Zadar In Your Pocket No11

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Zadar Summer 2014

zadar.inyourpocket.com N°11 - Complimentary copy

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Nightlife Foreword

4 The editor’s choice on what not to miss this summer

History

5

6

10

21

22

28

From pork knuckle to tofu burgers

Coffe & Cakes Grab a book and watch the world go by

59

A fine selection of places to spend the night 61

Grown up important stuff

Maps & Index

Fresh and always a buzz!

Restaurants

56

We’ll help you get rid of that extra cash

Directory

Insider tips

Local Flavour

46

Spending a few days around Zadar

Hotels

Everything that’s on in Zadar

Zadar Pulse

37

Shopping

Wherefore beer?

Culture & Events

Sightseeing Check out the highlights

Zadar Surroundings

Kings, queens, rooks and pawns

Arriving & Getting Around

35

Party hard in the city that never sleeps

34

Street index City map City centre map County map Country map

62 62 64 66 67

The traditional ‘Musical Evenings at St. Donat’ pays special attention to nurturing music of the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and early Baroque periods.

Photo by Željko Karavida

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Foreword Summer has struck and the forecast indicates another sizzling season of fun and excitement in Zadar. Our crew has worked day and night to gather all of the latest in where to be and what to do. We have something for everyone! A comprehensive guide to the city’s architectural monuments will dazzle sightseers, not to mention our special on the ancient fortresses that were built in defending this gem of a city. Nature enthusiasts will be treated to some of the finest national parks and islands in Europe whilst those that seek an adrenalin rush, can fill their calendars with adventure sports throughout the entire summer. As you have chosen your stay along the Adriatic, we cannot leave without mentioning the gastronomic delights that await you. Our pages on cafés and restaurants are practical and provide some insightful tips in choosing where to nibble and dine. We wish you all a sensational summer

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-0852 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Zadar In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Design Maja Knezić Photography Zadar In Your Pocket unless otherwise stated Cover © Boris Kačan Sales & Circulation Menager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

ABOUT IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year

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Zadar In Your Pocket

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History In the 15th century, internal fights within the CroatianHungarian state resulted in its loss of influence in Dalmatia, and Zadar, together with much of the surrounding mainland and islands, were sold to Venice for 100 000 ducats. Although there was widescale repression of the local inhabitants, Zadar remained the capital of Dalmatia under Venice. It was the main port and naval base on the East Adriatic. Building continued - this was the late Gothic and early Renaissance period.

In the 16th century, Turkey invaded inland Dalmatia, and Zadar retreated behind reinforced bastions, and, aided by the Venetian colonisers, became the largest city-fortress in the Venetian Republic. Although trade withered, art and culture experienced a further period of blossoming. Plague, however, ravaged the city.

In 1699, a peace was concluded with the Turks signalling the end of war. A century later, Napoleon‘s armies defeated Venice, and Zadar and Dalmatia were peacefully attached to the Hapsburg Empire, only to be handed back to the French in 1805. Under the French, Zadar enjoyed eight years of social reform and awakening of public consciousness, until the Austrians took the city back again in 1813.

The Austrians administered the region from Zadar for the next hundred years. The regime, although strict, was in many ways progressive. Museums were founded, road links improved, and the first modern city water system was completed in 1838. Croatians in Zadar, with an ever-growing awaress of national identity, began to press for linguistic and political autonomy. The Dalmatian Parliament (Sabor) was founded in 1861. Peace reigned, and in 1868, some of the outer fortifications surrounding the Old Town were

dismantled, giving the southern side (the Riva) its present promenade. Parks were built, and cultural life prospered once more. In 1898 Zadar was connected to the electricity grid - the first town in what is now Croatia.

In 1918, the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed, and the 1920 treaty of Rapallo between Italy and the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes handed a section of the coast, including Zadar, to the Italians, who called it Zara. Zadar remained under Italian rule until it was occupied by the Germans, then liberated by the Allies in 1944, to become part of Tito‘s Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, in the process, they bombed 65 percent of the city to ruins.

However, in the 1950s an enthusiastic programme of rebuilding took place. Many of the buildings on Široka ulica (or Kalelarga) the beloved main throroughfare of the old town, date back to this time. Industry developed and the population expanded fivefold from its post-war number of 6000.

In the 1960s, the importance of tourism grew.

Relative peace and prosperity began to fall apart during the 1980s when economic problems and the decay of the Socialist bloc led to national unrest. Croatia found itself in an untenable position within the borders of Yugoslavia, and Zadar in an even more uncomfortable position with a volatile Serb majority in the Krajina hinterland. During the war of 1991-1995, Zadar was under siege for three months, and bombarded from positions further afield for most of the duration of the war. The population was forced underground, surviving on inadequate supplies of food and water.

Though the scars of all these wars are still visible, rebuilding is now taking place in every sense.

Mario Padelin Family

Built in 1918 Zadar boasts its very own Sphinx. Come take a look and see if you can unravel this Sphinx's riddle where others have failed!

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Arriving & Getting Around

BY BUS The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub and has everything you need. Left luggage (garderoba) is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 3kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms and in front of the building. Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 10kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 16kn ticket bought at the ticket office (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you two trips.

ZADAR COACH STATION Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:40 - 22:00.QO-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, kontakt@ liburnija-zadar.hr, www.autobusni-kolodvor.com.

BY CAR

BY BOAT Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the ferries dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see there.

JADROLINIJA Jadrolinija’s international services connect Zadar with Ancona (Italy) almost every day. Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it’s well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying the timetable, or ask for help at the office. These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board.Tickets for local catamarans and international ferries can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.

QC-2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 00, www. jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

MIATOURS QB-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/(+38523) 25 44 00, info@miatours.hr, www.miatours.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Fri 08:00 - 17:00, Sun 17:00 - 19:30. A 6

Zadar In Your Pocket

The A1 motorway between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most currencies are accepted.

BY PLANE Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at a newsstand and use one of the public pay phones. Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.

ZADAR AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA ZADAR) Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European destinations. Charter flights during summer.

Croatia Airlines desk is Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun according to flight schedule and also 90mins before Croatia Airlines and Lufthansa departures.QZemunik Donji, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, info@zadar-airport.hr, www.zadar-airport.hr. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Arriving & Getting Around PUBLIC TRANSPORT City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00.

There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 16kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (10kn for one trip).

TAXI There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which an equally varied array of prices apply.

Ranging from 20kn to 40kn for a 5km trip, your safest bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi. Be aware that a night supplement of 20% applies, and a 60 kn/hr waiting rate is standard. Please make sure the meter is turned on when you enter, for your and the driver’s sake.

PARKING Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact that within the walls most of it is pedestianised. There are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal.

There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking in Zadar every day from Jul 1 to Aug 31, 08:00-22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. In May, June and September, 08:00 -22:00 every day except Sunday at the following rates: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. From October 1 to April 30, 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00 and not Sun, charges are as follows: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRES TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE QD-3, Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, info@ tzzadar.hr, www.tzzadar.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 08:00 -24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -24:00. October Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.

ZADAR TOURIST BOARD QD-3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+385-23) 21 17 81, tzg-zadar@zd.t-com.hr, www. tzzadar.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. ZADAR COUNTY TOURIST BOARD QA-3, Sv.Leopolda Mandića 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31 51 07, tz-zd-zup@zd.t-com.hr, www.zadar.hr. Open 07.00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Arriving & Getting Around TEXT MESSAGE PARKING Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay for parking by text message! Look for the signs in parking areas – they should have a blue or white field.

Simply send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to the six digit number shown.

CAR RENTAL DOLLAR & THRIFTY Also at Zadar airport, Open 08:00 - 20:00.QN-6, Bože Peričića 14 (Hotel Kolovare), tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/ (+385-) 098 42 48 91, zadar@subrosa.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A HERTZ QZadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-) 091 415 55 42, zadar.ap@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. A LULIĆ Also at Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 32. Open 07:00 - 23:00.QF4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/(+385-) 098 31 37 47, info@lulic.hr, www.lulic.hr. Open 07:00 23:00. A ORYX Also at Zadar airport, tel. 34 84 15, Open 07:00 - 20:00.QB2, Vrata Sv. Krševana bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 43 01/(+385-) 099 634 93 27, www.oryx-rent.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun by prior arrangemet. A RENT A - H ZADAR Rent a scooter.QL-5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+38523) 23 66 00/(+385-) 098 41 43 22, rent-ah@zd.t-com. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

TERRA TRAVEL AGENCY Informative staff offer a wide range of group and individual bookings for cruises, air flights, accommodation, rentals, currency exchange and more. Adventure enthusiasts can pick and choose from the amount of available packages on offer. So for all your travel needs choose Terra!

TERRA QG - 2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94, fax (+385-23) 33 72 95, info@terratravel.hr, www. terratravel.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00. A

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Leisure Photo By Luca Bergami

BEACHES

RENT A BIKE

If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you can head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side of the Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The traditional town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the Old Town. Although the water is clean, unfortunately the pebble beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone would only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble that have somehow found their way there. Kolovare beach does have good faciltites including cafes and restaurants, and is a good place to hang out, day or night. Behind Taverna Kolovare are public toilets and you can play table tennis in the shade. There are more secluded bathing spots all the way to the headland in the east. Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are plenty of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles. The further west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets. Diklo still has plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kožino is a refined area of villas. If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either the crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy bays at Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly good for active types and families with children, as the holiday settlement has tons of sports and games going on, the beach is huge and the water is shallow. For those interested in culture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient settlements and there are curative mud baths nearby. But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands. Closest is the island of Ošljak.

One ferry a day stops there on the way to Preko on Ugljan (at 11:00) and picks you up at 18:00. But the further you venture, the better it gets. All the islands we feature in Around Zadar have their own little pieces of heaven. Hire a boat, and pick yours! And once you get to the quieter islands, of course, you can find secluded places where you can happily sun yourself au naturel, undisturbed.

CALIMERO QM-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 10 10/(+385-) 095 300 40 00, www.calimero-sport.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A MONDENA TRAVEL QD-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 3, tel. (+385-23) 31 37 47/ (+385-) 098 65 47 02, info@mondenatravel.hr, www. mondenatravel.hr. Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:30 - 20:30, Sat 08:30 - 13:30, Sun by prior arrangement. N ZZUUM QD-3, Špire Brusine 12, tel. (+385-) 095 821 77 20/ (+385-) 091 733 16 10, info@zzuum.com, www.zzuum. com. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.

BIKING The Ravni Kotari plains in the hinterland offer gentle terrain for a spot of touring. One of the oldest cycling routes is between Zadar and Benkovac, where you can experience local hospitality in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient ruins of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko Jezero offer gentle terrain, though some routes pass canyons and higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The islands of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly well-developed tradition of active tourism, and a number of routes cater both for those wanting a gentle sight-seeing tour allowing you to see some of the islands’ finest churches and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers demanding more challenging terrain. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

HORSE RIDING KONJIČKI CENTAR LIBERTAS QZaton Holliday Resort, Zaton - Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 47 22 27, info@horse-center-libertas.hr, www.horsecenter-libertas.hr. Open 07:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

RAFTING BORA TOURS They also organise rafting, kayaking and canoeing expeditions.QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 33 77 60, info@boratours.hr, www.boratours.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 17:30 - 19:00. A

SCUBA DIVING SCUBA ADRIATIC QM-3, Zaton Holiday Resort, Zaton - Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 68 69 99/(+385-) 098 27 38 31, info@scubaadriatic. com, www.scubaadriatic.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

ZADAR SUB QN-2, Dubrovačka 20a, tel. (+385-23) 21 48 48/(+385-) 099 530 04 78, zadarsub@zadarsub.hr, www.zadarsub. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

ZLATNA LUKA QMarina Dalmacija, Bibinje - Sukošan, tel. (+385-) 091 252 80 21, info@diving-zlatnaluka.net, www.divingzlatnaluka.net. Open 10:00 - 18:00. N

WINDSURFING .SURFMANIA CENTRE QKraljičina beach, Sabunike, Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 912 98 18, info@surfmania.hr, www.surfmania.hr. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

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Culture & Events 30.08 SATURDAY - 01.09 MONDAY 6TH MONOPLAY - FESTIVAL OF SOLOS This is the 6th Monoplay festival featuring contemporary dances and solo performances by Croatian and foreign dancers and choreographers. Along with the dance performances, workshops and lectures will be offered. Let your body feel the music as you watch these modern and innovative dances.

QD-3, Sokolska ulica, Zadar Puppet Theatre. J

Monokulise - Zadar Dance Ansamble

CLASSICAL MUSIC CONCERTS ETHNO 07.08 THURSDAY MAKSIM MRVICA Maksim Mrvica is a Croatian pianist who plays classical crossover music. This classical genius started playing the piano at the age of nine and has since then performed in international beauty pageants and at the MTV awards. His album, The Piano Player, was so popular in Asia that it held the number 1 slot on the HMV international pop chart in Hong Kong for twelve consecutive weeks!QB-3, Forum. J

DANCE EVENTS 05.08 TUESDAY FOOTLOOSE THE MUSICAL A city boy comes to a small town where rock music and dancing have been banned, and in his endeavor to change all this, a fast pitched, emotional, rhythmic and energetic story is born. Based on the hit 1984 film, this musical is a contemporary remake with all the gloss, choreography and great music.

It is the first private musical production in Croatian and at the Broadway level. Event starts at 22:00.QB-3, Forum. J 05.09 FRIDAY - 07.09 SUNDAY CREDO MUSICAL Dubbed as one of the best Christian theatrical shows and is performed by members of the Cenacolo Community; an organization giving people with addictions new life. QB-3, Forum. J

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02.08 SATURDAY LADO - NATIONAL FOLK DANCE ENSEMBLE OF CROATIA LADO, the Croatian Folk Dance Ensemble, was founded in 1949 as a professional national institution responsible for keeping the folk tradition alive. It has a repertoire of over 100 choreographed pieces, several hundred vocal and instrumental numbers, and over 1000 costumes representing the folk tradition across Croatia. All material is researched by experts who delve deep into the past but also consider that the folk tradition is created by the people, is alive and free to express itself. Lado really is a national treasure, and if you should get the chance to see them, you won’t be disappointed. Event starts at 21:00.QB-3, Trg opatice Čike, www.lado.hr. J

THE GLAGOLITIC ALPHABET This permanent exhibition displays church art decorated with the Glagolitic Alphabet, an old slavic alphabet used in the 9th century. These ancient letters can be seen on stone monuments and old documents, such as registry books, medical and marriage records. Take a look into this region’s past at this highly educational exhibition.QB-3, Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96. J zadar.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 28.08 THURSDAY - 29.08 FRIDAY INTERNATIONAL FOLKLORE FESTIVAL OF ZADAR COUNTY During the summer, in the Rector’s palace, there will be a numbers of events. If we can single out one event, then the International Folklore Festival of Zadar County 2014 is it, where you can see cultural and artistic associations performing original or choreographed musical and dance expressions that are characteristic for this area.QD-3, Rector’s palace, Poljana Šime Budinića. J

EXHIBITIONS 05.05 MONDAY - 31.10 FRIDAY MIHAEL ŠTEBIH – SCULPTURE EXHIBITION: GLASS AND STONE A famous writer and artist known for his powerful poetic expression, Štebih’s latest works combine glass with stone and it is the composition of these two contrasting materials that make for very suggestive yet very unique sculptural expression. Make sure to come visit the cool, smooth glass universe of Štebih and enjoy, not only in the beauty, but also in the poetic thoughts and feelings, of each glass sculpture. QD2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr. J

fan Kutzenberger show the restless turbulence Austria was experiencing at this historic time leading up to one of the most significant world changing events of the 20th century.QD-4, Ceremonial Hall, University of Zadar, Ulica Mihovila Pavlinovića bb. J 03.07 THURSDAY - 31.08 SUNDAY EDO MURTIĆ The Edo Murtić exhibition in Zadar represents two creative poles of Croatia’s greatest painter of the 20th century; a reduced retrospective in the City lodge, and his macabrist drawings in the Rector’s palace (Poljana Šime Budinića bb) representing a recently discovered cycle packed with anxiety and foreboding.QD-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. J 03.07 THURSDAY - 31.08 SUNDAY FAIRYTALE LACE OF RUSSIA Among exhibits from this collection of Russia’s most famous lace, from Vologda’s state museum, you will find clothing, decorative covers, and tablecloths. The exhibition “Fairytale Lace of Russia” will surprise visitors with its diversity of presented motifs and they would not leave any such visitor indifferent.QC-2, National museum (Narodni muzej), Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. J

05.05 MONDAY - 31.10 FRIDAY THE LIGHT OF THE GLAGOLITIC ALPHABET The glagolitic alphabet is an old Slavic alphabet dating back to the 9th century. Artists and couple, Željka and Boris Rogić, live and work in Rijeka, where this ancient alphabet is deeply rooted. Their exhibition will display their artwork, glass pieces of different shapes, sizes and colours, impressed with this beautiful ancient script. Don’t miss out on seeing a four-sided pyramid, christmas trees, lamp shades, wall clocks and so much more, all decorated with the glagolitic alphabet.QD-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas.hr. J 20.05 TUESDAY - 31.08 SUNDAY SNAKES – DANGEROUS BEAUTY This exhibition of live snakes is organised by the National Museum in Zadar, in cooperation with company ‘Reptiles Nest’. Situated on Medulićeva 2, Zadar, there will be some of most dangerous exotic, toxic, and non-toxic snakes, as well as an exhibition of children’s work on the same subject which will be held in the atrium of the Rector’s palace from May 22nd until June 15th.QD-3, Natural Department, Medulićeva 2/I, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 59.

