Jack Wolfskin - Tour book Alps (EN)

Page 1

2011

WHY VENTURE FURTHER AFIE LD?


JU S T LOOK AT WHAT ’S ON YOUR DOORSTEP ! Our photo shoots take us to some of the most beautiful parts of the world. On foot, on snowshoes or on cross-country skis, we explore beautiful natural landscapes, generally far from the beaten track. This is when we really are At Home Outdoors!

T HE

A LPS

A N

OU T DOOR

PARADIS E

However, to experience remote regions and wonderful nature, long journeys are not always necessary – after all, the Alps are pretty much on our doorstep! Over the years, we have been to many corners of the Alps. These visits have never failed to move and inspire us with their magnificent mountain scenery. The Alps have everything that we love and live for: diverse landscapes and a huge range of outdoor activities; not forgetting the welcoming and cosy mountain huts. This year we sent our trekking/cross-country skiing team to the Jotunheimen National Park in Norway and three teams on different trips to the Alps. The first team went snowshoeing in the Val di Campo in Switzerland; the second went on a high-alpine expedition around Mount Titlis, again in Switzerland; while the third team went ice climbing in the Karwendel in the Bavarian Alps and the Stubai Valley in the Austrian Alps.

P RE PA RAT ION

IS

T HE

K EY

Naturally, we make sure that every trip is carefully organised in advance. Where are the most beautiful spots? What are the most remote areas? Where can you spend the night? And what clothing and equipment do we need? No matter how well organised you are, there is always one thing that can completely change even the best laid plans – the weather. The weather certainly kept us on our toes in Winter 2011. The snows came early and we soon had perfect winter conditions. Our standards are high – we want plenty of snow for our planned activities and great photos, but not enough to bring with it the threat of avalanches. It goes without saying that bright sun, clear blue skies and snow is a photographer’s dream. However we also want some bad weather to put our products through their paces. And then the thaw came. We had three photographers, ten models, three project leaders and three mountain guides all ready to go when the right weather conditions arrive. Our click rates on the weather reports and avalanche information sites must have been astronomical.

A ND

F I N A L LY,

W E ’RE

OFF!

With ice climbing in particular, the right weather conditions mean more than just good shots; it’s a matter of safety. At the start of February, the guides give the go-ahead. We have perfect ice climbing conditions. The other two trips have to wait for more snow – and they wait and wait. Finally in March, the conditions were right. In magnificent sunshine, our alpine team started out on their twoday circuit of Titlis (3,238m) which includes an easy via ferrata and a glorious ski descent. Meanwhile, the snowshoe team also were on their way to Switzerland. Their objective – a trip from Sfázu to the Saoseo Hut (1,985m).



BIG FOOT – SNOWSHOE ING

“Oh, the world is sometimes so ugly, but there is a still a paradise. It’s called Val di Campo and is a fantastically beautiful place.” The warden of the Saoseo mountain hut in the Swiss canton of Graubünden has these words printed on his business card. It sounds too good to be missed, so we decided to head there in May for some

SNOW S HOE

DAY TRIPS.

Normally, when there is good snow cover, there are plenty of great options. You are not just restricted to the prepared trails or downhill runs. However, given the lack of snow in 2011, we spent a long time pouring over the snow depth maps for

SIDE OF THE A LP S. the Alps and settled on the S O U T H We found just what we were looking for on the border between Engadin (Switzerland) and Sondrio (Italy). Our snowshoe team started out from St. Moritz and Pontresina and passed the turnoff for Livigno before crossing the Bernina Pass to reach the small settlement of Sfázu. Then they climbed up into the Val di Campo, to make base camp at the

SAOSE O

HUT

(2,000m).

IN


BE RG E LL

Snowshoeing provides a wide range of possibilities and covers all levels of difficulty, hence the huge amount of interest it attracts. It also serves as an interesting alternative to cross-country skiing for people who don’t want to or haven’t learnt how to ski, but still want to experience the alpine solitude of the mountains in winter. From their base at the Saoseo hut, the team (guide, photographer, four models and two others) set off on various trips with different levels of difficulty. One trip provides the perfect opportunity for a spot of

C OU NTRY

HOPPING

:

VIA THE SENTIEREO ITALIA OVER THE PASS O C ONFINE (2,52 8M ) I N TO T H E VA L V I O L A ( I TA LY ) A N D THEN BAC K INTO S WITZE RL AND VIA T HE PA SSO VA L VIOL A. ONWA RDS A ND UPWA RDS !


