Rijeka In Your Pocket No17

Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Rijeka Summer 2017

Local Art Discover Tomo’s Colourful Works

Croatian Inventors Great Minds from a Small Country

N°17 - complimentary copy rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

What’s on

6

Tomo Vukas Interview

16

44

Health Tourism

50

Restore your health

Local artist’s tips

Croatian Inventors

Kvarner Where to venture out for an adventure

Your guide through the best summer events

18

Shopping

56

How they influeneced the world

Delicatessen and souvenirs

Restaurants 21

Where to stay 58

Food for thought

Local Flavour

27

Arrival & Getting Around

29

Rijeka Basics

Flavoursome dishes

Coffe&Cakes Giving you a slice of pie

Nightlife

Accommodation categories in Croatia

31

Are you ready to party?

Sightseeing 33 All those things you mustn’t miss

59

Lost? Help is at hand.

61

Making your stay stress free

Maps City Centre Map City map Trsat Map

62 64 66

You can have both, fun and “medical treatment” while visiting Meline beach on the island of Krk. Photo by Dobrinj Tourist Board Archives

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FOREWORD The city of Rijeka, which is known mostly as a port and industrial city, is slowly getting a facelift and gearing its services towards the everyday lives of the locals as well as its ever-growing visitor numbers. Thus, whilst already having the image as the country’s ‘urban capital’ with a strong alternative rock scene, Rijeka now has those social hot spots by the sea which are commonly associated with the Mediterranean. In addition, it was recently announced the European City of Culture 2020, a prestigious achievement which the city is already working towards.

Our feature on local specialties and dishes should also contribute to your pleasant stay as the food here is something you’ll miss once you’ve gone home. In case you wish to escape the hustle of the city it is hugely advisable to visit the Kvarner islands or find shade in the lush green mountain region of Gorski kotar or the Učka mountain. Either way, nature’s serenity is aplenty!

Speaking of nature, the entire Kvarner region around Rijeka has become somewhat of a health destination due to its location and climate. A trend in holiday makers combining the fun of a vacation whilst also seeking specific medical treatments is rapidly growing. Our feature has a complete run down on state of the art clinics in all medical treatments that are second to none and highly recommended.

We will also introduce you some great Croatian minds and their inventions, which are used worldwide and in hope you’ll enjoy reading our guide, we wish you a super summer stay!

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Publisher Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb ISSN 1845-5514 Company Office & Accounts Višnja Arambašić Rijeka In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28 croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.

Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedelja Editorial Editor Višnja Arambašić Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Nikola Badovinac, Lee Murphy, Jelena Pocedić, Andrea Pisac Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac Assistant Editor Blanka Valić Research & Community Manager Tea Bikić Design Ivana Mihoković Photography Rijeka In Your Pocket team unless otherwise stated Cover Fishermen’s Week in Crikvenica, Crikvenica Tourist Board Archives Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina Štimac, Tea Bikić Copyright notice Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o.

Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

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What’s On

Petrit Ceku, Kastav Cultural summer

Summer Festivals YOUR GUIDE THROUGH THE BEST SUMMER EVENTS

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What’s On EXHIBITIONS 10.06 - 20.08 » DALIBOR STOŠIĆ

With an international reputation and as professor at the Academy of Fine Arts in Zagreb, Stošić presents a small retrospective of his old and new cycle of works in Opatija. His visual interpretation and inspiration was formed by spending ten years in Paris as well as on Mediterranean plants, namely in Dalmatia.QThe Juraj Šporer Art Pavillion, Park sv.Jakova 1, Opatija, www.hrmt.hr.

13.04 - 01.09 » FACES TALK

People come and people go, and some go down in history for their feats on earth. The Museum of Fine Arts presents thirty such people who have done just that, made a positive difference to this lovely harbour city. Selected portraits of exceptional quality will be featured of personalities as well as their life stories which portray moments of history and testify to the rich cultural and artistic life of the city.QD‑1, City Museum of Rijeka, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 10 92, www.muzej-rijeka.hr.

