Split In Your Pocket No7

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Split Summer 2014

Dalmatian Zagora

Ten must-visit places in inland Croatia

Insider Tips

When local, be local, go local!

Makarska Riviera

From sun to sea, an experience that touches all the senses

N°7 - complimentary copy split.inyourpocket.com

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Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Sightseeing

Foreword

4 The editor’s choice on what not to miss this summer

Arrival & Getting Around

6 11 12

Makarska Riviera Split Surroundings Leisure

Split Pulse 16

Shopping

Insider tips by locals

Perfect gifts and souvenirs 17 23

Nightlife

Hotels Directory

27

Maps & Index

28

Street register County map City centre map City map

Easily the best scene in the world!

Step out in Split style

65 66 73 75

Grown up important stuff

Fresh and always a buzz!

Coffee & Cakes

53

Your home away from home

Enjoy the riches

Local Flavour

40

Adventure sports, sailing...

Festival fun and music mania

Restaurants

36

10 must-visit places

Out and about around the city

Basic tips

Culture & Events

Dalmatian Zagora

Get to know Makarska Riviera

Land ahoy! Planes, Trains & Automobiles

City Basics

30

Check out the highlights

76 77 79 80-82

Photo by Dalmatia Explorer-Adventure Eco Tours

Discover the hidden parts of Dalmatia; its hinterland will excite you, its natural beauty will enlighten you, its hospitability will delight you, and its food will heighten you and your love for this magical setting! For more see pages 36-39

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Foreword Our new revamped IYP layout is a buzz with more to give to our beloved readers. Welcome to Split, a sunshine city filled with action aplenty and we’re here to make your stay, better than OK! Fabulous festivals of flair and fun dominate the seasonal calendar – Ultra Europe is one of the gem events amidst many electronic festivals down the coast. Don’t miss other music and beach festivals of various genres – A Sustipan Night’s Dream, Ethnoambient Salona, Bačvice Beach Festival...

When in Split, do what most Splićani do; visit the Pazar and Peškarija (fruit and fish market) for some autochthonic goodies and the experience of Dalmatian life! We have a special on Dalmatian Zagora, the unspoiled natural hinterland as well as its authentic local specialties. When the weather starts to scorch, we advise the Makarska Riviera for some of the most beautiful beaches along the Adriatic Coast.

With lots of info on what’s in as well as specials and handy tips, we hope your personal IYP guide comes in handy.

Wishing you all a spectacular and memorable summer in Split!

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1846-856X Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Split In Your Pocket, Draškovićeva 66, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 481 30 27, 481 10 70, fax (+385-1) 492 39 24 zagreb@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin Print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Jenna Parish, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Reasearcher/Public relations Anita Marinić Design Ela Banda Photography Split In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover © Rick DeMeis, Peristil View. One of the participants of the photo competition Sales & Circulation Manager Kristijan Vukičević Support Sales Anita Marinić, Kristina Štimac, Blanka Valić zagreb@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

About IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world. The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year

by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter. com/inyourpocket).

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Photo by Josipa Bilić

Arrival & Getting Around

By boat Split’s ferry port isn’t a bad place to make the transition from nautical to more land-oriented modes of transportation and has a load of services on offer. If you happen to see policemen strolling around, don’t be disturbed: those are just the customs officers that work at the office located in the port. The toilet near the back of the port operates around the clock. Changing currency: There are at least four ATMs spaced out at regular intervals throughout the building. Split Tours operates an exchange office during their working hours. Calling home: There are two public phones inside the building. Calling cards can be purchased from the kiosks that line the street directly outside the station. Getting to town: Directly across the street is the Trajektna luka bus stop, with service to several points around town. Check the schedule posted inside the stop to find the information you need. Make a left out of the port and a short walk up the street takes you to the taxi stand; continue further and you’ll reach the old town in about five minutes. Given its location in the middle of Dalmatia, Split serves as the main hub for reaching the mid-Dalmatian islands like Hvar, Brač, Šolta and Vis. For domestic travel, prices vary according to which island you wish to travel to.

The basic price rundown is something like this: 33 - 68kn per person and 160 - 530kn for cars. Motorcycles will cost you 70 - 147kn and bicycles 38 - 62kn. Pets are allowed on board for no extra fee and we also strongly encourage pets to wear some type of cute little life vest.The journey from Split to Šolta takes about half an hour and the trip to Vis takes about two and a half hours. On all ferries, you’ll find bars where you can buy some snacks and a drink or two.

Jadrolinija Jadrolinija caters for public transportation towards the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Šolta by ferries (will take cars) or catamarans (foot passengers only). Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line RijekaSplit-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online. For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.

QD-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 33 83 33, ag.split@ jadrolinija.hr, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 04:30 - 24:00.

July, August Open 00:00 - 24:00.

Kapetan Luka, Krilo Krilo catamaran running to Vis island and Dubrovnik via Milna, Hvar, Korčula. QD-3, Gat Sv. Petra, tel. (+385-21) 64 54 76, ivana.tomic@krilo.hr, www.krilo.hr. Open 07:30 - 18:30, Tue, Thu 06:00 - 16:00, Fri 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 07:30 - 20:00.

MSC Krstarenja SNAV agent runs the Split-Ancona ferry line.QD-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 52, split@msckrstarenja. com, www.msckrstarenja.com. Open 08:00 - 20:30.

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Split Tours Blue Line International agent with Split-Ancona and HvarAncona ferry lines. Also at the Obala Lazareta 3 (Riva).QD3, Gat Sv.Duje bb (Ferry terminal), tel. (+385-21) 35 25 33, booking@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 15:30 - 20:30. A

By bus Split’s bus station is fairly small but has everything you need to make arriving relatively painless. A toilet (open 00:00 - 24:00) 4kn can be found inside the station, along with the domestic and international ticket windows and an information desk. The domestic ticket window offers a twenty-four hour service and the information desk operates from 00:00 - 24:00.The international ticket office operates 06:00 - 22:00. The red and blue posters on the window of the international ticket office list the international arrivals and departures. Left luggage: A left luggage point (open 06:00 - 22:00) is accessed from the street; turn left out of the station and drop off your bags for a flat rate of 5kn per hour, per piece of luggage, every next hour you pay 1.5kn. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the train station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the bus station.

Main bus station (Autobusni kolodvor Split) If you’re planning a return trip to a domestic destination, make sure to check bus operators and travel times, as return tickets usually require you to travel with the same company on each leg of the trip. Also, if you happen to be travelling to the northern part of Croatia, check if the bus will be using the new highway or the curvy, car-sicknessinducing but aesthetically-pleasing old roads, which can affect the length of your trip.QJ-3, Obala Kneza Domagoja 12, tel. (+385-) 060 32 77 77/(+385-21) 32 91 80, info@ak-split.hr, www.ak-split.hr.

Tourist Information Tourist Information Centre QD-3, Obala Hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 9, tel. (+385-21) 36 00 66, touristinfo@visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

Tourist Information Centre QJ-2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 06, touristinfo@ visitsplit.com, www.visitsplit.com. Open 08:00 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

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If you haven’t heard about us by now, it’s mainly because all the reviewers are still here. They refuse to leave. There’s like 50 of them. It costs a lot to feed them.

DeBelly restaurant, situated in the very centre of Split and in the hip GoliBosi design hostel, is a nice place with a nice olive grove terrace where hungry people go for a quick mood improvement in the form of delicious meals and / or wide variety of drinks, with prices styled with every wallet in mind.

Morpugova poljana 2, Split +385 21 510 999

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Arrival & Getting Around By car From Zagreb So you have your own wheels and you’d like to know the easiest way to get to Split from Zagreb. No worries! The fastest and easiest way to get from point Z to point S is to use the Zagreb-Split highway, otherwise known as E-65 on international road maps and as A-1 inside Croatia. The route on the A-1 from Zagreb to Split is about 380 kilometres long and will take 3,5 to 4 hours total, as well as relieving you of 174 kunas for toll fees. When the signs let you know you’re getting close to Split, look for the Dugopolje exit and that’s that!

From Slovenia Traveling from Ljubljana to Split is a breeze. All you need to do is follow highway E-70 to Zagreb, then hit the A-1 and keep an eye out for the Dugopolje exit to Split.

From Italy Traveling from Italy to Split by car? Here are your directions, nice and sparkling clear. First, take the E-70 motorway to Trieste and look for the signs that point to Fiume and route number E-61 (local route 7), which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Then, take route E-61, which will take you towards Rijeka. When possible, get on E-65 (local route 6) to Bosiljevo, where you’ll see signs for the A-1, which you follow right in to Split. Just look for the exit labeled Dugopolje.

TAXI The simplest way to call a taxi is to dial 060 850 850 or if you own a Croatian Vip or T-Com sim card call 1777.

If you’re with Tele 2, dial (021-1777). The starting fee for a taxi trip is 18kn, with a 10kn fee added per kilometre and 2.5kn added per each piece of luggage and 50kn per hour for waiting. There is no additional charge for traveling at night. Taxis wait in front of most major hotels, Firule and Križina hospitals, at the ferry port, at the main bus station and near the Riva.

Photo by P. Soulhiard

By plane Split’s airport is 30km out of town and is rather small but quite pleasant, situated as it is quite close to the sea. Any questions upon arriving can be directed to the nice people at the information desk, which is open from 05:15 - 23:00.

Follow the steps leading down from the main hall to find a toilet and a baby-changing station. Toilets can also be found by heading upstairs from the main hall. Changing currency: Splitska Banka (Open 07:30 - 19:30) has an exchange office and it can be found at the far end of the main hall. There are also two ATMs in the same hall. Calling home: You can purchase a phone card at the newsstand (open according to flight times). There are public phones in two locations: first, in the main hall next to the Internet point (which offers free Internet, incidentally!); and second, upstairs between the two doors leading to the men’s and women’s toilets.

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Public transport Public transport in Split is organised by Promet Split buses. There are day bus lines 1 through 18, 21 and 22, that run from 05:00 to 23:00, and three night lines (23,39, and 40) running Fridays and Saturdays only.

Maps and schedules for each line can be found at their respective stops. Tickets can be purchased on the bus for 11 kn or from Promet Split kiosks near each bus stop for 9 kn. If you’re trying to beat the system and chance it without a ticket, the penalty when caught (and you most certainly will be, buddy!) is 70 kn. Split is covered by one zone, so a ticket is good for one trip anywhere in the city. Sukoišanska (D-2) is the main station from which you can catch buses for Trogir, Omiš, the airport, and other destinations outside of Split. Sukoišanska’s ticket office operates from 06:30 to 20:00 on weekdays, 06:30 to 12:00 on Saturdays, and is closed on Sunday.

To contact the Sukoišanska station dial (+385-21) 48 06 56. For general information regarding bus services call (+385-21) 40 79 99.

Promet Split QE-1, Hercegovačka 20, tel. (+385-21) 40 78 88, promet@promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.

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Arrival & Getting Around NATIONAL HOLIDAYS January 1 January 6 March 31 April 1 May 1 May 30 June 22 June 25 August 5 August 15 October 8 November 1 December 25 December 26

New Year’s Day Epiphany Easter Easter Monday International Workers' Day Corpus Christi Anti Fascist Resistance Day Statehood Day Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day Feast of the Assumption Independence Day All Saints’ Day Christmas Saint Stephen’s Day

Travel agencies F-tours putovanja QD-2, Trg Hrvatske bratske zajednice 3, tel. (+38521) 34 48 42, desk@f-tours.hr, www.f-tours.hr.

Open 08:30 - 18:30, Sat 08:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Split Tours QD-3, Gat Sv.Duje bb, tel. (+385-21) 35 25 33, booking@splittours.hr, www.splittours.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 15:30 - 20:30.

A Getting to town: If you prefer to go by car, there are a number of car rental agencies operating in the main hall.

Otherwise, your choices are taxi, public bus or Plesoprijevoz airport bus. Taxis take about thirty minutes from the airport and shouldn’t cost more than 300kn for the trip. Public bus No 37 stops just in front of the airport at twenty-minute intervals on weekdays and thirty-minute intervals on weekends, with tickets costing 17kn one-way; cross the street and wait at the stop there. Plesoprijevoz buses run according to the arrival times of flights and drop you at the main bus station, just next to the old town for 30kn.

Split Airport-Kaštela (Zračna luka Split-Kaštela) QCesta dr.Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, uprava@ split-airport.hr, www.split-airport.hr.

Brač Airport Situated 14km away from Bol and 30km from Supetar, the biggest town on the island of Brač, this small airport started operations in 1993 and is open year round, with charter flights organized only during the summer. The airport accepts planes with a maximum capacity of 100 passengers or fewer.QVeško Polje, Gornji Humac, tel. (+385-21) 55 97 11, info@airport-brac.hr, www.airport-brac.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 20:00. September Open 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 19:00. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Arrival & Getting Around

By train The train station has very few amenities, save for the coinoperated storage lockers that can be accessed during the station’s working hours, from 06:00 - 22:00 daily. The lockers have instructions in English. Getting to town: As it’s on the same side of the street, the directions for getting around are the same as for the bus station: a left turn will eventually lead you to the Trajektna luka bus stop; a right turn will lead you to the old town and several public phones, ATMs and Internet and call centers along the way; and taxis wait to whisk you away directly in front of the train station.

Main train station Frequent trains to Zagreb, from which you can connect to a load of other European cities. The trip to Zagreb takes about eight hours, which in the summer can be made a lot less tiresome by the weekend disco train, on which passengers can enjoy the trip with dancing and music.

If you happen to be leaving on a night train from Zagreb at 23:05 or a night train from Split at 22:01, there’s one more really handy service offered at the train station. If you have a car and don’t feel like driving at night, you can load your vehicle onto the train and collect it at your destination for a fee of 186,30 - 266,30kn, plus the price of a passenger ticket.QJ-3, Obala kneza Domagoja 9, tel. (+385-) 060 33 34 44/(+385-21) 33 85 25, www.hzpp.hr.

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parking There are four parking zones and prices range from 3 - 5kn/hour depending on the zone and time. In Zone 1 parking is payable from Mon - Fri 06:30 - 21:30, Sat 07:00 - 14:00 and in Zones 2, 3, and 4 from Mon - Fri 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. You can also pay using your mobile for the same price. However, be aware of the time, since if you are caught without a ticket when you’re supposed to have one you might catch a fine of 75kn (Zone 1), 48kn (Zone 2, 3) and 36kn (Zone 4).

Aside from zoned street parking, another option for parking in Split is guarded parking areas, which vary in price per hour from 5 to 10kn depending on your proximity to the centre. So, if you’re parking near the Riva, you can bet on a maximum 10 kn charge for the first hour and 15kn per hour thereafter. Most of the lots operate around the clock.

Promet Split QD-2, Gundulićeva 29, tel. (+385-21) 48 10 97, parking@promet-split.hr, www.promet-split.hr.

SMS Parking There are 4 zones indicated by signs on parking boxes located at even intervals along the street: zone 1 (red - 70 8211), zone 2 (blue - 70 8212), zone 3 (green - 70 8213) and zone 4 (yellow - 70 8214).

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City Basics Customs

Visas

As Croatia entered the EU on July 1, there are no longer custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

Since Croatia has become a new member of the European Union on July 1, 2013, the Croatian visa policy became fully compliant with the European Union visa policy. What does that mean? All citizens of states that need visas to enter other EU member states need a visa to enter Croatia also.

Therefore, make sure to visit the Croatian consulate/embassy in your country of origin, before visiting Croatia.

Disabled travellers Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

Electricity The electricity supply is 220W, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

Money There are plenty of exchange offices around Split, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

Public Toilets When you gotta go, you gotta go! Split has several public toilets most of which are clean, tidy and in very good condition. They are located on King Tomislav Street (I-2), the Tourist Palace (J-3), at the Matejuška little bay area (H3) close to the Riva, whilst the toilet on Nepotova Street (J-2) is equipped with facilities for the disabled. Prices are around 4kn or 0.50€

Roads When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/ph unless otherwise marked, 80 km/ ph on secondary roads and 130 km/ph on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Water Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Split significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Firule Hospital in Spinčićeva 1 (E-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385 1) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call 195.

Basic data Population: Croatia (April 2011): 4,290,612 Split County (April 2011): 455,242 Split (April 2011): 178,192 Territory: Croatia’s land territory takes up 56,542km2.

It shares borders with Hun­gary, Slovenia, Serbia, Montenegro, Bosnia-Herzegovina and a sea-border with Italy. The highest peak (1,831m) is in the Dinara Mountains which create a natural border between Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina.

Dalmatian coast: The coast is the main tourist attraction for good reason - the crystal clear wa­ters are some of the most beautiful on the planet and among its most pure!

Islands: An amazing 1,185 islands lie off the Croatian coast, 47 of them inhabited.

Climate: Mediterranean Local time: Croatia is part of the Central European Time Zone (GMT+1): when it is noon in Split it is 12:00 in Berlin, 11:00 in London, 06:00 in New York, 14:00 in Moscow, and 21:00 in Sydney.

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Culture & Events

Mo’Horizons - Voi’Sa Festival

Exhibitions 06.05 Tuesday - 30.08 Saturday Dujmovača Express An exhibition showcasing the recent archaeological research and history of Dujmovača, a part of Split located at its north-eastern edge, from ancient times until the modern day. The location which was named after the creek and Church of St. Duje will be presented through maps, drawings, photos and layouts.QJ-2, Split City Museum, Papalićeva 1, muzej-grada-st@st.htnet.hr, www.mgst. net.

15.05 Thursday - 30.09 Tuesday First Ferries on the Croatian Adriatic The Croatian History Museum marks the 55th anniversary of the first ferry which had sailed our shores. It was named ‘Bodulka’ and was on the route Crikvenica-Šilo (island of Krk). A book accompanies the exhibition with a history of ferry connections along the Adriatic.QK-2, Croatian Maritime Museum Split, Glagoljaška 18, hpms@hpms. hr, www.hpms.hr.

July - End of September Istranka – Dalmat, The Road to Sarajevo and Funeral Convoy 1914 A photo exhibition dedicated to the last heir to the throne of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Franz Ferdinand, and the start of WWI. It happened in Sarajevo with his remains taken on the ship ‘Dalmat’ (better known as Istranka) along the Croatian coast to Trieste. The mournful procession is shown in great detail.QK-2, Croatian Maritime Museum Split, Glagoljaška 18, hpms@hpms.hr, www.hpms.hr.

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14.07 Monday - 14.08 Thursday Antonio Segui This famous Argentinean painter with a Parisian address is part of the so-called new figuration artistic movement. His works are filled with scenes of human crowds set in the urban environment in all of its constraints. Man amongst the masses!QInstitute HAZU, Milesi Palace, Trg braće Radića 7; Kula Gallery, Kralja Tomislava 10.

August - September Zlatko Prica – Selected works from the Prica Gallery Collection, POU Samobor The Split audience will be able to view a selection of Zlatko Prica’s best works; an artist who during his fifty year career has become one of Croatia’s most celebrated painters. Born in 1916 in Pecs, present day Hungary, he studied under the supervision of Croatian greats and is known for his colourful, playful and very expressive artworks.QJ-2, Emanuel Vidović Gallery, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, muzej-grada-st@st.htnet.hr, www.mgst.net.

27.08 Wednesday - 01.10 Wednesday Vlado Martek Setting the benchmark, Martek is a post-conceptual artist whose collages, text-diagrams and combined works have a paradoxical and humorous touch. By using chromatic contrast (red and black), Martek is identified for his originality and newness.QJ-2, Kulla Gallery, Kralja Tomislava 10, www.galerija-kula.hr.

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Culture & Events Special events 08.02 Saturday - 27.09 Saturday Art market Head to the Prokurative any Saturday morning and you’re bound to bump into the city’s creative individuals and organisations. Lots of goodies to buy, events and performances to see, themed art exhibits and oenological tastings!QI-2, Prokurative (Trg Republike). Starts 09:00 - 15:00.

06.06 Friday - 14.06 Saturday Split Mediterranean Film Festival Don’t miss out on attending this year’s Mediterranean Film Festival in June! These films, directed and produced by locals from the mediterranean region, are viewed outside in the open air cinema Bačvice or in cinema Zlatna Vrata, located in Diocletian’s 1700-year-old palace. As a special addition, a new open air cinema will be introduced this year. Along with film screenings, workshops and lectures are organized for all- from professional directors and producers, to young aspiring filmmakers, to the general public. A film frenzy will engulf the Dalmatian coast this summer as Split’s traditional Film Festival will be moving to 20 towns and cities in a project entitled ‘Mediterranean Cinema’. For all details on dates and visiting programmes, visit www.fmfs.hr. QBačvice Summer Cinema; Kinoteka Zlatna vrata, Dioklecijanova 7; Caffe bar Galerija (Split Art Gallery), Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, www.fmfs.hr.

02.07 Wednesday - 03.07 Thursday A Sustipan Night’s Dream With over 5,000 people in attendance last year, this event has become a music brand. Concerts will be led by two guitar virtuosos in Vlatko Stefanovski and Miroslav Tadić, plus the charismatic Rundek Cargo Trio. The Sustipan Cape is the perfect setting amidst ancient pine trees and lovely park surroundings. Bring a blanket!QC-3, Sustipan, www. ritamprodukcija.com.

11.07 Friday - 13.07 Sunday Ultra Europe Festival What can we say? The biggest, the most ultimate electronic dance festival in Europe is here, and here to stay.

Enter the Poljud Stadium for the likes of David Guetta, Carl Cox, Hardwell, Armin Van Buuren, Afrojack, Tiesto and more world DJs amazing the masses.QPoljud Stadium, 8.

Mediteranskih igara 2; Hotel Amfora Grand Beach Resort, Hvar, www.ultraeurope.com. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Photo by Fernando Soprano - Island Port, Cres, 1963.

16.06 Monday Laibach Things get really loud and heavy with this legendary Slovenian avant-garde music group always seen as controversial because of their totalitarian-style image and heavy industrial/neo-classical music style. They tour in promotion of their latest album ‘Spectre’.QI-1, Croatian National Theatre, Trg Gaje Bulata 1. Concert starts at 21:00. Tickets 120 - 160kn.

Photo by Tošo Dabac - Game, Split

08.08 Friday - 21.08 Thursday Friends of the Sea

This open air exhibition will display 60 big format art photographs from the 60s, with the theme being, ‘Life on the Croatian Adriatic,’ and will show local and foreign visitors works

by Ante and Zvonimir Brkan, Joso Špralja, Tošo Dabac, Nikola Vučemilović, Milan Pavić, Mladen Grčević, Nenad Gattin, Alojz Orel, Đuro Griesbach, Ivo Tolić, Andro Damjanić, Fernando Soprano, Marija Braut, Zlata Laura Mizner, Igor Emili, Viktor Hreljanović, Mladen Tudor...QC-3, Branimirova obala, www. prijateljimora.com.

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Culture & Events A Sustipan Night’s Dream, Photo by Luka Kivela

14.07 Monday - 14.08 Thursday The 60th Split Summer Festival A traditional summer festival of opera, theatre, dance and music will be held in venues throughout historical centre of Split. Together with local productions by the Croatian National Theatre in Split, the festival will host many musical, theatre and dance perfomances from Croatia and abroad.QVarious locations across Split, www.splitskoljeto.hr.

18.07 Friday - 19.07 Saturday Split Blues Festival Who’s got the blues! Split of course, ooze to the sound of blues in one of the largest regional festivals of this genre.

As always, the event has a high level of production and attracts some of the best Croatian and international musicians. Free admission!QD-3, Riva.

01.08 Friday - 02.08 Saturday Bačvice Beach Festival After last year’s huge success with 7,000 pumping visitors, Split’s audacious Bačvice Beach now hosts two days of electronic music. Dance under the stars to UK DJ Dave Clarke plus ten hit DJs from Croatia and this part of Europe.

QD-3, Bačvice Beach. Starts 21:00 - 05:00.

30.08 Saturday - 06.09 Saturday MAGfestival For the 5th year in a row, as organized by the Young Academic Musicians Association, a chamber music festival will be held at the beautiful venue of the Gothic Hall of the Split City Museum. By purchasing a ticket, visitors will not only be able to participate in the concert but will also be able to visit the Split City Museum and see the permanent display of the Emanuel Vidović Gallery.QJ-2, Split City Museum, Papalićeva 1, www.udrugamag.com.

www.inyourpocket.com 14 Split In Your Pocket

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County events 12.06 Thursday - 15.06 Sunday Battle of the Nations The glory, the passion, the honour! 35 nations are set to appear in the fifth ever World Cup of this exclusive event where armoured knights representing their countries do full battle in the Medieval Trogir fortress.QKamerlengo Fortress, Trogir, www.battleofthenations.ua.

19.06 Thursday - 22.06 Sunday For Festival The FOR 2014 musical event will take place on the island of Hvar and will feature a number of artists, including Klaxons, Bok Bok, Tiger & Woods, Fort Romeau, Maurice Fulton, Storm Queen... This event will combine the pleasures of summer island beauty, along with breathtaking musical performances. Due to the small capacity of the venue, only 2,500 visitors can enter, so don’t miss out on securing your tickets ahead of time.QTown Hvar, island Hvar, talktome@for-festival.com, www.for-festival.com.

05.07 Saturday - 26.07 Saturday Festival Dalmatian Klapa Omiš Established in 1966, this musical extravaganza featuring Croatian a cappella music is held annually in Omiš. Don’t miss out on the 48th Festival featuring all men or all women vocal groups, as well as mixed groups. These beautiful voices will leave you breathless!QOmiš, www.fdk.hr.

15.07 Tuesday - 19.07 Saturday Supetar Super Film Festival A festival of contemporary European documentary film with a programme of accompanying events, including concerts by leading Croatian bands and exhibitions and art workshops on themes related to the programme of films. The festival takes place over five days.QSupetar, Brač, supetar.super@gmail.com, www.supersupetar. com.

