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zadar Summer 2011

Broad horizons

Concerts and culture to gladden the heart and move the soul

Back to nature

Zadar County‘s best spots for fishing and birdwatching

N°8 - complimentary copy

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Contents

3

Contents Arriving in Zadar

5

Wherefore beer?

Basics

6

Tricks, tariffs and smoking

History

7

Zadar districts

9

Culture & Events

10

Everything that´s on in Zadar

Where to Stay

20

Hole up for the night in style (or disrepair)

Restaurants

23

Look behind those pretty facades and you’ll discover cool, atmospheric places and cultural treasures.

29

Mail & Phones

Food goes in your tummy. Mmmmm.

Cafés Where to sit and sip

Nightlife

30

Shake your thang

What to See

40

21st century smoke signals

Getting Around

42

All dressed up and somewhere to go? 33

Eyes front!

Sport

45

Climbing, diving and mountain biking

Shopping

48

We´ll help you get rid of that extra cash

Business Directory

50

Lifestyle Directory

51

Birdwatching in Croatia

52

Fishing on the Adriatic

55

Zadar County

57

Maps & Index County map City map/Street index City centre map Country map

69 70 72 74

Sun. Sea, Fab scenery. Great festivals and parties... Come on people, what more could you want?

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Summer 2011


4

ArrivING in ZADAR

Foreword Summer has struck and the forecast indicates another sizzling season of fun and excitement in Zadar. Our crew has worked day and night to gather all of the latest in where to be and what to do. We have something for everyone! A comprehensive guide to the city’s architectural monuments will dazzle sightseers, not to mention our special on the ancient fortresses that were built in defending this gem of a city. Nature enthusiasts will be treated to some of the finest national parks and islands in Europe whilst those that seek an adrenalin rush, can fill their calendars with adventure sports throughout the entire summer. As you have chosen your stay along the Adriatic, we cannot leave without mentioning the gastronomic delights that await you. Our pages on cafés and restaurants are practical and provide some insightful tips in choosing where to nibble and dine. We wish you all a sensational summer!

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Zadar In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Croatia tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1334-9228 ©Plava Ponistra d.o.o. Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Cover The Musical Evenings in St Donatus Church

Zadar In Your Pocket

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By boat Travelling by boat is a great option in summertime. Why waste your time frying in traffic when you could be sunning yourself on the deck with a cool drink, watching the islands go by, or enjoying the cool night breeze? Your arrival in Zadar is spectacular: the ferries dock right on the Old Town peninsula. All the amenities of the Old Town are just behind that defensive wall you see there. Jadrolinija’s international services connect Zadar with Ancona (Italy) almost every day. See the “Getting around” section for contact details for schedules and all ticket sales.

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By plane

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In Your Pocket has broken much new ground of late, publishing new guides in the Netherlands (Tilburg, with Amsterdam to follow very soon), in Austria (Vienna), in Croatia (Šibenik), in Switzerland (Zurich) and in Belarus (Minsk). This year will also see the first non-European Pockets rolled out in South Africa and Mozambique. We also continue to roll out iPhone apps to all our cities. We will be launching even more In Your Pocket guides as apps throughout this year: to find out which cities we will be covering, and to keep up to date with all In Your Pocket news, like In Your Pocket on Facebook (facebook.com/ inyourpocket) or follow us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket).

Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Assistant Editor Kristina Kovač Contributors Nataly Anderson, Frank Jelinčić, Tocher Mitchell, Jonathan Bousfield Researcher Anita Piplović, Blanka Valić Layout & Design Ivana Novak, Gordan Karabogdan, Maja Vidović Photos Zadar In Your Pocket team, Tourist Board Zadar, TZ Dugi Otok, Stjepan Felber, Robert Marnika, Stipe Surać, Darko Posavec, National Museum Zadar Sales & Circulation General Manager Višnja Arambašić Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević zagreb@inyourpocket.com Account Manager Mirna Cindrić

toll booths, intersections, ferry terminals and around coastal resorts on Fridays and Sundays. If you can’t avoid travelling at weekends, you may find that the roads clear up in the evening. Tolls are payable on Croatian motorways - most currencies are accepted. If a strong “bura”, a northeast wind, is blowing, the motorway bridge closes. This rarely happens in the summer, but if it does, you can now use the reopened Maslenica bridge, which was destroyed in the war. It’s far more sheltered from these winds. Take the old road to Maslenica which runs parallel to the motorway. For up to date traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr. They have regular updates in English, German and Italian. Also listen out for foreign language reports for tourists on local radio.

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright Plava Ponistra 1992 - 2011. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

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Not to be missed A Greeting to the Sun – an urban installation consisting of 300 multilayered glass floorboards with a circular diameter of 22 meters along the waterfront. Photo powered solar modules absorb sunlight during the day which produce a light spectacle synchronised with the rhythm of the waves and the sounds of the Sea Organ.

By bus Zadar Coach Station, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. 060 305 305. Bus travel is the preferred method of public transportation for earthbound Croatians, because it remains, for the time being, the quickest and most comfortable way of getting around the country. Prices are reasonable: a single ticket to Zagreb costs around 125kn. There are frequent links to all Croatian cities and, especially in high season, abroad. The bus station is on the crossroads northeast of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb. Because the bus services are so much used, the bus station is a real hub and has everything you need. Left luggage: the garderoba is in the ticket hall and works from 06:00 to 22:00 and costs 2.20kn per hour. Toilets: located on the right as you face the building from the platforms. Public phones are on the platforms and in front of the building. Shops and cafes: At least one snack bar works all night, and news kiosks, bakeries and a mini-market are all open from about 06:00 to 22:00, except weekends, when they may close earlier. There are several cafes where you can take the weight off until your connection arrives. Getting to town: On the road in front of the bus station are bus stops for the local lines which take you to the Old Town, Borik, Diklo and the suburbs. A 8kn ticket bought inside the bus gets you a one way trip; a 13kn ticket bought at the ticket office (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun) buys you two trips.

By car The A1 motor way between Zagreb and Dalmatia is a complete, navigable whole with no interruptions. Zadar is the first port of call, and the motorway continues past all the major resorts on the way to Split and beyond. Journey time between Zagreb and Zadar is about 2.5 hours depending on when you travel. Since most holidaymakers travel at weekends, there can be congestion on borders, at motorway

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Zadar Airport - Zračna luka Zadar, flight info tel. 20 58 00. www.zadar-airport.hr. Zadar’s airport (zračna luka) is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Changing money: OTP banka in the passenger terminal operates an exchange service and an ATM. Calling home: Purchase a phone card at a newsstand and use one of the public pay phones. Getting to town: Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.

By train Zadar Train Station, Ante Starčevića 4, National info line: 060 333 444, www.hznet.hr. The train station is right next to the bus station. Somehow, transport planners failed to integrate Zadar with mainline routes. This means that journeys between Zadar and Zagreb or Split are possible but involve changing trains and take considerably longer than travel by bus. The fastest connections leave Zagreb for Zadar at 12:15 throughout the tourist season. Journey time is about 7½ hours, involving a change at Knin. Full price adult fares are 167 - 177kn single and 267 - 283kn return - considerably more expensive than the slow train, but much faster. Or you can load your car onto the sleeper for Split and drive on from Knin. There are several trains per day between Zagreb and Split, taking anything between 5 and 9 hours, with a change at Knin. A single ticket costs about 90kn. The train station doesn’t have a lot of facilities, but since you are next door to the bus station, you can make use of all the services available there. The ticket office is open 07:20 - 14:50. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains. A kiosk outside the main entrance works from 06:00 to about 21:00. Getting to town: see “By bus”.

Tourist information

i

Tourist Information Centre D-3, Mihe Klaića 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 61 66, info@tzzadar.hr, www.tzzadar. hr. Q July - September 30 Open 08:00 -24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 -24:00. Zadar County Tourist Board A-3, Sv.Leopolda Mandića, tel. (+385-23) 31 53 16, fax (+385-23) 31 51 07, tz-zd-zup@zd.t-com.hr, www.zadar.hr. QOpen 07.00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Zadar Tourist Board D-3, Ilije Smiljanića 5, tel. (+385-23) 21 22 22, fax (+385-23) 21 17 81, tzgzadar@zd.t-com.hr, www.tzzadar.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Summer 2011

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basics

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History Customs

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2001): 4,437,460 Zadar County: 162,045 Zadar (April 2001): 72,718 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia & Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and there is a sea-border with Italy. Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and were just named some of its most pure! Zadar County: Zadar County measures 7,854km2, of which roughly half is sea. The islands belonging to Zadar County measure 580km2. Islands: An amazing 1,246 islands lie off the coast, 47 of them inhabited. Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Zadar it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

All major items brought into the country (laptops, boats, sauna equipment) must be declared; to do so ensures you will be allowed to take them back when you leave. Keep receipts in order to qualify for a VAT refund at all border customs offices. Any Croatian art or cultural works must receive export approval before purchase. For further details www.carina.hr or call +385-1 610 23 25/610 24 61.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Roads If you’re under 24 years of age, the 0,0% alcohol rule applies to you. If you are, however, over that age, a limit of 0,5% applies to you, effective June 1, 2008. Once again, we’ll leave it to others to debate the pros and cons of this change, but given the mountainous terrain along the coast, this law will probably save lives. And the police are enforcing it. Speed kills more people on Croatian roads than alcohol does. Speed traps are common along the Adriatic highway and speed patrol cars have been introduced on the motorways. The speed limit in urban areas is 50kph unless otherwise marked; 80kph on secondary roads and 130kph on highways. On the spot fines are payable for offences. If you are stopped for any reason, you will be expected to show your driving licence, car registration papers and insurance certificate, so make sure to always keep them with you.

Climate Temperature, °C

Rainfall, mm

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0

25

-10 -20

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Emergency number 112 Police Fire department Ambulance Coast guard

Zadar In Your Pocket

192 93 94 9155

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occupations that were to last over three hundred years. In 1202 the Venetians launched a particularly bitter attack with the help of the Crusaders, whom the Venetian Doge used in his march towards Palestine. This ended in 1358, when, in a peace treaty concluded in the Franciscan church, Zadar was handed over to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Despite all this violence, between the 11th and the 14th century a golden age of art and culture was nurtured behind the protective walls encircling the city. Zadar still played a key role in the administration of Dalmatia, and enjoyed growth in political and commercial life. Architecture dating back to this time includes the Cathedral of St. Anastasia, and many other churches, monasteries, convents, palaces and public buildings.

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Money

Photo by Robert Marnika

Forced to turn their attention seawards, the inhabitants of Zadar focused on shipping, and the city became a naval power to rival Venice. It was around this time that rebuilding began to take place. For example, at this time (the 9th century AD), St. Donatus’ Church was built. Meanwhile, the Croatian state was forming inland, and trade and political links with Zadar began to develop. Croatian settlers began to arrive, becoming commonplace by the 10th Century. Zadar sought independence from Byzantium, and in 1069 was joined by treaty to Croatia under Croatian King Petar Krešimir IV. In 1102, the Croatian-Hungarian state was formed, and in 1105 Zadar officially recognised the authority of the Croatian-Hungarian kings. The rivalry with Venice intensified, and at the end of the first millenium the Venetians began a series of onslaughts and

The unit of currency is the kuna (kn) - most places are not able to accept foreign currency. Kuna notes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500 and 1000kn denominations, and coins in 1, 2, 5 and 25 kuna. The kuna is divided into 100 lipa. 50, 20, 10, 5 and even worse-than-useless 2 lipa coins exist. You can exchange money in banks and private ex­change bu­reaux. Bank ATMs are to be found in most towns - but don’t rely on this in small island villages. Credit cards are commonly accepted, with the ex­ception of smaller res­ tau­rants, shops and guest houses - check in advance.

National holidays January 1 January 6 April 8 2012 April 9 2012 May 1 June 7 2012 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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Summer 2011

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History

ZADAR DISTRICTs In the 15th century, internal fights within the CroatianHungarian state resulted in its loss of influence in Dalmatia, and Zadar, together with much of the surrounding mainland and islands, were sold to Venice for 100 000 ducats. Although there was widescale repression of the local inhabitants, Zadar remained the capital of Dalmatia under Venice. It was the main port and naval base on the East Adriatic. Building continued this was the late Gothic and early Renaissance period. In the 16th century, Turkey invaded inland Dalmatia, and Zadar retreated behind reinforced bastions, and, aided by the Venetian colonisers, became the largest city-fortress in the Venetian Republic. Although trade withered, art and culture experienced a further period of blossoming. Plague, however, ravaged the city. In 1699, a peace was concluded with the Turks signalling the end of war. A century later, Napoleon’s armies defeated Venice, and Zadar and Dalmatia were peacefully attached to the Hapsburg Empire, only to be handed back to the French in 1805. Under the French, Zadar enjoyed eight years of social reform and awakening of public consciousness, until the Austrians took the city back again in 1813. The Austrians administered the region from Zadar for the next hundred years. The regime, although strict, was in many ways progressive. Museums were founded, road links improved, and the first modern city water system was completed in 1838. Croatians in Zadar, with an ever-growing awaress of national identity, began to press for linguistic and political autonomy. The Dalmatian Parliament (Sabor) was founded in 1861. Peace reigned, and in 1868, some of the outer fortifications surrounding the Old Town were dismantled, giving the southern side (the Riva) its present promenade. Parks were built, and cultural life prospered once more. In 1898 Zadar was connected to the electricity grid - the first town in what is now Croatia. In 1918, the Austro-Hungarian Empire collapsed, and the 1920 treaty of Rapallo between Italy and the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes handed a section of the coast, including Zadar, to the Italians, who called it Zara. Zadar remained under Italian rule until it was occupied by the Germans, then liberated by the Allies in 1944, to become part of Tito’s Yugoslavia. Unfortunately, in the process, they bombed 65 percent of the city to ruins. However, in the 1950s an enthusiastic programme of rebuilding took place. Many of the buildings on Široka ulica (or Kalelarga) the beloved main throroughfare of the old town, date back to this time. Industry developed and the population expanded fivefold from its post-war number of 6000. In the 1960s, the importance of tourism grew. Relative peace and prosperity began to fall apart during the 1980s when economic problems and the decay of the Socialist bloc led to national unrest. Croatia found itself in an untenable position within the borders of Yugoslavia, and Zadar in an even more uncomfortable position with a volatile Serb majority in the Krajina hinterland. During the war of 1991-1995, Zadar was under siege for three months, and bombarded from positions further afield for most of the duration of the war. The population was forced underground, surviving on inadequate supplies of food and water. Though the scars of all these wars are still visible, rebuilding is now taking place in every sense.

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Arbanasi

Arbanasi lies just to the north of Kolovare. It’s an old district where remnants of Neolithic settlements can still be found, as well as parts of the Roman aqueduct built to bring water to the city from Vransko lake 40km away, and a Roman necropolis in the grounds of the tobacco factory (still working). Arbanasi was once a settlement in its own right. It gained its name and its importance in the 18th century when migrants from Albania settled there after fleeing from the Turks. Today’s Arbanasi has a gentle, village feel. The atmosphere is quite different from the rest of the city. It’s worth a wander round to see how people live day by day away from the tourist hubbub.

Borik and Diklo

A large complex of hotels and a campsite have evolved at Borik, which have managed not to overwhelm the forces of nature, so it’s still one of the most popular places for tourists and locals alike to spend time at the beach. An ever-growing number of cafes, bars and restaurants is springing up to cater for the rising number of visitors, and quite a bit of renovation is taking place at the moment, so facilities are ever improving. Heading west from Borik is a beach-lined coastal path studded with places to eat and drink, surrounded by ever more peaceful residential areas and the beach area of Diklo. It’s a quieter place to stay, to relax and bathe.

with pavement cafes. It’s surrounded by shady parks on top of the ancient fortifications. The outer promenade beyond the ferry port, known as the Riva, is a relaxed place to stroll and swim.

Puntamika

An area with quite some history dating back to Neolithic settlements. It was an important defensive point because geographically it guards the shipping entrance to the old town - that’s why the city lighthouse is here. The coastal road is bustling in summer, with cafes, restaurants and a marina.

Relja

Relja is just north-east of the peninsula. Notice, as you walk northwards, some older builings. They are called Talijanke (“the Italian girls”) because they were built during the times the Italians ruled Zadar. Though somewhat unremarkable from the outside, they are architecturally important with twisting stairwells and pleasant courtyards. Relja now has a shiny new indoor shopping centre full of boutiques and cafes.

Voštarnica, Brodarica

Borik

Kolovare

Directly east of the Old Town peninsula is Kolovare, a genteel district of beachside villas. Kolovare’s seafront is the old town beach as well, and a popular place to spend free time. You can walk all the way along the beatifically-named coast path (Karma) to the promontory at Punta Bajlo and the adjoining islet Sveti Klement, a former leper colony that is now a bathing spot (eeew!) The way is tree-lined, so shady by day, and punctuated by cafes. Near the beginning of the walk is the Fontana, an attractive 16th century well with a cupola, built by the Venetians for use by their naval fleets.

Old Town peninsula

It goes without saying, it’s the heart and soul of the city. Crowded onto the peninsula, fortified in its entireity but eternally under attack by foes through the ages, parts of the city have been destroyed and rebuilt so many times over three millennia that few places on Earth can rival it for its eclectic mix of architecture. As well as the dizzying number of churches, monasteries and historical monuments, it’s also the commercial centre, with an ever-increasing choice of boutiques and galleries, and, of course, it’s the centre of social life and cafe society. The main shopping street Široka (known locally as Kalelarga) is a busy thoroughfare for people with things to do, even if that’s only strolling in good company. In summer it’s crowded

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Just over the footbridge and heading west, these districts still constitute the commercial and residential heart of the city. Continue a little further north and you’ll come to a neighbourhood known as SAS after a former factory, and you’ll find the Gotham entertainment complex with its club, cafe and cinema next to the Nova Banka tower.

…Zadar created basketball Croatians, giants as they are, are both accomplished players and passionate followers of basketball (here called košarka). Much as they love to follow the progress of their tennis stars on the circuit and their footballing heroes in the big European clubs, so they watch their countrymen take on the best in the NBA, whilst netting huge amounts of cash, model girlfriends and eventual hamstring injuries. Krešimir Ćosić is perhaps Zadar’s bestknown player – a mammoth statue in his image stands guard over the entrance to the Old Town, basketball held in meditative awe. He was the first European in the NBA. This June, the city (understandably) went crazy when Zadar beat Zagreb team Cibona to win the Croatian league for the first time in 19 years.

Summer 2011

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events

Classical Music Concerts

Exhibitions

15.07 Friday

07.12 Tuesday - 08.12 Saturday

Split String Quartet

Flora and Fauna of the Adriatic

St Jerolim’s Church, Ugljan, Island Ugljan. The string quartet is one of the most featured chamber ensembles in classical music. This young musical ensemble was founded in 2005 and is made up of experienced chamber musicians from Split’s musical circles. The members are Valter Lovričević (violin), Ana Tošić (violin), Igor Smoday (viola) and Mihovil Karuza (cello). Concert starts at 20:30

Club Nights

C-2, National Museum Zadar - Natural history department, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. Who says you need to get wet in order to see what is under the sea? This exhibit systematically presents its plants and animals from microscopic flora and fauna through to the Adriatic’s largest sharks and sea turtles. The exhibition will showcase 512 items with 52 photographs and 460 animal or plant samples. Educational and tops for all ages! Q Admission 5 - 15kn.

02.05 Monday - 02.08 Tuesday

08.07 Friday

Gnalić - The Treasures from a Sunken Ship

Armin Van Buuren

Papaya, Novalja, info@papaya.com.hr, www.papaya. com.hr. DJ Mag has voted Van Buuren as the number one DJ in the world for the third year running. That same DJ is playing in Croatia at the audacious Papaya Club for the third year in a row. Hmmm isn’t that odd? It must be for good reason then… A must see exclusive event with the Lord of Trance pelting out his hits and giving his audiences that uncontrollable urge to move and jump in the air - with devotion. Show starts at 23:00. Q Tickets 150kn.

C-2, National Museum Zadar, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. Ahoy matey! See the true discovery of a 16th century merchant ship that was found 30 meters below sea level in 1967, near the island of Gnalić. The cargo on board included bronzed cannons with Venetian and French coats of arms, a huge anchor, decorative objects such as glasses and chandeliers that all point to famous Murano glass workshops as well as ceramic dishes, silk cloth, needles, copper plates and more. Q Admission 10 - 15Kn.

04.08 Thursday

Gareth Emery - Dance Republic

Papaya, Novalja, info@papaya.com.hr, www.papaya. com.hr. This Southampton trance DJ is a whizz on the turntables and is able to produce a high-energy tempo yet incorporate smooth instrumental tunes to balance the pace for members on the dance floor fraternity. Named 7th best DJ in DJ Mag’s Top 100, Emery is emerging as a global star of trance music. Show starts at 20:00. Q Tickets 150kn. Zvonko Kucelin

Ljerka Njerš Art Glass

15.05 Sunday - 15.07 Friday

Ljerka Njerš Art Glass

D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar. hr. Imagine working with glass requiring 800 degrees for a thermal finish. This is what Njerš does and she is one of Croatia’s finest ceramicists having studied at the most prestigious ceramic, porcelain and lithography workshops from Lisbon to London. Her glass art work generates light and embraces all of her previous craftsmanship in ceramics and tapestry. Q Admission 10 - 30kn.

17.05 Tuesday - 10.06 Friday

Awarded Croatian Architecture 90 - 09

D-3, Knight’s Palace (Kneževa palača), Poljana Šime Budinića bb. Interested in design and construction? See a showcase of our national award winning architecture over the last 20 years through the photographs of Miljenko Bernfest. He portrays the present day condition of previously awarded projects and depicts not only architecture, but the ways in which buildings age and change. Just as we do.

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Summer 2011

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events this majestic region. Of special interest are the small hills, vegetation and Mediterranean architecture he was able to capture! This is the 3rd cycle which can be seen this summer. Q Admission 5 - 10kn.

13.06 Monday - 24.06 Friday

A photo exhibition of Varoš- then and now

L-4, City Library, Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23) 30 11 03. St. Peter is said to have the keys to heaven, and when looking at the foundations of the former St. Mary’s Church in Zadar from a bird’s eye view, a perfect blueprint of a 6 leafed key can be seen. Legend has it that is resembles the keys of St. Peter. This exhibit presents 80 photos of the former city gate of Stomarica and ruins of St. Mary’s Church.

16.06 Thursday - 30.06 Thursday

Branka Riđicki

D-3, Kapetanova kula (The Captain’s Tower Gallery), Trg 5 bunara bb. Local born artist who through her travels and studies presents some of her works in painting, media, photography and film. She has developed an interest in different cultures which can thoughtfully be seen through her art. Quadruple hook embroidery on worsted is typical of women’s folk costume in Northern Dalmatia. The most common pattern is a cross combined with ornaments such as knots, rings, tendrils, rosettes and spirals.

18.05 Wednesday - 30.06 Thursday

From the Cosmacendi Palace to the Museum of Ancient Glass

D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33. The former Classicist Cosmacendi Palace dates from the late 19th century and has been completely renovated whilst regaining its original façade. This exhibition presents the history of the Moro bastion on which the Cosmacendi Palace was built in 1877. The Museum of Ancient Glass contains 4000 glass objects dating from the period between the 1st and 5th century, the early Roman Empire and Late Classical period. The artefacts derive from the broader Zadar area and from the whole of Croatia. Q Admission 10 - 30kn.

20.05 Friday - 01.07 Friday

28.06 Tuesday - 12.07 Tuesday

A photo exhibition of Zadar County

D-3, Knight’s Palace, Poljana Šime bb. Want to see more of Zadar but you can’t? Want a true souvenir but you can’t find one? Then this exhibit brings the best of Zadar to you! See the county’s unspoilt countryside over and above its cultural and traditional beauty. A great gift is the monograph available with over 200 pages of photographs and information. Q Admission 10kn.

01.07 Friday - 30.08 Tuesday

Exhibition by the HDLU members Zadar

D-3, Kapetanova kula (The Captain’s Tower Gallery),Trg 5 bunara bb. These are the yearly and latest works by members of HDLU Zadar (Croatian Society of Fine Artists).

Not to be missed The Museum of Ancient Glass – situated in the Cosmacendi Palace

Zadar Photographers

07.06 Tuesday - 21.06 Tuesday

Islands’ Photographers

07.06 Tuesday - 26.06 Sunday

Miljenko Domijan: Terra Toscana

D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. See Florence and its surroundin gs like never b efore as Croatia’s leadin g conservatoire presents his impressions and collages of

Zadar In Your Pocket

28.08 Sunday - 30.09 Friday

Dražen Trogrlić - Glass Sculptures

B-3, Terre Verte Gallery, Mate Karamana 10, tel. (+38523) 25 00 40. Water in its purest form is the essence of Dalibor Rubido’s artistic expression. As the best graduate in his year from the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb, he too was a rower, and an active athlete. Despite not partaking in such activities as often now, his artwork continues to show his love and passion for water.

18.07 Monday - 18.08 Thursday

Predrag Petrović - The Ceramics and Glass of the island of Iž

D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar.hr. Meet a man who has been working as a potter for 23 years and presents the making of traditional ceramics with glass. Petrović mastered his craft from his fellow islanders and is now the island’s last remaining potter, a tradition that has been upheld since 1530. The most characteristic feature of Iž pottery is the mixing of clay and calcium with feet on leather and baking it on an open fire. Its preparations last for days. And who could ever forget the old pottery wheel which has been long abandoned in other places? Q Admission 10 - 30kn.

A-3, Arsenal, Tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20. The exhibition shows motifs and photos as donated by the Zadar Public Museum and Zadar photographers. Viewers can see photos from different generations: including Pero Gojić, Abdulah Seferović, Vicko Zaninović and others. The Damaged Hearing Sense Association, founded in 1955, wishes to inform the public about their work through this exhibition.

B-3, Terre Verte Gallery, Mate Karamana 10, tel. (+38523) 25 00 40. So you cannot get to all the 1246 Croatian islands, who can? This traditional exhibition just may help as the Kornati Photo Club annually present their works, depictions of towns, boats and landscapes of islands and the sea.

18.07 Monday - 02.08 Tuesday

Dalibor Rubido

08.08 Monday - 01.09 Thursday

Photo Exhibition by Zvonko Kucelin “Little Red Riding Hood” was the first performance of the Zadar Puppet Theatre in 1951. This year the theatre celebrates 60 years of work and gets a new building into the bargain. You can see the theatre’s work during the Zadar Summer Theatre on 4 July at 21.30 in Dt Dominik’s Church, when there will be a performance of Miroslav Krleža’s Michelangelo Buonarotti.

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D-3, City Lodge, Narodni trg. One of the stalwarts of photography in this region will exhibit 100 of his finest photographs as a newspaper reporter. See Kucelin’s works which represent his 30 year career with topics that include culture, sport and politics from his hometown of Zadar to faraway New York. He brings to life the first 20 twenty years of his photography with black and white images and the last 10 years are in colour. Q Admission 5 - 10kn.

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D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr. This jack of all trades expresses himself through various mediums from fine art, drawing and print, to sculpting rock, metal and glass. Trogrlić treats volume, surface and texture as elements of the same value. By using transparent glass and non transparent wood, he brings forth an enchanting visual tension between these two materials. Q Admission 10 - 30 kn.

23.12 Friday - 30.01 Monday

Angels Without Borders

D-2, The Museum of Ancient Glass, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 33, www.mas-zadar.hr. Ivo Pervan is an award winning Croatian photographer who has ventured between heaven and earth for this exhibit. He depicts angel motifs of different materials and techniques from Croatia through to Sofia, Rome, Berlin and Mainz. By crossing borders, he hopes to bring that touch of divinity to his work. Photos which in reality are only 2cm big have been enhanced so that even the tiniest angels found on church tops, can now be seen. Q Admission 10 - 30kn.

