Ladakh - so close to heaven

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JACK WOLFSKIN SPRING/SUMMER 2010 ISSUE # 01/1

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n e v a e h o t e s o l c o s – Trekking

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In terms of age, the Himalayas are just a spring chicken but, in terms of height, a giant among the high mountain ranges of this world. Ladakh lies in the northernmost corner of India, framed by the mighty peaks of the Himalayas and of the Karakorum. A landscape of extremes and still largely unknown. In August 2009 we fulfilled our dream: a ten-day trekking tour in Little Tibet, as Ladakh is also called.

It's hot, it's loud, it's colourful and in the crowded streets gorgeous scents mingle with a horrible stench. As soon as we exit Delhi Airport, we are quite overwhelmed by the many impressions that assail us.

We find a bit of peace and quiet at the Jama Mashid, the "world-reflecting mosque". It is the biggest mosque in India with room for more than 20,000 people in the courtyard.

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We are not sorry to leave Delhi and by the next day we are off on our flight to Leh in Ladakh. Spellbound, we look down on the majestic rolling sea of the Himalayas. Ten of the 14 highest peaks on earth are to be found here. Now we can hardly wait to finally get to the mountain world of Ladakh.

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The place literally takes our breath away. Even the smallest effort leaves us gasping for breath here. Leh is one of the highest situated towns on earth and it takes a few days till we are acclimatised. But the views are also breathtaking. The sky over Leh is like a deep azure blue carpet. Clear mountain air. We use the day to relax, to get accustomed to the altitude.

After the c city and ex items on o

chaos in Delhi we enjoy the "calm" in Ladakh's capital xplore the colourful markets. Here we buy the remaining our provisions list for our forthcoming trekking tour.

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We are greeted with a hearty "julee" by Lama Tsewang, a monk from the Lingshed Monastery. We are immediately reassured to have a good travel guide by our side and learn the most important word in Ladakh: julee – hello, good morning, good evening, thank you, goodbye. What more do we need to know!

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A short walk takes us to the Shanti Stupa, a Japanese monastery perched high above Leh. A view full of contrasts: bright prayer flags, blue sky, the desert-like lunar landscape, snow-capped mountains and the snaking Indus river bordered by green vegetation.

Muted light. Voices in the air come and go like the breaking waves on a beach. We hit the road while it is still dark to take part in the morning meditation at Thikse Monastery. A deep peace envelops us and we sit for a long time contemplating the mountains in the early morning light.

Life in Ladakh is deeply rooted in Buddhism and you meet it at every turn: bright, fluttering flags carry prayers up to the gods and countless stone tablets with prayers engraved on them lie on top of the walls. We often hear the murmuring of "Om mani padme hum", the oldest and constantly recited mantra of Tibetan Buddhism.

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Stirred not shaken – travelling over rutted roads we reach Alchi. Our last overnight stay with a roof over our head before we set off on our trekking tour.

With three pack horses and a cook our group is now complete. Our rucksacks are packed, water and food stowed away on our four-legged companions. And we're off. We slowly climb up through a mighty ravine. Narrow paths have been hewn out of the steep rocky cliffs.

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There aren't many paths in this remote mountainous world. For the local inhabitants, the passes and ravines are their link to the outside world. So it's not surprising that we meet a friend of Tsewang. A welcome excuse for a short break.

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Halfway to Photoskar we put up our tents in the middle of a magnificent landscape. The stillness is palpable and the sky so close.

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We have broken through the 4000 m barrier. The next day we reach the mountain village of Photoskar situated over 4200 m above sea level.

It's almost impossible to imagine how the locals manage to survive in the barren landscape.

Unusual sounds come to our ears. We come across shepherds with yaks, also known as grunting ox.

For the people of the Central Asian Highlands the yak is practically an all-singing, all-dancing animal. It certainly represents the basis for survival for most people: milk, meat, leather, hair and wool – everything is used. Its dung is used for fuel and the animal is still used both for carrying loads and for riding.

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Hospitality in Photoskar is amazing. Goor goor (butter tea) is offered. The Ladakhi's favourite drink presents a real challenge to our palate: tea with yak butter, salt and sometimes soda titillates our taste buds.

Tsewang helps us with the language but laughter is the best way to communicate.

We hang up our prayer flags. Step by step, we toil to the top of the Sisir-La pass at 4730 m. It represents in the truest sense our pinnacle. Ahead of us is the strenuous descent to Hunupatta. Then it is time for farewells. "Julee", we'll be back.

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en v a e h o t e s o l c o s – e is part of our kit list: Her

en Talkeetna Wom

The fabric for the TALKEETNA WOMEN is fluffy and warm: the 150 fleece traps more warming air through the highloft structure.

cket Women ja e p a sc e t a e r G The GREAT ESCAPE JACKET WOMEN is lovely and light, also waterproof. It is slightly more fitted than other trekking jackets for women.

Trekking T However much you perspire, the TREKKING T always feels virtually dry next to the skin, rapidly wicking sweat away to the outside surface.

So it's ideal as the base layer in the layering system.

ff pants o p i z a n n a v a H The HAVANNA ZIP OFF PANTS combine long trousers and shorts in one. That saves on kit.

They are made of robust FUNCTION 65 with its cotton-like feel, and have five pockets.

Men Midnight moon With its medium insulation, the MIDNIGHT MOON MEN jacket made of 150 grade fleece is especially pleasant on summer trips. The system zip allows seamless docking with the ALL TERRAIN JACKET MEN, for example.

en All terrain M The ALL TERRAIN JACKET MEN is like a suit of armour: waterproof, extremely hardwearing, robust, yet very breathable. Venting zips and eight pockets are just some of the features. A fleece jacket, e.g. the MIDNIGHT MOON MEN, can be zipped in using the system zip.

Denali The DENALI is still comfortable to carry even when fully packed.

All straps are comfortably padded and the sensible compartments bring order to packing.

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