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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

JCKONLINE.COM

NEW PEARL ORDER GIVE ’EM SHELL WITH A TROVE OF THE YEAR’S MOST LUSTROUS LOOKS

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OUR ANNUAL GUIDE TO BEJEWELING THE M A R RY I N G K I N D


®

Earth’s newest gemstone, exclusive to Le Vian®, is the Peacock Aquaprase™. This new type of chalcedony is a unique blue-green gemstone with a seafoam color and matrix that is destined to steal hearts all over the world.


Discover the R OYA L C H A I N 4 0 T H A N N I V E R SA RY G O LD C O LLE C T I O N

A unique collection of specially designed pieces that celebrate the best in gold artistry.

A N N I V E R S A R Y

800 622 0960

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royalchain.com

PROUD MEMBERS OF THE RESPONSIBLE JEWELLERY COUNCIL


P: 212.730.1888

JA NEW YORK

BOOTH#1226

info@dabakarov.com


JCK LAS VEGAS Events | Opportunities | Promotions | Special Advertising Section

JCK Show & Tell

JCK INDUSTRY FUND N OW I N I T S 2 1 S T Y E A R , T H E J C K I N D U S T R Y F U N D WAS E S TA B L I S H E D I N 1 9 9 7 T O E N H A N C E T H E I M A G E O F T H E JEWELRY INDUSTRY AND TO FOSTER DEVELOPMENT AND R E S E A R C H O F P R O G R A M S T H AT W O U L D B E N E F I T T H E I N D U S T R Y. T O D AT E , T H I S F U N D H A S A W A R D E D O V E R $ 6 M I L L I O N I N G R A N T S T O T H O S E O R G A N I Z AT I O N S O R I N D I V I D U A L S W H O H A V E C R E AT E D P R O G R A M S T H AT I M P R O V E T H E J E W E L RY I N D U S T RY ’ S I M AG E .

FOUNDED IN

1997 $240,000

JCK Industry Fund Mission T O H E L P A I D , A S S I S T A N D I M P R O V E T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y. A S G L O B A L L E A D E R S I N T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y, J C K S T R O N G LY B E L I E V E S T H AT I T I S A N E S S E N T I A L E L E M E N T A N D PA R T O F O U R C O R P O R AT E R E S P O N S I B I L I T Y T O G I V E B A C K A N D C O N T I N U E T O N U R T U R E A N I N D U S T R Y T H AT H A S G I V E N S O M U C H T O S O M A N Y.

IN GRANTS GIVEN OUT IN 2018

OVER

$6 million IN GRANTS GIVEN O U T T O DAT E

2019 Grant Applications will be accepted beginning in Fall 2018.


Congratulations to the 2018 Recipients T H I S Y E A R ’ S G R A N T S W E R E AWA R D E D I N T H E F I R S T Q U A R T E R O F 2 0 1 8 A N D T H E W I N N E R S W E R E R E C O G N I Z E D AT J C K L A S V E G A S . E AC H O F T H E S E O R G A N I Z AT I O N S R E C E I V E D G R A N T M O N I E S T O A D VA N C E S P E C I F I C P R O J E C T S T H AT W I L L B E N E F I T T H E I N D U S T R Y A S A W H O L E B Y I M P R O V I N G C O M M E R C E A N D E N H A N C I N G T H E J E W E L R Y I N D U S T R Y ’ S O V E R A L L I M AG E I N THE EYES OF THE CONSUMER.

Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC)

Women’s Jewelry Association (WJA)

“J V C i s g r a t e f u l t o t h e J C K I n d u s t r y F u n d f o r t h e i r c o n t i n u e d s u p p o r t

“Support from the JCK Industry Fund has enabled

of our mission of legal guidance, industry guardianship and member

the Women’s Jewelry Association to make

education. This year we are using funds from this grant in a focused

meaningful strides in the development of its Gender

way to support and aid in the successful integration of the “LAB” Lab

Equality Project. The funds received are being used

Grown Diamond neighborhood. JVC will achieve this by providing

to create educational resources and professional

educational opportunities for the industry to fully understand

development opportunities that will have a positive,

d i s c l o s u r e a n d a d v e r t i s i n g a r o u n d t h e s e p r o d u c t s .”

l a s t i n g i m p a c t o n t h e j e w e l r y i n d u s t r y.“

Tiffany F. Stevens, President & CEO

Bernadette S. Mack, Executive Director

Jewelers Security Alliance (JSA)

Jewelers of America (JA)

“The 2018 JCK Industry Fund grant to

“J e w e l e r s o f A m e r i c a i s g r a t e f u l t o b e a

Jewelers’ Security Alliance will support

recipient of a JCK Industry Fund grant.

C y b e r C r i m e P r e v e n t i o n Tr a i n i n g a n d

The grant enables JA to continue

I n f o r m a t i o n f o r t h e d i a m o n d , j e w e l r y, a n d

forward momentum on our consumer

w a t c h i n d u s t r y. T h i s g r a n t i s a p e r f e c t

marketing initiative through development

example of an innovative project to combat

of an industry-wide consumer-facing

a dangerous and growing crime threat that

campaign designed to benefit the

JSA would not have been able to undertake

entire industry and increase

w i t h o u t J C K I n d u s t r y F u n d s u p p o r t .”

c o n s u m e r c o n f i d e n c e .”

John Kennedy, President

David Bonaparte, President & CEO

Diamond Empowerment Fund (DEF) “With continued support from the JCK Industry Fund, our outreach with the Diamonds Do Good message has yielded over 265 million consumer impressions. Our research has confirmed that millennials are learning something new about the industry after reading positive facts and this is creating a positive o p i n i o n a b o u t t h e i n d u s t r y w h i l e i n c r e a s i n g t h e l i k e l i h o o d t h a t t h e y w i l l p u r c h a s e d i a m o n d s .”

Nancy Orem Lyman, V.P. & Executive Director OVER THE NEXT FEW MONTHS, EACH WINNER WILL BE PROFILED IN THE JCK INSIDER NEWSLETTER. VISIT JCKINSIDER.COM TO SUBSCRIBE AND LEARN HOW THE JCK INDUSTRY FUND IS MAKING A DIFFERENCE.

L E A R N M O R E : J C K L A S V E G A S. C O M / I N D U S T R Y F U N D FOLLOW @JCKEVENTS

jckinsider.com

@ j c k e v e n t s # J C K L a s Ve g a s


O C TO B E R 1 9 – 2 2 , 2 0 1 8 M I A M I B E AC H CO N V E N T I O N C E N T E R

|

M I A M I B E AC H , F L

The JIS October Show is the 2nd largest jewelry show in the Americas - only 2nd to JCK Las Vegas - and the largest, most diverse JIS Show of the year with an array of international and specialty pavilions, Matchmaking programs, and much more.

NEW FOR 2018, JIS October and the Centurion South Beach Show are partnering to conveniently co-locate both events in the Miami Beach Convention Center.

RE G I STE R TO ATTE ND OR A P P LY TO E X H I BI T AT: J ISS HOW.COM /OC TOB E R Contact JIS directly at +1 (800) 840-5612 or at jisshow@reedjewelrygroup.com

S TAY C O N N E C T E D | # J I S S H O W CO-LOCATED WITH:


KNOW THE JIS SHOW BEFORE YOU GO TAKE A PEEK INTO THE DIVERSE SHOW FLOOR LAYOUT, FEATURING 3 NEW PAVILIONS, A DEDICATED BALLROOM FOR DGI BRANDS AND A NEW CO-LOCATED SHOW FIN E JEWELR Y ITALY

AFFORDABLE FASHION

588

189

288

289

388

389

488

489

184

185

284

285

384

385

484

485

182

183

282

283

382

383

180

181

280

281

380

381

480

481

580

581

176

177

277

376

377

476

477

576

577

273

372

572

573

188

AFFORDABLE FASHION

173

483

475

375 272

373

472

AFFORDABLE FASHION

689

788

789

684

685

784

785

884

680

681

780

781

880

889

989

167

266

163

262

367

267

1089

984

881

980

1080

675 673

1081

1180

SILVER SIL ER PAVILION

677 674

1189

1288

1289

1082 981

1181

1280

1281

1077

772

773

872

873

973

1072

1273

1173

1073

SILVER SIL ER PAVILION

GALLERIA

HONG KONG

1184

882

672

1188

ER PAVILION SILVER

885

SILVER

1388

1389

1488

1489

1588

1589

1688

1689

1384

1385

1484

1485

1584

1585

1684

1685

1382

1383

1482

1483

1380

1381

1480

1481

1580

1581

1376

1377

1476

1477

1576

1577

1676

1375

1474 1473

1572

1573

1672

1372

1789

1888

1889

1988

1989

2088

2089

1785

1884

1885

1984

1985

2084

2085

1783

1882

1982

1983

2082

2083

1781

1880

1980

1981

2080

2081

1976

1977

2076

2077

2074

2075

1972

1973

2072

2073

2068

2069

SILVER ER PAVILION

1683 1681

1780

1677

1776

1881

SILVER PAVILION

1675 1673

1772

1773

1872

1873

SILVER PAVILION

969

469

168 166

473

688

583

AFFORDABLE FASHION

175 172

589

584

PLUMB CLUB

BRANDS

466

467

566

567

668

667

462

463

562

563

662

663

561

660

458

459

558

559

658

967

867

767

862

863

858

859

1066

962

1167

1067

1063

1162

1163

1059

1158

1159

1266

1566

1267

1767

1667

1567

1562

1866

1867

1966

1967

2066

2067

1863

1962

1963

2062

2063

1861

1960

1961

2060

2061

1859

1958

1959

2058

2059

1855

1954

1955

2054

2055

1952

1953

1948

1949

2048

2049

1947

2046

2047

1943

2042

2043

1939

2038

2039

1937

2036

2037

1933

2032

2033

1931

2030

2031

1929

2028

2029

2024

2025

1923

2022

2023

SILVER PAVILION

1663

1763

1659

1759

160 161 158

159

261 258

259

358

359

659

758

759

255 252

148

149

248

146

147

246

354

355

352

353

454

249

754

555 453

FINE JEWELRY

959

652

552

855 753

653

348

749 846

847

946

744 142

243

143

343

442

643

543

443

FINE JEWELRY

742

743

842

843

942

738 136

137

236

436

228

229

328

637

537

437

629

529

429

329

623

522

123

621

421

117

217

114

115

215

110

111

210

211

314

516

417

315

415

515

311

411

511

FINE JEWELRY

617

517

317

FINE JEWELRY

614

611

737

836

837

936

732

733

832

833

1558

1259

1559

1658

1858

818

819

918

716

717

816

817

916

714

715

814

815

914

712

713

812

813

912

710

711

810

811

910

707

806

702

703

802

700

701

800

1542

1543

1642

1643

1743

1842

1138

1139

1238

1439

1538

1539

1638

1639

1739

1838

1437

1536

1537

1636

1637

1736

1737

1836

1433

1532

1533

1633

1732

1429

1528

1024 923

917

911

1022

1016

1010

1029

1023

1122

1123

1222

1015

1114

1013

1112

1011

1110

PLUMB CLUB

1336

1337

1436

1332

1229

1531

1430

1328

GALLERIA

1224

1116

1237

1331 1228

1125

1017

1343

1338

GALLERIA

1124

1118

1243

GALLERIA

1129

719

606

207

1443

1131

718

1847

1242

1128

922

1846

1143

1043

1130

823

1747

1744

1142

943

1028

822

1746

1645

1545

929

723

1647

1547

1544

1232

722

1646

1546

1133

924

1849

1445

1132

825

1848

1447

1033

824

1749

1145

1032

725

1748

1147

933

724

1649

1146

932

928

1648

1144

1236

829

1549

1044

1137

830

1548

1046

1136

828

1449

2053

1845

1944

1843

1942

2045

1042

1037

729

ITALY PAVILION

1049

EQUIPMENT & TECH

1036

731

ITALY PAVILION

1048

1753

1152

937

728

ITALY PAVILION

1053

1223

1322

GALLERIA LOUNGE

1423

1522

1523

1319

1117 1216

1629

1217

1113

1313

1622

1623

1105

1102

1103

1100

1101

GALLERIA

1829

1928

1924 1722

1922

1723

1822

1823

1717

1816

1817

1917

2016

1815

1915

2014

1811

1911

2010

2011

1905

2004

2005

1901

2000

2001

GALLERIA

2019

1517

1617

1415

1515

1615

1411

1511

1611

1516

1211

1310

GALLERIA 1714

1715

1207

2017

2013

1307

1104

1828

1311

1111 1210

1107

1830 1729

1618 1417

1316

1314

1115 1214

1106

1728

1837

1832

1730

1630

1529

GALLERIA

1625

1119

HONG KONG

116

736

947

1052

HONG KONG

FINE JEWELRY

225 122

1258

1155 953

BRANDS PAVILION

129

337

FINE JEWELRY

233

133

128

237

1560 1058

954 952

852

BRANDS PAVILION PAVILIO

153

961

958

FINE JEWELRY

FINE JEWELRY 154

960

1711

1810

GALLERIA

1407

1807

906 104

105

100

101

204

205

201

304

300

301

400

405

505

401

501

605

600

601

805

704

904

1005

902

1003

801 900

JIS ENTRANCE

DGI BALLROOM ENTRANCE

901

1000

1204

1205

1200

1201

1505 1703 1502 1500

1501

1600

1601

1701

1800

1900

1001

JIS ENTRANCE

JIS ENTRANCE

SERVICE CORRIDOR

REGISTRATION

JIS LOBBY NEW! AFFORDABLE FASHION PAVILION The Affordable Fashion pavilion features stylish and trendy pieces at affordable prices, perfect for your store and your fashion-forward customers.

FIN E JEWELR Y

FINE JEWELRY PAVILION The largest pavilion at the October Show, the Fine Jewelry pavilion features the best of both unique and classic fine jewelry designs.

NEW! SILVER PAVILION The Silver Pavilion is your destination for silver jewelry. You can find anything and everything you’re looking for—in every style, size, and design.

ITALY PAVILION An expansive pavilion featuring companies and designers from Italy, showcasing their impressive collections that epitomize the fashion, culture, and aesthetics of the Italian lifestyle.

NEW! EQUIPMENT, TECH, & SERVICES (ETS) PAVILION The ETS pavilion is your destination for cutting-edge technology and the best way to bring the future of the industry to your store(s). Featuring exhibitors such as Gesswein & Co, United Precious Metals, Wexler Insurance, Kassoy, and many others.

BRANDS PAVILION The Brands Pavilion features recognizable brand names looking to expand into new stores and locations all in one convenient, easy to shop pavilion.

GALLERIA PAVILION The exclusive Galleria Pavilion offers a premium buying environment with many of the finest jewelry designs all in one place—featuring a unique and inviting lounge area.

HONG KONG PAVILION Explore the fascinating Hong Kong Jewelry Market and deal directly with major manufacturers from overseas to get the most incredible value—organized by HKJMA.

PLUMB CLUB PAVILION The Plumb Club’s unique coalition of leading manufacturers supply an immense range of products from high-end fine jewelry to fashion and silver. Visit the Plumb Club Pavilion to buy direct from prime source manufacturers assuring the best pricing, the most value, and the largest possible margins for your inventory.

DGI BALLROOM As the leading Sales and Marketing agency in the Caribbean, Alaska, and the cruise ship markets—including Central America and Mexico— DGI has built some of the biggest brands in the market place. DGI will be presenting all 20 brands they currently represent, including: LeVian, Fendi, Uno de 50, Freida Rothman, and Philip Stein. VIEW THE EXHIBITOR LIST AT JISSHOW.COM/OCTOBER - New Exhibitors Added Daily!


ADVERTISEMENT

Diamond Producers Association Is Committed to Diamonds, Diamond Communities, and Industry Leadership The world’s leading diamond mining companies have established the Diamond Producers Association (DPA) to develop diamond category marketing programs in all key markets, to support stakeholder confidence in the diamond industry, and to lead positive change in the sector. DPA members all committed to working together and with their partners to build a strong future for the diamond industry and for diamond communities, from mine to market. Thanks to its members, the DPA will invest close to $70 million in 2018 in diamond marketing in the US, China, and India. The DPA is proud to introduce its 2018 members. To find out more about the way DPA members operate their businesses sustainably, visit www.diamondproducers.com/industry/sustainability

ALROSA is one of the world’s leaders in diamond mining, accounting for about 30 percent of global rough diamond production. The company mines all of its diamonds in Russia, and its workforce is almost 40,000 people, whose average salaries are three times higher than the Russian national average. ALROSA places a premium on worker safety and compliance with environmental standards of operations. Spending about 3 percent of its revenue on social improvement programs, ALROSA is one of the industry’s biggest benefactors. eng.alrosa.ru

De Beers Group, established in 1888, is the world’s largest diamond producer by value, with mining operations in Botswana, Canada, Namibia, and South Africa. Together with its joint venture partners, De Beers Group employs more than 20,000 people across the diamond pipeline. As part of the company’s operating philosophy, the people of De Beers Group are committed to “Building Forever” by making a lasting contribution to the communities in which they live and work, and transforming natural resources into shared national wealth. debeers.com

Dominion Diamond Mines is Canada’s largest independent diamond producer with controlling interest in the Ekati Diamond Mine and a 40 percent stake in the Diavik Diamond Mine. It supplies rough diamonds to the global market and also owns the CanadaMark brand. Dominion is guided by the principles of social responsibility, environmental stewardship, and economic sustainability. It is fully committed to the health, safety, and well-being of its employees and to establishing strong, lasting, and respectful relationships with the people and communities with whom it works. ddmines.com

Gem Diamonds specializes in high-value diamonds. The company owns the Letšeng mine in Lesotho and the Ghaghoo mine in Botswana. Letšeng is renowned for its regular production of large, top color, exceptional white diamonds, making it the highest average dollar-per-carat mine in the world. Gem Diamonds believes it is its moral obligation to contribute to the sustainable socioeconomic growth of the areas in which it operates and works to create a safe and healthy working environment with minimal environmental impact. gemdiamonds.com


People, places, and products that represent the diamond industry

Lucara Diamond Corp. owns and operates the Karowe Diamond Mine located in north-central Botswana, where the second and sixth largest gem-quality diamonds were recovered: the historic 1,109 carat Lesedi La Rona and the 813 carat Constellation. In March 2018, Lucara acquired Clara Diamond Solutions Corp., a secure, digital sales platform that uses proprietary analytics and blockchain technologies to modernize the supply chain. Lucara has received awards for its targeted and sustainable community-investment initiatives and respect for the natural environment. lucaradiamond.com

Petra Diamonds, operating in Botswana, South Africa, and Tanzania, is a leading independent diamond mining group and a consistent supplier of gem-quality rough diamonds to the international market. Petra conducts all operations according to the highest ethical standards and operates only in countries that are members of the Kimberley Process. The company contributes to the socioeconomic development of its host countries and supports longterm sustainable operations to the benefit of its employees, partners, and communities. petradiamonds.com

Rio Tinto operates a global diamond exploration, mining, and sales and marketing business, with a strong and trusted profile in established and developing markets. Rio Tinto’s diamond business comprises some 1,000 people around the world. As one of the world’s largest producers of rough diamonds, its diamond portfolio offers the full range of diamonds in terms of color, size, and quality. Rio Tinto is committed to the highest possible health, safety, and environmental standards and is strongly committed to improving the long-term future of the diverse communities in which it operates. riotinto.com

RZM is the majority owner and operator of Murowa Diamond Mines in Zimbabwe and today produces approximately 1,200,000 carats. of predominantly white gem-quality diamonds. Murowa recently went through a strategic overhaul exercise that resulted in a new life-of-mine plan and a new approach to mining. RZM is dedicated to being an active member of the communities in which it operates through sustainable growth initiatives. It benefits 50,000 people through its five-year Community Action Plan and creates lasting contributions to the local economies. murowadiamonds.com


CONTENTS

72

JCKONLINE.COM

COVER

PEARL DOMINATION

Our annual ode to the lustrous gems in all their multihued glory. PHOTOGRAPHY BY GAVIN O’NEILL

FEATURES 80

THE GIFT OF FAB You’ll find something for all your style-savvy clients in our trend-bytrend seasonal shopping roundup. PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS

86

NO BUSINESS LIKE SNOW BUSINESS Prep your staff and store for the holidays with our no-fail sales tips. BY STEPHANIE VOZZA

90

GET YOUR REPAIRS IN ORDER There’s major money to be made in jewelry repairs. BY EMILI VESILIND

92

MALLS OF AMERICA: PART 3

80

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

92

In a town where face-lifts are de rigueur, Westfield Century City got a billion-dollar version. BY CHRIS WILLMAN

SPECIAL REPORT: WEDDINGS

90

100

DIGITAL ASSETS 20 stunning rings, from old-world rose cuts to spiky modern shields. BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

106

BEFORE YOU GO ON YOUR MARRY WAY… Experts share secrets to years of happy marriage-related sales. BY AMY ELLIOTT

FROM TOP: GAVIN O’NEILL; JOEL STANS; MARION BRENNER/OJB LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE; COURTESY JEWEL CRAFT. ATHENA RING WITH AKOYA PEARLS AND 0.55 CT. T.W. DIAMONDS, $2,990, CARBON & HYDE, 213-457-7377, CARBONANDHYDE.COM; 18K YELLOW GOLD RING WITH WHITE SOUTH SEA PEARL AND 0.33 CT. T.W. MOONSTONES, $2,160, ALESSANDRA DONÀ AT GIOIELLI GROUP, 914-289-0206, ALESSANDRADONA.COM; 18K GOLD EARRING WITH SOUTH SEA PEARLS AND 0.65 CT. T.W. ­DIAMONDS, $3,300 (SOLD AS PAIR), DANIEL DILMAN, 800-732-7522, DANIELDILMAN.COM; RING BY BELPEARL, EAR PIN BY KATKIM, FOUR-STRAND CHOKER BY BUTANI, AKOYA NECKLACE WITH LOCK BY MARLA AARON (SEE PAGE 75 FOR FULL CREDITS)

12


CONTENTS

49

14

DEPARTMENTS 18

JEWEL BOX

5 things rocking the industry

60

20 FROM THE EDITOR 22 STAFF PICKS 24 FROM THE PUBLISHER 30 JCK INSIDER 32 JCKONLINE 34 SOCIAL DIARY 37 NEWS GEMS

The new FTC guides

Industry shows, Sept. 22–Nov. 25, 2018

JCKONLINE.COM

56

42 GEM PRICING REPORT 44 THE CALENDAR 49 SHOP TALK INNOVATIVE RETAILER

Ursula Lyon of The Accessory Junkie 52 RETAIL THERAPY Successful holiday promotions 54 CAUSES TO CELEBRATE 56 STORE WE ADORE Marisa Perry Atelier in New York City

68

Inside Brent Neale’s magical mushroom world JCK ASKS... Richard Mille

THE VAULT PLATINUM DIAMONDS

SHOW BIZ We’re packing our bags for JIS in Miami Beach. Plus: all the details on the recent IIJS show.

119 TOOL TIME

Are chatbots the future of customer service? Plus: the Ticwatch E and more.

128 THE WAY WE WORE

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

120

The inimitable style of Park Avenue “swan” Babe Paley

54

PORTRAIT: HEIDI CURRAN; FLOWER RING: BALL & ALBANESE

59 THE LOOK 60 RED CARPET 62 DESIGNER SHOWCASE

113 114 115 117


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16

Cover Look

NeW PeArL orDer Give ’em shell with a trove of the year’s most lustrous looks.

