Split In Your Pocket No6

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

SPLIT

“In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

Summer 2013

The soul of the city Split‘s markets today and back in time

Camping in Croatia

We have all the hot spots so get your gear ready

Makarska Riviera

Sunny climate, unique coves and long pebbly beaches

N°6 - complimentary copy split.inyourpocket.com

CONTENTS

3

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Split

5

Land ahoy!

The Basics

6

Whither toilets?

Culture & Events

7

Festival fun and music mania

Camping

11

Experience a night under the twinkling stars

Where to stay

14

Your home away from home

Local flavour

19

Fresh and always a buzz!

Dining & Nightlife

26

Lions wolves and bear cubs welcome CafĂŠs Grab a book and watch the world go by Nightlife Step out in Split style

Savour the local flavours and dishes along with the aroma of fresh fish at the market, transporting us back to the times gone by (see page 19)

What to see 31 32

33

Check out the highlights

Makarska Riviera

40

Day trip galore

Sport

52

Adventure sports, sailing...

Getting around

53

Planes, trains & Automobiles

Shopping

57

Perfect gifts and souvenirs

Directory

61

Grown up important stuff

Split Dalmatia County

62

Out and about around the city

Maps & Index

Retreat to a spectacular coastal getaway between the majestic mountains and shimmering sea (Photo by BaĹĄka Voda Tourist Board, see page 40)

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Street registrer County map City map City centre map Country map

74 75 77 78 82

Summer 2013

4

ARRIVING IN SPLIT

FOREWORD For decades Split was an odd paradox, a city steeped in history and culture that didn’t seem to care whether it got a slice of the tourism pie or not. The last few years have seen a huge change in Split’s fortunes. Modern travellers have been turned on by the sheer urban energy of one of the Mediterranean’s great port cities, and have opted to stick around for a few days rather than hurrying to catch the first boat out. And the locals – who have always considered their town to be one of the most inexplicably unique places on earth, but habitually assume that outsiders are too stupid to realize it – have awoken to the realization that the new breed of foreigner actually thinks Split is just as cool as they do. And to be honest, Split doesn’t have to try too hard to impress. For dedicated urban nomads it’s a dream city of shore-side cafes, back-alley bars, and a vivacious, dressed-to-thrill cast of locals for whom the art of having a good night out is a lifelong calling.

This season is filled with musical concerts and parties including- Ultra Europe Festival, a Sustipan Night’s Dream, the Croatia Reggae Festival... As well, don’t miss out on the local dishes and flavours that can be found at the market and will have your mouth watering for days. Learn all about camping sites in Croatia and the best destinations for a cozy camping excursion with your family and friends.

Also, don’t miss out on visiting the charming Makarska Riviera, nearby Split. Make sure this summer is an unforgettable one!

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E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Split In Your Pocket Draškovićeva 66 Zagreb, Croatia tel. +(385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70 fax +(385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com ISSN 1846-856X © Plava Ponistra d.o.o.

Printed by: Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Cover : Makarska Tourist Board Archives

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By boat

By plane

Split‘s ferry port isn‘t a bad place to make the transition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen strolling around, don‘t be disturbed: those are just the customs officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet near the back of port operates around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue farther and you‘ll reach the old town in about five minutes.

Split‘s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00.

Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the Slobodna dalmacija kiosk (open according to flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the men‘s and women‘s toilets.

Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall.

Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Plesoprijevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn‘t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 17kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Plesoprijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old town for 30kn.

By bus Split‘s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 24:00) 3kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers a twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates from 00:00 - 24:00.The international ticket office operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you pay 1.5kn.

Getting to town: As it‘s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station.

By car From Zagreb So you have your own wheels and you‘d like to know the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of 157 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know you‘re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that‘s that!

From Slovenia Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.

From Italy Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you‘ll see signs for the A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.

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By train The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station‘s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it‘s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station.

Tourist information Tourist Information Centre D-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. (+385-21) 36 00 66/ (+385-21) 36 00 67, touristinfo@visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Tourist Information Centre J-2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, touristinfo@visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00 Split Tourist Board I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 86 00, touristinfo@ visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com. QOpen 07:30 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Split Dalmatia County Tourist Board D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 10/1, tel. (+385-21) 49 00 32/(+385-21) 49 00 33, info@dalmatia.hr, www. dalmatia.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Become a fan of Split In Your Pocket on Summer 2013

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6

BASICS

CULTURE & EVENTS BASICS

Customs

Roads

Since Croatia will enter the EU on July 1, there will be no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. Legislation for other non-member states is in the process and we recommend you to follow info at www. porezna-uprava.hr.

When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Smoking Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavementcafé culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

Electricity

Visas

The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

EU! Here we come! Since Croatia is becoming a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy has become fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states will need a visa to enter Croatia also. Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Public Toilets The safest option is to use the facilities of a bar or café while having a drink on the premises. The best public one, complete with staff on hand to keep it clean and tidy is on Kralja Tomislava (I-2).

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Split County (April 2011): 455,242 Split (April 2011): 178,192 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2. It shares borders with Hungary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear waters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!

Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Croatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Split it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

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Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Firule Hospital in Spinčićeva 1 (E-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

National holidays January 1 January 6 March 31 April 1 May 1 May 30 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

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Kries (Ethno Ambient Salona Archives)

Exhibitions 03.05 Friday - 15.10 Tuesday Pots, Plates and Bowls - Ceramic collection from EMS

Giovanni Battista Brustoloni. Local artists include, Miljenko Stančić, Vasilije Jordan, Miroslav Šutej, and Boris Švaljek.

September 2013 - December 2013 The Himalayas - The Mountains and the People

J-3, Ethnographic Museum, Severova 1, etnografskimuzej-st@st.t-com.hr, www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr.

This collection of traditional household ceramics will take you on a unique tour of historic kitchenware. Take a look at some tradition pottery from the Pannonian Plains and Dinaric Alps of Croatia, or some imported ceramics from Puglia, in southern Italy. These Italian kitchen utensils were sold to sailors sailing along the Adriatic Coast, during the 19th and 20th century, and were used for their daily meals.

J-3, Ethnographic Museum Split, Severova 1, etnografskimuzej-st@st.t-com.hr, www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr.

Travelling throughout the remotest regions of Nepal, Tibet, Pakistan and Afghanistan, Stipe Bozić recorded hundreds of breathtaking photographs that reveal the daily lives of the people who live at some of the highest peaks in the world.

This exhibition, which includes photos from a pilgrimage around the sacred Mount Kailash, as well as the non-inhabited areas of Karakorum and Hindu Kush, will leave you breathless.

02.06 Sunday - 12.07 Friday

Special events

A-3, Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, muzej@mhas-split. hr,www.mhas-split.hr Love your art! Then see the jigsaw puzzle put together in forty perfect copy mosaics taken from city basilicas and mausoleums in Ravenna, Italy. These world heritage gems have travelled the globe and arrive in Split in celebration of Croatia’s entry into the EU.

08.06 Saturday - 15.06 Saturday

Antique Mosaics from Ravenna

15.06 Saturday - 30.06 Sunday

Stamped City

Split City Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.mgst.net. Herve Baurel will present the pieces he created during his time spent with the association KURS, in Split. They will be on display from June 15th - 30th, at the Split City Museum. Afterwards, the exhibition will be brought to Zagreb.

20.06 Thursday - 20.08 Tuesday

The Beauty of Graphic Art’ Exhibition, Varaždin City Museum J-2, Emanuel Vidović Gallery, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, www.mgst.net. This exhibition includes selected pieces from the collection of paintings, sculptures and drawings of artists, from the Varaždin City Museum, which were designed using a variety of techniques including etching, engraving and lithography. They were created between the 17th - 20th century by prominent local Croatian and European artists, such as Cornelius Visscher, a brilliant Dutch etching technician, Johann Elias Ridinger, a German printmaker and Italian master,

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Split Mediterranean Film Festival Bačvice Summer Cinema; Kinoteka Zlatna vrata, Dioklecijanova 7, www.fmfs.hr. Eight days, hundreds of films, thousands of visitors! See films from the Mediterranean region come alive with a matinee and beach evening programme that has people sitting on beach towels as tickets are snapped up quick smart. Parties under the night sky are this year’s added surprise.

15.06 Saturday

9th Picigin World Cup D-3, Bačvice Beach. The Ecological Society, “Picigin Bačvice,” is organizing the ninth annual Picigin World Cup. Along with this sporting event, musical performances by Rebatajica, Sv. Florian and Brodosplit will take place. The Championship finale will take place on June 15, 2013, starting at 10:00. Before announcing the winner, there will be salsa dancing and parachute jumping.

15.06 Saturday - 27.06 Thursday

A festival of street entertainers Riva, Marmontova, Peristil, Voćni trg. Clowns, jugglers, acrobats, musicians... and many more are set to dazzle at the international festival of street entertainers in Split! Two weeks of fun and excitement including free concerts can be seen at the Peristil, and other city locations including the Voćni trg, Riva etc.

Summer 2013

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CULTURE & EVENTS Split Film Festival 14.09 Saturday - 21.09 Saturday

Split Film Festival - International Festival of New Film info@splitfilmfestival.hr, www.splitfilmfestival.hr.

Throughout the years Split Film Festival / International Festival of New Film, which was founded in 1996, has grown into an interesting and important international manifestation which promotes the art of the moving image through its competition sections and numerous special programmes by favouring creative, innovative, independent, personal, abstract, radical, etc. work of all genres and lengths whether it’s involving traditional film techniques, or the latest technology of the electronic image. The opening of the festival will be at the Central Cinema whilst screenings will take place at the Karaman Cinema, Kinoteka Zlatna vrata, and the MKC exhibition space in Dom mladeži. Movies are scheduled daily from 17:00 to 23:00. Part of the programme is free; otherwise it is 20kn per ticket.

CULTURE & EVENTS 24.06 Monday - 30.06 Sunday

02.08 Friday - 04.08 Sunday

Lavender Festival as a part of Wildflower Festival

Voi’Sa party

Supetar, Brač, www.voi-sa.com. ‘Get down, get down and move it all around’ to some soul, boogie, and hip hop music.

Featuring DJ Andy Smith accompanied by MC Honeybrown, Jazznova DJ Set by Alex Barck and many more- this party should not be missed.

Stari Grad, Hvar , w w w.stari-grad-faros.hr/en/ wildflower-festival.aspx. This festival is a unique project that celebrates the cultural heritage of wildflowers and rural communities that keep up the landscapes in which these plants grow. Don’t miss out on seeing the rich and diverse flora and fauna at Stari Grad, located on the Island of Hvar. A variety of activities, including tours, along with musical and cultural events, will be available.

08.08 Thursday - 09.08 Friday

Discotheque Riva

I-3, Riva, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. The Split Riva is literally turned into an outdoor club with 20,000 punters hopping and bopping the night away. Spend the night under the stars ducking and weaving the spectacular laser show on hand.

03.07 Wednesday - 04.07 Thursday

A Sustipan Night’s Dream

C-3, Sustipan, www.ritamprodukcija.com. Great news for lovers of cultural and musical programs, this year’s guests at a Sustipan Night’s Dream, will be Rade Šerbedžija and Urban & 4. Šerbedžija will tell you stories of various life adventures through gentle and melancholy, but sometimes uplifting songs, while Urban & 4 will leave you mesmerized with their charisma. Q Tickets 80kn.

Biennale Mosaic 01.08 Thursday - 23.08 Friday

05.07 Friday - 07.07 Sunday

The Split festival

I-2, Prokurative (Trg Republike), www.splitskifestival.hr.

Many say that this is the San Remo Music Festival of Croatia as it always attracts the biggest names on the Croatian music scene. Despite the glory days of the 70’s and 80’s long gone, the event has had some changes over the years but things are on the improve. For the very best in Croatian music, then this is a highlight as it continues to attract the biggest names and draws the most attention.

10.07 Wednesday - 14.07 Sunday 21.06 Friday - 23.06 Sunday

FOR 2013

Town Hvar, island Hvar, forfestival2013.com. The first FOR 2013 musical event will take place on the island of Hvar and will feature a number of artists, including Solange Knowles, Nicolas Jaar, Tame Impala, 2manyDJs and James Murphy of LCD Soundsystem. This event will combine the pleasures of summer island beauty, along with breathtaking musical performances. Due to the small capacity of the venue, only 2000 visitors can enter, so don’t miss out on securing your tickets ahead of time.

22.06 Saturday

Croatia Reggae Festival D-3, Bačvice Beach, www.croatiareggaefestival.com.

Don’t miss out on this unforgettable opportunity to experience Croatia’s Reggae Festival, featuring some of the best European bands: Makako Jump, Zenicafaria Sound, Jamar and even local Split legend, St!llness. In addition to enjoying the concerts, join in playing the popular water ball game, traditionally from Split, called picigin, which entails keeping a small ball in the air above shallow water. Bob Marley once said, ‘Life is one big road with lots of signs,’ so let your road take you to the heart of the best party in Croatia.

Supetar Super Film Festival

Supetar, Brač, www.supersupetar.com/home.aspx. A festival of contemporary European documentary film with a programme of accompanying events, including concerts by leading Croatian bands and exhibitions and art workshops on themes related to the programme of films. The festival takes place over five days.

12.07 Friday - 14.07 Sunday

9th International Blues & Jazz Festival I-2, Riva. You may escape the heat temporarily but this annual jazz event ought to turn it up a notch. Come on down to the Split Riva as a line-up of both national and international jazz musicians are sure to get you tapping and dancing to this smooth yet up-beat style of music.

Poljud Stadium, 8. Mediteranskih igara 2; Hotel Amfora Grand Beach Resort, Hvar, www.ultraeurope.com. This destination music festival will have you rocking for three days to musical talents, Adam Beyer, Nicky Romero, Luciano, Reboot, Jamie Jones, Deniz Koyu, and many more. Taking place on the island Hvar, for 1 day, and at Poljud, Split, for 2 days, don’t miss out on enjoying these musicians in paradise.

14.07 Sunday - 14.08 Wednesday

The 59th Split Summer Festival

Various locations across Split, www.splitsko-ljeto.hr.

A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and music will be held in venues throughout historical centre of Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance perfomances from Croatia and abroad.

14.07 Sunday - 21.07 Sunday Sutivan, Brač, vanka.regule@st.t-com.hr, w w w. vankaregule.com. A festival of outdoor adventure sports plus a film festival dedicated to adventure themes equals, with a sprinkling of photography equals fun for just about everyone. Sports featured include climbing, free ride biking, indo board, windsurfing, sailing, sea kayaking, slacklining, trail running and stand up paddling (which we didn’t think sounded very difficult until we saw the pictures).

19.07 Friday - 20.07 Saturday

Supetar Summer Festival

Split In Your Pocket

Ultra Europe Festival

Vanka Regule

22.06 Saturday - 21.09 Saturday Supetar, Brač. An annual festival of ar t, culture and entertainment that fills the whole summer, celebrating Brač’s rich cultural heritage. On Mondays there are exhibitions by local ar tists; on Tuesdays island folklore displays; Wednesdays are devoted to book promotions and lectures; Thursdays are given over to haunting klapa acapella singing, and Friday is the day for theatre performances and mandalin concerts. On Sundays there are concerts of classical music.

For more information, please contact the Supetar Tourist Association.

Tjarda - Split Tribal Fest Archives

12.07 Friday - 14.07 Sunday

Split Art Gallery, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15; The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace, www.biennalemozaikarijeka.com. A mosaic is an art piece created by assembling small pieces of colored glass, stone, or other materials. This expressive art technique is one of the oldest existing techniques, alongside painting and sculpting, and like all art forms, has changed and developed over time. Mosaics can express stories through pictures and groups of materials, using fragments of classical materials, such as stones, marble, glass, gold, ceramics or modern-day materials, such as paper, wood, metal, linoleum, plastic and objects from everyday life or work experiences. In some selected works, fragments are connected using modern technology, such as photographs and movies. As well, art pieces can be presented either as two-dimensional or three-dimensional images.

The Biennale Mosaic project was created to research and promote neglected mosaic techniques. This is the first exhibition of this kind in Croatia and began in 2011.

This year’s Biennale will feature international art groups, Mosaizm and CaCO3. These amazing artists were taught at the School of Mosaic, in Spilimbergo and the School for Restoration in Ravenna, both in Italy. This year, the exhibition will be displayed, in Split, not only in Rijeka and will also be traveling to Pula and the country’s capital, Zagreb.

In Split, a solo exhibition by Croatian artist, Joko Knežević, will be on display. His work expresses his deep connection with the rocks and cliffs of this beautiful country’s landscape. Over the years, he studied the history of the stones, as if reading the history of the Croatian people.

Growing up the rock was his friend and he learned to create beautiful images which spoke to him through nature. Joko fed his imagination by studying the mountains and rocks under which he lived. His painting, ‘‘Stories in Stone,’’ are a testimony to his observations of the world around him. Through his work, he expresses feelings of pain, hope and delight that he experienced in his daily life. He created an impressive number of mosaics and also made a series of self-portraits.

Ethnoambient Salona

ST!llness - Photo by Nino Šolić

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Gradina, Solin, www.ethnoambient.net. The spirit of this event is global whilst it firmly remains local. This yearly gathering truly defines how diverse world music really is. It presents musicians who get their inspiration in combining traditional and contemporary music from their countries of origin. Hear sounds from around the globe with this musical celebration of cultural differences! Hear the sounds of Kololira (Croatia), Kries (Croatia), The False Beards (UK), Spiro (UK) and Prusinowski Trio (Poland).

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Matko Kezele, Traces, (Tragovi, 2012)

Summer 2013

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CAMPING IN CROATIA

CULTURE & EVENTS Cinemas Central I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 38 13, www.ekran.hr.

Cineplexx City Center One, Vukovarska 207, tel.

Joe Brnobic - Photo Club Split

16.08 Friday - 19.08 Monday

Days of Diocletian

Riva, Peristil, The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace. The Emperor Diocletian returns and will we see his wrath once more.

In a splendid re-enactment of ancient rule, for four nights citizens dressed in costume wander along the city streets as the Emperor himself is led by carriage by an entourage of guards to the Peristyle. Embrace the past with gladiator performances, singers and a street music festival. Dig and delve into the Roman feast by tasting delicacies made from natural local ingredients (honey, fruit, vegetables, shellfish, and spices) as prepared according to traditional old recipes.

22.08 Thursday - 25.08 Sunday

Split Tribal Fest - The Festival of Modern Oriental Dance J-2, Peristil; MKC, Savska bb; O’ Hara, Uvala Zenta 3, www.splittribalfest.com. A grand dance spectacle with over 200 performers set to make Split hip! Tribal dance is a combo of oriental belly dance, flamenco, Indian kathak dance, hip hop, ballet, martial arts and contemporary dance.

The glitter and glare are topped by rich costumes, crazed hairstyles and more. Did we mention that dance workshops will be held? Sign up ASAP!

28.08 Wednesday - 08.09 Sunday

MAGfestival

J-2, Split City Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.udrugamag. com. For the 4th year in a row, as organized by the Young Academic Musicians Association, a chamber music festival will be held at the beautiful venue of the Gothic Hall of the Split City Museum. By purchasing a ticket, visitors will not only be able to participate in the concert but will also be able to visit the Split City Museum and see the permanent display of the Emanuel Vidović Gallery.

(+385-21) 65 11 11, www.cineplexx.hr.

CineStar D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Joker Centre), tel. (+385-) 060 32 32 33, www.blitz-cinestar.hr.

Karaman I-2, Ilićev prolaz 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 58 33, www.ekran.hr.

Kinoteka Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 36 13 35, www.pouciliste-split.hr.

Open Cinema Bačvice (Ljetno kino Bačvice)

D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 86 76, www.ekran.hr. QOpen 19:00 - 23:00. Open July, August.

Roger Waters 23.07 Tuesday

The Wall Live Tour C-2, Poljud Stadium, 8. Mediteranskih igara 2.

One of the founding members of the Pink Floyd band, this English musician will rock your world all night long.

Don’t miss out on his ‘The Wall Live’ tour, which features an updated version of the original Pink Floyd shows. Q Concert starts at 20:45. Tickets 230 - 600kn available at the www.eventim.hr.

Culture Centers Alliance Fraincaise I-2, Marmontova 3, tel.

(+385-21) 34 72 90, info@alliance-francaise-split. com, www.alliance-francaise-split.com. Q Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

MKC-Multimedia Culture Centre (Multimedijalni kulturni centar) D/E-2, Ulica slobode 28,

tel. (+385-21) 53 74 49/(+385-21) 53 74 71, mkcsplit@mkcsplit.hr, www.mkcsplit.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Food and drink

Small galleries

Camping is a great way to get to know a country. When it comes to mealtimes, you get to choose between sampling local restaurants or exploring shops and markets for local produce. Campsites usually have inexpensive eateries onsite or nearby, and in our experience they’ve always been fine, serving stuff like grilled mackerel, fried sardines, squid, risottos, grilled meats and salads. And when it’s time for a light snack, is there any better taste than freshly-baked bread and ripe tomatoes drizzled with home-produced olive oil, eaten in the shade?

Galić Art Salon I-2, Marmontova 3, www.hulu-split. hr/str/galic.htm. Q June Open 10:00 -13:00, 17:30 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Kula J-2, Kralja Tomislava 10, tel. (+385-) 091 454 66 66/(+385-) 091 386 77 22, galerija.kula@gmail.com, www.galerija-kula.hr. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

MKC Gallery D/E-2, Ulica slobode 28, Dom mladih, www.mkcsplit.hr. Q Open during exhibition. Admission free.

Photo Club Split (Galerija fotografije fotokluba Split) I-2, Marmontova 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 75 97, info@fotoklubsplit.hr, www.fotoklubsplit.hr. Q Open 10:30 - 12:30, 18:30 - 22:00, Sat 10:30 -13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

The cellars of Diocletian’s Palace (Dioklecijanovi podrumi) I/J-3, hulu-split.hr/str/podrumi.htm. Q Open

09:00 - 21:00. September Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. Admission 20 - 40kn.

Split In Your Pocket

Got heaps of time on your hands this summer but not so much money? Get thyself a tent, dear friend, and indulge in the joys of camping! There’s 1000km of coast at your disposal in Croatia, and almost as many islands. There are forests and meadows, rivers and mountains, all waiting to be explored on foot, by bike, on horseback or even on your trusty four wheels.

Croatia’s campsites grew up during the 20th century to cater for everyone from inter-railing students to well-off families in motor homes that are better-equipped than many peoples’ apartments. People love the freedom that camping offers.

You can head off on a great road trip, stopping where you fancy. And there’s something special about crawling into your very own nylon and fiberglass home or lying back in a deckchair while steaks sizzle on the barbecue and cicadas chirrup all around.

Creature comfort On the 130th anniversary of the birth of Ivan Meštrović and the 120th anniversary of the opening of the theater at Dobri, which today is the Croatian National theater in Split, there will be a display of the cast of Meštrović’s sculpture, ‘Fountain of Life’ (‘Zdenac života’), in the atrium, from May 3rd-August 15th.

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The best news is that in recent years the standard of facilities in campsites has improved considerably. Whether you’re heading for the quietest outpost on the remotest island or the biggest resorts on the tourist itinerary, these days your shower block is mostly modern and clean, while washing machines, fridges and barbecues will probably be at your disposal. An increasing number of sites offer facilities for dog owners such as designated beaches and dog showers.

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Photo by Radisson Blu Split Some campsites offer beautifully-appointed mobile homes or bungalows, others have communal areas that look like trendy lounge bars, and an increasing number are open all year and have heated facilities. Many campsites have also have tents and trailers for rent so you can camp even if you don’t have kit of your own.

Fresh air and exercise Since folks who enjoy camping tend to enjoy the great outdoors, it’s a happy coincidence that many campsites are located slap-bang next to (or even within) the country’s national parks and other beauty spots. Most camping facilities are on (or near) the coast, but inland Croatia is finally getting its moment in the sun, with increasing numbers of guests opting for a change from the usual sea and sun combination.

Wherever you are there are usually plenty of sports and outdoor activities laid on, from hiking and biking to climbing and diving, to name just a few. On the coast, campsites tend to have the cleanest beaches. On the islands, which offer perhaps the best combination of peace, attractive surroundings and interesting stuff to do, a whopping 98% of Blue Flag beaches are those attached to campsites.

The big campsites If you’re looking for activities and entertainment the big campsites have most to offer. On the beaches you’ll find pedaloes, water slides, bananas, jet skis and more. There are tennis courts, volleyball courts, five-a-side football pitches and table tennis tables. You can rent bikes, mopeds

Designated campsites only!

Don’t be tempted to set up camp at the roadside for the night! It might earn you a fine. Camping in Croatia is only allowed at proper campsites or designated parking facilities for camper vans.

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CAMPING IN CROATIA

Camp Baško Polje - Baška Voda Tourist Board Archives and small boats. And for families with small children, there are usually beaches suitable for kids, as well as hosts and hostesses who will keep the little ones entertained while you take a well-earned break.

The following are among the top campsites in Croatia when it comes to facilities and family-friendly entertainment: Zaton near Zadar (winner of an ADAC “Best Family Campsite” award), Soline near Biograd, San Marino at Lopar (Rab island), Solaris near Šibenik, Straško near Novalja (Pag island), the camping park at Umag, Poljana on Mali Lošinj island, Kovačine at Cres town (Cres island), the campsite at Krk town (Krk island), and Zelena Laguna at Poreč.

Naturist Camping The Croatian coast has for decades been a top destination for fans of naturist (clothing-free) holidays. German advocates of the Freikörperkultur (“Free Body Culture”, or “FKK”) philosophy of healthy living helped establish naturist facilities here in the early 20th century. Where you see the FKK sign, that means you’re about to enter a naturist zone.

Nowadays, although you’ll find naturist beaches at almost every resort along the coast, there are some spots which are particularly well-known for catering for naturists. Examples are Rab island where the first naturist beach was established; the Istrian island of Koversada, one of the largest naturist resorts in Europe; the islet of Jerolim just offshore from Hvar town (Hvar island), and the Valalta complex near Rovinj in Istria.

You can choose between fully naturist campsites, clothingoptional campsites and regular campsites with naturist bathing onsite. If you’re off the beaten track, you’re sure to find a secluded spot where it’s perfectly well-tolerated for naturists to sunbathe and swim.

Croatia is one of the three countries in Europe with the most naturist camping facilities. Most of them are on the northern part of the coast (Istria and Kvarner). Here are our suggestions: Sovinje (Zadar), Bunculuka (Baška, otok Krk), Nudist (Split), Konobe (Krk), Koversada (Vrsar), Ulika (Poreč), Kamp Baldarin (Mali Lošinj).