Split.inyourpocket.com

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Culture & Events Culture Centres Alliance Fraincaise QI-2, Marmontova 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 72 90, info@alliance-francaise-split.com, www.alliancefrancaise-split.com. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. MKC-Multimedia Culture Centre (Multimedijalni kulturni centar) QD/E-2, Ulica slobode 28, tel. (+385-21) 53 74 49/ (+385-21) 53 74 71, mkcsplit@mkcsplit.hr, www. mkcsplit.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 18.07 Friday - 19.07 Saturday Ethnoambient Salona The spirit of this event is global whilst it firmly remains local. This yearly gathering truly defines how diverse world music really is. It presents musicians who get their inspiration in combining traditional and contemporary music from their countries of origin. Hear sounds from around the globe with this musical celebration of cultural differences!

Hear the sounds of Kila (Ireland),Greekadelia (Greece), Kries (Croatia)...QGradina, Solin, ethnoambient@gmail.com, www.ethnoambient.net.

20.07 Sunday - 27.07 Sunday Vanka Regule A festival of outdoor adventure sports plus a film festival dedicated to adventure themes equals, with a sprinkling of photography equals fun for just about everyone. Sports featured include climbing, free ride biking, indo board, windsurfing, sailing, sea kayaking, slacklining, trail running and stand up paddling (which we didn’t think sounded very difficult until we saw the pictures).QSutivan, Brač, vanka.regule@st.t-com.hr, www.vankaregule.com.

25.07 Friday - 31.07 Thursday The Legend of Miljenko and Dobrila A tale of forbidden love! Croatia’s true and tragic counterpart to Romeo and Juliet is reinvigorated in the town of Kaštela, home to Miljenko and Dobrila. The entire town and its people transport back into the 17th century, see re-enactments of the legendary tale where family dispute stands in the way of love, ending in death.QKaštela, www.kastela-info.hr 16.08 Saturday - 17.08 Sunday Moondance Festival Reach to the sky, see the sea, the starry night and dance under the moonlight. Welcome to the 2nd edition of this grand electronic music festival, headliners include Nina Kraviz, Agoria, Anthony Rother, Vince Watson and Forest People.QKamerlengo Fortress, Batarija Stadium and St Mark’s Fortress, Trogir, www.moondancefest.com.

18.08 Monday The Pirate Battle of Omiš The Pirate Battle of Omiš is a unique and fascinating event that reconstructs a battle that took place in the 13th century and as a result, marked Omiš as the “City of Pirates.”

The role-playing battle describes the fight between the Venetian fleet, commanded by Akoncije with pirates from Omiš, led by Malduk. The battle took place in the harbour in Omiš and ended with the Venetians having to pay a fee in gold coins to pass through the Brač channel. The victory lead to a roaring applause from the local citizens, as they chanted the name of Malduk in celebration.QCity port, Omiš.

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More Events June - October

Pave Majić

Studio Naranča Gallery

Graphics and paintings

June 10 - July 13

“Revija Urbane Kulture Here’s a Hand”

Riva

Daily concerts by renowned Croatian artists

June 15

10th Picigin World Cup

Bačvice Beach

Jump, dive, and flip

June16 - 28

Festival of street entertainers

Various city centre locations

Clowns, jugglers, acrobats

July 05 - 07

The Split Festival

Prokurative

San Remo Music Festival of Croatia

July 17

Derrick Carter (USA)

Pink Champagne Hvar, Hvar

Pioneer of the Chicago house scene

July 17 - 19

S.A.R.S. Festival

Sinj

Festival of alternative music

August 01 - 03

Voi’Sa festival

Acapulco Beach, Supetar, Brač

Summer eclectic music event

August 07

The Magician (BE)

Pink Champagne Hvar, Hvar

Star of the electro scene

August 16 - 19

Days of Diocletian

Various city centre locations

Re-enactment of Roman rule

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Split Pulse

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

We asked five locals - who live or work Sonja Dvornik in Split - to give us a few tips on how to photographer (author of the site “Bilo kud enrich your stay in this city and make klikom svud”) it that bit more interesting.

SIYP: What is your favorite place for drinking coffee or Teodora Grgić Jeličić professor and gallerist SIYP: Your spot for drinking coffee, going out at night?

Teodora: Wine and Cheese Bar (Cankarjeva Poljana), Crème de la Crème-dessert restaurant, Uje Oil Bar, the unavoidable waterfront and the coast on the western side of Split.

SIYP: A secret place to relax?

Teodora: Figa Food Bar (formerly Pulse), No Stress.

SIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?

Teodora: The sandy beaches Firule, Marjan and Žnjan.

SIYP: Recommendations for shopping in the city?

Teodora: The city center with its countless shops by Croatian designers, with jewelry and handcrafted items (support local designers) and applied arts.

SIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?

Teodora: For sure Soparnik, Split Cake, something from Uje bar or Fige and something exclusive at Zrno Soli.

Matko Petrić director (see Klapa Cambi or music video “Vrata moje sestre,˝ Split artist Zlatan Stipišić- Gibonni) SIYP: Your spot for drinking coffee, going out at night?

Matko: Coffee at Boom Bar. A café, which is also a subsidiary school for percussionists.The owner plays the violin and there is often music playing while you drink coffee.

SIYP: A secret place to relax?

Matko: I love to walk along the sea. Anywhere. I love the waterfront when there are not a lot of people. That’s when I’m content.

SIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?

Matko: The beach at Hotel Lav. SIYP: Recommendations for shopping in the city?

Matko: Shopping at City Center One. SIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?

Matko: It is not local, but I like to have at lunch most at Makrovega in Geto or at the Chinese restaurant in the Lavčević building. Both are top-quality. I must have some Asian ancestry.

16 Split In Your Pocket

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going out in Split?

Sonja: Caffe bar Galerija, Dominisova 9.

SIYP: Recommendations for a beach?

Sonja: Jadran Beach.

SIYP: What is your secret place to escape from the crowds?

Sonja: Then it wouldn’t be a secret anymore.

SIYP: Which souvenirs from Split should visitors bring home with them?

Sonja: Some good red wine, olive oil and lavender.

SIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?

Sonja: Bakalar (dried cod with potatoes), octopus ispod peke (under the bell), high quality fish ...rožata, carob cake...

Maja BirimiŠa Grgić dr.dent.med.

SIYP: Your spot for drinking coffee, going out at night?

Maja: Bajamonti, Zinfandel.

SIYP: A place to relax?

Maja: Marjan Forest Park SIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?

Maja: Obojena Svjetlost (Coloured Light Beach).

SIYP: A place for shopping?

Maja: City Center One. SIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?

Maja: Black Risotto (cuttlefish).

Zrinka Ivušić optometrist SIYP: Your spot for drinking coffee, going out at night?

Zrinka: Zlatna Vrata, cafes along the waterfront.

SIYP: A place to relax?

Zrinka: Bačvice, Žnjan and Marjan beaches.

SIYP: Which beach do you recommend for swimming?

Zrinka: Makarska Riviera, Bilin Žal beach on the island of Korčula.

SIYP: A place for shopping?

Zrinka: Small shops around the city center.

SIYP: Which local specialties should visitors try?

Zrinka: Pašticada with gnocchi.

Split.inyourpocket.com

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Restaurants International Aci Grašo With a view of the ACI marina from its dining room, the Aci Grašo has an extravagant inner charm about it. Try any of the grilled fish dishes or even one of the risottos. Dine with fine wine as you linger over the views and visit the cigar bar. Parking is free.QC-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+38521) 39 85 60, restaurantadriatic@yahoo.com, www. adriatic-graso.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 125kn).

PAGBW Apetit Apetit is geared both visually and culinarily towards a modern audience. The restaurant, beautifully set on the first floor of the 15th century Papalić Palace, has beautiful bare stone walls highlighted with an uplifting green colour, and is furnished with airy simplicity. Dalmatian classics are prepared in a pleasingly simple way with just a twist to bring them up to date. There are vegetarian choices, and top quality wine is served by the glass.QI-2, Šubićeva 5, tel. (+385-21) 33 25 49/(+385-) 098 173 07 36, apetit.split@gmail.com, www.apetit-split.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (60 - 120kn). PJA6GW Bistro Toć Curl up among the greenery and stone walls of this cozy little terrace, decorated with sailboat pictures and hanging plants. Offers a vegetarian menu, such as grilled tofu salad, grilled cheese with soy sauce and zucchini spaghetti with salsa. For meat lovers, chicken spaghetti, gulaš and sarma, is also available. To quench your thirst, sip on a fruit smoothie or fresh juice. For dessert, a snickers or jaffa cookie cake are like tasting heaven in a bowl.QJ-3/K-3, Šegvića 1, tel. (+385-21) 48 84 09, bistrotoc@yahoo.com. Open 08:00 - 23:45. (50 - 150kn). PiAGBXW Boban The indoor dining room and outdoor terrace are beautiful settings for the seafood and grilled meats prepared with traditional Croatian flair. The wine list includes only the best with labels such as Grgić, Zlatan otok and Dingač. This place does it all, and does it well.QE-3, Hektorovićeva 49, tel. (+385-21) 54 33 00, info@restaurant-boban.com, www.restaurant-boban.com. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 120kn). PA6GBW

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

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Cardo A touch of class with an elegant and modern décor backed by some cool tunes to set the atmosphere. With a cuisine that encompasses all of the Mediterranean’s charm and a wine list to impress, this five star restaurant is fair on the wallet and is sure to please.QJ-1, Domovinskog rata 49a (Hotel Atrium), tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, www.hotel-atrium.hr. Open 06:00 - 23:00. (75 - 120kn).

PiAGBW Kadena Dine with a view in a restaurant which prides itself on fine Mediterranean cuisine. Reserve a window seat overlooking the Zenta Marina or venture onto the terrace and gaze across to the Dalmatian islands. The fish platter ala Kadena is just one of the many delights on offer.QE-3, Ivana pl.

Zajca 4, tel. (+385-21) 38 94 00/(+385-) 091 522 66 85, info@restorankadena.com, www.restorankadena.com.

Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. (60 - 130kn).

PA6GBW Summer 2014

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Restaurants NoStress Bistro Located on the famous, Narodni Trg, this ultra-chic bistro is decorated with an abundance of flower pots, adorning the terrace and windowsills, giving it a romantic feel. A great spot to chat with some friends or view the latest fashion trends walking by the square, while nibbling on contemporary Croatian dishes, largely influenced from the Istrian region, such as wasabi tuna on diced tomatoes, shrimp on truffle cream cheese or beef fillet steak with creamy saffron sauce. During the summer season, it’s open until 02:00, making it a great place to enjoy a cocktail at night.

QI-2, Iza Lože 9 (Pjaca), tel. (+385-) 099 498 18 88. Open 07:30 - 24:00. (80 - 220kn). A6BXW Zinfandel’s food & wine bar According to the owners, they wanted the interior to be both industrial and rustic looking and it truly looks exquisite. Importantly, they’ve also managed to capture the hearts of guests with their contemporary Croatian cuisine and tapas, charcuterie and cheese platters, excellent wines and impeccable service. It is tucked away in a quiet little alley close to the Diocletian’s Palace.QJ-2, Marulićeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 35, zinfandelsplit@gmail.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. (65 - 130kn). Pi� JA6GBXW

Pizza Le Monde Dine with a touch of class as this slightly hidden restaurant boasts a trim interior and a choice of terraces. Dalmatian fish and meat specialties are on the menu along with local wine. It’s tucked away in the busy Varoš district but worth the visit.QH-1, Plinarska 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 22 65. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 15:00 - 23:00. (50 - 180kn).

PiA6GBX

Wine barS Klub gurmana i hedonista A fancy schmancy interior that houses traditional Dalmatian wines, authentic souvenirs and gift packages!

The bar is set in a traditional stone building, perfect for wine and only minutes from the Riva. The owner Igor is quite the connoisseur, he does offer wine tastings accompanied with various local delicacies.

QK-3, Kuzmanićeva 13, tel. (+385-) 091 380 39 66, domenico_split@yahoo.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00.

NGBW Paradox This has ‘Dalmatia’ written all over it with over 100 wines and 20 or so cheeses that are primarily local produce. Pick and choose whatever suits your taste buds.QI-1, Poljana Tina Ujevića 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 58 54. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00.

PJAGBXW 18 Split In Your Pocket

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Gušt You’ve got to make a bit of an effort to get here for it’s right at the top of Marmontova street. Pass by the department store Prima Grad and take the street on the right.

After 50m, turn left and take an immediate left again.

There you’ll find Gušt, a traditional pizzeria with delectable wood-fire oven pizzas.QJ-1, Slavićeva 1, tel. (+38521) 48 63 33. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (32 - 55kn).

PA6GW Maslina A cute little restaurant that’s a tad hard to find; we suggest you follow the signs that are off Marmontova. The service is second to none and so are the prices. The menu is filled with a wide variety of pizzas not to mention the beefsteak rolled in pancetta.QI-2, Teutina 1A, tel. (+385-21) 31 49 88, konmaslina@net.hr. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Mon, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (33 - 120kn). PA6GBW

Seafood Jugo Fish dominates the menu and you can get it cooked to your liking. Dine in or venture out onto the terrace with magical views of the old town. The yachts moored in the ACI Marina are only a stepping stone away making the walk on the Riva ever so pleasant.QC-3, Uvala Baluni bb, tel. (+385-21) 39 89 00, www.restoranjugo.com.

Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 120kn).

PiA6GBW Split.inyourpocket.com

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Restaurants Mistral Be lured by this immaculate beachside dining experience with amazing views of the Adriatic Sea set over two decks.

The bar is literally on the beach and packs refreshments of every sort imaginable. If you’re peckish, Mistral serves up specialties in seafood and meat on the grill, plus other delicacies.QF-3, Put Trstenika 19 (Radisson Blu Resort, Split), tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, info.split@radissonblu. com, www.radissonblu.com/resort-split. Open 12:00 23:00. (100 - 700kn). PTA6LEGBXW Noštromo Here’s your chance to sample a typical Croatian menu of seafood, prepared and served particularly well. Noštromo is known as one of the classiest restaurants in the area and you’ll be charged accordingly for the privilege of dining here. The paintings hanging on the walls add to the ambience - some of them are by notable Croatian artists.

QI-2, Kraj Sv.Marije 10, tel. (+385-) 091 405 66 66, info@ restoran-nostromo.hr, www.restoran-nostromo.hr.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 250kn). P6NGBW Posejdon Konobe are tiny type bar/restaurants that offer local Dalmatian specialties, and this is of no exception with an assortment of meat, fresh fish and pasta dishes on offer.

It’s located at the very entrance into the Diocletian Palace, when you pass ‘Ispod ure’ (under the clock tower) simply turn right.QI-2, Adamova 5, tel. (+385-21) 31 72 49. Open 10:00 - 01:00. (50 - 200kn). PiJA6GBW Zrno soli This restaurant has class written all over it. New to the scene, it is stylish both in and out, it is located at the ACI Marina and has lovely views of the yachts. The cuisine is Mediterranean, the service is second to none and if you do not mind forking out the extra dollar, you will definitely get what you pay for. Quality all-round!QC-2, Uvala baluni 8, tel. (+385-21) 39 93 33/(+385-) 091 561 22 84, zrnosoli. split@gmail.com, www.zrnosoli.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:30.

(80 - 100kn). PiA6GBXW

Traditional Fife Long regarded as something of a shrine to traditional Dalmatian home cooking, Fife is a perennially popular meeting point for hungry local journalists, writers and actors. Expect big, tasty and inexpensive portions of fish stew, pašticada (beef cooked in a wine stew and served with gnocchi or pasta), tripe, goulash, fried fish and stuffed paprika. Fife’s only drawback is it’s popularity with tourist guide-book writers, who have praised the place so much in recent years that it can be difficult to get a seat (or indeed get served) in high season.QH-3, Trumbićeva obala 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 52 23. Open 06:00 - 24:00. (30 - 70kn). Pi6NGBX facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Restaurants Grego Levante Charming little restaurant, beamed ceilings and an original stone wall as part of the minimalist décor! That aside, the food is Croatian with a creative twist, lots of freshness about it and we suggest the risotto with cuttlefish or shrimp. Candlelit tables give it spark and the service is A+.QD-3, Bosanska 2, tel. (+385-) 091 204 22 22, grego.levante012@gmail.com. Open 12:00 - 23:30.

PJ6NGBXW Kod Joze Konoba kod Joze is a quaint and cozy affair with absolutely delicious traditional food just like mom used to make (provided your mom happens to be a Croatian woman from Dalmatia) at a decent price. The interior is done up with rugged, satisfyingly heavy wood tables and chairs and the music is strictly classic Croatian. The green pasta with shells is a knock out.QJ-2, Sredmanuška 4, tel. (+385-21) 34 73 97. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 140kn). PA6GBW

Oštarija u Viđakovi With a fine location just steps away from Bačvice beach, this is a family-run bistro serving up some of the best traditional fare in the city. Dalmatian favourites such as tripe, sauced meatballs, bean stew and salty cod fill out an extensive menu, although you can opt for fancy fish and lobster dishes if you’re in the mood to splash out. The intimate upstairs room is perfect for a meal with a significant other, while the roomy basement provides the space you need for a bigger gathering. Checked tablecloths, ancient kitchen utensils and black-and-white photos of old Split help to keep things cosy wherever you choose to sit.

QD-3, Prilaz braće Kaliterna 8, tel. (+385-21) 48 91 06/ (+385-) 091 565 46 27. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 360kn).

PA6GBXW Pimpinella A cosy small konoba on Zenta which is part of a family house. The menu includes grilled meals, pašticada, roast lamb with vegetables and much more.QE-3, Spinčićeva 2a, tel. (+385-21) 38 96 06/(+385-) 091 121 30 14, catering@pimpinella.hr, www.pimpinella. hr. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. (45 - 70kn).

PiA6EGBXW Šperun A cute buffet restaurant positioned in the heart of the city near the Split waterfront. This small cosy eatery offers refined local cuisine with an emphasis on seafood; the interior is decorated with antiques and modern oil paintings.

The daily special is often a good bet.QH-2, Šperun 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 69 99, damabanovic@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (70 - 130kn). PJAGB

Konoba Leut This pleasant konoba is well patronised by locals as it offers good quality home-style cooking. A classic of Dalmatian cuisine is pašticada - stewed beef served with gnocchi. A local favourite is tripe, and a more unusual variant on the menu is cuttlefished cooked with broad beans. We particularly enjoyed a big bowl of kučice - clams. Plate salads are also on the menu for a lighter bite.QH-2/3, Siriščevića 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 44. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (40 - 120kn).

PiA6GBW Konoba Varoš It’s situated in a small alley next to Marmontova Street with an interior draped in creative fish nets. The menu may seem ordinary but the food is sure to satisfy your taste buds. Tuck into a big plate of lamb or veal hot from the peka (grill); or try the blue (oily) fish or octopus. It’s a tad pricey but popular with locals and the wine list is endless.QH-2, Ban Mladenova 7, tel. (+385-21) 39 61 38, konobavaros@konobavaros.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

(30 - 150kn). PAGBW 20 Split In Your Pocket

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Tratorria Tinel Try out some delicious Dalmatian specialities among the stone walls and white wooden tables, bar and credenza that give a homey feel to this restaurant. It’s a great place to eat when you’re not sure what you’re in the mood for since the menu has a large variety of choices to satisfy everyone’s cravings. Chicken, mixed vegetable or calamari salads, with a side of fish or cream of shrimp soup can be enjoyed for starters. Tortellini with four cheeses, homemade gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce, green pasta with salmon or veal steak served Viennese style are great choices for a main course.

QH-2, Tomića Stine 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 97, tinelsplit@ net.hr, www.trattoria-tinel.com. Open 08:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 150kn). PiA6GBXW Uje Oil Bar Walk in and it’s hard not to feel the cosiness of the first Croatian olive oil bar, a place for fine wining and dining with a menu revamped almost daily pending on the fresh ingredients coming through. The one thing that doesn’t change is its Dalmatian style. Open all year round and offers a truly amazing culinary experience.QJ-2, Dominisova 3, tel. (+385-) 095 200 80 08, oilbar@uje.hr, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (50 - 200kn). PiJA6GBW Split.inyourpocket.com

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Restaurants Vegetarian

Ethnic

Makrovega If you’re in need of cereals, legumes, tofu, algae or veg… you’ll find them all here, along with freshly squeezed fruit and vegetable juices. The veggies are home grown or organic.QI-2, Leština 2, tel. (+385-21) 39 44 40, makrovega108@gmail.com, www.makrovega.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 60kn).

PNGBXW

Biser Orijenta Classic Chinese dishes at super good portions. The location is a little odd since the restaruant is situated on the fifth floor of one of the bussines buildings in Split, but the interior is perfecto and the view makes up for all that. A mere 10 minute walk from the Đardin Park.QD-2, Bihaćka 2a/V, tel. (+385-21) 48 67 76, www.biser-orijenta.com.

Open 11:30 - 24:00. (35 - 115kn). PAB

Up Café An ultra-modern, chic oasis of healthy food and natural beverages, created using seasonal and organic ingredients, without any additives. This healthy cuisine, offers a huge variety of vegetarian meals, such as tofu burritos, sushi, miso soup, hemp burgers and baked vegetable crepes with cheese. All natural sweets to munch on for dessert, such as a bajadera biscuits, raffaello squares, microbiological nougat squares, taste great along with a Bazara arabic coffee, bio-fruit juice or organic tea.QD-2, Domovinskog rata 29a, www.upcafe.hr. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 17:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00. (35 - 45kn). PiNG� BXW

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Bistro Samurai Opened last year and has given Dalmatia a touch of Asia.

Conveniently situated in the city centre and just across the Hotel Bellevue, the menu offers a vast range of sushi and judging by the cuisine and interior, one can expect the complete Japanese experience in food, dining and culture.QI-2, Bana Josipa Jelačića 1, tel. (+385-21) 78 66 40, otomako@hotmail.com, www.sushibarsplit. com. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. (22 - 75kn).

PAGW Kebap & Meze bar Istah East meets west with a tasty selection of meze, Turkish delicacies and kebabs to be had - Halal certified! Food is not the only attraction with authentic Turkish tea and coffee on the menu. Positioned outside of the city centre and near the Poljud pools, this bar has a relaxed and cosy atmosphere as well as a mini terrace.QC-1, Put Supavla 1, tel. (+385-21) 38 06 40, info@istah.hr, www.istah.hr.

Open 10:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:30 - 23:00. (15 - 29kn).

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Local Flavour

Local fisherman from the island of Vis Jurica Jončić

FOOD MARKETS When it comes to food the people of Dalmatia like to have theirs simple, fresh and grown locally. There are no exotic spices or complex preparations, just natural flavours. And boy, do they taste great. In Split there is no shortage of fantastic ingredients, and there is no better place to get them than the local farmers’ market and fish market, or as Splićani call them, Pazar (Pah-zar) and the peškarija (pesh kah ria).

Now, in the mind of a foreigner it would be logical to keep these two close, but they are at exactly the opposite ends of the Riva, the main thoroughfare that runs along the quayside. This is mainly due to the fact that the peškarija is close to the former fishing port of Matejuška, while Pazar is near to one of the main roads since most of the veg is grown inland. The good thing is that Pazar is very close to the bus station and the ferry port, so if you can spare a few minutes before leaving for your favourite island you can stock up on veg since it’s at least three times more expensive on the islands. Aside from its practical uses, Pazar is one of those places where the local population and pleasure-seeking tourists tend to mix without prejudice. It’s a gathering place for people from islands like Brač, Hvar and Šolta, for the mountain people of Dalmatinska Zagora and for people from smaller local towns like the seven Kaštelas.

All of them bring their produce to the concrete benches in the shade of the eastern wall of Diocletian’s palace. Here you can find everything that grows under the sun, from strawberries, fresh or dried figs, lemons, grapes and pomegranates to wild asparagus, sun-ripened and sweet-smelling tomatoes, plus all kinds of green leafy veg like spinach and chard, aubergines, carrots, courgettes, goats’ and sheep’s cheeses, homemade jams and preserves, liqueurs and brandies, cured meats and fresh poultry. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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It’s a veritable cornucopia of flavours and colours, garnished with the lively banter of the sales people who are hoping to persuade you to taste their goods and buy their products. Some of these market sellers have been feeding the Splićani for generations. Depending on the time of day you arrive, Pazar can be quite an overwhelming experience, so it’s sometimes wise to buy a cold beer at a nearby kiosk and join the locals in the shade waiting for the prices to go down towards the end of the day. Now you’ve got all of your meat and veg and some wine and brandy, it’s time to pick out a nice piece of fish at the fish market. The peškarija is located smack bang in the middle of Marmontova, the nice marble-paved street at the western end of the Riva.

You must have seen it or at least smelled it out. No worries, due to the sulphur wells that brought Diocletian here, the air here keeps the fish hygienic as there are no flies. The fish market opens early, with the morning catch coming in even before 07:00, so set an alarm clock if you want the best pieces to end up on your grill. Dalmatian people do not eat expensive fish like dentex, john dory or the other prize catches. These all go to restaurants or tourists. Locals prefer cheaper, smaller fish like sardines, anchovies, bonito, squid, seabream, mackerel and red mullet. These fish are not only easy on the pocket, they’re tasty and healthy too - the benefits of oily fish like sardine and mackerel are renowned. Feeling a bit nervous about buying fresh fish? Just look for shiny scales, clear eyes and firm flesh. Check the gills too, which should be bright red. Now you bought it, you will have to gut it. Gross? Ask the person behind the counter, if they’re not too busy they might oblige. If not, best stick to the restaurants.