Admission 35 - 70kn. J

Gibonni Deep Purple, Photo by Jim Rakete

11.06 WEDNESDAY - 10.07 THURSDAY THE ROUGH CALM BEFORE THE STORM - THE TIME BEFORE THE YEAR 1914 This exhibition was organized to mark the 100th anniversary since the start of WWI. Popularly, the period prior to the start of the war is portrayed to be a period of calmness before the storm. However, Manfred Thumberger and Stefacebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Culture & Events 11.07 FRIDAY - 25.07 FRIDAY FRIENDS OF THE SEA - GREAT CROATIAN PHOTOGRAPHS FROM THE 60’S This exhibition will display 60 big format art photographs from the 60s, with the theme being, ‘Life on the Croatian Adriatic,’ and will show works by Ante and Zvonimir Brkan, Joso Špralja, Tošo Dabac, Nikola Vučemilović, Milan Pavić, Mladen Grčević, Nenad Gattin, Alojz Orel, Đuro Griesbach, Ivo Tolić, Andro Damjanić, Fernando Soprano, Marija Braut, Zlata Laura Mizner, Igor Emili, Viktor Hreljanović, Mladen Tudor...

QA/B/C-4, The Riva, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. J

ELECTRONIC MUSIC Barrakud Festival

03.09 WEDNESDAY - 13.09 SATURDAY ZVONIMIR MIHANOVIĆ Check out Zvonimir Mihanović’s new exhibition, “Humanitarian Character.” An artist from the village of Sitno Donje in Poljica near Split, Croatia, Mihanović is recognized by art critics as a contemporary hyperrealist painter, a genre of painting that resembles high-resolution photographs.

Don’t miss out on seeing these mind-blowing images.QC3, Gradska loža, Narodni trg. J J

City Centre Location

09 - 16.08. Barrakud Festival What a sort after DJ line-up! Sven Vath, Dubfire, Elen Allien, Barks, Carlo Lio, Maurizio Schmitz, Adapter, and that’s just the beginning. Head to the Zrće Beach on the breathtaking island of Pag for beach, pool and boat raves!

18 - 22.08. Sonus Festival More than 50 international acts led by Chris Liebing, Dixon, Jamie Jones and Marco Corola will perform at Zrće for five days and nights of non-stop partying. Join thousands of music fans from around the world as they party to buzzing DJ’s.

Zrće Croatia’s version of Ibiza! Set on the beachfront, there are bars, restaurants, cafes and five mega nightclubs, some of which run 24 hrs and attract the very best world DJs. You can dance the night away or cool off to endless electronic tunes whilst jet skiing, bungee jumping and more during the day... We call this recovery! Brace yourselves for one around the clock party journey!

22 - 28.07. Lost Theory Festival Bringing music and nature into one! A massive emphasis will be on art, visuals and décor with an international team of artists working to produce the ultimate sound and atmosphere. Electronica meets psychadelia at a little place called Deringaj, six kilometers from the bigger, nearby town of Gračac. The long list of performers includes Ajja, Braincell, Freefrom Syndicate, Mark day…

30.06 - 03.07. Hideout Festival Get ready to parteeeeyyy! Why? Over 100 artists, multitudes of pre-parties, pool parties, boat parties, and secret location parties! Wherever you turn - parties! This usual sell out event is set at the intimate surroundings of Zrće Beach where electronic beats pump up the heat.

23 - 25.07. Fresh Island Festival Feel the thrill of hip-hop and R&B with one of the biggest rap superstars of today Rick Ross headlining. Other acts include Method Man, Redman, Crux Soundsystem and DMX, amongst many others. Dig the groove, make the move to Zrće.

26.07 - 02.08. Loveweek Festival Seven days of around the clock parties is what this festival is all about. And the music includes DJs Hardwell, Compact Grey and George Cooper. Zrće clubs Papaya, Aquarius and Calipso will be the venues for this great festival, not to mention the exclusive boat party held on the gorgeous Adriatic.

12 Zadar In Your Pocket

Barrakud Festival

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Culture & Events

25.07 FRIDAY - 26.07 SATURDAY NOVIGRAD JAZZ FESTIVAL If you haven’t been to Novigrad yet, it’s the perfect time to uncover this great city while listening to some of the most famous Croatian jazz and blues musicians. Special guests at this year’s festival include, Charlie Jurkovic Trio, Pozega Big Band and world famous Croatian musician, Tamara Obrovac. Join these musical festivities under the stars for a real treat this summer! QNovigrad.

Jazz Singer Tamara Obrovac

JAZZ & SWING CONCERTS

ROCK & POP CONCERTS

09.07 WEDNESDAY TRIBUTE TO SWING Don’t miss out on this tremendous event as soloists Ivana Kindl and Davor Pekota, well-known members of the Croatian music scene, dazzle you with their voices all night long, along with the Jazz Quartet.QB-3, Forum. J

04.07 FRIDAY VATRA Vatra, which means fire, is a Croatian rock band best known for their hit song, Tremolo, that won them the Porin, a Croatian music award, in 2012. Don’t miss out on seeing this burning hot group.QB-1, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21. J

20.07 SUNDAY JAZZ ORCHESTRA HRT & GUESTS Are you in the mood for jazz? Well put on your dancing shoes as some of World’s finest musical artists (Lasse Lindgren) get together to perform a repertoire of Jazz classics.

Concert starts 21:30.QA-3, Pozdrav suncu. J 26.08 TUESDAY - 13.09 SATURDAY BLACK COFFEE Could you ever have imagined listening to a blend of the traditional Dalmatian a capella singing, klapa and jazz?

This unique musical style was created by the visionary musicians in the band, Black Coffee, established in 1993, in Split, by bassist Renato Švorinić and drummer Jadran Dučić Čićo. Ivan Ivić, the pianists, recently joined the group, five years ago. With a total of 11 albums under their belt and performing in Jazz Festivals in Italy, Austria and Slovenia. Concert starts at 21:00.QB-3, Forum. J 27.08 WEDNESDAY GEORGIE FAME Multi-talented Georgie Fame can do it all! He is an English rhythm and blues, as well as jazz singer and keyboard player.

In addition, he used to be a rock and roll tour musician in the 1960s. Check him out this summer as his talented fingers glide along the keyboard!QB-3, Forum. J facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

05.07 SATURDAY POSTOLAR TRIPPER Have you heard of Postolar Tripper? They’re a hip hopethno-ska-reggae band from Zadar. Awarded in Croatia in 2013 for the best club music album. This summer, come watch them perform at Ritam bar on Ugljan Island. QRitam bar, Ugljan at Island Ugljan.

11.07 FRIDAY PRLJAVO KAZALIŠTE This summer, rock the night away with legendary rock ‘n’ roll band Prljavo Kazalište from Zagreb, Croatia. Formed in 1977, it was on the top of the rock scene in former Yugoslavia and now still is in Croatia.QB-1, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1. J 15.07 TUESDAY DEEP PURPLE & GIBONNI Pioneers of heavy metal and modern hard rock, legendary UK giants Deep Purple are set to blaze the city in a mega rock spectacle. They will be supported on stage by one of Croatia’s finest rock vocalists Gibonni. This outstanding music spectacle will take place at the Jazine venue.QE-3, Obala kralja Tomislava 1(Jazine Parking). Concert starts at 21:30. Tickets 290kn available at the www.eventim.hr. J Summer 2014

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Culture & Events THE MUSEUM OF ANCIENT GLASS

18.07 FRIDAY NATALI DIZDAR Young Croatian pop singer, Dizdar, became famous in 2003 when she was the runner-up in the reality show, Story Supernova Music Talents. She started building her solo career after the show ended and her first single, Ne daj, became a hit on the radio after it was entered in the 2004 Split Festival.QB-1, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1. J

Mihael Štebih

12.08 TUESDAY ZAZ So her songs are primarily in French, but be transformed with an evening of jazz, chanson and upbeat pop, by a young French woman nicknamed Zaz. She is taking the world by storm and her voice range, passion and groove is per excellence. With over five-million YouTube hits, Zaz is music jazz razzmatazz! Concert starts at 21:00.QB-3, Forum. Admission 240 - 300kn. J

SPECIAL EVENTS

The museum is housed in the nineteenth-century Cosmacendi Palace, perched on former town walls overlooking Jazine harbour. The museum contains one of the finest collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a profusion of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archeological sites across Dalmatia – notably Zadar (ancient Iader), Nin (Aenona), Starigrad-Paklenica (Argyruntum ) and Podgrađe (Asseria). Highlights include the delicate, graceful vessels used by Roman-era ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils.

These treasured items of domestic glassware were often taken to the grave by their owners – much of the collection comes from excavations at Relja in Zadar, where the main cemetery of ancient Iader was located.

Also look out for glass cups used by early Christians to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored. The replica Roman glassware museum on sale in the museum shop makes this one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city. As part of the museum there is a souvenir workshop where you can learn more about the almost forgotten craft of blowing glass in a school purposely made for just that.

Antique Glass Museum

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13.06 FRIDAY - 05.09 FRIDAY FEŠTICE Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals, or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to the week’s big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh, simple, fishy food and bevanda - white wine and water, a popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups (klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional fishermen’s reataurants) and wander the streets adding to the general warmth and gaiety. Events start at 21:00.QŠiroka ulica, Kalelarga.

14.06 SATURDAY - 13.09 SATURDAY EVERGREEN EVENINGS Enjoy those Tuesdays summer nights as some of Croatia’s finest musicians perform an array of jazz concerts at the city square. Event starts at 21:00.QC-3, Narodni trg. J 19.06 THURSDAY - 20.06 FRIDAY TANGO FESTIVAL Love Latino and tango? Then get into the swing of this dance bonanza as performance groups and pairs strut their stuff at the 5th edition of this event. Passers by are more than welcome to join in and even learn from the best! Event start at 21:00.QA-3, Arsenal, Narodni trg, Pozdrav suncu, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20, www.tangozadar.hr. J 23.06 MONDAY - 08.09 MONDAY TRADITIONAL ACCAPELLA EVENINGS One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be the tingling sounds of Dalmatian Klapa (traditional accapella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary the range in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor). Klape groups gather to make for an enjoyable monday evening in the Zadar square.QC-3, Široka ulica, Kalelarga. J zadar.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events 24.06 TUESDAY - 03.09 WEDNESDAY ZADAR CLASSIC OPEN AIR Come out to the Zadar Classic Open Air Festival and see young musicians from Zadar. The musical evenings will be accompanied by Ivan Andrijević, on clarinet, Dina e Mel, Ivan Antonio Šangulin, on guitar, Melita Ivković and Ivan Vihar, on guitars, as well as Nela Šarić and Blanka Aždajić Medić, who will open the festival.QD-3, Trg Petra Zoranića. Concert starts at 21:00. J 27.06 FRIDAY - 28.06 SATURDAY RISE UP FESTIVAL Get up and rock with local bands and hip-hop artists, such as Prti Bee Gee, Kiša Metaka and Cha Jah Ton. On Friday June 27th, skaters, rollerbladers and BMX riders will show off their skills behind the City Library. The event lasts two days and the entrance fee is 100kn for both days.QE-2, Old Zadar Puppet Theatre (Jazine).

30.06 MONDAY - 01.08 FRIDAY 20TH ZADAR SUMMER THEATRE FESTIVAL Running between 30 June and 1 August, the 20th Zadar Summer Theatre Festival is dedicated this year to music and dance. The festival opens on 30 June with a performance of Bepo and Marijeta theatre show in Providurova palace at 21:30. Then, from 4 July a summer stage in the Deputy’s Palace hosts the music part of the festival, with a range of local and international jazz and blues performers (Noa - Israeli jazz-blues singer, Black Market - Flamenco

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Zaz

jazz, Brian Auger’s Oblivion Express - blues, Daniele di Bonaventura and Ricardo Luque.) All events starts at 21:30.QTickets available at the box office (Široka ulica 8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar). Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert venues. J

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Culture & Events 07.07 MONDAY - 14.08 THURSDAY THE 54TH MUSICAL EVENINGS IN ST DONATUS If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you.

The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar.QB-3, St Donatus Church, St. Anastasia’s Cathedral, St. Francis’ Church, Forum, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52, www.donat-festival.hr.

Tickets available at the box office (Široka ulica 8, Croatian National Theatre Zadar). Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00. Sundays only at the concert venues. J 18.07 FRIDAY - 31.07 THURSDAY DAYS OF SUN Organised by the association Eko-Zadar, this fair will be promoting healthy eating and traditional products, such as souvenirs made using a potter’s wheel, homemade liqueurs, jams, spices and sweets. Health gurus, make sure you don’t miss out on this spectacular event!QB-4, Riva. J

GALLERIES ARSENAL QA-3, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21, info@ arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar.com. Arsenal is open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web.

CITY LIBRARY QL-4, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23) 30 11 03.

Open 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

The exhibition ‘Croatia from the air’ by Davor Rostuhar can be seen from 12.08 - 28.08., Obala kralja Krešimira (Riva).