Golden keshi South Sea pearl necklace with 18k yellow gold clasp and 0.91 ct. t.w. diamonds; $22,800; Assael; 212819-0060; assael.com

Light up your bestie who’s a mom.

Light up your bestie.

Light up your mom.

JCK080118_16_CoverLook_v2.indd 16

9/6/18 2:48 PM


17

JCKONLINE.COM

18k gold Branching Coral Kasumi pearl ring with 5.8 cts. t.w. rubies and orange and pink sapphires; $4,200; Kimberlin Brown; 917-478-8441; kimberlinbrown jewelry.com

18k yellow gold golden Baby Akoya coil bracelet; $1,800; Baggins; 213-624-2277; bagginspearls.com

MORE: 24k yellow gold white pearl necklace with 2.8 cts. t.w. diamonds; $17,000; Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace; 212-988-1511; gempalace.com • Set of two golden keshi pearl strands with 18k yellow gold shortener; $30,000; Assael • Golden pearl Talon ring in 18k gold; $2,050; Annette Ferdinandsen; info@aferdinandsen.com; annetteferdinandsen.com • Stackable gold South Sea pearl ring in 18k yellow gold; $990; Rudolf Friedmann; 212-869-5070; rudolffriedmann. com • South Sea pearl ear cuff (worn as ring) in 10k yellow gold; $425; Hirotaka; 81-36-256-9617; hiro-taka.com

18k yellow gold Kobe Collier with 5.65 cts. t.w. diamonds and South Sea Burmese golden pearls; $58,000; Belpearl; 212-7526600; belpearl.com

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY GAVIN O’NEILL Hair: SASHA NESTERCHUK/ BUMBLE AND BUMBLE, KÉRASTASE & HOT TOOLS Makeup: BOBBY BUJISIC USING MAC COSMETICS/JUDY CASEY Stylist: NADIA RATH/ FACTORY DOWNTOWN Manicurist: ROSEANN SINGLETON USING CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT Model: YADA VILLARET/ WILHELMINA Clothing: VINTAGE VERSACE

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9/6/18 2:48 PM


SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

18

the industry authority

5 THINGS ROCKING THE INDUSTRY

Jewel box 1

RETAIL

Forevermark is becoming the latest brand to go retail. In November, the De Beers diamond line will open its first U.S. brick-and-mortar store in Walnut Creek, Calif., owned and operated by Padis Jewelry, a longtime Forevermark partner. If the under-500-squarefoot store clicks, there may be more, says Forevermark US president Charles Stanley, though the company wants to keep its partner retailers running them. “We’ll see what we learn from this,” he says. “Then we’ll see where it leads.” Tribute collection diamond hoop earrings in 18k yellow gold; price on request; Forevermark; 203388-3544; forevermark.com

Seamaster Diver 300M Co-Axial Master Chronometer in 42 mm stainless steel case with rubber strap; $4,750; Omega; 201-272-1400; omegawatches.com

SHOWS

2

In July, the Swatch Group, the world’s largest watchmaker, became the latest company to say it no longer had time to exhibit at Baselworld, the preeminent, century-old watch fair. It’s the latest blow for the Swiss-based event, which in 2018 attracted just 600 exhibitors, half its 2017 number. On CNBC, Swatch CEO Nick Hayek called fair management “a little bit arrogant, a little bit snobby.” Baselworld owner MCH Group admitted the defection was a “setback”—but just how much of one was illustrated five days after Swatch’s announcement, when CEO René Kamm abruptly resigned after nearly 20 years of service. JCKONLINE.COM


19

3

AUCTIONS

Lovers of historic jewelry lost their heads over Sotheby’s announcement that it would auction pieces once owned by Marie Antoinette in Geneva on Nov. 12. In 1791, as the French Revolution raged, the queen—whose love of jewelry partly caused her overthrow (see the “affair of the diamond necklace”)—shipped some jewels to Belgium, then ruled by her sister. They were passed down through generations of European royalty before coming to Sotheby’s. The top item—a diamond necklace holding a 26 mm by 18 mm natural pearl—carries a $1.2 million estimate. That’s a whole lot of cake.

The former French queen’s pearl and diamond necklace is estimated to sell for $200,000– $300,000.

NECKLACE: COURTESY OF SOTHEBY’S

5

BRANDS

Brilliant Earth’s 2017 JCK Jewelers’ Choice Award– winning ethically sourced Ceylon sapphire ring

The Supreme Court has spoken—and most jewelers liked what it had to say. In June, the court ruled 5–4 in South Dakota v. ­Wayfair Inc. that states could require e-tailers to collect sales tax from consumers in states where sellers don’t have a physical presence. The reaction was immediate: At press time, e-tailer Blue Nile was charging sales tax in 11 states (previously it charged in only three). And Brilliant Earth put up a notice that because of the decision, its tax collection policies may soon change.

4

METALS Rock stars showing off their platinum albums may want to swap them for some golds, as the white metal is having some pretty gray days. In July, its spot price hit $810, a 14year low. At press time, it had recovered to $835, but still lagged gold by nearly $400. In fact, platinum has now trailed gold for the past two years, the longest such run since the 18th century. More surprising, platinum had also fallen $100 behind its younger sibling palladium. Analysts blamed the decline on falling sales of diesel cars, which use platinum in their catalytic converters.

Featherstone Fine Jewelry’s 2018 AGTA Spectrum–winning platinum Wonder Woman cuff with aquamarines, tanzanites, blue zircons, lavender spinels, tourmalines, and diamonds

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018


20

T

from the editor

Mastoloni’s Gifts From the Sea double-hoop earrings in 14k yellow gold with 7.5 mm–8 mm white freshwater pearls and diamonds ($1,575)

Victoria Gomelsky Editor-in-Chief vgomelsky@jckonline.com SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

I WAS A junior in college and working as a waitress at a pseudo-Mexican restaurant called Cabo Cabo Cabo in Los Angeles’ Century City Shopping Center. It was the kind of establishment that had cowhide barstools, a barrel of peanuts by the door, and tasty but inauthentic south-of-the-border cuisine (think lobster corn chowder, pineapple salsa, and coconut ceviche). When the restaurant closed a year later, no one was surprised. The location, on the north side of the mall, facing Santa Monica Boulevard, had been a revolving door of eateries. And it continued that way for years—evidence, I couldn’t help but think, of the plight facing all malls. Last year, however, the mall, renamed ­Westfield Century City in 2005, was reborn as one of the country’s most promising ­shopping centers. Read all about its billion-dollar transformation in the third installment of our Malls of America series on page 92, where ­contributor Chris Willman details how the luxury shopping destination appeals to Gen Zers, seniors, and every demographic in between. While the secret to experiential retail involves a lot more than simply selling good product, don’t underestimate the power of a spot-on selection. In our two-part Holiday Survival

Guide, we suggest a bevy of trendy styles sure to lure shoppers (“The Gift of Fab,” page 80) and follow up with a strategic selling guide designed to help you maximize sales this season (“No Business Like Snow Business,” page 86). If you’re interested in maximizing profits, don’t miss senior editor Emili ­Vesilind’s eye-opening feature on the dollars you’re leaving on the table by overlooking the massive opportunity in ­repairs (“Get Your Repairs in Order,” page 90). Given that this sales- and profits-themed issue is also our yearly ode to girls with pearls, take a moment to admire the pieces draped, swirled, stacked, and piled on our gorgeous ­cover model in “Pearl Domination” on page 72, a clear sign that minimalism is for the birds. Last but not least, you’ll find our annual wedding section, starting on page 95. We introduce you to 20 au courant ring styles curated by ­jewelry director Randi Molofsky (“Digital Assets”), then overwhelm you with sales tips culled from some of the best bridal brainiacs we know (“Before You Go on Your Marry Way…” by JCK ’s All That Glitters blogger Amy Elliott). As you gear up for what I hope is a ­positively humming holiday season, may the (sales) force be with you! JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; HAIR AND MAKEUP: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES

he year was 1994.


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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

the industry authority

OUR FAVORITE THINGS

STAFF PICKS TREAT YOURSELF What JCK magazine’s MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO is loving this month

Onyx evil eye ring with multicolored sapphires in 14k gold; $640; Eden Presley; sales@ edenpresley.com; edenpresley.com

2

Lapis and spiny oyster shell pendant in 14k gold–plated silver; $297; Bounkit; 212-2441877; bounkit.com

3

Heritage Blossom necklace with African turquoise beads, black agate and turquoise pendant, and semiprecious charms; $1,000; Lizzie Fortunato; 212-777-1008; lizziefortunato.com

4 5

Turquoise marquise cabochon hug hoops in recycled 14k gold; $250; Melissa Joy Manning; sales@ melissajoymanning. com; melissajoy manning.com

Eleguà earrings with vintage details, jade horn pendants, and multicolored zircons in 10k gold–plated brass; €254 ($295); Iosselliani; sales@ iosselliani.com; iosselliani.com

“These color-packed opaque-stone styles are super on-trend—and a bargain to boot. Nothing is more than $1,000!” —Melissa Rose Bernardo, JCK managing editor

JCKONLINE.COM

PORTRAIT: BRUCE GLIKAS

1


FROM THE PUBLISHER

H

appy fall!

Mark Smelzer Publisher msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

IT’S 88 DEGREES with 95 percent ­ umidity as I write, but there’s already a h ­(psychological, if not meteorological) hint of autumn in the air. By the time you read this, fall will be well underway. The summer went quickly, but there were some great highlights. Jewelry week in July, centered on the JA New York show at the Jacob Javits Convention Center, was punctuated, as usual, by two terrific industry events: the Women’s Jewelry Association Awards for Excellence gala and the American Gem ­Society’s Circle of Distinction dinner. The 2018 WJA event underwent a complete rethink. Rather than honor multiple women (and the occasional man) across categories, the organization replaced the lineup with the inaugural Visionary Awards, described by WJA board president Jenny Luker as four awards that will go to “women who are the first to hold their high positions of leadership in their companies, and to organizations that are providing support and mentorship to women.” This year’s recipients were Mercedes Abramo, president and CEO of Cartier North America; Caryl Capeci, president of Hearts On Fire; and Nadja Swarovski, the first female member of the executive board of Swarovski. The fourth award was given jointly to De Beers Group and U.N. Women, the United Nations entity dedicated to gender equality and the

We didn’t spot Eloise, but we had a smashing time at the Plaza nonetheless.

­empowerment of women. Additionally, the GIA’s much-beloved Bev Hori was awarded the Cindy Edelstein Mentorship Award. Needless to say, it was inspirational to see this many powerful, impactful female jewelry industry execs! Congrats to Jenny and the rest of the WJA team. The AGS awards took place the following night at the Plaza. The annual dinner continues to be a wonderful old-school, black-tie event in a super-elegant setting. In a world of “new, new, new,” it’s refreshing to enjoy a traditional evening. As always, the Circle of Distinction Awards honored amazing people in our biz. Stephen Lussier, CEO of Forevermark, received the Lifetime Achievement Award, while David A. Bouffard, vice president of corporate affairs at Signet, and Terry Chandler, president and CEO of the Diamond Council of America, each received the distinctive AGS Triple Zero Award. It is a delight to sit and listen to industry lions relive the highlights of their careers. So often, their success comes down to the people in this business. I always leave feeling lucky to be in such a supportive industry, filled with amazing talent and terrific friends. As this issue goes to the printer, I’ll be on a family vacation in Mount Desert Island, Maine. Once we’re back, I look forward to hitting the ground running. See you around! JCKONLINE.COM

PHOTOGRAPH BY NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS; GROOMING: CLAUDIA ANDREATTA/HALLEY RESOURCES; PLAZA: LITTLENY/ISTOCK/GETTY

24


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THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

Senior Vice President / Reed Jewelry Group (JCK, LUXURY, JIS) YANCY WEINRICH 203-840-5481 yweinrich@reedjewelrygroup.com I N T E R N AT I O N A L A D V E R T I S I N G BRAZIL/EUROPE/MIDDLE EAST ISRAEL CHINA/HONG KONG/INDONESIA/ MIREK KRACZKOWSKI ITZCHAK ARIKHA JAPAN/KOREA/MALAYSIA/ Ul. Skierniewicka 14 / 108, 01-230 P.O. Box 3237, Ramat Gan PHILIPPINES/SINGAPORE/ Warsaw, Poland 52131, Israel TAIWAN/VIETNAM 48-22-401-70-01, fax 48-22-401-70-16 972-3-751-2165/6, fax 972-3-575-2201 QUENTIN CHAN cell 48-600-344-881 galisaac@zahav.net.il Leading Media Ltd., Room B, 16/F mirek@jckonline.com 8 Hart Ave., Tsimshatsui, THAILAND Kowloon, Hong Kong INDIA BUSABA THAWEEPHOON 852-2366-1106, fax 852-2366-1107 KAUSHAL SHAH Reed Tradex Co. cell 852-9438-9577 1A – 1101, Lodha Bellissimo, 32nd Floor, Sathorn Nakorn Tower, quentinchan@leadingm.com Apollo Mills Compound, Off N.M. Joshi 100/68-69 N. Sathorn Rd., Silom, Marg, Mahalaxmi, Mumbai – 400011 Bangrak, Bangkok, 10500, Thailand Maharashtra, India 66-2-686-7374, fax 66-2-686-7288 91-22-2305-9305 cell 66-96-725-1525 cell 91-98-2171-5431 busaba.thaw@reedtradex.co.th kaushal@kaushals.com JCK LAS VEGAS & JCK TUCSON Event Vice President, JCK Las Vegas SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com Event Vice President, JCK Tucson KATIE DOMINESEY 203-840-5470 kdominesey@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive LARS PARKER-MYERS Renewals & Sponsorships: Clockwork, Essentials & Tech, Security, Retail Experience, Gallery, Bridge, First Look (M–Z), International–Italy 203-840-5808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ANA CROSBY Renewals & Sponsorships: Currents, Diamond Plaza, Lab-Grown Diamond, Bridal, Key Accounts, First Look (A–L) 203-840-5305 acrosby@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Director KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive DANA KARP New Companies (A–L), Security 203-840-5687 dkarp@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive ALEXANDRA WURSTER International Companies & Pavilions (New & Returning); JCK Tucson (Tucson Ballroom) 203-840-5332 awurster@reedjewelrygroup.com

Sales Executive BARBARA MURRAY New Companies (M–Z), Retail Experience 203-840-5305 bmurray@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design Center, Bridge (Renewals); JCK Tucson (Arizona Ballroom) 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager, JCK Las Vegas MONALISA DEPINA 203-840-5556 mdepina@reedjewelrygroup.com Retailer Account Manager, JCK Tucson ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager, JCK Las Vegas SAMANTHA NAGEL 203-840-5917 snagel@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager, JCK Tucson MOLLY FITZPATRICK 203-840-5379 mfitzpatrick@reedjewelrygroup.com

L U X U R Y & S W I S S W AT C H E V E N T S Event Vice President SARIN BACHMANN 203-840-5651 sbachmann@reedjewelrygroup.com

JCK080118_26_Masterhead.indd 28

Group Marketing Director AMANDA GOCHEE 203-840-5375 agochee@reedjewelrygroup.com

Retailer Account Manager ISABEL CAJULIS 203-840-5950 icajulis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Special Events and Conference Director KATE NELLIS 203-840-5675 knellis@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive JESSICA GOLDKOPF AUDET LUXURY 203-840-5955 jgoldkopf@reedjewelrygroup.com

Account Executive NINA MANCINI Design @ LUXURY 203-840-5469 nmancini@reedjewelrygroup.com Senior Marketing Manager MOLLY FITZPATRICK 203-840-5379 mfitzpatrick@reedjewelrygroup.com

9/4/18 9:33 PM


The Best Private Label Story in the Business

VIBHOR CORE DIAMOND ESSENTIALS

peter@vibhorgems.com (617) 308-1580 www.vibhorgems.com


THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY FOR 149 YEARS!

Editor-in-Chief VICTORIA GOMELSKY Creative Director PETER YATES

Managing Editor MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

Publisher MARK SMELZER 917-273-0357 msmelzer@reedjewelrygroup.com U.S. ADVERTISING SALES

EDITORIAL CT/DE/LA/MA/NJ/NY/PA Regional Manager / RANDI GEWERTZ 800-887-3905, fax 917-591-8501 rgewertz@reedjewelrygroup.com

News Director / ROB BATES rbates@jckonline.com Senior Editor / EMILI VESILIND evesilind@jckonline.com

AK/AL/AR/AZ/CA/CO/HI/IA/ID/IL/IN/KS/KY/ MD/MI/MN/MO/MS/MT/NC/ND/NE/NM/NV/ OH/OK/OR/SD/TN/TX/UT/VA/WA/WI/WV/ WY/CANADA/MEXICO Regional Manager / ROBIN LUTIN 310-474-9610, fax 917-591-8501 rlutin@reedjewelrygroup.com

Art Director / ALFREDO CEBALLOS Photography Director / FREYDA TAVIN

Star Wall Collection 888.674.8340  info@graymoorlanedesigns.com www.graymoorlanedesigns.com Graymoor Lane Designs is a division of Artistry, Ltd.

Jewelry Director / RANDI MOLOFSKY Jewelry Editor / RIMA SUQI

FL/GA/ME/NH/RI/SC/VT/PUERTO RICO Regional Manager / LARS PARKER-MYERS 203-840-5808, fax 203-840-9808 lparkermyers@reedjewelrygroup.com

Contributing Editor / BRITTANY SIMINITZ bsiminitz@jckonline.com Copy Editor / SHARON CONGDON Editorial Contributors AMANDA BALTAZAR, KAREN DYBIS, AMY ELLIOTT, KATHY HENDERSON, BOB ICKES, ARI KARPEL, VENESSA LAU, KRISTIN LUNA, MICHELE MEYER, RACHEL S. PETERS, MONA QURESHIHART, STUART ROBERTSON, NANCY SIDEWATER, WHITNEY SIELAFF, DANIEL P. SMITH, MATT VILLANO, MARTHA C. WHITE, KRISTIN YOUNG Photography Contributors BALL & ALBANESE, KEVIN CREMENS, RYANN FORD, LIAM GOODMAN, KEN GUNMAKER, ETHAN HILL, NICOLE LaMOTTE, STEPHEN LEWIS, MARK LUND, JEAN-PHILIPPE MALAVAL, GAVIN O’NEILL, CODY PICKENS, NICHOLAS A. PRAKAS, PATRIC SHAW, JOEL STANS, REBECCA STUMPF, KENJI TOMA, KENNETH WILLARDT, JAMES WOJCIK PUBLISHED FOR REED EXHIBITIONS BY

VP, Content LIZ BUFFA

Centurion Scottsdale Luxury by JCK • JCK Las Vegas • JA NY The Select Shows Centurion South Beach

C I R C U L AT I O N Director, PubWorX / WENDY EDELSTEIN Subscriptions and Customer Service 800-305-7759 (North America) 515-247-2984 (other regions) PUBWORX Operations Director MICHAEL CANDEMERES Operations Account Manager ESTRELLA BIBAS Premedia Specialist VANESSA COPPOLA Digital Imaging Specialist JAIRO CORLETO

VP, Business Development MATT CHERVIN

Marketing Director / ALEXIS AINSCOUGH Account Director / HEATHER BOHL Art Director / ANDY ROSS Production Manager / NESTOR CERVANTES Marketing & Sales Coordinator / KATIE KENNEDY One World Trade Center, Floor 28 New York, NY 10007 For content marketing inquiries, please call 212-286-7330 headline-studio.com headline studio is a division of advance local

/ randy siegel, president

Call for a catalog 888.674.3250 www.artistrylimited.com

JCK080118_26_Masterhead.indd 26

9/4/18 9:33 PM


Th e E x p e r t s i n Going Out of Business. Retiring. Moving.

“My name is Carole Ridding, and with my husband, Michael Ridding, we’ve owned Silverhorn Jewelers in Santa Barbara and Montecito for thirty-three years. We’ve been thinking of retiring or scaling down at least for some time. Over the last few years, we explored offers from people wanting to purchase our business. We gave those offers considerable attention, but we also talked to Wilkerson. Based on the strategy explained by Rick Hayes at Wilkerson, we came to the realization that it was a much cleaner arrangement and more straightforward. After considerable thought and study, we chose Wilkerson. Ashley and Greg, Wilkerson consultants, were very dedicated and no one worked harder than those two. This was a good example for everyone else. They were the first ones in and the last ones out. We did reach the goal. In fact, we exceeded the goal, which is remarkable. As you may know, we went through two natural disasters here. The largest wildfire in California history, followed by a devastating mudslide a few weeks later. This really hit our community hard.

“Absolutely, I would suggest that no matter what your plans are, they are a good company to talk with and I highly recommend them to any type of jeweler.” Carole Riding Silverhorn Jewlers Santa Barbara, CA

We had to shut down our business for some weeks due to the fires and mudslides. And even when we re-opened, we were concerned because there was mud on the streets and a lot of people had damage to their homes and were heartbroken about what happened to our little area. However, we rallied and so did our clients. We stayed open longer than we expected in the beginning to make up for that time. Everyone worked harder than ever and we passed our goal. I think this is extraordinary. This speaks well of our company, but it also speaks well of Wilkerson. They ran the remaining part of the sale after these disasters with great dignity. They showed they were flexible and we geared our advertising a little differently and took a different approach for a while with our clients, considering what everyone was going through. It shows they can work in many different situations and this one was extraordinary. Absolutely, I would suggest that no matter what your plans are, they are a good company to talk with and I highly recommend them to any type of jeweler. They have a real, almost scientific approach, a real strategy. It actually works and they know what they are talking about. My husband even wrote them a personal letter because he was so impressed with the Wilkerson team. You can achieve great financial goals through the sale and Wilkerson should be given serious consideration. If I had an occasion to work with them again, I would jump on it, and I know my husband would, too.” -Carole Ridding

Contact us today for a free consultation! Call Bobby Wilkerson, Rick Hayes or Josh Hayes at 800.631.1999. Or visit us at wilkersons.com.


QJ

QUINTESSENCE JEWELRY CORPORATION

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CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

the industry authority

INSIDER

DID YOU KNOW?

To cater to Miami Beach’s many in-line skaters, Citibank installed a roll-through ATM in 1996. JIS OCTOBER runs Oct. 19–22 in Miami Beach.

TO LEARN MORE, VISIT jisshow.com.

LUXE YOU’LL LOVE

SEE US AT JIS MIAMI OCTOBER 19-22, 2018

Quintessence Jewelry Corporation 1 Linden Place, Suite 400, Great Neck, NY 11021 (516) 439-5262 | Fax: (516) 439-5264 Order Toll Free: 1.877.405.5588 Email: sales@quintessencejewelry.com Exclusive B2B Wholesale Online Ordering at: www.QuintessenceJewelry.com

JCK080118_30_JCKInsider.indd 30

SHAY THING “We share and wear everything. My mom isn’t just my mom; she is my best friend,” says Tania Shayan (pictured above left, with her gorgeous look-alike mom, Ladan). The mother-daughter duo behind Shay Fine Jewelry—known for its super-stackable diamond and gemstone styles—dish on their design process, inspirations, and more. For the full Q&A, see jckinsider.com/design-of-the-times.

SEE WHAT’S HAPPENING ON THE SHOW FLOOR! FOLLOW @jckevents ON INSTAGRAM.

SKATER: CHUCK MASON/ALAMY

Manufacturer & Wholesaler of 925 Sterling Silver & 14K Gold Jewelry with Genuine Gemstones & Diamonds

Check out the winners of the debut LUXURY Design Awards, presented at this year’s JCK show. Among the honorees: Editor’s Choice winners Doves by Doron Paloma (top) and Sofragem (above). For the full list, visit jckinsider.com.