W E ST RA P ON THE SNOWSHOES ON THE OU TS KIRTS OF SFÁZ U, W HILE OUR MOUNTAIN OF EQU IP M ENT A ND GEAR G E TS T RA NSP ORT ED BY SNOW MOBILE .



THE EVENING PE RFE C T LY HA RM W ITH A C OU ROUNDS OF

BEG AN LE S S LY PLE OF UNO...


No comment


Early start: we set out for Italy and then the Val Viola

Martin, our guide


IS THIS A SLE EPING GIA NT (W ITH A BOBBLE HAT )?




F LY I N G I S E A S Y, IT ’S W HE RE YOU L AND THAT C OU NTS – U NFORT U NAT E LY FOR AS TRID, SHE C HOSE T HE ST REA M

Important: Bring a spare change of clothes!




ry Changed, dfor the and ready next jump!

TA K E A BRE A K – A LPINE S T Y LE: W E S TOP ON TOP OF THE PA SS O C ONFINE (2 ,5 28 M) TO ENJOY THE MAG NIFICE NT VIEW FROM OUR HOME -MA DE SNOW LOUNGE.





Bruno: hut w and “5-star carden hef”

The Rhaetian Railway up the Bernina Pass – it’s really beautiful!

gone.


Trip info TRAVE L PONTRES INA

VA L

DI

CAM PO

S FA ZÙ

THE

We chose to travel by car, due to the large amount of equipment and kit we took with us. However, despite the lack of a train connection to our starting point – Sfazù in the Val Di Campo, we wanted to travel into the valley by train. The Bernina section of the Rhaetian Railway (RhB) is the highest adhesion traction (non-cog/funicular) railway in Europe and travels up through the 2,328 m Bernina Pass. We travelled with the Swiss Federal Railways (SBB) to Chur and then with the RhB on through the Bernina Pass to Poschiavo. From Poschiavo there is a post-bus to Sfazù

A RE A

The Val di Campo is in the Swiss canton of Graubünden and is a tributary valley of the Valposchiavo on the southern side of the Bernina Pass. The seven-kilometre-long valley is surrounded by Italy on three sides. It runs from the Passo Val Viola (2,432 m) in a south-westerly direction down to Sfazù (1,577 m), where the road starts down into the valley.

EXC URSIONS For a warm up, there is the one-hour ascent to the hut via the main path or better still on the narrow trail that runs parallel to it. Our favourite excursion: the Sentiero Italia over the Passo Confine (2,528m) into the Val Viola (Italy), returning via the Passo Val Viola. This moderately steep section is ideal for a longer snowshoe trip and generally safe from avalanches. Further destinations: the Costone di Saoseo, the Passo di Dugerale or the valleys and summits around the Corno di Campo. The SAC hut wardens, Bruno and Ruth Heis, are excellent cooks and great source of information for trips in the surrounding area. For the more experienced, these excursions are suitable to be undertaken alone, with the appropriate equipment. The local alpine instruction centres also arrange guided excursions from night hikes to multi-day snowshoe trips.

M AP S 269 BERNINAPASS 1:50.000 topographical map of Switzerland, swisstopo 1278 LA RÖSA 1:25.000 topographical map of Switzerland, swisstopo

FU RT HE R

INFORM ATION

Regional info and accommodation: www.saoseo.ch The Rhaetian Railway: http://www.rhb.ch/


products S OFT P UM ORI

M E N

A particularly warm fleece jacket with a bipolar construction. It has a smooth, durable velour outer surface and a thick, shearling structure inner fabric. This provides additional wind resistance, making it ideal for use as a winter jacket on fine days.

A S Y LU M WOM E N

One of our most popular fleece jackets. The dense, long pile structure makes is super-soft and provides outstanding warmth-toweight performance. It is equipped with a system zip for seamless combination with one of our weatherproof shell jackets.

S AVAG E WOM E N T RAIL CHA LLE NG E XT JACK E T M E N A sporty, technical alpine jacket. The innovative shell fabric has outstanding breathability and is additionally air permeable. A constant air exchange takes place, a process that accelerates with increased physical activity. It has a medium weight polyfiber-fill insulation.

S NOW C AM P T E X A P ORE For winter hiking and snowshoeing: The combination of waterproof, highly-breathable synthetic nubuck leather with a warm lining and thermal interlining is ideal for winter use. The lightweight winter hiking sole provides good grip on snow and slush. It also incorporates a HEEL STEP to secure snow show straps.