Things to do Apart from activities organised by campsites, we recommend the following things to do during your stay.

Istria In Istria, head for Beram, a hamlet of 200 souls where the Church of St Mary on Škriljinah has an amazing fresco of the Danse Macabre dating from 1747. At Bale, a picturesque little inland town that Casanova is said to have visited, in

Split In Your Pocket

CAMPING IN CROATIA

the Ulika gallery you can see dinosaur remains that were found nearby.

Pazin in the heart of Istria is noted for its karst cave where the Pazin river plunges underground. The cave is said to have inspired Jules Verne for his fantastic stories.

Take a peek into the shipwreck of the Baron Gautsch, an Austrian passenger ship which sank in 1914. It lies 40m below the surface 6 nm southwest of the island and lighthouse named Sveti Ivan na Pučini. The ship is a protected site so diving is only permitted through registered diving centres. It is incredibly well preserved, still displaying its belle époque beauty. And speaking of boats, visit the misleadinglynamed Eko muzej Batana at Rovinj, which has nothing to do with organic vegetables but is all about a traditional type of boat, the batana.

Abbys of Pazin Pazin, tel. (+385-52) 62 50 40, www. pazinska-jama.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 15 - 30kn.

The Batana Ecomuseum Obala P. Budicina 2, Rovinj, batana@rv-batana.t-com.hr, www.batana.org. Q Open 10:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Tickets 5 - 10kn.

The Church of St Mary on Škriljinah Beram, tel.

Mrs Šestan, (+385-52) 62 29 03. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Ulika Gallery Rovinjska 1, Bale, tel. Bale Tourist Office (+385-52) 82 42 70. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Kvarner If you’re in Kvarner, don’t miss the old smithy at Dražice (just inland from Rijeka) where you can see how blacksmiths ply their trade. Close by is Gašparov mlin, a well-preserved watermill, one of several at Grobnik. For a tour, contact the Jelenje Tourist Association on 051 297 152.

For a great hike, head for Mali Lošinj island and climb the peak of Osoršćica (588m). You’ll be rewarded by a 360-degree view of Pag and Silba islands, the Istrian peninsula, the mountains of Gorski kotar and the Velebit range. Trails start at Nerezine or Osor (just across the causeway on Cres island). Be sure to take plenty of water and in hot weather start early in the morning. There’s a mountain lodge open during the summer every day except Mondays.

On a cultural note, in Mali Lošinj town, in the museum in

the Fritzy palace you can see the Mihičić Collection of contemporary Croatian painting, sculpture and medallions, and the Piperata Collection - 27 works by Italian masters of the 17th and 18th century. Take a step back in time in Rab town on 25-27 July when the Knight’s Tournament and the Rapska fjera take place. This is the town’s annual fiesta held in honour of its patron Saint Christopher and King Ljudevit the Great which began 1346.

Jelenje Tourist Association, tel. (+385-51) 29 71 52, info@tz-jelenje.hr, www.tz-jelenje.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sat, Sun. St Gaudent Hiking Lodge Osoršćica Mountain, tel. (+385-) 098 40 34 69. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. The Lošinj Museum V.Gortana 35, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 38 92, www.muzej.losinj.hr. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 5-10kn.

Kamp Adriatic (Orebić), Kamp Village Zrmanja (Draga, near Obrovac), Kamp Vira (Hvar) - voted best mid-sized campsite in 2012.

Northern and central Dalmatia

If you prefer to get away from everything, and everybody, while you’re on holiday head for a secluded campsite where you can enjoy Robinson Crusoe style solitude. Try these ones: Kamp Paradiso (Drage, near Šibenik), Kamp Lupis (Pelješac), Kamp Ujča (Senj), Kamp Kate (Mlini), Kamp Aloa (Brač), or Kamp Sloga (Prvić Luka).

If Dalmatia is your destination, apart from the sights we describe in our Split-Dalmatia county pages we suggest the following. If you’re travelling from the Zagreb direction, turn off the motorway at Gospić to visit the Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre. Tesla, a massive genius and charming eccentric, was born right here.

Ease away your aches and pains at Zablaće, just 9km from the Solaris camp near Šibenik. The medicinal mud here has been proven to be effective in relieving rheumatism.

Or, for a little more action, sign up for the military-style adventures on the islet of Mrčara, close to Lastovo island.

Here they offer team building, fitness boot camps and military-themed games.

Not so far away on Vis island, be sure to visit the pleasing park in Vis town. Keen botanists might spot an unusual Mazari palm, not often spotted outside Asia and the Middle East.

Likewise, on Hvar island nature lovers will have ample chances to see agaves in flower. Agaves flower only after the plant has been growing for 100 years, and after flowering has finished the plant dies. That makes the flower worth seeing in our book. Agaves are among the iconic images of the beautiful green coast of Dalmatia.

Nikola Tesla Memorial Centre Smiljan, tel. (+38553) 74 65 30, www.mcnikolatesla.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Tickets 20 - 50kn.

Southern Dalmatia

San Marino on Rab island The San Marino holiday complex in Lopar on Rab island is named after the saint who also gave his name to the tiny republic of San Marino, just across the Adriatic.

Legend has it that San Marino (or Saint Marinus) was born in Lopar in the 4th century AD.

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If South Dalmatia is your destination we recommend a visit to the Narona Archaeological Museum near Metković, where you can learn about the ruins of a Roman temple found here. At Močići you can see an ancient stone carving of the god Mitrej. And towards the very southern tip of Croatia, in the village of Dunave, where the borders of Croatia, Hercegovina and Montenegro meet, you can climb to the Sokol Tower. From here, as you take in the view of the entire Konavle region, you can get a sense of the mighty fortifications that once stood guard over the Republic of Ragusa.

Narona Archaeological Museum Vid, tel. (+385-20) 69 15 96, www.a-m-narona.hr. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.

Closed Mon. Tickets 20 - 40kn.

Sokol Tower Dunave, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr.

QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Tickets 25 - 40kn.

Small and family-run campsites Camping these days need not be a spartan, style-free experience. The following campsites offer something special, be it a warm family welcome, concern for good management or a refreshing dose of good design. Kamp Jasenovo (Šibenik), Kamp Maslinik (Punat, Krk island),

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Eco friendly campsites In recent years a growing number of campsites in Croatia have worked hard to achieve certification for environmental standards. Certified camps have clean beaches and water, conserve energy and other resources, prevent pollution and provide recycling facilities. Among the best eco-friendly camps in Croatia are Kamp Krk on Krk island and Kamp Stobreč in Split. Kamp Stobreč in 2009 won a Federcampeggia award for hospitality and environmentallyfriendly facilities.

Desert island camping

A word of warning Several readers told us that despite having confirmed reservations and paid deposits, they have been turned away from some campsites due to overbooking. Unfortunately we can’t assist directly in these matters, but if this happens to you do let us know about and we’ll remove the culprits from our guide. We also suggest you leave your comments on Trip Advisor and similar sites to warn others.

Don‘t Light My Fire Don’t even think about it. Long, hot summers turn the vegetation in Dalmatia into one huge tinderbox.

Wildfires caused by a moment’s thoughtlessness spread rapidly with tragic consequences for people, wildlife and property, so penalties for culprits are stiff.

Here are a few tips to help you avoid hitting the headlines for all the wrong reasons: Litter: We’re sure you have the good sense and good manners not to leave your litter strewn around the countryside, but be especially aware that discarded glass and plastic can act as a magnifying glass for the sun’s rays and be a cause of fire.

Cigarettes: A tin with a lid or a screwtop container makes a great portable ashtray so you can dispose of your cigarette ends properly in a rubbish bin. If you must dispose of your cigarette end in the countryside, be especially careful to extinguish it properly, and definitely don’t throw burning butts from the car window.

Fires and barbecues: Flying sparks can set overhead trees alight and fires will race over grass and scrub. Look for designated areas in camp sites and nature parks with properly enclosed barbecues. Be sure to have water to hand in case of mishaps, and be sure your fire is properly out before you leave it.

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WHERE TO STAY Cream of the crop Atrium J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20 00

00, fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, reservations@hotel-atrium. hr, www.hotel-atrium.hr. You’re not in the middle of the action if you’re staying here, but the entire hotel is modern, luxurious, comfortable and nicely equipped, with pool, jacuzzi and free Internet. All the things you want and expect from an upscale hotel are here. Q128 rooms (125 doubles €170 290, 3 suites €550). PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

F Fitness centre

G Non-smoking rooms

Upmarket

K Restaurant

M Nearest metro station

BEST WESTERN Art Hotel D-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel.

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi connection

(+385-21) 30 23 02, fax (+385-21) 30 23 00, prodaja@ arthotel.hr, www.arthotel.hr. If you’re a business traveler with access to a car, this cube-shaped, modern hotel is a solid choice. Without a car, you’ll be a fifteen minute walk from the old town but either way, you’ll have an exceedingly comfortable and stylishly-decorated room with Internet access included in the price. Q36 rooms (36 singles €125, 36 doubles €165 185). PHAULGBKDW hhhh Dalmina E-1, Kopilica 5, tel. (+385-21) 35 00 00, fax (+385-21) 35 00 01, info@hoteldalmina.hr, www. hoteldalmina.hr. The location is a bit drab and off the beaten path, but everything you need for a decent stay is on offer: Internet, free on-site parking, complimentary breakfast and more. Q52 rooms (30 singles 650 - 790kn, 30 doubles 650 - 790kn, 4 suites 990kn, 18 Twin Rooms 550kn).

PHAULGKXW hhhh Globo D-2, Lovretska 18, tel. (+385-21) 48 11 11, fax (+385-21) 48 11 18, info@hotelglobo.com, www. hotelgobo.com. A four-star hotel that lives up to its classification, Globo has a relatively decent location, exceedingly helpful and cheerful staff and a breakfast that usually doesn’t fail to satisfy. Q33 rooms (8 singles €139, 20 doubles €152, 5 triples €217). PHA6LNGKW hhhh Luxe D-3, Kralja Zvonimira 6, tel. (+385-21) 31 44 44, fax (+385-21) 31 44 45, reservations@hotelluxesplit. com, www.hotelluxesplit.com. Location, location! An exclusive new four star hotel close to the Diocletian Palace, bus and trains station. This is not your everyday hotel, it is a luxury boutique hotel with attention paid to every detail. It has modern rooms with a Mediterranean feel, a restaurant, a cigar bar, and wellness amidst quality all-round service. The exterior is superbly designed blending the ancient stone that defines Split with a splurge of modernism. Sleek and stylish! Pets allowed on payment of 7€ per night and a one-off payment of 14€ for cleaning the room. Q30 rooms (3 singles €140 - 235, 24 doubles €140 - 315, 1 Deluxe Suites €400 - 500, 2 Prestige Suite €250 - 350). PHA6FLGXW hhhh Marmont I-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60/(+385-) 091 129 01 99, fax (+385-21) 30 80 70, booking@marmonthotel.com, www.marmonthotel.com.

Boutique hotel in an old stone house with imaginative modern add-ons (the breakfast room is an attractive triangular wedge). There is a reasonable amount of desk space, big TVs, and wifi coverage throughout. The classy modern bathrooms come with either bath or shower cubicle - although even the latter are pretty spacious and seem to have been made with splashing around as a twosome in mind. Q22 rooms (21 singles €150 - 265, 21 doubles €180 - 310, 1 Presidential Suite €900 - 1050). PALGBW hhhh Park D-3, Hatzeov perivoj 3, tel. (+385-21) 40 64 00, fax (+385-21) 40 64 01, sales@hotelpark-split.hr, www. hotelpark-split.hr. For an upscale establishment with over fifty rooms, the amenities have made themselves relatively

Split In Your Pocket

scarce through the eighty-seven years of this hotel’s life.

There’s no pool, the rooms’ bathrooms are small and service can be a bit slow. The location close to Bačvice and the quiet atmosphere make up for these small problems though, and the outdoor terrace, accented by gently swaying palm trees, is hard not to love. Pets can stay by arrangement. Q57 rooms (21 singles €134, 33 doubles €204, 2 Junior Suites €365, 1 Presidential Suite €500). PHAR6ULG BKDW hhhh President D-2, Starčevićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 30 52 22, fax (+385-21) 30 52 25, hotel.president@st.t-com. hr, www.hotelpresident.hr. Just outside the walls of the old town near the Croatian National Theatre stands the President, a comfy hotel with stylish decorations in earthy, natural tones. Double rooms can be a bit small but if you need more space to stretch out, the deluxe double should do the trick. Q 72 rooms (6 singles 915kn, 56 doubles 1200kn, 6 suites 1825kn, 4 Presidential Suites 2650kn).

PZHA6ULGBKW hhhh Radisson Blu Resort Split F-3, Put Trstenika 19, tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, fax (+385-21) 30 30 31, info.split@ radissonblu.com, www.radissonblu.com/resort-split.

Luxurious resort on the compelling Adriatic Sea, unique rooms and suites in every range with well-appointed features; two refreshing pools, spas, saunas and treatments in a wellness oasis, a stunning 900 foot beach front, authentic Mediterranean cuisine, and so much more to offer. Q250 rooms (16 singles €149 - 231, 204 doubles €169 - 341, 11 suites €269 - 351, 17 Junior Suites €299 - 471, 2 Presidential Suites €1500). PTHAR6UFLGBKDCW hhhh Vestibul Palace J-2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 29, fax (+385-21) 32 93 33, info@vestibulpalace. com, www.vestibulpalace.com. The rooms here are a hip homage to ancient and modern, with rooms decorated in black, brown and beige, contrasted in suites 3 and 6 with the original Roman walls that stand exposed. The modernity and hipness are never taken far enough to make the hotel uncomfortable, however, making this the most sought-after and exclusive name for Split’s visiting elite. Q11 rooms (4 singles €292 - 328, 5 doubles €370 - 415, 1 suite €594 - 669, 1 Junior Suite €463 - 518). PTALGBKW hhhh

Mid-range Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8,

tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, fax (+385-21) 34 00 08, info@ hotel-adriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. Perhaps the proprietors rely a bit too much on their Riva-front location to sell their hotel, as some of the rooms are on the small side and the service has been known to be a bit curt. Q15 rooms (2 singles 700 - 750kn, 11 doubles 950 - 1100kn, 2 apartments 1200 - 1400kn). PJABKXW hhh

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DeBelly restaura ant, situ uatted d in tth he very ve ery ry cen entrre of entr of Spllitt and in the hip Gol o iBosi de essiign gn hosste t ll,, is a ni nice nice ce pla lace lace ce with a nice oliv ve grove te err rrac ace wh wher e eh hu u ung ng gry ry peo opl plle e go g o fo orr a qui uick mood im mpro provem pr ovemen en nt iin n the e fo orrm rm of of de c de delici ciiou ous me ous mea alls ls an and / o orr wide id d va arriiet iet ety of of dri rink rink nkss,, with wi h pri ric ce es ssttyl yle ed d with itth ev ever ery y wa wall wall llet et in m miind d.

Morp Mo rpug pug ugov ova po p lj l an a a 2, 2, Split pllitt p +3 385 21 51 5 0 99 99

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WHERE TO STAY Consul D-2, Tršćanska 34, tel. (+385-21) 34 01 30,

fax (+385-21) 34 01 33, hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr, www.hotel-consul.net. Perhaps a bit pricey considering the services on offer, but clean, comfortable and friendly nonetheless. The hotel appears to have been converted from an old apartment building and is situated in a quiet, residential area fifteen minutes’ walk from the center. Q19 rooms (4 singles €90, 9 doubles €130, 2 triples €150, 4 apartments €205). PHALGBKXW hhh Dujam E-2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25, fax (+385-21) 53 72 58, info@hoteldujam.com, www. hoteldujam.com. Saint Dujam (a.k.a. Doimus, Domnio and Domnius), patron saint of Split, moonlights as the patron saint of budget travelers by lending his endorsement to this hotel, located about a fifteen minute walk from the center. Q35 rooms (4 singles €60 - 67, 29 doubles €80 - 92, 2 apartments €99 - 111). PHALGKW hhh Kastel I-2, Mihovilova širina 5, tel./fax (+385-21) 34 39 12, tel. (+385-) 091 120 03 48, info@kastelsplit. com, www.kastelsplit.com. One of the best value small guesthouses in the city, this tall building sits at the southwest corner of the palace and is operated professionally and efficiently. Q9 rooms (1 single €80 - 90, 2 doubles €120 - 125, 1 triple €140 - 150, 2 apartments €160 - 175, 1 Studio Apartment €120 - 125, 2 Twin Rooms €120 - 125).

PJAGW hhh More F-3, Šetalište pape Ivana Pavla ll 27/l, tel. (+38521) 46 21 12, fax (+385+21) 46 22 01, hotelmore@ hotelmore.hr, www.hotelmore.hr. Hotel More is actually a bed and breakfast that operates in an interesting cascadestyle building on the waterfront, a short walk from the old town. The vibe is calm, comfortable and relaxed. Q9 rooms (8 singles €85 - 112, 8 doubles €103 - 140, 1 suite €127 182). PALGXW hhh Peristil J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. (+385-21) 32 90 70, fax (+385-21) 32 90 88, booking@hotelperistil. com, w w w.hotelperistil.com. Gi ven th e excellen t furnishings, superior location and lovely view from the terrace on the roof, you might be pleasantly surprised to discover that the cost for a night at the Peristil isn’t anywhere in the neighbourhood of an arm and a leg. An added bonus is the excellent Tifani Restaurant on the ground floor, where chefs whip up food in open kitchens. Q12 rooms (3 singles €135, 9 doubles €162). PA6GBKXW hhh Slavija I-2, Andrije Buvine 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 38 40, fax (+385-21) 32 38 68, info@hotelslavija.hr, www. hotelslavija.hr. Slavija’s stellar location in the palace and recent renovations are its big draws, but the location can also be a thorn in the side of those who treasure their beauty sleep. The loudest and rowdiest bars in the old town are located nearby. Q25 rooms (6 singles €113 - 126, 11 doubles €144 - 166, 8 triples €170 - 180). PA6LGW hhh

Old School charm Bellevue I-2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 44, fax (+385-21) 36 23 83, bellevue@inet.hr, www.hotel-bellevue-split.hr. Today’s hotel Bellevue is located on the Riva next to the church of Saint Francis and on the south-west wing of the Prokurative. It was once a hotel offering curative baths to guests whilst its café was a meeting place for rich clientele. Famous writers such as Anatole France, George Bernard Shaw and Agatha Christie have all lodged here. Today’s hotel offers comfortable accommodation and includes the Noštromo restaurant.

Q50 rooms (13 singles 400 - 500kn, 34 doubles 550 700kn, 3 triples 650 - 850kn, 3 apartments 750 - 950kn).

ARLBKX hhh

Split In Your Pocket

Hostels Golly&Bossy I-2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel. (+385-21) 51 09 99, info@gollybossy.com, www. gollybossy.com. Have you ever been to a designer hostel? Kid you not, this will knock your socks off, it has escalators for all 3 floors, free WiFi all-round, a DJ booth, small theatre, kitchenette, a restaurant, a 15 meter bar with drinks aplenty, waterfront views and is literally less than a one minute walk to the waterfront. Price wise, it matches most other hotels but with features you would not believe! Hostel also offers private rooms, for more information about prices contact the hostel. Q 87 dorm beds, 27 - 33€ per person. PJHAGBKW Silver Central I-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+38521) 49 08 05/(+385-) 098 995 58 78, silvercentralhostel@gmail.com, www.silvercentralhostel. com. Bright, high-ceilinged apartment with a welcoming reception/common room and a trio of 6 to 8-bed dorms, each with its own internet terminal. Q 26 dorm beds, 130 - 190kn per person. PJNGW Silver Gate D-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28 57/(+385-) 098 995 58 78, silvergatehostel@gmail. com, www.silvergatehostel.com. Run by the same team as Silver Central and offering pretty much the same deal, the hostel occupies an atmospheric apartment building with fine views of the Palace’s eastern gate. Q 26 dorm beds, 130 - 190kn per person. PNGW Split Hostel Booze and Snooze I-2, Narodni trg 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, info@splithostel.com, www.splithostel.com. Right round the corner from the medieval main square, this is a cute and cosy hostel run by a helpful and informative team. Soon to be opening a new annexe a couple of streets away, complete with basement bar. Q 16 dorm beds, 12 - 25€ per person. PNGW Sunseekers I-2, Poljana stare gimnazije 1, tel. (+385-) 091 521 64 52, sunseekers@net.hr. A top stop over for travellers with four dormitories consisting of various bed numbers, two bathrooms, a chill out room, free Wi-Fi, air con, safety lockers and other goodies. 18th century building and if location means anything, you are in the heart of Split. Great staff! Q 18 dorm beds, 110 150kn per person. PJNGW Tchaikovsky Hostel D-2, Ulica Petra Iliča Čajkovskog 4, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 24/(+385-) 099 195 04 44, info@tchaikovskyhostel.com, www.t-hostel.com. Boutique type hostel with attention paid to detail; 20 beds on offer and each with a private curtain, reading light and more. Real mattresses, real pillows, reasonable rates and the real deal! Informative staff that will answer your every question. Q 20 dorm beds, 110 - 180kn per person. PJAGW

Brač Bluesun Hotel Borak Put Zlatnog rata 42, Bol, tel.

(+385-21) 30 62 02, fax (+385-21) 30 62 15, borak@ bluesunhotels.com, www.brachotelborak.com. The lush surroundings and whopping 150 square meter pool are eye-catching. Not to mention the 184 modern guestrooms all decked with a balcony and essentials. Buffet meals are served throughout the day. Numerous complimentary specials are provided to all guests. Positioned 50 meters from the beach and close to the town centre. Prices are per person/ per day. Q184 rooms (133 doubles €30 - 89, 3 suites €102 - 204, 48 Family Rooms €44 - 122). PTARFLG KXCW hhh

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LOCAL FLAVOUR

WHERE TO STAY

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Pastura Vrilo 28, Postira, tel. (+385-21) 74 00 00,

fax (+385-21) 63 21 09, pastura@st.t-com.hr, www. hotelpastura.hr. It’s perfectly located on the promenade with ocean views from the restaurant or aperitif bar. Amenities include an outdoor fresh water pool, fitness hall, Jacuzzi, sauna and massage. Modern and set in peaceful surroundings. Prices in rooms are per person per day. Q59 rooms (31 doubles €52 - 82, 13 apartments €55 - 135, 15 Family Rooms €56 - 86). PTAFLGBKDCwW hhhh Waterman Svpetrvs Resort Put Vele Luke 4, Supetar, tel. (+385-21) 63 11 33, fax (+385-21) 63 13 44, sales@watermanresorts.com, www.watermanresorts. com. Comprising residences Kaktus, Villa Diana, Villa Maria, Meridien, Agava, Salvia and Olea the Svpetrvs Resort has a lot of things going for it that might make it an irresistible choice while on Brač. Given the fact that it’s part of a consortium of hotels, there are a load of services on-site that other hotels in the same price range simply cannot offer, like indoor and outdoor pools, an abundance of tennis courts andsports areas and a fitness and wellness center. It also happens to be located right on the beach. Q440 rooms (78 singles €105 - 138, 78 doubles €67 - 86, 277 triples €54 - 69, 63 suites €97 - 122, 22 Junior Suites €80 - 103). Prices are per person per day. PTHAUFLGBKDCW hhhh

Hvar Riva Hvar Yacht Harbour Hotel Riva bb, Hvar,

tel. (+385-21) 75 01 00, fax (+385-21) 75 01 01, riva-reception@suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar. com. Ideal for single travelers, party people or friends on a getaway together, the Riva is a boutique hotel, modern and chic through and through. Unfortunately, the rooms are reminiscient of seats on an economy class flight: slightly cramped and uncomfortable after long periods of time. There are even, inexplicably, see-through glass windows on the toilet and shower. Q54 rooms (46 Superior Rooms €275 - 380, 7 Junior Suites €385 - 460, 1 Riva Marina Suite €625 - 660).

PAR6UGKW hhhh The Palace Hvar Hotel Trg Sv. Stjepana 5, Hvar, tel. (+385-21) 74 19 66, fax (+385-21) 74 24 20, palace@ suncanihvar.com, www.suncanihvar.com. If you were to build a palace of your own, you just might choose to build it on the exact space that this hotel occupies, right on the harbour on the sunny island of Hvar. You probably wouldn’t, however, choose to deck it out with quite the same furniture or decorations. If you choose to brave the dated interior, make sure you ask for a room with a view. Q73 rooms (4 singles €70 - 90, 53 Standard Rooms €120 - 232, 11 Superior Rooms €200 - 249, 5 Family Rooms €210 - 289).

PHA6GKCW hhh

Vis Biševo Ribarska 96, Komiža, tel. (+385-21) 71 32 79/ (+385-21) 71 31 44, fax (+385-21) 71 30 98, info@hotelbisevo.com, www.hotel-bisevo.com.hr. Probably the best bet in tranquil Komiža, this functional and comfortable hotel comes with some handy pluses like satellite TV and a balcony for every room. Prices in rooms are per person per day. Q130 rooms (2 singles 260 - 550kn, 123 doubles 200 - 410kn, 5 apartments 520 - 1053kn). PTALBKXW hh Issa Šetalište A.Zanelle 5, Vis, tel. (+385-21) 71 11 24, fax (+385-21) 71 17 40, hotel-issa@vis-hoteli.hr, www.vis-hoteli.hr. While it is located just a stone’s throw from the center of Vis Town, the hotel is still surrounded by plenty of green and lots of clear, sparkling water. Every room has a balcony looking out onto the bay. Prices are per person per day. Q125 rooms (125 singles 310 - 575kn, 125 doubles 235 - 460kn). PALBK hhh Split In Your Pocket

Kaštela Adria Dr. Franje Tuđmana 969, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+38521) 79 81 40, fax (+385-21) 79 81 50, info@hotel-adria. hr, www.hotel-adria.hr. If waking up for that 06:00am flight intimidates you a bit, Hotel Adria’s location can afford you a few extra winks the night before and has comfortable rooms and a pleasant staff to boot. If the sound of planes taking off and landing distracts you, close the windows, crank up the AC and the noise virtually disappears. Q11 rooms (1 single €50 - 60, 6 doubles €72 - 86, 4 triples €99 - 117).

