The Kimono: Tracing the Evolution of a Traditional Japanese Garment and Its Future Potential

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JAPAN

LORENZO LANDINI

VIRGINIA HILL

Fashion Management / Business / Buying / Digital Communication & Media 2 2022 - 2023, History and Criticism of Contemporary Fashion S1, CLASS 4 ENG

FEBURARY 1st, 2023

Introduction

The local aesthetics of Japan and the kimono have deep roots in the country’s culture and history. People have worn the kimono, a traditional Japanese garment, for centuries and still do today. It serves as a symbol of Japanese culture and represents the country’s aesthetic values.

Craftsmen make the kimono from various fabrics, including silk, cotton, and linen. They design it to be worn in various ways and often decorate it with intricate patterns and designs inspired by nature and traditional Japanese art. The kimono also embodies the concept of “wabi-sabi”, which is a Japanese aesthetic that emphasizes the beauty of imperfection and the appreciation of the natural world.

The kimono’s design also reflects the concept of “ma”, which emphasizes the importance of space and the appreciation of emptiness. The fabric’s cut allows for a sense of openness and freedom. Additionally, the kimono embodies the concept of “iki”, which emphasizes simplicity and elegance, and is reflected in its design through a sense of sophistication and refinement. Furthermore, the kimono reflects “omotenashi”, which values hospitality and consideration for others, and is reflected in its design through a sense of warmth and comfort.

In summary, the kimono is a garment with deep roots in Japan’s culture and history. It serves as a symbol of Japanese culture and represents the country’s aesthetic values. Decorated with intricate patterns.

“Omotenashi” “Ikigai” “Ma” “Wabi-Sabi”

8th Century

The kosode, a simple, unlined robe with a small opening for the arms, becomes popular among Japanese nobility.

16th Century

The uchikake, a formal, ornately decorated overcoat worn over a kimono, becomes popular among Japanese women.

17th Century

The kimono becomes more diverse and colorful, with the development of new textile techniques such as tie-dyeing and embroidery.

Kimono for a Woman (Kosode), 1780-1820

19th Century

Western clothing becomes popular among the Japanese elite, leading to a decline in the traditional kimono.

20th Century

The kimono experiences a resurgence in popularity, and is worn by both men and women on formal occasions.

21th Century

Kimono continue to be worn in traditional ceremonies and events, but also being used as a fashion statement.

Timeless Elegance: The Traditonal Kimono

Kimono, meaning “wearing thing” in English, The kimono has evolved over time, beginning as a unisex outer garment called kosode in the Edo period (1603-1868) characterized by smaller armholes. It was only in the Meiji period (1868-1912) that the garment was referred to as kimono. During the Edo era, the kosode was a unifying cultural marker as every Japanese person wore it, regardless of age, gender, or socio-economic position. The kosode was also subject to sumptuary regulations, creating an intrinsic link between it and art and design. The kosode was often decorated with intricate patterns and designs, which were often inspired by nature and traditional Japanese art and were subject to aesthetic canons. The garment was also a way of conveying messages about the wearer’s identity and status through the use of motifs, fabric, techniques and colors.

Outer Kimono for a Young Woman (Uchikake) 1870-1900 Seventeenth century screen by Iwasa Matabei

Transformation in Fashion: The Late Edo Period Kimono

The late Edo period (1603-1868) was a time of great change in Japan, and fashion was no exception. During this period, fashion underwent a dramatic transformation from the traditional kimono to a more modern style of dress. This new style was heavily influenced by the influx of Western culture and technology, and it was a reflection of the changing times.

The traditional kimono was still worn by many during the late Edo period, but it was often modified to incorporate more modern elements. For example, the kimono was often shortened to the knee and the sleeves were widened. This allowed for more freedom of movement and a more modern look. Additionally, the obi (sash) was often replaced with a belt, and the traditional sandals were replaced with leather shoes.

In addition to the traditional kimono, a new style of dress emerged during the late Edo period. This style was known as the “jinbei” and it was a combination of traditional Japanese and Western elements. The jinbei was a long, loose-fitting garment that was often made of cotton or silk. It was usually worn with a wide belt and a pair of leather shoes. This style was popular among both men and women, and it was often seen as a symbol of modernity and sophistication.

The late Edo period also saw the emergence of a new type of hairstyle. This style was known as the “chonmage” and it was a topknot that was worn by men. This hairstyle was often seen as a sign of status and wealth, and it was a popular choice among the samurai class.

Kimono for a Woman (Kosode), 1780-1820 Underkimono for a man (juban), 1800-1850 Outer Kimono for a Young Woman (Uchikake), 18201850 Summer Kimono for a Woman (Katabira) 1820-1850

Rising Wealth and Demand: The Merchant Class in Edo Japan

Despite their low social status, the merchant class in Edo Japan saw a rise in wealth following the country’s opening in the mid 19th century, leading to an increased demand for kimonos with more intricate designs and decoration techniques such as dyeing and embroidery.