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Local Flavour Probably my puppy fat and my evident satisfaction while eating convinced my mother that I could do no wrong.

And I wasn’t half bad. She would hand me a list, and I’d have the freedom to wander around the tables, weighing up the fruit and vegetables, careful not to fall for the honeyed tones of a mountain accent which reminded me of my grandparents, or the equally mellifluous island dialect. What gave my role even more importance was the fact that my mother would give me just enough money to ensure that if I spent wisely, a couple of dinars (that was the currency in those days) would be left over, so that after two or three trips to Pazar I’d have enough for a comic.

Even such a young age it was worth being shrewd, being satisfied with a cheap ice cream from the old-fashioned machines and remembering the important things from the headlines Ante called out when selling the newspapers – the things that were important indeed because they were the reason why people bought newspapers. A small boy could feel awfully big carrying bags of groceries home from Pazar. And awfully proud when the next day his classmates would pinch his sandwich with the hunter’s salami, which you could only buy in the kiosk at the bottom end of Pazar. And endlessly flattered when his mother first said to him, «Come on, let’s take a walk at the fish market.»

The Pazar of My Childhood by Siniša Pavić

The Peškarija, the fish market, a mythical place which you just have to stroll by, you don’t have to buy a thing. It’s enough to catch the scent and know that you’re a part of that sea, that land, that city.

Pazar! The stomach, the belly, the guts of the city! The Pazar of my childhood, even though, my father says, it’s changed little over the years. It’s still endlessly colourful, full of melodious sound as the ladies behind the tables shout over each other to bring in the buyers.

Here are the smells of life, unbeatable scents, of cabbage souring in barrels, smoky dried meat, unwaxed oranges that spray out juice as you run your fingernail over the skin.

It’s the same, but different, different because when you’re small everything’s different, and when you grow up everything is more or less sentiment. When you grow up you realise: it was the university of life, of gourmets, of gluttons, of epicureans, of deliciousness. ....

My father used to set off for work at dawn, my brother was small and my mother was a solicitous mother who tried to squueze everything in despite working morning shifts one day and afternoon shifts the next. It turned out that those inconvenient hours had their bright side. Because she couldn’t make it, it would often be me who headed off to Pazar for our groceries.

....

To leave Pazar, to leave for the big wide world was easy at first. When you’re a strapping teenager those things don’t seem to matter. There are Pazars in other places, you think naively.

But there’s always some connection, it’s alive as long as your mother tells you during an evening phonecall about today’s catch, or she tells you how you can now buy soparnik, that miraculous delicacy dreamed up by the poor people of the hinterland, by the slice, but it’s not even close to the one my late grandmother baked in her fireplace.

However good those replacement markets might be, however colourful and full of scent, it’s now clear that I miss that passion, that uncertainty whether a kuna will be left over for a comic, and I miss those shouts in dialects which my officially-proscribed accent never picked up.

«Why must they shout so?», I remember she asked when she first realised that in Split, on the market, you can’t buy less than half a kilo, and nobody with any sense even asks.

It’s embarrasing, for goodness’ sake, and they give you a good ticking off, even if you’re the daughter of the President himself.

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Local Flavour And what seemed to her like rudeness was for me the best poem ever, the best song.

While you sing the praises of their greens they praise your youth and good looks, even if it’s clear that you left your youth and good looks somewhere by the kiosk with the hunter’s salami. It’s the same game wherever you go.

Wherever you end up you try to cook sauce so it tastes just the same as that small boy remembers, who knew no greater satisfaction than to arrive home from school, break off a hunk of bread and dip it right into the saucepan before his mother caught him. ....

- «Dad, has anything changed?» asks the emigré son, himself now a father.

- «Almost nothing», says Dad. Almost nothing. Tell the youth of today that there are oranges and oranges, those from the supermarkets and those on the tables at Pazar, and how they are nowhere near the same thing and how they can’t be, even though their mother tells them there’s no difference. To have your own stallholder for eggs, a lady for chard, a butcher who won’t cheat you. A lady at the fish market who’ll give you a barely discernable nod to show which fish is fresh and which isn’t... That’s a matter of survival, of growing up, of evolution. Pazar, the fish market, coffee, newspapers. Confound it, that’s it. There’s no recession, no accounting law, no minister of finance who can take it away. As long as there’s the human race there will be Pazar!

Local Dishes Chock-a-block with all this food and influences from various parts of Dalmatia and Croatia, Split is rich in simple tasty dishes you have never heard of but once you taste them you will never forget. So, how do you go about tasting all this if you don’t have the good fortune of being invited to someone’s house where mama will surprise your taste buds? One option is to go exploring among the many konobas (traditional eateries which used to be wine cellars where you could slice some pršut and cheese or eat salted anchovies after a hard day’s work). You’ll find these kinds of restaurants scattered around the old city and the market.

Another option is to schedule your visit around the many gastronomic events happening all summer around Split, most of them based on a certain dish or ingredient. See our guide to food festivals in the Split region. What sort of dishes should you look out for? It depends on the season.

Local people tend to stick very much to what’s around at a given time of year rather than relying on greenhousegrown produce or imports. So, in the spring, look out for dishes made with artichokes or for young broad beans prepared in a million different ways, for example with lamb, with squid ink… Mmm, it makes us hungry just thinking about it. Also watch out for “divlje zelje”, greens picked in the wild. Summer is a great time for a piece of fresh fish simply grilled and served with chard cooked with potatoes; a black squid ink risotto with a refreshing green salad, or the classic family meal of deep fried sardines, red mullet or anchovies and a tomato and cucumber salad. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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In cooler seasons meat comes more to the fore, often cooked with vegetables in a stew-type dish. Look out for aramabašići a speciality originating in Sinj, a little way inland. These are little soured cabbage parcels containing beef (and sometimes pork), cooked in a broth with smoked dried meats. These, or their cousins sarma, are a must at every special occasion, as is a spit-roast lamb. If you keep out a sharp eye you might come across a pogača hailing from the island of Vis or Hvar, a flattish breadcake containing a mixture of salted anchovies and onion, plus tomato, capers and herbs depending on the version. Or from inland, look out for soparnik, a flatbread stuffed with chard and spring onions, scattered with garlic and almonds and drizzled with olive oil. These are specialities you might find on sale at Pazar market. On a sweeter note, look out for compressed cakes of dried figs (smokvenjak), commonly made at home and truly delicious. A speciality from the island of Hvar is forski medenjak, a biscuit made with olive oil and honey, though you’ll probably have to make a pilgrimage to the Nonica patisserie in Hvar town to find it. And if you are in Trogir, look out for rafiole. These are little halfmoons made from almonds and maraschino liqueur. Legend has it they were invented by a girl named Rafiola who was imprisoned in the Kamerlengo fortress until her love, a Trogir noble, came to rescue her. She baked him these little cakes ‘til the end of her days as a mark of her gratitude.

Soparnik Soparnik is an old-fashioned Dalmatian dish dating back to the time before the Turks invaded the region. It is a simple dish made by filling two layers of fillo dough with swiss chard, onions, parsley, garlic and olive oil.

Traditionally, it was prepared on round wooden plates over a stone hearth on days for fasting, such as Good Friday, Christmas Eve or the Feast of All Saints. Soparnik comes from the former “Peasants’ Republic,” Poljica, which existed in the late Middle Ages, near modernday Omiš, and was prepared to treat guests and friends. Over the years, it has become a symbol of old Poljica. Once a

meal for peasants, it is now a prestigious delicatessen.

Photo by Radmanove Mlinice Archives

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Local Flavour Hrapačuša cake - Postira Tourist Board Archives

Culinary Events 01.06 Sunday - 30.09 Tuesday Kopačina Lamb Festival Every Thursday, starting from around 19:00, you can try about 15 different specialities made from lamb, including lamb’s liver pate, lamb with broad beans and a host of different specialities. Be sure to reserve your table it’s very busy.QKonoba Kopačina, Donji Humac, Brač island.

16.08 Saturday Hrapačuša Night The village of Dol has its very own living legend - a lady named Barica who is proud holder of the title of World Champion in the making of Hrapačuša cake. Some may point out that Hrapačuša is only made on Brač and in particular in Dol and that this is therefore no achievement at all, but we defy anyone to taste the cake of Barica and tell us that she is not among the greats of this planet, or even neighbouring galaxies, in the art of making cake. Her Hrapačuša is a crescendo of nuts, lemon, caramelised sugar and egg yolk, a calorific atom bomb that induces an intense sugar rush and has been named “Dol Viagra” with good reason. Try Barica’s award-winning cake in Konoba Toni or at island gastronomy festival Hrapačuša Night.QDol, Brač island.

06.09 Saturday Iz Solinskog lonca The gastronomic happening “From Solin’s Pot” sees people compete in preparing dishes based on local flour ground at a local watermill - the mlinica. Dishes include home-made pasta in meat sauces, breads and cakes. Carbs galore!QGašpina mlinica , Solin, www. solin-info.com.

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end of september Days of Varenik An unusual ingredient called Varenik is thought to have been made on Brač for 2000 years - it was mentioned during Roman times. It’s made by boiling red wine down to a concentrate, which is then stored in bottles and added to all sorts of foods, sweet and savoury, to impart a unique and rich flavour. During the time of the Varenik festival at the end of September, dishes are prepared showcasing the use of this ingredient, and the island’s restaurants have a range of specials on the menu.

QBrač island.

October Dani bikle i Biklijada This inland town is home to a special dish, bikla, a combination of goats’ milk and young local wine. This is served along with other local specialties like frogs in parsley and snails. All kinds of old crafts and culture are exhibited and homemade produce is sold.QVrgorac, www. tzvrgorac.hr.

Bikla, Vrgorac Tourist Board Archives

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Coffee & Cakes Cafes Aktuell With its super equipped interior, modern design and relaxed atmosphere, this cafe bar is a place not to be missed when visiting Split. Besides offering Lavazza coffee, they also prepare different types of pastries and breakfast throughout summer. Large LCD screens provide the perfect backdrop for World Cup mania!QD-3, Mile Gojsalića 1, tel. (+385-) 095 818 88 88. Open 06:00 - 24:00.

PiA6BXW Galerija Once you are seated pick and choose from a whole range of coffee sorts that go down well with the walnut cakes, strudels, frappes and chocolate fondues on offer. Those pursuing something stronger have numerous fruit cocktails, local/international beers, wines and liquors to keep you jostling!QJ-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PJNGBW Kavana Figa Right from the Voćni trg, in the narrow passage you’ll find this hip bar with comfortably fitted and colourful chairs and benches on the outside which contrasts to its industrially fitted interior. The cool exterior and décor is adjoined by the varied offer of light meals, from classical breakfast and salads to pasta and fish, and all at value for money.

As the day goes by, you will be able to choose one of the cocktails and enjoy this place and its complete offer which is available at any time of the day, until late night.QI-2, Buvinina 1, tel. (+385-21) 27 44 91, linda.vladislavic@gmail. com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. PJ6NGBXW Libar ‘Libar’ in local dialect means ‘a book’ and though this isn’t a library the café interior is chock-full of handmade themed items. Cosy ambiance indoors and terrace views that say WOW. Watch sporting events live, respectable choice of beers and wines at reasonable prices.QI-2, Trg Franje Tuđmana 3, service@caffe-libar.com, www.caffe-libar. com. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. PJA6BXW Lvxor A titular nod to the sixteen sphinxes that once guarded the entrance to the mausoleum (and the one that remains), Kavana Lvxor’s location on the Peristyle is stellar. And the services on offer match the quality of the location. There’s wireless Internet, magazines and daily newspapers in foreign languages and a broad menu that includes normal café fare, plus cocktails, sandwiches and breakfast in the morning. In the warmer months, cushions are places on the steps of the Peristyle so you can lounge around in true imperial style.QJ-2, Kraj Sv.Ivana 11, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 82, lvxor@lvxor.hr, www.lvxor.hr. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PAGBXW Žbirac It is said that this is possibly the best place in Bačvice for a coffee. This elevated Split trendy beach spot has a wonderful terrace and a perfect view of the beach. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Žbirac known in English as the Warty crab, hides during the day and comes out at night to hunt! So, you be the judge!QD-3, Preradovićevo šetalište 1b, akrapante@ gmail.com, www.zbirac.hr. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. PGBXW

Sweet Treats Bobis-Riva A Split institution, Bobis has been providing the city’s citizens with delectable eats since 1950. There are a load of Bobis stores dotted throughout town, but this one has arguably the best location, as it’s right on the Riva. You can match your coffee with an appropriate pastry or choose a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around Marjan.QI-3, Obala hrv.narodnog preporoda 20. Open 06:00 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. PNGB Creme de la Creme You have a sweet tooth and the craving has hit, so why not wander down to one of the newest pastry shops in town.

Fantastic cakes, homemade pastries, and desserts served with coffee, liqueurs and juices. Its minimalistic interior includes some trendy retro details, everything looks simple and refreshing. Located opposite the movie theatre Karaman, they also have a terrace for some outdoor peace and quiet.QI-2, Ilićev prolaz 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 23, www. cremedelacreme.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. PJAG� BXW Tradicija This is the oldest confectionery in town and with grand old age, come grand old recipes. The chocolates, biscuits, cakes and other sweet specialties are all cooked to tradition - just as the name itself!QI-2, Bosanska 2, tel. (+38521) 36 10 70. Open 08:00 - 21:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:30.

Closed Sun. N Summer 2014

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Nightlife The nightlife in Split is booming this time of year with Matejuška the favourite for young people ready for a night out; this is an area on the beachfront where crowds gather, chat and mingle along the stone walls whilst having a drink or two with friends. It’s a typical ritual before hitting the town and venturing out to famous city bars, pubs and nightclubs. Just so you know, the party atmosphere never ends in the streets behind the Pjaca, the Geto or in Bačvice.

Bars Dva Tona Bar Typical pub decor offering the biggest variety of beers and draughts from one side of the palace to the other! Classics such as Guinness, La Chouffe, Duvel and even the hard-tofind Brooklyn Chocolate Stout appear. The old piano gives a special touch, low-key atmosphere, great music with a very retro feel to it.QJ-2, Carrarina poljana 1, tel. (+385-) 091 444 10 50. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. PJ6GBXW Gaga In the shade just behind Loža (the gallery area in the main square - Pjaca) this café has its own square where a daily coffee can be a refreshing treat amongst the sing-song chatter of the interesting local folk.QI-2, Iza Lože 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 82 57. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. PNBXW Ghetto Furry, fluffy seats complemented by a funk and disco soundtrack contribute to a relaxed, if not slightly quirky feel. The murals on the walls are dedicated to birds and bees. Symbolic? You decide.QJ-2, Dosud 10. Open 10:00 - 02:00. PJ6ENBXW

Library Bar Marcvs Marvlvs A beautiful wine and whiskey bar set in one of the city’s most important landmarks, the birthplace of the father of Croatian literature, the 15th century poet Marko Marulić.

It’s located right in front of the City Museum and only a minute away from Peristil. During summer, its offer also includes small tapas meals as well as entertainment theme nights such as tango nights or poetry evenings. Includes a terrace and separate smoking area.QD-3, Papalićeva 4, marvlvs@yahoo.com, www.marcvsmarvlvs.com. Open 09:00 - 01:00. PJBXW Merita & Dino Merita & Dino squeezes a great deal into a small space, with spiral staircases linking an upstairs-downstairs jumble of expertly mis-matched furnishings and bright interior colours. There’s plenty of loungey furniture to slump into, and a popular terrace outside. Serves draught Guinness.QJ-2, Majstora Jurja 4. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P6NBXW Na kantunu Claustrophobic orange-coloured space which a huge Hajduk Split symbol dominating one wall - which will at least fill you with a deep sense of comfort and joy if you’ve picked up any of the local sporting patriotism since your arrival in the city. Na Kantunu’s real advantage however is the old-town location, with outdoor seating in a small square. Serving bottles of Velebitsko pivo (one of the few Croatian ales worth drinking) alongside Czech-brewed Lobkowicz, it’s also an outstanding place for a beer.QJ2, Dominisova 9, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 91. Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00. P6BXW ST Riva Shaken, not stirred! This cocktail bar is primarily located along the city walls and is an ideal place to relax on hot summer nights.

Urban & 4, A Sustipan Night’s Dream Archives

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Nightlife

Its greatest value is the sublime views you have of the Riva and port, one of the better places to chill whilst sipping beverages.QI-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 18, info.striva@gmail.com, www.st-riva.com. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. PJGBW

Clubs Hedonist Exclusivity is the key and this café by day slash nightclub by night has an ultramodern interior with an amazing light show under the stars. Tis a local hot spot and does attract some famous inhabitants. DJ’s play varied music genres so prepare to dance the night away.QE-3, Put Firula bb, tel. (+385-) 098 64 41 04, josip.gama@gmail.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PABXW

Casino Casino Platinum Located within 5* hotel ''Atrium'', very close to city center. Offers live games, slot machines, poker tournaments and sport betting. Free parking inside underground garage, money exchange office, bar lounge.

QD-2, Domovinskog rata 49 a, tel. (+385-21) 274 800, www.casinoplatinum.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00.

PGXW facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Hemingway Nope, your fancy trainers won’t cut it here, darlings. In fact your plimsoles won’t even make it past the door.

This is Split’s most opulent drinking hole (we are told to believe) where bartenders with slick moves (remember Tom Cruise in Cocktail?) make a mean Mai-Tai.QC-2, VIII. Mediteranskih igara 5, tel. (+385-) 099 211 99 93, split@ hemingway.hr, www.hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00. PAGBXW O’Hara Small groups of Split’s young hell-raisers mark the way to their partying Mecca, a beach-side night club with club hits throbbing at maximum volume and potentially hangover-inducing drink specials. If you’re in the mood for a quiet, relaxing weekend night out, look elsewhere.

A lounge and bar area provides temporary escape from the club crush.QE-3, Uvala Zenta 3, info.ohara@gmail. com, www.ohara.hr. Open 08:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 04:00. AGBX Vanilla Match the look of Split’s beautiful people who frequent this open, airy club and don some slick duds before making the fifteen-minute walk from the old town. You’ll find two large bar areas, comfy seating, house and dance tunes on the speakers and a hip decor.QC-2, Mediteranskih igara 21, tel. (+385-) 098 163 62 72, www.vanilla.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 05:00. PAGBX Summer 2014

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Sightseeing Essential Split Diocletian’s Palace (Dioklecijanova palača) A quick look at the resplendent view of the palace from the hills surrounding the city will quickly establish why practically any emperor would be more than happy to locate his palace at the site that Diocletian chose for his retirement home. Construction began in 293 and was completed in ten years and utilized a variety of materials from all around the region, including white stone shipped from the island of Brač to sphinxes transported all the way from Egypt. Diocletian’s palace has become the quintessential “living museum”, as modern shops and citizens reside within the walls of the ancient palace complex.The part of the palace known as “the basement” was built during the reign of Diocletian to support the apartments placed above it and, until 1956, was unexplored and cluttered up with the detritus of thousands of years of history. Now, it’s been cleaned and opened for visitors. Because it mirrors the floor plan of the original imperial living quarters, a visit to the basement can help visitors envision the layout of the palace.

And, because exploring the depths of ancient palaces is difficult work, the steps leading up and out of the northern end of the basement to the Peristyle can be a perfect escape. At one time the central courtyard of the palace, the Peristyle is now one of the central meeting points in town, with people leisurely sipping coffee, surrounded by an array of ancient architectural structures.QI/J-2.

Marjan Peninsula (Marjan) When ready to escape the hustle and bustle of Croatia’s second city, visitors can take a pleasant, ten-minute walk through Veli Varoš up to the wooded heights of the Marjan peninsula, a safe-haven of paved paths (suitable for walking or biking), fragrant forests and beaches. An afternoon of sightseeing, swimming or walking should be started just like the locals would, with a drink at Café Vidilica, which overlooks the port. The peninsula is home to several points of interest, including the remains of a 16th-century Jewish cemetery, hermitages and chapels from the 13th and 14th centuries. Eventually, a set of steps leads up to Telegrin which, at 178m, is the highest point on the peninsula. The islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta can be seen and, on particularly clear days, you can see as far as the island of Vis.QA/B-2/3.

Riva If you wander around asking where the Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda is (literally Quay of the Croatian National Revival), you might be greeted by a few quizzical looks. Instead, just ask for the Riva and someone is sure to point you in the right direction. The Riva is a broad street right on the waterfront that runs the length of the old town and hugs the palace on its south side.

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Inside the Vestibule - Photo by Rick DeMeis

It’s the de facto gathering spot, day and night, for the people of Split to engage in some of the activities that have been honed to a fine art in Croatia: chatting over a cup of coffee and people-watching. Split’s Riva continues westwards and is as picturesque as ever, perfect for a stroll, coffee, or relaxing on the deck chairs.QI-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda.

The Peristyle and The Cathedral of St Domnius (Peristil i Katedrala sv.

Dujma) Eleven of the twelve granite sphinxes that originally guarded the Peristyle have been destroyed by Christians who took exception to Egyptian imagery in their cathedral, but the twelfth remains, an imposing reminder of the original designer of the mausoleum, Diocletian. The former emperor’s tomb has long since disappeared, perhaps re-used in the creation of the Christianized mausoleum. Remnants of Diocletian’s rule do remain, in the form of portraits of the emperor and his wife that can be seen in the dome of the cathedral. More prominently on display are the altars to Domnius and Anastasius, the latter a Christian martyr who was killed during the reign of another enemy of early Christians, Emperor Nero. In grand historical irony, the cathedral was dedicated to one of Diocletian’s victims, the first Bishop of Salona.

After viewing the interior of the cathedral, you can climb the bell tower to get a lovely view of the surrounding area and the nearby port.QJ-2.

Veli Varoš Situated west of the old town, Veli Varoš is a neighbourhood full of winding streets and old apartments that is characteristic of Dalmatia. It’s well worth taking a stroll around this part of the city, if only to catch a glimpse of what daily life is like around Split.QH-2.

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Sightseeing

Museums Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej) Even though it’s situated north of the town centre, Split’s archaeological museum is certainly worth the trip. The museum was founded in 1820, making it the oldest museum in Croatia. The museum’s contents come mainly from central Dalmatia, especially from Salona, with thousands of stone epitaphs from that region. Also featured are ceramics and glass of Greek and Roman origin, along with hundreds of other objects made from bone, metal and glass from various historical periods including prehistoric, pre-Christian, Greek and Medieval.QC-2, Zrinsko - Frankopanska 25, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 40, info@armus. hr, www.mdc.hr/split-arheoloski. Open 09:00 - 14:00, 16:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Croatian Maritime Museum (Hrvatski pomorski muzej) Spend all your time cocooned in the old town and you’ll miss out on many of Split’s more quirky delights, of which the maritime museum is undoubtedly one. It’s located inside the Gripe fortress, built by the Venetians in the sixteenth century to keep the Ottomans at bay, and subsequently used as a barracks by the Austrian Empire. Contents include a simple but compelling collection of model ships through the ages, ranging from Venetian galleys to twentieth-century cruise liners. Also lying around are all manner of nautical equipment, lighthouse lanterns and naval uniforms. Most striking exhibit is the room devoted to the ground-breaking torpedoes developed by the Whitehead-Lupis workshop in nineteenth-century Rijeka. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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To finish off, you can look around an outdoor display of beached boats while serenaded by shrieking peacocks - a colony of which roams free on the east side of the fortress.

QK-2, Glagoljaška 18 (Gripe Fortress), tel. (+385-21) 34 73 46, hpms@hpms.hr, www.hpms.hr. Open 09:30 - 19:30, Sun open by prior arrangement. September October Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00, Sun open by prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Ethnographic Museum Split (Etnografski muzej Split) If you’re into making an in-depth examination of Croatia’s cultural tradition, particularly that of the Dalmatian Coast, then you’re in luck. Split’s Ethnographic Museum was founded in 1910 and features a wide range of traditional Dalmatian embroidery and clothing, plus exhibits detailing the various trades, like knitting, woodcarving and pottery, that have been practised in the region over the years.

QJ-3, Severova 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 61, etnografskimuzej-st@st.t-com.hr, www.etnografski-muzej-split. hr. Open 09:30 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. September 16 - May 31 Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 10 - 15kn.

Museum of Croatian Archeological Monuments (Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških spomenika) Founded in 1893 to collect and exhibit medieval Croatian archaeological pieces of interest, the Museum of Croatian Archaeological Monuments has survived a turbulent history that has seen the museum’s site change frequently, sometimes due to the growing size of the collection and sometimes due to the impending threat of war.

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A trip to the museum’s current location, opened in 1976, will give you the chance to view part of the museum’s 3,000-piece collection of sculpture, tools, weapons and other items spanning several periods, with an emphasis on the Medieval.QA-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 18, tel. (+385-21) 32 39 01/(+385-21) 32 39 05, muzej@mhassplit.hr, www.mhas-split.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

Split City Museum (Muzej grada Splita) The Papalić family settled in Split in the early 14th century and, while in the process of becoming one of the city’s most respected families, built a small palace to serve as their family’s home. Today, the palace plays host to the City Museum of Split, the origins of which can be traced back to Dmine Papalić and his collection of sculptures and monuments taken from nearby Salona. The collection has grown in subsequent years to include various paintings and artworks, along with fragments of sculptures, monuments and statues that were once parts of buildings in Split. Along with the artwork on display, there are numerous documents, photographs, maps and manuscripts that help tell the historical story of Split.QJ-2, Papalićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 71/(+385-21) 36 01 72, muzej-grada-st@ st.htnet.hr, www.mgst.net. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.