26.05 - 10.11 » ADRIATIC INSPIRATION FROM 1840 - 1940 – THE DUŠKO VEČERINA COLLECTION

When art personifies a man, that man lives and breathes for his devotion. Duško Večerina is exactly that, a collector who has required the works of known German, Austrian and Hungarian artists who have sought inspiration from the Northern Adriatic coastline. The exhibition presents paintings, drawings, pastels, watercolours, oils on canvas and prints from distinguished authors such as Gotffried Seelos, Jakob Alt, Nasta Rojc, William Unger, Robert Scheffer, Jackob Melcher and others.QVilla Angiolina, Park Angiolina 1, Opatija, www.hrmt.hr.

15.07 - 26.06 » GIANTS OF PATAGONIA

Kids, adults, all those who love dinosaurs, prepare to embark on a journey filled with replicas of giant dinosaur skeletons made after authentic fossil specimens discovered at Patagonia, as well as original-sized models of dinosaurs; the skeletons of the greatest carnivore ever to walk the Earth (Giganotosaurus carolinii), the biggest animal claw ever discovered, flying reptiles as well as reptiles inhabiting the seas. Its mega packed with educational corners for the littlies and some exhibits are adjusted to the blind and visually-impaired.QExportdrvo ex-warehouse at Delta, Grobnička riva bb, 40 - 60kn, www.prirodoslovni.com.

13.06 - 09.07 » SLAVKO GRČKO

The Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art honours local graphic artist, drawer, painter and art pedagogue Slavko Grčko (1934 – 2007). It has over 350 of his works in their collection. The local artisan had different cycles in his career with 70s pop art motifs, 80s social reality, the 90s Homeland war, and then the onslaught of technology.

A true cross section of his creations can be seen which are elaborate, thoughtful, meticulous and logical.QC‑2, Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Dolac 1/II, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

20.01 - 01.10 » RED CARPET AWARD: YOUNG EUROPEAN ART

As a part of Vienna week in Opatija, the Juraj Šporer Art Pavilion turns to our Austrian neighbours for the Red Carpet Award; the largest Austrian art award for young artists with the aim of providing media promotion and financial support at the beginning of their careers. Come and support these fine young artists and their works on an international stage.QThe Juraj Šporer Art Pavillion, Park sv.Jakova 1, Opatija, www.hrmt.hr.

04.10 - 30.09 » THE FIRST IN THE WORLD – 150 YEARS OF THE RIJEKA TORPEDO

You are at home to the torpedo, one of the greatest 19th century inventions and fans will be able to see fifty original objects, torpedoes, launching tubes, different types of gyroscopes, direction and speed indicators, equipment for testing torpedoes, instruments, parts of a torpedo, a model of the first Whitehead torpedo, as well as a model of a launching station and numerous screenings. Why? Because Rijeka is the city where the torpedo was invented!

QB‑1, Željezničko skladište, Žabica 4, www.muzejrijeka.hr.

19.05 - 15.07 » LOŠINJ’S HOTELS, GUEST HOUSES AND SPAS

The island of Lošinj is a mecca for travellers and is valued not only for tourism but rehabilitation and medical support. Welcome to a ‘then and now’ exhibit of the island’s tourism industry pre WWI when tourist facilities were open all year long. See 125 years of history pertaining to Lošinj’s tourist facilities, health and wellness, changes in offers, appearances, business mode and clientele itself.QVilla An‑ giolina, Park Angiolina 1, Opatija, www.hrmt.hr.

12.04 - 01.10 » RETURN TO THE MOON

At the beginning of the 70s and after the revolutionary flight to the moon, a traveling exhibition was presented in Rijeka where parts of the Apollo Space Module were exhibited. Forty years later, the Peek & Poke Museum from Rijeka along with other regional museums have organised a program with a series of workshops and guest lectures contemplating futuristic ideas. The aim is to re-examine similarities and differences in the perception and vision of the future today and forty years ago.QD‑1, The Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78, www.ppmhp.hr.