9/4/18 9:12 PM


CHATS, COMMENTS & MORE

yumdrops

©

Find delicious color that won’t stick to your teeth.

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ONLINE

@JCKMagazine

JCKmagazine

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@jckmagazine

INSTAGEM FAVORITE FEED OF THE MONTH Sarah Royce-Greensill (@srgjewel ) may be the jewelry and watches editor for the U.K.’s The Telegraph, but her Instagram is an enviable ode to designers all over the world—London, Paris, Cannes, Basel, Munich, Venice, New York City, and beyond. Wherever there’s sparkle, Royce-Greensill is there.

Call us for your loose colored gemstones or for our colored gemstone finished line set in 18k.

512-661-8778 #AddMoreColorToYourLife @KimberlyCollinsGems

A colored sapphire statement from Fabio Salini at Masterpiece London

Ever-so-slightly mismatched earrings by bold Munich brand Hemmerle

A superhot fire opal bracelet by New York City–based Nina Runsdorf

Here comes the sun, courtesy of London-based brand Venyx.

Having a Poptail with British designer Solange Azagury-Partridge

“Rather than developing a digital strategy, many mom-and-pops hoped the internet would go away. It didn’t…and competing against the Amazons of the world just got tougher.” — JCKonline reader Sean Dunn on “Online Sales Tax: What Happens Now?”

K I M B E R LY C O L L I N S G E M S . C O M

JCK080118_32_JCKOnLine.indd 32 AGTA_Source_Directory_2018.indd 2

Modeling Boucheron’s real flowerpetal ring at Paris Couture Week

JCKONLINE.COM

9/4/18 9:13 PM 8/22/18 2:53 PM


Social Diary

WJA GALA

2 1

WJA past prez Brandee Dallow (c.) with two Visionaries, Cartier’s Mercedes Abramo and Hearts On Fire’s Caryl Capeci

Gleaming-white smiles abounded at the Diamond Producers Association table.

4

Designers Myriam Gumuchian and Lika Behar with Gumuchian’s Jodi Goldsmith

5

Signet CEO Gina Drosos chats with WJAtv.

Ageless accessory maven Iris Apfel, who designed a 2017 Atelier Swarovski collection, introduced honoree Nadja Swarovski.

3

Mercedes Abramo, Caryl Capeci, Nadja Swarovski, and De Beers Group/U.N. Women were dubbed Visionaries at WJA’s Awards for Excellence

7

6

JA’s David J. Bonaparte, Forevermark’s Lisa Cochin, Reed Jewelry Group’s Yancy Weinrich, and JCK’s Mark Smelzer mix and mingle during cocktail hour. SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

IN PRAISE OF WOMEN

JCK sales rep Randi Gewertz and JCK Events’ Kate Nellis and Amanda Gochee

8

WJA president Jenny Luker congratulates Bev Hori, who received the Cindy Edelstein Mentorship Award. JCKONLINE.COM

BART GORIN

34


E F F YJ E W E L R Y. C O M

F I N E J E W E L R Y E S T. 1 9 7 9


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Partnering manufacturers: This is just a sampling. If there’s a manufacturer not listed that you’d like to feature, let us know and we will acquire them. 1872

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Freida Rothman

JB Star

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A.O.D. Jewelry / Nava Dee

Cordova

Gems One

Kabana

Mastoloni

Southern Gates

Alisa

DA Gold

Gottlieb & Sons

Kelly Waters

Mercury Ring

Spark Creations

Allison-Kaufman

Daniel Dilman

Gravure Commitment by

Kim International

Peter Storm

Steven Royce

Almor Design

David Gross Group

Kimberley Diamond Co.

Platini Jewelry

Stuller

ALOR

De Hago

Gumuchian

Le Vian

Precision Set

Suna

Armadani

Diabella

H.J. Namdar

Lika Behar Collection

Quality Gold

Sylvie

ArtCarved

Dilamani

H.J. Namdar Forevermark

Louis Tamis & Sons

Raymond Mazza

Thorsten Jewelry

Aspery & Guldag

Dinaro Creations

Henderson Collection

Love Pendants (Color Story)

Reko Settings

Triton Jewelry

Azul Bridal Jewelry

Don Conkey & Sons

Honora

LUCA Lorenzini featured

Rembrandt Charms

Uneek Jewelry

BA Gold

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Hulchi Belluni

Roberto Coin

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Belle Étoile

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IBGoodman

Royal Chain

Veer

Beny Sofer

Fana

Imagine Bridal

Rudolf Friedmann

Victor

Bering

Frederic Duclos

IZI Creations

Madison L

Sal Praschnik

Zeghani

Breuning

Frederick Goldman

Jabel

Mars Fine Jewelry

Scott Kay

Zina Sterling Silver

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37

the industry authority

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

NEWS JEWELERS CAN USE

NEWS GEMS

I

MANUAL DISPARITY The FTC releases new Jewelry Guides. Controversy ensues. BY ROB BATES

N JULY, THE Federal Trade Commission (FTC) released the final—if, at times, controversial—revision to its widely watched Jewelry Guides, with new dictates that could greatly affect the gold, pearl, and diamond trades. In one change long sought by the gem business, the FTC imposed new requirements for marketing “composite” gemstones. The Guides now warn manufacturers not to use unqualified gemstone names such as ruby when selling a flux-grown or composite product and to ensure any description specifies that the composite stone requires special care. “The problem with the lead glass–filled ruby products was no one was disclosing the ­special-care requirements,” says Sara Yood, senior counsel for the Jewelers Vigilance

RYAN MCVAY/PHOTODISC/GETTY

According to the FTC Guides, we have to tell you that these pearls were dyed.

JCKONLINE.COM


NEWS GEMS

THE Committee (JVC) in New York City. “People would get the stones home and they would fall apart.” Similarly, the Guides require disclosure of pearl treatments—specifically dyeing—and prohibit the use of incorrect varietal names, such as yellow emerald. A number of the changes are already proving controversial. In a move decried by some leading manufacturers, the new Guides allow under-10k gold to be described as gold if the marketing includes “an equally conspicuous, accurate karat fineness disclosure.” Likewise, alloys of less than 925 silver can be called silver if the term is preceded by disclosure of their PPT (parts per thousand) measurement. However, the agency decided against changing its guidance for platinum alloys, since consumers expect platinum to be pure. Some of the most contentious issues revolved around lab-grown diamonds, as the FTC unleashed a slew of decisions that were cheered by the man-made sector and decried by the natural. In perhaps the biggest psychological blow to the traditional industry, the FTC has removed the word natural from its definition of diamond since, it says, diamonds can also be grown in a lab. However, disclosure of lab-grown diamonds is still required, says FTC staff attorney Reenah Kim. The new Guides also allow companies to come up with new lab-grown diamond descriptors if those terms “clearly and conspicuously convey that the product is not a mined stone.” They further allow the term cultured if it’s accompanied by other, clearer descriptors. Those descriptors don’t need to immediately precede the word, as in the past. The new Guides offer “a little more wiggle room,” says JVC president and CEO Tiffany Stevens, “but there are still solid boundaries. You can’t go too far afield because if you do, you will fail the standard.” The FTC decided to revamp its Jewelry Guides in 2012. This is their first major overhaul in 22 years.

What’s Clicking on JCKonline

The top stories for July. Don’t miss a headline or blog post! Sign up for our daily newsletter at jckonline. com/newsletters/subscribe.

1

FTC Issues New Guides for Jewelry Industry: JCK looks at what the changes mean for different sectors.

2

Justin Bieber’s Jeweler on Hailey Baldwin’s Engagement Ring: New York jeweler Jack Solow dishes on the much-talkedabout oval diamond ring.

3

Jewelry Industry May Feel Effects of Trump Trade Tiff: As the trade war between the United States and China escalates, two dozen jewelryrelated items could get hit.

4

Walmart Seems to Be Cutting Back Jewelry Sales: Once the biggest jewelry seller in America, Walmart has scaled back its jewelry counters.

5

The Story of Hector Rivera, 47th Street’s “Godfather”: How a 14-yearold murder tripped up the so-called underworld boss of NYC’s Diamond District.

“What has always fascinated is how diamonds make people feel.… Expressing love and commitment is a precious and powerful moment, and it requires something powerful and precious to express that, something that is inherently a precious thing.” —Forevermark CEO Stephen Lussier, accepting his Lifetime Achievement Award at the American Gem Society’s Circle of Distinction dinner on July 17

JCKONLINE.COM

JCK080118_37_NEWSGEMS_v2.indd 38

9/5/18 1:09 PM


NEWS GEMS

Q&A

39

that they had this subsidiary responsible for lab-grown diamonds, but they said it was an institute, that they are doing research. And now they have started with [Lightbox]. So it becomes a question of trust for the industry.

3 Questions for...

EVGENY AGUREEV WE SPOKE TO Evgeny Agureev, director of sales for Russian diamond miner Alrosa, at JCK Las Vegas. Here he discusses the possible impact of sanctions against his company, the debut of De Beers’ new Lightbox subsidiary, and the possibility of an Alrosa brand. —RB

Does Alrosa expect to do more with brands? Branding is very important for us. We will launch a few marketing programs this year. We are working in a lot of different directions. One direction is cobranding programs. The other story is about traceability, to provide more information about the final product. Another story is about fancy colored diamonds. We see a big opportunity in that market.

Alrosa rough diamonds

Fine Jewelry Displays

You are reopening your polished sales office in New York City. Do you expect any impact from U.S. sanctions? We are currently working without any sanctions. If we see negative impact from sanctions, we will change our business model. We see a lot of other opportunities from other regions. What do you think of De Beers’ move into lab-grown diamonds? It’s important to explain to the customers, there are two markets: natural diamonds and synthetic diamonds. If we are talking about the real emotions, real feelings, of course that should be linked to natural stones. For Alrosa, that is a real opportunity: We are the main supplier that is focused only on the natural. The other story is linked to trust. For the last 10 years, De Beers was explaining to the market

Tel: 323.255.6900 Fax: 323.255.6934 3334 Eagle Rock Blvd. • Los Angeles 90065 info@alexvelvetusa.com

JCKONLINE.COM

JCK080118_37_NEWSGEMS_v2.indd 39

9/5/18 1:09 PM


NEWS GEMS

INDUSTRY&PEOPLE

40

Millenary HandWound with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold case and bracelet; $47,000; Audemars Piguet; 212-758-8400; audemarspiguet.com

OPENING Swiss watchmaker Audemars Piguet is opening a

boutique in East Hampton, N.Y. Day-to-day operations will be overseen by New York City retailer Material Good.

chairman of the World Federation of Diamond Bourses’ World Diamond Mark program.

previously worked for auction house PIASA and e-commerce company Expertissim.

Victoria McKay has stepped

COMPANIES

down as chief operating officer of the London Diamond Bourse after six years. Current operations manager Stacey Aylott will take over the day-to-day management of the club.

COMINGS AND GOINGS

Liquidation companies Eaton Hudson ­and SimplexDiam Inc. have created a consultancy that advises jewelers looking to turn around their businesses, sell unwanted inventory, or liquidate their stores. Michael Hill announced it will shut all 30 of the Emma & Roe

charm stores it operates in Australia and New Zealand.

Angela Karaguezian Kassabian Grace Karaguezian Terezian

Ippolita Rostagno Ippolita Rostagno has bought back a majority stake in her namesake brand, Ippolita, from private equity firm ­Castanea Partners. Rostagno will become CEO, replacing Jill Beraud, and retain her ­position as chief creative officer. Minority investors include friends and family. In addition, the company has hired Diego McDonald, the president of Ghurka, as chief financial officer; brand veteran Beth Fazio as creative director; Ghurka alum Justin Sellman as head of digital and marketing; and Ann Acierno, of David’s Bridal, as senior vice president of sales and merchandising. Mitch Horowitz, a former ad salesperson for JCK and SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

­ ational Jeweler, has been N named director of sales and marketing at Dallas-based ­jewelry supplier Roseco.

E­ xhibitions but will remain

event vice president of the JCK Tucson show. Bachmann will continue to report to Reed Jewelry Group senior vice president Yancy Weinrich.

Luxury Brand Holdings, parent company of Ross-Simons and Sidney Thomas, has appointed Evan Berkley, a former partner in Jacmel, to its board. Sarin Bachmann Sarin Bachmann has been promoted to event vice president for the JCK Las Vegas and Luxury shows. Katie Dominesey has transitioned to a new role that will focus on mergers and acquisitions at parent company Reed

Darcy Penick has been named president of Bergdorf Goodman, which is owned by Neiman Marcus. She previously served as CEO of fashion e-tailer and Amazon subsidiary Shopbop. Peter Meeus, former president of the Dubai Diamond ­Exchange, has been named

Angela Karaguezian ­Kassabian and Grace ­Karaguezian Terezian are taking over the Kirk Kara brand from their father, Kirk Karaguezian. He still plans to

work in a “mentorship role.”

The Plumb Club elected as its president Michael Lerche of Goldstar Jewellery. Lerche, the former vice president, succeeds IB Goodman Co.’s Jonathan C ­ ohen, who had served the maximum three years. A.J. ­Tosyali of Benchmark was elected the new vice president.

De Beers Group is purchasing Peregrine Diamonds, owner of the Chidliak diamond resource

located in Canada’s Nunavut Territory, for $81 million. It also announced plans to close the Voorspoed mine in South Africa.

HONORED In June, the United Jewish Appeal Federation honored designer Alex Soldier with its

Lifetime Achievement Award for philanthropy at the St. Regis Hotel in New York City.

Sotheby’s has appointed Magali Teisseire as head of its

jewelry and watch divisions for France and Monaco. She

Alex and Galina Soldier JCKONLINE.COM


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NEWS GEMS

EM

42

OFFBEAT MATERIALS FIND RETAIL SUCCESS

THIS SUMMER, SEASONAL sales were consistent with expectations as retailers in popular tourist markets reported decent traffic, while classic neighborhood stores generally experienced low traffic, as is typical of July and August. An exception was retailers offering jewelry featuring unusual materials—think nonprecious metals, resins, and even fibers—who noted particularly good business. Their audience, young professionals who are more likely to be self-purchasers, are buying a finished look; unlike more traditional buyers, they are not as concerned with the value of the component materials. In general, purchases in this category are at lower price points. While precious metals still abound, more and more designers are embracing offbeat elements to make their popular jewelry stand out. In colored stones, sapphire dominated the summer. Blue and blue-green sapphires are reportedly the strongest sellers. In the blue-green material, the teal-colored stones are most popular right now. Well-made 1 ct.–plus sizes are wholesaling from $750 to $1,600 per carat, depending on quality.

VS1

VS2

SI1

SI2

GOOD

DIAMOND: 1 ct. round brilliant G H

$6,800 $6,080

$6,320 $5,800

$5,700 $5,450

FINE

Alexandrite $4,720

1 to under 2 cts.

$2,750–$4,500

$8,000–$10,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$3,500–$6,000

$9,500–$11,500

$4,470

Rhodolite Garnet I

$5,700

$5,200

$4,950

$4,000

J

$4,900

$4,500

$4,080

$3,760

1 to under 3 cts.

$30–$70

$70–$110

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$90

$90–$150

DIAMOND: 1/2 ct. round G H

$3,570 $3,200

$3,200 $3,000

$2,700 $2,600

Rubellite Tourmaline $2,340

1 to under 3 cts.

$75–$125

$220–$250

3 to under 5 cts.

$110–$225

$275–$375

$2,270

Tsavorite Garnet I

$2,720

$2,630

$2,250

$2,150

J

$2,240

$2,125

$2,000

$2,050

H

$12,200 $10,300

$11,300 $10,000

$9,350 $8,300

$575–$850

$1,050–$1,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$1,500–$2,200

$2,500–$3,000

Tahitian Pearl Strand (knotted 14k ball clasp)

DIAMOND: 2 ct. round brilliant G

1 to under 3 cts.

$7,600

9 to under 12.5 cts.

$3,500–$4,500

$4,500–$8,000

10 to under 13.5 cts.

$4,000–$5,000

$5,000–$9,000

$7,150

Mozambique Cuprian Tourmaline I

$9,700

$7,900

$7,600

$6,725

J

$7,200

$7,300

$6,400

$6,000

2 to under 3 cts.

$1,800–$3,500

$5,000–$6,250

3 to under 5 cts.

$2,500–$3,700

$6,500–$9,000

DIAMOND: 2 ct. princess cut G

$8,960

$8,100

$7,575

Pink Sapphire $6,600

H

$8,350

$7,560

$6,800

$6,000

I

$6,475

$6,140

$6,000

$5,400

1 to under 3 cts.

$425–$715

$850–$1,100

3 to under 5 cts.

$525–$950

$1,350–$1,800

1 to under 3 cts.

$50–$75

$125–$150

3 to under 5 cts.

$60–$80

$135–$170

Blue Zircon

J

$5,350

$4,850

$4,770

$4,700

Prices shown represent actual wholesale memorandum prices paid by retail jewelers on a per-stone basis. All prices are per carat except for cultured pearls. No responsibility or liability is assumed for the consequences of the use of any information in this report, nor for errors or omissions. The terms commercial, good, fine, and extra-fine are general classifications developed and used by The GemGuide. Each represents a range of individual quality grades. When they are used in conjunction with proper grading, one can accurately pinpoint a price from within the listed range. The GemGuide is published six times a year. A one-year subscription includes market reports and colored stone and diamond prices. For more information, contact Gemworld International Inc., 2640 Patriot Blvd., Suite 240, Glenview, IL 60026; 888-GEMGUIDE or 847-657-0555, fax 847-657-0550. U.S., Canada, $205 complete per year. Elsewhere $275 complete per year.

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44

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

the industry authority

SHOWS & EVENTS

THE CALENDAR U.S.

KANSAS CITY GIFT SHOW Lenexa, Kan. kansascity giftshow.com

19–22 JIS OCTOBER

Miami Beach, Fla. jisshow.com

SELECT JEWELRY SHOW

National Harbor, Md. selectjewelry show.com

18–21

CENTURION SOUTH BEACH

Miami Beach, Fla. centurion southbeach.com

WHOLE BEAD SHOW

September Birthstone

New York City

wholebead.com

SAPPHIRE

19–20

18k gold Halo ring with 18.67 ct. star sapphire, 5.04 cts. t.w. blue sapphires, and 0.02 ct. t.w. diamonds; $95,000; Temple St. Clair; 212-219-8664; templestclair.com

CHICAGO RESPONSIBLE JEWELRY CONFERENCE Chicago

• SEPTEMBER 22–23

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Charleston, S.C. americanbead shows.com

24

PIRO SUMMIT New York City

gopiro.com/summit

24–25

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Las Vegas iwjg.com

28–30 GEMFAIRE

Boise, Idaho gemfaire.com

INDIANAPOLIS BEAD, GEM, MINERAL & JEWELRY SHOW Indianapolis

toteshows.com

29–30

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Jacksonville, Fla.

• OCTOBER 5–7

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Livonia, Mich. glwshows.com

GREENSBORO GIFT & JEWELRY SHOW

americanbead shows.com

Greensboro, N.C.

30–OCT. 1

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

gtshows.com

Minneapolis

Timonium, Md.

glwshows.com

intergem.com

PORTLAND JEWELRY SYMPOSIUM

WALNUT CREEK BEAD & DESIGN SHOW

portlandjewelry symposium.com

beadanddesign.com

Portland, Ore.

Walnut Creek, Calif.

chiresponsiblejewelry conference.com

9–10

METAL & SMITH

19–21

metalandsmith.com

Del Mar, Calif.

Los Angeles

12–13

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS West Springfield, Mass. glwshows.com

12–14

GEMFAIRE

Costa Mesa, Calif. gemfaire.com

intergem.com

gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Houston

intergem.com

NASHVILLE JEWELRY AND MERCHANDISE SHOW

Nashville, Tenn.

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Dallas

GEMFAIRE

helenbrett.com

SANTA MONICA BEAD & DESIGN SHOW

Santa Monica, Calif. beadanddesign.com

JCKONLINE.COM

20–21

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW Atlanta

americanbead shows.com

26–28

GEMFAIRE

Santa Rosa, Calif. gemfaire.com

HARRISONBURG BEAD, GEM, MINERAL & JEWELRY SHOW

Harrisonburg, Va. toteshows.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

21–23

Marion, Ohio

Lafayette, La.

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

STULLER BRIDGE CONFERENCE stuller.com

22–23

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD Brooklyn, N.Y. iwjg.com

25–28

JEWELRY, FASHION & ACCESSORIES SHOW Rosemont, Ill. jfashow.com

intergem.com

San Mateo, Calif. intergem.com

26–29

NEW YORK CITY JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW New York City nycjaws.com

28–30

JA NEW YORK FALL New York City

ja-newyork.com

• NOVEMBER 1–4

MID-SOUTH JEWELRY AND ACCESSORIES FAIR Southaven, Miss. helenbrett.com

2–4

ATLANTA CONTEMPORARY JEWELRY SHOW Atlanta

atlantacontemporary jewelryshow.com

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS Orlando, Fla.

glwshows.com

GEMFAIRE

Eugene, Ore. gemfaire.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Marlborough, Mass. intergem.com

Enjoy the view in Chicago Oct. 19–20.

CHICAGO: RON THOMAS/E+/GETTY; AMSTERDAM: SAMI SERT/ISTOCK/GETTY

14–15


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shows & events

‌THE CALENDAR

46

INTERNATIONAL 3–4

WEST COAST GEM & MINERAL SHOW

51ST ANNUAL OPAL, GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Costa Mesa, Calif. mzexpos.com

Anaheim, Calif.

October Birthstone

WHOLE BEAD SHOW

opalsociety.org

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Oakland, Calif.

OPAL

americanbead shows.com

10–11

6–7

Indo-Russian earrings with 2.76 cts. t.w. diamond and 8.84 cts. t.w. opals; price on request; Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace; 212-988-1511; gempalace.com

Navarre, Fla.

wholebead.com

Louisville, Ky.

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

GEM & LAPIDARY WHOLESALERS

americanbead shows.com

Asheville, N.C.

10–12

glwshows.com

GEMFAIRE

GATLINBURG APPAREL, ­J EWELRY AND GIFT SHOW

gemfaire.com

nortonshows.com

9–11

Gatlinburg, Tenn.

Puyallup, Wash.

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

12–13

intergem.com

Miami

INTERNATIONAL WATCH & JEWELRY GUILD

Denver

iwjg.com

JACKSONVILLE FALL BEAD & JEWELRY SHOW

15–18

Jacksonville, Fla. aksshow.com

PASADENA ARTS & CRAFTS SHOW Pasadena, Calif.

beadanddesign.com

INTERNATIONAL JEWELRY AND MERCHANDISE SHOW New Orleans

helenbrett.com

16–18

FLORIDA JEWELRY & APPAREL EXPO

SAN ANTONIO WHOLESALE JEWELRY, GIFT & ACCESSORIES SHOW

Kissimmee, Fla. gtshows.com

GEMFAIRE

San Antonio

parkertradeshow.com

Portland, Ore.

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW Seattle

intergem.com

AMERICAN BEAD SHOW

Memphis, Tenn. americanbead shows.com

23–25

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

San Mateo, Calif. intergem.com

INTERNATIONAL GEM & JEWELRY SHOW

Southfield, Mich.

22–26

VICENZAORO Vicenza, Italy

vicenzaoro.com

26–28

MAGIC JAPAN Tokyo

ubmfashion.com

26–30

24–25

Moscow

GEMFAIRE

Monterey, Calif. gemfaire.com

GET READY FOR… NYC JEWELRY WEEK SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

• • SEPTEMBER OCTOBER

intergem.com

gemfaire.com

NOV. 12–18

Ride like a local in Amsterdam Nov. 8–11.

