Šibenik In Your Pocket No8

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Šibenik Summer 2018

Holding the fort UNESCO lists Dalmatia’s castles

N°8 - complimentary copy sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Croatian Cultural Dictionary Phrases that can’t be translated, only lived

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on

5

Holding the fort

14

38

Leisure

54

Recreation all-round

UNESCO lists Dalmatia’s castles

Restaurants

Surroundings Nature paradise

All you need is your pencil and diary

15

Shopping

56

Lunch or dinner, you pick

Take home the best memories and souvenirs

Croatian Cultural Dictionary 24

Where to stay 59

13 phrases that can’t be translated, only lived

Local Flavour

26

Arrival & Getting Around

28

Šibenik Basics

Keep tradition with cuisine

Coffe&Cakes What a pleasure

Nightlife

Places to stay for every pocket

30

Bop ‘till you drop

61

Lost? Have no fear, IYP is here 64

All the things you need to know about Šibenik

Maps County map City centre map

65 66

Sightseeing 32 Snap, camera, action

Šibenik Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Sky Action- Ivan Ercegović

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Summer 2018

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FOREWORD Šibenik is a town on the upswing; a real architectural jewel and yet not as exposed as Zadar and Split. It has its own unique atmosphere: relaxed and carefree.

It’s a city that has been — and continues to be — used as an inspiration for countless musicians, composers and songwriters. Its charm lies in the cobblestone streets and the inevitability of interacting with locals. There’s no specified tourist zone, as the whole city is a museum that begs to be explored. And topping things off is the fabulous Cathedral built by Juraj Dalmatinac, a UNESCO world heritage site.

The city’s fortresses provide breathtaking views that relieve stress, while an afternoon swim at either Jadrija or Banj beach is a good way to prepare for a night whilst cruising the town’s many cafes. Speaking of night, in recent years Šibenik has been dubbed with the slogan ‘the city is a stage’ due to so many gigs and events taking places in and around city streets and corners through to fortresses and squares. Not to mention the number of festivals that are taking place as we speak too. All of this can be found and more in our ‘What’s on?’ section.

Then of course, if you need a little more adventure on your holiday, the surrounding area is filled with national parks and islands that are waiting to be discovered.

No matter what you choose, we wish you an extended and warm summer holiday in the hope that you will take advantage of everything this grand city has to offer!

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1848-0365 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Šibenik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Frank Jelinčić, Jonathan Bousfield, Andrea Pisac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Research Dora Gaćeša Design Ivana Mihoković Photography Šibenik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Photo by Boris Kačan, Šibenik Tourist Board Archives Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina Štimac Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o.

Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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Pecsi Balett: Carmen, SzaboMarton & Ujvari Katalin, Šibenik Dance Festival Archives

What‘s on ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE SUMMER EVENTS IN ŠIBENIK AND SURROUNDINGS WHICH YOU MUSTN’T MISS... FROM CLASSIC AND TRADITIONAL, TO URBAN AND ACTIVE

What’s On BALLET & DANCE 22.07 21:00 » LADO - IDEJU REGRUTI Croatia’s most famous national folk ensemble Lado has prepared a programme entitled ‘Ideju regruti’ (The Recruits Are Coming) which includes a total of twelve choreographies.

Of interest are the three dances which showcase fragments of customs and traditions associated with the departure of young men entering the army, hence the title. Lado’s mesmerising costumes and dances will give you another picture of what Croatia is all about!QC‑2, St Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, 120kn, www.svmihovil.sibenik.hr.

23.07 - 28.07 » ŠIBENIK DANCE FESTIVAL

Can you picture top dance performances performed in medieval fortresses, Venetian squares and a 150 year old National Theatre? Then head to Šibenik with collaborative dance companies and productions putting on plays, dramas, workshops, choreographies, ballets and more. Šibenik has it all with shows such as ‘The Edge’ by Igor Kirov and ‘Carmen’ by Balázs Vincze just to name a few.

Visit https://www.facebook.com/SibenskiPlesniFestival/ for up to date information so you too can see how aesthetics and musical composition moves the soul!Qwww. sjene.hr.

ROCK & POP CONCERTS 25.07 21:00 » LP

American indie vocalist Laura Pergolizzi (LP) is visiting our shores for the first time and will no doubt rock the crowd at our very own St. Michael’s Fortress. Having written tracks for Rihanna, Cher, the Backstreet Boys and others, LP has shown that she not only writes but can rip into some amazing notes with her own tunes like, ‘Lost On You’, ‘When We’re High’ and ‘Muddy Waters’.QC‑2, St Mi‑ chael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, 330,00kn, www.svmihovil.sibenik.hr.

27.07 & 28.07 21:00 » MASSIMO

One of Croatia’s highly regarded pop-rock singers who has produced chart topping hits since the 80s. Just like a good wine, Massimo seems to get better with time. Many declare him to be Croatia’s David Bowie with startling resemblences in voice.QC‑2, St Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, 120 - 170kn, www.svmihovil. sibenik.hr.

04.08 20:00 » KRUDER & DORFMEISTER

This iconic Austrian duo from the 90s and pioneers of downtempo remixes of pop, hip hop, drum and bass songs are preforming in Croatia for the first time at the unique St. Michael’s Fortress. In celebrating their 25th anniversary, this performance will be even more special with impressive audio-visuals set up on stage. Hits include ‘High Noon’, ‘Black Baby’ and many others. QC‑2, St Mi‑ chael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, 240,00kn, www.svmihovil.sibenik.hr.

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14.08 21:00 » RÓISÍN MURPHY Ireland’s queen of the avant-garde is coming to St. Michael’s Fortress to parade not only her fashion couture but amazing vocal range. Murphy is best known as the lead singer of the former trip-hop duo Moloko but upon going solo has released four albums and her music fuses electronica and experimental/ dance pop. As an artist that never ceases to provoke, Murphy will merge her chilly yet gleeful voice to a whole new level.QC‑2, St Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, www. svmihovil.sibenik.hr.

05.09 20:00 » BRYAN FERRY Legendary vocalist Bryan Ferry is set to put on his charm at St. Michael’s Fortress as summer winds down. With only one-thousand tickets up for grabs, the evening will be quite memorable for his die-hard fans. Once a member of Roxy Music, the British icon went solo in the 1970s & 80s and had recorded multiple chart topping hits including ‘Avalon’, ‘Slave to Love’ and ‘Don’t Stop the Dance.’QC‑2, St Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, Sold out, www.svmihovil. sibenik.hr.

JAZZ & BLUES 19.07 - 21.07 » OFF JAZZ & BLUES FESTIVAL A three day jazz jostling, blues burning fešta as the locals would call it. Held since 2007, this musical treat continues to grow as it draws respectable Croatian and world jazz/ blues musicians and is set in the picturesque stone ambience of the Ivan Goran Kovačić Square.Qwww.offfestival. net.

20.07 - 22.07 » 16TH VODICE JAZZ & BLUES FESTIVAL There are those who unashamedly love jazz and those who live for jazz. See the lads and lasses of the eminent Croatian and world jazz scene with versatile styles of music from classical swing, rhythm and dixieland, to the more contemporary genres such as fusion and free jazz.

QVodice, Riva, www.vodice.hr.

02.08 21:00 » MARIO BIONDI Italian jazz/soul vocalist Mario Biondi will include songs from his latest album ‘Brasil’ which incorporates elements of pop and bossa nova too. Biondi had worked with some mega artists in the production of this project and naturally, Italy’s version of Barry White will jazzaciously jive the audience with classics such as ‘This is What You Are’, ‘Shine On’, and ‘What Have You Done to Me’. Thereafter, Alex Barck, one of the founders of the Berlin DJ Jazzanova collective with his legendary six member group will combine electronic and house music with jazz elements. An eclectic yet electric night waits!QC‑2, St Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, 250kn, www.svmihovil. sibenik.hr. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

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Summer 2018

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What’s On SPECIAL EVENTS 23.06, 22.09 » SUMMER BACCHANALIA

Turn Roman for one night in Vodice and its surrounding fields which are a perfect backdrop for staging an ancient feast dedicated to Bacchus, the god of wine and merriment. Participate in a parade of dance and song aimed at blessing vineyards and calling for a good crop. Reminisce the glory of Rome with ancient music, dance, recipes, food and wine. QVelika Mrdakovica - Rimska Cisterna Archaeological Site, www.vodice.hr.

01.07 - 26.08 » PRIMOŠTEN WEDDINGS AND FOLK DANCES BY THE KRČ CULTURAL SOCIETY

See the forgotten traditional wedding customs of old from the Primošten area. Witness the parade where all the participants are dressed in costume and dance traditional folklore on the main square. QRudina Square, Primošten, www.tz-primosten.hr.

02.07 - 08.07 » VODICE STREET FESTIVAL

Summer sizzles with the city’s streets, squares, parks and waterfronts turning into stages as acrobats, jugglers, musicians and artists fascinate passersby. And they will most certainly put a smile on your face!Qwww.vodice.hr.

05.07 - 13.09 » TRADITIONAL ACAPELLA EVENINGS

One of the unique aspects of Croatian culture has to be the tingling sounds of Dalmatian klapa (traditional acapella songs that are sung by a group of singers who vary the range in their vocal chords - from baritone to tenor).

Klape groups gather to make for an enjoyable Thursday evening in the Šibenik square.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II, www.sibenik-tourism.hr/en.

07.07 - 08.07 » LEGENDFEST

What do fairies look like? What makes them angry? If you cannot resist their intoxicating call and their seductive dance, then head to the Krka National Park and join them in the fairy dance next to the magical Roški Slap (Waterfall). But be careful, they might take you into their fairy kingdom and you may never return. Go back in time, where magic and mystery combine.QKrka National Park, Šibenska bb, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 45, www. legendfest.hr.

27.07 21:00 » AN EVENING OF ITALIAN CANZONE AND EVERGREENS

Sticking to the Adriatic, our Italian neighbours have given the world many beautiful sounds of canzone style music and this will be an evening dedicated to this melodic and harmonious genre. It features Croatian singer, wonderful tenor Vladimir Garić, accompanied by mezzo-soprano Nera Gojanović and Gordana Pavić on piano.QTrg Male Gospe, Skradin, www.skradin.hr/en.

03.08 - 04.08 » THE CORAL DIVERS SEND OFF

The island of Zlarin is famous for its precious corals and in keeping to tradition which dates back from the 13th century, you get to see the several stages of coral divers leaving the harbour in search of corals with 22 items used 8 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Soundwave Festival Archives

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What’s On particularly for that purpose. The ancient ceremony includes the original prayer with which a priest would bless the divers, a procession with flags and the blessing and exchange of food before they depart. Qwww.tz-zlarin.hr.

04.08 » VODICE FIESTA

The sparks are flying and this is one of the night in August deemed the craziest summer night in Vodice. Music can be heard at all city squares in all cafes; the town comes to life with a fireworks spectacle and a huge carnival/party type of atmosphere. QVodice, Riva, www.vodice.hr.

04.08 » FESTIVAL OF DALMATIAN KLAPA SKRADIN 2018

Picture a group of men, lined-up, dressed to a tea, singing without instruments but ranging their voices from baritone to bass, and all in harmony that even the angels from above would applaud. This is klapa music, authentic a capella music from Croatia. This annual fest draws the finest male/female klape performers which you simply need to hear, to believe!Qwww.skradin.hr/en.

13.08 » BURNUM IDES

Each year, this fantastic re-enactment of life as an ancient Roman legionnaire takes place at the Burnum Amphitheatre in Ivoševci. Step back in time and see presentations of legionnaire weaponry, ancient trades, fragrances and secret love options, various ancient skills (such as wax writing, the making of wooden toys and mosaics), clothes and make-up, fortune-telling from bones and other mythical madness. QKrka National Park, Šibenska bb, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 45, www.npkrka.hr.

17.08 - 18.08 » ŠIBENIK CHANSON FESTIVAL

This ancient city has chanson music carved in its very stones and the schedule is proof of that. The first, is an evening of international music and the second evening is a dalmatian chanson. All artists will perform live, together with the festival orchestra and ensembles.QD‑4, Trg Re‑ publike Hrvatske, www.sansona-sibenik.com.

23.08 - 26.08 » CHANGER

This unique cultural and tourist event takes place in the historic town of Šibenik across several locations. Organised as a series of meet ups, the event is designed for exchanging knowledge relating to technological, cultural, artistic and business changes and aims to raise professional and social standards. Each of those changes begins and ends with creativity and innovation. Musically, this year’s programme will also include performances by Jessie Ware, Inner Circle and Darko Rundek & Cargo Orkestar as headliners. Qwww.changer.hr.

25.08 » INTERNATIONAL BAT NIGHT Interested in learning more about the eay bats live? Now you can at the International Bat Night. Each year it is organized by EUROBATS and takes place in more then 30 countries. During this event, fun facts about bats are revealed through presentations, exhibitions and bat walks.

Don’t miss out on this extraordinary event taking place this August.QSkradin, www.npkrka.hr. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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What’s On

LP, Fortress of Culture Archives

29.08 » LIGHT IS LIFE

Let there be light! This marvellous project features night underwater lighting which stretches from the harbour dock of the Krka River to St. Jacob’s Cathedral in the old town of Šibenik. A little known fact is that Šibenik was the first Croatian town and one of the first cities in the world to receive public lighting on August 28, 1895 and each year, the town marks that historical date with a true spectacle that includes music and entertainment. Rays of light beam and reflect off the water and from beneath turning Šibenik into a fairy tale city. Qwww.sibenik-tourism.hr.

05.09 - 08.09 » FALIŠ

Fališ is a three-day event and political platform attended by supporters of far left political views and ideas and is held in late September in the old city centre. The event invokes rebellion, intellectual, civic and social consciousness, all in the name of social justice and equality. In addition to many domestic writers, intellectuals, critics and activists, the event also features prominent international guests and figures. Qwww.falis.com.hr.

07.09 - 09.09 » THE FAIR IN MEDIEVAL ŠIBENIK

Travel back in time and see Šibenik as it once was with actors retelling local ancient tales, plus street walkers, traditional folk costume and dance, gastronomy, knights, craftsmen and more. The event honours the feast of Saint Michael, patron to the city. You know those portrait faces surrounding the apsidal wreath around Saint James’ Cathedral; this is when their spirit comes to life.Qwww. sibenik-tourism.hr.

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Membrain Festival Archives

FESTIVALS 27.06 - 04.07 » LOVE INTERNATIONAL

Set in the charming little coastal town of Tisno this festival has become hugely popular with lovers of dance music from across the world swarming in for the sheer feel, intimacy and serene private bay overlooking the crystal sea and set amongst olive groves and nature. The festival consists of several different stages, parties and raves that last from dusk till dawn. Oh, did we mention the partying going afloat on the old vintage wooden boat ‘The Argonaughty’. QThe Garden Resort, Petrica Glava 34, Tisno, www.loveinternationalfestival.com.

03.07 - 08.07 » SALSA BEACH SPLASH FESTIVAL

See world artists and dance companies from Africa to Latin America perform at the ‘Solaris Beach Resort’, a stunning lagoon packed with pools, bars, restaurants, sunshades, and more. As a bonus, a free stage lit party will be held by Saint James Cathedral with a dance programme and a band performing live on Friday, July 6th. Rio look out!QSolaris Beach Resort, Hoteli Solaris 86, www. salsabeachsplash.com.

13.07 - 15.07 » REGIUS FESTIVAL #8

Šibenik will be home to three days of alternative music for all to see with rock, rap, ska, reggae, punk, DNB, dubstep, dub, electro and other music combos to be heard. By bringing bands from Croatia and neighbouring countries and by promoting good neighbourly relations, organissibenik.inyourpocket.com

What’s On

Friends of the Sea - Like in the Old Days Exhibition.

Photo by Mario Romulić & Dražen Stojčić

ers are actively working to reduce the negative aspects of nationalism in the region. The Dutch-New Zealand sensation ‘My Baby’ will headline with over 15 other performers lined-up across two stages. Music unites, music is might!QJ‑2, Banj, 20€, www.regius-festival.com.

18.07 - 25.07 » SUNCÉBEAT 9

Nine years running, the beats bounce on at Suncebeat with a feast of world DJs, party starting live acts and guest PA’s to help make sure that punters get that heartfelt experience. With underground House, Disco, Techno, Soul, R&B and Funk sounds, choose to chill at either the Beach Stage, Main Stage and the Olive Grove. Look out for Kerri Chandler, Louie Vega, Roger Sanchez and Jeremy Underground.QThe Garden Resort, Petrica Glava 34, Tisno, www.suncebeat.com.

26.07 - 30.07 » SOUNDWAVE 10: THE FINAL WAVE

In its 10th year, Soundwave is set to spark the Adriatic once again with a sublime list of artists to sooth the soul under the starry skies. Five days of magic will consist of Jordan Rakei, Romare, Submotion Orchestra, Horse Meat Disco, DJ Marky, Sons of Kemet, Channel One Soundsystem, Riot Jazz, Al Dobson Jr, Tenderlonious and the list is growing. QThe Garden Resort, Petrica Glava 34, Tisno, www. soundwavecroatia.com.

27.07 - 28.07 » TLM FESTIVAL

For the fourth year in a row, the ‘Too Loud Music Festival’ of alternative and underground electronic music will once facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

again be held in Ražine; the artists do change each year, but the location remains the same. After its initial success, organisers have raised the benchmark by hosting more top-notch side events, bands and DJs. QRažine.

06.08 - 08.08 » SUPERUHO FESTIVAL

In its fourth year, the SuperUho Festival takes place in Primošten and close to one of the most stunning beaches along the Adriatic. And what a line-up with Blue Hawaii, Chk Chk Chk, Earthless, John Maus, NLV, Turbonegro, Šumski and many more genre crossing acts. Don’t forget, camping is available and free WI-FI too!QPrimošten, 250 - 320kn, www.superuho.com.

09.08 - 12.08 » MEMBRAIN FESTIVAL

Dedicated to Bass Music where one can sense the vibe of the British underground club scene blending into the summer Mediterranean outdoors. Two total opposites that attract! It takes place at the Minerska bay with different packages available. Camping too! Four days, three stages and over 50 DJs from across Europe with headliners Leon Switch, Sepia, Filip Motovunski, Kodin, MC Toast, MC Gusto and many others.QMinerska Bay, www. membrainfestival.com.

09.08 - 14.08 » DEFECTED CROATIA

One of the most famous house music brands ‘Defected’ comes to Croatia to light up the Adriatic. Expect all-day beach sessions with daily boat parties for that true outdoor clubbing experience. The full festival repertoire embraces sub-themes such as Classic and Glitterbox, and Summer 2018

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What’s On others plus the finest house artists and underground DJ talents backed by a state of the art production. So who’s playing you ask? Dennis Ferrer, Roger Sanchez, Derrick Carter, Todd Terry, Claptone and more... QThe Garden Resort, Petrica Glava 34, Tisno, defected.com/croatia.

17.08 - 18.08 » BLAST FEST

This audio-visual festival event aimed at encouraging domestic performers to produce electronic music is hot on the heels second year running. Dazzling sounds and pictures merge together into one beautiful and positive wave of energy; presenting musical contrasts between darkness and light, black and white, hard and soft. Immerse your days and nights with music by the sea and dance away as you ‘illuminate’.QMinerska Bay, Free entrance, www. facebook.com/blastfestsibenik.

23.08 - 27.08 » DEKMANTEL SELECTORS

The focus here is on the art of DJing and looking at the talent and complexities of this craft. The 5 day event has a limited capacity of only 2000 tickets available where patrons are beachside by day and Barbarella’s Club at night.

A huge line-up of artists include the likes of Tom Trago, San Proper, Job Sifre, I-F, Gilb’R, Interstellar Funk, Identified Patient, DJ Harvey and Young Marco. And they’re just the night owls!QThe Garden Resort, Petrica Glava 34, Tisno, www.dekmantelselectors.com.

FILM 03.07 - 07.07 » SOLO POSITIVO FILM FESTIVAL

Finding the balance between music films and documentary films, or even gelling them together is what defines this event. Held across various locations which include the St. Michael’s fortress, visitors get to experience a five-day film feast along with a rich accompanying programme.

Highlights include ‘Oasis: Supersonic’ and ‘Conny Plank: Potential Noise’ documentaries.Qwww.spff.hr/hr.

22.07 - 27.07 » SUPERTOON - INTERNATIONAL ANIMATION FESTIVAL

Is animation your fascination? The Supertoon presents recent Croatian and international short animated films through an array of competitions and additional programmes. Do not miss the night sky projections, film screenings under the stars, workshops, and beach parties on hand.Qwww.supertoonfestival.com.

02.08 - 04.08 » DALMATIA FILM FESTIVAL

A film frenzy waits with this international festival of feature and short films, documentaries and travel/tourism films.

Under the motto ‘Dalmatia is my Lifeline’, the festival offers a selection of the best contemporary films from all three categories. All the guests and visitors will enjoy the film screenings under the stars and by the sea, in a pleasant summer night atmosphere. The festival takes place in several cities across Split-Dalmatia and the Šibenik-Knin counties.QPirovac, www.dalmatia-filmfestival.com/hr.

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EXHIBITIONS 20.07 - 27.07 » FRIENDS OF THE SEA: LIKE IN THE OLD DAYS

In its 9th edition, this transit exhibition and project takes place on the shores of the Adriatic and will have visited 13 Croatian destinations by September. It dwells into the world of photography and promotes the value of life on the Adriatic coast. Each year the event is viewed by over one million visitors and the 2018 exhibition will include 60 black and white records of the present-day Croatian Adriatic made in large format, yet visually replicating the golden age of fine art photography and geometric pure visuals of old times. Beautiful, classy and emotional – this is nostalgia at its finest. Qwww.prijateljimora.com.

SPORT 08.08 - 11.08 » TUNA FEVER ROGOZNICA 2018

With over one hundred competitors and dozens of racing boats, the competition is fearsome but most of all fun.

Four fever pitched days have action on and off shore too.

Visitors are also able to view the promotion of products and services, presentations of fishing knowledge and skills, take pleasure in the culinary delights but also focus on the four; fishing tradition, cuisine, tourism and entertainment. QRogoznica, www.loverogoznica.eu/.

FOOD & DRINK 15.06 » DRNIŠ INTERNATIONAL CHEESE FESTIVAL

Cheese lovers get your palettes ready with a banquet of various cheeses ready for trial. Over 50 exhibitors in attendance with the aim of promoting the production of cheese making and encouraging the creation of brands of indigenous and traditional cheeses. In addition to cheese producers, there are exhibited producers of other agricultural products (ham, honey, wine, oil, etc.). QDrniš, hgk. hr.

05.08 » BRGANJA DAY

A brganja is a traditional tool which is used to gather shells from the seafloor. Brganja Day is a day full of good food, good music, fireworks, and of course shells. There’s also a special regatta - Dlan i veslo or Palm and Paddle which sees the womenfolk race in old traditional wooden boats. Fun for all and then some! QBetina, Murter Island, www.tz-betina.hr.

11.08 » BRUDETIJADA

The 9th Brudetijada will once again be held on the wonderful little island of Zlarin, a local competition and feast where the islanders and their guests (all chef amateurs) compete together to make the best ‘brudet’ dish, a Dalmatian specialty (mixed seafood including crab, eel, shellfish etc). See ten teams cooking their secret recipes with the jury proclaiming the winner. Top food, top atmosphere to be had! Qwww.tz-zlarin.hr. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Holding the Fort: UNESCO lists Dalmatia’s castles Bearing in mind how often Dalmatia has been ravaged by warfare, it’s no surprise that so much of the region’s architectural heritage is of a military nature. Leaving a particularly heavy stamp on the region’s identity was the Venetian Republic, which ruled over much of Dalmatia from 1420 and 1797 and left more than just church belfries and town halls in its wake. The sixteenth century in particular was a period of prolific fortress building, the most outstanding examples of which were placed in the UNESCO World Heritage list in 2017. Under the title “Venetian Works of Defence” UNESCO grouped together several military masterpieces of the epoch, two of which are in Dalmatia – the city walls of Zadar and the St Nicholas’s Fortress in Šibenik.