14.07 - 17.08 » GROUP EXHIBITION: IN THEIR EYES

See the portrayal of three central European regions with a synthesis of national minorities, located on the periphery of different linguistic, cultural and geopolitical influences.

The works bring to life historical events, bonds and relations between Istria, South Tyrol, and Sudetenland. Artists include Stefano Cagol, Nemanja Cvijanović, Hannes Egger, Igor Eškinja, Michael Fliri, Miroslav Hašek, Zdena Kolečková, Richard Loskot, Michaela Thelenová and Slaven Tolj.QC‑2, Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Dolac 1/II, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.

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What’s On 17.07 - 06.08 » THE INTERNATIONAL STUDENT POSTER BIENNALE

An exhibition of poster art by students and staff at the Academy of Arts in Novi Sad. Thought provoking and powerful, it takes place every other year alternating with the International Student Photography Bienniale.QD‑1, City Museum of Rijeka, www.muzej-rijeka.hr.

18.08 - 25.08 » FRIENDS OF THE SEA – THE GAMES

Having started in 2009, this photo exhibit highlights a series of 60 large-format photos by prominent Croatian photographers. The squares and shores of 13 Croatian cities display the ambience of this year’s theme ‘games at the sea’ with (diving, sailing, racing, swimming marathons, millennium jumps) and all the adrenaline they raise. Its media culture merged with sports, leisure and ecology along the serene Adriatic Sea.QC/D‑2, The Corso, Korzo, www.prijateljimora.com.

22.08 - 17.09 » RADOVAN KUNIĆ

As an overture to the traditional painting festival ‘Mandrać - Mandracchio 2017’ held in the Volosko harbour, an independent exhibition at the Juraj Šporer Art Pavilion will be held by young Rijeka artist Radovan Kunić, winner of the Croatian Museum of Tourism special prize 2016. His paintings range in scope and medium with people, fire and the sea seen as common themes found in his works!QThe Ju‑ raj Šporer Art Pavillion, Park sv.Jakova 1, Opatija, www. hrmt.hr.

13.09 - 03.10 » THE FOURTH CROATIAN CERAMICS TRIENNALE

Giants of Patagonia, Natural History Museum Archives

A travelling exhibition showing the work of 24 artists which is selected by an international jury.QD‑1, City Mu‑ seum of Rijeka, www.muzej-rijeka.hr.

15.09 - 26.11 » TOMISLAV GOTOVAC - ANTICIPATOR OF A CRISIS - WHERE DO WE GO? DO NOT ASK

Tomislav Gotovac (1937 – 2010) was a non-conformist artist, an anarchist artist, a city nudist, an opponent of institutional rule and a filmmaker. He often used his body to emerge in public zones and push the boundaries between limits of acceptable appearance. Taunting political correctness, he oscillates in character – once shy, now full of cheer. Deemed one of the most exciting authors on the domestic scene, students are now invited to retake his stance in this competition which aims to stimulate experimental ways of expression in the work of young artists who are just entering the scene and to provide technical and presentation support for new productions.QC‑2, Modern and Contemporary Art Museum, Dolac 1/II, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr.

Malik Fest Archives

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What’s On

Thousand Islands Race Archives

Courtyard Rhythm Programme at Pelini, part of the Kastav Cultural Summer

FILM

15.09 - 17.09 » HARTERA FESTIVAL

STIFF is Croatia’s first International Film Festival dedicated entirely to student films with the purpose of strengthening the local film industry, giving an insight into the work of other filmmakers and establishing international projects in the field of media production. The best student film productions from all around the world will be presented.

Qwww.stiff.uniri.hr.

KASTAV CULTURAL SUMMER

19.09 - 22.10 » STUDENT INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL (STIFF)

SPORT 14.09 - 24.09 » THOUSAND ISLANDS RACE 2017

Sailing addicts mustn’t miss the chance to sail along the entire Adriatic this summer. In an official race, the regatta passes more than a thousand islands over two stages. The race starts in Rijeka and finishes in Porto Montenegro in Stage 1, and then the fleet navigates back to Rijeka along the same course to complete Stage 2. Technical challenges, winds, waves, and many other variables will test even the very best sailors.Qwww.scor.hr.