17–18

JUNWEX MOSCOW junwex.com

28–OCT. 1

2–6

MIDEAST WATCH & JEWELLERY SHOW Sharjah, United Arab Emirates

mideastjewellery.com

4–7

JUNWEX YEREVAN Yerevan, Armenia junwex.com

11–14

ISTANBUL JEWELRY SHOW Istanbul

INTERGEM 2018

istanbuljewelry show.com

intergem.de

24–26

Idar-Oberstein, Germany

29–OCT. 1

DELHI JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR

INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY TOKYO Yokohama, Japan

25–29

THE JEWELLERY & WATCH SHOW Adnec, Abu Dhabi jws.ae/en.html

26–29

SINGAPORE JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR Singapore

singaporejewellery gemfair.com

• NOVEMBER 2–5

TAIWAN JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR Taipei City, Taiwan

taiwanjewelleryfair. com/en-us

8–11

SIERAAD INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY ART FAIR Amsterdam

sieraadartfair.com

9–11

JUNWEX PREMIUM Moscow

junwex.com

9–12

CHIBIMART Milan

chibimart.it/en

14–17

VOD DUBAI INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW Dubai, United Arab Emirates

jewelleryshow.com

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the industry authority

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

FOR THE SUCCESS OF YOUR STORE

SHOP TALK Ursula Lyon The Accessory Junkie theaccessoryjunkie.com

THE EXTRA FACTOR The Accessory Junkie’s Ursula Lyon reveals how she turned her love for shopping overseas into a thriving retail business

HEIDI CURRAN

“I

BY EMILI VESILIND

’M SOMEONE WHO likes my plate very full,” says Ursula Lyon, cofounder of The Accessory Junkie, with a laugh. “I’ve found that I’m not so happy when I’m not really busy.” That mentality helps explain why the busy mother of three kids (all under the age of 8) would start a retail business that requires her to crisscross the planet with profound regularity. But delivering jewelry and ­accessories handcrafted by artisans all over the world—rare treasures you can’t order on a laptop or an iPhone— is the concept behind The Accessory Junkie, the 2-year-old e-commerce site based in Westport, Conn. The


Shop Talk

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INNOVATIVE RETAILER Rainey resin cuff with agate, CZ, and 18k gold vermeil; Althea resin cuff with peach aventurine and black rhodium–plated brass; $380–$400

“It’s such a beautiful feeling to have a feel-good company in the world right now.” —Ursula Lyon

What made you want to start The Accessory Junkie? I love nothing more than traveling the world, and I’ve always found things in unexpected places. I started SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

buying jewelry and reaching out to designers about pieces. In the process of building the business, I kept calling [Accessory Junkie cofounder] Michelle Reeves for advice and we had the most beautiful rapport. I was talking to her on the phone one day and I was asking her who she thinks I should partner with on the business, and she said, “Me!” We’ve been working together for two years now and we have a group of five in the company, including a photographer. How does The Accessory Junkie work from the vantage point of the consumer? We create collections of jewelry and accessories for fall, winter, spring, and summer. All our pieces are one of a kind—there’s no mass production. We want women to know they’re getting things not everyone else can get. As a shopper, the day before the next collection goes up you get an email alert that says something like “The collection goes up live tomorrow at

2 p.m.” Then you get the alert that the collection is up, and our shoppers know when they see that, they need to run to the website and grab what they want right then. Our collections always sell out, usually within four to five weeks. The last collection we put up sold through 30 percent by the end of day one. And when the collection sells out, we close down the site. How do you engage your shoppers in between the collection releases? We send a series of emails after every collection that really [pivot] around storytelling. We tell the stories of where the pieces came from and who made them. Some emails will include styling tips. We’ve found that women really connect to the stories of where pieces are from and who made them. I was telling a shopper at the pop-up in Malibu about the two Brazilian women who made the earrings she was buying, and minutes later I heard her tell that story to someone else. The story became hers.

What led you to debut the pop-up in Malibu this past summer? We’d been doing this tour between collections, the Secret Suitcase Tour, where we showed up and let ­people shop. We realized that between collections people need their little shopping fix. Last year we came out to L.A. with five suitcases of accessories for an event and came home with one tiny bag. So we essentially landed the Secret Suitcase Tour in Malibu. Jewelry and accessories are so huge right now—why do you think that is? Jewelry and accessories trigger ­memories. Also, buying an earring or a necklace is such an easy and affordable way to get involved in a trend. Accessories have always been my style secret. The power of accessories is real. GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO NOMINATE OUR NEXT INNOVATIVE RETAILER

JCKONLINE.COM

HEIDI CURRAN

retailer releases four collections a year online, and in between hosts innovative live shopping events. This past summer, for example, the company erected a chic “clubhouse” in Malibu, Calif., that featured a nonstop schedule of out-of-the-box events (think yoga, manicures, and a “cookie dough adventure”). Lyon came up with the idea for The Accessory Junkie after years of telling tales about her own unique ­extras, which she’s picked up throughout her many years of traveling. “I’m the ultimate accessory junkie,” says the 35-year-old, who’s also the company’s buyer and house model. “I once went wine tasting in Tuscany and walked away with a bunch of Lucite handbags. I’m always doing things like that!”


Shop Talk

IL

PROMOTION PICTURE BY EMILI VESILIND

Q: What has been your most successful holiday promotion, and why do you think it worked so well? a: Every year we do the Let

LILLY MULLEN PRESIDENT SPRINGER’S JEWELERS Portland, Maine springersjewelers.com

It Snow promotion, where if it snows 6 inches or more on Christmas, you get your money back. Anything you buy from the company during the two weeks after Thanksgiving you would get completely refunded for if it snows at least 6 inches at any one of our locations. It front-loads holiday shopping for us—we see better sales earlier. The promotion is also a great closer for salespeople and gives them another thing to talk about with customers.

SUSAN LIGHT CO-OWNER LIGHTS JEWELERS & GEMOLOGISTS Hattiesburg, Miss. lightsjewelers.com

a: We met renowned diamond THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY JCK NEWS DAILY

A ROUNDUP OF OUR BEST STORIES DELIVERED TO YOUR INBOX EACH DAY. Breaking news, industry insights and practical advice for the jewelry trade. With all original, not aggregated content, the JCK News Daily newsletter is the industry’s true, business-to-business news source.

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JCK080118_52_SHOP_RetailTherapy.indd 52

cutter Gabriel “Gabi” Tolkowsky, and he came to our store around the holidays on a tour of cities. But the stones he was going to put up for sale didn’t show up—they were mailed to the wrong address. So we had a reception that was just beautiful, on a Friday night, but with no stones! Instead, Gabi talked to everyone and signed letters of provenance for people who had pieces of his work. The next day at 7 a.m., the stones arrived, and we had the most successful day in our history—we did more business that day than most jewelry stores do in a whole holiday season. We unintentionally whetted people’s appetites the night before, and ultimately created many more collectors of his work. DO YOU NEED RETAIL THERAPY? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

MARK VIEREGG OWNER WALTERS & HOGSETT JEWELERS Boulder, Colo. waltersandhogsett.com

a: We host our Charish event—named for “charity” and “sharing.” We ask five local ladies of influence in our community to invite 15 of their friends. We send those friends custom, private invitations. We train the 15 hostesses so they can sell their invited friends at the event, along with help from a staff partner. We also throw in a bit of fun competition by awarding the Charish lady who sells the most a one-of-a-kind necklace. The first time we had the event, we sold more jewelry than we had at any other holiday party in 30 years.

MARK LOREN OWNER MARK LOREN DESIGNS Fort Myers, Fla. markloren designs.com

a: We host a preferredcustomer party showcasing two to three top collections in mid-November. The invitation is mailed with a tiered savings offer to encourage higher-ticket purchases. We do a second mailing to the rest of our database and let all customers and social media followers know we host three Designer Days—events with a personal appearance and a trunk show—on the first three Saturdays of December. We’ve seen a rise in customers purchasing for themselves on those days. JCKONLINE.COM

9/5/18 10:22 AM


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SHOP TALK

CAUSES TO CELEBRATE

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Sustainable jewelry consultant, Ethical Metalsmiths cofounder, and WJA’s 2018 Carelle grant winner Christina Miller at Colombia’s Gualconda mine

“We’re focusing on grant requests that will drive consumers to the retail counter.”

GIVE IT UP

—Yancy Weinrich

After two decades of quietly giving back to the trade, the JCK Industry Fund is going public with a renewed commitment to funding projects that benefit all jewelers

A jewelry designer and disabled veteran of the U.S. Air Force, Lisa West won WJA’s 2018 veteran grant. SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

S

INCE ITS INCEPTION in 1997, the JCK Industry Fund has awarded more than $6 million in grants to organizations working to promote the jewelry industry. Founded at the behest of members of the Plumb Club, who urged the JCK show’s then-leadership to give back to the trade, the fund has largely operated without fanfare. This year, things are changing. Not only has JCK committed to promoting the fund, thanks in part to a donation campaign that asks every JCK exhibitor to contribute $100 toward the 2019 grants, but also the show has finetuned the fund’s mission statement to make clear that grants will be awarded to proposals aimed at benefiting the entire industry over time. “We’re focusing on grant requests that will drive consumers to the retail

Julie Martin received WJA’s 2018 Cindy Edelstein Jewelry Design Scholarship.

counter,” says Yancy Weinrich, senior vice president of Reed Jewelry Group, organizer of the JCK and LUXURY shows (and parent of JCK magazine). Weinrich says the five recipients of the 2018 grants, which total $240,000 and were awarded in the first quarter of this year, are excellent examples of the type of work the Industry Fund is seeking to promote. “For instance, we funded Jewelers of America, which has done research around creating a generic jewelry advertising campaign,” Weinrich says. “We’re also looking at things that help consumer confidence, such as the Diamond Empowerment Fund’s ‘Diamonds Do Good’ message.” In addition to JA and DEF, the 2018 grant recipients include the Women’s Jewelry Association, whose Gender Equality Project is dedicated

to helping store owners be better prepared to tackle issues of sexual ­harassment and gender bias in the workplace; the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, in support of its LabGrown Diamond Legal Education Program; and Jewelers’ Security Alliance, whose Cybercrime Prevention Training and Information project is helping ­jewelers fight digital thieves. “There’s nobody [else] out there who helps promote the industry at large to the consumer,” says Michael Lerche, president and chief operating officer of Goldstar Jewellery in New York City and one of seven people who sit on the JCK Industry Fund’s board. “Now we’re going a step further, targeting other exhibitors and retailers to help the future of the business as a whole and get as many people as possible to recognize it’s a joint effort.” JCKONLINE.COM

MILLER: ARM-FAIRMINED

BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY


Positively

Pink

Pink Is In 833 Market Street, 10th Floor • San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: (415) 543-1580 • 800-864-0767 • Fax: (415) 398-3699 www.herco.com • Email: info@herco.com


SHOP TALK

STORE WE ADORE

56

636 HUDSON ST. NEW YORK CITY

MARISA PERRY ATELIER

On a lovely corner in Manhattan’s West Village, the staff at Marisa Perry Atelier greets shoppers with a glass of bubbly and a heart-stopping array of diamond engagement rings and wedding bands. BY KATHY HENDERSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY BALL & ALBANESE

M

ARISA PERRY, a vivacious brunette, is the face of the business. Her husband, Douglas Elliott, dressed in black from head to toe, designs rings with an emphasis on the finest micro-pavé settings. Together, they offer a product and level of service that attract a high-end clientele fueled by word of mouth. The secret, says Elliott, is simple: “Every day I ask myself, How can I make the most beautiful engagement rings and wedding bands in the world?”

DYNAMIC DUO Crystal chandeliers, sheer curtains, and a photo mural of a model dripping in diamonds create an ethereal vibe at Marisa Perry Atelier, but the stars of the show are the owners and their sweet dog, Max. Perry and Elliott form the yin and yang of their business, bantering in a manner that attracted an offer for a reality TV series (they declined). They met at a bar in 2001, when Perry worked in marketing and Elliott was designing a namesake line for Neiman Marcus. At the end of their SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

”I like a responsibly sourced diamond,” says Douglas Elliott. “I want my customers to know where their diamond comes from.”


Says Perry: “A lot of our customers are finance guys coming in after the gym with a cup of coffee in one hand and a dog in the other.”

“There’s nothing stuffy about our store. The guys are already scared about asking a woman to marry them.” —Marisa Perry

first date, he gave her an eight-strand pearl necklace and two rings, declaring, “This doesn’t obligate you to see me again.” She countered, “If I was going to do something with you, I wouldn’t do it for pearls.” Chuckling, he says, “I knew I had found my muse.”

WITH THIS RING…

“We’re making a product for people who are in love. It’s wonderful,” says Elliott (with wife/ partner Marisa Perry).

JCKONLINE.COM

When grooms-to-be enter the store, Perry or one of two trusted sales associates invites them to peruse a vertical display case of diamond rings in varied shapes and styles. “We put people at ease,” she says. “Millennials want to interact with someone side by side, like at the Apple store, before sitting down to look at loose diamonds face-to-face.” Behind the main gallery, a small sales desk offers greater privacy; another space displays Forevermark diamonds. Rather than asking a client’s budget, Perry zeroes in on the size of the center stone, showing what’s possible for, say, $25,000, which is an average sale. It helps that Elliott offers hundreds of settings, many of them available for preview on the store’s newly redesigned website and Instagram account. “We’ve

been to the Fifth Avenue jewelers,” Perry says dismissively, “and we have more options than all of them combined.”

BIGGER AND BETTER Driven by trends in fashion jewelry, Marisa Perry clients prefer a large center diamond—2 carats, says Perry, is their “basic stone”—in a delicate setting, which plays to ­Elliott’s strength in micro-pavé. He specializes in ­diamond-encrusted wedding bands as thin as 1 mm, designed to fit flush beneath the engagement ring. His micro-pavé stones are set by hand under a microscope in individually drilled holes, with prongs that are virtually invisible from the side. “The New York woman doesn’t want what other people have,” Elliott says. “We’re constantly changing, constantly listening to our customers.” Perry, he adds, can make even the most demanding client happy. “We stay in touch,” she says with a smile, “and soon they’re back with a baby stroller buying a push present.”

DO YOU ADORE YOUR STORE? GO TO jckonline.com/be-part-of-jck-mag TO TELL US MORE.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018


The Essence of Timeless Design 18 Karat - Platinum - Fine Gems

Winner/Finalist of the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards for 10 consecutive years since 2009

Showroom San Francisco (415) 621-8880 jyescorp@gmail.com www.jyescorp.com


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the industry authority

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

STAY AHEAD OF THE JEWELRY TRENDS

THE LOOK

2

1

3

4 SIGN OF THE TIMES 1/ Matahari earrings with opals and diamonds in 18k white gold; $6,256; Venyx; 44-203-096-1390; venyxworld.com

2/ Figa necklace in 14k rose gold with resin and diamonds; $5,250; Jacquie Aiche; 310-550-7529; jacquieaiche.com

5

3/ Mismatched engraved earrings in 18k yellow gold; $3,045; ARK; 646745-6831; arkfinejewelry.com

JCKONLINE.COM

A jewel is worth a thousand words when emblazoned, encrusted, or engraved with symbolic meaning BY RANDI MOLOFSKY

4/ Peace ring with agate and green garnet in 18k yellow gold; $3,380; Borgioni; 310-849-9050; borgionis.com

5/ Necklace in 14k rose gold with diamonds; $6,795; Kismet by Milka; tamy@kismetbymilka.com; kismetbymilka.com


the look

RED CARPET

60

GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Pantone’s Color of the Year, Ultra Violet, is ultrahot on the red carpet BY MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO

DUA LIPA

You may recall that in the January/ February 2018 issue of JCK we told you malachite would be one of the year’s five hottest gemstones. Clearly, Dua Lipa got the memo. At the Billboard Music Awards, she wore a bold Bulgari Serpenti malachite necklace with her ’80s-style metallic lamé Alexandre Vauthier dress in the year’s hottest hue. Lipa continued her purple reign on stage, where she donned a purple one-piece to perform her single “New Rules.”

MINDY KALING

We’re jealous of Mindy Kaling for many reasons: She knows Oprah; she was in the coolest girl-gang in film history in Ocean’s 8 (Cate Blanchett, Sandra Bullock, Awkwafina, Rihanna…). And over the years we’ve seen her wear just about every color—from neon yellow to electric pink—and wear it well. This gorgeous violet Greta ­Constantine gown, from A Wrinkle in Time’s Los Angeles premiere, is just another ­amazing color choice. Oh, did we mention she has her own Barbie?

UNDER $150,000

Gianna Locket and Mirror Compact in 14k yellow gold with 4.7 ct. emerald, 0.71 ct. t.w. diamonds, and 0.09 ct. fancy greenish-yellow diamond; $9,500; GiGi Ferranti; info@gigiferranti jewelry.com; gigi ferrantijewelry.com

UNDER $5,000 Serpenti High Jewelry necklace in 18k pink gold with malachite and diamond; price on request; Bulgari; 800-BULGARI; bulgari.com

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

Malachite Aladdin Potion Bottle in 14k rose gold with diamond chain; $2,965; Jacquie Aiche; sales@ jacquieaiche.com; jacquieaiche.com

Cascade earrings with 20 cts. t.w. pear-shape diamonds in 18k white gold; $48,000; Beladora; sales@beladora.com; beladora.com

Earrings with 21.37 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $126,000; Sutra Jewels; sales@ sutrajewels.com; sutrajewels.com

UNDER $5,000 Abstract Floral earrings with 0.92 ct. t.w. diamonds in 14k white gold; $2,700; KC Designs; 800-552-3790; kcdesignsnyc.com JCKONLINE.COM

LIPA: AXELLE/BAUER-GRIFFIN/FILMMAGIC; KALING: ALBERTO E. RODRIGUEZ/GETTY

UNDER $10,000


the look

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

62

18k yellow gold Rainbow & Raindrop, Wildflower & Grass, Wildflower & Bee, and Rainbow & Unicorn double-sided rings; $2,100–$3,350

RAINBOW BRIGHT

Pack up your troubles and just get happy. Jewelry designer Brent Neale is going to chase all your cares away.

A

BY VENESSA LAU

Magic Mushroom band ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.17 ct. t.w. diamond baguettes; $1,695; Brent Neale; 646-745-6831; brentneale.com

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

S A SENIOR at Johns Hopkins University, Martha Brent Neale once interviewed at Morgan Stanley. Stepping up to its midtown Manhattan building, a monolith of glass and lines, dressed in a navy Theory suit and a chunky multistrand Peruvian opal necklace, she was nervous and a little unsure of what she was doing. After all, she had her sights set on law. But her sister, a trader, had persuaded her to look into finance. It turns out the headhunter would offer a third option. When complimented on the bijoux, Neale revealed that she made it herself. The response: “What are you doing here? You should really be doing that.” “Oh, yeah, sure,” the Baltimore native recalls of her reaction, between bites of Baltimore Crab Cakes at the Madison Avenue outpost of Freds at Barneys New York. “Being a jewelry designer? That was never something I thought of as a career path.” She chuckles at the memory. “I really should look up the recruiter’s name.” Today Neale is a jewelry designer who has more than a decade’s worth of experience under her belt and this May celebrated the one-year anniversary of her debut collection, Brent Neale. (“Everyone in my family goes by their middle name,” she explains of the MIA “Martha.”) In fact, we’re meeting at Barneys because it’s one of her key retailers; her designs, a joyous cocktail of color and whimsy in mushroom pendants and unicorn studs, are displayed right by the entrance—prime real estate for a young label.

Small Rainbow tennis bracelet in 18k yellow gold with 0.96 ct. t.w. pink tourmaline, 0.72 ct. t.w. citrine, 0.72 ct. t.w. peridot, 1.2 cts. t.w. amethysts, and 1.2 cts. t.w. blue topaz; $3,150

JCKONLINE.COM


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the look

64

DESIGNER SHOWCASE

One-of-a-kind Multi Door and Flower Charm necklace in 18k yellow gold with lapis, ebony wood, malachite, turquoise, white agate, and diamonds; $76,390

“You can’t be everything to everyone. Because then your voice gets lost.” —Brent Neale

Clover & Hummingbird double-sided ring in 18k yellow gold with 0.064 ct. t.w. diamonds and 13.5 cts. t.w. white agate; $2,750

Clover & Double Heart drop earrings in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, blue topaz, reconstituted turquoise, lapis, and coral; $3,650

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

Even if Neale never set out to be a jewelry designer—each step of her career has its share of happenstance, one learns— the signs were there. During college, she accompanied her “crafty” and antiques-loving mother to gem shows outside of Washington, D.C. And her sister in New York City, having noticed Neale’s subsequent interest in beading, directed her to the bead emporiums in the Garment District whenever Neale visited. That’s how she began dabbling in jewelry as a hobby—nothing serious, though, just “stringing and wire-wrapping and stuff like that.” Months after her fleeting brush with finance—spoiler: She didn’t get the job—Neale took a summer gig at Bonne Nuit, an East Hampton shop owned by a family friend, which occasionally sold her wares. She was on duty the day a woman came in, inquiring about the necklaces. Neale ­introduced herself as the designer and soon had a job offer; the customer owned a company that made private-label jewelry for big-box retailers. Neale spent two and a half years with the firm, Horizon Group, before enrolling in the jewelry design program at the Fashion Institute of Technology to acquire the technical skills she couldn’t pick up on her own. Kismet struck again during her second year at FIT when she met jewelry designer Kara Ross at a wedding—Neale’s then-boyfriend, now her husband, is friends with Ross’ brother—which resulted in an internship with Ross’ company and, after graduating in 2007, a full-time job. She spent eight years there, climbing her way up to jewelry director and working on everything from the launch of costume— Ross’ answer to the skyrocketing price of gold in 2008—to

designer collaborations with J. Mendel, Naeem Khan, and Tory Burch. “Kara is a force of nature,” gushes Neale. “And when you work for her, the relationship is more than just employee-employer—she’s a cheerleader, very giving and encouraging. She’s like that with everyone at her company.” Neale acknowledges it was hard to go from a tight-knit family environment, with a mentor like Ross, to a solo act. And she admits branching off was never part of the game plan. “I liked being part of a team, and I loved working for her,” Neale says. “When you work for yourself, you’re not just a jewelry designer; you’re a business owner and have to think about accounting, inventory, hiring people.… It’s a lot. I wasn’t sure I ever wanted to do that.” What changed her mind? She had a son in 2013 and, two years later, twin daughters. While Neale came back to work after the first pregnancy, the second proved harder— she was deemed high-risk and had to go on bed rest. So she trained her replacement and officially left Ross in July 2015. “I didn’t really have a choice,” Neale says. “I was going to have three kids, all under 3, and I didn’t want to miss this time with them.” More than a year in, sensing she was going stir-crazy, her husband suggested she start sketching again. So she did, whipping up an initial drawing of a rainbow ring, a spectrum of brightly colored gemstones bursting from an opal cloud—it’s a signature now and perfectly encapsulates the buoyant, playful vibe of her line. Asked about the inspiration, Neale doesn’t mince words. “That was a really tough year,” she says. “The girls were premature and JCKONLINE.COM


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E.L. Designs ED LEVIN STUDIO


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DESIGNER SHOWCASE

Opal bead necklace with 18k yellow gold clasp and blue topaz charm, $1,800; large Rainbow Tassel pendant on 22-inch chain in 18k yellow gold with pink tourmaline, citrine, peridot, blue topaz, and amethyst; $4,905

Malachite Mushroom pendant in 18k gold with pink tourmaline, citrine, peridot, blue topaz, and amethyst baguettes; $3,950

Rainbow Tiered earrings in 18k yellow gold with 2.88 cts. t.w. pink tourmaline, 2.4 cts. t.w. citrine, 1.92 cts. t.w. amethysts, and 1.44 cts. t.w. blue topaz; $9,255

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

in the hospital for two months. It’s a horrible feeling not being able to bring them home and not knowing if they’re going to be okay. I told myself, If I am going to do my own thing, then I want to make people feel happy.” She named her first offerings After the Rain. She has since expanded her range, priced from $1,000 up to $12,000, but continues with the through-line of optimism, color, and delight: turquoise wildflowers dotted with diamonds and a tiny bee; kaleidoscopic ammonite pendants; malachite mushrooms with gemstone “spots”; carved doors inspired by entrances she’s seen in her travels, from Rome (lapis) to the Bahamas (turquoise, with gold hummingbirds). Her next collection, for fall, is inspired by traditional Danish still lifes—exuberant blooms in vases, a mix of colors in stones. It’s easy to see the appeal: Neale’s jewelry offers an escape, and a hit of happiness and f­ antasy—without the hangover. So far, she has nine accounts nationwide, including Forty Five Ten in Texas, Elizabeth Bruns in North Carolina, and online ­destinations Moda Operandi and Auverture. “Kara taught me the importance of the right retail partners,” Neale says. “You can’t be everything to everyone. You’ll be doing ­yourself a disservice. Because then your voice gets lost. “In the back of my mind, I always hear her: ‘Do you love this? Do you really love this?’ ” Neale continues. “Kara would tell me to keep things fresh but at the same time, when you’re designing, you can get carried away. She’d draw it back. ‘You have to love it. If you don’t love it, don’t put it out there.’ ” Another great lesson Neale picked up from Ross was the importance of private clientele. “If your business is 100 percent wholesale, where so much of it is consignment,” she explains, “I don’t know how you can make it.” Enter Instagram, which wasn’t a force during her days working for Ross but has been a boon in expanding Neale’s customer base. Three months after her debut, Neale sold her first item—a four-figure rainbow ring—on the social media platform to a follower who direct-messaged her while lunching with a friend on the Upper East Side. The designer dispatched an intern to the restaurant with the ring (and a portable credit card reader)—and the woman bought it on the spot. “It is immediate,” Neale says, adding that she nets, on average, about a sale a week or more on Instagram. “And, remember, this is fine jewelry. It’s awesome—I don’t have my own store, so this lets me have a direct relationship to people.” Her retailers are reaping the benefits as well. The week before this interview, she sent a follower who liked an earring she posted to Barneys. In 48 hours, the client bought a pair—and sent Neale a selfie wearing them. In fact, throughout our conversation, Neale’s phone has been buzzing nonstop. She’s polite about it, profusely apologizing for the interruptions. One wonders if it’s her children or a work emergency. It’s the latter, sort of. As a largely one-woman operation, Neale isn’t just the designer and the business head—she’s customer service as well. Those texts she’s been getting? They’re from private clients. “If people aren’t happy,” Neale says, “they won’t come back to you. And my jewelry is about making people smile.” JCKONLINE.COM


the look

Q&A

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Asks...