CITY LODGE (GRADSKA LOŽA) QD-3, Narodni trg. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admision 20kn. J CITY SENTINEL (GRADSKA STRAŽA) QC-3, Narodni trg. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20kn. J HDLU ZADAR QC-3, Kraljskog dalmatina 2, tel. (+385-23) 30 07 27. Open 10:00 - 12:00 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEVA PALAČA) QD-3, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. Open 10:00 22:00. Admission 35kn. J THE CAPTAIN’S TOWER GALLERY (KAPETANOVA KULA) QD-3, Trg pet bunara bb. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Sun Closed.

facebook.com/zadarinyourpocket 16 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Culture & Events 26.07 SATURDAY - 27.07 SUNDAY KALELARGART A street art festival that includes dance and theatre performances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art, monodramas, street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This is where art is taken to the people; it is held across a range of city locations and at various times from dusk till dawn.QB/C-3, Široka ulica (Kalelarga), Narodni Trg, Forum. Festival starts at 21:00. J

Saljski užanci

National Museum Zadar

26.07 SATURDAY MILLENIUM JUMP When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here for this growing event. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino effect.

It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science.QB/C-4, Obala Petra Krešimira IV, Riva. J 08.08 FRIDAY - 10.08 SUNDAY SALJSKI UŽANCI Three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing, parades in traditional local costume in a welcoming atmosphere in the town of Sali on Dugi Otok. The Saljski užanci are the climax of an entire month of festivities. The local music is very bizzare and strangely haunting - featured instruments include old irons filled with stones, and huge horns poached from some poor beast. Locals are known to get rather excited and leap into the sea in full national costume.QSali, Dugi otok, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94.

09.08 SATURDAY FULL MOON FESTIVAL On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan); clams from Pašman and mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel to Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable event.QB/C-4, Riva. J 23.08 SATURDAY - 29.08 FRIDAY AVVANTURA FILMFORUM FESTIVAL ZADAR A platform for European co-productions and professional filmmakers by promoting Zadar, Dalamtia and Croatia in while as a film and production destination. Tis the mecca for roundtables, seminars, workshops, conferences, film awards and screenings, retrospectives and a whole lot more.QB-3, Forum, tel. (+385) 91 260 74 66, pr@ filmforumzadar.com, www.filmforumzadar.com. J

instagram.com/croatiaiyp 18 Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com Dances from Boka Lado Archives

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Culture & Events Footloose, Photo by Stefano

SPORT EVENTS 17.07 THURSDAY BASKET TOUR On 17July you have the chance to experience a basketball tournament in the spiritual home of basketball in Croatia (we’re talking Zadar, of course). Show starts at 17:00.QC-2, Trg Petra Zoranića. J 19.07 SATURDAY - 16.08 SATURDAY VAK’AN’ZA - SPORT & MUSIC FESTIVAL (WATER POLO AMATEUR CUP OF ‘ANTI-WATER POLO PLAYERS AND NON-SWIMMERS’) A fun for all water polo tournament for men, women and a veteran’s category with the aim of gathering old district teams from the Zadar region. The event will be held across various beaches with an entertainment programme provided throughout various cafes, clubs and bars…QB-4, Riva, Varoš, Maraschino bar, Mango bar and City beaches. J

23.08 SATURDAY JADRAN ROWING DUEL Row, row, row your boat gently down the Jazine! Indeed, see this 8 man rowing regatta with local and international crews battling the conditions for the prized trophy. Starts at 17:00 and its 500 meters in distance.QE-2, Jazine Bay, www.vk-jadran.hr.

24.08 SUNDAY BICIKLIJADA - TAKE A RIDE THROUGH BUKOVICA Take a ride through the Bukovica region, located in Northern Dalmatia. This biking event starts at 11am at the home of Janko Mitrović and journeys through this beautiful historic area between the towns of Benkovac, Obrovac and Knin. The event is free for all who would like to participate. Helmets are mandatory! For reservations call 091 893 1788.

THEATRES CROATIAN NATIONAL THEATRE (HRVATSKO NARODNO KAZALIŠTE) QC-3, Široka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86, hkk-zd@ zd.t-com.hr, www.hnk-zadar.hr.

ZADAR PUPPET THEATRE (KAZALIŠTE LUTAKA ZADAR) QD-3, Sokolska 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 11 22, klz@klz.hr, www.klz.hr.

Noa - Love Medicine - Zadar Summer Theatre

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zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Pulse We asked five locals - who live or work in Zadar - to give us a few tips on how to enrich your stay in this city and make it that bit more interesting.

Ivan & Mario Lalin (twins), Receptionist at Hotel Bastion/Receptionist at Art Hotel Kalelarga.

ZIYP: Your spot for drinking coffee, going out at night?

Ivan & Mario: For coffee: Kampanel, Red Light, Vinyl. For going out: Vinyl, Zlatni Kutić 1&2, Vip, Q bar, ‘zidić’ (little wall) by the Zadar Puppet Theatre.

ZIYP: A place to relax?

Ivan & Mario: Ledana, Garden.

ZIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?

Ivan & Mario: RIVA!!!

ZIYP: Recommendations for shopping in the city?

Ivan & Mario: Unfortunately, no. The direction of Supernova!

ZIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?

Answer: Pizza cut :), just joking - something ispod peke!

Sandra Babac, the owner of OPG Šinjorina Smokva.

ZIYP: Your spot for drinking coffee, going out at night?

Sandra: The restaurant Pet Bunara.

ZIYP: A place to relax?

Sandra: Li.bar at the City Library.

ZIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?

Sandra: Duboka Draga or Ričine in Vrsima.

ZIYP: Recommendation for shopping in the city?

Sandra: Supernova is handy because everything is in one place, but I’m not a shopper. For me it’s a hassle.

ZIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?

Sandra: A Dalmatian snack: ecological jam, “Šinjorina Smokva,” made from fresh figs with Gligora Pag feta cheese.

Anita Raljević Špralja, Health Care Teacher.

ZIYP: Your spot for drinking coffee, going out at night?

Anita: For coffee: Callegro, Kulaf, Đina. For going out at night: Garden, Ledana, Summer Theater Festival, music evenings at St. Donat.

ZIYP: A place to relax?

Anita: I enjoy the sea organ.

ZIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?

Anita: Pinija, beaches on the islands.

ZIYP: Recommendation for shopping in the city?

Anita: Replay, Max & Co. ZIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try? facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Anita: Black risotto, veal and lamb ispod peke, grilled fish, rožata, cakes made from figs and carobs at Pet Bunara restaurant and Vitlov Čokolade. As well, the cakes at Bruschetta are nice.

Iris Mihatov Miočić, Academic Painter and owner of the brand Happy Dot. ZIYP: Your spot for drinking coffee, going out at night?

Iris: Garden, if you want to avoid the late evening crowds in the city. It’s relaxing with good music and tasty cocktails.

ZIYP: A place to relax?

Iris: By the sea, Bamboo bar.

ZIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?

Iris: Puntamika or a little further, Petrčani where there is extremely clear water and plenty of facilities for children.

ZIYP: Recommendations for shopping in the city?

Iris: Avoid major shopping centers. Stroll through the center of the Old City where you can find small shops with charming items, especially galleries with handmade items where every tourist can find a nice reminder of their stay in Zadar (I do not mean the stands with Chinese souvenirs, but original works by artists from Zadar).

ZIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?

Iris: Talking about the Mediterranean kitchen, you can’t miss out on the olive oil and fish. As well, throughout your stay you can surely obtain high-quality local foods, such as Pag cheese and my favorite liqueur from Zadar, Maraschino!

Inda Vučinović, Chemistry Professor ZIYP: Your spot for drinking coffee, going out at night?

Inda: Coffee, usually on the Main Square or somewhere near the sea.

ZIYP: A place to relax?

Inda: Walking along the Riva.

ZIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?

Inda: Every beach on the islands if you can reach them, Punta Skala in Zadar, Pinija Petrčane, Ražanac overlooking the Velebit channel.

ZIYP: A place for shopping?

Inda: I don’t have one.

ZIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?

Inda: Fritule, Kroštule.

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Local Flavour

The inhabitants of Zadar live in a fertile horn of plenty.

Not only do the locals have the obvious benefit of fresh fish on their doorstep, the city is also backed by a broad belt of land named Ravni kotari - “the flat counties”. Here a combination of sun and rain, rich soil and a clean environment provides great conditions for growing tasty fruit and vegetables. In Zagreb’s open-air markets many a stallholder puts forth a sign proudly proclaiming “Produce of Zadar” to attract buyers with an eye for good food.

Changes wrought over the last decades mean that food production today is nothing near what it once was. In places like Vrana, Žegar and Islam Grčki, acres and acres where tomatoes, cabbages and watermelons once grew lie

BENKOVAC EATERY

uncultivated. A tale we heard about Islam Grčki tells how the inhabitants in the 1980s, after spending the summer in the markets of Rijeka and Krk selling their wares, would bring home their cash and throw it on the big weighing scales to see who had brought most home.

However, a trip to Zadar’s market is still a mouth-watering experience. The fish market is a delight, built right into the city ramparts at the spot where the fishing trawlers land with their catch. As well as lush lettuces and crisp chard, you’ll find citrus fruits and kiwis from the islands, fresh and dried figs, home-made olive oil and cut flowers straight from the garden.

Apart from the riches of the fertile plains and seas, Zadar’s gastronomic identity is shaped by the mountains you see to the north. From there comes the tradition of rearing sheep and goats. Both the meat and the milk are the basis of some of the Zadar region’s most interesting specialities.

Let’s get a little bit specific. What should you look out for if you’d like to try the authentic food of the Zadar region?

The coast The obvious place to start. In Zadar’s restaurant’s you can’t miss fish grilled over charcoal or cooked in a tomatoey brudet sauce. Then there’s risottos, of which crni rižot with black squid ink may qualify as the most interesting. And seafood prepared na buzaru with white wine, garlic and parsley. Simply delicious.

Look out for the most inexpensive fish; sardines, anchovies and other small fish, deep fried or preserved in salt or oil and vinegar. And Zadar, which has centuries of close contact with Italy, is no bad place for a simple meal of pizza or pasta.

What do people eat at home? Fried fish or squid on Fridays, definitely. On special occasions, salt cod cooked a million different ways, such as na bijelo - with garlic, parsley, white wine and potatoes. This might be followed by pašticada beef studded with carrots, garlic and smoked bacon and stewed with wine and prunes. On Sundays, meat cooked na lešo in a soup with vegetables, an all-in-one dish that just needs a green salad to round it off. On workdays, pašta fažol - bean stew with pasta, is a popular filler.

Lowlands, highlands and islands In springtime the land from the water’s edge to the foot of the mountains is crawling with folks hunting for asparagus. This wild asparagus, pleasantly bitter in taste, is much prized lightly sautéed with scrambled eggs as a fritaja.

A speciality from this region is vara - chickpeas cooked in

PIZZERIA PAPE This little pizzeria in the centre of Benkovac serves an excellent pie but we like it for a few other reasons.

It’s a painstakingly restored smithy all in stone, cool in summer, cosy in winter. They serve the best draft Karlovačko beer we’ve ever tasted, and there are always great tunes on the stereo. But best of all is the giant mulberry tree in the courtyard – fabulous to look at, and providing great shade to sit in.QŠetalište kneza Branimira 50a, tel. (+385-) 092 229 92 39. Open 13:00 - 24:00. (25 - 40kn). NGBXW

22 Zadar In Your Pocket

Back in the day, 10 of these bread type doughnuts would be tied by rope and hanging in a bakery. It was dipped in coffee, milk, and believe it or not, in red wine too.

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Local Flavour Tourist Board Benkovac Archives

water with kidney beans, a local bean called jari grah and sweetcorn, very simply, served just with olive oil. It’s the perfect remedy when you’ve overdone things, purging your blood of cholesterol and other naughties.

Lest you get the wrong idea, Zadar’s interior is a fiercely carnivorous land.

On the light side, you might get a turkey (tuka) roasted peka style, under an iron lid heaped with embers. Local turkeys are small and athletic, very different from the big white industrially-farmed birds. Roasted like this with potatoes they’re succulent and delicious.

Then there’s lamb and kid goat. It’s odd that goat meat is little eaten in much of Europe since it’s almost indistinguishable from lamb except it’s less greasy (and certainly more healthy). In the highland regions smoked kid goat is an especial delicacy, usually stewed with vegetables in a dish named kaštradina. Weddings, birthdays and Christmas are unimaginable in these parts without a roast lamb or goat.

Both are also prepared lešo style on an everyday basis. Beef and pork don’t figure much on the traditional menu.

Island lamb is particularly prized, notably that from Kornati and Pag where the animals graze on wild herbs laced with salt from the wind. Pag is the centre of Croatia’s cheese industry; a good mature Pag cheese is not dissimilar to Parmesan. At the other end of the cheesy spectrum, a product called skuta is only edible in the first few days of its life at the beginning of the cheese-making process. It’s a light curd cheese, sweetish in flavour, perfect for spreading on bread or for desserts, all the more so as it’s low in fat. You’ll find it on Pag island and also made by families in the hinterland, but rarely elsewhere as it doesn’t keep for long.

You probably won’t find food like this in Zadar itself. To get a broader picture of the cuisine of the region, we highly recommend you take a jaunt inland and keep an eye out for a family-run restaurant or a seosko domaćinstvo - a rural smallholding that serves home-grown food to guests. Or head to Benkovac where there are several culinary festivals each year.

CITY MARKET (PIJACA) In most Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here since the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back to WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of town. Some around the edge of the square are only just being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you’ll find mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs and more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little old ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and cheese – usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The indoor meat market is to one side of the square, and the fish market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls. Proud locals claim it’s the best fish market on the coast. To one side is a section of the market for cheap clothes and bric-a-brac, great if you need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a cheap snorkel. Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter.

QC-2, Pod Bedemom bb.

Photo by Boris Kačan

LOCAL DISHES KAŠTRADINA Perhaps the most iconic traditional food of this region, the dish known in modern Croatia as kaštradina was called castradina Schiavona during Venetian times, the same as the basket-hilted schiavona sword. It is thought that both earned their name from the soldiers from Dalmatia and the Balkans who fought bravely to protect the Venetian lands. Anyway, kaštradina in the Zadar region is usually smoked mutton or goat meat cooked in sauerkraut. You’ll find it in the hinterland and on Pag island in winter, the time when fresh meat is scarce. It’s a warming dish that is great washed down with strong local red wine. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Local Flavour CULINARY EVENTS EXHIBITION OF PAG SHEEP AND CHEESES 5 July - at this exhibition evaluate the quality of the cheeses from the island Pag and meet the sheep responsible for these renowned cheeses.

MARASCHINO LIQUEUR Zadar’s Maraska factory moved a few years back to new technologically-advanced premises but it’s former home, a beautiful lemon building on the seafront, is one of the best-loved things in Zadar, as are its products. The company was founded in 1768 as a distiller of Maraschino liqueur – a sweet, clear spirit made from Maraschino cherries which grow well in this climate. The Maraschino cherry is small, sourish and not too meaty – it’s not so great for eating. But it makes wonderfully aromatic liqueur and is great in cakes and juices. Still available in the same basketwrapped bottle as at the beginning of the 19th century, Maraschino liqueur makes a great gift or souvenir.

Photo by Lidia Boševski

FOODIE FESTS IN BENKOVAC The inland town of Benkovac sits where the Ravni kotari market garden region borders with the Bukovica uplands. The town’s culinary festivals are a great chance to sample authentic local specialities.

25 June - The 2014 Ravni Kotari Fišijada - a festival dedicated to fish stew 4 July - Vinfest Benkovac - a festival of wines of northern and central Dalmatia 5 July - Bukara Benkovac - a festival of the food, crafts and culture of the Bukovica uplands and the Ravni Kotari plain 5 August - “Beeenkovac”: a festival of lamb and kid goat, traditional foods of this region.