Galleries Emanuel Vidović Gallery (Galerija Emanuel Vidović) Just round the corner from the Peristyle, this beautifully-restored Romanesque house devotes its three storeys to the career of local painter Emanuel Vidović (1872-1953). Croatia’s leading post-impressionist, Vidović was consumed by a life-long fascination with Adriatic townscapes, with Split, Trogir and the Italian town of Chioggia providing most of his subject matter. Alongside a good cross-section of Vidović’s uniquely hazy canvases, there is a fascinating recreation of the artist’s former studio - including dolls, curios and an extraordinary collection of wooden sculptures by self-taught artist Petar Smajić. A Croatian-language film about Vidović’s life can be seen on the top floor - worth watching if only because of the groovy, sixties-style plastic seats you get to sit in.QJ-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene bb, tel. (+385-21) 36 01 55/(+385-21) 36 01 65, muzej-grada-st@ st.htnet.hr, www.mgst.net. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 10 - 20kn.

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Meštrović Gallery and the Crikvine Kaštilac Housed in an imposing marble villa planned by the artist himself, the Ivan Meštrović Gallery does a fine job of telling the story of a sculptor who went from humble beginnings as a stonecutter’s apprentice to an exalted position in the international art scene. Meštrović’s influences ranged from modernism to folk art and ancient Greek sculpture, producing an instantly recognizable individual style. The display includes an impressive selection of his large-scale works, alongside religiously-inspired works and intimate portraits of family members. Meštrović was also famous for the huge works he produced for public spaces, most notably the statue of Grgur Ninski in Split (see “Landmarks”). After teaching in Zagreb Meštrović emigrated to the U.S, becoming a professor first at Syracuse University then at Notre Dame. He died in South Bend, Indiana in 1962.A five-minute walk further west along the same road is the Meštrović’s Crikvine - Kaštilac, a 16th-century summer house bought by Meštrović in 1939 and converted into a chapel. Inside lies what is arguably the artist’s most stunning creation, a cycle of 28 wooden reliefs based on the life of Christ. The result of 35 years’ work, the cycle incorporates motifs from ancient, medieval and modern art, combined to produce an emotionally powerful piece of spiritual sculpture.QB-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46/39, tel. (+385-21) 34 08 00, mim@mestrovic.hr, www.mestrovic.hr. May - September 30 Open Tue Sun 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and hoildays. October - April 30 Open Tue - Sat 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.

Closed Mon and holidays. Admission 15kn Children, 30kn Adults, 50kn Family.

Split Art Gallery (Galerija umjetnina) Recently re-opened in its brand-new home (a restored former hospital), Split’s main art gallery boasts one of the Adriatic’s most absorbing collections. The Renaissance is represented by an altarpiece attributed to Paolo Veneziano and an Allegory of Melancholy by Albrecht Dürer; while the overview of nineteenth- and twentieth-century Croatian art ropes in most of the key figures, Vlaho Bukovac and Emanuel Vidović included.

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Sightseeing Contemporary paintings by Nina Ivančić and photographs

by Ana Opalić will provide plenty of material for the chinstrokers to ponder over.QJ-2, Ulica kralja Tomislava 15, tel. (+385-21) 35 01 12, galerija-umjetnina@galum.hr, www.galum.hr. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Mon 11:00 - 16:00, Sat 11:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10 - 20kn.

The Split Cathedral Treasury (Riznica splitske katedrale) The treasury holds a collection of golden artifacts and church garments from the Romanesque, gothic and baroque period. Some of the highlights include the pyx from 1522, Croatia’s oldest manuscript Evangelistar from the 8th century, the Supetar katular from the 9th century and Historia Salonitana by Toma Arhiđakon from the 13th century.

QJ-2, Kraj Sv. Duje 5.

Landmarks Croatian National Theatre (Hrvatsko narodno kazalište) The story of Croatia’s National Theatre in Split is long and complicated but begins on December 26, 1859, right near the beginning of a period of autonomy in the city. Antonio Bajamonti was, during a brief respite from Venetian and Austro-Hungarian control, the city’s leader and a principal investor in the theatre that ultimately bore his name. Sadly, that theatre was almost completely destroyed in a fire in 1881 and plans to re-build on the original site were never realised. The theatre was relocated to its present location on (street) and has resided there since.QI-1, Trg Gaje Bulata 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 49 99/(+385-21) 30 69 08, hnksplit@hnk-split.hr, www.hnk-split.hr.

Churches Saint Dominic’s Church and Monastery (Crkva i Samostan sv. Dominika) Across from the Silver Gate of the Diocletian Palace is Saint Dominic’s Church. First mentioned in the 13th century, it acquired its current structure in 1682 and was widened at the beginning of the 19th century. See the preserved baroque altars, the painting of the ‘Miracle in Suriano’ by Jacopo Palma Jr and the ‘Vision in the Temple’, as well as the gothic crucifix. Mass: 07:00, 08:00, 18:30, Sunday 07:00, 08:00, 09:00, 10:00, 11:00 and 18:30.QJ-2/3, Hrvojeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 34 71, samostan.split@dominikanci.hr.

Open 06:30 - 12:00, 18:00 - 19:30.

The Franciscan Church and Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Franjevačka crkva i samostan Uznesenja Blažene Djevice Marije) On the northern side of the Split peninsula along the shallow Kaštela Bay, you’ll find the Franciscan Monastery on Poljud. The name Poljud derives from the Latin word swamp (Paludes) since until recently, this area was covered with water. On this very site, Archbishop Paul built the Church of the Holy Mary of Poljud (St. Maria de Palude).

The Franciscan church and monastery is the most valuable gothic-renaissance complex in Split. The church and monastery have a nice collection of silver liturgical artifacts.

The oldest object is a gothic drawer for incense from the 15th century and a gothic-renaissance crucifix from the 16th century. The Museum also stows precious valuables from the monastery library such as the Bull by Pope Callistus III in 1457 that gave redemption to those who, on the Virgin’s feast days and on the first Sundays of the month, visited the Poljud sanctuary and gave donations for its construction. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sat 07:00, Sun 09:00, 10:00, 11:30 and 19:00.QC-1, Poljudsko šetalište 2, tel. (+385-21) 38 13 77, zupa@samostan-poljud.com, www. samostan-poljud.com. Open by prior arrangement.

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Meštrović Gallery, Photo by Josipa Bilić

Grgur Ninski In 926, the representatives of Croatian churches were called together by Pope Ivan X in order to conduct a reform of the then current church system. The Great Assembly took place in Split and, in accordance with the wishes of Pope Ivan X, Slavic languages were outlawed in the Church, with the only accepted language for Mass and official Church business being Latin. Naturally, this started a firestorm of debate, with churches splitting into two factions. In the middle of this debate and fighting fervently on the side of Old Slavic language was Grgur Ninski, also known as Gregory of Nin. In the midst of a tumultous series of political and Church intrigues, he became the champion of the cause and today is recognised as a Croatian national hero and one of the fathers of Croatian language. You can see the completely impressive Grgur Ninski statue, created by another Croatian hero, Ivan Meštrović, outside the north gate of the palace (and you can rub his shiny big toe for good luck).QJ-2.

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Sightseeing Prokurative (Trg Republike) Trg Republike (Republic Square) is a large, open square surrounded on three sides by a collection of elaborate neoRenaissance buildings known as the Prokurative. On the southern side, the square opens up to a lovely view of the harbour. Construction of the Prokurative started during the latter half of the 19th century under the supervision of General Marmont, with the buildings inspired largely by the architecture of the same period in Venice. While relatively unoccupied in the cooler months, the square comes alive in the summer with concerts and cultural events, the most popular being the Entertainment Musical Festival of Split.QI-2, Trg Republike.

One day escape cruises The perfect package for tourists who are craving to see the best of the Adriatic Sea in one day! The highly recommended boat route encompasses Split - the Blue Cave - the Green Cave - Budikovac - Palmižana - Hvar Split. One boat departs daily between May 10 until October 10 from the Split waterfront, leaving at 08:30am.

On the way to the island of Biševo dolphins often swim alongside the boat and if you happen to be lucky, have your camera ready! Once on the island, guests can visit and swim in the Blue Cave or Blue Grotto with its iridescent blue reflections, whilst Budikovac is a little (islet) near the island of Vis and it is there that visitors can find a sandy cove for swimming. Near to this is the island of Ravnik with its Green Cave, approximately 50 meters long with a 7 meter high entrance so that boats can enter. And just when you thought that this was all a dream, then comes Palmižana, a little village on the Pakleni islands where there are various specific restaurants and bars and here guests can use their free time for lunch and a swim. This is followed by a visit to the sunniest Croatian island of Hvar, upon returning to Split. The price is 115 Euros per person which includes: the crew, fuel, tickets to the Blue Cave, water and soft drinks on board, snorkelling gear (diving equipment), safety gear, and insurance. It should be emphasised that this is a long (100 nautical miles) trip and that the boat is large (13 meters) and equipped with both indoor and outdoor areas for passengers, inclduing toilet facilities which is very important as there is no toilet anywhere else, except in Palmižana. The return to Split is at around 19:00 - 19:30pm. See the best that Croatia and Dalmatia have to offer in this glorious day trip, sure to be filled with picturesque memories.

Info: Water Express daily cruises, tel.(+385-) 099 209 30 64, info@waterexpresstours.com, www. waterexpresstours.com.

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Photo by Dalmatia Explorer - Adventure Eco Tours

Dalmatian Zagora

When people think of Dalmatia they usually think of the Adriatic coast, complete with its beaches, islands and swaying palm trees. What is often forgotten is that Dalmatia also has a huge tract of inland territory, much of which is just as exotic and just as interesting as the seaside but much less visited, making it more than ripe for discovery.

Much of inland Dalmatia is covered by the label Dalmatian Zagora (Dalmatinska Zagora); Zagora literally means ‘behind the hills’, a reference to the mountains that run along a good deal of the coast. Indeed much of the Zagora is a mountainous, arid place, known for the scrub-covered hills and rocky wastes known as kamenjar (‘stone fields’) - but also for its neat towns of stone houses and intensively cultivated islands of agriculture.

The Zagora may be a blind spot as far as tourists are concerned but it has never been so to the Dalmatians themselves, who have a high regard for its resourceful, hard-working inhabitants. The inhabitants of the Zagora are frequently termed ‘vlaji’ by their coastal neighbours 36 Split In Your Pocket

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(a mocking reference to the Vlachs, the semi-nomadic sheep-rearers who roamed the Balkan interior in centuries past), although the term conveys a positive sense of hardy self-reliance as well as country-bumpkin simplicity. The populations of the coastal towns have always been fed by immigration from the interior, and settlements such as Zadar, Šibenik and Split have always faced two ways, serving as seafaring Mediterranean cities as well as ‘capitals’ of their extensive hinterland.Much of the Zagora’s haunting beauty comes from its extensive areas of arid, maquis-covered plateau. However it’s also an area of much geological drama, with canyons and waterfalls around the Krka National Park and the Cetina Gorge, deep mysterious lakes at Imotski, and tortured limestone features almost everywhere.

Roman remains at Burnum, and medieval fortress at Drniš, Knin and Sinj, provide a sense of historical depth. The gastronomy of the Zagora is also distinctive, placing more emphasis on sheep, cattle and freshwater fish than the coastal parts of Dalmatia. The practice of roasting meats in a lidded metal vessel covered in glowing embers is a Zagora speciality, and is found almost everywhere inland. You also come across numerous regional specialities: freshwater fish inland from Omiš, slow-cooked veal risottos around Skradin, delicious home-cured pršut ham from Drniš, and frogs’ legs from Trilj. As far as local drink is concerned, Bibich, with vineyards in the hills above Skradin, produces boutique wines that are highly sought-after. There’s also a growing wine industry around Imotski, whose blended reds and indigenous Kujundžuša whites are increasingly highly rated - indeed Imotski winemaker Grabovac has opened a wine bar in the coastal resort of Makarska to promote the local tipple.

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Dalmatian Zagora What follows is our list of ten places you should visit in order to get an authentic flavour of the Dalmatian Zagora.

Ten must-visit places Skradin Located on the shores of Prokljansko Lake, just inland from Šibenik, Skradin is both the gateway to the Krka National Park and an attraction in itself - a typical Mediterranean town made up of stone-paved streets and arched alleyways. There’s a lakeside marine full of yachts, and a handful of superb restaurants serving traditional Skradin cuisine.Qwww.skradin.hr.

Photo by Boris Filipović Grčić - Sinj Tourist Board

Drniš A pleasant market town midway between Šibenik and Knin, Drniš is famous for its crag-hugging medieval fortress, and the nearby village of Otavice, site of the Chapel of the Holy Redeemer built by sculptor Ivan Meštrović to serve as his family burial chapel.Qwww.tz-drnis.hr.

Knin A strategic railway-junction town lying in a bowl between mountains, Knin is famous for the huge fortress, built in the time of Croatian King Zvonimir, that hovers above town from its suitably dramatic rock. With much of its walls intact, it’s an extensive site, and comes with fantastic views of the surrounding Zagora landscape.Qwww. tz-knin.hr.

Photo by Ilija Veselica - Sinj Tourist Board

Krka National Park With wooden walkways leading past lakes and waterfalls, and boat trips to monastic islands and haunting canyons, Krka National Park is quite simply breathtaking, and can easily fill well over a day of holiday time - especially if you have your own transport, in which case you can visit the Roman ruins of Burnum and the wild, little-visited, northeastern reaches of the park.Qwww.npkrka.hr.

Vrlika Situated on the Vrličko polje plateau 66km inland from Split, Vrlika is a typical Zagora market town sprawling around the base of a fortress-capped hill. Vrlika is famous above all for the Vrličko kolo, an energetic circle dance that’s considered to be one of Croatia’s natural cultural treasures and features on the repertoire of many a folklore group. The dance also features in the Gotovac/Begović opera “Ero the Joker”, part of which is set beside the Vrlika Fountain or Vrlička Česma, located in the town park.

The pre-Romanesque Church of Holy Salvation, one of the most iconic early-medieval buildings in the whole country, is in the village of Cetina, 8km northwest of Vrlika.

Qwww.visitvrlika.com.

Photo by Dalmatia Explorer - Adventure Eco Tours Photo by Dusina Ante Barbir - Vrgorac Tourist Board

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Dalmatian Zagora

Vrgorac Birthplace of the famously bohemian Croatian poet Tin Ujević (1891-1955), Vrgorac is another small town that sits beneath a medieval fort. The place is famous for the number of surviving towers built by wealthy families and military captains (Vrgorac was on the border between the Venetian and Ottoman Empires) to serve as both living space and fortified refuge. The nearby village of Kokorići, full of traditional stone houses and dry stone walls, is being developed as an ethno-village complete with accommodation, traditional inn and a display of handicrafts.

Qwww.tzvrgorac.hr.

Zagvozd Nestling on the sleepy side of Mount Biokovo, the massif that rises just inland from the Makarska Riviera, Zagvozd is home to one of the oddest but longest-running of Croatia’s cultural festivals, Actors in Zagvozd (Glumci u Zagvozdu; July-August; www.glumciuzagvozdu.hr), when the cream of the country’s thespian talent converges on this small country town to perform plays and give recitals, often in the open-air, and frequently to huge audiences.

Drinking and feasting usually follows; Zagvozd is well worth a visit during the festival whether you’re following the plot or not.

Photo by Dalmatia Explorer - Adventure Eco Tours

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Dalmatian Zagora Sinj A handsome old town lying half an hour’s drive inland from Split, Sinj is home to a famously alluring, miracleworking icon of the Virgin that hangs to the left of the main altar in the main parish church. There’s also an old fortress that’s well worth visiting on the hill above. On the first Sunday of every August crowds from all over Dalmatia descend on Sinj to witness the Alka, an age-old tournament in which horsemen gallop downhill with lances in their hands, hoping to spear a ring that hangs above the end of the course. The riders wear traditional costume, and the whole occasion is one of festive pageant.Qwww. visitsinj.com.

The Cetina Gorge Coastal Omiš is the place to take boat trips into the lower reaches of the Cetina Gorge, where riverside restaurants serve trout and other local delicacies. Travel agents in Omiš also organize rafting trips on the higher, white-water sections of the Cetina. If you have a car, head for the inland town of Zadvarje, where a lookout point above the upper parts of the gorge offers dramatic views of waterfalls.

Qwww.tz-omis.hr.

Imotski If there is one place in the Zagora you absolutely must visit then it’s Imotski, an old Venetian town on the Hercegovinian border that is renowned for the two natural wonders on the edge of town, the Blue Lake (Modro jezero) and the

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Red Lake (Crveno jezero). Both of them are dramatically deep depressions formed by the collapse of limestone caves, and filled with water - the level of which rises and falls depending on seepage and seasonal conditions. Extraordinarily beautiful in real life, but difficult to convey in two dimensions, the Imotski lakes are really something you have to go and see yourself.Qwww.tz-imotski.hr.

Ethno village Zagora Stella Croatica This estate is nature’s gift to what the Dalmatian hinterland can offer. The entire village is built from old stone and comprises of seven autochthonous stone houses surrounded by orchards, gardens and olive groves. The owners pride themselves on the production of local foods where guests are taken on tours, shown how wine is made, flour milled, and almost everything is produced onsite. Cooking workshops in French and English are organised on request, there is wine tasting, smoked salami, dried figs, olive oil, tea and much more to devour. From the wine cellar to the mulberry tree, this is definitely a must see for those who appreciate the finer things in food produce, set amidst majestic surroundings. Info: Mihovilovići 21a, Klis, tel. (+385-21) 21 02 50, info@stella-croatica.hr, www. stella-croatica.hr.

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Makarska Riviera Leaving Split and heading south in the summertime is like leaving a buzzing hive of culture and heading for a great long stretch of pure hedonism.If you take the scenic route, the coast road hugs white pebble beaches lapped by alluring turquoise waters, attracting sun-worshippers like bees to sugar water. You’ll pass through Omiš, once the stronghold of renowned pirates, a delightful old town where the River Cetina plunges through a spectacular canyon into the sea.Travelling south, you pass a string of villages, some old, some new, all today magnets for tourists. Finally, at Brela a straight stretch of coastline starts, 53km long, under the looming hulk of the Biokovo mountains.

Baška Voda Tourist Board Archives

This is the Makarska Riviera, and this is where you’ll find some of the most photographed, most famous and most prized beach resorts on the Adriatic.

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This coastline basks on average in 2750 hours of sunshine per year. The sea is incredibly clear and inviting, with an average year-round temperature of 20˚C reaching summertime peaks of 23-27˚C.Apart from the sea and the sun, here you can enjoy healthy and appetising Mediterranean food such as fish and seafood, chard, tomatoes and olive oil.

In high summer you can enjoy the luxury of ripe figs fresh from the tree; at other times sweets and liqueurs made with carob, grape, citrus fruits and cherries. And of course, there’s plenty of local wine.Most resorts of the Makarska Riviera are not particularly old, although archaeological finds testify to life here since the Neolithic period. The coast spent long centuries under threat of invasion from seafaring invaders, so settlers built their village on high ground under the protective shoulders of the mountains.After a strong earthquake in 1962 reduced many of these ancient homes to rubble, the villagers descended to start a new life beside the sparkling waters of the sea. The building of hotels started in a big way, and this became one of the most popular and attractive spots for holidaymakers in Europe.

In recent times the realisation has dawned as to what was lost when those villages were abandoned: they are in fact a treasure trove of folk culture. All in stone and in spectacular mountain settings, they have great architectural and ethnological value. The village way of life was synonymous with music and dance, textiles and crafts - not to mention agriculture and food. A number of traditional konobe (taverns) are now open offering great hospitality and authentic Dalmatian cuisine.As well as the villages in the immediate vicinity of the resorts in this guide, from Makarska it’s an easy ride to some larger places in the Dalmatian hinterland such as Zagvozd, Imotski (with its Red and Blue Lakes) and Vrgorac, famous for its seven towers built during the Ottoman wars, as well as the well-preserved historical village of Kokorići.

Take your pick. Tour the coast and find your perfect slice of heaven: a rocky cove or a stretch of perfect shingle.

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Makarska Riviera Take a trip inland and discover the age-old culture of the region. Take a hike to the highest peak of Biokovo and see Brač and Hvar islands lying peacefully at your feet. Hire a bike or indulge in a wealth of watersports. Summertime calls!

Baška Voda Baška Voda is one of the busiest resort on the Makarska Riviera. With a fair selection of shops, bars and restaurants, in summer it has the atmosphere of a lively little town.With plenty of reasonably-priced accommodation in hotels, campsites and private apartments, Baška Voda is popular with young people and families with children.

There’s plenty to do, from sports of all kinds to beach bars that transform into night clubs, and no shortage of entertainment laid on.Baška Voda’s ancient core, known as Gradina, lies on a mound just uphill from the waterfront.

The names on ancient gravestones testify that the site has been inhabited since Illyrian times, about 4 centuries BC. The Greeks traded here and the Romans settled here – the latter named the town Aronia.Fortifications were built in the Middle Ages when this coastline was constantly invaded: there are sections of the bastions still standing today.

This is the site of important archaeological finds such as amphorae, coins, jewellery and glass, which you can see in the town museum. There’s also a museum of shells – the Malacological Museum.The inhabitants of Baška Voda once made their living by fishing, as well as farming the fields of nearby Baško Polje, where today there’s a large camp site. However, there are still plenty of vineyards around so you can buy local wine direct from the barrel – just bring your own container!When Slav tribes sacked the coast in the 7th century, Aronia was destroyed. Life retreated into the mountainside villages of Bast and Topići – themselves largely depopulated since the 1962 quake.

Nowadays, the architectural and cultural value of these villages has been recognised: Topići has been proclaimed in its entirety a protected heritage site and Bast offers a number of picturesque places to stay. Both will charm you with their folk architecture and delightful scenery, and both can tempt you with some authentic Dalmatian cuisine in oldfashioned taverns. They’re also ideal points to start a hike to the Sveti Ilija peak (1642m). A less demanding walk is the 6km coastal path that leads through the delightful little resorts of Promajna, Bratuš and Krvavica.

Baška Voda Tourist Board Obala sv. Nikole 31, tel. (+385-21) 62 07 13, info@baskavoda.hr, www.baskavoda.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00. October Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Brela A huddle of pine trees crouches on a boulder tantalisingly close to the shore. The bulk of the rock shows to startling effect exactly how pure these waters are. The urge to jump in and enjoy them is irresistible.This rock is the famous motif of the resort of Brela. It stands for the reasons why we love this coast: clean, deep waters great for swimming; azure seas and skies, the restorative scent and welcome shade of the pine forests. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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The beaches here have won numerous international accolades.Thanks to 6km of wonderful white pebble beaches with fabulous views, the ancient hillside settlement of Brela developed into a handsome resort. Beautiful beachside homes line the long promenade, and a handful of good hotels are hidden in thick pine woods. Steep paths head up the mountainside towards the older parts of the settlement.A local society is dedicated to preserving and showcasing the culture of old Brela: it’s well worth taking a trip up the mountain to Gornja Brela and popping into their visitor centre where you can find out about the old churches, chapels and archaeological treasures dotted around.Gornja Brela is also an excellent starting point for exploring the Biokovo Nature Park with its karst landscapes, endemic species, incredible views and adventure sports challenges. You’ll find maps and information at the information centre that’s also located there.

Brela Tourist Board Trg Alojzija Stepinca b.b., tel. (+385-21) 61 84 55, info@brela.hr, www.brela.hr.

Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Drvenik 29 km south of Makarska is a deep semi-circular bay with the village of Drvenik clustered at its head. The shore is dotted with coves and sandy bays. It’s peaceful, friendly and the scenery is gorgeous – it’s a great place for a peaceful holiday (and has free wifi internet too!). From here you can also hop on a ferry to Hvar island – it’s best if you have some wheels so you can explore. Drvenik is overlooked by a hilltop fort and the 15th century church of St George in the old hillside settlement.

Drvenik Tourist Board Donja Vala 241, tel. (+385-21) 62 82 00, info@drvenik.hr, www.drvenik.hr.

Photo by Ivana Stanešić

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Makarska Riviera Gradac When we arrive at Gradac, 44 km south of Makarska, we’ve come to the southern tip of the Makarska Riviera. Again, several small villages make up the Gradac district: as well as Gradac itself there’s Drvenik (above), Brist, Podaca and Zaostrog. Each is a small, friendly, quiet and laid-back resort in itself and there are plenty of delightful beaches to choose from. Again, the older culture of these places lies in the hillside settlements. There, as well as prehistoric mounds you’ll find a 16th century defensive tower in Čista and the old chapel of St Pascal on Plana hill. A point of significant interest in Zaostrog is the 16th century monastery of St Mary. The monk and poet Andrija Kačić Miosić lived and worked here, and is buried here. He wrote a very popular book of folk verse which both served as a historical document and helped develop the modern Croatian language.

Gradac Tourist Board, gradac@gradac.hr, www.gradac.hr.

Gradac Tourist Information Centre Trg Soline 11, tel. (+385-21) 69 73 75. Open 08:00 - 22:30.

Makarska As you can guess from its name, the fine old town of Makarska is the administrative and cultural heart of the Makarska Riviera. Harmonious stone buildings cluster around a busy waterfront lined with cafés and restaurants. Sailors and fishermen potter about their business; tourists stroll lazily in the heat. The whole scene is framed by the formidable Biokovo mountains above.There’s a luminous quality to the light thanks to the sunshine reflecting from the white stone of the cliffs, the houses, the flagstones and the clear azure sea.

Arriving on the Makarska Riviera The closest airport to Makarska is Split, 87km away. The airport is served by domestic and international scheduled flights, as well as charters during summer. For timetable information, see www.split-airport.hr. To get to Makarska you’ll need to take a bus or hire a car. For more information about travelling to and from Split, see page Arriving & Transport in Split.