FESTIVALS 02.09 - 02.12 » FESTIVAL KVARNER

Extraordinary concerts in unordinary yet memorable venues. This EU funded event combines talented young European musicians with renowned singers and orchestras.

See a remake of Haydn’s Armida and Orlando Paladino, to a fusion of musical genres where Klezmer meets Balkan rythmns, and Irish Folk meets Tango. Where else but in Opatija!Qwww.festivalkvarner.com.

06.09 - 10.09 » THE CHAMBER MUSIC FESTIVAL

A culmination of classical music concerts by prominent names from Croatia and abroad has been held since 2004 and is growing annually. Nature by day, music by night, the natural locality has visitors going on walking tours and then when the sun falls, they enter the music hall which is an intimate setting for both performer and audience.

Ravna GoraQwww.tz-ravnagora.hr. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

An old torn down paper factory has become home to one of the top 10 best small European Music Festivals. Stay tuned for line up details as amazing performers from all over the world have helped create an amazing ambience and reputation that continues to grow.QF‑1, The Paper Mill, Ružićeva bb, www.hartera.com.

30.06 - 25.08 » KASTAV CULTURAL SUMMER

From its beginnings in the 90’s when it consisted mostly of local theatre plays, one of the oldest summer festivals of the Kvarner area has grown and expanded into other fields and now includes musicals, cinema, theatre, exhibitions and literary events, whilst also closely linked to other local and European festivals. Culture at its finest!Qwww.kkl.hr.

05.07 » KLAPA KASTAV, CROATIAN RADIO AND TELEVISION’S TAMBURA ORCHESTRA AND DAMIR KEDŽO

One of the nation’s top a cappella groups Klapa Kastav perform in promotion of their new album but more so as this concert marks their 25th anniversary of successful and continuous work. The ensemble will be supported on stage by tip top tambura musicians and one of Croatia’s brightest pop singers who is topping the charts at present, Damir Kedžo.

08.07 » JONATHAN

When five young gents teamed up in Rijeka to pursue musical prowess, they formed Jonathan back in 2011. Not wanting to limit their music to one genre, their songs point to the past with alternative and punk rock major influences. In February this year, they released their new album ‘To Love’ which will be heard on the night.

14.07 » THE FRAJLE

Four fine females with genuine vocals who have captured the music scene since 2009. Novi Sad’s quintet arrives to Crekvine to perform their own renditions of music hits from other artists. One can expect anything from Russianroman music to local hits to worldwide English chart toppers. Impressive costumes add to their on stage performance.

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What’s On

Muriel Anderson, Guitar Festival, Kastav Cultural Summer

20.07 » GUITAR FESTIVAL

In order to mark the anniversary of the Guitar Festival, the air guitar competition invites all interested to leap on stage and perform a popular rock diving session relieving some wild tunes with invisible wires in their hands. Angus Young, Yngwie Malmsteen, Joe Satriani, Brian May and 100s of other top guitar solo masters come to life.

26.07 » SAŠA AVSENIK ENSEMBLE

Over 60 years have passed since the Avsenik brothers founded Slovenia’s biggest music phenomenon in what was deemed a genre in itself, the so called Oberkrainer music, or better put as ‘national folk pop music’. They toured the world recording over 800 songs and now comes the 3rd family generation with Saša Avsenik taking over the reins and mastering the accordion with his very own ensemble.

29.07 » NATALI DIZDAR & JAZZ TRIO

Considered as Croatia’s princess of jazz, Dizdar is set to perform a wide selection of her hits as well as hits from some of her major influences since establishing her career.

The programme will be featured with the music jazz trio made up of Zvjezdan Ružić on piano, Andriano Bernobić on drums and Luka Veselinović on the double bass.

