Destination Fish SU07

DESTINATION FISH

THE TRAVEL GUIDE TO SPORT FISHING THE GLOBE summer 2007

jimmy johnson From the Gridiron to the Gulf Stream

marlena 144’ Sportfish

tackle to go resort report safe travels

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

4/20/07 3/13/07 4:28:09 9:36:45 PM AM

contents summer 2007

DESTINATION FISH THE TRAVEL GUIDE TO SPORT FISHING THE GLOBE

featured destinations on the cover

24 striking it rich in costa rica

By Doug Kelly

Pursuing sailfish off the land where the crocodiles and the jaguars play.

36 king of the himalayas

By Nathan Ward

To catch the legendary mahseer, you need a strong arm and a cool head in this land of elephants, tigers and rhinos.

18 football great, jimmy johnson NCAA and NFL legend heads offshore.

50 great barrier reef bounty

By Steve Cooper

Shove off from Cairns and duke it out Aussie style in these legendary marlin waters.

60 giant salmon of goodnews river

By Bob Stearns

A visit to this Alaskan hideaway captures the essence of America’s Last Frontier.

72 his majesty’s trout

By Nathan Ward

Deep in the Kingdom of Bhutan swim Asia’s privileged royal fish.

82 Chile’s Whitewater Wilderness

By Larry Larsen

Float the beautiful Lake District and battle rainbow trout amid snow-capped volcanoes.

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

4/20/07 1:16:08 1:58:35 PM PM 4/23/07

contents summer 2007

DESTINATION FISH THE TRAVEL GUIDE TO SPORT FISHING THE GLOBE

departments new

20

12

from the editor

14

advisory board

16

from our readers

20

tackle to go

32

hot yachts

44

resort report

80

igfa leads the way

94

legendary encounters

68

safe travels Tips, techniques and ideas in getting from here to there in one piece.

32

44

80

94 10

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

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Paul M

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

11

11/13/06 4/20/07 4:34:20 5:36:37PM PM

from the editor

Daring to be Different DESTINATION FISH THE TRAVEL GUIDE TO SPORT FISHING THE GLOBE

By DOUG KELLY, Editor-in-Chief

I

learned long ago that the only thing that makes for good reading is good writing. If articles read like a medical textbook and offer the same tired

clichés, readers soon drift away like chum in a swift current. Likewise, viewing pictures of the same ol’

Founder/Publisher - Captain Mike Genoun Editor in Chief - Doug Kelly Senior Copy Editor - Ed Mashburn Associate Editor - Kelly Braden Editorial Assistant - Michael Kelly

species in the same ol’ poses month after month starts to wear thin.

Contributing Correspondents

Sadly, outstanding wordsmithing and image-taking is all too often absent in our genre. We

Stu Apte - Marty Arostegui Steve Cooper – Larry Larsen

typically get lots of meat and potatoes served up by great fishing captains, but it’s usually delivered like

Bob Stearns - Nathan Ward

a splat in a food line. Modern-day Hemingways just don’t seem to be drawn to topics involving the catching of watery creatures, and likely the Nobel Prize for literature will seldom find its way to the author of a treatise on casting a fly rod or setting a trolling spread.

So how can a magazine stand out from the crowd? First, methodically locate excellent writers

whose stories aren’t laden with “screaming drags” and “rods bent double,” and who can snap pictures worthy of a coffee table book. Second, complement the improved filling with better icing – namely, a thick, high-gloss bond for the cover and inside pages.Third, put a well-known personality on the cover

Creative Director - Jenifer Kresge Production Manager - Jon Perkinson Web-Developer - Donnovan Stordahl Webmaster - Roger Ellis, Jr. Cover Photographer - Grant - DCP, Inc. V.P. Global Advertising - Chris Young Sales Representative - Greg Rybak

who loves to fish instead of the typical fish pic. Fourth, appeal to the ever-growing segment of a fishing

Client Relations Manager - Raquel Sanchez

public that enjoys traveling to foreign lands in pursuit of their favorite pastime. That’s the mission of

Office Assistant - Marielle Witting

Destination Fish.

Public Relations – Jason Genoun

In this issue, you’re going to learn about fishing in the magnificent Himalayas, an amazing

whitewater river in Chile, the huge and plentiful salmon at a remote Alaskan river, an exotic and even mythical fish in the Kingdom of Bhutan, black marlin and more off the Great Barrier Reef, and

Rachel Genoun Timothy Hinsinger

Published by DESTINATION FISH, LLC.

encounters with sailfish and crocodiles in Costa Rica.

We thank you for joining us in the pages of Destination Fish. Isn’t it exhilarating to discover

new fishing Meccas and to rediscover familiar ones?

President/Chief Executive Officer - Leah Genoun World Headquarters: PO Box 5089 Lighthouse Point, FL 33074

I’ll meet you there,

(877) 227-9617- Fax (954) 301-5826 DestinationFish.Travel ©2007 All Rights Reserved.

No part of the publication may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher.

12

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mejeres

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

13

4/13/07 4:35:25 4/20/07 1:23:26 PM

destination fish

Advisory Board Destination Fish would like to thank its Advisory Board, representing internationally known journalists, fishing legends and industry personalities. In addition to their periodic contributions to Destination Fish, they will provide the benefit of their experience in reviewing each issue, suggesting future content and supporting the goal of presenting to our readers the world’s best fishing destinations.

IGFA

Hall

of

Best known as host of

Famer has produced an

Mark Sosin’s Saltwater

abundance of books and

Journal, he’s a Hall of

videos, and received the

Famer, the author of

Lifetime

more than 3,000 articles

Achievement

Award by the American Sportfishing Association.

and currently writing his 30th book.

Flip Pallot

Bob Stearns

An inductee into the

His

much-acclaimed

An authority on many

IGFA’s Hall of Fame,

TV series The Walker

topics related to fishing,

he’s held more than 44

Cay Chronicles has aired

his byline has appeared

world records on light

for 16 seasons, and he’s

in popular magazines

tackle and fly including

currently filming Fish-

such as Field & Stream,

ing the Florida Keys with Flip Pallot.

Outdoor Life and many others.

Marsha Bierman

Billy Pate

Pete Van

A pioneer of standup

Best known for his 188-

Gytenbeek

short-rod fishing, she’s

pound world record tar-

He’s the only person

registered

2,500-plus

pon on 16-pound tippet

to have served both as

billfish captures, and

that stood for over 20

Executive Director of

she’s the first woman to

years, he’s also racked up

Trout Unlimited and as

win the Bahamas Billfish Championship.

many billfish achievements on fly.

President of the Federation of Fly Fishers.

Chico Fernandez

Al Pflueger, Jr.

Joan Wulff

He’s achieved a variety

A master of all styles

She’s won 17 national

of world records – most

of fishing, he can whip

and one international

notably the largest red-

anything from bonefish

casting titles, and the only

fish taken on fly (42

to billfish, and even has

woman ever to have won

pounds, 5 ounces) – and

an artificial reef named

a National Distance Fly

makes frequent personal appearances.

1-49.indd 14

This

Mark Sosin

Stu Apte

the two longest-standing records.

14

Lefty Kreh

after him.

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

Championship against all-male competition.

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

15

10/30/06 4/20/07 4:36:36 4:28:04 PM

from our readers

Kona Booster Vicarious Experiences

I noted in the article about fishing in Hawaii

For those who fish and travel the world,

(“Hook-Up in Hawaii”) how the action is still

Destination Fish has definitely discovered the

By CAPTAIN RICK GAFFNEY

going strong around those islands. I can vouch

sweet spot for those fortunate enough to visit

T

he Hawaiian Islands act as a mid-Pacific aggregator of pelagic game fish, and it’s been

that way since time immemorial. Anglers who pursue billfish, tuna and other big-game battlers have been attracted to these islands for nearly a century, and Hawaiian waters gained an international reputation for dependably delivering world-class sport

for that, especially off Kona. Anyone thinking

fishing all year round. Few among us don’t know that Hawaii regularly produces blue marlin over 1,000 pounds more often than any other venue on Earth.

Modern anglers have pursued game fish on rod and reel in the Hawaiian Islands since the ear-

of a trip there should know that you’re into the

W.C. Bradbury, a prominent member of The Tuna Club of Catalina Island, America’s first big-game fishing club. Bradbury apparently traveled to Hawaii from California in 1914 to verify reports of plentiful schools of yellowfin tuna and monstrous

the main charter boat marina in Kona because

©HVCB/Ron Dahlquist

“swordfish” (which California anglers called marlin

marlin fishing almost as soon as the boat clears

O n e O f t h e w O r l d ’ s g r e a t e s t v a c a t i O n d e s t i n a t i O n s k e e p s l u r i n g a n g l e r s a s w e l l a s t O u r i s t s .

ly 1900s. The first American known to do so was

in those days).

On the Big Island of Hawaii, Bradbury indeed became impressed with the amazing battles he experienced.

Hook-Up in Hawaii

destination fish - spring 2007

distant places. But for those who still dream of visiting great destinations, they only have to go through the pages of your magazine.

Al Tarallo Southampton, NY

of the quick drop-off to deep water.

ing grounds so close, there’s little wasted running

On my last visit a big blue marlin rose into

time. I’ve been to some places where it takes over

Bones to Pick

our lure spread no more than 20 minutes af-

an hour before even getting the lines wet. In a

You hit me square between the eyes when

ter casting off at the dock. With the volcanoes

week we released four blues between 200 and 400

blocking the brunt of the winds off Kona, it’s

pounds and caught seven wahoo, lots of tuna and

to go – it’s now at the top of my list of “must”

usually smooth waters for miles offshore, which

dolphin, and the greatest joy – my first spearfish.

places to fish, especially as someone new to

means even smaller boats can get after the big fish. What I like best of all is that with the fish-

Extended Holiday

I found your inaugural magazine intriguing,

I’ve never fished the Pacific Ocean off Guatemala, although the article about that (“Tease ‘Em In Iztapa”) makes it plain I should one of these days. However, what I’ve done that has also been very rewarding involves first enjoying a fishing trip to Belize, and then taking the short flight from Belize City to neighboring Guatemala City for a couple of days. While the great offshore action understandably gets all the attention, not many people know that the freshwater fishing is also excellent.

My wife and I pass through very charming and picturesque villages on the way to seldom-seen Mayan ruins, and we also fish in the many beautiful rivers for snook, tarpon, bass, shad, carp and catfish. We always see a few yellow-tailed quetzals, howler monkeys and lots of other unique animals without all the crowds of people usually encountered in most other countries.

as well. It’s the insight into other

BERMUDA • BAJA MEXICO • HAWAII • GUATEMALA • BAHAMAS • BRITISH COLUMBIA

DESTINATION FISH THE TRAVEL GUIDE TO SPORT FISHING THE GLOBE

cultures and the wonders of nature that many anglers and outdoorsmen

WADE BOGGS

HALL Of fAMER AnD InTERnATIOnAL AnGLER fISHES fOR CHARITy

love.The beauty of

tackle to go: top gear, gadgets & garments resort report: Where adventure and luxury Meet

our world and the

hot yachts: showcasing the Finest convertibles

DF S'07 COVER.indd 1

experiences

12/5/06 5:38:18 PM

we

encounter make fishing so much more than just baiting a hook. The different cultures that these destinations hold will bring new excitement to the fishing world. I also feel anglers who don’t normally travel will find themselves longing for these dream destinations, and if not making those fantasy trips come true will at least enjoy the images and stories foretold.

Ray Badini Oakland, California

David Ehlers West Palm Beach, FL

Editor’s Note: Thanks for that insight, Ray, and stay tuned for coverage about Belize in an upcoming issue.

16

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(“Seductive Solitude”). I’m stoked and ready

the saltwater fly-fishing game. Do you have Randy Garvin Denver, Colorado

Fishing, And Then Some not only for me but I’m sure for other readers

it comes to great fishing in the Bahamas

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

any suggestions on some of the better locations?

Donald Cullison Houston, TX Editor’s Note: Every Bahamas visitor soon discovers his or her favorite bonefish haunts, and truth be told, you can find gray ghosts on just about every flat throughout this nation of endless tropical islands. However, you’ll seldom be disappointed fishing the Marls west of the Abacos, the extensive Berry Islands flats from Great Harbour Cay to Chub Cay, the Exumas and Bimini.

Send Us Your Thoughts

Have a comment or question? Email us at: info@DestinationFish.travel. Destination Fish reserves the right to select, condense and edit letters for purposes of clarity and space. •

DESTINATION FISH THE TRAVEL GUIDE TO SPORT FISHING THE GLOBE

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

17

4/20/07 4/6/07 12:48:01 4:39:57 PM PM

From the Gridiron to the Gulf Stream R

iding the shoulders of several jubilant players on the balmy night

Cowboys. His ocean-side property in Islamorada reflects a laidback,

of January 1, 1988, Jimmy Johnson pumped the air with his fists.

shorts-and-sandals lifestyle. A small, separate building houses rods, reels

The twelfth and final victory of the season over previously #1 Oklahoma

and dive equipment. A fish pond also sports lobster, and Johnson enjoys

in the Orange Bowl delivered the national championship for his Miami

the daily feedings to his “pets.� A large pool abuts a shaded, sunken bar

Hurricanes.To Johnson, the emotional release meant redemption for years

adjacent to the living quarters. Pure paradise.

of 18-hour workdays, grueling practices and high-pressure games.

The guesthouse has seen the likes of fellow broadcasters Terry

Lured thereafter to the NFL’s Dallas Cowboys, he rolled up his

Bradshaw and Howie Long, Patriots Coach Bill Belichik, former Cowboys

sleeves and converted a basement team into a powerhouse, winning

great Troy Aikman and the Miami Dolphins’ Zach Thomas and Jason

two Super Bowls and becoming the first

Taylor. But the main reason Johnson chose

coach to ever win both the NCAA and

the house is because of its deep-water basin

NFL championships. He next excelled

and quick ocean access. Rising at 5 a.m.

as a game analyst on national TV, leaving

each morning, he often hops aboard either

the Hurricanes and Cowboys in such

wife Rhonda’s 31-foot Contender with

good hands that the ensuing coaches

twin four-stroke 250-horsepower engines

won the NCAA Championship and the

or his favorite – a 34-foot SeaVee with

Super Bowl. After vacating the broadcast

twin diesel engines appropriately named

booth for a stint as coach of the Miami

Three Rings.

Dolphins, his interests began switching

to dolphin of another variety – the kind

of the time, trolling with six or seven lines

with green bodies, fluorescent blue fins

out,� Johnson says. “I’ll usually run 20 to 30

and those oh-so-tasty fillets. Nowadays,

miles offshore and be back by lunchtime.

his football involvement is relegated to

The serenity and solitude make me feel

color commentary for Fox Sports during

alive yet relaxed.�

“I love going out by myself most

He’s become quite an angler, too, particular with big dolphin

the season, but otherwise Jimmy Johnson’s favorite moments are spent

trolling the Gulf Stream.

that include not only a 53-pounder but also a 61-pound monster that,

“I grew up on the south Texas coast, and my dad often took us

amazingly, he caught entirely by himself. And, one morning he released

fishing and boating,� says Johnson. “Fishing became ingrained in me, and

six sailfish on the reef within sight of his house.

it’s remained a great diversion. I also started diving off the Florida Keys

when at the University of Miami, and I love that too.�

“If I can wet a line while also helping good causes, it’s a win-win,� he

Those infrequent jaunts to Islamorada in the Keys – about an hour’s

drive south of Miami – convinced him to settle there after leaving the

18

1-49.indd 18

# ,$ &! !!# ' * % * &

on the cover: jimmy johnson

Johnson frequently participates in events that raise money for charity.

says. Indeed, nowadays he’d much rather ride the bridge of his boat while quietly looking for fish than pace the sidelines in a noisy stadium. •

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

DestinationFish.travel

4/23/07 9:55:45 AM

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4210 N. Federal Highway, Lighthouse DESTINATION Point, FL 954.782.5000 www.jrdunn.com FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007 19

4/23/07 AM 4/20/07 11:10:57 5:05:40 PM

tackle to go

Gear, Gadgets and Garments for the Traveling Angler

By CAPTAIN MIKE GENOUN

Help is on the way!

When heading abroad in search of drag-screaming sensations, safety

and pray that I never will, but face it, accidents do happen and they tend

should never be taken for granted. I’ve learned through personal experiences

to happen when least expected. The piece of mind alone is well worth the

that not all foreign fleets are properly equipped with the necessary safety

small investment.

gear. A perfect example would be heading out in-search of roosterfish on a primitive panga in a remote region of Mexico. Commonly faced with huge

Get a grip.

swells along the Pacific shoreline, you’d be hard-pressed to find anything

more than a life vest. Look for a VHF or first-aid kit, and, well, they simply

sharp hooks or turning the day’s catch into fillets, gloves improve your grip and more importantly, protect your hands. When listing ‘Must Haves’ for any

aren’t part of the package.

Whether you’re involved in a heated battle with a giant marlin, handling

To insure your safety and the safe

expedition, local or beyond, I make it a point to recommend packing gloves that

return of your family and friends, do

are light, strong, flexible and designed for both fresh and saltwater use as you never

what I do, and never head off to paradise

know where your adventure may lead you. If you don’t already own a pair or two,

without a personal locater beacon.

I would look closely at gloves with a textured surface which enhances grip and is

Not much larger than a cell phone,

resistant to fish slime and odor.Today’s leading marine hand wear manufacturer’s

my FastFind Plus is a revolutionary

utilize multiple layers of fabric to insure their products resist cuts and punctures

personal locator beacon featuring

from even the sharpest knives and gill plates. Hand protection is essential when

a built-in 12 channel Global

visiting far-and-away locales where access to a medical clinic could literally

Positioning powerful

System 5-Watt

receiver,

be days away.

406MHz

transmitter and 121.5MHz homing

beacon. I

chose

the FastFind Plus because the

operate in extreme temperatures and is powered by rechargeable batteries.

In the event of a dire emergency, a push of a button transmits a signal to

global orbiting Cospas-Sarsat satellites which relay the distress call – which includes information about the unit’s owner - to a rescue coordination center.

The built-in GPS receiver provides latitude and longitude coordinates to within 100 feet of the unit’s precise position anywhere on the face of the earth. Depending on your exact location, rescue may come in minutes, hours or in days, but it will come.

Thank the heavens above, I have never once had to activate the device

20

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

1-49.indd 20

cont. on pg. 22

Clockwise From Top Left: ©RevereSupply.com , ©HiSeas.net

compact unit is waterproof, floats, can

4/23/07 2:27:36 PM

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21

4/20/07 10:06:55 4:42:43 PM 4/19/07 AM

tackle to go

The last thing you want in a wet environment is a nasty cut leaving the

big improvement when you consider original 15-foot bamboo fly rods

door wide open for a severe infection. If you are a serious blue water buff,

weighed more than two pounds. The same principles apply today with

select a pair of ‘Offshore’ gloves designed specifically for handling pelagic

some noteworthy exceptions. Rather than bamboo, slim-profile ferrules

predators and dealing with wire or cable leaders.

constructed of graphite result in ultra-lightweight, ultra-smooth product

Be sure to try the gloves on for size before making a final purchase,

and expect to get what you pay for. I would lean toward high-quality gloves

from butt to tip. The next time you head up to fish side by side with the bears, bring the right weapon to the war.

featuring a protective fabric complemented by some sort of stretch nylon for added flexibility and greater dexterity. Look for gloves lined with a

Tool #1

quick-drying material that makes slipping them on and off a breeze, even

during the heat of battle.

no on-the-go tackle bag would ever be complete without a quality pair

It’s unfortunate, but gloves are often overlooked by traveling anglers.