By car: if you take the A1 motorway , take the Šestanovac exit. A toll is payable, costs 14kn in one direction for a car from Split, 171kn from Zagreb. From Split, there is also the Adriatic highway. Take a detour inland to avoid bottlenecks at Omiš if you’re travelling at the weekend during peak season.

By coach: there are regular coaches from Zagreb, Split and Dubrovnik to Makarska, as well as from Mostar (Bosnia and Herzegovina), Ulcinj (Montenegro) and Belgrade (Serbia). See www.autobusni-kolodvor.com.

By train: Makarska is not served by the railway network.

Your best bet is to travel to Split or Ploče, then transfer by bus. Rail timetable information: www.hznet.hr.

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Makarska Tourist Board Archives

With the coastline fringed by white shingle beaches and swept by refreshing breezes, it’s not hard to see why tourists started to arrive at the turn of the 20th century.

The first hotel was built in 1914, and many more in the period following the Second World War. Sometimes large but still pleasant, the hotels were built amid the pine forests, preserving the beauty of the natural landscape and the character of the town. The riviera started to attract a healthy slice of the tourists arriving to these lands for their holidays.Today in high summer the beaches and hotels are packed to capacity, and the nights are alive with people enjoying the balmy air and buzzing around the restaurants, bars and clubs. But escapists can still find tranquil corners and experiences off the mass tourist radar.

By boat: you can get to Makarska from Sumartin on Brač island, or to Drvenik further south from Sućuraj on Hvar island. For information see www.jadrolinija.hr.

Drvenik and Makarska Ferry Ports From Makarska, you can travel to Sumartin on the island of Brač, while to get to Hvar island (Sućuraj) you need to travel south to Drvenik. For taxi transfers to and from the ferry ports, check out www.connecto-taxi.com.

Jadrolinija Ticket Kiosk On the main Makarska waterfront (Riva), sells ferry tickets.QObala kralja Tomislava 15, Makarska, tel. (+38521) 67 95 15. They open one hour before the ferry departures.

Main Bus Station (Autobusni kolodvor Makarska) There is one desk for information and tickets, open daily 05:00 – 22:30. The manned left luggage facility (no lockers) has the same working hours as the ticket office, price 5kn per day per item.QAnte Starčevića 30, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 33.

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Makarska Riviera There is much more to Makarska than sun, sea and fun.

The city’s roots reach back to the 4th century BC, when it is thought to have been used as a trading post by the Cretans. The Illyrians were the first tribes to truly leave their mark here, naming the settlement Muccurum. The Romans first wrested control over these lands in 228 AD. The Ostrogoths chased out the Romans in 548, and the Slavs settled here in the 7th century. They made Muccurum (now called Mokra) the centre of their principality, which was famous for its invincible pirates. Then followed long centuries when the Turks, the Venetians, the French and the Austro-Hungarians battled for dominion over the territory. Each left their mark, resulting in the pleasing mix of historic buildings you see today.Perhaps the most important historic building in the town is the Franciscan monastery, five centuries old. It has a Malacological Museum (or Museum of Shells, it has some spectacular specimens), a picture gallery and a library. The Institute of the Mountains and Sea is also based there. The town’s main square, Kačićev trg, has the Church of St Mark, an art gallery, library and music school. On the waterfront you’ll find the town museum and the Church of St Philip. The church of St Peter resides on a green headland in a delightful park. Our What to See pages tell you more about the sights.What’s more, it’s well worth exploring the mountainside villages such as Baškovići, Kotišina, Makar, Puharići and Veliko Brdo. This is where the local people sheltered for centuries from invaders approaching from the sea. You’ll come across fortresses, chapels, stone shelters used by shepherds, terraces and even a botanical garden at Kotišina. It was founded by Father Jure Radić, the Franciscan monk from Makarska who also founded the Museum of Shells. Father Radić also created a nature trail on Biokovo which is just one option for a spectacular hike.Although largely depopulated following a strong earthquake in 1962, in recent years efforts have been made to renovate and revive the original customs and culture of the upland villages.

With amazing views over the coast and islands, these are wonderful places to enjoy some peaceful moments and unique cultural experiences.

Makarska Tourist Board Obala kralja Tomislava 16, tel. (+385-21) 61 20 02, tzg-makarska@st.t-com.hr, www.makarska-info.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Podgora Clustered at the foot of a green slope backed by dramatic peaks, it’s not hard to see how Podgora got its name, which means under the mountain.With a long history as a fishing village and a tourist tradition dating back to the 1920s, Podgora is a sleepy place of 1,500 souls which swells more than fivefold in the summer – it’s second only to Makarska when it comes to tourist numbers. It’s not hard to see why: the combination of white shingle, green pine and rocky grey mountain are a tourist’s holy trinity.This is a laid-back resort enlivened by almost nightly performances from mid-June to the end of August: classical music, heart-stirring Dalmatian klapa groups, rock and folk dance performances bring drama and culture to warm evenings.As elsewhere, Podgora’s inhabitants for centuries relied on the hinterland for protection and sustenance. The attractive old inland settlement of Gornja Podgora is worth looking round and serves as an entrance point to the Biokovo Nature Park.Following the coast road towards Dubrovnik, the following places also fall within the Podgora district: Drašnice – a tiny place, the 2001 census found some 300 souls here. There’s a choice of pebbly coves, and with a little effort you can find some quiet spots. In one of the coves there’s a cave named Medvidina where a local fisherman reported seeing a Mediterranean Monk Seal – a critically endangered species.

Igrane – barely larger with 400 inhabitants, this pleasant little place clings to the foot of the hills and has a lovely long sand and shingle beach. One sight of interest is the Zalina kula tower built in the War of Candia between the Venetians and the Turks.

GallerY The Antun Gojak Town Gallery (Gradska galerija Antuna Gojaka) The Gallery started life thanks to a donation in 1988

by Marin Gojak of 333 paintings and drawings by his brother Antun (1907 - 1986). And so the works of “Makarska’s Van Gogh”, full of colour and meditations on nature and life itself, came to form the nucleus of Makarska’s first town gallery in the building of the former grammar school. Slowly, new works by other artists are being added to the collection, and with around 12 exhibitions every year, the Gallery is today an essential component of Makarska’s cultural life.QUlica don Mihovila Pavlinovića 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 21 98, galerija.agojak@makarska.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 19:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Admission free. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Makarska Riviera There’s a picturesque waterfront and the olive oil and fishing industries are alive and kicking. Živogošće – Now we’re 20 km away from Split, heading south. Živogošće is a resort made up of a string of five tiny hamlets: Strnj, Porat, Mala Duba, Blato and Murava. Newer homes and a couple of hotels lie alongside the water; the older settlements are on the upper side of the coast road.

Podgora Tourist Board Andrije Kačića Miošića 2, tel. (+385-21) 67 89 42, tz-podgora@st.t-com.hr, www.tzpodgora.hr. Open 07:30 - 20:30, Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

Tučepi A segment of coastline perfectly shaped for summertime enjoyment, Tučepi boasts the longest beach on the Makarska Riviera – a 4km stretch of smooth pebbles enabling easy access into the dazzling blue water.Tučepi shares a similar history to many resorts on the riviera – the Illyrians, Greeks and Romans were here; after the Romans left, the population lived in constant fear of invasion. You’ll find a treasury of history and folk architecture and culture in the hillside villages: defensive towers and secret caves where the locals hid from the Ottoman armies; mediaeval chapels and churches, and rural stone buildings.In the more peaceful 18th century, wealthy locals started to build fine villas along the seashore. The best-preserved example with a wonderful courtyard is today a good hotel, Hotel Kaštelet. Another villa in 1911 became the home of the Tučepi Oil Growers’ Collective, founded on the initiative of local priest and teacher Father Mate Šimić. It is probably due to the work done by him and the association that Tučepi’s olive oil is rumoured to be the best on this stretch of coast.Around these fine villas modern homes and hotels grew up in the 20th century. Low-rise and harmonious with white walls and terracotta rooftops, there’s a delightful air of breezy holiday chic.

A summertime festival of culture starts on June 13, St Anthony’s day (Tučepi’s patron saint), while the ka Kultura festival brings music, drama and art to the old hillside villages of Srida Sela, Podpeć, Čovići, Mravičići, Ševelji, Šimići and Podstup.

Tučepi Tourist Board Donji ratac bb, tel. (+385-21) 62 31 00, tzo-tucepi@st.t-com.hr, www.tucepi.com.

Open 08:00 - 22:00.

What to see Museums Gradac Museum (Muzej Gradca) A private museum in a traditional family home in Gradac, a village in the far south of the Makarska Riviera. The idea of setting up a museum has been alive for generations in the Andrijašević family, and collecting and displaying the material has been a labour of love, aided by donations of items from helpful neighbours. Mainly consisting of everyday objects testifying to the way of life in the 19th and 20th centuries, there are five collections: fishing, cooking, carpentry, sailing and music. There are also a fragments from a Roman villa rustica. There’s a lovely collection of folk costumes, and everything is displayed in authentic surroundings.QUz Kuk 6, Gradac, tel. (+385-21) 69 75 61, info@museum-gradac.com, www.museum-gradac. com. June, September Open 09:00 - 20:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:30. Admission 10kn.

Makarska Town Museum (Gradski muzej Makarska) Makarska’s town museum is a great place to find out about the history and culture underlying the sun, sea and summertime hedonism.

Adriatic Photo Service

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Makarska Riviera So, whether you’re a budding biologist or a curious passerby, there’s sure to be something that will take your breath away.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 12 56/(+385-) 099 885 21 65. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 12:00. Admission 10 - 15kn.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej) Baška Voda’s Malacological Museum, like that in Makarska, has a collection of molluscs not only from the depths of the Adriatic but also from other seas around the world.

QSrida 3, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 02 61. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. Admission 3 5kn.

Makarska Tourist Board Archives

It covers the history of the region from prehistory to the modern period, and has a wealth of archaeological artefacts as well as material covering the customs and culture of the seaside areas and the mountain villages. The Museum building, the waterfront Tonoli Palace, is a historic treasure in itself.QObala kralja Tomislava 17/1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 23 02, gradski-muzej-makarska@ st.htnet.hr, www.mdc.hr/makarska/index.htm. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. Admission 10kn.

The Archaeological Museum Collection (Arheološka muzejska zbirka) Traces of human habitation on the Makarska Riviera coast date back to the Neolithic age. This museum covers the period from these prehistoric beginnings up to the 7th century AD. The nations that settled and passed through here during that time include the Illyrians, the Greeks, the Romans and the Slavs. This makes for an interesting mix of artefacts in this pleasant little museum, with some highly attractive pieces on display.QBlato 12, Baška Voda, tel. (+385-21) 62 06 95, baskavoda1@net.hr. Open 10:00 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Admission 8kn.

The Malacological Museum (Malakološki muzej Makarska) Housed in the Franciscan monastery of St Mary, the Malacological Museum was founded by scientist and monk Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990) and his associates in the monastery. Created with painstaking attention to scientific detail and a devotion to celebrating the hidden beauty in the world around us (including under the sea), Friar Radić created a collection that is the best of its kind in the country. Malacology is the branch of zoology that studies molluscs - a large branch of the animal kingdom that includes everything from slugs and snails to octopus and squid plus a host of creatures with shells. There are about 3000 shells in the collection and a collection of invertebrate fossils. There’s also a collection on the flora of the Biokovo mountains and the Adriatic region. The collection of shells includes some spectacular specimens from the Adriatic, as well as beautiful shells from all over the world. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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The Museum of Fish, Crustaceans and Molluscs (Muzej riba, rakova i školjki) A little different in scope to the Malacological Museum, this institution collects only local specimens and collects fish and crustaceans (e.g. crabs, lobsters and prawns) as well as molluscs. The collection includes some 200 specimens including some incredibly rare and interesting beasties.QUlica fra Filipa Grabovca bb (Listun), Makarska, tel. (+385-) 091 596 88 98. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 22:00. Admission 5 - 10kn.

Sport With mountains, sea and rivers, the Makarska area is an unbeatable playground for adventure sports. Cycling is probably the no. 1 sport on land here thanks to the great scenery and challenging terrain. Despite its allure, you might rather avoid the narrow, bendy, often overcrowded Adriatic coastal highway: accidents are all to frequent. Better pick a route through the old hillside villages - details in the nearest tourist board office. In the Biokovo mountains a tarmac road runs 23 km from the park entrance to the Sveti Jure peak (again, watch out for traffic; helmets are mandatory). There’s also an 8 km gravel track from Staza to Saranač, as well as belts cleared of trees to prevent the spread of fires around the edge of the Nature Park. A 5km coastal path from Makarska to Tučepi is perfect for a gentler ride. Still on dry land, there are scenic and interesting hiking trails in the Biokovo Nature Park, while thrills aplenty await rock climbers in the steep Cetina gorge at Omiš. There are also climing walls on the Osejava peninsula in Makarska and on a crag overlooking Brela. Even higher above the earth, there are two paragliding take-off points at Miletin bor and Pržinovac in the Biokovo Nature Park. Water babies will love a refreshing ride on a raft along the fastflowing Cetina river. And then, of course, there’s the sea.

You can sail (or learn to), or surf, or windsurf. You can ride a jet ski, or launch yourself in the air behind one on a paraglider. You can rent a boat, learn to dive, or enjoy a spot of sea fishing. Whichever you choose, we assure you the experience will be unforgettable.

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Makarska Riviera

Palenta s dalmatinskom mišancijom (Polenta with Dalmatian mix of wild plants

Taste of Makarska

Churches Church of Our Lady of Carmel (Crkva Gospe od Karmela) The lovely old Church of Our Lady of Carmel is a votive church built to give thanks for the victory of Christian fighters against the Turks at Sinj in 1715, a battle that ensured freedom from Ottoman dominion for miles around.

For this reason, the church was consecrated as Our Lady of Victory. The church stands in a wooded spot close to the shore, a simple, low-slung structure with a cross-shaped floor plan, a semicircular apse and a belltower with a low roof supported on eight column.QSoline, Brela.

Church of St Philip Neri (Crkva sv. Filipa Nerija) You’ll find this little church and its belltower seemingly interspersed between two houses right on the waterfront.

Its construction was initiated in the 18th century by Bishop Stjepan Blašković, originally as part of the complex of the Monastery of the Sacred Oratory which was later burned down. Bishop Blašković is buried by the main altar here, as is his nephew, Bishop Fabijan Blašković. A local legend has it that one night the sound of the organ playing softly was heard emanating from the locked church. The townspeople interpreted this as a sign from Bishop Stjepan that he’d like to be moved. They opened his grave and to their surprise they found his body perfectly preserved. They interpreted this as a miracle, although a likely explanation is the action of sea salt. Whichever way, the grave was closed and the eerie organ music was never heard again.QObala kralja Tomislava (50m from Hotel Biokovo), Makarska.

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The Makarska Riviera has a very close relationship with the hinterland and with Mount Biokovo - the hinterland and the coast simply can’t function without one another. Many of the dishes of the Makarska region have their roots in the hinterland. You can find excellent Biokovo cheese flavoured with fresh herbs freshly picked on the pristine hillsides. The cows and sheep reared in this region and whose milk is used to make the cheese spend their days in these idyllic - if precarious - surroundings.

One speciality of the region is kaštradina - a stew made with dried and smoked lamb, mutton or goat meat.

Kaštradina comes from the cauldron of the Biokovo shepherd, whose wisdom inspired Greek philosophy”, says Veljko Barbieri, a famous Croatian food writer.

Another speciality worth hunting down is the Biokovo peka - four kinds of meat (lamb, veal, goat meat and chicken) cooked under an iron lid heaped with embers.

Then there’s pašticada ; a Dalmatian classic - beef studded with bacon and garlic and stewed in red wine. If you come across a type of vegetable called motar you must try it - it’s samphire, a plant that grows wild in coastal areas, including on the Osejava peninsula and on the islands. It can be mixed with any combination of wild spring vegetables such as chicory, dandelion, spinach, tender broccoli spears or collard green, and it is excellent served with octopus. Or try one of the fabulous big cabbages that grow in Biokovo gardens, often whipped up by locals into a tasty tomato-based stew.

Finally, a wonderful delicacy from Brela is a special cake, sweet or savoury, called blitvenjak, made with chard (mangold). The sweet version is prepared with walnuts.

The locals on the Makarska Riviera are extremely proud of their olive oil, which you can buy for about 80-100 kn per litre. The olive-growing tradition in Tučepi is so strong that they have built a monument to the olive mill on the waterfront, featuring millstones used in the oilmaking process. And finally, dessert. If you come across ravioli in Makarska or Baška, they are a sweet treat consisting of light, crumbly pastry with a sweet walnut filling. And Makarska’s most famous cake is the Makarana: a harmonious blend of butter and eggs, lemon and orange peel, almonds, maraschino cherry liqueur and a couple of secret ingredients. You simply have to try it!

Church of St Stephen the Martyr (Crkva sv. Stjepana prvomučenika) At the end of the 19th century, a growing population along the seashore at Brela was in need of a church, so the Church of St Stephen was built in 1889 on the site of an older church. Standing in a thicket of pine, it’s a pleasant stone building with a pure white belltower added in the 1950s. The interior is beautifully airy, its light walls spangled with colour from colourful stained-glass windows. The main altar was carved in marble in 1897 by a stonemason from Split.

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Makarska Riviera An altarpiece depicting St Stephen, St George, St John and St Paul dates back to 1890 and is the work of an Italian painter. An altar to Our Lady was bought in Venice in 1825.

Mass: 07:30, Fri 19:00, Sun 11:00.QDonje Selo, Brela, tel. (+385-21) 61 86 18.

St Mark’s Church (Crkva sv. Marka) Viewed from a distance, the terracotta-tipped belfry of St Mark’s Church marks Makarska’s central square, the heart of the town. It is sometimes referred to as Makarska’s cathedral, since right up to 1828 Makarska had its own bishop who had his seat here. Since 1828 Makarska has part of the Archdiocese of Split-Makarska. The bishop has his seat in Split, so nowadays St Mark’s has the status of a co-cathedral or collegiate church: a church with no bishop but otherwise similar in importance to a cathedral. Its interior is certainly impressive. Construction of the church started in 1700 and it was consecrated in 1756 although never completely finished. The Makarska bishops began creating a religious treasury befitting the status of the diocese, resulting in a wonderful collection of religious artworks and liturgical items created by craftsmen from Venice, Italy and Austria as well as local masters. In common with the architectural treasures of the town, much of the religious collection reflects the Baroque spirit prevalent at the time of its creation. The treasury is an important chronicle not only the development of the Catholic Church during that era but also of trade relations and cultural exchange.QTrg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 13 65.

St Nicholas’ Church (Crkva sv. Nikole) This church consecrated to the patron saint of Baška Voda sits at the top of an elegant sweep of stairs in the centre of town. It was built in 1889 in a neo-Romantic style. Two small bells sit atop the church frontage, while the belltower to the right was added in 1991.

Photo by Iwana Galazka

In 1987 colourful stained glass windows by contemporary painter Josip Botteri Dini were installed, and a year later modern paintings of the Stations of the Cross painted by Josip Bifel.QObala sv. Nikole 73, Baška Voda.

St Peter’s Church (Crkva sv. Petra) This simple little church was built in the 15th century on the foundations of its forerunner from the 6th century. The church is sited on the forested St Peter’s Peninsula, which protects Makarska’s harbour. In front of the church and dotted round the peninsula you’ll find the ruins of buildings dating back to Roman, Venetian and prehistoric times.

The forest park and the view of the town and the mountains make it well worth enjoying a stroll here.QSt Peter’s Peninsula, Makarska.

The Franciscan Monastery of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary (Samostan Blažene Djevice Marije na nebo uznesene) The Franciscans arrived in Makarska from Bosnia building their monastery in 1502. Although their efforts were frustrated by frequent invasions, a big earthquake and political opposition, through the centuries the rather lovely monastery you see today came into being. The old monastery complex has a rustic cloistered courtyard with a stone wellhead, a church and a bell tower. The monastery served as a school for religious studies, in 1971 becoming part of the Zagreb Theological Seminary. The monks studied natural sciences and humanities, founding a library which today contains over 5,000 volumes as well as journals, manuscripts and incunabula. One friar in particular, Dr Jure Radić, was a keen biologist who led the creation of the Institute of the Sea and Mountains which is still active today and is based in the monastery. Its Malacological Museum, one of Makarska’s top attractions, is a respected institution with good links with similar museums around the world.

The Institute also has a herbarium of plant species of the Biokovo and Adriatic regions.QFranjevački put 1, Makarska, tel. (+385-21) 61 22 59, www.franjevci-split.hr.

The Vepric Shrine On the main coast road heading west from Makarska, set into the slopes of a hill is the shrine of Vepric, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The forested, hilly landscape with a brook in the valley is reminiscent of Lourdes, the miraculous Marian shrine in France, which is probably why in 1908 Bishop Juraj Carić founded the Vepric shrine. It has a little grotto similar to the one where Our Lady appeared to the young girl Bernardette Soubirous in 1858. Fully equipped for the large numbers of pilgrims that flock here, the shrine has a chapel, an altar, confessionals, stations of the cross and paths for processions as well as buildings for retreats and the pastoral staff that work here. If you’d like to enjoy a few moments of quiet contemplation in the lovely park here you might best avoid the main feast days of 11 February, 25 March, 15 August and 7-8 September. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Makarska Riviera The Turkish Caves You’ve read a lot about the turbulent years of the Turkish invasions and the local’s defence strategies. One particularly interesting example is the so-called “Turkish Caves” near Podpeći, near Tučepi. This is where people took their families and livestock to hide till the danger had passed. They’re called turske peći in local dialect, peći meaning “caves”. And hence the name Tučepi!

Landmarks Kalalarga (Široka ulica) Široka ulica is fondly known by the locals as Kalalarga – a Croatisation of the Italian phrase “calle larga”, meaning Broad Street. The street is anything but broad by modern standards, but back in the day this was the very core of the town, the hub where everything was happening. Makarska’s Kalelarga winds through the town, the stone walls to each side of you providing welcome shade. The Baroque buildings are in the typical Dalmatian style with green wooden shutters, wrought-iron railings and old-fashioned lanterns.QMakarska.

Kostanić’s Grave (Kostanića grob) The hills above the Makarska Riviera resorts are peppered with very old gravestones called stećci (pronounced “stetch-tsi”). There is an element of mystery surrounding these stones, which date from the period between the 11th and the 15th centuries. But one particular stećak at the village of Sela, inland from Drvenik, has its very own legend. Two cavalrymen, Dragutin Miletić from Vrgorac and Dragimir Kostanić from Drvenik, were in love with the same girl, the daughter of a duke named Jurić from Gradac. They fought a duel which resulted in the death of Kostanić. The girl, who loved Kostanić more, died of grief on hearing the news. This is where Kostanić lies.QSela, nr.

Drvenik.

a political movement campaigning for the right to selfdetermination of the Croatian people. There’s a statue of Don Mihovil on the main square (which is also named after him) by sculptor Stipe Sikirica (1994), while his grave has an unusual monument by sculptor Ivan Rendić in a colourful style reminiscent of Art Deco.QPodgora.

Statue of St Nicholas (Kip sv. Nikole) Baška Voda’s little harbour is the proud owner of an impressive statue of St Nicholas, the saint protector of the town. Rock fans and art lovers will be interested to know that it is the work of Mladen Mikulin, the sculptor who created the bust of Jim Morrison that adorned the singer’s grave in Paris before being stolen. Mikulin, who teaches sculpture at the University of Rijeka, created this statue in 1999.QBaška Voda.

Statue of St Peter (Spomenik sv. Petra) Watching protectively over Makarska’s waterfront from a forested vantage point is a statute of St Peter the Apostle.

In case you’re wondering, that key he’s holding in his hand there is to Heaven’s gate, so you might like to be on your best behaviour. St Peter was one of the apostles, sent by Christ to spread his message of redemption. Venerated as one of the most humble of men, the name Christ gave him meant “the Rock” thanks to his steadfast nature. He went on to become the founder of the Church and the first pope, no less. This statue was erected in 2009 in a peaceful spot with a great view over the town, a nice place to take a walk.QSt Peter’s Peninsula, Makarska.

Monument to the Tourist (Spomenik turistu) Makarska and its nearby resorts owe their living to tourism these days, so it’s only right that in 2006 this statue was erected to pay homage to the tourist on the centenary of tourism in the town. Created by young sculptor Nikola Šanjeka, it shows a rather chic couple taking a stroll along the waterfront. Look closely, and you’ll notice that the female tourist has a striking lustre to her right boob. Yes, it’s believed that giving it a friendly squeeze confers good luck upon the squeezer, as well as the wrath of feminists the world over.QRiva waterfront, Makarska.

Statue of Don Mihovil Pavlinović (Kip don Mihovila Pavlinovića) For a small place, Podgora has plenty of public sculpture.

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Makarska Riviera

Baška Voda Tourist Board Archives

Stone Flag Post (Markovac / Štandarac (Kameni stup za zastavu)) Another souvenir left by the Venetians, this stone column bearing a relief of the Lion of St Mark served as the base for a flagpole. The open book that the lion is holding shows that the post was built during times of peace.QIn front of the Tonoli Palace, Makarska.

www.inyourpocket.com Excursions Makarska is well located to act as a base for exploring the surrounding coastline, highlands and islands. In the hinterland you’ll find towns and villages where time has stood still, full of history and folk culture. Within easy reach are the islands of Brač, Hvar, Vis and Korčula, each with its own identity and story. All along the Makarska Riviera tourist boats offer day trips to the islands, usually with a rustic fish dinner included in the price.