This elegant kimono is made of silk crepe (tango chairmen) and features freehand pasteresist dyeing (yūzen), as well as embroidery done in silk and metallic threads. The kimono design features a picturesque landscape scene with a pavilion nestled in the background. The focal point of the design is a grand gateway that stands tall in the foreground, surrounded by various elements such as fishing nets and a nobleman’s cart. The cart is finely detailed and adorned with intricate patterns and symbols. The fishing nets represent everyday life and the livelihood of the common people. The combination of these elements creates a unique and harmonious composition that showcases the diverse aspects of the society in the Edo period

Noblemen’s Cart Pavilion Outer Kimono for a Woman (Uchikake) 1800-1850 Fishing Nets Grand Gateway Outer Kimono for a Young Woman (Uchikake), 1840-1870

Elegant Attire: Formal Kimono of The 1850s

The elegant attire of women’s formal kimono of the 1850s was a reflection of the changing times in Japan. During this period, Japan was transitioning from a feudal society to a more modern one, and the traditional clothing of the time was beginning to reflect this shift. Women’s formal kimono of the 1850s were a symbol of sophistication and refinement, and were often made of luxurious fabrics such as silk and brocade. The kimono was typically long and loose-fitting, with wide sleeves and a wide obi (sash) tied around the waist. The kimono was often decorated with intricate patterns and designs, and could be accessorized with a variety of items such as fans, hairpins, and japanese sandles.

Plum Branch and Teapot Fan, Late 19th Century Sankura Kanzashi Japanese Geta Sandles Summer Kimono for a Woman (Katabira) 1820-1850

Elegant Attire: Formal Kimono of The 1850s

Kimonos were traditionally worn for formal occasions such as weddings, funerals, and other important events, as well as for more casual occasions like festivals and social gatherings. In the 1850s, the colors and patterns of kimonos were often used to reflect the wearer’s status and wealth. For example, a wealthy individual might choose a kimono with a more intricate pattern or brighter color than someone of a lower social class. Additionally, it was common for people to wear kimonos while going for tea.

Outer Kimono for a Women (Uchikake) 1880-1890 Image: The Khalili Collections
A woodblock print by the artist Toyohara Chikanobu depicts a tea ceremony during the reign of Japan’s Emperor Meiji. Under Meiji, tea was included in many schools as part of etiquette training for women.

Elegant Attire: Formal Kimono of The 1850s

The kimono was a symbol of elegance and sophistication, and was a reflection of the changing times in Japan. It was a popular choice for formal occasions, and could be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. Women’s formal kimono of the 1850s were a symbol of refinement and sophistication, and were often made of luxurious fabrics such as silk and brocade. The kimono was a popular choice for both everyday wear and formal occasions, and could be tailored to fit the individual’s body shape and size.

In Japanese folklore, cranes are viewed as symbols of longevity and good fortune due to their believed long life-span and association with the land of immortals. Unlike the hō-ō bird, which is purely fictional, cranes are considered to be real-life mythical creatures. The crane holds a special place in Japanese culture, with the Ainu tribes of northern Hokkaidō even performing a dance in celebration of their movements.

Impressed with gold and silver Crane Outer Kimono for a Young Woman (Uchikake) 1850-1880 Yūzen Dying Technique

Elegance and Symbolism: Traditional Japanese Wedding Kimonos and Accessories

(1) The “shiromuku,” is reserved for the bride during traditional Japanese weddings and is the most formal attire for the ceremony. Its origins can be traced back to the wedding customs of the samurai class.

(2) The formal kimono known as iro-uchikake is of the same caliber as the shiromuku, and is worn only during the wedding ceremony. With a wide range of colors and auspicious patterns to choose from, the iro-uchikake is a beautiful and traditional choice for Japanese weddings, rooted in the customs of samurai society.

(3) The furisode kimono, with its long sleeves and dragging hem, originated from wealthy farmers and merchants imitating the samurai class. This style is also known as “ohikizuri” or “dragging kimono.” It is said that this tradition started by families of wealthy farmers and merchants.

(4) The traditional and formal attire for grooms on their wedding day is the kuromontsuki, a black kimono adorned with the groom’s family symbol embroidered in white. This sleek and dignified ensemble is perfect for such a momentous occasion.

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Irouchikake colored kimono Hikifurisode long-sleeved kimono with trailing hem Kuromontsuki Shiromuku pure white kimono

Elegance and Symbolism:

Traditional Japanese Wedding Kimonos and Accessories

(1) A ceremonial kimono worn exclusively with shiromuku

(2) Only worn during wedding ceremonies. Unlike wataboshi, which must be worn with shiromuku, tsunokakushi can be paired with any formal attire.

(3) A decorative knife sheath worn in the obi, originally carried by samurai women for selfdefense, but now used as an accessory.

(4) All obijime feature a cotton core in the traditional ‘maruguke’ style, regardless of color choice.

(5) A decorative accessory worn under the breast, traditionally used to tie the obi, now known as ‘kanoko’.

(6) A thin obi wrapped below the main obi, used to hold up the kimono’s hem.

(7) The higher the heel, the more elegant the appearance. The bride’s zori are typically gold, but white zori for shiromuku.

(8) A collar accent worn with hikifurisode and furisode kimono, attached to the collar of the ‘jiban’ (kimono undergarment), to enhance the face area.

(9) A small bag carried with hikifurisode, similar to a cosmetic bag, it originated from the pouches used by samurai women to carry makeup during the Edo period.

(10) A folding fan held by the bride, symbolizing spreading happiness, with one side colored gold and the other silver, traditionally kept gold side out when carrying or wearing it.