It was in the sixteenth century that fortress architecture underwent significant changes, thanks in large partto the increasing use of artillery by both attackers and defenders.

Cities had to be defended by walls and bastions that were resistant to cannon balls and which also afforded plenty of fire positions for the defenders’ guns. Bastions in particular were becoming ever more complex, their star-shaped jutting geometry surrounded by complex earthworks in order to make them more resistant to storming tactics.

Military engineering, just like cathedral building or palace design, was becoming an art form.

Fortress construction was spurred on by the emergence of new dangers. Venice’s possessions in Dalmatia were increasingly under threat from the Ottoman Empire, which occupied the hinterland of both Zadar and Šibenik in the 1520s and rendered both cities exceedingly vulnerable to attack.

The man in charge of shoring up the Venetian Empire’s defenses was Michele Sanmicheli (1484-1559), the republic’s chief engineer and a prolific designer of public buildings, palaces and churches throughout northern Italy. The 1530s were an extraordinarily busy decade for Sanmicheli, who was supervising fortress construction in Verona and the Venetian Lido as well as travelling to the Adriatic and drawing up plans for Zadar and Šibenik.

His work in Zadar begun in 1537, with the demolition of whole residential districts to make way for the new walls, which stretched for some 3km round the peninsula-bound city centre. Bolstering Zadar’sdefences to the southeast were massive new landward-facing bastions such as the Grimani bastion, which rises above Trg pet bunara and now holds a small park. Sanmicheli’s masterpiece was the Land Gate (Porta Terraferma), built in 1543 in the form of a triumphal arch, decorated with reliefs of the city’s patron Saint Krševan and the lion of St Mark.

Development of Zadar’s fortifications continued throughout the sixteenth century: the huge Forte bastionon the eastern side of town (now Vladimir Nazor Park) was added in 1567, while a succession of ornamental gates were built on the northern side of city in the decades that followed.

All of the above now fall under UNESCO protection, with the addition of Trg pet bunara (“Five Wells’ Square”), where a huge cistern was built to provide drinking water during times of siege.

Šibenik Knin County Tourist Board Archives

At the same time as Zadar Sanmicheli was also working in Šibenik where, with the help of his nephew Giangirolamo, he designed one of the most graceful, iconic and aweinspiring sea fortresses of all time. Named after a Benedictine monastery that was demolished to make way for it, St Nicholas’s Fortress rises magisterially from an island at the mouth of St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow waterway that controls access to Šibenik’s port.

Joined to terra firma by a causeway, the remarkably wellpreserved fortress is a grandiose tribute to the era in which it was built, with gun positions looking out towards the Adriatic and a broad sweeping staircase burrowing down towards a complex of vaulted chambers below.

Šibenik Tourist Board Archives - Photo by Sky Action - Ivan Ercegović

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The fortress’s inclusion on the UNESCO list will enable Šibenik to embark on the next stage of its development plans, renovating not just the fortress itself but also improving access, cleaning up nearby beaches, and building a visitors’ centre in a former Yugoslav Army barracks. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

TRADITIONAL ADMIRAL If you’re close the Cathedral then Admiral is nearby.

Choose to dine in or out with an undercover terrace available. The cuisine is typically Mediterranean with seafood hot on the menu; octopus under the iron bell and the seafood platter are a treat. Other delights include various pastas, salads and meats. Their house wines (red and white) are popular and fair on the pocket. The perfect location for a break from sightseeing!QD‑4, Kralja Tomislava 15a, tel. (+385) 099 212 58 19. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (65 - 200kn).

P­T­J­A­G­B­K­S­W BARUN Based in a large family house midway between Brodarica and the Solaris complex, Barun has a big first-floor dining room with views towards the green olive plantations surrounding Solaris’s bay, and outdoor seating in a garden planted with palms and lush Mediterranean plants. Local fish and shellfish form the mainstay of the menu, although it’s the pasta dishes that bring many in-the-know Šibenik diners out this far.QPodsolarsko 66, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 66. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. From June 15 Open 12:00 - 23:00. (140 - 530kn). P­A­L­G­B­W BUFFET ŠIMUN Inexpensive Dalmatian fare in a startlingly orange eatery near the train station, with hearty soups like bob (beans) augmented by grilled meats, breaded squid, pašticada facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

(beef stewed in prunes) and other Croatian lunchtime standards.QFra Jeronima Milete 17, tel. (+385-22) 21 26 74/(+385-) 091 174 32 88. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 60kn). P­i­T­N­G­B­X­W DALMATINO A classic tavern set in the heart of town with rustic items used as décor. Konobe (village taverns) typically house smoked meats, wine and olive oil and this eatery has all of the above; the menu bursts with excellent fish and meats that are prepared in traditional ways.QE‑3, Fra Nikole Ružića 1, tel. (+385-) 098 26 61 76. Open 11:00 - 17:00, 19:00 - 01:00. From July Open 19:00 - 01:00. (70 - 200kn).

P­T­J­N­G­B­X­W KANELA A small tavern with five tables inside and slightly more on the outdoor terrace, Kanela is arguably the most traditional of the eating establishments along Šibenik’s Riva, with an exposed-stone interior hung with old-style lanterns.

Fresh fish, pork chops and crustaceans are grilled on an open hearth that’s visible at the back of the dining room.

Veal or octopus baked under an ember-covered peka is on offer if you order well in advance.QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 5, tel. (+385-22) 21 49 86. Open 08:00 - 24:00.

(50 - 130kn). P­i­T­N­G­B­X­W

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Restaurants KONOBA NOSTALGIJA It’s a family affair and you’ll feel like you’re part of the Ujević kin soon. Oozes Mediterranean with a diverse and affordable menu for either lunch or dinner with local ingredients and local wine top on the list! Cheese and meat platters, fish sorts and soups are highly popular, liquors and homemade cakes too. Quality overrides quantity here and the rustic interior is grand.QF‑3, Biskupa Fosca 11, tel. (+385-22) 20 02 17/(+385-) 091 587 25 06, www.nostalgija-sibenik.com.

Open 12:00 - 22:00. (70 - 130kn). P­A­G­B­X­W MARENDA A tiny room selling fishy snacks of the anchovy, pilchard and mackerel variety, with the odd bit of squid or hake thrown in for good measure. There is a small table inside and a wooden bench on the alley outside. Locals frequently call in for a glass or two of red wine served from the barrel. And don’t be surprised if they suddenly start singing.

QE‑2, Nove crkve 9, tel. (+385-22) 33 60 77/(+385-) 091 893 60 30. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 07:00 - 23:00, Closed Sun. (19 - 45kn). P­i­T­J­N­G­B­X PELEGRINI Occupying a renovated medieval building, just up the steps from Šibenik Cathedral, Pelegrini offers a winning blend of bare-stone historical authenticity and contemporary design cool. They create personalised high-end gastronomic experiences, rich with flavours and aromas of gastronomic heritage. Dishes are made using local ingredients and fresh seafood, while sommeliers create daily wine selections to best fit the season and condition of each wine. For lunch, guests choose a minimum of 3 courses, while for dinner the minimum is 5 courses.

Tasting menu is available upon request.QC‑3, Jurja Dal‑ matinca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 37 01, www.pelegrini.hr.

Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 24:00. From June Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:30 - 24:00. Mon, Tue 18:30 - 24:00. (440 - 830kn). P­J­A­G­B­X­W

BEER HALL PIVNICA TONI If munching tasty pizza and pasta dishes while listening to classic Rolling Stones tracks is your idea of a good start to the evening, then Pivnica Toni is probably the place for you. It has long been a favourite among the local music-fan fraternity: the walls are covered in Šibenik-related pop memorabilia, including photos of singer-songwriter Arsen Dedić, pianist Maksim Mrvica, pop balladeer Mate Mišo Kovač, and any number of lesser-known local acts that never quite made it onto the national stage. One wall is reserved for sporting heroes, with Šibenik-born basketball icon Dražen Petrović hogging the limelight. The outdoor terrace is a popular venue for laid-back beer-drinking on summer evenings.QE‑4, Zlarinski prolaz 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 78 60. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00.

(35 - 45kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W 16 Šibenik In Your Pocket

PEŠKARIJA The name of this hostelry means “The Fish Market”, so no prizes for guessing what’s on the menu. Peškarija has a pleasant terrace with a sea view.QC‑3, Obala palih omladinaca 4, tel. (+385-) 091 111 27 27. Open 11:00 23:00. (50 - 500kn). P­J­A­L­G­B­W TERRA MARE Enjoying an enviable quayside position, Terra Mare is a traditional Dalmatian restaurant that has been given a modern makeover, surrounding diners with soothing fawn hues and smart furnishings rather than the usual nautical trinkets. The grilled fish and meat dishes are unlikely to disappoint, and the seafood pasta dishes are excellent.

QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-) 095 834 55 67. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (75 - 150kn). P­i­T­A­G­ B­X­W TOMASEO A decent and unpretentious place, at Tomaseo you can unwind and enjoy a good meal on the terrace while taking in the view of the Šibenik Channel. Mains and desserts are well-prepared and reasonably priced.QE‑4, Obala dr.

Franje Tuđmana 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 92 54. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (70 - 155kn). P­T­J­ A­G­B­X­W ZLATNA RIBICA Long considered one of the best seafood restaurants in the region, this is a roomy and rather plush location decked out in welcoming pinky-red hues, with potted indoor trees and a sprinkling of cacti. The big sea-facing terrace offers wonderful views, with the island of Krapanj putting in an appearance just across the water. The finest fish (weighing in at around 400kn per kilo) will be grilled, baked or stewed according to your wishes. Otherwise you can opt for grilled tuna steaks or simple fillets of white fish from around 75kn each. With light jazzy music in the background, it’s the ideal place for a quality meal in relaxing, romantic surroundings.QKrapanjskih spužvara 46, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 03 00/(+385-22) 35 06 95, www.zlatna-ribica.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 250kn).

P­A­L­G­B­X­W ZVONE This low-budget eatery offers an authentic taste of homestyle cooking. Lunchtime staples like tripice (tripe), fažol (bean stew) and jota (thick barley soup) serve to satisfy the hungry stomach for minimal financial outlay.QFra Jerolima Milete 11, tel. (+385-22) 21 98 69. Open 07:00 22:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 160kn). P­i­G­W

INTERNATIONAL BAZZA Choose from eating in or out in their courtyard; choose from eating breakfast through to dinner. The choice is yours and there’s plenty of it on the menu which includes sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

seafood, wok cooked dishes, scrumptious desserts that include raw cakes and more. A lot of the menu has a healthy feel to it with refreshing juices too, and the service with a smile is a worthy mention.QE‑3, Kralja Tomislava 9, tel. (+385-) 098 945 13 78. Open 08:00 -22:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00, July, August Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 23:00. (70-110kn). P­A­B PETRUS - ADRIATIQUE BEACH CLUB You’ll think you’re in a movie upon visiting Petrus, a complex pocketed on Banj Beach which consists of a top restaurant, a cafe bar and a nightclub. The spacious terrace offers unforgettable views of the city and Adriatic seashore. Food wise, the menu is a crossover between European and Mediterranean cuisine with a great choice of pizzas for everyone’s taste buds. The menu has variety written all over it and they really do pay attention to detail. Petrus is an excellent choice for families with children, group visits, romantic evenings and outings with company. Children aren’t forgotten with a super duper playground within the complex too. Choose from lunch or dinner, either way, it’s a winner!QA‑2, Prilaz tvornici 35, www.facebook.com/petrussibenik. Open 08:00 - 04:00. P­T­J­A­LB­W STARI GRAD For a tasty meal that won’t break the bank right in the heart of Šibenik, head right along to this simple little spot.

As well as decent pizzas, they serve up a range of meat and fish dishes.QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+38522) 21 28 64. Open 07:30 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (40 - 150kn). P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

ITALIAN GASTRO ITALIANO With over 20 pizzas to choose, you can’t lose! For over 15 years this eatery has prepped dishes with quality and carefully selected foods along with their ‘old school’ cooking recipes. Seafood and meats pack the menu with gems like chicken filled with prosciutto in shrimp sauce and homemade croutons.

Tuna and salmon steaks on the grill are popular not to mention the homemade bread served for free with every meal ordered.

Thursdays is Dalmatian night with live music!QPodsolarsko 78 (next to Solaris Beach Resort), tel. (+385-22) 35 04 94/ (+385-) 091 490 99 88, www.gastro-italiano.hr. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Thu, Fri 13:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 23:00. (40 - 140kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W

LAMB MARIN Standing beside a major junction on the main Zadar-Šibenik road (it’s right opposite the turn-off to Murter island), Marin is one of the most popular mid-journey stop-offs in this stretch of Dalmatia. Most people come here to sample the spit-roast lamb – a specimen can usually be seen slowly revolving above a log fire outside in the car park. The lamb is priced by weight and served in a mixture of chunks (expect to get a selection of both lean and fatty cuts), usually with a garnish of spring onion. The menu covers most other things in the Adriatic repertoire too, with fish and squid figuring strongly.QKapela 61, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 46 60 70. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (35 - 140kn). P­­A­L­G­B­X­W Summer 2018

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Restaurants SYMBOL KEY

Out of town

P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted

DRNIŠ

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

KOD BAJE This unpretentious and inexpensive lunching spot serves up many traditional staples that have disappeared from more touristy restaurants elsewhere, with heart, liver and brains featuring strongly on a menu that also takes in (thank goodness) less queasy dishes such as meaty grills, stews and sausages. Most importantly, Bajo serves up local delicacies such as Drniš pršut (melt-in-the-mouth homecured ham) and sir iz mišine (sheep’s cheese matured in a bag made from intestines) – a combined platter of the two is Drniš’s version of gastronomic heaven.QMate Grubišića 14, Drniš, tel. (+385-22) 88 79 40. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. (40 - 60kn). P­i­T­A­G­B­X­W

TORCIDA This Šibenik institution is on the Split road that leads through Boraja. You can choose succulent lamb peka style, or a crispier version roast on a spit, but don’t miss the home made bread or excellent soups. Bring your Hajduk Split shirt and you might just qualify for a discount!QDonje polje 61, Donje polje, tel. (+385-22) 56 57 48, www. restoran-torcida.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 150kn).

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QUICK EATS MCDONALD’S Philistines of the world unite! There are moments when we just can’t live without those golden arches. Dip your nuggets here at the Dalmare shopping centre.QDalmare centar, Velimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 49 24 20, www.mcdonalds.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (8 - 40kn).

P­T­A­G­B­X­W

VEGETARIAN FRESH&HASH JUICE BAR There are certainly worse ways to spend a sunny summer afternoon than sitting in a town square, sipping a delicious juice or smoothie. Fresh and Hash has dozens of fruit and veg combinations, just waiting for you to try. Of course, you can always have breakfast or a late lunch here, or if the evening is getting on, a few cocktails perhaps.QF‑2, Trg kralja Držislava 1, tel. (+385-22) 77 66 10, www. freshandhash.com/. Open 07:30 - 21:00, July, August 07:30 - 00:00. (18 - 37kn). P­­J­B­K­S­W SHE BIO BISTRO The bistro’s philosophy is admirable. To love and respect the land, the farmers that cultivate it, and of course the food that comes forth. Each season sees a different menu of fusion cuisine. Bread is baked in-house daily, and several dietary needs can be accommodated. Speciality teas, coffees, and cocktails are part of the offer, and you can make this venue ideal for any time of day. An intimate rooftop bar has also opened upstairs, perfect for that gracious sundown cocktail to go with the beautiful sea view.QE‑4, Zla‑ rinski prolaz 2, tel. (+385-22) 21 59 57, www.shebenik. com. Open 10:30 - 21:30. (36 - 98kn). BPA 18 Šibenik In Your Pocket

ISLANDS ALDURA Facing the ferry jetty, Aldura is the obvious last port of call for coffee when you are waiting for the Šibenik-Vodice boat to come steaming round the headland. It is also a fine restaurant, serving up seafood pastas, grilled chops and fresh fish in an atmospheric old building that preserves plenty of its original stone and timber.QZlarinska obala 8, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36 28/(+385-) 091 175 59 75.

Open 08:00 - 01:00. (45 - 140kn). i­T­6­N­B­X­W FEŠTA In Golubovac bay on the island of Žut, this restaurant run by the Mudronja family mixes a standard repertoire of traditional high quality Dalmatian cuisine. Local ingredients especially herbs and flora from the Kornati region is used.

Fish and lobster with innovative starters such as congereel pate and various fish carpaccioare some of the finer things on offer. Home-baked bread and a well-stocked wine cellar provide two more incentives to visit. The restaurant also has a small shop selling groceries and other supplies to yachters.QUvala Golubovac, Otok Žut - Ko‑ rnati, tel. (+385-) 099 347 35 19/(+385-) 099 239 90 89, www.zut.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (120 - 500kn). T­A­ 6­G­B­X­W FOUR LIONS Attached to Zlarin’s only hotel is this big dining area spread beneath a canopy with a fishing boat hanging from the ceiling. Expect a respectable menu of meat and fish, with plenty that’s freshly-caught it functions as a café too, with chairs and tables right by the waterside.QZlarinska obala 15, Zlarin, tel. (+385-22) 55 36 21. Open 07:00 - 01:00.

(50 - 120kn). P­i­T­6­N­G­B­X­W KAPELICA Traditional food in an old green-shuttered house in an alleyway just off the shore, to the left of the ferry landsibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

ing. The interior features lots of homely red brick, and an open hearth for grilling and baking traditional fish dishes.

The big list of desserts includes a lot more than the usual pancake fare.QObala II 22, Krapanj, tel. (+385-) 098 87 00 93. Open 09:00 - 01:00. (40 - 80kn). i­T­N­G­B­ X­W OPAT Located in a stone house above the shore in Kornat island’s Opat bay, this is another well-known port of call among the yachting fraternity, and you might have to call early in the day if you want to reserve a table for the evening.

Expect the best in traditional Adriatic fare seafood, with shellfish, risottos featuring whatever seafood has been caught that day, and baked-fish mains.QOtok Kornat 183, Uvala Opat - Kornati, tel. (+385-) 091 473 25 50/(+385-) 091 224 78 78. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (150 - 500kn). i­A­ 6­G­B­X­W ŽUT Also in Žut’s ACI marina, Žut offers outdoor seating under a canopy bordered by shrubs and cacti. Oven-baked fish, octopus baked under a peka, or grilled Kornati lamb alongside the usual fish and lobster are among the specialities.QACI Marina Žut, Žut Island, Kornati National Park, tel. (+385-) 091 473 51 55/(+385-) 091 760 56 11, www. restoran-zut.com.hr. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (130 - 280kn).

P­­T­A­6­G­B­X­W facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

KONJEVRATE KONOBA VINKO One word says it all – homemade! Visit this wonderful family-owned konoba situated on the road from Drniš to Šibenik. They breathe local dishes including famous Drniš prosciutto, Velebit cheese, and baked dishes under the iron bell to various rakija (grappa), liqueurs, cakes and deserts – all can be found at this beautiful local tavern.QUz cestu 57, Konjevrate, tel. (+385-22) 77 87 50/(+385-) 098 979 34 10, www.konobavinko.hr. Open 10:30 - 22:00.

(60 - 170kn). P­A­6­L­G­B­X­W

MURTER BOBA Boba’s large contemporary-style dining room still has a homely feel, with cookery books crammed into a shelf in the corner and an open hearth on which food is prepared – delivering a blast of deliciously charcoal-scented grill-smoke to your nostrils as you await the fish or steak that you ordered earlier. There are good risotto and pasta choices too, and slow-baked lamb or octopus if you order it a few hours in advance.QButina 22, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 937 91 81, www.konobaboba.hr/. Open 12:00 02:00. (100 - 200kn). P­A­6­G­B­X­W

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Restaurants ČIGRAĐA With a terrace running along the side of cicada-serenaded Čigrađa bay, this is probably the most romantically-situated of Murter’s restaurants. The food is first class too, with squid, shellfish and fish dishes prepared to a high standard and backed up by potent local wines.QUvala Čigrađa, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 05/(+385-) 098 46 19 87. Open 10:00 - 24:00. (80 - 150kn). i­T­A­L­G­ B­X­W FABRO With tables and chairs set out along one of Murter’s many small-boat piers, Fabro is the perfect spot to enjoy a bit of maritime scenery. It can be quite hot and sunny here well into early evening although as night falls it is a wonderfully romantic place to dine. If you are travelling out of season the small and intimate dining room, decked out in nautical souvenirs, is a relaxing place to spend an evening. Fresh fish either grilled or baked is the star of the show, although the shellfish and steaks are also excellent.QŽabićeva 7, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 45 61. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (80 200kn). P­i­A­G­B­X­W

WINE TASTING BIBICH TASTING ROOM In the little village of Plastovo near beautiful Skradin there is a hidden jewel which has even had the famous TV food icon Anthony Bourdain visit not so long ago.

The Bibich family have been producing wines for generations and these can be found in the finest restaurants across the US and Europe. With prior reservation, the course meals are on offer for the entire wining and dining experience, not to mention the stroll through their serene winery.QPlastovo, tel. (+385-) 091 323 57 29, www.bibich.net. Open 10:00 - 18:00. P­T­ A­6­L­G­B­X­W VINA RAK TASTING ROOM Fancy a drop! Visitors and tourists alike can taste and sample the domestic production of authentic Šibenik wines such as Babić, Maraština and Rose, better known as Opol in the Dalmatian region.QRakovo selo 98, Dubrava, tel. (+385-) 099 724 15 68/(+385-) 099 724 15 68, www.vina-rak.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00.

P­J­N­A VINO&INO A wine bar with world’s biggest collection of wines from Šibenik area, and some from other parts of Croatia as well. Their cocktail list puts local flavours into world classics, and their coffee game is strong with beans lightly roasted in Croatia’s capital. If you are more of a beer lover, make sure to check out their local craft selection.QE‑3, Fausta Vrančića bb, tel. (+385-) 091 250 60 22, www.vinoiino.hr. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. P­J­A­ 6­G­B­X­W 20 Šibenik In Your Pocket

KEZO An unassuming doorway leads to a surprisingly large and homely space, with a pair of huge wooden tables at ground-floor level and an expansive seating area upstairs under the rafters. Kezo’s substantial and inexpensive pizzas are the most popular items on the menu, although there is plenty in the seafood and steak departments to keep more ambitious diners happy.QButina 1, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 965 89 56/(+385-) 092 301 96 58. Open 07:00 - 24:00.

(60 - 160kn). P­i­T­A­V­G­B­X­S­W TIC TAC The closest that Murter comes to a cult restaurant, Tic Tac was one of the early innovators in the Adriatic gastro scene, adding a modern European culinary twist to Croatia’s traditional seafood repertoire. Fish, shellfish and lobster are the main attractions on an extensive menu, although Tic Tac also produces some awesome steaks.

With outdoor seating in a narrow passageway and on the nearby seafront it’s an atmospheric place for evening dining, although it can be difficult to find a table in season.

QHrokešina 5, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 52 30/(+385-) 098 86 46 19. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 200kn). P­T­ A­6­G­B­X­W TUNGA RE Summer-only restaurant set back from the seafront in a small stone house – you may well have to wait before being seated. Most people come here for the tasty pizzas, although there is plenty of choice on a menu that also takes in pasta dishes, salads and fried squid.QTurčinova 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 50 28. Open 17:00 - 23:00.