RICHARD MILLE A few minutes with the engineer/artist/inventor behind the eponymous 17-year-old watch brand

IN AN ALTERNATE universe, Richard Mille might not have gone into the watch business. “In my mind, I had three options,” he says. “Aircraft, cars, or watches.” Looking at his timepieces— each an inimitable, fantastically complex feat of artistry and technology—it’s hard to imagine Mille doing anything else. Still, he hasn’t strayed far from his original interests. The cutting-edge materials he employs, elements such as titanium and carbon, are “innovations directly drawn from the automotive and aerospace industries,” he says. The Paris-based Mille is particularly ­passionate about cars—especially “the golden age of motor racing, from the ’60s through the ’70s.” (Note the photo of him in one of his vintage cars at the Chantilly Arts + Elegance Richard Mille Concours d’Elegance.) His brand’s hashtag, appropriately, is #ARacingMachineontheWrist. —MELISSA ROSE BERNARDO Age: 67 Number of years in the biz: More than 40. Number of employees you oversee: Around 400 with all the Richard Mille boutiques, factory, regional offices, and head office. Family and pets: My wife, seven children, horses, ducks, geese, fish, three cats, and a dog. Describe your personal style: I do not adhere to a single style; I follow my instincts and moods to create my own style. First watch you ever designed: I was at Matra Horlogerie, on a team in charge of special projects: We had fun creating watches SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

RM 051 Phoenix–Michelle Yeoh (seen on Yeoh in Crazy Rich Asians)

RM 031 High Performance (limited to 10 platinum pieces)

for astronauts like Patrick Baudry and Jean-Loup Chrétien, Russian cosmonauts, and explorer Jean-Louis Etienne, who was preparing to cross Antarctica. Timepiece you’re most proud of: The very first RM 001 from 2001 will ­always represent a special moment. It was the beginning of a great adventure. Best advice you ever received: “Recognize what you believe in, and do not deviate from the path you have chosen to follow. Dare to believe in your ideas and…learn to defend them independently of what others say or think about them.” Worst advice: When a person says something is impossible. First job ever: I used to wash the neighbors’ cars to earn extra pocket money when I was a child. If you weren’t making watches, what would you be doing? I would work in the aircraft or automobile industry. I love everything that is about technicity and design. Watch you’re wearing right now: The RM 60-01 regatta watch on a yellow strap. On your desk right now: Model cars, plane and car ­composites, an ejector seat for a fighter aircraft. Exercise regimen: Thirty minutes of sport and stretching every morning [and] 20 minutes under the shower. I start with tepid water, then I go to very hot water, and I finish with very cold water. Always. A good combination to be in good shape. What did you have for breakfast? Fruit, yogurt, and a double espresso. I love to take time to have my breakfast. Guilty pleasure: M&M’s because they are delicious and addictive. Drink (daytime/evening): A really great red wine, or a Negroni. First website you check every day: Motorsport.com, to get an overview of the current racing events and results. Scent: Habit Rouge by Guerlain. How do you unwind? A 20-minute nap—not a minute more—every day. Favorite movie: I like to remember the movie by Luis Buñuel, The Phantom of Liberty; it’s a rather surrealist film. Personal motto: “If you are not 110 percent passionate about your goals, then you cannot achieve success in what you want.” JCKONLINE.COM

MILLE: WEE KHIM; M&M’S: SHUTTERSTOCK; AIRPLANE: STEPHAN ZIRWES/GETTY; THE PHANTOM OF LIBERTY: © 20TH CENTURY FOX FILM CORP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION

RM 60-01 regatta on a black rubber strap


source 800-972-1162

a place of origin. a supplier. AGTA Members are your ethical resource for all links along the jewelry supply chain – mine to market. Join us at the 2019 AGTA GemFair™ Tucson.

info@agta.org

www.agta.org

@agta_gems


SEE HOW WRISTS CAN TURN HEADS. Our Erté Collection is just one example of the brilliance of Évocateur. This unique collection of jewelry opens a whole new category in your store. Each piece is painstakingly hand-gilded with 22k gold leaf in the USA and lets a woman beautifully share her own personal story.

I N F O @ E V O C AT E U R S T Y L E . C O M E V O C AT E U R S T Y L E . C O M 203-956-0705 COTERIE September 15-17, Javits Booth 7027 JA NY October 28-30, Javits Booth 1044

©Sevenarts Ltd.


HAIR: SASHA NESTERCHUK/BUMBLE AND BUMBLE, KÉRASTASE & HOT TOOLS ; MAKEUP: BOBBY BUJISIC USING MAC COSMETICS/JUDY CASEY; STYLIST: NADIA RATH/FACTORY DOWNTOWN; MANICURE: ROSEANN SINGLETON USING CHANEL/ART DEPARTMENT; MODEL: YADA VILLARET/WILHELMINA; CLOTHING: SEE PAGE 79

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White South Sea pearl earrings in rhodium-plated 18k white gold with 1.51 cts. t.w. sapphires, $5,500, Gabrielle Sanchez, 212-473-8372, gabriellesanchez. com; white South Sea baroque pearl necklace in 18k white gold with 1.5 cts. t.w. diamonds and 115

cts. t.w. sapphires, $66,000, DSL Pearl, 212-575-9127, dslpearl.com; floral 18k yellow gold ring with mother-of-pearl, 0.75 ct. sapphire, and 1.14 cts. t.w. diamonds, $4,455, Rudolf Friedmann, 212-869-5070, rudolffriedmann. com; rose gold pearl ring with 0.09 ct. t.w. diamonds, $780, Selim Mouzannar, info@ selimmouzannar.com; selimmouzannar.com

FEATURES Photog raph by Gavin O’Neill


ENTER A GOLDEN AGE, GET TICKLED PINK, EXPLORE A G R AY A R E A , WO R K SOME WHITE MAGIC, AND GO BACK TO BLACK WITH OUR ODE TO PEARLS IN ALL THEIR M U LT I H U E D G L O R Y

18k white gold Spine drop earrings with Australian pearls and diamonds, $8,500, Samira 13, 310-652-1313, samira13.com; bow pendant necklace in rhodium-plated brass with mabe pearls, Swarovski crystals, and rock crystal, $3,630, Iradj Moini, 212-5949242, iradjmoini. com; South Sea pearl bracelet with 8.34 cts. t.w. pavé diamonds, $22,000, Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace, 212-988-1511, gempalace.com; Medusa 18k rose gold ring with South Sea baroque pearl, sapphires, and

diamonds, $21,000, Belpearl, 212752-6600, belpearl. com; Kristen cuff in oxidized silver and 24k gold with 24.82 cts. t.w. motherof-pearl and 0.15 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,960, Lika Behar, 201-933-7200, likabehar.com; Grishna rhodiumplated pearl ring with 18k gold vermeil and diamonds, $800, Modern Moghul, 361-239-8799, modernmoghul. com; American natural pearl double shank ring in 18k yellow gold, $4,720, Ten Thousand Things, 212-3521333, tenthousand thingsnyc.com

D O M I N A T I O N

Photog raphy by Gavin O’Neill St ylist Nadia Rath Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi


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(This page) White South Sea and Tahitian pearl necklace (in hair) in 18k white gold with 1.8 cts. t.w. diamond clasp, $54,000, DSL Pearl, 212-5759127, dslpearl.com; 18k gold–plated brass earrings with green amethyst, freshwater pearls, and Swarovski crystals, $795, Iradj Moini, 212-5949242, iradjmoini. com; 18k rose gold ring with black South Sea pearls, $1,980, Alessandra Donà at Gioielli Group, 914-289-0206, alessandradona. com; 18k yellow gold Multi Tahitian Bubble pearl ring, $10,200, Assael, 212-8190060, assael.com; 10k yellow gold cuff ring with Tahitian black pearl and 0.05 ct. diamond, $800, Hirotaka, 81-36256-9617, hiro-taka. com; 18k white gold ring with Tahitian

keshi pearls and 0.24 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,200, Baggins, 213-624-2277, bagginspearls.com; Tahitian and South Sea pearl ring in 18k gold with 0.97 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,300, Daniel Dilman, 800-7327522, danieldilman. com; white South Sea and Tahitian pearl bangle in 18k white gold with 1.03 cts. t.w. diamonds, $7,200, DSL Pearl (Opposite page) Four-strand akoya pearl choker with 4.56 cts. t.w. diamonds, $10,000, Butani, info@ butani.com, butani. com; 14k yellow gold akoya pearl necklace with large removable lock, $12,200, Marla Aaron, 917-9919246, marlaaaron. com; triple-strand white South Sea pearl bracelet in 18k white gold with 1.24 cts. t.w. diamonds, $18,000, DSL Pearl; Octopider ring in 18k rose gold with South Sea pearl and 2.85 cts. t.w. champagne diamonds, $8,500, Belpearl, 212-7526600, belpearl.com; Floating Pearl Ear Pin in 18k yellow gold with 0.06 ct. diamond, $720, KatKim, sales@ katkimfinejewelry. com, katkimfine jewelry.com


(Opposite page) Freshwater pearl Icicle earrings in 18k gold, $1,575, Annette Ferdinandsen, info@aferdinandsen. com, annette ferdinandsen. com; 18k white gold necklace with freshwater baroque pearls and Ethiopian opal beads, $17,600, Jye’s International, 415621-8880, jyescorp. com; Mahiya necklace with pearls and moonstones in blackened sterling silver, $3,000, Modern Moghul, 361-239-8799, modernmoghul.com; Baby Akoya necklace in 14k yellow gold with 18k gold tricolor clasp, $5,200, Baggins, 213-6242277, bagginspearls. com; Grotto pendant in 14k yellow gold with blue sapphires, freshwater soufflé pearl, and diamonds, $8,100, little h, 424-349-8203, littlehjewelry.com; Sagel pearl and diamond pendant (in hand), $2,800, Modern Moghul

(This page) 18k white gold pearl choker (on hat) with 7.4 ct. emerald and 3.8 cts. t.w. diamonds, $18,000, Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace, 212-988-1511, gempalace.com; 14k gold akoya pearl large hoop earrings, $1,550, Mizuki, hello@mizukijewels. com, mizukijewels. com; sterling silver necklace with white cultured freshwater pearls and 0.38 ct. t.w. pavé diamonds, $2,800, David Yurman, 888-3987626, davidyurman. com; 18k white gold Bubble bracelet with South Sea and Japanese akoya cultured pearls, $24,000, Assael, 212-819-0060, assael.com; 18k yellow gold South Sea pearl ring with 1.23 cts. t.w. diamonds, $1,725, 18k white gold South Sea pearl cuff with 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,495, Cirari, 212-764-2823, cirari. com; stackable white South Sea pearl ring in 18k white gold, $1,595, Rudolf Friedmann, 212-869-5070, rudolffriedmann.com

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(This page) 18k yellow gold Kobe Collier with 5.65 cts. t.w. diamonds and South Sea Burmese golden pearls, $58,000, Belpearl, 212-752-6600, belpearl.com; 24k yellow gold white pearl necklace with 2.8 cts. t.w. diamonds, $17,000, Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace, 212-988-1511, gempalace.com; golden keshi South Sea pearl necklace with 18k yellow gold clasp and 0.91 ct. t.w. diamonds, $22,800, set of two golden keshi pearl strands with 18k yellow gold shortener, $30,000, Assael, 212-8190060, assael.com; 18k gold Branching Coral Kasumi pearl ring with 5.8 cts. t.w. rubies and orange and pink sapphires, $4,200, Kimberlin Brown, 917-478-8441, kimberlinbrown jewelry.com; golden pearl Talon ring in 18k gold, $2,050, Annette Ferdinandsen, info@aferdinandsen. com, annette ferdinandsen.com; stackable gold South Sea pearl ring in 18k yellow gold, $990, Rudolf Friedmann, 212-869-5070, rudolffriedmann.com; South Sea pearl ear cuff (worn as ring) in 10k yellow gold, $425, Hirotaka, 81-36-256-9617, hiro-taka.com

(Opposite page) 18k yellow gold freshwater pearl earrings with 3.44 cts. t.w. brown rose-cut diamonds, $3,790, Deeta Thakural, 212-9447575, deetathakural. com; pearl and ruby lariat tassel necklace in 18k yellow gold with diamonds, $24,000, Andrew Glassford Jewels, 214-402-4952, andrewglassford jewels.com; metallic pink freshwater nesting necklaces, $1,760, pair of nesting pastel multicolored freshwater pearl necklaces, $1,380, Gabrielle Sanchez, 212473-8372, gabrielle sanchez.com; white South Sea and pink freshwater pearl necklace in 18k rose gold with 0.4 ct. t.w. diamonds, $33,000, pink freshwater pearl ring in 18k rose gold with 0.46 ct. t.w. diamonds, $4,050, DSL Pearl, 212-5759127, dslpearl.com; freshwater Japanese baroque pearl ring in 18k yellow gold with 5.7 cts. t.w. pink, orange, and yellow sapphires, $3,890, Kimberlin Brown; Kasumiga and South Sea pearl bracelet, $11,000, Belpearl


CLOTHING (IN PAGE ORDER): MESH TOP: MSGM VINTAGE; BODYSUIT: BERSHKA; BLACK DRESS: ELIZABETH & JAMES VINTAGE; BODYSUIT: BERSHKA; HAT: STYLIST’S OWN; WHITE TANK: ANN DEMEULEMEESTER VINTAGE


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THE GIFT OF FAB

Y O U ’ L L F I N D S O M E T H I N G F O R A L L O F Y O U R M O S T S T Y L E - S AV V Y CLIENTS—WHETHER THEIR BUDGET IS $250, $2,500, OR $20,000 AND BEYOND —IN OUR TREND -BY-TREND SEASONAL SHOPPING ROUNDUP

Photography by Joel Stans Prop Stylist Astrid Chastka Jewelry Editor Rima Suqi


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A BST R ACT EA R R I N G S (From top, all sold as pairs) Gold-plated brass Gazelle earrings with peacock freshwater pearls and onyx tops, $265, Lizzie Fortunato, wholesale@lizziefortunato.com, lizziefortunato.com; 18k gold earrings with 0.06 ct. t.w. diamonds, 3.65 cts. t.w. faceted and cabochon emeralds, and 8.49 cts. t.w. handcarved emerald beads, $6,500, Margery Hirschey, 303-818-6357, margeryhirschey.com; Nakshatr 18k gold vermeil earrings with 1.17 cts. t.w. diamonds and 23.8 cts. t.w. rubies, emeralds, and moonstones, $2,000, Modern Moghul, 361-2398799, modernmoghul.com; Double Moon Branch yellow gold–plated earrings with white sapphires, $250, Eye M by Ileana Makri, artemis@ rainbowwave.com, ileanamakri.com


GY PSY S ET T I N G S (Clockwise from top) 18k gold pendant necklace with 11 ct. Madagascar sapphire, $3,550, Ten Thousand Things, 212-352-1333, tenthousandthingsnyc.com; 18k yellow gold bracelet with 2.96 ct. emerald and 0.7 ct. t.w. diamonds, $22,000, Sanjay Kasliwal of the Gem Palace, 212-988-1511, gempalace.com; 24k gold Dylan ring with 0.35 cts. t.w. diamonds, $1,870, Lika Behar, 201-9337200, likabehar.com; 18k recycled gold ring with 3.2 ct. dark pink tourmaline, $2,775, Me&Ro, 646747-5779, meandrojewelry.com


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H EA RT S H A P ES (Clockwise from top) Large turquoise heart pendant on 18k gold chain, $2,500, Leigh Maxwell, 319-5737451, leighmaxwell.com; 14k yellow and white gold ring with diamonds, $2,420, Nancy Newberg, 866-3016873, nancynewberg.com; Evil Eye 18k yellow gold heart charm with Gemfields ruby, blue topaz, and white diamonds, $2,260, Holly Dyment for Gemfields x Muse, 866-301-6873, hollydyment.com; Kate collection 14k gold heart earrings with 0.09 ct. t.w. diamonds, $760, Shy Creation, 213-623-8900, shycreation.com; 14k yellow gold pink quartz ring, $1,200, Loquet, sales@loquetlondon.com, loquetlondon.com


M E DA L L I O N S/ O PAQ U E G E M S (Left to right) 18k yellow gold and diamond M3 True Love and NCL1 number clip with 18k gold Dotted Annex link and 18k gold and ChamplevĂŠ enamel Strength petite medallion, $10,140, Foundrae, 212-231-9898, foundrae.com; Mini 14k gold Starburst ring with Sleeping Beauty turquoise and 0.08 ct. t.w. diamonds, $1,350, M. Spalten, mspalten@mspalten.com, mspalten. com; Zodiac pendant in 18k gold with single center diamond, $4,750, Established, 646-745-6831, establishedjewelry.com; platinum earrings with 3.8 ct. Laguna agate, 56.18 cts. t.w. lapis, and 0.94 ct. t.w. diamonds, $14,500 (sold as pair), Featherstone Fine Jewelry, 212343-0604, featherstonedesign.com; 14k gold open link necklace with Crown medallion, $6,500, Dudley VanDyke, 843-372-1177, dudleyvan dyke.com; 18k yellow gold ring with 17.45 ct. Persian turquoise, $2,925, Me&Ro, 646-747-5779, meandro jewelry.com; Ritratto 18k rose gold ring with 16 ct. lapis and 0.65 ct. t.w. brown diamonds, $7,700, Pomellato, 800-254-6020, pomellato.com


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NO BUSINESS LIKE SNOW BUSINESS H O L I D AY

S U RV I VA L GUIDE

I T ’ S H A R D TO T H I N K A B O U T T H E H O L I D AY S W H E N YO U ’ R E S T I L L WEARING SHORTS AND SANDALS. BUT TRUST US: IT ’S TIME. PREP Y O U R S TA F F A N D S TO R E W I T H O U R N O - FA I L Y E A R - E N D S A L E S T I P S .

b y S t e p h a n i e Vo z z a Illustrations by Leandro Alzate

ASK THE RIGHT QUESTIONS… AND FIND THE BEST SEASONAL SALESPEOPLE RECRUITING HOLIDAY HELP is different from hiring staff members during the year. You often have less opportunity to train seasonal employees, and they’ll be with you for a shorter period of time. You need to find quick learners with ready skills who are a good cultural fit. “As you’ll be providing little or less training than you do for full-time employees, understanding preferences and skills is even more critical,” says Carisa Miklusak, cofounder and CEO of the Cincinnati-based hiring platform Tilr.


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To find the best candidates, here are five questions to ask:

1. “DO YOU HAVE SALES EXPERIENCE?”

This one seems like a no-brainer, but it’s absolutely essential during the holidays. Employees need to be able to handle the rush while providing the best customer experience possible. For employees who will be checking out customers, also ask if they’re familiar with pointof-sale software, which can speed up the training process, Miklusak says.

2. “WHY DO YOU WANT TO WORK HERE?”

“If the candidate doesn’t express passion for the business or the jewelry industry, it should be a deal breaker,” says Marcie Merriman, executive director of growth strategy and retail innovation for EY (Ernst & Young). Ultimately you want to hire workers who are also familiar with your brand, adds Miklusak.

3. “DESCRIBE A TIME IN YOUR CAREER WHEN YOU HAD TO LEARN A NEW SKILL QUICKLY.”

The ability to adapt is one of the most important traits of temporary workers, says Janelle Bieler, vice president of sales at the staffing firm Adecco. “This includes picking up on the specifics of their project, learning the company’s processes and protocols, and meshing well with the company culture.”

4. “HOW WOULD YOU HANDLE AN ANGRY CUSTOMER?”

The holiday season is hectic for everyone, and chances are your employees will encounter someone who isn’t happy. Ask candidates to describe a past experience with an angry customer, and make sure their approach matches your store’s customer service policies, Miklusak says.

5. “WOULD YOU CONSIDER A PERMANENT POSITION AT A LATER DATE?”

With a limited amount of available talent on the market, a lot of companies look at their pool of seasonal employees as a pipeline for future positions, Bieler says. “Companies are able to test candidates out for a few weeks and, if the candidate fits seamlessly into the company culture and shows long-term potential, offer them a full- or part-time position.”

TAP INTO TECHNOLOGY FOR FASTER HOLIDAY HIRING HIRING SEASONAL HELP is one more thing for your never-ending holiday to-do list. You want to draw from a large talent pool and find the right person, but that can take time. Here are seven tools and websites that will help you recruit, interview, and hire people more quickly.