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Wataboshi bridal headdress

Tsunokakushi bridal hood

Kaiken ceremonial dagger

Obijime decorative string for securing obi

Kakaeobi a kimono waist sash

Zori Japanese sandals

Haneri decorative kimono collar

Hakoseko ornamental pocketbook

Obiage a bustle for obi

Suehiro ceremonial folding fan

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Uncovering the Art and Culture of the Kimono: A Look into the Evolution of Japanese Textile Techniques

The techniques of dyeing and weaving fabric (senshoku) are indispensable to daily life. In Japan, these techniques are the culmination of centuries of tradition and fashion aesthetics going back to the court culture of the Heian period (794–1185), the samurai culture of the Azuchi-Momoyama period (1568–1600), and the merchant culture of the Edo period (1603–1868). (Gallery

Japan

Proccess:

Japanese dyeing and weaving use three basic types of thread: silk fiber, bast fiber (e.g., ramie), and cotton fiber.

The fabric is dyed

White fabric is dyed with designs in various colors. In yūzen dyeing, a resist paste is used to draw designs. In katazome stencil dyeing, patterns are created using stencils.

The dyed threads are woven to make fabric

Weaving is the process of interlacing vertical and horizontal threads on a loom to create fabric. Different dyeing and weaving techniques can be used to produce a variety of patterns. No matter how intricate the pattern, it is always made from an arrangement of vertical and horizontal threads.

The fabric is dyed

White fabric is dyed with designs in various colors. In yūzen dyeing, a resist paste is used to draw designs. In katazome stencil dyeing, patterns are created using stencils.

The thread is woven into fabric. The thread is dyed.

Textile Spotlight: Tango

Chirimen - Plain - Woven Silk

Crêpe

Tango chirimen is a type of plain-woven silk crêpe made in the Tango region of Kyoto Prefecture for over 300 years. It’s made of high twist raw silk yarn and is characterized by its textured surface. It’s made from the technique brought from China and it’s used for yūzen-dyed kimono. Despite the popularity of Europeanstyle dress, synthetic yarns, and mechanized weaving techniques, Tango chirimen has continued to thrive. The region is known for its expertise in producing chirimen and the tradition is passed down among local weavers today. It’s the largest manufacturer of silk textiles in Japan, accounting for a third of the country’s silk textile production.

Chirimen is a type of silk crepe fabric made from high twist raw silk yarns. It is known for its softness and wrinkle-resistance, and its unique textured surface, called shibo, sets it apart from other silk fabrics. Historically, plain white chirimen was commonly used as it could be easily dyed, making it an ideal choice for yūzen dyeing technique, which allows for intricate and precise designs to be hand-painted on the cloth. The shibo texture of chirimen also creates variations in tone and luster, adding depth and richness to the colors.

Chirimen is a type of silk crêpe made by spinning weft threads and weaving them with loosely twisted warp threads. The fabric is then scoured to create a bumpy texture known as shibo, and weavers can create different textures by adjusting the thread ratios and weave structure. The final product is inspected, and those that pass are stamped with unique Tango chirimen marks.

Plain white tango chirimen. Tango chirimen by Tayuh Textile Industry. Tango chirimen by Tayuh Textile Industry, based in Kyötango.

The refining process of Tango chirimen relies heavily on the quality of the water used. Skilled craftspeople closely monitor and control the water quality to ensure the best possible outcome for the fabric. These experts even use their sense of taste to evaluate the water and determine its effect on the final product.

The ‘Hatcho’ yarn twisting machine maintains the moisture of silk threads during the spinning process to prevent breakage.

After the refining process, the fabric is thoroughly cleaned, dried and inspected for any defects, including knots, using advanced inspection machinery.

After undergoing rigorous inspection, Tango chirimen fabrics that meet the standards of quality and authenticity are stamped with a seal to certify their excellence.

Today, the Jacquard loom is still used to weave Tango chirimen, but the process has been modernized. Instead of using punched cards, a computerized system is used to program the pattern data into the loom. This allows for even more intricate patterns to be created, and it also makes the process much faster and more efficient.

Dying Spotlight: Yuzen Dyeing

Yūzen dyeing is a traditional Japanese process that involves drawing designs on white fabric with a paste resist before dyeing. An outline of the design is first drawn using blue dye, then a paste resist is applied to create masked-off areas that prevent color mixing. There are two styles of yūzen: itome yūzen, which leaves fine white lines of undyed fabric, and sekidashi yūzen, which creates designs without white lines. The paste resist is made from sticky and white rice flour.

Proccess:

The blue dye of the Asiatic dayflower (aobana) is used to draw outlines and a paste resist is applied over the top.

A paste resist is applied over the design and any parts of the fabric to be kept white. Then the ground of the fabric is dyed a base color.

Once the paste dries, the design is dyed, and the fabric is steamed to set the colors.

The fabric is steamed to make the color set, and the finished fabric is washed.

Fashion Pioneers: The Present Influential Designers of the Japanese Kimono

Throughout the years, many fashion pioneers have been influential in the design and production of the Japanese kimono. These fashion pioneers have helped to shape the kimono into the iconic garment that it is today. From the traditional kimono of the Edo period to the modern kimono of today, these fashion pioneers have been instrumental in the evolution of the kimono.

One of the most influential fashion pioneers of the Japanese kimono is Junichi Arai. He is credited with creating the modern kimono, which is characterized by its bright colors and bold patterns. Arai was a master of the traditional Japanese dyeing techniques, and he used these techniques to create the vibrant colors and patterns that are seen in modern kimonos.

Another influential fashion pioneer of the Japanese kimono is Issey Miyake. Miyake is known for his innovative designs, which often feature bold colors and unique patterns. He is credited with creating the “A-line” kimono, which is characterized by its loose fit and flowing silhouette. Miyake’s designs have been popular among both men and women, and his influence on the kimono is undeniable.

