polymerize the adhesive and hardens those inner layers, making the cyanoacrylate completely cured.
DIRECTIONS FOR USE: 1. Run the mister back and forth over both eyes for 15 seconds. 2. The mister should be held 8-10 inches away from the eyes. Only the tail end of that mist should be hitting the lashes. 3. Nano mister should constantly be moving from one eye to the next as to not create any water droplets. This will cure your adhesive.
PRO TIP: If your clients experience any irritation during or following their appointment, running the mister back and forth over both eyes for 15 seconds should reduce and minimize the discomfort.
EYELASH
ADHESIVE
Humidity affects your adhesive and application process. Some days your adhesive will work beautifully, while other days, it has a hard time drying or “sticking.” Check the humidity levels. Your room should be between 35-65% humidity and well ventilated. Temperature can also affect your adhesive. 68-71F is recommended.
WAYS TO MAKE YOUR ADHESIVE LAST LONGER 1. Keep your nozzle clean. 2. Store it in a cool, dry place, and do not leave it out in heat. 3. Replace your adhesive every 4 weeks. The key to having lashes LAST is using fresh adhesive on your clients. This will also help tremendously with allergies. Using old adhesive not only will cause more reactions, but the bond isn’t as strong, and clients will be coming back with less lashes. *Cyanoacrylate lasts 4 weeks once opened. With how much you make per client, you should be able to replace a bottle of adhesive every month. Also remember that once you have a full clientele, this won’t be an issue. 4. Avoid light, heat and moisture.
CORRECTING
LASHES
We’ve learned that when we properly adhere the extension to the natural lash, we are only adhering the first 2-4mm of the natural lash, and nothing else. This allows the natural lashes to breathe and move like natural lashes should. It is adhered to the strongest part of the natural lash - the base - and you’re able to direct the extension in any way you’d like. When adhering the entire natural lash to the extension, it eliminates all that movement and creates a more stiff set of lashes that are unable to be corrected.
Place the extension at the base of the natural lash. Disregard the last 50% of the natural lash and the direction it is facing. Correct the extension the way you’d like it to be, and like that, your client’s natural lashes look as crisp, clean and finished as they will ever be!
EYE SHAPES
Artistry and shaping the eye is so crucial to creating a flattering set of eyelash extensions, which is why you must determine each client’s eye shape and desired style of lashes. By indicating the strength of your client’s natural lashes, and the shape of their eyes, you’ll know what types of extensions to use. It is your job to know the best style for your client’s eye shape. Use this shaping guide to help you get started:
DEEP SET Longer lengths, softer curls
DOWN TURNED Starting with the inside corner, use C curl 3/4 of the eye and end with D curl to lift outside up
HOODED Longer lengths, softer curls
CLOSE SET Longer lengths on outer corners, use D curl 3/4 of the eye and end with C curl 1/4 outer corner
MONOLID L curl, always volume, their lashes are extremely fine, shorter outside corners
ALMOND Anything
PROMINENT Shorter lengths, dramatic curl
WIDE SET Length in middle, shorter outside corners
PRO TIP: We encourage you to use different lash lengths and curls to manipulate the shape you want to create! Note that most of your clients will fall under more than one shape.
THE PERFECT
BONE STRUCTURE
NATURAL
NATURAL DRAMATIC
CAT EYE
BABY DOLL
THE
CONSULTATION
Every single woman would love to have long eyelashes that enhance the beauty of their eyes. Eyes convey personality, emotion and genuine beauty. Women will be drawn to treatments that naturally enhance their eyes. During the consultation, the client should be given a choice of looks, for example: longer lashes, thicker lashes, colored extensions, a sweep of extensions on the outside corners. Consideration should also be given to the overall look the client is hoping for, and whether it is achievable. This makes sure that their expectations are managed. It is also good practice to run through the procedure and the subsequent aftercare instructions at this point so the client is completely aware of how to take the best care of her lashes. It is vital that you perform the correct consultation and patch test on new clients, and also on existing clients if you switch your brand of adhesive.
Our patch test procedure for eyelash extension adhesive must be performed at least 48 hours prior to a treatment. ■ Advise your client not to wear mascara to the appointment. ■ Perform a standard skin test behind the ear, in the crook of the elbow, or on the inside of the wrist. ■ Apply 2-4 lashes, or apply a tiny amount of adhesive to an eyelash on one eye. This ensures the adhesive is tested in the eye area.
GOLDEN RULE: If you are in any doubt about a client’s suitability for a treatment, do not proceed. Remember; if in doubt, leave it out!
Consultation and Consent Form Client’s Name Address Consultation - Information Statements Please read the following information. • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Lash extensions are made of a synthetic material naturally curved to imitate your natural lashes. Their purpose is to create the look of thicker, fuller and longer eyelashes. The procedure is painless Maintenance procedures may be required. For two hours after lash treatment, do not allow water to contact lashes. For two days after lash treatment, do not steam face, use a steam bath, swim or wash face with hot water. Do not perm or curl lash extensions. Eyelash tinting must be done prior to your lash procedure. Only use water based mascara or mascara remover on lashes. Do not use waterproof mascara or mascara remover on lashes. Do not rub eyes when washing face. Always pat dry lashes after cleansing. Do not use the sauna or a face steamer every day. Do not use any makeup remover on or near the lashes.