PALBKW hhh

Podstrana Le Meridien Lav Grljevačka 2a, Podstrana, tel. (+385-21) 50 05 00, fax (+385-21) 50 03 00, reservations_split@lemeridien.com, www.lemeridien.com/ split. Brand new and exclusive with 381 guest rooms and suites. Set on a marina promenade; expect to be dazzled by the multitude of restaurants, bars, cafes, plus casino, sports bar and nightclub. Furthermore, the recreational complex and the astounding Diocletian Spa and Wellness Centre are state of the art. With over 800m of beach frontage, it really is paradise. This ultra-modern new hotel complex is located 8km from the centre of Split. Q381 rooms (370 singles €290, 370 doubles €330 - 480, 2 Diplomatic Suites €1300, 2 Family Suites €700, 5 Junior Suites €650, 2 Presidential Suites €2200). POTHA6UFLGBKD CwW hhhhh San Antonio Grljevačka 30, Podstrana, tel. (+38521) 33 61 11, fax (+385-21) 33 53 48, info@hotelsanantonio.com, w w w.hotel-sanantonio.com. The words “San Antonio” cull up images of Texas, but Texas this is not. This particular San Antonio is a four-star hotel right on the beach in Podstrana, 8km from the old town.

High-speed Internet is available, along with a whole list of other amenities. Ideal for long sessions of quiet chilling on the beach. Prices and number of rooms relate only to accommodation in the hotel, not in its annexes. Q50 rooms (42 singles €145 - 189, 42 doubles €170 - 229, 42 triples €200 - 269, 6 suites €210 - 345, 2 Penthouses €210 - 279).

PHAUFLGBKDCwW hhhh

Trogir Pašike Splitska 4, Trogir, tel. (+385-21) 88 51 85/

(+385-) 091 484 84 34, fax (+385-21) 79 77 29, info@ hotelpasike.com, www.hotelpasike.com. While the amenities and services are thoroughly modern, the decor and the rich wood furniture is thoroughly 19th and early 20th century, making this one of most the intriguing hotel choices in the area. Q14 rooms (2 singles 490 - 750kn, 11 doubles 640 - 950kn, 1 apartment 900 - 1200kn). PALGB KXW hhhh

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Food Markets When it comes to food the people of Dalmatia like to have theirs simple, fresh and grown locally. There are no exotic spices or complex preparations, just natural flavours. And boy, do they taste great. In Split there is no shortage of fantastic ingredients, and there is no better place to get them than the local farmers‘ market and fish market, or as Splićani call them, Pazar (Pah-zar) and the peškarija (pesh kah ria). Now, in the mind of a foreigner it would be logical to keep these two close, but they are at exactly the opposite ends of the Riva, the main thoroughfare that runs along the quayside. This is mainly due to the fact that the peškarija is close to the former fishing port of Matejuška, while Pazar is near to one of the main roads since most of the veg is grown inland. The good thing is that Pazar is very close to the bus station and the ferry port, so if you can spare a few minutes before leaving for your favourite island you can stock up on veg since it‘s at least three times more expensive on the islands. Aside from its practical uses, Pazar is one of those places where the local population and pleasure-seeking tourists tend to mix without prejudice. It‘s a gathering place for people from islands like Brač, Hvar and Šolta, for the mountain people of Dalmatinska Zagora and for people from smaller local towns like the seven Kaštelas. All of them bring their produce to the concrete benches in the shade of the eastern wall of Diocletian‘s palace. Here you can find everything that grows under the sun, from strawberries, fresh or dried figs, lemons, grapes and pomegranates to wild asparagus, sun-ripened and sweet-smelling tomatoes, plus all kinds of green leafy veg like spinach and chard, aubergines, carrots, courgettes, goats‘ and sheep‘s cheeses, homemade jams and preserves, liqueurs and brandies, cured meats and fresh

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A large selection of fresh vegetables from Dalmatian gardens poultry. It‘s a veritable cornucopia of flavours and colours, garnished with the lively banter of the sales people who are hoping to persuade you to taste their goods and buy their products.

Some of these market sellers have been feeding the Splićani for generations. Depending on the time of day you arrive, Pazar can be quite an overwhelming experience, so it‘s sometimes wise to buy a cold beer at a nearby kiosk and join the locals in the shade waiting for the prices to go down towards the end of the day. Now you‘ve got all of your meat and veg and some wine and brandy, it‘s time to pick out a nice piece of fish at the fish market. The peškarija is located smack bang in the middle of Marmontova, the nice marble-paved street at the western end of the Riva. You must have seen it or at least smelled it out. No worries, due to the sulphur wells that brought Diocletian here, the air here keeps the fish hygienic as there are no flies. The fish market opens early, with the morning catch coming in even before 07:00, so set an alarm clock if you want the best pieces to end up on your grill.

Dalmatian people do not eat expensive fish like dentex, john dory or the other prize catches. These all go to restaurants or tourists. Locals prefer cheaper, smaller fish like sardines, anchovies, bonito, squid, seabream, mackerel and red mullet.

These fish are not only easy on the pocket, they‘re tasty and healthy too - the benefits of oily fish like sardine and mackerel are renowned. Feeling a bit nervous about buying fresh fish?

Just look for shiny scales, clear eyes and firm flesh. Check the gills too, which should be bright red. Now you bought it, you will have to gut it. Gross? Ask the person behind the counter, if they‘re not too busy they might oblige.

If not, best stick to the restaurants.

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Fresh tuna at the fish market

LOCAL FLAVOUR - Once upon a time you had to cross a small bridge to reach Pazar, Split‘s marketplace. Right alongside Pazar ran a railway track, which they later closed down. Along its route now stand kiosks selling piles of goods, clothing, shoes and a few food items. At one time on this bridge people used to exchange money on the black market (mostly German marks), as well as cigarettes, and jeans - which you couldn‘t buy anywhere else.

In the morning people would gather here eager to work, day labourers, and here alongside Pazar others would buy goods from farmers only to sell them on an hour later.

- Haggling!? To be honest, you‘ve got to have guts and talent for that. But experience shows that here, in true Mediterranean style, the stallholders are suckers for charm. A few kind words and who knows, alongside the head of lettuce you set out to buy you might get one free!

The Pazar of My Childhood Pazar! The stomach, the belly, the guts of the city! The Pazar of my childhood, even though, my father says, it‘s changed little over the years. It‘s still endlessly colourful, full of melodious sound as the ladies behind the tables shout over each other to bring in the buyers. Here are the smells of life, unbeatable scents, of cabbage souring in barrels, smoky dried meat, unwaxed oranges that spray out juice as you run your fingernail over the skin. It‘s the same, but different, different because when you‘re small everything‘s different, and when you grow up everything is more or less sentiment.

When you grow up you realise: it was the university of life, of gourmets, of gluttons, of epicureans, of deliciousness.

My father used to set off for work at dawn, my brother was small and my mother was a solicitous mother who tried to

Pazar - A Personal History Siniša Pavić grew up in Split and now lives in Zagreb. He shares with us his memories of Pazar, Split‘s legendary marketplace.

- Everyone has their favourites, everyone knows who has which spot on Pazar, which goods are sold where, and some things have become conventional wisdom, for example that the best greens are from Podstrana, the best soured cabbage is from Glavice near Sinj, and the best citrus fruits are from the islands... You can learn to be an expert in recognising the best produce, organically grown and sold by the person who grew it. If the lady behind the table has dirt under her fingernails that‘s a good sign, it means that she‘s been working the land.

- If you want the best prices come later on. ‚Cause at the end of the day, they sell everything cheaper just to get home. But they won‘t give it away for free.

Hrapačuša Night The village of Dol (Brač island) has its very own living legend – a lady named Barica wh o is proud holder of the title of World Champion in the making of Hrapačuša cake. Her Hrapačuša is a crescendo of nuts, lemon, caramelised sugar and egg yolk, a calorific atom bomb that induces an intense sugar rush and has been named “Dol Viagra” with good reason. Try Barica’s awardwinning cake in Konoba Toni or at island gastronomy festival Hrapačuša Night, 16th August.

Split In Your Pocket

Homegrown lemons from the Island of Vis newspapers - the things that were important indeed because they were the reason why people bought newspapers. A small boy could feel awfully big carrying bags of groceries home from Pazar. And awfully proud when the next day his classmates would pinch his sandwich with the hunter‘s salami, which you could only buy in the kiosk at the bottom end of Pazar. And endlessly flattered when his mother first said to him, «Come on, let‘s take a walk at the fish market.» The Peškarija, the fish market, a mythical place which you just have to stroll by, you don‘t have to buy a thing. It‘s enough to catch the scent

Maslinovo ulje Ostojić squueze everything in despite working morning shifts one day and afternoon shifts the next. It turned out that those inconvenient hours had their bright side. Because she couldn‘t make it, it would often be me who headed off to Pazar for our groceries. Probably my puppy fat and my evident satisfaction while eating convinced my mother that I could do no wrong.

And I wasn‘t half bad. She would hand me a list, and I‘d have the freedom to wander around the tables, weighing up the fruit and vegetables, careful not to fall for the honeyed tones of a mountain accent which reminded me of my grandparents, or the equally mellifluous island dialect. What gave my role even more importance was the fact that my mother would give me just enough money to ensure that if I spent wisely, a couple of dinars (that was the currency in those days) would be left over, so that after two or three trips to Pazar I‘d have enough for a comic. Even such a young age it was worth being shrewd, being satisfied with a cheap ice cream from the old-fashioned machines and remembering the important things from the headlines Ante called out when selling the

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and know that you‘re a part of that sea, that land, that city.

To leave Pazar, to leave for the big wide world was easy at first.

When you‘re a strapping teenager those things don‘t seem to matter. There are Pazars in other places, you think naively.

But there‘s always some connection, it‘s alive as long as your mother tells you during an evening phonecall about today‘s catch, or she tells you how you can now buy soparnik, that miraculous delicacy dreamed up by the poor people of the hinterland, by the slice, but it‘s not even close to the one my late grandmother baked in her fireplace.

However good those replacement markets might be, however colourful and full of scent, it‘s now clear that I miss that passion, that uncertainty whether a kuna will be left over for a comic, and I miss those shouts in dialects which my officially-proscribed accent never picked up.

«Why must they shout so?», I remember she asked when she first realised that in Split, on the market, you can‘t buy less than half a kilo, and nobody with any sense even asks. It‘s embarrasing, for goodness‘ sake, and they give you a good ticking off, even if you‘re the daughter of the President himself.

And what seemed to her like rudeness was for me the best poem ever, the best song.

While you sing the praises of their greens they praise your youth and good looks, even if it‘s clear that you left your youth and good looks somewhere by the kiosk with the hunter‘s salami. It‘s the same game wherever you go. Wherever you end up you try to cook sauce so it tastes just the same as that small boy remembers, who knew no greater satisfaction than to arrive home from school, break off a hunk of bread and dip it right into the saucepan before his mother caught him.

- «Dad, has anything changed?» asks the emigré son, himself now a father.

- «Almost nothing», says Dad. Almost nothing. Tell the youth of today that there are oranges and oranges, those from the supermarkets and those on the tables at Pazar, and how they are nowhere near the same thing and how they can‘t be, even though their mother tells them there‘s no difference. To have your own stallholder for eggs, a lady for chard, a butcher who won‘t cheat you. A lady at the fish market who‘ll give you a barely discernable nod to show which fish is fresh and which isn‘t... That‘s a matter of survival, of growing up, of evolution. Pazar, the fish market, coffee, newspapers. Confound it, that‘s it. There‘s no recession, no accounting law, no minister of finance who can take it away. As long as there‘s the human race there will be Pazar!

Siniša Pavić

Imotska torta

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LOCAL FLAVOUR

Pazar - mrvu zanimljivosti

Kopačina Lamb Festival

Nekad se do Pazara dolazilo preko malog mostića. Tik uz Pazar je, naime, prolazila pruga, vlakić, da bi se kasnije usjek zatvorio. Danas su po njemu kiosci s gomilom robe, odjeće, cipela, mrvu prehrane. Nekad su se na mostiću švercale devize, odnosno marke njemačke, cigare, traperice jer rebatinki valjanih za kupit nije bilo. Tu bi se jutrom skupljali i ljudi željni posla, nadničari, a tu tik uz Pazar nekad se od poljoprivrednika kupovala roba da bi se sat kasnije preprodavala.

- Ako je ‚ko voljan proć mrvicu jeftinije, bolje je ganjat kasnije sate. Jer, pred kraj radnog vremena sve će vam prodat za manju cijenu samo da odu doma.

No, u bescjenje neće ić.

- Svatko ima svoje favorite, zna se i gdje tko na Pazaru stoji, koja se roba na kojem njegovu dijelu prodaje, ma neka stvari su se uvriježile, recimo to da je dobra verdura iz Podstrane, kiseli kupus iz Glavica kod Sinja, agrumi s otoka...

Ma, valja biti majstor za prepoznat pravu, onu eko robu što je prodaje onaj koji ju je i uzgojio. Crno ispod noktiju tete za bankom dobar je znak, znak da je sa zemljom radila.

- Cjenkanje!? Iskreno, za to treba bit i talentiran i hrabar. No, iskustvo govori da se tu, onako tipično mediteranski, pada na šarm. Dvije, tri lijepe riječi i tko zna, možda uz glavicu salate što ste je ionako kanili kupiti dobijete još jednu mukte.

Na Pazaru od mog djetinjstva Pazar! Trbuh grada, stomak, trbuj! Pazar iz moga djetinjstva, makar se, kaže pape, malošto kroz godine promijenilo. I dalje je beskrajno šareno, i dalje je milozvučna buka dok se gospođe s banaka nadvikuju ne bi li navabile kupce, i dalje su to vonji od života, mirisi od kojih boljih nema bilo da je kupus što se u kacama kiseli, bilo da je su‘vo meso, bilo da je ona neprskana naranča iz koje sok pršti samo da je noktom zagrebete malo. Isto, a opet sve je drugačije, For all those who wish to read an interesting drugačije jer kad si dijete sve je drugačije, a kad narasteš sve je, manje više, story by Siniša Pavić, about Dalmatian cuisine, sentiment. Ma, kad narasteš onda znaš - bila je dobra škola, životna dakako, then we recommend the book, ‘Kužini s ljubavlju,’ gurmanska, izjelička, deliciozna, bonkulovićevska. because as the author says: ‘this is a story Pape je zorom išao na posao, brat je bio mali, a mati je bila brižna mati koja about people who love and enjoy food je nastojala sve stići makar je jedan dan radila jutarnju, a drugi popodnevnu smjenu. Pokazalo se kako u tom nesretnom radnom vremenu ima i ponešto dobra. Kako ona ne bi stizala, na Pazar bi po spizu išao često ja. Blagi višak kilograma, neskriveno zadovoljstvo dok se nešto slasno papa valjda su majku uvjerili kako sa mnom ne može promašiti. I bome, dobro me išlo. Ona bi dala spisak, a ja bi imao slobodu, pa bi šetao oko banaka, mjerkao voće i povrće, pazio da ne nasjednem na slatkorječivost vlaškog naglaska koji me podsjećao na baku i djeda, ili na jednako slatkorječivo otočko meko slovo ć. Da pak ulog bude čim veći, mati bi dala taman toliko novca da, uz pametnu potrošnju, može ostati koji dinar (tada se u nas valuta zvala dinar op.a.) taman da se u dvije tri šetnje po Pazaru skupi za kakav strip. Valjalo je, dakle, od malena biti znalac, onaj koji će znati odoljeti jeftinom sladoledu iz automata i koji neće zaboraviti bitno dok osluškuje Antu što prodaje novine kako na glas izgovara naslove, one bitne dakako zbog kojih se tisak i kupuje. Jedan je dječačić bio strašno velik dok je kući s Pazara vukao vrećice sa spizom. I strašno ponosan kad bi se sutradan kolege u školi otimale baš za njegov sendvič s onom lovačkom salamom koje nema nego u kiosku na dnu Pazara. I beskrajno počašćene kad mu je mati prvi put rekla: „Ajde, idemo prošetat Peškarijom.“ Peškarija, ribarnica, mitsko mjesto kojim se proć‘ mora, makar se ne kupilo ništa. Dovoljno je da se arija ovonja, pa da znaš da si dio toga mora, zemlje, grada.

Otić s pazara, otići u bijeli svijet isprva je bilo lako. Kad se zamomčiš ne čini se bitnim. Ima Pazara i drugdje, naivno misli čovjek. A i neka veza je uvijek tu, uvijek živa dok ti stara navečer referira kakva je na ribarnici bila ponuda, ili ti veli kako su evo i soparnik, tu čudesnu deliciju što ju je izmislila sirotinja iz zaleđa, počeli prodavat na fete, ali nije nijedan k‘o onaj što ga je pokojna baka na kominu pekla. No, koliko god zamjenske tržnice bile dobre i šarene i mirisne, sad je jasno da fali ona strast i neizvjesnosti hoće li ostat koja kuna za strip, i fali ona vika na dijalektu na koji se moja zakonita nikada nije navikla.

- „Što moraju tako vikati - sjećam se pitala je kad se prvi put suočila s činjenicom da joj u Splitu, na tržnici, nitko neće prodat manje do pola kila, niti će itko pametan manje od pola kila pitat. Sramota je brate, a i izruže te bez pardona, pa sve da si predsjednikova kći. A ono što je njoj nekultura, meni je najdraži stih, najdraže pjesme.

Ma, otišlo se, da bi se vraćalo, a dok se puti ne dogode trenira se naučeno. Jer temelji su tu i neke dobre navike su dane odavna, taman da svako putovanje, svaki slobodan tren, svaki odlazak u kupovinu bude vezan za pazare i tržnice, za peškarije i za tu finu igru što je igraju one koje prodaju i onaj koji kupuju. Pa dok ti njima hvališ zelenilo, oni tebi hvale mladost i lipost makar je svima jasno da je i mladost i lipost ostala tamo negdje kraj kioska s lovačkom salamom. Ta je igra svuda ista. I gdje god se dođe pokušava se skuhat toć da bude taman onakav kakvim ga pamti klinac kojem nije bilo većeg gušta nego doć doma iz škole, uzet pupu od kruha i pomacat ravno iz teće mrvu toća dok ga mater ne ulovi.

-Pape, je li se što promijenilo - pita sin gastarbajter i sam već otac.

- Skoro ništa - kaže pape.

Skoro ništa. Sad samo valja uvjeriti pomladak kako ima naranača i naranača, onih u supermarketu trgovačkih centara i onih na banku pazara, i kako to ni u ludilu nije isto i ne može biti makar joj mati kazivala kako nema tu razlike. Imati svoju kumicu s jajima, tetu s blitvom, mesara koji neće krsta na vagi, ribaricu na ribarnici koja će ti dat jedva primjetan mot glavom što je friško a što ne, to je pitanje opstanka i odrastanja, evolucije. Pazar, peškarija, kava, novine. Svega mu, to je to. I nema te recesije i fiskalne blagajne i tog ministra financija koji će to devastirat! Jer dok je ljudi bit će i Pazara!

Siniša Pavić

Konoba Kopačina, Donji Humac (Brač island), 01.06 Saturday – 30.09 Monday. Every Thursday, starting from around 19:00, you can try about 15 different specialities made from lamb, including lamb’s liver pate, lamb with broad beans and a host of different specialities. Be sure to reserve your table – it’s very busy

Split In Your Pocket

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Photo by Vedran Cvitković Local Dishes Chock-a-block with all this food and influences from various parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, Split is rich in simple tasty dishes you have never heard of but once you taste them you will never forget. So, how do you go about tasting all this if you don‘t have the good fortune of being invited to someone‘s house where mama will surprise your taste buds? One option is to go exploring among the many konobas (traditional eateries which used to be wine cellars where you could slice some pršut and cheese or eat salted anchovies after a hard day‘s work). You‘ll find these kinds of restaurants scattered around the old city and the market. Another option is to schedule your visit around the many gastronomic events happening all summer around Split, most of them based on a certain dish or ingredient. See our guide to food festivals in the Split region. What sort of dishes should you look out for? It depends on the season. Local people tend to stick very much to what‘s around at a given time of year rather than relying on greenhouse-grown produce or imports. So, in the spring, look out for dishes made with artichokes or for young broad beans prepared in a million different ways, for example with lamb, with squid ink… Mmm, it makes us hungry just thinking about it. Also watch out for “divlje zelje”, greens picked in the wild.

Summer is a great time for a piece of fresh fish simply grilled and served with chard cooked with potatoes; a black squid ink risotto with a refreshing green salad, or the classic family

Days of Varenik An unusual ingredient called Varenik is thought to have been made on Brač for 2000 years – it was mentioned during Roman times. It’s made by boiling red wine down to a concentrate, which is then stored in bottles and added to all sorts of foods, sweet and savoury, to impart a unique and rich flavour. During the time of the Varenik festival at the end of September, dishes are prepared showcasing the use of this ingredient, and the island’s restaurants have a range of specials on the menu.

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meal of deep fried sardines, red mullet or anchovies and a tomato and cucumber salad. In cooler seasons meat comes more to the fore, often cooked with vegetables in a stew-type dish. Look out for aramabašići a speciality originating in Sinj, a little way inland. These are little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried meats. These, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every special occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb. If you keep out a sharp eye you might come across a pogača hailing from the island of Vis or Hvar, a flattish breadcake containing a mixture of salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, capers and herbs depending on the version. Or from inland, look out for soparnik, a flatbread stuffed with chard and spring onions, scattered with garlic and almonds and drizzled with olive oil. These are specialities you might find on sale at Pazar market. On a sweeter note, look out for compressed cakes of dried figs (smokvenjak), commonly made at home and truly delicious. A speciality from the island of Hvar is forski medenjak, a biscuit made with olive oil and honey, though you‘ll probably have to make a pilgrimage to the Nonica patisserie in Hvar town to find it. And if you are in Trogir, look out for rafiole. These are little half-moons made from almonds and maraschino liqueur. Legend has it they were invented by a girl named Rafiola who was imprisoned in the Kamerlengo fortress until her love, a Trogir noble, came to rescue her. She baked him these little cakes ‘til the end of her days as a mark of her gratitude.

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LOCAL FLAVOUR Foodie Fests

October 2013 Dani bikle i Biklijada Maslinovo ulje Ostojić

03.07 2013 Wednesday - 06.07 2013 Saturday The Olive Oil Week

Photo by Robert Barilla

Vrgorac, www.tzvrgorac.hr. This inland town is home to a special dish, bikla, a combination of goats‘ milk and young local wine. This is served along with other local specialties like frogs in parsley and snails. All kinds of old crafts and culture are exhibited and homemade produce is sold.

I-2/3, Riva, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda, www.maslinovoulje.hr. One of Croatia‘s famous exports and by golly you‘ll meet an expert or two here. Get the be all end all of olive oil with shows on combinig olive oil with food and ingredients, as well as communication, design, labelling and packaging of olive oil products.

August 2013 Fešta od luka Ljubitovica. The little inland village of Ljubitovica, between Split and Šibenik, bears the honour of growing the best garlic in the country, a variety named šarac streaked with red. This festival is in honour of that vital ingredient and medicine, garlic.

06.09 2013 Friday Iz Solinskog lonca Gašpina mlinica , Solin, solin-info.com. The gastronomic happening „From Solin‘s Pot“ sees people compete in preparing dishes based on local flour ground at a local watermill - the mlinica. Dishes include home-made pasta in meat sauces, breads and cakes. Carbs galore!

April 2014 Biser Mora - International Culinary Festival

www.supetar.hr, www.dalmatinskikuhar.hr.The “Pearl of the Sea” festival collects several hundred chefs from over 15 countries every year, who present their cuisine through competitions, presentations, tastings and workshops.

There are meetings of sommeliers, olive oil tastings, and Brač gastronomy plays a special role in the proceedings.

26.04 2014 Saturday - 04.05 2014 Sunday Kužina o‘ Štajuna Festival Riva, Supetar, www.supetar.hr. As we all know, there‘s no better way to eat than organic, local and seasonal food since this is best for our bodies, best for the environment and for our communities. The name of the festival means “Seasonal Kitchen” in Brač dialect. It‘s held on the waterfront, and as you stroll past the stalls you‘ll have the chance to sample ingredients that are hard to find in other parts of the country such as chard, broad beans and wild greens - healthy and delicious.

May 2014 Fešta o‘ boba Kaštel Kambelovac, www.kastela-info.hr. A.k.a. the Broad Bean Festival, where local housewives compete in preparing traditional and imaginative dishes all made from broad beans, from stews to cakes, even ice cream. You have to taste it to believe it!

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RESTAURANTS

RESTAURANTS Symbol key P Air conditioning

6 Animal friendly

T Child friendly

N Credit cards not accepted

U Facilities for the disabled

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

E Live music

M Nearby metro station

G Non-smoking

J Old Town location

S Take away

W Wifi

International Aci Grašo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 85

60, restaurantadriatic@yahoo.com, www.adriatic-graso. com. With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the Aci Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking is free. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 110kn). PAGB Adriana I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, info@adriana.hr, www.hoteladriana.hr. This sprawling restaurant on the Riva always attracts a crowd. Why? It’s a prime location for people watching and the food is top notch. Try the seafood risotto or any grilled meat or fish dish. There is live music on weekends and sometimes on weekdays come summer time. Fairly priced! QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (60 - 110kn). PAGB Apetit I-2, Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-) 098 173 07 36, apetit.split@gmail.com, www.apetitsplit.hr. Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards a modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting green colour, and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian classics are prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just a twist to bring them up to date. There are vegetarian choices, and top quality wine is served by the glass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 100kn).

PJAGW

Light bite Šperun deva H-2, Šperun 2. Firstly, there exists Šperun

and Šperun Deva! In the first you can eat and dine well, and in the other you can definitely take advantage for breakfast or a good glass of wine and cheese. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (20 - 60kn). PJNBX

Split In Your Pocket

Bistro Toć J-3/K-3, Šegvića 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 84 09, bistrotoc@yahoo.com. Curl up among the greenery and stone walls of this cozy little terrace, decorated with sailboat pictures and hanging plants. Offers a vegetarian menu, such as grilled tofu salad, grilled cheese with soy sauce and zucchini spaghetti with salsa. For meat lovers, chicken spaghetti, gulaš and sarma, is also available. For dessert, a snickers or jaffa cookie cake are like tasting heaven in a bowl. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (45 - 115kn). PAGBXW Boban E-3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. (+385-21) 54 33 00, info@restaurant-boban.com, www.restaurant-boban. com. The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared with traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This place does it all, and does it well. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 120kn). PAGBW Cardo J-1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotel-atrium.hr. A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that encompasses all of the Mediterranean’s charm and a wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet and is sure to please. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn).

PAGBW Duje D-2, Ulica slobode 16a, tel. (+385-21) 54 81 00, mail@restoranduje.hr, w w w.restoranduje.hr.