Finally, Rei Kawakubo is another influential fashion pioneer of the Japanese kimono. Kawakubo is known for her avant-garde designs, which often feature asymmetrical shapes and bold colors. She is credited with creating the “deconstructed” kimono, which is characterized by its deconstructed silhouette and unique patterns. Kawakubo’s designs have been popular among both men and women, and her influence on the kimono is undeniable.

JUNICHI ARAI 1932 - 2017

Junichi Arai is a renowned Japanese kimono designer who has been creating beautiful kimonos for over 40 years. His designs are known for their intricate details and bold colors, and he has become a master of the traditional Japanese art of dyeing and weaving.

Arai’s kimonos are made from the finest fabrics, including silk, cotton, and linen. He uses traditional techniques such as shibori, a Japanese dyeing technique, to create unique patterns and textures. He also uses a variety of colors, from bright and vibrant to subtle and muted. His designs often feature intricate details such as embroidery, beading, and appliqué.

REI KAWAKUBO 1942 - current

Rei Kawakubo is a Japanese fashion designer and the founder of the iconic fashion label Comme des Garçons. She is widely regarded as one of the most influential and innovative fashion designers of the 20th century.

Kawakubo’s designs are often described as avant-garde and deconstructed, and she is known for her use of asymmetrical shapes, bold colors, and unconventional materials.

Her fascination with traditional Japanese kimono has been a major influence in her designs, which often incorporate elements of the garment. Her use of kimono has not only inspired other designers, but also popularized the kimono in the West through celebrity wear and magazine features. Her designs have also been exhibited in art shows.

Rei Kawakubo’s recent Comme des Garçons Women’s RTW Spring 2023 show in paris eatured a range of silhouettes, from voluminous and structured to more relaxed and draped. The fabrics used were also varied, from traditional Japanese silks to more modern materials like neoprene and vinyl. The colors were also varied, ranging from bright and bold to more muted and subtle. Kawakubo’s designs featured a variety of details that were inspired by the kimono. Kawakubo’s innovative approach to the kimono has helped to redefine the traditional garment and has had a significant impact on the fashion industry.

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Exploring the Current State of the Fashion Industry: Insights from Recent Research

Hiroko Takahashi, Chisato Tsumori, and MIYAGIHIDETAKA are three modern Japanese designers who are pushing the boundaries of fashion with their unique designs. These designers take inspiration from the traditional Japanese kimono and infuse it with contemporary elements to create a fusion of the past and the present. Hiroko Takahashi is known for her use of traditional Japanese fabrics and techniques, such as shibori dyeing, to create modern garments. Chisato Tsumori, on the other hand, combines the elegance of the kimono with a playful, avant-garde aesthetic. MIYAGIHIDETAKA, meanwhile, is known for his use of bold colors and geometric patterns, which are inspired by the kimono’s intricate patterns and motifs. Through their work, these designers are exploring the innovations of modern Japanese design, while also preserving and paying homage to the country’s rich cultural heritage.

HIROKO TAKHASHI 1977 - current

Hiroko Takahashi is a renowned Japanese fashion designer who is known for her unique and innovative designs of traditional kimonos. She has been in the industry since the early 1980s and has established herself as one of the most respected and sought-after kimono designers in Japan. Her designs are characterized by modern patterns, and silhouettes. Takahashi has also created a new style of kimono, referred to as the “Takahashi Kimono” which features a contemporary design and aesthetic.

The collaboration between Takahashi and Adidas is a great way to bring traditional Japanese fashion to a wider audience. The collection is a great way to introduce people to the beauty and elegance of traditional Japanese fashion, while also providing them with modern, comfortable clothing. The collection is also a great way to show that traditional fashion can be adapted to modern times, and that it can be just as fashionable and stylish as modern clothing.

Contemporary textile artist and founder of the HIROCOLEDGE brand, Takahashi Hiroko, showcased her innovative kimonos at Japan House London throughout August, 2020. Her kimonos feature geometric patterns made up of circles and straight lines, and her project ‘RENOVATION’ is inspired by the sustainable aspects of kimono. The kimono’s adaptable nature, which allows them to be adapted to any body type, male or female, without having to cut the fabric, and were often passed on to future generations, her project is all about renovating old kimonos by unstitching, de-colourising, re-dying and re-tailoring them. The exhibit coincides with Europe’s first major exhibition dedicated to kimono ‘Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk’ opened on the 27th August 2020 at the Victoria and Albert Museum, which featured one of Takahashi Hiroko’s kimonos.

Trend One: Sustainability

Sustainability in kimono fashion is focused on environmentally friendly and socially responsible practices, such as using natural materials, fair labor, repurposing old kimonos, and preserving traditional techniques to support local communities and culture. By embracing sustainability, kimono fashion can not only protect the environment but also promote cultural preservation and ethical production.

Kimono Sustainability

TSUMORI CHISATO 1954 - current

Tsumori Chisato is a well-known Japanese fashion designer known for her unique and playful designs that merge traditional Japanese elements with a contemporary aesthetic. She graduated from the prestigious Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, and began working with Issey Miyake in 1977 where she continued to form a solid foundation in the traditional techniques of Japanese textile and clothing design. Tsumori Chisato’s designs often feature bold patterns, bright colors, and whimsical elements, such as cartoon characters and playful prints.