Consent for procedure I understand that a maintenance procedure is required to keep the lashes looking thick and full, and I am aware that I will be charged an additional fee for any further work. I have read and understand the aftercare form and realize that I am responsible for the general care of my lash extensions. PATCH TEST PROCEDURE - I am aware that it is an insurance requirement for a patch test to be completed 48 hours prior to my full treatment. Client’s Name
Patch test completed on
Signature
Date
Medical Health Form Client’s Name Address DOB
Occupation
Phone # (Mobile)
Phone # (Work)
Do you suffer with any of the following? (Please circle) Cataract NO
YES
Conjunctivitis NO
YES
NO
YES
Dry Eye Syndrome NO
YES
Glaucoma NO
YES
Diabetic Retinopathy
Any other complaints Name of doctor Surgery I have read and understood the above information Client’s Name Signature
Date
THE
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TREATMENT
Client Consultation
Sanitize
Proper Taping Method [Gel Pads]
Prep the natural lashes. Always make sure you are working on clean, healthy lashes. Encourage clients to come to appointments with their face and eye makeup already removed.
For maximum cleansing, use the Primer or Pre-Treatment. It balances the pH levels of the natural lashes by removing extra proteins, conditioning, cleaning and disinfecting. Use micro swabs, or have your clients rinse with a saline bottle in the bathroom. [Be sure lashes are dry before proceeding.] Dispense adhesive onto non-absorbent sheets and slowly dip 2-4mm of your lashes in the adhesive, and slowly come out of the adhesive. *Remember the faster you pull the lash out the more adhesive will build up.
7
Begin creating your “bones.”
8
Brush throughout application. Make sure no lashes are stuck to bottom lashes or tape, double application checking your isolation constantly.
9
Work until lashes are 90% complete.
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Tape the tips of the extensions back to reveal other layers and then place remaining lashes.
Finishing touches.
Remove tape or gel pads
Nano mist
EYELASH FILLS Your clients should return for a “fill” every two to three weeks. If you can keep them on this schedule, they should never need a “full set” again. However, if clients wait longer than two to three weeks for their “fills,” it is more likely than not that they will need a “full set,” due to the number of lash extensions they have lost. A service or application is typically considered to be a “fill” when 50% of the lash extensions are still in place from the previous service or application.
EYELASH FILL
INSTRUCTIONS
1. Sanitize hands, tools and work station. Get a new paper towel or cloth for underneath head and on forehead. 2. Create a prep station. Get your lashes out of the trays and place them on the table next to the client’s head, making sure their hair is on the opposite side. Make sure you do not get adhesive on your client’s hair. Put the lashes in order from shortest to longest. Place a jade stone or plastic square by the lashes and your tweezers alongside. 3. Tape the bottom lashes down. Have your client look up at the ceiling. Use about 1 1/2 inch pieces of tape, and create a wide “X.” Start by taping the outer corner lashes down, followed by the inside corners. Remember that the eyelid is stretched when looking up, so make sure you are not taping to close to the lids. You should be
able to see the inside edge of the tape when their eyes are closed. Make sure to verbally ask your client if the tape is bothering them in any way. Bruised corneas, broken blood vessels, and major irritation occurs when taping is done incorrectly. 4. Cleanse the lashes with primer to balance the pH levels in the natural lashes and remove any excess oils. 5. Determine which lashes have “grown out” and isolate them. 6. Hold the tip of the natural lash with your isolating (straight) tweezers, and hold the extension with your curved tweezers. 7. Gently peel the two lashes apart from each other. The natural lash should be pulled toward the chin as the extension is pulled toward the forehead.
8. Repeat for any other grown out lashes. Do not use remover for individual lashes. 9. Brush lashes and continue just like you would with your full sets. Isolate the lashes that don’t have an extension to place an extension. 10. Place the extension onto the natural lash. Make sure the lash is placed 1/2mm to 1 mm away from the lid. Placing lashes too close to the eyelid will cause irritation and create allergies to the adhesive. 11. Make sure adhesive is dry before removing isolating tweezers from eye. 12. Continue to rotate eyes, using the same application process.
REMOVING
EXTENSIONS
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Put a small dot of adhesive remover onto two micro swabs. Place one micro swab on top of the lash, while placing the other one on the bottom. Using a gliding motion, coat all of the lashes on each eye - from the base to the tips - ensuring no remover has seeped into the eyes.
4
Continue going back and forth from eye to eye, and from outside corner to inside corner in a circular motion. Extensions should gently slide off the natural lash.
5
After all extensions are removed, wipe client’s eyes with a damp, warm wash cloth. Direct client to the bathroom to do a thorough wash, prime and dry.
Do not use remover for fills or to remove single lashes.
AFTERCARE
INSTRUCTIONS
1
Do not get the eyelashes wet for 24 hours.
2
Do not pick or pull on your lashes. This risks lashes being pulled out prematurely.
3
Gently cleanse lashes daily. Always pat dry after cleansing.
4
Brush them daily. This encourages any lashes in the telogen stage to come out, while keeping them looking nice and not tangled.
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Do not sleep on your face. (Whichever side you sleep on will experience more lash loss.)
Avoid oily products. Anything oily degrades the adhesive. This includes makeup, eye creams, eye serums, lotion, etc.
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Cleanse face nightly, so lashes are clean while you sleep. Silk pillow cases help keep lashes on longer. Why? Because cotton causes friction that causes breakage to your hair - that means lashes, too! Silk is just like human skin. Silk pillow cases let your skin breathe. They’re perfect for people with allergies because dust mites and other allergens don’t live on silk like they do on cotton. It can even help with wrinkles too, which is always a plus!
Do not use a lash curler, as it will break the lashes.
Do not use waterproof mascara.
Thrive Skin Institute
Thrive Skin Institute
✦ (312) 545-5293 ✦ www.thriveskininstitute.com