This restaurant is situated in Gripe close to the sports recreation centre - Koteks. It’s a classic family eatery with a predominately Italian cuisine and a solid choice of wines.

QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (65 - 400kn). PAGB Kadena E-3, Ivana pl. Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94 00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85, info@restorankadena.com, www.restorankadena.com. Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Kadena is just one of the many delights on offer.

QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (60 - 130kn).

PAGBW Le Monde H-1, Plinarska 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 65.

Dine with a touch of class as this slightly hidden restaurant boasts a trim interior and a choice of terraces. Dalmatian fish and meat specialties are on the menu along with local wine. It’s tucked away in the busy Varoš district but worth the visit. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn).

PAGBX Mediteranium Put Firula 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 23 79, mediteranium@live.com, www.mediteraniumsplit.com.

New to town and has a spark of class to it. Located close to the beach, the menu reverberates both modern and balanced with fish and meats nicely paired. Informative waiters, fair wine selection with fair prices... And the Lounge Bar is set up to unwind with purple fluorescent lights in the backdrop and light music. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (65 - 147kn). PAEBW split.inyourpocket.com

NoStress Bistro I-2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-) 091 335 12 32. Located on the famous, Narodni Trg, this ultra-chic bistro is decorated with an abundance of flower pots, adorning the terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. A great spot to chat with some friends or view the latest fashion trends walking by the square, while nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian region, such as wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese or beef fillet steak with creamy saffron sauce. During the summer season, it’s open until 02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a cocktail at night. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. (80 - 220kn). A6BXW

Pizza Theirs is of the thin-crust variety, and the centre will more closely resemble a soup if you don’t give it time to cool.

There’s no shortage of variations on the theme, and a bonus for the economically challenged is the relatively miniscule price of a pie, 25 - 45kn. Key to toppings: feferoni (peppers), frutti di mare (seafood), gljiva (mushrooms), maslina (olive), rajčica / pomidor (tomato), sir (cheese), slanina (bacon), šunka (ham).

Galija I-2, Kamila Tončića 12, tel. (+385-21) 34 79 32.

The interior curves around in a U shape with the bar near the entrance. You may get a little confused looking for the bathroom but that’s all part of the fun. They serve a wide selection of pizzas and they come in not big, but massive portions QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (38 110kn). AGB Gušt J-1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 63 33. You’ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it’s right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right. After 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again. There you’ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas.

QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (36 - 50kn). PAG

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RESTAURANTS Maslina I-2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88, kon-

maslina@net.hr. A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova.

The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 120kn). PAGBW Velo misto No 1 H-1, Matoševa 63, tel. (+385-21) 38 47 77. There are two Velo Misto’s, one located in Spinut near the tunnel which offers a decent wood-fire pizza and the other Velo Misto is located in Zenta (Šetalište Kalafata bb) with a huge terrace that overlooks the sea. Velo Misto by the way, was the name of a popular TV series with performances by top Split theatre thespians. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. (32 - 140kn). PAG Zlatna vrata J-2, Dioklecijanova 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 50 15. Located inside the palace walls, this restaurant takes the name ‘The Golden Gate’ and is surrounded by a lovely courtyard that brings much needed shade come summer.

The wood fire oven produces great thin based pizzas. The salads are significantly filling. QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (20 - 60kn). PNGB

Seafood Bota Šare D-3, Bačvice bb, tel. (+385-21) 48 86

48, botasplit@gmail.com, www.bota-sare.hr. Situated right above the Bačvice Beach with an extensive seafood menu, this eatery is extremely popular amongst locals and tourists. A refined interior and extensive wine list provide the finishing touches. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (30 - 400kn).

PAGBW Jugo C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 89 00.

Fish dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to your liking. Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with magical views of the old town. The yachts moored in the ACI Marina are only a stepping stone away making the walk on the Riva ever so pleasant. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 120kn).

PAGBW Mistral F-3, Put Trstenika 19 (Radisson Blu Resort, Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, info.split@radissonblu. com, www.radissonblu.com/resort-split. Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over two decks. The bar is literally on the beach and packs refreshments of every sort imaginable.

Fast food Delta I-2, Obala kneza Domagoja bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 84 60. Stop in for a quick pastry snack and tasty sandwich. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (10 - 18kn). B Kantun Paulina I-2, Matošića 1, tel. (+385-21) 39 59 73. Some situations just call for a nice serving of ćevapi, namely strolling half-drunk up Marmontova, and this little stand on the corner serves them up right.

There’s no seating available but you can park it on a bench at the street and watch the night-time drama unfold. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 10:00 - 23:30.

Mc Donald’s D-2, Put Brodarice 6 (Center Joker), tel. (+385-21) 49 33 20, www.mcdonalds.hr. It is there. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (7 - 39.5kn). PABW Rizzo I-2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 83 49/ (+385-) 091 574 07 64, www.rizzo.com.hr. Another player in the local snack game along with Bobis, Rizzo offers up a range of sandwiches made on freshly baked bread that function perfectly as a mid-day or midnight snack. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (6 18kn). NBW Split In Your Pocket

RESTAURANTS If you’re peckish, Mistral serves up specialties in seafood and meat on the grill, plus other delicacies. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.

(100 - 700kn). PTA6LEGBXW Noštromo I-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, info@restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restorannostromo.hr. Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well.

Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.

QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). PNGB Posejdon I-2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49.

Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer.

It’s located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace, when you pass ‘Ispod ure’ (under the clock tower) simply turn right. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 200kn). PJAGBW Stellon D-3, Uvala Bačvice bb, tel. (+385-21) 48 92 00, davor_stellon@net.hr, www.restaurant-stellon.com.

Stelon’s menu is loosely based on Mediterranean cuisine.

The restaurant overlooks the beach and has a pleasingly contemporary ambience, creating relaxed surroundings for enjoying a good meal. Be sure to reserve your seat during the summer! QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:30.

(45 - 145kn). PAGBXW Zrno soli C-2, Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 93 33/ (+385-) 091 561 22 84, zrnosoli.split@gmail.com, www. zrnosoli.hr. This restaurant has class written all over it. New to the scene, it is stylish both in and out, it is located at the ACI Marina and has lovely views of the yachts. The cuisine is Mediterranean, the service is second to none and if you do not mind forking out the extra dollar, you will definitely get what you pay for. Quality all-round! QOpen 08:00 - 23:30.

(80 - 100kn). PAGBXW

Small plates & sweet treats

Traditional Fife H-3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52

23/(+385-) 098 40 37 30. Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00.

(10 - 50kn). PNGBX Hvaranin H-2, Ban Mladenova 9, tel. (+385-) 091 767 58 91. To experience Dalmatia you simply have to dine in a konoba, ‘small old stone buildings’ where fisherman once spoke tales and cooked their catch. This is no exception as fresh fish are aplenty here. The mussels and white risotto deserve a mention plus a wide range of home made rakija. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 24:00. (70 - 300kn). PNGW

Vegeterian Makrovega I-2, Leština 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40, info@makrovega.hr, www.makrovega.hr. If you’re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg…you’ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown or organic.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 70kn). PNG split.inyourpocket.com

Bobis-Riva I-3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda 20. A Split institution, Bobis has been providing the city’s citizens with delectable eats since 1950. There are a load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has arguably the best location, as it’s right on the Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or choose a prewrapped one to take with you for your hike around Marjan.

QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. PNGB Creme de la Creme I-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+38521) 35 51 23. You have a sweet tooth and the craving has hit, so why not wander down to one of the newest pastry shops in town. Fantastic cakes, homemade pastries, and desserts served with coffee, liqueurs and juices. Its minimalistic interior includes some trendy retro details, everything looks simple and refreshing. Located opposite the movie theatre Karaman, they also have a terrace for some outdoor peace and quiet. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.

PAGBXW split.inyourpocket.com

Galerija J-2, Dominisova 9. The imaginative and pleasant decor pays perfect compliment to the sweets on offer and the music tinkling away in the background is a nice touch. A good alternative to the standard dessert places around town. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. PRNGBW Kuća kolača F-3, Ruđera Boškovića bb, tel. (+385-) 098 930 07 54/(+385-) 095 926 40 30. Love your cakes and want to try the traditional home recipes of the region, look no further as the staff here serves homemade cakes, sweets and salty pastries. There is no seating so it is all take out and on the go. Not bad if you would like a nibble on the beach! Q Open 09:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun. N Kuća sladoleda Carmen I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 49 89. Cool off at Kuća Carmen as they offer you a wide range of ice-creams and beverages. From the creamy to the fruity, it has it all the flavors. It’s close to the Croatian National Theatre, therefore hard to miss.

QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. PNG Riva I-3, Obala hrv. narodnog preporoda 20, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 84. The proprietors of Riva meet the pastry demands of coffee-sipping Riva-ites nicely with a whole selection of handmade delights, including authentic French tarts and pastries. Unfortunately, it’s not actually a house - all the pastries are take-away only. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. NS Tradicija I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 10 70.

This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition - just as the name itself! QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. N Summer 2013

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RESTAURANTS Wine bar Klub gurmana i hedonista K-3, Kuzmanićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 380 39 66. A fancy schmancy interior that houses traditional Dalmatian wines, authentic souvenirs and gift packages! The bar is set in a traditional stone building, perfect for wine and only minutes from the Riva. The owner Igor is quite the connoisseur, he does offer wine tastings accompanied with various local delicacies. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. NW Paradox I-1, Poljana Tina Ujevića 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 58 54. This has ‘Dalmatia’ written all over it with over 100 wines and 20 or so cheeses that are primarily local produce. Pick and choose whatever suits your taste buds. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00.

PJAGBXW Kod Joze J-2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97. Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 140kn). PAGB Konoba Leut H-2/3, Siriščevića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 44. This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals as it offers good quality home-style cooking. A classic of Dalmatian cuisine is pašticada - stewed beef served with gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual variant on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad beans. We particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice - clams. Plate salads are also on the menu for a lighter bite. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.

(40 - 120kn). PAGBW Konoba Nevera E-3, Put Firula 17, tel. (+385-21) 38 87 36/(+385-) 099 501 74 85, www.konoba-nevera. com. Ahoy matey! All aboard this fish restaurant decorated in a nautical style with an anchor, compass and fisherman statue, placed among the uber-chic stone wall interior and gorgeous mosaic glass lamps hanging over each table. A great place for when you’re in the mood for Mediterranean seafood cuisine, such as shrimp risotto, calamari, octopus salad and grilled fish. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (50 - 100kn).

PAGBXW Konoba Varoš H-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros.com. It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.

(30 - 150kn). PAGB

Out of town Baletna škola Don Frane Bege 2, Kaštel Kambelovac, tel. (+385-21) 22 02 08, info@restoranbaletnaskola.com, www.restoran-baletnaskola. com. Immersed in a pine forest, only a few meters away from the sea, it’s located 15min from the center of Split by car. Named after the first ballet school in Dalmatia, which was opened in this very spot over century ago, it is now renovated as a restaurant and offers a variety of dalmatian specialties, such as black risotto and grilled fish or meat, which can be savoured while listening to traditional klapa music. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (50 100kn). PALGBXW Split In Your Pocket

Bajamonti I-2, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 10

Oštarija u Viđakovi D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/(+385-) 091 565 46 27. With a fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this is a familyrun bistro serving up some of the best traditional fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dishes if you’re in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things cosy wherever you choose to sit. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 360kn). PAGB Pimpinella E-3, Spinčićeva 2a, tel. (+385-21) 38 96 06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, pimpinellast@yahoo.com.

A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family house.

The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada, roast lamb with vegetables and much more. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (45 - 70kn). PA6EGBSW Šperun H-2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99. A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings. The daily special is often a good bet. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn).

PJAGB Tratorria Tinel H-2, Tomića Stine 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 97. Try out some delicious Dalmatian specialities among the stone walls and white wooden tables, bar and credenza that give a homey feel to this restaurant. It’s a great place to eat when you’re not sure what you’re in the mood for since the menu has a large variety of choices to satisfy everyone’s cravings. Chicken, mixed vegetable or calamari salads, with a side of fish or cream of shrimp soup can be enjoyed for starters. Tortellini with four cheeses, homemade gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, green pasta with salmon or veal steak served Viennese style are great choices for a main course.

Live entertainment with traditional Dalmatian music every Friday and Saturday.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn).

PAGBXW Zlatna ribica I-2, Kraj Sv. Marije 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 87 10/(+385-) 091 767 71 69. Unpretentious little bar located by the fish market serving scrumptious fried seafood to famished locals and savvy tourists alike. Temporarily hide the guidebook and camera and you will fit right in. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00. (35 - 60kn). PNG

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33. The stunning Prokurative Square is home to this brand new classical café and restaurant which is named in honour of Antonio Bajamonti, a famous 19th century Mayor of the city. Choose to sip coffee downstairs or head upstairs to the restaurant and terrace which houses Croatian and in particular local Dalmatian cuisine combined with assorted Mediterranean, French and Italian specialties. Opened just weeks ago, it is sleek and of high quality. QOpen 07:30 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. PAGBX Ćakula D-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 6, tel. (+385-21) 78 23 38, www.kavana-cakula.hr. Right on the Riva, the sea breeze gently blows whilst you order your beverages from sunrise till dawn. Choose from the fine range of beers, spirits, liqueurs, and cocktails on offer and don’t forget peruse the café interior with its renaissance like frescoes in what is a gorgeous setting. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PJABXW Favola I-2, Trg braće Radić 1 (Voćni trg), tel. (+385-21) 34 48 48. A much needed coffee and newspapers? Here’s a great opportunity to sit back and take pleasure in this café along Fruit Square (Voćni trg). In Dalmatia they’d state its location as the second row by the sea, meaning it’s not coffee on the waterfront but directly behind it. It’s name is Italian for fairytale and we must absurdly state that the female toilet is unusually narrow! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. PGBXW Gaga I-2, Iza Lože 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 82 57. In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local folk. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. PNBXW Kavana Figa I-2, Buvinina 1, tel. (+385-21) 27 44 91, linda.vladislavic@gmail.com. Right from the Voćni trg, in the narrow passage you’ll find this hip bar with comfortably fitted and colourful chairs and benches on the outside which contrasts to its industrially fitted interior. The cool exterior and décor is adjoined by the varied offer of light meals, from classical breakfast and salads to pasta and fish, and all at value for money. As the day goes by, you will be able to choose one of the cocktails and enjoy this place and its complete offer which is available at any time of the day, until late night.

QOpen 08:00 - 02:00. PNGBXW Libar I-2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, service@caffe-libar.com, www.caffe-libar.com. ‘Libar’ in local dialect means ‘a book’ and though this isn’t a library the café interior is chock-full of handmade themed items. Cosy ambiance indoors and terrace views that say WOW. Watch sporting events live, respectable choice of beers and wines at reasonable prices. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00.

PJNBXW Lvxor J-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82, lvxor@lvxor.hr, www.lvxor.hr. A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor’s location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality of the location. There’s wireless Internet, magazines and daily newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu that includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and

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Photo by Vedran Cvitković breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions are places on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PAGBXW Po Bota I-2, Šubićeva 2. If you prefer an intimate affair, come to this café bar which doubles up as an art exhibition of the local artists. The terrace borders onto the Fruit square (Voćni trg) giving a friendly local atmosphere. QOpen 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. PGBXW Teak caffe J-2, Majstora Jurja 11, tel. (+385-21) 78 20 10, teakcaffe@gmail.com. Yep, the interior is all done up in teak and lined on one side by the original northern wall of the palace. Outdoor seating is available in a pleasant courtyard, cozily surrounded by the stone walls of neighbouring buildings.

Q Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 14:00, 19:00 - 24:00. PNGBXW Teraca Bamba H-3, Solurat 7, tel. (+385-) 091 311 09 98. Give the interior of this one a pass unless the need arises to weave your way through the tables and patrons to visit the unisex bathroom. Until then, soak up the resplendent view from the terrace of ships to-ing and fro-ing across the harbor. For best results, experience with an attractive significant other. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. PNBXW Up Café Domovinskog rata 29a, www.upcafe.hr.

An ultra-modern, chic oasis of healthy food and natural beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredients, without any additives. This healthy cuisine, offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos, sushi, miso soup, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets to munch on for dessert, such as a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nougat squares, taste great along with a Bazara arabic coffee, biofruit juice or organic tea. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 17:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. Žbirac D-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b, akrapante@ gmail.com, www.zbirac.hr. It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge! QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

PNGBXW

Casino Casino Platinum D-2, Domovinskog rata 49 a, tel. (+385-21) 27 48 00, casinoplatinum.hr. Located in the Domovinskog rata Street in Split, close to the city centre, free parking garage with 24h surveillance, it has more than 100 slot machines, large screens, live game tables, poker tournaments, sport betting bar and enough entertainment to keep your night rolling etc. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

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NIGHTLIFE

WHAT TO SEE Essential Split Diocletian’s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) I/J-2.

Bars

Clubs

Buža I-2, Priora Petra 7. Nestled alongside a group of

Hemingway C-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel.

narrow bars lies Buža, a smaller alternative spot where one can enjoy the nights with rock music. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.

Closed Sun. PJBX Ghetto J-2, Dosud 10. Furry, fluffy seats complemented by a funk and disco soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and bees. Symbolic? You decide. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00. PNBXW Legends bar E-3, Uvala Bačvice. Wanting some beachfront vibe, then saunter up to this night bar on Bačvice, the city’s iconic beach. It’s a jazz/rock n blues bar with things heating up every summer as live concerts are often staged outdoors. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

AEBXW Merita & Dino J-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Merita & Dino squeezes a great deal into a small space, with spiral staircases linking an upstairs-downstairs jumble of expertly mis-matched furnishings and bright interior colours. There’s plenty of loungey furniture to slump into, and a popular terrace outside. Serves draught Guinness. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PNBXW Na kantunu J-2, Dominisova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 91. Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at least fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you’ve picked up any of the local sporting patriotism since your arrival in the city. Na Kantunu’s real advantage however is the old-town location, with outdoor seating in a small square.

Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed Lobkowicz, it’s also an outstanding place for a beer. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. PBX

Split In Your Pocket

(+385-) 099 211 99 93, split@hemingway.hr, www. hemingway.hr. Nope, your fancy trainers won’t cut it here, darlings. In fact your plimsoles won’t even make it past the door. This is Split’s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai. QOpen 08:00 06:00. PAGBXW Jungla A-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića bb, tel. (+385-) 095 897 29 21. The new season at this beach bar Jungle (located under Šetalište I.Meštrović) starts with an electric beat and continues in that rhythm all summer long. You’re invited! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:00 06:00. PNGBX O’Hara E-3, Uvala Zenta 3, tel. (+385-) 091 794 13 49, info.ohara@gmail.com, www.ohara.hr. Small groups of Split’s young hell-raisers mark the way to their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with club hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink specials. If you’re in the mood for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere. A lounge and bar area provides temporary escape from the club crush. QOpen 08:00 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. AGBX Vanilla C-2, Mediteranskih igara 21, tel. (+385-) 098 163 62 72, www.vanilla.hr. Match the look of Split’s beautiful people who frequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. You’ll find two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes on the speakers and a hip decor.

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 05:00. PAGBX

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A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian’s palace has become the quintessential “living museum”, as modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex.

The part of the palace known as “the basement” was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history.

Now, it’s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace. And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures.

Riva I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda. If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks.

Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and

Museums Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) C-2,

Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, info@armus.hr, w w w.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski.

Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including pre-historic, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski pomorski muzej) K-2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-

21) 34 73 46, hpms@hpms.hr, www.hpms.hr. Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you’ll miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It’s located inside the Gripe

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hugs the palace on its south side. It’s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching.

The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv. Dujma) J-2. Eleven of the

twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral.

More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona. After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.

Veli Varoš H-2. Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.

The Meštrović Gallery, view from the terrace fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nineteenthcentury Rijeka. To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Sun open by prior arrangement. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Ethnographic Museum Split (Etnografski muzej)

J-3, Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, etnografskimuzej-st@st.t-com.hr, www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr. If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery

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WHAT TO SEE

Photo by Antonio Miše and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years. Q Open 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. July - September 14 Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) A-3,

Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39 01/ (+385-21) 32 39 05, muzej@mhas-split.hr, www.mhassplit.hr. Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war. A trip to the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection

WHAT TO SEE of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) J-2, Papalićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, muzej-grada-st@st.htnet.hr, www.mgst.net.

The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s most respected families, built a small palace to serve as their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Galleries Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) J-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21)

36 01 55/(+385-21) 36 01 65, muzej-grada-st@st.htnet. hr, www.mgst.net. Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifully-restored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (18721953). Croatia’s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidović’s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating re-creation of the artist’s former studio - including dolls,

curios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović’s life can be seen on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine - Kaštilac

Photo by Vedran Cvitković

Split In Your Pocket

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B-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+38521) 34 08 00, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr.

Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1962.

A five-minute walk further west along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a 16th-century summer house bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel.

Inside lies what is arguably the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years’ work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture. Q May September Open Tue - Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and hoildays. October - April Open Tue - Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon and holidays. Admission 15kn Children, 30kn Adults, 50kn Family.

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Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina) J-2, Ulica kralja

Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 12, fax (+385-21) 35 01 11, galerija-umjetnina@galum.hr, www.galum. hr. Recently re-opened in its brand-new home (a restored former hospital), Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included. Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chin-strokers to ponder over. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Zoo Zoološki vrt C-2, Kolombatovićevo šetalište 2, Marjan, tel. (+385-21) 39 45 25. Despite the presence of the occasional exotic beast here and there, Split’s zoo is a rather modest affair that displays local farm animals alongside the odd Croatian wolf, boar or vulture. And unless you have kids in tow who need entertaining, there’s not much point in coming to be honest. The cages do contain some odd combinations, with peacocks, rabbits and sheep all sharing one enclosure, and a bemused ostrich rooming with the Shetland ponies in another. The zoo’s stampeding herd of guinea pigs will trigger nightmare visions for anyone who remembers the “Trouble with Tribbles” episode of Star Trek. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

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WHAT TO SEE

WHAT TO SEE The Church of Our Lady of the Bell tower (Crkva Gospe od Zvonika) I-2. Just inside the Iron Gates inside

Diocletian’s Palace you will find the entry to a chapel. Founded in the 6th century under Byzantine rule, the chapel was consecrated to St Theodore, patron saint of soldiers. It’s bell tower, built around the year 1100 is the oldest Romanesque bell tower in Dalmatia. The chapel was renamed after a 13th century medieval icon which once hung in the chapel and is now kept in the Cathedral Treasury.

The Church of Saint Francis (Samostanska crkva sv. Frane) I-2, Trg Republike. When you climb to the

Marjan Mountain, you’ll pass by the church of Saint Francais (13th century) in which there are headstones that depict renaissance fine art. The headstones are of famous writer Marko Marulić (1450-1524), the tombs of Jero Kavanjanin (1641-1714), Toma Arhiđakon (around 1200-1268) as well composer Ivan Lukačić (1548-1648). Numerous baroque paintings and statues decorate the inside of the church, not to mention the gothic cloister on the outside.

The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) J-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5. The treasury holds a

collection of golden artifacts and church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar katular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th century.

Churches

area was covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude). The Franciscan church and monastery is the most valuable gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The church and monastery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts.

The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the 15th century and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virgin’s feast days and on the first Sundays of the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its construction.

Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 08:30, 10:00 and 20:00. Q Open by prior arrangement.

The Saint Clara Monastery and Church (Samostan i Crkva sv. Klare) K-1, Klarina 1a. A well maintained

church which is home to a painted 13th century Romanesque crucifix, several icons as well as renaissance and baroque paintings by Venetian artists.

The Church of Saint Mar tin (Golden gate) (Crkvica sv. Martina) J-2. The church is 1.64m wide and

Landmarks

The Franciscan Church and Monaster y of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crk va i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) C-1, Poljudsko šetalište 2,

99/(+385-21) 30 69 08, hnk-split@hnk-split.hr, www. hnk-split.hr. The story of Croatia’s National Theatre in Split is long and complicated but begins on December 26, 1859, right near the beginning of a period of autonomy in the city.

Antonio Bajamonti was, during a brief respite from Venetian and Austro-Hungarian control, the city’s leader and a principal investor in the theatre that ultimately bore his name. Sadly, that theatre was almost completely destroyed in a fire in 1881 and plans to re-build on the original site were never realised.

The theatre was relocated to its present location on (street) and has resided there since.

Grgur Ninski J-2. In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a

10m long and it just might be the smallest church in the world.

It used to be the passage for watchmen who would secure the entrance into the Diocletian Palace. At the beginning of the 9th century it was turned into a Christian church and consecrated to Saint Martin. Next to the church, there is a Dominican convent. The first nuns arrived to Split in the 14th century and settled next to the church at the Golden Gates.

They were called picokare. Today, the nuns take care of the nearby Cathedral of Saint Domnius.

tel. (+385-21) 38 13 77, zupa@samostan-poljud.com, www.samostan-poljud.com. On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you’ll find the Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives from the Latin word swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this

As you stroll through Split, it’s hard to miss the monasteries, chapels and churches which are a major part of the city’s history. Our little IYP tourist guide simply has to mention some of the grand holy sites that inexplicably reverberate the message ‘take out your camera and start snapping’. And with every snapshot, comes a story.

The gothic church of The Holy Spirit is located on Trogirska Street and further on is the renaissance church of Saint Rocco which dates back from 1516; it’s situated on Peristil. Here you can get loads of tourist advice and information. Venture down to the south of Peristil where there are two chapels, Gospa od Pojasa (Our Lady of the Belt) from 1544 and Gospa od Začeća (Our Lady of Conception) from 1650. In Veli Varoš on the Marjan down hills, you can see the Church of Saint Nicholas built from the 12th century and on its right, there is the Church of the Holy Cross with its baroque bell tower.

Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište) I-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 49

Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) J-2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel.

(+385-21) 32 34 71, samostan.split@dominikanci.hr, www.dominikanci.hr/dominikanski-samostan-splitsamostan-sv.-katarine.html. Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic’s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the 19th century.

See the preserved baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 18:30. Q Open 06:30 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30.

Split In Your Pocket

Miljenko Smoje is a Croatian journalist, author, and screenwriter. The television series, ‘Naše malo misto’ (‘Our Little Town’), was filmed based on a book by the same name and up to this day is still enjoyed by younger generations. Photo by Luka Nižetić Photography

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Photo by Vedran Cvitkovic firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions.

In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck).