She is known for her use of traditional Japanese fabrics and techniques, such as kimono silk, in her clothing line. Her brand, Tsumori Chisato, is a global luxury fashion brand, selling clothes, bags, and accessories worldwide.

Tsumori Chisato’s designs are often described as “a fusion of tradition and innovation,” as she takes inspiration from her Japanese heritage and combines it with modern elements to create a unique and playful aesthetic.

Tsumori Chisato’s recent SS23 collection “Forever Adventure” takes inspiration from the theme of adventure, as evident in her unique and playful designs. The collection features traditional Japanese materials and a playful color palette. Even though Tsumori Chisato is based in Paris, she frequently travels for work and research. However, she remains connected to her roots by incorporating her signature A-line silhouettes, which are inspired by modern kimono styles into her designs.

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2022 AW - Retro FlowerSeries Low-cut Shoes 2022 AW - Morino Dobutsu ShishuSeries Kimono Inspired Wool Cardigan

Trend Two: Fusion of Traditional and Modern Styles

The fusion of traditional and modern styles in kimono fashion is a trend that has been gaining popularity in recent years. Modern designers are taking traditional kimonos and giving them a modern twist, resulting in a range of styles that combine traditional elements with modern silhouettes and fabrics.

Fusion of Traditional and Modern

Trend Three: Japanese Street Style

Japanese street style incorporates traditional kimono elements into modern, everyday looks. This can include pairing kimono-style tops or dresses with jeans, layering kimonos over t-shirts and shorts, and accessorizing with traditional obi belts and geta sandals. Street style enthusiasts are also experimenting with unconventional ways of wearing kimono, such as pairing it with denim or styling it in untraditional ways. This fusion of traditional and modern styles is popular and influential worldwide.

MIYAGIHIDETAKA 1974 - current

Miyagihidetaka is a Japanese designer who is pushing the boundaries of traditional kimono fashion by infusing it with modern street wear. His designs blend the elegance of kimono with the edginess of street wear, resulting in a unique and eye-catching aesthetic. He’s bringing a new life to kimono, making it more accessible and appealing to the new generation. Considered a leader in the world of Japanese street wear kimono fashion.

Designer Chisato Tsumori

Kimono Japanese Street-wear

Exploring the Japanese Fashion Industry: A Market Analysis

The Japanese apparel market is a mature and highly competitive industry, with a mix of domestic and international players. The market is valued at around $40 billion in 2021 and is expected to continue growing in the coming years. Consumers in Japan are characterized by a strong focus on quality, design, and brand loyalty, which has led to a high average purchase price for clothing. The market is heavily influenced by seasonal trends, streetwear and eco-friendly practices. The e-commerce market for clothing in Japan is also growing rapidly.

Exploring the Japanese Fashion Industry: The Age of Coronavirus in Japan

- Japan’s economy has been negatively impacted by the global coronavirus outbreak, with GDP dropping 27.8% in the April-June period of 2020, the biggest drop since WWII.

- A sharp recovery is unlikely due to concerns about additional waves of infections.

-Many experts predict it will take until 2024 for GDP to recover from its peak in 2019 due to declines in exports and consumer spending.

- The decline in consumer spending has had a significant impact on fashion companies in Japan, but as of October 2020, few have been forced into bankruptcy.

- Some fashion companies like UNIQLO have posted positive sales growth, while others like department store operators have experienced significant declines.

- Japan’s economic recovery is expected to be faster than other countries but still slow.

Exploring the Japanese Fashion Industry: Exports of Clothing & Accessories in Japan

The exports of clothing and clothing accessories in Japan decreased to 10,493.90 JPY million in November from 11,376.12 JPY million in October of 2022. This represents a decline of approximately 8% in exports for the clothing and clothing accessories industry in Japan. The reasons for this decrease in exports could be due to a variety of factors such as changes in consumer demand, global economic conditions, or shifts in trade policies

*Japan Exports of Clothing & Clothing Accessories - December 2022 Data*

Exploring the Japanese Fashion Industry: Imports of Clothing in Japan

The imports of clothing in Japan decreased to 122,986.81 JPY million in November from 157,847.06 JPY million in October of 2022. This represents a decline of approximately 22% in imports for the clothing industry in Japan. The reasons for this decrease in imports could be due to a reflection of a decrease in consumer spending or a shift towards domestically produced clothing. Additionally, it may also indicate a change in import policies or tariffs.

*Japan Imports of Clothing - December 2022 Data*

Exploring the Future State of the Fashion Industry: Insights from Recent Research

The future of Japanese kimono fashion is likely to be shaped by a combination of tradition and innovation. On one hand, the kimono has a long history and cultural significance in Japan, and there will likely continue to be a market for traditional, hand-made kimonos made with high-quality materials. On the other hand, there is also a growing interest in modern and avant-garde interpretations of the kimono, as well as in ways to make the kimono more accessible and wearable in everyday life. This could include the use of new materials and technologies, as well as the incorporation of contemporary designs and patterns. It is also likely that the kimono will continue to be worn at events such as weddings and traditional festivals, and that it will become a more common sight in the streets of Japan as well. The metaverse is also expected to play a big role in the future of kimono, with virtual kimonos becoming a popular trend in the virtual world, giving people the opportunity to experience the beauty of the kimono without the need to physically wear it.