They are an essential tool that every angler should own. They also happen to make the perfect gift for the worldwide angler in your family.

be the first tool packed for

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Have rod will travel.

of pliers. This should

Pliers are

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ver satile

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and

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are

constantly utilized for a multitude of

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With lengths ranging to 15 ft. in a moderate fast-action, the Legend Ultra Spey

including

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c u t t i n g

a spey rod are exactly what are needed to fish successfully on many of the

monofilament,

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braided and wire

do it with ease. This means covering more water with remarkable

line,

fish, straightening hooks and

tightening reel seats. The list goes on and on. While a pocket-size multi-

control – all while avoiding brushy shorelines, protruding

purpose tool is a good idea to bring along as well, I’ve found that few

cliffs and other obstacles. This new generation

provide the same strength and line cutting ability of an authentic set of

of fly rods is fast, smooth and strong.

pliers.

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de-hooking

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1-49.indd 22

generation of hand tools features ergonomically designed, spring-loaded handles, unique line-keepers and replaceable cutters and anvils. If an optional sheath and lanyard is available, go for it. It’s a worthy investment

To refresh your memory, spey rods

to insure the most important tool in your arsenal is always right where you

were originally designed to eliminate hundreds

need it most. Finally, don’t forget that pliers or any tools for that matter

of false casts which made fly-fishing less tiring, a

22

in the worst saltwater conditions. No other metal comes close. The latest

must be safely packed away with your check-in luggage. •

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

Clockwise From Bottom Left: ©StCroixRods.com, ©VanStaal.com

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3/28/07 4/20/07 3:58:53 4:44:27 PM PM

S

A mate went overboard to revive a released sailfish, flashing a hand signal that all’s going to be just fine.

24

1-49.indd 24

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 4:45:05 PM

By DOUG KELLY

Striking It Rica Pursuing sailfish off the land where t h e c r o c o d i l e s a n d t h e j a g u a r s p l ay.

J

©Tosh Brown

tossed out, fish transfers to the bait, line tightens,

the speakers the first time aboard the Croc of

circle hook does its thing, and the man-fish

Gibraltar, a rigger clip snapped. My brain instantly

encounter commences.

tuned out the Marley CD as heads swung to the

rod now throbbing to life in a starboard holder.

and wind with the best of them. As the Pacific

Hochman, a custom rod builder, can pump

“Vela! Vela!” declared the captain atop the

sailfish twisted, twirled and put on a show that

bridge as he excitedly repeated the Spanish

the Flying Wallendas would envy, Hochman

word for sailfish. Sanford Hochman, a Cape Cod

artfully maneuvered the rod to meet the 100-

native normally of quiet disposition, rose like a

pound-plus fish’s every antic. In about eight

Centurion about to do battle. The mate lobbed

minutes, the sail succumbs with the leader and

a live goggle-eye jack behind the now idling

then its bill secured. A few quick pictures, and

boat, and the rest of the scene went according

let the animal recover a bit before releasing. So

to Hoyle: fish rises in the trolled lure spread, bait

beautiful.

1-49.indd 25

ust as the words “We jammin’” blared over

4/20/07 4:45:39 PM

Such drama becomes common off western

Due to extreme Pacific-coast tidal changes, Crocodile Bay Resort’s private

Costa Rica, aptly so named by Columbus for its

pier extends 750 feet to the charter-boat slips.

rich coast. Fishing out of Crocodile Bay Resort

saw other sails cut across the spread occasionally,

heated up faster than the water, and German

and the Golfo Dolce, the blue waters 10 to 30

but they wouldn’t stay to dine. We switched lures

(pronounced Herman), our captain aboard the

miles offshore yield abundant sailfish, marlin,

from chuggers to bullets, changed colors, varied

Croc of Gibraltar, and mate Erick spent most of the

dolphin, wahoo and tuna. But that’s not the only

the trolling speed and directions, but not much

time running and gunning after free-jumping sails

fishing karma you get hereabouts – shallower

happened after the initial strikes.

or birds following fish rather than the prior day

green and coastal waters provide great action with

spent mostly blind trolling.

roosterfish, cubera snapper, African pompano,

a long-time friend and Fishing Director of

black snook and trevally.

Crocodile Bay Resort (CBR), that I didn’t come

pound conventional gear, with two in the

all this way for just a handful of sailfish. Noting my

outriggers, one flat line and a shotgun from

sarcasm, he responded with a smile that was only

the bridge. At the ready stood 20-pound spin

Our first day aboard the Croc of Gibraltar

bending the lips, slyly adding that the weather

rods for smaller fish and an 80W in case a big

found the seas a bit saucy, causing even the 35-foot

will improve and to “pretend” like I have a little

blue decided to pay a visit. Preferred gear at

Strike boat with twin 370 diesels to rock and roll a

patience.

CBR consists of 6- to 7-foot Okuma rods,

bit. Nonetheless, under overcast skies and a drizzle

Shimano TLD and Tiagra reels, and Triple

now and then, we registered another sailfish release

following day found us under blue skies, abundant

Fish line and fluorocarbon leaders.

by angler Terry Durbaugh, a veterinarian and also

sunshine and calm seas, and our lure spread became

a New Englander, plus a beefy skipjack tuna. We

much easier to spot from the depths. Action

sported wooden green birds in front of them

From Lukewarm to Hot

26

1-49.indd 26

That night at dinner, I needled Todd Staley,

Indeed, Staley made me eat crow. The

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

We trolled four lines on 30- to 50-

Clockwise from top left: ©Michael Kelly, ©Captain Mike Genoun

Striking it Rica

The two short lines with bigger lures

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 4:48:11 PM

Striking it Rica to increase attention. Erick says that favorite

companions Michael Kelly, Kelly Braden and I also

lure colors include green, orange, black-and-red,

strapped on stand-up belts, with Michael tallying the

Ü Where to Toss the Bags

purple-and-black, and blue-and-white. A cedar

biggest dolphin of the outing, a chunky 35-pound cow.

International flights to San Jose, the

plug often gets attention as well from just about

By day’s end, every rod in the holders had been bent

country’s capital, can be arranged with

all species. Once a fish comes up in the spread,

more than a few times.

a number of major airlines. If you arrive

Erick springs to the deck from the bridge. If the

early, catch the 3 p.m. one-hour Nature Air

fish doesn’t take one of the lures, Erick casts a pre-

playful antics of porpoises around the boat. Others in

rigged live goggle-eye, bonito or blue runner while

the CBR fleet also reported good action on sailfish and

anglers reel in trolled lines to deter tangling.

dolphin, with a few bringing in wahoo and a couple of

anglers losing hooked blue marlin at the transom.

Day 2 saw lots of that. Not only did we get

We also spotted a sea turtle and enjoyed the

multiples on sailfish, we scored several big dolphin.

charter flight over the mountains southwest to Puerto Jimenez; if you arrive later, spend the night in San Jose at hotels that will be recommended when booking the trip with Crocodile Bay Resort and fly out the next

Sanford Hochman caught the first green marauder,

Strutting Like A Rooster

fighting it on 20-pound spin after German went

ballistic upon spying a big school nearby. We admired

visited CBR, we’d never caught a roosterfish.

their cobalt-blue pectoral fins as they blitzed here and

Leaving the dock, our skiff ran just north of

there beneath the boat in the clear blue water, gobbling

the point separating the Golfo Dulce from

up the chunks of cut bait that Erick stashed in the

the Pacific Ocean and shut down near a series

Jimenez, you’ll be whisked to the resort

cooler just for this purpose.

of large rocks that jut out near the shoreline.

only minutes away.

Three years ago when Kelly Braden and I

it any longer just snapping pictures, my traveling

You’ll be met when arriving in San

Jose by a CBR representative and taken to the charter airport. When landing in Puerto

The first thing I noted upon arriving

Hochman and his fishing partner this day, Steve

Cahill, took turns on the rod. After we couldn’t stand

morning at 7 a.m.

Even small roosterfish sport distinctive dorsal fins and body stripes – and fight like fish twice their size.

at the resort: Its four-star rating is well deserved. The guard-protected entrance to the 44-acre property offers 34 airconditioned rooms that include handcarved furniture, modern (comfortable) beds and many sport private Jacuzzi baths.

Other amenities: a pool with swim-up bar,

Clockwise from top left: ©Michael Kelly, ©Captain Mike Genoun

hot tub, a 5,000-square-foot luxury spa, a conference center, pool and snooker table, gift shop and bar. They even provide a free 10-minute massage from a professional masseuse at the end of the day in a tented patio next to the pool. The all-inclusive packages provide accommodations, meals and beverages – including well-brand cocktails. Internet is offered but often out of service, so we usually went to an Internet cafe in Puerto Jimenez. cont. on pg 28 DestinationFish.travel

1-49.indd 27

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

27

4/20/07 4:52:02 PM

Striking it Rica Ü Where to Toss the Bags cont.

I can’t say enough about the fantastic

food, offering a full breakfast buffet each morning (including omelet and pancake chefs) and a stupendous dinner buffet nightly with steaks, a variety of fish, soups, sushi, side dishes galore and desserts prepared at the resort. The night prior to each day’s fishing or tour, the staff notes what kind of sandwich and drinks you’d like, and by morning they’re already in the cooler. I’ve never encountered a more accommodating staff, including Brian who arranges the tours, front desk personnel such as Markos, and Karol in the dining room.

But most everyone comes mainly for the

to a fleet of 39 inshore and offshore boats from

You can choose from many tours to view Costa Rica’s natural resources, such as

17-foot skiffs to 35-foot tower boats. Todd

(above) a gentle two-tied sloth or (below) a not-so-gentle crocodile.

Staley does a remarkable job organizing a staff

We slow-trolled sardines on two rods, and

to cling and a heartbeat at least double time, I

of 80 guides, mates and support personnel,

minutes after setting them out one of the rod

couldn’t believe it when the roosterfish finally

always doing so in a personable and friendly

tips twanged as if snagging on the bottom.

rose from the surf to the edge of the boat.

style.

Another twitch, a little line taken, and then the

I’d have bet my hat that that 30-pound fish

reel sounded like an industrial electric drill as

was twice its actual size. Kelly caught her first

based on the season, length of stay and what

line burned off the spool like no tomorrow.

roosterfish as well, and we each released three

type of fishing – inshore or offshore – you’d

like to do. Visit www.crocodilebay.com for full

I pressured that fish within an ounce of the

half-day excursion.

details on the rates, tours, fishing and other

20-pound line test and could still barely hold

info about the resort.

on. With sweat beginning to cause my clothes

associated with the fishing operation. Boats

28

1-49.indd 28

The cost of fishing or tour packages vary

Barely getting the rod out of the holder,

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

more before turning the bow for home on this

Todd

Staley

oversees

80

employees

Clockwise from bottom, left to right: ©Michael Kelly (2), ©Kelly Braden

fishing. CBR’s 750-foot private pier plays host

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 4:54:01 PM

Striking it Rica Ü

Bring Your Camera

Aside from great fishing, Crocodile

Bay Resort (CBR) offers a wide array of opportunities to venture out and explore the magnificent Osa Peninsula. Much of the peninsula consists of the 104,898-acre Corcovado National Park, which National Geographic dubbed as the most biologically intense place on Earth.

Go on tours with an experienced

guide. Wonderful opportunities abound to see wildlife, but there are also crocodiles, venomous snakes, packs of peccaries and even a healthy population of jaguars are present in the area. Here are guided tours we took on non-fishing days out of the 22 offered through CBR.

Clockwise from bottom, left to right: ©Michael Kelly (2), ©Kelly Braden

•

Osa Rainforest – This is the most popular

After fishing all day in the tropical heat, it’s

relaxing to rest in a shaded hammock or one of the resort’s air-conditioned rooms.

and highly recommended of the tours offered.

returning mid-afternoon. The night before,

Prime time for sailfish would be January

of the Osa Peninsula. Along the way we saw

you indicate your preferred drinks and choice

through May, with June and July is usually

of sandwich, and they’re in the ice chest

tops for marlin – blue, black and striped.

when you climb aboard the next morning. It

Black snook peak in December and May,

usually takes about an hour to run offshore for

while you’ll get dependable, year-round shots

between themselves high in a tree branch.

trolling, and figure about half that time or less

at roosterfish, cubera snapper, trevally and

Farther inland, Danilo spotted a troop of

to bottom fish or to check out coastal rocky

African pompano.

about 20 white-faced capuchin monkeys. This

areas for roosters.

run from 17-foot skiffs to offshore 35-footers, with boats leaving the dock at 7 a.m. sharp and

If you consider the exotic beauty of this special country, the unmatched and

comforts

conveniences

A 30-minute ride from the resort upon a rustic dirt road took us to our first stop at the tip parakeets, several herons, a three-toed sloth and a vine snake. Our guide Danilo led us along several wide paths, with one that led to a couple of scarlet macaws loudly quibbling

particular pack was not fond of our presence and began to bare their teeth to scare us off.

On other occasions, these monkeys came right up to us looking for food, but feeding

of

them is definitely not recommended. After

Crocodile Bay Resort and

leaving the irritated monkeys in peace, we saw

the simply outstanding

bats inside a dark hole in a tree. Danilo also

fishing opportunities, it’s

pointed out two toucans near the treetops.

easy to see that this is a destination that’s pretty

We next visited the primary rainforest with less wildlife but dense vegetation, during which we waded a small river to a steep hill. Danilo

hard to top. And that’s

showed us various plants that locals utilize to

exactly why I will keep

make paint, provide aloe and other needs.

coming back.

DestinationFish.travel

1-49.indd 29

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

29

4/20/07 5:11:58 PM

©Kelly Braden

Striking it Rica Ü

Bring Your Camera cont.

and one kept trying to grab a can of tanning

On the way back to the resort, we viewed

lotion from the outer web of my backpack.

a sloth, a pack of spider monkeys and rare

White-faced capuchin monkeys ran about

squirrel monkeys.

and played with the other spider monkeys

•

Gold Panning – Our guide Alberto

and howler monkeys. Earl explained that since

took us for a hike about half a mile up the

most of these monkeys were brought to the

nearby El Tigre River. Not speaking a word

sanctuary as babies, they mingle with one

of English, local resident Luis Rojas, a gold

another – something they never do in the wild.

panner for 42 years, nodded at the pan in his

We observed a toucan and a kinkajou in their

weathered hands to non-verbally prompt me

respective cages. While the nocturnal kinkajou

to also engage in panning for gold. I noted

slept, the toucan hopped from one end of

the way he panned the sediment shoveled

the cage to the other, and eyed our every

from just above the river bedrock, and tried

movement. The highlight occurred when Earl

to replicate what he did. I took the pan, which

held a two-toed sloth in his arms as if it were

weighed about 15 pounds with all the rocks

a baby. At first glance, it appears like a hairy-

and sand, and started to knock off the larger

looking seal. Earl told us that this slow-moving

rocks at the top. Placing it into the water, I

mammal is docile, nocturnal, lives its entire

swirled the water around and around. Luis

life upside-down in trees and takes a week to

gently intervened and showed me how to do

digest food.

it more effectively to force the heavier gold

•

metal to the pan’s bottom. I quickly got the

outskirts of the Crocodile Bay property at 8:30

hang of it, and soon Luis sifted through the

p.m. one evening, Danilo suddenly stops our

black sand residue in my pan with his finger.

small group and points to the left of the path.

• Official Name: Republic of Costa Rica

Several small gold flakes flashed before our

“Look, look, right there,” he says. I focus my

• Area: 51,100 sq. km. (19.725 sq. mi.)

eyes. A day’s toil typically garners one to

flashlight where he’s pointing and I get a chill

• Capital: San Jose

two grams of gold, with five grams being

down my spine: it’s a coiled fer-de-lance. This

• Location: Central America, bordered by Nica-

excellent. One gram will fetch $60. Luis

is the most dangerous snake in the Western

remarked that he used to pan 20 to 30 grams

Hemisphere, as it causes more deaths than any

a day before commercial interests invaded

other American reptile. Danilo instructs each

the area during the gold boom over 20 years

of us to keep our distance, but it gave up any

bean Sea to the east.

ago. Rojas noted that the best time of the

hope of remaining undetected and instead

• Population: 4,327,000

year to gold pan is during the rainy season,

slithered away. We moved on to the Caiman

Religions: Mostly Roman Catholic

since the gold washes down the river faster

Lagoon. “Look for any glowing eyes when

• Language: Spanish

due to stronger currents.

pointing your flashlights,” Danilo instructed.

•

Osa Wildlife Sanctuary – With a baby

After he made some chirping sounds, several

spider monkey clinging to the back of his

caimans swam over as well as a large crocodile.

neck and a parakeet on his left shoulder,

He later pointed out several birds sleeping in

Visit the U.S. State Department’s web site for more

Earl Crews gave us a tour of the Osa Wildlife

trees as well as frogs and Jesus Christ lizards

details about Costa Rica:

Sanctuary just a short boat ride across Golfo

(so called because they can run across the top

www.state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn/2019.htm.

Dulce from CBR. Earl is co-owner with his wife

of water). While we didn’t see any red-eyed

Carol of this non-profit animal rescue center.

green tree frogs or poison dart frogs, they

Scarlet macaws, which aren’t native to this

are also out and about at night. We certainly

side of Golfo Dulce, squawked overhead.

gained a different perspective of wildlife that’s

Several curious spider monkeys approached

more prevalent at night.

30

1-49.indd 30

Jungle Night Walk – Ambling along the

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

This baby spider monkey is but one of four species of monkeys that inhabit the Osa Peninsula.

Other Notes of Interest about Costa Rica:

ragua to the north, Panama south-southeast, the Pacific Ocean west and south, and the Carib-

• Government: Democratic Republic • Currency: Colones (518.74 = $1US)

Doug Kelly, Editor-in-Chief of Destination Fish, gets out from behind the PC now and then to knock the moss off his heels and visit alluring fishing retreats. •

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4/23/07 1:10:58 1:52:00 PM

hot yachts

Marlena 144-foot Trinity Yacht

Each issue brings to life an exquisite sportfish yacht revealing the culmination of imagination and technology. In this issue, we’d like to introduce you to a magnificent vessel designed from the keel up as the largest yacht-fish ever conceived.