• CANVAS

• INDEED

• LIVE VIDEO INTERVIEWS

Undoubtedly the No. 1 job site on the internet. Post your position in its “seasonal jobs” category to draw from a large candidate pool. (indeed.com/about)

On this platform, interview via live online video instead of time-­consuming in-person meetings. You can even hold virtual job fairs, and talk to several ­candidates during a preset block of time. (livevideointerviews.com)

• JOBSNAP

Looking for a way to target the next generation (and the generation after that)? On the Jobsnap app, employers post three questions, and applicants send their responses by video. You can choose to pass or move forward with the candidate. (jobsnap.work)

Do interviews via text—millennials’ preferred method of communication. Text in real time or use the app’s bot, which guides candidates through a series of questions. You’ll save time in avoiding missed phone calls, a pitfall of telephone screening. (gocanvas.io)

• SPARK HIRE

Spark Hire is another video interview platform. In addition to its live feature, you can have candidates record ­answers to your questions that you review at a later time. (sparkhire.com/tour)

• EMAIL

• TILR

It may not be cutting-edge, but your own customer base is one of the best sources for holiday help. Send an email as part of your usual email marketing efforts, promoting your seasonal opportunities (and your employee discount!).

This app actually does the hiring for you, prescreening on-demand employees via an algorithm that matches their skills to your job requirements. You get to skip the recruiting and interviewing process altogether. (tilr.com)


TRADE YOUR TRUNK SHOW FOR A POP-UP SHOP THE POP-UP shop is designed to be an immersive shopping experience. Because it’s here today and gone tomorrow, the temporary retail event encourages store owners to get creative with displays and offerings. Pop-up shops also offer several benefits for jewelers, says Arielle Crane, communications manager for Storefront, an online marketplace for ­temporary retail space. “Pop-up stores are a great way for ­jewelry brands to gain more exposure, showcase their designs in a new, creative way, and—for ­jewelry brands that are solely e-commerce—to exist in a physical space that allows customers both new and old to interact with the designs in a new, engaging way,” she says. “We see a lot of success with jewelry stores who decide to pop up and build buzz.” If you want to try the concept, first set your budget and schedule, recommends Crane. “Envision the type of space you want,” she says. “Knowing your space requirements, ­including amenities, will help you narrow down your search and save you time.”

MAKE A CYBER MONDAY LIST (AND CHECK IT TWICE)

IS YOUR WEBSITE ready for Nov. 26, 2018? Better known as Cyber Monday, the Monday after Thanksgiving is also the internet’s biggest shopping day, and you need to be ready, says Matthew Rhodus, director and industry principal for retail at the business software provider Oracle NetSuite. “The most important thing is to not wait—start now,” Rhodus says. “There is no substitute for preparation. So much is riding on these few days of the year that it’s key to make sure you are

Because pop-ups are a hot trend, Crane says it can be easy to find stores and opportunities. A quick internet search will likely result in several options. Just make sure the location fits your end goals. If you want to attract a lot of customers, try popping up in a high–foot traffic area or piggybacking off existing traffic at popular store centers, suggests Crane. If you’re after a unique experience for your customers, take into consideration which neighborhood will help reflect that, she says. Give a lot of thought to your design. Part of the charm of a pop-up is that it’s temporary, and that allows you to get creative. The more out-of-the-box your ideas are, the bigger buzz you’ll create. Approach your first pop-up as a learning experience, keeping notes on what worked and what didn’t so you’ll be prepared for the next time, Crane says. “The best part is that you can host multiple pop-up stores in the future, so you can continue to adapt and grow your pop-up and brand strategy.”

­ repping for this months p ahead of time.” Here’s a checklist of tasks to get you on track for big post–Turkey Day sales:

1. IDENTIFY YOUR TARGET MARKET.

Determine which customer segment you want to target, and construct your marketing campaign around that, Rhodus says. “Bring in elements of past purchase history into that planning,” he adds. “Not everyone will jump at Cyber Monday, and it might not be worth spending effort trying to convert them.”

2. PLAN YOUR HOLIDAY SALES.

Plan and organize the sales and promotions you will be holding. Confirm that you have enough inventory to fulfill orders; nothing is worse than a disappointed customer.

3. PREPARE YOUR WEBSITE.

Touch base with your hosting provider to ensure the company makes appropriate adjustments to accommodate an increase in traffic, says Zavida Mangaru, executive vice president of product strategy and innovation at North American Bancard. “If you host the website


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service training in St. Louis. “Providing excellent ­customer service will increase the chances that the shopper will not only continue to give your store return business, but [also] recommend you to family and friends.” Here are five ways to turn seasonal shoppers into repeat customers.

1. FOLLOW UP AFTER A PURCHASE.

TURN YEAR-END SHOPPERS INTO YEAR-ROUND CUSTOMERS on your own server, you can test its load capacity with tools like LoadImpact.com.”

4. TEST AND TEST AGAIN.

“Make sure that page loads, banner content, hero images, item uploads, and other pieces of your site all work as expected,” Rhodus says. “It’s critical to test many times between now and November.” If your site can’t handle the load, you want to know now.

5. OPTIMIZE FOR MOBILE. The number of mobile shoppers has increased dramatically, accounting for 63.5 percent of

e-commerce sales, according to market research firm eMarketer. Optimizing your online store for a fluid mobile interaction is critical in today’s high-speed retail environments, Mangaru says.

6. EXPAND YOUR PAYMENT OPTIONS. Payment methods for consumers are more abundant and diverse than ever. “The usage of mobile wallets like Apple Pay, Masterpass, Alipay, and more is becoming more frequent,” Mangaru says. “Make sure you are familiar [with] and prepared to accept the evolving payment forms that your target demographic prefers.”

THE HOLIDAY SEASON sends a greater than usual number of people through your door and to your website. And wouldn’t it be great if those people stopped by more often? While the season can be stressful and hectic, the holidays provide retailers with an opportunity to start new relationships and demonstrate outstanding customer service. More business is lost due to poor service and poor treatment than poor p ­ roduct, says Nancy Friedman, founder and president of Telephone Doctor customer

7. PREVENT FRAUD.

The pace of sales on Cyber Monday provides criminals with opportunities to slip through the cracks. But don’t make the mistake of ignoring the customer experience, says Michael Reitblat, cofounder and CEO of Forter, which provides fraudprevention solutions to the jewelry industry. Consider fraud-prevention software that can identify problems in real time, via means such as behavioral analysis and machine learning. “A technology-driven and scalable solution will ensure that fraudsters are stopped in their tracks and legitimate shoppers receive their goods,” Reitblat says, “even on the busiest shopping day of the year.”

Don’t overlook the power of saying “thank you.” Send a personalized note to let your customers know you appreciate their business. You can also call them after the holidays to see if they’re enjoying their purchases.

2. PROMOTE YOUR EMAIL LIST.

Give a discount or free gift to customers who sign up for your email list during their transaction. This provides you with permission to contact them throughout the year with news or offers. Keep them engaged by sending emails that do more than just promote your business; share valuable content that’s educational and entertaining.

3. CREATE A LOYALTY PROGRAM.

Offer a discount or free gift after customers spend a certain amount of money in your store. Their holiday purchases will put them on track to earning rewards, and they might take advantage of the savings for their next jewelry purchase.

4. INVITE CUSTOMERS TO VISIT YOUR SOCIAL MEDIA PAGES.

Add your social media pages to your receipts or packaging, and ask customers to visit you there. Make sure your pages are filled with colorful content and encourage customers to share their own photos. Be sure to tout promotions or sales and offer a discount to followers.

5. OFFER CLEANING OR BATTERY REPLACEMENTS.

Invite customers to bring their jewelry and watches back to you for cleaning or battery replacement. You can provide the service for free to those who sign up for your email list or loyalty program, or to people who follow you on social media.


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Rep AIRS ORDER YOU R

IF IT’S BROKE, NO PROBLEM! THERE IS MAJOR MONEY TO BE MADE IN RESIZING, REFINISHING & RESETTING. b y E m i l i Ve s i l i n d

ASON LEMAIRE, DIRECTOR of tools at Stuller, the Lafayette, La.–based jewelry and supplies manufacturer, has a stock question he often asks jewelers: “When was the last time you walked into a Goodyear and tried to negotiate the labor price of putting on a new set of tires?” The answer, of course, is “never.” And the question is designed to illustrate how not charging customers uniformly for repair work makes little sense. As does neglecting to factor labor hours, overhead costs, and appropriate markups into final repair prices, he contends. Lemaire, like many other industry professionals who consult with bench jewelers and store proprietors, says the business ­opportunity in repairs is immense—but is too often sidelined by independent jewelers. David Geller, a former bench jeweler who in 2000 authored the book most jewelers consider to be the definitive pricing guide for jewelry repairs, Geller’s Blue Book to Jewelry Repair & Design (jewelerprofit.com/blue_book.html ), intimately ­understands the

(THIS PAGE) COURTESY OF STULLER; (OPPOSITE) GALLERY STOCK

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Left: a variety of hand-held tools and equipment for bench jewelers, all by Stuller

dangers of chronic discounting. Geller’s been off the bench since 1999, but in the 1980s, he almost went out of business—and at one point owed the IRS $65,000—because his shop was consistently undercharging for repair jobs, which composed the bulk of the store’s services. Repairs, when properly priced, can be a lifeboat— and even a boon—for independent jewelers, according to Geller. “If you give 10 people your best sales pitch, three or four people will buy, and 70 percent will walk out and buy nothing,” he explains. “But when a jeweler tells a customer what it costs to fix a ring, no matter the price, 9 or 10 out of 10 customers will buy.” Odds rarely get that good in retailing. Here’s how to make sure your store is seizing the opportunities in repairs.

ESTABLISH TRUST Who do you go to when you need to fix a ­family heirloom? The best. That’s what renders the r­epair business “less price-sensitive and more trust-­ sensitive,” says Lemaire. “People are coming in with Grandma’s ring, so they really don’t want to go to the discount jewelry store. They want someone who knows how to fix it.” But that trust is often eroded on first contact, courtesy of a salesperson who’s not trained in the language or logistics of jewelry repair. “Lack of training is a major issue in jewelry stores when it comes to repairs,” says Ross Wesdorp, ­director of sales at Jewel-Craft, one of the largest ­business-to-business repair workshops in the United States. “Stores often don’t train staffers who take in repairs, and that hurts them. If you can tell someone on the spot what has to be done and how much it’s going to cost, that’s so much better than having to call them later and say, ‘You know what? We were wrong about that cost.’ That takes a [toll] on the relationship.”

“People are coming in with Grandma’s ring, so they really don’t want to go to the discount jewelry store. They want someone who knows how to fix it.” “Front-line salespeople are often not bench e­ xperts,” Lemaire adds. “And by having them intake repair, you often leave a lot of money on the table.”

Establishing a relationship with a repair workshop such as JewelCraft, which repairs approximately 10,000 pieces a week in its Erlanger, Ky., facility, makes it easier to be a yes-person. “We have all the fun toys here,” Wesdorp says, detailing the vast array of mechanical and digital machinery under Jewel-Craft’s roof. “We can do those repairs jewelry store owners don’t want to do, and make sure they don’t have to pass on them.”

PUT SALES IN YOUR SERVICE

PRICE IT RIGHT

When it comes to repairs, savvy retailers don’t sell the fix—they sell the restoration. Getting your customers to envision their finished piece, gleaming and reborn, is key to closing service tickets. Geller’s longtime sales approach is a masterstroke in timeless salesmanship. “If a customer says, ‘Wow, $125 is a lot to fix this ring,’ you say, ‘I know you think sizing this ring is simple, but we’re going to do an excellent job with that repair; we’re going to check and tighten every stone, guarantee our work for a year, and refinish the entire piece to make it look like the day your husband gave it to you. My jeweler’s been doing this for 30 years. You do want that kind of expertise, don’t you?’ ”

So, what’s the correct price for a repair job? The short answer is an amount that mathematically factors in costs and leaves you with profit. The most financially successful jewelers that Lemaire has met in his many bench workshops “have all adopted Geller’s Blue Book pricing structure,” he says. “It’s a pricey book [$399], but it pays for itself very quickly.” Geller initially compiled the book of listings, which he says he updates “every couple of years,” to save his own business—and now selling the book is his main gig (along with advising jewelers on money matters and QuickBooks accounting software). “Jewelers don’t know how much to charge because they don’t understand how much repairs cost,” he says. And both he and Lemaire say those costs far exceed materials and labor. “A lot of jewelers are very aware of the $30 piece of stock they’re putting into a ring, and they charge for that,” Lemaire says. “But they’re forgetting about the $60,000 a year they pay their jewelers, and the light bill, and the store insurance.” And let go of the worry that you’ll lose business by pricing fairly, Geller says. “If there’s trust between you and the customer, they’ll almost always pay what you ask for.”

—Jason Lemaire, Stuller

SAY YES Bench jewelers can be picky about what they will and won’t fix. And obviously, it’s not possible to fix every piece. But jewelry stores raking in revenue off repair work make it a policy to say yes to almost all jobs. “Jewelers pass on a lot of things,” Wesdorp says. “Many don’t work on sterling silver, or won’t work on anything they didn’t sell themselves. But if you send someone away who came to get jewelry ­repaired, they’re not going to buy jewelry with you the next time they’re in the market for something.”


M A L LS OF AMERICA

WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY 10250 Santa Monica Blvd. Los Angeles

JCK’S ONGOING SERIES ON THE SHOPPING CENTERS FINDING S U C C E S S A M I D A N E V E R - C H A N G I N G R E TA I L L A N D S C A P E

IN A TOWN WHERE FACE-LIFTS ARE DE RIGUEUR, WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY GOT A BILLIONDOLLAR VERSION. IT’S MORE THAN READY FOR ITS CLOSE-UP. by Chris Willman THE MA XIM “IF it ain’t broke, don’t fix it” has a corollary so obvious it rarely needs to be articulated: If it ain’t broke, don’t spend a billion dollars fixing it. So you might raise an eyebrow at Westfield’s recent $1.1 billion makeover of its flagship mall in Century City, which had hardly become deserted (unlike its soon-to-be-shuttered L.A. neighbor, the beleaguered Westside Pavilion). Westfield Century City had already received a $160 million renovation in the 2000s. And from its very beginning, in 1964, it was an open-air mall, anticipating the urge that seemingly every other mall would feel, come the 21st century, to tear the roof off the sucker. But in the late 2010s, there’s a different conventional wisdom in the mall world: Gut it, or get ghosted. The amount of thought that went into the makeover was commensurate with the dollars, all aimed at addressing the dilemma facing any modern L.A. mall operator: how to keep up with the Carusos—that is, the Grove and other popular outdoor shopping complexes developed by impresario Rick Caruso. “This is the first time another mall operator in Los Angeles has been able to meet that very, very high bar,” says Peter Lynch, a retail expert at advisory firm A&G Realty Partners. The Grove and its cousin, the Americana at Brand, were built from the ground up as town-square experiences, like Disneyland’s Main Street USA. Westfield Century City, on the other hand, is not a mall pretending to be a nostalgic small town. The goal, clearly, was to go for full-scale modernism while achieving the kind of cozy tranquility that makes you feel you could spend a few hours reading a book on a swinging couch, working on a laptop in what has to be the world’s most natural wood–filled food court, or communing with friends over the fire pit, in between—incidentally!—visits to some of the world’s choosiest and most exclusive retailers. The unique space is largely the work of renowned designer Kelly Wearstler, who collaborated with OJB Landscape Architecture and Westfield’s design

“Having only real materials gives the spaces a sense of texture and permanence.” —Kelly Wearstler

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY (2); MARION BRENNER/COURTESY OJB LANDSCAPE ARCHITECTURE (2)

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OJB Landscape Architecture has also designed outdoor spaces such as Houston’s Levy Park, L.A.’s Playa Vista Central Park, and the Park at Lakeshore East in Chicago.

team. Wearstler, whom The New Yorker called “the presiding grande dame of West Coast interior design,” had never worked on a mall before, which she considered a plus in this revamp. “Anything seemed possible, since we weren’t hampered by preexisting ideas of what a shopping center should be. Our intention was to make the mall feel residential,” says Wearstler, whose experience with boutique hotels shines through. The desire to make “the interior spaces feel truly and authentically Californian” meant “lush landscaping and really beautiful artisanal materials as well as real materials, such as stone and wood. It speaks of quality, simplicity, and the fact that people are meant to inhabit these spaces.” The remarkably spacious social corridors feel like an endless series of luxurious but inviting hotel lobbies, filled with wooden modernist chairs, native plants, and grassy knolls. You could almost imagine that high-end commerce came second, were it not for the 1.3 million square feet of retail generating more than $1.25 billion in annual sales. It’s a lovely illusion anyway, with the type A hustle of the shopping experience wrapped up in a curiously relaxing type B feel. Zara, meet Zen bliss. Is this a luxury mall—Rodeo Drive (Slightly) West, if you will—or a populist city center? Depends on whom you ask.

“There are only so many places in the United States that you can do what they did in Century City because the demographics are so unusual,” says Lynch. (He cites Orange County, California’s South Coast Plaza and the Mall at Short Hills in New Jersey among the rare other locations that can afford to reinvent and attract the toniest retailers.) But Westfield is eager to tout the all-are-welcome angle. “The high, the low—there’s something for everybody,” says Louis Schillace, Westfield’s senior general manager. “From the Gap and American Eagle and stores you expect in every shopping center to the unique things such as Compartés chocolates, the representation of the brands here represents the diversity of Los Angeles.” He has a point: Amid the various indie or upscale restaurateurs providing singular experiences, Westfield Century City does have a fairly handsome Chick-fil-A. What’s really unusual is the number of online-focused retailers, such as Warby Parker and Bonobos, here in the brick-and-mortar flesh. Even Amazon operates a physical bookstore in Century City. Then there are the high-end brands that typically have few or zero storefronts of their own: Take Breitling, which has set up shop on a luxurious curve smack in between Tiffany & Co. and Rolex. “Being the only Breitling Boutique in Southern California, this location sees visitors that are seeking out a visit to a Breitling specifically and have researched the location online prior to their visit,” says Thierry Prissert, president of Breitling USA. “However, we also benefit with visitors that might be stopping by the Apple Store and see the boutique and stop in.” (Even if it’s the rarefied brand of shopper for whom “Breitling” and “impulse buy” occur in the same sentence.) Lest the teakwood chairs and native California fauna accents make the mall seem too Edenic, there’s no shortage of tech. Raise your chin above the natural materials and you’ll see a pair of 100-foot-long digital billboards, like something out of Times Square, advertising Kim Kardashian’s pop-up shop. The technological advances start in the parking lot, where you can sign up for an app that will recognize your license plate and open the gate, or reserve a certain spot in advance; you can also text the valet to deliver your car to the opposite end of the mall from where you left it. “We know how important it is in Los Angeles to have a great parking experience,” says Schillace, in what may count as a local understatement. That may be the only catch: You do have to leave at the end of the day, since years ago, locals managed to nix the condo tower once planned to loom over the mall. Westfield is, in its artisanal/billion-dollar way, weirdly homey, but you still have to go home. Fortunately, there are myriad takeout options at Eataly, the Manhattan-born Italian food mall-within-a-mall that many consider Century City’s real marquee attraction. “Anybody that’s a foodie or loves authentic Italian food and experience would fully understand when they go in that place how remarkable it is,” says Eataly’s biggest fan, Lynch, the retail consultant, his mouth almost audibly watering over the phone. As Gershwin might have said: ’S wonderful. ’S marvelous. ’S definitely not Sbarro.


THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

JCKONLINE.COM

AISLE FILE

EXPERTS SHARE SECRETS TO YEARS OF HAPPY MARRIAGER E L AT E D S A L E S

WITH THESE HANDS 20 STUNNING RINGS, FROM OLD-WORLD ROSE CUTS TO SPIKY MODERN SHIELDS

MODERN BRIDAL


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BRIDAL Cover Look

JCKONLINE.COM

18k white gold Modernist necklace with 1.2 cts. t.w. diamonds and 0.9 ct. t.w. sapphires; $7,235; Ralph Masri; 961-15-66538; ralphmasri.com

18k white gold ring with 7.01 cts. t.w. diamonds; $30,000; Picchiotti; 855-570-9900; picchiotti.it

MODERN BRIDAL

18k fair trade white gold Arc en Ciel collar with 0.52 ct. t.w. created diamonds and 9.25 cts. t.w. topaz; $7,600; Atelier Swarovski Fine Jewelry by Paige Novick; 212601-2568; atelier swarovski.com

We’ve gathered 20 rings, from ­old-world rose cuts to spiky modern shields, in “Digital Assets” (page 100); then, experts share secrets to years of happy marriagerelated sales in “Before You Go on Your Marry Way…” (page 106).

18k white gold Small Bliss eternity band with 2.45 cts. t.w. diamonds; $9,600; Suzanne Kalan; 818-885-6400; suzannekalan.com

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOEL STANS Prop Stylist: ASTRID CHASTKA/HELLO ARTISTS Jewelry Editor: RIMA SUQI SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

MORE: Joy Skinny necklace in white gold with 5.5 cts. t.w. diamonds; $32,500; Messika; contact@messika. com; messika.com


“We continue to partner with Sylvie Collection based on their exceptional quality and assortment “Sylvie’s style is unmatched; sheofisrings. always up to Sylvie’sdate styleon is unmatched; she is always to date on what’s trending and inupstyle in the what’s trending and in style in the bridal industry. Our bridal industry. Our expectations are always expectations are always exceeded…” – Josephs Jewelers

exceeded…”

– Josephs Jewelers

“Not only is the jewelry itself beautiful and high-quality, but also the customer service we receive at Sylvie is refreshing to sell a toproduct that lives just“It’s wonderful. It’s refreshing sell a product that up to its name and standard and lives up to its name and standard and continues to be lovedcontinues and admired Baribaultby Jewelers to by becustomers.” loved and –admired

customers.”