July, August Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 100kn). T­6­ N­G­B­X

PIROVAC NONO Occupying a back yard that has been roofed over to create a high-ceilinged dining space, Nono supplies goodquality seafood in an environment that is quirkily rustic but not overburdened with kitsch. Sit on delightfully rickety wooden chairs, admire the farmstead bric-a-brac hanging on the walls and tuck in to marinated anchovies, grilled white fish or - if ordered several hours in advance - octopus baked the traditional way, under a charcoal-covered lid. It’s a family-run place and the wine and prošek come from their own vineyard.QTrg domovinskog rata 5, Piro‑ vac, tel. (+385-) 099 224 45 84. Open 07:00 - 02:00. (90 - 350kn). i­T­A­G­B­X­W

PRIMOŠTEN KAMENAR An old stone house with a smart modern interior, Kamenar offers a tasteful combination of traditional home cooking and fine contemporary dining. A range of imaginative seafood pastas and risottos will suit the sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

light-lunchers, while steak, lobster and fresh white fish (either grilled whole or served in the form of pan-fried fillets) provide ample excuse to linger over a substantial and stylish dinner. Local Babić wine goes well with the red meats, while dry white Pošip from Korčula is the ideal accompaniment to the finest fish.QRudina biskupa J. Arnerića 5, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 08 89/(+385-) 098 33 62 46, www.restaurant-kamenar. com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (74 - 200kn). P­i­J ­A­ 6­G ­B ­X ­W MEDITERAN A walled courtyard with an open kitchen, Mediteran is the ideal spot for a relaxing evening, with grilled fish or steak the main culinary crowd-pleasers. It’s also an intimate spot for a drink, with high stools set up on the side of the dining area for those who just want a glass of the house wine - Babić from the family’s own vineyard.QPut briga 13, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 44 59 45/(+385-22) 57 17 80. Open 13:00 - 24:00. (120 - 250kn). P­T­A­6­G­ B­X­W TORKUL Located at the mainland end of the causeway, Torkul offers a familiar mixture of wooden benches and stone walls hung with an enjoyable jumble of bric-a-brac (including among other things nautical photographs, a life belt, and a tuba). Grilled fish, squid and skampi are among facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

the highlights, although dishes baked under a peka (notably octopus with potatoes) are well worth trying if you have the time to call in and order it in advance.QCrnica 1, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 33 75 15, www.konobatorkul.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (70 - 150kn). T­A­6­ G­B­X­S­W

ROGOZNICA ANTONIJO Sheltered by a clutch of palm trees at the end of Rogoznica’s riva, Antonio offers the whole gamut of Adriatic seafood from squelchy squid risottos to succulent lobster, with plenty of griddle-cooked fillets of fish in between.

Dalmatinska pržolica (pork chop with garlic) serves as a substantial meaty alternative. The stone-clad interior is small and intimate, although chances are you’ll end up on the outdoor terrace admiring views of the Frapa yachting marina across the water.QObala kneza Domagoja 35, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 94 11/(+385-) 091 209 63 54, www.restoran-antonijo.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00.

From June Open 11:00 - 01:00. (70 - 200kn). P­A­6­ L­G­B­X­W

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Restaurants SKRADIN BONACA Skradin’s emergence as one of Dalmatia’s leading gastronomic destinations owes a great deal to Bonaca, which has a reputation for nurturing local culinary traditions and only using the freshest ingredients – the owner is himself a keen fisherman. Classic seafood pasta dishes kick off a menu that also includes regional favourites such as shellfish, grilled eel and local lamb. A warmly atmospheric interior features exposed stone and brick with nauticallythemed pictures on the walls, and there’s an outdoor terrace looking down towards Skradin marina.QRokovača 5, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 14 44. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 350kn). J­A­6­U­G­B­X­W CANTINETTA This family restaurant set in a walled courtyard has earned an enviable culinary reputation on the back of locallyinfluenced dishes such as roast lamb. The fish and shellfish are also top class. Cantinetta is so devoted about the authenticity of its notoriously slow-cooked skradinski rižot (risotto with veal) that you are advised to order it at least a day in advance. Since the process of cooking is so complex, they require orders by a minimum of 10 people.

QAleja skradinskih svilara 7, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 10 24/(+385-) 091 150 64 34. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (50 150kn). P­A­G­B­X­W PINI Good home cooking in an interior that blends traditional bare stone with modern minimalist design touches, or in the walled garden with its open kitchen. There is a good selection of grilled meats and fish, with locally caught local mullet or peka-baked squid the stand-out dishes.QDr. Franje Tuđmana 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 26 64 95, www.pini.hr. Open 07:00 - 23:00. (80 - 120kn). P­i­T­ A­6­L­G­B­X­W

VIDROVAČA Located in a cove south of Skradin and almost underneath the bridge of the Zagreb-Split motorway, the dramatically-situated Vidrovača is well-nigh inaccessible unless you have a boat. Luckily it has its own private jetty beside a small pebble beach, and is very popular with passing yachtsfolk as a result. Principal culinary attractions include shellfish, scampi and squid. Local meats (including kid goat) baked under a peka are also on the menu, although they should be ordered a few hours in advance.

QVidrovača bb, Bilice-Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 75 72 81, www.vidrovaca.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (100 300kn). T­6­N­G­B­X­W ZLATKA If Skradin’s culinary traditions leave you cold (or simply out of pocket) you can always opt for Zlatka’s trusty and inexpensive range of substantial salads and pizzas (including at least one vegetarian option), served up in a neat and bright dining room or on a terrace fringed by fragrant rosemary bushes. The family-recipe pašticada (Dalmatian stewed beef with prunes) is also well worth trying.

QGrgura Ninskog 2, Skradin, tel. (+385-) 098 905 39 09/(+385-22) 77 15 71. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (38 - 85kn).

P­T­A­G­B­X­S­W ZLATNE ŠKOLJKE A cosy restaurant set back slightly from the seafront, the Golden Seashell shelters in a timber-beamed dining room decked out with pictures of local beauty spots. A high-quality menu brims with seafood pasta, fresh fish and shellfish, alongside traditional local dishes such as the slow-cooked, veal-based skradinski risotto. Be sure to leave room for the owner’s own-recipe skradinska torta.QGrgura Ninskog 9, Skradin, tel. (+385-22) 77 10 22, www.zlatne-skoljke.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (80 250kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­W

Konoba Vinko Archives

22 Šibenik In Your Pocket

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Restaurants TISNO

VODICE

BROŠČICA A traditional Dalmatian tavern with bare-stone interior, wooden benches and checked tablecloths, and a covered conservatory-style frontage looking out towards the waterfront. The menu ranges from inexpensive pizzas to fresh fish and steaks, with cheap 3-course deals and daily specials offering excellent value for money.QPut Broščice 12, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 81 11. Open 12:00 - 23:00.

From June Open 08:00 - 23:00. (65 - 100kn). P­i­T­ A­V­G­B­X­W

BISTRO GULOŽ A romantic eatery small in venue and size, but it’s the food the people want and come back for. Menu dishes are based mainly on fish and seafood as well as homemade fish paté, burgers, salmon, tuna, swordfish, and fine bruschetta.

Home grown spices at this time of year make all the difference.QObala matice Hrvatske 14a, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 095 900 21 45. Open 17:00 - 24:00. (75-160kn). 6­N­B

GINA Offering restful outdoor eating in a tree-shaded garden mere steps away from the water, Gina is the perfect place to enjoy an evening meal while watching the sun set over Murter’s humpy profile. Fresh seafood is the main attraction although pizzas and grill-steaks serve to fill out the menu. There is a good choice of domestic wines and spirits.QPut Jazine 9, Tisno, tel. (+385-22) 43 85 80, www.gina.hr. From May 1 - September 30 Open 08:00 - 23:00. (60 - 140kn). P­i­T ­A ­6 ­N­ G­B ­X ­W

BY GUŠTE In a stretch of coast full of outstanding grills, this is one of the best, cooking up steaks in an open kitchen with wooden tables spread out across the paving stones. A cult restaurant with a solid following - reservations are essential in season.QMirka Zore 34b, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 201 75 93, www.konoba-guste.com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (80 160kn). A­G­B­X­W

TRIBUNJ

MAKINA Riva-front restaurant decked out in the style of a traditional Konoba or tavern and offering a broad range of traditional Dalmatian fare, from seafood baked under a peka-style metal lid to grilled fish, grilled meats and fishy-flavoured pastas. The adjoining Makina caffe bar is a popular spot for kicking off an evening, with DJs and occasional live music acts generating a party atmosphere.QIve Juričev Cote 20, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 00 15, www.makinavodice.hr. Open 12:00 - 02:00. (50 - 160kn). P­T­J­ A­6­E­G­B­X­W

ŠIMUN This is an evocatively traditional-style tavern right by the bridge into the Old Town, decorated with nautical ropes, fishing nets, and the odd wooden cart for good measure. Seafood pasta, fresh fish, scampi and lobster are among the principal culinary draws.QUlica ribara 6, Tribunj, tel. (+385-) 091 523 60 04/(+385-22) 44 68 12. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200kn). T­J ­A ­6 ­G­ B­X ­W

TRI PIRUNA Local delicacy with a fine track record! Enter a typical Dalmatian tavern (konoba) with some great food on offer. High on the ‘recommendation list’ is tuna steak, Florentine steak, black risotto… Sea food is also hot on the menu! Wines are local and the service advice is at the right price. The music and the décor all fit the experience!QUl. Pave Roce 5, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 576 7751, www.konobatripiruna. com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. (70-210kn). A

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Croatian Cultural Dictionary Written by Andrea Pisac Learning a foreign language is not only a linguistic adventure. Whichever language you choose, climbing the ladder of proficiency unfolds in almost the same way. Everything is great while you dabble at the beginners’ level and the words have their exact equivalents in both languages.

Grammar, phrasality, pronunciation, all this awaits a few rungs up. Master it and you can actually speak the lingo.

The biggest challenge, however, is getting entangled in the web of (obscure) cultural concepts – a treasure revealed only to the advanced students.

CROATIAN BUSINESS CONVERSATIONS This subheading may sound misleading because the concepts that follow are everything but action-packed. Read on and you’ll unearth a peculiar quality in the Croatian attitudes to work: ‘easy does it’ is our local version of the Taoistwu weiprinciple (doing without doing).

1 | Tribalo bi, a Dalmatian version of trebalo bi, literallymeans ‘one ought to’. Yes, it’s important to emphasise the subject-less state of this expression. No one really knows who this one is, which is both polite and convenient. Let’s say a wife says to her husband ‘tribalo bi iznit smeće’ [one ought to take out the rubbish], she is politely nudging – the husband, of course. He can simply reply: ‘ah, tribalo bi’ [one ought to,indeed]. He registers the need for the task but he hasn’t made any promises. He’ll do it but not just yet.

A more brusque version of tribalo bi is used by speakers of other dialects when they want to convey sarcasm. For example, it’s been months and those boxes in the basement are still waiting for your attention. ‘Tribalo bi’, you exhale, knowing well you won’t get to itany time soon.

2 | Kako ćemo – lako ćemo translates as ‘What shall we do? We’ll manage’. It’s a warm, reaffirming attitude that you would use to soothe a friend in distress. Saying this reminds them that every problem has a solution, and that it usually shows up after a few drinks – when you let go. In this context, ‘the managing’ reduces stress. However, you can find yourself on the (stress) receiving end too. Imagine your work depends on the promptness of others. Those others that just took a beer break to blow out the steam. Now, this laid-back letting go is rubbing you the wrong way up. If you try to speed things up, you’ll just get the same wisdom recited back to you: kako ćemo – lako ćemo. So chill, everything will eventually get done, with or without you stressing.

3 | Uhljeb, a single word that explains many Croatian paradoxes. Its stem, hljeb, is an archaic word for bread, so a broad translation would be ‘a person whose daily bread is secured for good’. Now the question is: how is this even possible? It 24 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Kalypso Archives

is, because an uhljeb makes it so. Usually through political or family connections, an uhljeb will find a cushy, well-paid job where minimum work effort is required and the assessment of efficiency is almost non-existent. To an uhljeb, this is crucial because they are either slacking off or not the right person for the job at all. Here’s the paradox: an uhljeb will never call themselves an uhljeb. It is the people around them who whinge about uhljebs, which brings us to another peculiar phenomenon: complaining (at all costs).

4 | Jamrati comes from the German ‘jammern’, which means to complain, moan, lament. Although the verb is more common in continental Croatia, the activity is popular throughout the country. Jamrati has a specific quality to it – it’s complaining for its own sake. If a local begins to moan about something over coffee, don’t try to offer solutions to their woes. The purpose of jamrati is to deepen the bond between the speakers. Someone may jamrati to you about losing a job to an uhljeb, in which case the appropriate reaction is to just listen and agree. Empathise, take their side, but refrain from offering a constructive solution. The camaraderie forged through jamrati is one of the strongest and can even result in professional benefits.

CROATIAN LEISURE TALK Croatian people value their free time and they love sharing it with family and friends. When foreigners see so much lounging around, they immediately assume Croatians are lazy. This is far from the truth. Croats just have a good lifework balance underpinned by a few crucial attitudes.

5 | Tko to može platit meaning ‘who can pay for this’ is usually exclaimed when someone is moved by an extraordinary experience. This can be as simple as a glass of wine during an especially beautiful sunset. What most Croatians believe is that some things/experiences cannot be bought, which is in stark contrast to the Western slogan that ‘everything has a price tag’. Having time for your friends in the middle of the day is a tko to može platit experience. And this is precisely what creates a healthier and more meaningful outlook on life. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Croatian Cultural Dictionary 6 | Kafenisati means much more than ‘to drink coffee’. Of course, a cup of coffee is the start of this ubiquitous ritual.

But everything else that happens during and around it is what makes kafenisati our precious social glue. First off, Croatians always have (or make) time for coffee. It might seam they’re skiving off from work, but lingering over coffee can also serve to advance one’s work. This is how new contacts are made and the existing friendships are nourished. Remember the importance of jamrati [to moan]? Now do it together with kafenisati and you have a winning combo for expanding your social capital. For the complete insight into the Croatian coffee culture, go to https://travelhonestly. com/croatian-cafe-culture.

7 | Duditi is quite the opposite from kafenisati. While coffee dallying is a goal-oriented behaviour (even if it doesn’t seem so to an outsider), duditi really is the ultimate expression of non-doing. We share this life-enhancing skill with our Italian neighbours – masters of the sweetness of doing nothing. If you think this is an easy undertaking, try duditi for one whole weekend. Loaf around the house, chuck away your to-do lists, empty your inner and outer world from distractions. It’s a mammoth achievement, isn’t it? This is why duditi is so beneficial for both your mind and body.

8 | Pomalo is a real subversion of the modern day rushing around mentality. Literally, it means ‘step by step/slowly’ but exercising the pomalo attitude is almost a supernatural act. Here’s why. In the West, people are told ‘time is money’ and to be/appear busy is a sign of success. When Croatians do things pomalo, we are defying these values, and effectively, we are slowing the time down. It may sound farfetched, but pomalo is the Croatian time-travel machine.

CROATIAN WEATHER TALK Weather talk in Croatia is simply weather talk. While in Britain, chatting about overcast skies or sudden drizzle has a deep social purpose, the one of breaking the ice with strangers, Croats will talk about the weather only when it really bothers them. Of course, bear in mind that ‘troublesome’ weather is not simply a meteorological matter because nations perceive climate in a cultural way too. Which is to say that ‘warm’ in Croatia is not the same as ‘warm’ in Scandinavia.

9 | Fjaka could be compared to the Spanish concept of siesta. It’s the same Mediterranean climate with hot and sunny days that makes people sleepy in the afternoon.

This is why a day in Dalmatia starts very early (to avoid the heat), falls into a mid-day lull called fjaka, and picks up once again in the evening. Meteorologically speaking, having an afternoon nap – indulging in fjaka – is justified. Culturally, however, fjaka can be a minefield. It can be an excuse for laziness, or a justification for inefficiency. Ultimately, it’s a state of mind similar to the polako attitude. And because it’s so deeply rooted, the only way to deal with fjaka is to learn how to ease into it yourself. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

10 | Južina comes from jugo – a strong south-western wind that frequently blows at the Croatian coast. While jugo is simply the wind’s name, južina denotes all kinds of negative influence that jugo has on people. This can be a mild headache, or a complete meteoropathic breakdown.

During a strong and long-lasting jugo, the effects of južina are felt all over Croatia, not just the coast. Radio stations will issue warnings to weather-sensitive people who can feel disoriented or experience backache or muscular pain. If you ever witness a bad case of road rage, you can be sure this is a product of bad južina.

11 | Propuh means draught – innocuous all around the world but in Croatia guilty of all kinds of ailments. Croatian propuh is a perfect example of how even illnesses are defined by our culture, not only microbes. Croatian children are raised to fear propuh because it can cause a headache, earache, sore throat, even a full-blown flu. Mothers scream and scold you if you have car windows on opposite sides open. And when they send you off on a trip, their instructions will include a warning not to get caught in propuh.

Croatian people don’t really have much choice but to stay away from the horribly dangerous draught.

MOST IMPORTANT ‘EMPTY’ TALK We use words and phrases to communicate some kind of information – from basic facts to complex emotions. But languages also consist of another type of expressions – let’s call them fillers. These words are widely used and repeated by the natives, but too often forgotten by the foreigners.

Why? Because omitting them doesn’t change the meaning of the sentence, but it certainly affects the tone of the talk.

So here are two Croatian fillers. Learn to use them and you’ll sound as native as it gets.

12 | Fakat translates as ‘really’. It’s one of the commonest fillers in continental Croatia, especially Zagreb. For example, ‘Fakat sam gladna’ [I’m really hungry]. But it can also be used to ask a question or to confirm what someone just said. It’s fakat cold outside. Fakat? Fakat.

13 | Ajme is so widespread in Croatia that many people don’t even know its etymology. It comes from the Italian exclamation ahimè and is used whenever you’re caught by a strong emotion and left speechless. Oh dear could be its rough translation but ajme is especially effective during one of those jamrati sessions. Remember, when someone chooses you for their complaining partner, they think of you as a friend. Don’t fix what’s bugging them. Instead, repeat ajme as much as you can to show empathy. Nothing sounds more Croatian than doing this grumbling – ajmeing back and forth.

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Local Flavour

Vodice Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Andrija Carli - Island Prvić - Prvić Luka

In a country renowned for its diversity of culinary culture, the Šibenik region offers a wealth of gastronomic attractions. As well as the best of Adriatic cuisine, there is a profusion of distinctive local delicacies too.

LOCAL DISHES Fish and shellfish The waters of the Adriatic are packed with all manner of fish. Fine white fish such as John Dory (kovač), Sea Bass (brancin) or Sea Bream (orada) is usually grilled and served whole (complete with head, tail, skin and bones) - using knives, forks, fingers and teeth to prize away all of the white meat is an essential part of the experience. Fish on restaurant menus is usually priced by the kilogramme - a fish that weighs about 300g-400g is usually sufficient for one person. Many restaurants do however serve individuallypriced fish fillets, aware that foreign visitors often find the whole fish-ordering process a bit confusing. The standard accompaniment for fish is mangold (blitva), a green vegetable full of healthy minerals.

Cheaper varieties of fish such as anchovies (srdele or inćuni) are often marinated in oil and serve as excellent snacks or as an accompaniment to a round of drinks.

Squid (lignje) is one of the most popular items on local restaurant menus, served grilled or fried in breadcrumbs.

The Šibenik-Skradin area in particular is famous for its shellfish, and if you are crossing the bridge over the river 26 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Krka you will see bobbing floats on the surface of the water marking the oyster beds. Due to the Krka’s clear waters the local mullet (cipalj) has a more delicate taste than elsewhere in the Adriatic and is a common feature of restaurant menus as a result. Moving only slightly upstream, the Krka is also famous for its freshwater trout. Another real delicacy of the Skradin-Krka area is the eel (jegulja, known locally as bižot), which is lighter in texture and taste than the more fatty eels found in the Neretva delta further south.

Roast meats The maquis-covered hinterland of central Dalmatia provides ideal grazing land for sheep, which can be seen nibbling away on grasses and herbs on the plateau between Šibenik and Knin. Roast lamb on a spit is a popular local dish, and roadside restaurants on the main out-of-town routes frequently entice travellers to pull over by roasting a whole animal in the yard outside. Roast lamb is served by weight with on-the-bone cuts frequently included in each portion - so don’t be too shy to use your hands. Lamb is usually served with several shoots of spring onion.

The other traditional way of preparing local lamb and veal is under a bell-shaped metal lid known as a peka. The method requires a big open hearth, with a log fire to generate the heat. Meat and potatoes are placed in a fire-side pot and covered with the peka lid, which is then covered in hot ashes. The ashes are periodically renewed as the first lot start to cool. The whole process takes about two hours, and results in a wonderfully tender and succulent meal. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour Olive oil The whole of Šibenik county is covered in olive plantations.

Olive groves that were allowed to run wild in the latter half of the 20th century have been returned to cultivation, and new saplings can be seen sprouting from stony slopes all around the region.

Murter is a major centre of olive oil production, although most production is on a small family-farm level and it is difficult to find locally-bottled oil in shops. Many of the locals sell their oil on souvenir stalls in the centre of Murter town in the summer months.

The Zlatna Ribica restaurant in Brodarica produces oil which is hot-pressed rather than cold-pressed (so it doesn’t qualify for the ‘extra virgin’ label) but it does have a smoother taste and texture as a result, and is very good for general kitchen use. It is sold at their own oil press (uljara) on the island of Krapanj.

Photo by Zvonimir Čuvalo

Skradin specialities Veal is also a basic ingredient in Skradinski rižot (Skradin risotto), with the meat cooked slowly for twelve hours (or two days according to some purists) and the rice being added only at the end. Traditionally this is a ritual dish, cooked by the men of the town on the eve of a major feast day. Nowadays you will find it on restaurant menus in Skradin - although you should stick to the best Skradin restaurants if you want to eat a version of Skradinski rižot that has been authentically slow-cooked.

Skradin is also famous for the Skradinska torta, a cake that looks like a traditional sponge cake but has a totally different kind of succulence, largely due to the fact that it is made without any flour - the cake’s texture comes instead from the ground almonds and walnuts that form its prime ingredients. Flavoured with orange peel, honey and rosepetal brandy, it’s a mouth-wateringly delicious culinary discovery for those who haven’t had the good fortune to visit Skradin before. You’ll find it on the dessert menus of most of the town’s restaurants.

Sheep’s-milk cheese Typical of the Drniš area is sir iz mišine, a sheep’s-milk cheese that is matured while hanging in a tube of sheeps’ gut. The smooth-textured cheese has a distinctive aroma and taste, and should definitely be sampled if you see it advertised on the menus of local restaurants. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

Wine and spirits Šibenik county is a major wine producing region, with vineyards spread out across the hills all along the coast. The most common local wine is the outstanding red Babić, although imported vine strains such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon also flourish here. The best Babić comes from Primošten, although good-quality Babić is also cultivated along the whole of Šibenik county’s coast. Biggest local winery is the Šibenik-based cooperative Vinoplod, which produces top-quality Babić alongside mid-price wines like Plavina (red) and Debit (white), and inexpensive table wines.

Based near Skradin, the Bibich winery produces excellent mid-price autochthonous wines such as red Plavina, dry white Debit, as well as innovative barrel-aged blended wines, and international strains such as the quality red Sangreal Shiraz.

Spirits specific to the Skradin area include rakija od ruža (rose-petal rakija) and liker od žižula (liqueur flavoured with berries from the jujube tree).