An interesting place to explore is the delta of the River Neretva, 62km south of Makarska. This region’s cuisine is based on freshwater food: you can sample frog and eel.

Close by are the Bašćina Lakes, near to the town of Ploče.

Though not large, they are geologically significant due to their setting in the karst landscape. There are seven lakes in all: Lake Oćuša, Crniševo, Podgora, Sladinac, Vrbnik, Šipak and Plitko jezero (“Shallow Lake”). Lake Vrbnik, the smallest, is the only one which isn’t connected to any of the others. There is large number of endemic and protected species here, both plant and animal. Bathing is allowed: the lakes are on average 3°C warmer than the sea, making this a popular spot for bathing, rowing in traditional wooden boats called lađe, and surfing.

The infamous pirate stronghold of Omiš lies at the mouth of the River Cetina, 37km north of Makarska. Further north still, Split, Solin and Trogir all feature UNESCO World Heritage sites. We also recommend Sinj, famous for its unique contest of equestrian and military prowess, the Sinjska Alka. Sinj is also home to a miraculous painting of Our Lady, making it a place of pilgrimage. Other interesting places in the Cetina region include the historic facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Stone Tower (Kamena kula) During the Ottoman wars, over a period of more than 200 years, the villagers in the Dalmatian hinterland lived in constant fear of raids. It’s not unusual, driving around the mountain areas, to come across defensive towers built to protect settlements. Towers were often built in strings, creating a network of defences. The tower in Gornja Podaca dates from the 17th century, it is half-ruined and is surrounded by houses abandoned after the 1962 earthquake.

QGornja Podaca, nr. Gradac. town of Trilj, which also offers plentiful opportunities for adventure sports.

No visitor to the Makarska Riviera should leave without taking a trip into the Biokovo mountains. It’s a half-hour drive to the highest peak, but with steep hairpin bends it’s not a drive for the faint-hearted - anyone with a fear of heights would probably rather join an organised tour. On your way up you’ll drive through centuries-old stone villages such as Gornji Tučepi. A meal in a rustic tavern here is a real treat. The Biokovo Nature Park has a botanical garden with numerous native and endemic species, and there are plenty of interesting biking and hiking trails in the area. On the south-east slopes of the Biokovo mountains, close to the border with Herzegovina, is the mediaeval town of Vrgorac. It is famous for its seven stone towers built during the times of the Turkish invasions.

An essential destination for anyone looking to get acquainted with the folk customs of times past is Kokorići village. Here you can enjoy the restored stone buildings and learn about the traditional way of life in the region.

Further north, also close to the Herzegovinian border is the mountain town of Imotski. Of particular interest here are the Red and Blue Lakes set deep into the mountains.

They take on their colour from the surrounding rock.

Finally, it’s a pity not to take advantage of the chance to pop over to the islands. From Makarska you can hop on a ferry to Sumartin on the island of Brač. If you’d like to go to Hvar, head south to the ferry port at Drvenik. Hvar and Brač are large, diverse and culturally rich islands you’re best off exploring them by car if you’ve only a day to spare. But even if you just pop over to enjoy the slow island tempo for a day you surely won’t regret is.

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The Biokovo Mountain Without those great grey mountains rising steeply from the coast, the experience of being on the Makarska shoreline would be much less of a thrill. That view is just so spectacular: in some places the cliff rising above the little seaside resorts is almost vertical and so close it feels like the shoulder of a protective parent. In many senses, the mountain has protected and sustained humans for millennia, so Biokovo is pretty much the mother lode of culture and general fabulousness in this part of Dalmatia.

Biokovo is not a single mountain but a range of mountains that stretches from just above Brela almost to Igrane in the south, about 25km, about half of the Makarska Riviera. It’s part of a larger system of mountains called the Dinaric Alps, a 645 km long range that stretches along the Adriatic from Slovenia in the north to Albania in the south. The Dinaric Alps, as you might guess, are which is itself part of that famous range so beloved of chocoholics. The mountains are made of limestone deposited at the time when this was a flat sea, before tectonic movements sent the earth skywards. Limestone is a soft rock that is easily moulded by water. This kind of landscape is known as karst and is well known for having fascinating formations including caves and sinkholes where rivers dive underground. The highest peak of Biokovo, Sveti Jure, is 1762m high, the third highest peak in Croatia. Due to its geomorphological, biological and cultural diversity, almost all of the Biokovo range has been declared a Nature Park. It is home to a wild variety of wildlife, including endemic and endangered species. The best known is the Silvery Dwarf Harebell Edraianthzs pumilio. For centuries the slopes of Biokovo provided a home to people seeking shelter from enemy attacks - hardly anyone lived by the sea. In the 20th century, the area became depopulated, meaning that modern life has hardly touched it. Therefore, this is a historical and cultural treasure trove. Lovers of architecture will be enchanted by the ancient stone villages and defences against Turkish attacks. Food buffs will find the smells wafting from traditional-style taverns hard to resist. So, while you’re on the Makarska Riviera we beseech you, don’t be lulled into laziness by the sedutive sea.

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Take a trip into the Biokovo mountains - you’ll be astonished by how much there is to see there. Apart from anything else, the views over the coast and islands are astonishing.

The Biokovo Nature Park covers most of the mountain range and has a number of information centres and educational trails. Since it is a managed park, you are required to buy a ticket at the entrance on the Makarsa - Vrgorac road. You can drive up there, but the best way to explore it is to enjoy a good long hike. Just a couple of precautions: the terrain is rugged - wear strong shoes or hiking boots. The summer heat and sun can be overwhelming: set off at sunrise, and take a hat, sun protection and plenty of water. Outside of the summer, avoid setting off if wind or rain is forecast: the bura (north wind) can reach hurricane force.

Presentation centres: Podgora Selo - Stara Škola (the old school building) Exhibition of photographs of the park, at the moment open only for organised groups by prior arrangement by phone: phone (+385-21) 62 51 36.

Gornja Brela Presentation Centre Local History Collection of Biokovo Nature Park, open to visitors by prior arrangement.

Marin Kovačević Memorial House in the village of Kotišina Information on the Kotišina Botanical Gardens. Open by prior arrangement.

The Kotišina Botanical Garden This Botanical Garden, like the Malacological Museum in Makarska, was founded by biologist Friar Jure Radić (1920-1990), and is part of an educational trail he also created. Set in 16.5 hectares, the Garden is a reserve for local plant species as well as an archive of exotic plants. It has some interesting rock formations such as caves, cliffs and the Proslap waterfall which bursts through a narrow canyon after a heavy fall of rain. There’s a 17th century fortress, a protected monument, and a chapel, St Anthony’s (20th C). Just 3km from Makarska and at an altitude of 350-500m above sea level, this is a suitable destination for a good but not overly demanding walk.

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Makarska Riviera The Andrija Kačić-Miošić Monument (Spomenik fra Andriji Kačiću Miošiću) Since Andrija Kačić-Miošić is to the Croatian language pretty much what Chaucer is to English, and a local lad too, it’s no surprise that a monument to his memory takes pride of place on Makarska’s central square. His statue’s plinth has a beautiful decorative panel at the front in mosaic tiles - a recurring motif on work by Ivan Rendić, the monument’s creator. Rendić, born in Imotski in 1849, was and still is one of Croatia’s greatest sculptors. The coats-of-arms you see featured on the mosaic are of all the countries mentioned by the poet in his famous songbook, “Pleasant Conversation of the Slavic Peoples”. This expression of national consciousness made Kačić-Miošić a hero in these lands, but it didn’t go down too well with the Hapsburg Monarchy of the time. The Empire banned the mosaic; it was finally added in 1922, 32 years after the monument was erected.

Kačić-Miošić was born in Brist, near Gradac to the south of Makarska, in 1704. He was a monk, a philosopher and a teacher as well as a poet who contributed much to the development of the modern Croatian language. All in all, a smashing bloke, you could say!QTrg fra Andrije KačićaMiošića, Makarska.

The Millstones Monument (Kameni mlin) Tučepi’s olive oil press and oil-makers’ association were founded in 1911 and are still glowing with monounsaturated-style health today: Tučepi’s oil is among the most prized for miles around. A monument to the oil-making tradition in Tučepi was created in the form of this pair of millstones set on the waterfront.QTučepi.

Makarska Tourist Board Archives

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Makarska Riviera The Rock of Brela (Kamen Brela) A miniscule islet just off the shoreline on one of Brela’s gorgeous beaches, the Rock of Brela displays some of the natural contrasts that make this region so stunning: grey rock, green scented pine and a sea and sky so blue they melt into each other. The Rock of Brela is an iconic visual that is part of the Makarska Riviera’s very identity.

The rock is a protected natural monument, so no climbing please!QDugi rat Beach, Brela.

The Seagull’s Wing Monument (Spomenik Galebova krila) On a hillside high above Podgora’s harbour is a striking piece of modern sculpture: the 20m-high Seagull’s Wing monument. During the Second World War, Podgora became the headquarters of the Partisans’ flotilla, which helped defeat the Axis forces in what became Yugoslavia. This monument was unveiled by Tito in 1962 on the 20th anniversary of the founding of the flotilla. Created by sculptor Rajko Radović, the image of the bird in flight symbolises the liberation of the Adriatic region, while its bent right wing represents those who fell in battle. The monument is dedicated to all those who lost their lives fighting against fascism.QPodgora.

The Venetian Water Fountain (Gradska česma) A spectacular stone structure in front of St Mark’s Church featuring three lions’ heads spouting water from their mouths. As you might guess from the big cat motif, the fountain dates from the time when the Venetians occupied this coast - the period in history mainly responsible for the romantic Baroque appearance of the older parts of Makarska. The fountain was built in 1775 as a public water fountain - this is where people came to get their supplies for daily use in their homes, and indulge in a little juicy gossip along the way. Today the splash of the water refreshes the square on the hottest summer day.QTrg fra Andrije Kačića-Miošića, Makarska.

Palaces The Ivanišević Family Palace (Barokna palača obitelji Ivanišević) Of all the Baroque buildings in Makarska, the Ivanišević Palace shows to the best effect how the wealthiest citizens used to live. All in stone with terracotta roofs, the palace has a galleried courtyard at its centre. It’s privately-owned and not open to the public.QLištun, Makarska.

The Tonoli Palace (Palača Tonoli) The Tonoli Palace was built in the 18th century by a Venetian doctor named Tonoli as the family home. Today it houses Makarska’s Town Museum, and you’ll also find the Tourist Association office here. Again, it’s in the local Baroque style, in stone with small shuttered windows and a romantic balcony at the front.QObala kralja Tomislava 16, Makarska.

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Beaches Dugi rat Beach (ex Punta Rata Beach), Brela - This beach is regularly nominated as one of the loveliest in Europe, if not the world. Its white shingle turns into coarse sand at the water’s edge, making it ideal for children. It’s backed by pine trees which provide welcome shade when the sun is at its strongest, a perfect spot for an afternoon nap. This is the beach where you’ll find the Rock of Brela sitting just off the shore, covered in ancient crooked pines.

As the beach is in the centre of the pleasant resort of Brela, there are plenty of restaurants and cafés along the waterfront as well as sports equipment for hire. Živogošće Beach, Živogošće - Olive trees and pine forests grow alongside the lovely shingle beach at Živogošće, so this beach is a great place to keep your cool and take a refreshing dip on even the hottest day. Nearby Hotel Nimfa is a good place to find something to eat and drink, and has tennis courts, an open-air swimming pool and other leisure facilities.

Nugal Beach, Tučepi - Nugal Beach is a famous naturist beach on the Makarska Riviera. It’s located east of Makarska, not far from Tučepi. It’s hidden by steep cliffs; to get to it you need to take a stroll through a lovely pine forest.

This is a piece of heaven for those who enjoy the freedom of sunbathing and bathing in the clean sea just as nature intended.

Mala Duba Beach, Živogošće - This beach made of small white pebbles stretches through the whole village of Mala Duba at Živogošće. Part of it is reserved for naturists. This is a spectacular spot where the mountains plunge right into the sea on the idyllic, pine-fringed shoreline. It’s a great place to enjoy an evening stroll and watch the sun go down. Hotel Nimfa has entertainment on summer evenings. There’s a small market where you can stock up on delicious, locally-grown fruit and vegetables.

Berulija Beach, Brela - This beach, 400m long, is made up of three little coves, perfect for those who prefer more intimate beaches to long stretches of shingle. The beach is well equipped with toilets and showers, there’s a lifeguard on duty and wheelchair access. Plenty of shade is available in the pine forest behind the beach.

Gornja Vala Beach, Gradac - Gradac is a lively little resort with a number of hotels with discos and bars open all night. The harbour here provides perfect shelter for small vessels in bad weather. Gornja Vala beach is the longest beach on the Croatian Adriatic and one of the most famous of the Makarska Riviera’s shingle beaches. It’s located just south of the little harbour. This is a scenic spot at the foot of the mountains. Pine and olive provide shade, and there are plenty of sports facilities. There’s a small naturist beach a short distance away.

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Hvar, Photo by Ivana Stanešić

Split Surroundings

Split Surroundings IMMERSE YOURSELF BY DISCOVERING THIS MAGICAL REGION, ITS NATURAL BEAUTY, AND ITS RICH CULTURAL AND AUTOCHTHONIC FOOD OFFER facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Brač

Small enough to be quaint and cozy but large enough to have extras like a disco or two, swimming pools and tennis courts, Šolta is located about nineteen nautical miles from Split, just west of Brač. The island is another of those special places in Dalmatia where the traditional Croatian way of life has been largely maintained to the present day. This means that the principal industry on the island is fishing, donkeys are still a viable form of transportation and the locals in the eight villages on Šolta might strike visitors as unusually kind, inviting and warm. It also means that the pace of life is markedly slower than in other places in Dalmatia, which is quite a feat in itself. This slow pace of life is an ideal environment in which to enjoy the benefits of the island, not the least of which is the main product of the island, fish.

The island’s fisherman can be seen leaving in the morning and returning with the day’s catch, which is then prepared for the evening’s meal and accompanied by some excellent homemade wine, both of which will be on hand for you to sample in abundance. As we know, however, man does not survive on bread (or fish) alone. We also need a little adventure from time to time and Šolta has that to offer, as well.

The tranquil coves and beaches around the island play perfect host to swimming, sunbathing and even windsurfing, and the island itself is perfect for hiking through the olive groves and vineyards that supply the island’s other principal products. In short, Šolta is a nice mix of atmosphere, nature and local culture that can be enjoyed as a day trip or as a short stay. Either way, there’s something for everyone.

Brač, the Croatian Adriatic’s third largest island, offers spectacularly beautiful scenery. It has the highest mountain of any Croatian island, and despite its proximity to Split, retains a rustic, rural atmosphere. Even the largest town, Supetar, is not very big. You can reach Brač by Jadrolinija car/ passenger ferry either from Makarska to Sumartin on the southeast tip of the island, or from Split to Supetar, which is on the northwest.

If you like to sunbathe or swim, check out Croatia’s most famous beach, Zlatni Rat (Golden Cape). It’s a point jutting out into the sea near the town of Bol, on the south side of the Brač. However, this beach is liable to be crowded during the summer, especially with younger people. It’s also a popular spot for windsurfing. If you’d prefer a less frenetic bathing experience you can go to the beach at Lovrenčina Bay, which is 4 km east of Postira, in the middle of Brač’s north side. There are great views of the mainland mountains from there as well as the ruins of a medieval basilica just above the beach. If you prefer sightseeing instead of hitting the beach, you should head for Škrip, a small, picturesque village located on a plateau almost in the middle of Brač. Škrip is unique in that structures spanning two millenia are located there. There are a Roman cistern, sculpture and mausoleum; medieval castles; and churches from the Middle Ages. Škrip’s Museum of Brač contains many ancient artifacts recovered from archeological digs, including a relief of Hercules.

Assuming your schedule allows a three day visit to Brač, you could extend your activities from what’s listed above to the following. There is a beautiful late 15th century Dominican monastery (Dominikanski samostan) in Bol.

Tourist Information Centre QObala sv. Tereze 3, Rogač, Šolta, tel. (+385-21) 65 46 57, solta@solta.hr, www.visitsolta.com. Open 07:00 21:00.

Little girl and the cat - Photo by Valentina Bunić

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Its museum has a collection of ancient Greek and Cretan artifacts as well as a Tintoretto painting of the Madonna and Child dating from 1563. An even more interesting monastery to visit, especially if you like to hike, is the Hermitage of Blaca (Pustinja Blaca), founded in 1588 by monks fleeing the Turks. Perched on the side of a steep sided canyon about half way between the sea and the summit of Brač’s highest peak, Vidova Gora, Blaca indeed is a perfect place to hide. You can hike to the monastery either up a trail that begins near the coastal village of Murvica (west of Bol), or down from another trail that starts from a dirt track on the flank of Vidova Gora. To reach the trailhead you go 6 km on that track, which begins 1 km from the turnoff to Vidova Gora on the Supetar to Bol road. If you don’t have an SUV you run the risk of ruining your vehicle’s suspension. Both trails are well marked, which is unusual for Dalmatia. Allow several hours for the round trip hike and bring plenty of water. You will be rewarded with great views plus Blaca’s ascetic architecture and splendid isolation.

Hikers also might want to climb to the 780 meter summit of Vidova Gora, the highest mountain of any Adriatic island, 2 hours on a well marked trail from Bol. You can also drive there on an asphalted road that starts from a signed turn off on the Supetar-Bol road just east of the town of Nerežišća.

The views from the peak are terrific. If you like scuba diving and snorkeling, there are dive centers in Supetar and Bol that rent equipment and organize dive cruises. It’s easy to spend a day or more enjoying the warm, clear waters of the Croatian Adriatic. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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If you are going to be on Brač for a week there’s much more you can do. Land lubbers and aquatic types alike can spend several pleasant days exploring the attractive coastal villages of Brač. Just trying to pronounce their names should prove interesting. These include Sutivan, Bobovišća, Ložišća and Milna on the east side of the island; Splitska, Postira, Pučišća and Povlja on the north side; and Selca and Sumartin on the east. All of them have a medieval atmosphere in their old quarters, with narrow, cobblestone alleys winding up from the seafront; nearly all stone buildings with green shutters; medieval fortress towers built for defense against pirates and the Turks; and centuries old churches. The views offshore are wonderful, and there are plenty of outdoor cafes and restaurants from which to soak them up. Olive tree orchards and wild olive trees cover a significant portion of Brač, and there are many small-scale olive oil producers.

KLIS One of the largest, most spectacular and yet easily accessible fortresses in the county is Klis, planted precariously on sheer cliffs just inland from Split. There’s an excellent view of this fortress from the highway that connects Split with the A-1 autocesta. Partially restored and now an outdoor museum, the fortress is well signposted from the road. It will take you at least an hour to explore the fortress and soak in the great views in every direction.There is a café right below the fortress.

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You will see lots of signs advertising fresh, extra virgin olive oil (ekstra djevičansko maslinovo ulje) for sale. There are even agro-tourism offers for olive picking; check with a travel bureau about where that is possible.

Brač white marble has been exported all over the world. It’s claimed that Brač marble was even used in the construction of the American White House. And of course, it was used in the building of many local houses. You will see several quarries as you drive about the island, and they are accessible - a tort lawyer’s dream.There are two caves worth exploring on Brač: Zmajeva (Dragon) and Kopačina.

They’re located between Supetar and Donji Humac.

Even if you had more than a week to spend on Brač you wouldn’t suffer for lack of things to do. You could spend many more days just driving around or relaxing on the beach, soaking up the scenery.

Supetar Tourist Information Centre QPorat 1, tel. (+385-21) 63 05 51, info@supetar.hr, www.supetar.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

Hvar You can reach Hvar by ferry (and your car too) from Split to Stari Grad or, there is a faster catamaran route that goes to Jelsa and Hvar city. If you’re a little south of Split, you can still reach Hvar if you hop onto a ferry in Drvenik (just south of Makarska).

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This ferry heads to Sućuraj on the island of Hvar. If you’re coming from the north, you can also get to Hvar along the coast with a line from Rijeka to Dubrovnik which makes a stop in Hvar city. See getting around section.

Things to see and do: Hvar is without a doubt, one of the most beautiful islands in the Adriatic. It extends out in an east-west direction and on its southern-south-western coast there are a number of small islets and islands. Along its northern side there are only two islands, Zečevo and Duga.

Amongst these islands, the most numerous are the Pakleni islands which are in the immediate vicinity of Hvar city. Due to its distinctive vegetation, these islands landscapes are protected.

The Pakleni islands (Fiery Islands) got their interesting name from a little known fact...tar and resin used for coating the bottoms of boats used to be cooked here.The western side of Hvar is the widest and mostly contains fields and small towns.

Hvar city bestows its beauty upon wide-eyed travellers with medieval fortresses Španjol (from 1551) and Napoleon (built by the French in 1810) and their hilltop fortressed walls, located high above, atop St Nicholas, offering a splendid view of below. The prison dungeon inside the Španjol Fortress is quite impressive and if you take a peek below, it’s easy to imagine the sounds of the prison guards bringing food to the prisoners along the narrow dungeon walls, not to mention the despairing sounds of the the prisoners! Going around Hvar, you’ll encounter historical charm with the Renaissance St Stephen’s Cathedral (16-17th century) styled by local masters Karlić and Pomenić and the centre of the old part of town has a 15th century form.

On the northern slope above the square are the partially preserved inner city walls of the noble Hvar palace. On the southern slope in the cemetery is the former Augustinian church of St Michael (Sv Mikule), dated from the early 15th century. On the eastern side of town, outside the city walls lies the 16th century Renaissance summer villa of Hanibal

kaštela Between Split and Trogir, 20km to the west, lies a sequence of seven small towns known collectively as “Kaštela” (Castles), each centred on its own fortress.

If you drive along route 8 from Split towards Trogir you will see signs directing you to them (Kaštel Gomilica, Kaštel Kambelovac, Kaštel Lukšić, Kaštel Novi, Kaštel Stari, Kaštel Sućurac, Kaštel Štafilić). Most were constructed in the 16th century to provide shelter from marauding pirates or the Turks. It would take the better part of a day to check out their interesting architectural features.

Kaštela Tourist Information Centre QObala kralja Tomislava 18, Kaštel Novi, tel. (+38521) 23 20 44, karmen@kastela-info.hr, www.kastelainfo.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00.

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Split Surroundings Lucić, a Croatian poet. On the corner between two bays is the Franciscan monastery with church of Our Lady of Mercy (1465-1471) which served as a sanctuary for sailors. Inside this church is a museum with a valuable art collection, the most precious work being the Last Supper. Under the main altar lies the grave of Hanibal Lucić. Hvar also has an armoury with the most monumental sculpture of civil architecture (1579-1611) atop an older one from 1331. Located under a huge vault stood a warehouse for the Hvar galley.

On the floor above is the public theatre of Hvar from 1612, one of the oldest in Europe which was commissioned by the knight Pietro Semitecolo. The Benedictine monastery in Hvar is well known for it’s craftsmanship of unique lace made from agave fibres.

Hvar is by far the sunniest island in the Adriatic and is one of the most beautiful islands in the world. The scent within Hvar is difficult to miss with fields upon fields of lavender, heather and sage which offer a stunning visual and fragrant experience. The mountainous areas from Brusje to Hvar presents an exceptional view of the largest plantations of lavender on the island. A longer stay on Hvar will give you the opportunity for a thorough exploration.

Stari Grad (former Greek colony of Pharos) is positioned on a route which passes alongside the island and today’s ferry port. The oldest town on the island and one of the oldest in Europe, it has been around since 384-385 B.C. Located here is also the summer villa of Petar Hektorović and the Early Christian church of St John (Sv.Ivan).

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Jelsa is a town on the northern side of Hvar where the first hotel was built in 1911 bounded by the two highest points of the island; on the west St Nicholas and on the east, Hum. It came into existence around the chapel of St John of the Fields which was formed around a square and its current look harks back to between the 17th and 19th centuries.

The churches of St Fabian and Sebastian are also in Jelsa. If you set out on a journey into the interior of the island not far from Jelsa, you’ll come across the small villages of Pitve, Vrisnik and Svirće, which will bewitch you with their appearance and peacefulness.

Only 7km east of Jelsa, you’ll find the abandoned village of Humac. The houses were built of polecat fur and stone and they’re completely unique in their entirety of rural architecture. Below Humac is the Grapčeva cave, the most vital prehistoric findings from the Neolithic era, 5000-4000 B.C. Close by Jelsa is Vrboska, which is hidden in the depth of the bay that contains a small islet in the centre.

They call Vrboska ‘’Little Venice’’ due to it’s small bridges with which it is connected.

There is also a Fishing Museum which is worth a look in as is the fort church of St Mary of Charity from the 16th century. This fort church was built in defence of the invading Turks of the time. Hidden inside the Baroque church of St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) is a bona fide art treasure attributed to the Renaissance masters Tiziano Vescelius, Paolo Cagliari aka Veronese, Jacob de Ponte Bassano, Giuseppe Albardia, Antonio Scuri, Tiziano Aspetti and the filigree artist Benvenuto Cellini.