The Meta-Verse Kimono: A Fusion of Tradition and Innovation in Virtual Fashion

The kimono is becoming popular in the metaverse fashion as it allows for creative and experimental designs. In virtual worlds, it can be designed with a wide range of colors, patterns and materials, making it appealing to a broader range of people. Additionally, people can customize and personalize kimonos, reflecting their personal style. As the metaverse continues to grow, it’s likely that kimono will remain a popular choice for virtual fashion enthusiasts.

Metaverse Kimono

Sport kimono. Full 3D fashion model

Tailored

Streetwear:

Modernizing the Traditional Kimono

Tailored streetwear kimono is a new trend that modernizes traditional kimono by mixing traditional cuts, fabrics and designs with modern street fashion. It appeals to a younger generation, is often worn with streetwear essentials, and is designed for everyday wear, being more versatile for different occasions. This will continute to be a trend for the kimono

Supreme x Sasquatchfabrix. Hanten Jacket

Guerrilla Group: EYES & SINS Noragi Jacket

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Ap, Tiffany, and Tiffany Ap. “Junichi Arai’s Textile Innovations on Display.” WWD, 11 Dec. 2017, wwd.com/ fashion-news/textiles/gallery/junichi-arais-textile-innovations-on-display-11070632/. Accessed 24 Jan. 2023.

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BRAND NEWS K.K. Japan Fashion Market Opportunities and Trends 2021. 2021.

Chisato, Tsumori. “COLLECTION | TSUMORI CHISATO.” Tsumorichisato.co.jp, 2023, tsumorichisato. co.jp/collection/.

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Visual References:

Published on March 25, 2020

Free to use under the Unsplash License

Yamato hasedera. [Translation: Hasedera in Yamato Province].

Woodcut print by Utagawa Hiroshige, 1859. Library of Congress Prints & Photographs Division. https://www.loc.gov/ resource/jpd.01361/

Yayoi asukayama hanami.

[Translated title: Third Lunar Month, Blossom Viewing at Asuka Hill]. Woodcut print by Kitao Shigemasa, [between 1772 and 1776]. Library of Congress Prints & Photographs Division. https://www.loc.gov/resource/ jpd.02258/

[Hanging poems on a cherry tree]. Woodcut by Ishikawa Toyonobu, [1741, printed later]. Library of Congress Prints & Photographs Division. https:// www.loc.gov/resource/jpd.02148/

Uchikake

https://aminoapps.com/c/ japan/page/blog/typesof-women-kimono/x3s2_

uwdMJjRparaNa8NMKwo43ZDG3

Japan and Nara: Buddhist art of the eighth century

https://moderntokyotimes.com/ japan-and-nara-buddhist-art-ofthe-eighth-century/

[ 1920s Japan - Three Japanese Man and a Woman ] — Group

Portrait of four young Japanese with the woman in kimono, one man in traditional Japanese clothing and two in Western style business suits. 20th century vintage gelatin silver print. www.jstor.com

A young woman wearing a kimono.

https://mk.wikipedia.org/ wiki/%D0%9A%D0%B8%D0%BC%D0%BE%D0%BD%D0%BE

Streetwear Kimono

www.vouge.com

Wey, 1882-83, William Morris. Watercolour for Printed Fabric Design www.Unplash.com

Outer Kimono for a Young Woman (Uchikake) 1870-1900

Khalili Collection of Kimono

Kimono for a Woman (Kosode) 1780-1820

Khalili Collection of Kimono

Seventeenth century screen by Iwasa Matabei, www.WikimediaCommons.com

Outer Kimono for a Young Woman (Uchikake) 1820-1850

Khalili Collection of Kimono

Outer Kimono for a Woman (Uchikake) 1800-1850

Khalili Collection of Kimono

Underkimono for a man (juban) 1800-1850

Khalili Collection of Kimono

Japanese Fan https://japanobjects.com/features/ japanese-fans

Summer Kimono for a Woman (Katabira)

1820-1850

Khalili Collection of Kimono

Five Prints of Flowers in Glass Vases, created in the late 1600’s. Provided by Rijksmuseum, Netherlands. PD for Public Domain Mark

Jon Tyson www.Unsplash.com

Outer Kimono for a Young Woman (Uchikake) 1840-1870

Khalili Collection of Kimono

Sakura Kanzashi https://japanobjects.com/features/ kanzashi

Geta https://www.japan-zone.com/ culture/footwear.shtml

Outer Kimono for a Women (Uchikake) 1880-1890

Khalili Collection of Kimono

A woodblock print by the artist Toyohara Chikanobu depicts a tea ceremony during the reign of Japan’s Emperor Meiji. Under Meiji, tea was included in many schools as part of etiquette training for women.