For a privileged few worldwide, Marlena has laid

of the transom, a huge windowed live-well provides

her claim as the essence of yachting perfection. New

the perfect finishing touch. Anglers remain shaded by

owners completed a major retrofit in 2005, with an

a towering superstructure – part of the retrofit – which

Along with twin 65kw Northern Lights gensets ca-

updated interior and an extended reach to 144 feet.At

encapsulates nothing other than a spa.What better way

pable of powering a small city, the pair of Paxman

nearly 30 feet wide, her shear breadth alone demands

to unwind after a long day of battling billfish than to

3,500-horsepower power plants occupying her mas-

attention. Today, Marlena spends the majority of time

meet for celebratory cocktails in the hot tub.

sive air-conditioned engine room is fed by nearly

complementing the Monaco coastline. But make no

Slightly closer to the heavens on the next

10,000 gallons of fuel. Seven-thousand horsepower

mistake; she is a true sportfish, crisscrossing the Medi-

upper level, the captain explores the distant ho-

propels the aluminum hull and superstructure to an

terranean in pursuit of the world’s greatest game fish

rizon for worthy adversaries from an open air,

astonishing 31 knots. Even with the weight from

while pampering her fortunate passengers in lavish

state-of-art command center. No tower is nec-

the added extension, she continues to hold her own

luxury.

essary as the view from four stories above the

alongside many of today’s lighter, modern

cobalt blue sea is spectacular.

sportfishers.

Marlena’s sleek profile unmistakably screams of

sexy, classic convertible lines. With expansive tackle

By CHRIS YOUNG

storage and a complete rigging center, her battle station

©Stephane Bravin (6)

means all business. Enveloped in rich teak at the center

1-49.indd 32

4/23/07 2:29:51 PM

hot yachts At a more efficient 12 knots, Marlena can cruise nearly 2,000 nautical miles in search of herintended quarry from any of five helm stations – extraordinary range for a super-yacht of this stature.

Sixteen-foot stabilizers – retractable underwater wings – ensure that guests are treated to silky smooth expeditions in even rough sea conditions.

Marlena completely blurs the lines on just

how luxurious a sportfish yacht should be. With all the fish-fighting action taking place directly at the stern, her interior mesmerizes guests with shear opulent grandeur. The striking art deco – also part of the retrofit – includes an enormous salon and lavish full-size bar highlighted by a spiral staircase that leads to an outdoor sky lounge and the primary bridge. Rich, earthy-toned veneers, ivory-trimmed sculptures and original works of art – including a Picasso - enhance the décor. Hidden from guests, her galley rivals those found in the finest restaurants in Rome. Also down below, an expansive master suite spans the entire beam of the ship with walk-in closets, his and her dressing rooms to either side of a huge bathing area, a semiprivate office and a quiet sitting room – it’s all here.

Four luxurious guest suites accessed off a single passageway, an upper-deck captain’s suite and aft crew quarters for six complete the accommodations.

In an age when luxury reigns supreme and bigger is often better, every inch of Marlena’s 144 feet stands unrivaled. After only one glimpse, it’s easy to conclude that she may never be dethroned as the world’s most stunning sportfish. • Do you own or operate an impeccable sportfish yacht in excess of 70 feet worthy of being showcased? Submit your inquiry via email to Editor@DestinationFish.travel.

(Yachts depicted are not gratuitous reviews or in any way an exchange for advertising considerations).

The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe 2007

1-49.indd 33

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

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4/20/07 12/4/06 5:17:12 5:45:56 PM PM

King of the Himalayas To catch the legendary mahseer, you need a strong arm and a cool head in this land of elephants, tigers and rhinos.

Article and Photos By nathan ward

T

he sun smoldered over the foothills of Nepal, silhouetting a g roup of villagers watching us on the r idge above.

Mark deftly double-hauled his line over the glitter ing waters of the Kar nali River. The Woolly Bugger dropped on the boiling seam where the smaller Bher i River merged. He let the fly sink deep before str ipping it back a few feet. And all hell broke loose.

The 9-weight rod spasmed as if tied to a fishtailing Chevy,

and the 10-pound leader easily snapped. His eyes gaping, Mark sputtered, “Wow, that fish hit like a freight train.� We watched its massive frame create a wide V as it sped off, disclosing its weight somewhere in the 40-pound class.

1-49.indd 36

4/20/07 5:19:41 PM

Taking a ride on a dugout taxi deep in Maoist territory on the Karnali River.

1-49.indd 37

4/20/07 5:20:29 PM

king of the himalayas

We grinned.We were in the game and chasing

those days, and at one point mused that when all

before flying to meet us for a wildlife safari

the biggest, strongest-fighting fish in the Himalayas.

that blows over, I’m heading straight there to fish. I’d

together.

heard of the mahseer, but wasn’t willing to risk my

remote corner of Nepal, lured by irresistible tales

skin for one.

British Raj era when the Brits likened its fighting

of the Himalayan mahseer. For decades, this near-

In May 2006, seemingly overnight, the

ability to that of the Atlantic salmon. Record-size

mythical fish has attracted anglers with its brutal,

situation in Nepal changed and the two sides signed

mahseer weigh over 100 pounds and consist largely

brawling tactics, and we wanted to go a few rounds

a peace agreement. With a collective sigh of relief,

of muscle and armored scales.

with one.We also intended to depart with our skin

Nepal quickly opened its doors again to tourism.

intact because this land also sported thick-skinned

Mark and I soon took off aboard Yeti Air – that

river that appeared extremely remote on the map

rhinos and man-eating tigers – plenty enough

name itself intriguing – and flew past icy, fractured

actually was heavily populated.This bode ill for our

diversion to turn a simple fishing trip into a wild

peaks to the Karnali River and our date with the

quest because the Tharu tribesemen turned out to

adventure.

mahseer.

be keen fishermen with no-holds-barred. They used

My friend Mark Price and I journeyed to this

Fishing for mahseer first became popular in the

We soon realized that the lower section of the

We chose the Karnali for two reasons: On

spears, hand-lines and drift nets to catch mahseer, and

a map it looked remote and that usually makes

never mind anything so fanciful as spin or fly gear.

I felt lucky to be here, deep in western

for prime fishing, and the river runs through

Judging from the big scales scattered about the shore,

Nepal, an area known for traditional Tharu

Bardia National Park, Nepal’s most pristine

the tribesmen are quite successful at it.

culture and rumored to be the heartland of

wildlife park. We’d pursue our dream to catch

the Maoists. For years, the rebels and the Nepalese

mahseer while our wives toured Kathmandu

afternoon camped at a promising pool. Within

The Wild, Wild West

Army fought in these hinterlands, a conflict that killed over 13,000 people. I followed the news in

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

Undaunted, we carried on and in late

A rare triple on mahseers by a visiting plug-caster earns the admiration of young Nepalese anglers.

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 5:21:46 PM

king of the himalayas

minutes we dropped flies and stripped them up the

Photos from left to right: Greetings from a Hindu holy man; Nepal’s capital city of

eddy lines, lost in the overpowering magic of fishing

Kathmandu is a kaleidoscope of pageantry and culture.

new waters.At any moment, I knew we’d hook into

stories about catching big mahseer, with catches of

excellent boatmen, but we didn’t think they could run

a big one.

fish from 23 to 40 pounds commonplace and battles

those rapids without flipping. Indeed, we’d found our

By dark our shoulders ached, but not a single

with monsters well over 60 now and then. Mark

honey hole.

bite. Returning to camp, we gaped at the sight

showed them his fly box and they laughed with glee,

of a bonfire burning on the shore next to our

with two of the native boys dancing around holding

could, but we still needed to paddle like mad to get into

campsite, with dozens of people around the flames.

big mouse flies and making squeaking noises.

the middle of the rapids and finesse our way toward the

Unknowingly, we’d pitched tents below a big village

Finding the Sweet Spot

hidden in the jungle. It was like camping at the town

Our guides rafted up the Bheri as far as they

pool. It still looked like we’d misjudged it, but at the last second, Moonsie – one of our guides – jumped into

beach and everyone coming down to see who was

We broke camp early and knew if we wanted

the river and pulled us onto the rocks. After several

throwing a party.

to catch a mahseer on this river, we needed to find a

casts, Mark hooked the brute that I’d mentioned at the

Since the conflict in Nepal had turned deadly

location that local fishermen couldn’t reach. Hiking

beginning snapped his line as easily as a weightlifter

serious in the year 2000, no outsiders had chanced

upstream under a hot sun, we passed through mud-

breaks a pencil.

coming up this river. But here we were, walking

walled villages surrounded by glowing mustard fields.

up to a fire in the darkness in an almost unknown

We saw people casting nets and throwing spears

23-pound leader. “This is like fishing with a rope,” he

foreign land, surrounded by people who didn’t quite

everywhere, and wondered aloud if there were any

laughed, working the pool along with my casts. His rod

know what to make of us. Mark and I raised worried

mahseer left in the river at all.

bowed again, the line see-sawing excitedly. Finally, a

eyebrows at each other because we had no idea what

to expect.

rivers, we spotted a small island of rocks in the middle

Unlike the first strike, this fish turned out to be a

Whether one-time guerilla fighters or not,when

of the rapids. Immediately below, the rivers joined

youngster. As our Nepalese friends sang and danced

one fisherman meets another, talk turns to fishing.We

in a jumble of rapids that smoothed out into a deep

to celebrate, Mark coaxed the fish to shore, its golden

were relieved at their affable nature, and they all had

pool.The locals, with their heavy dugout canoes, were

body reflecting the sunlight.

DestinationFish.travel

1-49.indd 39

Finally, at the confluence of the Bheri and Karnali

After losing the big fish, Mark tied on a heavier

mythical mahseer ate the fly and Mark set the hook.

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

39

4/20/07 5:22:58 PM

king of the himalayas

This mahseer measured 24 inches – considered

Ü Where to Toss the Bags

small for these waters – with scales like a river goddess

The peaceful future of Nepal looks

and heavily muscled but still sleek. When released,

very promising. Since the signing of the

the fish showed plenty of fight left as it raced back

peace agreement, Nepal is a good place to travel again. The Maoists recently joined the Government of Nepal and plan to work on their goals through official means. I

into the deep pool. Mark, noticeably content, said with a head nod,“I’m happy to put that one on my list.”

I felt happy for Mark, but I couldn’t contain

traveled there extensively in 2006 and had

my envy. Having flown all the way to Nepal, I

no problems. It’s important to note that

desperately wanted to hook one myself . I cast until

tourists were never targeted in the conflict,

dark with mahseer rising all around to tease me, but

and

as dark closed in we reluctantly climbed into the raft,

both

sides

support

developing

sustainable tourism as a way to improve

ran the rapids and camped on the sandy shore.

Nepal’s rural areas.

Down to the Park

Nepal is landlocked and tucked into

South Asia at the northeast border of India.

First trick: Get yourself to the capital city of

In the morning we floated lazily downstream

Kathmandu, served by a number of major

toward Bardia National Park past villages and

international airlines. From there it’s about

picnicking families. It was a warm day and we took

an hour commuter flight to Nepalguni, the

time to enjoy the scenery. In fact, we took too

away, a herd of Asian elephants strolled toward the

nearest airport to Bardia National Park.

much time and late afternoon found us paddling

river. Caught in the tumbling current, we floated

We were met by a representative of Rhino

hard downstream to reach tree stands where we

inexorably closer to the most dangerous beasts in the

planned to camp safely above the jungle.

jungle, and we realized with great anxiety that this

Above: Chisapani village girls smile on their way to fetching river water. Below: Rhino Lodge guides pose with Mike Price and a fly-caught mahseer.

Lodge Bardia (www.rhinolodgebardia.com) and taken by jeep about 90 kilometers (56 miles) to the property for check-in; we likewise received a ride back to the airport

Rounding a bend, Rajan, our other guide,

shouted, “Stop! Back paddle. Fast.” Barely 100 yards

after our stay.

Nearly all the lodgings in Bardia

National Park are fairly basic, but we very much enjoyed our stay at Rhino Lodge.

A joint venture by British and Nepali management, we found rooms to be clean and decent – not something to be taken for granted in many remote places.

The cottage-style rooms have private bathrooms with running hot and cold water, fans, and walls with native paintings.

The lodge offers fishing guides and

experienced nature guides, safaris and an attractive dining hall with excellent Napalese, Indian, Chinese and Continental cuisine. Also, in my opinion the lodge’s bar is the area’s best watering hole.

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 5:23:52 PM

king of the himalayas Ü on the water

The Himalayan mahseer are large-scaled

carps of the Cyprinidae family. Mahseers inhabit rivers and lakes but seek streams with fast currents and rocky bottoms for breeding.

They feed on insects, frogs and smaller fish.

They’ve been caught up to nine feet in length and 118 pounds in the past, but trophy-size fish nowadays are in the 50-pound-plus class.

Go to www.himalayanoutback.com – I’m going with those folks on my next visit.

The Nepalese guides in Bardia know

nothing about fly fishing so be prepared to do it all yourself. However, they will work tirelessly and do everything in their power to make you happy. Bring an 8- or 9 weight rod fitted with a sinking line. An 18-pound leader or thereabout is enough for most mahseer, although a really big one could snap it. On the business end, fish deep with thick-bodied Boat ramps in Nepal, such as this one at a river put-in, tend to be challenging even with four-wheel-drive vehicles.

black or green flies, including Muddlers, Vivas, Black Matukas and Woolly Buggers. Mark

could get really interesting. Paddling randomly

they warned. “Elephants can’t walk on rocks.”

caught his fish on a green Woolly Bugger with

and unsynchronized, we had to trust luck to

They said nothing about how to avoid tigers and

black legs.

miss the beasts if they entered the water now

rhinos. Ignorance being bliss, I somehow settled

just ahead of us. Probably due to our frenzied

into a sleep.

splashing, fortunately the elephants turned back

and ambled toward the jungle.

The best seasons for mahseer are during

low water from mid-February to early April, and after the monsoon from October to early

All still alive in the bleary-eyed dawn, we

December. They’re found across the entire

gulped at the sight of fresh rhino tracks that

Himalayas – northeast and northwest India, Nepal, Bhutan and Myanmar. In the river,

As darkness fell we found ourselves nowhere

crossed the beach just a few hundred yards away.

near the tree stands. We faced the choice of

We soon set off downstream, stopping to fish

ends of big pools, right before the rapids. The

paddling the swirling river in the dark or camping

good water, but the mahseer refused to take

best technique seems to be casting in front of

on the beach in the middle of high elephant grass

a fly. We spent the day casting from beaches

– in a park filled with tigers. The moonless night

covered with fresh leopard tracks and avoided

made it impossible to even see the river, so the

the quicksand areas pointed out by the guides.

beach became our reluctant choice. To put this

Nonetheless, an adventurer cannot help but

in perspective, this was like taking a cot, sneaking

enjoy the entire setting, particular as those elusive

into a zoo, letting all the animals out of their

mahseers flashed here and there, tantalizing us.

and enjoy the wildlife.

cages and sleeping in the middle of it. To put it

We knew we could easily nail them on spin gear

mildly, all of us were scared.

using lures or even more so with frogs as bait.

mahseers prefer river confluences and the tail

the whitewater and doing a deep, dead drift with short strips.

For a really wild adventure, book a

whitewater trip down the Western Seti River where there are rumored to be big fish and very few people. This will take about 10 days and you can still finish at Bardia National Park To fish the Bheri or Seti rivers in Nepal, go

with a whitewater-experienced company like Ultimate Descents (www.ultimatedescents.

Gathering firewood in the head-high grass,

But Mark and I – determined and headstrong

com) and tell them you want a fishing-specific

the guides built fires around camp and stayed up

– just couldn’t put down the fly gear. Fish or

itinerary. In India, you can contact Misty

all night stoking the flames. “If elephants come

no fish, we relished the adrenaline rush of this

Dillon (www.himalayanoutback.com), the only

to the camp, run into the rocks as fast as you can,”

unique experience.

DestinationFish.travel

1-49.indd 41

mahseer fishing guide in Asia I’m aware of.

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

41

4/20/07 5:24:48 PM

king of the himalayas challenges of the Karnali River and Bardia National Park.

Back at the Rhino Lodge Bardia where

we stayed, the staff greeted us with cold beers and a delicious traditional meal served on banana leaves. We told our tales about wild animals, dancing around campfires, sleeping beside a Himalayan river, yarning with rebels, and of course pursuing the wild mahseer in one of the world’s most mystifying and beautiful countries – a true fishing adventure indeed.

Other Notes of Interest about Nepal:

Ü Bring Your Camera

I finally managed several takes but no hookups

When heading to western Nepal,

while Mark released two more nice-size

try and book the flight for the morning

mahseers. I was jealous, but at the same time

• Official Name: Kingdom of Nepal

when skies are usually clearer; sit at a

glad we both didn’t get skunked.

• Area: 147,181 sq. km. (56,136 sq. mi.), about

window seat and request that the pilot

take a route close to the mountains.

grinning Mark looked around and remarked,

• Capital: Kathmandu

It will be one of the best views of the

“This is the first time I’ve been fly fishing

• Terrain: Flat and fertile in the southern region,

Himalayas that you’ll ever see.

when I’ve had to scan the shores for tigers.”

the Himalayas in the north contain eight of the

And it was true. Our eyes forever

world’s 10 highest peaks, including Mt. Everest.

We took a few days in Kathmandu

the size and shape of Tennessee

Hearing a distant roar at one point, a

to visit the incredible temples and

fanned the shorelines and our ears stayed

• Population: 27.1 million

handicraft shops – definitely worth the

tune for any primeval utterances, keeping us

• Religions: Mostly Hindu

time. We found Bardia National Park

constantly on edge and excited. After fishing

• Language: Mainly Nepali

to be an uncelebrated jewel of Nepal.

all day, we pulled the raft out of the water

• Government: Constitutional monarchy

Chitwan National Park might be better

under an iridium sunset. We reunited with

• Currency:The Nepalese Rupee (71.07 = $1US)

known, but Bardia is more pristine and

our wives, who had their own stories of

Visit the U.S. State Departments web site for

you’ll see a greater number of animals,

adventure during the time we confronted the

more details about Nepal:

including some of the world’s most

Mustang

Kathmanduc

escorted excursions with nature walks, jeep rides, rafting, safaris, and even

Ga nd ak

es R.

Gh

agh

R.

ng

I N D I A

ara

R.

© 2001 National Geographic Society

42

1-49.indd 42

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

Bhaktapur

Bhimphedi Patan Hetauda

a Ga

atop elephants through the jungle.

Kodari

Ramechhap

Sun

i

Rajbiraj .

R si

in

His next fishing trip takes him

Kanchenjunga 28,210 ft (8,598 m)

Ko s i R .

Udaipur Garhi Dhankuta Birganj Malangwa

Janakpur

photographer, lives

Bhutan with his wife Andrea

R. un Ar Makalu 27,825 ft (8,481 m)

R.

Tansen Butwal r Bhairahawa

Mt. Everest 29,035 ft (8,850 m)

ur

Pyuthan

e Tulsipur

26,503 ft (8,078 m) Pokhara Gorkha

m

Annapurna

Baglung

o

Nepalganj

and

a R.

Ilam

to northwest India and the holy waters of the Ganga River. •

Jhapa

Biratnagar

tK

Bh Sallyan

Bra hm ap utr

Muktinath

Dhaulagiri 26,795 ft (8,167 m)

Sap

Dailekh

Ta

Jumla

Kal i R.

Silgarhi

Dhangadhi

from over a dozen one- to nine-day,

Nathan Ward, a freelance writer

100 mi 100 km

0

.

T

0

Galwa

. ti R

iR

NEPAL

Simikot

.

er

iR

.

al

li R

ak

e Dandeldhura S

Most lodges offer great tours. At

Rhino Lodge Bardia you can choose

ah

Ka

M

rna

endangered species: Asian elephants, three-toed rhinos and tigers.

http://www.state.gov/r/pa/ei/bgn/5283.htm.