PRISNAC Prisnac is the nemesis of anyone trying to stick to a low-cholesterol diet. A voluptuous mix of soft cheese, eggs, cream and a little sugar is enveloped in a bread base to create a golden, gently sweetish cake. It has been prepared in the hinterland region around Benkovac for centuries.

26 July - “Benkovacki prisnac” festival: contestants jostle for the title of the best prisnac cake, plus other local specialities

SALT FISH In times past, the only way of preserving fish was to salt it. Sardines, the most easily accessible fish, were salted by every family and kept in storage. Nowadays the sardine has been usurped by the smaller anchovy, which most people know from other Mediterranean cuisines. It’s a tasty ingredient in starters, pizzas, pastas and sauces.

Cod in Croatia is almost always salted; fresh cod is very little used. Salt cod features in many traditional dishes but it comes from the cold northern waters. The tradition of eating salt cod was imported to Catholic southern Europe centuries ago since it could be stored for meatless Fridays.

If your travels take you to Kali on the island of Dugi Otok, keep an eye out for salt tuna which isn’t made anywhere else in Croatia. Kali is the centre of Croatia’s fishing industry and most tuna is landed here.

SAMPHIRE At the water’s edge, especially where it’s rocky, if you spot a green plant with succulent branching leaves, break off a little and sniff it. If it has a faint herbal tang, chances are it’s rock Benkovac Fair, Photo by Sandra Babac

ŠOKOLIJADA 20 July - Try this unique specialty from Nin and see how it is prepared at Višeslavov trg THE NIN SALT WORKS The Nin Salt Works ( (Solana Nin) is a rarity in today’s world as it is one of the last few sites where salt is produced ‘ala natural’, whilst keeping the local flora and fauna intact. This festival showcases various dioramas, individual plants and animals from the area, different salt crystals and more. Visit August 7- a festival of Nin salt.

THE SNAIL’S TRAIL Snails are considered a delicacy in much of Dalmatia, and the pristine environment of the Zadar hinterland is a perfect place for these groovy gastropods to grow.

Snails in the Benkovac region are cooked over an open fire and served sprinkled with oil, vinegar and salt.

28 June - “The Snail’s Trail” festival of gastronomy and the Croatian snail racing championships.

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Local Flavour samphire (Crithmum maritimum). Known locally at motar, it’s rather little used in cooking these days but is regaining popularity thanks to the wild food movement. The story goes that in the Second World War people had little other than samphire to eat, so they became mighty sick of it. But it’s fantastic cooked and served as a vegetable side dish with a delightful herby taste. It’s even better pickled, and has saved the life of many a sailor through history – with its high vitamin content it was taken on long voyages to prevent scurvy.

WINE The Zadar region has an excellent microclimate for growing wine. The majority of the wine-growing areas are in the Ravni kotari plains behind the city and in the Bukovica uplands a little further north. There’s also smaller-scale production on the region’s islands, notably Pag. Much of the production is still on a family scale, the products reserved for family and friends. However, the delicate shoots of change are visible like small tendrils on a vine: a number of award-winning small winegrowers have been emerging over the last few years. The town of Benkovac was until recently best known in commercial winegrowing terms for Rosé Benkovac. However, the winemaking conglomerate that owns the Benkovac winery has planted large amounts of French vines in the village of Korlat and now offers pricey bottles of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot throughout Croatia under the Korlat brand. Interestingly, a number of small wine growers are starting up production nurturing indigenous grape varieties and high-quality, sustainable production methods. One is Šime Škaulj in Nadin.

He produces the local Maraština variety, a light, fruity wine perfect for summer drinking. He also offers Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and a Cuvée blend. All his wines are certified organic, and his Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 and 2011 are Decanter magazine silver medal winners. It seems French vines are fond of the local soils.

Not far away in Smilčić, Mladen Anić also produces a fine Maraština as well as a clutch of red wines including Crljenak, a heritage grape variety that is a genetic parent of Zinfandel. Closer to Benkovac at the tiny village of Podgrađe near the Roman ruins of Asseria, Božo Bačić is also a certified organic winegrower. His dessert wine, Asseria, has won numerous awards including the Decanter World Wine Awards Silver Medal. Another dessert wine from the Benkovac area is yellow muscat (muškat žuti) from the MasVin plantation at Polača (between Benkovac and Biograd). Muškat žuti is usually grown inland, but the wine has done well here, as its summery straw and acacia nose suggests. Also certified organic, you can pick up this company’s wine (which also includes Crljenak, Merlot and Syrah) in the region’s supermarkets at refreshingly reasonable prices - around 30-35 kn. Look out also for MasVin’s award-winning olive oil.

Moving on to Pag island, Gegić is a native white that the locals grow in quantity. The scant, limestone terrain bathed in sunshine produces a fairly heady brew. A fabulous place to try this and other wines is the Boškinac hotel and winery just outside Stara Novalja. The house wine is gorgeous yet affordable, and though their bottled wines are far from facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Tourist Board Benkovac Archive

cheap (starting at 200kn) they are well worth splashing out on (pun absolutely intended). Boškinac wines are rarely less than 15% alcohol, but this writer spent a memorable night at Boškinac (my wedding, no less) drinking outrageous quantities of the stuff with friends. Come morning every single one of us was fresh as a daisy, a testament to the extraordinary high quality of these wines.

BOŽO BAČIĆ QPodgrađe 29, Benkovac, tel. (+385-) 091 520 87 46, bacic-bozo@net.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

EGI QNadin 114, Benkovac, tel. (+385-) 098 27 28 59, egivina@gmail.com. Open by prior arrangement.

FIGURICA QSmilčić 114, Smilčić, tel. (+385-) 091 206 39 94, vinafigurica@net.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

KAŠTELANAC QPolača 20, Biograd, tel. (+385-) 091 583 45 05, zlatkokastelanacgmail.com. Open by prior arrangement.

MASLINA I VINO QPolača - Tinj bb, Polača, tel. (+385-) 091 526 32 29, info@masvin-polaca.hr, www.masvin-polaca.hr. Open 11:00 - 17:00 and by prior arrangement. ŠKAULJ QNadin 23, Benkovac, tel. (+385-) 092 268 79 62/(+385-) 091 389 14 21, sime.skaulj@zd.t-com.hr, www.vinarijaskaulj.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

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Local Flavour THE FIG - A TREE THAT SPEAKS TO T YOU 09.09 - 16.09. - 7 7th Fig Festival We’re going into the past to appreciate th the present! The city of Zadar and the feel of the town is prevalent prevalen through its ancient walls, ston stone churches, paved streets, jovial people, landscapes, food... Did someone say food? A hidden secret that many ma may not be aware of is the city’s regard for figs. Yes - figs! A fruit tree that people here know as ‘the queen of the Mediterranean’.

Many legends have formed an affiliation liat to the fig. One says h goddess dd Demeter, as a rewardd to the king Fital for receivthat ing her into his house, gave the mortals autumn figs as a gift.

When it comes to symbolism, few fruits have as many associations. The ancient Greeks attributed it with power and strength and would feed figs to athletes who trained

In the past, wine and rakija were made out of figs and during hot summer days its crown made for a pleasant shade.

In its shade, they would rest and eat after a day of hard work and toil. Hence, figs are considered as the former breadwinners of Dalmatia. If a person wishes to improve their concentration, feel free to eat a dried fig or two.

To this very day, Zadar and the whole of Dalmatia is abundant in fig trees, nurtured as a part of life. And in its honour, the Fig Festival, which is held in September at the ‘Pet bunara restaurant’ (Five wells restaurant), Chef Mario Arbanas prepares many specialties made of figs and visitors can sample a variety of dishes prepared in combination with this dazzling fruit. For years Mario has successfully been incorporating figs into both sweet and salty dishes at the Pet bunara restaurant which is one of the reasons why it has gained its enviable reputation.

At the festival visitors can also buy organic jam made from fresh figs - Šinjorina smokva, which is produced by Babac - Damjanić and made from freshly picked figs from their fig plantation.

Throughout the festival, one can learn more about the fig, from its processing to its gastro segment, as well as from its agrarian to its artistic side. By the end of this, you’ll not only be tasting figs but dreaming figs; you’ll never see figs in the same light again!

Visit Fig Festival at restaurant Pet bunara, D-3, Stratico street 1, tel. 22 40 10, www.petbunara.hr

for the Olympics or warriors on the eve of battle. According to the belief of ancient Romans, Romulus and Remus were born under a fig tree.

The fig tree was also present in the life of Dalmatians who praised it for its fruit, which they consumed both fresh and dried. It is a fruit tree that didn’t require much work and yet it always rewarded them with its nutritional value. That is why they gladly served it with rakija (grappa) as a sign of welcome.

26 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Local Flavour

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Restaurants SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

CROATIAN ATRIJ Good value! This restaurant/bar is positioned just a step away from the main Kalelarga Street and cooks up Mediterranean based meals with different types of meat, fish, risottos and pasta dishes.QD-2, Ulica Jurja Barakovića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 64 24. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (40 - 118kn).

PJAGBW

THE FIRST LADY OF THE ADRIATIC The joy of Mediterranean food is its simplicity, and you can’t get much simpler than the humble sardine. A staple diet of poor fishermen’s families for generations, sometimes looked down upon by those who think paying ten times more guarantees ten times more satisfaction, the sardine is beginning to take her rightful place as the queen of the sea.

They say there’s no better place to eat sardines than right on the fishing boat. Able seamen rinse them in seawater, dip them in flour, chuck them into a pan of boiling oil, drain and salt them and peel the juicy white flesh off the bone, throwing the remains to the gulls.

Try this at home - use plenty of good quality, strong, extra virgin olive oil. Buy bags of fresh sardines outside the fish market.

A rather more refined way to eat sardines is grilled in a special wire rack over charcoal (or threaded onto twigs if you’re nimble). Don’t get fussy with them - leave the first side to cook, turn once or twice only, and then coat them in olive oil and salt. Eat with your fingers with hunks of fresh bread, local tomatoes and red wine.

When the fešta is in town, you’ll have the opportunity to try sardines at stands throughout the city. And in a good konoba (traditional fisherman’s restaurant), you can try any number of alternative ways to eat these little bundles of goodness: salted, marinated, or eaten cold as a paté or a salad.

instagram.com/croatiaiyp 28 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Restaurants BISTRO GOURMET KALELARGA Decorated with simple, but classy off-white walls and tables, this bistro offers great seasonal foods, such as asparagus dishes, a great variety of wines and delicious sweets. A warning for all the carnivores- the meat dishes are to-diefor! Try out the veal cutlet or beefsteak with a side of grilled vegetables or some savoury fried potatoes, polished off with a glass of wine made by locals from the Zadar region.

For dessert, don’t miss out on tasting the fantastic chocolate pistachio pie. Stop by and you won’t be disappointed.

QC-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, info@ arthotel-kalelarga.com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com.

Open 07:00 - 23:00. (60 - 160kn). PAGBXW BRUSCHETTA The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade’ and with quality products from the local Zadar region on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta.QC-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 29 15. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 130kn). PJAGBW CASA RICOV The first steakhouse restaurant in Zadar, it’s located in park Vruljica and offers a new menu daily. Tasty succulent meat steaks are freshly prepared, along with delicious tuna, salmon, sea bream and blacksmith fish steaks. This place will leave your mouth watering for more.QK-4, Oko Vrulja 4a, tel. (+385-23) 23 59 29/(+385-) 091 525 52 35. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 100kn). PAGBXW DVA RIBARA A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!!QC-3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, info@ restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 130kn). PABX GRILL CANZONA Are you up for an excellent meal on the grill? Then head to the Varoš district in Zadar where it’s hard to find a free seat come peak summer. Choose from rare to well done as Leo the owner has a copyright to all his genuine grill delicacies.

Meal sizes and prices are proportional.QC-3, Sv. Nediljice 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 140kn). PNB KAŠTEL Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams.

If you want local gastronomy, look no further! Restaurant Kaštel is located at Hotel Bastion, a new member of the luxurious Relais & Châteaux association.QB-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (60 - 190kn). PALGBXW facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Restaurants KORNAT Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto.QB-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 01.

Open 12:00 - 23:30. (75 - 190kn). PJA6GBX MALO MISTO The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music.QC-3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, www. malo-misto.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 170kn).

PAGBXW PET BUNARA This charming restaurant greets its guests with an alluring and romantic atmosphere. It offers delicious contemporary dishes, like ravioli safran and cold white fish with artichokes or classical mediterranean meals, like fresh octopus salad. Each dish is exquisitely arranged on a platter, that is not only appealing to the eye, but tastes great. During this summer season, many dishes are served with figs, from slices of prosciutto, to steak in a fig sauce, to desserts, like queen lady fig cake. You’re in for a real treat! QD-3, Stratico ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, info@petbunara. hr, www.petbunara.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn).

PAGBC

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ROKO This restaurant specializes in roasted lamb on a spit, delicious traditional dishes from the Ravni Kotari region, such as turkey risotto, as well as fresh bread ispod peke, baked under the bell. It doesn’t get any better than this!QI-3, Put Dikla 74, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 00. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (60 - 350kn). PALB

ETHNIC PEARL OF SIAM If spicy or the more exotic flavours are your cup of tea, then boy, does this place deliver? The cuisine has Thai food written all over it with a solid array of course dishes. The ambience is very casual, and the place - bright, neat and tidy with a little terrace by the pool.QG,J-3, Denisa Špike 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 77 13/(+385-) 098 183 51 84, www. pearlofsiam.com.hr. Open 17:00 - 23:00. (40 - 100kn).

PA6GBXCW SHANGHAI HOUSE The décor, while predictable, creates a hospitable atmosphere that is complemented by the authentic cuisine from the land of emperors. We recommend the signature duck dishes which have earned their flavoursome reputation and for all the right reasons. Take out is available if you would like to dabble chopsticks whilst gazing at the sunset.QH-3, Put Dikla 70, tel. (+385-23) 33 23 10/(+385-) 099 308 30 88, shanghai.restoran@gmail.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (35 - 115kn). PAGBXW

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Restaurants FAST FOOD GRICKO There is an indigenous fast food which renders the hamburger utterly irrelevant in Croatia. Ćevapi are little sticks of minced meat and spices, grilled or fried, and for the true carnivore are something like heaven. They’re usually served in a bun called a lepinja, which the vendor thoughtfully dips into hot fat before serving. Mmmmm!

In Voštarnica, a clean and pleasant little place to munch decent ćevapi.QL-4, Franje Tuđmana 54, tel. (+385-23) 30 50 87. 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00.

(20 - 32kn). PNB HAJDUK Unarguably the best burek (meat or cheese filo pastry pie) in town. We highly recommend you try it Croatian style with a refreshing pot of plain yogurt, but if that doesn’t grab you, they serve burgers, sandwiches, toasties and mini pizzas too. Hajduk, by the way, means “brigand” or “bandit”, and is also the name of the Split football team, but don’t mention that here if you like having legs.QC-3, Knezova Š.Bribirskih 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 81. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (10 - 35kn). PNBW

LAMB The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and around Zadar.

SABUNJAR Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb. Take the main road to Split and you’ll see it across the road from hypermarkets Merkur and Getro.QR-3, Jadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55, tomislav.kurta@zd.t-com.hr. Open 09:30 - 23:00.

(27 - 80kn). PALGBXW TAMARIS A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel.

Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular.QO-2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, info@tamaris-zadar.com.hr, www.tamaris-zadar. com.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (75 - 150kn). PAL GBXW

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OBELIX Good warm sandwiches (popular round here, try them!) and the usual fast food stuff. With late opening hours, it’s a good place to pick up a bite if you’re drinking in Borik or on your way home after a night out in town. Located next to Obelix, Terra cafe is inimitable for its summer parties.

QG-2, A.G.Matoša 6, Borik. Open 08:00 - 01:30. (8 60kn). GBXW

ITALIAN PAŠTA & SVAŠTA This quaint bistro is beautifully decorated with a huge painting of the coast, along with flower pots adorning the walls. As the name implies, they offer traditional Italian pasta dishes, such as Fusilli and Fettucini, as well as bruschetta, octopus salad and many more delicious options.QPoljana Šime Budinića 1, tel. (+385-) 099 731 02 32, Open 08:00 - 23:00. (50 - 120kn) JB WA6GX TRATTORIA CANZONA A traditional pizzeria with a very respectable reputation.

The same outfit as the Zagreb restaurant of the same name. Those who know that one will be reassured it’s a good bet.QC-3, Stomorice 10, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81.

Open 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn).

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Restaurants KONOBA RAFAELO On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well.QH-3, Obala kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (50 - 110kn). PALGBXW SKOBLAR Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines. Live music most weekends too.QD-3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 36. Open 08:00 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn). PJABX STOMORICA Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today it’s a beautiful place to eat out:still traditional in style, the menu has been expanded to include most classic seafood dishes.

The New York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its good portions, decent prices and singing locals.

A Zadar favourite for generations.QC-3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59 46. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 70kn).

PNGBX

BREAKFAST CROCCANTE When the tummy’s rumbling and you are after a topnotch breakfast to get your day going, hop on down to Croccante which is known for its fresh croissants and scrumptious toast. Such places for brekky are few and far between apart from the hotels that serve their guests.

QC-3, Široka ulica 14. Open 07:00 - 24:00. (10 - 80kn).

FORUM Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This small bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good for on the go. We recommend the tasty quiche, foccacia bread and yummy bread rolls.QC-3, Madijevaca 2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (3 40kn). N PLANKIT Some of us spent our school days on this beautiful terrace. The rush of the city, coffee breaks, cakes and a wonderful choice of both salty and sweet pancakes.

The perfect choice when wishing to take a break from sightseeing!QC-3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 14. Open 07:00 - 22:00. PNG BXW 32 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Restaurants ZADAR - JADERA A konoba is a small place where fishermen would tell tales amongst a drop of wine after a good day’s catch. You won’t find any fisherman here but the surroundings will give you a pleasant sense of the sea, it’s small and intimate and if you’re after a typical home made cuisine then this is a gem.QC-2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 59, info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (65 - 105kn). PJAGBXW

OUT OF TOWN KONOBA PECE We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The homely interior was hand crafted by the owner himself, who also is your chef. He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge. Book in advance.QPrilaz Drage 2, Vinjerac, tel. (+385-23) 27 50 69/(+385-) 098 33 14 03, anita.greguric@zd.htnet.hr, www.konoba-pece. com. Open 16:00 - 24:00. (75 - 120kn). A6LBX

PIZZA MAMMA MIA Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty.

And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying.QH-3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (28 - 200kn). NGBXW

SEAFOOD FOŠA One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish.QD-3, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+38523) 31 44 21, jadera@jadera.org, www.fosa.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:30. (75 - 235kn). PJAGBXW

ŠIME A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of the sun.QG-2, Matije Gupca 15, Puntamika (Borik), tel. (+385-23 ) 33 48 48, www.restaurant-sime.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). P6LNGBXW

NIKO Popularly called ‘kod Erika’ by locals, this restaurant is located on the seaside by Marina Borik and offers a superb choice of fresh fish. Savour some grilled sea bass and squid or try out a tuna carpaccio salad. Rumoured to have the best shrimp pasta in town, this is a gastronomic heaven for fish lovers.QG-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+38523) 33 78 88, hotel.niko@hotel-niko.hr, www.hotelniko.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 170kn). PAL GXW

TRI BUNARA This golden oldie is set in the heart of town and maintains a rustic appeal with the classic red and white chequered tablecloths. Succulent juicy thin based pizzas with plenty of Mediterranean influenced ingredients. Although busy, it has its intimate appeal. Perfectly priced!QB-3, Trg tri bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (35 70kn). PJ6NGBXW

TAVERNA DIKLO A wonderful little tavern set on the waterfront that offers good-quality food with a variety of choice and ultra large portions! A little tip - the seafood platters are highly praised. The terrace seats are snapped up quickly so it’s best to book in advance for prime positioning.QF-3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 35. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 350kn). PALGBC

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Coffee & Cakes atmosphere. Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a conversation.QD-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4.

Open 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PBXW LOVRE The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Relax by day and experience the fun in Lovre by night with regular live gigs and DJ performances.QC-3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. Open 07:00 - 01:00. P6NGBXW MAREX An unmissable stop on the cafe scene in summertime, with great ice cream made by the Marex company.QJ-4, Ul. kneza Trpimira bb. Open 07:00 - 01:00.

As in all of Croatia, cafe culture rules in Zadar. That means the coffee is usually good. The usual espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere.

A latte here is called a “bila kava” (white coffee), and you can increasingly find instant coffee too.

BRANIMIR A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of conversation and a prime viewing position of the handsome footbridge and the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk.QD-1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. (+385-23) 30 56 84. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PGBXW CALLEGRO The locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city.

We shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that provide strong competition to such remarks, but what Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view at the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick back and watch other people strolling through the famous street Kalelarga!QB-3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro.com.

Open 07:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 01:30. PNBXW FORUM A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm.QB-3, Široka ulica bb. Open 07:30 - 01:00.

PNGBXW GUAM Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee and watching the sun go down.QF-3, Krešimirova obala 46. Open 08:00 - 01:00.

PNBXW ILLY CONCEPT BAR New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, offers some really colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out 34 Zadar In Your Pocket

NOVI CAFFE On Five Wells Square, right by one of the “Pillars of Shame”.

Intellectuals are now rumoured to meet here and flog themselves with metaphorical cats-o-nine-tails. Mea culpa!!QD-3, Ilije Smiljanića 4, tel. (+385-23) 31 15 14.

Open 07:00 - 23:00. PGBXW

SWEET TREATS ART KALELARGA What better way to put the icing on the cake of your stay than by gobbling down some amazing cake combinations. From authentic zadar maraška to fig and cheesecakes that spell art deco meets sweeeettt! Ohh, and if you are out and about this time of year, make sure you try the amazing asparagus cake.QC-3, Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, info@arthotelkalelarga.com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PAGBXW DANICA A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of good homemade cakes from the local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre.QC-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16.

Open 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB DONAT Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream in town. The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure.QB-3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29, info@donatice.hr, www.donatice.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PNGBW EVA IL GELATO ORIGINALE The temperature suddenly drops with organic icecream made according to traditional recipes and covered with icycles to maintain quality of the highest order. On top of that, prices are quoted by cornets and not scoops. Beat the heat wave and choose your flave!QC-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 8, tel. (+385-23) 25 19 09. Open 10:00 - 24:00. PAGBXW zadar.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on benches and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo) are habits that still linger. Zadar’s nightlife is neither sceney nor divided into old and young, so in most places you’ll find an unpretentious mix of people.

While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go down. Zadar’s sunsets are supposed to be the best in the world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed.

Those of you wanting a little more will nevertheless not be disappointed. Young Croatians are a pretty cosmopolitan lot, and you would be surprised how urban the culture is.

One thing you must try in Zadar is a drink made out of local Maraschino cherries - a particularly aromatic variety, a little bitter, therefore not used for eating, but great when sugared up to the max.

HANGIN’ OUT ARSENAL Originally used as a naval service center in the 18th century, the arsenal now stockpiles history, culture, art, and entertainment. The gargantuan structure offers food, drink, music, interactive art, and reflects Zadar’s 3000 year history, life today, and a peek into the future. You can visit one of the many exhibitions - the Gallery hosts multiple shows throughout the year.QB-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21/(+385-) 099 210 33 09, info@arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar.com. Open for organized concerts and special events, so it’s best to keep track via the web. PTJAEBKW

Soil & Pimp

BORGO A small bar where locals tend to congregate and get merry.

QC-3, Varoška 2. Open 07:00 - 01:00. PBX BRAZIL Just by the Riva, a nice leafy terrace and an inside bar which is actually within the city bastions. Comfortable, relaxed, and the only place with satellite radio, meaning it registers above average on the music taste-o-meterQD-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-) 091 208 55 61.

Open 08:00 - 01:00. NGBXW CAFE GALLERY GINA Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street.QC-3, Varoška 2. Open 07:00 01:00. P6GBXW DOLCE VITA Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce vita, i.e. the trendy crowd.QC-4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, antoniomontana30455@gmail.com. Open 09:00 14:00, 18:00 - 01:30. PJ6NBXW

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HITCH BAR Wanna dance till you drop, spruce on in to this popular night club with somewhat of a modern and minimalistic interior. Keep an eye on this summer’s entertainment guide with theme nights, international DJs, and concerts

by Croatian and international artists.QKolovare bb, robert@hitch-bar.com, www.hitch-bar.com. Open 08:00 - 06:00. PA6BW KULT Has a gorgeous terrace in a little park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals.QC-3, Stomorica 6a.

Open 07:30 - 02:00. PJ6BXW Summer 2014

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Nightlife LLOYD One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd.

After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by St Anastasia’s cathedral.QB-3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+38523) 25 08 51. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PNGBXW

at Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view of the attractive little church, St Michael’s, opposite.QC3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 47. Open 07:00 01:30. P6NBXW

LOTUS A relaxed, alternative vibe, unless you consider young people straining desperately to be different a negation of the term “relaxed”. The music confidently straddles rock and punk genres.QC-4, Stomorica 7. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:30. Closed Sun. P6NBXW

VINYL BAR With its cool vibe, great music and pleasant ambience, this bar is an excellent place to sit and relax whilst polishing off a beer or sipping on coffee throughout the day. And when day turns to night, the bar transforms into a club where the tempo rises till the late hours.QObala Kneza Trpimira 4, tel. (+385-) 099 670 04 90. Open 07:00 - 01:30.

MARASCHINO Venture out in the morning or afternoon and it’s a café, head on down late evening and it transforms into a night club. With live bands and various DJs performing, you have every excuse to sip cocktails and party.QE-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 93, maraschinobar@ gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 06:00. PAGBW Q BAR A good old thirst needs a good old beverage, so why not visit one of the city’s pubs located at the very end of the Zadar peninsula. No two nights are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly timetable. Spacious with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of the port and marina!QB-2, Liburnska obala 6. Open 07:00 - 06:00.

PNGBXW TONI On Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches

COCKTAIL BARS BEACH & COCKTAIL BAR BAMBOO This bar looks like a gigantic deck on the beach and is a great spot to sit back, relax and take in the wonderful sights of the sea, local island and people. Open all day long, you can enjoy a drink anytime, from dawn to dusk. Start your day off with some quiet meditation as you sip on your morning coffee. In the afternoon, grab a drink with some friends and stretch out on a lounge chair under one of the numerous canopies made of palm branches. While in the evening, enjoy watching the magnificent sunset, before dressing up and coming out for a cocktail at night.QG-5, Obala kneza Domagoja bb. Open 07:00 - 01:30. N MANGO DAY & NIGHT CLUB This brightly-coloured bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It’s a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown.QF-3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo, tel. (+385-) 091 734 07 69, mangozadar@ gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 04:00. NBXW 36 Zadar In Your Pocket

YACHTING BAR A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail into the cordiallly named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling peckish. It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts. and all the other snacks one would desire for immediate hunger satisfaction.QG-5, Obala Kneza Domagoja 1, Borik, tel. (+385-) 095 539 53 91. Open 07:00 - 05:00.

PNBW ZODIAK A tiny bar with a few seats in an equally tiny street, and a not-so-tiny crowd that gathers for the music that veers eclectically between grunge and drum’n’bass.QD-4, Šimuna Ljubavca 2. Open 08:00 - 01:30, Fri, Sat 08:00 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:30. PNBXW

LOUNGE BARS LEDANA LOUNGE BAR Seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle, then head to the Queen Jelena Park and visit Ledana, that is ‘icy’ in our lingo. It is totally new and out of this world, it has a lumious icy blue mosaic like interior which is ideal for escaping the hot sun. QD/E-3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke, tel. (+385-) 095 396 39 96, (+385-) 098 63 07 60, info@ledana.hr, www.ledana.hr. Open 08:00 - 04:00.

PNGBXW THE GARDEN Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks and downtempo electronica.QB-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, info@ thegardenzadar.com, www.watchthegardengrow.eu.

Open 10:30 - 01:30. JBW

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Sightseeing ESSENTIAL ZADAR CITY FORUM (FORUM) The Roman Forum - the largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood. The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.QB-3.

CITY GATES (GRADSKA VRATA) The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history. Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them. The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled traffic, and two smaller side arches for pedestrians. It’s decorated with motifs such as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat. Between the ferryport and market is the Sea Gate (also known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and

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leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area.QD-2.

CITY LODGE (GRADSKA LOŽA) Built by the same architet as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library. With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”.QD-3, Narodni trg. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20kn. J CITY SENTINEL (GRADSKA STRAŽA) Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects.QC-3, Narodni trg. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 20kn.

CITY WALLS (GRADSKI BEDEMI) Once the largest city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells Square – you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities.On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj – a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.QC/D- 2.

ST DONATUS’ CHURCH (CRKVA SV. DONATA) Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the pre-Romanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as ‘The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’.QB-3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. Open 09:00 21:00. July, August 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 20kn. J Summer 2014

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Sightseeing Sightseeing

CHURCHES When you look into it, you could be forgiven for thinking that all the people of Zadar have done through the centuries is build churches. Looking at this gives you a good idea of exactly how long the city has been standing, and how rich that life has been. Here are the main highlights. Note: churches are normally only open for Mass - each has its own timetable. All churches expect you to cover up: short shorts and tiny tops will not only raise eyebrows, but you may be handed a cover-up or refused admittance.

CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF HEALTH (CRKVA GOSPE OD “KAŠTELA” (ZDRAVJA)) In the green park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ).QA-3, Braće Bilišić 1.

CHURCH OF ST MARY “DE PUSTERLA” STOMORICA (CRKVA SV. MARIJE “DE PUSTERLA” STOMORICA) The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s. The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.QC-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12.

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ST ANDREW’S AND ST PETER THE ELDER’S (CRKVA SV. PETRA STAROG I SV. ANDRIJE) On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora and Ulica Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the simple frontage of St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th century facade, but other parts date back to the 5th and 6th centuries. Through the apse you enter the very unusual church of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.QC-2, Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića 10.

ST CHRYSOGONUS’ CHURCH (CRKVA SV. KRŠEVANA) A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar.QC-2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2.

ST DIMITRI’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. DIMITRIJA) St Dimitri’s is an unusual example of Neo-Classical architecture in Dalmatia. It was completed in 1906 by Viennese architect Karl Susan, and has an unusual central cupola. It was part of an educational complex, and two of the buildings now house the Historical Archives, the University’s Faculty of Humanities and the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences.QD-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing ST DOMINIC’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. DOMINIKA) This former church building has had an interesting past.

Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in Croatia there (1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805, he abolished the Dominican order, turned the church into a barracks, and shut down the university. The church has recently been renovated, and part of the monastery complex is now home to Zadar’s popular and internationally acclaimed Puppet Theatre.QD-3, Špire Brusine 13.