Poljud Stadium (Stadion Poljud). Known to locals as “Poljudska ljepotica” or the “Poljud beauty”, Poljud is the second largest stadium in Croatia (after Maksimir Stadium in Zagreb) and has a capacity of 35,000 people. The stadium was originally constructed by the Yugoslavian government as part of the facilities for the 1979 Mediterannean Games and was officially opened by Josip Broz Tito, who was an avowed fan of the team who play their home games in Poljud, HNK Hajduk Split. There are numerous anecdotes about Hajduk never playing a game without at least some of their loyal fans in the stands, the Torcida. Named for Brazilian football supporters that impressed Hajduk fans during the 1950 World Cup (in Portugese, torcer is ‘to cheer’), the Torcida are one of the most dedicated football supporters groups in Europe.

Along with the team’s rich history, Hajduk is also known for cultivating quality football players, with several going on to illustrious careers in European club football. Suffice it to say that when the Croatian national team placed third in the 1998 World Cup, five of the eleven starters were former Hajduk players.

Prokurative (Trg Republike) I-2, Trg Republike.

Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a large, open square surrounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate neo-Renaissance buildings known as the Prokurative. On the southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of the harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started during the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision of

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WHAT TO SEE General Marmont, with the buildings inspired largely by the architecture of the same period in Venice. While relatively unoccupied in the cooler months, the square comes alive in the summer with concerts and cultural events, the most popular being the Entertainment Musical Festival of Split.

The Blue Tree D-2. If you happen to walk along Vukovarska Street, also dubbed as ‘tree avenue’, then you will come across ‘The Blue Tree’, a new 7.5 meter art installation made of steel. It is located close to the atelier of Vasko Lipovac, the local born sculptor who produced this art work and it commemorates his crafty and grandiose opus.

tower, both of which were constructed in 1435. The northern side of the square is dominated by the Milesi Palace, one of the best examples of Baroque architecture in Dalmatia. The statue that stands in front of the palace is relatively small but represents a large figure from Croatian history, that of Marko Marulić, a 15th-century poet who was one of the first literary figures to use Croatian language. The statue was created by another eminent Croatian historial figure, Ivan Meštrović.

Streets and Squares Marmontova Street (Marmontova ulica) I-2. From

1806 to 1813, Napoleon ruled the city of Split, along with many of its Dalmatian neighbour-cities. Apparently, the French demanded to occupy a relatively sophisticated city, as many urban improvements were made under the supervision of the French General Auguste Marmont. Walls were torn down, new roads were built and electricity powered the city for the first time. To return the favour, Split has immortalized Marmont in the name of this popular pedestrian street, full of posh shops and cafés.

Narodni (People’s) Square (Narodni trg - Pjaca)

I-2. A trip west from the Peristyle along Krešimirova takes you through the Iron Gate and into Narodni trg, commonly referred to as Pjaca, a Croatian form of the Italian word piazza. In the fourteenth century, this square replaced the Peristyle as the city’s central meeting area and it remains so to this day.

The square is overlooked by a Romanesque clock with the remains of a medieval sundial in front of a larger, older belfry and contains numerous shops and cafés. The north side of the square is taken up by the Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), a fifteenth-century construction that hosts art or history exhibitions in the summer months.

Voćni trg (Fruit Square) (Trg braće Radića) I-2.

Now home to various shops and businesses, Trg braće Radić was once home to a bustling fruit market and so has been given the unofficial name of Voćni trg. This translates to, you might have guessed, fruit square. These days there’s no fruit in sight, but there are several shops and points of interest that call this square home, including the Venetian castello and

Photo by Antonio Miše

Split In Your Pocket

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Marjan Forest Park Your first impressions of Split may well be the immense stone buildings that surround the city and its orange terracotta roofs clashing with the serene blue sea in the foreground. Yet there is a greener side to the city that deserves a mention. The Marjan Forest Park is the so called ‘lung’ of the city. Located west, the hill is 178 metres high and at its highest point is 3.5 km long. Its forestation process began in 1852 and over time has seen the park become a haven for locals and visitors.

Few inhabitants can resist the peace and tranquillity the park offers, the great little getaway from the rushes of life. The biodiversity of species is vast from small mammals and bird inhabitants as well as the reintroduction of game (rabbit, partridge, roe deer…). Aleppo pine dominates the area along with the dispersal of flora and fauna.

When strolling through the park the churches, galleries, museums and monuments recount the glory of Split.

Highlights include the 15th century Church of Saint Jere with the relief of Saint Geronimo and close by there is the Ascetic Cave where Saint Geronimo supposedly resided There is the Meštrović Gallery, the Karepića Tower used for shelter against invaders and the famous Marjan Steps offer amazing photo snapshots.

Almost the entire area of the Marjan is a network of stone drywalls, a construction made of natural stone which has been a part of the Croatian coast and the Mediterranean since the prehistoric times.

Jogging and cycling tracks attract many fitness goers and the St. Benedict Bay, also known as Bene, has a Sports and Recreation Centre great for young and old.

The beachside facilities are second to none.

Come for a picnic, take in some fresh air or simply discover the alluring Marjan Forest Park in all its glory, a park which has enchanted generations of Split residents.

Public Institution for the Marjan Forest Park), Cattanijin put 2, phone (+385-21) 38 40 97, tajnica@ marjan-parksuma.hr, www.marjan-parksuma.hr.

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MAKARSKA RIVIERA

Makarska Tourist Board Archives Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great long stretch of pure hedonism.

If you take the scenic route, the coast road hugs white pebble beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, attracting sun-worshippers like bees to sugar water. You’ll pass through Omiš, once the stronghold of renowned pirates, a delightful old town where the River Cetina plunges through a spectacular canyon into the sea.

Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some old, some new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at Brela a straight stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the looming hulk of the Biokovo mountains. This is the Makarska Riviera, and this is where you’ll find some of the most photographed, most famous and most prized beach resorts on the Adriatic.

This coastline basks on average in 2750 hours of sunshine per year. The sea is incredibly clear and inviting, with an average year-round temperature of 20˚C reaching summertime peaks of 23-27˚C. Apart from the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and seafood, chard, tomatoes and olive oil. In high summer you can enjoy the luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other times sweets and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus fruits and cherries. And of course, there’s plenty of local wine.

Most resorts of the Makarska Riviera are not particularly old, although archaeological finds testify to life here since the Neolithic period. The coast spent long centuries under threat of invasion from seafaring invaders, so settlers built their village on high ground under the protective shoulders of the mountains.

After a strong earthquake in 1962 reduced many of these ancient homes to rubble, the villagers descended to start a

Split In Your Pocket

new life beside the sparkling waters of the sea. The building of hotels started in a big way, and this became one of the most popular and attractive spots for holidaymakers in Europe.

In recent times the realisation has dawned as to what was lost when those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a treasure trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular mountain settings, they have great architectural and ethnological value. The village way of life was synonymous with music and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention agriculture and food. A number of traditional konobe (taverns) are now open offering great hospitality and authentic Dalmatian cuisine.

As well as the villages in the immediate vicinity of the resorts in this guide, from Makarska it’s an easy ride to some larger places in the Dalmatian hinterland such as Zagvozd, Imotski (with its Red and Blue Lakes) and Vrgorac, famous for its seven towers built during the Ottoman wars, as well as the well-preserved historical village of Kokorići.

Take your pick. Tour the coast and find your perfect slice of heaven: a rocky cove or a stretch of perfect shingle. Take a trip inland and discover the age-old culture of the region. Take a hike to the highest peak of Biokovo and see Brač and Hvar islands lying peacefully at your feet. Hire a bike or indulge in a wealth of watersports. Summertime calls!

Baška Voda Baška Voda is one of the busiest resort on the Makarska Riviera. With a fair selection of shops, bars and restaurants, in summer it has the atmosphere of a lively little town.

With plenty of reasonably-priced accommodation in hotels, campsites and private apartments, Baška Voda is popular with young people and families with children. There’s plenty

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to do, from sports of all kinds to beach bars that transform into night clubs, and no shortage of entertainment laid on.

Baška Voda’s ancient core, known as Gradina, lies on a mound just uphill from the waterfront. The names on ancient gravestones testify that the site has been inhabited since Illyrian times, about 4 centuries BC. The Greeks traded here and the Romans settled here - the latter named the town Aronia.

Fortifications were built in the Middle Ages when this coastline was constantly invaded: there are sections of the bastions still standing today. This is the site of important archaeological finds such as amphorae, coins, jewellery and glass, which you can see in the town museum. There’s also a museum of shells - the Malacological Museum.

The inhabitants of Baška Voda once made their living by fishing, as well as farming the fields of nearby Baško Polje, where today there’s a large camp site. However, there are still plenty of vineyards around so you can buy local wine direct from the barrel - just bring your own container!

When Slav tribes sacked the coast in the 7th century, Aronia was destroyed. Life retreated into the mountainside villages of Bast and Topići - themselves largely depopulated since the 1962 quake. Nowadays, the architectural and cultural value of these villages has been recognised: Topići has been proclaimed in its entirety a protected heritage site and Bast offers a number of picturesque places to stay. Both will charm you with their folk architecture and delightful scenery, and both can tempt you with some authentic Dalmatian cuisine in old-fashioned taverns. They’re also ideal points to start a hike to the Sveti Ilija peak (1642m). A less demanding walk is the 6km coastal path that leads through the delightful little resorts of Promajna, Bratuš and Krvavica.

Baška Voda Tourist Board Obala sv. Nikole 31, tel. (+38521) 62 07 13, info@baskavoda.hr, www.baskavoda. hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

October Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Brela A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump in and enjoy them is irresistible.

This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative

Makarska Tourist Board Archives scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. The beaches here have won numerous international accolades.

Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head up the mountainside towards the older parts of the settlement.

A local society is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the culture of old Brela: it’s well worth taking a trip up the mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into their visitor centre where you can find out about the old churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted around.

Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point for exploring the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst landscapes, endemic species, incredible views and adventure sports challenges.

You’ll find maps and information at the information centre that’s also located there.

Brela Tourist Board Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel. (+385-21) 61 84 55, info@brela.hr, www.brela.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Drvenik 29 km south of Makarska is a deep semi-circular bay with the village of Drvenik clustered at its head. The shore is dotted with coves and sandy bays. It’s peaceful, friendly and the scenery is gorgeous - it’s a great place for a peaceful

Arriving on the Makarska Riviera The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km away. The airport is served by domestic and international scheduled flights, as well as charters during summer. For timetable information, see www.split-airport.hr. To get to Makarska you’ll need to take a bus or hire a car. For more information about travelling to and from Split, see page Arriving & Transport in Split.

By car: if you take the A1 motorway , take the Šestanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 14kn in one direction for a car from Split, 171kn from Zagreb. From Split, there is also the Adriatic highway. Take a detour inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omiš if you’re travelling at the weekend during peak season.

By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) and Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolodvor.com.

By train: Makarska is not served by the railway network.

Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, then transfer by

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bus. Rail timetable information: www.hznet.hr.

By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin on Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from Sućuraj on Hvar island. For information see www.jadrolinija.hr.

Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports. From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the island of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj) you need to travel south to Drvenik.

For taxi transfers to and from the ferry ports, check out www.connecto-taxi.com.

Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk Obala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 67 95 15. On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry tickets. Q They open one hour before the ferry departures.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor Makarska) Ante Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel.

(+385-21) 61 23 33. There is one desk for information and tickets, open daily 05:00 - 22:30. The manned left luggage facility (no lockers) has the same working hours as the ticket office, price 10kn per day per item.

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Makarska Tourist Board Archives holiday (and has free wifi internet too!). From here you can also hop on a ferry to Hvar island - it’s best if you have some wheels so you can explore. Drvenik is overlooked by a hilltop fort and the 15th century church of St George in the old hillside settlement.

Drvenik Tourist Board Donja Vala 241, tel. (+385-21) 62 82 00, info@drvenik.hr, www.drvenik.hr.

Gradac When we arrive at Gradac, 44 km south of Makarska, we’ve come to the southern tip of the Makarska Riviera. Again, several small villages make up the Gradac district: as well as Gradac itself there’s Drvenik (above), Brist, Podaca and Zaostrog. Each is a small, friendly, quiet and laid-back resort in itself and there are plenty of delightful beaches to choose from. Again, the older culture of these places lies in the hillside settlements. There, as well as prehistoric mounds you’ll find a 16th century defensive tower in Čista and the old chapel of St Pascal on Plana hill. A point of significant interest in Zaostrog is the 16th century monastery of St Mary.

The monk and poet Andrija Kačić Miosić lived and worked here, and is buried here. He wrote a very popular book of folk verse which both served as a historical document and helped develop the modern Croatian language.

Gradac Tourist Board, info@gradac.hr, www.gradac.hr.

Gradac Tourist Information Centre Trg Soline 11, tel. (+385-21) 69 73 75. Open 08:00 - 21:30.

Makarska As you can guess from its name, the fine old town of Makarska is the administrative and cultural heart of the Makarska Riviera. Harmonious stone buildings cluster around a busy waterfront lined with cafés and restaurants.

Sailors and fishermen potter about their business; tourists stroll lazily in the heat. The whole scene is framed by the

Split In Your Pocket

MAKARSKA RIVIERA formidable Biokovo mountains above.

There’s a luminous quality to the light thanks to the sunshine reflecting from the white stone of the cliffs, the houses, the flagstones and the clear azure sea. With the coastline fringed by white shingle beaches and swept by refreshing breezes, it’s not hard to see why tourists started to arrive at the turn of the 20th century.

The first hotel was built in 1914, and many more in the period following the Second World War. Sometimes large but still pleasant, the hotels were built amid the pine forests, preserving the beauty of the natural landscape and the character of the town. The riviera started to attract a healthy slice of the tourists arriving to these lands for their holidays.

Today in high summer the beaches and hotels are packed to capacity, and the nights are alive with people enjoying the balmy air and buzzing around the restaurants, bars and clubs.

But escapists can still find tranquil corners and experiences off the mass tourist radar.

There is much more to Makarska than sun, sea and fun.

The city’s roots reach back to the 4th century BC, when it is thought to have been used as a trading post by the Cretans.

The Illyrians were the first tribes to truly leave their mark here, naming the settlement Muccurum. The Romans first wrested control over these lands in 228 AD. The Ostrogoths chased out the Romans in 548, and the Slavs settled here in the 7th century. They made Muccurum (now called Mokra) the centre of their principality, which was famous for its invincible pirates. Then followed long centuries when the Turks, the Venetians, the French and the Austro-Hungarians battled for dominion over the territory. Each left their mark, resulting in the pleasing mix of historic buildings you see today.

Perhaps the most important historic building in the town is the Franciscan monastery, five centuries old. It has a Malacological Museum (or Museum of Shells, it has some spectacular specimens), a picture gallery and a library. The Institute of the Mountains and Sea is also based there. The town’s main square, Kačićev trg, has the Church of St Mark, an art gallery, library and music school. On the waterfront you’ll find the town museum and the Church of St Philip. The church of St Peter resides on a green headland in a delightful park. Our What to See pages tell you more about the sights.

What’s more, it’s well worth exploring the mountainside villages such as Baškovići, Kotišina, Makar, Puharići and Veliko Brdo. This is where the local people sheltered for centuries from invaders approaching from the sea. You’ll come across fortresses, chapels, stone shelters used by shepherds, terraces and even a botanical garden at Kotišina.

It was founded by Father Jure Radić, the Franciscan monk from Makarska who also founded the Museum of Shells.

Father Radić also created a nature trail on Biokovo which is just one option for a spectacular hike.

Gallery The Antun Gojak Town Gallery (Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka) Ulica don Mihovila Pavlinovića

1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, galerija. agojak@makarska.hr. The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988 by Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska’s Van Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska’s first town gallery in the building of the former grammar school. Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska’s cultural life. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

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Podgora Tourist Board Andrije Kačića Miošića 2, tel. (+385-21) 62 55 60, tz-podgora@st.t-com.hr, www. tz-podgora.hr. Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Tučepi

Makarska Tourist Board Archives Although largely depopulated following a strong earthquake in 1962, in recent years efforts have been made to renovate and revive the original customs and culture of the upland villages. With amazing views over the coast and islands, these are wonderful places to enjoy some peaceful moments and unique cultural experiences.

Makarska Tourist Board Obala kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-21) 61 20 02, tzg-makarska@st.t-com.hr, www. makarska-info.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Podgora Clustered at the foot of a green slope backed by dramatic peaks, it’s not hard to see how Podgora got its name, which means under the mountain.

With a long history as a fishing village and a tourist tradition dating back to the 1920s, Podgora is a sleepy place of 1,500 souls which swells more than fivefold in the summer - it’s second only to Makarska when it comes to tourist numbers.

It’s not hard to see why: the combination of white shingle, green pine and rocky grey mountain are a tourist’s holy trinity.

This is a laid-back resort enlivened by almost nightly performances from mid-June to the end of August: classical music, heart-stirring Dalmatian klapa groups, rock and folk dance performances bring drama and culture to warm evenings.

As elsewhere, Podgora’s inhabitants for centuries relied on the hinterland for protection and sustenance. The attractive old inland settlement of Gornja Podgora is worth looking round and serves as an entrance point to the Biokovo Nature Park.

Following the coast road towards Dubrovnik, the following places also fall within the Podgora district: Drašnice - a tiny place, the 2001 census found some 300 souls here. There’s a choice of pebbly coves, and with a little effort you can find some quiet spots. In one of the coves there’s a cave named Medvidina where a local fisherman reported seeing a Mediterranean Monk Seal - a critically endangered species.

Igrane - barely larger with 400 inhabitants, this pleasant little place clings to the foot of the hills and has a lovely long sand and shingle beach. One sight of interest is the Zalina kula tower built in the War of Candia between the Venetians and the Turks. There’s a picturesque waterfront and the olive oil and fishing industries are alive and kicking. Živogošće - Now we’re 20 km away from Split, heading south. Živogošće is a resort made up of a string of five tiny hamlets: Strnj, Porat, Mala Duba, Blato and Murava. Newer homes and a couple of hotels lie alongside the water; the older settlements are on the upper side of the coast road.

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A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Makarska Riviera - a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling easy access into the dazzling blue water.

Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riviera - the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of invasion. You’ll find a treasury of history and folk architecture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone buildings.

In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy locals started to build fine villas along the seashore. The best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard is today a good hotel, Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911 became the home of the Tučepi Oil Growers’ Collective, founded on the initiative of local priest and teacher Father Mate Šimić. It is probably due to the work done by him and the association that Tučepi’s olive oil is rumoured to be the best on this stretch of coast.

Around these fine villas modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century. Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta rooftops, there’s a delightful air of breezy holiday chic. A summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St Anthony’s day (Tučepi’s patron saint), while the ka Kultura festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside villages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji, Šimići and Podstup.

Tučepi Tourist Board Donji ratac bb, tel. (+385-21) 62 31 00, tzo-tucepi@st.t-com.hr, www.tucepi.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

What to see Museums Gradac Museum (Muzej Gradca) Uz Kuk 6, Gradac, tel. (+385-21) 69 75 61, info@museum-gradac.com, www.museum-gradac.com. A private museum in a traditional family home in Gradac, a village in the far south of the Makarska Riviera. The idea of setting up a museum has been alive for generations in the Andrijašević family, and collecting and displaying the material has been a labour of love, aided by donations of items from helpful neighbours. Mainly consisting of everyday objects testifying to the way of life in the 19th and 20th centuries, there are five collections: fishing,

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cooking, carpentry, sailing and music. There are also a fragments from a Roman villa rustica. There’s a lovely collection of folk costumes, and everything is displayed in authentic surroundings. Q June Open 09:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission 10kn.

from the Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the world. So, whether you’re a budding biologist or a curious passer-by, there’s sure to be something that will take your breath away. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admission 10 - 15kn.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej)

Beaches The Makarska Riviera is famous for its wonder ful beaches, some of which are several kilometres long.

The beaches are usually shingle or pebble smoothed by the sea into rounded shapes which are comfortable to lie and walk on. The white beaches fringed by thick pine forests and the refreshing crystal clear waters are among the main attractions of the Makarska Riviera.

Here are some of the best of the beaches.

Dugi rat Beach (ex Punta Rata Beach), Brela - This beach is regularly nominated as one of the loveliest in Europe, if not the world. Its white shingle turns into coarse sand at the water’s edge, making it ideal for children. It’s backed by pine trees which provide welcome shade when the sun is at its strongest, a perfect spot for an afternoon nap. This is the beach where you’ll find the Rock of Brela sitting just off the shore, covered in ancient crooked pines. As the beach is in the centre of the pleasant resort of Brela, there are plenty of restaurants and cafés along the waterfront as well as sports equipment for hire. Živogošće Beach, Živogošće - Olive trees and pine forests grow alongside the lovely shingle beach at Živogošće, so this beach is a great place to keep your cool and take a refreshing dip on even the hottest day.

Nearby Hotel Nimfa is a good place to find something to eat and drink, and has tennis courts, an open-air swimming pool and other leisure facilities.

Nugal Beach, Tučepi - Nugal Beach is a famous naturist beach on the Makarska Riviera. It’s located east of Makarska, not far from Tučepi. It’s hidden by steep cliffs; to get to it you need to take a stroll through a lovely pine forest. This is a piece of heaven for those who enjoy the freedom of sunbathing and bathing in the clean sea just as nature intended.

Mala Duba Beach, Živogošće - This beach made of small white pebbles stretches through the whole village of Mala Duba at Živogošće. Part of it is reserved for naturists. This is a spectacular spot where the mountains plunge right into the sea on the idyllic, pine-fringed shoreline. It’s a great place to enjoy an evening stroll and watch the sun go down. Hotel Nimfa has entertainment on summer evenings. There’s a small market where you can stock up on delicious, locally-grown fruit and vegetables.

Berulija Beach, Brela - This beach, 400m long, is made up of three little coves, perfect for those who prefer more intimate beaches to long stretches of shingle. The beach is well equipped with toilets and showers, there’s a lifeguard on duty and wheelchair access. Plenty of shade is available in the pine forest behind the beach.

Gornja Vala Beach, Gradac - Gradac is a lively little resort with a number of hotels with discos and bars open all night. The harbour here provides perfect shelter for small vessels in bad weather. Gornja Vala beach is the longest beach on the Croatian Adriatic and one of the most famous of the Makarska Riviera’s shingle beaches.

It’s located just south of the little harbour. This is a scenic spot at the foot of the mountains. Pine and olive provide shade, and there are plenty of sports facilities. There’s a small naturist beach a short distance away.

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Srida 3, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 02 61. Baška Voda’s Malacological Museum, like that in Makarska, has a collection of molluscs not only from the depths of the Adriatic but also from other seas around the world. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3 - 5kn.

The Museum of Fish, Crustaceans and Molluscs (Muzej riba, rakova i školjki) Ulica fra Filipa Grabovca

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Makarska Town Museum (Gradski muzej Makarska) Obala kralja Tomislava 17/1, Makarska, tel.

(+385-21) 61 23 02, gradski-muzej-makarska@st.htnet. hr, www.mdc.hr/makarska/index.htm. Makarska’s town museum is a great place to find out about the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and summertime hedonism.

It covers the history of the region from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth of archaeological artefacts as well as material covering the customs and culture of the seaside areas and the mountain villages. The Museum building, the waterfront Tonoli Palace, is a historic treasure in itself. Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

The Ar chaeological Museum Collection (Arheološka muzejska zbirka) Blato 12, Baška

Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 06 95, tonijurisic@net.hr. Traces of human habitation on the Makarska Riviera coast date back to the Neolithic age. This museum covers the period from these prehistoric beginnings up to the 7th century AD. The nations that settled and passed through here during that time include the Illyrians, the Greeks, the Romans and the Slavs. This makes for an interesting mix of artefacts in this pleasant little museum, with some highly attractive pieces on display. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Admission 8kn.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej Makarska) Franjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21)

61 12 56. Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty in the world around us (including under the sea), Friar Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind in the country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that studies molluscs - a large branch of the animal kingdom that includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus and squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are about 3000 shells in the collection and a collection of invertebrate fossils. There’s also a collection on the flora of the Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region.

The collection of shells includes some spectacular specimens

The Turkish Caves You’ve read a lot about the turbulent years of the Turkish invasions and the local’s defence strategies. One particularly interesting example is the so-called “Turkish Caves” near Podpeći, near Tučepi. This is where people took their families and livestock to hide till the danger had passed. They’re called turske peći in local dialect, peći meaning “caves”. And hence the name Tučepi!

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bb (Listun), Makarska, tel. (+385-) 091 596 88 98. A little different in scope to the Malacological Museum, this institution collects only local specimens and collects fish and crustaceans (e.g. crabs, lobsters and prawns) as well as molluscs. The collection includes some 200 specimens including some incredibly rare and interesting beasties. Q Open 08:30 - 13:00, 17:30 - 22:30. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Churches Church of Our Lady of Carmel (Crkva Gospe od Karmela) Soline, Brela. The lovely old Church of Our Lady

of Carmel is a votive church built to give thanks for the victory of Christian fighters against the Turks at Sinj in 1715, a battle that ensured freedom from Ottoman dominion for miles around. For this reason, the church was consecrated as Our Lady of Victory. The church stands in a wooded spot close to

Makarska Tourist Board Archives the shore, a simple, low-slung structure with a cross-shaped floor plan, a semicircular apse and a belltower with a low roof supported on eight column. Mass: Sun 09:00, 19:00.

Church of Our Lady of the Rosary (Crkva Gospe od Ružarija) Igrane, nr. Podgora. The slender bell tower

of Our Lady is a startlingly pretty sight perched on a hill above this coastal village. The church dates back to 1752 but was significantly extended in the 20th century. The bell tower was built between 1923 and 1925: a wedding-cakelike construction with four layers of columns encasing an open staircase. It’s not unlike the famous campanile of St Duje in Split.

Excursions Makarska is well located to act as a base for exploring the surrounding coastline, highlands and islands. In the hinterland you’ll find towns and villages where time has stood still, full of history and folk culture. Within easy reach are the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Korčula, each with its own identity and story.

All along the Makarska Riviera tourist boats offer day trips to the islands, usually with a rustic fish dinner included in the Photo by Phil Newman price.

An interesting place to explore is the delta of the River Neretva, 62km south of Makarska. This region’s cuisine is based on freshwater food: you can sample frog and eel.

Close by are the Bašćina Lakes, near to the town of Ploče.

