The Denver Post Winter Getaways | 2022

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COVER PHOTO: A young skier launches off a jump on a float during the 56th annual Ullr Fest parade in Breckenridge on Jan. 10, 2019. Breckenridge holds the annual festival to honor, Ullr, the God of Winter, to bring more great snow to Breckenridge for the ski and snowboarding season.

What’s inside
Andy Cross, The Denver Post EDITOR Dena Rosenberry Annika Mueller
DESIGNER
Unplug and relax at these Colorado getaways | 5 10 Colorado ski areas come alive after dark | 11-15 6 winter trail bike rides with amazing views | 16 19 Enjoy skiing backcountry on a snowcat trip | 20 23 7 reasons to fall in love with Crested Butte | 24 28 Experience Vail’s Bavarian flair this winter | 29 32 10 reasons to head to Leadville this winter | 33-35 Historic hotels are a great base camp for winter fun | 36 38 6 favorite winter hiking trails in Colorado | 39-44 Embrace an A frame state of mind | 45 46 Warm up in these 10 cozy bars and restaurants | 47 49 The best Colorado winter festivals for 2022 23 | 50 54 5 beers to pair with ski season | 55 Where to find fondue and raclette in Colorado | 57-58 4W» SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 20, 2022 B DENVERPOST.COM B THE DENVER POST 6
Maureen Burnett, Chris Paul and Donovan
Henderson
COPY
EDITORS Eric
Stahlecker drills a new hole while ice fishing at Chatfield Reservoir on March 10 in Littleton as Denver recorded its lowest temperature in 90 years when the
mercury
hit minus 7 degrees. RJ Sangosti, The Denver Post

Unplug and relax at these Colorado getaways

At the end of a long day of Zoom meet ings,Slackandtextmessages,andcatchy TikTok songs stuck in your head, you may be tempted to gather all of your electronic devices and toss them in the trash.

Vanquishing screen time need not be so dramatic.

Unplugging from technology can be a battle — especially for teens and tweens butwithalittleforesightandplanning it’s possible to enjoy a getaway that’s de void of digital distractions It’s even easi er to do in Colorado than elsewhere; our abundant wilderness is the perfect antidote to all those addictive devices.

So before you unplug the Wi-Fi, con-

sider getting away for a few tech-free days in one of these Colorado destinations.

Silverton

Silverton’s remoteness is part of its ap peal. You’ll feel so far removed from yourday to dayroutinethatyou’lleasily break the habit of constantly refreshing your inbox or mindlessly scrolling Reels on Instagram.

The towering San Juan Mountains are a low tech playground for your family or friends group. Zip around the region’s many snowmobiling trails, which are groomed by the Silverton Snowmobile Club.

Try cross-country skiing, ice skating,

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Guests at Scarp Ridge Lodge in Crested Butte have access to a private snowcat in winter. Photos by provided by Eleven Experience
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The bunk room at the Scarp Ridge Lodge in downtown Crested Butte includes seven beds and luxury amenities.

sledding, tubing and skiing at Kendall Mountain Ski Area. If your crew includes expert skiers, test your mettle on the ad vanced, lift-accessible backcountry terrain at Silverton Mountain Ski Area, which you can rent out for yourself.

The bunk bed suites at the WymanHotelareidealforfami lies and small groups of friends. They offer a king bed with twin extra-long bunks lofted above.

The boutique hotel is cozy, with just 15 guest rooms, and intentionally low tech: You won’t find TVs in the rooms or in the main lounge, which means there’s more time for chatting and playing board games.

Larger groups can book the hostel-inspired bunk room, which includes all the luxurious amenities offered throughout the rest of the hotel.

Rooms from $210; bunks, $75. thewyman.com

Crested Butte and Gunnison

The snow and terrain at Crested Butte Mountain Resort are reason enough to make the four-hour trek from the Front Range, but the Gunnison Valley offers multiple activities for families seeking time together. Wander Crested Butte’s charming downtown, go ice fishing in Gunnison, ride snowmobiles near Almont and enjoy serene cross-country skiing and snow shoeing throughout the valley

There are plenty of places to stay, but the Scarp Ridge Lodge, an old saloon that’s been transformed into a seriously cushy vacation rental in downtown Crested Butte, is worth a serious look. With five king rooms and a bunk room — complete with seven bunk beds — there’s roomforeveryonetospreadout and unwind.

Who needs YouTube when you have an indoor saltwater pool, steam room, sauna and indoor and outdoor hot tubs to enjoy?

In the morning, after a chef prepared breakfast, hop into a custom-designed snowcat and follow experienced guides through more than 1,000 acres of powder near Irwin that are open exclusively to the lodge’s

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The bunk room at the Scarp Ridge Lodge in downtown Crested Butte includes seven beds and luxury amenities. Provided by Eleven Experience Scarp Ridge Lodge is an old saloon that’s been transformed into a seriously cushy vacation rental in downtown Crested Butte. Provided by Eleven Experience
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The Wyman Hotel in Silverton is cozy, with just 15 guest rooms, and intentionally low-tech. Think board games, not TV. Bridget Burnett, provided by The Wyman Hotel

guests.

For a more off-the-beaten path stay, book a few nights at Taylor River Lodge inAlmont.Thiscozy,remotelodgeisthe perfect place to catch up on reading, experience the rejuvenating bliss of snow shoeing through the woods, take a cooking class or sip cocoa by the fireplace.

Be prepared, because you never know when Crested Butte will get an infamous snow dump

Rates vary for these properties, but expect to pay up to $1,000 a day, which includes food and most activities. elevenexperience.com

Golden

If you’re short on time but still need a getaway, consider a long weekend in Golden. Feel the winter sun on your face while snowshoeing or fat-tire biking in the foothills, then take a trip back in time at the American Mountaineering Museum, the Colorado Railroad Museum (which offers Polar Express train rides) or the Golden History Museum (your kids will have so much fun they won’t re alizethey’relearningsomething…onva cation).

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The boutique Wyman Hotel, at right, is in downtown Silverton. Silverton’s remoteness is part of its appeal. Bridget Burnett, provided by The Wyman Hotel

Kick back at The Eddy Hotel & Taproom, which offers a two-bedroom cornersuitewithakingbed,queenbed,twin bunk and sofa sleeper (no struggles over who has to share a bed). The junior suite features two queen beds topped by two lofted twin bunks — an ideal setup for telling stories late into the night.

From about $155. theeddygolden.com

Aspen and Snowmass

Take a break from screens and immerse yourself in arts and culture in the Roaring Fork Valley. Aspen’s new Resnick Center for Herbert Bayer Studies, which opened this summer on the grounds of the Aspen Institute, explores thelifeandlegacyoftheprolificBauhaus artist who helped shape the city’s postwar revitalization.

Come in from the cold and admire the artwork at Aspen’s 20 or so private galleries, then venture to Snowmass for a hands-on workshop or lecture at Anderson Ranch Arts Center (which is also home to a beautiful sculpture garden).

For a splurge, stay at the Aspen Street Lodge, a thoughtfully designed property that seamlessly blends the privacy of a vacationrentalwithalltheamenitiesofa hotel.

Located downtown, the lodge can accommodate up to 32 guests and features arooftopheatedpoolandhottub,anout door grill and pizza oven, a game room and more than 3,000 square feet of outdoor terraces offering views of the mountains and the city’s charming neighborhoods.

A dedicated experience manager can createacustomitineraryforyourfamily, withoptionsrangingfromparaglidingto a private abstract painting lesson.

Groups also feel right at home at the ideally situated Limelight hotels in Aspen and Snowmass. Decorated with bold colors and fun, modern decor, the two sister properties offer casual, familyfriendlyamenitieslikeaheartybreakfast buffet, gear rentals, outdoor pools and hot tubs, shuttles, and cozy lounges for warming up after a day on the slopes.

High prices in Aspen put you off? New restaurants in Snowmass provide plenty of reasons to stay put after dark.

From about $240. aspenstreetlodge.com; limelighthotels.com

Grand Junction and Palisade

Unlike many Colorado destinations Grand Junction doesn’t tend to draw crowds when the temperature drops, but theregionstilloffersplentyofwinterac tivities that can help you recharge your batteries.

The remote lodge is designed to promote unplugging from technology by pulling out the Uno deck or just enjoying a sip of cocoa by the fireplace. You could also take a cooking class or snowshoe through the woods.

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Sit back with a good book and read away for an afternoon at Taylor River Lodge in Almont. Photos provided by Eleven Experience
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Ski or snowboard at Powderhorn Mountain Resort, explore the crosscountry ski and snowshoe trails atop the Grand Mesa, zoom around on snowmobiles, glide on ice skates or soak up the region’s quiet serenity while ice fishing. The area maintains a blissfully relaxed, laid-back vibe year-round.

Hotel Maverick, located on the scenic campus of Colorado Mesa University, welcomes groups and families. Schoolthemed decor is everywhere, from the historic newspaper clippings on the walls to the cocktails developed by the university’strusteesonthemenuatDev il’s Kitchen, the hotel’s modern fourthfloor restaurant offering views of the Grand Valley.

From about $140. thehotelmaverick.com

In neighboring Palisade, the peach trees and grapevines may be dormant, but adults can still sip Colorado wines in the region’s many cozy tasting rooms, sample spirits at local distilleries, and enjoy sunny winter hiking and biking. BookablockofroomsatSpokeandVine, a renovated roadside motel with a modern amenities and nostalgic charm.

From about $130 spokeandvinemotel.com

Make our home your family’s getaway Unwind and make lasting memories with your loved ones at The Broadmoor with Winter Spectacular rates starting at $279 per night Play till your hearts content in our indoor pool or catch a movie in our theatre Perhaps a little competition is more up your alley with a friendly game of bowling at PLAY Or take on an adventure with some of our Broadmoor experiences such as falconry, zip lining, mountain biking and more All of this coupled with our award winning restaurants and legendary service are sure to make for a spectacular experience

Visit broadmoor com to book today.

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Friends play chess and cornhole and sit around the fire pit outside The Eddy Hotel & Taproom in Golden.
CLOSE TO HOME, A WORLD AWAY .
Hyoung Chang, Denver Post file
8 7 7 6 3 3 1 7 1 5 B R O A D M O O R C O M Rate starts at $279 00 per n ght based on double occupancy Offer valid select dates November 2022 March 2023 Limited availabil ty Not app cab e to groups Rates do not inc ude appl cab e taxes and fees Va id for new book ngs only

Granby

With rustic private cabins and spacious lodge rooms, Snow Mountain Ranchis ideal for groups and multi generational fam ilies who want to ditch the screens and immerse themselves in nature.

Part of YMCA of the Rockies, this 5,000-acre property in Grand County offers a wide range of winter activities for every skill and comfort level, including cross-country skiing, snow shoeing and dog sledding.

This set-up gives families and groups lots of flexibility: One crewmaydecidetogoiceskatingwhileanothertakesaskijoring lessonorlearnsanewcraft,theneveryonecanmeetuplaterand share stories from the day’s outings.

From about $110. ymcarockies.org/winter-park

ThoughyoucouldspendaweekatSnowMountainRanchand not get bored, there are also ample activities to check out in Granby, Tabernash, Fraser and Winter Park. Skiers and snowboarders can hit the slopes atWinter Park Resort, voted best ski area in the U.S. by USA Today readers last year, and Granby Ranch, while thrill-seekers may want to explore the area’s 1,000 miles of snowmobile trails.

Snowshoeing,icefishing,sledding, tubing,sleighrides,fatbik ing, wildlife spottingand tons of other cold weather adventures are great for reconnecting IRL (in real life, not via a screen).

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«FROM 9 The patio area at the Maverick Hotel in Grand Junction invites fireside chats. Provided by Maverick Hotel
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Kids slide down the tubing hill at Snow Mountain Ranch. Provided by YMCA of the Rockies

Colorado ski areas come alive after dark

With so few hours of daylight, winter ski vacations often feel like a race against time How can you pack in as much skiing, snowboarding, snowshoe ing, snowmobiling, hot tubbing and ice skating as possible before the sun goes down?

The answer? You don’t have to. At many Colorado ski areas, you can keep the fun going even after it gets dark Here are some of our favorite nighttime activities to help you make the most of your getaways this winter.

Vail

Take your pick between two evening ice skating options after a full day of ski ing or snowboarding in Vail’s legendary

back bowls. Surrounded by the twin kling lights and Swiss inspired architec ture of the Arrabelle Hotel and Spa, the ice rink at Arrabelle Square in Lions head Village offers rental skates and training aids There’s a cozy fire pit to warm your hands and a conveniently lo cated coffee and gelato shop, Rimini, nearby.

In Vail Village, check out the ice rink at the Solaris Center, then grab a beer at Vail Brewing Co.’s small but mighty tasting room and, if the weather is coop erating, enjoy the patio. discovervail.com/things to do

Howelsen Hill

As Colorado’s oldest continuously operating ski area, Howelsen Hill has

Night skiing is included in the standard lift ticket at Howelsen Hill in Steamboat Springs. Provided by city of Steamboat Springs
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Skating at the Arrabelle’s Alderhof Ice Rink, in Vail’s Lionshead Village, is like twirling in the middle of a European square. Provided by Vail Resorts

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seen its fair share of trends come and go over the last 107 years. But one thing has remained constant: Skiing should be a fun, affordable activity for generations of families

And while ripping down this Yampa Valley hill in the sunshine is, of course, a blast, there’s a special magic that hap pens when the sun goes down and the big lights come on at Howelsen The city of Steamboat Springs, which owns and operates the historic ski area, in cludes night skiing in Howelsen’s stan dard lift ticket, so you can ski all day, take a dinner break, then come back for more And when you do so, you’ll be fol lowing in the ski tracks of the 100 Olym pians, 22 Colorado Ski Hall of Famers and 13 National Ski Hall of Famers who have used Howelsen as a training

ground over the years. steamboatsprings.net

Snowmass

Fireworks are great, but they disap pear so quickly! At the base of the Snowmass ski area, however, you can wander through a longer lasting display of art and light called “Luminescence.”