Cinemas Callegro Cinema C-3, Široka ulica 18, tel. (+38523) 20 49 00, info@callegro.com, www.callegro. com. CineStar N-5, Murvička 1 (City Gallery), tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33/(+385-23) 62 88 54.

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events Opera, Operetta & Ballet 13.07 Wednesday Rigoletto B-3, Forum, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52, www.donat-festival. hr. An opera ensemble from Italy performs one of Verdi’s masterpieces.This three-act opera has the makings of an epic. From the portrayal of Rigoletto the hunchbacked jester, to the Duke, a ladies’ man of his time, and Gilda, the innocent victim, this is a story of love, treachery and vengeance. Opera starts at 21:00. Q Tickets 70 - 80kn. J

Rock & Pop Concerts 17.06 Friday

Urban&4 Dubioza kolektiv

The Museum of Ancient Glass The museum is housed in the nineteenth-centur y Cosmacendi Palace, perched on former town walls overlooking Jazine harbour.

The museum contains one of the finest collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a profusion of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archeological sites across Dalmatia – notably Zadar (ancient Iader), Nin (Aenona), Starigrad-Paklenica (Argyruntum ) and Podgrađe (Asseria). Highlights include the delicate, graceful vessels used by Roman-era ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. These treasured items of domestic glassware were often taken to the grave by their owners – much of the collection comes from excavations at Relja in Zadar, where the main cemetery of ancient Iader was located. Also look out for glass cups used by early Christians to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored.The replica Roman glassware museum on sale in the museum shop makes this one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city. As part of the museum there is a souvenir workshop where you can learn more about the almost forgotten craft of blowing glass in a school purposely made for just that.

A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20. A melodic to heavy pop/rock/industrial singer, songwriter and guitarist. He had his first public performance as a 16 year old in Rijeka with the band “La bellona” and has won numerous music awards. Urban’s stage presence is exemplary, emotive and a treat. Many conisder him Croatia’s David Bowie with similar vocals.

25.06 Saturday

Dubioza kolektiv

D-3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke i Park Kapetanski. One of the wonders in this region are Bosnian outfit ‘Dubioza kolektiv’, last year the band released their fourth album entitled “5 do 12” which is on the list of 20 albums nominated for the ‘European Independent Album of the Year’ Award. The band plays a reggae/dub/rock style of music with burning lyrical subjects that deal with corruption, bureaucracy, recession and poverty. Q J

26.08 Friday

Rade Šerbedžija

A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20. The famous Croatian and Hollywood actor will hold a concert as part of the Forum Film festival. He is accompanied by the members of his multi talented family, and is showing his mastery in both theatrical stage bravura as well as folk-ethno musical sounds.

Coming soon UB 40

B-3, Forum. British dub/reggae/pop act UB40 ought to soothe your souls as you escape the daytime summer heat. They have sold a whopping 70 million records and hits such as ‘Red Red Wine’, ‘Can’t Help Falling in Love’ and ‘I Got You Babe’ topped billboard charts worldwide. Few acts have put reggae back on the world map as have these lads from Birmingham. Concert starts at 22:00. Q Tickets 100kn available at the www.eventim.hr or Tourist Information centre, Mihe Klaića 2. J

Zadar In Your Pocket

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Summer 2011

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events

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big night out. In the Old Town, stalls spring up selling fresh, simple, fishy food and bevanda - white wine and water, a popular drink in hot weather. Dalmatian acapella groups (klapa) brighten the atmosphere in the konobas (traditional fishermen’s reataurants) and wander the streets adding to the general warmth and gaiety.

27.06 Monday - 30.06 Thursday

Get EXITed music festival

Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag. An additional event has been added to Papaya’s scorching summer calendar with Get EXITed. Consider this the appetiser to one of the world’s largest festivals, the EXIT festival in Novi Sad, Serbia. This open air event will have you bopping day and night with some of the finest DJ’s turning the tables and coming our way. Q Tickets 150kn at www.eventim.hr.

30.06 Thursday - 04.08 Thursday

The 17th Zadar Summer Theatre

Special events

Antonija Gospić

10.06 Friday - 11.06 Saturday

Festival of the Amateur Culture and Creativity - F.A.K.K.

D-3/4, Dom hrvatske mladeži - Mihovila Pavlinovića bb, Student Centre Božo Lerotić, Deputy Palace (Providurova palača). A plethora of music, art, workshops, film and hands on do it yourself activities are up for grabs. Hand made products will be exhibited by amateur artists, attend workshops on hand embroidery and stencil art, learn how to make graphite stencils by using Photoshop and more. Amateur films from the 10th RAF Festival will be screened. Wind down with the ‘chill sessions’ after 22:00. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. J

23.06 Thursday - 24.06 Friday

Tango Festival

A-3, Arsenal, Trg bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20. Love Latino and tango? Then get into the swing of this dance bonanza as performance groups and pairs strut their stuff at the 2nd edition of this event. Passers by are more than welcome to join in and even learn from the best!

C-3, Deputy’s Palace (courtyard), St Dominic’s Church (D-3), Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Zadar, Široka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86, hkk-zd@zd.t-com.hr. One of the city’s traditional summer events with theatre performances and musicals to be held in the evenings, set amidst historical grandeur. A repertoire of local and foreign art performances are scheduled. This year’s programme is divided into two: Part 1 presents a drama and dance programme whilst Part 2 is the musical programme called The Contemporary Music Festival. Some of the concerts this summer: 21.07. Jazz Hondo at 21:30 25.07. Andromeda Turre Quintet at 21:30 28.07. Saskia Laroo Project at 21:30 04.08. Marcelo Godoy & Nelson Latif at 21:30 Q Tickets 50kn and available at the box office.

06.07 Wednesday - 13.07 Wednesday

The 6th Garden Festival - Back to our roots

Petrčane (near Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 36 47 39, www. thegardenfestival.eu/hr/. Petrčane is a beautiful little fishing village. It’s 900 years old with  pine forests, old cottages and villas on the sea front. When summer hits, the Garden Festival attracts 1000’s and tickets are limited. The line-up is huge with DJ’s from all over the world; the festival runs for  8 days and nights, it includes the Argonaughty boat cruise which is a great party voyage out over the open sea by day and at night in particular, the entire place is a buzz. You cannot miss this amazing experience. Visit www.thegardenfestival.eu/en/ for all info, including DJ’s and stages.

23.06 Thursday - 25.06 Saturday

UB 40

08.07 Friday - 11.08 Thursday

27.07 Wednesday - 28.07 Thursday

The 51st Musical Evenings in St Donatus’s

Jazz and Wine Days

B-3, St Donatus’s Church, St. Anastasia’s Cathedral, St. Francis’ Church, Forum (Croatian National Theatre Zadar, Široka ulica 8), tel. (+385-23) 31 45 52, www. donat-festival.hr. If you enjoy the ambience of music within a holy setting, then this international music festival which combines music and beautiful old church architecture will delight you. The event will host numerous local ensembles and solo artists as well as renowned performers of chamber music from abroad. It’s considered one of the most important cultural events on the Zadar calendar. Q Box office Open 11:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 19:00. Sat 11:00 - 13:00.  Sundays only at the concert venues. Tickets 40 - 80kn available at the box office.

20.07 Wednesday

Adria Air Race Zadar

Riva. Top Gun eat your heart out as Zadar is home to this multiple aircraft competition where the rules are oh soooo stringent. Competitors compete against the clock and are judged on performance. From loops and rolls, the manoeuvres are breathtaking. If you missed the last Air Race in Dubai, then descend towards Zadar for a heavenly thrill.

23.07 Saturday

Millenium Jump

B/C-4, Obala Petra Krešimira IV, Riva. When in Zadar do as the Zadrani do! And the majority of locals will all be here for this growing event which is being held for the fourth year in a row. It’s the Millennium Jump where over 1500 people form a joint line and on the word ‘go’ jump into the water forming a domino effect. It looks spectacular from the air! The line ranges from the Sea Organ through to the Faculty of Humanities and Social Science.

24.07 Sunday - 27.07 Wednesday

The 1st Jadera Urban Music Fest

Feel Free Festival

D-3, Perivoj kraljice Jelene Madijevke i Park Kapetanski. Three days of home grown talent is what this event is all about. The opening is reserved for the finals of the Zadar guitar playing contest followed by legendary punk/rock party animals Psihomodo Pop. The second day brings In Ruff and Go Mars from Osijek, Postolar Tripper, Kawasaki 3p and the almighty rock larrikins Let 3. The icing on the cake is on day 3 with bands E.N.D., Sexymotherfuckers, the Dubioza kolektiv and Partibrejkers.

Aquarius Zrće, Novalja, www.aquarius.hr/zrce/en/. Dutch dynamo Laidback Luke takes the spotlight with his electro-house rhythms and does everything to make the audience move to his blockbuster beats. Fellow countryman DJ Chuckie whose hit ‘Let the Bass kick in Miami’ returns after his mesmerizing performance last year. Avicii from Sweden may be the baby of the group but this emerging talent has already worked with David Guetta and Roger Sanchez, electro and house are his forte. Q Tickets 150kn.

24.06 Friday - 02.09 Friday

Feštice Zadar returns to the past on Fridays, organising mini festivals, or feštice, to bring the original spirit of Dalmatia to the week’s

Saljski užanci, Jure Mišković

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A-3, Arsenal, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 20. What a complimentary blend as visitors can sample the vast range of local wines amidst some soothing jazz tunes. The ZZ Quartet (Simone Zanchini from Italy plays the accordion with Croatian Ratko Zjača, a jazz guitarist who has played with the likes of Randy Brecker and Benny Bailey) will perform at the opening and the second day will see bossa nova group the Dino Rangel Trio.

28.07 Thursday - 29.07 Friday

KalelargArt A street ar t festival that includes dance and theatre performances, blues and jazz concerts, fine art, monodramas, street acrobats, jugglers and magicians. This is where art is taken to the people; it is held across a range of city locations and at various times from dusk till dawn.

01.08 Monday - 03.08 Wednesday

Beat the Heat

Aquarius Zrće, Novalja, www.aquarius.hr/zrce/en/. Another smashing festival with three world class DJ’s. Dutchman Dash Berlin opens the festival with his progressivetrance mixes, his hit singles are, ‘Till the Sky Falls Down’ and ‘Man on the Run’. Benny Benassi, the Italian electro/house DJ will whet your appetites as he spins the tables on day 2 whilst Sander Van Doorn blasts the colossal speakers at Zrče with his fusion of trance and house for the finale. Show starts at 22:00. Q Tickets 150,00kn.

06.08 Saturday

The traditional Fishermen’s Čeprljandska fiesta Ugljan, Island Ugljan. When on the island of Ugljan, do as the Ugljani do! They sure know how to put on a feast and this traditional event is rich in music, sporting contests, and culinary presentations of Dalmatian and island specialties. Just as a note, the town of Ugljan, which is the biggest on the island of Ugljan, is famous for having the most hours of sunshine in the Zadar Aquatorium. So let it shine!

06.08 Saturday - 13.08 Saturday

15th International Festival of Contemporary Theatre The City Forum, St. Donatus’ Church, St Dominic’s Church. This is the meaning of “Zadar snova”, a rather more avant-garde cultural festival, held for the eighth time between 6-13 August. Expect modern dance, new film, exhibitions and workshops in comic strips, theatre, humanitarian events, music and drum’n’bass DJs and more. Unmissable!

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Culture & Events

Culture & Events floating markets selling the best tuna and sardines from the famous fishermen of Kali (Ugljan), clams from Pašman and mussels from Novigrad. Rustic, temporary konobas serve everything from šokol from Nin to figs, cheese, rakija and traditional cooking. If you don’t have the chance to travel to Zadar’s outlying towns and islands to sample the folklore of the region, much of it will be showcased here. A memorable event.

Theatres Croatian Theatre House (Kazališna kuća Zadar) C-3, Široka ulica 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 45 86,

hkk-zd@zd.t-com.hr, www.hkk-zadar.hr. Zadar Puppet Theatre E-2, Obala kralja Tomislava bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 27 54.

13.08 Saturday - 13.08 Saturday

Papaya Day&Night Summer Festival

Saskie Laroo, photo by Željko Karavida, Croatian National Theatre Zadar

06.08 Saturday - 12.08 Friday

2nd Starigrad Paklenica Film Festival

Starigrad, tel. (+385-23) 369 18 73, info@spff.hr, www.spff.hr. This serene old coastal town turns musical by paying tribute to both Croatian and world musical greats through film documentaries. The festival presents local and world productions showing musical icons in a different light, through biographies or whilst at work creating their music. What’s more, the town turns into a stage with matinees and concerts held across various town locations.

06.08 Saturday

Moon & Rocks Festival

Novalja Stadium, http://moonnrocks.com/. What a lineup on Pag? Tino Maas takes the stage with his progressive house and trance mania juxtaposed by some techno roar. He has mixed for Fat Boy Slim and Madonna amongst others. Infected Mushroom debut in Croatia and come from Israel, they play psychedelic trance and are known for their explosive shows with elements of rock for that element of surprise. Home grown DJ’s Go Cut and Ludvig are associated with ‘Astralis’, a famous club in Zagreb, they have toured the world and blend electro, house and progressive sounds in their own respective ways. Show starts at 17:00. Q Tickets 99.00kn. Miljenko Domijan, Terra Toscana

Galleries Arsenal A-3, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38

20, info@arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar. com. Q June 13 - September 15 Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 -01:00. City Library Stjepana Radića 11b, tel. (+385-23) 30 11 03. QOpen 08:00 - 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Admission 5 - 10kn. Knight’s Palace D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića bb. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 10kn. Terre Verte B-3, Mate Karamana 10, tel. (+38523) 25 00 40. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.

The Captain’s Tower Gallery (Kapetanova kula) D-3, Trg pet bunara bb. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00,

18:00 - 20:00. Sun Closed.

Zadar In Your Pocket

06.08 Saturday - 07.08 Sunday

Saljski užanci

Sali, Dugi otok. As tradition stands, you will be invited by a band of young musicians dressed in ceremonial outfits who march through the town playing a horn type instrument. And that’s when the fun begins; donkey races, klape (acapella singers), Croatian musicians, folk ensembles and local food. This bonanza is held in Sali on the island Dugi otok.

Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag. Papaya is Croatia’s counterpart to Ibiza and is one of the best open air clubs in Europe. It is set on the island of Pag, Novalja, on the beautiful beach Zrće. During the day, enjoy the most popular dance beach parties which continue into the night under the starry sky. Special festival themes add to the flavour as some of the hottest names in world electronic music pump their endless tunes. Brace yourselves as the outstanding line-up says it all… 13 - 16.07 Papaya Day & Night Summer Festival 28 - 30.07 Axe After Beach Festival 11 - 13.08 MTV Mag Festival Q Tickets at www.eventim.hr.

23.08 Tuesday - 28.08 Sunday

The 2nd Film Forum Festival

Forum (B-3), City Library (L-4), Puppet Theatre (D-3),Riva (A-4), The Museum of Ancient Glass (D-2), Five Wells Square (D-3), tel. (+385) 99 413 43 59, office@ filmforumzadar.com, http://www.filmforumzadar.com/ en/the-player/. In partnership with the Producers Network at the ‘Marche du Film’ in Cannes, this event conjugates over 500 world producers who kindle international film coproductions. This year features European co-productions and documentaries, a reminiscent section named ‘Classics on the Adriatic’ and more. We just might meet the new Spielberg here?

Workshops 16.07 Saturday - 22.07 Friday

The 10th Photo Workshop in Sestrunj

w w w.robertmarnika.com. Learn the be all and end all of photography on the island of Sestrunj, its tranquil surroundings are perfect to enhance your skills in capturing digital images, varying techniques, photo-shop, outdoor and underwater shooting, plus more. Be quick to apply as there are two, seven day workshops. BYO digital camera and notebook (if possible)!

Art Deco in Croatia Th e exhibition “Ar t Deco in Croatia in the Interwar Period” at the Museum of Arts and Crafts in Zagreb has been so well received both at home and abroad that it has been extended until 28 August 2011. This gives tourists visiting Zagreb over the summer the chance to see one of the most popular exhibitions here in recent years, while students and art lovers can still arrange their trip to Zagreb to visit the exhibition.

Art Deco, Falko, By the end of May 2011 more Perfume Bottle than 45,000 people had visited the exhibition. You can see over 750 art works including paintings, graphics, sculpture and applied arts featuring fashion and furniture d esi gn an d more. I t has been written about by France’s Le Figaro and received extensive radio coverage in the Spanish-speaking world as evidence that the “roaring twenties” was ali ve an d ki cki n g i n Art Deco, Jelena Babić, Bowl Croatia too. You can watch informative presentations on the Art Deco period on Wednesdays; while on Thursdays there is live music in the spirit of 20s cabaret, and the museum is open until 22:00. On Saturdays and Sundays there are workshops for children. Everyone will enjoy the chance to buy replicas and other souvenirs, a catalogue, a DVD or an audio guide. Art Deco, Shoes Info at (+385-23) 488 21 11, (+385-23) 488 21 25, www.muo.hr.

12.08 Friday - 14.08 Sunday

Stop Making Sense Festival

The Garden Punta Radman, Petčrane (near Zadar), info@stopmakingsense.eu, www.sms-2010.com. Top notch DJs and bands mixing genres from jazz, folk and Latin to house and techno via reggae, dubstep and electro. What an ideal combination of sun, sea and entertainment! And did someone say that the festival has its own private beach? Indeed! Go for a splash between acts or order drinks at the Tiki Bar. Starts at noon and runs through to 6am. Dance your senses away! Q Admission 200 - 400kn.

13.08 Saturday

Full Moon Festival

B/C-4, Riva. On the night of the full moon in high summer, the Riva is lit by torch and candlelight. Boats are turned into

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Photo Workshop in Sestrunj

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Art Deco, Armchair, Srećko Sabljak

Summer 2011

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Where to stay

Where to stay

Upmarket

Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23)

33 75 70, fax (+385-23) 33 43 36, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villa-hresc.hr. On the coast road to Puntamika, a beautiful Italian villa renovated to create a delightful hotel. Modern, airy rooms; a superb restaurant and a pool where you can relax amid greenery and drink in the view of the Old Town nearby. Condos with kitchenettes sleep two to four. Prices are per room with breakfast. Q9 rooms (3 doubles €100 - 120, 6 suites €130 - 220). PALGKC hhh Villa Nico F-3, Krešimirova obala 138, Diklo, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 98, fax (+385-23) 33 19 60, nico. moric@villanico.t-com.hr, www.hotel-villanico.com. Right on the seafront in the beach neighbourhood of Diklo a few kilometres west of the Old Town. All rooms have king size beds, satellite TV and mini bar. There’s a fitness centre and garage. Prices are for the room plus breakfast. Oh, and it’s pink! Q25 rooms (25 singles 400 - 550kn, 25 doubles 550 - 725kn). PALGBK hhh

Bastion B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13, tel.

(+385-23) 49 49 50, fax (+385-23) 49 49 51, info@ hotel-bastion.hr, www.hotel-bastion.hr. If you’re seeking accommodation in the historical centre of the city, look no further. Built on 13th century castle ruins, this hotel is equipped with a conference room, restaurant and wellness centre. Each room has a mini-bar for nibbles and the internet at your feet. The Garden Club is situated right beneath the hotel itself. Q28 rooms (23 singles €179, 23 doubles €219, 3 suites €337, 1 President apartment €420, 1 Junior Suite €298). PJHAFLGBKD hhhh Falkensteiner Hotel Adriana F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 20 63 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.com, www.falkensteiner.com. A “lifestyle hotel”, once you’ve seen it, you’ll want to buy into it. The ultimate in comfort and tasteful design, with a surrounding park and pool area which are a sight for sore eyes, day or night. Prices are per person full board. Q48 rooms (48 Junior Suites €90 - 120). PHAFEGBKDC hhhh Falkensteiner Club Funimation Borik F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 20 61 00, fax (+38523) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@falkensteiner.com, www.falkensteiner.com. A well-packaged hotel with modern lines and airy interiors, aimed squarely at families with children. The highlight is the 1000m2 aqua park, plus the galaxy of sports, activites and excursions. Family rooms can accommodate up to three children. Prices are per person per day, all-inclusive and for Luxury Suite available upon request. Q258 rooms (54 doubles €102 - 136, 88 Mini Family €113 149, 53 Family Royal €121 - 160, 59 Family Suite €138 - 175, 4 Luxury Suite). PTHAUFEBKDC hhhh Kolovare N-6, Bože Peričića 14, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 17/(+385-23) 20 32 00, fax (+385-23) 21 30 79, hotel. kolovare@hoteli-zadar.hr, www.hotel-kolovare.com. The closest hotel to the Old Town recently got a facelift. Most rooms face an open air swimming pool and the beach at Kolovare, a leafy neighbourhood of well-to-do villas. Prices are per room per night, including breakfast. Q203 rooms (27 singles 757 - 832kn, 128 doubles 1054 - 1334kn, 36 triples 1477 - 1869kn, 12 suites 1829 - 2159kn). PTJHAUGBKC hhhh

Zadar.inyourpocket.com Finding a place to stay couldn’t be simpler than with Zadar In Your Pocket and Booking.com. Simply surf our conveniently categorized casas, check the reliably updated info on facilities, ambience and price… click the button and hey presto! You’re through to our reservations site complete with guest reviews. Then read which spot is hot to trot, and off you go!

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

6 Animal friendly

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Zadar In Your Pocket

Hostels

Mid-range Donat F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23)

20 65 00, fax (+385-23) 55 56 80, reservations.borik@ falkensteiner.com, www.falkensteiner.com. Part of the Borik complex, Hotel Donat has full congress facilities, and you’re spoilt for choice for leisure and entertainment options. Prices are per person all-inclusive. Q240 rooms (36 singles €57 - 75, 126 doubles €51 - 68, 34 triples €51 - 68, 44 Family Rooms €67 - 73). PTHAEGBKC hhh Hotel Marinko G-4, Poljski put 1, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 00/(+385-) 098 46 50 45, fax (+385-23) 33 36 16, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. A rather colourful new villastyle building, close to all the Borik amenities. All rooms are comfortable and air-conditioned, and have good balconies, although the view of the local Konzum may not be quite what you were hoping for. Prices include breakfast. Q21 rooms (17 doubles €70, 4 triples €80). PALBK hhh Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 00, fax (+385-23) 33 75 28, info@hotelmediteranzd.hr, www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A modern building close to the Borik complex and beaches. It’s a pleasant, clean, family-owned place with a good restaurant. Most rooms have a balcony and sea view. Rooms with mini bar and airconditioning available. Prices are per room with breakfast. Q30 rooms (30 singles 470 - 620kn, 30 doubles 570 720kn). PTALBK hhh Porto R-2, Nikole Jurišića 2, tel. (+385-23) 29 23 00, fax (+385-23) 29 23 33, hotel.porto@zd.t-com.hr, www.hotel-porto.hr. Recently opened, this hotel about 15 minutes’ drive from the centre offers reasonable prices, clean bright rooms, and decent food. It’s on the crossroads heading towards the airport and the Split highway, so it’s ideal for business travelers. Prices are per person per day. Q103 rooms (8 singles €58 - 64, 38 doubles €41 - 44, 51 triples €32 - 35, 6 apartments €32 - 35). PHALGBK hhh

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Drunken Monkey Hostel P-6, Jure Kastriotića Skenderbega 21, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 06/(+385-) 099 415 73 50, drunkenmonkeyhostel@gmail.com, www. drunkenmonkeyhostel.com. Hostel is ideal for backpackers. It is situated at the Arbanasi district close to the Bus Station and Kolovare Beach, and the old town is only a 20-25 minute walk away. The hostel has got all the necessary facilities including kitchen, individual rooms and a small bar, as well as laundry service. Q 38 dorm beds, 200 - 500kn per person. PJCW Zadar Youth Hostel G-5, Obala kneza Trpimira 76, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 45, fax (+385-23) 33 11 90, zadar@ hfhs.hr, www.hfhs.hr. Great news - one of the large pavilions in Zadar’s youth hostel complex has been fully renovated. Before now, the hostel was best avoided. If you’re lucky enough to book into the new place, you’ll pay a little extra. Sports facilities and restaurant, friendly and helpful staff. Prices are per person for bed and breakfast. Rooms for between 2 and 8 people. Q 298 dorm beds, 21 - 35€ per person. HUGBKW

Camping Autokamp Planik Ražanac, tel. (+385-23) 65 14 31/

(+385-) 098 27 21 87, planik@planik.hr, www.planik. hr. Ražanac is a village just before the bridge to Pag, with historic ruins nearby. The camp is excellent, with clean sand and shingle beaches. They offer excurisions, including rafting on the Zrmanja river as well as riding, yoga, aqua aerobics and activities for the kiddywinks. Accomodation tax €0,55 - 0,85. Q Person / per day €2 - 5, Tent €2 - 5, Car €2 - 4, Camping trailer €2 - 5. Borik F-3, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel./fax (+385-23) 33 20 74, info@campingborik.com, www. campingborik.com. The Borik hotel complex is set in pine woods by a good beach; the campsite is pleasant and wellequipped. A few minutes’ bus ride from the centre - or the coastal stroll is far from unpleasant. Shops, restaurants, and bars nearby.  Q Person / per day €3 - 7, Pitch €6 - 17, Parking €4 - 6, Accomodation tax €0,5 - 1. AK

Out of town Adriatic Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 29 07 00, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. Fully renovated, the Adriatic is a pleasant lemon-yellow building with attractive design within and novel attractions such as a luscious lavender bed bar. zadar.inyourpocket.com

Close to the heart of Biograd and the town’s excellent beach, the range of sports and entertainment is baffling! Prices are per person including breakfast. Q105 rooms (5 singles €77 - 128, 95 doubles €45 - 75, 5 apartments €75 - 125). PTJHAFLEBKDC hhh Apartments Margarita Maris Put primorja 131, Sv. Filip i Jakov, tel. (+385-23) 29 24 00, fax (+385-23) 38 86 19, margarita-maris@zd.t-com.hr, www.vud.hr. This lively little town south of Zadar has great beaches, and the apartment compound consists of pleasantly clean and simple air-conditioned bungalows. Sporting facilities abound. Prices are per person and include breakfast, half board is also available. Extra beds and cots can be added. Q90 rooms (90 apartments 207 - 412kn). PHALBK hhh Bolero Ivana Meštrovića 1, Biograd n/m, tel. (+38523) 38 68 88, fax (+385-23) 38 68 80, recepcija@ hotel-bolero.hr, www.hotel-bolero.hr. In a purpose-built, recently renovated building, Hotel Bolero offers cool and airy accommodation, a super terrace, a restaurant and saunas. Double rooms can accommodate three people, and apartments a maximum of six. Prices are per room, breakfast included. Q76 rooms (3 singles €60 - 90, 70 doubles €80 110, 3 quads €110 - 160). PTALBKD hhh Ilirija Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd na moru, tel. (+385-23) 39 65 55, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. Set in a park area with a marina and excellent Blue Flag beach in front. The first two floors have been renovated and offer excellent, stylish accommodation. The remaining floors are a little cheaper. Ample sports facilities close to the centre of Biograd. Prices per person including breakfast. Pets welcome on request. Q168 rooms (160 singles €80 - 137, 160 doubles €47 - 81, 8 apartments €75 - 125). PTJHARFLEBKDC hhhh

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Restaurants

Where to stay pine-shaded garden by the sea, where you can swing yourself to sleep in a hammock. Apartments can accommodate up to five; all have kitchenettes and balconies overlooking the sea. Q12 rooms (3 Studio €60 - 120, 3 1-Bedroom €75 - 135, 3 2-Bedroom €85 - 160, 3 Large 2 Bedrooms €90 - 185). PJA6LGBC hhh Zaton Holiday Resort Dražnikova ulica 76, Nin - Zaton, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 11, fax (+385-23) 26 42 26, sales. dept@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. Perfect for family holidays, an attractively planted apartment village and excellent campsite placed to take advantage of the sandy, shallow Bay of Zaton. Zaton has a huge array of activities, including water sports, horse riding, swimming pools, bars, restaurants, shops and a popular nightclub. Q590 rooms (590 apartments €30 248). PTA6UFLEBKCS hhhh