ROS E

A robust, slightly longer cut 3-in-1 hiking jacket. The waterproof and breathable outer shell is combined with a warm, fleece inner jacket. In warmer months, it can also be worn alone without the fake fur collar and inner jacket.

T RAIL

C HILLY T E X A P ORE WOM E N

For warm feet on winter walks. The warm lining and lightweight but extremely effective interlining make this boot ideal for use on snow and ice. The robust, oiled nubuck leather upper has an additional waterproof and breathable membrane.


TOUCH

THE

SK Y

The particular attraction of high-alpine routes are the summits. Magnificent views, the world far down below and only the skies above you. These special moments are only earned through hard work and overcoming the technical challenges. This winter, we have found ourselves a splendid mountain – T I T L I S . This is the highest mountain (3,238 m) in the Swiss canton of Obwalden and lies in the largest skiing area in C E N T R A L S W I T Z E R L A N D . However, we plan to steer clear of tourist slopes to go backcountry. Once the skins are attached to our cross-country skis it doesn’t take long to leave the ski lifts behind us and enter a grandiose, I S O L A T E D A L P I N E W O R L D of deep valleys, spectacular summits, steep cliffs and large glaciers. We plan to ski round Titlis in two days and climb the Grassen (2,946 m) on route. This expedition has everything you could want from an alpine winter.


MOUNTAINEE RING

IN

THE

URNER

ALP S

Ascents on C R O S S - C O U N T R Y S K I S , winter via ferrate, abseiling, a summit, and to top it all off – a magnificent F R E E R I D E D E S C E N T through deep snow at over 1,600 m back down into the valley. Our accommodation is at the Grassen bivouac (2,647 m). The Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) website provides the key information: The hut has no warden, but is “stocked with sufficient firewood and red wine”. As March arrives, we are ready. Due to its high location, the conditions are excellent, despite the rather poor snows of the 2011 winter in the Alps...

THE T EAM S ETS OUT INTO THE URNE R ALP S: PHOTOGRA PH, MOUNTAIN GUIDE A ND THRE E M ODE LS.


Mathias


THE FIRS T DE SC E NT WA S G REAT FUN. NOW WE AT TAC H T HE SK IS TO OUR PACK S TO CLIM B THE K NIFELIKE RIDG E .

Olav Christina






DE S CE NT TO T HE CHLI GLETS CHERLI: THE “LIT T LE ” CHLI GL ACIER IS BIG GE R T HA N IT SOUNDS !


6-armed alpine aliens...


We reach our first objective: the Grassen bivouac. The views are fantastic, the red wine is good and the bivouac is far more comfortable than its name would suggest.


2.647 m





W E A RE ON TOP OF T HE MOU NTA IN – FROM NOW ON IT ’S A LL DOWNHILL! ! AM AZ ING SKIING – 160 0 M E TE RS BACK DOW N INTO THE VA LLEY – “ W EU I WU I SC HIFOA N, SCHIFOAN, WOW WOW WOW ” (S UBTIT LES: COS A S KIING I W ILL G O, WILL GO... ;) )




Only flying is better!


(Goodbye))


TRAVEL E NGE LBERG

Apart from the car, there are good train connections. Engelberg has a good public transport network and there is a free bus link between the train station and the Titlis cable car valley station.

THE

T ITLIS

AREA

We started out from Engelberg (1,120m), which lies directly at the foot of Titlis and the Titlis ski resort. With 82 kilometres of pistes, this is the largest ski area in central Switzerland. The surrounding mountains provide plenty of ski touring opportunities at all levels. Titlis is the highest mountain in the 20-kilometre range that curves round between the Berner Hasli Valley and the Urner Reuss Valley. The range is part of the Urner Alps, which has many 3,000 m peaks and glaciers. The Urner Alps have the advantage that you start high, providing easier access to the high-alpine areas.

ROU T E The Titlis circuit starts at 3,020 m with a downhill section over the Steinberg Glacier to the Hinteres Tiflisjoch. Following the exposed “knife-edge” ridge (easy via ferrata), there is an abseil point down to the Little Chli Glacier. A further downhill section leads to two abseil points at the Schwarzi Naad. A steep ascent up the south side of Titlis over the Wenden Glacier and you reach the Grassen bivouac. Here, there is always the option to climb the Grassen itself. To the north is a freeride descent over 1,600 m back down to Herrenrüti near Engelberg. It is strongly recommended that you take the first cable car up Titlis and wait for 100% avalanchefree conditions.