ST ELIAS’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. ILIJE) The city’s Orthodox church was originally used by Greek merchants and sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian community. It stands just behind the Forum, and since this area is undergoing extensive renovation, you can’t access the church at the moment. It was built in the late Baroque style at the end of the 18th century, and contains a wonderful collection of icons spanning the 16th to 18th centuries.QB-3.

ST FRANCIS’S CHURCH & FRANCISCAN MONASTERY (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN I CRKVA SV. FRANJE ASIŠKOG) Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks. The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of attacks on the city and handed it to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries was discovered.

Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.QA/B-3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

Tourist Board Zadar Archives

National Museum Zadar Archives Photo by Damir Alter

RESEARCH LIBARY AND HISTORICAL ARCHIVE Zadar’s Research Library is the second largest Croatian institution of this kind after the National University Library in Zagreb. It was founded in 1855 by local professor and benefactor Petar Aleksandar Paravija, and was originally in the Loggia on Narodni trg, moving into the present building, an attractive yellow building which used to be a barracks. It’s the bedrock upon which not only Zadar’s rich cultural and educational life rests, but also that of Croatia. Zadar was for a long time the administrative centre of Dalmatia, under many colonial powers. The documentation kept here, and in the Historical Archive (near St Dimitri’s church) is the seed of knowledge of much of Croatia’s legal and political past. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

ST LAURENCE’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. LOVRE) The remains of this pre-Romanesque church (11th century) are the oldest part of Narodni trg, and are reached through the premises of Cafe Lovro on the square. It’s small and simple, but architecturally rich.QC-3, Široka ulica 2.

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Sightseeing ST MARY’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. MARIJE) Founded in 1066 by a Zadar noblewoman, n, and belonging to a closed order of Beneedictine nuns, the church was fundamentally ally rebuilt during the 16th century in the Renaisenaissance spirit, but retains its Dalmatian aspect pect with i t i with ith remits rounded gables. It has a fine Baroque interior nants of early Romanesque frescoes. The adjoining convent buildings contain the remarkable Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ), and a beautiful cloistered garden only visible from the museum’s interior. As well as being the guardians of the city’s treasures, the nuns are extremely skilled at fine mending and do it for free. Bless!QC-3, Trg opatice Čike 1.

ST MICHAEL’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. MIHOVILA) On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and Ulica Mihe Klaica is the simple and charming Gothic frontage of St Michael’s, once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief on the portal shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and added to in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint Michael on the high altar.QD-3, Špire Brusine 4.

ASSERIA (BENKOVAC) At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. You can also see remains from the days when this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin (Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.

ST NEDILJICA’S NED CHURCH (CRKVA SV. NEDILJ NEDILJICA) An early Croatian church, a reconstruction of its remains is displayed in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar).QC-3 C-3.

ST NICHOLAS’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. NIKOLE) The remains, built in a combination of Gothic and late Baroque styles and dating back as far as the 13th century, are close to St Francis’. Remnants of a Romanesque bell tower lie in the courtyard. There are current attempts to save it from the ravages of history – Napoleon’s armies converted it into a barracks, damaging the interior, while war damaged the exterior.QA/B - 3.

ST SIMEON’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV. ŠIMUNA) East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ).QD-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05.

ST THOMAS’S CHURCH (CRKVA SV.TOME) The remains of this Early Christian church (late 5th century) on the corner of St Chrysongonus’ Square and Ulica Šimuna Kožičića Benje, were knocked down in 1822 to make way for a school, rediscovered in 1969, and the frontage was restored, now forming the facade of a shop. Some of the stone furniture of the interior is now in the Archeological Museum.QC-2/3.

LANDMARKS FIVE WELLS SQUARE (TRG 5 BUNARA) During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.QD-3, Trg 5 bunara.

GREETING TO THE SUN Witness this unique chance to see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.QA-3.

STATUE OF PETAR ZORANIĆ On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with rather muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of the first novel

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Sightseeing

Tourist Board Zadar Archives

in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of a family of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at that time – a time when the city was under siege by the Turks, but art and culture prospered within.

STATUE OF ŠPIRO BRUSINA The handsome fellow staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He was also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official. Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the Croatian chapter of the freemasons. What secrets does that shell contain?QD-4.

THE CAPTAIN’S TOWER (KAPETANOVA KULA) A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space.QD-3, Trg pet bunara.

THE CITY CEMETERY, HERITAGE MONUMENT (GRADSKO GROBLJE) Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not all that morbid.QR-3.

THE SEA ORGAN (MORSKE ORGULJE) Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. It’s an art installation designed to let people enjoy the point where urban space meets the sea on Zadar’s new pier for facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

cruisers on the end of the Old Town peninsula. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and – depending on the size and velocity of the wave – chords are played. As you sit and

SILVER CASKET OF ST SIMEON In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and the city’s history.

Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they would find something interesting in his documents. They found an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily and his remains will be shown to the public on his patron day, October the 8th. Mass: 08:00, Sun 08:30 and 10:00.QD-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. Open May - October 17:00 - 19:00.

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Sightseeing listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air. This is proving to be an extremely popular spot for culture and leisure, bringing new life to a new part of the city. The project’s architect was Mr Nikola Bašić, and a team of experts from Zagreb and the island of Murter engineered the organ itself.QA-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

MUSEUMS ARCHEOLOGICAL MUSEUM (ARHEOLOŠKI MUZEJ) On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes sense to

ZADAR’S PROTECTION SQUAD Zadar has four patron saints. If that seems a bit excessive, read the History section, you’ll soon understand why. Here’s the gang: St Simeon – Sveti Šimun Saint Simeon (or Simon) is said to have been present at the birth of Jesus, which is probably why women wishing to bear a son appeal to him. This also explains why he is the most popular patron saint: around here, the birth of a son occasions much quaffing of rakija and Tarzan-like chest-beating. The saint’s body is kept in an amazing casket which is opened every year on October 8 (see page 41).

St Chrysogonus – Sveti Krševan St Chrysogonus (or Grisogono in Italian) is the main patron saint of the city: the City of Zadar Day celebrations are always held on St Chrysogonus’ day (November 24).

You can see him riding a horse on Zadar’s coat of arms and flag. He was persecuted and beheaded by Roman Emperor Diocletian (who built the palace at Split).

St Anastasia – Sveta Stošija St Anastasia was also martyred under Diocletian, and is also said to have been present at the birth of Christ. She cared for persecuted Christians, and unfortunately met the same fate herself – she was tortured and beheaded.

Her remains now lie in a marble reliquary in the Cathedral, which is dedicated to her.

St Zoilo – (no translation available) The least well-known of Zadar’s keepers, St Zoilo rescued St Chrysogonus’ body when it was washed up on the shore, and buried it at his home in Venice. Although Chrysogonus had been beheaded, his body was miraculously whole. For this and other kind acts, St Zoilo’s relics were brought to Zadar after his death.

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go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in farflung parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages. From the second half of June, the Archeological Museum in Zadar will display ancient Rome in a new contemporary way by using thematic sections to describe life in ancient Zadar (Lader) and areas of the southern part of Liburni (Northern Dalmatia). As well, statues of Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius and one of Tiberius’s successors, along with numerous inscriptions, sculptures and portraits will all be included at this exhibition.

QC-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 13, mbrkic@ amzd.hr, www.amzd.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 30 kn. J NATIONAL MUSEUM (NARODNI MUZEJ ZADAR) The National Museum in Zadar provides a unique cultural insight to visiting tourists, be through Natural History, Ethnography, or the Art Gallery with its impressive collections and exhibitions. The City Lodge hosts a number of current exhibitions also, while the 13th century Rector’s palace is home to the ‘Cages’ exhibit as well as a maritime collection. In addition to all of this, the National Museum in Zadar has two dislocated objects: the regional Ethnographic collection Veli Iž and the regional Cultural-historical collection Mali Iž. Tickets must be purchased separately for each aspect of the museum.QC-2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 20kn. J THE MUSEUM OF ANCIENT GLASS (MUZEJ ANTIČKOG STAKLA) The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour.

The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored.

Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city.QD-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 30kn. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

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Sightseeing PALACES DEPUTY’S PALACE PAL (PROVIDUROVA PALAČA) PA Comple Completed in 1607 as the residence of the Venetian Deputy it now houses the to Zadar, Za Matic Matica Hrvatska (the Central Croa Croatian Cultural and Publishin lishing Society). The building adjo adjoining it at Medulićeva 2 hou houses the Scientific Departmen ment of the National Musem.

QD-3, Medulićeva 2. Open QD 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 10:0 20kn. J NASSIS AND PATRIZIO PALACES (PALAČE NASSIS I PETRIZIO) Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant bombardment by enemies.QD/C -3.

PALACE GRISOGONO - VOVO (PALAČA GRISOGONO - VOVO) Another palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the 16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is well worth a look.QD-3.

RECTOR’S PALACE (KNEŽEVA PALAČA) Together with the Deputy’s Palace it forms the Regency complex. The oldest Romanesque elements date back to the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example of Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction after damage in the 1990s war.QD-3, Poljana Šime Budinića.

PARKS QUEEN JELENA MADIJEVKA PARK (PERIVOJ KRALJICE JELENE-MADIJEVKA) Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest – that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.QD/E-3.

VLADIMIR NAZOR PARK (PERIVOJ VLADIMIRA NAZORA) Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It 44 Zadar In Your Pocket

was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).

He left something beautiful to the city - a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was completed, and the park was named after him – against his wishes.QE-3.

RELIGIOUS COLLECTION CHURCH COLLECTIONS FROM THE CHURCH OF ST ELIJAH THE PROPHET A collection of church art treasure dating between the 15h and 19th century containing 30 icons, liturgical items, crucifixes, holy books, manuscripts, church clothing and an interesting collection of antimins printed on a canvas with an etching technique.QB-3, Trg S. Jankovića 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 10 14.

Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Admission 10kn.

SILVER AND GOLD OF THE CITY OF ZADAR (ZLATO I SREBRO ZADRA) If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus.

If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia.

The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread.

The collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute nonbeliever awestruck. QB-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 96/(+385-23) 25 48 20. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 20kn.

THE MONASTERY MUSEUM OF ST. MIHOVIL’S, FRANCISCANS OF THE THIRD ORDER (MUZEJ SAMOSTANA SV. MIHOVILA, FRANJEVACA TREĆOREDACA) There is a museum at the monastery of St. Mihovil, Franciscans of the Third order (Muzej samostana sv. Mihovila, franjevaca trećoredaca). The name itself is a mouthful, but it’s another location which hoards and cares for a spectacular religious collection. Among some of its most noteworthy pieces is a 16th century depiction of the Last Supper as well as several ornate statues.QD-3, Mihe Klaića 11, tel. (+385-23) 35 00 20. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00 and by prior arrangement.

THE SACRED ART COLLECTION OF ST FRANCIS’ MONASTERY (RIZNICA SAMOSTANA SV. FRANE) The monastery has a rich collection of religious art, highlights of which include a 12th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a 15th century polyptych from the island of Ugljan which is a fine example of Gothic painting in Croatia. There are also ancient incunabula, documents, liturgical vessels and more.QA/B-3, Trg sv. Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 5 - 15kn. zadar.inyourpocket.com

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Zadar Surroundings

The Ceramics of the Island of Iž Meet a man who has been working as a potter for 26 years and presents the making of traditional ceramics with glass. Petrović mastered his craft from his fellow islanders and is now the island’s last remaining potter, a tradition that has been upheld since 1530. The most characteristic feature of Iž pottery is the mixing of clay and calcium with feet on leather and baking it on an open fire. Petrović’s collection of works vary as he uses a mixture of ancient and new technology to produce an amazing assortment of modern ceramics.

Photo by Tomislav Rastić

SPENDING A FEW DAYS AROUND ZADAR If you consider yourself a true devotee to quality food, autochthonic specialties and some added history in between, then we have the ‘do all, know all’ information about the Zadar region which will certainly enrich your gastronomic and travel experience. There are a couple of culinary hot spots you simply have to experience either for their goodish foodish offers or for the historical tales that add to the entire experience. For a sense of local fiesta outdoor market style, head to the geographical region known as Ravni kotari where a fair with a century-old tradition takes place on the10th of each month, in the town of Benkovac. This is the closest you’ll get to seeing locals from inland Dalmatia at their prime. Sure, there is livestock, handcrafted tools and pottery for sale, but the food offer adds to that indescribable experience. Lamb on the spit is consumed like water in the desert. Local lamb and goat meat is per excellence, take the opportunity to try ‘lamb tripe with peas’ or rooster under the ‘peka’, an iron bell hovered with burning wood and coal. What surely impresses is the homemade bread baked in the ‘peka’, wood oven style; and if you happen to get a snail or two that were baked alongside the bread, you’ve got yourself a winning combination. When going to Ravni kotari, a visit to local winemakers is a definite must.

Posedarje is a place for lovers of prosciutto. The process of salting and drying meat appeared in Dalmatia under Italian influence as brought by their princes and governors.

Nowadays, authentic prosciutto from Posedarje is quite the specific product and it seems that the secret is in the cli46 Zadar In Your Pocket

mate. Since this area is a combination of wind and sea, the land and air thrives with salt. The livestock here is therefore primed for quality meat! Once in Posedarje you can see the 15th century Church of the Holy Spirit. There is a stone belfry above the entrance door and a bell is kept inside the church which is only set during mass celebrations. There are no decorations or inscriptions on the bell itself. On the feast day of Pentecost, Posedarje also celebrates its Municipality Day. Pentecost is traditionally celebrated with a boat procession along a nearby island where mass is celebrated next to the Early Romanic Church of the Holy Spirit. This happens to be a true gathering as a large number of pilgrims from all surrounding areas come to celebrate.

Then there is the coastal town of Nin for a taste of šokol which is obtained from pork neck meat. It is treated much like prosciutto; for three to seven days it lays in pure sea salt and is then marinated in red wine and coated with several kinds of spices. The unique aromatic flavours and ingredients of herbs from the Velebit Mountain and the sea air itself affect the drying process and the quality of Nin’s šokol.

The Island of Pag is the destination for cheese lovers.

From a place called Lun in the north of the island to Povljana in the south, the traditional production of cheese is characteristic of the whole island. The key factor to the success in Pag’s cheese is in its raw content - pure sheep milk native to the island. The other key factor lay in the aging process. Young cheese matures for about five months, while old cheese matures for about a year or more. In order to produce one kilogram of cheese, six litres of sheep milk is used. Years of perfecting the art of cheese making saw Pag cheese Gligora enter the top 10 cheeses of the world in 2010, and has since received the award for ‘The zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings Best Central and Eastern European Cheese’. For those who want a real getaway there is the peaceful and quiet island of Premuda. It is adjoined to the tiny islet of Školj which locals have nicknamed Lutrošnjak. For generations they have kept sheep on the islet and built little houses called ‘blago’, which were built in the so-called suhozid (dry wall) technique; stone joined in series without any binding material, and some of which still remain. Sheep were kept on the island during the year and women would make cheese in these little houses, staying there for several days.

If you decide to go to the island of Ugljan, make sure to visit the Inventory Collection of the Monastery of St. Paul the Hermit. The monastery complex was built on the island Galevac (Školjić), situated opposite the village of Preko, on the island of Ugljan. Legend has it that the monastery was founded by the followers of St. Paul in the 14th century, whilst the construction of the monastery took place during the 15th century. The inventory collection of the monastery consists of more than 56 items.