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Split Surroundings On the northern part of the island and near the city of Hvar is Lozna Beach, then Basina beach not far from Vrboska, and the beaches of Pokrivenik, Zaraća and Virak beside Gdinja. To head to the southern side of the island you must pass through a natural tunnel (hollowed out of the rock) beside a place called Pitve on the southern side up to Ivan Dolac. You’ll come across a gorgeous view of the islands Šćedro, Korčula and the Pelješac peninsula before exiting the tunnel. Until recently the tunnel functioned via a telephone at both ends. With a call you’d know if there was a car waiting to enter from the other end but now there is a traffic light in place. The locals dug out the tunnel so they could get from one side of the island to the other. When you pass the tunnel you’ll get to the southern side of the island which is beautiful and on which vineyards grow abundant with the ‘Plavac Mali’ (Small Blue) grape, located in Sveta Nedelja, Zavala. On this southern side of the island you can bathe on the Jagodna and Bojanić beaches which are situated between Sveta Nedelja and Ivan Dolac, so too are the Jedra, Srhov Dolac, Skozanje and Vela Lučica beaches. On island’s eastern side lies the small port of Sućuraj which is also the starting point of the mainland ferry service (Sućuraj-Drvenik line).

Sućuraj was settled in the mid 15th century. The oldest and best preserved building there is the old Augustinian (and now Franciscan) monastery. Also partially preserved is the old Venetian fort from 1613. Nearby toward the south is the sandy Česminica beach and Bilina on the northern side.

The island’s mountains aren’t very high, however, with their coastal slopes and marvellous sea views they are ideal for any hiker’s aspirations.

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The possibility of sailing, mountain hiking, trekking are promising as too for diving. Hvar and the island Vis are the hubs of winemaking in these areas, the history of which stretches back far into the past.Hvar possesses a number of local grape varieties ‘Bogdanuša’ and ‘Drenkuša’ which can not be found anywhere else. The southern side of the island is ideal for the cultivation of ‘Plavac Mali’ due to its sunny hillsides which give the wine its high quality. Renowned wine estates include Plenković, whose cellars provide the high quality wine ‘Zlatan Plavac’ (Grand Cru 2003), the Tomić wine estate where you can find Hektorović prošek (sherry) (Plavac Mali Barrique 2003), the Duboković estate (Medvid 2003), the Carić estate (Plavac Ploški Barrique 2005), the Plančić, Vujnović and P.Z Svirče estates. Enjoy a glass of local wine from Hvar, at newly opened Red Red Wine Bar, located along a peaceful stone street, by the center of old town of Hvar.

Stari Grad Tourist Board QObala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1, tel. (+385-21) 76 57 63, tzg-stari-grad@st.t-com.hr, www.stari-grad-faros.hr.

Open 08:00 - 14:00, 15:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 21:00.

Vis The island of Vis is one of the most interesting marine areas in the Adriatic. Due to its many years as a forbidden zone for foreigners in Communist Yugoslavia, the island has largely remained untouched and unmarred, surrounded by seas of indescribable beauty.

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The most attractive is the archipelago around the southeast coast of Vis, then around the western coast, the islets of Biševo, Brusnik and Sveti Andrija (St Andrew), and in the east, Sušac.

Vis is an island that cannot be seen on a day trip due to its fair distance from the mainland. However, it’s an excellent place to spend a few days to get a good sense of its beauty, or ten days to take advantage of all of its charms.

The only way to arrive to the island of Vis is by ferry or catamaran. If arriving from Split, and if in possession of a car, you can only go via the Jadrolinija Ferry service. The trip takes 1 hour and 15 minutes and from Split, tickets can be purchased at the kiosk by the catamarans. From Vis, tickets can be purchased at Jadrolinija Agency. The two largest towns on the island, Vis and Komiža, are connected with a bus line. The main bus station is located at the ferry stop, on the right of the exit ramp. Tickets are purchased on the bus and are only valid for one way travel (fare 20kn). For those who get off the bus in Komiža, there is always a bus connection for Vis tied in with the ferry departures for Split.

Things to see and do: The best way to experience Vis is to go about it with abandon and without a plan. Endeavour to taste the gastronomic delights by which Vis is known or, lounge around on the marvelous beaches at the small bay Stiniva (the prettiest sandy beach on the island, 10km north from the town of Vis), the bay of Srebrena, Rukavac or Zaglav. Also, don’t miss the chance to meander around the renaissance summer villas, Tito’s cave above Podšpilja or the ruins of the ancient city. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Carob is native to the eastern Mediterranean and was brought to the southern parts of Dalmatia by the Greeks. Its dark brown pods were highly recommended and see as an excellent substitute for chocolate. Hmm… did our ancestors have a sweet tooth for the finer things in life even then? So precise were the Ancient Greeks in their methods that they discovered that every pip from a carob pod weighed 0.18 grams.

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Split Surroundings It has a unique way of preparing sardines (srdele), a fish stew served with soft polenta and fagioli beans (brudet), young goat grilled Dalmatian style (kozletina na gradelima), artichokes with broad-beans and peas (artičoke sa bobom i bižima), octopus in red wine (hobotnica u crnom vinu), crispy little cakes which have a two month shelf-life due to one exceptional ingredient (cviti), a Christmas cake (hjib) which is prepared for guests all year round and contains dried figs mixed with the essence of the grape and fennel spirits. And, let’s not forget the island’s charming wines, Viška Vugava and Plavac. By the way, the delicious and most popular spirits on the island of Vis include flavours of carob, rose, sage and fennel.

Vis Tourist Board QŠetalište Stare Isse 5, tel. (+385-21) 71 70 17, tzg-visa@ st.t-com.hr, www.tz-vis.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, 17:00 21:00. June 15 - September 15 Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Marina Rafting, Omiš Tourist Board

Vis is one of the most valuable Hellenistic sites in Croatia.

One of the most important Dalmatian cities of the Greek colony of Issa was located here in the 4th century BC. The ruins of the ancient city of Issa can still be seen in parts of the port, the Roman baths, the necropolis and theatre and you can also view artifacts from Issa at the Archaeological Museum of Vis which is located in the Austrian fortress “Gospina batarija’ (Our Lady’s Battery) also known for its large collection of amphorae and more notably for its bronze head of the Greek godess Artemis.

The island Vis has a rich sacral heritage as seen in the churches of Sv.Ciprijana (St Cyprian) and the Holy Spirit, the Franciscan monastery on the Prirovo peninsula and the sanctuary of Our Lady (Vele Gospe) in Podselja.

Komiža is a fishing village located at the southern end of the island which is dominated by the Grimaldi fortress, which also houses the Fishing Museum. The main church in Komiža, the church of St Mikule, is positioned above the village offering a spectacular view of below.

The interior areas of Vis are worth seeing, especially the township of Dragodid (complete with picturesque stone huts), only a 45 minute walk from Komiža. Dragodid is interesting because it is one of the rare preserved villages which has conserved its exceptional form.

Without the diving and swimming in the Medvjedina (Medvjedina Cave) on Biševo, and the Zelena špilja (Green Cave) near Milna, the island of Vis wouldn’t be the marvel that it is.

And if you have time, take a trip to Palagruža island and enjoy a true marine experience!

It’s worth engaging in a gastronomic adventure on the island of Vis, for the island is known as the “island of sweetness”.

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Marina, a municipality in the Split-Dalmatia County, is located in the center of Dalmatia. It’s situated exactly halfway in between the UNESCO protected cities Split and Šibenik and 12km from Trogir. The settlement is surrounded by picturesque fortifications, such as the quadrangular tower the bishops of Trogir built in the 15th century, Drid hill containing remnants of old stone houses scattered throughout the former Dridske county, as well as the St. Philip and Jacob’s Cave, famous for having been visited by Emperor Franz Joseph I in the year 1891. The Marina Riviera consists of three small picturesque Dalmatian towns: Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid, which overlook the crystal clear blue waters and sandy beaches. In the surrounding Zagora region, original Dalmatian traditions and customs, folklore costumes and local gastronomy are still preserved. This area is rich in ancient olive groves and is widely known for producing olive oil. As well, numerous bike paths in this region allow for a great way to explore this time-honoured area.

Marina Tourist Board QAnte Rudana 47, tel. (+385-21) 88 90 15, tz.opcine. marina@st.t-com.hr, www.tz-marina.hr.

kamerlengo All are accessible by car. The UNESCO World Heritage site of Trogir, an island town, has its own castle fortress, too, right on the waterfront. Kamerlengo Citadel was built in the 15th century and has been well restored.

Trogir’s Venetian heritage (the Venetians held sway there for three and a half centuries starting in 1420) is clearly evident from the town’s lovely architecture.

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Split Surroundings Omiš Originating in Mt. Dinara at the border of Croatia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the Cetina River winds a tortuous course through the countryside until it finally empties into the Adriatic.The mouth of the river passes through an impressive gorge near the small Dalmatian town of Omiš, a quiet and picturesque town that is the center of what has become known as “the Omiš Riviera.” However, things were not always so quiet. Omiš gained initial notoriety because of a band of pirates, the Omiški gusari or Corsairs of Omiš, that patrolled the waters in the area in special boats called “arrows”, so named for their ability to attack quickly and retreat speedily into the mouth of the river.

While it’s true that today yachts are more likely to be seen cruising the waters of the Omiš Riviera than a group of fasttraveling pirate ships, there’s still plenty of adventure to be had in Omiš. The mountainous areas around the town make for great hiking spots, the water is an inviting crystalline blue and the history of the town can be explored in the remnants of fortresses (like Mirabela, which the Corsairs of Omiš used to defend the town against attacks from Turkish invaders), churches and other structures dating back as far as the 13th century. In Omiš there are eight famous churches. Three are located within the old city walls and include the church of St. Michael, the church of the Holy Ghost and the church of St. Rocco. The remaining churches are located outside of the old city walls and include the church of St. Peter, the church of St. Luke and the church of St. Mary, located at the old Omiš cemetery.

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The church of Our Lady of Carmel is at the Franciscan Monastery and the remains of the church of St. John in Borak.

The Fortress Tvrđava is located on top of Dinara mountain and offers an enchanting view of the entire area, from the canyon of the Cetina River to the islands of Brač, Hvar and Šolta to the Dalmatian region of Poljica. If you like the feel of sand between your toes, then over 1.5km of sandy beaches will make you a truly happy chappie. Thanks to this postion at the mouth of the Cetina, Omiš and the nearby villages offer many activies which can turn your holiday into an unforgettable adventure: rafting, canoe safari, canyoning, hiking, paragliding, zipline. And when you’re finished exploring the natural beauty of Omiš and it’s history, the town’s central location makes it a perfect starting point for the rest of your Dalmatian coast adventure, hopefully minus any dreams of terrorizing the seas as a modern-day Corsair of Omiš.

Omiš Tourist Board QTrg kneza Miroslava b.b., tel. (+385-21) 86 13 50, info@tz-omis.hr, www.tz-omis.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00.

Solin Solin, aka Salona in Italian and Latin, stands 8 kilometres outside of Split at the meeting point of the River Jadro and the Adriatic Sea and was at one time the largest Roman settlement on the eastern coast of the Adriatic sea.

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Split Surroundings

The Vranjača cave The Vranjača cave is made up of two chambers. The first, the existence of which was already known in the 19th century, has no stalactites. The second was discovered in 1903 by Stipe Punda, who was the owner of this plot of land. This part consists of a system of nine smaller chambers in colours ranging from green through blue, some of which shimmer due to the presence of crystals. The cave is about 360m long and is at a constant temperature of 15ºC all year round. Vranjača is suitable for visits by tourists, with steps, rope handrails, walkways and lighting. It is supervised and has a car park. The cave is well visited by day trippers from Split and nature lovers from all over.

The cave, Vranjača, is located in the foothills of the central part of Mosor, on the northern side. If you are coming from Split then take the paved road through Dugopolje to the village Kotlenica in the hamlet Punde (25km) and finally follow another 300m path to the entrance of the cave.

The cave is open from 15th March to 1st November, 09:00 - 20:00 (June, July, August), 09:00 - 19:00 (May, September), 10:00 - 18:00 (April, October) and by prior arrangement (November - March). Guided tours, which last about 1 hour, are available in English, and cost 40kn for adults and 20kn for children. Please call (+385-) 098 74 90 00 for more information. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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The last day of summer, Photo by Valentina Bunić

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Split Surroundings

Trogir, Photo by Dražen Mimica

One of its primary historical distinctions is that it was the birthplace of Emperor Diocletian who, as we hope you know by now, erected his palace in Split and spent the rest of his days there. Solin also probably played a role in Christianity’s early history. According to the Bible, Paul’s student Titus traveled to the region and, because of its sea connections with Italy and the Middle East, it is likely that Solin would have attracted such emissaries of Christianity. In any event, the town’s role as a crossroads of cultures and religions left behind an archaeological legacy that has earned the town the title of “Croatia’s Pompeii”.Until recently, Solin depended on its cement and asbestos factories as its principal industries, which did little to enhance the image of the town. Today, due to excavations exposing the remains of the former Roman town located nearby, tourists from Trogir and Split are giving the town a much-needed economic boost. In turn, they receive the possibility to stroll among ancient ruins that are over two thousand years old.

In response to this increase in tourism, Solin has dedicated itself to highlighting and preserving its natural attractions as well. The River Jadro has been carefully preserved and is dotted with loads of green areas that are a pleasure to stroll through as well, especially if you’re not thrilled by the idea of exploring ancient ruins. In the end, Solin makes for a lovely day-trip from Split or Trogir and, considering the wealth of history ready to be explored there, just might be one of the best-kept travel secrets in the country that is just slightly off the beaten path.

Solin Tourist Board QKralja Zvonimira 69, tel. (+385-21) 21 00 48, tzgsolin@st.t-com.hr, www.solin-info.com. Open 07:30 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Trogir Similar to Split, its neighbor town just a short distance away, Trogir is yet another Croatian town that possesses incredible historical and architectural traditions, both of which 64 Split In Your Pocket

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have been built upon by a progression of generations during the past 2,300 years. Walking the streets of Trogir’s old town, one encounters Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture and artwork, juxtaposed with modern stores and shop fronts, making Trogir a fascinating amalgamation of architectural styles from different eras.

Founded in the 3rd century BC by Greek settlers from the island of Vis, Trogir was an important port in the region until well into the Roman era, when its importance was diminished by the rise of Salona. Again, like so many other coastal Croatian cities, Trogir underwent a tumultuous series of victories, defeats, periods of autonomy and periods of subservience to outside governments, with the city finally coming under Venetian rule from 1420 to 1797.

While the former rulers of the region were interested in Trogir for its strategic location, visitors to the city today are interested in the structures that dwell inside the walls of the city’s old town. Of particular importance are the churches and buildings dating from the 13th century; the Duke’s palace, which dates from the 13th century; and perhaps most impressive of all, the Cathedral of St Lawrence and the Portal of Radovan. Radovan, a master artist and Trogir native, created the intricate entryway to the cathedral in 1240.

The cultural and historical significance of the town and its architecture were verified in 1997 when UNESCO (the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) added Trogir to its list of protected world heritage sites, marking the beginning of a new era in Trogir’s history.

While traditionally an economy focused on agriculture and fishing, this new era of the city’s development will almost definitely be focused on tourism, as Croatia’s coast becomes an increasingly popular destination for tourists from around the world.

Trogir Tourist Board QTrg Ivana Pavla II / 1, tel. (+385-21) 88 56 28, tzgtrogira@st.htnet.hr, www.tztrogir.hr. Open 08:00 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

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Leisure Adventure sports Adventure Dalmatia Rafting on the River Cetina, sea kayaking, canyoning...QD3, Matije Gupca 26, tel. (+385-) 091 182 89 95, info@ adventuredalmatia.com, www.splitadventure.com. Call for arrangements.

Dalmatia Explorer Seeking adventure! This Outdoor Adventure Agency specialises in sport-recreational outdoor and adventure activities with the beauty of coastal and inland Dalmatia, its hinterland, landscapes, islands, rivers, lakes, Dinaric Alps, canyons, and springs which make for the perfect setting.

Choose from jeep safaris, cycling, kayaking, canoeing and more. Eat the local food, and spoil your senses with the delightful sounds and colours of nature. Inspirational packages are available at fair prices. Exploring Dalmatia is the best kept secret in Croatia!Qtel. (+385-) 091 212 88 82, info@dalmatiaexplorer.com, www.dalmatiaexplorer. com.

Dalmatia Rafting Rafting, canoeing and kayaking.QD-2, Mažuranićevo šetalište 8a, tel. (+385-21) 32 16 98/(+385-) 098 169 77 49, cetina@dalmatiarafting.com, www.dalmatiarafting. com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Falco Tours Sea kayaking, canoeing, birdwatching, rafting, canyoning...

QD/E-3, Žrnovnička 11, tel. (+385-21) 54 86 46/(+385-) 091 786 72 20, info@falco-tours.com, www.falco-tours. com. Call for arrangements.

SPK Marulianus Sport climbing club.QD-2, Tončićeva 1/2, tel. (+385-) 091 529 59 90, info@marulianus.hr, www.marulianus. hr. Working hours by arrangement.

Zip Line Pure adventure and adrenaline fun as thrill seekers descend through a canyon down a wire rope, secured by a harness and belt.QJosipa Pupačića 4, Omiš, tel. (+385-) 098 21 17 07, 095 822 22 21, zipline.croatia@gmail.com, zipline-croatia.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Adventure Eco Tours

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Shopping

Jaman Gallery

Shopping centres & Malls City Center One QF-2, Vukovarska 207, tel. (+385-21) 51 01 30, info-st@ citycenterone.com, www.citycenterone.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. June 02 - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00.

Joker Centre QD-2, Put Brodarice 6, tel. (+385-21) 39 69 09, marketing@joker.hr, www.joker.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

Art Galleries Atelier Mikulić Paintings and sculptures by the Split-born academic painter Neno Mikulić whose distinctive artistic style and sculptures of ladies, sailors and ships can never go unnoticed.

QE-3, Šimićeva 6, tel. (+385-) 091 515 25 75, nenomikulic@ gmail.com, www.gallerymikulic.net, Open by prior arrangement. N Jaman Young Split artist Danijel Jaman’s original, vibrant and colourful paintings representing scenes of the Mediterranean, sailing boats, world city landmarks, and more.

Eye-catching artwork!QI-2, Šubićeva 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 91/(+385-) 098 32 27 19, danijel.jaman@st.t-com.hr, www.jaman-art.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 23:00. A Morić A small yet very lovely gallery that offers a great selection of paintings by Croatian academic painters.

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A true insight into Croatian fine art!QJ-1, Sinjska 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 51 31/(+385-) 091 515 73 57, galerijamoric@st.t-com.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A Paparella Yet another charming art gallery where all art lovers can find something to catch the eye, from paintings to lamps to small boat models…all decorated and created with a lot of love and taste.QJ-2, Dominisova 7, tel. (+385-21) 34 40 78. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 13:00. Closed Sun. Studio Naranča Local graphic artist Pavo Majić and his wife have been at it for years - exhibiting and selling their artwork, hosting exhibits by Croatian and international artists and participating in the local art scene. Stop by their small, but impressive, gallery and show them some love.QJ-2, Majstora Jurja 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 41 18, pavo.studionaranca@ gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 22:00. A

Croatian design Ledenko Shoe boutique with exquisite, attention to detail handmade Croatian design high-heeled shoes proven to be the winning formula for that special occasion.QD-2/I-1, Kačićeva 7, tel. (+358-21) 48 67 53/(+385-) 091 444 43 05, info@ledenko.hr, www.ledenko.hr. Open 09:00 14:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

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Shopping Think Pink One of Split’s concept stores which opened in 2004 and where you can find interesting and original clothes, shoes and jewellery, all made by Croatian designers. Fashion at its best! Also at (J-2) Marulićeva 1, Open 08:30 - 22:00.QI2, Zadarska 8, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 26, thinkpinksplit@ gmail.com. Open 08:30 - 22:00. JA

Delicatessen Bio&Bio Probably the best selection of health food and natural cosmetics you’ve ever seen.QI-2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 30 76, st2@biobio.com.hr, www.biobio.hr.

Blato1902 Wine, olive oil, brandy and rakija (grappa) from the Blato1902 company derive from the island of Korčula.QE-2, Domovinskog rata 31, www.blato1902.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A Dalmacijavino A wide variety of juices and other beverages offered, of which the most famous is produced by the brand, ‘Pipi.’

QI-2, Ulica Bana Josipa Jelačića 13. Open 08:00 - 24:00.

Dobro jutro Titled ‘good morning’, this bakery is chock block with customers thanks to its tasty fresh bread, local pastries and cakes such as sirnica, kroštule and more. They also have fresh goats milk.QD-2, Domovinskog rata 1. Open 06:00 - 20:00, Sun 06:30 - 13:30.

Dolcezza Chocolate delights including pralines, ice creams and cakes are just some of the desserts on offer, as well as those with a more traditional twist such as sirnice, fritule or kroštule. Also at I-2, Bosanska 16, tel. 021 36 00 21, Open 08:00 - 23:00.QI-2, Šubićeva 2, tel. (+385-21) 38 38 52.

Open 08:00 - 23:00. A Franja coffee Exotic coffee and tea destinations wait for you to take them home in vacuumsealed bags.QI-2, Trg Braće Radić 5, tel. (+385-21) 34 50 64/(+385-) 091 247 90 23, www. franja.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 23:00. A Gligora Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.QD-3, Stari Pazar, Nathodnik bb, tel. (+385-21) 27 42 59, www.sirena.hr. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 14:30, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. A

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Shopping Judita - gourmet & wine shop Set in the heart of historical Split, the stone walls of the ancient city create the perfect setting for top class Dalmatian wines and the finest virgin olive oil.QJ-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 35 51 47, judita.split@yahoo.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. A Kraš Croatian factory of candies and sweets of all kinds. Award winning, bring your sweet tooth and try Bajadere and Griotte!QI-2, Narodni trg 6, tel. (+385-21) 34 61 38, www. kras.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A Nadalina Original Croatian chocolate spreads, pralines and chocolate with extras flavours and nuts such as cinnamon, lavender or almonds are what makes these so special. And delicious, may we add!QJ-2, Dioklecijanova 6, tel. (+385) 091 210 88 89. Open 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. A Oleoteka Uje Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’. Also at (I-2) Šubićeva 6, Open 09:00 - 21:00.QJ-2, Marulićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 19, info@uje.hr, www. uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. July 15 - August 15 Open 09:00 - 22:00. A

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Croatian compilation of various lounge music styles

Orao A little Dalmatian sensation located away from the main road, but don’t let that discourage you! Authentic proscioutto and cheese from the Šibenik and Zadar County which can be bought in whole pieces or have sliced. You won’t be disappointed if you love such antipasta type delicacies.QD-2, Domovinskog rata 27a, tel. (+385-21) 31 55 00. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:30-19:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sun. A Pipi Authentic Croatian Fanta! That is the only way to describe this tasty, bubbly carbonated soft drink which has marked its 80th production anniversary in Croatia. With its long history and unforgettable TV adverts from the 80’s, Pipi has become one of the legendary beverages of Croatia, and especially the Dalmatian region.QD-2, P.I.Čajkovskog 1, tel. (+385-) 091 403 33 62, www.dalmacijavino.hr.

Open 08:00 - 01:00.

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D S

Shopping

Meet Croatian inventors through the charming and cheerful collection Lana’s DuckAss, which can be found at Tilly Design, Zadarska 3 or at www.duckass.net

Split Tea House Enter, pause, inhale, pause, exhale… The scent of the world etching at your nostrils! Tea lovers choose from over 240 different world teas weather for health, diet, beauty, or complexion. There is green tea, yellow tea, white and black tea, etc. Tea pots and products are available and all at affordable prices.QI-2, Kralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-21) 33 23 58, info@kucacaja-split.hr, www.kucacaja-split.hr.

Open 08:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

Atelier Perajica This fantastic little atelier is a wonderful place to get lost in your thoughts or to pick up something unique as a gift. Right on the Peristyle in Split’s ancient core, three generations of photographers have kept their family studio here, amassing an unparalleled photodocumentary of Split nostalgic and modern. The current owner, art theorist and critic Dr Ana Perajica, has some unusual creations including photos printed on canvas and fringed with handmade lace: voilà! Drinks mats! A functional keepsake that’s cool. There’s also a wonderful collection of photos of all sizes of Croatian artisan lace, including the UNESCO-listed agave lace made by nuns on Hvar island, and another featuring treasures from the deep such as sponges, seahorses and coral.QJ-2, Peristil bb, tel. (+385-21) 34 46 46, contact@atelierperajica.com, www.atelierperajica. com. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

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Specialty Havana Cigar Shop Cigars, from Cuba and Dominican Republic. Smoke it up, dudes.QI-2, Zadarska 3, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 97, split@havana-cigar-shop.com, www.camelot.hr, Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Vinoteka Štorija Near the Grgur Ninski statue, one can find the best premium Croatian wines and original souvenirs in olive oil, organic soaps with Dalmatian herbal flavours, lavender scented bags…QI-2, Bosanska 11, tel. (+385-) 091 562 77 46, damiraskare@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00.

A Vinoteka Viola Located in the heart of Split, this wine store won’t leave you disappointed. Here you will be able to find and sample a wide range of superb wines that will surely deepen your love for vino!QD-2, Ulica Ivana Gundulića 36, tel. (+38521) 48 01 13, info@vinoteka-viola.com, www.vinotekaviola.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. A

Souvenirs

Sp

Cro fan shop - Hajduk Soccer mania is here with memorabilia from the Croatian National Team and the city’s most loved Hajduk Split FC. Find jerseys, caps, bags, pendants, flags and more. Get into the spirit!QI-2, Trogirska 10, tel. (+385-21) 34 30 96, www.cro-fan-shop.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. A Split.inyourpocket.com

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Kral

DISCOUNTS AT ARGENTUM SILVER JEWELLERY STORES A

rgentum stores throughout the country offer some discount silver jewellery, perfect as a souvenir from Croatia! Argentum is the biggest jewellery chain of fifty stores in Croatia whose "icon" is OrnelaVištica, one of the most popular young Croatian actresses and a TV star. Silver jewellery has always been considered fashionable, and this summer croatian traditional silver jewellery in vibrant colours called “botuni” is particularly in high demand. Intensely coloured details that ornament the pieces from the latest Argentum’s jewellery collection perfectly fit the new fashion trends, and Ornela Vištica was the right choice of model icon to display it.