MARAŠTINA Maraština is an old Dalmatian wine sort which can be found along most parts of the Croatian coast and is common on the Dalmatian mainland. It is a late bloomer so sunshine and warmth are the key ingredients for its growth. It has a yellow or golden/yellow colour, with a discreet and pleasant aroma.

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Coffee & Cakes

She Bistro Archives

Yum Pastry Shop

CAKES CASTRUM COFFEE & MORE Right on the fortress of Saint Michael, this café offers scenic views of the Adriatic whilst choosing from coffee or freshly squeezed juice amongst other beverages. The bake their own fresh cakes and have a variety of types and flavours on offer. Cold salads and platters can also be ordered. Castrum is the right place for a little break from sightseeing.QC‑2, St. Michael’s Fortress, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 099 445 90 11, www.castrumsibenik.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. From July Open 08:00 - 22:00. B­W KA GROM Escape the heat at ‘Ka Grom’, an ice-cream parlour that will hydrate at a fast rate. With a growing reputation as one of the town’s best, the range of flavours here is hard to beat. Whether you like creamy, chocy, fruity, nutty, peachy, waffly, or crunchy, and from classic to premium ice-creams, there’s something for everyone! QF‑2, Trg Kralja Držislava 1, tel. (+385-) 091 318 43 20. Open 09:00 - 01:00. P­J KAVANA LIFE PALACE Located within a Renaissance building which is a stunning hotel, the ground floor houses a café and pastry shop like no other. Around 20 fresh cakes are on offer each day which enhance the ritual of sipping on coffee. Choose from the beautiful terrace or stunning palace like interior.

Must see place for an all-round relaxing rendezvous!QE‑3, Trg šibenskih palih boraca 1, www.hotel-lifepalace.hr.

Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­B­W 28 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Moderato Coffee & Cakes Bar Archives

MODERATO COFFEE & CAKES BAR Named after one of the best-known songs by the Šibenikborn melody-master Arsen Dedić, this roomy café is something of a classic in its own right, with a big outdoor terrace and a range of stylish but comfortable spaces within.

After recently receiving a face lift, the elegant interior fits perfectly with the concept of recharging batteries over a brew. The landscaped terrace is spacious and picturesque.

They serve fantastic homemade cakes!QG‑2, Stjepana Radića 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 36, www.moderato.hr.

Open 06:30 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 13:00. P­T­J­G­B­ X­W­A PANCAKES & COFFEE BAR KREŠIMIR One of the busiest outdoor drinking spots in Šibenik is the patio-style first-floor terrace of Krešimir IV, a superbly situated venue built into the ancillary buildings of the Franciscan Monastery and boasting palm top views of the Riva.

Inside is a smart and stylish bar perfectly suited for both sipping coffee and drinking beer - they have an amazing selection of over 130 different beers, including many excellent Croatian craft beers.QF‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 53 00. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. From June 15 Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­E­G­B­X­W SLASTIČARNICA CALIMERO Only minutes from the main bus station, Calimero is heaven for anyone with a sweet tooth. This patisserie/cake shop will leave your taste buds tingling with their large array of homemade cakes on offer. Cheesecakes, croissants, macaroons, pies and much more to choose from! sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes Naturally, all the finest coffees and teas will help settle the tummy after such indulgence. QG‑3, Vladimira Nazora 49, tel. (+385-22) 21 48 18. Open 07:30 - 23:00. From June Open 07:00 - 00:30. P­B­W­N YUM PASTRY SHOP Attention to detail can be seen on almost every cake or pastry made here, and the combination of flavours aligned with seasonal goodies really do make a difference. This new café has already touched the hearts of locals with its simple interior, colourful cakes, super service and combo of new meets traditional sweets that are served.QE‑2, Božidara Petranovića 8, tel. (+385-) 099 684 95 75.

Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. From June Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. B­W­P­J

COFFEE BARONE BISTRO Cafe style bistro within the Barone Fortress with beautiful panoramic sea views where throughout the entire day visitors can pop in for coffee, but also for those a bit more peckish they can try small fine snacks of marinated seafood or local meat delicacies such as prosciutto and šokol.

Sample wines from small local producers; Maraština, Babic, Debit, Plavina...QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28. Open 09:00 - 20:00. From June Open 09:00 - 22:00. A­W GIRO ESPRESSO One of central Šibenik’s best options for quality coffee is also one of the most niftily decorated, decked out in a contrasting palette of slate greys and rich reds - including some fetchingly scarlet plastic-bucket seats. It’s one of the most popular places in town for a midday caffeinefuelled chinwag. Free wifi brings in a laptop-toting crowd.

QE‑3, Zagrebačka 2, tel. (+385-22) 31 01 66. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. P­T­ J­N­G­B­X­W GRADSKA VIJEĆNICA With outdoor seating underneath the arches of Šibenik’s Renaissance town hall, this is the place where locals and visitors alike love to sit and absorb goings-on in the main square, with the city’s cathedral providing a grandiose backdrop. Inside, salmon-pink décor and bronze-painted ceilings convey an aura of olde-worlde style. Tea is served old-school-style in a pot, and it’s always worth trying out the cake of the day.QD‑4, Trg Republike Hrvatske 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 36 05. Open 09:00 - 23:00. From June Open 08:00 - 23:00. T­J­A­6­G­B­X­W HENDRICK’S BAR A contemporary bar with an urban Mediterranean feel that is hot on the heels of ‘drink it up’. They also offer an assortment of freshly squeezed juices, an even larger selection of ‘more beer, more beer’ and other alcoholic beverages to get your evening going. On Friday nights enjoy open air concerts.QE‑3, Božidara Petranovića 16. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. X­W facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

SREDNJOVJEKOVNI SAMOSTANSKI MEDITERANSKI VRT SV. LOVRE CAFÉ&RESTAURANT If you value your daily coffee break as your personal moment of nirvana, there could be few better surroundings than these monastery gardens. A true oasis of tranquility, the gardens are filled with the scent of old-fashioned roses, and you can see capers in their natural habitat rather than floating miserably in a pickle jar.QD‑3, Strme stube 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, www. sv-lovre.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. P­J ­A ­6 ­B­ X­W TRAPULA Named after a trap used by local fisherfolk, Trapula is a pleasant café-bar on the Riva, with a glass-enclosed verandah-type construction tacked on to a smaller and cosier inner sanctum. Bottled beers include cult Croatian ale Velebitsko pivo, while the background music covers familiar international pop-rock territory.QB‑3, Obala palih omladinaca 12. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Fri and Sat 8:00 - 1:00. From June Open 08:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­ N­B ­X­W

OUT OF TOWN LEOPOLD Much favoured by the locals for that all-important first coffee of the morning (not to mention any of the numerous coffee breaks taken subsequently throughout the day) Leopold’s corner-of-the-square position makes it the ideal spot to keep track of comings and goings during the day - and provides a front-row view of the nightly-parade of sun-bronzed holidaymakers that takes over the town in summer. With a strawberry-and-cream interior and chic elliptical tables, it offers serious competition to Murter’s other bars in the design stakes too.QRudina 1, Murter, tel. (+385-) 098 989 24 80. Open 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­ N­B­X­W MIRAGE A popular meeting place day and night, Knin’s premier café-bar is cheerful and chic in equal measure, with easy chairs the colour of orange peel arranged around circular black tables, and a floor-to-ceiling curving window looking out onto the main street below. If you can’t squeeze into a seat here then the similar Café Baltazar, in the same building, is a worthy alternative.QVukovarska 2, Knin.

Open 07:00 - 23:00. P­T­6­N­B­X­W VODOPIJA This main-square café serves reassuringly strong coffee and delightfully soft and springy krafne (doughnuts), which come either with marmalade filling or with chocolate icing. In summer they also have a substantial menu of ice cream, and a large outdoor terrace perfect for evening drinking.QTrg Rudina 2/b, Murter. From June Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­J­N­G­B­W Summer 2018

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Nightlife AZIMUT CLUB This is the main actor of the Šibenik alternative scene and is choc a bloc filled with detail, great ambience, old retro furniture, inner garden and more. Live concerts held each night with exhibitions and theatre thrown in between. Fits up to 400 guests so squeeze in and as the inner slogan says, ‘Find your way’.QC‑3, Obala palih omladinaca 2. Open 09:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. A­6­E­G­B­X­W BAR CODE The newest kid on the block in terms of nightlife in Šibenik is Bar Code, a cocktail bar best known for the use of local ingredients in making a fusion of modern to original cocktails and other beverages. With live DJs, artists and bands lined up, Barcode is definitely a place worth visiting as the sun sets and the moon rises. QE‑4, Trg Pavla Šubića 3, tel. (+385-) 098 942 37 80. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 02:00. P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W DOMINO This functional water-front rectangular space is rendered rather welcoming and homely by a combination of lowkey lighting, garden-style wicker furnishings, and a poprock menu of background music that is loud enough to keep your feet tapping but not so deafening as to drown out an evening of good conversation. The clientele here is mildly older than that at the nearby Point (see below) but not so long in the tooth that they have lost their appetite for a good party.QA‑3, Obala prvoboraca 17, tel. (+385-) 091 522 82 25. Open 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00.

P­6­E­N­G­B­X­W EN VOGUE BEACH CLUB ‘Barman, we’ll have a cocktail please!’ These can be your words whilst sitting at a water bar under a palm tree at En Vogue. Welcome to a state of the art holiday experience for those who love summer beach parties to a real chilling atmosphere. In-house DJs play the biggest hits all day long and you can choose from swimming pools and Jacuzzis to cool off in whilst gazing out onto the Šibenik islands.QSo‑ laris Beach Resort, Hoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 01, www.envoguebeachclub.com. B­W

broader beverages on hand; seasonal specials in terms of food are on offer too. Coffees of all sorts available!QPut gimnazije 5, tel. (+385-) 095 890 44 31. Open 07:00 23:00. X­W­B­P­A­L VINTAGE BAR Opened in the summer of 2016 with attention to detail paid to the interior’s green walls, nature walls, earthy shades and more. The Vintage Bar offers super cool cocktails, hot coffees and teas. As it is located in the heart of the city, it’s the perfect breather or time-out between sightseeing.QF-3, Prolaz Bože Dulibića 4, tel. (+385-) 098 942 37 80. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

OUT OF TOWN AURORA Set on a blustery hillside to the east of town, this palatiallooking balustraded building is night-bar, pizzeria and club all rolled into one. Live gigs by Croatian pop stars, top DJs from abroad, and an atmospherically-lit back garden keep the hordes coming. Heading back down the hill at dawn is all part of the Primošten experience.QKamenar 3, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 098 920 19 64, www.auroraclub. hr. It’s best to keep track via the web or Facebook page.

A­6­L­E­G­B­X­W BEACH BAR LANTANA Crouching above the corner of Čigrađa bay is this improvised building that looks a bit like a thatched hut, with wooden benches underneath a rush-matting canopy, and additional chairs and tables set higgledy-piggledy on slop-

KUGLANA Revamped and ready to roll, this bowling alley has had a makeover and is spick and span ready for the summer.

Those wanting a fun night out with games galore will find haven here. Apart from bowling there is billiards, pinball, darts, TVs with sports channels and a nearby betting store.

Live urban an alternative bands do hit the stage for entertainment on occasions.QUlica bana Josipa Jelačića 2, tel. (+385-) 091 214 09 56. Open 07:00 - 01:00, Fri and Sat 07:00 - 04:00. From June 15 Open 07:00 - 01:00. P­E­ N­G­B­X­W PUB&WINE BAR SCALA Enter into a monopoly of wines and beers beautifully placed for customers to choose from as they are lit up behind the illuminating lights surrounded in stone behind the bar. This rustic venue has a lot of pluses in terms of vibe and character. Live acts perform often, a great set list of local and 30 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Barone Fortress, Fortress of Culture Archives

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Petrus - Adriatique Beach Club

ing ground underneath pine trees. There is a wood-burning oven for baking pizzas, a simple menu of pršut sandwiches and seafood snacks (such as girice; fried whitebait), and frequent late-night DJ events and rock gigs during the summer.QUvala Čigrađa, Murter, www.lantana-murter.com.

May 15 - October 15 Open 10:00 - 24:00. T­6­N­G­ B­X­W EXIT CLUB A well-patronized party-bar in central Vodice, offering different styles of music on different nights. House and techno regularly pull the punters in, although you might equally stumble into a Croatian pop evening when everyone is singing along blissfully to songs that you don’t understand.

QTrg hrvatskih mučenika 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 095 196 67 19. June 15 - August 31 Open 21:30 - 05:00. P­J­ E­N­B­X FJAKA BAR Situated in the small Dalmatian village of Brodarica near Šibenik, the locals will tell you that Fjaka Bar is one of Brodarica’s best cafes and bars which during the day is a typical relaxing place with a care-free Mediterranean feel where one can enjoy excellent coffee, refreshing beverages and delicious meals, and at night the pace picks up as the bar turns into a small nightclub with DJs and live bands. Feel the vibrations!QObala Maratuša bb, Brodarica, tel. (+385-) 091 200 15 26. Open 08:00–01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00.

P­i­T­6­E­N­G­B­X­W NOSTRESS NIGHT&BEACH BAR The crew which runs this place is famous for organising great parties the whole year round, and come June they facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

simply move the stage out into the open and next to the sea. DJs, music, warm nights, all in a place loved by locals and tourists alike, and all guaranteeing a memorable night out.QObala Maratuša bb, Brodarica, tel. (+385-) 099 873 40 45. Open 08:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. July, Au‑ gust Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. P­T OPIUM This cocktail bar and club in the centre of Vodice, right beside the ACI marina, aims for a mix of cutting-edge sounds and hedonistic summer fun, and gets its fair share of visiting DJs.QTrg hrvatskih mučenika 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 091 569 50 19, www.opium-vodice.net. Open 07:00 - 00:00.

July - September Open 21:00 - 06:00. P­T­J­A­6­ U­E­G­B­X­W THE LEGEND’S PUB Occupying a roomy stone house just opposite Primošten’s causeway, Legends features the kind of solid wooden furniture and green-hued upholstery that makes a pub a pub – or at least in the mind of a European holidaymaker. The semi-circular balcony hovering above the bar area is quite a feature, while floor-to-ceiling photographs of famous Croatian sporting heroes provide plenty of topics for discussion. Expect DJ events and live music (jazz, blues, and pop-rock cover bands) throughout the year, with crowds spilling out onto the sea-facing terrace in summer.QTrg Don Ive Šarića 1, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 57 02 77, www. thelegendspub.com. Open 08:00 - 05:00. P­J­A­6­ E­G­B­X­W

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Sightseeing ESSENTIAL ŠIBENIK CATHEDRAL OF ST JAMES (KATEDRALA SVETOG JAKOVA) With its pale stone dome rising above the city like a gargantuan crocus bulb, Šibenik’s magnificent Cathedral exerts a dominating presence over the huddled buildings of the Old Town. In a sense the church here is as old as Šibenik itself, although it is the century-long campaign of rebuilding initiated in 1431 that produced the imposing edifice that can be seen today.

Frequently halted by lack of funds, construction took place in installments, and the new-look cathedral wasn’t officially consecrated until 1555. However it brought together many of the Adriatic’s finest craftsmen, foremost among them being the visionary architect Juraj Dalmatinac, and his successor Nikola Firentinac. It was they who were responsible for the cathedral’s most innovative features, the barreled roof and massive cupola both built from interlocking stone slabs.

Quite apart from its status as a marvel of construction, the Cathedral is also a hugely entertaining as a gallery of late-Medieval and early-Renaissance sculpture. The north portal is framed by endearingly primitive statues of Adam and Eve (both portrayed covering their private parts in embarrassment) standing on pillars which rest on the backs of lions. They are thought to be the work of Bonino of Milan, a craftsman from Lombardy who was brought in to work on the cathedral at an early stage but who died before the reconstruction really got going.

Much more refined in style are the sculptures and reliefs around the outside of the apse, where Juraj Dalmatinac provided a frieze of 71 stone heads – which appear to pop out of the wall just above human height. Thought to be modeled on Šibenik characters of Dalmatinac’s acquaintance, they are uniquely lifelike examples of Renaissance sculpture and have served as something of a trademark for the city of Šibenik ever since. Above the frieze, a pair of stone cherubs unfurl a scroll of parchment bearing the name of the artist, Juraj Dalmatinac.

You’ll have to crane your neck upwards to catch sight of the statues grouped around the central cupola, all the work of Nikola Firentinac. A winged St Michael is portrayed spearing a dragon facing the main square, while St Mark faces the sea, and St James faces east. Standing at roof level at the western end of the cathedral is an Annunciation scene, also by Firentinac, featuring Archangel Gabriel and the Virgin.

Inside, look out for a sarcophagus of Bishop Juraj Šižgorić with an effigy of the reclining bishop carved by Juraj Dalmatinac. The Altar of the Holy Cross bears a late Gothic crucifixion carved by Juraj Petrović, fifteenth-century Canon of Split Cathedral. Dalmatinac’s greatest masterpiece is the baptistery (krstionica) in the cathedral’s corner, which features a beautifully carved ceiling, and plump cherubs cavorting around the base of the baptismal font. Mass: June - August 09:00 and 20:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 20:00. September, October, April, May 09:00 and 19:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00. November Šibenik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Sibenik Hoopla

32 Šibenik In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing - March 09:00 and 18:00, Sun 09:30, 11:00, 18:00.QD‑4, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1. Open 09:30 - 18:30. Admis‑ sion 25kn.

SAINT ANTHONY’S CHANNEL - PROMENADE See one of the most amazing entrances to a city from the sea. Saint Anthony’s Channel is a 4.4km new promenade surrounded by Mediterranean vegetation and offers stunning panoramic views of the Šibenik archipelago. Attractions include the ruins of a 16th century tower, a sublime several hundred meter long marine tunnel built for military purposes, beautiful coves that lay at the end of the channel and are perfect for a swim or quick dip, and in the vicinity sits the old port and a cave that housed a small church dedicated to St. Anthony. Organised tours, walking, jogging and cycling are your best options for a very scenic outside-in view of Šibenik!QJ/K‑5, www.kanal-svetog-ante.com. ŠIBENIK CITY MUSEUM (MUZEJ GRADA ŠIBENIKA) A narrow alley, behind the apse of the cathedral, leads to the 17th century Rector’s Palace, from where the representative of the Venetian Republic would watch over Šibenik’s affairs. It is now home to the City Museum which only reopened its door for permanent displays after a demanding 22 year break for renovations. Exhibited artefacts are divided into four periods: Prehistory, Antiquity, Late Antiquity and the Middle Ages.QD‑4, Gradska vrata 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 38 80, www.muzej-sibenik. hr. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 30kn, kids by the age of 12 have free entrance.

THE MEDIEVAL MONASTERY MEDITERRANEAN GARDEN OF ST LAWRENCE (SREDNJOVJEKOVNI SAMOSTANSKI MEDITERANSKI VRT SV. LOVRE) Laid out by landscape architect Dragutin Kiš and maintained by children from a local high school, the Mediterranean Garden has become one of Šibenik’s most popular attractions since opening its gates in 2007. Occupying an oblong terrace just above the belfry of St Lawrence’s church and surrounded by stone walls, the garden aims to provide an accurate impression of what a medieval monastery garden would have looked like, and is a marvellously soothing spot in which to enjoy a few moments of retreat. The collection of plants is laid out in neat geometric beds and reveals how monastery gardens such as these were highly practical affairs, cultivating the herbs and shrubs that were both useful in the kitchen and in medieval medicine. Fruit trees and roses help to provide additional colour. There is also a café with outdoor seating on a garden-side patio, a restaurant and a souvenir shop. If you have ambitious plans for a herb garden at home, this is the perfect place to come for horticultural inspiration.

QD‑3, Strme stube 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15/(+385-) 098 34 11 98, www.sv-lovre.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

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Sightseeing AQUARIUM ŠIBENIK

AQUARIUM ŠIBENIK Upon entering this old stone house situated 50m from the Cathedral, embark on a journey which brings to life the local residents of the Adriatic Sea. This aquariumterrarium is a small zoo where you can experience the depths of sea, rivers and lakes and meet various interesting fish and reptiles.QD‑4, Kralja Tomislava 15a, tel. (+385-) 099 212 58 19, www.aquariumsibenik. com. May and June Check their Facebook page.

From July Open 10:00 - 21:00. Admission 37/27 kn.

FORTIFICATIONS BARONE FORTRESS Today’s smart devices are virtual time machines. Don a pair of augmented reality (AR) glasses and use your smart phone and step 370 years into the past, to the 1646 Ottoman siege of Šibenik. The defence of the city by the citizens of Šibenik is told through an exhilarating audio and video experience taking the viewer right into the centre of the action. The siege takes place on Barone Fortress, a fortification hastily built in just under two months lying on the hills overlooking the city. The fortress was part of the defence system of Šibenik which included three other fortresses and together they served as the last line of defence against the invading Ottomans. While the other three fortresses were named after sacred buildings, this one was named after Baron Degenfeld, a hero in the story of the cities defence.

The fortress soon fell into a state of disrepair after the Ottoman invaders were repelled. It was several hundred years later, in the early 20th century that the city of Šibenik purchased the fortress and its surrounding land. It eventually gained use as a viewpoint overlooking the city’s marina and archipelago, and as a recreational space for hiking. In 34 Šibenik In Your Pocket

January of 2017, Barone Fortress was finally reopened to the public. The opening ceremony celebrated the rich cultural heritage of the city of Šibenik and marked the 950th anniversary of the first written mention of the city’s name.

QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, www.barone.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00. From June Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 50kn (family 110kn) valid for seven days, for visiting both, st.Michael’s and Barone fortresses.

ST JOHN’S FORTRESS (TVRĐAVA SVETOG IVANA) Built in 1646 at the time of the Candia War (when Venetancontrolled Dalmatia was engaged in a bitter struggle to ward off Ottoman encroachment) this is a typical example of 17th-century military architecture, its star-shaped plan providing any number of ideal angles for defensive artillery fire. Even today it is a stirring sight, its angular jutting bastions surrounded by outcrops of limestone and spindly evergreen trees. Getting here from the centre of town is fairly easy: from the main Kralja Zvonimira take Težačka then turn left into Zadarska Street, before turning right onto the steeply ascending Put V. Mandušića. Alternatively, drive as far as Barone (see below) and take the footpath from there.

Once you’re here, the access path to the fortress itself leads through a stepped gateway and out onto a grassy plateau, where there are remains of barrack blocks, powder stores, World-War-II gun positions and a modern radio mast. The views, taking in St Michael’s Fortress and the Šibenik Channel, are well worth the uphill walk.QL‑2.

ST MICHAEL’S FORTRESS (TVRĐAVA SVETOG MIHOVILA) One of the first things that visitors see when entering Šibenik by road is the silhouette of St Michael’s Fortress, which crowns the pyramidal hill above Šibenik’s Old Town.

Its importance to the Croatian state is illustrated by the number of times that 11th-century Croatian kings brought their court here – Petar Krešimir IV in 1066, Zvonimir in 1078, and Stjepan II in 1080. It was during Krešimir’s visit that Šibenik was first mentioned in official documents, which explains why the city is sometimes known to this day as “Krešimir’s Town”.

Its floor plan has the shape of an irregular rectangle. There are two square towers on its eastern side whereas two polygonal towers sit along its northern front. Throughout history, the fortress had been repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt, and it experienced its greatest suffering in 1663 and 1752. Archaeological investigations inside the monumental complex have found numerous remains of material culture dating from prehistoric times to the late Middle Ages.

Running downhill from the fortress towards the seafront are a crenellated set of double walls built in the 15th century to provide access to the sea.