Though not large, they are geologically significant due to their setting in the karst landscape. There are seven lakes in all: Lake Oćuša, Crniševo, Podgora, Sladinac, Vrbnik, Šipak and Plitko jezero (“Shallow Lake”). Lake Vrbnik, the smallest, is the only one which isn’t connected to any of the others. There is large number of endemic and protected species here, both plant and animal. Bathing is allowed: the lakes are on average 3°C warmer than the sea, making this a popular spot for bathing, rowing in traditional wooden boats called lađe, and surfing.

The infamous pirate stronghold of Omiš lies at the mouth of the River Cetina, 37km north of Makarska. Further north still, Split, Solin and Trogir all feature UNESCO World Heri-

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tage sites. We also recommend Sinj, famous for its unique contest of equestrian and military prowess, the Sinjska Alka. Sinj is also home to a miraculous painting of Our Lady, making it a place of pilgrimage. Other interesting places in the Cetina region include the historic town of Trilj, which also offers plentiful opportunities for adventure sports.

No visitor to the Makarska Riviera should leave without taking a trip into the Biokovo mountains. It’s a half-hour drive to the highest peak, but with steep hairpin bends it’s not a drive for the faint-hearted - anyone with a fear of heights would probably rather join an organised tour. On your way up you’ll drive through centuries-old stone villages such as Gornji Tučepi. A meal in a rustic tavern here is a real treat. The Biokovo Nature Park has a botanical garden with numerous native and endemic species, and there are plenty of interesting biking and hiking trails in the area. On the south-east slopes of the Biokovo mountains, close to the border with Herzegovina, is the mediaeval town of Vrgorac. It is famous for its seven stone towers built during the times of the Turkish invasions. An essential destination for anyone looking to get acquainted with the folk customs of times past is Kokorići village. Here you can enjoy the restored stone buildings and learn about the traditional way of life in the region. Further north, also close to the Herzegovinian border is the mountain town of Imotski. Of particular interest here are the Red and Blue Lakes set deep into the mountains. They take on their colour from the surrounding rock.

Finally, it’s a pity not to take advantage of the chance to pop over to the islands. From Makarska you can hop on a ferry to Sumartin on the island of Brač. If you’d like to go to Hvar, head south to the ferry port at Drvenik. Hvar and Brač are large, diverse and culturally rich islands - you’re best off exploring them by car if you’ve only a day to spare.

But even if you just pop over to enjoy the slow island tempo for a day you surely won’t regret is.

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Brela Tourist Board Archives Apart from a collection of furniture and implements dating from the 18th century, the church has stained glass windows added in 2001 created according to the designs of two contemporary Croatian artists. Mass: Sun 11:00.

Church of St Anthony of Padova Srida sela, Gornji Tučepi, tel. (+385-21) 62 32 51. The hillside hamlet of Srida sela has a large and impressive parish church built between 1898 and 1901 to serve all the hamlets that make up Gornji Tučepi. Even though the hamlets were largely depopulated following the 1962 quake, this is still the parish church of the Tučepi area. It’s built in quite a different style to most Dalmatian churches: it has a pale lemon façade with a neo-Classical doorway, plaster mouldings and a large semicircular window in the frontage. The church’s ceiling is painted with images of the Assumption and of St Anthony of Padova, and all windows are in stained glass. A statue of Friar Ante Gilić, who constructed the church, stands at the bottom of the nave. Mass: Sun 11:00. Q Open 10:00 - 12:00, 16:30 - 18:30.

Church of St Philip Neri (Crkva sv. Filipa Nerija)

Obala kralja Tomislava (50m from Hotel Biokovo), Makarska. You’ll find this little church and its belltower seemingly interspersed between two houses right on the waterfront. Its construction was initiated in the 18th century

by Bishop Stjepan Blašković, originally as part of the complex of the Monastery of the Sacred Oratory which was later burned down. Bishop Blašković is buried by the main altar here, as is his nephew, Bishop Fabijan Blašković. A local legend has it that one night the sound of the organ playing softly was heard emanating from the locked church. The townspeople interpreted this as a sign from Bishop Stjepan that he’d like to be moved. They opened his grave and to their surprise they found his body perfectly preserved. They interpreted this as a miracle, although a likely explanation is the action of sea salt. Whichever way, the grave was closed and the eerie organ music was never heard again.

Church of St Stephen the Martyr (Crkva sv.

Stjepana prvomučenika) Donje Selo, Brela, tel.

(+385-21) 61 86 18. At the end of the 19th century, a growing population along the seashore at Brela was in need of a church, so the Church of St Stephen was built in 1889 on the site of an older church. Standing in a thicket of pine, it’s a pleasant stone building with a pure white belltower added in the 1950s. The interior is beautifully airy, its light walls spangled with colour from colourful stained-glass windows.

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The main altar was carved in marble in 1897 by a stonemason from Split. An altarpiece depicting St Stephen, St George, St John and St Paul dates back to 1890 and is the work of an Italian painter. An altar to Our Lady was bought in Venice in 1825. Mass: 07:30, Sun 09:00, 11:00 and 20:00.

Monastery of the Holy Cross (Samostan sv. Križa)

Živogošće, nr. Podgora. A community of Franciscan monks arrived in Živogošće in 1563 following the destruction of their monastery in Herzegovina by the Turks. In 1620 they finished building their monastery and church just uphill from the beautiful seashore, by a source of fresh water. The Turks attacked again in 1647, sending the monks into hiding on Hvar island. They returned and rebuilt, improving the church and monastery and adding a bell tower. In 1967, when the population of the coast swelled after the big earthquake destroyed many homes in the hinterland, the monastery’s Church of the Holy Cross became the parish church serving the population for miles around. Mass: Sun 08:00, 10:00.

St George’s Church (Crkva sv. Jure) Tučepi. This little treasure is a rare example of a well-preserved mediaeval chapel on the shores of the Makarska Riviera. It looks a bit lost as it’s surrounded by large hotel buildings, but it’s utterly endearing with its simple adornments and stone roof. It was built in 1311 on the site of an oratory attached to a Roman villa rustica, which was itself replaced by a mediaeval basilica and cemetery. This is an interesting archaeological site with

The Vepric Shrine On the main coast road heading west from Makarska, set into the slopes of a hill is the shrine of Vepric, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The forested, hilly landscape with a brook in the valley is reminiscent of Lourdes, the miraculous Marian shrine in France, which is probably why in 1908 Bishop Juraj Carić founded the Vepric shrine. It has a little grotto similar to the one where Our Lady appeared to the young girl Bernardette Soubirous in 1858. Fully equipped for the large numbers of pilgrims that flock here, the shrine has a chapel, an altar, confessionals, stations of the cross and paths for processions as well as buildings for retreats and the pastoral staff that work here. If you’d like to enjoy a few moments of quiet contemplation in the lovely park here you might best avoid the main feast days of 11 February, 25 March, 15 August and 7-8 September.

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the remains of the villa rustica and headstones around the chapel. One headstone bearing a portrait of its owner is unusually elderly, dating from the first century.

St John’s Church Gornja Podaca, nr. Gradac. Despite its unassuming looks, this little church in the mountain hamlet of Gornja Podaca is one of the most valuable examples of pre-Romanesque church architecture in Dalmatia. It was built in the 11th or 12th century thanks to an endowment by the Kačić family of local nobles.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) Trg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 13 65.

Viewed from a distance, the terracotta-tipped belfry of St Mark’s Church marks Makarska’s central square, the heart of the town. It is sometimes referred to as Makarska’s cathedral, since right up to 1828 Makarska had its own bishop who had his seat here. Since 1828 Makarska has part of the Archdiocese of Split-Makarska. The bishop has his seat in Split, so nowadays St Mark’s has the status of a co-cathedral or collegiate church: a church with no bishop but otherwise similar in importance to a cathedral. Its interior is certainly impressive. Construction of the church started in 1700 and it was consecrated in 1756 although never completely finished.

The Makarska bishops began creating a religious treasury befitting the status of the diocese, resulting in a wonderful collection of religious artworks and liturgical items created by craftsmen from Venice, Italy and Austria as well as local masters. In common with the architectural treasures of the town, much of the religious collection reflects the Baroque spirit prevalent at the time of its creation. The treasury is an important chronicle not only the development of the Catholic Church during that era but also of trade relations and cultural exchange.

St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) Gradac, tel. (+385-21) 69 75 88. A single-nave church built in 1852 on the site of a Roman-era settlement just uphill from the shore in the centre of Gradac. Its bell tower was added in 1962 and modernised in 2002. The Latin inscription above the door reads: “This temple consecrated to Saint Michael was built in the year of our Lord 1852 with the help of Franz Joseph I, Emperor and King, and the hard work and unity of the people of Gradac, for the administration of Josip Bilas, on land donated by the Šutić family.”

St Michael’s Church (Crkva sv. Mihovila) Igrane, nr. Podgora. This is the oldest mediaeval church on the Makarska Riviera, built at the end of the 11th century or the beginning of the 12th century. It has a unique construction and is a protected cultural monument. High up in the foothills of the Biokovo mountains, for centuries this tiny church served the people who lived in the mountain settlements and it had the status of a parish church. It has a single-nave construction with a stone roof and a bell above the frontage.

St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) Obala sv.

Nikole 73, Baška Voda. This church consecrated to the patron saint of Baška Voda sits at the top of an elegant sweep of stairs in the centre of town. It was built in 1889 in a neoRomantic style. Two small bells sit atop the church frontage, while the belltower to the right was added in 1991. In 1987 colourful stained glass windows by contemporary painter Josip Botteri Dini were installed, and a year later modern paintings of the Stations of the Cross painted by Josip Bifel.

Mass: 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:00.

St Peter’s Church St Peter’s Peninsula, Makarska.

This simple little church was built in the 15th century on the foundations of its forerunner from the 6th century. The church is sited on the forested St Peter’s Peninsula, which protects Makarska’s harbour. In front of the church and dotted round the peninsula you’ll find the ruins of buildings dating back to Roman, Venetian and prehistoric times. The forest park and the view of the town and the mountains make it well worth enjoying a stroll here.

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Taste of Makarska Th e M a k a r s k a Riviera has a very close relationship with the hinterland and with M ou nt Bi okovo - the hinterland and the coast simply can’t function without one another. Many of the dishes of the Makarska region have their roots in the hinterland.

You can find excellent Biokovo cheese flavoured with fresh herbs freshly picked on the pristine hillsides. The cows and sheep reared in this region and whose milk is used to make the cheese spend their days in these idyllic - if precarious - surroundings. One speciality of the region is kaštradina - a stew made with dried and smoked lamb, mutton or goat meat. Kaštradina comes from the cauldron of the Biokovo shepherd, whose wisdom inspired Greek philosophy”, says Veljko Barbieri, a famous Croatian food writer. Another speciality worth hunting down is the Biokovo peka - four kinds of meat (lamb, veal, goat meat and chicken) cooked under an iron lid heaped with embers. Then there’s pašticada ; a Dalmatian classic - beef studded with bacon and garlic and stewed in red wine. If you come across a type of vegetable called motar you must try it - it’s samphire, a plant that grows wild in coastal areas, including on the Osejava peninsula and on the islands. It can be mixed with any combination of wild spring vegetables such as chicory, dandelion, spinach, tender broccoli spears or collard green, and it is excellent served with octopus. Or try one of the fabulous big cabbages that grow in Biokovo gardens, often whipped up by locals into a tasty tomato-based stew.

Finally, a wonderful delicacy from Brela is a special cake, sweet or savoury, called blitvenjak, made with chard (mangold). Th e s w e e t ve r s i o n is prepared with walnuts. The locals on the Makarska Riviera are extremely proud of their olive oil, which you can buy for about 80-100 kn per litre. The olive-growing tradition in Tučepi is so strong that they have built a monument to the olive mill on the waterfront, featuring millstones used in the oilmaking process. And finally, dessert. If you come across ravioli in Makarska or Baška, they are a sweet treat consisting of light, crumbly pastry with a sweet walnut filling. And Makarska’s most famous cake is the Makarana: a harmonious blend of butter and eggs, lemon and orange peel, almonds, maraschino cherry liqueur and a couple of secret ingredients.

You simply have to try it!

Photos by Vedrana Vela Puharić

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MAKARSKA RIVIERA The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) Obala hrvatskih

The Biokovo Mountain

Without those great grey mountains rising steeply from the coast, the experience of being on the Makarska shoreline would be much less of a thrill. That view is just so spectacular: in some places the cliff rising above the little seaside resorts is almost vertical and so close it feels like the shoulder of a protective parent. In many senses, the mountain has protected and sustained humans for millennia, so Biokovo is pretty much the mother lode of culture and general fabulousness in this part of Dalmatia.

Biokovo is not a single mountain but a range of mountains that stretches from just above Brela almost to Igrane in the south, about 25km, about half of the Makarska Riviera. It’s part of a larger system of mountains called the Dinaric Alps, a 645 km long range that stretches along the Adriatic from Slovenia in the north to Albania in the south. The Dinaric Alps, as you might guess, are which is itself part of that famous range so beloved of chocoholics. The mountains are made of limestone deposited at the time when this was a flat sea, before tectonic movements sent the earth skywards. Limestone is a soft rock that is easily moulded by water. This kind of landscape is known as karst and is well known for having fascinating formations including caves and sinkholes where rivers dive underground. The highest peak of Biokovo, Sveti Jure, is 1762m high, the third highest peak in Croatia. Due to its geomorphological, biological and cultural diversity, almost all of the Biokovo range has been declared a Nature Park. It is home to a wild variety of wildlife, including endemic and endangered species. The best known is the Silvery Dwarf Harebell Edraianthzs pumilio. For centuries the slopes of Biokovo provided a home to people seeking shelter from enemy attacks - hardly anyone lived by the sea. In the 20th century, the area became depopulated, meaning that modern life has hardly touched it. Therefore, this is a historical and cultural treasure trove. Lovers of architecture will be enchanted by the ancient stone villages and defences against Turkish attacks. Food buffs will find the smells wafting from traditional-style taverns hard to resist. So, while you’re on the Makarska Riviera we beseech you, don’t be lulled into laziness by the sedutive sea. Take a trip into the Biokovo mountains - you’ll be astonished by how much there is to see there. Apart from anything else, the views over the coast and islands are astonishing.

The Biokovo Nature Park covers most of the mountain range and has a number of information centres and educational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarsa - Vrgorac

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rodoljuba 36, Zaostrog (nr. Gradac), tel. (+385-21) 62 93 30, www.franjevci-split.hr. The pretty and unspoilt shoreline at Zaostrog is graced with the harmonious form of a large monastery with considerable historical and cultural significance. It was home to Andrija Kačić-Miošić, the friar, philosopher, teacher and poet from nearby Brist for most of his life - he is buried in the church here. The monastery in Zaostrog was originally founded in the 13th century by a community of Hermits of St Augustine who left in the face of Turkish invasions. A Franciscan community, itself displaced from Bosnia, settled in the abandoned building in 1468 and are still there today (not the same ones, of course). They worked hard to expand and rebuild their monastery when fate deemed it necessary, building a library that now has over 20,000 volumes, and running schools and a seminary for over five centuries. Today there is an excellent museum here, which, apart from the library, holds ethnographic and liturgical collections, an archive that includes valuable Turkish documentation, and a gallery of works by local artist Mladen Veža. Q Open by prior arrangement.

Makarska Tourist Board Archives road. You can drive up there, but the best way to explore it is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple of precautions: the terrain is rugged - wear strong shoes or hiking boots.

The summer heat and sun can be overwhelming: set off at sunrise, and take a hat, sun protection and plenty of water.

Outside of the summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is forecast: the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force.

Presentation centres: Podgora Selo - Stara Škola (the old school building) Exhibition of photographs of the park, at the moment open only for organised groups by prior arrangement by phone: phone (+385-21) 62 61 36.

Gornja Brela Presentation Centre Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park, open to visitors Mon-Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00.

Marin Kovačević Memorial House in the village of Kotišina Information on the Kotišina Botanical Gardens. Open MonSat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

The Kotišina Botanical Garden This Botanical Garden, like the Malacological Museum in Makarska, was founded by biologist Friar Jure Radić (19201990), and is part of an educational trail he also created.

Set in 16.5 hectares, the Garden is a reserve for local plant species as well as an archive of exotic plants. It has some interesting rock formations such as caves, cliffs and the Proslap waterfall which bursts through a narrow canyon after a heavy fall of rain. There’s a 17th century fortress, a protected monument, and a chapel, St Anthony’s (20th C).

Just 3km from Makarska and at an altitude of 350-500m above sea level, this is a suitable destination for a good but not overly demanding walk.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) Franjevački put

1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevcisplit.hr. The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and political opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely monastery you see today came into being. The old monastery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone wellhead, a church and a bell tower. Mass: 16th June - 8th September 07:00, Sun 07:00, 09:00, 21:00, 9th September - 15th June 07:00, Sun 07:00, 09:00, 19:00. The monastery served as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still active today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum, one of Makarska’s top attractions, is a respected institution with good links with similar museums around the world. The Institute also has a herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic regions.

Landmarks Kalalarga (Široka ulica) Makarska. Široka ulica is

fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga - a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by modern standards, but back in the day this was the very core of the town, the hub where everything was happening. Makarska’s Kalelarga winds through the town, the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalmatian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron railings and old-fashioned lanterns.

Kostanić’s Grave (Kostanića grob) Sela, nr. Drvenik.

The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered with ver y old gravestones called stećci (pronounced “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding these stones, which date from the period between the 11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own legend.

Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac and Dragimir Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the

The Biokovo Nature Park Archives

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MAKARSKA RIVIERA

MAKARSKA RIVIERA it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in 1999.

Statue of St Peter (Spomenik sv. Petra) St Peter’s Peninsula, Makarska. Watching protectively over Makarska’s waterfront from a forested vantage point is a statute of St Peter the Apostle. In case you’re wondering, that key he’s holding in his hand there is to Heaven’s gate, so you might like to be on your best behaviour. St Peter was one of the apostles, sent by Christ to spread his message of redemption. Venerated as one of the most humble of men, the name Christ gave him meant “the Rock” thanks to his steadfast nature. He went on to become the founder of the Church and the first pope, no less. This statue was erected in 2009 in a peaceful spot with a great view over the town, a nice place to take a walk.

Stone Flag Post (Markovac / Štandarac (Kameni stup za zastavu)) In front of the Tonoli Palace,

Makarska. Another souvenir left by the Venetians, this stone column bearing a relief of the Lion of St Mark served as the base for a flagpole. The open book that the lion is holding shows that the post was built during times of peace.

Stone Tower (Kamena kula) Gornja Podaca, nr.

Gradac. During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than 200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived in constant fear of raids. It’s not unusual, driving around the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings, creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Podaca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is surrounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake.

The Andrija Kačić-Miošić Monument (Spomenik fra Andriji Kačiću Miošiću) Trg fra Andrije Kačića-

Makarska Tourist Board Archives daughter of a duke named Jurić from Gradac. They fought a duel which resulted in the death of Kostanić. The girl, who loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news. This is where Kostanić lies.

Monument to the Tourist (Spomenik turistu) Riva waterfront, Makarska. Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tourism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes, it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists the world over.

Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip don Mihovila Pavlinovića) Podgora. For a small place, Podgora has

plenty of public sculpture. And it has not one but two notable memorials to Don Mihovil Pavlinović, a locally-born priest (1831-1887) who became a leading figure in the Croatian National Revival, a political movement campaigning for the right to self-determination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful style reminiscent of Art Deco.

Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole) Baška Voda. Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know that

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Miošića, Makarska. Since Andrija Kačić-Miošić is to the Croatian language pretty much what Chaucer is to English, and a local lad too, it’s no surprise that a monument to his memory takes pride of place on Makarska’s central square.

His statue’s plinth has a beautiful decorative panel at the front in mosaic tiles - a recurring motif on work by Ivan Rendić, the monument’s creator. Rendić, born in Imotski in 1849, was and still is one of Croatia’s greatest sculptors. The coats-ofarms you see featured on the mosaic are of all the countries mentioned by the poet in his famous songbook, “Pleasant Conversation of the Slavic Peoples”. This expression of national consciousness made Kačić-Miošić a hero in these lands, but it didn’t go down too well with the Hapsburg Monarchy of the time. The Empire banned the mosaic; it was finally added in 1922, 32 years after the monument was erected. Kačić-Miošić was born in Brist, near Gradac to the south of Makarska, in 1704. He was a monk, a philosopher and a teacher as well as a poet who contributed much to the development of the modern Croatian language. All in all, a smashing bloke, you could say!

The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin) Tučepi.

Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsaturatedstyle health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of millstones set on the waterfront.

The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela) Dugi rat Beach, Brela. A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity. The rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing please!

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The Seagull’s Wing Monument (Spomenik Galebova krila) Podgora. On a hillside high above

Podgora’s harbour is a striking piece of modern sculpture: the 20m-high Seagull’s Wing monument. his monument was unveiled by Tito in 1962 on the 20th anniversary of the founding of the flotilla. Created by sculptor Rajko Radović, the image of the bird in flight symbolises the liberation of the Adriatic region, while its bent right wing represents those who fell in battle. The monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives fighting against fascism.

The Venetian Water Fountain (Gradska česma)

Trg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska. A spectacular stone structure in front of St Mark’s Church featuring three lions’ heads spouting water from their mouths. As you might guess from the big cat motif, the fountain dates from the time when the Venetians occupied this coast - the period in history mainly responsible for the romantic Baroque appearance of the older parts of Makarska. The fountain was built in 1775 as a public water fountain - this is where people came to get their supplies for daily use in their homes, and indulge in a little juicy gossip along the way.

TUČEPI +385 21 695 240, www.villa-andrea.info

Palaces The Ivanišević Family Palace (Barokna palača obitelji Ivanišević) Lištun, Makarska. Of all the Baroque

buildings in Makarska, the Ivanišević Palace shows to the best effect how the wealthiest citizens used to live. All in stone with terracotta roofs, the palace has a galleried courtyard at its centre. It’s privately-owned and not open to the public.

The Tonoli Palace (Palača Tonoli) Obala kralja Tomislava 16, Makarska. The Tonoli Palace was built in the 18th century by a Venetian doctor named Tonoli as the family home. Today it houses Makarska’s Town Museum, and you’ll also find the Tourist Association office here. Again, it’s in the local Baroque style, in stone with small shuttered windows and a romantic balcony at the front.

Slow food restaurant and wine tasting

Sport With mountains, sea and rivers, the Makarska area is an unbeatable playground for adventure sports. Cycling is probably the no. 1 sport on land here thanks to the great scenery and challenging terrain. Despite its allure, you might rather avoid the narrow, bendy, often overcrowded Adriatic coastal highway: accidents are all to frequent. Better pick a route through the old hillside villages - details in the nearest tourist board office. In the Biokovo mountains a tarmac road runs 23 km from the park entrance to the Sveti Jure peak (again, watch out for traffic; helmets are mandatory). There’s also an 8 km gravel track from Staza to Saranač, as well as belts cleared of trees to prevent the spread of fires around the edge of the Nature Park. A 5km coastal path from Makarska to Tučepi is perfect for a gentler ride. Still on dry land, there are scenic and interesting hiking trails in the Biokovo Nature Park, while thrills aplenty await rock climbers in the steep Cetina gorge at Omiš. There are also climing walls on the Osejava peninsula in Makarska and on a crag overlooking Brela. Even higher above the earth, there are two paragliding take-off points at Miletin bor and Pržinovac in the Biokovo Nature Park. Water babies will love a refreshing ride on a raft along the fastflowing Cetina river. And then, of course, there’s the sea.

You can sail (or learn to), or surf, or windsurf. You can ride a jet ski, or launch yourself in the air behind one on a paraglider. You can rent a boat, learn to dive, or enjoy a spot of sea fishing. Whichever you choose, we assure you the experience will be unforgettable.

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SPORT

GETTING AROUND SPK Marulianus D-2, Tončićeva 1/2, tel. (+385-) 091 529 59 90, info@marulianus.hr, www.marulianus. hr. Sport climbing club. Q Working hours by arrangement.

Paragliding Alternatura Hrvatskih mučenika 2, Komiža, Vis, tel.

(+385-21) 71 72 39/(+385-) 091 250 38 09, 091 520 50 80, alternatura@alternatura.hr, www.alternatura. hr. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 13:00, 17:00 - 22:00. A

Sailing Ultra C-3, Uvala baluni 6a, tel. (+385-21) 39 85 78/

(+385-21) 39 89 80, booking@ultra-sailing.hr, www. ultra-sailing.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

Adventure sports

9th Picigin World Cup

Fancy a little rafting, canyoning, trekking or perhaps a canoe safari in between swimming and sunning yourself? All you need to do is contact the Omiš area agencies below.

Let the adventure begin!

Adventure Dalmatia D-3, Matije Gupca 26, tel. (+385-) 091 182 89 95, info@adventuredalmatia.com, www.splitadventure.com. Rafting on the River Cetina, sea kayaking, canyoning...

Dalmatia Rafting D-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 8a, tel. (+385-21) 32 16 98/(+385-) 098 169 77 49, cetina@ dalmatiarafting.com, www.dalmatiarafting.com. Rafting, canoeing, kayaking, free climbing and paintball. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Falco Tours D/E-3, Žrnovnička 11, tel. (+385-21) 54 86 46/(+385-) 091 786 72 20, info@falco-tours.com, www.falco-tours.com. Call for arrangements.

Radmanove Mlinice Poljički trg 2, Omiš, tel. (+38521) 86 22 38/(+385-) 099 314 62 20, info@radmanovemlinice.hr, www.radmanove-mlinice.hr. Rafting and canoeing. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.

The Vranjača cave The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The first, the existence of which was already known in the 19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discovered in 1903 by Stipe Punda, who was the owner of this plot of land. This part consists of a system of nine smaller chambers in colours ranging from green through blue, some of which shimmer due to the presence of crystals.

The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant temperature of 15ºC all year round. Vranjača is suitable for visits by tourists, with steps, rope handrails, walkways and lighting. It is supervised and has a car park. The cave is well visited by day trippers from Split and nature lovers from all over.

The cave, Vranjača, is located in the foothills of the central part of Mosor, on the northern side. If you are coming from Split then take the paved road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m path to the entrance of the cave.

The cave is open from 15th March to 1st November, from 09:00 to 20:00 (May - September) and from 10:00 - 17:00 (March, April, September and October). Guided tours, which last about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385-) 098 74 90 00 for more information.