– Baribault Jewelers

“Sylvie’s rings are of the utmost quality; I strongly believe in this product and the repsare who worktosowork hard with and are so “Thesales rings easy when great atto what they do. The rings are easy to it comes custom mountings, and work with when it comes to custom allmountings, changes can be made not only and all changes can be made easily but easily also in timely ” not only buta also in amanner. timely manner.” – Leo Alfred Jewelers

– Leo Alfred Jewelers

by a woman, for a woman

800.992.3426

| sylviecollection.com


DIGITAL 1 ASSETS 4

2

3

5

ANCIENT AESTHETIC


FLOWER POWER

Digital art by Alfredo Ceballos /

(From top) Diamond ring in 18k white gold, $14,850, Picchiotti, 855570-9900, picchiotti.it; Rose Orchard ring with lab-grown citrine, sapphires, amethysts, and diamonds in 18k rose gold vermeil, $1,380, Anabela Chan, 44-207287-5841, anabela chan.com; Lourmarin diamond ring in platinum, $26,500, Ashley Zhang, adeshieldszhang@gmail. com, ashleyzhangjewelry. com; diamond ring in 18k rose and white gold, $3,500, Yeprem, 96-1265-566, yepremjewellery. com; Hail Storm diamond band in 18k yellow and black gold, $3,450, Sorellina, 646-745-6831, sorellinanewyork.com

By Randi Molofsky

L E T Y O U R F I N G E R S D O T H E TA L K I N G A N D E X P R E S S Y O U R S E L F W I T H T H E S E I N S A N E LY S T Y L I S H ,

(Opposite, from top) Lavish rose-cut diamond ring in 18k yellow gold and platinum, $5,160, NikollĂŤ Radi, instagram. com/nikolleradi; cognac diamond solitaire in 22k yellow gold, $3,332, Rosanne Pugliese, 718-6246546, rosannepugliese. com; tapered Hex Shield diamond ring in 18k yellow gold, $5,470, Jo Hayes Ward, 44-790352-1427, johayesward. com; Old World Midnight Crivelli stacking band with diamonds and sapphires in blackened sterling silver and 14k yellow gold, $790, Armenta, 832-4869500, armentacollection. com; ring with fancy black diamond in palladium, $8,100, Todd Reed, 303442-6280, toddreed.com

S T U N N I N G L Y D E T A I L E D E N G A G E M E N T, W E D D I N G , O R ( H E C K , W H Y N O T ? ) E V E R Y D A Y R I N G S

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(Clockwise from top) Rose-cut shield diamond ring in blackened 18k gold with diamonds, $13,650, Jemma Wynne, sales@jemmawynne. com, jemmawynne. com; geometric diamond Crown ring in 14k yellow gold, $3,000, Jennie Kwon, 213-221-7556, jenniekwondesigns.com; shield-cut diamond ring in 14k yellow gold, price on request, ZoĂŤ Chicco, 213-489-1226, zoechicco. com; Long White Shield diamond ring in 14k yellow gold, $8,135, Rebecca Overmann, 415-466-2992, rebeccaovermann.com; Geo Princess diamond ring in 18k yellow gold, $16,000, Brooke Gregson, 310-745-9659, brookegregson.com

SHIELD CUTS


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104 (Clockwise from top) Tiara ring with rock crystal and pink sapphires in 18k yellow gold, $3,885, ARK, 646-745-6831, arkfinejewelry.com; Nomad diamond and opal eye ring in 14k yellow gold, $1,525, Michelle Fantaci, 866-301-MUSE, michellefantaci.com; diamond solitaire and diamond bands in 14k gold (sold separately), $6,075 as shown, Anna Sheffield, info@anna sheffield.com, anna sheffield.com; Phoenix diamond ring in 14k gold, $2,585, Ila, 713-7802828, ilacollection.com; Demi Feu diamond ring in 18k rose gold, $7,160, Fiat Lux, 415-748-2471, fiatluxsf.com

CROWN JEWELS


The Bridal Collection

MASTOLONI

The Most Beautiful Pearls In The World â„¢ mastoloni.com 800.347.3275


BEFORE YOU GO ON YOUR MARRY WAY… 106

THE WEDDING JEWELRY BIZ IS ABOUT SO MUCH MORE THAN SELLING CASE UPON CASE OF DIAMOND SOLITAIRES

Roslyn collection customizable rings in 18k gold and platinum; $2,100– $2,600 (without center stones); Tiny Jewel Box

By Amy Elliott

E

N G AG E M E N T R I N G S A N D wedding bands are the bread and butter of the jewelry industry, but ­ are you satisfying the tastes of today’s consumer? Top experts in the bridal category say it’s time to mix things up. We’ve gathered advice from flourishing designers, in-the-know fashion editors, retailers who are doing everything right, and other wedding pros— all of whom have valuable insights into how couples think, shop, and make decisions. Given the competitive and fast-moving nature of the marketplace, it’s essential to perfect your multi­ tasking skills, customer outreach, and social media savvy. Ready, set, sell!


BEFORE YOU GO ON YOUR MARRY WAY…

108

MONICA ELIAS

JIM ROSENHEIM

CEO / EXECUTIVE PRODUCER ELIAS WORLD MEDIA

OWNER, TINY JEWEL BOX

NEW YORK CITY “Being current and present in all facets of business, design, ­marketing, and media dictates the success of a bridal jewelry brand. I also think it comes down to thoughtfulness when ­connecting and ­communicating with ­consumers. We often see brands ­measuring dollars spent against ­actual sales. In today’s market, it’s about awareness, and the more ­visibility you have, the more ­consumers will get to know your brand. The programs, content, and activations you invest in to reach them will say a lot about who you are and may influence how consumers shop.”

WASHINGTON, D.C. “There are only so many ways to set a stone in an engagement ring, but I ­believe we have found an answer to this younger generation of brides who desire individuality in their rings. I think that when they ask for vintage, what they really mean is unique. So about a year and a half ago, we created the Roslyn collection, a series that encompassed Edwardian- and Art Deco–­inspired details. Today, when our clients ask for vintage, they frequently opt for Roslyn rings because they allow the client to choose whatever metal, details, and center gem they desire to create a custom look.”

NATALIE FEANNY BERGER

BETH CHAPMAN OWNER / FASHION STYLIST THE WHITE DRESS BY THE SHORE CLINTON, CONN. “It’s critical to identify your target client. And providing her with an exceptional retail experience in your store is key. This actually starts before a bride even makes an appointment with us through her interaction with us via email, phone, or social media. In store, it’s important for the ­environment to delight all five senses. We pay attention not only to our ­decor, but also to how the store smells, the music that we play, and we serve our tea and coffee in vintage t­ eacups. Our goal is to create a ­memory when she shops with us.”

DIAMOND BUYER J.R. DUNN JEWELERS LIGHTHOUSE POINT, FLA. “We are expanding our bridal inventory to include more slender engagement rings, which are having a moment, as they pair with any type of wedding band or ring stack and seem to better express the modern bride’s desire for a polished look. I also feel that having sales associates who are prepared to compete with the online bridal marketplace is key. The conversation is going to happen, and we need to be consuming the same content as our customers.” Baguette ring with 0.45 ct. t.w. diamonds in 18k yellow gold; $1,095; Trésor Collection; info@tresorcollection.com; tresorcollection.com

JULIE THOM OWNER, VON BARGEN’S JEWELRY HANOVER, VT. “Our biggest drivers of bridal ­business are word of mouth and ­digital marketing. We are also w ­ atching the interests of our clients to be sure we have an offering that speaks to their values and design preferences while maintaining our own priorities for the finest-­quality diamonds and ring styles. For us, this has meant introducing more non-classic engagement ring styles, more fancy-shape diamonds, and vintage-cut estate diamonds.”

Geometric diamond ring with 4.54 cts. t.w. translucent green, cloudy white, and yellow-orange rose-cut diamonds in recycled 18k gold; $7,740; Melissa Joy Manning; sales@ melissajoymanning. com; melissajoy manning.com

RACHEL LEONARD EDITORIAL DIRECTOR THE BRIDAL COUNCIL NEW YORK CITY “In my 30 years in the bridal industry, the brands that have succeeded all have a specific point of view; you can ­recognize the work without looking at the label. Yet they are always evolving. They’re able to adapt to the ­marketplace while staying true to their core vision. Also, the s­ uccessful companies seem to have great working partnerships within. Things work well if the designer only has to think about design and the business partner is focused on sales.” Elite collection Diana ring in 18k white gold with 0.56 ct. t.w. round brilliant diamonds; $4,450 (without center stone); John Atencio; 720-445-5292; johnatencio.com


Endless POSSIBILITIES ever&ever® is a comprehensive bridal program featuring prototype samples where you can personalize each ring to match your customer’s story and style. ever&ever® provides endless options for your customers without the investment of live inventory. Learn more at Stuller.com/everandever. Stuller.com/everandever

800 877 7777


BEFORE YOU GO ON YOUR MARRY WAY…

110

AMY SHEY JACOBS FOUNDER / CREATIVE DIRECTOR CHANDELIER EVENTS NEW YORK CITY “Today’s couples are very savvy and have a lot of inspiration at their fingertips. They value experience, solid advice and options, and quick answers. They expect their vendors to have a strong digital profile—­being active on Instagram has been a huge factor in attracting clients and ­winning their business. ­Organization, tech-savviness, and the ability to recognize and ­understand current trends are key. I also suggest following your ­competition; you need to see what your customers are seeing in order to speak their language. And did I mention quick answers? This cannot be overestimated.”

Coastal Crescent collection rings in 14k gold; $1,490–$2,390 (without center stones); Tacori; 800-421-9844; tacori.com

NAN PALMER OWNER / MANAGING DIRECTOR FACETS JEWELRY CONSULTING

JADE TRAU JEWELRY DESIGNER NEW YORK CITY “Keep it simple. The smallest change can make the biggest difference in a finished design. And listen to your clients—the good, the bad, and the ugly. That’s how you learn what works and what doesn’t work. Learn to be nimble and pivot.”

Astor diamond engagement ring and band in 18k white gold; price on request; Forevermark by Jade Trau; info@jadetrau.com; jadetrau.com

DENVER “Whether you’re a single-channel or ­omnichannel brand, a luxury or an emerging designer, you need to have the ability to manage custom requests. Because today’s consumer wants something that cannot be found on a pad of ring settings in a jewelry case. The more ­established bridal jewelry brands should ­reconsider their collections in this context, offer a variety of attractive price points— driving unit sales rather than dollar sales will be the most profitable in bridal—and invest in technology that allows customers to preview collections online before they come in to shop.”

SHELLEY BROWN FASHION AND BEAUTY EDITOR THE KNOT NEW YORK CITY “Right now, the most successful ­bridal jewelry brands are the ones that speak to consumers through a strong social media presence. The rising popularity of ­colorful ­center stones, yellow and rose gold, ­fancy-shape diamonds, vintage-­inspired settings, and even ­imperfect, raw diamonds speaks to the ­millennial bride’s desire to stand out. The brands that adapt to this by offering nontraditional ­designs and c­ ustomization will thrive. The brands that are less f­ lexible— for ­example, sticking to chunkier platinum settings with round-cut diamonds only—will miss out.”

Platinum ring with 2.5 ct. padparadscha sapphire and 0.45 cts. t.w. diamonds; $15,995; Coast Diamond; 800-523-5937; coastdiamond.com

SALLY MORRISON CHIEF MARKETING OFFICER, LIGHTBOX NEW YORK CITY “The greatest hindrance to success in the bridal category is resistance to change. It’s no longer possible to live by the same playbook if we want to engage this new generation of ­customers. We need to take our cues from other categories—fashion, accessories, cosmetics—that allow consumers to play with the brand, even if they’re not in the market for an immediate purchase. This means delivering plenty of ­interesting, sticky content that engages the customer while she’s browsing and learning so she keeps coming back…hopefully until she’s ready to shop.”


The Jewelry Industry’s

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February 3 – 9, 2019

JW MARRIOTT TUCSON S TA R R PA S S R E S O R T & S PA

E X P E R I E N C E C U R A T E D N E T W O R K I N G E V E N T S A L O N G S I D E A P R O D U C T I V E J E W E L R Y B U Y I N G E V E N T , C A R E F U L LY D E S I G N E D T O I N S P I R E , E X C I T E A N D C O N N E C T B U Y E R S , D E S I G N E R S A N D S U P P L I E R S O F F I N I S H E D J E W E L R Y, TECHNOLOGY AND LOOSE GEMSTONES. OPEN TO ALL QUALIFIED JEWELRY PROFESSIONALS.

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the industry authority

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

THE ESSENTIAL JEWELRY GUIDE

the vault 3D WAY The designer was keenly

PINK PALETTE The earrings boast 6.8 cts.

aware of how the geometry of each element influenced the overall design of the earrings. “The angle at which we set each gem was carefully calculated to maximize its brilliance,” she notes, “but also to accentuate the three-dimensional, undulating nature of the pieces.”

t.w. colorless diamonds, 1.45 cts. t.w. fancy colored diamonds, 10.46 cts. t.w. pink sapphires, 0.44 ct. t.w. rubies, and 1.68 cts. t.w. rhodolites set in 18k yellow gold.

WAX PLAN Chao personally hand-carved and sculpted the wax models for the earrings, a process she considers integral to her work. “I’m able to structure the piece in detail from every angle using wax, giving it a rich depth that a sketch could never achieve,” she says. “My design process is laborious, yet extremely rewarding.”

ROSÉ ALL DAY PINK ISN’T A color most people associate with leaves. But Cindy Chao’s Pink Sapphire ­Foliage earrings feel ­wholly organic, rosy patina and all. The design’s naturalism was largely achieved through artistic stone-setting—the gems were “arranged in a way for their color combination to further highlight the texture of the leaves,” explains the Hong Kong–based Taiwanese designer. Conjuring exquisite detail is all in a day’s work for Chao. “My creative ­philosophy is that every piece of fine jewelry should be a miniature work of art.” —EMILI VESILIND JCKONLINE.COM


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PLATINUM

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Platinum Boomerang Lock on 22-inch platinum chain; $3,152

Platinum All Stone Starlock with diamonds on 16-inch platinum chain; $14,150; Marla Aaron; info@ marlaaaron.com; marlaaaron.com

HOT STOCK TIP CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

LOVE LOCKS “Emotional hardware” is how fine jewelry designer Marla Aaron has described her collection in the past. And considering the ­industrial nature of her brand’s core style—an oval lock that elevates a hardware store carabiner to fine jewelry—the description fits. The creative evolution of Aaron’s locks now includes a series of gorgeous platinum locks with chains. The designer says she likes working with the white metal because of its weightiness and steely color, qualities that “make the word precious ­tangible, even on the smallest scale,” she explains. “That’s why I love platinum. It’s like—boom! This is jewelry.” —EMILI VESILIND

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

HOLY ADORNMENT!

Platinum Hatshepsut Lock with diamonds on 16-inch handmade platinum biker chain; $32,750

Batman was the pop culture inspiration behind this bold men’s ring from Swiss jewelry atelier Furrer Jacot. The aerodynamic design, also available in a diamond-studded version, “signifies the bat’s silent but precise gliding through space and time,” says Zoe Grillo, client relations manager for the brand, adding that the just-released jewels “are already a favorite among comic fans.” —EV Platinum Twisted Lock on 22-inch platinum chain; $4,803

Ring made with 25.44 grams of platinum; $9,594; furrer-jacot.com

NEW FEATHERSTONE FINE JEWELRY DESIGNS! SEE jckonline.com/topics/platinum FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM


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14k yellow gold Sparkle bar necklace with 0.3 cts. t.w. diamonds on 18-inch chain; $2,190 14k yellow gold Sparkler pendant necklace on 18-inch chain with 0.3 ct. t.w. diamonds; $1,903; E.L. Designs; info@eldesigns. com; eldesigns.com

Sparkler earrings with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds; $2,618

14k yellow gold Signature diamond bracelet with 0.6 ct. t.w. diamonds; $3,993

CAN’T-MISS COLLECTION

SPARKLE AND CHARM We can’t imagine anything more sparkly than a stretch of neatly aligned diamonds. And Cambridge, N.Y.– based fine jewelry manufacturer E.L. Designs clearly agrees. The binding design element in the brand’s latest collection is a bar shape that’s channel-set with diamonds; it’s aptly called the Sparkle collection. The five-piece series includes a bangle bracelet adorned with a row of 30 diamonds, two simple and chic bar necklaces, a tiny stud bar earring, and a bolder dangling earring. “We understand the value that design excellence and quality can make to the end customer,” says Peter Tonjes, owner and president of E.L. Designs, “and also to the jeweler who wants high turns.”

—EMILI VESILIND

DAGGER SWAGGER Melissa Kaye’s Aria Dagger ­earring—a slash of 18k yellow gold lined with colorless diamonds—has been such a strong seller for the New York City–based brand that Kaye ­recently debuted the dramatic, ­teardrop-shape Aria Jane earring, which she describes as “the Dagger earring and its mirror image combined and inverted.” If only every evolution were this elegant. —EV

HOW MUCH JEWELRY CAN YOU POSSIBLY SEE IN AN HOUR? SEE jckonline.com/topics/diamonds FOR THAT AND MORE. JCKONLINE.COM

HOT STOCK TIP

18k yellow gold earrings with 3.75 cts. t.w. diamonds; $19,250; melissakayejewelry.com

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018


THE INDUSTRY AUTHORITY STAY CONNECTED WITH

JCKONLINE.COM

The industry’s go-to online source for breaking news and the consumer-led style trends that shape the jewelry industry. JCKonline.com connects the industry influencers who drive the jewelry business forward.

JCKONLINE.COM


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SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

THE GLOBAL GUIDE TO MARKETS

Show biz THE FLORIDA PROJECT

The JIS October show makes its triumphant return to Miami Beach Oct. 19–22 BY VICTORIA GOMELSKY

B

ARRING A FORCE majeure, such as last year’s Hurricane Irma, Reed Exhibitions’ Jewelers International Showcase (JIS) October will return to its longtime home at the Miami Beach Convention Center on Oct. 19, with a raft of buyer-focused additions, updates, and enhancements. “Reed has invested millions of dollars in the JIS brand across the board, from signage to amenities, with the goal of all those components and partnerships that got developed

coming together for the first time this October,” says Jordan Tuchband, industry vice president of JIS Events. In an unprecedented step, JIS will take over the entire convention center, fresh from its $620 million renovation. The bigger space will allow the four-day show to co-locate with a­ nother Florida mainstay, the Centurion South Beach show, which is bringing nearly 100 luxury brands, including a new p ­ avilion of Forevermark suppliers, to the event. JCKONLINE.COM

Necklace with 26.48 ct. pear-shape emerald, 53.61 cts. t.w. onyx, and 16.74 cts. t.w. diamonds in 18k white gold; $375,320; Siera; 213-623-6370; sierajewelry.com

­ ttendees will be able to shop both A shows with one badge, “making it easier for everybody,” Tuchband says. On top of Centurion’s arrival, “the Italian Pavilion is 50 percent larger than last year,” Tuchband continues. “The upscale Galleria Pavilion is 40 percent larger, and there’s been an ­increase in new companies and ­returning companies that had stopped doing the show. There are going to literally be hundreds of brands that will be new compared to a year ago.” Another neighborhood making its debut in October is the Equipment, Technology, and Services Pavilion, which is based on the ETS section at JCK Las Vegas and features some 25 exhibitors marketing everything from software to lasers to safes. “It’s a mixture of some new vendors and some that were already at the show but were randomly scattered,” Tuchband says. Overall, JIS October, the ­second-largest jewelry show in North America after JCK Las Vegas, is poised to be one of the year’s blockbuster events, Tuchband says. Between longtime exhibitors such as Royal Chain (currently celebrating its 40th anniversary), Shy Creation, and Siera Jewelry and a host of n ­ ewcomers— including Ippolita, Le Vian, and Shinola—that are showing under the banner of Miami-based Demir Group International, a sales and marketing agency specializing in the Caribbean and duty-free markets, the show “is worth checking out,” he adds. That’s putting it mildly!


show biz s

BEST IN SHOW OW

Royal Treasurer necklace with molded glass, emerald, and 22k gold; $14,285; Anand Shah; 91-982-189-9008; Instagram: @anand_ shah_golden_jewels

MUMBAI CALLING The 35th india international Jewellery show was bigger and blingier than ever BY PREETA AGARWAL

F

RESH FROM AN expansion highlighted by a new 116,000-squarefoot exhibition area, the 35th annual India International Jewellery Show (IIJS), held Aug. 8–13 at the Bombay Exhibition Centre in Mumbai, saw an increase in both traffic and sales, suggesting a positive outlook for the upcoming Indian festive season. The show, organized by India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC), included a new invite-only “Prelude to IIJS” preview day on Aug. 8 followed by an evening of fashion showcasing the jewels of 15 couture manufacturers. However, the real draw was the new exhibition area, Hall 7A, complete with 800 extra booths.

“All the top diamond and gold manufacturers are in Hall 7…with extravagantly constructed booths, a spacious look, and quality buyers,” said Priyanshu Shah, director of A’Star Jewellery. “There is a big expansion phase in the Indian jewelry industry.” IIJS, home to some 1,300 exhibitors spanning 2,500 booths, drew more than 40,000 visitors from across India, up 14 percent from 2017. GJEPC vice chairman Colin Shah called the show a reflection of “the vibrancy in the market at present. With the Indian economy performing well, there is a strong hope that the industry is entering a period of prosperity.” On the show floor, the unspoken theme of the fair was “the modern woman.” At booths big and small, collections appealed to self-purchasing women with the use of pink gemstones and rose gold. Ghanshyam Dholakia, founder and managing director of Hari Krishna Exports Pvt. Ltd., said the company’s new Honour collection of jewelry (“to honor a woman”) was “very well received by retailers.” Besides always-in-demand gold jewels, bridal sets and jewels set with colored stones such as morganite, coral, and turquoise were among the show’s standouts. Newer materials like Italian blown glass in necklaces by designer Anand Shah and pastel shades of leather in contemporary bangles at Oro also garnered an enthusiastic response. Hot topics at the fair included De Beers’ new Lightbox lab-grown diamond jewelry subsidiary and recent changes to the FTC’s Jewelry Guides. “The [Diamond Producers Association] has always been clear that more fair and transparent practices need to be adopted by synthetic diamond producers,” said DPA’s CEO, Jean-Marc Lieberherr. “The FTC guidelines…leave a lot of space for ambiguity for marketers.” JCKONLINE.COM

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EQUIPMENT, SUPPLIES & TECHNOLOGY

TOOL TIME

“Typically, technology is really expensive, but you can get a chatbot up and running with very little investment.” —Melissa Bennett

“They’re literally determining how to respond, and they can also learn,” Bennett says.

CHATBOTS NEED HUMANS

LOOK WHO’S TALKING Are chatbots the best way to service your clients online?

W

PANUWAT PHIMPHA/SHUTTERSTOCK

BY EMILI VESILIND

E OFTEN ENCOUNTER chatbots—the catchall name for digital messaging software that interprets natural language (how we talk in real life) and responds with helpful information—as little boxes that pop up on our computer screens when we’ve dawdled too long on a sweater online. Usually chatbots present themselves as a know-it-all avatar, be it a bespectacled owl or a sanguine-looking sloth, and include a text box in which shoppers can type and receive messages. Their

primary function is to answer run-of-the-mill questions and provide basic information for a website’s users. Last December, a study by Facebook revealed that some 2 billion messages are sent between people and businesses monthly. And a growing number of those messages include tête-à-têtes with chatbots. The ubiquity of chatbots has a lot to do with the accessibility of the software. “Typically, technology is really expensive, but you can get a chatbot up and running with very little investment,” says Melissa ­Bennett, partner and technology director at Los Angeles– based creative and technology company Heat Waves. But should you? In a 2018 survey of 3,000 consumers by analytics software firm Calabrio, 79 percent of respondents said interacting with a human— JCKONLINE.COM

instead of a chatbot or digital self-service channel—is an important aspect of good customer service. However, 54 percent of those surveyed said they don’t think companies are wasting their money by investing in technology designed to improve customer experience. If you’re thinking of introducing a chatbot on your website, keep these realities and recommendations in mind:

NOT ALL CHATBOTS ARE SMART Chatbots vary in sophistication. Basic chatbots are preprogrammed to recognize specific questions and issues that shoppers type in, then respond with prescripted messages, while more sophisticated chatbots are powered by artificial intelligence (AI). The latter are doing so-called natural language processing.

Even if you have a chatbot responding to basic inquiries, you still need a system that alerts an actual human if a shopper becomes exasperated with the ’bot. As a retailer, you have to be reachable. Nearly three-quarters of respondents in the Calabrio study said they are “more loyal to a business that provides them with the option to speak to a human than those that only support customer service through digital or self-service channels.”

CHATBOTS CAN LOWER OVERHEAD Integrating a chatbot on your site means spending time and money; Bennett suggests working with a software engineer on this. But once operational, chatbots can be valuable tools for small-­ business owners because they cut costs over time. “A chatbot can siphon off some of the overall customer-service work and route certain messages to you online,” Bennett says. “It’s something I recommend all my clients explore, whether their business is big or small.”