11.08 21:00 » ATOMIC JAZZISTRA PROJECT FEATURING ERVIN BAUČIĆ

This orchestra has 17 members and focuses on the musical legacy of Istria and the various musical phenomena of 10 Rijeka In Your Pocket

the Istrian landscape. For those old enough, vocalist Ervin Baučič joins the project and will perform songs from the great Croatian progressive band Atomic Shelter with his very own arrangements.

17.08 » ZVONKO TURAK This musical event is produced in honour of Mr. Turak, a man who has tirelessly worked for the promotion and identity of his city Kastav. For fifty years this poet and promoter of culture has been flying the Kastav flag and his work has been recognised.

18.08 » MERIMA KLJUČO AND MIROSLAV TADIĆ

What a dynamic duo! Merima Ključo on the accordion and Miroslav Tadić on guitar, and after years of friendship and mutual musical affinity, they represent Aritmi - a new project featuring their compositions, arrangements and improvisations. Using a wide range of music material, from Bach, Couperin and Satie to Balkan ethno music, the masterful duo join to gather experiences for creating touchable and unique musical scapes.

22.08 » BOW VS PLECTRUM

The newest music sensation on the Croatian scene is Philip Novosel (tambura) and Tihomir Hojsak (double bass).

These lads produce a combo of ethno music mixed with contemporary jazz and Croatian folk music. They improvise, they surprise, and they combine to produce some virtuoso harmonies and sounds. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

What’s On SPECIAL/MISCELLANEOUS EVENTS 17.06 - 29.07 » THE MARGARET’S SUMMER

A long lasting event where visitors are really given an education on the Bakar’s history through age old crafts, traditional food, costumed town folk, original souvenirs and more. The highlight by far is in July where firing canons light up the starry night in an all out reconstruction of a key historical battle dating back to 1616 when the Venetians attacked the town.QBakar, www.tz-bakar.hr.

29.06 - 02.07 » RETROPATIJA

Welcome to a unique blend of 1940s, 50s and 60s music, fashion, film, art, dance and design with pin ups, jive, lindy hop, a vintage market, old-timers, vespas, and a whole lot more. Step back in time to a golden era with plenty of ‘shake, rattle and roll’.QVarious locations across Opatija, www.visitopatija.com.

30.06 - 21.07 » RIJEKA SUMMER NIGHTS

Performances, philharmonics, film, opera, theatre, and concerts from jazz to world music ensure that there is something to tickle everyone’s taste buds. Escape the heat and chill amidst a variety of events where artistic creation is the formula for relaxation.QVarious locations across city, 30- 140kn, www.hnk-zajc.hr/rljn.

01.07 - 02.09 » SUMMER ON GRADINA

Nothing beats a few drinks on a hot summer night then at the Trsat Fortress during ‘Ljeto na Gradini’. With this year’s program, visitors will be able to enjoy the existing conceptual program placed around different parts of the fortress, as well as drama plays, music events, workshops and presentations. This is the 12th edition and the action kicks off on July 8th with the event of lighting 3000 candles and lasts until September 1st. Just being up on Trsat is a breath taking experience!QS-1, Trsat, www.trsatskagradina. com.

01.07 - 02.07 » MIK - MELODIES OF ISTRIA AND KVARNER

MIK is a traditional music festival that stands for ‘Melodies of Istria and Kvarner’. Every year, the festival ranges from canzone to the ethno music of the region. The final evening will be held on Rijeka’s Korzo, the main walking boulevard of the city. This is the 53rd year of the festival where music isn’t commercialised, but humble and pure.

QC/D‑2, Korzo, www.festivalmik.com/en.

RIJEKA, EUROPEAN CAPITAL OF CULTURE 2020 It has been announced that in 2020 Rijeka will share the honour with Galway, Ireland of being a European Capital of Culture. The Capitals of Culture programme is designed to promote European culture, highlighting the richness and diversity of cultures in the European Uniton, promoting understanding between nations and bringing social, cultural and economic benefits to the host cities.

Rijeka’s tenure as a Capital of Culture should be a particularly interesting one given the diversity and richness of the city’s heritage. Programmes that are already planned focus on cultural revival of local neighbourhoods, content for children and young people, artistic exploration of the issues of politics and power, exploration of the coastline, industrialisation and labour, the kitchen as a platform for cultural exchange and urban regeneration where freshwater meets salt.