Scuba diving Akvatorij C-2, VIII Mediteranskih igara 1, tel. (+385-

21) 45 95 45/(+385-) 091 313 21 20, 091 313 21 21, info@akvatorij.hr, www.akvatorij.hr. Diving school only, no tourist excursions. QOpen 09:00 - 14:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Podvodno istraživački klub Mornar C-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-) 098 997 06 52, info@pik-mornar. hr, www.pik-mornar.hr. Diving school and scuba diving excursions. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Tennis Tennis Academy Stobreč Svetog Lovre 45b, Stobreč,

tel. (+385-21) 32 50 64, info@tenis.hr, www.tenis.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

Day time 50kn/h, night 60kn/h and indoor courts 70kn/h.

TK Dalmacijacement Marka Marulića 24, Solin, tel. (+385-21) 21 24 42. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. day time

50kn/h, night time 60kn/h.

TK Split E-3, Put Firula 18, tel. (+385-21) 38 95 76, www.tk-split.hr. Q Open 11:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 22:30, Sat 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. daytime 50kn/h, night 75kn/h.

Windsurfing 7 Bofora D-2, Kavanjinova 14, tel. (+385-21) 48

04 28/(+385-) 091 516 62 01, info@7bofora.com, www.7bofora.com. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A Big Blue Podan glavice 2, Bol, Brač, tel. (+385-21) 63 56 14, tomaz@big-blue-sport.hr, www.big-blue-sport. hr. Windsurfing, diving, sea-kayaking, mountain biking and beachvolley. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.

Public transport Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split buses. There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run from 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40) running Fridays and Saturdays only.

Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11 kn or from Promet Split kiosks near each bus stop for 9 kn. If you’re trying to beat the system and chance it without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70 kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport, and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates from 06:30 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:30 to 12:00 on Saturdays, and is closed on Sunday.

To contact the Sukoišanska station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services call (+385-21) 40 79 99.

Promet Split E-1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+38521) 40 78 88, promet@promet-split.hr, www. promet-split.hr.

Buses Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) J-3,

Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/ (+385-21) 32 91 80, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr.

The main bus station isn’t the most impressive building in town, but it is well organized and conveniently located next to the ferry port and train station, which are all about ten minutes’ walk to the old town. If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sickness-inducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip. Information about prices and departure/arrival times is available 24 hours at the information desk. The international ticket office is open 06:00 - 22:00.

Trains Main train station J-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hznet. hr. The main train station is situated next to the bus station and doesn’t offer many possibilities to travel around, save for frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours, which in the summer can be made a lot less tiresome by the weekend disco train, on which passengers can enjoy the trip with dancing and music. If you happen to be

Taxi

Makarska Tourist Board Archives

The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777. If you’re with Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is 18kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 2.5kn added per each piece of luggage and 50kn per hour for waiting. There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.

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GETTING AROUND Parking There are four parking zones and prices range from 3 - 5 Kuna/hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking is payable 06:30 - 21:30, and in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from 07:00 - 19:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price. However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when you’re supposed to have one you might catch a fine of 75 kn (Zone 1), or 48 kn for all other zones.

Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 5 to 10 kn depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on a maximum 10 kn charge for the first hour and 15 kn per hour thereafter. Most of the lots operate around the clock.

Promet Split D-2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+38521) 48 10 97, parking@promet-split.hr, www. promet-split.hr.

SMS parking There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 8211), zone 2 (blue - 8212), zone 3 (green - 8213) and zone 4 (yellow - 8214). You get a ticket at the box under the parking sign or use your mobile phone to pay by sending an SMS with your registration number (no gaps) to the number shown on the box (remember to include the international dialing code if you’re using a foreign mobile). A few minutes before your hour of paid parking runs out, you’ll get a message to remind you to refresh your lease of the space or move your car. leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 22:00 or a night train from Split at 21:17, there’s one more really handy service offered at the train station. If you have a car or motorbike and don’t feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 186,30 - 266,30kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket.

GETTING AROUND You can buy them at any time and they are valid for any line operating that day; but to be sure your car will be placed on your desired ferry, you should be waiting with your car about 90 minutes before the ferry departs. After you buy your ticket, the kindly, multi-lingual personnel will explain to you from which dock the ferry leaves.

Jadrolinija D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33, ag.split@jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. This is the main company in Croatia that caters for public transportation towards the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Q Open 04:30 - 24:00. July, August Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Kapetan Luka, Krilo, tel. (+385-21) 87 28 77/(+385-) 091 205 98 86, luka.tomic@st.t-com.hr, www.krilo.hr.

Krilo catamaran running to Hvar and Korčula islands. Tickets available in Jadrolinija agency.

MSC Krstarenja D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, split@msckrstarenja.com, www.msckrstarenja. com. SNAV agent runs the Split-Ancona ferry line. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel. (+385-21) 35 25 33, booking@splitours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Blue Line International agent with Split-Ancona and Hvar-Ancona ferry lines. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva).

Q Two offices, one is open 08:00 - 15:00, another one from 15:00 - 20:30.

Airport Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela)

Cesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+38521) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@splitairport.hr, www.split-airport.hr. The airport is relatively

Luxury Travel Bremen

Ferries Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. We’ve expounded much on the convenient location of the ferry port and its proximity to the bus and train stations, but if you still don’t know where it is, making your way there has been simplified by those handy signs all around town pointing the way. On the street leading up to the main port building, there are Jadrolinija kiosks that sell tickets for the ferries that operate to domestic destinations and Splittours kiosk that sells ticket for Split Ancona line. Inside the main port building, the Jadrolinija and Snav offices sell tickets for international travel. The opening hours of each office change according to season, but during peak season, the kiosks for local travel close at around 20:00 and the main office closes at midnight.

For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to. The basic price rundown is something like this: 33 - 68kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars.

Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest.

The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about three and a half hours. On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two. One final, important note is that it’s not possible to reserve tickets for local lines ahead of time.

Split In Your Pocket

Luxury Travel Bremen I-2, Tončićeva 4, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 00/(+385-) 098 161 74 78, fax (+385-21) 33 25 02, info@summer-blues.com, www.summer-blues.com. Every wish you could rent a boat for just one day and lounge on the deck looking up at the clear blue skies surrounding by shimmering water?

Now you can with this unique and wonderful opportunity to sail on the Croatian coast with your family and friends.

Daily excursions take place for the full day, for 10hrs, half days, in the morning or afternoon, for 5 hrs, or evening cruises, which include a sunset party with DJ saxophonist, for 2hrs. The boat can hold up to 80 passengers and costs 55€ per person. The trip includes a journey to two local islands, Brač and Šolta, and on Thursdays, Hvar, as well. Enjoy a wide range of activities, such as swimming and snorkeling and even a dance school on-board. The price of the trip also includes a large bar with unlimited drinks, as well as lunch, a salad with grilled chicken, fruit, and a dessert. Catamaran can be rented exclusively for various parties, business events or weddings. Hurry up and gather a group together for an unforgettable experience! Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun by prior arrangement. split.inyourpocket.com

small but serves a fair number of domestic and European cities. If you’re not able to fly to your destination from Split, there are daily flights to Zagreb, which is a bit more connected to the outside world. The airport can be reached by public transport: hop on bus number 37 (bound for Trogir) from Sukoišanska. The bus runs every 20 minutes on weekdays and every 30 minutes on weekends. Another option is to take the Plesoprijevoz airport bus that waits at the coach station, gate 5, which leaves according to the schedule published at www.plesoprijevoz.hr or contact (00385+) 098 283 857.

This costs 30 kn. If you didn’t manage to blow all your kn on coffees on the Riva, you can exchange them in the offices run by Splitska banka or at the post office, both of which are located in the main hall of the airport.

Brač Airport Brač Airport Veško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21)

55 97 01/(+385-21) 55 97 11, info@airport-brac.hr, www.airport-brac.hr. Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the island of Brač, this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year round, with charter flights organized only during the summer.

The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100 passengers or fewer. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00.

Bike & Scooter Rental San Diego tours I/J-3, Obala Lazareta 3, tel. (+385-

21) 41 00 34/(+385-) 091 333 35 48, booking@ car-hire-rental.info, www.rentacar.com.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:00. A Travel49 J-2, Dioklecijanova 5, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81 41, info@travel49.com, www.travel49.com. Q Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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Travel agencies Adriatic Travel D-3, Jadranska 6, tel. (+385-21) 49 01 30/(+385-21) 49 01 29, info@adriatic-travel.hr, www. adriatic-travel.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A F-tours putovanja D-2, Trg Hrvatske bratske zajednice 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 48 42, desk@f-tours.hr, www.ftours.hr. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Galileo J-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14, tel. (+385-21) 54 22 33, info@galileo.hr, www.galileo.hr. Q Open 08:00 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Split Tours D-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 35 25 33, booking@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 15:30 - 20:30. A

Car rental Avis&Budget Cesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel

Štafilić (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela), tel. (+385-21) 68 49 85/(+385-) 091 314 30 11, split.apt@avis.com.hr, www.avis.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00. A Dollar&Thrifty H-3, Trumbićeva obala 17, tel. (+38521) 39 90 00/(+385-21) 39 88 00, subrosa@subrosa. hr, www.subrosa.hr. QOpen 07:30 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A Europcar Cesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić (Zračna luka Split - Kaštela), tel. (+385-) 098 23 10 81, rentacar-st@uniline.hr, www.europcar.com.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. A Hertz C-3, Trumbićeva obala 2, tel. (+385-21) 36 04 55/ (+385-) 091 36 04 551, split.dt@hertz.hr, www.hertz.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

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SHOPPING Jaman I-2, Šubićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/(+385-) 098 32 27 19, danijel.jaman@st.t-com.hr, www.jamanart.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Morić J-1, Sinjska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 51 31/(+385-) 091 515 73 57, galerija-moric@st.t-com.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Oya Noya I-2, Mihovilova širina 2, tel. (+385-) 095 593 20 92. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A Paparella J-2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 40 78.

Q Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Studio Naranča J-2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 18, pavo.studionaranca@gmail.com. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July - August 31 Open 09:00 22:00. Closed Sun. A

Croatian design Ledenko D-2/I-1, Kačićeva 7, tel. (+358-21) 48 67 53/ (+385-) 091 444 43 05, info@ledenko.hr, www.ledenko. hr. Q Open 09:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A Think Pink I-2, Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26, senka.jurisic@gmail.com, www.thinkpink.com.hr. Also at (J-2) Marulićeva 1, Open 08:30 - 22:00. QOpen 08:30 22:00. JA

Delicatessen Dalmacijavino I-2, Ulica Bana Josipa Jelačića 13.

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.

Shopping centres & Malls City Center One F-2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 51 01 30, info-st@citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. Q June - August 26 Open 09:00 - 22:00. August 27 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Joker Centre D-2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 11. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.

Antiques Antique’s & Art’s D-3, Plinarska 21, tel. (+385-) 098 917 63 68. Q Open 10:00 - 13:00, 19:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. N

Zlatna vrata J-2, Papalićeva ulica 4, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 22/(+385-) 098 51 62 78. Q Open 09:00 - 12:30,

17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. N

Art Galleries Atelier Mikulić E-3, Šimićeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 37 17 22/(+385-) 091 515 25 75, nenomikulic@gmail. com, www.gallerymikulic.net. Q Open by prior arrangement. N

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Deliiicije I-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 7, tel. (+385-21) 32 31 49, www.deliiicije.com. Q Open

09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July - September Open 09:00 23:00, Sun 19:00 - 23:00. A Dolcezza I-2, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 38 38 52. Also at I-2, Bosanska 16, tel. 021 36 00 21, Open 08:00 - 23:00.

QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. A Enoteka Terra D-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 6, tel. (+38521) 31 48 00, edicoposao@yahoo.com, www.vinoteka. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A Franja coffee I-2, Trg Braće Radić 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 50 64/(+385-) 091 247 90 23, www.franja.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 24:00. A Gligora D-3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+385-21) 27 42 59, www.sirena.hr.QOpen 07:00 - 14:00, Mon 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Judita - gourmet & wine shop J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 47, judita.split@yahoo.com. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. A

Chic & Cheerful

SHOPPING

Carpe Diem pic - Jaman Gallery

Kraš I-2, Narodni trg 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 61 38, www. kras.hr. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A

Nadalina J-2, Dioklecijanova 6. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Natura I-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 24.

QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Oleoteka Uje J-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, info@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 09:00 - 21:00. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. July 15 - August 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Split Tea House I-2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 58, info@kucacaja-split.hr, www.kucacaja-split. hr. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Vinoteka Bouquet C-3, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 80 31, www.vinoteka.hr. Q Open 08:30 - 12:30, 17:00 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Vinoteka Viola D-3/K-3, Bijankinijeva 8, tel. (+38521) 32 30 35. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

Get get get J-2, Dominisova 16, tel. (+385-21) 34

10 15, info@getgetget.com.hr. One store that has ‘made in Croatia’ written all over it! It is a small designer shop in the heart of town run by a group of artists aiming to create, exhibit and sell their products. QOpen 10:00 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A Upi - 2M Books Kružićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 40 24. This is not just your ordinary bookshop; it is also part of the Institute for Art History with a primary focus on architecture, design and art; with an interesting anthology of designer items, souvenirs, city guides and maps. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A

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DIRECTORY

SHOPPING Souvenirs Cro fan shop - Hajduk I-2, Trogirska 10, tel. (+385-21) 34 30 96, www.cro-fan-shop.com. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A Morpurgo I-2, Narodni trg 16, tel. (+385-21) 34 68 43.

Enter the oldest book store in the world and take in its history.

At the age of 20, Vid Morpurgo, a Jewish immigrant opened this store 150 years ago on Split’s National Square; in its jubilee, the city commemorates this milestone and this man’s willingness to promote Croatian literature, and find a meeting place for the cultured. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Spalato J-2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 30/ (+385-) 091 456 95 45, lidija.hodzic2@gmail.com. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00. June - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. A

Business connections

Specialty Havana Cigar Shop I-2, Zadarska 3, tel.(+385-21) 34

10 97, split@havana-cigar-shop.com, www.camelot.hr.

Cigars, from Cuba and Dominican Republic. Smoke it up, dudes.QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.A

Atelier Perajica

Croatian Chamber of Economy - Split Chamber (Županijska komora Split) H-3, Trumbićeva obala 4, tel. (+385-21) 32 11 00, hgkst@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr.

QOpen 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Croatian Chamber of trades and crafts - Split Dalmatia County (Obrtnička komora Splitskodalmatinske županije) F-3, Ruđera Boškovića 28-30,

tel. (+385-21) 47 01 14, ok.split@hok.hr, www.oksdz. hr. QOpen 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Consulates Denmark E-3, Matice Hrvatske 15, tel. (+385-21) 55 86

Atelier Perajica J-2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, contact@atelierperajica.com, www. atelierperajica.com. This fantastic little atelier is a wonderful place to get lost in your thoughts or to pick up something unique as a gift. Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three generations of photographers have kept their family studio here, amassing an unparalleled photo-documentary of Split nostalgic and modern. The current owner, art theorist and critic Dr Ana Perajica, has some unusual creations including photos printed on canvas and fringed with handmade lace: voilà! Drinks mats! There’s also a wonderful collection of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace, including the UNESCO-listed agave lace made by nuns on Hvar island, and another featuring treasures from the deep such as sponges, seahorses and coral. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

00/(+385-) 098 984 44 28, danmark-hc@igh.hr, www. ambzagreb.um.dk. Please make an appointment before visiting. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hungary C-2/H-1, A.G.Matoša 48/II, tel. (+385-) 099 558 55 55, ConsulSPL@mfa.gov.hu, www.mfa.gov. hu/emb/zagreb. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00. Open by prior arrangement.

Italy I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/ III, tel. (+385-21) 34 81 55/(+385-21) 34 45 77, fax (+385-21) 36 12 68, consolato.spalato@esteri.it, www. consspalato.esteri.it. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00, Thu 09:00 - 12:00, 15:30 - 17:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Russia D-2, Starčevićeva 24a, tel. (+385-21) 48 44 45/(+385-) 098 954 86 70. Q Open 09:00 - 12:00 and by prior arrangement. Closed Sat, Sun. Slovenia D-2, Istarska 9, tel./fax (+385-21) 38 92 24, generalni.konzulat.rep.slovenije@st.t-com.hr. QOpen 09:30 - 12:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Sweden K-1/2, Držićeva 8, tel. (+385-21) 33 82 34/ (+385-) 091 221 55 01, fax (+385-21) 31 45 30. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Switzerland Strožanačka 20, Podstrana, tel. (+385-21) 42 04 22/(+385-) 095 912 12 42, fax (+385-21) 42 04 21. QOpen 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Netherlands D-3, Kralja Zvonimira 14/XII, tel./ fax (+385-21) 31 23 99, tel. (+385-) 098 37 06 71, silvanakondic@gmail.com, www.netherlandsembassy. hr. For the rest of the week by prior arrangement over the phone. QOpen 11:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.

24-hour pharmacies Lučac E-3, Josipa Pupačića 4, tel. (+385-21) 53 31

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88, ljekarnasplit@ljekarnasplit.hr, www.ljekarnasdz. hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A Prima Pharme G-2, Kralja Držislava 22 (Super Konzum), tel. (+385-21) 32 55 04, sine@primapharme. hr, www.primapharme.hr. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. A

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UK I-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/III,

tel. (+385-1) 600 91 00, british-consulat-st@st.t-com. hr, www.gov.uk/government/world/croatia. Q Open 08:00 - 16:00, Fri 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Dry cleaners & Laundries Relucesco Laundrette Split C-2, Plinarska 28, tel. (+385-21) 78 28 08. Service: 30kn - washing, 30kn - drying, detergent and softener free. QOpen 07:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00.

Self Service Laundrette H-2, Šperun 1, tel. (+385-21) 31 58 88. Self service: 25kn - laundering, 20kn - drying and 5kn - washing powder. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.

Making the call You’ve memorised the misleadingly simple code break-down, and are ready to take the plunge (let’s hope you decided not to drop that tricky calculus course). Local Calls: Here’s the trick: dial the subscriber’s six- or seven-digit number, and place the receiver to your ear. National Calls: Dial the Croatian city code ((0)21 if you’re calling Split for instance) followed by the subscriber’s number. Calling Abroad: Dial 00 (the international access code), the appropriate country code, a city or area code if applicable and the subscriber’s number. Calling Croatia from Abroad: Dial your international access code, 385 (Croatia’s country code), the city code (dropping the initial 0) and the subscriber’s number. Calling a Mobile: Mobile numbers are 10-digits and begin with either 091,098,099, 092 and 095. Dial the subscriber’s number and wait for a human voice. For an international call to a Croatian mobile, dial your international acess code, 385 (country code), drop the 0, and then dial the remaining digits.

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.

Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Main post office E-1, Hercegovačka 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 24 17/(+385-21) 34 24 19. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun.

Postal rates Letters up to 50 gr Postcrads

Croatia Abroad Croatia Abroad

3.10 kn 7.10 kn 1.60 kn 3.10 kn

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SPLIT DALMATIA COUNTY

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Castles of Split Dalmatia County Visitors to the Split region shouldn’t just restrict themselves to the beach. Not only is the Dalmatian hinterland one of the most dramatically beautiful parts of Croatia, it also plays host to a multitude of crumbling fortresses and hilltop castles.

Given the region’s turbulent history - including centuries of warfare between Croats, Ottoman Turks and Venetians - it’s no surprise that brooding battle-scarred ruins form such a prominent part of the local landscape.

One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in the great views in every direction.There is a café right below the fortress.

Klis has had a long and color ful history. It was first mentioned in written records in the first half of the 10th century. In the 13th century the Mongols invaded the area but never succeeding in taking the fortress.The Ottoman Turks captured it in 1537. Local nobles succeeded in retaking Klis, but only for a few weeks, in 1596. The Venetians finally evicted the Turks for good in 1648. When you visit Klis you will see why it was fought over so fiercely. Anyone occupying the fortress could control passage through the rather narrow mountain pass from the coast to the hinterland.

Between Split and Trogir, 20km to the west, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as “Kaštela” (Castles), each centred on its own fortress. If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing you to them (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Kambelovac, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Novi, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Štafilić). Most were constructed in the

Split In Your Pocket

SPLIT DALMATIA COUNTY

16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or the Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features. All are accessible by car. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Trogir, an island town, has its own castle fortress, too, right on the waterfront.

Kamerlengo Citadel was built in the 15th century and has been well restored. Trogir’s Venetian heritage (the Venetians held sway there for three and a half centuries starting in 1420) is clearly evident from the town’s lovely architecture.

If you go 21km in the opposite direction (southwest) on route 8 from Split you will reach Omiš, which is located at the mouth of the Cetina River. There are the ruins of two castle/ fortresses above the town that have spectacular views.The lower of the two, Mirabela, is accessible by about 300 steps from Šubić Street in the centre of town. There is a gate about a quarter of the way up that is sometimes inexplicably locked.

Ask at the town’s tourist office first and they’ll probably send someone to unlock it. From the top of Mirabela’s tower keep there’s a sweeping view of Omiš, the river, the sea, and the steep sided mountains that form the sides of the canyon. It’s believed that the Kačić family, feudal lords of Omiš during the 12th and 13th centuries, built Mirabela in the early 1200s.

Pirates used Mirabela as their lair during medieval times. The Venetians acquired Omiš in 1444 and over time expanded and refortified the redoubt.

Fitness buffs can be rewarded with an even more panoramic view by hiking from the center of Omiš to Starigrad (also called “Fortica”), a fortress/castle about 500m above the town. The hike takes about two hours on a marked trail, which begins on the road to the village of Borak. The turn off to Borak is on the south edge of the Omiš town center. You can also drive part of the way up to Starigrad, making sure to go straight (don’t turn right) when you reach the fork in the road. From that point it is a 45 minutes climb. Fortica was built by another Croatian noble family, the Nelipićs, probably in the 14th century. It was one of a series of coastal forts expanded by the Venetians during their centuries-long struggle against the Turks. Gun bastions and embrasures are still clearly visible in the walls, the perfect spot for imagining that you are a defender on the battlements! There are plenty of good hotels and eateries in Omiš, which is a major tourist center. It’s a shame that most visitors never venture beyond the beach.

From Omiš take the road on the south side of the Cetina River 18km to reach Zadvarje. There is one good view after another as this road winds through the canyon. There is a fortress with the same name just beyond the water treatment plant above Zadvarje. Unfortuately power lines above the ruin somewhat mar the atmosphere, but it’s still worth checking out Zadvarje’s massive walls. Built by the Venetians between 1478 and 1482, Zadvarje was captured and refortified by the Turks in 1502. There is a myth that the ghost of Murat,

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the Zadvarje Turkish bey who was bloodied by a local girl he assaulted, roams the castle walls during full moon.

Our next stop on the county castle tour is Imotski, 38km from Zadvarje by routes 39 and 60. Imotski is remote into the Dalmatian hinterland, a place where locals think nothing of stopping their car in the middle of street in town to chat with their friends, not worrying about a trifling traffic jam that might develop. Another distinctive feature of this hilltop town is its two sinkhole lakes, the Blue Lake and the Red Lake.

Sheer cliffs tower 150m above the Blue Lake, which is just above the Imotski town center. It takes about 10 minutes to climb up the stone steps to Topana Castle, perched at the top of the cliffs.There is a great view of the coastal mountains from the ramparts of the castle, the location of which was probably first used for defensive purposes by the Romans.

Topana is first mentioned in written records around 950.

From 1322 the castle fortress was under the ownership of several Croatian-Bosnian noble families.The Turks conquered Imotski in 1493, transforming it into an important seat of local government and refortifying the castle. It wasn’t until 1717 that the Venetians pushed the Turks out, but Imotski continued to mark the border with the Ottoman Turkish Empire. Battles continued for another decade, resulting in substantial damage to the castle. It was reconstructed in the early 19th century, by which time it no longer served a military purpose. There are several hotels and restaurants in Imotski.

On the way from Zadvarje bonafide castle fanatics might want to follow highway 62 to the hilltop town of Vrgorac, which is very near to the border with Bosnia-Herzegovina. There is a nicely restored castle above the town centre, accessible via an unusually well marked trail in about 15 - 20 minutes.

There’s a wonderful view in every direction from the castle.

Only 10km north and west of Imotski on a secondary (but paved) road is the village of Donji Proložac. Badnjevice

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Castle/fortress is spectacularly situated on a rocky peak above the village. First mentioned in written records from the 12th century, it’s hard to imagine how it could have been built there, but it certainly commands a good view of the surrounding region. Only the hardiest of climbers should attempt to reach this ruin. There are no marked trails, and probably the best alternative would be to enlist the help of a local to guide you up the steep, rocky slope.

About 80km north and west from Imotski via route 60 and then a turn off from route 220 is the small village of Čačvina.

It’s easy to spot the castle ruin and a church at the top of a hill above the village. It’s an easy, 10 minutes ascent to the castle. There are spectacular views in every direction from Čačvina, which sits at an elevation of 707m. The Nelipčić family built Čačvina in 1371.

The Turks overan this fortress in the mid 16th century, and it was not until about 150 years later that the Venetians and Croats evicted them. In ancient and medieval times Čačvina sat at the crossroads of major trading routes, but today it is very much off the beaten track. Visitors may not be able to get an espresso there, but Čačvina’s remoteness is one of its charms.

The largest town of the Split Dalmatia County hinterland is Sinj, which is only 20km northwest of Čačvina or 34km north of Split via a well marked road. The castle fortress above Sinj is worth a look. You can drive there. Like the rest of Dalmatia, Sinj has had a very turbulent history. During the century before and for several centuries after the birth of Christ the Romans fought with several tribes in the area.

Sinj’s fortifications are first found in written records in about the year 950. It’s believed the exsiting fortress was built in the 14th century. The Turks captured Sinj in 1536 and refortified the castle. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in 1686, and the following year a famous image of the Madonna

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how those huge blocks could have been raised to such a height and pointed so neatly so many centuries ago. The tower is accessible in about 20 - 30 minutes via a marked trail ascending from a dirt road that runs from the village of Humac (on route 116) to the tunnel entrance. From the tower there is a breathtaking view of Brač Island to the north. A fortress on the same ridge about a kilometre to the east also is clearly visible. If you have binoculars you may be able to spot the naturist beaches on Jerolim and Stipanska islands off the coast. Brač, too, has a number of castles and fortresses in its coastal villages and interior.

For details please see the article about Brač activities in this issue of In Your Pocket.

Kaštela Tourist Board Dvorac Vitturi, Brce 1, Kaštel

Vanka regule known as the Lady of Sinj (“Sinjska Gospa”) was returned to Sinj. In August 1715 the Turks attempted to retake the Sinj fortress. Although outnumbered, the inhabitants of Sinj defeated the Turks after a week-long battle. The defendents were convinced that the presence of the Madonna painting help them to thwart their more powerful adversaries. The Feast of the Assumption (Velika Gospa; August 15) is, therefore, especially significant for the residents of Sinj, which has several hotels and many restaurants.