C H I N A

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 5:25:49 PM

Destination....an ywhere.

In Style & Comfort.

gause.indd 1-49.indd 431

4/20/07 3:54:51 5:27:57 PM

resort report

w h e r e a dv e n t u r e and l u x u ry m e e t Each issue of Destination Fish will bring you news of resort openings, renovations, marinas, up-and-coming lodges and camps from all corners of the world. Only web site addresses are provided because each site provides all the specific contact details necessary.

By KELLY BRADEN

While a luxury tent sounds like an oxymoron,

you’ll find 20 of them here nestled among tropical hardwoods or near the ocean. Each is partially enclosed by a solid wall with a surrounding coralstone deck. Fully air-conditioned, each roomy tent features hardwood flooring, Indonesian island artwork, a sitting area,

Amanwana, Indonesia

king-size bed, a writing desk and a large bathroom. The dining room

Amanwana, set in a secluded cove on the island’s west coast, is a short hop

– offering Asian and Western dishes – and a bar face the sea, with an

from fabled Bali and Moyo, where whale sharks and giant manta rays migrate.

open-air pavilion and coconut pillars supporting the tropical structure.

Fishing pressure is low and the opportunities fantastic for sailfish, black marlin,

An alfresco barbecue and campfire dinners are often provided as well as

mackerel, dogtooth tuna, barracuda and reef species – all in the same outing.

sunset and starlight dinner cruises. Amenities include a library, boardwalk,

The resort utilizes two vessels for sport fishing – a 32-foot, high-speed catamaran

dive center, spa and gift shop. Amanwana provides some of the best diving

and a 25-foot Boston Whaler with dual 130-horsepower outboards. Each is fully

in the Indonesian archipelago and some of the top sites are less than 10

equipped with modern fishing rods, reels, lures and tackle. Cruising and island-

minutes away by boat.

hopping boats include a 55-foot luxury yacht and a 40-footer with sun canopy.

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

For more information visit: www.Amanresorts.com

cont. on pg. 46

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 5:32:57 PM

m a r k r ay s t u D i O

Original art · giclee’s · tOurnament Designs · cOmmissiOns · murals www .m ark r ay s tuDiO . cOm DestinationFish.travel

1-49.indd 45

· 803.675.4039

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

45

4/20/07 5:34:16 PM

resort report

Zendzur Lodge, Kamchatka, Russia

accessing over 30 miles of

Ready to go where few outsiders tread? Zendzur represents the only fixed

classic freestone riffles and

lodge in the Kamchatka Peninsula and is about an hour and a half flight by

runs, where they can cast

helicopter from the hub city of Petropavlovsk. Here you’ll find the completely

to holding or free-rising

wild Zhupanova River, surrounded by virgin forests full of wildlife in the shadow

rainbow trout – some

of a snow-capped volcano.The luxurious Russian wilderness lodge – staffed with

sure to be the largest they have ever taken. Fly anglers will score well with mouse

Russians and Americans – overlooks the river, with large guest suites and cabins,

patterns, streamers on sink-tip lines and traditional dry flies. From late July into early

and a very inviting natural hot spring onsite. Expect savory dishes of seafood, dacha-

October, huge Asiatic white-spotted char averaging 27 inches and many up to 36

grown vegetables, home-baked breads and pastries.When salmon and DollyVarden

inches pour into the river from the North Pacific. Massive schools of sea-running

are in season, shore lunches are served daily on the river.Accommodations include

DollyVarden char fill the waters all season and they average 12 to 18 inches. In late

suites and cabins, each with a private bathroom, shower and sitting room.

August and September, you’ll enjoy shots at silver salmon.

For more information visit: www.flyfishingtravel.com/kamchatka/zendzur.htm

Every morning, anglers head out with their guide in powerful jet boats,

Poronui Ranch, New Zealand

Combine a luxury fly-fishing lodge

with the spectacular setting of New Zealand’s North Island, and you’ve got something special. With nearly 25 miles of water and adjacent mountains, you feel totally remote while fishing some of the most prized rivers and streams in the world. More than 100 miles of roads and tracks wind their way along the streams, you can overnight at a streamside camp via horseback or an off-road vehicle operated by one of the full-time guides. cont. on pg.48

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4/20/07 5:42:03 PM

Dolphin

DestinationFish.travel

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resort report

hunting lodge atmosphere is achieved.A modern sports center offers a gym and health club

Poronui Ranch, New Zealand cont.

facilities, with a full restaurant that boasts one of New Zealand’s finest modern

You can also get into otherwise inaccessible areas with the ranch’s helicopter

underground cellars, featuring an extensive collection of over 10,000 local and

charter service, giving you shots at huge brown and rainbow trout.

international wines. Besides fishing, lodge guests can enjoy hiking, horseback

The main lodge and outlying cabins evolved from a rustic fishing camp

riding, mountain biking, shooting and rafting.

For more information visit: www.poronuiranch.com

into a luxurious world-class accommodation. Even so, a traditional fishing and

Chiawa Camp, Zambia

tigerfish that reach 20 pounds in size as well as vundu catfish reaching 70 pounds

Experience a true African adventure at Chiawa Camp on the banks of the Zambezi

and more. No netting is allowed and a total catch-and-release policy equates to

River. An upstairs viewing deck features a thatched lounge and dinner finds you

plenty of action with the saber-toothed fish. Best fishing takes place September

relaxing at an alfresco veranda. Nightly campfires take in the sounds of the magical

to November. Due to its privileged exclusivity inside the National Park, only two

African night. Enjoy comfortable and safe accommodations under a grove of

boats can be operated at one time with a maximum six fishing guests. Eighteen-

mahogany trees amid day- and night-game drives, guided bush walks, river cruises

foot pontoon boats come with a guide, fuel and tackle, but most anglers bring their

and canoeing.You’ll see hippos, elephants, lions, leopards and prolific bird life.

own gear (including wire leaders to ward off tigerfish teeth).

Zambia offers one of the few places in the world to fish for the notorious

48

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

1-49.indd 48

For more information visit: www.chiawa.com • DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 5:45:59 PM

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The Bluewater model comes with your choice of a pair of Yamaha or Suzuki outboards. The Yamaha and Suzuki 250 four stroke, sixcylinder option will provide the serious fisherman with a powerful, fuel efficient ride. New for 2007 are twin 200 gallon fuel tanks. This means more time fishing and less time at the docks.

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3/23/07 5:46:30 1:19:34 PM PM 4/20/07

Heron Island at the tip of a blue and green reef, with the surrounding deeper waters where world-class big-game fish await.

ŠTourism Queensland

Great b reef b

50-100.indd 50

4/20/07 6:09:50 PM

By STEVE COOPER

Shove off from Cairns and duke it out Aussie style in these legendary marlin waters.

barrier bounty

M

any world-class billfish anglers regard Cairns as the one of the greatest big-game

fishing capitals of the world. And with good reason – more black marlin in the 1,000-pound-plus class come to boat side off the Great Barrier Reef than anywhere else. From September to December each year, anglers arrive from all points of the globe to this Far North Queensland city, hoping to battle huge female marlin affectionately referred to as Granders or Julies.

It’s quite a big deal, and it costs big bucks. At

the peak of the black marlin season, anglers willing to spend $2,500 and more a day arrive full of enthusiasm and with thick wallets, and few go home disappointed. The high rollers not only charter game boats, they also stay at sea on live-aboard mother ships, which can double the cost of the trip.

Add in airfares, accommodations and spending time enjoying the special Australian ambiance, and we can be reaching amounts here that look like telephone numbers.

Despite all the dollars that many can afford,

an average angler can get in on the action with a little know-how and perseverance. It’s quite possible to fish Cairns on a budget by sharing charters and staying in budget accommodations. The costs to a half dozen anglers, for example, fishing for marlin for a week is about the same as staying at a lodge ©Tourism Queensland

in the Northern Territory and pursuing barramundi

50-100.indd 51

in the interior. It’s not cheap, mind you, but it’s definitely manageable if you’re intent on living the dream of an Australian fishing adventure.

4/20/07 6:10:46 PM

great barrier reef bounty

The marlin boom in Cairns began precisely

Cairns, the main jumping-off point to the Great Barrier

on September 25, 1966. On a crew’s off day,

Reef, presents a modern Australian city.

fishing mate Richard C. Obach aboard the Sea

line needed to kept so it could be examined

Glen Campbell to feed out teasers and baits.

Bay with Captain George Bransford reeled in

by the tournament committee. An unknowing

The spread consisted of two skipping garfish

a world record 1,064-pound marlin off Euston

deckhand’s decision to toss the leader over the

spring-rigged with skirts and 10/0 hooks, a

Reef. Word spread throughout the fishing world

side on the way back to port cost that angler

swimming mullet, and a Boone daisy chain

like ink dripped in water. Cairns, representing

$32,000 in prize money. I sure wouldn’t have

teaser sporting five plastic squid with a small

the jumping-off point to the Great Barrier Reef,

liked to be that deckie.

Watson’s tuna rigged to skip behind the fray.

soon found its docks swollen with anglers as

We began the troll a couple of kilometers

eager as prospectors hot on a gold rush.

More Than A One-Species Fishery

west of Pixie Reef and about 20 nautical miles

Although black marlin take the spotlight, other

northeast of Cairns. In the game-chair rod

million annual business, inevitably attracting

stars can make for exciting sport-fishing options.

holder sat a 12-kilogram (26-pound) rig at

well-known anglers such as Lee Marvin, Ernest

Most of that action takes place between 30 and 45

the ready with a leader attached to a baitfish

Borgnine, Jack Nicklaus and Greg Norman, to

kilometers (about 18 to 28 miles) offshore, inside

swimming around in a plastic container. As the

name just a few.

the Great Barrier Reef and near the reef openings.

Sea Baby IV swam down sea, Jack and fellow

I’m no less an addict, even if only casually

Here I enjoy light-tackle fights with juvenile black

angler Lindsay Dobe watched from the aft deck

watching the action at times. A few years ago

marlin and sailfish to about 50 kilograms (110

while on the fly bridge former skipper Laurie

I did a stint as an observer in a major Cairns

pounds) as well as Spanish mackerel and tuna.

Woodridge stood alongside Ross. Anticipation

tournament. These events attract big money and

I recently went on such a trip with

gripped us all as everyone eyed off the lures,

seriously dedicated competitors. Strict rules had

Cairns-based tackle guru Jack Erskine, who

waiting and wishing for a sailfish or marlin to

to be followed, and thus the observers placed

needed to field test some new Penn reels. With

rise.

on each boat to ensure everyone abided by the

a southeasterly wind blowing about 10 to 15

same rules. Accordingly, things can get dicey. On

knots and the seas a moderate chop, skipper

small black marlin made a move on one of the

one of the boats, an angler caught a big marlin,

Ross Finlayson reduced speed on the Sea Baby

garfish. Laurie spotted it right off and Ross

but under the tournament rules the leader

IV to about eight knots and signaled deckhand

gave urgent instructions to haul in the baits.

52

50-100.indd 52

Today, black marlin fishing alone is a $10

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

Less than an hour into the fishing day, a

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 6:11:34 PM

Clockwise From top, left to r ight: ©Tourism Queensland , ©Steve Cooper (2)

el

great barrier reef bounty

“You ready, Jack?” Ross called. By now we

only about 25 kilograms (55 pounds), but

could all see the slim, streamlined shape of the

the runs and jumps were still magic and

Ü Where to Toss the Bags

marlin cutting across the lures and baits, moving

dueling any size marlin on relatively light

left and right across the stern. The beaky seemed

tackle is a sweet option.

that offers the world’s largest reef

undecided. Jack dropped the live baitfish into the

system, exotic barrier islands, endless

wake and free-spooled line, relying on Ross’s keen

drag system purred under each shortening

beaches

eyes to tell him when the bait would be in front of

run. After 10 minutes, the fish came alongside

Cairns

the marlin. That live bait proved to be the trigger

and Glen leaned over, took hold of the bill

point to them all, framed between a

that pulled the marlin out of its indecision.

and gently lifted the marlin so the hook could

mountain range and the South Pacific’s

“He’s got it!” yelled Ross. “Let him take

be removed and the fish revived until released

Coral Sea.

some line, Jack. More line, more … now give

unharmed. From lift to release took less than a

it to him.”

minute, and off went the little black marlin no

from

At that, Jack flipped the bail arm over,

worse for the wear.We raised three more marlin

and packpacker options. For those

waited for the line to tighten and set the hook

that day; the biggest fish looked to be about 50

desiring secluded retreats, check out

– all done to perfection. Then again, Jack’s

kilograms (110 pounds), but it managed to eat

Fitzroy Island, Green Island, Bedarra

had plenty of practice, having caught more

two baits without us succeeding in a hook up.

Island, Dunk Island, Lizard Island,

than 400 marlin and sailfish on light tackle.

But this is offshore sight fishing at its best.

Double Island, Hinchinbrook Island,

He worked the rod low and maintained

Below left to right: This huge coral trout struck a jig along a seamount; a good catch of mackerel on a late-afternoon trip.

and Orpheus Island to Poruma Island.

control over the billfish. It may have been

Line sizzled through the guides and the

What can you say about an area

and

tropical

represents

the

rainforests? jumping-off

Cairns offers about 5,000 rooms 5-star

properties

to

budget

The city’s Esplanade sports a

gigantic

swimming

lagoon

plus

chic eateries and clubs. Take in the surrounding

timber-board

walks,

beautiful gardens and lovely views across Trinity Inlet. Cityport features the Cairns Convention Centre in the south section and the Marlin Marina in the north; the marina has become Clockwise From top, left to r ight: ©Tourism Queensland , ©Steve Cooper (2)

a virtual waterfront tourism magnet as well as a main springboard to the Great Barrier Reef. The city’s enormous seaport – Australia’s busiest – hosts super yachts and cruise lines.

Cairns International Airport serves

as a direct link to Japan, Asia, Europe, Papua New Guinea, New Zealand and North

America.

Domestic

airlines

access all of Australia’s major cities plus regional destinations.

DestinationFish.travel

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53

4/20/07 6:13:50 PM

The “grand prize” – a 1,000-pound-plus

Clockwise From Left to Right: ©Steve Cooper, ©Tourism Queensland

black marlin foams the ocean.

54

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 6:15:29 PM

el

great barrier reef bounty

The bait-and-switch method – universal as

is just as well because it’s quite the job to remove

it may be – is simple and effective. If a predator

a hook from the razor-lined jaws of a still-frisky

Ü

Bring Your Camera

rises and takes a trolled lure or bait, that’s great;

combatant.

You can stay at a lodge or B&B in the

if the fish rises in the spread but doesn’t look

rainforest and embark upon 4WD safaris to

convinced, a live bait is fed out while the other

All in the Timing

see crocodiles sunning themselves among

lines are reeled in.

Black marlin season runs from September

the mangroves. North of Port Douglas sits

Despite the consistent availability of this sort

to December along the outer edge of the Great

the Mossman Gorge where the Mossman

of action, Ross and Laurie become frustrated at

Barrier Reef from Cairns to Lizard Island. The

River tumbles under a suspension bridge

times. “Most people come up here for the big

best results often come in the late afternoon

and over huge granite boulders. Just

blacks in October and November,” Ross said,

starting at about 2 p.m. Depending on the

past the picturesque Wonga Beach is the

“but Cairns has a lot more to offer than 1,000-

location and the degree of difficulty getting back

quaint Daintree Village with its yesteryear

pound marlin. Plus, you can catch the horses in

to anchorage, most boats fish as late as 6.30 p.m.

character and arts and crafts shops. Hop

September and December just as well.”

The usual set-up involves two rods trolled

aboard the Daintree River Ferry into the

Early that day we also released two sailfish

from the outriggers and up to four rods pulling

Daintree National Park and move along a

while trolling an area known as Onyx Reef.

lures. Top baits include scad, bonito, scaly

winding road leading north past Cow Bay,

About an hour before the tide change, Ross

mackerel, Spanish mackerel, yellowfin tuna,

the breathtaking Alexandra Range, the

maneuvered the Sea Baby onto a seamount and

queenfish and rainbow runner. While baits can

Coopers Creek wilderness area and Cape

we started laying a cube (chum) trail. Hook-ups

go to 30 pounds when monster blacks appear,

Tribulation.

occurred often on scaly and Spanish mackerel as

the typical offering weighs one to five pounds

well as bottom fish like red bass. The mackerel

for swimming scads and 8 to 12 for skip baits;

drive south, provides a country retreat and

action in particular seemed to go on as long as

most should be trolled just under and on the

romantic getaway. Prospect for gold, bask

we fed out baits. The macks take off like express

surface at about six knots.

in picturesque swimming holes and enjoy

trains and line fairly sings as it cuts through the water. Fortunately these fish are tasty boot, which

Visitors enjoy witnessing past and present customs in the Tjapukai Aboriginal Culture attraction in Cairns.

The Cairns Highlands, about an hour’s

charming villages and towns peppered throughout the mountains, rivers, lakes, volcanic peaks and craters.

Culture-seekers will be fascinated

by the Aboriginal, Thursday Islander and Torres Strait Islander people, which Clockwise From Left to Right: ©Steve Cooper, ©Tourism Queensland

offer some of Australia’s best aboriginal experiences. You can enjoy tours revealing prehistoric and modern artworks, body painting, bush foods and medicines, customs and festivals.

Hikers will find scenic strolls along

rainforest boardwalks and sites around Cairns, Port Douglas, Kuranda, the Cairns Highlands, the Misty Mountains trails and the Wet Tropics Great Walk near Mission Beach. cont. on pg 56 DestinationFish.travel

50-100.indd 55

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

55

4/20/07 6:16:03 PM

Ü

Bring Your Camera cont.

Diving

the

Great

Barrier

Clockwise From Bottom Left: ©Tourism Queensland (2)

great barrier reef bounty

Reef

necessitates buying or renting a good underwater camera to capture images of the myriad sea life and coral reef color shows. Choose from day trips to liveaboard dive vessels for up to a week or more. Of course all levels of divers can partake in the trips, with a great many dive operators offering all gear needed plus guided trips – there’s safety in numbers.

Landlubbers

will

appreciate

the

Great Tropical Drive that incorporates the stunning coastal road through Cairns

Don’t forget that blue marlin cruise these same

to Cooktown, Innisfail and Port Douglas.

waters, offering an exciting alternative from

Above: Kangaroos at Wild World-Cairns.

Below: Koala bears in the Billabong Sanctuary always attract throngs of adoring tourists.

January to April after the black marlin season closes.

with braided line and large surface poppers that give

Most blues succumb to trolled lures although a

a splashy sound that attracts many aggressive species.

good many baits work as well such as skipjack and

yellowfin tuna.