M AP S

AND

G U IDEBOOKS

255S SUSTENPASS 1:50.000 topographical ski touring map of Switzerland, swisstopo 1211 1:25.000 topographical map Meiental, swisstopo Guidebook: - Urner Alpen 3 , Swiss Alpine Club (SAC), Bächli - Alpine Ski Tours Central Switzerland-Tessin, Swiss Alpine Club (SAC)

FU RT HE R

INFORM ATION

Titlis and surrounding area: www.titlis.ch/ Our mountain guide: http://www.bergfuehrer-engelberg.ch/ Accomodation: www.sac-engelberg.ch/grassenbiwak


Products 1 4 T H

PE A K

M E N

This softshell and waterproof protective shell combination forms a very robust and lightweight alpine 3-in-1 jacket with excellent breathability performance. The cut allows maximum freedom of movement, while the storm hood has chin flaps for full weather protection.

W HIT E OU T JAC K ET WOM E N Weather protection and insulation for alpine ascents. This 3-in-1 lightweight jacket provides comprehensive weather protection, excellent breathability and full freedom of movement. The high storm collar and adjustable hood also give extra protection. The down inner jacket guarantees excellent insulation performance.

M OU NTA IN W INT E R PA NT WOM E N POW DE R FORC E JAC KE T WOM E N When the powder slopes beckon, this technical jacket has full ski-specific detailing. Its robust and highly breathable weatherproof shell delivers excellent climate control even during more strenuous activity.

Designed for winter mountaineering. These softshell pants are wind and water repellent, extremely breathable and have kinetic stretch properties. There are venting zips for additional climate control and reinforced critical wear points at the inner calf.

M OUNTA INE ER 46 M EN S TORMLOC K RIP RA P C AP When the mountain winds blow – this rib knit beanie has a windproof and breathable fleece lining.

Our technical mountaineering pack. The MOUNTAINEER 46 is particularly robust and comes with a comprehensive list of alpine features. The lightweight design also includes attachment and lashing options for alpine safety equipment. The body-contact carry system ensures optimal load control and freedom of movement.


THE DIRE CT ROU T E IC E CLIMBING IN T

It’s the early February and we have a trip with two planned objectives. Ice climbing in the Karwendel and in the Stubai Valley. The two projects could not be any more different. The K A R W E N D E L route is an artificial icefall, which can be reached by the mountain railway. It’s the perfect final preparation for the ice climbing season. The Stubai Valley has a number of natural waterfalls with routes at all levels of difficulty. Our chosen destination lies in the remote P I N N I S V A L L E Y and can only be reached on foot. Frozen cliffs and waterfalls are a particular feature of the mountains in winter – they often open up possibilities that only exist in the colder months. Generally speaking, ice climbing routes generally involve a G R A D I E N T B E T W E E N 4 0 ° A N D 9 0 ° – any steeper and the difficulty significantly increases. Ice climbing is a specialist form of mountaineering that requires considerable alpine climbing experience. The safety equipment requires is the same as with alpine winter climbing.


IS ONLY P OS S IBLE IN W INT E R – HE K A RW E NDE L A ND THE S TUBAI ALP S

In the Karwendel below the Karwendel Railway mountain station in Mittenwald an 80 m the artificial icefall was created at a height of 2,200 m. The significant altitude and the north-facing slope means that the water quickly freezes here. Our team makes the most of their early arrival at the mountain station to go for a quick cross-country ski, before climbing the ice wall. That evening, they travel on to the Pinnis Valley to tackle the G L I T T E R I N G I C E early next morning. The Pinnis Valley in the Stubai Alps is an Eldorado for ice climbers. It has around twenty icefalls and plenty of impressive routes. We’re faced with challenging ice climbs with promising names, such as Gully, Curtain or „ M Ä N N E R O H N E N E R V E N “ (Men without nerves) – good that we’ve got at least one female climber in the team then We’ve two exciting days ahead of us exploring the fifth element – ice.

W E ’RE RE A LLY E XC IT E D, IT ’S GONNA BE A “M OA DS G AUDI” (= A LOT TA FUN) A S THEY SAY ROUND HE RE.


WE TA KE THE FIRST CA BLE CAR UP TO T HE TOP STATION OF THE KA RWENDEL RAILWAY MOUNTAIN STATION. THE FIRST RAY S OF SU N LIGHT UP THE SNOWY MOUNTAINS AND PROM IS E A P E R F E C T D AY.


Alex Christina


The photographer says stop just in time!