About 15km northwest of Sinj lies the village and fortress of Potravlje (also known as “Potravnik” or “Travnik”). It commands a stupendous view of coastal mountains to the west, high peaks in Bosnia and the valley occupied by 30km long Lake Peručko to the north. To reach Potravlje you take Route 1 north from Sinj. After about 10km you turn west (left) on a paved road; there is a sign pointing the way to Satrić. After 5.3km you will see a pink house on the right and on the left a line of cypress trees. Turn left at that point and go about 500m, where you can park in the middle of the village and walk up the hill to the castle ruins. There is no discernable trail but it is not too difficult to bushwack through the low scrub brush and grass. Like Čačvina, Potravlje is a rustic but lovely spot.

Potravnik was probably constructed by the Nelipčić dukes in the 14th century. It is first mentioned in written records in 1372. The Turks attacked the fortress in 1522 and at first were not successful in taking it. Only after plugging the sources for the castle’s water wells, thereby cutting off the defendents’ water supply, were they able to capture it. The Venetians pushed the Turks out in the late 17th century. Another 22km along route 1 is the town of Vrlika.

Prozor castle sits prominently above the town, which is at the opposite end of Lake Peručko from Potravlje. Partially restored, Prozor has an equally spectacular view of the lake and mountains to the east and west. To reach the castle go from the town church 1.5km up the road towards Maovica and Drniš. There is a dirt road passable with four wheel drive or a 20 - 25 minute walk up a not very steep hill to the castle.

The Hrvatinić family built Prozor Castle in the early 1400s. As with other towns in the this area, the Ottoman Turks captured the fortress in 1523 and held it until the Venetians expelled them nearly 200 years later. The town witnessed an invasion much more recently as well. During the Balkan Wars of the early 1990s Vrlika was held by the so-called Republic of Serb Krajina for four years. During Operation Storm the Croatian Army pushed the Serbs out in August 1995.

The large Adriatic islands of Brač, Hvar and Vis also lie within Split Dalmatia County, and there is no shortage of alluring castles in those places, either. A restored fortress overlooks Hvar Town and provides a nice view of the offshore string of Pakleni Islands. You can drive up to the fortress or climb up in a few minutes from the town center. There is an interesting tower made of gigantic stone blocks (shown as “Tor” on some maps) above the town of Jelsa. One marvels about

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Lukšić, tel. (+385-21) 22 79 33, info@kastela-info.hr, www.kastela-info.hr Kaštela Tourist Information Centre Obala kralja Tomislava 18, Kaštel Novi, tel. (+385-21) 23 20 44, karmen@kastela-info.hr, w w w.kastela-info.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

Islands Šolta Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish. The island’s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day’s catch, which is then prepared for the evening’s meal and accompanied by some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well. The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island’s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay. Either way, there’s something for everyone.

Tourist Information Centre Obala sv. Tereze 3, Rogač, Šolta, solta@solta.hr, www.visitsolta.com. Q Open 07:30 - 21:00.

Svetac, Brusnik - Photo by Matko Petrić

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Brač Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest.

If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It’s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people. It’s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you’d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač’s north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač. Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the Middle Ages. Škrip’s Museum of Brač contains many ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including a relief of Hercules.

Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, you could extend your activities from what’s listed above to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol. Its museum has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and Child dating

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from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about half way between the sea and the summit of Brač’s highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place to hide.

You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol road. If you don’t have an SUV you run the risk of ruining your vehicle’s suspension. Both trails are well marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be rewarded with great views plus Blaca’s ascetic architecture and splendid isolation.

Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća.

The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It’s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic.

If you are going to be on Brač for a week there’s much more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce their names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side of the island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on the north

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There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina. They’re located between Supetar and Donji Humac.

Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.

Supetar Tourist Information Centre Porat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, info@supetar.hr, www.supetar. hr. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

Hvar

Komiža, Vis - Photo by Luka Nižetić Photography side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old quarters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from the seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters; medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates and the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants from which to soak them up. Olive tree orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of Brač, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers. You will see lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin olive oil (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There are even agro-tourism offers for olive picking; check with a travel bureau about where that is possible.

Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It’s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible - a tort lawyer’s dream.

You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you’re a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska). This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar. If you’re coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city. See getting around section.

Things to see and do: Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.

Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands (Paklinski islands) which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected.

The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns.

Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view of below. The prison dungeon inside the Španjol Fortress is quite impressive and if you take a peek below, it’s easy to imagine the sounds of the prison guards bringing food to the prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar,

Vis - Photo by Matko Petrić

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you’ll encounter historical charm with the Renaissance St Stephen’s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by local masters Karlić and Pomenić and the centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form. On the northern slope above the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th century. On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper.

Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331.

Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar galley. On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from 1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery in Hvar is well known for it’s craftsmanship of unique lace made from agave fibres.

Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you the opportunity for a thorough exploration.

Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route which passes alongside the island and today’s ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here

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is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).

Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the Fields which was formed around a square and its current look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries.

The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa.

If you set out on a journey into the interior of the island

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It’s available on Amazon and from selected shops in Croatia. You get the code to an online MP3 version so you can listen and repeat in fine language-school style. A guide for girls is coming soon, and if you’ve got a special line for hooking the chappies you’d like to contribute, send the girls a mail on info@flirtingincroatian.com.

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Hvar not far from Jelsa, you’ll come across the small villages of Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their appearance and peacefulness.

Only 7km east of Jelsa, you’ll find the abandoned village of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and stone and they’re completely unique in their entirety of rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave, the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era, 5000-4000 B.C. Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre. They call Vrboska ‘’Little Venice’’ due to it’s small bridges with which it is connected. There is also a Fishing Museum which is worth a look in as is the fort church of St Mary of Charity from the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the Baroque church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius, Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano, Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and the filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini.On the northern part of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja. To head to the southern side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel (hollowed out of the rock) beside a place called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You’ll come across a gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro, Korčula and the Pelješac peninsula before exiting the tunnel. Until recently the tunnel functioned via a telephone at both ends. With a call you’d know if there was a car waiting to enter from the other end but now there is a traffic light in place. The locals dug out the tunnel so they could get from one side of the island to the other. When you pass the tunnel you’ll get to the southern side of the island which is beautiful and on which vineyards grow abundant with the ‘Plavac Mali’ (Small Blue) grape, located in Sveta Nedelja, Zavala. On this southern side of the island you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches. On island’s eastern side lies the small port of Sućuraj which is also the starting point of the mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik line).

Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and best preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side.

The island’s mountains aren’t very high, however, with their coastal slopes and marvellous sea views they are ideal for any hiker’s aspirations. The possibility of sailing, mountain

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SPLIT DALMATIA COUNTY

hiking, trekking are promising as too for diving.

Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in these areas, the history of which stretches back far into the past. Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties ‘Bogdanuša’ and ‘Drenkuša’ which can not be found anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali’ due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality wine ‘Zlatan Plavac’ (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić, Vujnović and P.Z Svirče estates.

Stari Grad Tourist Board Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1, tel. (+385-21) 76 57 63, tzg-stari-grad@st.t-com.hr, www.stari-grad-faros.hr. Q Open 08:00 - 14:00, 15:00 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Vis The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of indescribable beauty.

The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in the east, Sušac.

Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, it’s an excellent place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.

The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip

Luka Nižetić, a famous Croatian singer, from the younger generation, shared his love for photography with us.

Photo by Luka Nižetić Photography

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takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split.

Things to see and do: The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don’t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito’s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city.

Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia.

One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija’ (Our Lady’s Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis.

The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches of Sv.Ciprijana (St Cyprian) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja.

Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end of the

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island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a spectacular view of below.

The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which has conserved its exceptional form.

Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn’t be the marvel that it is.

And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and enjoy a true marine experience!

It’s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island of Vis, for the island is known as the “island of sweetness”.

It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), a fish stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans (brudet), young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina na gradelima), artichokes with broad-beans and peas (artičoke sa bobom i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu), crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib) which is prepared for guests all year round and contains dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape and fennel spirits. And, let’s not forget the island’s charming wines, Viška Vugava and Plavac.

Vis Tourist Board Šetalište Stare Isse 5, tel. (+385-21) 71 70 17, tzg-visa@st.t-com.hr, www.tz-vis.hr. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

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SPLIT DALMATIA COUNTY

Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River winds a tortuous course through the countryside until it finally empties into the Adriatic.The mouth of the river passes through an impressive gorge near the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and picturesque town that is the center of what has become known as “the Omiš Riviera.” However, things were not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the area in special boats called “arrows”, so named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily into the mouth of the river.

While it’s true that today yachts are more likely to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fasttraveling pirate ships, there’s still plenty of adventure to be had in Omiš. The mountainous areas around the town make for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline blue and the history of the town can be explored in the remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of Omiš used to defend the town against attacks from Turkish invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far as the 13th century. And when you’re finished exploring the natural beauty of Omiš and it’s history, the town’s central location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your Dalmatian coast adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of terrorizing the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš.

Omiš Tourist Board Trg kneza Miroslava b.b., tel. (+385-21) 86 13 50, info@tz-omis.hr, www.tz-omis.hr, Q Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea. One of its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity’s early history. According to the Bible, Paul’s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town’s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of “Croatia’s Pompeii”.

Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman town located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two thousand years old. In response to this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you’re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the beaten path.

Solin Tourist Board Kralja Zvonimira 69, tel. (+385-21) 21 00 48, fax (+385-21) 26 09 00, tzg-solin@st.t-com. hr, www.solin-info.com. Q June - October Open 07:30 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Solin

Trogir

Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman

Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of

which have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir’s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.

Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.

While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city’s old town. Of particular importance are the churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke’s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240.

The cultural and historical significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s history. While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the city’s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.

Trogir Tourist Board Trg Ivana Pavla II / 1, tel. (+385-

21) 88 56 28, tzg-trogira@st.htnet.hr, www.tztrogir.hr.

QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Komiža, Vis, Photo by Luka Nižetić Photography

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SPLIT DALMATIA COUNTY In love with stone Stone Much has already been said about the relationship of the p e opl e of Brač an d stone, more eloquently th an we ever could.

We’ll just tr y to gi ve you a feel for what that relationship is, and how it came abou t. Since the Illyrians inhabited the island in the Bronze Age, the task of staying alive entailed clearing by hand, painstakingly, ba ck-breakin gl y, th e mul ti tude stones that are scattered in the topsoil. Over the Stonemason Daslav Petrović, c en turi es, cl earin gs who works in the school of were made where olive stonemasonry in Pučišča and trees grew, vineyards has a workshop close by flourished and sheep and goats grazed. The stone was used to build homes and fence homesteads and fields using a dry stone technique which has endured for centuries and is stunning in its craftsmanship. Stone that was not needed was simply heaped into tidy mounds. This is what gives the landscape its dappled character: green (or ochre in the summer) interspersed with grey. It has been estimated that the amount of stone moved by hand in this way exceeds that used in the construction of the Pyramids. In the perilous years when Brač was threatened by pirate attacks and Ottoman incursions, the coast was too dangerous to live on and the islanders retreated inland.

Refugees from the mainland settled in caves where you can see the expression of their fear, spirituality and joy in fabulous carvings. Stone is both a hard taskmaster and a giver of life. It is still today a source of income: the island’s high quality white limestone was first exploited in Roman times and used for great buildings such as the palace of the last Roman Emperor Diocletian in Split. Therefore, it’s not surprising that a percentage of Brač’s inhabitants is always born with the urge to create in stone. Thanks to this drive, over the centuries generations of stonemasons have bequeathed to the island beautiful campaniles and churches, statues, headstones and mausoleums. The island is a living sculpture museum. This tradition continues to this day, as several sculptors continue to create to the delight of visitors who are welcome to visit their ateliers and take home a piece of tactile sculpture. You can also visit school of stonemasonry, where future generations of masons learn their art.

Bunja If you keep an eagle eye open on your travels through the Brač countryside, you might spot openings in some of the stone cairns heaped in the fields. These are stone field cottages, called bunja in this part of Dalmatia, built using dry stone techniques. It is thought that as far back as the Bronze Age they were used for human habitation. Every bunja is a different shape, each adds its own character to the countryside. In more modern times, bunja were used as shelters for farmers and shepherds or were used to store farm implements. There are hundreds of bunja on Brač.

Similar buildings are to be found on neighbouring Hvar, on some parts of mainland Dalmatia, in Istria and other parts of the Mediterranean - with different names, of course.

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Dry stone walls (Suhozid) As the islanders cleared the

land so that they could grow crops and feed their livestock, not all of the stone went to waste. Much of it was used to fence off the boundaries of the owners’ plots, and to keep in the livestock. These centuries-old stone walls are built without a drop of mortar to hold the stone in place. This is done by using a “dry stone” technique to keep the stones in place and render the wall stable. Readers from many countries will recognise the technique, which has been used from Majorca to Machu Picchu. Since these walls are such a valuable monument to an ancient culture and centuries of work, please don’t climb on them as you may damage them!

Stone cairns As you drive through the island interior, for mile upon mile you see a landscape regularly dotted with piles of stone. It’s hard to believe that human hands formed such tidy piles to clear large expanses of land for agriculture and pasture. Sadly, most of that land is no longer farmed and is overgrown with scrub. When the phylloxera epidemic took hold of the island, countless families who had tended the fields were forced, starving, to leave and seek a new life in the New World. Sadly, where grapes and olives once grew, the pine forests are once again taking over.

Stonemasons’ school (Kamenoklesarska škola)

This fine building with its white stone columns is home to a high school dedicated to the craft of the stonemason, established in 1907, one of only three such schools in Europe. Although there has been much discussion on setting up a museum here, the way this place works is still charmingly informal: just wander in, and you can watch a class working away at enormous lumps of white stone, creating columns and capitals, fountains and filigree window lights. You feel like you’ve stepped back in time, since the forms are familiar to us from the world’s most beautiful Greek, Roman and Gothic buildings. The school can educate about 100 high school pupils each year, who come from all over the country.

The school is closed for the summer holidays from June through to the end of August but there is usually someone

on duty. If you’d like to look around, please call ahead to make sure that someone will be there to let you in. If you’d like to visit as part of a group please call ahead as well: obviously, the workshops can be busy and potentially dangerous places, so there is some need for a bit of planning. Alternatively, contact a travel agent who can arrange a guided tour.

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STREET REGISTER

STREET REGISTER

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BIŠEVO

Photo by Hotel Palace - Sunčani Hvar A. Cesarca C-3 Ante Petravića E-1/F-1 Antuna Branka Šimića E-3 Arapova C-2, H-2 Babina C-3, H-3 Bakotićeva C-2 Ban Mladenova C-3/D-3, H-2 Ban Berislavićeva C-2 Bana Josipa Jelačića I-2 Barakovićeva E-3 Barešićeva F-2/G-2 Barićeva H-2 Bartola Kašića C-3 Begovićeva C-3 Benkovačka E-2 Bernarda Vukasa E-2 Bihaćka D-2, J-1 Bijankinijeva D-3, K-3 Bilanova H-2 Bilice I G-1 Bilice II G-1 Biogradska G-3 Biokovska D-2, K-1 Biserova C-2/D-2, I-1 Bjelovarska E-2 Blatine E-3 Blaža Trogiranina B-3 Bleiburških žrtava D-2 Boktuljin put E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2 Bolska D-2, K-1 Borčićeva C-3, H-2 Bosanska I-2 Botićevo šetalište C-3 Bože Peričića E-3 Bračka F-3 BračkaUvala Zenta E-3 Brajevića prilaz H-3 Branimirova obala C-3, H-3 Bregovita D-3 Bribirska D-2, J-1

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Brune Bušića E-2 Bubalova K-3 Bukovčeva D-3 Bulićeva J-2 Buvnina I-2 Catanijin put C-3 Cesta mira F-2 Cosmijeva I-2 Cvjetna E-3 Čiovska B-3 Čulića dvori D-2/D-3, J-2 Ćiril-Metodova D-2, I-2 Dinarska E-2 Dinka Šimunovića F-3 Dioklecijanova J-2 Dobrić I-2 Dobrilina E-3/F-3 Domaldova I-2 Dominisova J-2 Domovinskog rata E-2/F-2, J-1 Doverska F-3/G-3 Drage Ivaniševića E-2 Dragovode G-2 Dražanac C-3, H-3 Drniška E-1/F-1 Drvenička B-3 Držićeva D-2 DržićevaK-1/K-2 Dubrovačka D-2/E-2 Dumanića K-3 Duplančića dvori K-2/K-3 Duvanjska D-3 Fra Bonina C-2 Fra Grge Martića E-2 Fra Luje Maruna K-2 Franje Račkog D-2, K-1 Gajeva C-2, H-1 Getaldićeva F-2 Glagoljaška D-3, K-2 Gorička D-2, J-1/K-1

Gorski put F-1/F-2/G-1 Gospinica E-3 Grada Antofagaste C-2 Gradišćanskih Hrvata F-1 Grge Novaka E-2 Gundulićeva D-2 Harambašićeva C-2, H-1 Hektorovićeva E-3 Hercegovačka E-1 Hrvatske mornarice C-2/D-2 Hrvatskih iseljenika D-2 Hrvojeva D-3, J-2/J-3 Hvarska D-3, K-3 I. G. Kovačića D-3 Ilićev prolaz I-2 Iločka E-2 Imotska F-1 Ispod Sv. Lovre G-3 Istarska D-2, J-1/J-2/K-1 Ivana Pl. Zajca E-3/F-3 Ivana Raosa F-1 Jadranska D-3 Jakova Gotovca F-2 Janjevska F-2/G-2 Jerina H-2 Jerolima Kavanjina I-1 Jesenička K-3 Jobova C-2 Kačićeva D-2, I-1 Kamenita C-2, H-1/H-2 Kapićeva E-3 Karamanova C-2 Karlovačka E-2 Kaštelanova E-3 Kaštelanska C-2 Katalinićev prilaz D-3 Kijevska F-2 Klaićeva poljana I-2 Klarina D-3, K-3 Kliška D-2

Kliška J-1 Kneza Lj. Posavskog D-2 Kneza Mislava D-3, K-2 Kneza Višeslava D-2/D-3, K-2 Kninska D-2, I-2 Kocunarski prilaz E-2/F-2 Kolombatićevo šetalište B-2/C-2/C-3 Komulovića put D-1/D-2/E-1/E-2 Kopilica E-1 Kotorska G-3 Kozjačka C-2, H-1/H-2 Kragićeva H-1 Kraj Zlatnih Vrata J-2 Kralja Stjepana Držislava G-2/G-3 Kralja Tomislava D-2, I-2/J-2 Kralja Zvonimira D-3/E-3, J-3 Kranjčevićeva E-3 Krbavska F-2 Krešimirova J-2 Križanićeva E-2 Križine F-3 Krležina E-2 Kroz smrdečac F-3 Krste Odaka E-3 Krstulovića dvori J-1/J-2 Kruševića gumno J-1 Kukočeva K-3 Kukuljevićeva E-2 Kumičićeva E-1 Kupreška F-1 Kuzmanićeva K-3 Kuzmića F-1, K-3 Kvaternikova D-2 Laginjina E-2 Lazarica E-3 Lička F-1 Livanjska D-2, J-1 Lovački put G-2 Lovretska D-2 Lovrićeve skale E-3

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PALAGRUŽA

Photo by Antonio Miše

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Summer 2013

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STREET REGISTER Lučica C-2 Lučićeva D-2, F-3 Ljubuška F-1 Makarska G-3 Mandalinski put C-2 Manđerova Manuška poljana J-1 Marangunićevo šetalište A-3 Marasovića C-3, H-3 Marjanski put B-3 Marjanski tunel C-3 Marmontova D-2, I-2/J-1 Marulićeva J-2 Matice Hrvatske E-2/E-3/F-2 Matije Gupca D-3 Matije Ivanića E-2 Matoševa C-2, H-1 Matošića D-2, I-2

Mažuranićevo šetalište D-2 Mediteranski put C-1 Mejaši I G-2 Mejaši II G-2 Mihanovićeva B-3/C-3 Mile Gojsalića D-3 Milićeva C-2/C-3, H-2 Mišina F-2 Mitnička E-3 Moliških Hrvata F-3 Mosećka E-2/F-2 Mosorska D-3, K-3 Mostarska F-1 Mostine G-1 Mrčelina I-2 Na Križice E-3 Na Toć J-3 Narodni trg D-3, I-2 Nazorova C-2/C-3, H-1

Agave, a plant which is widespread along the whole Adriatic coast, is said to live for one hundred years, and requires a long time to spring from a small rosette into a giant green plant, with thick fleshy dark green leaves and a spiny margin, which only blossoms once, Photo by Vedran Cvitković

Split In Your Pocket

STREET REGISTER Nelipćeva D-3, I-2 Nepotova D-3 Neslanovac F-1 Nigerova I-2 Ninska F-2 Nodilova D-2, I-2/J-2 Njegoševa C-3 Obala Hrvatskoga narodnoga preporoda D-3, I-2/I-3 Obala Kneza Domagoja D-3, J-3 Obala Lazareta I-3/J-3 Obrov D-3, I-2 Odeska G-3 Omiška D-3, K-3 Osječka E-2/E-3 Ostravska G-2 Ozaljska F-2/G-2 Palmina C-3, H-2/H-3 Palmotićeva D-3/E-3 Papalićeva J-2 Papandopulova F-3 Pavla R. Vitezovića F-2 Pazinska F-2 Penića H-2 Perića C-3 Perišićeva C-3, H-2 Perivoj Ane Roje F-2 Pervanova K-3 Petra Kružića I-2 Petrićeva K-2/K-3 Petrinjska E-2 Petrova D-3, J-3/K-3 Pistura I-2 Plančićeva C-2 Plinarska C-2, H-1 Plitvička E-1 Pod Kosom C-3 Podgorska C-2, H-1 Podrum J-2/J-3 Pojišanska D-3, K-3 Poljička cesta E-3/F-3 Poljudsko šetalište C-1 Popovićeva I-2 Porinova D-2, I-1 Požeška E-2 Pujanke F-2 Puntarska C-2 Pupačićeva E-3 Put Brda F-1 Put Brodarice D-2 Put Dragovoda G-2 Put Duja E-1 Put Firula E-3 Put Glavičina D-2 Put iza nove bolnice E-3 Put Meja C-3 Put Mostina G-1 Put Pazdigrada G-3 Put Plokita D-2 Put Ravnih Njiva F-1 Put Sjeverne Luke F-1 Put Skalica C-2/D-2 Put Smokvice F-1 Put Supavla D-1 Put Sv. Lovre G-2/G-3 Put Trstenika F-3 Put Žnjana F-3/G-3 R. Boškovića E-3/F-3 R. Katalinića Jeretova F-2 Radmilovića C-2, H-1 Radnička E-2 Radovanova D-3, J-3 Radunica D-3, J-2 Ramska E-1 Reića C-3, H-2 Reljkovićeva D-2, K-2 Rendićeva C-2 Riječka J-1 Rodrigina I-2/J-2 Rokova D-3, J-2/K-2 Rooseweltova E-3 Sarajevska F-1 Savska D-2/E-2 Senjska C-3, H-2 Severova D-3, J-3 Sinovčića H-2 Sinjska D-2, J-1 Siriščevića H-2/H-3 Skradinska G-3 Slavićeva C-2, J-1 Slavonska E-2 Smiljanićeva D-2, K-2 Solinska F-1/G-1 Solurat C-3, H-3

Spinčićeva E-3 Spinutska C-2 Sredmanuška J-2 Stagnja H-2 Starčevićeva D-2 Stari Pazar D-3, J-3 Stepinčeva E-2 Stinice E-1 Stoci G-1 Stonska G-3 Studinova F-2 Sućidar E-2 Sukoišanska D-2 Supilova B-3 Sustipanski put C-3 Sutroičin put C-1/D-1 Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-2 Svačićeva D-2, I-1 Svetog Križa C-2/C-3/D-2/D-3, H-2 Svilajska E-2 Š. Bačvice D-3 Šegvićeva J-3/K-3 Šenoina C-3, H-2 Šetalište BeneGunjačina B-2 Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića A-3 Šetalište Marina Tartaglie A-2/B2/C-2 Šibenska E-2 Šižgorićeva E-2/E-3 Škrape E-3 Šoltanska F-3 Šopova G-2 Šperun C-3, H-2 Šubićeva I-2 Table D-2 Teslina C-2 Težački put G-2 Tijardovićeva F-2 Tolstojeva D-2/D-3, J-2/K-1 Tomića Stine H-2 Tončićeva D-2/D-3, I-2 Trg Braće Radić I-2 Trg Gaje Bulata I-1 Trg Republike C-3/D-3, I-2 Triljska F-1 Trogirska D-2/D-3, I-2 Trondheimska F-2/F-3 Trpimirova D-3, J-3 Trstenik F-3 Tršćanska D-2 Trumbićeva obala C-3, H-3 Trumbučac J-3/K-3 Ulica Slobode D-2 Uskočka E-3 Uvala Baluni C-3 V. Krstulovića E-3 V. Lisinskog C-2/C-3 Valpovačka E-2 Varaždinska E-2 Velebitska D-2/E-2 Vesanovića K-3 Vetranićeva C-3 Vidilica D-3 Vijugasta H-1 Viktora Vide G-2 Vinka Draganje E-2 Vinkovačka E-2 Vinodolska F-2 Viskotina K-3 Visoka F-2 Viška D-3 Vjekoslava Paraća E-2 Vladimira Gortana H-2 Vrančićeva E-2 Vranjički put E-1/F-1 Vrgoračka G-2 Vrh Kmana E-2 Vrh Lučac D-3, K-3 Vrh Visoke F-2 Vrlička F-1 Vrzov Dolac D-3, K-2/K-3 Vukasovićeva D-2, J-2 Vukovarska D-2/E-2, K-1 Washingtonova D-2, K-1 Zadarska G-1, I-2 Zagorski put F-1/F-2/G-21 Zagrebačka D-2, J-2/J-3 Zbora narodne garde G-1/G-2 Zlodrina poljana D-3, J-3 Zoranićeva D-2, I-1 Zrinsko-Frankopanska C-2 Zupina F-2 Zvizdina J-3 Žmovnička D-3/E-3

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Summer 2013

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etalište Marangunićevo š Šetalište Ivana Meštrović

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Stadium

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Put Supav la

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šte tali o še