Toyohara Chikanobu/via Wikimedia

Outer Kimono for a Young Woman (Uchikake) 1850-1880

Khalili Collection of Kimono

Shiromuku

https://d-weddingphoto.com/ item/japanese/

Tsunokakushi

https://d-weddingphoto.com/ item/japanese/

Kaiken https://d-weddingphoto.com/ item/japanese/

Irouchikake

https://d-weddingphoto.com/ item/japanese/

Obijime

https://d-weddingphoto.com/ item/japanese/

Hikifurisode

https://d-weddingphoto.com/ item/japanese/

Obiage https://d-weddingphoto.com/ item/japanese/

Kuromontsuki

https://d-weddingphoto.com/ item/japanese/

Suehiro https://d-weddingphoto.com/ item/japanese/

Wataboshi

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Kakaeobi

https://d-weddingphoto.com/ item/japanese/

Zori

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Chirimen Silk

https://www.japanhouselondon. uk/discover/tango-chirimen/

Haneri

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Chirimen Silk

https://www.japanhouselondon. uk/discover/tango-chirimen/

Hakoseko

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Chirimen Silk

https://www.japanhouselondon. uk/discover/tango-chirimen/

Japanese Prints Cotton Fabric Kimono

https://www.etsy.com/ca/ listing/802765597/japaneseprints-cotton-fabric-kimono

Nickolas Nikolic

https://unsplash.com/photos/_ KCrSolz6FI

Chirimen Silk

https://www.japanhouselondon. uk/discover/tango-chirimen/

‘Hatcho’ yarn twisting machine

https://www.japanhouselondon. uk/discover/tango-chirimen/

Japanese Textile Production Area

https://www.seni-search.jp/japan_ products_en.html

Jacquard Looms

https://www.japanhouselondon. uk/discover/tango-chirimen/

Water Quality

https://www.japanhouselondon. uk/discover/tango-chirimen/

Yuzen Dying Process

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Inspection machine

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Syuhei Inoue

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Stamps

https://www.japanhouselondon. uk/discover/tango-chirimen/

Junichi Arai in 1990 with some of his textile designs. “He is the greatest influence on textile design in the world today,” a fellow textile designer said in 2004. Credit...Angel Franco/The New York Times

https://www.nytimes. com/2022/05/13/obituaries/ junichi-arai-overlooked.html

Yuzen Dying Process

https://galleryjapan.com/locale/ en_US/technique/textiles/20101/

“Scarf,” 1993.Credit...Matt Flynn via Smithsonian Institution

https://www.nytimes. com/2022/05/13/obituaries/ junichi-arai-overlooked.html

Yuzen Dying Process

https://galleryjapan.com/locale/ en_US/technique/textiles/20101/

Shawl, 1989 (made), Junichi Arai

https://collections.vam.ac.uk/ item/O103286/shawl-arai-junichi/

Yuzen Dying Process

https://galleryjapan.com/locale/ en_US/technique/textiles/20101/

Junichi Arai Crinkled Sheer Fabric c. 1995

https://encyclopedia. design/2022/09/27/junichi-arai1932-japanese-textile-designerand-producer/

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Gallery View, Clothes/Not Clothes: War/PeacePhoto: Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

https://www.vogue.com/article/metgala-2017-exhibtion-by-the-numbers

“Korean Carrot,” 1986. Credit...Smithsonian Institution

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Rei Kawakubo

Photograph by Eiichiro Sakata

https://www.newyorker.com/ books/double-take/creative-life

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https://www.forbes.com/sites/ jonathonkeats/2017/05/08/reikawakubo/?sh=30d52a331221

Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), The Infinity of Tailoring, autumn/winter 2013–14; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons.

Photograph by © Collier Schorr; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art

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Comme Des Garcons SS23

RTW

https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2023-ready-towear/comme-des-garcons/ slideshow/collection#07

Comme Des Garcons SS23

RTW

https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2023-ready-towear/comme-des-garcons/ slideshow/collection#08

Comme Des Garcons SS23

RTW

https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2023-ready-towear/comme-des-garcons/ slideshow/collection#17

Comme Des Garcons SS23

RTW

https://www.vogue.com/fashionshows/spring-2023-ready-towear/comme-des-garcons/ slideshow/collection#18

Shinjuku Yakitori Alley (Memory Lane / Piss Alley), Tokyo, Japan.

https://unsplash.com/photos/ tKCd-IWc4gI

Pedestrians walking on a fine Autumn day around a local shopping street intersecting with KandaMyojin Avenue, Chiyoda City, Tokyo, Japan.

https://unsplash.com/photos/ Y9S3k9y8R4c

Hiroko Takahashi speaks in an interview on Feb. 17 in Tokyo’s Sumida Ward. (Yoko Hasegawa)

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PORTRAIT: Standing Black Kimonos © TAKAHASHIHIROKO

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Casey Horner

https://unsplash.com/@ mischievous_penguins

Takahashihiroko x Adidas

https://takahashihiroko.jp/ collaboration/adidas-2021/

Around the late 19th to early 20th centuries, asehajiki were worn under kimono to repel perspiration. Used paper with ink writing was spun into filaments and knitted to make an undergarment. Because it is spun from washi made of plant fiber, the material is strong and durable. | PHOTO: ASATO SAKAMOTOhttps://sustainable. japantimes.com/magazine/vol10/10-04

Takahashihiroko x Adidas

https://takahashihiroko.jp/ collaboration/adidas-2021/

Takahashihiroko x Japanese London House

https://takahashihiroko.jp/ collaboration/japan-houselondon-2020/

Takahashihiroko x Japanese London House

https://takahashihiroko.jp/ collaboration/japan-houselondon-2020/

Sudō Reiko and Nuno, Vitrine (photo courtesy the Center for Hertiage Arts & Textile Hong Kong)

https://hyperallergic.com/680646/ a-japanese-designers-vision-forbeautiful-sustainable-textiles/

TAKAHASHIHIROKO

https://www.japanhouselondon. uk/whats-on/2020/renovationkimono-and-sustainability/

A Gallery Shili jumper made from a used kimono.