Charters Towers.

action, although May to January will see the most

Our winter months (May to September) are

activity. Black marlin and sailfish represent blue-

best for Spanish mackerel and juvenile black marlin

water favorites with the bait-and-switch technique

up to 100 pounds. Warmer months (October

on beefy 12- to 14-weight gear. Dual-hook Flashy

to March) provide good fishing for wahoo, big

Profile flies, large multi-hackled poppers and tube

Spanish mackerel, sailfish and black marlin up to 250

flies get plenty of attention. Somewhat lighter fly

pounds.

tackle results in many catches of Spanish mackerel,

Jigging and popper-casting enthusiasts target

cobia, small yellowfin and bluefin tuna, and false

May to January along the Great Barrier Reef.

albacore; go with baitfish-imitating patterns with

Anglers jig the offshore shoals, reef edges and the

intermediate or fast-sinking lines.

Continental Shelf. It’s a lucky dip of species that

You’ll find lots of stop points for picture taking. Same with all the rural and outback communities of Mareeba, Atherton and

For more details about Cairns tourism,

visit

www.tropicalaustralia.com.au;

Queensland tourism, www.tq.com.au.

for

includes dogtooth

yellowfin tuna,

Fly-fishing aficionados can enjoy year-round

We’ve yet to even touch upon estuary and

and wahoo,

Spanish mackerel, amberjack, giant trevally, coral trout and mangrove jacks. Short, fasttaper rods with reels spooled with braided lines seem to be the most popular with jigs of many styles and colors.

Popper tackle consists of stiff 7- to 8-foot spinning rods and large-capacity reels, again

56

50-100.indd 56

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 6:16:42 PM

el

great barrier reef bounty freshwater fishing, which is fabulous throughout

casting to banks and snags. No barramundi made

North Queensland. I fished a June day with guide

an appearance, but we snared a few bream and cod

Kieran Livingstone when dark clouds hung low

until a school of queenfish arrived to crash our small

in the valley and blocked the sunlight, turning the

poppers and saltwater flies.The queens leaped several

• Official name: Commonwealth of Australia

normally verdant mountains gray.

times between long dashes for freedom.

• Area: 2,988,888 square miles (7,741,220

We decided to take a punt on Russell Heads, the

junction and estuary system of the Russell and

a bit skinny. While none of our catch measured

continent that includes the southern island of

Mulgrave rivers. The ramp displayed the usual

under a meter (three feet) or so in length, weights

Tasmania

“Beware of Crocodiles” warning.

only ranged from 7 to 10 kilograms (about 15 to 22

Kieran walked down the ramp and pointed a

pounds).The wind blew, rain fell and yet the fishing

torch beam into the undercut bank – just to make

action went on relentlessly for more than three hours.

sure. He explained that recently the local ranger had

Add the exceptional beauty of land converging with

taken his Jack Russell terrier for a walk. As usual,

water, and you can’t ask for much more.

he tossed a stick into the river and the little yapper went after it. On this morning, however, his dog came frantically scooting out of the water, the stick firmly in its mouth and about four meters of lizard taking dead aim at its derriere. Fortunately the dog and ranger escaped, but only barely.

The fishing at Russell Heads turned out to

be a bit slow at first. We worked around the edges,

Queenfish, while quite pretty to behold, are

Offshore, nearshore and inshore, you’ve

probably become rightly convinced that coming

Other Notes of Interest about Australia:

square kilometers), the world’s smallest

• Capital: Canberra, with Sydney the largest city • Geography: Australia is divided into six states; Queensland encompasses the northeast portion, which includes Cairns.

• Government: Constitutional monarchy with democratic political system • Language: English • Currency: Australian dollar ($1.27 U.S. = $1)

to Cairns is well worth the expense and trouble.

Although odds at tangling with a big black marlin

Steve Cooper, a former investigative journalist, writes regular

rank high, plenty of other species make any trip to

fishing columns in three Australian newspapers as well as two

this fabulous, famous fishing area something each

magazines. A native of Geelong,Australia, he’s authored several

angler will always treasure.

books and hosts a weekly radio show in Melbourne. •

Big Fish Made easy...

Australia go fish

it’ s not that far ...

www.gofishaustralia.com DestinationFish.travel

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

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4/20/07 6:17:32 PM

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you think you know me? the lifelong journey of a florida legend.

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Captain Mike Genoun

L

et’s play a guessing game. Because of my popularity among angling’s elite, I’m instantly recognizable. You may have heard of me, or possibly you have even seen something that looks very much like me hanging on someone’s wall. As a matter of fact, I’m sure you could pick me out of a crowd from a mile away. I’m world-renowned for the challenge I provide even the most seasoned angling veterans, and I represent a highly- prized catch due to my tendency to strike with a vengeance, jump, tail-walk, and put on an extraordinary aerial display. I’ve made many of the best fishermen laugh, and more than a few cry. I’m aggressive, I’m powerful, I’m cunning, but most importantly, I’m stunning. Yet, even as famed as I am, in the far corners of my reach, I’m a difficult cat to catch.

I typically hang out far from shore, which makes it an extreme challenge for foreign conservationists to locate, tag, and collect data on me and my next of kin.

inshore and offshore, resident and visiting anglers. Readers receive a wealth of

Locally, you know that crossing paths is a different story altogether as my hungry brethren and I regularly roam your domain no more than minutes from shore. Even when you don’t know it, we’re there, and when early wintertime rolls around and the water begins to cool, we invade your territory in massive hordes beyond your wildest dreams. For every one of us you see, there are a hundred more hunting down and devouring everything in our sights. Regardless if its tasty herring, tiny tuna, or a scad, sardine, or squid- if it’s moving, it’s dead meat! If it doesn’t exhibit genuine fear for its life, then chances are, we may take a brief second look, but that’s about as much valuable energy as we’ll expend.

©ScottKerrigan.com

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22 FLORIDA SPORT FISHING MAGAZINE November/December 2006

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14 FLORIDA SPORT FISHING MAGAZINE November/December 2006

FloaT TeCh Turning The liFejaCkeT indusTrY upside doWn. Float Tech, Inc. introduced its patented and USCG approved FloatTech® Rally Jacket in 2006. This inflatable lifejacket is providing boaters comfort and versatility far exceeding other available lifejackets. Ideal for any boating activity, Float Tech contains a removable inflatable life-vest. During warm days, you can easily zip off the sleeves of the jacket or simply unzip the liner and wear it as a stand alone inflatable. Unlike traditional foam devices, the Float-Tech® inflatable turns an unconscious victim upright, a big benefit for those who find themselves in life threatening situations. Float Tech jackets can be armed in either automatic or manual modes, allowing wearers to select the setting appropriate for their activity. The lightweight jacket is constructed with 3M reflective piping for easy visibility, and sleeve cargo pockets for essential gear.

To commemorate its 20th anniversary, Krieger recently launched the second generation of their innovative Tidal Watch collection.

Acclaimed for its ability to accurately display tidal information, the Tidal Chronoscope can predict with uncanny precision the next high or low tide. Each Tidal Wave Chronoscope is handmade in Switzerland, is encased in stainless steel, and is fitted with a double dome antireflective sapphire crystal.

Rather than meters, the Tidal Wave is measured with a water resistance rating to one-half-mile.

The attractive timepiece is boldly oversized to make for easy reading even in a blinding gale, and the large tide indicator hand rotates clockwise to indicate the precise state of the tide. A detailed sub-dial provides for the tidal range, neap, and spring tides. Screw down push buttons enable the wearer to quickly set the tides and moon phase at a moment’s notice while the manual rotating bezel is engraved with a solar compass. Thoroughly masculine and a technical marvel, the Tidal Wave is available in a wide choice of dial colors with a steel bracelet or luxurious natural rubber strap.

Krieger Watch Corporation 305.534.8433 • KriegerWatch.com

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koneZone raZor sharp all The Time At the recent ICAST show, the International Convention of Allied Sportfishing Trades, held in Las Vegas, NV, the KoneZone Hook Sharpener was a big hit. Simply put, this sharpener will make you a more successful angler. Rustproof space-age polymer and brass make the KoneZone maintenance-free. If that is not enough, the speed at which it takes to sharpen a hook with this easy-to-use product is remarkable. Get your baits and lures back in the action with the confidence that your hooks are sticky-sharp. With the KoneZone, hook points can be honed to a razor sharp edge in rough conditions or even in the dark without even looking. Simply insert straight-point hooks into the hole in the cap, hold the handle stationary with the palm of your hand, and turn the cap with your thumb and forefinger. The patented design positions the hook at the precise angle required to sharpen the point of the hook in seconds flat! Ask for the KoneZone Hook Sharpener at your favorite tackle retailer or order online.

KoneZone 503.348.9442 • KoneZone.com

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s-1200: The nexT generaTion in deep-drop gear

Trap Tails TesTed BY Fishermen For Fishermen

Lindgren-Pitman has broken new ground with the development of the ultimate 12volt deep drop reel for serious recreational anglers. Built to exceed commercial standards, the S-1200 features a back lit counter, digital display, a stop-atzero function, and a durable gear-driven level wind. This makes for truly hands-free retrieval. The reel has a two-stage threedisk drag system that offers both superior life and g r e a t e r adjustability over any other deep-drop reel on the market. The new cantilever spool design allows for a completely sealed drive system for long, reliable, maintenance-free use. Spool changes are also a snap. The S-1200 is so versatile that it can also be used as a teaser outfit when big game fishing or as an electric kite reel.

The unit is designed, machined, and assembled

by Lindgren-Pitman in Pompano Beach, Florida. One look and you’ll see the S-1200 is the most rugged and ergonomically designed electric reel on the market today. The S-1200 comes standard with a full one-year warranty from the date of purchase.

Trap Lures, Inc. is a new company reinventing an old idea using 21st Century technology. A Trap Tail is what the old timers used to call a feather; although, the ingenious rig is not made of feathers any longer. Today’s Trap Tails are manufacturing using only high quality, durable nylon, a proven fish attracting, and fish catching material. Trap Tails effortlessly slide over rigged ballyhoo and strip baits- perfect for kingfish, dolphin, tuna, and sailfish. Custom color combinations are available in both four-inch and eight-inch models. Use with any leader/hook combination up to 200 lb. test.

All Trap Lure products are hand tied in the USA, and the company is so sure that you will experience a greater level of success; they offer a 100% money back guarantee.

Lindgren-Pitman, Inc. 954.943.4243 • Lindgren-Pitman.com

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All rings are delivered in a velvet gift box for that special someone. Available designs include anchors, bluefish, bonefish, cobia, dolphin, dorado, hammerhead shark, hogfish, grouper, blue marlin, white marlin, permit, redfish, sailfish, seatrout, mako shark, snook, swordfish, tarpon, tuna, turtle, wahoo, and more…

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S

G ialmon ant of Goodnews River

A visit to this Alaskan hideaway captures the essence of America’s Last Frontier.

by BOB STEARNS numbers of Dolly Vardens, and some trophy-size grayling as well. The third

reaches of one small river emptying into the Bering Sea 200 miles north

branch of the Goodnews is the short South Fork, too small for an established

of the Aleutian Islands offers the best in all-around availability. Certainly better

lodge but accessible via small jet boats. It too offers several species of salmon

spots exist for any given single species elsewhere in the Pacific Northwest, but

and also rainbow trout.

nowhere that I’ve fished in over 30 years of going to our 49th state provides

better all-around species abundance.

about five miles from the mouth. This puts it right in the middle of the best

The lodge is on the North Fork, right at the upper end of tidewater and

This river appears on the maps in southwest Alaska as the Goodnews.

of the river’s fishing, with miles of tidewater downstream where most of the

Since it’s over 400 miles from the nearest paved road, the only access is by air.

biggest kings, silvers, pinks and chum salmon are caught.The lodge also lies a

And since the Goodnews River Lodge is the only camp on the entire 80-

short distance below an endless number of productive upstream spots where

mile length of the main branch (North Fork) of the river (one other lodge

Dolly Varden, rainbow trout and grayling will be encountered. The lodge

has a small spike camp a long way up the Middle Fork), it offers exclusive

provides one guide per two anglers, and I can attest to the fact that these

access not only to all five species of salmon, but also rainbow trout, massive

guides know when to fish the best spots for whatever you want to target.

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From left to right: ©Bob Stearns

I

f you consider all five of Alaska’s salmon species, it’s arguable that the tidal

4/20/07 6:41:02 PM

Below: An overview of the remote Goodnews River Lodge. Opposite page: A variety of fly patterns usually draw prompt attention, such as this foam popper that fooled a silver salmon.

The Salmon Runs

bright chum salmon begin to appear by the second week July, rapidly invading

The Goodnews is noted for one of the best king salmon runs in Alaska.The

sloughs and backwater spots in tidewater where they hold for several weeks before

fish average larger than most other rivers, typically 30 to 35 pounds. The camp

starting their spawning run up river. Anglers familiar with the uninspired fight

record is 73, but over 40 is quite common and over 50 happens every year. Because

offered by dark spawning chums in other rivers are always pleasantly surprised by

the river features a shallow, low-gradient stream, it’s also ideal for fly fishing. My

the energetic aerial brawl typical of these fish, who will often readily take surface

largest on that tackle to date is 58 ½ pounds, but I’ve had several much larger

flies as well as subsurface lures on light spinning tackle.The peak of the chum run

manage to get rid of the fly. One of them was as large and as aerial as a big tarpon.

lasts through the end of July.

On a good day a fly-fishing angler will hook a dozen or more and land most of

them. Plug trollers often average almost twice that number.The king season starts in

expect seemingly endless numbers of pink salmon; for reasons known only

mid-June and lasts through mid-July, with a few stragglers into early August.

to these fish, just a few stragglers appear during odd-numbered years. They

arrive in the lower river fired up and spoiling for a fight, averaging about

All of the salmon runs overlap, so there’s always a chance you can catch more

than one species on any given day. Massive numbers of 8- to 15-pound chrome-

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If the year is even numbered (such as 2004, 2006, 2008), you can

four pounds but occasionally topping eight.

4/20/07 6:43:19 PM

giant Salmon of goodnews river Pinks will eagerly attack a wide range of small lures

midst. I don’t know who was more surprised – me

Exotic costumes help native Alaskans tell

and flies, at times even on the surface. Fly rodders

or the guide – when one of the larger kings ate it

colorful stories, such as this one in Southeast

find these jumpers very exciting on 3- to 5-weight

without hesitation. We immediately beached the

gear.

boat on a gravel bar and I got out to deal with this

Alaska.

The Goodnews is not known as a major river

considerable challenge. After 30 minutes of careful

for sockeye salmon, but over the last few years their

maneuvering through one long run after another,

numbers have been increasing dramatically.The best

the light tippet managed to stay in one piece. I finally

fishery for these uncommonly strong salmon is just

slid a 42-pound king into shallow water where my

a few miles upstream from the camp, where they can

young guide held it long enough for a photograph

be caught with fly and light spinning tackle. They

before the release.

start showing in mid-July and continue through

Very few rivers in Alaska come even close to

Grand S l a m s And More

Who wouldn’t like to catch a Grand Slam:

matching the Goodnews in terms of the size of the

all five species in a single day? A number of anglers

silver salmon run. Silvers begin to straggle in during

achieve this outstanding accomplishment every year.

the last half of July, and the run typically goes into

The secret is choosing the right time of the season

high gear by the end of the first week of August. It

and setting out each morning with the determination

continues well past the closing of the camp in mid-

to get it done. The chances are good during the last

September. Several other rivers produce larger silvers,

two weeks of July and the first week in August, with

but rarely the numbers. They typically average 8 to

perhaps the last week of July the best of all. If you can

Clockwise: ©Robin Hood/ATIA, ©Bob Stearns (2)

early August.

12 pounds; 15 pounds or more isn’t uncommon, and the camp record stands at 22 ½ pounds.

Silver salmon are at their best when saltwater-

strong in tidewater, and it’s not uncommon for an angler to catch 30 or more in a single day. These represent the most aggressive members of the salmon family, readily striking a wide range of flies and lures that include floating flies and poppers on the surface. Tidewater silvers are noted for a strong and often long run, usually punctuated with a lot of aerial activity.

I enjoy Alaska fishing the most when I can

match my tackle to the size of the species I’m seeking, but often this leads to unexpected excitement.A few years ago I was drifting downriver casting for rainbow trout with a 5-weight rod and 10-pound-test tippet.

As we passed through a deep hole, I spotted a large number of big king salmon holding there, and as a joke I tossed my black streamer right into their

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giant Salmon of goodnews river make this happen entirely on fly tackle, you will have truly joined an exclusive group of anglers.

The Goodnews also enjoys an exceptional run

of Dolly Varden, a close relative to the Artic char.This runs starts in mid-July and lasts through September.

Unlike the salmons, these will be fished upriver rather than tidewater, where they remain to spawn in the fall, and in the process change from bright silver to an incredibly beautiful bright orange with a dark gray back and pink spots along the sides.These wonderful fish average two pounds, but have been caught as large as 12 pounds. Perhaps best of all, they readily Grab a bite, grab a boat and

take flies on the surface like trout and put up a strong,

appear to be increasing. Most average 18 to 22

sometimes above-surface fight. Many knowledgeable

inches, but some over 25 are brought in each year

fly-fishing anglers bring very light rods (2- to 4-

plus occasionally one that tops 30.The camp record

lucky, because I’ll still encounter many other species

weight) especially for this. Cooked fresh, many rate

is 35 inches (about 16 pounds), so some big rainbows

in the process.

them higher than any salmon as table fare.

lurk and they’re found in all three forks of the river.

(below) battle airborne adversaries.

Fly fishing anglers will need 9- to 11-

I encounter trophy-size grayling (20 inches or

weight rods for the big kings; all other salmon

as a major rainbow trout watershed, it does produce

better) in this river, but it requires a lot of work to

and rainbow trout can be successfully fished

many good ‘bows every season, and the numbers

find them. Still, this not a wasted day if I don’t get

with 5- to 8-weights.

Although I would not classify the Goodnews

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giant Salmon of goodnews river Ü Where to Toss the Bags

Transportation from Anchorage and

back is via charter aircraft. Flights leave every Wednesday, departing Anchorage at around 9 a.m. and returning in midafternoon. The roundtrip charter flight from Anchorage to the camp is included.

This is a true wilderness camp, but

nevertheless it offers important comforts we all want. The 10 cabins will each hold two people, and consist of steel-framed, weatherproof canvas. The cabins are built on individual platforms elevated six feet above ground and thermostatically controlled propane heat. Padded cots offer flannel sheets and thick comforters

If you plan to specifically target Dolly Varden, a

bait casting with 10- or 12-pound test works fine

for a snug sleep. The hardwood floors are

2- to 4-weight rod with floating line is perfect.

for all other species.

carpeted. A six-room bathroom facility lies

King salmon tend to hold in the deeper holes, so

next to the main lodge building; each has

you’ll want fast-sinking 500- to 600-grain lines.

small, fast outboard jet boats (one guide and two

a chemical toilet, plus a sink and shower

For all others, a multi-tip fly line with a floating,

anglers) and at least one drift boat (also one guide

with hot water.

clear, neutral density and either a slow-sinking

plus two anglers), thus weather is never a factor as

or fast-sinking tip represents the best all-around

it often can be with fly-out lodges.The drift boat is

commonly get wet by day’s end, the

solution.

used for daily float trips in the upper river; a big jet

lodge provides a unique drying room

King salmon will also be caught by trolling

boat transports the drift boat and crew up to a pre-

that features heated air-jet dryers. The

with medium-weight bait casting or spinning

selected departure point where the fishing is known

main building offers a large lounge and

gear and 20-pound-test line. Light spinning or

to be good. It’s an all-day trip, a quiet float through

Since waders, boots and coveralls

Goodnews River Lodge operates entirely via

dining room, plus a kitchen and food storage facility. Breakfasts and dinners are wonderfully prepared by a well-qualified chef. If you choose to come in for lunch,

Clockwise from bottom left: ©Bob Stearns (3)

there’s always a big pot of hot soup and lots of coffee. For take-out lunches you prepare your own sandwich or two at a large table loaded with a variety of meats, cheeses, fruits and more. Your guide will bring plenty of hot coffee, hot water and cold drinking water.