Islands

Kornati Tina Ujevića 7, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 35 83 33, fax (+385-23) 38 30 08, sales@ilirijabiograd. com, www.ilirijabiograd.com. The Kornati is simple, clean, comfortable and has a great location in a green spot near the old part of Biograd and overlooking its own marina. It shares the facilities of its sister hotels, the Ilirija and the Adriatic - all a sports freak could ever dream of. Prices per person with breakfast. Q 106 rooms (102 singles €77 - 137, 102 doubles €45 - 81, 4 apartments €70 - 115). PTJHARFLEBKDC hhhh Mare Nostrum Sv. Petar 375b, tel. (+385-23) 39 14 20, fax (+385-23) 39 14 21, info@marenostrum-hr.com, www.marenostrum-hr.com. A new hotel in lavender-filled gardens right on the beach at Sveti Petar, a small town between Zadar and Biograd. Delightful, modern airy rooms, all with air conditioning, satellite TV and great balconies with sea views. Friendly staff. Prices include breakfast. Q14 rooms (14 doubles €56 - 100). PALBK hhh Pinija Petrčane bb, tel. (+385-23) 20 25 00, fax (+38523) 36 41 31, info@hotel-pinija.hr, www.hotel-pinija.hr. A renovated hotel complex on its a pine-covered peninsula 10km from Zadar. Beaches with showers, indoor pool and sauna, gym, beauty centre, conference facilities, cafes and restaurants (including the popular Konoba Mareta), sports and excursions. Prices per person half board. 30% supplement for stays under 3 nights. Q340 rooms (24 singles €54 - 84, 216 doubles €48 - 74, 63 triples €48 74, 10 apartments €87 - 296, 27 Family Rooms €48 - 74). PTJHAUFBKDC hhhh Villa Nela Punta Radman, Put 7, Petrčane, tel. (+38523) 36 46 60, fax (+385-23) 36 46 70, info@velcektours.com, www.velcek-tours.com. A new villa with clean and airy apartments, and a sea-water pool in the delightful Zadar In Your Pocket

Agava Božava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12 91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr, www. hoteli-bozava.hr. Set amongst pine trees in an idyllic island village, with a new swimming pool, sauna, jaccuzi, massage, fitness centre, tennis and diving in Božava’s famous clear waters. Recently refurbished, with accommodation in apartments with kitchenettes. Prices are per person with breakfast, based on two people sharing. Q18 rooms (18 Family Rooms €43 - 77). PHA6FKDC hhh Korinjak Veli Iž, Iž Island, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 64, fax (+385-23) 27 72 48, info@korinjak.hr, www.korinjak. hr. Hotel Korinjak runs summer courses under the umbrella programme “Soul Vacations”. Learn to understand yourself, reduce stress, and more... Also yoga courses. A vegetarian menu and relaxing activities complement the courses. Prices are per person per day. Q78 rooms (15 singles 317 - 370kn, 63 doubles 225 - 375kn). HALGBK hh Lavanda Božava bb, Dugi Otok, tel. (+385-23) 29 12 91, fax (+385-23) 37 76 82, sales@hoteli-bozava.hr, www.hoteli-bozava.hr. Hotel Lavanda has recently been fully refurbished. All rooms have balconies with a sea view. Božava is perfect if you’re looking for peace and quiet in pristine surroundings, and especially for diving enthusiasts. You can use the facilities of the Agava - see above. Prices are per person with breakfast. Q88 rooms (88 doubles €43 - 77). PA6FBKDC hhh

Croatian These restaurants usually combine a choice of Dalmatian specialities and seafood with cuisine from inland Croatia, which also forms part of the Dalmatian diet. Albin H-3, Put Dikla 47, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 37, albin1@ zd.t-com.hr, www.albin.hr. A well-known restaurant in a small three star hotel, their fish soup is legendary, and they use their own amazing home-made olive oil. They also have premises in Lukoran on the island of Ugljan. QOpen 15:00 23:00. (60 - 150kn). LNB Bruschetta C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 12, tel. (+38523) 31 29 15. The name says it all! The emphasis here is ‘homemade’ and with quality products from the local Zadar region on hand, the range of food is varied from several types of bruschetta, to fish and meat carpaccio, as well as different types of pizza and pasta. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 110kn). PJABW Dva ribara C-3, Blaža Jurjeva 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 45, info@restorani-zadar.hr, www.restorani-zadar.hr. A great, shaded terrace by the side of the cheery yellow courthouse, with a good selection of Dalmatian and Croatian classics as well as pizzas. Reasonable prices - a good place for lunch to break up a day’s sightseeing. It’s a hard life!! QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (45 - 90kn). PAGBC Kaštel B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna 13 (Bastion hotel), tel. (+385-23) 49 49 50. Located in the 13th century Venetian Kaštel (Hotel Bastion) in the old Zadar centre, the menu oozes Dalmatian cuisine and creative modern culinary trends. Try the fresh fish, homemade bread and pasta filled with various creams. If you want local gastronomy, look no further! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (60 190kn). PALGBXW Kornat B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 01. Delightfully modern and refined with a classy offering of inland and Dalmatian specialities and a great wine list, this place really is in a class of its own in the Old Town. Inventive, top quality cuisine - we were delighted with the black risotto. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (75 - 160kn). PJAGBX Malo misto C-3, Jurja Dalmatinca - Matejeva 3, tel. (+385-23) 30 18 31, http://malo-misto.com. The “little place” is a pleasant bar and garden roštilj (grill), lively and popular. Locals come to enjoy the food, atmosphere and listen to Croatian music. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (40 - 150kn). PNBX Marinero F-3, Krešimirova obala 86, tel. (+385-23) 33 36 95. Pizzas and pasta with that Mediterranean feel, there’s a wide food selection and we recommend the seafood cuisine - fresh and well prepared. It’s a place to wind down at the end of a day of sightseeing. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 110kn). PLNB Marinko G-4, Poljski put 1, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 00/(+385-) 098 46 50 45, hotelkodmarinka@net.hr. Inside the new apart-hotel, an a’ la carte restaurant serving Croatian and Dalmatian dishes, all local produce. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 300kn). PAB

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P E T G O R

Air conditioning Live music Child friendly Non-smoking areas Casino Internet

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Credit cards accepted Take away Facilities for the disabled Guarded parking Outside seating Animal friendly

Marko Polo B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 24, tel. (+385-23)

23 57 86, restoran-marko-polo@zd.htnet.hr. An alarming orange coloured building near the city marina with a pleasant, green terrace full of statues. If your sensibilities are strong enough to withstand that onslaught, the cooking is solid in a family style, offering Dalmatian and inland specialities and a charcoal grill. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. (80 - 150kn). PAB Mediteran G-2, Matije Gupca 19, (Hotel Mediteran) Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 11 88, info@hotelmediteranzd.hr, www.hotelmediteran-zd.hr. A good restaurant in the comfortable three star hotel. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 110kn). PAGBXW Mijo G-3, Tina Ujevića 28, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 33 27 28. Comfortable space with an extensive menu comprising, apart from Dalmatian and Croatian food, pizza, pasta, and a couple of specialities not common elsewhere: pašticada (beef cooked in dessert wine with dried fruit, a Dalmatian recipe) and mučkalica (a Bosnian pork stew with wine and vegetables). Q Open 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 300kn). PAGBX Pet Bunara D-3, Trg Pet bunara bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 40 10, info@petbunara.hr, www.petbunara.hr. The restaurant has an unusual offering of risotto-like dishes made with barley instead of rice, a nutritious alternative, and home-made pasta. They also have beef, pork tuna and turkey steaks, lamb cutlets and classic fish dishes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (55 - 180kn). PAGBX Stipe C-3, Plemića Borelli 5a, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 75. A fairly standard grill restaurant and pizzeria. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (40 - 80kn). PNGBX Zadar C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, tel. (+38523) 21 21 82. In the Hotel Zagreb building on the Riva, a simple restaurant with the nicest terrace in town. Dalmatian music and a pleasant atmosphere. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (50 - 100kn). NB Zadar - Jadera C-2, Brne Krnarutića 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 59, jadera@zd.htnet.hr, www.jadera.hr. A large, busy restaurant by St Chrysogonus’ Church with a wide choice of local and international meat and fish dishes. Perfectly respectable food at decent prices. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (65 - 90kn). PJAGBX Zlatni vrtić C-3, Ul. plemića Borelli 12, tel. (+385-23) 21 40 76. The “little golden garden” as its name translates, is a family restaurant with charcoal grill and a pleasant courtyard terrace. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 100kn). NB

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Restaurants Breakfast Croccante Široka ulica 14, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 53,

www.croccante.hr. When the tummy’s rumbling and you are after a top-notch breakfast to get your day going, hop on down to Croccante which is known for its fresh croissants and scrumptious toast. Such places for brekky are few and far between apart from the hotels that serve their guests. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. (10 - 80kn). Forum C-3, Madievaca 2, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 40. Difficult to find but do not let that deter you. This small bakery type eatery is a snack haven and good for on the go. We recommend the tasty quiche, foccacia bread and yummy bread rolls. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (3 - 40kn). NB

Chinese Shanghai House H-3, Put Dikla 70, tel. (+385-23) 33

23 10/(+385-) 095 539 81 58, shanghai.restoran@ gmail.com. The décor, while predictable, creates a hospitable atmosphere that is complemented by the authentic cuisine from the land of emperors. We recommend the signature duck dishes which have earned their flavoursome reputation and for all the right reasons. Take out is available if you would like to dabble chopsticks whilst gazing at the sunset. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (35 - 115kn). PNGB

Fast food Gricko L-4, Franje Tuđmana 54, tel. (+385-23) 30 50 87. There is an indigenous fast food which renders the hamburger utterly irrelevant in Croatia. Ćevapi are little sticks of minced meat and spices, grilled or fried, and for the true carnivore are something like heaven. They’re usually served in a bun called a lepinja, which the vendor thoughtfully dips into hot fat before serving. Mmmmm! In Voštarnica, a clean and pleasant little place to munch decent ćevapi. Q 09:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (19 - 30kn). PNB Hajduk C-3, Knezova Š.Bribirskih 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 81. Unarguably the best burek (meat or cheese filo pastry pie) in town. We highly recommend you try it Croatian style with a refreshing pot of plain yogurt, but if that doesn’t grab you, they serve burgers, sandwiches, toasties and mini pizzas too. Hajduk, by the way, means “brigand” or “bandit”, and is also the name of the Split football team, but don’t mention that here if you like having legs. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (10 - 35kn). PNGB Nado D-3, Kovačka 2, tel. (+385-23) 30 55 55. Many locals swear Nado has the tastiest pizza in the centre of Zadar. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (33 - 70kn). Obelix G-2, A.G.Matoša 6, Borik. Good warm sandwiches (popular round here, try them!) and the usual fast food stuff. With late opening hours, it’s a good place to pick up a bite if you’re drinking in Borik or on your way home after a night out

A sweet full stop The Czechs say that every meal needs a sweet full stop – just a little something to round everything off nicely. Even though you’re stuffed to the, er, gills with fish (sorry) and other goodies, perhaps you can find room for a refreshing slice of Anastasia’s dream or Rožata, a recipe from Dubrovnik similar to crčme caramel. Melons and peaches are at their best at this time of year, as are figs, which can be steeped in wine and honey, or served dried with almonds. In restaurants offering ispod peke style food, you may be able to find pancakes cooked in this way, and stuffed with sweet curd cheese and raisins.

Zadar In Your Pocket

Restaurants in town. Located next to Obelix, Terra cafe is inimitable for its summer parties and fried sardines which the owner gives to passer bys for free. The program is on Wednesdays from 21:00 - 01:00. QOpen 07:00 - 01:30. (8 - 32kn).

Italian Trattoria Canzona C-3, Stomorice 8, tel. (+385-23) 21 20 81/(+385-) 098 70 68 62. A traditional pizzeria with a very respectable reputation. The same outfit as the Zagreb restaurant of the same name. Those who know that one will be reassured it’s a good bet. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). PJNGBX

Konoba Konobas are the best places to experience typical Dalmatian cuisine. They were once the places where fishermen hung out and got someone else to cook their catch for them. Martinac B-3, Aleksandra Paravije 7, tel. (+385-) 091 579 98 83, konobamartinac@net.hr. An antique interior and flower-filled courtyard complemented by family cuisine of a very high standard. We recommend the veal with tuna and caper sauce. For dessert, try Rožata (a speciality from Dubrovnik, something like crème caramel). QOpen 10:00 24:00. (50 - 110kn). JNB Na po ure D-3, Špire Brusine 8, tel. (+385-23) 31 20 04. Tiny and mellow, inventively designed using natural stone (check out the downstairs section). However, the food is definitely traditional konoba style. Shark is their speciality, and they do grilled fish and meats, plus cooked meals at reasonable prices, including pašticada beef stew. Wine sold from the barrel. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 65kn). PA6B Rafaelo H-3, Ulica kneza Trpimira 50, tel. (+385-23) 33 53 49. On Put Dikla, the road to Borik. It’s got a rather special menu with loads of top quality steaks prepared au naturel on a charcoal grill, or stuffed with things like scampi. Lamb, veal and fish cooked ispod peke are on offer as well. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. (50 - 110kn). PLNGBX Skoblar D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 32 36. Right next to Trg pet bunara, this konoba happens to be the oldest in the old city. Typical stone interior, they serve up the usual fish and meats specializing in foods cooked under an iron bell. Also a nice selection of Croatian and foreign wines. Live music most weekends too. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn). PJAGBX Stomorica C-3, Stomorica 12, tel. (+385-23) 31 59 46. Named after the ruins of a little church, this is one of the oldest konobas in Zadar which used to offer hearty and healthy sardines to hungry patrons. Today it’s a beautiful place to eat out:still traditional in style, the menu has been expanded to include most classic seafood dishes. The New York Times rightly gives Stomorica a big thumbs up for its good portions, decent prices and singing locals. A Zadar favourite for generations. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 70kn). PNGBX Trata B-3, Jerolima Vidulića 5, tel. (+385-) 095 809 73 91/(+385-23) 25 03 19, konobatrata@gmail.com. This konoba is set a sheltered garden with the foundations of a 2nd century Roman temple as its centrepiece. The menu is centred on ancient Dalmatian recipes, mainly fish. “Trata” was the word for a big net used for communal fishing in old times. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (60 - 150kn). NGBX Tu mi je lipo D-3, Rivnica bb, tel. (+385-23) 31 22 26/ (+385-) 091 121 29 56, www.tu-mi-je-lipo.hr. One of our readers wrote in and told us that “if you’re looking for a

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restaurant of true culinary art and culture, then you can’t go wrong with Tu mi je lipo”, so we decided it was high time we tested it out. The menu sticks obstinately to a basic repertoire of grilled meats, grilled fish, grilled squid and grilled scampi, but what emerges from the kitchen is so well executed that it only makes you wish that all restaurants kept it this simple. The place is located in a lovely walled enclosure, so the name (which literally means “I love it here!”) makes perfect sense. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (55 - 400kn). PAGBX Žvelti brabor J-1, Ispod dvorina 6, Bokanjac, tel. (+385-) 098 40 33 22/(+385-23) 32 50 25. A well-kept secret - an old stone house with only five or six tables. All the food and wine is excellent (as are the prices), but those in the know say it’s a good place in Zadar for octopus cooked ispod peke style. Bokanjac is just outside Zadar in the direction of Pag (see a good road map). When you reach the old village of Stari Bokanjac, you’ll see signs for the konoba. You have to order what you want to eat a day in advance, because everything is specially bought and prepared - call in, or phone. Very special. QOpen 20:00 - 24:00. (65 - 100kn). PLNGBX

Lamb The spit roast rules in Croatia. Macho men who would otherwise not be seen dead in a pinny are happy to spend hours lovingly tending rotating piglets. While pork forms the substance of the inland diet, once you get the coast it’s much easier to find lamb, which Dalmatians rave about, because the combination of salt winds, sunshine and strong herbs lends the meat a special flavour. Lamb from nearby Pag Island is especially flavourful. Here are the best places to eat lamb roast on the spit (janjetina na ražnju) in and around Zadar. Sabunjar Jadranska 99, tel. (+385-23) 34 03 55, tomislav.kurta@zd.t-com.hr. Tipped by locals as one of the best places in town for lamb. Take the main road to Split and you’ll see it across the road from hypermarkets Merkur and Getro. QOpen 09:30 - 23:00. (27 - 80kn). PALGBX Tamaris O-2, Zagrebačka 5, tel. (+385-23) 31 87 00, info@tamaris-zadar.com.hr, www.tamaris-zadar.com.hr. A large, modern restaurant in a small three star hotel. Charcoal grilled specialities, including, yes, that holy of holies, roast lamb on the spit, and other Dalmatian food. A wide selection of Croatian wines. Deservedly popular. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn). ALGBX

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Out of town Casa Vecchia Ulica kralja Kolomana 30, Biograd, tel.

(+385-23) 38 32 20. The scents wafting out as you pass by will reel you in for sure. Tucked in the heart of Biograd’s old town in a quiet corner by St Anastasia’s Church, the garden is the main attraction, green and cool with creeping vines, with a clay pizza oven and bright with sunshine. Q Open 15:00 - 23:00. July, August Open 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 45kn). PNGBX Griblja Trg Ruševac, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 37 00, info@konoba-griblja.com, www.konoba-griblja.com. Named after a traditional local farming tool, this two storey old building (a former ruin) has been beautifully restored and the menu oozes tradition. The food is terrific, nicely arranged, fresh ingredients and each plate comes choc a block full, although a tad pricey (pastas from 70 kuna). Great wine selection and extra rooms can cater for private parties. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (55 - 380kn). PAGB Kaleta Ul. pape Ivana Pavla II, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 40 31/(+385-) 091 882 34 37. “Kaleta” means “alley” in Dalmatian dialect, and this 300 year old former prison has a warren of stone passages that lead you to the seating areas. They have a 38 year old Elektrolux fridge which still works, and reckon it’s the 2nd oldest in existence! Great food - try their Pašticada - Dalmatian beef in a rich sauce served with home made gnocci - order a day in advance. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 200kn). PAGB Kod Guste Sukošan bb, Sukošan, tel. (+385-23) 39 33 03, augustin.devic@zd.htnet.hr, www.kod-guste.hr. A very popular place: authentic, with a friendly atmosphere and reasonable prices (reservations are therefore recommended). Try the crni rižoto (risotto with squid ink). QOpen 16:00 23:00. (65 - 350kn). PNG

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Restaurants Konoba Branimir Višeslavov trg 2, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 48 66/(+385-) 091 587 08 39. A wonderful, haciendastyle terrace overlooking the tiny white Church of the Holy Cross in Nin, the foundation stone of Christianity in Croatia. So, it’s fair to say that it is, ahem, blessed with one of the finest views in the country. See the stone fireplace inside made from an altar. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (45 - 90kn). AGB Konoba Grmalj Premuda 10, Premuda Island, tel. (+385-23) 37 66 65, konoba.grmalj@gmail.com. A little terrace near the Krijal bay on the western part of the island. A gorgeous location to try lamb, kid goat or škarpina (fish) ispod peke. People claim that kid goat is a better meat than lamb as it’s not so greasy and has a more delicate flavour. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). NGBX

Cake & Ice Cream Ice cream is a necessary condition for the continuation of the human race in summer. While you can buy the usual packaged ices (Ledo, with its teddy bear logo, is the Croatian brand we’ve known since childhood), don’t be shy to try the homemade stuff in a slastičarnica. The water and milk here is fine, so there should be nothing to upset your tum. Slastičarnice are temples to all things sweet. You can also eat cake and drink coffee, soft drinks or a fitting choice of alcohol. Nik-o-Teen beware: often, you can’t smoke. (These are children-friendly establishments, after all). Probably the most popular cake in Croatia is kremšnita - a thick layer of vanilla cream sandwiched between two layers of light pastry. It’s not too heavy, so perfect if you fancy a sweet little something in hot weather. Danica C-3, Široka ulica 3, tel. (+385-23) 21 10 16. A sparklingly modern cafe and slastičarnica, very popular because of the good selection of cakes from the local factory in Arbanasi. Opposite the National Theatre. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB Donat B-3, Trg Sv.Stošije 4, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 29, info@donatice.hr, www.donatice.hr. Many Zadar folks reckon this to be the best ice cream in town. The cookie dough flavour is a carnival of sinful pleasure. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB Iva C-3, Narodni trg 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 11 21. Good cake and ice cream up for grabs right on Narodni trg. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 01:00. PNGB Luce C-3, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 18, tel. (+38523) 25 05 14. A clean and modern place with a super terrace on the square outside St Chrysogonus’ Church. You can pick up a sandwich, too. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. PNB Miami Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 1, Biograd. Just at the beginning of Biograd’s Riva - the town’s waterside promenade. It’s a great place to linger over one of their home made cakes or their special Kup Miami sundae and watch the passers by. Or call in for an ice cream to accompany your after dinner evening stroll. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGB

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Restaurants Konoba Pece Prilaz Drage 2,Vinjerac, tel. (+385-

23) 27 50 69, anita.greguric@zd.htnet.hr. We heartily recommend Pece as one of the best konobas in the region, with a lovely view from a little hilltop. The homely interior was hand crafted by the owner himself, who also is your chef. He whips up aromatic dishes full of local flavour and with a personal touch: his seafood dishes are true delicacies. To get to the delightful little coastal hamlet of Vinjerac, take the Zagreb road and turn left just before the Maslenica bridge. Book in advance. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00. (150 - 300kn). A6LGBX Na Tale Stjepana Radića 2, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 11 94/(+385-) 098 44 98 57, frano.valentic@zd.t-com.hr, www.ljubica.hr. A pleasant restaurant at the beginning of Pag town’s waterfront promenade, with terrace seating overlooking the sea or in a shady garden. A wide range of Mediterranean food, including pizzas, steaks grilled fish and lamb - the restaurant’s speciality. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (40 - 355kn). PAGBX Tony Kožino II 74a, Kožino, tel. (+385-23) 28 32 99/(+385-) 098 35 79 12. Dalmatian specialities and international food including chateaubriand and steaks cooked on a wood grill. Order in advance and lamb or sucking pig on the spit is yours. A huge menu and friendly multilingual staff. On the forested road out of Kožino (head for Vir). QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (25 - 150kn). PALGBX Vapor Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 54 82/(+385-) 091 544 90 39, frane. jelic@zd.t-com.hr, www.vapor.hr. The kind and helpful staff will help you navigate the menu, which features mainly seafood with a few meat dishes for good measure. A lovely spot on Biograd’s Riva, with a view over the islands. Inside, look out for motifs of life here in times gone by. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn). AGBX Žut ACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park, tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55, www.aci-club.hr. At the Marina, a great place to wind down at the end of a day sailing Kornati. Owner Romano Milutin owns a konoba of the same name nearby. Great seafood and unbelivable lobster. Thorougly recommended! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (80 110kn). AGBX

Pizza Pizza is so ubiquitous it surely must count as a national food in Dalmatia by now. But that’s no bad thing. Pizza is quick, inexpensive - and yummy. Falcon H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 51, tel. (+385-23) 33 22 06, ivica.knezevic2@zd.t-com.hr. Average pizza. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00. (35 - 110kn). PALB Mamma mia H-3, Put Dikla 54, tel. (+385-23) 33 42 46. Located in a pleasant tree-shaded garden on Put Dikla, the road that leads from central Zadar to the Borik resort area, this popular pizzeria is perfectly placed for a quick and economical post-beach feed. Mamma Mia’s pizza toppings are a bit more generous than the thin smears of tomato you get in some other Italian-influenced establishments around town. We ordered a Quattro Stagioni and three out of its four seasons turned out to be pretty tasty. And by the time we got onto the last quarter of the pie we were full anyway. The grilled meat dishes are also worth trying. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (28 - 200kn). PNGB Šime G-2, Matije Gupca 15, Borik, tel. (+385-23 ) 33 48 48. A large, friendly and trendy place, beloved by locals for superb pizza, pasta and salads. Šime is also famed for great pancakes and ice cream. A terrace, plenty of parking and an underground garage to keep your lil’ baby out of the sun. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (30 - 100kn). PLNGBX

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Tri bunara B-3, Trg tri bunara, tel. (+385-23) 25 03 90.

Has the honour of being the first pizzeria in Zadar, having been here in Three Wells Square since the 1920s. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (35 - 70kn). PNB

Seafood Less homey than konobas but good places to try the local catch in a more upscale ambience. Foša D-3, Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 44 21, jadera@jadera.org, www.fosa.hr. One of the best places in the Old Town, not least for its romantic location with a wonderful terrace on the little Foša harbour, this restaurant is well respected among locals for great fish. QOpen 12:00 - 23:30. (70 - 450kn). PJAGBX Lungo Mare J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 23, tel. ( +38523) 33 15 33. Has a fantastic reputation for seafood and home made cheesecake. A great terrace. On the coast road west of the centre, near the Sphinx. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (75 - 330kn). PALGBX Niko G-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 78 88, hotel.niko@hotel-niko.hr, www.hotel-niko. hr. An institution - not only one of the best hotels but also one of the best restaurants in town. It’s a great place to eat seafood. We recommend it for a special treat - but it’s not shockingly expensive. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 170kn). PALG Roko I-3, Put Dikla 74, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 00. A family restaurant in the Borik area, particularly recommended for its fish, which is freshly caught by the owner himself. Huge portions - try the delicious octopus salad or anything seafood. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. (60 - 350kn). PALGBX

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Taverna Diklo F-3, Krešimirova obala 49, tel. (+38523) 33 10 35. This restaurant, pleasantly located by the water’s edge in Diklo, was once considered one of Zadar’s best. Traditional cuisine is solidly executed, and seafood is still their strong point. However, the overall experience, including the service, tells us that true passion is lacking these days. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 350kn). PALB Villa Hrešć I-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 28, tel. (+385-23) 33 75 70, info@villa-hresc.hr, www.villa-hresc.hr. A wonderful restaurant in a wonderful hotel in a wonderful Italian villa, with wonderful food and great surroundings... We need say little more except “try the tuna carpaccio”. Right by the Sphinx on the coast road between Puntamika and the centre. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 150kn). PALGBX

Thai Pearl of Siam G,J-3, Put Dikla 9, tel. (+385-23) 33 77 13, www.pearlofsiam.com.hr. If spicy or the more exotic flavours are your cup of tea, then boy, does this place deliver? The cuisine has Thai food written all over it with a solid array of course dishes. The ambience is very casual, and the place bright, neat and tidy with a little terrace by the pool. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (35 - 100kn). PAGBX

Not to be missed The Gligora Cheese Factory – nestled in the small village of Kolan, on the island of Pag took out major prizes at the World Cheese Championships in Birmingham, 2010. Amongst the 2600 cheese from all around the world, their Paški cheese was proclaimed the best in three categories: sheep cheese, hard cheese and the finest new cheese to enter the world market.