This experience, a winter favorite of lo cals and visitors, features dazzling im mersive installations that come alive af ter dark In the past, the free exhibit has included 28 foot tall illuminated dan delions and a tunnel programmed with festive light displays for visitors to walk through. You can expect something similar this season

What’s more, Snowmass Base Village has a picturesque ice skating rink sur rounded by colorful holiday lights and cozy outdoor fireplaces. The rink, locat ed in front of Limelight Hotel Snow

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Live music and après-ski food and drinks create an upbeat atmosphere for night skiing at Granby Ranch. Provided by Granby Ranch
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Beano’s Cabin at Beaver Creek is an inviting place for a cozy dinner. Jack Affleck, provided by Beaver Creek

mass, offers free skate rentals and stays open until 9 p m so you can truly make the most of your winter getaway in the Roaring Fork Valley. aspensnowmass.com

Echo Mountain

Since it’s the closest ski area to Den ver, Echo already gets major points for not making us sit in Interstate 70 traffic for any longer than is absolutely neces sary And, at night, this intimate ski area turns on the charm (and the lights) for skiing and tubing after sunset.

Night skiing runs Wednesday through Sunday from 4:30 to 9 p.m. It’s included in the resort’s daytime lift tickets, so you can ski day and night if you’d like

Or, if you’re making the trip up for some evening laps, a night time ticket will run you just $35. Keep in mind that Echo mainly keeps intermediate terrain open in the evenings, so if you consider your self a true beginner, the night runs may be a little outside your comfort zone

Evening snow tubing has a fun, party like atmosphere, complete with music to jam out to while you zoom down the hill. Tubing also runs until 9 p.m. and you’ll need to reserve an hour long time slot in advance As you race your friends down Echo’s six tubing lanes be sure to remember to look up at the stars. echomntn.com

Copper Mountain

Any day spent exploring Copper’s 2,500 skiable acres is a good day. But the fun doesn’t have to stop just because the

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Snowboarders enjoy a night ride on the Schoolmarm run at Keystone Ski Resort January 10, 2018. Andy Cross, Denver Post file
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Eleanor Schnitzler, 6, rides the magic carpet for another ride on a beginner slope at Echo Mountain on March 25, 2021. AAron Ontiveroz, Denver Post file
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sun sinks behind the mountains Copper offers ice skating on West Lake, located in the ski area’s Center Village, typically starting in late December or early Janu ary and ending in late March or early April, depending on weather condi tions.

Though the resort’s team is still final izing hours for this year, the skating rink has typically stayed open until 9 p m , which means there’s plenty of time for a romantic date night or an evening out with family and friends. You can rent skates at nearby City Pop, then twirl around on the ice, try to score a hockey goal and test your broomball skills Afterward, grab a bite to eat at nearby Ten Mile Tavern or Sawmill Piz za and Taphouse. coppercolorado.com

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After a day on the slopes at Copper Mountain, take a spin on West Lake in the ski area’s Center Village. Curtis DeVore, provided by Copper Mountain A visitor walks through a sculptural tunnel of light at “Luminescence” at the Snowmass ski area’s base area.
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Provided by Aspen Snowmass

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Keystone Ski Resort

Make the most out of your trip into the high country by sticking around for night skiing at Keystone. Offered from 4 to 8 p m most Fridays, Saturdays and holidays, night skiing is the perfect way to extend your visit or grab a few bonus laps after other activities in Summit County. And you’ll feel like you have the mountain to yourself as you race down crowd free slopes with the crisp evening air on your cheeks. The views of the base village’s twinkling lights are pretty spectacular, too.

Steamboat Springs

Explore even more of Steamboat’s light, fluffy champagne powder after dark when you stick around for night skiing The resort keeps the Christie Peak Express chairlift and five trails open at night Stampede and Lil’ Ro deo (beginner), Sitz and Vogue (inter mediate) and See Me (advanced) so there are options for skiers and riders of all ability levels And thanks to a high tech lighting system, the nighttime visi bility at Steamboat is top notch.

steamboat.com

Granby Ranch

Live music and après ski food and

drinks create an upbeat atmosphere for night skiing at Granby Ranch, the fami ly friendly Grand County ski area with more than 400 acres of skiable terrain The resort typically stays open for night skiing until 7 p.m. on select Friday and Saturday nights, and you may get an ex tra hour as the days get longer in spring Season pass holders can ski at night for free, while day trippers can upgrade their ticket to include night skiing, and anyone can purchase a night only pass. granbyranch.com

Beaver Creek

Though you’ll find delicious eateries at just about every Colorado ski area, Beaver Creek really takes dinner to a whole other level with its three fine din

ing cabins Beano’s, Zach’s and Allie’s which are only accessible via a sleigh pulled by a snowcat For a more casual activity, Beaver Creek also has an ice rink under the stars that offers skate rentals, as well as “ice bikes” that com bine a beach cruiser with an ice skate blade

There are fire pits surrounding the rink and because Beaver Creek Village has what’s known as a “common con sumption area,” you can order a cocktail from any of the 14 neighboring restau rants and walk around with it until 10 p m From mid December through March, you can also marvel at fireworks during Beaver Creek’s “Thursday Night Lights” events. beavercreek com

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Michelle Steenvoorden enjoys a wide-open run at Echo Mountain on March 25, 2021. AAron Ontiveroz, The Denver Post

6 winter trail rides with amazing views near Crested Butte

Recognized as a mecca of mountain biking, Crested Butte is also a pioneer of fat biking. Fat bikes use oversized tires to boost stability and traction while you’re riding on packed snow or slick roads, through sand or deep gravel, or on trails with mixed conditions

Since the 1980s, Gunnison Valley local Dave Wiens Mountain Bike Hall of Fame inductee and executive director of the International Mountain Bicycling Association has been pedaling trails across the valley year round. But early on, riding on snow was tough, he said. Technology didn’t match the condi tions, and winter spring trail grooming didn’t exist

Now, fat bikes make riding mixed con ditions easier for everyone.

The seeds of change for improving trail conditions started when Dave Ochs drove his Toyota pickup with Samoyed spaniel Trapper in tow through Crested Butte en route to As pen in 2001 and never left.

Instead, he joined roommates to dig Tony’s Trail with the Crested Butte Mountain Bike Association (said to be the world’s first mountain bike club), founded in 1983 to unite Gunnison Val ley riders through trail development and events.

Ochs was hooked.

He volunteered as CBMBA’s secretary, worked as a remote drafter, rode his $500 Jamis, and developed a “credit card problem” collecting single speeds, clunkers and townies. In 2016, his phi lanthropy evolved into a still held posi tion as the first executive director of CBMBA.

That same year, the passionate biker launched the Borealis Fat Bike World Championships, an annual four day fat bike event for upwards of 1,400 riders that features costumes, whiskey, and backside branding.

“We needed more winter business and we were already a mountain bike destination. Fat bike technology was catching up tires were becoming bet ter with more options and abilities and the bikes were getting lighter,” said Ochs.

To groom trail, CBMBA purchased a Yellowstone Track Systems groomer (then realized, it didn’t work in the snowpack). Troubleshooting, they Mac Gyvered a groomer using a giant rubber horse stall mat from Tractor Supply

with metal teeth and bolts welded on to it.

“It’s like a medieval torture device that works better than a multi thou sand dollar machine,” said Ochs. The group’s grooming techniques get more dialed in every year.

Today, the Fat Bike World Champion ships travels around the U S the 2023 event is in Wisconsin and CBMBA grooms more than 16 miles of trails on the north end of the Gunnison Valley for use in winter and through spring. And that’s just the start.

Additional fat biking routes are groomed by Gunnison County SNO Trackers (a nonprofit that advocates for snowmobiling and provides multi use trail grooming), Crested Butte Nordic, and Crested Butte Mountain Resort Many fat bike routes are remote dou blewide roads or sidewalk width tracks but 33 miles south of Crested Butte,

Gunnison Trails grooms nearly 20 miles of singletrack at Hartman Rocks Recre ation Area

To pack down the narrow trail network, Gunnison Trails drives a track sled “basically a lawn mower engine on top of a snowmobile track,” ex plained executive director Tim Kugler.

Compared to the steep views around Crested Butte, the fat bike trails in Hart man Rocks meander through high ele vation sagebrush country speckled with mixed pine, junipers and gigantic gran ite boulders.

“Hartman Rocks offers ridiculously cool views south to the San Juans, west to the West Elk Wilderness, and to the north end of the valley. In winter, the landscape is dramatic and brings a con trast of being in the high desert sur rounded by mountains,” Kugler said

Altogether, fat bikers can enjoy more than 38 miles of groomed track through

out Gunnison Valley not to mention Kebler Pass and Ohio Creek Roads, which Gunnison County SNO Trackers regularly grooms from Kebler Trail head to Erickson Springs and Ohio Pass Trailheads, as well as up to Lost Lake Campground and Lake Irwin, which of fers about 40 miles of corduroy.

The best part of fat biking, beyond the fun and exercise, is the sustainability

“You can put a track for fat biking in snow, and it won’t have any impact to the ecosystem or landscape. In the sum mertime, those tracks melt and you’re back to pristine meadows,” said Kugler Plus, no pass or trail fees are required.

Fat bikes are also a great option when the conditions are unpredictable during the shoulder seasons a mix of snow, dirt, gravel and mud

Here are six of the best winter trails

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Fat bikers ride a groomed trail near Crested Butte in winter.
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Provided by Crested Butte Mountain Bike Association

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with jaw dropping views throughout the Gunnison Valley, according to local riders.

Town Ranch

Distance: 1.7 mile loop Location: Crested Butte town. You might be steer ing your bike at 9,000 feet, but this loop is wide, compacted, flat, simple, and ideal for beginner fat bikers and to accli mate to the altitude, says Ochs. Plus, the circuit sits at the base of 12,162 foot Mount Crested Butte and is an easy to access trail on the southeast corner of town

“You don’t need to stay centered in a skinny track and can zigzag all over the course. You can also work on tire pres sure,” said Ochs, recommending a range of 4 to 6 pounds of pressure to “float on top of the snow and increase surface

area.”

Note: A regular bike pump doesn’t register tire pressure that low, so bor row or rent an appropriate tire gauge for your trip

Golf Course Loops (Club at CB)

Distance: 3.5 miles Location: Crested Butte town. “Not a lot of people ride the golf course loops, but it’s a really fun fat bike singletrack, because it’s not a huge, wide path. There are lots of ups and downs. The route takes you to an area you’d never be in the summer and you won’t see anyone else out there,” said Beth Shaner, a winter fat bike com muter and athlete Based in Gunnison Valley, she completed the 2022 and 2020 Iditarod Trail Invitational, a 350 mile race in Alaska.

To reach this trail at The Club at Crested Butte golf course, pedal 5 mile on the Town Ranch loop in southeast Crested Butte to the 1.1 mile Riverbend Trail, then hop on the Skyland bike

path. At the golf course, you can ride the 2 mile Front 9 loop or the 1.1 mile Back 9 lollipop, which are linked via a 1,000 foot long connector trail

Crested Butte to Mount Crested Butte

Distance: 2.2 miles one way Loca tion: Along the CB Rec Path From town, enjoy a moderate climb to Mount Crested Butte, then turn around and coast downhill. “The rec path is a more beginner friendly and close to town ride You get some elevation gain, the route gets groomed regularly and is in good condition for fat biking,” said Shaner, who commutes to work via the rec path with stunning 360 degree views.

Gothic Road

Distance: 3 miles one way Location: Snodgrass Trailhead. Many of the routes in Gunnison Valley are open to all users including human powered, motorized and hybrid recreationists which is all great for packing down the

snow for fat bikers.

Gothic Road stretches from Snodgrass Trailhead to Gothic, a histor ic ghost town at the base of the rugged 12,400 foot Gothic Mountain, and the route is solely dedicated to non motor ized travel but still gets groomed.

“One of my favorite rides is to go to Gothic and back. You can also ride from Crested Butte town if you want more mileage but most people park at Snodgrass Trailhead,” Shaner said.

Be sure to understand if your selected route is in avalanche terrain snow filled slopes that are 30 degrees or more have a potential risk to slide and check the avalanche forecast published each day by the Crested Butte Ava lanche Center.

“The caveat is that any time you ride up these drainages such as Gothic, Cement Creek and Kebler Pass there’s always avalanche potential,” added Shaner. Stick to trails near town if avalanche danger is reported.