Much can still be appreciated in Zadar with the culmination of natural resources and applied ancient techniques still so highly valued by its citizens today. It is clear that some things truly can stand the test of time!

ISLANDS Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

DUGI OTOK Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attrac-

Tourist Board Nin Archives

tive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast.

If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun.

There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island.

Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones.

A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay - the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim there. Legends abound about hidden

Tourist Board Dugi Otok Archives

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Zadar Surroundings treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

DUGI OTOK TOURIST BOARD QObala Petra Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, tz-sali@zd.t-com.hr, www.dugiotok.hr. Open 08:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

TELAŠĆICA NATURE PARK QUlica Danijela Grbin bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96/(+385-23) 37 73 93, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www. telascica.hr. Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00 inside park premises. Entrance ticket cost 200 - 1400kn depending on the size of the boat.

IŽ

Starigrad Tourist Board Archives

NOVIGRAD Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot. Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor. Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there. During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice‘s defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during 1646-47. When the Venetians retook the town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is another spectacular view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails. The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town. Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle.

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This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline.

The streets are too narrow for cars, but luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has lovely beaches. The islanders live from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you’re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

ZADAR TOURIST BOARD OFFICE QVeli Iž, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

PAŠMAN You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly lowlying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman zadar.inyourpocket.com

Zadar Surroundings consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an eco-cottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

PAŠMAN TOURIST BOARD QPašman, tel. (+385-23) 26 01 55, info@pasman.hr, www.pasman.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 18:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 11:00.

PAG Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean.

But that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

The sea is very calm here and the water has an exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high mineral content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the Photo by Lidia Boševski

island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity.

These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’ meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued - it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance.

The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making.

Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Mirila (Starigrad Tourist Board Archives)

BENKOVAC There are two castles worth exploring in the town of Benkovac, which is 28 km south of Obrovac on routes 502 and 27. There is a Benkovac exit off the Zagreb Split highway. Benkovac is a sizable town with several restaurants and taverns. The Croatian family, Benković, built Benkovac Castle, which has been nicely restored.

It‘s on a low hill on the east side of town. Benkovac has undergone occupation by a succession of armies and governments. The Venetians took over the town in the 15th century. Then the Turks captured Benkovac in 1527.

They held it until 1683. Next, the Morlacs, a mountain tribe, took over. It became a rural county district under the French in 1811 and the Austrians in 1847. The Serbs occupied this town as well for a time during the 1991 - 1995 “Great Patriotic War”. The other castle in Benkovac is Kličevac, a well-preserved ruin. Even the roof of its main tower is intact, a rarity for castle ruins. There is an excellent view of Kličevac to the east (right) from a bridge at kilometer marker 276 on the north bound side of the Zagreb - Split highway. That view will entice you, but it is not possible to reach the site from there.

You need to drive about 2 kilometers west from Benkovac on route 56. You will see a one lane, macadam road going up to the left and across railroad tracks. The road leads to a private homestead on the edge of a flat, cleared, gravel area. When the road curves sharply to the right you should turn left and cross the cleared area towards some pine forest. A gravel track runs along the south end of and then into the woods. At a dip in the track take the right fork. Follow this track (ignore others) and after about 100 meters you will head down and see the castle through the trees. Perched on the edge of a stony ravine, it is an impressive sight! Be sure to take a peek through the tower door to get a glimpse of the intact roof. Feudal lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at the end of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica River. An extension was constructed in the 15th century. Kličevac‘s inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from capturing it in the early 16th century.

Several senior Turkish government officials occupied the castle over the next 150 years.

BENKOVAC TOURIST BOARD Ante Starčevića 2b, Benkovac, tel. (+385-23) 68 18 34, www.tz-benkovac.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00.

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Zadar Surroundings is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products.

Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive - expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar gallery. But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry.

In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little cottages, The town’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice. The town has a few other interesting churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good restaurants.

In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens is the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is the island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have opened to create Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly popular. Because of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where you can escape the crowds.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE QVela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, tzg-paga1@ zd.t-com.hr, www.tzgpag.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Tourist Board Zadar Archives

SILBA, OLIB & PREMUDA These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar.

Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar.

The island has an unusual monument - a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love. Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script - the alphabet in which Croatian was first written.

TouristisBoard Zadarplace Archives Premuda a superb for diving enthusiasts - it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.

SILBA TOURIST BOARD QSilba, tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, tz.silba@zd.t-com.hr, www.tzsilba.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

UGLJAN That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal 50 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Zadar Surroundings PAKLENICA NATIONAL PARK The Paklenica National Park lies just north of Zadar within the Velebit mountain range. Two streams, the Velika and Mala Paklenica, carve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include the rare Griffon vulture, sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx.

The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are many more demanding routes. The park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation is available - reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: pd.paklenica@zd.htnet. hr. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on www.paklenica.hr ). Starigrad, the town at the park’s entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities.

PAKLENICA NATIONAL PARK QDr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+38523) 36 92 02/(+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@ paklenica.hr, www.paklenica.hr. Open 06:00 - 20:30.

Ticket 30 - 150kn.

settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest.Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and shingle and sand in the water.

The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko.

On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.

PREKO TOURIST BOARD QMagazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, tzpreko@ preko.hr, www.preko.hr. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 21:00, July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

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Zadar Surroundings NIN Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings.

Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic gems have their very own story to tell.

The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area.

The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings.

The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates. The arched gates are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical monuments.

Some of the archeological highlights include two original and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’, (11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture.

The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps. A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical and chemical effect.

The therapy is performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in warm sea water.

As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that nothing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form.

What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical structures entwined with the natural ambience of mother-nature that provides the perfect getaway.

We recommend that you visit:

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NIN TOURIST BOARD QTrg braće Radića 3, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+38523) 26 42 80, tzg-nina@zd.t-com.hr, www.nin.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

THE NIN SALT WORKS MUSEUM AND SHOP Dating back from the Roman times, this lagoon is filled with the essential elements that have seen the production of salt continue according to traditional methods unto this day. The museum offers displays, exhibits and multimedia and visitors can walk through the salt fields which are packed with diverse flora and fauna (280 bird species).

QIlirska cesta 7, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64/(+385-23) 26 40 21, prodaja@solananin.hr, www.solananin.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 35kn.

ZATON This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for many visitors and is located between the two historic cities of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape for a family holiday and action packed vacation because of its great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its rich cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn from the area. One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the dome above its center. The church was built with traces of the Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome during the Turkish wars.

The 16th century Kaštelin Tower was built as a defense structure against potential invaders. The engraved Latin in-

IST & MOLAT Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 - count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat.

Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks. Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised. zadar.inyourpocket.com

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Zadar Surroundings scription and coat of arms above the tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in 1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to defend Nin from Turkish raids. The parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are looking for somewhere to stay can find something to suit everyone’s taste and budget. Zaton is filled with private accommodation spots, well equipped camps and apartment hotels. The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous tourist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with a lush green backdrop, Zaton is your answer to that unforgettable dream getaway.

ZATON HOLIDAY RESORT QDražnikova 76t, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr.

STARIGRAD Cont inuing on our counterclockwise circuit of castles in Zadar County, Starigrad (“Old Town”) Vrana lies 11 kilometers south o f Benkovac via a secondary, but paved road. The modern day village of the same name surrounds the ancient, ruined, walled town. Much of the town walls remain, and the remains of a church are clearly discernable. Vrana also has had a turbulent history.

Originally it was a Roman settlement called Blandona. In the Middle Ages it was a Benedictine monastery, but the Holy See gave the town to the Templar knights in the 12th century. In 1312 Vrana came into the possession of the Templars‘ rivals, the Knights Hospitaller, who served not only as combatants but also as medics in the Crusades. For two centuries Vrana‘s prior was wealthy and influential, owning 40 other monasteries in the region. As with nearby towns, the Turks overran Vrana in the early 16th century. A Turkish military commander, one Alibeg Atlagić, re-fortified the town. When the Venetians captured Vrana and evicted the Turks in 1647, they destroyed much of the town‘s fortifications. If you are feeling adventurous, take a ferry from Zadar to Preko on the island of Ugljan, a journey of 20 minutes. About three kilometers from the ferry pier is the castle fortress of Saint Michael (“Sveti Mihovil”). It is perched on the highest point of the island (265 meters) and there are spectacular views in every direction, particularly of Iž Island and Dugi Otok 54 Zadar In Your Pocket

ZATON TOURIST BOARD QZadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, zaton-zd@inet.hr, www.zaton-zd.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

BIOGRAD The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings.

Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic - travelling throughout their territories between their power bases - often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important moments in Biograd’s history was the coronation of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 - the first time that the states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single crowned head - this time, by treaty.

You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date 925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian state and built the country into a military power rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church of St An-

(“Long Island”) to the west, but also Zadar to the east and countless Adriatic islands to the south. When you drive up from the ferry pier, turn right on the main road. After a kilometer or so take the narrow but well paved road that leads up to the west (left). There is a sign pointing the way to the castle (will wonders never cease!?). You can drive all the way, but there are several walking trails that ascend to the summit, too. Various monasteries were located at Sv. Mihovil beginning in the 10th century. The Venetians fortified Mihovil in the 13th century as an observation post. Because the site is so advantageous for this purpose, the Serbs shelled Sv. Mihovil in 1991. This is one place that the Turks did not succeed in capturing.

Unfortunately, now a communications tower inside the walls of the castle mars the atmosphere somewhat. Nevertheless, this ruin is worth visiting because of the great views. As you travel around the county you may observe other hilltop ruins. There are many more, but those described above are the largest and most spectacular. The fact that they were built for military reasons and changed hands so many times reflects the strategic importance of the Zadar area through the millennia.

Tourist Board Starigrad Archives

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Zadar Surroundings astasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside.

Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 20, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21, www.muzej-biograd.com.

Open 07:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a ten minute walk from the old town. Voted one of Croatia’s best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park. You can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun and a host of other amenities. The pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads you past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children. Be aware that some of the more secluded beaches along the coastline here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind. Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman. Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, Europe.

BIOGRAD N/M TOURIST BOARD Information on activites and trips, and maps of the area.

QTrg hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/ (+385-23) 38 53 82, info@tzg-biograd.hr, www.tzgbiograd.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

VRANSKO JEZERO NATURE PARK QKralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, pp-vransko-jezero@zd.t-com.hr, www.vransko-jezero. hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00.Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer to Park Management only; entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors 08:00 - 20:00 which includes weekends.

Entrance 10 - 20kn. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

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Shopping LAUDATO Gallery of sacred art and Croatian souvenirs.QD-3, Don Ive Prodana 11, tel. (+385-23) 30 07 49/(+385-) 091 589 84 14, laudato@laudato.hr, www.laudato.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Sea Cups, Lidia Boševski

Vitlov Chocolates

PIA Hands down the best gallery in the city! Located on Madijevaca street, a narrow step street branching off the middle of Široka street, that at first glance is even unnoticable. At Pia Gallery, you can find some of the most beautiful pieces of jewelry, paintings and pottery by local artists, plus a large selection of original handmade knickknacks.

QC-3, Madijevaca 8, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 06, galerija. pia1@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. JN THE ZADAR NATIONAL MUSEUM SHOP Want an original souvenir? Something authentic! Visit the ground floor of the City Guard at the Narodni Square and choose from published works, postcards, magnets, key rings, lavender packages, puzzles, art work reproductions and other souvenirs featuring motifs of the museum’s artefacts.QC-3, Narodni trg, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 98, www. nmz.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JN

DELICATESSEN SHOP Zadar Archaelogical Museum

ART GALLERIES ANCIENT GLASS MUSEUM’S SHOP Some say ‘a glass a day keeps the doctor away’, and you can pick and choose from a wide selection of authentic drinking glasses and other souvenirs made of glass including a wonderful necklace made by Antonija Gospić.QD-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www.mas-zadar.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A ANIMA Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian themes.QC-3, Vladimira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78 01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, zoran. debelic1@zd.t-com.hr, www.anima.hr. Open 09:00 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A BAMBOLA Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes.QC-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31 86 10. Open 09:00 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. A BUŽA As you stroll towards ‘Four kantuna’ at the top of Klaićeva Street, you will hardly notice this small gallery which bares the popular name buža (locally defined as a ‘hole’). Be sure to drop by this small family owned gallery run by academic painters Nedeljko Šuvar and Duje Šuvar.QD-3, Mihovila Klaića 4. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. N 56 Zadar In Your Pocket

BIBICH A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet products and gifts.QC-3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 46, alen.bibic@zd.htnet.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. A DELIKATESE LUKIN Established in 1919 and four generations later the tradition continues! This family prides itself on the typical Dalmatian delicacies they have mastered including various types of homemade sausages, prosciutto, pancetta and other meat products.

Smok’n meat is their treat!QC-2, Pod bedemom 1, tel. (+38523) 25 15 93. Open 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. JA GLIGORA Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.QN-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+385-23) 31 33 96, info@gligora.com, www.sirena.hr. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Mon, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

ANTIQUE MARKET A city that once thrived on trade and merchants, now gives you the opportunity to find that very unique treasure. As you enter the Old Town, through the City Gates and across the bridge, choose from the huge selection of Dalmatian fortunes or dare we say bargains that are on sale. QC-2, Jurja Barakovića Street, daily 09:00 - 14:00 and 15:00 - 22:00. zadar.inyourpocket.com

DISCOUNTS AT ARGENTUM SILVER JEWELLERY STORES

Zadar T. C. Supernova T. C. Interspar facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket Ulica Akcije Maslenica 1 Bleiburških žrtava 18

Super Konzum Summerbb 2014 57 Ante Starčevića

Shopping MARASKA Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity. Other groceries available too.QB-3, Mate Karamana 3, www.maraska.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. OLVIN A company producing its own high-quality olive oil, also selling wines and juices.QN-5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35.

Open 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N VITLOV ČOKOLADE This chic pastry shop offers a large selection of luxury pralines in a variety of different flavours, along with an abundance of chocolate squares made with dry fruits, pepper, cinnamon and ginger. While top Luxardo liqueurs available contain a plethora of aromas and unique flavours.These tasty sweets offer something for everyone’s taste!QC-3, Ulica plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31 31 48, www.cokoladavitlov.com. Open 10:00 - 22:30, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. AJ

NATURE CORNER

FOOD GIFTS The first thing that comes to a Croatian’s mind when they hear the name Pag is sheep. The second is salt. The barren, sun-baked terrain means that the herbs that the sheep munch on are salty and highly aromatic, lending a special flavour to their milk. Which makes great cheese. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. Many restaurants pass off rubbery, bland cheese resembling Edam as Pag cheese and thus deserve a good slapping. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying Paški sir.

Pršut is to Croatia what Prosciutto di Parma is to Italy.

(And they are essentially the same thing: cured ham - a tastebud-tingling delicacy).

Dalmatian Pršut can be dry and salty or butter-soft and mild. It’s difficult to go wrong, they’re all good, but the factory at Posedarje (just inland from Zadar) has been collecting international awards left, right and centre for its offering. Give yourself a lunchtime treat of pršut with fresh white bread, butter, home-grown tomatoes, local olive oil, a handful of olives and a good glass of red wine.