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CAFéS

Restaurants Go Gourmet

The joy of Mediterranean food is its simplicity, and you can’t get much simpler than the humble sardine. A staple diet of poor fishermen’s families for generations, sometimes looked down upon by those who think paying ten times more guarantees ten times more satisfaction, the sardine is beginning to take her rightful place as the queen of the sea. They say there’s no better place to eat sardines than right on the fishing boat. Able seamen rinse them in seawater, dip them in flour, chuck them into a pan of boiling oil, drain and salt them and peel the juicy white flesh off the bone, throwing the remains to the gulls. Try this at home - use plenty of good quality, strong, extra virgin olive oil. Buy bags of fresh sardines outside the fish market. A rather more refined way to eat sardines is grilled in a special wire rack over charcoal (or threaded onto twigs if you’re nimble). Don’t get fussy with them - leave the first side to cook, turn once or twice only, and then coat them in olive oil and salt. Eat with your fingers with hunks of fresh bread, local tomatoes and red wine. When the fešta is in town, you’ll have the opportunity to try sardines at stands throughout the city. And in a good konoba (traditional fisherman’s restaurant), you can try any number of alternative ways to eat these little bundles of goodness: salted, marinated, or eaten cold as a paté or a salad.Dalmatian cuisine consists of a healthy mix of fish, meat and vegetables with lashings of garlic and olive oil. That’s why the locals are so enviably tall, slim and clearskinned. Want some? Here’s the lowdown. Soup usually starts a meal, or treat yourself to pršut (cured ham) or Pag cheese. Marinated octopus salad (salata od hobotnice) makes a nice change or a light meal in itself in hot weather. Risotto is technically a starter but is normally enough for a main course. Seafood risotto is delicious; the more daring may like to try black risotto made with squid ink. Main courses usually consist of grilled meat or fish. (Na žaru = on the grill). High grade white fish (Zubatac, Brancin or Orada are among the tastiest) is priced by the kilo in restaurants, and is usually smothered in parsley, garlic, lemon and olive oil. We don’t offer a translation because it probably wouldn’t mean much to you. Cheaper options are mackerel (skuša), tuna (tunjevina), sardines (srdele) or squid (lignje), which are just as delicious. The classic accompaniment is blitva (chard, or mangold) which is normally cooked with potatoes. A beloved insult of the people in the rest of Croatia towards the Dalmatians is “Blitvari”, meaning “Chard eaters”. Đuveđ is a vegetable dish not unlike ratatouille. A more unusual cooking style is ispod peka (roasted under an iron bell heaped with glowing ash). Octopus cooked in

Zadar In Your Pocket

this way is truly a local delicacy, while škarpina is a lovely (and inexpensive) pink fish which can be prepared both this way, or as Brudet - a fish casserole typical of coastal home cooking, also excellent made with eel (ugor). A less attractive fishy friend is grdobina (“monster fish”), which despite appearances is sublime prepared as medallions wra pp e d i n p rš u t. Seafood fans will be delighted with mussels (dagnje) or scampi cooked na buzaru in garlic, herbs, white wine, and sometimes tomato. Look out for oysters (kamenice) from Mali Ston - they’re the best. All meat is usually excellent. Look out for lamb grilled with herbs, or island lamb cooked on the spit (na ražnju). Soup made from lamb with vegetables is very special. Pašticada is a beef dish cooked with dessert wine and preserved fruit which enjoys a cult-like status in these parts, and for the real experience should be served with home-made gnocchi (njoki). You can also find good veal, especially tasty cooked with sage and pršut. A couple of weeks of that and we guarantee you shining eyes and a glossy coat.

Drink Viniculture has always been an important part of life on the Adriatic and there are many fine Croatian wines. If you are eating in a traditional konoba, sometimes they will have home-made wine sold out of the barrel, cheap and fun to try. Local whites are usually very drinkable, reds tend to be on the gentle side. If you’re unlucky and hit a bad example, just add mineral water. If you fancy trying posh wine, here are some names to look out for. But don’t be afraid to ask the waiter to recommend something - they may have something special in. Whites: Aenona (Marić estate), Maraština (Vinarija Benkovac) are both high-quality dry whites. Reds: Postup and Dingač are the most famous top quality reds, both from the Pelješac peninsula in the south. Expensive, but worth it. Plavac is an indigenous grape, producing a powerful southern reds, the best examples are from Plenković and Zlatan Plančič, both from the island of Hvar. Babić from Primošten is a softer style. After your meal, local firewaters, or rakija, could be šljivovica (plum), travarica (herb), lozovača (grappa), but then again there’s nothing you can’t make rakija from! If they have home-made, try it - it’s light-years better than the shop-bought stuff. Pelinkovac is a local bitter, Prošek is a dessert wine. Definitely try maraschino cherry drinks.

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As in all of Croatia, cafe culture rules in Zadar. Weary sightseers take the weight off their feet, and for locals it’s vital to have a chance to catch up with the day’s gossip over a macchiato. That means the coffee is usually good. The usual espresso and cappuccino are available everywhere. A latte here is called a “bila kava” (white coffee), and you can increasingly find instant coffee too. Boo to globalisation! 72 D-4, Ul. posedarskih knezova 2. This is one of those places where local characters congregate, and here they’re cared for by the very guy who set up the bar in ‘72, hence the name. It’s a friendly, unpretentious place with the cheapest beer in town at 13kn a bottle. Q Open 07:00 - 01:30. PBX Ambiental C-4, M. Pavlinovića 8. Artistic motif decorated with visions from Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring. Nice interior, quiet and cozy. Offers over 100 varieties of tea as well as sandwiches, croissants, over thirty types of chocolate beverages and has a nice view. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PJNB Bizarre C-2, Dalmatinskog sabora 1. Not bizzarre at all. A super terrace for sitting out, especially on Friday nights (fešta night), when owner Željko lays on the fried fish and Dalmatian acapella trios. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Branimir D-1, Obala kneza Branimira 10, tel. (+38523) 30 56 84. A super spot to sit and enjoy the buzz of conversation and a prime viewing position of the handsome footbridge and the Old Town peninsula opposite. You can pick up international papers in the nearby kiosk. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PGB Callegro B-3, Široka ulica 18, info@callegro.com, www. callegro.com. The locals say that this café has the best coffee in the city. We shall add that there are a few other cafes nearby that provide strong competition to such remarks, but what Callegro has over its rivals is the most beautiful view at the old Roman Forum. From its position, you can also kick back and watch other people strolling through the famous street Kalelarga! Q June, September Open 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. July, August Open 07:30 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 01:30. PNGBX Canova bar D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 4. New and refreshing this café tucked away in the new shopping center on R. Boškovića Street, Canova offers some really colorful specialty drinks, Illy coffee and a chilled out atmosphere. Indoor and outdoor seating, a nice place to relax and have a conversation. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PGBX Central C-3, Široka ulica 3. Do realise that this café is built on the ruins of Saint Catherine’s Church. That may explain that heavenly aroma that ascends from the pizzetas, different sandwiches and treats that are served. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PJNB Forum B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 37. A fine location on the Kalelarga. The shaded terrace is blessed by the twin attractions of St Donatus’, the most famous symbol of Zadar, and the Forum. Cake. Mmmmmmmmm. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PNB Guam F-3, Krešimirova obala 46. Has one of the most luxurious terraces for sitting by the sea, drinking great coffee

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and watching the sun go down. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PNGB Kampo A/B-3, Trg 3 bunara bb. For morning coffee... QOpen 06:30 - 24:00. GBX Kavana Ledo J-4, Obala kneza Trpimira 21. Named after what has been for years one of the most popular Croatian ice-cream makers, with its teddy bear logo. This was once a stylish and modern affair which has now faded somewhat. Still, it’s a good place to sit on the waterfront and enjoy coffee and cake, or even a game of pool. QOpen 06:30 23:00. PNB Lovre C-3, Narodni trg 1, tel. (+385-23) 21 26 78. The best location on Narodni trg, next to the City Sentinel, the interior is actually a former church. Not that you’ll want to sit inside when the view outside of the attractive and colourful square is so fine. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. PNGB Marex J-4, Ul. kneza Trpimira bb. An unmissable stop on the cafe scene in summertime, with great ice cream made by the Marex company. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. More C-2, Brne Krnarutića 3, tel. (+385-23) 64 41 30. A cheerful drinking place populated by locals for years. The sea captain that winks at you from the window is a particularly jolly character QOpen 06:00 - 02:00. PGBX Moto cafe M-1, Hrvatskog sabora 8, Bili Brig, tel. (+385-23) 32 64 19. Bili Brig: a residential area in the northern part of town. A biker’s paradise. A biker crowd hangs out, and bikes hang within to make the point absolutely clear. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. PGBX Passage M-5, Bartola Kašića 1. On the corner of a red brick building known by the locals as the “peglica” (little iron) because of its unusual triangular shape. On the Jazine bay at the beginning of the Old Town peninsula. QOpen 06:30 - 22:00. PNB Porat C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 13. If location means everything then this café has it. Have a morning coffee or simply chill in the sunset as you see the boats and yachts enter the port. There is also a view of the old city walls and the tower of Saint Anastasia’s Church. Its interior is modern and stylish. QOpen 06:30 - 01:30. PGBXW Porthos O-6, Karma 7a, Kolovare, tel. (+385-23) 31 52 75. Funky interior with bright colors and plenty of sunlight during the day. Phenomenal view as this café is right on the beach at Kolovare. This place has all the regular beverages a café offers in Croatia, and is a great place to watch the sunset. Nice coffee mugs too. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PNB Riva B-3, Ul. zadarskog mira 1358 br.22, tel. (+385-23) 25 14 62. A pleasant terrace on the Riva promenade, near the Forum. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PNGBX VIP caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-23) 30 19 69. Next to the rowing club and right on Jazine Bay VIP offers internet access, coffee, dozens of cocktails, ice cream, cigars, sandwiches and croissants and a beautiful view of Stari Grad. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 03:00. BXW

Not to be missed Maraschino – a bittersweet liqueur that was served at the royal courts of the English Queen Victoria

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Nightlife

Nightlife Cocktail bars

On warm evenings, everybody is outside. Sitting on benches and promenading the street (the Italian Corzo) are habits that still linger. Zadar’s nightlife is neither sceney nor divided into old and young, so in most places you’ll find an unpretentious mix of people. While the Old Town is an atmospheric place to spend your evenings, you can also spend time in places like Borik, Diklo and Kolovare, to catch the sea breeze and watch the sun go down. Zadar’s sunsets are supposed to be the best in the world. Apparently, Alfred Hitchcock agreed. Those of you wanting a little more will nevertheless not be disappointed. Young Croatians are a pretty cosmopolitan lot, and you would be surprised how urban the culture is. There are a handful of clubs which offer some decent nights, and a wide choice of bars to suit your tastes.

Barbara bar F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel. (+385-23) 20 61 00. Done out in classic lounge bar style, all wicker and white cushions, the Barbara Bar is a classy and comfortable spot to wind down after a hard day’s sunbathing or yachting on Borik. It’s inside the Funimation hotel in the Falkenstiener Borik hotel complex. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PAGBX Mango F-3, Krešimirova obala 12, Diklo. This brightlycoloured bar is on the waterfront at Diklo, a little west of Zadar’s centre and opposite the Borik complex. It’s a lively place to mingle with a pleasantly mixed crowd and enjoy a few expertly mixed cocktails, especially at sundown. QOpen 08:00 - 04:00. B

Automat gambling

Hangin’ out

Monaco Millions N-5, F. Tuđmana 14. The extreme joy that is handing money over to establishments more than willing to make the experience as easy as possible for you. Warning: mom is onto your sneaking-spare-change-from-herwallet move by the way is waiting to discuss what should be done about it with father when he comes home. You’re wise to be on high alert. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00.

Armin Van Buuren

Clubs Zadar doesn’t have a huge variety of clubs, so the owners tend to try to cater for everyone, offering different kinds of music on different nights. At the time of going to press, in true Mediterranean fashion, very few people had a clue what would be happening when this summer, so keep an eye out for flyers and posters. Here’s a general idea of what to expect. Apart from that, the good news is the crowd is always very mixed, and the appalling Europop you find in so many resorts is pretty much absent. City Club Forum M-5, Marka Marulića bb, tel. (+385-) 091 324 07 89, forum.city.club@gmail.com. A smallish coliseum-shaped space with three bars an atmosphere of full-on hedonism to recall the fall of Rome. The music policy is flexible, but you can expect to find commercial house and r’n’b. QOpen , Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. The Garden B-2, Bedemi zadarskih pobuna bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 06 31, info@thegardenzadar.com, www. watchthegardengrow.eu. Opened by two members of Brit reggae outfit UB40 this spectacular garden atop the city walls used to be the coolest hangout in the former Yugoslavia. Now, coolly minimalist with ultra-comfortable loungers, it’s a perfect place for enjoying drinks, sunshine, views, a game of chess and hot summer nights to the tune of nu jazz, dub, latin, breaks and downtempo electronica. QOpen 10:30 01:30. JEBW

Zadar In Your Pocket

Arkada D-3, Ruđera Boškovića 6, tel. (+385-23) 21

13 68. A covered terrace with a wooden deck and comfy couches, very popular with the teeny crowd. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B Arsenal B-1, Trg tri bunara 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 38 21/(+385-) 099 210 33 09, info@arsenalzadar.com, www.arsenalzadar.com. Originally used as a naval service center in the 18th century, the arsenal now stockpiles history, culture, art, and entertainment. The gargantuan structure offers food, drink, music, interactive art, and reflects Zadar’s 3000 year history, life today, and a peek into the future. You can visit one of the many exhibitions - the Gallery hosts multiple shows throughout the year. Or if you just feel like food or a drink, relax in one of the most laid back atmospheres in Zadar. Want an added bonus? Arsenal and the Zadar Tourist Board put their heads together so you can find all the tourist information you need. From accommodation to tours, Internet access and exchange facilities you will find them all at Arsenal. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. PTJAEBKW Borgo C-3, Varoška 2. A small bar where locals tend to congregate and get merry. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PBX Brazil D-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV bb, tel. (+385-) 091 208 55 61. Just by the Riva, a nice leafy terrace and an inside bar which is actually within the city bastions. Comfortable, relaxed, and the only place with satellite radio, meaning it registers above average on the music taste-ometer QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PNB Cafe Gallery Gina C-3, Varoška 2. Wildly popular after dark, good music, a tiny art gallery and an older crowd all crammed into a little space in an atmospheric stone street. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B Corso C-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića 4, tel. (+385-) 098 182 77 41. Super-modern inside and with a pleasant terrace on the Riva, we hear that they are spinning great DJ parties at the weekends these days. The music policy is on the less annoying side of the dance spectrum. Q Open 08:00 01:30. PNGB Dolce Vita C-4, Matice Dalmatinske 6, antoniomontana@ net.hr. Indeed popular with those who appreciate la dolce vita, i.e. the trendy crowd. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 01:30. PJNBX Gagica G-4, A.G. Matoša 8, tel. (+385-23) 33 22 20, agrongagica@hotmail.com. Gagica’s history goes back to the 60’s, and it has been one of Zadar’s favourite bars ever since. Good for breakfast, and snacks are served as long as it’s open. The ice cream is home made by the owner himself. Good cocktails, fast service, friendly and fun. QOpen 07:00 - 03:00. NGBX

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Kult C-3, Stomorica 6. Has a gorgeous terrace in a little park with a stone balustrade. A popular hangout with locals. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00. PJBX LLoyd B-3, Trg Sv. Stošije 3, tel. (+385-23) 25 08 51. One of the coolest chill-out spots for a slightly older crowd. After sundown, comfy cushions are strewn on the steps by St Anastasia’s cathedral. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PNGBX Lotus C-4, Stomorica 7. A relaxed, alternative vibe, unless you consider young people straining desperately to be different a negation of the term “relaxed”. The music confidently straddles rock and punk genres. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. B Maraschino E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6a, tel. (+38523) 22 40 93, maraschinobar@gmail.com. Venture out in the morning or afternoon and it’s a café/restaurant, head on down late evening and it transforms into a night club. With live bands and various DJs performing, you have every excuse to sip cocktails and party. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00. PAGB Q Bar B-2, Liburnska obala 6. A good old thirst needs a good old beverage, so why not visit one of the city’s pubs located at the very end of the Zadar peninsula. No two nights are the same with different gigs and genres filling the weekly timetable. Spacious with a relaxed vibe and a snazzy view of the port and marina! QOpen 07:00 - 04:00. PGBX Rio C-4, Putevac 5, ivan.antisin@zd.t-com.hr. Right by In Time, pretty relaxed and playing Latino and house. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PB Sea organ (Morske orgulje) A-4, Riva. Read all about Zadar’s sea organ - the only one in the world - in “What to see”, then head, equipped with your insider knowledge, to impress the chaps or chapesses that gather there by evening. It’s a zadar.inyourpocket.com

nice place to lounge whilst listening to the sounds produced by the waves, and it’s a special experience at sunset. Shine C-4, M. Pavlinovića 16, tel. (+385-) 091 399 96 01, info@barshine.hr, www.barshine.hr. Amongst the many hotspots, clubs and bars in Zadar, Shine has a certain glow about it. Positioned along the Riva, you can drop in to this bar for some added fun whilst choosing from the riveting cocktails up for grabs QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. PB The Factory bar D-3, Poljana Pavla Pavlovića bb, tel. (+385-) 095 914 56 20, www.factorybar.hr. It is as if the interior had been mirrored from the TV series ‘Sex and the City’. Original walls, TV monitors and the general décor have wooed punters. It’s a bar in the city centre that guarantees for a good time with a splash of urban music bellowing. QOpen 08:00 - 01:30. PNBX Toni C-3, Mihe Klaića 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 47. On Mihe Klaića, a tiny street which, come sundown, is one of the most popular hangouts. Thus, the outside benches at Toni are always busy, and are a great location for rubbing shoulders and checking out the talent. A great view of the attractive little church, St Michael’s, opposite. Q Open 07:00 - 01:30. PNBX

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What to see

Nightlife Alright, so having your city razed to the ground every few hundred years might have its drawbacks - but look on the bright side! The legacy of constant rebuilding has given Zadar a uniquely rich architecture, and there can be few places on Earth with such diverse influences crammed into one small area.

Essential Zadar City Forum (Forum) B-3. The Roman Forum - the SHM

Yachting Bar G-5, Majstora Radovana 7, Borik, tel.

(+385-) 091 452 34 52. A super, modern bar by the Borik marina, with a great selection of drinks and a terrace with live music. Recommended for easy early evening drinking. Sail into the cordiallly named Yachting Bar in case you are feeling peckish. It offers croissants, hot and cold sandwiches, toasts and all the other snacks one would desire for immediate hunger satisfaction. QOpen 07:00 - 04:00. PNBW Zodiak D-4, Šimuna Ljubavca 2. A tiny bar with a few seats in an equally tiny street, and a not-so-tiny crowd that gathers for the music that veers eclectically between grunge and drum’n’bass. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00. PNBX

Out of town Aquarius Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-

53) 66 20 38/(+385-) 091 199 78 99, info@aquarius. hr, www.aquarius.hr/zrce. If you’re looking for a true beach party in the Ibiza sense, head for the island of Pag. Just outside the town of Novalja is a beach called Zrće, a haven of white pebbles and crystal sea. Aquarius, probably the best club in Zagreb, has a superb space here, with places to eat and drink, home-made ice cream, an aerobics club (daytime), and dancing by night. The club is superbly equipped - cool off in the bar area in a paddling pool. Quality. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. BKC Barbar ella’s Petrčane, Punta Radman, inf o@ thegardenzadar.com, www.watchthegardengrow.eu. The Garden club people revive this legendary club space on a pine covered peninsula 10km from Zadar. Super sundown cocktails, and Saturday parties with future jazz scene names. Open: Terrace 10:00 - 01:30; Coctail bar 12:00 - 01:30 and Night club 24:00 - 06:00. Q PAB Beach Bar Kalypso Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island. A beach bar with sports (volleyball, darts, badminton), games and entertainment for young and old, fast food, cocktails and internet access. The late bar is pumping ‘til who knows - and who cares - when! Open ‘til late QOpen 08:00 - 06:00. B Beach Bar Papaya Zrće beach, Novalja, Pag island, tel. (+385-) 091 462 92 98, info@papaya.com.hr, www. papaya.com.hr. Another popular outfit from Zagreb bring you great summer entertainment on Pag. Bar and restaurant areas are decked out in exotic style, there are swimming pools, a water slide and a jaccuzzi. Balearic-style house music and foam parties, and after 8 the parties see good resident DJs and international guests playing varied music styles. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, 23:00 - 06:00. BC Carpy More Kralja Tvrtka 10, Biograd, tel. (+38523) 38 61 19. In this beautifully renovated old building in Biograd’s old town, a Dalmatian pub has opened, all stone walls and rough-hewn wooden furniture. It’s an airy space with comfortable seating and cosy antique details. Call to reserve a table. QOpen 07:00 - 06:00. AGB

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Lavender Bed Bar Hotel Adriatic, Tina Ujevića 7,

Biograd, sales@ilirijabiograd.com, www.ilirijabiograd. com. Set in a beautiful garden overlooking the sea at the Hotel Adriatic. Bougainvillea blooms around you, and a relaxing ambience is created by textile canopies and chillout music. As the name suggests, you can sip your cocktail as you lounge, godlike, on a comfortable cushioned bed. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. AB Lounge Bar Miramare Vrulja 10, Preko, tel. (+385-) 091 530 48 12, eventi@miramare-lounge.com, www. miramare-lounge.com. You are at the bar, you order your drink, and do a 180 degree turn as the sea breeze gently blows. This cool, hip lounge bar is located on the Preko waterfront on the island of Ugljan. Catch a 20 minute ferry form Zadar which takes you to Preko, ferries leave every 30 minutes. Cocktails, jazz and soul music sessions are a hit and the bar is perfectly set up for those outdoor summer nights. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. NBJE Saturnus Zaton Holiday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, info@zaton.hr, www.zaton.hr. A huge and popular nightclub (the biggest on the Croatian coast), close to the apartment complex, with DJ parties and fashion shows at weekends. QOpen Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 04:00. PLN Vanga Stara Riva bb, Pag Town, Pag Island, tel. (+38523) 61 11 94, marija.valentic@zd.htnet.hr, www.ljubica. hr. A disco club named after an old local ferry, it’s open nonstop for fun, including karaoke and foam parties. QOpen 16:00 - 03:00. B

largest on this side of the Adriatic - was founded by the first Emperor Augustus, as documented on two 3rd Century stone inscriptions on the site. A raised area on the west side was the site of a temple dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. To one side a “Pillar of Shame“ still stands, where naughty people were chained and pilloried. (A second one was taken away and now stands near the Three Wells Square). The Forum also comprised a basilica and rooms for council chambers and citizens’ assemblies. Underneath was a colonnade where shops and workshops once stood. The site was only discovered in the 1930s. Allied bombers inadvertently assisted in the clearing process, and site was completely cleared and restored between 1964 and ‘67. One of the most beautiful things about these remains is the way that they are still a part of the fabric of the city. No signs forbid you to touch or sit on the stones. Take time one evening to sit and imagine the bustle of the traders, the grandeur of the pagan temples and the horrors of the blood sacrifices that took place on the very altars you can see on this spot.

City Lodge (Gradska loža) D-3, Narodni trg. Built by

Pubs

City Forum, Stjepan Felber

Kantun C-4, Stomorica 5. Kantun (the Dalmatian for

“corner”) is situated on a crossroads (called Kantun) that is a hub for the hep cats of Zadar. The only place with a simple pub feel and a music policy that proudly announces itself: Raaawk! QOpen 07:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. PBX

Pop your cherry One thing you must try in Zadar is a drink made out of local Maraschino cherries – a particularly aromatic variety, a little bitter, therefore not used for eating, but great when sugared up to the max. As we all know, it’s the quiet ones you have to watch, and, like all the most potent brews, Maraschino liqueur (crystal clear and syrupy) was first made by 16th Century monks, who called it “sun dew”. Apparently the fruits and young leaves of the Maraschino cherry tree were so full of the goodness of sunshine and the bountiful earth that the drinker would be imbued with positive effects. The city’s Maraska factory is the yellow building on the mainland opposite the footbridge, and has been producing alcoholic and non-alcoholic variations of the cherry, as well as other drinks, for years. It’s something which the locals are rightly proud of.

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main patron saint) on his horse, and the Shield of St Mark (the coat of arms of the Republic of Venice). Previously, the area had been highly defensive, with a surrounding moat. Between the ferryport and market is the Harbour Gate (also known as St Chrysogonus’ Gate, because of its proximity to the church of the same name), built in 1573 to celebrate the victory of the Christian fleet over the Turks at Lepanto. Near the bridge on the north side is the neo-Renaissance Bridge Gate, knocked through by the Italians only 70 years ago, and leading directly to Narodni trg and the Kalelarga. Further west, by the old Arsenal, is the fourth and smallest gate, named after St Rocco, connecting the Three Wells Square with the harbour area.

City Gates (Gradska vrata) D-2. The city walls have had several entrances knocked through them at more confident points in Zadar’s history. Some of them were walled up for good, but four remain as the vital link between the town within the walls and the sea outside them. The Venetians built the Land Gate - then the main entrance into the city - on the little Foša harbour in 1543. It’s considered one of the finest monuments of the Venetian rule in Dalmatia, and has the form of a triumphal arch with a central passage for wheeled t r a ff i c , a n d t w o smaller side arches for p e d e s t rian s. I t’s decorated with moti fs su ch as St Chrysogonus (Zadar’s zadar.inyourpocket.com

the same architet as the City Sentinel, this building once was the city’s courthouse, council chambers and library. With its huge windows and high ceilings, it nowadays serves as a stunning exhibition space, hosting events such as the international photography triennial “Man and the Sea” and the triennial of contemporary Croatian art “The Blue Salon”. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Holidays Closed. Admission 5 - 10kn. City Sentinel (Gradska straža) C-3, Narodni trg. Designed by a Venetian architect in the late Renaissance style, with a large central clock tower and a surrounding stone barrier and railing with holes for cannons (both later additions). The building once housed the Ethnographic Section of the National Museum, one of the most important collections in the country, and worth seeing for the rich colours of local national costumes, textiles (weaving and lace), jewellery, agricultural, fishing and household objects. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. Holidays Closed. Admission 5 -10kn.

Not to be missed Saint Donatus Church (9th century AD)

City tours Love gods take note. The most romantic way to visit the Old Town for the first time is to catch the little red rowing boat waiting, rain or shine, on a jetty by the Tankerkomerc building on the mainland side of the footbridge. There has been a man in a rowing boat here for 800 years. He’s getting a bit past it now, but these Dalmatians are a hardy lot.Seriously, this is a famous local sight, called the “barkarjol”, and apart from its charm, the 100 metre trip across the Jazine bay saves you a twenty minute walk, and costs only 5kn.

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What to see

What to see St Anastasia’s Cathedral (Katedrala sv. Stošije)

B-3, Trg svete Stošije. An attractive Romanesque cathedral - the biggest in Dalmatia - built during the 12th and 13th centuries. As with many Dalmatian churches, the belfry is separate. You can climb to the top - the view is amazing. Two attractive rosettes decorate the front portal, and a gallery of blind arches the flanks, with a ledge above them providing seating for pigeons to look down on the throngs on the Kalelarga. Simple stone blocks are lightened with decorative friezes, and the lovely stonemasonry around the doors is worth a careful look. Highlights of the interior include the stone ciborium covering the high altar, frescoes, an intricately carved choir and an Early Christian mosaic in the sacristry. St Donatus’ Church (Crkva sv. Donata) B-3, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla II. Imposing and austere, yet absolutely harmonius and original in form, it’s not surprising that the preRomanesque St Donatus’ is taken as the very symbol of Zadar and an image of the unique spirit of Dalmatia. The circular shape is typical of the early Byzantine age in Dalmatia. It was founded in the 9th century, when it was called the Church of the Holy Trinity, and given its present name six hundred years later in memory of a famous bishop. Religious services are no longer held here, but the stark interior has excellent acoustics and is used as the concert venue for the annual International Festival of Medieval Renaissance Music, also known as “The Musical Evenings in St Donatus’”. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed December - April Admission 12 -15kn.