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giant Salmon of goodnews river Ü Where to Toss the Bags

The camp furnishes all the lures or

flies you need as part of the package, but if you prefer to tie your own flies or just wish to experiment, there’s a tying bench with numerous materials available for your use in the main room.

This is primarily a catch-and-release

camp, but if you wish to bring home a reasonable amount of fish, the camp has the freezer capacity and provides suitable boxes. It’s still a good idea to take along a small cooler if your trip home will take more than a few hours.

Clockwise from top: Sightings of wildlife like these caribou provide an exhilarating taste of the Alaskan experience; a sockeye salmon showing its spawning color; a guide and grinning angler admire a healthy king salmon.

The camp has a limited supply of

extra waders and fishing tackle (including fly), but it’s still a good idea to bring your

unspoiled wilderness that not only offers outstanding

downstream aboard a small, fast jet boat on a small

own. Waders are a must if you plan to

fishing, but also unusually good wildlife viewing as

tributary of the Goodnews River. Since we were

do a lot of fishing afoot, otherwise hip

well.

also headed directly into the wind, I realized this

boots will suffice if you prefer to stay in

would be a good chance to come upon wildlife.

the boat. The temperature can range

The odds are good that you will see caribou,

brown bear, otter, beaver, fox, maybe even a moose

As we rounded the many river bends, I clutched

from 30 to 80 F, but typically it’s in the

or two and abundant bird life. All of this is possible

a camera. Sure enough, right past a sharp bend we

low 40s at daybreak and the high 60s

because the upper half of the river lies within the

spotted three large caribou starting to cross the river.

by early afternoon. Layered clothing is

Togiak Wildlife Refuge.At times you’re treated to an

I snapped some great photos as they splashed past the

best, starting with comfortable thermal

exceptionally close encounter. Recently we headed

boat just a few yards away.

underwear. Rain is also a common event, so bring good foul-weather gear.

Rates per person for the weekly

(Wednesday to Wednesday) trips run $3,900 for the 7-day float and $4,850 to $6,250 for the main camp, depending upon the week you choose. For more specifics

and

updates,

contact

the

Goodnews River Lodge at 800-274-8371or visit www.epicfishing.com. You can also access Alaska’s Department of Fish & Game at: www.adfg.state.ak.us/.

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giant Salmon of goodnews river Ü Bring Your Camera

Alaska. It’s everything you’ve heard

about and more. While you can spend days dedicated solely to sightseeing, I commonly see a huge variety of wildlife and enjoy endless vistas of gorgeous scenery just in the process of fishing.

The remoteness of Goodnews River

Lodge means you won’t find crowds ©Bob Stearns

of anglers or tourists. While fishing is of course the main activity, hikers can choose from half- and full-day excursions, with terrain varying from coastal to inland along the hills. Whether fishing or just walking around, be prepared at any time to snap images of bears, caribou, moose, walrus, seals, beaver, fox and a dizzying

Fishing is either from the jet boats or by

wading. Because the Goodnews is a small, shallow river without fast currents and very few large rocks,

array of bird life – sometimes several

it’s also a very easy stream to wade.While most of the

species appearing in the area at the same

king salmon fishing takes place from a boat, all of the

time. If you have a camera that allows it,

other species are very accessible on foot.

be sure to also bring along a telephoto lens of 200 to 300 millimeters or more.

The lodge also offers one-week guided float

Flying high! A pink salmon takes to the sky between several admirers.

Other Notes of Interest about Alaska: • Area: 586,412 square miles (1,518,807 square kilometers) – 2 ½ times the size of Texas • Capital: Juneau, only accessible by air or boat • History: Initially ridiculed as a bad investment, the U.S. purchased Alaska from Russia in 1867

trips upriver. All of the necessary gear is furnished; a

for $7,200,000.

are commonly viewed. But don’t let the

large inboard jet boat transports anglers, rubber rafts

• Resources: Fur trade and whaling in earlier

fear of a bear encounter prevent visiting

and camping equipment to a pre-selected starting

here. A Goodnews River Lodge guest has

point in the lower half of the river where the fishing

Speaking of bears, grizzlies certainly

never experienced a dangerous scrape with a bear. Bears tend to avoid humans

is good at that time. The trip is six days and nights,

generations, giving way to gold prospecting, commercial salmon and crabbing industries, oil and tourism.

• Over 1.5 million tourists visit Alaska annually

although there’s also an option to float for three days

– 83 percent in the summer months.

seen. Others might stay in the area but

and spend the last three fishing days at the camp.

• Resident dividend: All permanent residents

keep an eye on us, content to share the

river if they perceive no threat. Your guide

this small river in some of Alaska’s most remote

and scamper off usually before they’re

will be armed just in case, but in all my

The angling options are almost endless on

of Alaska receive an annual dividend check of around $1,000 from the state’s oil royalties.

• Language: English officially, with 20 native

wilderness, which is precisely why I’ve been coming

Indian dialects.

here every summer for the last 27 years.

American

For additional facts visit http://www.welcometoalaska.com or http://worldatlasoftravel.com/

Reservation hosts the proud Yupiks – the

Miamian Bob Stearns earned a degree in

largest tribe in Alaska. Their influence is

meteorology and served in the Navy as a weather

years of coming here, not even one shot has been fired.

The

nearby

Native

evident in many aspects of the Alaskan culture. They maintain their colorful heritage, and many still speak the native

officer. He’s contributed over 1,500 articles for publications such as Yachting, Field & Stream,

language. As has been the case with

Outdoor Life, Sports Afield, Salt Water

generations of their ancestors, Yupiks

Sportsman and many others. Bob remains a

utilize the resources by fishing, hunting

full-time writer/photographer and also serves as a

and creating exquisite crafts.

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consultant to the fishing/boating industry. • DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 6:47:28 PM

good ne

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S^WQ TWaVW\U ] \ S Z] R U S ½ b V ` S S ` W d S ` ag a b S [ a ’ S WU V b a ^ SQ W S a ] T T W a V

Goodnews River Lodge, Alaska Booking Office: 4066 Wolf Lake Dr. • Lewiston MI 49756 Telephone: 800-274-8371 • Email: reservations@epicfishing.com www.EpicFishing.com DestinationFish.travel

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safe travels

Tips, techniques and ideas in getting from here to there in one piece.

By doug kelly

Bring on the Chopper

Register First

page; leave one copy at home where it can be

easily located and take along the other separate

You’re casting from a ledge in the middle

Just as you do with extended hunting and

of nowhere in a foreign country. The ground

fishing trips, it’s especially important to take a

from your actual passport.

buckles and down you go. Clutching a broken

few precautions before going out of the country.

• Make two photocopies and do the same with

leg and unable to even crawl, you could be

Furnish the itinerary to a friend or family member,

credit cards, airline tickets and the fishing lodge

facing a life-threatening catastrophe.

including flights, hotels and contact numbers. Go

reservation confirmation.

• Snap pictures of jewelry and other valuables.

• Remember that the laws of the country you visit apply, not the U.S. Constitution.

• Take along the contact info for the nearest U.S. Embassy (http://usembassy.state.gov/) in case you run into trouble.

It’s My Bag

You already know the drill for going to the

little office near Baggage Claim to report a lost bag. But you can lessen the chance of being one of the six out of every thousand air travelers with such a problem and getting your lost baggage back sooner by using a baggage ID system.

First, don’t depend upon the flimsy paper

tags available at airline ticket counters. Instead spend a few bucks on sturdy tags that won’t

To up the odds of survival, consider

evacuation

insurance.

cancellation

insurance

Regular

web

site (https://travelregistration.state.gov/

ibrs/) so your whereabouts are established if you

helicopter rescues or long four-wheel drive trips

have an emergency or a natural disaster occurs –

to get you to a medical facility and back home.

they cannot assist you if they don’t know where

Chartering a private air ambulance or having

you are. Other things to do:

to purchase multiple seats on a commercial

• U.S. citizens should visit www.state.gov and

airline to handle your stretcher, attendant and

read the Consular Information Sheets to see

medical equipment can reach $100,000 or more,

what you need to visit your destination. Even

not to mention the total trip interruption. To

the visa requirements may vary based on the state

review companies offering policies with varying

from which you leave, such as when traveling to

coverages, benefits and costs, do a net search for

Brazil.

“evacuation insurance.”

• Make two photocopies of your passport ID

50-100.indd 68

seldom

or

easily get torn away.

cover

68

will

health

to the U.S. State Department’s travel registration

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

The vinyl, nylon or leather tags available

from just a few bucks to $30 and more often

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safe travels provide a wide color and design

• When fishing an area with at least

selection, and the tag holder

several resorts, carry a note with

conceals your contact card so it’s

your lodge’s name and contact info

away from casual scrutiny.

if you get lost.

Tags are even available with

a pocket remote to activate an ID reader with vibration or a beep.

Second, attach something

else unusual to your bags so they’re easily differentiated on the

• If in a hotel with many floors, request a room no higher than the 6th floor. In the event of a fire, the 6th floor is the maximum height most fire trucks can reach.

•

Avoid the most burglarized

locations: ground-floor rooms that

conveyor, which also makes a theft

lead outside or to the parking lots.

attempt more conspicuous. And

• If in an elevator alone with a

third, shoot each of the bags with

suspicious person, don’t choose

your digital camera and leave them

your floor; return to the lobby and

on the camera throughout the trip

several minutes later go up with

... it’s a lot more effective showing

others.

people the look and size of your

• When leaving your room, always

missing bag.

keep the TV or radio on; during

No Room at the Top

the evening, place the “Do Not Disturb” sign on your door.

Going Neck and Neck

When choosing a fishing

lodge – even if remote – consider a number of safety and security factors: • Make sure doors and windows contain secure locks, and check them out as soon as you first arrive

Considering the value of airline

tickets, wallets and passports, keep them secured in a neck pouch. Let fashion concerns take second place when it comes to security, as theft or absentmindedness isn’t likely

to your room.

when your important documents

• An inexpensive battery-powered

ride along in front of you until

alarm can be purchased with

arrival at your destination. •

contact tongs that slide in the door or window crack; when opened, the contacts also open and an alarm goes off.

• Bring a door swedge along and use it when in the room.

• Pack a small flashlight, and keep it handy next to your bedside.

• Ask that your name and room number not be given out by anyone, and instead specify that messages be taken from callers if you’re not available.

DestinationFish.travel

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

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Chile’s Whitewater

©Larry Larsen

Float the beautiful Lake District and battle

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Wilderness

By LARRY LARSEN

rainbow trout amid snow-capped volcanoes.

A

below 50 degrees as Rene Yefio, our

platform garnered a strike, and a spunky

guide, launched a 14-foot pontoon raft. My

rainbow took to the air.The currents continued

wife, Lilliam, and I crawled aboard wearing

to push us downstream and the battle raged

insulated waders, hooded sweatshirts and winter

on. We watched the trout as it fought in the

jackets, keeping us warm as we anticipated the

glacier-blue, snow-runoff waters that varied

challenge of catching rainbow trout in the

in depth from three to eight feet. Yefio finally

whitewater of Chile’s Rio Petrohue.

netted the healthy 3 ½-pound fish. After

While waters remained tame at our

Lilliam took off her gloves and snapped a

put-in site, small rapids soon swept us into

couple of photos, she returned to admiration

more canyon-like turbulence about 200 yards

of the unique landscape that included small

downstream. Yefio guided our raft deftly

waterfalls, canyon walls and cliffs, roaring

through the less confrontational channels,

creeks and huge boulders, all surrounded by

around boulders and into position on small

the majestic specter of mountain peaks. We

pools. My fly-fishing prowess felt a bit rusty at

marveled at the crystal-clear Petrohue River

first, but a few minutes of practice casts with

that swept over a kaleidoscope of colored

the 8-foot, 6-wt. rod smoothed things out.

rocks and pebbles.

©Larry Larsen

50-100.indd 73

My tenth cast from the bow’s makeshift

steady 15-knot wind pushed temperatures

4/20/07 6:53:04 PM

Chile’s Whitewater Wilderness The scenery distracted me, but only Clockwise from top left: ©Tosh Brown, ©Larry Larsen (2), ©Chilean Tourism Production Co.

momentarily.Two casts later, my Muddler Minnow fooled another trout, but the action proved brief as the rainbow jumped and waved the white flag all too soon. I quickly engaged another slightly smaller trout, and Yefio stopped his oaring long enough to net the rainbow. He unhooked it and released the colorful fish.

With Yefio back on the oars, we swept

around a canyon bend into a long pool with a rock wall on one side and a low, rocky shoreline on the other with a backdrop of the snow-capped Osorno Volcano. He positioned our raft in slow water, and I cast to the pool. The hook-up was immediate and Lilliam didn’t seem to even notice the 5-pounder taking to the air – six times in fact.

I finally pulled the rainbow into Yefio’s net and asked my wife to turn the camera on us.

“It’s just too pretty in this direction,” she said

with a laugh, turning around to fire off a couple of quick shots of my guide and the trout.

We drifted through a succession of small

rapids and wide pools for another hour in the scenic Petrohue Valley canyon. I landed and released three more rainbows in the 5-pound range. Throughout those wondrous hours, it seemed as though I either had a missed strike, a hook-up or a fish on the line. I enjoyed watching the rainbows strike and the bent-rod action while

Admiring the intricate coloration and natural camouflage of a rainbow

floating a river just five minutes by car from our

trout amid a mountain stream makes for satisfying experiences.

lodge’s front door.

Our raft rounded one bend just before lunch

the interest of the others, I tossed my fly

sees only one or two of these deer each year in

during an insect hatch, and several trout rose to the

back to the same spot and soon hooked up

more remote areas, speculated that a puma or other

occasion. I placed my imitation in the midst of the

with another from the school.

predator had spooked the animal from the adjacent

melee, and it fooled a hungry, frenzied rainbow. In

woods. As we drew nearer, the pudu bounded away

another area, five fat rainbows came to the surface

water, huddled against the bank. The endangered

and disappeared into the shoreline trees.

to feed in a deep, fast-flowing pool.They raced for

species is indigenous to the southern Chile area

my presentation and I battled the winner for five

and is the smallest deer in the world, growing to

for the best wet fly and streamer action,

minutes before it escaped. Hoping to re-ignite

only 16 inches at the shoulder.Yefio, who normally

according to Yefio. The early bite usually

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At one point we saw a rare pudu deer in the

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

We were a little late starting that morning

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el

Clockwise from top left: ©Tosh Brown, ©Larry Larsen (2), ©Chilean Tourism Production Co.

Chile’s Whitewater Wilderness

Fly fishing a tributary in

occurs from 7 to 10 a.m. when winds are more

moderate and feeding action more prevalent

flies, and top patterns vary from the beginning of

in the 48-degree waters. Brown trout up to

the season to the end,” said Kinney. “In the spring

five pounds are a strong possibility then. Even

in November,Woolly Bugger and Black Bonehead

Petrohue River due to only catch-and-release

so, I enjoyed more than enough action during

patterns are very effective, but in the fall you may

fishing with a single, barbless hook.

our mid-morning affair on the river.

not get a bite with those flies. Too, some of the

feeder streams stop producing at a certain point

person averaging 15 to 20 fish consisting of

unless you put on a stimulator and do some dry-fly

rainbow and brown trout. On an exceptional

fishing. Heavy black-and-white Zonker flies that

day, an angler might tally 30 to 40. The

Thousands of years ago, the Petrohue River

get deep might produce best then.” Kinney added

average-size trout runs 16 to 18 inches, but

flowed from the Todos Los Santos Lake into the

that last year, midge and nymph flies outperformed

that varies from the beginning to the end

corner of Lake Llanquihue (pronounced Yan Kee

everything else with catches of rainbows 20 inches

of season and from section to section in the

Way), which lies below the beautiful Osorno

and longer.

river.

Changing Courses and Patter ns

“About 90 percent of our fishing is with wet

Lake Llanquihue.

Good-size fish is the norm on the

Most daylong float trips result in each

Volcano. An eruption of the volcano blocked the river’s entrance into the lake and diverted it. The

Fishing is an integral part of Chilean

A wood carving at each of Yan Kee Way

Petrohue now bypasses the lake and runs to and

commerce and tourism.

Lodge’s facilities greets guests.

through an estuary at the Pacific Ocean. That fortuitous route makes for more productive fishing since it tripled the length of the river, according to Paul Kinney, General Manager of Yan Kee Way Lodge and an avid angler.

“We mainly fish the Petrohue and its stream

tributaries that include the Puelo and Maullin rivers,” he said, adding the names of several other rivers farther away. “Four guides at our lodge can handle eight anglers per day. We fish fly and spinning tackle for wild trout and come fall we target Atlantic, silver and king salmon.

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Chile’s Whitewater Wilderness From top left to right: ©Chilean Tourism Production Co., ©Larry Larsen

Ü Where to Toss the Bags

Keep in mind that once in Chile you’ll

need to pay a $100 entry fee. For more details, visit the Chile Tourism Promotion Corp. web site at www.visitchile.org.

Yan Kee Way Lodge lies at the southeast

corner of Chile’s largest lake, Llanquihue, near the small village of Ensenada. Situated across a cove from the 8,730-foot Osorno Volcano, this beautiful five-star resort is a one-hour drive from Puerto Montt via a modern, paved highway through some of the Lake District’s most scenic landscape.

The lodge is snuggled in a 12-acre forest and adjacent to the Petrohue River, making it easy to access yet keeping the remote aspects that we really enjoyed.

Michael Darland owns the lodge and

handles bookings through his company, Southern Chile Expeditions, and does the

Giant fish have been taken by lodge guests,

same for a second Chile property called

with rainbows up to 20 pounds, huge brown trout,

Chile’s rivers and streams are mountain-fed, which means cold-water temperatures yearround and post-card views in all directions.

El Patagon Luxury Wilderness Lodge. Yan

silver salmon and Atlantic salmon to 30 pounds.

February, with winter June through August. The

Kee Way Lodge offers chalets and two-

The biggest king salmon thus far measured 50

fishing season in the Petrohue and surrounding

story bungalows, each with a loft and main

inches and weighed about 45 pounds, while

rivers opens the second weekend of each November

bedroom, full bathroom, a large walk-in

Kinney’s largest rainbow ate a Muddler Minnow

and closes the second weekend in May. The early

closet and living area. The décor features

and measured 29 inches.