Centuries on and despite its majestic yet turbulent past, St. Michael’s Fortress stands proud as a true landmark of the city, an unavoidable destination of cultural tourism and of utter national significance. Nowadays and after extensive reconstruction, the fortress serves a different purpose; it has become a summer stage for various cultural and in particular musical events thanks to its natural beauty and sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

location. You have most likely seen live acts perform in arenas, stadiums, concert halls, but have you ever seen artists perform live in a fortress? If not, here is your chance in seeing some outstanding world class performances under a starry sky, with incredible acoustics and beautiful views that will surely give you an entirely new musical experience. Many have dubbed it as one of the most prestigious venues in the entire region and with over 40 exclusive cultural events and concerts this summer which include the likes of Bryan Ferry, Mario Biondi, Kruder & Dorfmeister and the National Folk Ensemble LADO, take a peek at what other mega acts are going to bless the fortress stage this summer in What’s On Chapter.QC‑2, Zagrađe 21, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, www.svmihovil.sibenik.hr/.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. From June Open 09:00 - 22:00. Ad‑ mission 50/30kn (family 110kn), valid for seven days, for visiting both, st.Michael’s and Barone fortresses.

ST NICHOLAS’ FORTRESS (TVRĐAVA SVETOG NIKOLE) Jutting out into the St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow neck of water that leads from the Šibenik Channel to the open sea, the smooth-pointed triangle of St Nicholas’s Fortress is one of the most elegant military buildings anywhere in the Adriatic. It was built by Venetian military engineer Gian Girolamo Sammicheli in the mid-16th century to protect Šibenik from Ottoman naval attacks. In 2017, it was included in UNESCO’s World Heritage List making Šibenik only one of five cities in the world with two ancient buildings listed. There are long-term plans to restore the fortress and turn it into a museum centre. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

LANDMARKS DRAŽEN PETROVIĆ MEMORIAL COURT Šibenik’s most famous sporting son, Dražen Petrović, is well remembered here. In Baldekin, a part of this coastal town, alongside a memorial centre, you’ll find a court dedicated to this former NBA great.QBaldekin.

DRAŽEN’S GOLF 1 The old white Volkswagen Golf Mk1 once owned by Dražen Petrović, dubbed as the best Croatian and European basketballer of all time and NBA star, whose young life was taken in a fatal car accident 24 years ago, has finally been placed where it belongs – beneath his Memorial centre at ‘Baldekin’, and this is where it will remain in the future. There too is a monument of Petrović which helps keep his memory alive! Pay a tribute…QBaldekin.

JURAJ DALMATINAC STATUE The great Zadar-born stonemason was resident in Šibenik from 1441 until his death over three decades later, despite long absences working in Split, Dubrovnik, Ancona and elsewhere. Šibenik folk regard him with justification as a local, and this statue on the square outside the Cathedral is very much a statement of municipal patriotism as well as a mark of respect for a great architect.QD‑3/4, Trg Repub‑ like Hrvatske.

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Sightseeing PETAR KREŠIMIR IV STATUE (1058-1074) King Petar Krešimir spent Christmas 1066 here and wrote a proclamation in which Šibenik was mentioned by name, the first ever historical document that did so. For this reason, he’s regarded as something of a founding father by the locals.QG‑3, Perivoj Robert Visiani.

POLJANA This broad irregularly shaped square is very much modern Šibenik’s focal point. It began life as the open space outside the town gates where horse races and archery contests would take place. The square’s most distinguished building is the stately ochre Šibenik Theatre, built in 1870 and patronized by Austro-Hungarian Emperor Franz Joseph during his Dalmatian tour in 1875.

On the other side of the Poljana stands the boldly contemporary public library, a wedge of modern glass and steel built onto the side of a buttressed 16th-century bastion.

Occupying a niche on the side of the bastion is a statue of the city’s protector, demon-slaying Archangel Michael.

QG‑2, Poljana.

TOWN HALL (GRADSKA VIJEĆNICA) Running along one side of the square opposite the Cathedral, this 16th-century Renaissance structure was almost totally destroyed by allied bombing in 1943, and substantially rebuilt in the aftermath. The beautifully proportioned colonnaded loggia now houses the Vijećnica café-restaurant, and also forms the backdrop to many of the events comprising the annual Šibenik Children’s Festival.QD‑3, Trg Republike Hrvatske 1.

PARKS PERIVOJ ROBERT VISIANI Named after the Šibenik-born 19th-century botanist, this stretch of park was laid out in the 1890s, and a section of the medieval town wall was demolished to make way for it. A high proportion of evergreen trees and shrubs ensure that the park retains its colour all year round, while plantings of lavender, rosemary and sage provide waves

Šibenik Tourist Board Archives

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of pleasantly herby scent. The garden was once the site of a bronze statue of Nikola Tommaseo (1802-1874), the Šibenik-born Italian-language novelist and critic who had a profound interest in local Dalmatian culture. It’s now the site of a statue of King Petar Krešimir IV.QG‑3. ŠUBIĆEVAC PARK For a taste of the arid Mediterranean landscape that characterises central Dalmatia head for this large wooded area uphill from the centre, where a mazy network of paths leads up and down boulder-strewn knolls covered in a mixture of wiry shrubs and evergreens. There’s a kids’ playground near the entrance, and good views over the southeastern end of the city from the park’s higher reaches. It’s also a good start or finishing point for those exploring the nearby fortresses of St John and Barone.QF‑1, Šubićevac.

RELIGIOUS COLLECTIONS TREASURY OF BENEDICTINE NUNNERY OF ST LUCE (BENEDIKTINSKI SAMOSTAN SV. LUCE) Behind a plain green door on Kačićeva is one of Šibenik’s most absorbing attractions, filled with religious objects that may not be astronomically valuable but which nevertheless convey a rich love of craftsmanship and sincere devotion. Most curious and most captivating of the exhibits is a painted clay Madonna dating from the 13th century. A stone inscription above the entrance honours 17th-century benefactor Nikola Buronja, who donated three of his own houses in the order to help get the monastery started.

QD‑3, Kačićeva bb, tel. (+385-22) 33 83 24. Open 9:00 - 12:00, 16:30 - 18:00 and by prior arrangement. Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 10kn.

CURIOSITIES AMOR DI CANI Wandering the streets you’ll come upon two stone containers jutting out of a wall and one has the chiseled inscription, ‘Amor De Cani’ (for the love of dogs). Historically, animals suffering from rabies often had a fear of water and locals could then identify those who’d keep distant, these days they serve as a healthy pit stop for cats and dogs wanting some water.

THE ŠIBENIK REBUS Dobrić is one of the narrow stepped streets that zig-zags its way down from the Kalelarga towards the Riva, passing a small piazza about half-way down. High up on the façade of one of the piazza’s houses is Šibenik’s most enigmatic sight, the Rebus or riddle. It basically consists of an oblong stone relief bearing five symbols – bird’s wings, crossed scythes, two wine flagons, a trio of gaming dice, and a human skull. The artisan who carved the Rebus was obviously delivering a mischievously morbid message, although opinion differs as to precisely what this is: a cautionary tale about the dangers of drinking and gaming seems to be part of the explanation. Whatever the Rebus is warning you about, it seems certain that you will be quite dead at the end of it.QE‑3, Dobrić. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

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Vodice Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Milan Balaban

Great escapes WHERE TO VENTURE OUT FOR AN ADVENTURE

Šibenik Surroundings Šibenik County (or Šibensko-kninska županija as it is known in Croatian) offers a huge amount of variety, with swanky yachting marinas and party-till-sunrise tourist resorts rubbing shoulders with archaic villages and large tracts of sun-parched Mediterranean maquis. The Krka and Kornati national parks are the two must-do daytrips, although with islands, coves and stony hillsides in abundance, you’re unlikely to be stuck for natural beauty spots.

Inland from Šibenik Inland from Šibenik lies a dry rocky plateau characterized by jagged chunks of limestone and a scattering of wiry shrubs. Here and there the maquis has been cleared to provide space for vineyards, olive groves and pastures, the plots divided up by dry-stone walls. Despite the existence of major towns like Drniš, Knin and Skradin, large tracts of land feature little apart from isolated farmsteads and endof-the-road villages, many featuring the rough-hewn stone architecture typical to this part of Dalmatia.

The river Krka is the area’s main natural feature and the Krka National Park is the most-visited regional sight - the park is covered under a separate section below.

DRNIŠ Hugging the high ground above the Čikola river, Drniš was a medieval fortress town before falling to the Ottoman Turks in 1522. Nowadays it is an important market centre midway along the main road from Šibenik to Knin.

Ruins of the medieval fortress poke up from the Gradina, the rocky hill above town. Little remains of this medieval strongpoint save for a stark portion of the southern tower, which pokes up from the hill like a bad tooth. Nearby is a minaret dating from around 1500, all that’s left of an Ottoman-era mosque. Thanks to a new lighting system installed in December 2010, these ruins are dramatically illuminated at night.

Occupying pride of place in the town itself is St Anthony’s Church, a 16th-century mosque that was converted to Catholic use in the 1670s by Franciscan monks from nearby Visovac. Housed in the former home of Drniš politician Nikola Adžija (1875-1972), the Municipal Museum has archeological and ethnological displays alongside a collection of works by Croatia’s greatest sculptor Ivan Meštrović (1883-1962), who spent his early years in nearby Otavice.

Adžija was one of the early supporters of the young Meštrović, helping to raise money that paid for the promising local lad’s studies.

CITY MUSEUM OF DRNIŠ QDomovinskog rata 54, tel. (+385-22) 88 67 74. Open 08:00 - 10:00, 11:00 - 13:00. Sat and Sun closed. Admis‑ sion 5kn.

DRNIŠ TOURIST BOARD QDomovinskog rata 5, tel. (+385-22) 88 86 19/(+385) 095 968 04 20, www.tz-drnis.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

KNIN Sprawled across a green plain overlooked by the bleak Dinara mountains, Knin has long been a town of crucial strategic importance, controlling the medieval trade routes linking Dalmatia with the Balkan interior, and in more recent times the location of a major railway junction. It’s most famous sight is Knin fortress, an impressively well-preserved agglomeration of crag-hugging walls and towers that hovers above the winding Krka river. An important strongpoint from the 10th century onwards, Knin became the capital of Croatia under King Zvonimir (ruled 1076-1089), a status it retained until 1097 when Croatia accepted the rule of the Hungarian crown. Knin remained a much-coveted military prize, falling to the Ottoman Turks in 1522, who were in turn turfed out by the Venetians in 1688. Knin served as the headquarters of Serbian-occupied territory during the 1991-1995 war, and the raising of the Croatian flag over Knin fortress in August 1995 brought a highly symbolic end to hostilities.

Central Knin is not a wildly exciting place, and it’s best to make your way straight to the fortress. The steep climb is rewarded by superb views of the surrounding countryside, with the mountains of the Dinara range filling the northern horizon. The fortress itself is an extensive and highly evocative complex of fortifications constructed at different stages, filled with a maze of cobbled alleys, ramps and stairways beneath ivy-covered walls. Spearing up from the highest point of the fortress is a flagpole hung with an unusually large Croatian tricolor, a reminder of Knin’s highly significant place in the history of modern Croatia. In the eastern part of the fortress, a former barrack building houses an ethnographic collection displaying costumes and agricultural implements from the Knin region. Nearby, the fortress’s former hospital plays host to an archeological museum.

KNIN TOURIST BOARD QTuđmanova 24, tel. (+385-22) 66 48 22, www.tz-knin. hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat and Sun. July, August Open 07:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. MUSEUM OF THE TOWN OF KNIN QFra Luje Maruna 1, tel. (+385-22) 66 17 02, www. kninskimuzej.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00. Admission 30 kn.

OTAVICE Ten kilometres east of Drniš, the sleepy village of Otavice is celebrated for the domed grey Church of the Holy Redeemer that squats on a low hill on the fringes of the village. It was built in to serve as a family mausoleum by the sculptor Ivan Meštrović, who spent much of his childhood here before pursuing a long and fruitful artistic career in Vienna, Zagreb then the USA. Begun in 1926, the building contains some of Meštrović’s most haunting reliefs, with an ethereal Crucifixion flanked by serene portrayals of the Evangelists.

Mass is only held here once a month, but the church is open as a tourist attraction during whole year.

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Šibenik Surroundings THE IVAN MEŠTROVIĆ MUSEUMS – THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY REDEEMER - THE MEŠTROVIĆ FAMILY MAUSOLEUM QOtavice, 22 322 Ružić, tel. (+385-) 098 40 75 38, www. mestrovic.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Closed Mon. Admis‑ sion 15/10 kn.

PAKOVO SELO Twenty kilometres north of Šibenik on the main road to Knin, Pakovo Selo is a traditional inland-Dalmatian village famous for its sheep - and its tasty sheep’s cheese, sir iz mišine, matured the traditional way by being stuffed into a tube made of sheep entrails. Pakovo Selo owes its place on the global tourist map to Etnoland, an ethnographic theme park that aims to introduce visitors to the traditional lifestyles of the Dalmatian karst. Just off the village’s main crossroads, Etnoland is a walled complex containing a collection of traditional stone buildings, each holding a display of olde-worlde furnishings that reveal something about Dalmatian life a century or so ago. Etnoland is geared up to receiving pre-booked groups, and individual tourists should reserve well in advance and be prepared to pay the full group price. The standard tour lasts 2.5 hour, and includes a welcome swig of rakija, a spot of pršut-andwine tasting, awarded guide tour of the displays and a full meal. For more information see Agritourism on page 52.

SKRADIN Squeezed into a sheltered bay near the point where the river Krka flows into the Prukljansko Lake, Skradin was a flourishing settlement in the Illyrian and Roman periods (when it was known as Scardona), and subsequently served as the 13th-century power-base for the Šubić princes of Bribir, one of Croatia’s leading aristocratic clans. Skradin fell to the Ottomans in 1522 and most of its population fled to Šibenik, although it was regained by the Venetians in 1684.

Nowadays it is an important stepping-stone for tourists bound for the Krka National Park, and an important inland stopping-off point for yachtsfolk touring the Adriatic coast.

Skradin is increasingly well known as a gastronomic destination, too, boasting a handful of restaurants offering superb seafood and some unique regional treats.

Lapped by the waters of the Krka, Skradin’s Old Town is centred on the triangular Trg Male Gospe, site of a handsome Baroque parish church with a free-standing belfry. From here a pedestrianized main street heads north, with an atmospheric sequence of arched alleyways leading off on either side. Constantly busy with fishing vessels and yachts, Skradin’s waterfront is also the departure point for shuttleboats into the Krka National Park (see p.44).

SKRADIN TOURIST BOARD QTrg Male Gospe 3, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 06, www. skradin.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SKRADIN TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE QŠibenska 1, tel. (+385-22) 77 13 06/(+385-22) 77 13 29, www.skradin.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

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Islands The islands of Krapanj, Zlarin, Prvić, Kaprije and Žirje may seem close to Šibenik geographically, but are light years away in terms of atmosphere. Featuring stone-built settlements that appear to have changed little in decades (perhaps even centuries), surrounded by relatively unspoilt nature, they offer an entirely different experience of the Adriatic. Getting to the islands is easy: Krapanj is accessible by boat (roughly hourly) from Brodarica, the coastal village 7km southeast of Šibenik; while Zlarin and Prvić lie on the route of the Šibenik-Vodice ferry (2-4 daily depending on season). A separate ferry service (1-2 daily) sails from Šibenik to Žirje and Kaprije.

KAPRIJE Named after the locally abundant caper (kapar in Croatian), Kaprije is a blissfully unspoiled island with no roads and hardly any motor vehicles of any sort (officially it’s a car free island, although there are a few old wrecks dotted around the place that got here somehow). The small village of Kaprije caters for the hundred-or-so permanent inhabitants.

Private rooms and apartments cater for a summer influx of tourists, although the island is never in danger of being overrun. Kaprije’s uniquely sheltered bay is an increasingly popular anchor-dropping point for yachtsfolk exploring the nearby Kornati, while the island’s numerous coves are ideal for a spot of secretive bathing.

KRAPANJ Lying only 300 metres off the shore of Brodarica, the lowlying island of Krapanj was once famous for being the centre of the Adriatic sponge industry, with most of the island’s male population devoting their time to sponge-diving.

Nowadays Krapanj is a relatively quiet but undoubtedly attractive spot, with a line of stone houses along the mainland-facing waterfront, and a handful of souvenir shops selling sponge-themed gifts.

Slightly inland from the shoreline is the Franciscan Monastery, founded in 1435 when monks from Bosnia were gifted the island by local nobles. The monastery museum contains religious artworks, including an extraordinarily expressive 15th-century crucifix carved by Split-based priest Juraj Petrović. The walled graveyard next door contains several family tombs honouring one-time sponge divers, many pictured in relief form wearing their large spherical deep-sea helmets. Head to the basement of the nearby Hotel Spongiola to find a small but entertaining display of exhibits connected with the local sponge-harvesting industry, including a lead-booted diving suit, and early 20thcentury air pumps.

BRODARICA - KRAPANJ TOURIST BOARD QKrapanjskih spužvara 1, Brodarica, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 12, www.tz-brodarica.hr. Open 08:00 - 12:00, Wed 16:00 - 20:00, Closed Sat, Sun. June Open 08:00 - 20:00, Closed Sun. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings PRVIĆ In many ways Prvić is a smaller version of Zlarin, a verdant and unspoiled island with plenty in the way of traditional Mediterranean architecture. It has two main settlements - Prvić Luka at the eastern end, and Šepurine at the west - Prvić has a slightly larger permanent population and is marginally more lively as a result. Prvić was traditionally the summer retreat of Šibenik’s leading families, and remains associated with one great Šibenik name in particular - priest, diplomat and scientist Faust Vrančić (1551-1617).

Vrančić was buried in Prvić Luka’s parish church. Educated in Padua, Vrančić served at the Habsburg court in Prague before devoting himself to his writings. His Latin-ItalianGerman-Hungarian-Croatian dictionary (published in 1595) was a landmark in Croatian language study. His more famous Machinae Novae, published in Venice in 1615, contains 49 copper-plate engravings of machines and inventions, in conscious homage to the inventions of Leonardo da Vinci published several decades earlier. Most famous of the illustrations is Homo Volans, which pictures a man descending through the air attached to a square canvas parachute.

English clergyman and scientist John Wilkins, writing some 30 years later, claimed that Vrančić actually tested the parachute himself by jumping from the belfry of St Mark’s Cathedral in Venice.

A narrow lane leads over the brow of a hill from Prvić Luka to the island’s other settlement, Šepurine. A hive-like village of stone houses, Šepurine is centred on a parish church whose distinctive bulbous belfry is topped by an extravagant weather vane.

THE FAUST VRANČIĆ MEMORIAL CENTRE Venice, 16th century, Vrančić takes the plunge and makes it! You are looking at the first formal inventor of the parachute. Being a polymath, he was born in Šibenik and was buried on the island of Privy, home to this centre where you can see drawings, book collections, models and prototypes of his numerous inventions. Includes multimedia displays and educational games for youngsters!QI Ulica 1a, Prvić Luka, Prvić Island, tel. (+385-22) 44 81 28, www.mc-faustvrancic.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Ad‑ mission 30/15 kn.

VODICE TOURIST BOARD QObala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88, www.vodice.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. June Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

ZLARIN Lying right opposite St Anthony’s Channel, the narrow waterway that connects Šibenik with the open sea, Zlarin is a green island covered in olive groves and wild shrubs.Zlarin 42 Šibenik In Your Pocket

has got the longest island promenade in Croatia (127.50m).

Saint Fortunato is the protector of the island Zlarin so the most frequent names on the island are Srećko, Nato and Refortunato! Coral fishing has been associated with the island ever since the 15th century, when the raw coral was exported to Dubrovnik and other cities to be processed into fashion accessories. During the 1950s coral fishing went into decline due to depleted stocks, although at least one coral-processing workshop still exists on the island, and several souvenir shops open up in summer to sell coral bracelets and earrings.

Zlarin village is a beautiful settlement of stone-built houses arranged around a bay. Key landmark is the impressive clocktower built in 1829 and known as the Leroj (local version of the Italian word for clock, orologio), crowned by an attractively spindly weather vane. Slightly uphill to the west is the 18th-century Church of the Assumption, worth a peek on account of the hairy-looking gargoyles gazing down from either side of the pediment.

Occupying a stone house at the eastern end of town, Zlarin Museum displays finds from a shipwrecked Roman galley found by marine archeologists just off the Šibenik coast, and an “ethnographic room” containing domestic utensils and traditional costumes. The upper floor of the same building houses the Zlarinka coral workshop, where coral is cut, burnished and made into jewelry. You can admire all manner of necklaces, bangles and baubles in the Zlarinka shop, and take a peek at the polishing process in the workroom next door.

Further east, the Chapel of St Simon (Crkvica sv. Šime) has a small collection of church treasures, open in the summer months. Continue along the road past the chapel and you’ll arrive after 10 minutes at the Church of Our Lady of Raselj (Gospe od Raselje), a church of medieval origins that contains a miracle-working image of the Virgin. Inside, model ships hang from the ceiling as a gesture of thanks from devout sailors.

ZLARIN TOURIST BOARD QSunčana obala 14, tel. (+385-22) 55 35 57, www.tzzlarin.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00.

ETNO MUSEUM ZLARINKA QNiz Bebana bb, tel. (+385-22 ) 55 37 33/(+385-) 098 87 03 76. Open by prior arrangement. Admission 10/5 kn.

THE ZLARIN LEGEND The highest point of the Klepac Island is 169 meters high and the church of Mary from Rašelj was to be built there.

Things however did not go to plan - a group of people found a piece of wood with the image of the Madonna in Zlarin (the place of today’s church) and they took it up to Klepac to the place of the planned church. The next morning, that same wooden image of the Madonna appeared in Zlarin where it was found, and from there it was decided that that would be the home of the church in Zlarin. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings ŽIRJE Of Šibenik County’s permanently populated islands, Žirje is both the largest, and the furthest out to sea. With a scattering of private accommodation but no hotels (and, like Kaprije, virtually no motor transport), it is something of a Shangri-la among tourists for whom the phrase “getting away from it all” really means what it says. Most of the island is covered in maquis, although vines, olives and figs make up an important part of the landscape. Newly marked bicycle- and footpaths provide an ideal means of exploring the island.

National parks KORNATI Croatia is a country full of spectacular maritime landscapes, and the Kornati Islands represent one of the most bewitching of the lot. An archipelago comprising roughly 150 islands, the largely uninhabited Kornati are famous for exuding a barren, bleak mystique. Most of the islands are arid affairs, with a thin covering of tawny-brown grass punctuated by limestone outcrops and spiky shrubs. Many of the islands on the western side of the archipelago feature spectacular cliffs, rising some 80 metres above sea level in the case of those on the island of Klobučar, while man-made features include the dry-stone walls that streak across age-old pasturelands. Lapped by clear seas, the islands constitute an area of extraordinary natural beauty, and 89 of them fall under the protection of the Kornati National Park, founded in 1980.

Eighty percent of the Kornati are privately owned by families from Murter, who use the islands to graze sheep, plant olives or harvest honey. The islands have no permanent population, although parts of the archipelago are seasonally inhabited by Murter shepherds, marina staff serving the summer influx of yachting folk, or tourists seeking complete seclusion. The church of our Lady of Tarac on the island of Kornat is still the focus of an annual pilgrimage on the first Sunday of July, when the population of Murter heads for the island in a festive flotilla of boats.