St Donatus’ Church, Stjepan Felber

Cultural Heritage Research Library and Historical Archive Zadar’s Research Library is the second largest Croatian institution of this kind after the National University Library in Zagreb. It was founded in 1855 by local professor and benefactor Petar Aleksandar Paravija, and was originally in the Loggia on Narodni trg, moving into the present building, an attractive yellow building which used to be a barracks. It’s the bedrock upon which not only Zadar’s rich cultural and educational life rests, but also that of Croatia. Zadar was for a long time the administrative centre of Dalmatia, under many colonial powers. The documentation kept here, and in the Historical Archive (near St Dimitri’s church) is the seed of knowledge of much of Croatia’s legal and political past. Zadar In Your Pocket

On St Chrysogonus’ square is a statue of a man with rather muscular legs. This is Petar Zoranić, the writer of the first novel in Croatian. Born in Zadar, he was the son of a family of nobles from Nin. The beauty of the surrounding mountains and the sea was his inspiration and his theme in Planine (“Mountains”), written in 1536, a pastoral romance and a product of the Renaissance in Zadar at that time - a time when the city was under siege by the Turks, but art and culture prospered within.

When you look into it, you could be forgiven for thinking that all the people of Zadar have done through the centuries is build churches. Looking at this gives you a good idea of exactly how long the city has been standing, and how rich that life has been. Here are the main highlights. Note: churches are normally only open for Mass - each has its own timetable. All churches expect you to cover up: short shorts and tiny tops will not only raise eyebrows, but you may be handed a cover-up or refused admittance.

Church of Our Lady of Health (Crkva Gospe od “Kaštela” (Zdravja)) A-3, Braće Bilišić 1. In the green

park by Three Wells Square (see Essential Zadar) is the little orange Church of Our Lady of Health, one of the city’s best-loved churches. It lies in the quiet old neighbourhood of Kampo Kaštelo. Built in 1703 on the site of two much older churches, it contains a copy of a famous painting “Our Lady of Kaštelo”, the original of which is now in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ). Pavlinovića 12. The foundations of this tiny Early Christian church (11th Century) were found in 1880 near Hotel Zagreb on the northern edge of the peninsula, and uncovered in the ‘60s. The floor plan of the church is fascinating: the five semicircular apses (typical of early Dalmatian church architecture) and the semicircular portal surrounding the central space give it an unusual six-leaved clover shape.

The Riva, Stjepan Felber

The Riva A/B/C-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV.

“Riva” is a generic word meaning “waterfront”, usually a place to enjoy a stroll and a coffee in seaside towns. When people in Zadar talk about the Riva, they mean the pleasant promenade on the edge of the Old Town peninsula called Obala Petra Krešimira IV, named after a Croatian King. Until the 19th century, the space you see here was occupied by an outer ring of fortifications, needed to keep invaders at bay. When the Austrians took over the administration of Zadar in 1813, a period of peace began. As well as founding the beautiful parks on top of parts of Zadar’s system of fortifications, they completely removed the outer ring. The Riva is beautifully planted with lawns, flowers and palms, is the site of the stunning University building, and is a great place to stroll either in the evenings or even to have a dip by day.

Not to be missed The Zadar sunset

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1906 by Viennese architect Karl Susan, and has an unusual central cupola. It was part of an educational complex, and two of the buildings now house the Historical Archives, the University’s Faculty of Humanities and the Croatian Academy of Arts and Sciences.

Churches

Church of St Mary “de Pusterla” Stomorica (Crkva sv. Marije “de Pusterla” Stomorica) C-4, Mihovila

City Walls (Gradski bedemi) C/D- 2. Once the largest

city-fortress in the entire Republic of Venice, Zadar’s walls allowed it to retain more of its independence than most of its neighbouring cities, and meant that it was never captured by the Turks. Previously, there were even more fortifications than there are now, but what are left are put to good use, with delightful parks and promenades on top of them (see below). Take a look inside doors such as the one on Five Wells Square - you can see huge empty spaces inside once used as military storage facilities.On top of the bastion above the Harbour Gate is a promenade called the Muraj - a peaceful vantage point over the mainland opposite and the people crossing the bridge. One of the large yellow buildings up there is one of Zadar’s old newspaper presses.

Statue of Petar Zoranić

St Andrew’s and St Peter the Elder’s (Crkva sv. Petra Starog i Sv. Andrije) C-2, Hrvoja Vukčića

Hrvatinića 10. On the corner of Ulica Dalmatinskog Sabora and Ulica Hrvoja Vukčića Hrvatinića (near the market), the simple frontage of St Andrew’s has an unremarkable 17th century facade, but other parts date back to the 5th and 6th centuries. Through the apse you enter the very unusual church of St Peter the Elder, also from the early Middle Ages. Both contain fragments of ancient frescoes, and the atmospheric interiors are now used as exhibition spaces.

St Chrysogonus’ Church (Crkva sv. Krševana)

C-2, Poljana Pape Aleksandra III 2. A beautifully preserved little Romanesque church, consecrated in 1175, originally belonging to a Benedictine monastery that once stood nearby. The front is quite simple, while on the sides are delightful barley-sugar twist columns, and to the rear three semicircular apses, the central one decorated with a gallery. The interior is also pleasingly simple, with many remains of frescoes. The high altar was built in 1701 by citizens who were spared from plague. In 1717 white marble statues of Zadar’s four patron saints were erected on the altar. St Dimitri’s Church (Crkva sv. Dimitrija) D-4, Mihovila Pavlinovića. St Dimitri’s is an unusual example of Neo-Classical architecture in Dalmatia. It was completed in

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Not to be missed Saint Mary’s Church Campanile from 1105

Zadar’s Protection Squad Zadar has four patron saints. If that seems a bit excessive, read the History section, you’ll soon understand why. Here’s the gang:

St Simeon - Sveti Šimun

Saint Simeon (or Simon) is said to have been present at the birth of Jesus, which is probably why women wishing to bear a son appeal to him. This also explains why he is the most popular patron saint: around here, the birth of a son occasions much quaffing of rakija and Tarzan-like chest-beating. The saint’s body is kept in an amazing casket which is opened every year on October 8 (see Essential Zadar).

St Chrysogonus - Sveti Krševan

St Chrysogonus (or Grisogono in Italian) is the main patron saint of the city: the City of Zadar Day celebrations are always held on St Chrysogonus’ day (November 24). You can see him riding a horse on Zadar’s coat of arms and flag. He was persecuted and beheaded by Roman Emperor Diocletian (who built the palace at Split).

St Anastasia - Sveta Stošija

St Anastasia was also martyred under Diocletian, and is also said to have been present at the birth of Christ. She cared for persecuted Christians, and unfortunately met the same fate herself - she was tortured and beheaded. Her remains now lie in a marble reliquary in the Cathedral, which is dedicated to her.

St Zoilo - (no translation available)

The least well-known of Zadar’s keepers, St Zoilo rescued St Chrysogonus’ body when it was washed up on the shore, and buried it at his home in Venice. Although Chrysogonus had been beheaded, his body was miraculously whole. For this and other kind acts, St Zoilo’s relics were brought to Zadar after his death.

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What to see Asseria At Asseria, near Podgrađe, 6km east of Benkovac are the remains of an urban settlement almost a kilometre long. Asseria was founded long before the Romans set foot on these lands. It was a powerful centre of the Liburnian tribe, whose territories stretched for miles along the eastern Adriatic coast. When the Romans later occupied these lands, Asseria grew to become a municipality with a governing council. The golden era of Asseria came to an end when Avar (and sometimes Slav) tribes swept across the plains of Europe, and the Roman Empire crumbled. The last mention of the settlement is from the 11th century. You can also see remains from the days when this whole area boasted influence and might at Nadin (Nedinum) and Karin (Corinium). Karin lies on the mouth of the river Karišnica, where it widens into the lagoon named the “Karin Sea”, with clear water for swimming and curative mud in some places. Here stands a fine example of medieval religious architecture, a 15th century Franciscan monastery, built on the site of a Benedictine monastery. There is a medieval fort at Perušić and a beautiful 15th century fort at Kličevica.

St Dominic’s Church (Crkva sv. Dominika) D-3,

Špire Brusine 13. This former church building has had an interesting past. Consecrated in 1280, it belonged to a Dominican monastery who founded the first university in Croatia there (1396). When Napoleon took Zadar in 1805, he abolished the Dominican order, turned the church into a barracks, and shut down the university. The church has recently been renovated, and part of the monastery complex is now home to Zadar’s popular and internationally acclaimed Puppet Theatre. St Elias’s Church (Crkva sv. Ilije) B-3. The city’s Orthodox church was originally used by Greek merchants and sailors, later serving the city’s Serbian community. It stands just behind the Forum, and since this area is undergoing extensive renovation, you can’t access the church at the moment. It was built in the late Baroque style at the end of the 18th century, and contains a wonderful collection of icons spanning the 16th to 18th centuries.

St Francis’s Church & Franciscan Monastery (Franjevački samostan i Crkva sv. Franje Asiškog)

A/B-3, Trg sv.Frane 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 04 68. Consecrated in 1280, Saint Francis’s is the oldest Gothic church in Dalmatia, also displaying fine Renaissance and Baroque work, and containing some very important artworks. The church was the venue for the signing of the Zadar peace treaty of 1358, when the Venetians ended centuries of

Igor Neuhausler

Zadar In Your Pocket

What to see attacks on the city and handed it to the protection of the Croatian-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou. Particularly worth seeing is the wonderful choir in a local style known as Floral Gothic. The attached Franciscan monastery has a beautiful Renaissance cloister. Zadar’s young people like to come here for Midnight Mass at Christmas. In the early part of 2011, during restoration works, a 400sqm floor space entirely covered in headstones from between the 14th and the 19th centuries was discovered. Mass Sunday 08:30, 10:00, 20:00. Mass in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. St Laurence’s Church (Crkva sv. Lovre) C-3, Široka ulica 2. The remains of this pre-Romanesque church (11th century) are the oldest part of Narodni trg, and are reached through the premises of Cafe Lovro on the square. It’s small and simple, but architecturally rich. St Mary’s Church (Crkva sv. Marije) C-3, Trg opatice Čike 1. Founded in 1066 by a Zadar noblewoman, and belonging to a closed order of Benedictine nuns, the church was fundamentally rebuilt during the 16th century in the Renaissance spirit, but retains its Dalmatian aspect with its rounded gables. It has a fine Baroque interior with remnants of early Romanesque frescoes. The adjoining convent buildings contain the remarkable Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar ), and a beautiful cloistered garden only visible from the museum’s interior. As well as being the guardians of the city’s treasures, the nuns are extremely skilled at fine mending and do it for free. Bless! St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) D-3, Špire Brusine 4. On the corner of Ulica Špire Brusine and Ulica Mihe Klaica is the simple and charming Gothic frontage of St Michael’s, once part of a Franciscan monastery. A relief on the portal shows St Michael flanked by St Anastasia and St Chrysogonus. The present church was built in 1389 and added to in the 19th century. Of interest inside are a 13th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a statue of Saint Michael on the high altar. St Nediljice’s Church (Crkva sv. Nediljica) C-3. An early Croatian church, a reconstruction of its remains is displayed in the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art (see The Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar). St Nicholas’s Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) A/B - 3. The remains, built in a combination of Gothic and late Baroque styles and dating back as far as the 13th century, are close to St Francis’. Remnants of a Romanesque belltower lie in the courtyard. There are current attempts to save it from the ravages of history - Napoleon’s armies converted it into a barracks, damaging the interior, while war damaged the exterior. St Simeon’s Church (Crkva sv. Šimuna) D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. East of Narodni trg is the church named after the most popular patron saint of Zadar. First built in the 5th century, it has undergone alterations until as recently as 1980, and some find the terracotta and white exterior disappointing in comparison with the other churches. But it has a pleasant Mediterranean aspect, with palms planted outside, and the gilded reliquary of the saint inside is one of Zadar’s highlights (see The Silver Casket of St Simeon ). St Thomas’s Church (Crkva sv.Tome) C-2/3. The remains of this Early Christian church (late 5th century) on the corner of St Chrysongonus’ Square and Ulica Šimuna Kožičića Benje, were knocked down in 1822 to make way for a school, rediscovered in 1969, and the frontage was restored, now forming the facade of a shop. Some of the stone furniture of the interior is now in the Archeological Museum.

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Landmarks

Statue of Špiro Brusina D-4. The handsome fellow

City Market (Pijaca) C-2, Pod Bedemom bb. In most

Dalmatian towns the market is a sight for sore eyes, and Zadar’s is one of the biggest and best. It’s been here since the Middle Ages, but the large open space dates back to WWII, when many buildings were flattened in this part of town. Some around the edge of the square are only just being reconstructed. The outside stalls are where you’ll find mouthwatering displays of fruit, vegetables, fresh herbs and more... all locally grown and bursting with flavour. Little old ladies (bakice) also sell home made olive oil, rakija and cheese - usually far better than the shop-bought equivalent. The indoor meat market is to one side of the square, and the fish market is opposite, coolly located inside the city walls. Proud locals claim it’s the best fish market on the coast. To one side is a section of the market for cheap clothes and bric-a-brac, great if you need an emergency pair of flip-flops or a cheap snorkel. Hours of fun browsing, bargaining and banter. Five Wells Square (Trg 5 bunara) D-3, Trg 5 bunara. During the 16th century, the Venetians helped the city withstand Turkish sieges by building a large drinking water cistern with five ornamental wellheads. When the Turkish threat ended, a park was built on top of the nearby bastion, and nowadays the attractive stone-flagged park serves as the perfect gathering point for skateboarders.

staring at a shell in front of the University in Zadar is none other than Špiro Brusina. Born in 1845, he was an expert in natural sciences and founder of ornithology in Croatia. He was also a zoologist, explorer, and cultural and public official. Another curious fact is that he was a leading member in the Croatian chapter of the freemasons. What secrets does that shell contain?

Sea organ, Stjepan Felber

The Captain’s Tower (Kapetanova kula) D-3, Trg pet bunara. A pentagonal tower on the Five Wells Square, built by the Venetians to strengthen the city against Turkish attacks. It gets its name from the nearby residence of the Venetian city captain, and is now used as an exhibition space. The City Cemetery, Heritage Monument (Gradsko groblje) R-3. Cemeteries, most vacationers aren’t exactly

Five Wells Square, Stjepan Felber

Greeting to the Sun A-3. Witness this unique chance to

see the latest project in Zadar called ‘A salute to the sun’ by the architect Nikola Bašić, who represented Croatia at the 11th Venice Biennial 2008. This project is in alliance with the Sea Organ project. In making these two projects possible, musician Ivan Stamać and as well as engineer and expert on water hydraulics Vladimir Andročec have both made significant contributions.

The First Croatian University Zadar - the First Croatian University By St

Dominic’s church stands an attractive old white stone building, part of the Dominican monastery complex, with a plaque proclaiming its pride in being the first site of a University on Croatian soil. Established in 1396 by the Dominican monks, this puts Zadar up there with famous seats of learning such as Cambridge and Barcelona (1303), Heidelberg (1385), Charles University Prague (1348), (but not quite so old as Padova (1222) and Paris (1229). Zadar’s University focuses on humanities, and one can’t help envying those students: one look at the yellow Faculty on the Riva shows you that there are worse places to be than by the sea…

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thrilled at the thought of them. However it does have to be mentioned some of the highest quality stonework is on display at these sites. The city cemetery in Zadar is proof of that, and to be honest, when you visit on a sunny day it’s really not all that morbid. The Sea Organ (Morske orgulje) A-4, Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV. Spring 2005 saw Zadar gain something absolutely unique: the world’s first pipe organ that’s played by the sea. It’s an art installation designed to let people enjoy the point where urban space meets the sea on Zadar’s new pier for cruisers on the end of the Old Town peninsula. Simple, elegant stone steps have been built on the quayside, perfect for sitting on. Underneath, 35 pipes end in whistles with openings on the quayside above. The movement of the sea pushes air through, and - depending on the size and velocity of the wave - chords are played. As you sit and listen to the ever-changing sounds created by the sea’s energy, you can bask in the sun, watch one of Zadar’s famous sunsets or enjoy the balmy night air. This is proving to be an extremely popular spot for culture and leisure, bringing new life to a new part of the city. The project’s architect was Mr Nikola Bašić, and a team of experts from Zagreb and the island of Murter engineered the organ itself.

Museums Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-3, Trg opatice Čike 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 42, arheoloskimuzej-zadar@zd.htnet.hr, www.amzd.hr. On the Forum square is the low, modern building of the Archeological Museum, featuring artefacts from Zadar’s development from Prehistoric times through to the first Croatian settlements. For a chronological tour, it makes sense to go directly to the prehistoric exhibition on the second floor, which covers decorative ceramics, weaponry and items the seafaring Summer 2011

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What to see Liburnians brought from Greece and Italy. The first floor covers the Classical period, from the Romanised Liburnians (1st century BC) to the widescale Roman settlement (6th century AD). Artefacts include weaponry, items from local necropoli and sculpture, mosiacs and art created in farflung parts of the Roman Empire. The collection of 1st-3rd century glassware is wonderful. Also well worth seeing is a reconstruction showing the Forum area in Roman times. In a smaller room are exhibits from the development of Christianity in North Dalmatia in the late Classical and early Byzantine period, and rare artefacts from the invasion of the Goths. The ground floor (early Middle Ages, 8th to 11th centuries) contains exhibits from early Croatian graves near Nin, and stone furniture from churches which did not survive the ages. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 12 - 15kn. National Museum (Narodni muzej Zadar) C-2, Poljana pape Aleksandra III bb, tel. (+385-23) 25 18 51. The Zadar branch of the National Museum traces the urban development of Zadar from the Baroque to the first half of the 19th century: architectural fragments, portraiture, furniture and (particularly recommended) early photography. There are also scale models of Zadar through the ages. The scientific section of the National Museum is kept in the Deputy’s Palace (see Palaces). The Zadar National Museum consists of the Zadar City Museum, the Natural Science Department and the Ethnological Department. Tickets are purchased seperately for each department. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 15kn.

What to see Palaces Deputy’s Palace (Providurova palača) D-3. Completed in 1607 as the residence of the Venetian Deputy to Zadar, it now houses the Matica Hrvatska (the Central Croatian Cultural and Publishing Society). The building adjoining it at Medulićeva 2 houses the Scientific Department of the National Musem (exhibiting flora and fauna, including sea life, not only of the Zadar region but from all over the world. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn). Knight’s Palace (Kneževa palača) D-3, Poljana Šime Budinića. Together with the Deputy’s Palace it forms the Regency complex. The oldest Romanesque elements date back to the 13th Century, the courtyard is the oldest example of Classicism in Zadar. The palace is now under reconstruction after damage in the 1990s war.

The Museum of Ancient Glass (Muzej antičkog stakla) D-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-

23) 36 38 33/(+385-23) 36 38 30, www.mas-zadar. hr. The museum is one of the city’s newest attractions. It’s housed in the 19th century Cosmacendi Palace and has some outstanding views that overlook the Jazine harbour. The museum contains one of the premium collections of Roman glassware outside Italy, with a cornucopia of goblets, jars and vials retrieved from archaeological sites across Dalmatia. Highlights include the delicate vessels used by Roman ladies to store perfumes, skin creams and essential oils. Also look out for glass cups used to celebrate Mass, and dainty flasks in which holy water was stored. Take the opportunity to see the replica Roman glassware on sale as this is one of the classiest souvenir-stops in the city. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Open July October Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 10 - 30kn.

Legend of Saint Anastasia Under the reign of Emperor Diocletian at around the 4th century AD, Christians were persecuted in great numbers and a young girl by the name of Anastasia was secretly raised in the holy faith. Of noble descent, she was forced into an arranged marriage to a Roman pagan named Publius and was soon after put under house arrest because she wanted to remain a virgin - a sign of her piety and faith. Anastasia was in a loveless marriage that so many women had to endure in those days. After her husband’s death, she went to Aquileia accompanying Saint Chrysogonus where she testified to his martyrdom. According to one of numerous legends, she was tortured during the reign of Emperor Diocletian and was burned at the stake. Her relics were moved to Constantinople in the 5th century and Zadar bishop Donatus received them as a gift from the emperor Nicephor I as a sign of peace between Byzantine and Zadar. Her remains were moved to Zadar and were placed in a stone sarcophagus in Saint Peter’s Church which has from then on been called the Church of Saint Anastasia.

Zadar In Your Pocket

Photo Workshop in Sestrunj Knight’s Palace

Nassis and Patrizio Palaces (Palače Nassis i Petrizio) D/C -3. Near St Simeon’s Church in Ulica don Ive

Prodana are two beautiful examples of Gothic-Renaissance palaces, demonstrating how architecture, and in particular the creation of courtyard gardens, flowered during the 14th and 15th centuries behind the city walls, despite incessant bombardment by enemies. Palace Grisogono (Palača Grisogono) D-3. Another palace near St Simeon’s, on the corner of Ulica don Ive Prodana and Ulica Ilije Smiljanića. The first floor originally consisted of two connected Romanesque buildings. In the 16th Century the first floor was adapted in a combination of Renaissance and Gothic styles. Again, the courtyard is well worth a look.

Parks Queen Jelena Madijevka Park (Perivoj kraljice Jelene-Madijevka) D/E-3. Vladimir Nazor Park is not the city’s oldest - that distinction goes the park named after Queen Jelena Madijevka (Medici), built on top of the Grimaldi bastion by Five Wells Square. Founded by Austrian commander Baron Franz Ludwig von Welden in 1829, a passionate botanist and admirer of Dalmatian flora, it was the first public park in Dalmatia. To create a garden on top of a military object was an unusual move, but one Zadar is eternally grateful for.

Vladimir Nazor Park (Perivoj Vladimira Nazora)

E-3. Named since WWII after one of the most famous Croatian writers, Zadar’s biggest park lies on top of the city’s biggest fort, just east of the peninsula and the Land Gate. It was created in 1888-90 by an Austrian deputy, Dragutin Blažekovic, born to a noble family in Osijek (east Croatia).

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Despite working for the Austrians, he was a supporter of Croatian rights, and resigned when the Austrians refused to concede them. He left something beautiful to the city - a richly planted park with winding pathways, a pond, and an elevation giving great views of the sea. He died three years after it was completed, and the park was named after him - against his wishes.

Religious collection Silver and Gold of the City of Zadar (Zlato i srebro Zadra) B-3, Trg

opatice Čike 1, tel. (+38523) 25 04 96/(+385-23) 25 48 20. If you come to Zadar you must see the Forum and St Donatus. If you only see one other thing, make it the Silver and Gold of Zadar. It’s housed in the Benedictine convent of St Mary’s, where it has been guarded by nuns since the end of the Second World War. It forms the Permanent Exhibition of Religious Art, one of the most important cultural repositories in Croatia. The city has enjoyed various periods of flowering of arts and culture, and the work of local gold and silversmiths (including Italians and Venetians resident in the city) is absolutely stunning, spanning the millennium between the 8th and 18th Centuries. The collection includes reliquaries for either entire saints or parts of them (e.g. hands, arms and heads), crucifixes, paintings, and vestements interwoven with gold and silver thread. The collection is presented in intimate and atmospheric surroundings, and is guaranteed to leave the most resolute non-believer awestruck. On the

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ground floor there is also a reconstruction of the former chapel of St Nediljica and examples of Romanesque masonry. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00. Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Admission 15 - 20kn.

Silver Casket of St Simeon (Srebrna raka sv.

Šime) D-3, Trg Petra Zoranića 7, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 05. In the church of the same name, a gilded silver casket on the altar is raised on the outstretched arms of four bronze angels. It contains the remains of the popular saint-protector of the city. Commissioned in 1381 by Elizabeth, wife of Croat-Hungarian King Ludwig I of Anjou, it’s one of the finest examples of the work of Zadar’s silversmiths, and inside and out shows in intricate detail scenes from the saint’s life and the city’s history. Locals say that a merchant who was shipping the body of St Simeon from the Holy Land to Venice was caught in a storm, and sought shelter here. He fell ill, and before he died had the body buried, but told the nurses taking care of him that they would find something interesting in his documents. They found an inscription of the powers of the saint around his neck, and asked three local priests to dig up the grave that night. Not yet knowing the true nature of the occupant of the grave, visions appeared to them, and St Simeon has been revered in Zadar ever since. The silver casket of St. Simeon can be viewed daily and his remains will be shown to the public on his patron day, October the 8th. Q Open 08:30 - 12:00. The Sacred Art Collection of St Francis’ Monastery (Riznica samostana sv. Frane) Trg sv. Frane 1, tel.

(+385-23) 25 04 68. The monastery has a rich collection of religious art, highlights of which include a 12th century painted Romanesque crucifix and a 15th century polyptych from the island of Ugljan which is a fine example of Gothic painting in Croatia. There are also ancient incunabula, documents, liturgical vessels and more. QOpen 09:00 18:00. Admission 5 - 15kn.

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Mail & Phones Not to be missed Roman Forum (1st century AD)

Getting around Express mail City Ex N - 4, Put murvice 26 a, tel. (+385-23) 30 90 99, zadar@cityex.hr, www.cityex.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00,

Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N DHL E-1, Postrojbi specijalne policije 12, tel. (+385-23) 22 44 44/(+385-) 098 47 30 32, www.dhl.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

Internet places

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code breakdown, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course): Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s sixor seven-digit number, and place the greasy receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code (023 if you’re calling Zadar for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 9 or 10-digits and begin with either 091, 092, 095, 098 or 099. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Mobile phones Mobile phone use in Zadar is typical to most everywhere in Europe: they appear to be permanent growths that have attached themselves to ears or cheeks. Unique however, are the numerous and exciting tonal renditions of show-tunes and 80s glam-rock that shatter the most tranquil of moments. It seems that churches and cinemas remain the only structures holy enough to warrant the tragic silent-mode designation in this central European location. The networks that exist are VIP (091), T-Mobile (098) and Tele 2 (095) and their SIM cards can be bought all over the place. Buy pay-as-you-go cards in news kiosks, or top up at a cash machine. SIM Cards Purchase a Croatian SIM card from one of the following. They all have numerous selling points throughout the city if the below addresses aren’t convenient for you. T-Centar M-5, Polačišće 2, Relja, tel. (+385-) 0800 90 00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Tele 2 D-3, Andrije Medulića 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 38 09, www.tele2.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. VIP Centar E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 6b, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00, www.vipnet.hr. QOpen 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Zadar In Your Pocket

Acme B-3, Nikole Matafara 2a, tel. (+385-23) 25 07 08, klub@zadarsnova.hr. A big internet centre combined with a gallery space. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. 10kn / 30min, 15kn / 1h. Marina Dalmacija Bibinje - Sukošan (Elizabete Kotromanić11/1, Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 20 03 00, www.marinadalmacija.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. W Vip Internet caffe C-1, Obala kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-) 091 77 00. Q Open 07:00 - 06:00, Sun 08:00 - 06:00.

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where. Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box. These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town. Central Post office M-5, Kralja S. Držislava 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 68 41. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Post office B-3, Š.Kožičića Benje 1, tel. (+385-23) 25 05 06. June, September Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 13:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 07:30 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Post office L-4, J.J.Strossmayera 8, tel. (+385-23) 23 52 44. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

City codes Zagreb Split Šibenik Zadar Dubrovnik

01 021 022 023 020

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Postcrads

Croatia Abroad Croatia Abroad

3,10 kn 7,10 kn 1,60 kn 3,10 kn

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Getting around

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Getting around

The train station is right next to the bus station. Zadar is not particularly well connected with other Croatian cities by rail. There are two direct trains to Zagreb a day. As for train services to Split - don’t bother, it’s quicker by bus. Ticket prices are similar to those of buses. The ticket office is open 07:20 - 14:50. Closed Sat, Sun. Outside those times tickets can be bought on board the trains. The Croatian Railways website has English and German pages and a search facility. For international services, it connects you to the Deutsche Bahn website.

Buses Zadar Coach Station O-2, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-) 060 30 53 05, kontakt@liburnija-zadar.hr, www. liburnija-zadar.hr. The bus station is on the crossroads just east of the Old Town heading towards Split, Rijeka and Zagreb, and it’s a real hub with everything you need, including exchange offices, left luggage and ATMs. Coach travel is the cheapest and quickest option for those looking to explore the region on a shoestring. A huge number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations in all points of the compass. The general ticket office is open 05:40 - 22:00.