It’s a way to go until 2020 when we will be able to enjoy all this content, but in the meantime the people of Rijeka will be busy preparing and everyone, the city’s residents, visitors and the urban landscape itself will all benefit. Find out more at www.rijeka2020.eu/en.

01.07 - 31.08 » OPATIJA OLD-TIMER TOUR

Take a city bus, take a taxi, drive yourself, or why not be driven in a classic old-timer and see Opatija and its surroundings in what is a rare experience. Drives last for approximately 25 minutes and are set in the evenings, free of charge. Vroom vroom and its fun for the entire family!QOpatija, www.visitopatija.com. Every Tuesday.

07.07 - 08.07 » (SR)ETNO SELCE - ETHNO FESTIVAL

The charming townsfolk of Selce never forget their roots and are proud to present their cultural heritage through authentic products and dishes, national dances and old costumes, traditional crafts such as straw milling, singing coastal songs and more. The irresistible ambience, the energy, the past!QSelce, www.rivieracrikvenica.com.

Janoska Ensemble, Opatija Summer Stage

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What’s On 14.07 - 15.07 » DARK O METAL FESTIVAL IV

For the fourth year running, metal-heads will be banging down the doors at the ‘Hartera’ venue with an action packed programme. 13 bands will perform with headliners ‘Meleches’, ‘Ultra Violence’ and ‘Cold Snap’. Keeping the metal flame burning!QF‑1, The Paper Mill, Ružićeva bb, www.hartera.com.

15.07 » OPATIJA – THE IMPERIAL TOWN

History and entertainment interwoven! Opatija’s streets, corners, gardens, villas, its promenade and beaches transform into one immense stage where re-enactments of famous people who would visit here are revived, with secrets unravelled. See the Lumière brothers, Isadora Duncan, the Empress Sissi and others back in their day, alive and in action.QVarious locations across Opatija, www. visitopatija.com.

16.07 - 19.08 » OSOR MUSICAL EVENINGS

Following in the footsteps of its predecessor festival that was founded in 1976, this musical and theatre festival is the significant event held on the island of Mali Lošinj. The aim is to present Croatian music inspired by either heritage or new music pieces which were composed exclusively for the Osor Musical Evenings. This year’s event marks 80 years since the birth of the famous Croatian composer Željko Brkanović, and 30 years since the death of Ivan Brkanović, his father and a composer as well.QOsor, Cres Island, www.hr.osorfestival.eu.

20.07 » SAMBA FESTIVAL

As the name itself suggests, Rajska plaža in Lopar is truly a heavenly beach that bears a striking resemblance to the famous Copacabana Beach in Brazil, so it’s only natural that a lively Brazilian dance – the Samba – is the main feature of this exciting festival which attracts international Samba teams and thousands of visitors each year. Parties last till the morning sun!QLopar, Rab, www.rab-visit.com.

21.07 - 22.07 » CRIKVART

Summer sizzles with the city’s streets, squares, parks and waterfronts turning into stages as acrobats, jugglers, musicians and circus performers fascinate passersby. And they will most certainly put a smile on your face!QCrikvenica, www.rivieracrikvenica.com.

21.07 » KOSTRENA NIGHT

Kostrena sparkles under the sky in July as it becomes the place of entertainment, culture and local culinary delights.

In this most important summer event local artists exhibit and sell their artworks and souvenirs whilst restaurants present their traditional rich dishes.QKostrena, www. tzo-kostrena.hr.

08.08 - 10.08 » THE 493RD LOVREČEVA – KRK FAIR

Can you believe that this fair began way back in 1524 in celebration of the Feast of Saint Lawrence, patron to the island of Krk. Once a Roman province, the Kamplin Square will serve as the main stage as it unfolds age old traditions; hear and see tales of the Frankopan noble family and pirate voyages, Roman legionnaire re-enactments, Glagolitic chants, medieval dances, jousting and more.QKrk, Krk Island, www.tz-krk.hr.