Photographer: Lorenzo Barassi

https://www.bloomberg.com/ news/features/2022-06-11/japans-discarded-kimonos-get-newlife-as-redesigned-casual-wear

Tamaki and Nodoka

https://japan-forward.com/ kimono-style-sustainablefashion-a-mother-daughterpassion-for-kimono/

KIMONO: A Tradition of Sustainable Fashion

https://ny.jpf.go.jp/event/kimonoa-tradition-of-sustainablefashion/

Kimono Inspired Wool

Cardigan Chisato Tsumori

http://tsumorichisatocarry.jp/

Chisato Tsumori SS2023

Collection

https://tsumorichisato.co.jp/ collection/

Chisato Tsumori

https://prtimes.jp/main/html/ rd/p/000001272.000008372.html

Chisato Tsumori SS2023

Collection

https://tsumorichisato.co.jp/ collection/

Chisato Tsumori Website

https://tsumorichisato.co.jp/ collection/

2022 AW - Retro FlowerSeries

http://tsumorichisatocarry.jp/?all

Chisato Tsumori SS2023

Collection

https://tsumorichisato.co.jp/ collection/

Low-cut Shoes Chisato Tsumori

http://tsumorichisatocarry.jp/

Chisato Tsumori SS2023

Collection

https://tsumorichisato.co.jp/ collection/

Recycling the Japanese Kimono: An Experiment in Western Fusion

https://inkberrowdesigncentre. co.uk/recycling-the-japanesekimono-an-experiment-inwestern-fusion/

Visual References:

Outdoor Japanese Kimono

https://www.timeout.com/ tokyo/shopping/kimono-remixtraditional-japanese-attire-gets-amodern-makeover

Nylon haori by Trove

https://www.timeout.com/ tokyo/shopping/kimono-remixtraditional-japanese-attire-gets-amodern-makeover

Modern Japanese fashion by Y. & Sons

https://www.timeout.com/ tokyo/shopping/kimono-remixtraditional-japanese-attire-gets-amodern-makeover Kae Ng

https://unsplash.com/photos/ grOTReWUHhU

MIYAGIHIDETAKA

https://juicestore.com/blogs/ editorial/miyagihidetakainterview

© HIGHSNOBIETY / VOLKER CONRADUS

https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/ miyagihidetaka-highsnobietycollection/

© HIGHSNOBIETY / VOLKER CONRADUS

https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/ miyagihidetaka-highsnobietycollection/

2022 AW - Morino Dobutsu ShishuSeries

http://tsumorichisatocarry.jp/

The Best Street Style From Tokyo Fashion Week Spring 2020

https://www.vogue.com/ vogueworld/slideshow/tokyofashion-week-street-stylespring-2020

The Best Street Style From Tokyo Fashion Week Spring 2020

https://www.vogue.com/ vogueworld/slideshow/tokyofashion-week-street-stylespring-2020

© HIGHSNOBIETY / VOLKER CONRADUS

https://www.highsnobiety.com/p/ miyagihidetaka-highsnobietycollection/

10 Kimono Wraps to Take You from the Music Festival to the Beach in Knockout Summer Style

2015

https://www.vogue.com/article/ festival-dressing-kimono-wraps

Milan, fall 2022 ready-towear Photographed by Phil Oh

The Kimono in Street Style

https://www.vogue.com/article/ street-style-fashion-weekkimono-street-style-history

New York, Photographed by Phil Oh

The Kimono in Street Style

https://www.vogue.com/article/ street-style-fashion-weekkimono-street-style-history

Tokyo, fall 2022 ready-towear Photographed by Kira/ Tokyofashion.com

The Kimono in Street Style

https://www.vogue.com/article/ street-style-fashion-weekkimono-street-style-history

Tokyo, fall 2022 ready-towear Photographed by Kira/ Tokyofashion.com

The Kimono in Street Style

https://www.vogue.com/article/ street-style-fashion-weekkimono-street-style-history

https://twitter.com/ daaaaaicham

https://tokyofashion.com/ japanese-fashion-designer-gothickimono-corset/

COVID-19 JAPAN

https://gcap.global/news/ impact-of-covid-19-pandemicon-inequalities-in-asia-secondedition-of-report-published/

Tokyo’s Jaw-Dropping Neon City

https://thecreativeadventurer. com/the-ultimate-guide-toshinjuku-tokyo-jaw-droppingneon-city/

Exports of Clothing Japan

https://tradingeconomics.com/

Imports of Clothing Japan

https://tradingeconomics.com/

Melinda Manunta

https://www.artstation.com/ artwork/14RYle

Guilherme Stecanella

https://unsplash.com/photos/ EefsBN5B5GE

MetaverseKimono

https://opensea.io/collection/ metaversekimono

Supreme x Sasquatchfabrix.

Hanten Jacket

https://hypebeast.com/2016/5/5kimono-styles-reinterpreted-instreetwear-this-season

Guerrilla Group: EYES & SINS

Noragi Jacket

https://hypebeast.com/2016/5/5kimono-styles-reinterpreted-instreetwear-this-season

Meriç Dağlı

https://unsplash.com/ photos/7NBO76G5JsE

Daniele Levis Pelusi

https://unsplash.com/photos/ UMZQ_cYWJns

Massaki-hen yori Suijin no mori uchigawa sekiya no sato o miru zu. [Translation: View from Massaki of Suijin Shrine, Uchigawa Inlet, and Sekiya]. Woodcut print by Andō

Hiroshige, [1857]. Library of Congress Prints & Photographs Division. https://www.loc.gov/ resource/jpd.02920/

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