Car Rental AMC B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana bb, tel. (+385-23) 25

Public transport City bus services are run by Liburnija, and connect the Old Town with the main coach and train stations and all surrounding suburbs and beach areas. There is a ticket office outside the train and coach stations, open 07:00 - 14:00, Saturdays 07:00 - 12:00. There you can buy a ticket valid for two journeys for 13kn. Alternatively, buy tickets inside the bus (8kn for one trip). Liburnija, Ante Starčevića 1, tel. (+385-23) 060 30 53 05.

Taxi There are a multitude of taxi companies waiting to transport your person, for which privilege an equally varied array of prices apply, ranging from 19kn to 40kn for a 5km trip. Your safest bet is to ask the cost of the journey before entering the taxi.

43 01/(+385-) 099 634 93 27, zdd@amcrentacar. hr, www.amcrentacar.hr. Also at Zadar airport, tel. 34 84 15, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Avia D-2, Narodnog lista 2, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 79/ (+385-) 091 570 22 31, aviazadar@yahoo.com, www. avia-rentacar.hr. Also at Zadar airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 02, (+385-) 091 898 91 12, Open 08:00 - 21:00. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Dollar & Thrifty N-6, Bože Peričića 14 (Hotel Kolovare), tel. (+385-23) 31 57 33/(+385-) 098 42 48 91, zadar@ subrosa.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Hertz Zadar Airport, tel. (+385-23) 34 84 00/(+385-) 091 415 55 42, zadar.ap@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. A Lulić Ulica 159. brigade 10, tel. (+385-23) 24 22 24/ (+385-) 098 31 37 47, info@lulic.hr, www.lulic.hr. Also at Zadar Airport, tel. 34 84 32. Open 08:00 - 22:00. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A

Not to be missed

Parking

The Sea Organ - also called the orchestra of nature with stone steps, unique polyethylene tubes as well as channels and chambers which combine to make a distinctive instrument that produces eternal organ sounds based on the power and direction of waves.

Parking is limited by space in the old city, and by the fact that within the walls most of it is pedestianised. There are a few car parks inside, otherwise there are parking spaces alongside the city walls on the way to the ferry terminal. There is a somewhat larger car park on the mainland by the footbridge. See the map at the back of the guide. Disabled parking spaces are available in all car parks. Parking in Zadar every day from 1 Jul to 31 Aug, 08:00-22:00 is charged at the following rates: in Zone 1 - 12 kn/h; Zone 2 - 10 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h. From 1 Sept to 30 Jun charges are as follows: Zone 1 - 6 kn/h; Zone 2 - 4 kn/h; Zone 3 - 3 kn/h and Zone 4 - 2 kn/h; charges are applied every day except Sundays and bank holidays. Text Message Parking Croatia is proud to be the first country where you can pay for parking by text message! Look for the signs in parking areas - they should have a blue or white field. Simply send the registration number of your car as a text message (no spaces, no special characters) to 8231 ( zone 1), 8232 ( zone 2), 8233 (zone 3), 8234 (zone 4), 8236 (Petrčane zone). Your payment is confirmed when you get a message back from them.

Modul Auto R-1, Zagrebačka 90, tel. (+385-23) 34 36

30/(+385-) 091 222 26 92, modul-auto@zd.t-com.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Rent A - H Zadar L-5, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-

23) 23 66 00/(+385-) 098 41 43 22, rent-ah@zd.t-com. hr. Rent a scooter. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Terra G - 2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94/ (+385-23) 33 72 95, 33 72 96, info@terratravel.hr, www.terratravel.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A

Airport Zadar airport (Zračna luka Zadar) Zemunik Donji,

tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, info@zadar-airport.hr, www. zadar-airport.hr. Zadar’s small but modern airport is in Zemunik Donji, 9km southeast of the city. Croatia Airlines has domestic services to Pula and Zagreb and major European destinations. Charter flights also in summer. Liburnija runs buses between the terminal, the city bus station and the quayside near the ferryport on the Old Town peninsula. Bus lines are organised to connect with the flight timetable, and one-way tickets cost 25kn.

Airline offices Croatia Airlines Zadar Airport, Zemunik Donji, tel. (+385-23) 25 01 01, zadap@croatiaairlines.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

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Ferries Jadrolinija’s local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Zadar to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, so it’s well worth making the pleasant trip, and absolutely affordable. Not all services run daily, so do take care when studying the timetable, or ask for help at the Jadrolinija office. These routes are for car ferries unless otherwise stated. Catamarans do not take cars on board. Jadrolinija C-2, Liburnska obala 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 00, www.jadrolinija.hr. Q Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon, Wen and Fri Open 07:00 - 22:00. Miatours B-2, Vrata Sv. Krševana b.b., tel. (+385-23) 25 43 00/(+385-23) 25 44 00, info@miatours.hr, www. miatours.hr. NLP agent. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. A

Trains Central train station (Željeznički kolodvor) O-1, Ante Starčevića 4, tel. (+385-23) 21 25 55. National info line: 060 333 444 www.hznet.hr

Petrol stations Euro Petrol Petrčane Petrčane bb, tel. (+385-23) 36 44 34. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A INA - Put Murvice west O-1, Zagrebačka 35, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 28, www.ina.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A

INA - Voštarnica Kneza Branimira bb, tel. (+385-) 091 497 13 29, www.ina.hr. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. A

Zadar In Your Pocket

Not to be missed The City Gate (The Land Gate) – a masterpiece of the late renaissance period

zadar.inyourpocket.com

zadar.inyourpocket.com

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SPORT

Getting around Beaches

Harbourmasters’ office Lučka kapetanija K-5/B-2, Liburnska obala 8, tel. (+385-23) 25 48 88, milivoj.maricic@pomorstvo.hr.

Rent a bike Calimero M-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1, tel.

(+385-23) 31 10 10/(+385-) 098 189 55 28, www. calimero-sport.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Eurobike M/N-5, Franje Tuđmana 14, tel. (+385-23) 24 12 43. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Travel agencies Kompas B-2, Poljana Natka Nodila 9, tel. (+385-23)

25 43 04/(+385-23) 25 43 06, zadar@kompas.t-com. hr, www.kompas-travel.com. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. A Terra G-2, Matije Gupca 2a, tel. (+385-23) 33 72 94/ (+385-23) 33 72 95, 33 72 96, info@terratravel.hr, www.terratravel.hr. Rafting, bungee jumping... QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A TUI Generalturist E-2, Obala kneza Branimira 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 89 97, pzadar@generalturist.com, www. generalturist.com. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A

If you’re in the heart of Zadar and dying for a swim, you can head to the Riva, the promenade on the south side of the Old Town, it’s perfectly clean for swimming. The traditional town beach is, however, at Kolovare, east of the Old Town. Although the water is clean, unfortunately the pebble beach is not as attractive as it could be if someone would only pick up the pieces of brick and assorted rubble that have somehow found their way there. Kolovare beach does have good faciltites including cafes and restaurants, and is a good place to hang out, day or night. Behind Taverna Kolovare are public toilets and you can play table tennis in the shade. There are more secluded bathing spots all the way to the headland in the east. Borik is a very popular place to bathe, and this year will be much improved after extensive investment. It’s good for kids, as the bay is shallow with a sandy bottom, while the beach has had new shingle added this spring. The new aqua park is sure to be a big hit with kids. There are plenty of places for refreshments, watersports, beach games as well as toilets, showers and changing cubicles. The further west you walk from Borik, the quieter it gets. Diklo still has plenty of bars and restaurants, while Kožino is a refined area of villas.

www.inyourpocket.com Street smart Street Road Passage City centre

ulica cesta prolaz centar

Square Walk Way Station

trg šetalište put stanica

Bus lines In the sweltering heat of the Mediterranean summer the last thing that tourists need is to contemplate on how to get from A to B. Rest assured dear visitors as you can wipe the sweat of your brows as you’ll be pleased to know that Zadar has excellent connections to the rest of Croatia. All the major destinations are covered and if you do have any inquiries, simply check directly at the Zadar Bus Station or phone 060 30 53 05. Zadar is well connected to Zagreb with daily lines. For those wishing to travel closer to the Zadar surroundings there is a bus line for Benkovac at 07:00 and 17:45. Island hoppers who choose Vir as a destination won’t miss out as there is a bus line that comes from Zagreb and leaves Zadar at 19:30. In addition, there is also a line Čakovec-Vir that runs from May 31 until August 31 which stops in Zadar at 10:45 and continues through to Vir. The bus line Zagreb-Murter stops in Zadar and leaves for Murter at 07:30. If you’ve done your research you’ll know that Novalja is one of the hit party destinations

Zadar In Your Pocket

and therefore there is a bus that travels daily at 14:00 and 20:00. Take note as an additional line to Novalja is scheduled from June 1 until September 30 with a bus that departs at 17:00. With the new state of the art freeways built, the Zagreb-Split bus line is definitely the best way to travel time-wise. In saying that, there are also buses available for those who wish to take the lovely coastal route along the sea. As a bonus, this Zagreb-Split line does stop in Zadar. If you’re travelling south to Dubrovnik, there is a line from Trieste that arrives to Zadar at 00:55 and then proceeds further down. To the north of the country there are bus lines for the city of Rijeka. For the Istrian peninsula and the city of Pula the bus lines from Zadar depart at 08:00, 12:00 and 23:30. For the most eastern part of Croatia there is a bus line to Osijek which leaves Zadar at 23:00.

zadar.inyourpocket.com

If you have wheels, north of Zadar you choose either the crystal, pine-fringed waters at Petrčane, or sandy bays at Zaton, Nin and Privlaka. Zaton is particularly good for active types and families with children, as the holiday settlement has tons of sports and games going on, the beach is huge and the water is shallow. For those interested in culture, Nin is one of Croatia’s most ancient settlements and there are curative mud baths nearby. But definitely the best bathing awaits you on the islands. Closest is the island of Ošljak. One ferry a day stops there on the way to Preko on Ugljan (at 11:00) and picks you up at 18:00. But the further you venture, the better it gets. All the islands we feature in Around Zadar have their own little pieces of heaven. Hire a boat, and pick yours! And once you get to the quieter islands, of course, you can find secluded places where you can happily sun yourself au naturel, undisturbed.

Biking Zadar’s surroundings are ideal for a spot of hiking and biking even in high summer. The Ravni Kotari plains in the hinterland offer gentle terrain for a spot of touring. One of the oldest cycling routes is between Zadar and Benkovac, where you can experience local

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Tempo della signore ‘...back in the old days on the Croatian coast, the sunset used to be called tempo della signore; it was believed that the sun’s rays which beamed down at an angle made girls look all the more beautiful, adding to their complexion and tan...’’ Milorad Stojević: Tempo della signore hospitality in the surrounding villages and visit the ancient ruins of Asseria. The Nature Park and lake Vransko Jezero offer gentle terrain, though some routes pass canyons and higher spots where you can enjoy great views. The islands of Ugljan and Pašman have a particularly well-developed tradition of active tourism, and a number of routes cater both for those wanting a gentle sight-seeing tour allowing you to see some of the islands’ finest churches and monasteries, and for thrill-seekers demanding more challenging terrain. Pag island is excellent for intermediate cyclists, as it’s not too mountainous and there’s plenty to see and do. The best kicks and the most spectacular scenery are to be found in the Paklenica National Park. See “Zadar County” for more info on all of these, or call into the Zadar County Tourist Office, Sv. Leopolda B. Mandića 1, Zadar tel. (+385-23) 31 51 07, www.zadar.hr. Calimero bike shop M-5, Ulica II zasjedanja ZAVNOH-a 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 10 10, www.calimero-sport.hr. Bikes for sale and rent, servis. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Eurobike L-5, Obala kneza Branimira 6c, tel. (+385-23) 24 12 43. Bike purchase, service and rental, plus other sports equipment, including punchbags for when those family holidays are just getting too much. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Climbing The Paklenica National Park is an excellent choice for climbers. Stunning karst landscapes, rich flora and fauna and innumerable torrents combine to create a little piece of heaven. Add to that some challenging climbs on smooth rock and days bathed in brilliant sunshine overlooking the sea, and you’re sold (or at least we are). There is a 40km mountaineering trail, which takes about 2 days to travel. See peaks over 1600m high, steep-sided canyons, creeks with pools and waterfalls and water so clean you can drink it - it tastes great. Famous peak Anića Kuk has a challenging smooth 400m high cliff which attracts the greatest number of climbers. One of the most beautiful mountain refuges is Vlaški Grad at 1260m. There are a great number of routes for hikers, climbers and mountain bikers. The Paklenica National Park authorities can provide you with full lists. Also check out www.summitpost.org for excellent pictures, information and advice.

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SPORT Paklenica National Park Dr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad

- PaklenicaPaklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/ (+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr, www. paklenica.hr. Q 1-day ticket 20 - 40kn, 3-day ticket 80kn, 5-day ticket 120kn.

Fishing Lake Vransko is well-stocked and offers peaceful surroundings for fisher-persons. To fish anywhere, you need a licence - costing from 70kn per day. Call into your local tourist office - take some ID with you.

Horse riding Take in the scenery while someone else does the hard work. Konjički centar Libertas Zaton Holliday Resort, Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 47 22 27, info@horse-center-libertas. hr, www.horse-center-libertas.hr. Q May - Septemeber Open 07:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 22:00. Konjički klub Epona N/O-1, Hrvatskog sabora 1, tel. (+385-) 099 673 71 06. QOpen 16:00 - 22:00.

Marinas ACI Šimuni Kolan, Pag Island, tel. (+385-23) 69 74

57, m.simuni@aci-club.hr, www.aci-club.hr. 200 berths, 60 places on land, a 15t crane and slipway for vessels up to 8m. QReception Open 08:00 - 20:00, June - August 31 Open 07:30 - 21:30. Benjamin Marina Iž Island - Veli Iž bb, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 06/(+385-) 091 576 53 11, sinisakulisic@gmail. com. A small marina on peaceful Iž island, in a lovely little bay and with a good restaurant. Q Reception Open 07:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Marina Biograd Bukovačka bb, Biograd, tel. (+38523) 38 61 22, marina.biograd@zd.t-com.hr. Biograd’s new dry marina is the place to keep your baby under wraps over winter. 24 hour surveillance and maintenance services. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Marina Borik G-5, Obala kneza Domagoja 1, tel. (+38523) 33 30 36, info@marinaborik.hr, www.marinaborik.hr. Facilities include a 20 ton travel lift, boat care services, 50 land storage spaces. Right by the Borik hotel complex with great accommodation, an aquapark and bars, restaurants and entertainments close by. Q Open 07:30 - 20:00, Mon 07:30 - 14:30, 16:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

SPORT Marina Dalmacija G-5, Bibinje - Sukošan (Elizabete Kotromanić11/1, Zadar), tel. (+385-23) 20 03 00, info@marinadalmacija.hr, www.marinadalmacija.hr. A beautifully laid out Blue Flag marina near a beach resort with a nice old centre just a few kilometres south of Zadar. Don’t miss ancient Konoba Kaleta - see “Where to eat”. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Marina Kornati Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 38 00, info@marinakornati.com, www.marinakornati.com. A full service marina close to the Kornati National Park, in the lively resort of Biograd. The marina is backed by three hotels, the Adriatic, Ilirija and Kornati, owned by the same company as the marina. See “Where to stay” under “Out of town”. Charter available. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00. Marina Zadar B-1, Ivana Meštrovića 2, tel. (+385-23) 33 27 00/(+385-23) 20 48 62, marina@tankerkomerc. hr, www.tankerkomerc.hr. This is the marina closest to the old centre of Zadar. 300 sea and 200 dry berths, a restaurant with a great sunset view and secure parking. Charter available. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. W

Rafting In the mountains just east of Zadar is the beautiful greenblue river Zrmanja, with rushing torrents, small waterfalls and canyons making for a spectacular, exciting and refreshing ride. Bora Tours F-4, Majstora Radovana 7, tel. (+385-23) 33 77 60, info@boratours.net. They also organise rafting, kayaking and canoeing expeditions. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 20:00. A

Sailing There’s no better way to spend your holiday. Why? 1. You can go faster. 2. You can get to paradise beaches where nobody else goes. 3. The cool sea breeze. 4. It’s great. Need we say more? Euromarine Šetalište kneza Branimira 1, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 48 55, biograd@euromarine.hr, www. euromarine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A Uskok H-4, Obala kneza Trpimira bb, tel. (+385-23) 33 10 76/(+385-23) 33 78 30, office@uskok.biz.hr, www. uskok.biz.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N

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Yacht Club Biograd Kralja Petra Svačića 17, tel.

(+385-23) 38 53 35, info@yc-biograd.com, www.ycbiograd.com.

Scuba diving “Under the seeea... under the seeea... there’ll be no accusations, just friendly crustaceans...” Homer Simpson. Homer knew what he was talking about, it’s another world down there, where you can forget your troubles. The Adriatic, one of the cleanest seas in Europe, is perfect for learning to dive and getting acquainted with the watery underworld. Here’s where you can do it. Albamaris Ivane B. Mažuranić 4, Biograd, tel. (+38523) 38 54 35/(+385-) 098 193 53 30, 099 353 47 83, info@albamaris.hr, www.albamaris.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Scuba Adriatic M-3, Zaton Holiday Resor t, tel. (+385-) 098 68 69 99/(+385-) 098 27 38 31, info@ scubaadriatic.com, www.scubaadriatic.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Zadar Sub N-2, Dubrovačka 20a, tel. (+385-23) 21 48 48/(+385-) 099 530 04 78, zadarsub@zadarsub.hr, www.zadarsub.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. A Zlatna luka Marina Dalmacija, Sukošan, tel. (+385-) 091 252 80 21, info@diving-zlatnaluka.net, www.divingzlatnaluka.net. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. N

Not to be missed This year’s Croatian UNESCO nomination for the World Heritage List is the sacral monument on the ruins of the Roman Forum in Zadar.

Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Tennis Tennis club Zadar I-3/4, Sutomiška ulica 1 (uvala Draženica), tel. (+385-23) 33 20 22. QOpen 08:00 23:00. 45kn / per hour.

Windsurfing Although the waters around Zadar are rather calm for adrenaline surfing, there are places where you can hone your skills, or learn the basics. Surfmania centre Kraljičina beach, Sabunike, Nin, tel. (+385-) 098 912 98 18, info@surfmania.hr, www. surfmania.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Sport events 02.07. State Open Water Championship in long distance swimming Riva 08.07. ISAF Youth Sailing World Championship Jazine 10.07. Aquathlon Zadar Sea Organ/Riva 15.07 - 25.07. Waterpolo tournament Riva Summer 2011

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Shopping Shopping centres City Galleria N-5, Murvička 1, tel. (+385-23) 30 01 00, www.citygalleria.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Open

09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. June - August 31 Open 09:00 -21:00. P Supernova Centar Zadar Akcije Maslenica 1, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. June - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00.

Antiques A city that once thrived on trade and merchants, now gives you the opportunity to find that very unique treasure. As you enter the Old Town, through the City Gates and across the bridge, choose from the huge selection of Dalmatian fortunes or dare we say bargains that are on sale. Jurja Barakovića Street, daily 09:00-14:00 and 17:00 -21:00.

Art Galleries Anima C-3, Vladimira Papafave 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 78 01/(+385-) 091 545 19 50, www.anima.hr. Paintings and postcards by well-known local artist Zoran Debelić. Dalmatian themes. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A Bambola C-3, Ul plemića Borelli 7, tel. (+385-23) 31 86 10. Gifts and stationery aimed at younger tastes. Q Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - September Open 08:30 - 23:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00. A More B-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 16 24/ (+385-) 098 955 80 12. Croatian souvenirs. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. A Museum of Ancient Glass Shop D-2, Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1, tel. (+385-23) 36 38 31, www. mas-zadar.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Shopping Pia C-3, Madijevaca 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 14 60. Paintings, ceramics, lamps, bags and more made by Croatian and Zadar artisans. The staff will also help you with tourist information. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Studio Lik D-3, Don Ive Prodana 7, tel. (+385-) 098 27 34 73. Traditional hand-made lace from Pag island and Lepoglava (Slavonia); Konavoski woven textiles from Dubrovnik; traditional Croatian sheepskin slippers. Handmade glassware, ceramics and textiles. Q Open 09:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Val B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 20, tel. (+385-23) 23 57 91. No, it’s not the name of the owner of unspecified gender, val means “wave”. Distinctive paintings by Zadar artist Silviana Dražević, and jewellery by her brother Ivan. Q Open 09:00 12:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Bookshops Algoritam N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+38523) 49 30 50, www.algoritam.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,

Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. June - August 31 Open 09:00 -21:00. A VBZ F-6, Knezova Šubića Bribirskih 10, tel. (+385-23) 25 45 50, www.vbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Delicatessen shop The first thing that comes to a Croatian’s mind when they hear the name Pag is sheep. The second is salt. The barren, sunbaked terrain means that the herbs that the sheep munch on are salty and highly aromatic, lending a special flavour to their milk. Which makes great cheese. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. Many restaurants pass off rubbery, bland cheese resembling Edam as Pag cheese and thus deserve a good slapping. The real

Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying Paški sir. Pršut is to Croatia what Prosciutto di Parma is to Italy. (And they are essentially the same thing: cured ham - a tastebud-tingling delicacy). Dalmatian Pršut can be dry and salty or butter-soft and mild. It’s difficult to go wrong, they’re all good, but the factory at Posedarje (just inland from Zadar) has been collecting international awards left, right and centre for its offering. Give yourself a lunchtime treat of pršut with fresh white bread, butter, home-grown tomatoes, local olive oil, a handful of olives and a good glass of red wine. Bibich C-3, Kraljskog Dalmatina 7, tel. (+385-23) 25 02 46, alen.bibic@zd.htnet.hr. A wine warehouse with a good selection of gourmet products and gifts. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00. Closed Sun. A Crodelice D-3, Elizabete Kotromanić 2, tel. (+385-23) 31 55 66, info@crodelice.com, www.crodelice.com. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. A Delikatese Lukin N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria). QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 -12:00. Dobra vina N-5, Murvička 1 (City Galleria), tel. (+38523) 29 90 44, info@dobravina.hr, www.dobravina.hr. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Gligora N-5, Murvička 1(City Galleria), tel. (+385-23) 31 33 96, sirena@sirena.hr, www.sirena.hr. Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses. QOpen 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:30 - 12:00. A Maraska B-3, Mate Karamana 3, www.maraska.hr. Purveyors of alcoholic and non-alcoholic renditions of the Maraschino cherry; plus a selection of other potions to soften your vocal chords and your general view of humanity. Other groceries available too. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. N Olvin N-5, Ljudevita Posavskog 35. A company producing its own high-quality olive oil, also selling wines and juices. QOpen 07:00 - 14:30, Sat 07:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. N Uljara Joskro K-1, Put Bokanjca 24, tel. (+385-23) 32 22 25/(+385-) 098 27 39 38, joskro1@zd.t-com.hr. This family sell their own olive oil, plus anchovies and cows’ and goats’ milk cheese marinated in olive oil. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Nature Cosmetics L’Occitane D-3, Narodni trg 3, tel. (+385-23) 70 04 04. Also at Supernova Centar Zadar, tel.70 03 93 QOpen

08:00 - 21:00. JA Zdravi kutak D-3, Elizabete Kotromanić 7, tel. (+38523) 30 56 12, www.zdravikutak.com. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. JA

Nautical supplies Adriana Šport B-2, Liburnska obala 6, tel. (+385-23) 25 09 68. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. N Big Blue L-4, J.J.Strossmayera bb, tel. (+385-23) 23 59 24. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Lalizas Marina B-3, Jurja Bijankinija 9, tel. (+385-23) 25 44 58. Q Open 08:00 - 12:30, 17:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Udica C-1, Obala kneza Branimira 14, tel. (+385-23) 30 53 98. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

Foreign newspapers For foreign daily papers (German and Italian editions tend to be easiest to come by) try the Slobodna Dalmacija kiosk on the mainland side of the bridge to the Old Town - Stjepana Radića bb. (D-1). Also at: Obala kneza Branimira bb (D-1), and Miroslava Krleže bb (B-1)and Tisak shop at Ulica plemića Borelli 25 (C-3).

Zadar In Your Pocket

zadar.inyourpocket.com

zadar.inyourpocket.com

Jewellery designer Antonija Gospić runs workshops in the Museum of Ancient Glass, and you can buy her designs in Marival, Ulica Don Ive Prodovana.

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Business directory

Lifestyle directory

Business connections HGK - Županijska komora Zadar (Croatian Chamber of Economy - Zadar Chamber) D-3, Špire

Brusine 16, tel. (+385-23) 21 17 47, hgkzd@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. The Zadar branch of the Croatian Chamber of Commerce. QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Obrtnička komora Zadarske županije C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-23) 31 92 24/(+385-23) 31 92 73, ok.zadar@hok.hr. The County Chamber of Trade. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Consulates Ukraine O - 5, Ulica kralja Tvrtka 3, tel. (+385-23) 789 29 88, consul.malic@gmail.com. Q Open Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.

Interpreters & Translators Acro D-3, Špire Brusine 13, tel. (+385-23) 31 43 99, acro@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Geo K-2, Put Vukića 23, tel. (+385-23) 31 27 58/

(+385-) 098 964 24 34, jasminka.bajlo@zd.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Real estate Chonic D-3, Špire Brusine 10/I, tel. (+385-23) 31 16

Banks & Exchanges Aquarius D-2, Nova vrata bb, tel. (+385-23) 21 29 19, juresko@zd.t-com.hr, www.juresko.hr. Q June,

September Open 07:30 - 22:00. July, August Open 07:30 - 24:00. Erste & Steiemarkische Bank C-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-) 062 37 46 60, www.erstebank.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Hypo Alpe-Adria Bank D-3, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel. (+385-23) 36 39 20, www.hypo-alpe-adria.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. OTP B-3, Široka ulica 1, tel. (+385-) 062 20 14 10, www.otpbanka.hr. Q June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. September 16 - June 14 Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Privredna banka C-3, Široka ulica bb, tel. (+385-23) 22 30 64, www.pbz.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Raiffeisen Bank D-1, Ul. bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-23) 72 31 00, www.rba.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Zagrebačka banka C-2, Brne Karnarutića 13, tel. (+385-23) 20 83 02/(+385-23) 20 83 03, www.zaba. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

67/(+385-) 098 73 60 59, 091 564 62 10, www.chonicnekretnine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Gea D-3, Široka ulica 10/1, tel. (+385-23) 25 11 33/ (+385-23) 25 10 69, gea3@zd.t-com.hr, www.gea.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Palmes Ugljan 22, Ugljan Island, tel. (+385-23) 28 80 27/(+385-) 098 187 15 30, palmes@palmes-nekretnine. hr, www.palmes-nekretnine.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Phoenix I-4, Strossmayerova 6a, tel. (+385-23) 23 91 39, 23 91 41/(+385-) 091 235 92 33, info@nekretninephoenix.hr, www.nekretnine-phoenix.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Sanmark D-2, Jurja Barakovića 4, tel. (+385-) 098 71 42 40, sanmark@sanmark.hr, www.sanmark.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Tax free heaven Save money when you buy souvenirs and other stuff to take back home. Look for the “Tax Free” label on shop windows, or ask at the counter. When you buy goods totalling 500kn or more, they’ll give you a form. Get it stamped when you leave the country, and you’re entitled to a tax refund – follow the instructions on the form.

Dry cleaners & Laundries Etilen N - 6, Ljudevita Posavskog 3, tel. (+385-23) 21 49 04. Dry cleaners and laundries. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Gobin D-3, Don Ive Prodana 9, tel. (+385-23) 21 34 71. Dry cleaners. Q Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. V

Lotos J - 3, Ivana Gundulića 4d, tel. (+385-23) 33 51 40. Laundries. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun.