58 Zadar In Your Pocket

BIO SVIJET Eco-friendly products on offer including fresh organic vegetables picked from the outskirts of Zadar.QC-3, Knezova Šubić Bribirskih 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 34, , prodaja@bio-svijet. hr, www.bio-svijet.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. A JERKIN Herbal Pharmacy Jerkin, 45 years in the trade, produce a great range of natural remedies, teas, ointments, tinctures and natural cosmetics.QK-2, Prilaz Fabijanića 11, tel. (+385-23) 32 23 56/(+385-) 091 524 57 89, jerkinbilje@ yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. N KADULJA A “biljna drogerija” is a herbal pharmacy, a popular concept in Croatia since the beginning of time. Here you’ll find medicinal teas, vitamins, health foods, essential oils and natural cosmetics from companies such as Dr Hauschka.QB-1, Ivana Mažuranića 22, tel. (+385-23) 23 58 63. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A L’OCCITANE Also at Supernova Centar Zadar, tel. 34 40 18.QD-3, Narodni trg 3, tel. (+385-23) 70 04 04. Open 09:00 - 22:00. JA

SHOPPING CENTRES CITY GALLERIA QN-5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01 00, www. citygalleria.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. P SUPERNOVA CENTAR ZADAR QAkcije Maslenica 1, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www. supernova.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Hotels 4 STARS ART HOTEL KALELARGA QC-3, Ulica Majke Margarite 1, tel. (+385-23) 23 30 00, fax (+385-23) 23 30 01, info@arthotel-kalelarga.com, www.arthotel-kalelarga.com. 10 rooms (9 singles €163 - 179, 9 doubles €191 - 219, 1 Junior Suite €289 - 340).

PZARUGBKW hhhh BASTION QB-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50, fax (+385-23) 49 49 51, info@hotel-bastion. hr, www.hotel-bastion.hr. 28 rooms (23 singles €179 205, 23 doubles €219 - 250, 3 suites €337 - 370, 1 President apartment €420 - 480, 1 Junior Suite €298 - 328).

PZJHARFLGBKDXW hhhh FALKENSTEINER CLUB FUNIMATION BORIK QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, borik@falkensteiner.com, www.borik.falkensteiner.com. 298 rooms (94 doubles €81 - 136, 83 Mini Family €84 - 152, 58 Family Royal €94 - 157, 59 Family Suites €109 - 162, 4 Luxury Suites €).

PTHAUFLEGBKDCW hhhh FALKENSTEINER HOTEL ADRIANA QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, borik@falkensteiner.com, www. adriana.falkensteiner.com. 48 rooms (48 Junior Suites €172 - 302). PHAFLEGBKDXCW hhhh ILIRIJA QTina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 39 65 55, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www. ilirijabiograd.com. 165 rooms (158 doubles €48 - 125, 7 apartments €85 - 162). PTJHARF LEBKDCW hhhh KOLOVARE QN-6, Bože Peričića 14, tel. (+385-23) 20 32 00, fax (+385-23) 21 30 79, hotel.kolovare@hoteli-zadar.hr, www.hotel-kolovare.com. 203 rooms (27 singles 757 - 832kn, 128 doubles 1054 - 1334kn, 36 triples 1477 1869kn, 12 suites 1829 - 2159kn). PJHAUB KCW hhhh KORNATI QTina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 35 83 33, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www. ilirijabiograd.com. 106 rooms (102 doubles €43- 104, 4 apartments €70 - 130). PTJHARF LEBKDCW hhhh

facebook.com/ zadarinyourpocket facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

PINIJA QPetrčane bb, tel. (+385-23) 20 25 00, fax (+385-23) 36 41 31, info@hotel-pinija.hr, www.hotel-pinija.hr.

300 rooms (250 singles €62 - 108, 250 doubles €49 - 75, 50 Family Rooms €59 - 86) PTJHAUFB KDCW hhhh ZATON HOLIDAY RESORT QDražnikova ulica 76t, Zaton - Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 11, fax (+385-23) 26 42 26, sales.dept@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. 597 rooms (597 apartments €34 - 267).

PTA6UFLEBKCW hhhh Summer 2014

59

Hotels Hotel Lucija - Posedarje Tel: 023/266844, Fax: 023/266 843 prodaja@hotel-lucija.hr

MARINKO QG-4, Vladana Desnice 18, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 00/(+385-) 091 429 99 09, fax (+385-23) 33 36 16, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. 21 rooms (15 doubles €75, 6 triples €85). PALBKW hhh MEDITERAN QG-2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 00, fax (+385-23) 33 75 28, info@hotelmediteran-zd.hr, www. hotelmediteran-zd.hr. 30 rooms (30 singles 470 - 620kn, 30 doubles 590 - 850kn). PALGBKXW hhh

3 STARS ADRIATIC QTina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 29 07 00, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www. ilirijabiograd.com. 100 rooms (95 doubles €43 - 125, 5 apartments €80 - 135). PTJHAFLEB KDCW hhh AGAVA QBožava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12 91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr, www.hotelibozava.hr. 19 rooms (17 doubles €43 - 78, 2 apartments €43 - 78). PTA6FGKDCW hhh APARTHOTEL LEKAVSKI .QDražnikova 15, Zaton - Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 58 88, fax (+385-23) 26 58 90, hotel@Lekavski.de, www.

Lekavski.de. 18 rooms (14 doubles €50 - 95, 4 suites €75 - 135). PTALGBKCW hhh APARTMENTS MARGARITA MARIS QPut primorja 131, Sv. Filip i Jakov, tel. (+385-23) 29 24 00, fax (+385-23) 38 86 19, margarita-maris@zd.t-com. hr, www.vud.hr. 90 rooms (90 apartments 220 - 440kn).

Prices are per person. PHA6ULGB KXW hhh BOLERO QIvana Meštrovića 1, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 38 68 88, fax (+385-23) 38 68 80, recepcija@hotel-bolero.hr, www.hotelbolero.hr. 76 rooms (3 singles €60 - 90, 70 doubles €80 - 110, 3 quads €110 - 160). PTALBKXW hhh DONAT QF-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 55 56 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, donat@falkensteiner.com, www.hotel-donat.com. 240 rooms (36 singles €53 82, 126 doubles €47 - 74, 34 triples €47 - 74, 44 Family Rooms €53 - 80). PTHALEGBKXC hhh LAVANDA QBožava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12 91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr, www. hoteli-bozava.hr. 87 rooms (87 doubles €43 - 78).

PTA6FGBKDCW hhh 60 Zadar In Your Pocket

PORTO QR-2, Nikole Jurišića 2, tel. (+385-23) 29 23 00, fax (+385-23) 29 23 33, hotel.porto@zd.t-com.hr, www. hotel-porto.hr. 102 rooms (8 singles €54 - 56, 38 doubles €74 - 78, 51 triples €86 - 90, 5 apartments €98 102). PHARLGBKW hhh VILLA HREŠĆ QI-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 70, fax (+385-23) 33 43 36, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villahresc.hr. 9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120, 6 suites €130 - 220). PALGCW hhh

2 STARS KORINJAK QVeli Iž, Iž Island, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 64, fax (+38523) 27 72 48, info@korinjak.com, www.korinjak.com.

78 rooms (15 singles €40 - 65, 63 doubles €35 - 65).

HALGBKW hh

HOSTELS BOUTIQUE HOSTEL FORUM QB-3, Široka ulica 20, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 05, fax (+385-23) 25 07 95, booking@hostelforumzadar.com, hostelforumzadar.com. 111 dorm beds, €24 - 84 per person. PHAGXW DRUNKEN MONKEY HOSTEL QP-6, Jure Kastriotića Skenderbega 21, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 06/(+385-) 099 415 73 50, drunkenmonkeyhostel@ gmail.com, www.drunkenmonkeyhostel.com. 30 dorm beds, 165 - 250kn per person. PNGBCW ZADAR YOUTH HOSTEL QG-5, Obala kneza Trpimira 76, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 45, fax (+385-23) 33 11 90, zadar@hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. 253 dorm beds, 15 - 37€ per person. THAUGBKW

CAMPING AUTOKAMP PLANIK QRažanac, tel. (+385-23) 65 14 31/(+385-) 098 27 21 87, planik@planik.hr, www.planik.hr. Person per day 26 40kn, Children 17 - 24kn, Pitch 40 - 90kn, Car/Tent 20 - 30kn, Accomodation tax 6kn. W zadar.inyourpocket.com

Directory BUSINESS CONNECTIONS HGK - ŽUPANIJSKA KOMORA ZADAR (CROATIAN CHAMBER OF ECONOMY - ZADAR CHAMBER) The Zadar branch of the Croatian Chamber of Commerce.

QD-3, Špire Brusine 16, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 47, hgkzd@ hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Open 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. OBRTNIČKA KOMORA ZADARSKE ŽUPANIJE The County Chamber of Trade.QC-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 92 24/(+385-23) 31 92 73, ok.zadar@hok. hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

CONSULATES LITHUANIA QDr. Franje Tuđmana 14, Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+385-) 098 66 58 92, monttours@email.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, Sat, Sun by prior arrangement.

UKRAINE QO - 5, Ulica kralja Tvrtka 3, tel. (+385-23) 789 29 88, consul.malic@gmail.com. Open by prior arrangement.

DRY CLEANERS & LAUNDRIES ETILEN Dry cleaners and laundries.QN - 6, Ljudevita Posavskog 3, tel. (+385-23) 21 49 04. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

CENTRAL POST OFFICE QM-5, Kralja S. Držislava 1, tel. (+385-23) 22 23 55, www.posta.hr. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 19:00.

Closed Sun.

VETS ANIMALIA The name says it all and if you’ve brought your pet along with you, then let it be known that the ER services here range from the diagnosing and treating of pets, including contagious and parasite diseases, shots, laboratory tests as well as surgical and aesthetic operations. Animalia has everything your four-legged companion may ever need! Emergencies can be dealt with by phone 091 563 01 61.QL-2, Pašmanski prilaz 2, tel. (+385-23) 32 36 25/ (+385-) 091 563 01 61, animalia@zd.t-com.hr, www. animalia.hr. Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. N VETERINARSKA STANICA Animal clinic. For an emergency call 098 33 94 00.QK-2, Put Bokanjca bb, tel. (+385-23) 32 28 77. Open 07:00 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A ZOO - VET Sounds like the stuff reality shows are made of! For an emergency call 091 214 29 55.QR-4, Biogradska 65, tel. (+385-23) 21 42 95, www.zoo-vet.hr. Open 08:00 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Sun 09:00 - 11:00.

GOBIN Dry cleaners.QD-3, Don Ive Prodana 9, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 71. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. V

PHARMACIES CENTAR QD-3, Jurja Barakovića 2, tel. (+385-23) 30 29 20. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A DONAT QC-3, Braće Vranjanina 14, tel. (+385-23) 25 13 42/ (+385-23) 25 14 80. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sun.

POST If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.

Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. facebook.com/ZadarInYourPocket

Summer 2014

61

Hrvatskog sabo

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62 Zadar In Your Pocket

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Summer 2014

63

I. Meš

Brodarska

žura nića

a trović

Maraska Park

I. Ma

Marina Yacht Club Service

St. Voštarnica

OBALA KNEZA TRPIMIRA

ića Brkanovića

UVALA VRULJE

Frane Alfirev

OBALA KN

EZA B

LUKA FERRY

JADROLINIJA

BALA

KA O URNS

Mateja Poljana Natka Nodila

Hotel Bastion

Bianchija

ića Braće Bilši ć

ć duli J. Vi

Crkva sv. Donata St Donatus’ Church

St Peter the Elder’s Knezova Šubića Bribirskih

Hrvo

Jurja Dalmatin

Arheološki muzej Archeological Museum

Široka ul.–Kalelarga

a

FORUM

V. Papafave

je

ZADARSKOG MI

RA 1358.

OBALA KRALJA PETRA K

REŠIM IRA IV .

Palača suda Municipal Court

Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica

R I V A

BOLNICA HOSPITAL

SHOPPING

WI-FI

TURISTIČKE INFORMACIJE TOURIST INFORMATION

BUS ZA ZRAČNU LUKU BUS TO AIRPORT TRŽNICA, RIBARNICA MARKET, FISH MARKET

MARINA

POLICIJA POLICE

JEDNOSMJERNA ULICA ONE-WAY STREET

RESTORAN RESTAURANT

MUZEJ MUSEUM

HOTEL/HOSTEL

TAXI

NOĆNI KLUB NIGHT CLUB

AUTOBUSNA POSTAJA BUS STATION

PARKIRALIŠTE PARKING

JAVNI WC PUBLIC LAVATORY

LJEKARNA PHARMACY

BROD, KRUZER SHIP, CRUISER

TRAJEKT CAR FERRY

BENZINSKA POSTAJA GAS STATION

POSTAJA ZA TURISTIČKI AUTOBUS TOURIST BUS STATION

a

Šimuna K. Ben

G. Mrganića

Poljana Pape Ivana Pavla II.

Morske orgulje Sea organ

G

Crkva sv. Marije Madijevac a St Mary’s Church Zore Dalmatinske

Stup srama Pillar of shame

Pozdrav Suncu Greeting to the Sun

Matafare

Boutique Hostel Forum

Trg Sv. Stošije

Zanottija fra D. Fabijanića

Nikole

Katedrala sv. Stošije St Anastasia’s Cathedral

Brne Krnarutića Crkva sv. Krševana Crkva sv. Petra St Chrysogonus’ Starog i Sv. Andrije Church St Andrew’s and

Crkva sv. Ilije St Elias’s Church

Tanzlingera

Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv. Franje Asiškog St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery

a

Br. Vranjanin

and

L. M Braće Bersa

ISTARSKA OBALA

Ivana Danila

Jakše Ćuke

Crkva Gospe J. Bjankin ija od Zdravlja Church of Our Lady of Health

A. Paravije

Luke Jelića

Božidara P etrano vića

Carinarnica Customs house

bun

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ara

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I. Brčića

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don

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Arsenal

Prok. Grgura

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Poljana Pape Aleksandra III.

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Morska vrata (Vrata sv. Krševana) Sea Gate (St Chrysogonus’ Gate)

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anića Utvrda Forte The Forte Fortress

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ića

Knezova Posedarskih

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R. Levaković

Fra Š. Klimatov

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Perivoj Vladimira Nazora

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Kovačka Franje Iz Milan a

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Crkva sv. Dominika St Dominic’s Church

Š. Ljubavca

Sv. Nediljice

OVI

Trg 5 bunara

Ruđera Boškov

Varoška

Blaža Jurje

Špire Brusine

l

MIH

Košarkaška dvorana

Providurova palača Deputy’s Palace

Plemića Borelli

rica

ića

Perivoj kraljice Jelene-Madijevke

Trg Petra Zoranića

Crkva sv. Mihovila St Michael’s Church

mo

ita

Poljana Šime Budinića

Kneževa palača Rector’s Palace

ISLAVA

OBALA KRALJA TOM

aš

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l Kapetanova rtu kula Ba The Captain’s Tower

Medulićeva

K. Dalmatina

M. Margarite

anić

Sto

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Gradska loža City LodgeE. Kotrom

Đački dom Student dormitory

AVA

Perivoj Jarula

Palača Grisogono-Vovo Palace Grisogono-Vovo

Crkva sv. Šimuna St Simeon’s Church Don Ive Prodana

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Frederica Grisogona

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Art Hotel Kalelarga

dn

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Jurja Barakovića

Zlatarska

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Palača Ghirardini Palace Ghirardini

Gradska straža City Sentinel

na

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Gradska oja V. Hrvatinića vijećnica City Hall

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Veslački klub Rowing club

Most Bridge

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Veslačk a

R.J.Katalinića

S. Radića

B. J. Jelačić a

Velebitska

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Sveučilište University

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66 Zadar In Your Pocket

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