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Fat bikers can enjoy more than 38 miles of groomed track through the snow across the Gunnison Valley. Danica Bona, Sweet Tea Studios

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Josie’s, The Luge, Buddy Bear Loop

Distance: About 5 miles Location: Hartman Rocks Recreation Area Park at the southwest entrance of Hartman Rocks Rec Area and start pedaling east bound at a mellow grade on BLM 3500 road, then veer north on Josie’s, a 2 mile segment

“At the prominent top, Josie’s has good views and a contoured descent that’s flowy. The route is south facing and often it’s good to go at 2 p.m. in Jan uary Even when it’s cold, the sun is so

bright, you don’t need many layers, work up a good heat, and you’re never going that fast on a fat bike,” Kugler said Next, head south on The Luge and continue onto Buddy Bear to finish the long loop. “The loop is a ‘holy cow, that was amazing’ ride. In the summer, that’d take you 40 minutes In the winter, plan for twice the amount of time,” he added

Top of the World

Distance: 2 miles one way Location: Hartman Rocks Recreation Area. On the northeast corner of Hartman Rocks Rec Area, start at the parking lot off Gold Basin Road then pedal less than 1 mile up Lower Jack and Jacks: It’s a climb out the gate Head west to connect with Top of the World, a 2 mile route that lives up

to its name.

“Put Top of the World on your must ride list It’s a long trail that contours along an east facing hill, there’s a nice prominent high spot, and it’s a proper 15 minute climb whereas a lot of other trails are rolling,” Kugler said.

If You Go

Lodging: For a premium therapeutic experience and optimal location mid way between the towns of Gunnison and Crested Butte stay at the Taylor River Lodge, which boasts private cab ins with luxurious steam showers, arti san meals at a communal table, and a bathhouse with a saltwater pool, sauna and hot tub

In Crested Butte, the Elk Mountain

Lodge, built in 1919 as a miner’s hotel, is cozy and serves a robust breakfast buf fet

If camping is more your style, drive up to Elk Creek Campground in Cure canti National Recreation Area, which sits southwest of Gunnison with your tent or RV At 7,540 feet, the sites over look Blue Mesa Reservoir, where the water freezes over for ice fishing and ice skating in winter. The campground is open year round. Reservations aren’t needed in winter, and the price drops in October to $8 a night

Dining: To replenish after your ride, grab a meal and brews at High Alpine Brewing Co. in Gunnison or at the Se cret Stash Pizza in Crested Butte.

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A group bikes along a snowy trail near Crested Butte. Provided by Meyvn Creative

Trail grooming season

• Crested Butte: roughly December to March

• Gunnison: roughly December to February

Grooming/trail reports

Check with CBMBA, Crested Butte Crested Butte Nordic, Crested Butte Crested Butte Mountain Resort, Mount Crested Butte Safety & courtesy

• Learn and follow basic fat biking eti quette: crestedbuttemountain bike.com/winter/winter etiquette

• Crested Butte Mountain Resort up hill access policy: skicb.com/the moun tain/more options/uphill access poli

throughout Gunnison Valley are free to use, with many non profits pooling resources to maintain winter access. Consider becoming a member or donating to any of the orga nizations providing safety and access: Crested Butte Mountain Bike Associa tion, Gunnison County SNO Trackers, Crested Butte Nordic, Crested Butte Av alanche Center and Gunnison Trails.

Fat biking

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Fat bike rentals
• Crested Butte Avalanche Center avalanche forecast: cbavalanchecen ter org/forecasts/#/all
• The Alpineer, 970 349 5210
• Double Shot Cyclery, 970 642 5411
Fees
• Rock N’ Rock Sports, 970 641 9150
trails
Morgan Tilton is an outdoors writer based in the Gunnison Valley
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The Crested Butte Mountain Bike Association created a trail groomer to ensure riders could continue to enjoy the area all winter. Photos provided by Meyvn Creative The
fat bike trails at Hartman Rocks meander through high-elevation sagebrush country speckled with mixed pine, junipers and gigantic granite boulders
DENVER

Enjoy skiing backcountry Colorado on a snowcat trip

Untracked powder at ski resorts has become as elusive as the $5 lunch, the $50 lift ticket or free parking right by the chairlift. You can put the blame on crowds, high speed quad chairs and cli mate change But there’s one guaran teed way to experience the pure joy of skiing virgin snow, making effortless turns in powder so soft and light it flies in your face with every move: a snowcat tour

A snowcat is a tracked vehicle with an enclosed cab, typically seating 10 to 14 people. To step out of one high on a mountainside into a sea of untracked

powder, click or strap in, then plunge down prime terrain is a sublime experi ence.

As ski and snowboard gear has evolved to make skiing powder a plea sure instead of a chore, numerous com panies have emerged, each obtaining special permits to use these vehicles to take skiers deep into the backcountry for a bucket list skiing experience. In many cases, the guiding company has exclusive access to the area, so un touched snow is guaranteed

A few ski areas offer free snowcat rides to save skiers a bit of hiking to off piste terrain.

Wolf Creek has a snowcat to Horse shoe Bowl Loveland offers the Ridge

Snowcat to access some of its more re mote terrain Aspen Highlands has a snowcat to take some of the pain off hik ing to Highlands Bowl. But these oper ate sporadically based on weather and snow conditions.

For that guaranteed powder, you’ll need to shell out some big bucks But think of it this way: You could spend $200 on a lift ticket and maybe find some untracked snow on the side of a run or pay more and have one of the best ski days of your life This is your guide to doing just that

Aspen Powder Tours

Leave behind the famed slopes of As pen for a wilderness experience in the

gorgeous Elk Mountains. A typical day averages 10,000 vertical feet in a play ground of open bowls, meadows and glades. A day up here is so in demand a lottery is sometimes used for reserva tions.

Price: $625 per person or $5,800 for the entire snowcat aspensnowmass.com/visit/activities/ winter/aspen powder tours

Chicago Ridge Snowcat

Ski Cooper is a small, family friendly ski area, with mostly gentle terrain. Then there’s Chicago Ridge.

Towering above the Arkansas Valley,

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Skiers and snowboarders step out of a snowcat at Chicago Ridge at Ski Cooper, ready to enjoy fresh powder and no crowds.
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R Scott Rappold, Special to The Denver Post

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it’s a wonderland of bowls, chutes and meadows, all well above timberline. One used to have to pay for a full day on a snowcat to play here, but last winter the ski area began offering a deal: $59 for two runs

The snowcat operates Friday Sunday, weather and snow conditions permit ting.

For first dibs after a storm, you’ll want to be on the chair right at 9 a.m. then race to the bottom of the Piney Basin lift, as seats on these snowcats are first come, first served.

Price: $59 for two runs (with a lift tick et or pass) skicooper.com/snowcat skiing

Irwin Guides

There’s something special about Ir win, an alpine basin near the famed ski town of Crested Butte. Something about its location invites huge dumps, often three times what the Crested Butte ski area gets in average snowfall. Most of the runs begin high on a ridge with amazing views of the Elk Mountains, but you’ll be too busy laughing and choking on powder to notice.

Price: $850 per person or $8,500 for the entire snowcat irwinguides.com/snowcat skiing

Jones Pass Guides

Just a 45 minute drive from Denver, high in Arapahoe National Forest, the area around Jones Pass is a winter fanta syland of classic Rocky Mountain

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Skiers and snowboarders head out, far from crowds, after riding a snowcat to Chicago Ridge at Ski Cooper. R Scott Rappold, Special to The Denver Post
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A snowcat operator hands gear to eager skiers and snowboarders on a trip with Purgatory Snowcat Adventures. Provided by Purgatory Snowcat Adventures DENVER DENVERPOST.COM

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terrain In winter, when storms have been favoring northern Colorado, it’s a powder lover’s paradise.

The snowcat will take you as high as 12,800 feet, in north facing terrain where the snow stays light and fluffy The big city may be close but it will seem far, far away.

Price: $650 per person or $6,500 for the entire snowcat. jonespassguides.com

Keystone Adventure Tours

Get above the fray at busy Keystone on a snowcat Many skiers hike or skin up to access the Outback Bowls, but a

snowcat preserves your legs for the downhill. And you’ll need it, with seem ingly endless powder opportunities in these high alpine bowls.

You need to ride some lifts to get to the snowcat, so the price includes a lift ticket.

If you’re already at Keystone and just want a lift to the back bowls, you can hitch a ride for $10 and go off on your own

Price: $285 per person or $3,135 for the entire snowcat. Skiers at Keystone can also catch a ride to the Outback Bowls gate for $10 per ride.

summitcove com/activities/winter-activities/keystone skiing/cat skiing at key stone

Loveland Snowcat Tours

New for the 2022 23 season, Loveland

Ski Area will offer snowcat rides to the previously inaccessible terrain known as Dry Gulch (which will most certainly not be dry in winter).

The snowcat will take you to 580 acres of open bowls and trees that skiers at Loveland have been ogling for decades. Snowcats will run on weekends January through April.

Price: $395 per person or $4,500 for the entire snowcat skiloveland.com/snowcattours

Monarch Snowcat Tours

If you’re a powder lover and you’ve skied Monarch Mountain, you’ve proba bly done the grueling hike to Mirkwood Basin. Maybe you’ve been passed by a snowcat full of happy looking people. The snowcat tour takes you beyond the ropes to a series of ridges with steep

drops and gentle trees and no chairlift in sight, just 1,635 acres of fun on both sides of the Continental Divide.

Price: $575 per person or $5,500 for the entire snowcat skimonarch.com/monarch cat skiing

Purgatory Snowcat Adventures

This snowcat operation out of Purga tory Ski Resort offers access to a truly huge amount of terrain 35,000 acres in the backcountry of the San Juan Mountains, making it Colorado’s largest backcountry operation. So even if it hasn’t snowed in a while, you can expect fresh tracks and solitude up here.

Price: $500 per person purgatory ski/activities/snowcat

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«FROM 21 A skier surveys the terrain on a snowcat trip with Purgatory Snowcat Adventures, which provides access to 35,000 acres of the backcountry.
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Scott D W Smith, provided by Purgatory Snowcat Adventures

SNOWCAT

Silverton Powdercats

Silverton, deep in the San Juan Moun tains, is the kind of place skiers speak of in hushed tones.

Known as “the American Alps,” these mountains are jagged and forbidding, known for violent storms in summer and huge dumps in winter.

Only the brave venture out on their own. Fortunately you can snag a seat in a snowcat, which will shuttle you around 6,000 acres of terrain on Molas Pass

Price: $550 per person or $5,000 for an

entire snowcat. silvertonpowdercats.com

Steamboat Powdercats

Steamboat is where they coined the phrase “champagne powder,” for the light, fluffy snow that falls in northern Colorado

Leave the mega resort behind and take a snowcat tour on Buffalo Pass and you’ll truly understand why local snow got this name.

This long operating snowcat service has put together a network of named runs in numerous areas to guide you to the best snow. Consequences are high up here, so save the champagne for later when you’re celebrating the day.

Price: $850 per person or $8,500 for

the entire snowcat. steamboatpowdercats.com

Vail Powder Guides

Vail Pass is one of the most popular backcountry areas in Colorado. Right off Interstate 70, it is enjoyed by hordes of snowmobilers and backcountry ski ers visiting some of the many 10th Mountain Division huts in the area.

The only permitted guiding outfit here, Vail Powder Guides will take you to 4,000 acres of terrain

Most of the runs start in open bowls above timberline and end in dense pine forests.

Price: $850 per person or $6,800 for the entire snowcat. vailpowderguides.com

What to expect

• Guides who know the terrain and where to find the best snow

• Avalanche safety gear is typically provided

• Challenging terrain and conditions, recommended for strong intermediate and expert skiers only

• A lunch is usually provided

• If you don’t have wide powder skis, most companies offer rentals

• Snow conditions can be variable, and some companies will allow cancel lations if it’s been too warm or hasn’t snowed in too long

R Scott Rappold is an outdoors writer based in the San Luis Valley

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A skier enjoys fresh powder during a snowcat trip with provided by Purgatory Snowcat Adventures. Scott DW Smith, provided by Purgatory Snowcat Adventures

7 reasons to fall in love with Crested Butte

Crested Butte Mountain Resort might be the birthplace of inbounds extreme skiing but there are plenty more incredible ways to enjoy winter’s wonder in the Elk Mountains and Gunnison Valley. Plus, the valley is chock-full of recordsetting instructors and guides to help you stay safe and have fun along the way. It’s likely that someone in your group will head to the Butte for the slopes, but here are seven other ways travelers and locals alike enjoy the snowy season in this corner of southwest Colorado.

Winter fly fishing

Perhaps counterintuitive, winter can be one of the most serene times to cast a line. The metabolism of fish slows down

andtheydon’tmoveasaggressively,plus therearefeweranglersonthewaterthan inthepeakofsummer.Noteverysection of river freezes and some locations are open for fishing year-round including along the Gunnison Valley’s Taylor Riv er, a world-renowned trophy fishery in the ancestral lands of the Ute, where local Diné fly-fishing guide Erica Nelson first taught me to fly fish — donned in down jackets beneath our waders.

“Toss it like you mean it! But not too fast,” Nelson reminded me — right before the two flies caught the tippet and my semi-fluid overhead cast whiplashed through the air, forging a giant ball of knots. “Now you’re fishing!” Nelson laughed, helping me feel at ease with my clumsy technique, which is part of the process.

Nelson helps celebrate the less lus-

trouspartsofbeingonthewaterthrough her Awkward Angler Instagram (@awk wardangler) platform and podcast, a hilarious, insightful, and unapologetically authentic storytelling platform. She also elevates important, often challenging and stigmatized, human stories on the water.