Emergency health care Hitna medicinska pomoć B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 28a, tel. (+385-23) 23 98 11. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Hospital Hospital Zadar N-6, Bože Peričića 5, tel. (+385-23) 50

55 05, opca-bolnica-zadar@zd.t-com.hr, www.bolnicazadar.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Pharmacies Kadulja B-1, Ivana Mažuranića 22, tel. (+385-23) 23

58 63. A “biljna drogerija” is a herbal pharmacy, a popular concept in Croatia since the beginning of time. Here you’ll find medicinal teas, vitamins, health foods, essential oils and natural cosmetics from companies such as Dr Hauschka. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, Tue, Thu 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. N Ljekarna Centar D-3, Jurja Barakovića 2, tel. (+38523) 30 29 20. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Ljekarna Donat C-3, Braće Vranjanina bb, tel. (+38523) 25 13 42/(+385-23) 25 14 80. QOpen 07:00 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Ljekarna Voštarnica D-1, Bana Josipa Jelačića 6a, tel. (+385-23) 23 12 05. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:30 13:30. Closed Sun. A

Animalia L-2, Pašmanski prilaz 2, tel. (+385-23) 32 36 25/(+385-) 091 563 01 61, animalia@zd.t-com.hr, www.animalia.hr. The name says it all and if you’ve brought your pet along with you, then let it be known that the ER services here range from the diagnosing and treating of pets, including contagious and parasite diseases, shots, laboratory tests as well as surgical and aesthetic operations. Animalia has everything your four-legged companion may ever need! Emergencies can be dealt with by phone 091 563 01 61. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Pet Club N-2, Zrinsko Frankopanska 14, tel. (+385-23) 31 23 08, info@petclubzadar.com, www.petclubzadar. com. Veterinary pharmacy. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Veterinarska stanica K-2, Put Bokanjca bb, tel. (+385-23) 32 28 77. Animal clinic. For an emergency call 098 33 94 00. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Zoo - Vet R-4, Biogradska 65, tel. (+385-23) 21 42 95, www.zoo-vet.hr. Sounds like the stuff reality shows are made of! For an emergency call 091 214 29 55. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Photocopying Pharos C-3, Široka ulica 6, tel. (+385-23) 31 70 54, pharos@zd.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Trimat grafika D-3, Majke Margarite 3, tel. (+385-

23) 31 43 73/(+385-23) 30 07 60, grafika@trimat.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Brokerage houses

Police station

OTP B-3, Domovinskog rata 3, tel. (+385-) 062 20 16 74, www.otpbanka.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

Police station C-3, Zore Dalmatinske 1, tel. (+385-23) 34 51 41, pitanja@mup.hr, www.zadarska.policija.hr.

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birdwatching in croatia

birdwatching in croatia

Darko Podravec Note: this is not a specialist or expert text on birdwatching but a general overview of birdwatching in Croatia. The text has been prepared in cooperation with the web portal www. ptice.net and with the kind assistance of Mr Darko Podravec, with our thanks. Birdwatching in Croatia is only recently gaining in popularity, partly due to the interest shown by visitors from other European countries, notably Great Britain. However, local ornithological societies and other organisations, including schools, are also making a significant contribution through monitoring the numbers of birds, organising volunteer camps for tagging birds and raising awareness about the need not only to protect birds but the environment as a whole. According to data from the State Directorate for the Protection of Nature and the Environment, in December 1999, there were 371 bird species in Croatia, an exceptionally high number for a country of this size. There are 228 nesting species, of which 78 are registered as endangered species in Europe. At the same time, Croatia has an exceptionally high number of endangered species due to disappearing habitats, especially wetlands, and due to poaching. The majority of protected species are to be found in hard-to-reach areas such as mountain peaks, cliff faces and gorges, and areas such as the Neretva delata on the Adriatic coast and along the Sava and Drava rivers in the north, as well as close to the large fish farms to be found in Pannonian Croatia. Today in Croatia there are 19 bird reserves engaged in nature protection in areas where there are large bird populations, large numbers of species of birds, or where endangered species are to be found. Birdlife International has identified 23

The first bird reserve in Croatia Krapje đol, not far from the villages of Krapje and Jasenovac in central Croatia, was designated a bird reserve in 1963. Here, a tributary of the River Sava provides ideal nesting conditions for the Eurasian Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia). The tributary sadly dried up due to the construction of an embankment and became overgrown. However, the species which nest here, which are rare both in European and global terms, have been saved thanks to a canal which was built to restore the flow of water.

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Important Bird Areas in Croatia, while the State Directorate for the Protection of Nature and the Environment has recognised 40 areas which are important for bird life. Some of these areas are bird reserves, some form parts of national parks or nature parks, while others do not enjoy any form of protection. Although there are birdwatching opportunities all year round, the liveliest seasons are spring and autumn. Autumn signals both the departure of species that nest in Croatia and the arrival of visitors from northern Europe and Asia. In spring, the species that spend their winters in the warmer climes of Africa return to nest. At any time, you might spot a species that is just passing through en route to somewhere else: Croatia is a bottleneck on the migratory route to and from Africa for a large number of European bird species. There are guide books available to help you identify species and understand their behaviour. The best times of the day for birdwatching are the early morning and early evening. At these times, birds are at their most active, especially during the summer when birds, like people, avoid the hottest part of the day. Of course, if you do go birdwatching, it’s vital to take care not to disturb the birds. Large numbers of visitors to national parks, nature parks and bird reserves may be distressing to their inhabitants, and disturbing the birds prevents us from being able to observe their natural behaviour. It is advisable to avoid getting too close to bird nests, since you risk the parents abandoning the nests, which is disastrous, especially where endangered species are concerned. The equipment you need for birdwatching includes good quality binoculars and a handbook which classifies birds by species. You’ll also be glad of a good camera and sensible clothing. Obviously, you should avoid bright colours which will scare the birds away. Many birdwatchers pass on the information they collect to the institutions responsible for the protection of birds or to ornithological societies, which is of great help to these organisations in monitoring changes in the number of birds, in their behaviour and habitats. Since birdwatching in Croatia is still not very common, below we list a range of organisations which might be of interest to nature lovers, although there might neither be much information about birds in specific nor professional guides. Before visiting any protected area, we ask you to please contact the organisation responsible, which will give you any instructions and warnings necessary to protect fragile habitats, enabling as many people as possible to enjoy the beauty of nature as well as learning how to protect it.

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Lake Vrana Nature Park / Lake Vrana Bird Reserve Lake Vrana lies alongside the coast road between Zadar and Šibenik, or more precisely, between Pirovac and Pakoštane. 241 bird species have been logged in the area of the Nature Park, 102 of which nest here. This is a good place to spot the Purple Heron (Ardea purpurea), Great Bittern (Botaurus stellaris), Corncrake (Crex crex) and Squacco Heron (Ardeola ralloides), all endangered species in Europe. The Park staff can organise visits on foot or by boat to birdwatching sites upon request. The price of a visit, complete with an expert guide, is 100kn/h per person, and the trip can take up to five hours. Entry tickets to the Nature Park are also payable (20kn adults, children 7 - 18, 10kn). Visitors should bring their own birdwatching equipment, and call ahead to announce group visits. Lake Vrana Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića 2, Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, 38 64 52, pp-vransko-jezero@ zd.t-com,www.vransko-jezero.hr. Pag island The island of Pag is home to the following bird reserves: Kolansko blato, Blato Rogoza, Veliko blato and Malo blato. All of these are marshlands which are home to species including the Gadwall (Anas strepera), Montagu’s Harrier (Circus pygargus) and Calandra Lark (Melanocorypha calandra), which are endangered in Europe. Call into the Tourist Association in Povljana to buy entry tickets for the Veliko blato reserve, which has a hide with a checklist. Povljana Tourist Association Stjepana Radića 20, Povljana, tel. (+385-23) 69 20 03, (+385)098 184 21 29, tz-povljana@zd.t-com.hr, www.tz-povljana.hr. Kolan Tourist Association Trg kralja Tomislava, Kolan, tel. (+385-23) 69 82 90, info@tzkolan-mandre.com, www. tzkolan-mandre.com. Telašćica Nature Park This fantastic nature park in the Telašćica Bay on Dugi Otok is also designated an Important Bird Area. 110 bird species have been sighted here. Perhaps the most exciting birds to spot are birds of prey such as the Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus). The Park is accessible by boats laid on by travel agencies and private boat owners, or from dry land from the town of Sali. Entry tickets cost 28 - 60kn. If you require a guide, please phone one week in advance. Telašćica Nature Park Ulica Danijela Grbin bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23)37 70 96, 37 73 95, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www.telascica.hr. Kornati National Park A national park made up of some 90 islands, islets and reefs spanning the area between Biograd and Šibenik. The land is owned by the residents

Fun for the whole family zadar.inyourpocket.com of the surrounding islands. This is also an Important Bird Area, although it’s insufficiently researched with respect to fauna and flora so there are no accurate data on numbers of species. In common with other island habitats, owls, seagulls and the European Shag (no tittering, you at the back) can be spotted here. You can visit Kornati if you have your own boat, or as part of a trip organised by a travel agencies and private boat owners in the areas of Šibenik, Murter, Zadar, Biograd and the islands in the Zadar area. Tickets are for sale in the Park itself and in local travel agencies, and cost 150 - 1500kn depending on the size of the boat. There are no guided tours.

Darko Podravec

Waterbird Census Bird lovers can take part in the International Winter Waterbird Census, organised by Wetlands International on a global level. Taking place over three weeks at the beginning of January every year, the census aims to collect information on the ever more endangered bird species that inhabit marshes and other wetland habitats, as well as on species that nest in the far northern regions of Europe and Asia. Read more on www.wetlands.org.

Darko Podravec

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birdwatching in croatia EuroBirdwatch Bird lovers by now have a date in their diary every year for the first weekend in October, when the annual EuroBirdwatch is held. Organised by BirdLife, a global partnership of conservation organisations, the event aims to raise awareness of issues related to bird migration, to promote protection of endangered bird species and to recruit new members for the partner organisations. See www.birdlife.org.

Darko Podravec Kornati National Park Butina 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 40, kornati@kornati.hr, www.kornati.hr. Paklenica National Park The Paklenica National Park occupies the coastal part of the southern Velebit mountains. The Park is famous for the large difference in altitudes you cross as you travel through it, complete with changes in climate, all in a relatively small area. Bird species you might spot on the rock and cliff faces include the Rock Nuthatch (Sitta neumayer) and the Blue

Fishing on the Adriatic

Rock Thrush (Monticola solitarius). Rare and endangered birds of prey to be found here include the Golden Eagle (Aquila chrysaetos), Peregrine Falcon (Falco peregrinus), Short-Toed Eagle (Circaetus gallicus) and Goshawk (Accipiter gentiles). Entry tickets to the park cost 40kn depending on the time of year. Birdwatching as an individual is not permitted: please call ahead to organise a tour with one of the Park’s official guides. Paklenica National Park dr. F. Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02, prezentacija@paklenica. hr, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr, www.paklenica.hr. Velebit Nature Park / Northern Velebit National Park The Velebit is the longest mountain range in Croatia, stretching 145km from Vratnik near Senj to the River Zrmanja near Zadar. It is not classified as an Important Bird Area, nor does it have any bird reserves, but it does encompass three Parks: the Northern Velebit National Park, the Velebit Nature Park and the Paklenica National Park. It has two strict nature reserves (both in the Northern Velebit National Park) as well as nature reserves for plant life, and the area is rich in flora and fauna. Nesting sides of the following birds are to be found here: the Eurasian Pygmy Owl (Glaucidium passerinum), the Ortolan Bunting (Emberiza hortulana), the Western Capercaillie or Wood Grouse (Tetrao urogallus), White Backed Woodpecker (Dendrocopus leucotos) and the the Boreal Owl (Aegolius funereus). Velebit National Park Kaniža Gospićka 4b, Gospić, tel. (+385-53) 56 04 50, Krasno office (+385-53) 85 16 00, Obrovac office (+385-23)68 98 18, velebit@pp-velebit. hr, www.pp-velebit.hr. Northern Velebit Nature Park Krasno 96, Krasno, tel. (+385-53) 66 53 80, npsv@np-sjeverni-velebit.hr, www. np-sjeverni-velebit.hr. Senj Info Centre Obala kralja Zvonimira, tel.(+385-53) 88 45 51. There are no organised birdwatching activities. Val agency This travel agency organises birdwatching tours over several days in Dalmatia during the spring and autumn migrating seasons. Please check www.croatiabirding.com for details, dates and prices. Val-tours, Trg hrvatskih velikana bb, Biograd n/m, tel. (+385-23) 38 64 79, info@val-tours.hr,www.val-tours.hr.

Darko Podravec

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There are over 400 species of fish native to the Adriatic, and if you’re hunting for your lunch or dinner in a local restaurant you’ll most likely “catch” orada (sea bass), brancin (sea bream), arbun (common pandora), skuša (mackerel), lokarda (chub mackerel), srdele (sardines), papaline (sprats), škarpina (scorpion fish), trlja (red mullet), ušata (saddled seabream), pic (sharpsnout seabream), zubatac (dentex), grdobina (monkfish), and kovač (John Dory). However, because of various threats presented by mankind such as pollution, overfishing and increasingly intensive tourism, more and more species native to the Adriatic are endangered. The following species have protected status in Croatia: the ocean sunfish (lat. Mola mola), fan mussel (Pinna nobilis), date mussel (Lithophaga lithophaga), Caspian gull (Larus cachinnans), green wrasse (Labrus viridis), sea cucumber (Holothurioidea), Mediterranean monkseal (Monachus monachus), common bottlenose dolphin (Tursiops truncates), common dolphin (Delphinus delphis), the whale, the sea turtle, the shellfish Dolium galea and Mitra zonata, the large sea snail Triton’s Trumpet (Charonia tritonis), and Neptune Grass (Posidonia oceanica).

Nedo Buljan “The gods do not subtract from the allotted span of men’s lives the hours spent on fishing.” - Assyrian proverb The Croatian Adriatic is among cleanest seas in Europe. Add to that its warmth, shallowness, and lack of strong tides and currents, and you have an ideal environment for the joys of recreational fishing. Croatia is often called “the country of a thousand islands” due to its 66 islands, 652 islets, 389 rocks and 78 reefs. The waters of the Adriatic are rich in fish, aquatic mammals, seaweed, plankton, shellfish, crabs and sponges. It’s no wonder that the tradition of fishing here goes back millennia. Apart from being a vital industry and a traditional way of life, fishing today for many people provides an ideal way to relax and reconnect with nature. Fishing techniques tend to be passed down through generations, and you’ll often see grandparents and grandchildren heading out happily together to catch fish. The locals, of course, know the best tips and tricks for their particular waters, and will usually be glad to help and advise you. Keen anglers will find all kinds of fishing opportunities in Croatia due to the diversity of the coastal terrain. Just some of the places you might like to explore include: the islands of Mali Lošinj, Jabuka, Svetac and Mali Ždrelac; the channel that connects the Zadar and the Central channels; and the Bay of Pag, where there are so many fish that you can exceed your legal fishing limit with alarming ease. Then there’s the Tri Sestrice islets near Zadar and the entire Zadar archipelago. Lovers of spearfishing will find their nirvana in the mystical depths around the islands of Glavat and Molunat. You can also have unique fishing experiences off the coast of the Pelješac peninsula and close to the island of Šolta, a spot so beloved of Roman emperor Diocletian that he ordered fish ponds be built on the island. You might be lucky enough to spot a Mediterranean monk seal, one of the world’s most endangered species, which is often spotted around Šolta.

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Nedo Buljan There are several ways to fish at sea, and most people take part in sea fishing for sport and recreation. Whichever kind of fishing you want to enjoy, you must first make sure you take care of the paperwork. You can buy permits covering one day (60kn), three days (150kn), seven days (300kn) and one month (700kn), while Croatian citizens and foreigners with temporary residence in Croatia can buy one year permits. Prices are subject to change, and are the same for sport and recreational licences. When buying a sports licence you must also purchase a membership card of the Croatian Sea Sport Fishing Association, which costs 50kn. Licences can be bought at offices of the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries and Rural Development in Pula, Rijeka, Senj, Zadar, Šibenik, Split, Ploče and Dubrovnik; in travel agencies, harbourmasters’ offices and from authorized resellers; while the membership card of the Sport Fishing Association is bought from the organization itself. You can find a list showing where to buy recreational licences at the Minstry’s website,www.mps.hr, which has English pages. For the sport fishing licence and membership, see www.hssrm. hr/mjesta-prodaja-dozvola.html Fishing is not allowed in special reservations, in harbours or on beaches between 1 June and 1 October. There are special regulations governing fishing in national parks. The maximum

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Fishing on the Adriatic

Nedo Buljan daily catch is 5kg for recreational and sport licences, and you may not sell or exchange your catch. There is also a list of regulations on the protection of fish species which stipulates the minimum size of commercially important fish and other sea creatures that may be caught. If you accidentally find a female spiny lobster in your net, or a European lobster with eggs, you must immediately put them back in the sea regardless of their size. Most people go fishing from a quiet spot on the shore or from a small fishing boat, while adrenalin seekers go for either big game fishing or spearfishing. Big game fishing is an exciting sport using fast boats on the open sea to catch powerful fish such as tuna and marlin. Licences are for sale in travel agencies. The largest and most prized catch on the Croatian Adriatic is bluefin tuna, which is in season from August to January. The belt of water around the island of Blitvenica and the Kornati archipelago is especially suitable for bluefin tuna fishing. Other “big game” which can be caught in this way include swordfish (sabljarka), greater amberjack (gof ), Atlantic bonito (palamida), dolphin fish (lampuga), and blue shark (modrulj).

Zadar county

The beauty of this sport is its unpredictable nature and the co-ordination of the whole crew on board the boat. If you visit the village of Jezera on the island of Murter, you can watch (or take part in) Europe’s largest big game fishing competition. Spearfishing is the most selective form of fishing. You can fish while free diving, snorkelling or scuba diving, and nowadays anglers use elastic-powered or compressed gas spearguns or slings to hunt the fish. Spearfishing can only take place during the daylight hours for obvious reasons, and the sport requires you to be both physically and psychologically fit due to both the diving skills required and the weapon used. In the Adriatic, the best spearfishing is to be had in late summer and early autumn. The best fish is to be found where the sea has a rocky bottom, providing shelter for the fish. The best-known spearfishing competition in the Adriatic is the New Year Spearfishing Cup held on the island of Mali Lošinj.

Islands Don’t make the mistake of missing some of these great places in Zadar’s surrounding areas. Many of them are somewhat neglected by guide books, and therefore all the more delightful to discover.

Dugi otok Although it’s easily accessible from Zadar by boat, Croatia’s “Long Island” is rather far out to sea, and so remains one of those few places where you can enjoy tranquillity even in high season. Its capital, Sali, is a simple, historic and attractive fishing town with a summer cultural festival running from mid-July to mid-August. The climax of this is a festival called Saljski užanci - three days of music, fireworks, fresh grilled fish, drinking, dancing, donkey racing and parades in traditional local costume in a friendly atmosphere. The festivites sometimes get rather wild and climax in revellers leaping into the sea in full national costume! Another unique element is the strange and haunting folk music of the island, played on old irons filled with stones, and on enormous horns poached from some poor beast.

Nedo Buljan Finally, don’t forget, whichever kind of fishing you go for, it’s important for your sake and everyone else’s that you keep within the law and fish in a responsible and ethical manner. We wish you calm seas and a plentiful catch!

If that all sounds too hectic, head for the smaller village of Božava. The exceptionally clean sea makes it a haven for divers. Nearby is a white sand beach called Saharun. There are other sandy beaches in this area on the north tip of the island. Treat yourself and hire a boat and explore to your heart’s content - it’s the best way to explore any island. Beaches away from settlements and people are, of course, clothing-optional zones. A trip to the Telaščica Nature Park is an unmissable part of a visit to Dugi Otok - it’s within biking distance from Sali. Telašćica Bay is a 10km deep inlet dotted with bays, islets and cliffs. A spectacular saltwater lake lies next to the bay the water is warm and said to be curative, and you can swim

Tourist information

i

Dugi otok Tourist Board Obala

Perta Lorinija bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 94, tz-sali@zd.t-com.hr, www. dugiotok.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00. Telašćica Nature Park Ulica Danijela Grbin bb, Sali, tel. (+385-23) 37 70 96/(+385-23) 37 73 93, telascica@zd.t-com.hr, www.telascica.hr. Q Information office in Sali open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Park entry tickets and permits are also issued by Park Rangers who are available and on duty 00:00 -24:00 inside park premises. Admission 60kn.

Nedo Buljan

Zadar In Your Pocket

there. Legends abound about hidden treasure and ancient inhabitants with five horns on their heads. More visible treasure is the wildlife that abounds there, from pine to fig to olive to moufflon (a kind of wild sheep). Although the park is not commercialised, there are facilities for tourists providing fresh fish and local wine. Paradise indeed.

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This is one for those of you with jangled nerves - a green, low-lying island with only two picturesque villages: Veli and Mali Iž. Veli Iž’s Hotel Korinjak serves only vegetarian food, and offers personal development programs including yoga and massage. In the town, you can visit a shop and gallery displaying terracotta pots that have been made here in the same way since Neolithic times. Islanders used to take it to Zadar market every day, and it was traded along the whole Dalmatian coastline. Th e stre ets are too narrow for cars, bu t luckily the locals are renowned for being a jolly and friendly lot, and will come to your aid with trolleys for your luggage. The town’s festival takes place over 3 days in August, and showcases a local oddity, water basketball. Mali Iž has l ovel y b ea ch es. Th e island ers li ve from fishing, olives, making great wine and a special rakija made with Japanese herbs that they say is good for the heart. If you’re really nice to them, they might take you to the islet of Rutnjak, great for swimming, fishing and diving. If not, you can always swim there.

Tourist information

i

Zadar Tourist Board office Veli Iž 195, tel. (+385-23) 27 70 21.

Ist & Molat Molat is a relative giant of the Zadar archipelago, having 3 count ‘em! - attractive little hamlets. OK, we got a bit carried away - they are very, very small. With only one ferry a day, Molat really is far from the madding crowd. There are only a handful of restaurants and shops on the island. Molat is covered by low-lying shrubs feeding a few goats and sheep. It’s great to spend the day exploring the pretty coastline by boat. Some of the best beaches are around Brgulje, where the ferry docks.

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Zadar county Neighbouring Ist is tiny, measuring under 10km2. It has sandy beaches, vineyards and olive groves, and is good for sailing, fishing and total relaxation, absolutely uncommercialised.

Pašman You can reach Pašman either by crossing the road bridge from Ugljan, or by taking the ferry from Biograd to Tkon, the island’s main settlement. Like Ugljan, it’s fairly low-lying and fertile, with olive groves and vineyards. There are a couple of sand beaches at Kraj, a pleasant hamlet with a wonderfully preserved Franciscan Monastery, St Dominius, dating back to the 14th century. Tkon also has a 12th century Romanesque Benedictine convent, sited on Ćokovac hill, overlooking the town. In general, Pašman consists of peaceful hamlets and coves to explore on land or by boat, to relax and enjoy healthy local produce, or even stay in an ecocottage. If you fancy a little café society, head to Ždrelac, an idyllic little place where you’ll find a great lounge bar, also fine for morning coffee. 2km from Tkon, there’s the Sovinje Naturist Camp (http://fkksovinje.hr), which has lovely clean sandy beaches.

Zadar county herbs, so sheep farming is the main agricultural activity. These salty herbs lend a special flavour to the animals’ meat and milk, which makes great cheese. Pag cheese is highly valued - it’s one of Croatia’s most famous export products. A good Pag cheese is mature, strong tasting and hard, a little like Parmesan. The real Pag cheese is expensive, so don’t be surprised if cheaper offerings disappoint. We recommend being adventurous and trying to get hold of some home made stuff on the island itself. Ask your hosts to recommend someone, or look out for signs saying “Paški sir”. Pag island lamb is also regarded as a delicacy - do try it if you have the chance. The island’s other renowned cottage industry is lace making. Since, once upon a time, there was nothing better for the women of Pag to do than keep an eye on a few sheep, watch salt dry and wait for hubby to come home with the day’s catch, they kept idle thumbs at bay by lace-making. Over the centuries they evolved a style so ethereal that it is considered one of Croatia’s most highly prized products. Hours of work goes into a tiny piece, so it is quite expensive - expect to pay from 200kn for a small piece direct from the maker, or around 400kn for a mounted example from a Zadar gallery (try the Lik gallery, see “Shopping”). But it is a beautiful memento of your holiday, and your purchase supports a vital cottage industry.

Pag Pag is one of the most unusual Adriatic islands. Parts of it are extremely rocky and devoid of vegetation, and look like the moon. Other parts are reminiscent of Spaghetti Westerns, with desert-like scenery and the odd spiky cactus. It’s not what you’d normally expect from the Mediterranean. But that’s not necessarily a bad thing. There are many other weird and wonderful things about Pag. It’s oddly squid-like in shape, with the “tentacles” forming lagoons. The sea is very calm here and the water has an exceptionally high salt content. There have been saltpans here for centuries: you can still buy Pag salt normally in any supermarket. It’s completely natural and has a high mineral content. The salty winds mean that on many parts of the island, rather little vegetation survives except scrub and

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cream parlours, pools and more. It’s wildly popular. Because of that, some might find it a bit too noisy and commercialised in high season. But never fear, Pag has the longest coastline of all Croatian islands (270km), and there are many places where you can escape the crowds. Expect lunar landscapes, white pebbles, crystal clear water and, on the north side of the island, spectacular views over the Velebit peaks on the mainland. One of our favourites is the Ručica beach near Metajna - turn left at the wooden sign before the village, and follow the road to the end. You’ll need to walk the last bit. It’s wonderful to watch the sun go down, turning the rocks pink as you sit on pristine white pebbles by the crystalline, lagoon-calm sea.

Money, money, ancient money! The first ever Croatian paper currency was the ‘assignat of the City of Pag’, in 1778. Until then, payments to clerks, officials and doctors were in salt. Once the ‘assignat’ was launched, the amount of salt was then converted to the lira equivalent and an invoice was issued. Each ‘assignat’ had an inscription of the amount of money and the date of issue.

Pašman Tourist Board Pašman, tel.

(+385-23) 26 01 55, info@pasman.hr, www.pasman.hr. Tkon Tourist Board Tkon, tel. (+38523) 28 52 13, tz-opcine-tkon@zd.t-com.hr. QJune, September Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 10:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

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is better than the more famous one made on Pag, and the local wine and olive oil are also great stuff. Olib has a lovely little fort, the remains of a monastery, and five churches including the Church of the Assumption of Mary, where you can see a document written in the Glagolitic script - the alphabet in which Croatian was first written. Premuda is a superb place for diving enthusiasts - it has an underwater cavern known as The Cathedral to explore, and the wreckage of a ship, the St Istvan. Apart from that, expect nothing other than true, idyllic island life: stone houses, oleanders and bougainvilleas, olives and figs and clean, clean shingle beaches. The perfect getaway.

In the mid 15th century, the Venetians commissioned Juraj Dalmatinac, Dalmatia’s most famous architect, to design the island capital, Pag town. It has a planned symmetrical layout, with a modest, drowsy feel. Walking through the streets, you intimately feel the life that goes on inside the little cottages, The town’s most striking church, St Mary’s, was also designed by Dalmatinac. He combined a Romanesque Dalmatian spirit with Renaissance and Gothic elements to create a striking edifice. The town has a few other interesting churches and palaces, wonderfully clean pebble beaches and several good restaurants. In the last few years, Pag has also built the reputation as Croatia’s party island, and the place where it all happens is the town of Novalja. Novalja, though not the capital, is the island’s most populous settlement, and has most of its facilities such as clinics and schools. A couple of kilometres from town is an excellent Blue Flag beach, Zrće, where a number of bars and clubs, including coastal versions of some of Zagreb’s most famous names, have opened to create Croatia’s answer to Ibiza. There are restaurants, ice

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Tourist Information Centre Vela ulica 18, Pag, tel. (+385-23) 61 12 86, tzg-paga1@ zd.t-com.hr, www.tzgpag.hr.