Tool Time

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SUPPLY IN DEMAND

FORMLABS CERAMIC RESIN 1 L

The Ticwatch E smartwatch has a battery life of up to 48 hours.

WHO, WHAT, WEARABLE

TICWATCH E Mobvoi, the Beijing-based technology startup that makes the lightweight, low-cost Ticwatch smartwatches, specializes in products that propel human/­ machine i­nteraction using artificial intelligence. The Ticwatch range ­personifies the c­ ompany’s drive to create accessibly priced items that can compete with ­luxury tech in the functionality department. We demo-ed the Ticwatch E ­(Express), a ­full-featured smartwatch that can track fitness and steps, monitor heartbeat and sleep, and more. —EV What we liked: Mobvoi is a leader in voice-recognition technology, and the Ticwatch E runs the voice-enabled Google Assistant seamlessly. You also have instant access to all the apps in the Google Play ecosystem, including the excellent Google Fit. The solid, built-in GPS is another standout feature. What we didn’t like: It’s a rubber watch with great fitness functions that’s splash-proof but not waterproof—so, alas, you can’t swim with it. Best feature: The device is impressively lightweight, and its aesthetics feel youthful and stylishly casual. The brand recently released a collection of straps, the World Cup Series, designed with brightly colored stripes that pay homage to the national flags of major pro soccer teams. This isn’t your dad’s smartwatch—but it also doesn’t feel too cool for school. ($159.99; mobvoi.com)

THE SKINNY ON INSTAGRAM’S NEW QUESTIONS STICKER! SEE jckonline.com/topics/technology FOR THAT AND MORE.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

Formlabs, maker of cutting-edge desktop 3D printers, has invented and produced an innovative ceramic resin that jewelers can use to print castable parts with a stonelike finish—with the option of firing them to create a fully ceramic piece. The material was formulated in order to render designs in ultrafine detail. At this year’s JCK Las Vegas, the company showcased a jewelry collection by design studio Nervous System that was 3D-printed using Ceramic Resin 1 L—and its delicate, interconnected pieces depicting a deep-sea glass sponge were impressively detailed. “You can’t make superthin interconnected three-dimensional structures—they can’t be cast,” says Nervous System ­cofounder Jessica Rosenkrantz. “But the green state of the 3D-printing material is strong because it has resin in it, so we can make these super-weird geometries that are superstrong when they’re fired.” ($149; formlabs.com) —EV

APP CHAT

DANGLE FaceCake, a marketing-technology firm that specializes in apps that let you virtually try on fashion and makeup looks, has debuted Dangle, a jewelry try-on app. Dangle boasts tech that allows you to tap on a pair of earrings (from a swipeable menu on the bottom of the screen) to see them jump onto your ears, then sway and shimmy with your real-time movements. The app also offers an ever-evolving menu of celebrity earring looks—so you can digitally demo Hollywood’s most in-demand styles. (Free; facecake.com) —EV

The new Dangle try-on app uses sophisticated augmented-reality technology.

JCKONLINE.COM


PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

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Arch Crown Inc. Midas Chain

50 McDermott Place Bergenfield, NJ 07621 Tel: 877-643-2765 Fax: 201-244-1151 Email: sales@midaschain.com Website: midaschain.com Enhance your 14k gold hoops with our Valentino fringe extensions. Our Butterfly extensions can be used with any post earring to transform your look. The new Midas catalog features these and brand-new sought-after pieces to select from. MSRP: $381

RDI Diamonds Inc.

2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com The Ariel Diamonds® beautifully enhanced diamond line is the best option for you and your customers. This program gives you the ability to offer a bigger diamond … even when the budget just isn’t enough.

460 Hillside Ave. Hillside, NJ 07205 Tel: 800-526-8353 Fax: 973-731-2228 Email: orders@archcrown.com Website: archcrown.com Promote Your Brand Name on Custom Tags & Labels. As a merchandising aid or advertising vehicle, Arch Crown tags and labels communicate your store’s unique identity. Once out of the store, they act as your most cost-effective advertising medium. Order in time for the holiday season. JIS Miami Booth 1649

Dabakarov

62 W. 45th St., Eighth Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-730-1888 Fax: 212-302-5316 Email: info@dabakarov.com Website: dabakarov.com “Exceptional is our standard.”

Sylvie Collection Earstuds USA

5580 LBJ Freeway, Suite 525 Dallas, TX 75240 Tel: 972-458-2076 Fax: 972-458-1412 Email: david@earstudsusa.com Website: earstudsusa.com This stunning, stylish rose gold diamond tennis bracelet has 19.1 cts. t.w. G-H color and si2 clarity diamonds.

JCKONLINE.COM

5200 McDermott Road, Suite 200 Plano, TX 75024 Tel: 800-992-3426 Fax: 212-472-9990 Email: cassie@spectrumdiamonds.com Website: sylviecollection.com This vintage halo ring features a 2 ct. pear center and diamond shank adorned with intricate milgrain detailing and hand engraving (0.47 ct. t.w.). Available in 14k and 18k gold, and platinum. (Ring: Style S1909; matching band: Style BS1909) MSRP: $2,665 (not including center)

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018


PRODUCT

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Gabriel & Co. Tel: 877-ASK-EFFY Website: effyjewelry.com

545 W. 45th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-519-1400 Email: mjgonzalez@gabrielny.com Website: gabrielny.com

Borrowed from the boys. EFFY redefines industrial chic design with this handcrafted, 14k gold, diamond ring. At once a statement piece as well as a relaxed everyday accent, the link design makes this ring an instant classic.

Gabriel & Co.’s unique diamond engagement rings and bridal sets capture the true love and excitement of your journey toward matrimony. They will forever be a symbol of your commitment to your special someone. (Style ER12664R4W44JJ)

Le Vian®

Royal Chain Group

Tel: 877-2LEVIAN/516-466-7200 Fax: 516-466-7201 Email: eddielevian@levian.com Website: levian.com

2 W. 46th St. New York, NY 10036 Tel: 800-622-0960 Fax: 212-730-7616 Email: sales@royalchain.com Website: royalchain.com

EFFY Fine Jewelry

Le Vian® reveals its latest ombré coloration in this Strawberry Gold® Royal Flush Orchid necklace featuring over 14 cts. Cotton Candy Amethyst® and Grape Amethyst™ and 0.88 ct. t.w. Chocolate Diamonds® accenting the necklace.

In celebration of its 40th anniversary, Royal Chain has released a fabulous, special-edition gold collection of new designs. Try these stunning statement rings with MSRPs starting at $670.

Stuller Inc.

Jewelers Mutual Insurance Group

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

24 Jewelers Park Drive Neenah, WI 54956 Tel: 800-558-6411 Fax: 920-725-9401 Email: sales@jminsure.com Website: jewelersmutual.com

Whether it’s a simple solitaire or a fancy basket setting, nothing holds a stone more securely than platinum. Be ready for holiday sales and browse our assortment at Stuller.com/findings.

Businesses like yours have trusted Jewelers Mutual for support since 1913. Contact us to learn how we can help you become safer, more secure, and more successful.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

JCKONLINE.COM


PRODUCT

SHOWCASE Rand & Paseka Mfg. Co. Inc. 10 Hanse Ave. Freeport, NY 11520 Tel: 800-229-0006 Fax: 516-867-0230 Email: sales@randpaseka.com Website: randpaseka.com

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Shy Creation 631 S. Olive St., Suite 900 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-623-8900 Email: info@shycreation.com Website: shycreation.com

Rand & Paseka has the most extensive line of religious jewelry found anywhere, all made in the USA. This beautiful 14k cross with 0.05pts diamonds is available in yellow, white, and rose gold. MSRP: $245

Shy’s latest diamond Eternal eternity bands are set with sparkling diamonds on a comfort-fit gold band. Soft to the touch, they are perfect for everyday to eternity. Call today to become a brand partner.

Andréa Candela

POSH Mommy Jewelry

Tel: 888-314-5998 Email: info@andreacandela.com Website: andreacandela.com Accented with genuine gemstones and diamonds, this Andréa Candela design marries beautifully polished sterling silver with lustrous 18k gold, bringing Old World craftsmanship to today’s fashion-forward woman.

1552 W. Carroll Ave., Suite 207 Chicago, IL 60607 Tel: 877-697-9265 Email: crystal@poshmommyjewelry.com Website: poshmommyjewelry.com POSH Mommy has always been a labor of love, built by mommies for mommies to recognize their strength and heart. Share the entire POSH Mommy line of products in your store, and create long-lasting and stylish memories for your customers.

Herco

Christopher Designs

833 Market St., 10th Floor San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-543-1580/800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699 Email: info@herco.com Website: herco.com

50 W. 47th St., Suite 1507 New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-382-1013 Fax: 212-768-8978 Email: info@crisscut.com Website: christopherdesigns.com

Herco offers a wide variety of 14k and 18k yellow, white, and pink gold jewelry. We also carry many items in 22k and 24k gold, platinum, silver, titanium, palladium, and stainless steel.

Christopher Designs impeccably blends Old World luxury and style with modern technology to create exclusive designs that include our patented Crisscut® and L’Amour Crisscut diamonds. When placed side by side with our competition, the difference is truly clear.

JCKONLINE.COM

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018


PRODUCT

SHOWCASE

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RDI Diamonds Inc. Thorsten Jewelry 404 E. First St., Suite 1204 Long Beach, CA 90802 Tel: 888-209-4757 Email: support@thorstenrings.com Website: thorstenrings.com Back-to-back award-winning ring designs. Break the norm with lava and lapis inlay designs.

2300 W. Ridge Road, Fourth Floor Rochester, NY 14626 Tel: 800-874-8768 Fax: 585-225-0415 Email: arickard@rdidiamonds.com Website: rdidiamonds.com Guaranteed to help you never make a bad inventory buy again! You Me We™ offers complete customization that includes our no-risk 100 percent Sell Thru Guarantee! Customize your solution for your store with four different package options.

JYE Luxury Collection Costar Imports, Inc. Burlingame, CA 94010 Tel: 650-389-6969 Email: info@costarimports.com Website: costarimports.com This engagement ring (Style R12648) with 0.85 ct. t.w. diamonds catches eyes with its unique octagonal halo and is set up to hold a 6 mm round diamond. The band has 0.35 ct. t.w. diamonds. MSRP: Ring $4,200; band $1,650

Nelson Jewellery USA Inc. 631 S. Olive St., Suite 300 Los Angeles, CA 90014 Tel: 213-489-3323 Fax: 213-489-1832 Email: info@nelsonus.com Website: nelsonus.com Nelson’s tradition of creating unique and timelessly elegant fine jewelry continues. The diamond pendant pictured was a finalist in the 2016 Jewelers’ Choice Awards’ Best Price Point Under $500 category.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

101 Utah St., Suite 101 San Francisco, CA 94103 Tel: 415-621-8880 Fax: 415-552-1675 Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Website: jyescorp.com Every piece in the JYE Luxury Collection reflects the brand’s commitment to excellence by combining unique classic and contemporary designs and impeccable workmanship in 18k gold/ platinum along with G/VS+ premium-cut diamonds and fine gems.

Allison-Kaufman Co. 7640 Haskell Ave. Van Nuys, CA 91406 Tel: 800-800-8908 Fax: 818-373-5150 Email: info@allisonkaufman.com Website: allisonkaufman.com Tickle your senses with this dazzling ring from Allison-Kaufman Co.’s new Champagne Bubbles collection, featuring 0.25 ct. t.w. diamonds set in 14k rose gold. Complete the ensemble with matching earrings, necklace, and bangle bracelet.

JCKONLINE.COM


PRODUCT

SHOWCASE E.L. Designs by Ed Levin Studio 52 W. Main St. Cambridge, NY 12816 Tel: 518-677-8595 Fax: 518-677-8597 Email: info@eldesigns.com Website: eldesigns.com Our iconic Signature bracelet and matching earrings are each adorned with thirty 1.75 mm SI H channel-set diamonds. Hand forged in the USA. A true mark of excellence.

ESCAPE 6540 Alliance Dr., Suite 120 Rockwall, TX 75032 Tel: 469-646-9990 Email: contact@escapewatches.com Website: escapewatches.com

Artistry, Ltd. 8272 Lincoln Ave. Skokie, IL 60077 Tel: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208 Email: info@artistrylimited.com Website: artistrylimited.com Artistry’s newest stacking rings are available in 14k rose, white, and yellow gold with amethyst, London blue topaz, rhodolite garnet, and 0.1 ct. t.w. diamonds. MSRP: $630–$640. (Also available with blue topaz.)

Vibhor 590 Fifth Ave., 15th Floor New York, NY 10036 Tel: 212-869-5060 Email: peter@vibhorgems.com Website: vibhorgems.com

ESCAPE offers a full men’s and ladies’ fashion price point watch collection, with stainless steel base and Japanese quartz movements. Elevated features include intricate layered dials, mixed materials, and genuine leather straps. MSRP: $125–$295

Vibhor is a U.S. manufacturer of quality core diamond essentials. We offer a complete turn-key solution, including 18k (nickel-free) rings and other jewelry, in-store training, custom displays, margins, stock-balance privileges, sales incentives, fast shipping, and a five-year warranty.

Hoover & Strong

Stuller Inc.

10700 Trade Road North Chesterfield, VA 23236 Tel: 800-759-9997 Fax: 800-616-9997 Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Website: hooverandstrong.com

302 Rue Louis XIV Lafayette, LA 70508 Tel: 800-877-7777 Fax: 800-444-4741 Email: sales@stuller.com Website: stuller.com

Hoover & Strong has over 650 die-struck bands including hundreds of new classic, fancy, multi-tone, and diamond styles! All bands are Made in the USA with Harmony Recycled Precious Metals. Visit hooverandstrong.com to see all our products.

Stuller’s newest brand of fine jewelry, 302™, features five curated collections and more than 300 different styles. Browse the assortments—Sage, Rule, Rebel, Seeker, and Innocent—at stuller.com/302finejewelry.

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ADVERTISING

INDEX

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AGS Laboratories pg. 45 Website: agslab.com AGTA pg. 41, 69 Website: agta.org Toll-Free: 800-972-1162 Alex Velvet pg. 39 Website: alexvelvetusa.com Email: info@alexvelvetusa.com Phone: 323-255-6900 Allison Kaufman Company pg. 63 Website: allison-kaufman.com Toll-Free: 800-800-8908

EVOCATEUR pg. 70 Website: evocateurstyle.com Phone: 203-820-8786 Gabriel & Co. pg. 107 Website: gabrielny.com Phone: 212-519-1400 GIA pg. Inside Back Cover Website: gia.edu Email: marketing@gia.edu Phone: 760-603-4000 Toll-Free: 800-421-7250

Andréa Candela pg. 43 Website: andreacandela.com Email: info@andreacandela.com

Harmon pg. 36 Website: harmongrp.com Email: rick.arnemann@harmongrp.com Phone: 615-256-3393 Fax: 615-256-3464

Artistry Ltd. pg. 26 Website: artistrylimited.com Email: getinfo@artistrylimited.com Toll-Free: 888-674-3250 Fax: 847-674-3208

Herco pg. 55 Website: herco.com Email: info@herco.com Toll-Free: 800-864-0767 Fax: 415-398-3699

Christopher Designs pg. 96-97 Website: lamourcrisscut.com Toll-Free: 800-955-0970

Hoover & Strong pg. 67 Website: hooverandstrong.com Email: info@hooverandstrong.com Phone: 804-794-3700 Toll-Free: 800-759-9997

Costar Imports pg. 33 Website: costarimports.com Email: info@costarimports.com Toll-Free: 877-7COSTAR Dabakarov pg. 4-5 Website: dabakarov.com Email: info@dabakarov.com Phone: 212-730-1888 Earstuds USA pg. 111 Website: earstudsusa.com Email: sales@earstudsusa.com Toll-Free: 866-327-7883 E.L. Designs pg. 65 Website: edlevinjewelry.com Email: info@edlevinjewelry.com Phone: 518-677-8595 Toll-Free: 800-828-1122 Fax: 518-677-8597 Toll-Free Fax: 888-677-8597 Effy pg. 35 Website: effyjewelry.com Email: inquiries@effyjewelry.com Toll-Free: 855-ASK-EFFY Escape pg. 61 Website: escapewatches.com Email: contact@escapewatches.com Phone: 469-646-9990

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018

Italgem Steel pg. 28 Website: Italgemsteel.com Email: sam@italgemsteel.com Phone: 514-388-5777 Toll-Free: 855-ITALGEM Fax: 514-384-5777 JCK Events pg. 6-7, 112 Website: jckshows.com Toll-Free: 800-257-3626 Jewelers Mutual Insurance pg. 51 Website: jewelersmutual.com Toll-Free: 800-558-6411 JIS Show pg. 8-9 Website: jisshow.com Email: info@jisshow.com Toll-Free: 800-840-5612 Jye’s International pg. 58 Website: jyescorp.com Email: jyescorp@gmail.com Phone: 415-621-8880

Le Vian pg. Inside Front Cover, 1 Website: levian.com Email: sales@levian.com Toll-Free: 877-2LEVIAN

Rembrandt Charms pg. 42 Website: rembrandtcharms.com Email: orders@rembrandtcharms.com Toll-Free: 800-828-7811

Lightbox Jewelry pg. 16-17 Website: lightboxjewelry.com Email: hello@lightboxjewelry.com

Royal Chain Group pg. 2-3 Website: royalchain.com Toll-Free: 800-622-0960

Mastoloni pg. 105 Website: mastoloni.com Toll-Free: 800-347-3275

Shy Creation Inc. pg. 23 Website: shycreation.com Toll-Free: 800-606-1749

MDJ Advantage pg. 38 Website: mdjadvantage.com Email: Dm@mdjadvantage.com Toll-Free: 888-500-4311 Toll-Free Fax: 877-487-2104

Stuller Inc. pg. 21, 109 Website: stuller.com Email: info@stuller.com Toll-Free: 800-877-7777 Fax: 337-981-1655

Midas pg. 31 Website: midaschain.com Email: sales@midaschain.com Toll-Free: 877-643-2765

Sylvie Collection pg. 99 Website: sylviecollection.com Email: cassie@spectrumdiamonds.com Phone: 800-992-3426 Fax: 214-472-9990

Nelson Jewelry USA pg. 48 Website: nelsonus.com Email: info@nelsonus.com Toll-Free: 800-489-3327 Quintessence Jewelry Corporation pg. 30 Website: quintessencejewelry.com Email: pradeep@quintessencejewelry.com Phone: 516-439-5260 Toll-Free: 877-405-5588 Fax: 516-439-5264 Rahaminov Diamonds pg. 15 Website: rahaminov.com Email: info@rahaminov.com Phone: 213-622-9866 Fax: 213-622-6113 Rand & Paseka pg. 53 Website: randpaseka.com Email: sales@randpaseka.com Toll-Free: 800-229-0006

Thorsten Jewelry pg. 103 Website: thorstenrings.com Email: support@thorstenrings.com Umicore pg. 118 Website: umicorepreciousmetals.com Toll-Free: 877-795-5060 VIBHOR pg. 27 Website: vibhorgems.com Phone: 617-308-1580 Wilkerson pg. 29 Website: wilkersons.com Toll-Free: 800-631-1999 Toll-Free Fax: 800-949-1333 Zen Diamond pg. 47 Website: zendiamond.com Phone: 201-842-7698

RDI Diamonds pg. 94, Back Cover Website: rdidiamonds.com Toll-Free: 800-874-8768

Kim International pg. 25 Website: kimint.com Email: sales@kimint.com Toll-Free: 800-275-5555

Copyright ©2018 Reed Exhibitions. All Rights Reserved. JCK Vol. 149 No. 6 (ISSN 1534-2719) is published 7 times a year in January/February, March/April, May, June, July/ August, September/October, and November/December for $59.95 by Advance Local LLC d/b/a Headline Studio on behalf of Reed Exhibitions, 383 Main Avenue, Norwalk CT 06851. Reed Business Information is a division of Reed Elsevier, Inc. Circulation records are maintained at (800) 305-7759. Periodicals Postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to JCK, P.O. Box 5663, Harlan, IA 51537. JCK is a registered trademark of Reed Properties Inc., used under license.

Kimberly Collins Colored Gems pg. 32 Website: kimberlycollinsgems.com Email: kim@kimberlycollinsgems.com Phone: 512-661-8778

This advertiser index is published as a conve-nience and not as part of the advertising contract. Every care will be taken to index correctly. No allowance will be made for errors due to spelling, incorrect page number, or failure to insert or include information. Please reference page number listed for more information.

JCKONLINE.COM


CLASSIFIEDS

127

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The Nation's Largest Restyle Event Company Seeks Experienced Jewelry Sales Representatives and Bench Jewelers who are free to travel and ready for the financial success that working for a great company offers. Salary plus commissions $80K to $120K+. Set schedule; no cold calls. 34 weeks per year travel required, security provided. Benefits include bonuses, 401K and profit-sharing plans, dental, paid health and life insurance, commuting allowance, paid travel expenses and vacation.

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JEWELRY APPRAISERS Heritage Appraisers Inc is seeking several local experienced jewelry appraisers. This is a subcontractor opportunity with limited travel. Several territories nationally. Top commission paid.

Applicants can submit their resumes along with two sample appraisals to appraise@heritageappraisers.com or fax to 216-803-4245 These are immediate openings only serious applicants should apply.

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RUN A CLASSIFIED AD STARTING AT $220 Call your JCK Sales Representative or email JCKClassifieds@advance.net.

SEPTEMBER / OCTOBER 2018


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THE WAY WE WORE M E G AWAT TA G E O N A N D O F F T H E S C R E E N

WE GOT YOU, BABE BARBARA “BABE” Cushing Mortimer Paley was destined for the fashionable life. Born to a world-renowned surgeon with sisters who married into the Astor and Roosevelt families (they were known as the “fabulous Cushing sisters”), Paley reigned supreme in New York society. After a stint as an editor at Vogue, she left to marry her second husband, CBS founder William S. Paley. Yet she never strayed far from haute couture fashion and fine jewelry, modeling occasionally and remaining on best-dressed lists throughout her life. In this 1946 photograph for Vogue, there is a haunting sadness in Paley’s eyes—though she is arrestingly beautiful in a rayon jersey Traina-Norell dress, strands upon strands of pearls, and a cocktail ring. Like this photo, Paley’s life appeared to be a series of contradictions. Verdura and Schlumberger were her favorite jewelers, but she wasn’t above wearing costume pieces. Her husband was a philanderer and prone to rages—which no doubt filled her days with heartbreak—yet she was posh, privileged, and everyone’s aspirational ideal. Even her enemies were awed. “Mrs. P had only one fault,” said Truman Capote, who famously betrayed her confidences, causing her to drop him as a friend. “She was perfect. Otherwise, she was perfect.” —KRISTIN YOUNG

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HORST P. HORST/CONDÉ NAST VIA GETTY IMAGES

Of socialite/style icon Babe Paley, Oscar de la Renta once raved: “Whatever she wore, she wore in a way you would never forget.”


©2018 Gemological Institute of America, Inc.

Not all gems come from under the ground. The Gemological Institute of America supports communities where gems are mined, working with the Nelson Mandela Centre of Memory to build libraries in Africa and helping artisanal miners understand the quality of their discoveries with our Gem Guide. These initiatives help make it possible for regional populations to take a more active role in the industry and ultimately help their community look forward to a brighter future. Our contributions are one of the many reasons why GIA is the world’s foremost authority on diamonds, colored stones and pearls. The World’s Foremost Authority in Gemology

Learn more about the many facets of GIA at GIA.edu

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Enter by October 10

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