An Orvis endorsed guide, Nelson is an ambassador for Brown Folks Fishing, a national organization of anglers led by Black, Indigenous and people of color to lowerbarriersofaccesstothesport.Nel son also co-founded REAL (Reconcile, Evolve, Advance, Lead) Consulting to address the racial equity and inclusion needs of organizations and has many cli ents in the outdoor industry, from Orvis to the Bowdoin College Outing Club.

When Crested Butte received nearly 100 inches of snow over the course of a

week last winter, Nelson was still fly fishing despite post-holing up to her waist to reach river water. Reach out to her for a guided adventure through Willowfly Anglers.

3riversresort.com/fishing, 970-641 1303, email@3riversresort.com

Sledding

If you and the kiddos or your closest pals want to head out for a simple day of sledding, one of the locals’ favorite hills isahikeable,safeslope(meaning,it’snot in an avalanche danger zone) on the north end of town. It’s on the south side of Pyramid Avenue between Eighth Street and County Road 317.

Another spot to go sledding is off Snodgrass Trailhead, but avoid driving

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Riders enjoy pedaling their fat bikes on a snowy trail at Hartman Rocks Recreation Area near Crested Butte.
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Provided by Meyvn Creative

there because the trailhead is crowded.

Starting Nov. 24, the free Snodgrass Trailhead Shuttle operates throughout the ski season running every 60 minutes Monday through Thursday and every 30 minutes from Friday to Sunday. Catch the shuttle at Mountaineer Square, which is at Crested Butte Mountain Resort, which you can reach from the town of Crested Butte via the Town Shuttle. The Mountain Express. www.mtnexp.org

Scenic flights with West Elk Air

Despite growing up in the region, I’d never done a scenic flight above the

Nelson also is the host of the Awkward Angler podcast and an ambassador for Brown Folks Fishing, a national organization of anglers led by Black, Indigenous and people of color to lower barriers of access to the sport.

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Guide Erica Nelson enjoys a day on the water in winter near Crested Butte. Photos by Courtesy of Erica Nelson
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mountains I’ve been navigating by foot and bike for years. Thanks to a newly launched helicopter company, that fact changed last fall and was incredibly worthwhile.

RaisedandstillbasedinGunnisonVal ley, Peter Smith secured his pilot’s license12yearsagoatBristowAcademy,a commercialhelicoptertrainingschoolin Concord, Calif. Smith was introduced to the field through his uncle, a former Vietnam helicopter pilot.

During his two-year period at the academy,Smithearnedprivateandcom mercial certificates as well as an instrument rating, which is essential for flying over mountainous areas and in variable

weather.

Over the past decade, all of Smith’s flight experience has been racked up over the peaks and valleys of the West. He has two fixed-wing planes, a Cessna 185 Skywagon and Cessna 180 Skywagon, and an Airbus As350 B3, the most power ful medium-sized helicopter that exists. The metal bird is built to operate at high altitude and performs heavy-duty work in the world’s highest mountains.

In late 2020, Smith launched West Elk Air, the highest elevation based helicop ter tour company in the United States. His days are often booked. He’s flown sightseers, hunters, photographers, avalanche forecasters, land managers and even ranchers looking for lost llamas.

“I’ve had everyone on flights from groups of young kids to elderly ladies to hunters, skiers, mountain bikers and Realtors. Seeing the Elk Mountains is diffi-

cult, especially if you don’t spend all your time here,” Smith said.

“You could also live here for years and not see it all. Flying quickly gives you a grasp of what’s out there. So many people want to come here and see the moun tains, and I love taking people out. All of the people we fly come back and are ec static.”

westelkair.com, 970-209-7244, west elkair@gmail.com

Fat biking

Crested Butte is recognized by many as the place where mountain biking was invented. It’s also home to pioneering fat bikers. There are more than 38 miles of groomed trails including singletrack and doublewide routes for fat bikers to enjoy throughout Gunnison Valley.

There’s another 40 miles of corduroy

routes west of town along Kebler Pass and Ohio Creek Roads.

First-timers can head to Town Ranch, a1.7 mileloop.Anothersolitaryandnon motorizedroutefollowsGothicRoadfor 3 miles. To experience groomed singletrack, venture south to Hartman Rocks Recreation Area.

You can pick up a fat bike rental at The AlpineerinCrestedButte(970 349 5210) or in Gunnison at Double Shot Cyclery (970-642-5411) or Rock N’ Rock Sports (970-641-9150).

“Hartmans isn’t a smooth riding experience in the summer but come winter, everything becomes magic carpet-y.

Among the trails we groom, I’m proud of Becks, a fan favorite trail in the summer, which is fantastic to ride groomed in the winter, up or down, and its character is

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A dumping of snow didn’t keep people indoors in Crested Butte on Jan. 12, 2017.
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Helen H Richardson, Denver Post file

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different,” said Tim Kugler, the executive director of Gunnison Trails, which manages the fat bike grooming at Hartman Rocks Recreation Area.

Snowmobiling

For 37 years, James and Kim Utt have owned and operated Burt Rentals Snowmobile Tours, a local adventure sled companythatoffersguidedtoursaround Crested Butte. Never-ever, novice and experienced snowmobilers can pick out a day trip that’s tailored to their skills and goals.

One of the most popular tours takes folks up Kebler Pass and on the groomed

Forest Service roads — which is the best way to get comfortable driving a sled — with optional powder riding in large open meadows and pristine scenery of steeppeaks,rollinghills,andsnow deco rated pines.

YoucanfindguidedtripsthroughBurt Rentals Snowmobiling and Action Ad ventures Snowmobiling. 970-349-5909, actionadventures.com

Nordic skiing

Known as Colorado’s Nordic ski capital, the Crested Butte Nordic Center grooms 30 miles of trails in and around town. The cross-country tracks were even voted Top 10 in the country by USA Todayin2020 Ifyou’veneverbeenNor dic skiing, consider taking a lesson to get the basics down. First, you’ll choose between classic and skate styles.

“Skate skiing is a lateral movement thatmimicsiceskatingandclassicskiing is a forward glide like walking, with one foot in front of the other. They’re both beautiful in their own ways but the per fect form of classic skiing cannot be beat and you’ll by default become a beautiful skate skier — but not the other way around,” said Jenn Vona, a local Nordic instructor with a Professional Ski In structors of America Level 3 certification.

Iventuredoutwithherformyfirstles son. Vona has been a Nordic instructor here for seven years. She picked up the sport after moving to town with her husband, Kevin Koval, known as Professor K, who is the Crested Butte Nordic School and Master Community programs coordinator

Vona taught me various techniques like the herringbone, which was helpful

for going up small hills, double and single poling, as well as how to tuck and use oneskioutsidethetracksoslowdown— lessons that are not very intuitive with skinny sticks beneath your feet! cbnordic.org, 970-349-1707, info@cbnor dic.org

Ice skating

A tad more than two blocks from downtownCrestedButteyoucanpullon ice skates and glide at the Big Mine Ice Arena. The 26,000-square-foot covered outdoor rink is owned and operated by the town.

Skate rentals are available next door at the Crested Butte Nordic Center. Adult skates rent for $25, and children’s skates are $15. The town schedules open skate times based on hockey meetups and

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People walk along the sidewalk in snowy downtown Crested Butte on Jan. 11, 2017. Helen H Richardson, Denver Post file

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grooming sessions, so be sure to check online at crestedbutteco.myrec.com or call the Nordic Center before your visit.

If You Go

Towarmupwithlibationsafterwinter play, don’t miss grabbing an artisan cocktail at The Dogwood, a cozy gathering place nestled in an old miner’s cabin off Elk Avenue. Also swing by the newly opened cocktail bar and tasting room of local rum company Montanya Distillers, which opens Wednesday through Sunday at 3 p.m. with last call at 9 p.m.

For a top-notch ambiance and delicious farm-to-table dishes, make a dinner reservation at the Breadery or Sunflower Otherwise,theone of a kindpiz zas at the iconic Secret Stash Pizza

always hit the spot.

For an overnight getaway in the town of Crested Butte, the quaint, historic Elk MountainLodgeoffersadelicioushome stylebreakfastbuffet.Theno frillslodge was built in 1919 as a miner’s hotel.

If you’re craving a luxurious, rejuvenating escape that’s not too far from town, head to the Taylor River Lodge, where you can stay in a private upscale cabin and experience a range of wellness treatments.

Thecabinshavepowerfulsteamshow ersandnutritious,locally sourcedmeals are served at a communal table in the lodge. You can also enjoy yoga class or the bathhouse with a saltwater pool, sau na, and hot tub And, of course, there suitable hotels in the village and other rentals about town.

Morgan Tilton is an outdoors writer based in the Gunnison Valley

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The scene at the Dogwood is comfortable and cool, and the cocktails are well crafted. Provided by Dogwood

Experience Vail’s Bavarian flair this winter

Looking for a quick getaway to a Euro pean mountain village? You can experi ence that without ever leaving the state, just head to Vail.

Stroll along the cobblestone streets of Vail Village, cross timbered bridges, view Bavarian styled buildings and dine on raclette and fondue for a taste of old world ambiance reminiscent of the al pine villages of Germany, Austria, Italy and Switzerland

Vail was designed to resemble an Al pine village, says Jen Mason, executive director of the Colorado Snow Sports Museum and Hall of Fame in Vail.

Many Colorado ski towns grew out of former mining towns and still reflect that Old West style, but Vail was pur pose built as a ski town with European influences.

Upon returning home from Europe af ter World War II, Mason explains, Pete Siebert and fellow 10th Mountain Divi sion soldiers sought mountain locations where they could build ski areas and towns reminiscent of those they found so beautiful in the Alps

The world renowned ski resort wasn’t even a blip on the map in 1957 when Siebert climbed to the top of what is now Vail Mountain (11,570 feet). He looked over the expansive back side into the wilderness and knew his search was over.

You can imagine his enthusiasm as that vantage point revealed what are now known as the seven “legendary back bowls of Vail ”

“You can’t talk about Colorado skiing without talking about the 10th Mountain Division,” Mason says.

Like Aspen, Arapahoe Basin and Key stone, Vail is the result of a passion for

skiing that developed during their founders’ Army training in Colorado and wartime service in the Alps.

At Vail, in particular, “People can see how this all (Vail Village) ties to Bavaria and how our roots came about,” Mason says

Ski instructors lured from Europe were among the first inhabitants of Vail Ski Resort when it opened in 1962. Re nowned Austrian ski racer Pepi Grams hammer and his wife, Sheika, who de scended from a family of Austrian inn keepers, built one of the first alpine inspired lodges and restaurants in 1964. They named it Gasthof Gramshammer, which translates from Austrian to “a house for guests ”

The exteriors of the Gasthof and other village buildings reveal intricate, carved wood features, wall paintings, detailed stone and plaster work, and other spe cial touches of alpine culture like the

flower filled window boxes that bright en the village in spring and summer

Nearby, the Faessler family has been fine tuning the guest experience at their Sonnenalp Hotel (sonnenalp.com) since opening its doors in 1979.

Proprietor Johannes Faessler came to Colorado as a teenager with his parents from Ofterschwang, Germany, where the extended family has been operating a hotel in the Bavarian Alps since the early 1900s.

They heard Colorado ski country was ripe for hotels like theirs and decided to make a go of it.

“We wanted to create a carbon copy of what we have done successfully in Ba varia and bring it here,” Faessler ex plains. Since they didn’t know how to source goods in America they brought everything with them linens, cur tains, uniforms, furniture, table settings,

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A crowd wanders from tent to tent at the Lamb Cookoff in Vail Village during the Taste of Vail. Photo by Zach Mahone, provided by Taste of Vail

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even the pictures on the walls. “We packed it up into big sea containers and shipped everything over from Ger many, then unpacked and rolled it out. It all fit perfectly.”

Over the years the Sonnenalp has enhanced its offerings to guests and developed what Faessler describes as “alpine culture meets Colorado style ” Faessler loves winter and the snow it brings to the slopes.

“I’m a big fan of ski racing, it’s an extraordinary event,” says the avid skier

The hotel has hosted German ski teams during World Cup events and always extends an invitation to dinner. The FIS Alpine World Ski Champion ships have been held in Vail or Beaver

Creek three times, in 1989, 1999 and 2015 This December, Beaver Creek will host three World Cup events in men’s Super G and downhill.

What began as a dream to create an alpine village in Colorado has evolved into something a lot bigger a world class mountain resort

But visitors can still experience the European vibe of Vail Village from old world charm to modern alpine ambiance.