Etnoland Dalmati Archives

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Boat tours of the Kornati islands are available throughout the summer, most departing at around 09:00 and returning towards 18:00. Most of the tourist agencies from Zadar to Primošten offer these trips - expect to pay 250-300Kn per person, including lunch on the boat or one of the islands and maybe the odd glass of wine on the journey back. These day trips provide a general idea of the Kornati landscape, but to appreciate them to the full you most definitely need your own boat – and a couple of days to spare. For yachtsmen, ACI marinas exist on the island of Piškera, inside the boundaries of the Park, and on Žut, just outside it. Yachtsmen will have to buy an entrance ticket to the national park, sold by the Kornati National Park office in Murter, marinas in the islands themselves, in some charter companies, travel agencies from Zadar to Primošten. Or from the receptionist in the “mobile” receptions who are patrolling the Kornati waters by speedboats.

KORNATI NATIONAL PARK QButina 2, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 57 40, www.npkornati.hr. Entrance tickets cost 240 - 10 000kn depend‑ ing on the size of the boat and period of the year.

KRKA Much of the landscape inland from Šibenik is shaped by the Krka, the 72.5km-long river that rises in the arid karst near Knin before flowing towards the Adriatic via a spectacular series of rugged canyons, azure lakes and tumbling waterfalls. The valley’s most dramatic stretches, between Skradin and 3.5km downstream of Knin, fall under the protection of the Krka National Park (Nacionalni park Krka), which is visited by an average of one million people a year.

About 90% of these visitors never get any further than Skradinski buk (the most dramatic of seven sets of rapids within the park), whose foaming waters are reproduced on the cover of many a tourist brochure. However there is much more to the Krka than Skradinski buk, especially in the upper (northern) reaches of the park, where visitor facilities and trekking routes are recently being developed. Fauna in the park includes roe deer, wild boar, and the more elusive wolves and badgers. The rocky sides of the valley play host to various communities of bats, who play an important role in eating mosquitoes and other irritating waterside insects.

It’s also an area rich in historical resonances, with ruins of fortresses recalling the region’s erstwhile status as a disputed borderland between warring empires, and waterside monasteries providing evidence of a rich spiritual culture.

Visiting the park There are five main entrance points to the park. The first is the town of Skradin (Open 08:00 - 18:00 July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00) where the National Park Information Centre sells tickets, provides brochures, and contains an educative audio-visual display detailing the flora and fauna of the park. There is also a boat service (hourly in season) from Skradin to Skradinski buk. The second is Lozovac (Open 08:00 - 18:00 July, August Open 08:00 - 20:00), on the plateau above the Krka, from where you can descend to Skradinski buk either on foot (20min) or via shuttle bus. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings

The third is Roški slap (June - August Open 09:00 - 20:00), although the road is narrow and there is not much parking space. The fourth is at Burnum (Open 10:00 - 18:00 July, August Open 09:00 -20:00) on the road from Kistanje towards Knin and the last one is Kistanje (Open 10:00 - 18:00 July, August Open 10:00 - 20:00). (During the other months please check the Park’s Web site or give them a call to check opening hours.)

Daily tickets (180kn adults, children 130kn) and threevisit tickets (320kn adults, children 200kn) that includes three visits to the Park within a one week period from the date of purchase and can be bought at Skradin branch office or at the entrance points described above. The ticket price includes rides on the national park’s shuttle boats from Skradin to Skradinski buk, but does not include travel on excursion boats heading further north into the park – these must be paid for separately.

Skradinski buk Most popular part of the park is Skradinski buk, where the Krka flows over a series of waterfalls and rapids formed by the gradual build up of dam-like barriers of travertine, the limestone sediment that settles on branches, grasses and moss to form a solid substance. This is very much an ongoing process, with Skradinski buk’s travertine barriers growing and changing shape at a rate of 1-2mm per year. The travertine at Skradinski buk has created 17 principal falls, each of which is made up of multiple cataracts. The place gets its name from the Croatian word buka (“racket”), a reffacebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

erence to the noise generated by the water rushing over the rapids. Skradinski buk was once a milling settlement at which the rushing waters of the Krka were harnessed to power a variety of machines. Some of the stone mill buildings have been restored, and visitors can see working examples of flour and fulling mills, alongside displays of traditional costumes and agricultural implements.

Just below the mills is the Imperial Belvedere (Carski vidikovac), a small balustrade lookout point built for visiting Habsburg monarch Franz Joseph I in 1875.

A little further downstream are the ruins of Jaruga 1, the hydroelectric power station built by Šibenik mayor Ante Šupuk and brother Marko Šupuk in 1895. It was the second AC-generating hydroelectric project in the world, the Forbes dam on the Niagara Falls having been completed just months previously. The Šupuks formed a private company in order to build and manage the power station, the first of its kind in Dalmatia. When Šupuk died in 1904, the whole of Šibenik’s electric lighting was switched off in his honour.

Immediately downstream from Jaruga 1 is a wooden bridge that crosses a wide pool of river water right below the biggest of Skradinski buk’s waterfalls. This broad stretch of shallow water is Skradinski buk where you are allowed to swim, although a barrier of plastic buoys prevents bathers from getting right up close to the waterfall itself. On the other side of the river is a network of trails leading up and down the hillside beside many of Skradin’s tumbling streams, many on raised wooden boardwalks built on stilts to keep your feet dry during bouts of seasonal flooding.

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Šibenik Surroundings Ključica Hovering above the river Čikola, which flows into the Krka just upstream from Skradinski Buk, Ključica Fortress is part of the fortification system developed by the medieval Nelipić family, who controlled the trade routes between Šibenik and Bosnia and levied duty on goods transported in both directions. The Nelipić clan’s tight grip on commerce was much resented by others in the region, and Ključica was sacked by forces from Šibenik in the mid-14th century.

Subsequently occupied by the Ottomans, it fell into disuse when they were driven out by the Venetians in 1684.

Roški slap Excursion boats continue from Visovac to Roški slap 5km north, a barrier of foaming waterfalls and cataracts that marks the northern end of Visovac lake. Roški slap is also accessible by car from the west (via minor roads from Đevrske) or the east (via minor roads from Pakovo Selo), although parking space is limited when you get there. As at Skradinski buk, there is a restored millers’ settlement beside the river, with displays of milling and weaving techniques inside.

Visovac Monastery Boat trips from Skradinski buk head up the river into the socalled Visovac Lake, a stretch of the Krka which measures 800m from shore to shore at its widest points. Grey-green hills rise steeply on either side. Main destination for the excursion boats is Visovac Monastery, picturesquely located on an island 7km upstream from Skradinski buk. A Franciscan foundation has existed on this site since at least the 14th century, although the church we see today was built in 1576. Long a centre of Catholic Christianity in the region, it nowadays holds a seminary, as well as being the site of a much-visited church. A decree issued by Ottoman Sultan Mehmet IV, returning Visovac to the Franciscans in 1674, is held in the monastery treasury. Upstream from Visovac, the ruins of Kamičak fortress can be seen on the cliffs above the eastern shore. Again built by the Nelipić family in the 13th century, it was demolished by the conquering Ottomans after 1522.

Krka Monastery and beyond Located on the western bank of the Krka about 10km north of Roški slap (and accessible via minor road from Kistanje), the Monastery of the Archangel Michael is arguably the best known of Croatia’s handful of Orthodox monasteries.

It was founded in 1345 thanks to an endowment by Princess Jelena, a sister of the Serbian Tsar Dušan who married a Croatian prince of the Šubić family. Famous for its Romanesque bell tower and arcaded cloister, the monastery is also known for its early-Christian catacombs – although they are not always open to visitors.

Roughly opposite the monastery is another of the Nelipić cliff-top fortresses, Bogočin.

North of the monastery lies the most dramatic stretch of the river, a narrow winding canyon with sheer sides.

Perched on cliffs on either side of the canyon are two of the park’s most dramatic fortresses, Nečven to the east, and Trošenj immediately opposite to the west. Trošenj

Vodice Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Milan Balaban

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sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings

Hotel Zora Primošten Archives

once served as the power base of the Croatian Šubić family, although the Ottomans subsequently turned it into a gaol.

It was notorious as a place of execution - throwing offenders from high windows being the favoured form of capital punishment.

Burnum Just outside the park’s western boundary, the road from Kistanje to Knin forges across maquis-covered karst, passing the site of Burnum, the 1st-century Roman legionary camp that subsequently developed into a civilian settlement. On the western side of the road lie the remains of an amphitheatre, while further up to the east are the remaining two arches of the former military command post. An educational hiking trail goes from Burnum to the Manojlovac viewpoint.

Puljane Eco Campus Two kilometres north of Burnum, a turn-off to the east twists its way down into the canyon of the Krka, crossing the river at Brljansko lake and climbing up onto the plateau on the opposite side. A signed exit leads to an Archeological display devoted to finds from nearby Burnum opened in 2010. There is also a look-out point affording fine views of the canyon.

FRANCISCAN MONASTERY OF THE MOTHER OF MERCY (FRANJEVAČKI SAMOSTAN MAJKE OD MILOSTI) QVisovac, www.np-krka.hr/. Boat tickets 50 - 130kn.

PUBLIC INSTITUTE OF KRKA NATIONAL PARK QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www.np-krka.hr/. Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. THE BURNUM ARCHAEOLOGICAL COLLECTION AT PULJANE ECO CAMPUS QPuljane, Oklaj, www.np-krka.hr/. Open 10:00 - 18:00.

THE MONASTERY OF THE ARCHANGEL MICHAEL (MANASTIR KRKA) QCarigradska draga, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www. npkrka.hr. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

North of Šibenik The main resort on this stretch of coast is Vodice, complete with big hotels and boisterous nightlife, although the smaller coastal settlements of Pirovac and Tribunj provide quieter alternatives.

MURTER Although joined to the mainland by a short and stumpy bridge, Murter is technically an island and still feels like a self-contained world of its own. Relatively low on largesized package hotels, Murter has developed a regular clientele of independently-minded tourists who sleep in the island’s plentiful supply of private rooms and apartments, and - although it can be busy in summer - it has a more laid-back atmosphere than the mainland towns.

Murter is also a beautiful, relatively unspoiled parcel of Adriatic nature, made up of a sequence of rocky hillocks, pines and tamarisks, and acre upon acre of olive trees - many growing wild amid thorny Mediterranean maquis. Piles of stone heaped up on the hillside recall the times when local villagers cleared the rocky ground to create small patches of cultivable land, collecting the spoil into thick dry-stone walls that have slowly collapsed with time, creating the enigmatic cones and pyramids seen today. Over to the west are the alluring profiles of the Kornati islands, and it is Murter’s status as main gateway to the Kornati National Park that brings a constant stream of nautically-inclined visitors.

Tisno Tisno is Dalmatian dialect for ‘narrow’, which is an accurate description of the town’s location, hugging both shores of the narrow strait that divides the island of Murter from the Croatian mainland. The bridge that spans the strait is raised at regular intervals (twice a day in summer, at 9am and 5pm) to allow boats to pass through the town.

There is an engaging huddle of old buildings in the historic core of the town on the south side of the bridge, where the 18th century Katunarić Palace contains a small history display including finds from a Roman villa at nearby Plitka Uvala bay. Paths lead up beyond the Parish Church of the Holy Spirit (Crkva svetog Duha) to the hilltop shrine of Our Lady of Caravaggio (Gospe od Karavaja), a popular pilgrimage site established by families who moved here from Summer 2018

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Šibenik Surroundings northern Italy in the late 17th century. There are sumptuous views of the surrounding countryside from the top.

Back at sea level, the town’s long coastline on both sides of the straits makes it perfect for extended shoreline strolls.

The rock-and-pebble beaches at Lovišča (southwest) and Jazina (northwest) are ideal for a family-oriented splashingaround holiday.

Jezera Tourist Board Archives

BETINA MUSEUM OF WOODEN SHIPBUILDING The village of Betina on the island of Murter has a centuries-long tradition of wooden shipbuilding which is still well and truly alive today. Learn more about this fascinating craft through modern technology which helps visitors vividly sense the cultural background to the story behind this age old tradition. You can buy beautiful, authentic and eco-friendly souvenirs in the museum shop and FYI; it was recently awarded the ‘2018 Best European Museum that works with its local residents’.QVladimira Nazora 7, Betina, tel. (+38522) 43 41 05, www.mbdb.hr. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. June Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. July, August Open 10:00 - 22:00. 30/20 kn.

BIKING There is a growing choice of activity opportunities on the mainland too, with cycling and hiking the increasingly popular draws.

In the Skradin/Krka area, there are marked cycle paths from Skradin to the waterfalls of Skradinski buk, and from Skradin to the Bribirska Glavica archeological site.

There are a couple of bicycle rental points in Skradin during the summer.

Some of the most exhilarating cycle itineraries are in hinterland of Primošten, where a network of marked routes make use of both tarmac roads and gravelly offroad trails to explore ancient villages such as Draga, Široke and Burnji together with their hillside-hugging vineyards and olive groves.

Vodice has its marked cycling roads that connect all the archeological and cultural landmarks on the mainland, as well as the road for the Croatian Cup - MTB tour as well.

The island of Murter is also good for biking, especially in spring and autumn when there is not too much traffic on the roads.

At the northwestern end of Šibenik county, the seaside resort of Pirovac provides access to the eastern end of the Vransko Jezero nature park, where several biking trails have been marked.

You can get a map at any of the respective tourist offices.

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Jezera A relatively tranquil port sprawling around a broad bay.

Jezera (“the Lakes”) gets its name from the seasonal ponds that used to appear on the outskirts of the entrance to the village. One of them, called Lokva (”Puddle”), still exists behind the Parish Church and fills with water in rainy periods of the spring and autumn. The other one, known as Blato (“Mud”), further south, was filled in during the early 20th century and is now grazing land. Jezera’s pretty centre spreads horseshoe-style around a bay raked with yacht jetties and breakwaters. The hilltop chapel of Sveti Rok (immediately south of the Lokva) provides an easy target for recreational hikers. The best beaches are a long walk (or short drive) south of the village, in coves such as Podjasenovac and Kromašna. The rural tracks linking Jezera with these and other bays forge their way through olive groves and are ideal for cycling.

Murter With a cluster of stone houses at its core and an extensive suburban spread of modern villas, Murter constitutes a relaxing blend of Dalmatian history and easy-going modern vacations. Most Murter families were granted farm land on the nearby Kornati islands in the past, which explains why most of the houses in Murter face out to sea, with a small jetty and boat mooring serving as some kind of aquatic front door. Locals do indeed claim that Murter has the highest number of boats in proportion to the local population than anywhere else in the Mediterranean. Of the several yachting marinas in Murter, the ACI marina at the northern end of town is one of the best equipped in the Adriatic, with a big repair yard.

Everything in Murter revolves around the irregular-shaped, café-lined town square, Trg Rudina, which opens out towards a palm-lined seafront promenade at its northern end. Stroll west from here along the narrow alleyway known as Luke to enjoy a taste of Murter’s traditional stone architecture. One of the most atmospheric parts of town is Selo, grouped around a cone-shaped hill 800 metres south of the seafront. The narrow streets of Selo lead uphill towards St Rock’s Chapel (Kapelica svetog Roka), a gleaming whitewashed building that is the site of a major religious procession on St Rock’s Day (August 16). From the chapel’s forecourt you can enjoy a stupendous panorama of Murter with the lumpy brown-green forms of the Kornati islands rising up in the distance. The narrow streets below the chapel contain some of the oldest and most picturesque of Murter’s stone houses.

Rising beyond the yachting marina on the northeast side of town is the scrub-covered hill known as Gradina, site of sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings

an Illyrian fortress subsequently occupied by the Romans who went on to build the settlement of Colentum on the hill’s slopes. Follow the shoreline path around the graveyard of the Church of Our Lady of Gradina (Crkva gospe od Gradina) and you will arrive at a the former site of a Roman villa, its walls partially rebuilt by conservationists to provide an idea of what it once looked like.

There is not a great deal else of Colentum to see (much of it lies underwater), but the bayside location is a powerfully evocative spot.

Betina Over on the northeastern side of the Gradina headland (and within easy walking distance of Murter), the village of Betina used to be a major ship-building centre and part of the seafront is still taken up by small repair yards catering for yachts and local fishing boats. At the centre of the settlement is a kasbah-like maze of narrow alleys grouped around the Parish Church of St Francis (Crkva svetog Frane), famous for its distinctive octagonal belfry topped by a bulbous red dome and spindly weather vane.

Most popular of Murter’s beaches is Slanica, 1.5km west of the main square, a part-shingle part-sand beach that gets crowded in summer. There are bars and a pizzeria behind the beach, and coastal paths that lead to rockier (and potentially more secluded) parts of the coast in either direction.

BETINA TOURIST BOARD QDolac 2a, tel. (+385-22) 43 65 22, www.tz-betina.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Follow the coastal path south from Slanica and you will arrive after 20-30 minutes at Čigrađa beach, an attractive crescent of pebble bordered by a jetty for small boats. Behind the beach lies a cool beach bar in the shape of Lantana (see p.35) and a well-regarded seafood restaurant (the Čigrađa, see p.29). Čigrađa can also be reached by road from the centre of Murter - take the main southbound road out of town and turn right when you see the sign.

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JEZERA TOURIST BOARD QPut Zaratića 3, tel. (+385-22) 43 91 20, www.tzjezera. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat and Sun. From June 15 Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 21:00.

MURTER - KORNATI TOURIST BOARD QRudina bb, tel. (+385-22) 43 49 95, www.tzo-murter. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 12:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

TISNO TOURIST BOARD QIstočna Gomilica 1a, tel. (+385-22) 43 86 04, www.tztisno.hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. Summer 2018

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VODICE

Occupying a semicircular peninsula 23km north of Šibenik, Pirovac centres on a palm-splashed sea front bordered by a tidy agglomeration of modern houses and holiday villas. A gate in a surviving stretch of town wall leads through to the historic centre of town, a cluster of ancient stone houses and cobbled alleys grouped around a 16th-century parish church.

Twelve kilometres north of Šibenik, Vodice is the mostvisited tourist resort in the region, with modern hotel developments on either side of its broad bay and a large and well-equipped yachting marina in the middle. There is a small nucleus of historic buildings and narrow streets in the centre of Vodice, surrounded by a pleasantly low-rise sprawl of family houses and tourist-oriented apartment buildings. Vodice’s beaches consist mostly of concrete, gravel and pebble, so don’t get too excited about building any sandcastles.

The town gets its name from the many sources of drinkable water in the area (voda is Croatian for “water”). Indeed the city of Šibenik was supplied by ship with drinking water from Vodice right up until the 1870s, when its own piped water system was constructed.

Grandest of the old buildings in the centre is the Ćorić Tower, sole surviving remnant of fortifications built in the 15th century to defend the town against the Ottomans. A solidlooking townhouse nearby holds the Vodice Aquarium, which contains an entertaining and educational display of Adriatic sea creatures, which - featuring sea bream, sea bass and dentex - looks rather like a 3-D menu for the seafood restaurants you might be eating in later. Upstairs is a fine collection of antique amphorae salvaged by underwater archeologists, and an impressive collection of model boats from all ages and countries - they range from traditional Croatian fishing vessels to the 17th-century Swedish warship Wasa, that famously sank within twenty minutes of its launch.

PIROVAC TOURIST BOARD QKralja Krešimira IV br. 6, tel. (+385-22) 46 67 70, www. tz-pirovac.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Closed Sat and Sun. From June 15 - September 15 Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

TRIBUNJ Thirty minutes’ walk along the seafront from Vodice, Tribunj is a relatively calm fishing village centred on a thumbshaped island joined to the mainland by a bridge. There’s a tight cluster of old houses on the island itself, and a large yachting marina on the opposite side of the bay.

Overlooking the bridge on the mainland side is the Parish Church of Our Lady (Crkva velike Gospe), a 19th-century building containing a cluster of neo-Baroque altars and a shrine to Saint Nicholas (the patron of sea-farers) that features an intricate model ship. For those who need to stretch their legs, a path leads up behind Tribunj’s parish church towards the hilltop chapel of St Nicholas, passing shrines marking the Stations of the Cross on the way. There are splendid views of the coastline from the summit.

To the west of Tribunj, Sovlja is a small settlement resting on a shallow inlet, with a rock-and-pebble beach that’s a peaceful alternative to those in nearby Vodice.

Tribunj’s other main claim to fame is the festival of donkey races that takes place every year in the first week of August.

The traditional local affection for the four-legged braying beast is nurtured by the Tribunj-based Hrvatski Tovar (“Croatian Donkey”) organization, formed in 1999. There is a donkey reserve on the island of Logorun just offshore to the southwest.

TRIBUNJ TOURIST BOARD QBadnje bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 61 43, www.tz-tribunj. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Closed Sat. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00.

VELIKA MRDAKOVICA ARAUZONA History and mystery combined! Arauzona is a rich archaeological site from the pre-Roman and Roman times where about one-hundred tombs have been discovered, some dating back from the 4th century B.C. Once a Roman settlement, some residential buildings were also found with signs of defensive walls, streets and water tanks.

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AQUARIUM AND MUSEUM OF THE MARITIME TRADITION QObala Matice hrvatske 33, tel. (+385-) 098 35 30 63/ (+385-) 098 21 46 34, www.aquarium-vodice.com.

From June Open 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 25/20 kn.

VODICE TOURIST BOARD QObala Vladimira Nazora bb, tel. (+385-22) 44 38 88, www.vodice.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. June Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.

July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.

South of Šibenik South of Šibenik stretches a heavily indented coastline lined with low-key villages boasting a variety of pebbly and rocky beaches. The main resorts here are Primošten, 21km south of Šibenik, equipped with a cluster of well-patronized hotels; and Rogoznica slightly further on, site of one of the region’s biggest yachting marinas.

One the way there you’ll pass plenty of characterful, quieter spots. Grebaštica lies on a long thin bay overlooked by the ruins of a Venetian defensive wall.

Dolac, just south of Grebaštica, is a small coastal village whose seafront is made up primarily of slabs of rock - perfect platforms for a summer skin-roasting session. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Šibenik Surroundings

PRIMOŠTEN Catching sight of Primošten from the coastal road is one of the many love-at-first-sight experiences that the Croatian Adriatic has to offer. An attractive old town is squeezed onto an thumb of land jutting into a turquoise sea, while the wooded peninsula of Raduča sprouts off to the north, fringed by a large and splendid gravel beach.

Primošten’s origins go back to the Ottoman conquest of Bosnia in 1463, when the Croatian-speaking population of the interior increasingly sought refuge on the Adriatic coast.

The oval-shaped island known as Gola Glava (“Bare Head”) was one of the places they settled. A wooden bridge was constructed to join the island onto the mainland, and the resulting town became known as Primošten (which might be loosely translated as “the place with a bridge across”).

As the Ottoman threat receded, the wooden bridge was replaced by a stone causeway, turning Primošten into the peninsula town that visitors see today.

On the landward side of the causeway is the dainty stoneroofed Chapel of St Rock (1680), beside which is a statue of Don Ivo Šarić (1915-1944), who attempted to protect the local population against atrocities by both Italian and German occupiers during World War II, before finally being murdered by the latter. In front of the statue stretches a typically sweet-smelling Adriatic garden filled with lavender bushes, rosemary, and a clutch of palm trees. Presiding over the causeway to the Old Town is a much-loved piece of sculpture depicting a local fisherman accompanied by wife and donkey. At the opposite end of the causeway, an facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

arched gate leads through a stretch of crenellated wall into the Old Town, where a tangle of narrow streets surround the 15th-century parish church of St George.

Much favoured by Hollywood director Orson Welles (who had a summer villa here), the beaches of Raduča are packed with bathers in summer.