W E

MAKE

T HE

M OST

OF

T HE

And fit in a short ski trip towards to the Dammkar downhill run. We can see both Bavaria and Austria Tirol from up here, as the Karwendel Alps span the border between Austria and Germany..

EAR


Mathias

LY

M ORNING

LIG HT


after the tough ascent, we take the cable car back down

W HILE THE CA BLE CAR TOU RIS TS WATC H A ND E NJOY THE IR “K AFFE E U ND K UC HE N” IN THE SU N, W E E NJOY THE ICE.



innis

Following the one-hour walk in, we’re warmed up and ready for “Männer ohne Nerven”. The name inspires us to demonstrate the opposite as we climb one of the hardest ice routes in Tirol.


alley

1 2 5 ME T ERS OF IC E


MEN

W IT HOU T

NE RVE S?



This is not the

top


This is the top!

ONWARDS A ND UP WA RDS! ICE IS AMAZ ING : T HERE ARE FORMAT IONS RANGING FROM C ABBAG ES A ND MUSHROOM S TO T HIC K C OLU MNS, CA R WINDOW S A ND BA LCONIES


T RAVE L INFO FOR T HE K ARW E NDE L IC E FA LLL

INNSBRUC K

NE DE R/ SC HMIE DEN PINNIS ICE

C LIMBING

We came by car, but it’s easy to get there by train from Innsbruck or Munich, without having to change. From the Mittenwald train station, you can either walk or there’s a hiking bus to the Karwendel Railway valley station. In winter, the railway runs from 09:00 to 16:00. To ensure that you make the last cable car down, it is recommended starting up the icefall before 13:00. If you miss the cable car, the only way down is the very steep and 7-kilometer Dammkar downhill freeride!

VA LLEY

ROUT ES

The 80-meter vertical icefall was opened in Winter 2010 is respected even by experienced ice climbers. The grade 5 icefall is suitable for experienced climbers from mid-December to mid-April. Novices should be accompanied by a guide.

T RAVE L

INFO

FOR

T HE

PINNIS

VA LLEY

By car, travel from Innsbruck to Neder/Schmieden in the Stubai Valley. You can walk from here into the Pinnis Valley. In winter, it’s more fun to sledge down from the top station of the Elfer Lift. If reach the Issenanger Alm, the hut warden at Pinnisalm offers to tow guests on their sledges back up to the Alm.

ICE

C LIMBING

The Pinnis Valley has a wide range of routes to offer, although most of them are grade 3 to grade 5. “Männer ohne Nerven” is a classic and one of the best routes in Tirol. Many of the ice falls are within short walking distance of the Pinnisalm.

FU RT HE R

INFORM AT ION

Karwendel area: http://www.alpenwelt-karwendel.de/ Stubaital area: http://www.stubai.at Ice climbing in the Pinnis Valley: http://www.climbers-paradise.com/ Climbing instruction in both valleys: http://www.bergsteigerschule-zugspitze.de


Products QU INT E SSE NC E JAC KE T ME N This 3-in-1 winter softshell combines a kinetic stretch, windproof and very breathable softshell outer jacket with a lightweight, warm fleece inner jacket. The hood is both extremely water repellent and helmet compatible. The QUINTESSENCE jacket is cut to allow full freedom of movement.

C HOG ORI XT JACK E T WOM E N Maximum insulation and minimal pack size. This virtually windproof down jacket has a ripstop construction and outstanding insulation performance. The adjustable hood also keeps the head warm. The CHOGORI can be zipped into a weatherproof shell via its system zip.

T E X AP ORE G LOVE Robust, waterproof and breathable gloves with a very warm interlining and a thermal lining.

M U DDY PA S S JAC K E T WOM E N When it gets steep, every gram saved makes a real difference. Our windproof, lightweight, alpine softshell with hood guarantees excellent freedom of movement. Its outstanding breathability spec is more than a match for the most strenuous activity.

S NOW S HE LT E R PANTS The perfect ice climbing and winter mountaineering solution. These softshell pants are windproof, breathable and guarantee full freedom of movement. Skispecific detailing includes: integrated gaiters, reinforced protection on critical wear points at the inner calf and a Recco reflector.


W E

A RE

C E RTA IN

T H AT:

the Alps are going to call us back time and time again. Every trip fills us with inspiration, gives us new ideas and sows the seeds for the next expedition, the next summit and the next time At Home Outdoors! Photo credits: Snowshoeing: Gaudenz Danuser, Alpine trip: Moritz Attenberger, Ice climbing: Hansi Heckmair


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