Here’s a few places in Vail Village to get you started

Lodging

Sonnenalp Hotel and Spa: Elegant and luxurious, several on site restau rants; sonnenalp com Gasthof Grams hammer: comfortable and charming, on site restaurant; pepis.com Christi ania at Vail: small Bavarian styled lodge; destinationhotels.com/christi VAIL » 31W

Touches of alpine design appear throughout the Gasthof Gramshammer, including large ceiling beams and plaster details. Astrid Carraro, provided by Gasthof Gramshammer

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People sit at tables outside Pepi’s Bar & Restaurant at the Hotel Gasthof Gramshammer in Vail. Provided by Gasthof Gramshammer
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ania vail/hote

Dining

Pepi’s: Choose the outdoor deck at Pepi’s for aprés ski (try to snag a seat in the heated patio section) Choose from a variety of Austrian beers or specialty drinks and pair it with bison bratwurst. pepis.com/pepis restaurant and bar

Swiss Chalet: Treat yourself to au thentic Swiss cheese fondues and ra clette For fans of the real thing, special ty cheeses are imported from Switzer land. Great pairings from the Wine Spectator award winning wine list are all but guaranteed sonnenalp.com/din ing/swiss chalet

AlpenRose: Specializing in small de tails that enhance a diner’s experience, there is ambiance aplenty here. You’ll feel content eating a pretzel and beer

but there’s so much more to try This gem keeps the “old Vail” charm alive while serving authentic family Austri an Bavarian recipes. alpenrose vail.com

Fun in Vail Village

Colorado Snowsports Museum and Hall of Fame: Entrance is complimen tary to this fascinating look at Colorado snowsports Discover the story of the 10th Mountain Division Soldiers here You’ll see authentic uniforms, exhibits of skis and other memorabilia from the beginning of Vail to modern day. snows portsmuseum.org

Vail Mountain Opening Day is set for Nov 11 (The earliest opening day ever!)

Vail celebrates its 60th Vail will cele brate its 60th year on Dec. 15, and a big bash is planned Festivities and special events will be plentiful as Vail Mountain takes a modern twist on the Vintage Vail of 1962. Watch for details online. vail.com

Vail Village was designed to resemble an alpine town. Vail’s roots go back to Pete Siebert and fellow 10th Mountain Division soldiers who returned after World War II and sought mountain locations where they could build ski areas and towns.

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The alpine architecture of Vail Village is apparent on a snowy day outside the Gastof Gramshammer. Photos provided by Gasthof Gramshammer

Treff Care at the Sonnenalp in Vail. The Faessler family came to Vail from Germany and opened the Sonnenalp Hotel in 1979. The extended family has been operating a hotel in the Bavarian Alps since the early 1900s. Photos provided by Sonnenalp

The architecture in Vail Village is modeled after alpine villages of Europe, including that of the Sonnenalp hotel.
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The alpine design influence is apparent at the Bully Ranch patio at the Sonnenalp and other businesses in Vail Village.

10 reasons to head to Leadville this winter

If you’re like most Front Range resi dents, you know the ins and outs of Breckenridge, Keystone and Vail in winter. This season, why not head to Leadville instead?

This mountain town has a rich histo ry, is home to one of a kind gems and some wonderful skiing, too Regulars know about its special attractions Af ter your first visit, you may wonder if they’ve been holding out on you. (Of course they have!)

Horace Tabor the “Silver King” helped turn Leadville into a booming mining town in the 1870s and later served as the state’s lieutenant gover nor before losing his fortune in the

1890s following the “silver bust” the repeal of the Sherman Silver Purchase Act. Several historical structures here still bear his name

The infamous “Unsinkable” Molly Brown, a survivor of the Titanic disas ter, lived in Leadville from 1886 until 1894. She married a mining engineer and they prospered here

Leadville also is said to have been be a stop for Jesse James, Wyatt Earp and John Henry “Doc” Holliday.

Whether you want to immerse your self in the history of the Old West, ski some of the least-crowded slopes in the state, or simply revel in the small town hospitality, you will not regret making your way to Leadville this winter.

Here are some of the best things to do while you are in town

Ski at Cooper, the “local’s mountain”

The slopes at Ski Cooper, known fondly as the “local’s mountain,” fea ture an average of 260 inches of natural snow each year and attract a friendly crowd of skiers and snowboarders It’s a great spot for families, as lift prices are low and there’s fun for everyone on these 480 acres.

Skiers and riders looking for more challenging terrain can catch a ride on a snowcat Not one for the slopes? Grab a pint at Katie O’Rourke’s Irish Pub while the rest of your party heads down the mountain.skicooper.com

Après-ski where “Doc” Holliday gambled

What makes Leadville so special are the quaint downtown’s hidden gems.

One such place is the Silver Dollar Sa loon, where it’s said “Doc” Holliday would try his luck at cards when he was in town and play the black piano still sitting at the back of the saloon

Formerly known as the Hymam Sa loon, the Silver Dollar features the original bar from the 1880s and the windbreak which keeps out both the blowing, cold temperatures in winter and prying eyes.

It’s said the windbreak kept wives from seeing their husbands on their midday visits back in the day, perhaps saving a few frontier marriages 315 Harrison Ave ; 719 486 9914, legend arysilverdollarsaloon.com

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Marvin Wells stops to take in the view of Mount Massive as he walks his dog, Shila, in Leadville on March 1. Helen H Richardson, Denver Post file

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Grab a Mellie

In case you’ve been living under a rock for the past decade and didn’t know, Leadville is home to Melanzana, an outdoor apparel company with avid fans. Its popularity has rapidly grown, despite the company only selling its gear, such as the highly sought after micro grid hoodies, at one store in this high country town Melanzana uses only parts and fabric made in the Unit ed States.

The company’s founders are known for supporting local businesses and providing a sustainable and healthy workplace for staff The shop is worth a visit while you’re in town just re member to make an appointment first! 716 Harrison Ave.; 719 486 3245, melan zana.com

Skiing not your thing? Try tubing! Not everyone skis or snowboards, but there’s still downhill fun to be had The Dutch Henry Tubing Hill in Lead ville is a great place to zip down a mountainside. Bring your own tube or rent one here and ride the hills to ex haustion.

999 S Colorado 24; lakecountyco com/ recreation/pages/dutch henry tubing hill

Ski or snowshoe to a gourmet meal

There are not many places you can hike or ski to in the dead of winter and enjoy a four course gourmet meal, so don’t pass up the chance to experience the Tennessee Pass Nordic Center and Cookhouse in Leadville While lunch is a la carte, dinner is a fixed menu After a pleasant 1 mile hike in, you’re greeted by warm candlelight and a wood stove at the Cookhouse, which sits off grid at 10,800 feet The chef provides favorite

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A racer holds on tight during a skijoring run in downtown Leadville in March 2020. File photo by Daniel Brenner, Special to The Denver Post
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Marc Ruble takes a group out for a ride with Alpine Adventures near Leadville. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file

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appetizers and desserts, with a main course of braised elk rack, duck leg confit, or a vegetarian or vegan option tennesseepass com/nordic center

Dog sledding

Get out on the trails to view some of Colorado’s tallest peaks without break ing a sweat by hopping on a sled and letting your new canine companions get a workout. There are several area companies to choose from, and some even allow you to drive the team. This is a great way for people of all abilities to get into the outdoors; kids especially love this experience

Nordic ski, snowshoe or fat bike

Lake County is home to nearly 100 miles of groomed trails for cross coun try skiing. The 12 mile Mineral Belt Trail traverses the old mining district, providing incredible scenery and a look into local history Most of the trails also are open to snowshoers and fat bikers

Find some fun on ice skates

Leadville boasts the highest, man made ice rink in Colorado at Huck Finn Ice Rink.

You can rent skates here or bring your own to have fun on the 30,000 square foot outdoor rink There’s a warming hut with snacks and hot co coa, and a fire pit nearby

Skating is dependent on the weather and the rink usually is open December

to March 445 Maple St ; lakecounty co com/recreation/pages/huck finn ice rink

Head up to the top of Colorado’s tallest peak

Topping at 14,433 feet, Mount Elbert is Colorado’s highest peak. In the sum mer, the north ridge trail is the most common route and can be crowded with hikers, even midweek. There are far fewer hikers in winter At 14 miles roundtrip, this hike is no easy feat and should always be done with caution and a keen eye on the weather and ava lanche conditions

If you make it to the summit, though, the views are endless and unforgetta ble.

Step back in time

Learn details about stories you first

heard in grade school Leadville is home to the National Mining Hall of Fame and Museum, which shares tales of the hunt for gold and silver in Colo rado as well as the story of the nearby Climax mine, the world’s largest re source of molybdenum You’ll learn about the minerals you encounter every day and what life was like for the area’s pioneers.

The Heritage Museum and Gallery, built in 1904 to house the city library, now is home to all sorts of Leadville memorabilia, including mining and 10th Mountain Division artifacts as well as a scale model of the world’s largest palace of ice, built in Leadville in 1896

mininghalloffame org; leadville com/ the leadville heritage museum and gallery

Snowshoer Keely Sugden of Englewood and friends make their way along a trail toward a 10th Mountain Division hut in the forest near Leadville.
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Helen H Richardson, Denver Post file

Historic hotels are a great base camp for winter fun

Winter lodgings in Colorado come at just about every price point and design style, so why not make a hotel with his tory part of your winter skiing or sled ding or soaking experience? No matter where you travel this winter, there’s fun to be had and a hotel created by a vision ary Old West pioneer that’s ready to welcome you.

Aspen

The Hotel Jerome was built in 1889. What is today part of the Auberge Re sorts Collection started out as one of many local investments by Jerome B. Wheeler, a mine owner who had done well when silver was booming. The ho tel was known for its state of the art luxuries: electric lighting, indoor

plumbing (both hot and cold running water), and an elevator.

About the time that Aspen Skiing Co. was getting established in the early 1940s, there were 10th Mountain Divi sion soldiers training on the ski slopes and heading to the bar at the Hotel Je rome for a drink. The hotel has a reputa tion for providing comfort in style. This luxury comes at a price: You’ll need to budget at least $800 per night The hotel features an outdoor heated pool, room service, and your pick of on site restau rants.

The Hotel Jerome can be your base camp for hitting the nearby slopes, snowshoeing through the forest, and even winter fishing Guests have access to a ski concierge and a shuttle to all four local ski areas Aspen Mountain, Aspen Highlands, Buttermilk and SnowHISTORIC » 37W

The Hotel Jerome in Aspen has been known for its luxuries for more than 125 years. Murphy O'Brien, provided by Auberge Resorts
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Unit 301 at the Palace Hotel in Salida, which was built by Ambrose Ramsey in 1906. Common spaces and many individual units retain original features mixed with modern appliances. Provided by Pinon Vacation Rentals

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mass. Be sure to ask the concierge about the hotel’s partnerships with snowmo bile guides, snowshoe tours and horse drawn carriage rides

330 E Main St , Aspen; aubergere sorts.com/hoteljerome

Durango

Welcome to Smelter City! That was one of Durango’s original names when it was founded in the early 1880s as a hub for miners hoping to get rich off the gold and silver in the surrounding moun tains As the city grew, so too did inter est in making it a little nicer than just a railroad stop.

Cleveland pharmacist Henry Strater headed West with his family and a vi sion and built the Strater Hotel. Unfor tunately, when silver went bust so did Strater’s fortunes, and the 88 room ho

tel changed hands the first of a few times

The Strater Hotel maintains some of its original character with Victorian bedroom sets, ornate wallpapers and classic high ceilings. Choose among three on site restaurants and bars for your après ski time Rent cross country skis in town and head to Mesa Verde National Park, about an hour’s drive away, to glide through the snow and view the cliff dwellings from the trail.

Plan a visit around the Durango & Sil verton Narrow Gauge Railroad’s annual Polar Express Train Ride where you and the kids will meet Santa Claus, or book a Cascade Canyon Winter Train trip. Pur gatory Ski Resort is just 30 minutes away, with slopes for skiing and snow boarding, a winter mountain coaster and snowcat tours.

699 Main Ave., Durango; strater.com

Ouray

Ouray has a few vintage hotels to

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The New Sheridan Hotel in Telluride was built in 1895 and renovated in 2008 by British designer Nina Campbell. The carved mahogany bar remains. Provided by New Sheridan Hotel The Strater Hotel in Durango has changed hands over the years, but many of its period details remain, inside and out.
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Joe Amon, Denver Post file

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choose from for your base camp, but the Western Hotel will be freshly renovated and reopened this winter

The Western was built in 1891 as a boarding house for miners. Denver based Zeppelin Hospitality bought it in 2020.

The 16 suite wood frame hotel main tains many original touches, including a mural on the floor of the saloon which also has a hand carved bar, tin ceilings and stained glass panels.

The hotel was built by John Johnstone, a local businessman who specialized in buggies and owned a blacksmith shop, and Fred Mayol, who had some hotel ex perience. The grand re opening is scheduled for December (check online for new rates)

Ouray is perhaps best known for its Ice Park and annual ice climbing festival (Jan. 20 23, 2023), which includes events off the ice and climbing clinics for all skill levels

Alpine skiers looking for steeps need to be experienced in the backcountry and can arrange heli skiing and snowcat trips.

There are local snowmobile tours and, of course, soaks in the natural hot springs of the town pool, Ouray Hot Springs, after you’ve spent the day working out on the snow and ice. Locals know that even though Ouray doesn’t have a ski resort, it does have Lee’s Ski Hill. It’s free, totally dependent on snowfall, and features a tow rope for your uphill trips

When making a reservation at the Western Hotel, ask about special part nerships or activity packages for guests. 210 7th Ave., Ouray; thewester nouray.com

Telluride

If you’re wondering why something with “new” in the name is considered a vintage hotel, it’s because the first Sheridan Hotel in Telluride burned in 1894, but was rebuilt using bricks in 1895.

The New Sheridan’s 26 rooms were remodeled in 2008 and boast modern

comforts with classic charm Winter rates hover around $350 per night, but spike near holidays.

When you aren’t hunting fresh pow der on the slopes, start your day in the hotel’s Parlor (the lobby) where you can get coffee and watch the town go by from the front windows The main res taurant here is The Chop House.