In addition to jewellery sale, Argentum is also offering a ‘new-for-old’ replacement.

So you can take your old, forgotten and damaged jewellery to any of Argentum stores and replace it with new, modern piece from their jewellery assortment.

Argentum.hr

Split

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Shopping

Morpurgo Enter the oldest book store in the world and take in its history. At the age of 20, Vid Morpurgo, a Jewish immigrant opened this store 150 years ago on Split’s National Square; in its jubilee, the city commemorates this milestone and this man’s willingness to promote Croatian literature, and find a meeting place for the cultured.QI-2, Narodni trg 16, tel. (+385-21) 34 68 43. Open 08:00 - 20:30. Closed Sun. A Spalato The authentic store perfect for that take home memoir souvenir! Popular items include handcrafted glass, jewellery made of Brač stone, Adriatic shellfish, and Istrian bull horns just to name a few.QJ-2, Dioklecijanova 2, tel. (+385-21) 49 09 30/(+385-) 091 456 95 45, lidija. hodzic2@gmail.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00. June - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. A

Chic & Cheerful Get get get One store that has ‘made in Croatia’ written all over it! It is a small designer shop in the heart of town run by a group of artists aiming to create, exhibit and sell their products. The works of academic painters, photographers, architects and others are presented; good products that are unique and not made for the masses.

QJ-2, Dominisova 16, tel. (+385-21) 34 10 15, info@ getgetget.com.hr, www.getgetget.com.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A Dark Red, Marina Marinski (You can buy small bowls at Get Get Get, Dominisova 16)

Try various delicious cheeses and jam of figs and oranges

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Hotels 5 stars Atrium QJ-1, Domovinskog rata 49a, tel. (+385-21) 20 00 00, fax (+385-21) 20 01 00, info@hotel-atrium. hr, www.hotel-atrium.hr. 128 rooms (113 doubles €225 - 260, 4 suites €550, 11 Executive Rooms €290).

PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh

4 stars BEST WESTERN Art Hotel QD-2, Ulica slobode 41, tel. (+385-21) 30 23 02, fax (+385-21) 30 23 00, prodaja@arthotel.hr, www.arthotel. hr. 36 rooms (36 singles €125, 36 doubles €165 - 185).

PiHARUFLGBKDW hhhh Dalmina QE-1, Kopilica 5, tel. (+385-21) 35 00 00, fax (+385-21) 35 00 01, prodaja@hoteldalmina.hr, www.hoteldalmina. hr. 52 rooms (8 singles 600 - 684kn, 4 suites 600 - 684kn, 18 Twin Rooms 400 - 684kn). PiHAULGB� KXW hhhh Globo QD-2, Lovretska 18, tel. (+385-21) 48 11 11, fax (+38521) 48 11 18, info@hotelglobo.com, www.hotelgobo. com. 33 rooms (8 singles €139, 20 doubles €178, 5 triples €217). PiHALGKW hhhh Luxe QD-3, Kralja Zvonimira 6, tel. (+385-21) 31 44 44, fax (+385-21) 31 44 45, reservations@hotelluxesplit.com, www.hotelluxesplit.com. 30 rooms (3 singles €140 235, 24 doubles €140 - 350, 1 Deluxe Suites €400 - 500, 2 Prestige Suite €250 - 350). PiHA6FLG� DXW hhhh Marmont QI-2, Zadarska 13, tel. (+385-21) 30 80 60/(+385) 091 129 01 99, fax (+385-21) 30 80 70, booking@ marmonthotel.com, www.marmonthotel.com. 22 rooms (21 singles €180 - 273, 21 doubles €186 - 320, 1 Presidential Suite €1080). PiALGBKXW hhhh

Radisson Blu Resort Split QF-3, Put Trstenika 19, tel. (+385-21) 30 30 30, fax (+385-21) 30 30 31, info.split@radissonblu.com, www. radissonblu.com/resort-split. 250 rooms (16 singles €150 - 210, 204 doubles €170 - 340, 17 Junior Suites €285 - 520, 8 Senior Suites €525 - 620, 3 Family Rooms €310 - 370, 2 Presidential Suites €2500 - 3500). PTHA� R6UFLGBKDCW hhhh Vestibul Palace QJ-2, Iza Vestibula 4a, tel. (+385-21) 32 93 29, fax (+385-21) 32 93 33, info@vestibulpalace.com, www. vestibulpalace.com. 11 rooms (4 singles €355 - 455, 5 doubles €375 - 475, 1 suite €650 - 800, 1 Junior Suite €480 - 620). PiTJALGBKW hhhh

3 stars Adriana QI-2, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 00 00, fax (+385-21) 34 00 08, info@hoteladriana.hr, www.hotel-adriana.hr. 15 rooms (2 singles €75 - 103, 11 doubles €103 - 151, 2 apartments €103 191). PiJA6GBKXW hhh Bellevue QI-2, Bana Josipa Jelaćiča 2, tel. (+385-21) 34 56 44, fax (+385-21) 36 23 83, rezervacije@hotel-bellevue-split.hr, www.hotel-bellevue-split.hr. 48 rooms (39 singles 400 - 500kn, 39 doubles 550 - 700kn, 6 triples 650 - 850kn, 3 apartments 750 - 950kn). iALBKXW hhh Consul QD-2, Tršćanska 34, tel. (+385-21) 34 01 30, fax (+38521) 34 01 33, hotel-consul@st.t-com.hr, www.hotelconsul.net. 19 rooms (4 singles 620kn, 9 doubles 850kn, 2 triples 990kn, 4 apartments 1200kn). PiHAL� GBKXW hhh

SYMBOL key

Park QD-3, Hatzeov perivoj 3, tel. (+385-21) 40 64 00, fax (+385-21) 40 64 01, sales@hotelpark-split.hr, www. hotelpark-split.hr. Closed from October 4. 57 rooms (21 singles €124 - 134, 33 doubles €162 - 204, 2 Junior Suites €317 - 365, 1 Presidential Suite €500).

PHAR6LGBKDW hhhh

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

President QD-2, Starčevićeva 1, tel. (+385-21) 30 52 22, fax (+385-21) 30 52 25, info@hotelpresident.hr, www. hotelpresident.hr. 71 rooms (6 singles 915kn, 55 doubles 1200kn, 6 suites 1825kn, 4 Presidential Suites 2650kn). PZiHA6ULGBKW hhhh

K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

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O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly

B Outside seating

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Hotels

Dujam QE-2, Velebitska 27, tel. (+385-21) 53 80 25, fax (+38521) 53 72 58, info@hoteldujam.com, www.hoteldujam. com. 35 rooms (4 singles €53 - 68, 29 doubles €73 - 95, 2 apartments €87 - 113). PiHALGKW hhh Kastel QI-2, Mihovilova širina 5, tel./fax (+385-21) 34 39 12, tel. (+385-) 091 120 03 48, info@kastelsplit.com, www. kastelsplit.com. 10 rooms (1 single €115 - 125, 3 doubles €125 - 135, 1 triple €170 - 180, 2 apartments €210 - 220, 1 Studio Apartment €125 - 135, 2 Twin Rooms €125 135). PiJAGW hhh More QF-3, Šetalište pape Ivana Pavla ll 27/l, tel. (+385-21) 46 21 12/(+385-21) 46 21 77, fax (+385+21) 46 22 01, hotelmore@hotelmore.hr, www.hotelmore.hr. 9 rooms (8 singles €96 - 170, 8 doubles €110 - 230, 1 suite €150 230). PiALGXW hhh Peristil QJ-2, Poljana kraljice Jelene 5, tel. (+385-21) 32 90 70, fax (+385-21) 32 90 88, booking@hotelperistil.com, www.hotelperistil.com. 12 rooms (3 singles €135, 9 doubles €162). PiA6GBKXW hhh Slavija QI-2, Andrije Buvine 2, tel. (+385-21) 32 38 40, fax (+38521) 32 38 68, info@hotelslavija.hr, www.hotelslavija.hr.

25 rooms (6 singles €113 - 126, 11 doubles €144 - 166, 8 triples €170 - 180). PiA6LGXW hhh

Hostels Diocletian’s Palace QD-3 Nepotova 4, tel. (+385-) 098 85 81 41, hostel@ diocletianpalace.com, www.diocletianpalace. com. 50 dorm beds, 15 - 20€ per person.

PJAGXW Emanuel QD-2/D-3, Tolstojeva 20, tel. (+385-21) 78 65 33/ (+385-) 098 43 65 56, hostelemanuel@gmail.com.

15 dorm beds, 20 - 28€ per person. PAGW Golly&Bossy QI-2, Morpurgova poljana 2, tel. (+385-21) 51 09 99, info@gollybossy.com, www.gollybossy.com. 87 dorm beds, 27 - 33€ per person. PJHAG� BKW Silver Central QI-2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-21) 49 08 05/ (+385-) 098 21 82 57, silvercentralhostel@gmail. com, www.silvercentralhostel.com. 26 dorm beds, 130 - 190kn per person. PJNGW Silver Gate QD-3, Hrvojeva 6, tel. (+385-21) 32 28 57/(+385-) 098 911 90 34, silvergatehostel@gmail.com, www. silvergatehostel.com. 26 dorm beds, 130 - 190kn per person. PNGW Split Hostel Booze and Snooze QI-2, Narodni trg 8, tel. (+385-21) 34 27 87, info@ splithostel.com, www.splithostel.com. 16 dorm beds, 12 - 25€ per person. PNGW Sunseekers QI-2, Poljana stare gimnazije 1, tel. (+385-) 091 521 64 52, sunseekers@net.hr. 18 dorm beds, 110 150kn per person. PJNGW Tchaikovsky Hostel QD-2, Ulica Petra Iliča Čajkovskog 4, tel. (+385-21) 31 71 24/(+385-) 099 195 04 44, info@tchaikovskyhostel.com, www.t-hostel. com. 20 dorm beds, 110 - 180kn per person.

PJAGW

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Directory Business connections

Postal rates

Croatian Chamber of Economy - Split Chamber (Županijska komora Split) QH-3, Trumbićeva obala 4, tel. (+385-21) 32 11 00, hgkst@hgk.hr, www.hgk.hr. Open 07:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun.

Letters up to 50 gr Croatia 3.10 kn Abroad 7.60 kn Postcrads Croatia 2.80 kn Abroad 4.60 kn

Croatian Chamber of trades and crafts - Split Dalmatia County (Obrtnička komora Splitsko-dalmatinske županije) QF-3, Ruđera Boškovića 28, tel. (+385-21) 47 01 14, ok.split@hok.hr, www.oksdz.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Sweden QK-1/2, Držićeva 8, tel. (+385-21) 33 82 34/(+385-) 091 221 55 01, fax (+385-21) 31 45 30. Open 10:00 - 12:00.

Closed Sat, Sun.

Consulates

Switzerland QStrožanačka 20, Podstrana, tel. (+385-21) 42 04 22/ (+385-) 095 912 12 42, fax (+385-21) 42 04 21. Open 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Denmark Please make an appointment before visiting.QE-3, Matice Hrvatske 15, tel. (+385-21) 55 86 00/(+385-) 098 984 44 28, danmark-hc@igh.hr, www.ambzagreb.um.dk.

Open 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

UK QI-2/I-3, Obala hrvatskog narodnog preporoda 10/III, tel. (+385-1) 600 91 00, fax (+385-21) 36 29 05, zagreb. consular@fco.gov.uk, www.gov.uk/government/ world/croatia. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Finland Please arrange an appointment.QH-3, Trumbićeva obala 5, tel. (+385-) 091 339 12 12, milan.senjanovic@vip.hr, www.finland.hr.

Dry cleaners & Laundries

Honorary Consul of Hungary QIvana Gundulića 26a/II, tel. (+385-21) 48 00 19, fax (+385-21) 38 02 03, hungconsulate.st@email.t-com.hr.

Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Hungary QC-2/H-1, A.G.Matoša 48/II, tel. (+385-) 099 558 55 55, ConsulSPL@mfa.gov.hu, www.konzuliszolgalat. kormany.hu. From June 15 - September 15 Open by prior arrangement.

Malta QI-3/J-3, Obala Lazareta 2, tel. (+385-21) 40 51 00, maltaconsul.split@batinica.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. Mexico QB-3, Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 82a, tel. (+385-21) 35 88 24. Open Mon 18:00 - 20:00 and on request.

Russia QD-2, Starčevićeva 24a, tel. (+385-21) 48 44 45/(+385) 098 954 86 70. Open 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun. Slovenia QD-2, Istarska 9, tel./fax (+385-21) 38 92 24, generalni. konzulat.rep.slovenije@st.t-com.hr. Open 09:30 - 12:30.

Closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/SplitInYourPocket

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Relucesco Laundrette Split QC-2, Plinarska 28, tel. (+385-21) 78 28 08. Open 09:30 17:30. Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00-20:00 Self Service Laundrette QH-2, Šperun 1, tel. (+385-21) 31 58 88. Open 08:00 21:00.

Post If all you need to do is send a postcard or a letter, you can buy stamps on pretty much any kiosk, just make sure they’re right value for what you are sending and where.

Once you put it on, drop your mail in any post box.These are the small yellow boxes attached to buildings around town.

Main post office QE-1, Hercegovačka 1, tel. (+385-21) 34 24 17/(+385-21) 34 24 19. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

24-hour pharmacies Lučac QE-3, Josipa Pupačića 4, tel. (+385-21) 53 31 88, ljekarnasplit@ljekarnasplit.hr, www.ljekarnasdz.hr.

Open 00:00 - 24:00. A Prima Pharme QG-2, Kralja Držislava 22 (Super Konzum), tel. (+385-21) 32 55 04, sine@primapharme.hr, www. primapharme.hr. Open 00:00 - 24:00. A Summer 2014

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Street register

Zlatni rat, Photo by Mirna Balkić A. Cesarca C-3 Ante Petravića E-1/F-1 Antuna Branka Šimića E-3 Arapova C-2, H-2 Babina C-3, H-3 Bakotićeva C-2 Ban Mladenova C-3/D-3, H-2 Ban Berislavićeva C-2 Bana Josipa Jelačića I-2 Barakovićeva E-3 Barešićeva F-2/G-2 Barićeva H-2 Bartola Kašića C-3 Begovićeva C-3 Benkovačka E-2 Bernarda Vukasa E-2 Bihaćka D-2, J-1 Bijankinijeva D-3, K-3 Bilanova H-2 Bilice I G-1 Bilice II G-1 Biogradska G-3 Biokovska D-2, K-1 Biserova C-2/D-2, I-1 Bjelovarska E-2 Blatine E-3 Blaža Trogiranina B-3 Bleiburških žrtava D-2 Boktuljin put E-1/E-2/F-1/F-2 Bolska D-2, K-1 Borčićeva C-3, H-2 Bosanska I-2 Botićevo šetalište C-3 Bože Peričića E-3 Bračka F-3 BračkaUvala Zenta E-3 Brajevića prilaz H-3 Branimirova obala C-3, H-3 Bregovita D-3 Bribirska D-2, J-1

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Brune Bušića E-2 Bubalova K-3 Bukovčeva D-3 Bulićeva J-2 Buvnina I-2 Catanijin put C-3 Cesta mira F-2 Cosmijeva I-2 Cvjetna E-3 Čiovska B-3 Čulića dvori D-2/D-3, J-2 Ćiril-Metodova D-2, I-2 Dinarska E-2 Dinka Šimunovića F-3 Dioklecijanova J-2 Dobrić I-2 Dobrilina E-3/F-3 Domaldova I-2 Dominisova J-2 Domovinskog rata E-2/F-2, J-1 Doverska F-3/G-3 Drage Ivaniševića E-2 Dragovode G-2 Dražanac C-3, H-3 Drniška E-1/F-1 Drvenička B-3 Držićeva D-2 DržićevaK-1/K-2 Dubrovačka D-2/E-2 Dumanića K-3 Duplančića dvori K-2/K-3 Duvanjska D-3 Fra Bonina C-2 Fra Grge Martića E-2 Fra Luje Maruna K-2 Franje Račkog D-2, K-1 Gajeva C-2, H-1 Getaldićeva F-2 Glagoljaška D-3, K-2 Gorička D-2, J-1/K-1

Gorski put F-1/F-2/G-1 Gospinica E-3 Grada Antofagaste C-2 Gradišćanskih Hrvata F-1 Grge Novaka E-2 Gundulićeva D-2 Harambašićeva C-2, H-1 Hektorovićeva E-3 Hercegovačka E-1 Hrvatske mornarice C-2/D-2 Hrvatskih iseljenika D-2 Hrvojeva D-3, J-2/J-3 Hvarska D-3, K-3 I. G. Kovačića D-3 Ilićev prolaz I-2 Iločka E-2 Imotska F-1 Ispod Sv. Lovre G-3 Istarska D-2, J-1/J-2/K-1 Ivana Pl. Zajca E-3/F-3 Ivana Raosa F-1 Jadranska D-3 Jakova Gotovca F-2 Janjevska F-2/G-2 Jerina H-2 Jerolima Kavanjina I-1 Jesenička K-3 Jobova C-2 Kačićeva D-2, I-1 Kamenita C-2, H-1/H-2 Kapićeva E-3 Karamanova C-2 Karlovačka E-2 Kaštelanova E-3 Kaštelanska C-2 Katalinićev prilaz D-3 Kijevska F-2 Klaićeva poljana I-2 Klarina D-3, K-3 Kliška D-2

Kliška J-1 Kneza Lj. Posavskog D-2 Kneza Mislava D-3, K-2 Kneza Višeslava D-2/D-3, K-2 Kninska D-2, I-2 Kocunarski prilaz E-2/F-2 Kolombatićevo šetalište B-2/C2/C-3 Komulovića put D-1/D-2/E-1/E-2 Kopilica E-1 Kotorska G-3 Kozjačka C-2, H-1/H-2 Kragićeva H-1 Kraj Zlatnih Vrata J-2 Kralja Stjepana Držislava G-2/G-3 Kralja Tomislava D-2, I-2/J-2 Kralja Zvonimira D-3/E-3, J-3 Kranjčevićeva E-3 Krbavska F-2 Krešimirova J-2 Križanićeva E-2 Križine F-3 Krležina E-2 Kroz smrdečac F-3 Krste Odaka E-3 Krstulovića dvori J-1/J-2 Kruševića gumno J-1 Kukočeva K-3 Kukuljevićeva E-2 Kumičićeva E-1 Kupreška F-1 Kuzmanićeva K-3 Kuzmića F-1, K-3 Kvaternikova D-2 Laginjina E-2 Lazarica E-3 Lička F-1 Livanjska D-2, J-1 Lovački put G-2 Lovretska D-2 Lovrićeve skale E-3

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Split vodic - 7.indd 77

Summer 2014

77

6.6.2014. 17:57:51

Street register Lučica C-2 Lučićeva D-2, F-3 Ljubuška F-1 Makarska G-3 Mandalinski put C-2 Manđerova Manuška poljana J-1 Marangunićevo šetalište A-3 Marasovića C-3, H-3 Marjanski put B-3 Marjanski tunel C-3 Marmontova D-2, I-2/J-1 Marulićeva J-2 Matice Hrvatske E-2/E-3/F-2 Matije Gupca D-3 Matije Ivanića E-2 Matoševa C-2, H-1 Matošića D-2, I-2 Mažuranićevo šetalište D-2 Mediteranski put C-1 Mejaši I G-2 Mejaši II G-2 Mihanovićeva B-3/C-3 Mile Gojsalića D-3 Milićeva C-2/C-3, H-2 Mišina F-2

Mitnička E-3 Moliških Hrvata F-3 Mosećka E-2/F-2 Mosorska D-3, K-3 Mostarska F-1 Mostine G-1 Mrčelina I-2 Na Križice E-3 Na Toć J-3 Narodni trg D-3, I-2 Nazorova C-2/C-3, H-1 Nelipćeva D-3, I-2 Nepotova D-3 Neslanovac F-1 Nigerova I-2 Ninska F-2 Nodilova D-2, I-2/J-2 Njegoševa C-3 Obala Hrvatskoga narodnoga preporoda D-3, I-2/I-3 Obala Kneza Domagoja D-3, J-3 Obala Lazareta I-3/J-3 Obrov D-3, I-2 Odeska G-3 Omiška D-3, K-3 Osječka E-2/E-3

Photo by Sandor Ujszaszi

Photo by Katarina Guina Radić

78 Split In Your Pocket

Split vodic - 7.indd 78

Photo by Mirna Balkić

Ostravska G-2 Ozaljska F-2/G-2 Palmina C-3, H-2/H-3 Palmotićeva D-3/E-3 Papalićeva J-2 Papandopulova F-3 Pavla R. Vitezovića F-2 Pazinska F-2 Penića H-2 Perića C-3 Perišićeva C-3, H-2 Perivoj Ane Roje F-2 Pervanova K-3 Petra Kružića I-2 Petrićeva K-2/K-3 Petrinjska E-2 Petrova D-3, J-3/K-3 Pistura I-2 Plančićeva C-2 Plinarska C-2, H-1 Plitvička E-1 Pod Kosom C-3 Podgorska C-2, H-1 Podrum J-2/J-3 Pojišanska D-3, K-3 Poljička cesta E-3/F-3 Poljudsko šetalište C-1 Popovićeva I-2 Porinova D-2, I-1 Požeška E-2 Pujanke F-2 Puntarska C-2 Pupačićeva E-3 Put Brda F-1 Put Brodarice D-2 Put Dragovoda G-2 Put Duja E-1 Put Firula E-3 Put Glavičina D-2 Put iza nove bolnice E-3 Put Meja C-3 Put Mostina G-1 Put Pazdigrada G-3 Put Plokita D-2 Put Ravnih Njiva F-1 Put Sjeverne Luke F-1 Put Skalica C-2/D-2 Put Smokvice F-1 Put Supavla D-1 Put Sv. Lovre G-2/G-3 Put Trstenika F-3 Put Žnjana F-3/G-3 R. Boškovića E-3/F-3 R. Katalinića Jeretova F-2 Radmilovića C-2, H-1 Radnička E-2 Radovanova D-3, J-3 Radunica D-3, J-2 Ramska E-1 Reića C-3, H-2 Reljkovićeva D-2, K-2 Rendićeva C-2 Riječka J-1 Rodrigina I-2/J-2 Rokova D-3, J-2/K-2 Rooseweltova E-3 Sarajevska F-1 Savska D-2/E-2 Senjska C-3, H-2 Severova D-3, J-3 Sinovčića H-2 Sinjska D-2, J-1 Siriščevića H-2/H-3 Skradinska G-3 Slavićeva C-2, J-1 Slavonska E-2 Smiljanićeva D-2, K-2 Solinska F-1/G-1 Solurat C-3, H-3 Spinčićeva E-3 Spinutska C-2 Sredmanuška J-2 Stagnja H-2 Starčevićeva D-2 Stari Pazar D-3, J-3 Stepinčeva E-2 Stinice E-1

Stoci G-1 Stonska G-3 Studinova F-2 Sućidar E-2 Sukoišanska D-2 Supilova B-3 Sustipanski put C-3 Sutroičin put C-1/D-1 Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-2 Svačićeva D-2, I-1 Svetog Križa C-2/C-3/D-2/D-3, H-2 Svilajska E-2 Š. Bačvice D-3 Šegvićeva J-3/K-3 Šenoina C-3, H-2 Šetalište BeneGunjačina B-2 Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića A-3 Šetalište Marina Tartaglie A-2/B2/C-2 Šibenska E-2 Šižgorićeva E-2/E-3 Škrape E-3 Šoltanska F-3 Šopova G-2 Šperun C-3, H-2 Šubićeva I-2 Table D-2 Teslina C-2 Težački put G-2 Tijardovićeva F-2 Tolstojeva D-2/D-3, J-2/K-1 Tomića Stine H-2 Tončićeva D-2/D-3, I-2 Trg Braće Radić I-2 Trg Gaje Bulata I-1 Trg Republike C-3/D-3, I-2 Triljska F-1 Trogirska D-2/D-3, I-2 Trondheimska F-2/F-3 Trpimirova D-3, J-3 Trstenik F-3 Tršćanska D-2 Trumbićeva obala C-3, H-3 Trumbučac J-3/K-3 Ulica Slobode D-2 Uskočka E-3 Uvala Baluni C-3 V. Krstulovića E-3 V. Lisinskog C-2/C-3 Valpovačka E-2 Varaždinska E-2 Velebitska D-2/E-2 Vesanovića K-3 Vetranićeva C-3 Vidilica D-3 Vijugasta H-1 Viktora Vide G-2 Vinka Draganje E-2 Vinkovačka E-2 Vinodolska F-2 Viskotina K-3 Visoka F-2 Viška D-3 Vjekoslava Paraća E-2 Vladimira Gortana H-2 Vrančićeva E-2 Vranjički put E-1/F-1 Vrgoračka G-2 Vrh Kmana E-2 Vrh Lučac D-3, K-3 Vrh Visoke F-2 Vrlička F-1 Vrzov Dolac D-3, K-2/K-3 Vukasovićeva D-2, J-2 Vukovarska D-2/E-2, K-1 Washingtonova D-2, K-1 Zadarska G-1, I-2 Zagorski put F-1/F-2/G-21 Zagrebačka D-2, J-2/J-3 Zbora narodne garde G-1/G-2 Zlodrina poljana D-3, J-3 Zoranićeva D-2, I-1 Zrinsko-Frankopanska C-2 Zupina F-2 Zvizdina J-3 Žmovnička D-3/E-3

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