November/December and late March/April time

textured walls and hardwood floors in the

“It weighed about 10 pounds,” he surmises.

periods are reportedly best for visiting fly anglers.

living area with leather and handcrafted

“I couldn’t get my fingers around its tail. In one

Fishing in the warmest summer months can also

furniture. The artwork is original, depicting

of the small feeder streams, a client fishing with

be excellent because water temperatures rise to

ancient

carpeted

a little simulator caught a 6-inch rainbow but

54 degrees on some stretches, which fish seem to

bedroom provides comfortable beds and

before he could land it, a 30-inch brown trout

prefer.

in the bath we found large, fluffy towels and

ate it whole.”

hieroglyphics.

The

with the highest water during the rainy season in

bathrobes – just the kind we like. Central heating takes the chill off any cool temperatures.

The Petrohue River levels fluctuate seasonally

When to Hit the Rivers

October and the lowest in April. There’s very little water level effect from the volcano snow melt

Doorways are an amazing feature, being

hand-carved from Chilean hardwoods that

Remember that in the southern hemisphere,

because the two nearby peaks retain their snow

complement the wooden beams.

seasons are reversed from North America.

year-round. While the river level might change 10

Summer months involve December, January and

to 12 feet over the course of the year primarily in

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

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el

From top left to right: ©Chilean Tourism Production Co., ©Larry Larsen

Chile’s Whitewater Wilderness Ü Where to Toss the Bags

But the carvings don’t end there;

numerous

oversized

caricature

statues

around the grounds point out the sauna, restaurant, reception and other lodge areas.

A couple of hand-carved totem poles depict lodge activities, and a 100-foot, carved tree relates the legend of the Osorno Princess who was once sacrificed to the volcano to save the lake.

Another lodge highlight is the Latitude

42-Degree restaurant. I cannot emphasize how good the food is here. Conger A guide kneels as the angler’s line whips overhead,

eel, salmon, cra, and many other items

sending the fly into the deeper portion of a lake.

become delicious dishes. The restaurant

the winter, a fluctuation of only a couple of feet

fooled by anglers tossing egg patterns. In early March,

boasts Chile’s second-largest private wine

occurs during the fishing season.The feeder streams

go with crawdad flies to pick up Atlantic salmon. At

cellar with over 300 labels from 50 Chilean

into the Todos Los Santos Lake, which is just above

this time of the year, Paul Kinney says that so many

vineyards.

the stretch of the Petrohue we fished, changes the

trout and salmon are present that you’re never certain

river levels the most.

at first what’s striking.

transportation to the fishing grounds,

We tallied no monsters when we arrived at our

professional guide and box lunches.

it’s still a big river with a high amount of water flow. If

take-out point just above Petrohue Falls National

The license, gratuities and personal

the water drops too much, you’ll find as many fish in

Park, but action was constant and of course the

stuff are on your own. You may bring

the center as along the edges.That may occur around

surroundings incredibly beautiful.

your own tackle or rent their excellent

Even when the Petrohue gets lower and skinnier,

The lodge’s fishing packages include

February when the sun is hottest

equipment that includes chest-high

and waters warmest, and salmon

waders. When we visited, the package

run the river all the way up to the

ran $389 per person per day for two or

waterfalls. At times salmon move

more anglers. Guides Sergio Aguero

past waterfalls and populate the

Oyareso, Juan Carlos Castant and Rene

Petrohue River and feeder streams

Yefio have several years of experience

above, hanging out in larger pools

on the rivers around the lodge, and

until April when they start to go

after fishing with them, I recommend

up into the streams to spawn.

them all.

Also in late March and

A lot of half- and full-day lodge

April, the river has a large king

activities are available, including even

salmon run that some anglers

photo safaris. For details on Yan Kee Way

target. Thousands of king salmon

Lodge, visit www.southernchilexp.com.

frequent the river, with many DestinationFish.travel

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

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4/20/07 6:57:02 PM

©Larry Larsen

Chile’s Whitewater Wilderness Ü Bring Your Camera

The Lake District of Southern Chile

is the country’s adventure sport capital.

The area offers an array of year-round opportunities such as hiking, rock climbing, trekking, canoeing, whitewater rafting, sailing, boating, downhill and mountain biking, and a truly spectacular Andean lake crossing.

Lilliam really enjoyed horseback

riding

through

beautiful

mountain

valleys near the lodge while I trolled by the in-water salmon hatchery on Lake Llanquihue in front of the volcano (and caught a 4-pound escapee). On

Wading and gently netting a rainbow helps deter damage caused if instead dragging it over pebbles and sharp rocks to the shoreline.

another day, I fly fished small streams

This spot represented a good place to

while she took one of the lodge’s

disembark since Lilliam and I both wanted to

kayaks for a 3-hour paddle between

forego rafting over the ensuing heavier rapids and

the lodge and the majestic Osorno

plunging falls that make up the watery labyrinth.

Volcano.

We did want to see the 40- to 80-foot falls of the

We also tried zip-lining via a secure

Lake District from safe vantage points, however.

wire through the tall forest canopy on

A series of catwalks and stone steps took us over

the side of the volcano, gliding over

boulders, crevices and narrow gorges to the edges

a rugged coastline; Andes Mountains on the eastern

two deep canyons, huge trees reaching

of the magnificent falls.

border

100 feet and ravines – all exhilarating

and fun. We also ventured by car to the

mountain cliffs, massive boulders, roaring rapids and

• Religion: Mostly Roman Catholic

Osorno Welcome Center, where a 15-

plunging falls. Several easy hiking trails lead off to

• Language: Spanish

minute chair lift quietly transported us

visit rock bars on the river below, rambling brooks

• Government: A republic

up the mountain to where snow skiers

through meadows, tiny canyon pools and other

• Currency: Chile Peso (548.3 = $1US)

were boarding another lift to the peak.

waterfalls plunging into small, foliage-surrounded

Hikers also huffed the mountain trails,

lagoons hidden in the rugged terrain.

and a zip-line strung along the treeless

upper valley provided a majestic view

minds as we explored the sights away from the main

of the lake below and Petrohue Valley

river channel. Considering the fantastic fishing and

to the east with its rivers, streams and

the natural beauty of this wondrous portion of

lakes. It’s simply an awe-inspiring view

Chile, I know I’ll be back again to the Petrohue

every direction you look.

River – and you should put it on your list of “must-

Writers, the Florida Outdoor Writers Association and the

go” fishing destinations as well.

Outdoor Writers Association of America. •

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Surrounding the nature show is a backdrop of

Other Notes of Interest about Chile: • Official Name: Republic of Chile • Area: 756,945 sq. km. (302,778 sq. mi.), nearly twice the size of California • Capital: Santiago • Terrain: Desert in north; fertile central valley; volcanoes and lakes to the south and changing to

• Population: 15.1 million

For additional facts visit http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/cis_1088.html

Visions of the Garden of Eden crossed our

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

Larry Larsen, an inductee into the Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame, has traveled to over 50 countries. He’s written 21 books and over 2,000 magazine articles for numerous outdoors and travel publications. Larsen’s media memberships include the Society of American Travel

DestinationFish.travel

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DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

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4/11/07 6:58:25 9:43:30 PM AM 4/20/07

igfa leads the way The International Game Fish Association represents the ultimate arbiter of world records and angling regulations. Besides providing input on fishery research and legislation, the IGFA possesses the world’s greatest repository for archives on literature and electronic media on fishing.

The Biggest Fish Ever Caught On Fly

L

ast spring I fished with Capt.Ralph Delph about

20 miles west of Key West near the Marquesas

sure.”

I’ve caught many sharks over the years, and

Islands.The goal involved notching another fly record

on a shark using 12-pound tippet.The 15- to 20-knot

I knew that they must get within about three feet

winds out of the east represented ideal conditions for

of the fly before they can see it. That’s exactly what

our purposes, so we eagerly approached a group of

happened in this case, and I stripped the fly once and

islands surrounded by sandy flats five to eight feet

let it sit. The lemon shark, fired up and hungry due

deep.

to the scent track, chomped the fly with considerable

Ralph knew this to be a spawning site for

MARTY AROSTEGUI

“It’s a big lemon,” said Ralph, “and a record for

pleasure.

blacktip, lemon and bull sharks, but he really wanted

to spot a tiger shark. After letting the wind drift us

sideways to us, and at that point we realized the

awhile, I remarked that we’d moved into prime

magnitude of this shark.“Oh my, Ralph, this fish might

lemon territory. Rather than change tippets, Ralph

go over 300 pounds.” He nodded, but what we didn’t

said to hang tight because bulls might be around too.

know at the time is that the fish actually weighed nearly

moved to the bow to try and gaff it in the tail.Twice

400 pounds.

Ralph attempted to gaff it but the monster wouldn’t

I spotted a gray shadow slowly moving toward

Once I set the hook, the big lemon turned

When the fish began to get weary, Ralph

us – a shark, for sure – but I couldn’t make out the

With 12-pound tippet I envisioned a battle lasting

cooperate; it even went to the stern and attacked the

species. It definitely got a whiff of the butterflied

well over an hour, so I settled in. The lemon fought

boat. Eventually Ralph succeeded in securing the

barracuda hung over the side, and it swam in a

hard, darting here, there and bolting under the boat,

gaff, and he held its tail out of the water. I put a cord

weaving pattern to detect the source.When about 45

but we stayed right on it.After about an hour it began

around the tail and we tied the shark off to a cleat.

feet from us, I made a cast and let the fly settle.

slowing down, and I could fight it closer to the boat.

With another gaff in its lower jaw, Ralph, myself and two friends from a nearby boat who had come aboard to help managed to haul it into a special livewell box.

In Key West we weighed it using a sling – 385

pounds. My 12-pound tippet over-tested slightly so it became official for 16-pound tippet.We revived it and the huge lemon shark immediately scampered to deeper water. It now stands as the largest fish of any kind landed on fly.

Support IGFA by becoming a member. To view

membership categories and benefits, visit their web site at www.IGFA.org.

Marty Arostegui, who hails from Coral Gables, Florida, also holds other tippet records on lemon sharks as well as a tiger shark. Overall he’s set nearly 200 IGFA world records. •

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METAL CRAFT

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The royal fishing waters of the Mo Chu River.

his

majesty’s

trout

Deep in the Kingdom of Bhutan swim Asia’s privileged royal fish.

By NATHAN WARD

A

sacred fortress against the jagged Himalayan peaks, the Punakha Dzong overshadows a wide r iver and a r ice-ter raced

valley where women with sharp cheekbones weave, men work the fields and children play archery. The fortress looks sur real with soar ing ivory towers, and massive beams carved into dragons and golden Buddhas. It definitely looks and feels like no other place on Earth.

This fantastic vision served as a backdrop to my concentration

on the r iver below it. Leaning far over the side of the swaying footbr idge, I looked deep into the clear waters of the Mo River at the most incredible collection of brown trout I’d ever seen: Dozens of giant brown trout, and most looked to measure a fat two feet or more. Suspended along a fast current, like r iver tigers, they hunted nymphs and errant minnows. I knew all it would took was an easy cast with a sinking copperhead and I’d have a thrashing brown on the line. It seemed too good to believe, and it was.

©Nathan Ward

Rushing across the br idge, I approached a guard at the gates,

and asked, “Can I fish here?” He looked at me incredulously, like I obviously had no clue what I’d asked. “Absolutely not, sir. If you fished here, you would have big trouble, for these are His Majesty’s trout.”

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His majesty’s trout

Above: A gentle release before this brown trout zooms off.

The King and I

Below: Known as Paro Dzong, it represents the distinctive Himalayas Buddhist architecture.

Several weeks before, my wife Andrea The Great Himalayan Range defines the

accepted a job in Bhutan, a place we always

king rules the land, princes and princesses possess

wanted to see. At our going-away party, a well-

Buddhist-inspired palaces, holy monks converge

northern spiny border of Bhutan, and from

traveled friend advised, “I’m sure you’ll love

on cliff-side monasteries, and all the while most

these giants smaller mountain chains run

Africa.” Seeing he wasn’t joking, I replied, “Uh,

common folks subsistence farm the same as a

perpendicular, north to south, like fingers spread

it’s not in Africa, it’s in the Himalayas.”

century ago.

across the country. These high peaks provide

Beyond this culture lies a landscape that

inspiration to many people, but what interested

known countries, a tiny Buddhist kingdom

suggests what the Himalayas must have been

me most were the valleys below, which flowed

between China and India. However, despite its

like in days gone by. In Bhutan, old-growth

with rivers perfect for trout.

wee size, Bhutan is truly unique – a god-like

forests still cover 70 percent of the mountains

and harbor unique and endangered species like

Bhutan, it’s an undiscovered opportunity – many

tigers, snow leopards, red pandas, yaks and the

rivers, few visitors and fewer anglers. At first my

awkward takin, an animal rumored to be half-

path to a trophy brown seemed clear, but once in

cow and half-goat. In 100 raven-flying miles, the

Bhutan I found it wasn’t going to be as easy as I

country plummets from glaciated 24,000-foot

thought because the trout belong to the king.

peaks to steamy lowlands. In between nothing

exists but corduroy rows of sparsely populated

have to wait some time,” said the pretty woman in

mountains.

charge of permits in the capital city of Thimphu.

84

50-100.indd 84

Bhutan remains one of the world’s least-

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

With less than 10 fishermen a year visiting

“A fishing license isn’t possible, sir. You’ll

Clockwise from bottom left: ©Nathan Ward, ©Tosh Brown, ©Nathan Ward (2)

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 7:06:51 PM

el

His majesty’s trout

“Okay,” I said, “How long.”

“Umm, maybe four months…and only

frustrations, and an ex-pat worker quickly chastised

here,” she said, pointing to a tiny section of

me. “You should never fish in a Buddhist country,”

river.

he lectured. However, a group of local guys

overheard and laughed at the resolute remark.

“No. I want to fish all the rivers,” I

At the bar that night I voiced my fishing

explained.

“Not possible, sir. For this you need a royal

promised. Sure enough, the next morning we

fishing permit from the king or maybe a prince.

went fishing armed with one-day permits that

Do you know a prince?” she asked brightly.

prohibited the use of firearms, dynamite or

tough, but I managed two strikes on a dark streamer.

I concluded that residents have a tougher

poison. Furthermore, the permits forbid fishing

I didn’t catch as many as my new friends using spin

time getting permits because it’s perceived

on the Descending Day of the Lord Buddha and

gear, but I felt most satisfied because Bhutan browns

that you’ll fish the rivers far more often

the Guru Rinpoche’s birthday. That sounded

are one of the planet’s most exclusive trout and their

than visitors. It therefore appeared that the

fine, as my tool of choice was a Sage rod and I

journey a chapter of Britain’s obsessions.

royal family had reserved the prime rivers

respect Buddhist philosophy and rules in foreign

for their personal fishing and infrequent

places.

From Scotland to the Land of the Thunder Dragon

travelers leaving currency in the country.

That’s not really surprising, seeing that they’ve

River, my new friends fished like men possessed.

Bhutan, far from Loch Leven, Scotland. However,

ruled Bhutan through an absolute monarchy

They peppered the river with lures, bringing in

homesick Brits decided Asia would be more sporting

for 100 years. However, I fully support this

a nice string of hefty brown trout. There’s no

with brown trout swimming about. In 1899, they

interesting country they’ve created, although I

catch-and-release ethic here, just a free-for-all, a

packed trout eggs in moss and ice, and shipped them

felt chagrined that this made my brown trout

squeeze of lime and the dinner table.

to India to stock the mountain streams.

quest difficult – but still quite do-able.

DestinationFish.travel

50-100.indd 85

“We’ll take you in the morning,” they

Buddhists or not, once on the Thimphu

Dense brush along the shore made casting

Brown trout were never meant to swim in

Above: A selection of local favored brownie flies.

Below: The author tries his luck in a small stream in central Bhutan.

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

85

4/20/07 7:17:17 PM

His majesty’s trout Ü Where to Toss the Bags

Everyone enters Bhutan as the official guest

of a Bhutanese tour company that arranges all logistics. The Royal Government of Bhutan currently charges a minimum fee of US$200 a day per person, which includes lodging, food, guides, entry fees, government tariff and internal

Bhutan Department of Tourism web site at www. tourism.gov.bt.

Our favorite hotel in Bhutan is the Gangtey

Place on the Paro River. It’s a traditional palace

©Larry Larsen (2)

transportation. For more information, visit the

converted into a hotel with beautifully furnished rooms in the central tower and remarkable views over the rice fields and fortresses of the Paro Valley.

We also can recommend the Gakling

Guest House on the Gangtey River, with wooden beams and wood stoves in each room.

Decades later, under the reign of the second king,

One man brought me a photo of a monster brown

Jigme Wangchuck, the Bhutanese brought small

from the Punakha River that easily weighed 50

trout fry overland from Kashmir in the 1930s. It was

pounds. Another told me he landed 42 trout in one

undoubtedly a perilous journey for the trout sloshing

afternoon, and I learned of a BBC program that aired

around in earthen pots. At the time, Bhutan was still

featuring an angler catching beautiful trout in all the

a roadless feudal country, so serfs carried the trout

royal waters.

to put you in one of these properties rather

pots over 100 miles of mountainous terrain from the

than chancing being assigned something too

sweating plains to the cool alpine streams.

the Buddhist teachings and release my cosmic brown

quaint.

Trout flourished here, and these Scottish

trout desires.Temporarily free of my fishing obsession,

You’d never travel to Bhutan just for the

immigrants now live in nearly all the rivers of western

Andrea and I drove east fromThimphu and the beauty

cuisine, but it will keep you going during the trip.

Bhutan, including the Paro, Thimphu, Mo, Pho,

of Bhutan became clear. Alpine valleys echoed with

Bhutanese traditionally eat ema datse with rice

Gangtey and Tang. Locals claim the best fishing is in

calls of black-necked cranes, smiling children greeted

three times a day, a dish that consists of cheese

the Paro, Mo and Tang rivers.This spelled bad luck for

us from every doorway and farmers stopped their

me because these rivers are all classified as royal waters.

work to wave from the fields. Following the single

Having no special cards, I wasn’t holding my breath

razor-thin national highway, which barely clings to

for a royal invitation. Nonetheless, I continued to seek

the mountainsides in places, we crossed the country

permission to fish royal rivers, petitioning government

on our way to a tsechu – a sacred, masked-dance

ministries and convincing influential tour operators

festival in the village of Trongsa.

that I’d spread the word to affluent potential clients.

River is the Swiss Guest House, with of course its Swiss motif and located in an apple orchard.

Here you’ll taste excellent baked breads and Bhutan’s only on-tap beer called Red Panda.

None of the above has a web site, so when

booking your tour you can ask the operator

melted over fiery chilies – not for the faint of heart. We dine instead on Indian curries, yak, red rice, steamed local vegetables and hot chilies.

Ask for the fried rice option at breakfast – very tasty. If you’re a coffee drinker, bring your own beans or brand; same with a supply of Western snacks.

86

50-100.indd 86

I did get treated to many fantastic fish stories.

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

Rather than get frustrated, I decided to follow

After passing through miles of unbroken forests

and several quaint traditional towns, we reached

From left to right: ©Nathan Ward

It’s simple but nice. Another favorite on the Tang

DestinationFish.travel

4/20/07 7:17:47 PM

el

His majesty’s trout Ü on the water

Non-residents won’t have a problem

obtaining

royal

fishing

permits.