Even if you don’t ski, take the 13 min ute ride on the free gondola to Moun tain Village the views! In addition to hitting the slopes, there are three rinks for ice skating (two outdoor, one in door), cross country skiing, snowshoe ing, fat tire biking and ice climbing.

231 W. Colorado Ave., Telluride; news heridan.com

Salida

Salida’s historic Palace Hotel isn’t ex actly a hotel anymore: the building is now a collection of independently owned condominiums that are rented out via a vacation rental company. How ever, you’d hardly notice the difference, as the building and many of the suites maintain their original charm

The Palace Hotel was built by Ambro

se Ramsey in 1906 and went through a few owners over the years, but each seemed to value the attention to detail of the original and it has maintained the ambience of the past. There is no eleva tor here so you can enjoy those beauti ful wooden bannisters as you walk up and down the staircase Rates vary, but expect to pay $150 $300 a night, depend ing on the season.

There are plenty of great local bars and restaurants within easy walking dis tance

There is an indoor hot springs pool in town, and Mount Princeton Hot Springs, with its larger and hotter natu ral springs and pools, offers outdoor soaking next to a river just 30 minutes away

Monarch Mountain is a 30 minute drive from downtown Salida where you can enjoy a day of affordable skiing, rid ing or snowtubing.

204 N F St , Salida; palacehotelsalida.com/suites/?home type id=7178

Winter rates vary and peak every where around the holidays, even at the more budget friendly hotels, so be sure to plan ahead

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The J Bar at the Hotel Jerome is a popular gathering spot for visitors and locals. Provided by Auberge Resorts

6 favorite winter hiking trails in Colorado

You might be wondering what the difference is between winter hiking and snowshoeing in Colorado. There are some similarities in these two activities as well as some distinctions you can make as you are preparing to go out in the snow for a day of quiet trail exploration.

When there is alpine skiing so close, as well as Nordic skiing, hiking might seem like an odd choice of activity, or at least out of season. There are a lot of benefits to hiking in the winter: fewer people on the trails, hibernating bugs and wildlife so you don’t have to contend with them, and the benefits of intense exercise.

For ideal snowshoeing, you want deep snowthatisnoticyontop.However,you don’t want to sink in that snow. You also don’t want to end up scraping mud and rocks with the bottoms of your snow shoes. Snowshoeing in fresh powder can be a blast, but depending on the amount of snowfall, it can be quite a workout, too.

One challenge I often find with snow shoeing in Colorado is a mix of conditions on a single trail. I often start out snowshoeing and then end up carrying my ’shoes for a while because there isn’t enough snow in spots, or the trail gets too narrow or steep to navigate.

For ideal winter hiking, you want to avoid trails that are getting a lot of sun as they might get icy or muddy. With the proper gear, such as microspikes attached to your boots, a trail that holds snow will be best for your hike.

Hiking basics like water, sunglasses, sunscreen, and a safety plan are still essentialsinwinter,alongwiththewarmer layers you’ll be wearing. Hiking poles can be helpful when hiking in winter to test the depth of snow and to help you tackle inclines.

Snowshoeing and winter hiking require basic avalanche safety awareness, such as recognizing and evaluating the pitchofsurroundingmountains.Consid er taking a class in avalanche preparedness and safety and check with the land management agency such as the National Park Service, Colorado State Parks, lo cal county open space, or the U.S. Forest Service to get the latest avalanche condi tions in your trail area.

The Colorado Avalanche Information Centercanalsoprovidedetailsonplaces of high risk.

Consider these trails for your next winter hiking adventure:

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Snowshoers make their way to Lost Lake on the Hessie Trail, which is wide for most of the way and flanked by trees.
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Mindy Sink, Special to The Denver Post

Mountain Lion Trail, Golden Gate Canyon State Park

Distance: 6.7 miles

Type: Loop

Features: While considered difficult, thanks to the undulating hills (another way of saying this hike is really steep in spots!), this trail does have some relatively flat stretches. A thick forest of ev ergreen trees makes this trail particularly pretty after a fresh snowfall.

Dogs are permitted on all trails in the park, but must be on a 6-foot leash at all times. Enjoy the views!

Catch the trail at the Nott Creek trailhead off Crawford Gulch Road. For a shorter hike (just over a mile), there’s a logical turnaround when Mountain Lion intersectswiththeBurroTrailattheser vice road.

Red Rock Lake, Brainard Lake Recreation Area

Distance: 1 mile

Type: out-and-back

Features: In the winter, the road into the Brainard Lake Recreation Area trailheads is closed. The closed road can be hiked, walked, snowshoed, and even skied on, depending on conditions.

It is 2 miles from the lower, or winter, parking lot to Brainard Lake, and then another mile or so to the parking lots for MitchellLakeandLakeIsabelle.Youcan choose to hike to these further destinations, or keep it simple and take the Colorado Mountain Club trail to the left of the guard station and head west. You might be sharing the trail with skiers and snowshoers.

Pretty quickly you reach Red Rock Lake, which in the summer is nearly filled with lily pads. There is always the option of coming back on the road if the snow is too deep and challenging.

Dogs are allowed only on the Brainard Lake and Lefthand Park Reservoir roads in winter. Fees are not required in winter.

Lost Lake via Hessie Trail

Distance: 4 miles

Type: out-and-back

Features: There might be an additional half mile or so to this trail, depending on where you can park in the winter as the dirt road on the edge of Eldora does close at some point, and this area can be popular with hikers. You’ll have some creek crossings and a waterfall en route to the turnoff for Lost Lake.

For the most part, the trail is wide and flanked by trees. The last half-mile up to the lake is narrower and tree-covered so likely to be pretty snowy. I’ve done this

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Hiking to Lost Lake on the Hessie Trail. Mindy Sink, Special to The Denver Post

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hikeinfreshpowderandhadtheplaceto myself! Leashed dogs are welcome.

Historic Cabin Trail at Staunton State Park

Distance: 2 miles

Type: balloon

Features: By taking two trails, you can do both an out and back and a loop here Starting at the main parking lot, take the Staunton Ranch trail for about 1 mile,

then go left at the Historic Cabin trail.

Interpretative signs will teach you about the history of this park — some parts were formerly ranchland — and the preserved buildings. This trail will loop back to the Staunton Ranch trail in less than a mile, and you will head back the way you came.

Dogs are allowed, but they must be kept on a 6-foot leash at all times.

Discovery & Challenger Trails at Bonfils Stanton Foundation Outdoor Center in Winter Park

Distance: 1.5 miles

Type: loop

Features: Right across from the en trancetoWinterParkResortyou’llfinda parking area for trailheads within the Bonfils-Stanton Foundation Outdoor Center boundaries. Hidden under the snow is a wooden boardwalk which makes this a handicap-accessible trail in summer and keeps the trail from getting too muddy in winter.

This is a drainage area so it’s recommended that you stay on the trail to avoid marshy spots. Tall pine trees filter out sunlight and noise, giving the fallen snow that exquisite hush as you hike.

Zook and Blackmer trails at Cheyenne Mountain State Park, Colorado Springs

Distance: 4.5 miles

Type: Loop

Features: This moderate trail that leads you from prairie grasses and scrub oaks to a rock garden and then into the ponderosa pine forest. It’s on the eastern flank of Cheyenne Mountain, which often means icy or muddy conditions will dryoutherelongbeforetheywillonoth er area trails.

Start on the Zook Loop near the main parking area and catch the Medicine

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Hiking to Lost Lake on the Hessie Trail. There are creek crossings and a waterfall en route to the turnoff for Lost Lake. For the most part, the trail is wide and flanked by trees. Mindy Sink, Special to The Denver Post

The hike to Red Rock Lake in Brainard Lake Recreation Area. You might be sharing the trail with skiers and snowshoers.

Hiking to Red Rock Lake in Brainard Lake Recreation Area. There is no fee in the winter.

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Wheel Spur to the Blackmer Loop. You can add nearly a mile by taking Cougar’s Shadow at the “top” of the hike.

Dogs aren’t allowed on this trail, but are welcome on a group of looping trails

nearthecampgrounds.Wildturkeysand deer abound here and there’s a prairie dog colony off the adjacent Sundance Trail. Before you set out, remember that theshorterdaysofwintermeanyouhave less time to hike so start as early as you can. One of the highlights of a winter hike can be seeing a familiar spot cov ered in fresh, white snow as it changes the landscape seasonally.

The hike to Red Rock Lake in Brainard Lake Recreation Area. In the winter, the road into the Brainard Lake Recreation Area trailheads is closed. The closed road can be hiked, walked, snowshoed, and even skied on, depending on conditions.
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Photos by Mindy Sink, Special to The Denver Post

Get out and hike this winter!

Above: The hike to Red Rock Lake in Brainard Lake Recreation Area. In the winter, the road into the Brainard Lake Recreation Area trailheads is closed. The closed road can be hiked, walked, snowshoed, and even skied on, depending on conditions.

Left:

Below:

Mountain Lion trail at Golden Gate Canyon State Park. A thick forest of evergreen trees makes this trail particularly pretty after a fresh snowfall. Mountain Lion trail at Golden Gate Canyon State Park. Right: Mountain Lion trail at Golden Gate Canyon State Park. Photos by Mindy Sink, Special to The Denver Post
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DENVER

Get out and hike this winter!

Elk Falls in Staunton State Park, Pine. Luckily Elk Falls is within an hour's drive of Denver, because the hike is going to take a while. It's nearly 11 miles to get to the waterfall and back to your car, so plan for a long day and potentially changing weather conditions.

Hidden under the snow is a wooden boardwalk which makes this a handicap-accessible trail in summer and keeps the trail from getting too muddy in winter. This is a drainage area so it’s recommended that you stay on the trail to avoid marshy spots. Tall pine trees filter out sunlight and noise, giving the fallen snow that exquisite hush as you hike.

Keith Festag, Special to The Denver Post Discovery & Challenger Trails at Bonfils-Stanton Foundation Outdoor Center in Winter Park. Mindy Sink, Special to The Denver Post Discovery & Challenger Trails at Bonfils-Stanton Foundation Outdoor Center in Winter Park.
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Mindy Sink, Special to The Denver Post

Embrace an A-frame state of mind

You’ll want to pack your best color blockskisuitbeforecheckingintoWinter Park’snewesthotel.TheA FrameClub which is actually a collection of 31 cabins shaped like equilateral triangles may be new, but the theme is decidedly retro. ThinkanA framecabinwithaloftedbed room that’s anchored by a colorful Malm fireplace and accented with cedarwood panels and a globe floor lamp Then, throw in some trail maps and magazines that have a rounded Cooper typeface to hint they’re from a groovier era.

“The vibe we’re going for is that 1970s, old Colorado ski culture mixed with a lit tle European après flair,” says Adam Lar key, the chief operating officer at Zeppe lin Development, a Denver based firm that’sbreakingintothehighcountryhotel sector. (Atpresstime,thecabinswereon track for a December opening )

Thenewlifestylehotelfitssquarely(or, rather, triangularly) into a broader travel trend:A frameshavebeentrendingonva cation booking platforms like Airbnb for the last several years as they embrace re cent design trends, namely tiny homes meets mid century mania (Ben Rahm’s photo driven book “The Modern A Frame”showsthecrossoverwell.)They’re also cute in their simplicity and dial up nostalgia to a post World War II era of prosperity when Americans started buy ing weekend homes near lakes, in moun tain towns and tucked away in forests.

“I think the appeal of A frames, above anything else, is that the imagery is one that’s associated with leisure time,” says AmirAmeri,aprofessorattheUniversity of Colorado Denver’s College of Archi tecture and Planning.

It’strue:A Framesaremadeforcharm ing mountain vacations, with their steep roofs pointing at blue winter skies and large windows letting in the alpenglow. Buttheseeasy to constructcabinsactual lyhaveutilitarianorigins,Ameriexplains. Before Austrian born Rudolph Schindler built an “all roof” home in Lake Arrow head, Calif , A frame cabins in Switzer land were designed to help heavy snow slideoffthesteeplypitchedroofs,hesays. Yet triangle shaped dwellings date to an cient Japan and Polynesia.

Looking to book a cabin getaway this winter? These stays earn an easy A

A-Frame Club

Theclubissituatedona2 acrewooded site that’s bordered by the Fraser River Elevated slightly on piers, the cabins are connectedbyboardwalks,andtheycome with individual decks. Each 475 square

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A classic A-frame cabin on a creek near Grand Lake that is available for short-term rental on Airbnb. Provided by Airbnb
This A-frame near Bailey is available for rent via Airbnb and includes a outdoor hot tub. Provided by Airbnb

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foot A frame includes a kitchenette and lofted bedroom that’s outfitted with an Onsen stylesoakingtub.Tallwindowslet thelightin TheLodgebarandrestaurant is in a historic saloon building Ask the bartender to make you a Harvey Wall banger after a day on the slopes.

From $550 a night

A-Frame with panoramic views

The tip of this A frame near Jefferson peaksoutfromthetreesinfrontofit,with undulatingmountainsinthebackground. Behind the red front door, a spiral stair case leads to a lofted bedroom. Patterned tiles and a retro refrigerator pop in the kitchen Take in the views from a hot tub

Average rate: $244 a night

Classic Colorado A-frame in Grand Lake

Close to Grand Lake and Rocky Moun tain National Park, this stylish A frame has been one of the most popular Airbnb rentals in Colorado Tongue and groove wall paneling is juxtaposed with modern

furnishings in this light filled cabin that’s biggerthanmostA frames(itcanaccom modate 12 guests) Tucked away in trees, thecabinhaslargedecksoffthefrontand back and is outfitted with Adirondack chairs and portable fire pit.