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Silba, Olib & Premuda These small green islands with one village apiece, each necklaced by sparkling-clean beaches, are well off the usual tourist repertoire but easily accessible by boat from Zadar (see “Getting around”). Silba, despite having no cars, is the liveliest of the three, and is favoured by artists so has a rather bohemian atmosphere. The nightlife there is relaxed with great live music, including jazz (of course), and a disco. Café Mik, by the church, plays jazz (sometimes live sessions in the evenings), and has a large space for art displays inside. Walk to the lovely gravelly beaches with agaves accompanying your way, learn to windsurf, rent a boat or (if you’re energetic enough) have a game of tennis, basketball or volleyball. Although only 15km2, Silba has 6 lovely small churches, some of them dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, they are not in a great state of repar. The island has an unusual monument - a 30m high tower (known as the Toreta) built by one of the island’s sea captains so that his wife could look out to sea and know when he would return (and know when to get his dinner ready?). Some people are a bit less cynical than us and see it as a symbol of love. Olib and Premuda are rather more sleepy. Like most Dalmatian islands, sandy Olib has no water sources, but unusually it has an undersea pipeline bringing Velebit’s renowned pure water to the island. It also has many pheasants and rabbits, which people run after with pop guns. Some say Olib’s cheese

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Silba Tourist Board tel. (+385-23) 37 00 10, tz.silba@zd.t-com.hr, www.silba.net.

Ugljan That tower you see on the pinnacle on the island opposite when you look from Zadar is St Michael’s Church, an easy hike from the village of Preko on the island of Ugljan. The island’s name comes from the Croatian word ulje, meaning oil - olive oil production used to be one of the main activities here. The gentle slopes facing Zadar are fertile, and there’s a pleasant agricultural feel away from the coastal settlements - you’ll see ladies walking along the road carrying the day’s harvest. Kukljica is the main tourist development on Ugljan, and is a great starting point for hiking and biking, a great way to see the numerous historical sites on the island. There are a number of routes outlined by the Tourist Board - call into their office or check out the website below. A 15 minute walk takes you to the other side of the island where you come to excellent beaches at Sabuša and Jelenica, some of which are sandy. The nearby cove of Kostanj also has a lovely shallow beach and the 13th century Romanesque Church of St Jerome (Sv. Jerolim) is nearby. Close to Kukljica is the Zelena Punta (Green Cape) peninsula, a tourist settlement where you’ll find a fantastic beach formed of a promenade with deep shade from pine trees, super-clean water and shingle and sand in the water. The islet of Ošljak is also popular for bathing - two Jadrolinija ferries call here per day, taking you to Zadar or Preko. On August 5, Kukljica celebrates the festival of Our Lady of the Snows - apparently it snowed once here in August - and everybody complains about how bad the weather is these days! A convoy of fishing boats travels ceremoniously to a nearby church. The port of Kali also celebrates this occasion - the townspeople are famous for being great fishermen, and oddly enough, 90 percent of them went to Panama and still can be seen fishing there to this day.

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Kukljica Tourist Board Kukljica,

tel. (+385-23) 37 32 76, kukljica@ kukljica.hr, www.kukljica.hr. Preko Tourist Board Magazin 8, Preko, tel. (+385-23) 28 61 08, tzpreko@preko.hr, www.preko.hr. QJune, September Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, July - August 31 Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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This small tourist town is a popular holiday destination for many visitors and is located between the two historic cities of Nin (2 km) and Zadar (13 km). It is the perfect escape for a family holiday and action packed vacation because of its great climate, preserved nature, the abundant sports activities available (horse riding, water sports etc.) and for its rich cultural and historical heritage. As summer nears, Zaton springs to life and as history books would have it, remnants of life and culture also existed in the area as far back as the Bronze Age, over 4000 years ago. Throughout the Roman period, Zaton was a port that was owned by Aenona (present day Nin) and the town started to gradually develop towards the end of the 17th century after the Turks had withdrawn from the area. One of Zaton’s landmark symbols and a frequent postcard motif is the Saint Nicholas Church, which is situated on a small little hill in the middle of a field. It has three circular bases and one rectangular niche as well as the

Zadar county dome above its center. The church was built with traces of the Romanic style from the end of the 11th and the beginning of the 12th century. A watchtower was built on the dome during the Turkish wars. The 16th century Kaštelin Tower was built as a defense structure against potential invaders. The engraved Latin inscription and coat of arms above the tower indicate that it was built by Hannibal Cirysagus, in 1593. This is one of three towers raised by the Venetians to defend Nin from Turkish raids. The parish church in Zaton is sanctified to the Birth of the Virgin Mary and was built in 1670, elongated in 1870, and extended in the shape of the cross in 1969. The remains of the Church of Saint Andrew is an extremely valuable object from early Christian times (built in the 6th century) which was, with various changes, used for cult purposes until the 16th century. In addition to the historical buildings and artifacts that encompass the area, visitors who are looking for somewhere to stay can find something to suit everyone’s taste and budget. Zaton is filled with private accommodation spots, well equipped camps and apartment hotels. The Zaton Holiday Resort is a famous tourist village which is located in the bay; it is secluded from the wind and surrounded by beautiful pine forest. This truly is an ideal place for an unforgettable and peaceful family vacation whilst also making most of the numerous sporting activities available including tennis, horse riding, cycling and adventurous water activities. Beach facilities for the disabled are also in place. The 1.5 km stretch of sandy and pebbled shoreline is perfect for families with children. If you are craving peace, an idyllic sunset, crystal clear waters with a lush green backdrop, then Zaton is your answer to that unforgettable dream getaway. Zaton Holiday Resort Dražnikova 76t, Zaton-NIn, tel. (+385-23) 28 02 80, sales.dept@zaton.hr, www. zaton.hr. Zaton Tourist Board Zadarska cesta 39a, Zaton-Nin, tel. (+385-23) 26 54 61, zaton-zd@inet.hr, www.zatonzd.hr. QOpen Mon 07:00 - 21:00.

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Nin

Embark on a journey where the two small tourist places of Nin and Zaton will surely amaze you with their anecdotes of history, buildings, artefacts and natural surroundings. Located a mere14 kilometres north of Zadar, these Adriatic gems have their very own story to tell. The region of Nin has been inhabited for over a staggering three thousand years. It was initially founded by the Illyrians who named the area Aenona. When the Romans gained control, the town had flourished as it was an important harbour in the Eastern Adriatic Sea - the growth and development of import, export and migration attracted merchants and other settlers to the area. The beauty of Nin and neighbouring Zaton is twofold. Visitors are immersed in the historical treasures of the tourist places whilst also fulfilling the true holiday experience of picturesque beaches and breathtaking surroundings. The historical town of Nin is situated in the middle of a shallow lagoon, whilst the historical part of the town is located on a small island that has a 500 metre radius. Visitors can enter the old town via one of two bridges which lead to the blissfully preserved historical city gates.

The arched gates are the steppingstone to a sightseeing tour of the city walls and the many valuable and historical monuments. Some of the archeological highlights include two original and reconstructed old Croatian ships ‘Condura Croatica’, (11th Century) that were found at the entrance to the harbour, the ruins to the biggest Roman Temple (from the 1st century) on this side of the Adriatic, the gothic chapel of Saint Marcela and the pre-Romanic Church of the Holy Cross (9th century) which is also known to be the smallest cathedral in the world. The gold and silver of the town as well as the historical treasures provide for a feast of culture. The other attractions that Nin and Zaton boast are their long sandy beaches which are perfect for that summer holiday. The blue sky waters are striking and the accommodation on offer includes hotels, nicely decorated apartments, holiday villas and small idyllic camps. A hidden advantage that entices many to this region is the ‘Nin Curing Mud Peloid’ which has been used for medical purposes since the Roman times. Supervised medical personnel assist visitors and patients with therapy. The curing mud effect can be seen through its medical, mechanical and chemical effect. The therapy is performed in a cosy natural environment and it includes bathing and swimming in warm sea water. As you wander through Nin or Zaton, you’ll find that nothing much has changed over the years; ancient buildings built from Dalmatian Stone still stand in their purest form. What visitors cherish the most are these magnificent historical structures entwined with the natural ambience of mothernature that provides the perfect getaway. We recommend that you visit: Park Solana Nin Ilirska cesta 4, tel. (+385-23) 26 47 64. Open 07:00 - 15:00. July, August open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 10kn. Dar Mar Donkey Farm Poljica, tel. (+385-23) 39 01 23, 098 180 51 71. Admission 10kn. Nin Tourist Board tel. (+385-23) 26 52 47/(+38523) 26 42 80, tzg-nina@zd.t-com.hr, www.nin.hr.

Biograd The small but lively town of Biograd was once an important political centre of the Croatian state and the seat of kings. Croatia’s crowned heads of the Middle Ages were peripatetic - travelling throughout their territories between their power bases - often smaller towns, since larger cities such as Zadar functioned almost as individual states. Biograd was one of these royal towns, as was Nin. One of the most important moments in Biograd’s history was the coronation of Koloman as Croat-Hungarian king in 1102 - the first time that the states of Croatia and Hungary were joined under a single crowned head - this time, by treaty. You can still see evidence of this proud yesteryear in Biograd’s pleasant old centre: an obelisk bearing the date 925, the date of the coronation of Tomislav, the first true Croatian king and a figure with almost mythical status. It was he who united Pannonia and Dalmatia into a single Croatian state and built the country into a military power rivalling Venice. The 11th century Basilica of St John was one of the few buildings which escaped after the Venetians attacked Biograd in 1125. There is an early Romanesque Church of St Anthony (13th century), the Church of St Rocco (16th century), and the imposing Church of St Anastasia (Sveta Stošija) built in 1761, with a fine clock tower, a decorative well in front and baroque altars inside.

Fans of history should visit the Homeland Museum, which has archaeological, ethnographic and art collections, and presents a fascinating picture of the town’s colourful and turbulent past. It’s at Obala kralja Petra Krešimira IV 22, tel. (+385-23) 38 37 21. Open 09:00-12:00, 20:0022:00. Closed Sun. Biograd is, however, far more than a destination for history nuts. The old centre is picturesquely laid out on a peninsula with a view over Pašman Island, which you can reach by the ferry which leaves from the town quay. Pleasant seaside promenades are lined with cafes and palms, and are attractively planted with lawns and flowerbeds. To the east

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of the centre is a large pine forest, within which you can find the tennis centre. The pebbly Blue Flag Dražica beach is just a ten minute walk from the old town. Voted one of Croatia’s best beaches, it’s isolated from traffic but has a car park. You can take part in watersports, and there’s an aquagun and a host of other amenities. The pinewoods extend further, providing a healthy and scented environment with a number of campsites, hotels and apartment complexes. A coast path through them leads you past more beaches. Some, such as Soline, are shallow and partly sandy, so particularly suitable for children. Be aware that some of the more secluded beaches along the coastline here are “clothing optional”, while at Crvena Luka you’ll find a proper FKK naturist beach. Crvena Luka is a deep bay with a holiday village behind.

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Zadar county Ancient Churches and Castles of Zadar County

Apart from the aforementioned tennis centre, Biograd is well equipped with diving centres, and is a gentle place to learn to windsurf. You’ll also find many opportunities to try your hand at waterskiing. Another activity we can recommend is a bike route which takes you from Kumenat (a neighbourhood just east of the centre) through Crvena Luka, Pakoštane (a nearby resort) and to Lake Vrana (Vransko jezero). This lake, just south of Biograd, provided the water supply for Zadar since Roman times, and is a pristine Nature Park, with a rich stock of birds and aquatic life. As such, it’s a mecca for fishing and birdwatching. The land there is very flat, so it’s perfect terrain for biking - it’s encircled by a 30km bike trail, which gets more hilly and interesting to the north of the lake. There’s a peaceful campsite which has a great fish restaurant. It’s a nice break from the hubbub of the coast.

Other trips you can take are a boat to the islet of Saint Katherine, just a hop away from Biograd’s shores. There’s an old lighthouse there and it’s great for bathing. Ask your host if they can arrange for a day trip for you. And a highlight of the entire Zadar region must surely be the Kornati archipelago lying scattered beyond the island of Pašman. Kornati is one of the most spectacular sights in Croatia, and dare we say, Europe.

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Biograd n/m Tourist Boar d Tr g

hrvatskih velikana 2, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 23/(+385-23) 38 53 82, info@tzg-biograd. hr, www.tzg-biograd.hr. Information on activites and trips, and maps of the area. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Like other regions of Croatia, Zadar County has a myriad of spectacular and fascinating castle ruins and ancient churches. Because it was the heart of the medieval Croatian kingdom, a key trading post and militarily important in controlling the northern Adriatic Sea, this region is particularly rich in castles and history. For millennia, the area that is now Zadar County has been the front line in the struggles between various empires and ethnic groups: the Romans vs. the Visigoths, the Venetians vs. the Turks, the French vs. the Austro-Hungarians and most recently the Serbs vs. the Croats. Fortunately for the modern visitor, the only struggle these days is deciding where to go sightseeing first! The sea, hilly islands and Velebit mountains add a dramatic backdrop to ancient buildings. If one starts in Zadar and proceeds on a clockwise circuit of the county, the first notable town encountered is Nin, 16 kilometers north of Zadar on Route 306. It has the oldest church in Croatia, the tiny, Romanesque Church of the Holy Cross (Crkva svetog Križa). An inscription on the lintel is dated 800 A.D. On the south side of Nin, just outside the town, is another tiny church, St. Nicholas’s (Crkva svetog Nikole), which was built in the 11th century. Located on an ancient burial mound, it’s easy to spot. When the Ottoman Turks occupied this area in the mid-16th century they refortified St. Nicholas, adding the crenellated top. It makes the church look like a miniature castle. After the Venetians drove the Turks out in the following century, St. Nicholas was refortified again.

Vransko jezero Nature Park Kralja Petra Svačića 2,

Biograd, tel. (+385-23) 38 31 81, pp-vransko-jezero@ zd.t-com.hr, www.vransko-jezero.hr. QOpen 08:00 16:00.Closed Sat, Sun. The scheduled working hours refer to Park Management only; entry to the Park leading to Lake Vransko and its surroundings is open to visitors all day which includes weekends.

Travel agencies Val tours Trg hrvatskih velikana bb, Biograd, tel. (+385-

23) 38 64 79, val-tours@val-tours.hr, www.val-tours.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

There are several spectacular castle ruins in Zadar County. Starigrad Ljubač, 15 kilometers due north of Zadar City, lies on a cliff above the sea and has a commanding view of Pag Island to the north. Templar knights are believed to have built Ljubač in the 13th century. The castle provided them with a clear view of anyone approaching by sea from the north or west. When the Turks invaded in the 16th century, the local inhabitants took shelter there. Later the castle featured prominently in battles between the Turks and the Venetians. As is usually the case, there are no signs indicating the way to this site. To reach Ljubač turn right at the Sonik grocery store in the middle of the village. Go 1.2 km up that road, then turn left (north) on a dirt road at the first giant antenna at the top of the hill. Follow that dirt road to Ljubač. It’s about a 45 minutes walk on undulating terrain. It’s not advisable to drive unless you have a sport utility vehicle, in which it would take 15 - 20 minutes. Not too far from Ljubač, on the southern tip of Pag, is another precariously situated castle fortress called Fortica. Built by the Venetians in the 16th century, it’s just below the bridge from the mainland to Pag, guarding the strait below. It matches the color of Pag’s barren landscape. You can easily reach the Fortica from Ljubač. The two are visible from each other, making one speculate what rivalries or alliances between their occupants might

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have existed over the centuries. Alternatively, you can get to Fortica by going north towards the town of Pag on route 106 from the Posedarje exit on the A1 motorway. Novigrad (literally “New Town”, somewhat of a misnomer), a castle ruin perched on a hill above the town of the same name, also has had a turbulent history. The Romans, and before them, the Liburnians, built forts on the same spot. Some of the walls date from Roman times, but Novigrad has been modernized. It has several restaurants and cafes right on the water, offering nice views of the harbor. Located 31 km east of Zadar via route 502, Novigrad has been the front line in several conflicts. During dynasty wars (1385-1387) in what is now Croatia, two woman of royalty, Mary, the wife of Croatian-Hungarian King Sigismund Luxemberg, and her mother, Elizabeth, were murdered there. During the Kandian Wars (1645-1669) it was an important point of Venice’s defense against the Turks, who occupied the town during 1646-47. When the Venetians retook the town the castle was substantially destroyed. During the more recent war of 1991-1995 after the break up of Yugoslavia, the Serbs also held the town for two years. There is another spectacular view of the modern day town and the sea from the ruins, which are accessible from several trails. The easiest to find (again, no signs!) starts from the top of some wide stairs that ascend from the east side of town. Go right at the top of the stairs and then left after about 10 meters. It takes around 10 - 15 minutes to reach the castle. Obrovac is another hill top castle/fortress above a modern day town of the same name. You can reach this small town easily from the Maslenica exit on the main Zagreb - Split highway, A1. There are plenty of eateries and cafes in Obrovac. It takes about 10-15 minutes to ascend the steep hill from the middle of town to the castle. The stately Velebit

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Mountains loom in the distance. Obrovac was built atop a Roman settlement called Clambeta. The Kurjaković noble family occupied the castle from the 14th century until the Turks captured Obrovac in 1527. During the Kandian Wars the Venetians overran the town, but the Turks reoccupied it on the basis of a treaty ending that conflict. Forces under the command of Zadar nobleman, Šimun Bortolazzi, liberated Obrovac from the Turks in 1699. Like Novigrad, the Serbs captured Obrovac in 1991 and exiled all the Croats. The Serbs withdrew in 1995. Happily, in the town there is very little evidence left of that modern conflict. There are two castles worth exploring in the town of Benkovac, which is 28 km south of Obrovac on routes 502 and 27. There is a Benkovac exit off the Zagreb - Split highway. Benkovac is a sizable town with several restaurants and taverns. The Croatian family, Benković, built Benkovac Castle, which has been nicely restored. It’s on a low hill on the east side of town. Benkovac has undergone occupation by a succession of armies and governments. The Venetians took over the town in the 15th century. Then the Turks captured Benkovac in 1527. They held it until 1683. Next, the Morlacs, a mountain tribe, took over. It became a rural county district under the French

Paklenica National Park The Paklenica National Park lies just nor th of Zadar within the Ve l e b i t m o u n t a i n range. Two streams, the Velika and Mala Paklenica, car ve their way through the soft limestone leaving gorges with cliffs up to 400m high, and fascinating rock formations characteristic of karst territory. The scenery is incredible: the interior is unexpectedly lush due to large quantities of pure spring water, allowing dense forests and lush meadows to flourish. Local residents include the rare Griffon vulture, sparrowhawks, chamois, wild boar, brown bears, wolves and lynx. The park is a favourite destination for hikers and climbers. Over 150 km of hiking trails include the walk from the park entrance through the Velika Paklenica Canyon to the Paklenica Mountain Hut (about 2 hours), though there are many more demanding routes. The park administration publishes excellent maps. Mountain hut accommodation is available - reserve in advance on (+385-23) 30 16 36 or e-mail: pd.paklenica@zd.htnet. hr. There is also a campsite with a beach (prices are on www.paklenica.hr ). Starigrad, the town at the park’s entrance, has excellent pebble beaches and a number of restaurants that offers dalmatian specialities. Paklenica National Park Dr.F.Tuđmana 14a, Starigrad-Paklenica, tel. (+385-23) 36 92 02/ (+385-23) 36 91 55, np-paklenica@zd.t-com.hr, www.paklenica.hr.

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in 1811 and the Austrians in 1847. The Serbs occupied this town as well for a time during the 1991 - 1995 “Great Patriotic War”. The other castle in Benkovac is Kličevac, a well-preserved ruin. Even the roof of its main tower is intact, a rarity for castle ruins. There is an excellent view of Kličevac to the east (right) from a bridge at kilometer marker 276 on the north bound side of the Zagreb - Split highway. That view will entice you, but it is not possible to reach the site from there. You need to drive about 2 kilometers west from Benkovac on route 56. You will see a one lane, macadam road going up to the left and across railroad tracks. The road leads to a private homestead on the edge of a flat, cleared, gravel area. When the road curves sharply to the right you should turn left and cross the cleared area towards some pine forest. A gravel track runs along the south end of and then into the woods. At a dip in the track take the right fork. Follow this track (ignore others) and after about 100 meters you will head down and see the castle through the trees. Perched on the edge of a stony ravine, it is an impressive sight! Be sure to take a peek through the tower door to get a glimpse of the intact roof. Feudal lords of the Kurjaković family built Kličevac at the end of the 14th century on a cliff above the Kličevica River. An extension was constructed in the 15th century. Kličevac’s inaccessibility did not prevent the Turks from capturing it in the early 16th century. Several senior Turkish government officials occupied the castle over the next 150 years. Cont inuing on our counterclockwise circuit of castles in Zadar County, Starigrad (“Old Town”) Vrana lies 11 kilometers south o f Benkovac via a secondary, but paved road. The modern day village of the same name surrounds the ancient, ruined, walled town. Much of the town walls remain, and the remains of a church are clearly discernable. Vrana also has had a turbulent history. Originally it was a Roman settlement called Blandona. In the Middle Ages it was a Benedictine monastery, but the Holy See gave the town to the Templar knights in the 12th century. In 1312 Vrana came into the possession of the Templars’ rivals, the Knights Hospitaller, who served not only as combatants but also as medics in the Crusades. For two centuries Vrana’s prior was wealthy and influential, owning 40 other monasteries in the region. As with nearby towns, the Turks overran Vrana in the early 16th century. A Turkish military commander, one Alibeg Atlagić, re-fortified the town. When the Venetians captured Vrana and evicted the Turks in 1647, they destroyed much of the town’s fortifications. If you are feeling adventurous, take a ferry from Zadar to Preko on the island of Ugljan, a journey of 20 minutes. About three kilometers from the ferry pier is the castle fortress of Saint Michael (“Sveti Mihovil”). It is perched on the highest point of the island (265 meters) and there are spectacular views in every direction, particularly of Iž Island and Dugi Otok (“Long Island”) to the west, but also Zadar to the east and countless Adriatic islands to the south. When you drive up from the ferry pier, turn right on the main road. After a kilometer or so take the narrow but well paved road that leads up to the west (left). There is a sign pointing the way to the castle (will wonders never cease!?). You can drive all the way, but there are several walking trails that ascend to the summit, too. Various monasteries were located at Sv. Mihovil beginning in the 10th century. The Venetians fortified Mihovil in the 13th century as an observation post. Because the site is so advantageous for this purpose, the Serbs shelled Sv. Mihovil in 1991. This is one place that the Turks did not succeed in capturing. Un for tunately, now a communications tower inside the walls of the castle mars the atmosphere somewhat. Nevertheless, this ruin is worth visiting because of the great views. As you travel around the county you may observe other hilltop ruins. There are many more, but those described above are the largest and most spectacular. The fact that they were built for military reasons and changed hands so many times reflects the strategic importance of the Zadar area through the millennia.

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Alesandra Paravije B-3 Ante Kuzmanića E-3,4 Bana Josipa Jelačića D-1 Bartula Kašića D-3/E-3 Bedemi zadarskih pobuna A,B,C,D-2 Benedikte Braun M-5 Bijanchinija K-5/B-3 Biskupa Jurja Divnića K-5/B-2 Blaža Jurjeva L-6/C-3 Borelli L-6/C-3 Božidara Petranovića K-6/A-3 Braće Bersa K-6/A-3 Braće Bilšić K-6/A-3 Braće Vranjanin L-6/C-3 Brne Karnarutića K,L-5/C-2 Brodarska K-4/L-4/C-1 Ćirila Ivekovića L-6/C-4 Dalmatinskog Sabora L-5,6 Dinarska J-4 Don Ive Prodana L-5,6/D-3 Đure Sudete J-3,4

Elizabete Kotromanić L-6/D-3 Forum K-6/C-3 Foša L-6/D,E-4 Fra Donata Fabijanića K-6/A,B-3 Fra Šimuna Klimantovića L-6/D-4 Franje iz Milana L-6/D-4 Frederica Grisogona L-5/D-2 Grge Oštrića J-4 Grgura Mrganića K-6/B-3 Grigora Viteza L-3 Hrvoja Hrvatinića Vukčića L-6/C-2 Ilije Smiljanića L-5,6/D-3 Istarska Obala J-5,6/A-3 Ivana Brkanovića L-4,5/C-1 Ivana Bršića K-5 Ivana Danila K-6/A-3 Ivana Mažuranića K-4,5/B,C-1 Ivana Meštrovića K-3,4 Jakše Čedomila-Čuke K-5/B-3 Jerolima Vidulića K-6/B-3 Josipa Jurja Strossmayera L-4 Jurja Barakovića L-5/D-2,3

Jurja Bijankinija K-6/B-3 Jurja Dalmatinca Matejeva L-5/C-3 Kazališni prolaz C-3 Knezova Šubića Bribirskih F-6 Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira M-6 Kraljskog Dalmatina L-6/C-3 Krešimira Čošića M-6 Krešimirova obala B-4 Liburnska obala K-5/B-2 Luke Jelića K-6/A-3 Lukoranska K-4 Majke Margarite L-6/C-3 Mateja Bošnjaka K-5/B-2 Madijevaca K,L-6/C-3 Među bedemima M-6 Mihe Klaića L-6/D-3 Mihovila Pavlinovića L-6/C,D-4 Miroslava Krleže J,K-4 N. Nikole Matafara K-5/B-3 Narodni trg L-6/C,D-3 Narodnog lista L-5/D-2 Obala kneza Branimira K,L-5/C-1

Obala kneza Trpimira K-5/A,B,C,D-1 Obala k. P. Krešimira IV K,L-6/B,D-4 Obala kralja Tomislava L,M-5/D-2 Oko vrulja K-4 Perivoj Jarula L,M-5/D,E-2 Perivoj k. J.-Madijevke L,M-6/D,E-3 Perivoj Vladimira Nazora M-5,6/E-3 Pod bedemom K,L-5/C-2 Poljana Natka Nodila K-5/B-2 Poljana Šime Budinića C-6/D-3 Poljanska L,M-3 Pravdonoše K-5/B-2 Prečac Nikole Jakšića K-4 Prečka L-3 Prilaz hrvatske čitaonice K-6 Prokonzula Grgura K-5,6/B-2,3 Put Dikla G,J-3 Put Šimunova L,M-3,4 Rafaela Levakovića L-6/D-4 Ravnice M-6 Rikarda Jeretova Katalinića L-5/C-1 Ruđera Boškovića L-6/D-3,4

Sirac L-6/D-4 Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Stara Voštarnica L-5/C-1 Stomorica L-6/C-3,4 Stube Slavoljuba Penkale K-4 Sv. Nediljice L-6/C-4 Šime Ljubavca L-6/D-4 Šime Ljubića L-6/D-4 Šime Vitasovića L-5/D-2,3 Šimuna Benje Kožičića K-5/B-2,3 Široka ulica K,L-6/B,C-3 Špire Brusine L-6/D-3 Tanzlingera Zanottija K-6/B-3 Trg opatice Čike B-3 Trg pet bunara L-6/D-3 Trg Petra Zoranića L-6/D-3 Trg sv. Frane K-6/A-3

Trg sv. Krševana K-5/B,C-2 Trg sv. Stošije K-6/B-3 Trg tri bunara K-5/A-3 Ulica BoreLli L-6/C-3 Varoška L-6/C,D-3 Vatroslava Lisinskog J,K-3,4 Velebitska L-4,5/D-1 Veslačka L-4,5/D-1 Vjekoslava Maštrovića J-4 Vladimira Papafave K-6/A,B-3 Voštarnica L-4 Vrata sv. Kršovana K-5 Vrata sv. Roka K-5 Zadarskog mira K-6 Zlatarska L-5/C-2 Zore dalmatinske L-6/C-3 Zrinsko-Frankopanska M-5

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