Inland from Primošten Occupying the high ground uphill from Primošten is an enchanting area of maquis-choked villages and country lanes lined by dry stone walls. Densely planted with olives and vines, this was the agricultural heartland of the region until tourism took off and the working lives of the locals become focused on the coast. All of the villages here have suffered rural depopulation, and once profitable crops have been left to go to seed - although an increasing number of local families are returning to their ancestral properties and revitalizing the olive groves.

The region’s rich stock of traditional stone buildings is increasingly appreciated too, as can be seen from the popularity of the restored Jurlinovi Dvori farmstead in the hillside village of Draga. As well as containing ethnographic displays and an art gallery, Jurlinovi Dvori also offers food and drink, and has become a major tourist attraction as a result. Most of the visitors are pre-booked groups, although individual tourists are welcome to look around as well. The restored farmstead represents the life’s work of local priest Don Stipe Perkov, who was born in the main house and whose family have been masters of the property for several generations. The farmstead consists of a 300-year-old Summer 2018

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Šibenik Surroundings AGRITOURISM BANOVI DVORI Twelve kilometres inland from Tisno on a well-signed country road, Banovi dvori serves up authentic local culinary treats in a modern but nevertheless atmospheric dining room with wooden ceiling beams, stuffed animals above the bar, and an all-pervading aroma of good cooking. Speciality of the house is lamb or veal cooked under a peka, a metal lid covered in glowing embers. These meals take two hours to prepare, which is why it is a good idea to ring and reserve early in the day - or risk going hungry. Accompanied by potatoes baked in the same pot, the resulting meals are wonderfully succulent and generously-portioned: ask for a doggy bag if you can’t quite finish your dinner off in one go. The house wine (red Plavina or white Debit) comes from the owner’s back-garden plantation. He sells self-produced olive oil, honey and rakija to boot.QDubrava kod Tisnog, Tisno, tel. (+385- 22) 46 63 79/(+385-) 098 33 68 85, www.banovidvori. com.hr/. Open by prior arrangement.

ETNOLAND Set out on a journey, into the heart of Dalmatian culture. Starting in serene Pakovo Selo, you can take a 1 hour award-winning tour (guided or self guided) through the village where you will listen to ancient tales, see and learn about Dalmatian customs and traditions, walk through authentic stone houses, and more. According to your wishes, a traditional dinner or lunch is provided with roast under the iron bell, grappa, wine, and prosciutto tasting (price from 15€).

The tour is arranged by appointment and there are packages available which include transport at www. dalmati.com – Awarded the best tourist attraction offer in continental Croatia, 2012 and best interpretation of cultural heritage in Croatia 2016.

QPut Čikole 4, Pakovo Selo, Drniš, tel. (+385-) 099 220 02 00, www.dalmati.com. Open by prior arrangement. Tour price with included tastings 7 10€.

KALPIĆ There’s a feel to this homestead; the stunning old stone house - built in the traditional style and located near the Krka National Park - is an eye catcher. Then there’s the taste of life and cuisine from the typical Dalmatian countryside. Here you will find a garden with home-grown vegetables, traditional local specialties such as baked bread, prosciutto, smoked ham, cheese, and roasted peka meals...paradise on earth.QKalpići 4, Lozovac, tel. (+385-) 091 584 55 20, www.kalpic. com. Open by prior arrangement. 6­B­X

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main building where visitors can see traditional textiles, a restored kitchen and an antiquated-looking rakija still. On the opposite side of a terraced garden are several outbuildings that were acquired by the family later, holding a small museum of church silverware and a picture gallery of works donated by contemporary Croatian artists. For more information see Agritourism on page 51.

Primošten Vineyards The best of Šibenik county’s velvety Babić wine comes from the vineyards ranged across the hills around Primošten, a geometric cluster of small rectangular plots owned by individual local families. With each of these rectangular parcels surrounded by a dry-stone wall, the vine-bearing hillside terraces look strikingly decorative when seen from a distance, and are somewhat appropriately described as the “stone lace of Primošten” in local tourist literature.

These terraces are the result of generations of back-breaking toil: the rocks that cover the local landscape had to be laboriously broken up in order to create cultivable patches of land. Primošten’s oldest vineyards probably date from the 16th century, although extra impetus to their development was provided by post-World-War-II land redistribution, when the area around the Kremik Gulf southwest of town was divided up and shared out among the locals. Over the course of ten years hillside terraces were built, fields were cleared and dividing walls were erected with geometrical precision, producing the unique vineyard landscape that can be seen today. Such is its beauty that the Croatian government is considering putting the Primošten Vineyards forward as a candidate for inclusion on the UNESCO’s World Heritage List.

Best way to admire the vineyards is to head for Kremik yachting marina, which lies at the bottom of several terraced slopes. Several foot- and bicycle paths allow visitors to explore the landscape at close quarters.

PRIMOŠTEN TOURIST BOARD QTrg Josipa Biskupa Arnerića 2, tel. (+385-22) 57 11 11, www.tz-primosten.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:00.

ROGOZNICA Southernmost of Šibenik County’s seaside resorts is Rogoznica, an attractive island village joined to the mainland by a 100-metre-long bridge. With a huddle of stone houses rising above a palm-splashed Riva, it’s an undeniably attractive spot, and the Frapa marina on the opposite side of the bay has made it a hugely popular destination with the yachting crowd. Situated on the western fringe of the village, Frapa is open to outsiders, with a central semicircular building holding restaurants, bars and a nightclub. Just behind the marina is Zmajevo Oko (“Eye of the Dragon”), a crater-like salt-water lake surrounded by grey cliffs. North of the marina is the Gradina peninsula, boasting a significant stretch of pebble beach backed by dense pines.

ROGOZNICA TOURIST BOARD QObala Kneza Domagoja 56, tel. (+385-22) 55 92 53, www.loverogoznica.eu/. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. From June Open 08:00 - 21:00. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

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Leisure ADRENALINE RUSH Packages which offer activities for adults (18+) with an element of thrill and danger (scuba diving, rock climbing, wind surfing,…)

ADRIATIC BIG GAME FISHING Departures from Vodice or surrounding area — Biograd, Primošten, etc. Fishing for tuna and other big game fish.

QNikola Subic Zrinski 2, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 098 923 50 26, www.game-fishing-adriatic.com. ​Full-day boat charter: 800 euros for max 4-5 people. Price includes fuel, equipment, food and drink.

BUNGEE JUMPING Leaping from the bridge over the Krka river is an amazing experience, or so those who have tried it tell us. An experience both for the person jumping, and for their loved ones watching with their hearts in their mouths. Fancy stretching out a few ligaments? On your own head be it…QŠibenik Bridge, tel. (+385-) 091 195 19 30/(+385-) 091 253 12 98, www.bungee.com.hr. July 1 - August 31 Open 10:00 - 20:00. Fri, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. 280kn (jump).

DISCOVER DALMATIA TOURIST AGENCY Rafting on Cetina river.QSplitska 12, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 64 37 75, www.discover-dalmatia.hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00. A

SCUBA DIVING There are scuba diving centres throughout the region, although it is on the island of Krapanj - long famous as the centre of the Adriatic sponge-diving industry - that it has the longest tradition. Skradin, with its access to the sea inlet known as the Prukljansko jezero is an important training base for rowers, canoeists and kayakers.

DIVING CENTER TRAMONTO QStjepana Radića 13, Tisno, tel. (+385-) 098 84 32 33, www.divetramonto.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

MEDITERRANEO SUB QObala I 58, Hotel Spongiola, Krapanj, tel. (+385-) 091 539 40 07/(+385-) 091 738 80 31, www.mediterraneosub.com. Open 09:00 - 21:00.

NAJADA DIVING QPut Jersan 17, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 60 20/(+385-) 098 959 24 15, www.najada.com. Open 08:00 - 15:00.

From June Open 08:00 - 17:00. N VERTIGO DIVING CENTER QAnte Lučića Bortula 3, Tisno, tel. (+385-) 098 20 90 73/(+385-) 098 171 47 70, www.vertigo.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00.

VODICE DIVE QVenca Vlahova 15, Vodice, tel. (+385-) 098 919 62 33/ (+385-) 098 191 45 97, www.vodice-dive.com. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00.

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Banj Beach, Šibenik Tourist Board Archives

EXCURSIONS These are agencies which offer one-day trips and longer trips to suit your needs (Kornati and Krka excursion, Plitvice…).

CROMOVENS QD‑3, Andrije Kačića Miošića 11, tel. (+385-22) 21 25 15, www.cromovens.hr. Open 08:30 - 15:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. KOLA FJAKA Trips to Krka and Kornati National Parks.QE‑3, Dobrić 4, tel. (+385-22) 24 48 08/(+385-) 095 567 69 28, www. kola-fjaka.com. Open June, September 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Open July, August 09:00 - 21:00. A NIK Trips to Krapanj, Zlarin, Krka and Kornati National Parks..

QAnte Šupuka 5, tel. (+385-22) 33 85 50, www.nik.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun. A TOURIST PUNKT ŠIBENIK PLUS Promoting slow tourism, this agnecy creates more intimate special theme tours, like Cool night tour, Eco, Wine and dine or In search of the lost Mediterranean, one day tour on a traditional wooden boat consisting of sailing through Šibenik archipelago and a visit to unique islands Prvić and Zlarin. ...Accommodation and rentals too.QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 7, tel. (+385-22) 41 02 59/(+385) 095 914 24 49, www.sibenikplus.com. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun.

FAMILY FUN These listed places offer organised activities for both kids and adults, day trips to devour, and safe sporting activities (i.e. horse riding, kayaking…)

AQUAPARK DALMATIA Lots of fun for every family member; pools, slides and crazy rides!QSolaris Beach Resort, Hoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 01, www.aquapark-dalmatia.com/. Ad‑ mission 110/80kn. No admission for kids 0-3 years old.

DALMATIAN ETHNO VILLAGE A special feature available to individual guests not staying at Solaris Resort. It gives you a chance to experience all the aspects of traditional Dalmatia, through stone houses, traditional crafts, local food and wine, evening performances of klape singing groups... just being a part of the whole sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Leisure experience. Different options of tours guided or selfguided with or without eating are available; the hostess at the entrance will inform you.QSolaris Beach Resort, Hoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 10 51, www.solaris. hr/dalmatinsko-etno-selo/. Open 12:00 - 14:30, 19:00 - 23:00. Ethno Tour 10€ per person, kids 6€. T­E­K ŠIBENIK FALCONRY CENTRE Located in woods near Dubrava 8km north of the city centre, the Šibenik Falconry Centre was founded in 2000 to protect birds of prey and educate the local public about wildlife conservation issues. As a collection centre for injured birds, kept here before being returned to the wild, it has become a major tourist attraction.

The centre receives birds of prey from all over Croatia, most of which are victims of their interaction with human civilization: typical cases include birds injured by collisions with cars or electric fences, birds orphaned by hunters, or birds that were inappropriately kept as pets by humans.

The majority are successfully treated and returned to the wild.

Individual visitors are free to admire and photograph any birds currently kept in the Centre’s holding cages (buzzards and eagle owls being the most numerous patients), a wonderful experience that will bring you face to face with creatures that you would normally never see at such close quarters. Pre-booked groups may also be treated to displays of falconry.QŠkugori 47a, Dubrava kod Šibenika, tel. (+385-) 091 506 76 10, www.sokolarskicentar.eu.

Open 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 45/35 kn.

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BEACHES BANJ The beach is over 12000 square meters and also includes facilities such as a skate park, basketball court, beach volleyball, free-climbing, open air cinema, cafes and restaurants, a children’s playground, and more.QJ‑2.

JADRIJA Poking out to sea on the western side of St Anthony’s Channel, opposite the Fortress of St Nicholas, the Jadrija peninsula is the site of Šibenik’s municipal lido. During the summer months it can be reached via hourly taxi boat from the Riva. Jadrija was laid out as the municipal beach in 1921 by local benefactor Šime Grubišić Rovilo (1856-1928), and it still has the appearance of an old-style bathing resort, with concrete shoreline platforms and neat functional rows of changing cubicles.

SOLARIS One of the finest beach resorts of the highest regard. It includes beach bars, hotels, restaurants, cafes, sports, markets, yachting, aqua park and kilometres of pebbled beaches to devour. QHoteli Solaris 86. ŽABORIĆ As it is only 10km from Šibenik, Žaborić has a beach that combines sand and pebbles, it is perfect for a family with kids as you can ooze your way into the crystal clean waters.

Don’t forget your sun umbrellas!QŽaborić.

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Shopping

Barone Shop, Fortress of Culture Archives

ANTIQUES ANTIQUE MARKET A small yet charming antiques fair runs only on Fridays and Saturdays during winter, but in the summer season it is open every day except on Sundays. It just may happen that whilst passing by St. Francis’ Church, you find a rare copy of your favourite book or an old pocket watch or painting that will capture your heart and extend your home collection of antique items.QD/E/F‑2, Trg N.Tomasea, tel. (+385-) 098 26 61 67/(+385-) 098 23 58 64, www.antikvar2427.com. Open 09:00 - 20:00. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00. N

ART GALLERIES DANA A beautiful gallery where you can find that special gift, souvenir, or ornament, big or small, they have it all! All items and works are handmade by Croatian designers, painters, and ceramists... Worth a peek!QE‑3, Dobrić 4, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 47. Open 09:30 - 22:00. J INES VLAŠIĆ GALLERY Family owned gallery that showcase their own form of artwork, in particular jewellery and sculptures.QD‑4, Trg Republike 6, tel. (+385-) 095 695 55 69, www.inesvlasic. com. July - September 30 Open 10:00 - 19:00. A­J JURAJ DALMATINAC GALLERY In a beautiful setting that exudes the Mediterranean, you will find works of art by academic painters, jewel56 Šibenik In Your Pocket

lery and pieces of clothing by Croatian designers, and authentic souvenirs handmade and autochtonic to this area.QE‑3, Don Krste Stošića 14, tel. (+385-) 091 288 79 91, www.galerijajurajdalmatinac.com. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A LANA ART A gallery presenting the work of Lana herself, as well as other artists from Šibenik and all over Croatia.QE‑2, Faus‑ ta Vrančića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 08 91/(+385-) 091 87 98 03. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. A

CROATIAN CREATIONS BOROVO Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…

QE‑3, Kralja Tomislava, tel. (+385-22) 21 24 68, www. borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. From July Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00.

Closed Sun. A CHARLIE DESIGN Our friends’ favourite shop because it is classy, elegant, sophisticated with beautiful clothing materials.QE‑3, Mesarske Stube 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 62 57, www.charliedesign.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00, Closed Sun, From June Open 09:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun. J­A sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Shopping GULIVER High quality accessories from another Croatian manufacturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times but valued.QStjepana Radića 4h, tel. (+385-22) 21 54 97, www.guliver.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. From July Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun.

COFFEE, WINE & TOBACCO Devotees to fine coffee, tea and wine will fall in love with this wonderful store that sells homemade teas, as well as over 100 different varieties of coffee and tea from around the world. Supremo coffee from Columbia or Santo Domingo from the Domincian Republic are just some of the specialties. Here, one can also find local Croatian souvenirs and products.QE‑3, Zagrebačka 7, tel. (+385-22) 20 08 04, www.kupikavuicaj.com. Open 08:00 - 23:30, Sun 08:30 - 22:00. J­A

HR DESIGN FASHION AND ART Escape the summer heat and do some shopping at this specialised store that promotes the works of upcoming and famous Croatian designers and labels which include Lei Lou by Aleksandra Dojčinović, Krie Design, BMS by Zoran Aragović, Karaka Design, Mo Design, Foch, Nives Triva, Alma Fashion, Apsolute i Aksent, as well as jewelry from Berend Art. So why not take the time to find something for you or even take home a homemade souvenir.QD‑3, Don Krste Stošića 4, tel. (+385-22) 24 44 46. Open 09:00 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. A

DELIKATESE VUKŠIĆ This lovely deli shop at the city market is stocked with an abundance of local delicacies such as prosciutto, cheese, olive oil, rakija and honey, as well as famous Slavonian kulen and homemade jams. A real treat for anyone’s tingling taste buds!QAnte Starčevića (green market), tel. (+385-) 098 66 83 73. Open 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

KOKE DESIGN As you straddle by Saint James’ Cathedral this little workshop is packed with colourful and uplifting clothes, bags, scarves, jewellery, and more. It is a tad hippy and there is something that suits everyone’s taste.QE‑3, Kralja Tomis‑ lava bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 29 82, www.kokedesign.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. A

DELICATESSEN BARONE SHOP So you’ve just tried a glass of wine in the bistro that’s tingled the tonsils, then head into the shared space of the Barone bistro and enter its wine shop, here you can buy wines as well as original products by Croatian product designers.QF‑1, Put Vuka Mandušića 28, tel. (+385-) 091 497 55 47, www.barone.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A BIBICH All the Bibich wines are for sale here, as well as local rakijas and delicatessen products.QFra Luje Maruna 21, Sk‑ radin, tel. (+385-22) 77 55 97. Open 10:00 - 18:00. A BOBIS A Split institution, Bobis has been providing Croatian citizens with delectable eats since 1950. In Šibenik’s store you can choose some sweet pastry or a pre-wrapped one to take with you for your hike around the town.QMiminac 2.

Open 07:00 - 21:00.

BRKIĆ Cutting and vacuuming ham domestic production.

QHrvatskih boraca 62, Vodice. Open 07:30 - 14:00, 17:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. N facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

GRACIN A small shop selling a variety of honeys, including sage, rosemary, and the unusual bramble honey (med od drače), plus advice on the amber elixir’s medicinal properties.QPut murve 4, Primošten, tel. (+385-) 091 510 08 19. Open 09:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 23:00. J­N HRVATSKI OTOČNI PROIZVOD (CROATIAN ISLAND PRODUCTS) Delicacies of a tonne, all in one! A fab miniature convenience store with products from small producers across Croatian islands along the Adriatic. Food products, oils, fruit liqueurs, brandy, and jam to natural cosmetics and essential oils, souvenirs of olive wood, national costumes and more. Tip top souvenirs!QF‑3, Trg kralja Tomislava 9. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 18:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

Closed Sun. N ILOČKI PODRUMI Famous quality wines from the renowned wine cellars of the Croatian north-eastern shores of the Danube River can now be found in their own store in Šibenik. Ilok has a long and proud history of wine making and bottling, and is well known for their exclusively sealed cork.QSedam Omelića 1, tel. (+385-22) 33 55 37. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A NIRA DELICIJE When in Dalmatia, eat Dalmatian! Enter and rejoice in local delicacies such as the prestige Drniš prosciutto, pancetta, cheese, honey, honey products, wines, cranberry, orange and lemon rakija. They will pack and slice meat products for you. Take out only!QL‑3, Stjepana Radića 8, tel. (+385-) 099 252 75 01. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A OLEOTEKA UJE Gem of a store which sells various types of olives, olive oils, jams, olive pastes, and products made of the olive tree. It’s all about the Mediterranean gold or as we like to call it, ‘olive oil’.QD‑3, Dragojevića Stube 1, tel. (+385-) 095 198 02 06, www.uje.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A Summer 2018

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Shopping SKRADINSKE DELICIJE As well as running a highly recommended restaurant, this family business produces its own wine, rakija, skradinska torta and a delicious fig jam that is not too sweet and has a uniquely smooth and succulent feel.They have a little kiosk in the car park during the summer months where you can buy their unusual and mouthwatering comestibles.QA‑ leja Skradinskih svilara 8, Skradin, www.skradinskedelicije.hr. June - September Open 08:00 - 24:00.

SV. LOVRO OLIVE OIL RAFINERY Cold pressed olive oil just the way it’s been made here since 1854.QKrapanj, tel. (+385-22) 35 06 95. Open by prior arrangement. N VINOPLOD A shop at the winery gates sells bottles at discount prices – a good opportunity to pick up a bottle or two of Babić.

QVelimira Škorpika 2, Šibenik, tel. (+385-22) 33 40 11, www.vinoplod-vinarija.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. N

SP SUPERNOVA ŠIBENIK QPut Vida 6, tel. (+385-23) 32 73 01, www.supernova. hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June Open 09:00 - 22:00. W

SOUVENIRS ČIVLJAK This little jeweller is famous for puce and bagatin – filigree buttons traditionally worn as a part of folk costume, often elaborate in design.QF‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 64. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A DENI DESIGN Original jewellery hand-made from Adriatic coral and stones.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II bb (Fausta Vrančića 1), tel. (+385-22) 41 00 71. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. A

GREEN MARKET PIJACA The allure of asparagus, the charm of chard. Cheeky tomatoes, apricots as soft as a baby’s bum: who can resist a Mediterranean open air market? Šibenik’s marketplace is not to be missed: it’s full of colour, local produce and crazy characters. Why buy plastic fruit from the supermarket when you can buy the real thing and enjoy some friendly banter into the bargain?QG‑2/3, Stankovačka 9. Open 06:00 - 13:00, Sun 07:00 - 11:00.

SHOPPING CENTRES CITY LIFE QAnte Šupuka 10, tel. (+385-22) 24 48 44, www.citylife.com.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. W DALMARE QVelimira Škorpika 23, tel. (+385-22) 49 24 61, www. dalmare.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, July, August Open 09:00 - 21:00. W

CRVENKAPA (THE RED ŠIBENIK CAP) You might see on your travels in the Šibenik area a distinctive orange-red skullcap worn as a part of folk costume or used as a motif for local restaurants and products. It’s part of the rich folk heritage of this part of the world and is decorated with black wool and silk motifs.

www.inyourpocket.com 58 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Šibenik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Sibenik Hoopla

GALERIJA SV. KRISTOFOR A majestic place of holy and sacral objects that include rosary beads, paintings, sculptures, natural cosmetics and other religious items.QD‑3, Sv. Luce 2, tel. (+385) 092 105 91 64. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 15:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. From June Open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. NP KRKA Traditional souvenirs made by local artisans.QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www.npkrka.hr.

Open 07:00 - 19:00. A sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Where to stay SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R LAN connection 6 Pet-friendly

Šibenik Tourist Board Archives, Photo by Sibenik Hoopla

HOTELS In Croatia hotels are graded two, three, four or five star.

Hotels graded two star are usually managed by the owners, so the advantages include a friendly family atmosphere. The hotels are clean but basic and are equipped very simply.

Three star hotels generally offer rather more spacious accommodation with well-equipped rooms, but the hotel services usually do not include a porter. Three star hotels usually have mid-sized restaurants.

Four star hotels are usually large formal hotels with staffed reception areas and porters. The level of service is significantly above average, the rooms are tastefully furnished and the hotel usually has a good restaurant.

Five star hotels offer the highest quality accommodation.

Although most five star hotels are large, some are small independent hotels (i.e. not part of a chain) offering an elegant intimacy.

Croatia also offers specialised wellness hotels which have opened to meet global demand for health and wellness tourism.

Heritage hotels are located in older buildings of cultural and historic significance. The hotel menu should be representative of local cuisine.

Boutique hotels are luxurious smaller hotels with an intimate atmosphere. They may be part of a larger chain, but they are unique in the way that they are decorated, each room often being different. Here the individual approach is based on anticipating guests’ needs before they even articulate them. These small, luxury hotels are becoming more popular in this region over the last few years as guests become weary of the standard offering.

PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION In Croatia there are more rooms available in private accommodation than in hotels. Family-run hotels are taking on an increasingly important role in Croatian tourism and aim to attract guests all year round.

Private apartments are the most widely available type of accommodation, especially on the islands. It seems that every house on the Adriatic coast has rooms or apartments facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

I Fireplace

W Wifi

B Outside seating

to let in the summer months. This is a way of life in Croatia, and usually provides one of the main sources of income for families. It used to be common for owners of private rooms to stand on the main highway that runs along the coast or at bus and train stations holding signs saying “Zimmer Frei” (“Vacant Room” in German, since the majority of visitors at that time were German-speaking). Accommodation advertised in this way is usually lower in quality and is often illegal but the owner may be open to a little haggling if the tourist is prepared for a little excitement!