Average rate: $297 a night

Renovated A-frame with hot tub

An hour outside of Denver and nestled in ponderosa pines, the well designed A frame rental near Bailey has a spacious deck, propane fire pit and modern interi or with cheerful patterns on the tiles and rugs. (The cabin was once featured on HGTV.) Soak and stargaze in the cedar tub after exploring local trails or playing disc golf on the nearby course Keep an eye out for wildlife; deer are known to drop by.

Average rate: $258 a night

Off-Grid A-Frame in Westcliffe

This off grid, solar and wind powered A framechalethasgreatviewsoftheSan gredeCristoMountainsfromitsperchat 8,400feet.Alargedeckisperfectforstar gazing in this Dark Sky designated desti nation Inside, find a rainbow of colors andcheerfulpatterns,plusaclawfoottub.

Average rate: $216 a night

This

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This A-frame near Jefferson offers panoramic views. Provided by Airbnb
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off grid A frame near Westcliffe offers wonderful views of the Sangre de Cristos and dark skies for stargazing. Provided by Airbnb

Warm up in these 10 cozy bars and restaurants

Much in the way that hats and scarves warm one’s outside when the air turns frigid,barswithfireplacesandhotdrinks are the best places to close out cold days.

When not cozying up around the hearth at home, a handful of haunts around Colorado are ideal for toasty libations and nibbles in the winter. Here are 10 of our favorites.

The Crown, Breckenridge

HometooneofBreck’smostappealing patios on summer mornings and afternoons, The Crown is also one of the re sort town’s coziest après-ski/evening haunts in winter.

Located on the south end of Main Street, the unassuming upstairs coffee shop has a menu of “hot boozy drinks.” These include mainstays like the Irish coffee and hot toddy (made with locally distilled Breckenridge bourbon, of course) as well as the sweet tooth sooth ing Tootsie Roll (hot chocolate with chocolate whiskey), Warm Apple Pie (Fireball whiskey, vanilla vodka and apple cider) and others. Also on the menu here: homemade cinnamon rolls.

The place is illuminated by rustic-chic hanging lanterns and an old chandelier. The best spot to curl up with your cup and catch up on the day’s antics is the couch next to the gas fireplace. You just might fall asleep there if you stop by after a day on the slopes.

The Crown is open until 8 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

215 S Main St , Suite L, Breckenridge; th ecrownbreckenridge.com

Ski Tip Lodge, Keystone

A full evening experience to reserve well in advance, the Ski Tip is not simply a place for a warm nightcap but rather an extended dining experience that culminates in a scrumptious final course by the fireside.

Originally the site of a stagecoach stop for miners seeking gold in the 1860s, the lodgewaspurchasedandruninthe1940s by Max and Edna Dercum, who also helped found and run the Arapahoe Basin and Keystone ski areas. The historic building still operates as a bed and breakfast, with nine rooms and suites.

Ski Tip’s multi-course fine dining extravaganza begins with hot soup and includes a rotating selection of locally sourcedsalads,appetizersandentreesas well as a sizable wine list. Then comes the dessert selection, also changing seasonally, but always including its winning mainstay, apple strudel. Dessert is served in the fireside lounge, ensuring that you leave with rosy cheeks, warm in

side and out.

Keystone Resort, keystoneresort.com

The Forge Publick House, Fort Collins

There’s something alluring about sitting fireside on a cold night, surrounded by red-brick walls. The Forge is one of Fort Collins’ best-kept secrets.

TuckedintoOldFirehouseAlleyinthe heart of historic downtown, it’s a lively gathering place year-round with its bounty of obscure and always changing craft beers on draft, hard seltzer, wine and nonalcoholic options, board game collection and live music lineup.

Imagine an old English pub vibe (after all, “pub” is short for public house) — cozy, padded high-back chairs and lounges, bookshelves and the aforemen tioned fireplace, which looks as if it could still be used to forge metal tools.

The best feature of this hidden haunt, however, is its decadent grilled cheese sandwiches and homemade pie If you’re lucky, the day’s fresh pie will be apple with a bubbling cheddar cheese crust.

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Patrons enjoy the cozy atmosphere at the Williams & Graham in Denver. Kathryn Scott, Special to The Denver Post, file
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The Crown in Breckenridge offers a full menu of “hot boozy drinks” and cinnamon rolls. Ross Cole, provided by The Crown DENVER DENVERPOST.COM

255 Firehouse Alley, Fort Collins; theforgepublickhouse com

License No. 1, Boulder

Situated below the Hotel Boulderado, License No. 1 emanates a 1920s speak easy ambience with its wood-paneled walls and bar shelves lined with booze and books.

The bar is unquestionably classier than it was during its days as catacombs. The cocktails are short and strong and the place hosts a double performance of live comedy every Thursday as well as live music several days a week.

The pub fare also hits the spot when you’re craving comfort food, but there are also a couple of farm fresh salads to remind you that you’re not underground forever.

2115 13th St.; license1boulderado.com

King’s Club, Vail

No membership is required for this stately yet inviting lounge located in Vail’s Sonnenalp Hotel. There are plush chairs in every corner, including at the bar and surrounding the piano, which is often rolling under the fingertips of a local musician on weekend evenings. The warmvibeiscappedbyarcheddoorways and a fire in the stone fireplace.

Some days a guitarist entertains while on others a band is playing everyone’s après favorites. Given the Sonnenalp’s Bavarian roots, a German Hefeweizen feels appropriate here, but the place is also famous for its mudslide martinis. For true belly warming, there’s a long list of whiskeys, Scotch and cognac, plus a small food menu and decadent dessert options.

20 Vail Road, Vail; sonnenalp.com/dining/kings-club

The Living Room, Hotel Jerome, Aspen

The Jerome crowd typically piles up in the hotel’s J Bar, but you may prefer a co zier option, The Living Room. Situated off the main lobby, The Living Room’s vibe is homey — interesting paintings, side lamps and dim lighting.

It’s possible to get any of the J Bar’s nibbles here as well as a selection of fancy bites (foie gras, tuna belly, beef tartare). The menu’s champion offerings, however, are its hot cocktails, which are tasty and complex, often sprinkled with spices and sometimes 24K gold.

330 E. Main St., Aspen; aubergeresorts.com/hoteljerome

The Great Room, Ritz Carlton Bachelor Gulch, Beaver Creek

Whether or not you’re staying at the Ritz-Carlton Bachelor Gulch, the couch

closest to The Great Room’s towering stone fireplace is Beaver Creek’s coziest après-ski spot.

Freshlyrenovated,thespaciouslounge features high ceilings, wood beams, rustic chandeliers and deep, cushy sofas with pillows to be arranged in just the right configuration.

The temptation to nap is strong, but live music in the evenings will help keep youawake Ifyou’renottransfixedbythe fire, the sweeping views of the slopes pair perfectly with gourmet munchies (fondue, anyone?) and a glass of red.

0130 Daybreak Ridge, Avon; ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/colorado/bachelor gulch

The Study, Hotel Teatro, Denver

Located in the formidable Hotel Teatro within Denver’s historic Tramway Building, The Study is a less-frequented corner of comfort in which to kick back on a cold winter day or night.

Although you have to order next door at The Nickel, The Study, lined in book shelves, is set up for private sipping in high-back chairs or family style in front of the fireplace. A barrel-aged cocktail fits well with the mood, particularly the flavorful Nickel Negroni.

1100 14th St., Denver; hotelteatro com/ dining

Williams

& Graham, Denver

AthrowbacktothebygoneProhibition era, Williams & Graham is a speakeasy

styled cocktail bar disguised as a bookshop. Accessed through a secret door amid shelves, the lounge is dark and classy, its red walls illuminated by dim electric candles and hooded lamps.

The Libations menu is long and features classic cocktails as well as seasonal inspirations, all with fun names and a

creative mix of ingredients, including numerousnonalcoholicoptions.Inaddi tion to its clever drinks, Williams & Graham also offers a selection of flavorful dishes, ranging from bone marrow to burgers, vegan flatbread to sweet des-

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BARS
The Fire & Ice cocktail at the Hotel Jerome in Aspen. Flaming over-proofed rum gets poured on top with a sprinkle of cinnamon to make it sparkle. Provided by Hotel Jerome
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You can look out at the snowy landscape from the comforts of the Great Room at the Ritz-Carlton Bachelor Gulch in Beaver Creek. Provided by Ritz Carlton Bachelor Gulch

BARS

serts.

3160 Tejon St., Denver; williamsandgraham.com

Upstairs Wine Bar, Colorado Springs

One of the best-kept secrets in Colorado Springs, this wine bar masquerades as a French bakery (La Baguette) most of the time, but opens in the evenings on Thursdays (sometimes),FridaysandSaturdaystoservefreshbreads, inspired small plates, desserts and an impressive selection of reds and whites (dozens offered by the glass).

The best way to try them is in a flight or two, ideally while reclining on the worn leather sofa in front of the fireplace.

2417 W. Colorado Ave., Colorado Springs; labaguetteco.com/upstairs-wine-bar

Nomatterwhereyougoaroundthestate,there’sbound to be a fire not far away, as well as something strong to warm your belly.

«FROM 48 A stand-out amenity at The Study in the Hotel Teatro is a fireplace bordered by large bookshelves. D'Arcy Leck, provided by Hotel Teatro
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Patrons at the Williams & Graham in the LoHi neighborhood of Denver Kathryn Scott, Special to The Denver Post, file
DENVER
DENVERPOST.COM

The best Colorado winter festivals for 2022-23

Festivals add a special sparkle to Colo rado’s already dazzling winters With jubilant live music, soul warming food and drinks,colorfulparadesandonly in win ter activities like snow carving and ice climbing, these events have become be lovedcold weathertraditionsintheCen tennial State

Here are some of Colorado’s best win ter festivals to attend this season.

Fire Festival

Dec 2 4, Telluride, telluridefirefesti val.org

Ifyou’relookingforsomethingexciting and different this winter, look no further. This weekend in idyllic Telluride cele brates fire arts and performance There are free shows, live music, firey art cars

and hands on workshops in aerial acro batics, partner hooping/juggling and the basicsofpropaneandsteelfireart It’sal together unlike your usual weekend fest, for sure.

Ullr Fest

Dec 8 11, Breckenridge, gobreck com/ event/ullr fest

If you’ve never formally acquainted yourselfwithUllr,theNorsegodofsnow andskiing,thisisyourchance.Breck’san nual 10 day shindig, hosted by the resi dents and businesses of this charming mountaintownsince1963,isacelebration ofallthethingsthatmakewinterinColo rado so great: fresh powder, ice skating, curling, bonfires, parades, Viking in spired costumes and, yes, even shot skis

A kayaker is pulled along the Ullr Fest parade route in downtown Breckenridge on Jan. 10, 2019. Andy Cross, Denver Post file
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A group of friends prepare to share a bottle of sparkling wine amid the parties at Aspen Gay Ski Week. Provided by Aspen Snowmass

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Wintersköl

Jan 12 15, Aspen, aspenchamberorg/ events/winterskol

Back in 1951, when skiing was still in its infancyinAspen,agroupoflocalsgotto gether to usher in the winter season and, thus, Wintersköl was born. Over the last 70-plus years, this once-small gathering has grown to become one of the Roaring Fork Valley’s most cherished traditions.

Though the schedule is still being final ized, past festivals have included snow sculptures, fireworks, a torchlight ski pa rade on Aspen Mountain, contests, races, historicalexperiencesandsomuchmore.

Aspen Gay Ski Week

Jan 15 22, Aspen, gayskiweek com

As the longest running and largest gay ski week in the country, Aspen Gay Ski Week has been promoting inclusivity

and fun in the sport of skiing for more than40years.Thereareover the toppar ties, ski meet ups, dinners, games of drag bingo, comedy shows and tons of other lively events that are open to all

Ouray Ice Festival

Jan 19 22, Ouray, ourayicepark.com/ ouray ice festival

Pull out your puffy coat and make your way to the “Switzerland of America” for this small mountain community’s annual ice climbing festival. For four days every January, ice climbers from around the world descend upon Ouray to test their mettleontheicywaterfallsandmanmade climbingstructuresoftheOurayIcePark. There are also film screenings, happy hours, gear expos and other chances to mixandminglewithfellowoutdoorspeo ple Oh, and much needed soaks in the town’s inviting hot springs.

International Snow Sculpture Championships

Carving week is Jan. 23 27, viewing

week is Jan. 27 Feb.1, Breckenridge, go breck.com/event/international snow sculpture championships

Watch in amazement as teams from around the world carve 25 ton blocks of snow standing 12 feet tall into detailed sculptures all with just elbow grease and hand tools. No power tools are al lowed at this whimsical competition! Carvers spend up to 94 hours perfecting their frosty masterpieces, which turn downtown Breck into a temporary out doorartgallerythat’sperfectforstrolling through with a steaming cup of cocoa in your hands.