Some

companies can secure the permits with advance notice and provide exclusive access to the best trout rivers in Bhutan. Yangphel (www.yangphel.com) is one such company, and they can design a personalized itinerary that includes not only unparalleled fishing waters but access to the more interesting cultural attractions in Bhutan too.

I used a 9-foot, 5-weight rod with 5pound leader and floating, weight-forward line. Bring floating and sinking lines and a selection of normal brown trout flies such as streamers, nymphs and dry patterns. You won’t find professional guides or fishing equipment in Bhutan as yet, but that will undoubtedly change as their tourism increases – and it will.

I recommend fishing the Punakha River Photos left to right: A small hilltop monastery overlooks a range near Chuzom;

and the beautiful Tang River in the Bumthang

women don traditional costumes for this village ceremony.

Valley for lots of browns exceeding 24 inches and averaging five to 12 pounds. The Paro

Trongsa and relaxed with a cup of tea. Andrea

Back to the River

wistfully commented, “It would be fun to wear

traditional clothes to the festival.” Minutes later, a local

a royal permit – found me shaking out my fly line. I

will still yield brown trout and, as was the case

woman whisked us away to her house and dressed

noted that the water level had dropped and showed

with me, can serve as a backup if you don’t

us in expensive, colorful silk robes.We felt like royalty

evidence of pollution.While the Royal Government

obtain a royal fishing permit. The Gangtey is a

walking through the doorways of a giant temple into

of Bhutan supports stringent environmental policies

small river but offers a lot of smaller browns.

the tsechu. Inside, masked demons leaped and twisted

to protect its forests, mountains and rivers, serious

across stone courtyards as horns bellowed and drums

problems still persist with fish poisoning, dynamiting,

split the air. Villagers in their finest clothes watched

trapping and sand mining along sections of the rivers.

fascinated, eyes following the dances that tell the story

Fortunately, most Bhutanese rivers flow clean and

of their ancestors. These rare festivals are considered

clear, and hopefully the new king, His Majesty Jigme

camping spots and a breath-taking view of the

the purest remaining ritual expression of Tibetan

Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, will take action to

towering mountain peaks.

Buddhism in the world today.

better preserve the Thimphu River.

April is the best month to visit. The water

TheThimphu River – the only one open without

River is rumored to be good as well. The Thimphu River, though not pristine in places,

For high altitude brown trout, trek two

days above Thimphu to the sacred Jimilang Tscho, a lake at 13,695 feet. Stocked by prisoners who carried fish up to the high lake as a form of community service, you’ll find nice

Nonetheless, I still saw signs of fish life. I cast

flows low and clear, and the days stay warm.

hospitality of the villagers left us happy, except that

my fly into the river in the single-minded hunt for

Several excellent festivals also take place

everywhere we traveled, trout rivers with murmuring

trout. Working dry flies and nymphs, all I caught

ripples called to me. I knew I couldn’t leave until I

at first was a Hindi music cassette. I moved a few

caught some of Bhutan’s storied browns.

miles downstream to the hole we’d fished before.

The charm of the countryside and the smiling

DestinationFish.travel

50-100.indd 87

around this time, so fish a few days and also take in the best of Bhutan’s fascinating beauty and culture.

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

87

4/20/07 7:18:29 PM

later, the descendants of those original trout still

Ü

more than just fishing

swim these rivers and offer anglers a once-in-a-

Next year will be momentous for Bhutan

lifetime fishing opportunity in one of the most

with important events taking place. First, the fifth

interesting and remote countries on Earth.

Druk Gyalpo (king) will be crowned in 2008 in a

ceremony that shouldn’t be missed. Second,

As the brownie flicked its tail in the current,

Bhutan will change from an absolute monarchy

I smiled. Content with several more catch-and-

into a democracy, with the first elections held

releases of brownies in the 10-pound range,

and the first constitution implemented. I’d

I returned to tell my Buddhist friends how I

strongly recommend booking your trip now because the word is spreading fast about the

tangled with the brown trout of Bhutan. And so

beauty of Bhutan and the fantastic brown trout

started my love affair for this country’s special

fishing, and I don’t exaggerate to say that it will

Above: This healthy brown trout attacked a nymph pattern in the Mo Chu River. Below: A dancer fends off evil spirits in the Black Crane Festival of Phobjika.

soon become very difficult to get hotel and flight reservations.

In addition to beautiful rivers, Bhutan

offers a unique look at a traditional Himalayan culture with devout Buddhist beliefs. All tours

It looked ideal – rapids relaxing into a slow, deep

ambiance, culture and fishing.

Other Notes of Interest about Bhutan:

fan. I flipped a Woolly Bugger across the current

• Official Name: Kingdom of Bhutan

monasteries and local markets. The road is

and it swung along the tail of the pool. A fish hit

• Area: 46,500 sq. km. (29,000 sq. mi.)

rough and winding, but passes through an

hard and twisted frantically on the line.

• Capital: Thimphu

impressive natural world with intact forests and

include visits to fortresses (dzongs), temples,

abundant wildlife.

We spent a morning at the Punakha

Too eager to bring in my first one, I

overplayed it and out came the hook, the fly

• Terrain: Mountainous, from the Himalayas to lower-lying foothills and some savannah.

Dzong to admire the royal fish and the fortress,

recoiling to hit me in the chest. I lengthened

• Population: 672,425

then we hiked up the Pho River and crossed

my cast and another brown struck the fly and

• Religions: Mostly Buddhist

gyrated through the pool, sides flashing silver

• Language: Mainly Dzongka

and drove 20 minutes north to find the white-

in the murky river. “Careful,” I calmed myself,

• Government: Evolving from a monarchy to a

bellied heron, one of the 50 rarest birds in the

making sure not to horse the fish this time while

world.

keeping constant pressure.

the longest suspension bridge in Bhutan.

We had our driver meet us on the other side

For local handicrafts, we greatly enjoyed

the shops in Thimphu and the weekend

constitutional monarchy • Currency: Bhutan Ngultrum (45.71 = $1US)

Coaxing the trout with a light leader,

vegetable/antique market. Prices are high

I eased it to shore and felt complete. Before

Check out the U.S. State Departments web site

and Bhutanese don’t bargain much, but

slipping the spotted brown back into the river,

on Bhutan for more info:

I meditated on the incredible journey that

http://www.state.gov/p/sca/ci/bt/.

they’ll usually drop prices about 15 percent.

Be careful, however, as we found many of the items to be cheap trinkets made in Nepal

From bottom left to top: ©Nathan Ward, ©Yeshey Dorji

His majesty’s trout

brought this fish to the Himalayas. Now, 70 years

and not locally. Keep in mind that Bhutanese

Nathan Ward, who lives in Bhutan,

antiques must have a red wax seal to be taken

grew up on a trout stream near

out of the country.

Tin Cup, Colorado, in the Rocky Mountains. He still returns from Asia at times to catch fat brown trout just five blocks from his old front porch by the Arkansas River. •

88

50-100.indd 88

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

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legendary encounters

A famed angler relives a great achievement By stu apte ©Stu Apte (3)

near Pinas Bay. The captain made a pass around the tree, and we could see three large dolphin about 15 or so feet below it, their green bodies and blue pectoral fins lit up like neon signs.

As he backed us within 40 feet of the tree, I tied

a large popping bug fly with a 2/0 hook onto my 12-pound tippet. I made a presentation, and it landed right alongside the tree. By the second strip and gurgle of the fly, I could see all three fish elevating to

I

n December 1964, I received an invitation from

strike. As happens all too often, the smallest one got

oil tycoon Ray Smith to visit a fishing lodge

there first.

As if the typical strength of a big dolphin isn’t

he built called Club de Pesca Panama (now called

Tropic Star Lodge). Ray said I’d be his guest for 10

enough with all the jumps and hard runs, my gear

days in the hope I’d consider becoming the club’s

made it all the more challenging. The smallish reel

manager. Earlier that year I’d gone back to flying

actually was made for steelhead trout and contained

as a Pan Am pilot, and the only way I’d give that

200 yards of backing plus the fly line. At times so

much line was out of the reel that I could see the

up would be if he’d gave

bottom of the spool. On top of that, the limber

me an irrevocable 10-

fiberglass rod felt very willowy, equivalent to a 10-

year contract at $25,000

weight – nothing like the backbone and strength of

per year.

modern-day rods.

While that didn’t

After about 35 minutes, I worked the raging

come about, I’ll never

bull dolphin to boat side. Racing back to the lodge,

forget what did occur

the IGFA certified scale registered 58 pounds. Even

on that visit. Fishing

so, we lamented the fact that the other two dolphin

one day with my then-

were far bigger, and I’m not exaggerating to say that

wife out of single-screw

one exceeded 70 pounds and the other was close to

diesel boat, I’d already

100.

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sailfish, making it the first

on 12-pound tippet, and still remains the longest-

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standing saltwater record on fly. Coincidentally, a

on fly. Not much later,

year later out of the same lodge and using the same

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rod with 12-pound tippet, I caught what’s today the

mahogany tree floating

second longest-standing saltwater fly record: a 136-

off the mouth of a river

pound Pacific sailfish. •

94

50-100.indd 94

DESTINATION FISH: The Travel Guide To Sport Fishing The Globe Summer 2007

The dolphin turned out to be a world record

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Garlington Landeweer....................................5

No Frills Fishing Safaris................................91

The Villas at Banyan Bay.................................3

Gause Built Boats.........................................43

Nordhavn Pacific Asian Enterprises.................2

Treasure Coast Propellers..............................81

Go Fish Australia..........................................57

Northstar........................................................6

Turneffe Island Lodge...................................90

Goodnews River Lodge................................67

Paul Mann Custom Boats.............................11

Ullberg Studios.............................................45

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BIGGER expense. There are many days it is just too

Big boats are a REALLY big responsibility and an even

Sure, â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;bigâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; is awesome for awhile, but letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s be realistic.

a few of you already own a large sportfish or yacht.

Perhaps those are some of the reasons more than

transom.

no matter how many engines there are across the

could be just a little too hairy in an outboard boat

deserved island trip due to some foul weather that

that it is frustrating to anguish over canceling a well-

only a few passengers and little gear. You canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t argue

comfort and amenities department accommodating

have shallow draft, they probably are a bit sparse in the

Small boaters arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t exempt either. While they may

literally beaching at the coolest island retreats.

detriments preclude most inshore visits much less

their running gear is completely exposed. These

because they simply require too much draft and

ocean can also accomplish shallow water navigation

Problem is few vessels of the size to handle deep blue

Bahamasâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; beaches, now that would do!

itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bow right up onto one of the many breathtaking

comfort then slip through the reef and literally put

treacherous Gulf Stream with relative safety and

A serious vessel, one that can negotiate the potentially

7OULD YOU LIKE TO OWN A HOUSE IN THE "AHAMAS (OW ABOUT AN ISLAND CONDO 7E ALL WOULD BUT AT TODAY°S REAL ESTATE PRICES THE IDEA THAT THERE IS MORE BANG FOR THE BUCK IN A QUALITY BOAT IS QUICKLY CATCHING ON

45 CruiseDiveFish

Power Boats Inc.

to survive the bumps and bruises a boat is going to see if you use the thing!

of yacht insurance, crew expenses, dwindling dockage and the result is an increasing number of large yacht

different breed, not a convertible sportfish yacht nor

need be. Perhaps as extra sleeping accommodations for

4/23/07 11:07:37 AM

Make no mistake about it. The Smith 45CDF is a

pocket yacht to date!â&#x20AC;?

Been duBBed, â&#x20AC;&#x153;the most exquIsIte

easy to operate, comfortable for an extended time if

to. Something classy yet inviting to play with, stable and

different but with the fit and finish they are accustomed

for a cross purpose boat, perhaps for a tender. Something

IntroducIng what many have already

with bad weather without feeling terrified! Just plain able

much as you would like too. Add the skyrocketing cost

owners are actually downsizing and/or at least searching

guests or crew. She should be rugged enough to deal

much trouble to get off the dock so you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t boat as

ADvERTISEMEnT

50-100.indd 97

with her level keel! The ability to efficiently make way with her bow down and her keel parallel with the sea affords the Smith 45CDF considerably better odds that any grounding, planned or otherwise, will happen

was designed for this gap in the market, built, rigged

and fully equipped to be a serious island hopper. One

with yacht like fit and finish along with a list of amenities

you’d never expect to find except in a yacht.

her reversed before incident.

to the water versatile fish-catching ability that has

degree deep-vee- she just lifts her nose and pushes

and military versions as well!

to find a truly experienced open-ocean captain who wouldn’t agree that “heavy,” does provide a more stable and comfortable ride in rough seas. Thus, in

of triple and quad outboards boats on the market

these days certainly proves you can push a big boat

with outboards, they were never designed to achieve

side. The resulting shuffle stacks to a thickness of over 1.5 inches at her keel. With the center stringer of five positioned centerline over the keel along with forty-two bulkheads below deck. Her running surface just crushes oncoming waves and has even proved to smash exposed reef into rubble and survive! Accidents happen!

inch wheels on 2.25 inch

shafts- BIG BOAT STUFF!

Installed in this sleek 10’x 45’

hull, the hardware propels

12 tons through big seas in

a fashion most boat owners

4/23/07 11:13:43 AM

of Kevlar is simply added structural insurance, and is incorporated mostly to protect against abrasion given the

high up into the 45’s hull in POWER-VENT™ pocket-

drives. This high-tech configuration accounts for her

Smith.indd 2

the case of the 23,000 lb (dry weight) Smith 45, the use

hefty 23 inch propellers mentioned are tucked away

only dream about. Those

Don Smith’s first consideration.

4/23/07 11:08:13 AM

The 45’ CruseDiveFish is not all about strength; it’s just

L u x u R y b e y O N d c O m Pa R e …

port hull material with the next layer from the starboard

480

Yanmar diesels turning 23

Twin

up, the manufacturing team interlaces each layer from the

tears or delaminating, defiantly yes! During the hull lay

Heavy, yes! Expensive, yes! More resistant to puncture,

Her bottom running surface is a solid un-cored laminate.

horsepower

The POWeR-VeNT™ a d V a N Ta g e …

fragile lower units.

be intentionally beached.

her style. Deliberately so, you would be hard-pressed

engines and concludes that while given the number

doing so, especially their

fact, the 45CDF could be considered heavy relative to

going ‘diesel.’ Smith knows the limitations of outboard

vessel’s distinct ability to operate in shallow water and to

strong material is not used for weight reduction. In

engine outboard boats for over ten years before

4/23/07 11:07:37 AM

a normal service life while

While she is largely laminated of Kevlar, this super

operated a repair facility specializing in large multi-

Don Smith, the brainchild behind the Smith 45,

massive trim tabs exploit the Smith 45CDF’s proven 22-

works not only in pleasure use but with commercial through big seas.

In rough conditions, her diesel torque, big wheels and

year track record that proves her sea worthy design

made open-fisherman so popular. She also has an 11-

The advanced warning can allow a helmsman to get

At the same time, she also has that walk around, low

some forty feet ahead of her pocketed running gear.

shallow draft. She draws a mere 29 inches and floats

a lightweight outboard-powered center-console. She

Smith.indd 1

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50-100.indd 98

shower below deck. Fine upholstery, Tempur-Pedic mattress, and complete multi-media entertainment system with flat-screen television. Full galley with

seat of a 12-cylinder luxurious import, then you’ll

love the Smith 45CDF. You “feel” her mass, power and

control the instant you step aboard or take the helm.

prevent cracks.

loaded with equipment that is easy to use and care

Smith.indd 3

robust material used to construct all of the doors to

unbreakable

is truly functional by design. This pocket yacht is

virtually

polycarbonate which simulates granite - the same

attractive vessel of understated elegance, one that

are

galley.

and functionality. He says the art is to produce an Countertops

space and even a built-in blender complete the

Don Smith comments that her value is in her versatility

built-in microwave, refrigerator, significant pantry

for. Her lavish appointments include a full head and

If you enjoy that “feel” of sliding into the driver’s

4/23/07 11:14:06 AM

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station and 42 gallon baitwell mounted in the

with her deck level marlin door, there is a cutting

The Smith 45CDF is a proven fish-catcher! Along

that double as extra storage when not full of fish.

boxes just forward of the removable transom door

the size of full size refrigerators and two in-deck

four divers. There are two forward storage boxes

with a built in Hookah dive compressor for up to

rich look. The Smith 45CDF even comes standard

mountings with no visible fasteners for that clean,

vessel’s hardware is custom made to allow strong

urethane to eliminate sun chalking. Much of the

Every Smith 45CDF is painted chine to chine in

aboard.

a quality inviting feel that makes you enjoy being

The Smith 45CDF’s standard amenities just radiate

y o u r e x p e c tat i o n s …

Guaranteed to exceed

around the vessel’s 9’ x 24’ cockpit!

cooling system with fourteen cool mist jets dispersed

cabin, there is a complete Mister’s Inc evaporative

overboard. Along with the heated and air conditioned

be channeled into the freshwater tank rather than

condensate from the 12,000 BTU A/C system may

supply. There is even a control valve so freshwater

while wasting very little of the 130 gallon freshwater

pressure washer Smith installs to keep up with the boat

uncoil a hose and pressure wash using the built-in

consuming bleaching and oiling. Simply open a door,

teak in both color and texture with none of the time-

especially when wet. It is also a ringer for natural

polyvinylchloride. An excellent nonskid surface,

not wood! The material is a form of UV stabilized

red wine proof and even high-heel proof! How? It’s

The rich plank teak deck adds style, yet is blood proof,

ADVErTISEMEnT

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equipment.” As a matter of fact, to remain within

Again, the well-thought design and functionality

4/23/07 11:14:28 AM

Smith.indd 4

of a button Roll down Izing glass forward and

screen which rises out of the console by the push

the tilt steering wheel and half-inch thick wind

the captain’s view by 8.5 inches. Let’s not overlook

is a fold down platform at the helm which raises

with fully concealed speakers - all the toys. There

weather, control of an unbelievable sound-system

inch screens, 2000 watt sonar, radar, GPS, satellite

As far as the command center is concerned, 10

power to 1,650 horsepower!

at 60 knots in kicked-up seas, he will double the

capable helmsman of a 45-foot boat that cruises

if you can convince Don Smith you could be a

station, a 35 pound/per/hour flake icemaker and

options. A custom half-tower with second control

interior choices, there are essentially only three

marketed one way, loaded! Other than paint and

vessel’s extraordinary value, the Smith 45CDF is

a reasonable delivery time and to insure the

Just three more items Smith considers “standard

T-top is right where you need it for a hand hold.

is amazing.

both sides hangs in place for quick deployment.

and exiting the vessel and are positioned so the

and stainless gimbal. Fold down steps assist entry

converts to a fighting chair with flip-up foot rest

incorporated into both. The aft post quickly

posts in this fancy rig with additional storage

center of the transom. There are two leaning

4/23/07 11:10:00 AM

www.SmithBoats.com • (954) 782-1000 1200 South Dixie Highway West Pompano Beach, FL 33060

Power Boats Inc.

pack.

this one-of-a-kind vessel is worlds apart from the

Sea Trial a Smith 45CDF and see for yourself why

ADveRTISemenT

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See the videos at www.smithboats.com • (954) 782-1000 • 1200 South Dixie Highway West • Pompano Beach, Fl 33060

Power Boats Inc.