Stone villas are an increasingly popular choice for families who have a little more money to spend, especially in Istria.

When you reserve a villa like this it is important to find out how far you will be from the sea, if that is important to you, because many such properties are located in the hinterland, although they may have swimming pools.

Those who love to be alone and completely unplug from civilisation can also select Robinson Crusoe style accommodation in remote bays or on small islands such as Pašman, Drvenik or Dugi Otok. Accommodation like this may not even have a connection to mains water or electricity, using rainwater and solar power. It is the perfect choice if you want to enjoy unspoilt nature and be right by the sea.

HOSTELS Hostels are meeting places offering individuality, variety, simplicity and a friendly atmosphere, all at a reasonable price. As well as a multitude of campsites, apartments, resorts and hotels, the Croatian coast in recent times has become home to fantastic unique hostels which contribute to making the country a brilliant place to stay.

Hostels in Croatia are inexpensive so it’s only to be expected that the creature comforts are not the same as in other types of accommodation. They are popular with young people who are just passing through and who only need a place to stay for a night or two, although anyone who needs cheaper accommodation can use hostels. Rooms in hostels usually have multiple beds and shared bathrooms, but the level of comfort offered is becoming ever closer to that offered by hotels.

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Where to stay 4 STARS AMADRIA PARK JAKOV QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 59 51, www. amadriapark.com/.P­T­A­L­B­K­C­W hhhh D-RESORT ŠIBENIK QObala Jerka Šižgorića 1, tel. (+385-22) 33 14 52, www. dresortsibenik.com. P­T­H­A­F­L­B­K­C­W hhhh HERITAGE HOTEL LIFE PALACE QE‑3, Trg Šibenskih Palih Boraca 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 05, www.hotel-lifepalace.hr/en/homepage/.

P­TJA­G­B­K­D­W hhhh IVAN QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 39 51, www. amadriapark.com/. Open March 02 - November 27.

P­T­H­A­U­F­L­E­G­B­K­D­C­W hhhh JURE QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 29 51, www. amadriapark.com.

P­T­A­L­G­B­K­D­C­W hhhh KIDS HOTEL ANDRIJA QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 49 51, www. amadriapark.com/. P­T­A­L­G­B­K­C­W hhhh PANORAMA QŠibenski most 1, tel. (+385-22) 21 33 98, www.hotelpanorama.hr. P­­H­A­6­F­L­G­B­K­X­C­W hhhh

3 STARS BEACH HOTEL NIKO QHoteli Solaris 86, tel. (+385-22) 36 19 51, www.solaris. hr/. P­T­A­L­E­G­B­K­C­W hhh

2 STARS JADRAN QE‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 52, tel. (+385-22) 24 20 00, www.rivijera.hr. P­J­H­A­G­B­K­W hh

HOSTEL

SCALA QPut gimnazije 5, tel. (+385) 095 890 44 31.

SPLENDIDO QG‑3, Eugena Kvaternika 11, tel. (+385) 091 150 30 29, www.hostel-splendido.com. P­A­L­G­W

OUT OF TOWN COLENTUM QPut Slanice bb, Murter, tel. (+385-22) 43 11 00, fax (+38522) 43 52 55, www.hotel-colentum.com. P­AL­G­ B­K­X­C­W hhh HOTEL LIFE QRtić 12E, Rogoznica, tel. (+385-22) 55 81 28, fax (+385-22) 55 81 34, www.hotel-life.hr. P­H­A­L­ G­K­D­CW hhhh HOTEL PUNTA QGrgura Ninskog 1, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 45 14 88, fax (+385-22) 45 14 34, www.hotelivodice.hr. P­HARU­ F­L­G­K­D­C­W hhhh HOTEL VILLA RADIN QGrgura Ninskog 10, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 44 04 15, fax (+385-22) 44 02 11, www.hotelvillaradin.com/en/ home. P­H­A­U­L­G­B­K­C­W hhhh HOTEL VRATA KRKE QLozovac 2e, Lozovac, tel. (+385-22) 77 80 92, fax (+38522) 77 80 91, www.vrata-krke.hr. P­HARULG­ B­K­W hhh HOTEL ZORA QRaduča 11, Primošten, tel. (+385-22) 58 11 11, fax (+38522) 57 11 20, www.hotelzora-adriatiq.com. PT­H­A­ R­U­F­L­G­B­K­D­C­W hhh MAESTRAL QRodina 1, Prvić Luka, tel. (+385-22) 44 83 00, fax (+385-22) 44 83 01, www.hotelmaestral.com. PA­ 6­G­B­K­X­W hhh MIHOVIL QAnte Anića 3, Knin, tel. (+385-22) 66 44 44, fax (+385-22) 66 44 42, www.hotelmihovil.com. P­A6LGB­ K­X­W hhh

GLOBO QG‑3, Sarajevska 2, tel. (+385- 22) 24 48 17, www. hostel-globo.com. P­JNG­W

MIRAN QZagrebačka bb, Pirovac, tel. (+385-22) 46 68 03, fax (+385-22) 46 70 22, www.rivijera.hr. P­Z­A­L­G­ B­K­C­W hhh

INDIGO QF‑3, Jurja Barakovića 3, tel. (+385-22) 20 01 59/(+385-) 091 337 37 44, www.hostel-indigo.com. P­JRG­W hh

OLYMPIA QLjudevita Gaja 6, Vodice, tel. (+385-22) 45 24 52, fax (+385-22) 45 24 20, www.olympiavodice.hr. PTHA­ U­F­L­G­B­K­D­CW hhhh

MARE QD‑2, Kralja Zvonimira 40, tel. (+385-22) 21 52 69/ (+385-) 098 180 59 38, www.hostel-mare.com. P­JA­ G­W

SPONGIOLA QObala I 58, Krapanj, tel. (+385-22) 34 89 00, fax (+385-22) 34 89 03, www.spongiola.com. PAR6FBK­ D­CW hhhh

60 Šibenik In Your Pocket

sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

ARRIVING BY BUS

ARRIVING BY PLANE

Šibenik bus station is handily located on the seafront a 5-minute walk east of the Old Town. It is served by 4 or 5 express buses per day from Zagreb, with an average journey time of 4hr 20min.

There is an additional handful of Zagreb-to-Šibenik buses that take a longer route, calling in at Zadar or the Plitivice Lakes on the way. Ticket prices range from 136kn to 151kn one way. Šibenik also lies on the route of many long-distance bus routes linking Rijeka and Zadar in the north to Split and Dubrovnik in the south – so arriving here from elsewhere on the Adriatic coast is relatively easy.

The bus station itself is equipped with plenty of cafes and patisseries (mostly Open until 21:00 or 22:00), two ATMs, a left-luggage office (garderoba; daily 07:00 - 22:00, 4 - 5 kn per item/per hour), ticket office (Open 05:00 - 22:00), information desk (Open 05:00 - 22:00) and a public toilet (07:00 - 22:00).

Nearest airports are Split (45km to the southeast) and Zadar (50km northwest). Local buses run from Split and Zadar airports to the relevant city bus stations, where you can get an onward service to Šibenik. Journey times to Šibenik from Zadar bus station hover around the 1hr 30min mark; from Split expect around 1hr 50min.

ŠIBENIK COACH STATION QG‑2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-) 060 36 83 68.

ARRIVING BY CAR From Zagreb: Šibenik lies just over 300km from the Croatian capital, with much of the distance covered by the swift and highly scenic A1 motorway. With the route crossing the bewitchingly barren Lika plateau before burrowing its way through the dramatic Velebit mountains, you’re in for an exhilarating ride.

Be aware that the A1 is a toll motorway, and the ZagrebŠibenik stretch will set you back about 152kn (car) or 92kn (motorbike) each way.

From elsewhere on the Adriatic coast: Šibenik is on Croatia’s main coastal road, the Magistrala, which runs from Rijeka in the northwest to Dubrovnik in the southeast. It is a stunning journey, which takes you past some of the most beautiful maritime scenery anywhere in Europe.

However it can be full of traffic and time consuming in summer, when it might be worth heading inland and picking up the motorway for a stretch or two. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Getting from Zagreb to Šibenik by train takes about nine hours and involves a long wait at Knin, where you change trains. As of this spring, weekend trains at Knin will be replaced by buses. Although Šibenik is connected to Perković on the Split-Zagreb line, rail travel does not represent a great way of getting around the county. Perković-Zagreb trains do pass through the inland towns of Drniš and Knin, but only twice a day and at inconvenient times - making day trips by rail rather impractical. Šibenik train station is about ten minutes’ walk west of the Old Town. There is a café at the station (Open 06:00 - 23:00.Closed Sun.), ticket office and information desk (Open 06:00 - 22:00), a public toilet, but no left-luggage facilities.

MAIN TRAIN STATION QL‑3, Fra Jeronima Milete 24, tel. (+385-22) 33 36 99, www.hzpp.hr.

AIRPORT Šibenik does not have its own airports but is served by Zadar airport to the northwest and Split airport to the southeast.

SPLIT AIRPORT-KAŠTELA (ZRAČNA LUKA SPLIT-KAŠTELA) QCesta dr. Franje Tuđmana 96, Kaštel Štafilić, tel. (+385-21) 20 35 55, fax (+385-21) 20 34 22, www.splitairport.hr.

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Arrival & Getting Around ZADAR AIRPORT (ZRAČNA LUKA ZADAR) QZemunik Donji, Zadar, tel. (+385-23) 20 58 00, fax (+385-23) 20 58 33, www.zadar-airport.hr.

BIKING Although the infrastructure for cycling is almost non-existent, it is of course possible to rent-a-bike to at least see the city landmarks and monuments, or beach hop from one to another of course. There are a few bike stores around town that charge around 100kn per day and if you choose to rent for a few days in a row, the price is then discounted.

Option two is the ‘Nextbike’ system where you can rent and return a bike at any one of six city locations. The initial amount you pay is 80kn and that amount is used as credit for bicycle rental… FYI, each day users have a 30-minute free ride available and if you surpass those 30 minutes; then there is an additional 8kn hourly charge (www.nextbike.hr).

TOURIST INFORMATION The local tourist association offices listed in this guide can help you out with a whole lot of information about individual towns, resorts, parks and sights. We should mention that the office hours tend to be rather eclectic, so you might want to check on their Web sites or give them a call before trekking over.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 3, tel. (+385-22) 21 44 11/(+385-22) 21 44 48, www.sibenik-tourism.hr.

Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 14:00. June Open 08:00 - 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

September Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 08:00 - 14:00.

ASSOCIATION OF TOURIST GUIDES “MIHOVIL” ŠIBENIK QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 3 (TIC), tel. (+385-) 099 684 10 16, www.vodici-sibenik.hr.

PUBLIC INSTITUTION OF KRKA NATIONAL PARK QE‑3, Trg Ivana Pavla II 5, tel. (+385-22) 20 17 77, www.np-krka.hr. Closed Sat, Sun, May Open 08:00 - 19:00. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00. September Open 08:00 - 19:00. ŠIBENIK TOURIST BOARD QE‑3, Fausta Vrančića 18, tel. (+385-22) 21 20 75, www.sibenik-tourism.hr. Open 07:00 - 15:00.

Closed Sat, Sun. ŠIBENIK KNIN COUNTY TOURIST BOARD QE‑3, Fra Nikole Ružića bb, tel. (+385-22) 21 90 72, www.dalmatiasibenik.hr/. Open 07:30 - 15:30.

Closed Sat, Sun. 62 Šibenik In Your Pocket

BIKE AND HIKE Website with lots of information about exploring Šibenik Knin County on bike. It has routes, maps, cycling events, stops offs, tours, service spots and much more. Qwww. bikeandhike.hr TOURIST PUNKT ŠIBENIK PLUS Rental and delivery of bikes can be arranged by email or phone, and prices depend on the model varying from 100120 kn per day. This is reduced if rented for a longer period of time.QC‑4, Obala palih omladinaca 7, tel. (+385-22) 41 02 59/(+385-) 095 914 24 49, www.sibenikplus.com.

Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Closed Sun.

CAR RENTAL AVAX ABC RENT A CAR QDraga 2, tel. (+385-) 099 616 37 63, www.avaxrent. com.

NOVA QTrg Drage 12, tel. (+385-22) 33 15 55/(+385-) 099 265 90 95, www.novarentacar.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A

FERRIES Šibenik is the perfect place to indulge in a bit of island hopping, with 2-3 daily Šibenik-Vodice ferries (4-5 in summer but watch out for reduced services on Sunday) sailing via the enchanting islands of Zlarin and Prvić. The trip is a scenic wonder, taking you through the Šibenik canal and offering fantastic views of the St. Nicholas sea fort as you pass.

Journey times are short, with the whole Šibenik-Vodice journey taking just over one hour.

Further offshore, the islands of Kaprije and Žirje are linked to the mainland less often and take slightly longer to get to, but still represent an eminently accessible day out from the city. Note that almost all of these services are for passengers and bicycles only - you can’t take a car on board unless travelling on selected Žirje services.

The departure point for these ferries is the jetty pier on the seafront right below the city centre. Tickets should be bought before boarding the boat from the Jadrolinija office diagonally opposite the jetty.

The island of Krapanj, just off the shore opposite the settlement of Brodarica, is reached by hourly passenger boat from the Brodarica waterfront (pay on board).

Elsewhere, the Kornati islands are not linked to the mainland by regular ferry, and are only accessible via the tourist excursions operated by travel agencies or with your own yacht.

JADROLINIJA Boat lines to Kaprije, Prvić, Vodice, Zlarin and Žirje.QF‑4, Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 7, tel. (+385-22) 21 34 68/ (+385 -22) 20 06 24, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, 17:30 - 18:30. Sun Open 08:00 - 11:00, 18:00 19:30. From June Open 08:00 - 20:00. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Arrival & Getting Around

Photo by SED Panorama, Šibenik Tourist Board Archives

PARKING

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

Šibenik has both street parking and pay car parks. Street parking is split into four zones where parking is charged 1 June – 1 September at rates ranging between 3kn/hour and 10 kn/hour depending on the zone. You can also buy day tickets at 67 – 165 kn.

There are car parks in two zones: the one in the Draga district and at the railway station are in Zone A, while the car park in the Poljana district is in Zone B. Prices are 6 – 10kn/ hour.

Beware of parking in dodgy places where your car might get towed away by the city authorities and impounded at the address Velimira Škorpika 5, at a place euphemistically named “Služba za premještanje vozila” – the “Service for relocating vehicles.” How benign! They will kindly return your vehicle to you in return for your payment of the sum of 400 kn plus 50 kn for each day spent in the pound. The pound is open on working days 08:00 – 20:00, Sat 08:00 – 14:00. Closed Sun. If you spot the car catchers in the act of loading your iron steed onto a terrible vehicle known in Croatian as the pauk, or “spider”, you might get away with a fine of just 200kn. More information on tel. 022 218 459, 091 120 08 23 or pauk@gradski-parking.hr.

Šibenik’s municipal bus service is operated by Autotransport Šibenik, with buses operating from around 06:00 to 22:00. Most important routes for visitors are the no. 3 (which runs from the city centre uphill to Šubićevac, passing the 16th-century fortress on the way), the no. 6 (to the Solaris hotel complex), and the no.5 (to Brodarica, jump-off point for the island of Krapanj). Best place to catch these buses is the stop right beside the main market (tržnica), where there is a kiosk (Open 07:00 - 14:00, Sat 07:30 - 13:30.

Closed Sun) selling tickets and a timetable detailing departures (watch out for reduced services on Sundays). Single tickets on most lines cost 10kn, some longer routes 13kn - 15kn.

GRADSKI PARKING QDraga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 22 05, www.gradskiparking.hr. facebook.com/SibenikInYourPocket

AUTOTRANSPORT D.D. QG‑2, Draga 14, tel. (+385-22) 21 64 44, www.atpsi.hr.

TAXI The easiest way to get a cab is to call (+385-22) 21 21 21; otherwise you’ll find them at ranks outside the bus station or on the Poljana square just outside the Old Town. The start-up fare is 40kn which includes the first five kilometers, followed by 10kn per kilometre, 5kn per baggage item. We recommend that you check beforehand if waiting is included in the price for the first 5km.

Summer 2018

63

ZAGREB

Šibenik Basics CUSTOMS There are no custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS

SMOKING

Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Šibenik, as well as an abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants, bars and cafés accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you. If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco-

Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

TOILETS There are two public toilets in Šibenik. One is by the theatre, it’s open all year round 07:00 – 21:00, costs 5kn, and is a bit ancient but decent enough. The other is by St James’ Cathedral, it’s open only during the summer months, again 07:00 – 21:00, price 5kn.

VISAS Croatian Visa Policies is fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin.

In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG

Hotel Borovnik Tisno Archives

64 Šibenik In Your Pocket

Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Šibenik significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in General Hospital in Stjepana Radića 83 (L- 3) where everything necessary will be done.

In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385)195. sibenik.inyourpocket.com

Bunja domaćinova Bunja domaćinova

Crkva sv. Marija St. Mary Church

Zelena šljiva Green plum

Crkva sv. Marija St. Mary Church

Žirje

Muna

8

Pristanište Dock

Zlarin

Maslina Olive tree

Raslina

Crveni koralj Red coral

K ra ira

Marina Mandalina

BALDEKIN

Crkva sv. Križ Holy Cross Church

Škrpina Red scorpionfish

VIDICI

Nacionalni park S. Ra dić Kornati a

Nacionalni

Morska spužva Sponges

Otok Krapanj Krapanj Island

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Maslina Olive tree

Muflon The mouflon

Bedem Fortification wall

Crkva sv. Ivan St. John Church

Crveno grožđe Red grapes

Red grapes

Airport Zadar 50 km Crveno grožđe

ZAGREB

Early Croatian cemetery Kosa

Starohrvatsko groblje Kosa

Jadrtovac

DRNIŠ

SPLIT

Šparadići

Split 50 km

SPLIT Crkva sv. Ana Airport St. Anna Church

Crkva sv. Margarita St. Margaret Church

Crkva sv. Petar St. Peter Church

Jarebica The rock partridge

Ovca Sheep

Crkva uznesenja BDM Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

Vrpolje 58

Crkva sv. Ivan St. John Church

Airport Zadar 50 km

SPLIT

Boraja

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Nacionalni park Kornati

Ovca Sheep

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

Perković

DRNIŠ Danilo

Crkva sv. Danijel St. Daniel Church

Rider Rider

Nacionalni 50 km park Kornati

Zadar

Pršut Prosciutto Airport

ZAGREB

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

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Pršut Prosciutto

Ovčji sir Sheep’s milk cheese

Etnoland Theme park

Tematski park Etnoland

Industrijska zona Podi Entrepreneurial Zone

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Zec Rabbit

Crkva sv. Lovre St. Lawrence Church

Lozovac

Sokolarski centar Falconry Centre

Morinje

Donje polje

Grebaštica

Žaborić

Smokva Figs

Zec Rabbit

Entrance NP Krka

Visovac

Samostan Majke od milosti Mother of Mercy Convent

Crkva Gospa od zdravlja Our Lady of Health Church

33

Bijelo grožđe White grapes

58

Konjički klub Pegasus Riding club Pegasus

Smokva Figs

RAŽINE

Gradsko groblje Kvanj City Cemetery Kvanj tB

56

Entrance NP Krka

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Konjički klub Kolan Riding club Kolan

SPLIT

Airport Split 50 km

SPLIT

DRNIŠ

Marina Skradin

Skradin

Airport Zadar 50 km

ZAGREB

Žižula Ziziphus jujuba

Tvrđava Barone park - Šubićevac Barone Fortress Kornati

ŠUBIĆEVAC

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Tvrđava sv. Ivana St. John Fortress

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SPLIT

DRNIŠ

Muzejska zbirka spužvi Sponge museum collection

Amadria Park

Plaža Rezalište Rezalište Beach

AquaPark

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Jarebica The rock partridge

MANDALINA

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Srdela European pilchard

CRNICA

Tvrđava sv. Mihovila St. Michael Fortress

NJIVICE

Zapadna magistrala

Katedrala sv. Jakova St. James Cathedral

Plaža Banj City Beach

Šetnica Walk path

Marina Solaris

Otok Zlarin Zlarin Island

Gospa od Rašelja Our Lady of Raselj

Crkva Marijinog Uznesenja Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

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Pidoča Mediterranean mussel

Bilice

Vepar Wild boar

Crkva uznesenja BDM Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary Church

Cipalj Flathead mullet

Prukljan

Jakobova kapica Scallop Pectinidae

Cipalj Flathead mullet

Crkva sv. Vida St. Vid Church

Crkva sv. Mihovil St. Michael Church

Zubatac Common dentex

Tvrđava sv. Nikola St. Nicholas Fortress

Muzejska zbirka koralja Coral museum collection

Otok Lupac Lupac Island

Otok Žirje Žirje Island

Jadrija

Kupalište Jadrija Jadrija Beach

Maslina Olive tree

Prižba Prizba

Tržnica

Smokva Figs

Marina Zaton

Crkva sv. Roko St. Rocco Church

Bogdanovići

Otok Zmajan Zmajan Island

Gradina Gradina Fortress

Crkva sv. Petar St. Peter Church

Kaprije

Otok Kaprije Kaprije Island

20 nm

Kakan Island

Zaton

27

Crkva Gospa Srimska Crveno grožđe Our Lady of Srima Church Red grapes

BENKOVAC

Plava

Jedrenje na dasci

Bus station

Trgovački centar Shopping park

ZADAR

Nalazište

Plaža Beach

Bungee skokovi Bungee Jumping

Ronjenje Diving

Benzinska postaja Gas station

Memorijalni centar Faust Vrančić Faust Vrancic Memorial

Otok Kakan

Otok Prvić Prvic Island

Prvić Šepurine Prvić Luka

Crkva sv. Jelena St. Jelena Church

Srima

BENKOVAC

Vodice

ZADAR

Muzej Museum

Kamp Camp

Informacije Information Center

Vezovi Moorings

Crkva Gospa Okitska Our Lady of Okitska Church

Zec Rabbit

Marina Marina

Bolnica Hospital

Vodeni park AquaPark

Market

Šetnice Walk path

Biciklistička staza Cycling track

zastava Blue Flag beach

Wind surfing

Tvrđava Fortress

Hotel Accommodation

Katedrala Cathedral

Archeological site

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WC Toilets

Biskupska pala The Bishop’s Pa

Noćni život Nigh

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Benzinska postaja Gas station

Vidikovac View point St.P.Kaera D-4 Stara cesta C-1 Starog kazališta E/F-2 Strme stube D-3 Stube A. Medulića D-3 Sv. Julijana E-3/4 Sv. Križa A-2 Sv. Luce D-3 Sv. Nikole Tavelića F-3 Sv. Spasa G-1 Šubićev. šetalište E/F-1 Težačka E/F-1 Tijatska C/D-1 Trg Dinka Zavorovića E-3 Trg I. G. Kovačića F-3

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Dolac, Šibenik Tourist Board Archives

TRATTORIA “GASTRO ITALIANO” Authentic Italian and Croatian food.

MEAT FROM CROATIAN FARMS: fillet steak, rump steak, pork fillet and chicken.

FISH: tuna, salmon and swordfish steaks.

LIVE MUSIC EVERY THURSDAY FROM 8 PM

TRIO “DON CARLOS”

Podsolarsko 78 (next to Solaris Hotels Resort) 22 000 Šibenik, Croatia info & reservation: tel. (+385-22) 35 04 94 www.gastro-italiano.hr