Winter X Games

Jan. 27 29, Aspen, aspensnowmass.com/ visit/events/x games aspen

Gape as some of the best skiers, snow boardersandsnowmobilersfromaround theworldcompletegravity defyingtricks at Aspen’s Buttermilk Mountain during this year’s X Games. The rad snowsports competition,thatyoumayhaveprevious

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Jason Nelson of Ouray makes his way up a route at the Ouray Ice Park. Helen J Richardson, Denver Post file
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Team Breckenridge’s “Let it Snow” sculpture looms over a model of the project during the 29th International Snow Sculpture Championships in 2019. File photo by Daniel Brenner, Special to The Denver Post

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ly watched on TV, includes more than a dozen events on the slopes and terrain parks.

Rio Frio Ice Fest

Jan. 27 29, Alamosa, rioraces.com/rio frio home

Work up a sweat while running the Rio Frio 5 kilometer foot race on the frozen Rio Grande River, then enjoy other icy festivities as part of this annual celebra tionofwinter.Pastfestivalactivitieshave included a bonfire, polar plunge and ice sculpting.

UllrGrass

Jan. 27 29, Golden, ullrgrass.com

Long nights and cold temperatures got you down? Pay a visit to Golden for Ullr Grass,ajoyousthree dayaffairnamedfor the Norse god of winter. In addition to an impressiveline upoflivemusic,italsoin cludes a beer festival, costume parade, games, food trucks, an Ullr egg hunt and otherperformancesdesignedtobringthe community together.

Snowdown

Feb. 1 5, Durango, snowdown.org

Firstheldin1979tobreakupthemonot ony of winter on the Western Slope, Snowdownhasgrowntobecomeahighly anticipated festival in Durango Now cel ebrating its 44th year, Snowdown in cludes more than 100 activities and events, from a parade of lights to whimsi cal competitions like a beard growing

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Sena Tomita of Japan competes in the women’s snowboard SuperPipe finals at Buttermilk Mountain during the X Games on Jan. 22. She won the gold medal. Helen H. Richardson, Denver Post file
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Skiers glide down the slopes, lit up by battery-powered lights, at the Steamboat Springs Winter Carnival in 2017. George Fargo, provided by Ski Steamboat

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contest.Donyourbest16th centurygarb, too, because this year’s theme is “A Shakespearian Revelry, A Week With the Bard ”

Steamboat Springs Winter Carnival

Feb 8 12, Steamboat Springs, sswsc org/ events/winter carnival

Come for the powder at Steamboat Ski Resort,stayforthewintercarnival,which includes snow sculpting, s’mores, ski jumping, dance parties and more Hosted by the Steamboat Springs Winter Sports Club since 1913, the festival is celebrating abiganniversary 110years! thisyear, so expect extra special twists to the fes tivities.

High Plains Snow Goose Festival

Feb. 2 5, Southeastern Colorado, high

plainssnowgoose.com

Even if you don’t consider yourself a “birder,” it’s hard not to be impressed when you see thousands of snow geese flying in unison in the skies over south easternColorado.ThegoodpeopleofLa marandsurroundingcommunitiesonthe EasternPlainslovetocelebratetheannu almigrationofthesemajesticbirds and you can, too, when you attend this four day festival. Enjoy lectures, excursions, demonstrationsandotherformsofcama raderie in honor of the birds

Aspen Laugh Festival

Feb. 21 25, Aspen, wheeleropera house com/laugh fest

We could all use a few laughs after the last two and a half years. The Aspen Laugh Festival, held at the beautiful his toricWheelerOperaHousedowntown,is the perfect temporary antidote to all the doomandgloom Thescheduleisstillbe ing finalized, but the popular gathering

One of the highlights of Taste of Vail is the “mountain top” tasting held 10,350 feet above sea level at the ski resort. Zach Mahone, provided by Taste of Vail

DENVER

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A man tries to regain control after losing an edge during a race at the 72nd Leadville Ski Joring Festival in 2020. Daniel Brenner, Special to The Denver Post file
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FESTIVALS

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brings together well known and emerg ingcomediansforperformancesandoth er activities.

Leadville Ski Joring & Crystal Carnival Weekend

March 3 5, Leadville, leadvilletwin lakes.com/things to do detail/leadville

ski joring crystal carnival weekend

Marvelasaskierpulledbyahorsenavi gatesdowntownLeadville’sHarrisonAv enue (and flies over jumps!) at this Wild West event in the mountains The same weekend also features the Crystal Carni val, a chilly festival that includes parties, livemusic,dancinganduniqueraces,like the Nordic paintball biathlon.

Taste of Vail

April 5 8, Vail, tasteofvail com

Deliciousness abounds at Taste of Vail, which has been delighting the taste buds offestivalgoersintheVailValleyformore than30years.Therearefascinatingsemi nars,intimatetalkswithwinemakers,dai ly tastings and other food and drink fo cused activities, with plenty of time for skiing Vail’s legendary back bowls in be tween.Infact,youcanskirightovertothe festival’s Mountain Top Tasting event,

which is held above town at 10,350 feet.

Keepyoureyesopenfortheseotheran nualfestivalsstillinplanningforthiswin ter season: Cripple Creek Ice Festival, usually held in February (visitcrip plecreek.com), Manitou Springs Carni vale Weekend, usually held near Mardi Gras (manitousprings.org/carnivale weekend) and Frozen Dead Guy Day in Nederland, usually held in March (fro zendeadguydays.org).

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5 very appropriate beers to pair with ski season

Skiseasonstartedalittlelaterthanusual in 2022 and predictions are mixed as to whether it will be a great year or not for pow pow.Eitherway,you’regoingtowant a beer.

So, if you’re tailgating at the A Basin beach or stocking the cooler for après ski, considerpairingthegoodvibeswiththese appropriately themed beers

Face Down Brown Ale (Telluride Brewing Co.)

Telluride Brewing Co.’s signature brown ale has won four Great American Beer Festival medals, including two gold, andwithgoodreason.Thedarkmaltsand aggressive hop profile perfectly balance one another for a beer that’s robust in fla vor but relatively light in body, so it won’t weigh you down And at 5 7% alcohol by volume,onewon’tmakeyougofacedown on the slopes either

Availableyear roundondraftandinsix packs of 12 ounce cans.

Funslinger Lager (Breckenridge Brewery)

Colorado companies Breckenridge BreweryandNeverSummercollaborated fora10thyearwithalocalartist,whosede signappearsonbothanewlimited release beerandanewsnowboard Theamberla ger, so named for one of Never Summer’s originalsnowboards,boastsnotesoftoast edbreadandaslightnuttiness,andfinish escrispwithadelightfulhopbite.It’sprac tically dying to be paired with a bluebird ski day.

Now available year round in six packs of 12 ounce cans.

Patrol Dog Pale (Avery Brewing Co.)

Avery Brewing Co ’s newest release is quite paw sibly the cutest beer to come out this season. Patrol Dog Pale ale, creat edinpartnershipwiththeNationalSkiPa trol, utilizes American hops that offer a pungent hop aroma alongside low bitter ness, which brewers said make it bright and refreshing on the palate. Buying this beer will make you feel extra warm and cuddly,asproceedsbenefitavalanchedog rescue programs throughout the U S

Available year round on draft and six packs of 12 ounce cans

Powder Run Cream Ale (Living the Dream Brewing Co.)

Littleton’s Living the Dream Brewing Co. describes its Powder Run Cream Ale as fluffy and creamy, no doubt harkening to the feeling of making fresh tracks after an epic snow dump. This beer is brewed with vanilla, which offers an extra kick of

Proceeds from Avery Brewing Co.’s new Patrol Dog Pale benefit avalanche dog rescue programs throughout the U.S. Provided by Avery Brewing Co

Telluride Brewing Co.’s Face Down Brown Ale has won four medals, including two gold, from the Great American Beer Festival.

Provided by Malarie Reising Clark

sweetness to the cream ale without being cloying,andat5%ABVit’salsocrushable

Availableyear roundondraftandinsix packs of 12 ounce cans.

Tree Skier Pale Ale (Over Yonder Brewing)

Think about the last time you skied through the trees, spruce branches whip ping you in the face Perhaps drinking OverYonderBrewing’sseasonalspecialty, TreeSkier,won’tfeelexactlylikethat,but brewers used 20 pounds of spruce tips in the recipe, which lend citrus and pine notes to the flavor of this juicy style pale ale. The beer is a collaboration with Powder7 ski outfitter in Golden.

Available starting Nov. 2 for a limited timeondraftandinfour packsof16 ounce cans.

Tiney Ricciardi: cricciardi@denverpost.com or @tineywristwatch

Living the Dream Brewing Co. brews its Powder Run Cream Ale with vanilla and sometimes releases variations like Horchata Powder Run. Tiney Ricciardi, The Denver Post

Breckenridge Brewery’s Funslinger Lager is named for one of Never Summer’s original snowboard designs. Provided by Breckenridge Brewery
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Where to find fondue and raclette in Colorado

Ski season is also fondue season, the glorious time of year when dunking cubes of crusty bread, tart slices of Granny Smith apples and rounds of cured meats into melted cheese counts as a meal

Often made with a generous splash of white wine in a garlic rubbed pot, pip ing hot fondue is a staple on après ski menus. But we’d be remiss to not also mention raclette in this niche alpine food grouping

A staple associated with European ski lodges and Christmas markets, rich cheese is scraped from a heated wheel,

providing a gooey blanket over crispy potatoes

Wondering where you can find the gooey goodness this winter? Here are five great spots in the mountains and Mile High City where you can indulge in fondue and raclette

Swiss Chalet at Sonnenalp in Vail

It almost feels like a meal here should require a passport stamp At Swiss Cha let in the Sonnenalp hotel, cheeses are imported from Switzerland and the al pine vibe carries through in the restau rant’s uniforms and the honey blonde wood furnishings.

“Hearty favorites such as schnitzel,

fondue and raclette transports you to a chalet in the Swiss Alps,” executive chef Josh Marshall says.

Diners can customize their fondue ex perience with add ons like truffles and champagne or, for some heat, jalapeños and chile pepper flakes On the raclette route, you can order the cheese with po tatoes and balsamic mushrooms or opt for meats including beef tenderloin, ba con, chipolata (a spicy sausage) and smoked Polish sausage.

20 Vail Road, Vail; sonnenalp com/din ing/swiss chalet

Wyld at The Ritz-Carlton, Bachelor Gulch in Avon

Nestled against Beaver Creek Moun

tain, The Ritz Carlton, Bachelor Gulch has the ambience of an upscale ski lodge (think: three story, wood burning fire place, cozy leather furniture, live music and large windows that frame views of the snowy mountain).

A favorite winter dish, the fondue is made with alpine cheese that’s been aged 12 to 18 months and served with ap ples, torn pieces of fresh baked bread and kielbasa.

The fondue is served at Wyld, the ho tel’s upscale restaurant, as well as The Great Room lounge

0130 Daybreak Ridge Road, Avon; ritz carlton.com/en/hotels/colorado/bache lor gulch

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Diners can customize their fondue experience at the Swiss Chalet at the Sonnenalp with add-ons like truffles, champagne or jalapeños.
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Provided by the Sonnenalp

Margie’s Haas at The Hythe in Vail

Through its design and dining out posts, The Hythe Vail pays tribute to the area’s history: Elite soldiers once trained near the Vail Valley before de ploying to fight alpine battles during World War II.

Margie’s Haas, the hotel’s signature restaurant, is a nod to a home cook who prepared meals for the troops driving through the valley

Influenced by cuisine of the Italian and Austrian Alps, the restaurant serves tableside raclette that’s melted and shaved on to Tyrolean speck (a ham), steamed garlic butter potatoes and rus tic bread alongside other fixings 715 W. Lionshead Circle, Vail; the hythevail.com/dining/margies haas

The Truffle Table in Denver

A fromage focused bar in LoHi, The Truffle Table is the sister outpost to the wildly popular, cut to order Truffle Cheese Shop in Cherry Creek.

The cute bar has plenty of fine chees es to sync up with wine, beer or a classic cocktail just ask for a pairing recom mendation.

While the menu changes with the sea sons, expect meat and cheese loaded charcuterie boards, baked brie, grilled cheese sandwiches and fondue, too, served with bread, sausage and some greens.

You can also buy paintings from local artists straight from the walls 2556 15th St , Denver; truffletable.net

Alpinist & The Goat in Telluride

At the foundation of the Alpinist & The Goat’s fondue menu are European cheeses and bread that’s been sautéed in creamy, slow churned Plugra style but ter.

Turophiles have choices, from a basic fondue with a dash of nutmeg, to Corti na D’Ampezzo that’s a blend of Europe an cheeses and gorgonzola great for pairing with filet mignon, to the Tellu ride Scrappe with aged Irish cheddar and Swiss Gruyère plus crispy bacon and chives.

The restaurant also serves raclette with imported Gruyère cheese that’s melted on a hot stone and served with house made croutons, a mashed potato panoply and grilled vegetables. 204 W. Colorado Ave., Telluride; alpinistandthegoat com

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Margie’s Haas at The Hythe Vail serves tableside raclette with Tyrolean speck (a ham), steamed garlic butter potatoes and rustic bread. Provided by The Hythe Vail

Helping You Get Past Injury And Back On The Slopes.

Time to break out the boards and head for the hills. Winter sports season is coming—and with it comes the real possibility of injury. If you get hurt “shredding the gnar” or just making your way to the lift, our highly-skilled and caring orthopedic specialists are standing by every day to provide the best possible patient-focused care in the Front Range. We’re committed to help get you back to living your best life—on the slopes and off.

Better is possible.

Visit our website to learn more about our sports medicine expertise. | occ-ortho.com
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