25.08 » ADRIATICA FOLK FEST

Here you can find art, creativity and joy all in the one place. Performers of all sorts will present various traditions from their native towns in what is expected to be a night of fun and entertainment. Vocal and dance ensembles, choirs, soloists, musicians and players of other traditional instruments will perform.QCrikvenica, www. rivieracrikvenica.com.

03.09 » THE 11TH UČKA’S FAIR

L​ ooking for some lush fresh air, then head up to the Učka Mountain range and in particular the protected area of the Učka Nature Park for a fair topped with culture, gastronomy and ethnological heritage. See the local meals, products, crafts, music, and costumes that have survived over time and don’t forget your camera with exceptional panoramic views from up top.QUčka Nature Park, www. pp-ucka.hr.

Natali Dizdar, Kastav Cultural Summer

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What’s On

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What’s On

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

FOODIES GUIDE 30.06 - 02.07 » ŽLAHTINA FESTIVAL - OPEN CELLERS / RAZGON

Three days, two themes, and one aim – to gather and celebrate! Day one draws is dedicated to the Pavlomir winery in Novi Vinodolski, the family open their cellar doors for all to come and try their wine assortments. Day two is the Open Wine Cellars Day with Vrbnik vintners presenting the žlahtina wine sort, a white dry wine made from the indigenous variety žlahtina bijela, a wine unique to the island. Day three is entitled Razgon, which is the name given to the last day of the milking of sheep and their release to free grazing. One can step back in time with featured old crafts, folklore dancing and local authentic products.

QVrbnik, Krk Island, www.vrbnik.hr.

08.07 » THE BLUEBERRY DAY

One day, one berry, blueberry! Get the know how of this fruit through educational workshops and in the afternoon, all visitors will be able to taste a giant blueberry strudel made especially for the occasion as well as other traditional dishes and desserts. A local fair and brass orchestra band will perform.QRavna Gora, www.tz-ravnagora.hr.

09.07 - 16.07 » ŠURLICE DAYS

Feeling peckish! For one entire week restaurants of the Vrbnik are offering special dishes made with šurlice pasta and prepared in various ways. On the two Sunday evenings, a small fair of local products as well as a musical programme will accompany the event.QVrbnik, Krk Island, www.vrbnik.hr.

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05.08 » DAGNJADA

Relaxing by the sea, the intoxicating smell of mussels and coastal songs in the background – that is the shortest description that explains Dagnjada. Happy Race Teams will cook fresh mussels, carefully choosing their spices so that the taste of the Mediterranean is more intense. Games, entertainment, singing and dance will last until the early morning hours.QJadranovo, www. rivieracrikvenica.com.

16.08 » FOLK FESTIVAL ROKOVA

On the feast day of Saint Rocco, if you happen to be in or close to Lovran, there is Holy Mass in the Church of St. Rocco. Later, enjoy the competition of housewives of Lovranšćina in preparing traditional beet with beans or visit the ethno exhibition of the ‘Ognjišće’ Association.

Lots of food and music to help the party go all night long will be prepped!QLiganj, www.tz-lovran.hr.

25.08 - 26.08 » DAYS OF WINE

‘May your wine glass never be empty’ and that is bound to happen on the island of Krk where wine is set to shine.

This tasting and sales exhibition of wines includes courses, guided tasting, a wine and winery exhibition, wine production and equipment, as well as other autochthonous products to try and buy. Set up at several locations across Vrbnik, one of the islands best exports is up for show.

QVrbnik, Krk Island, www.vrbnik.hr.

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What’s On 01.09 » A WEEK OF FIGS AND SQUID

Scientific studies have proven that traditional Mediterranean diets are of super-duper value. So the city of Rijeka will for two weeks in September promote such foods authentic to the area at this time of year. Grandma’s recipes will be revived across various restaurants in town and at very affordable prices.Qwww.rigastro.visitrijeka.hr.

23.09 » MASHROOM AND AUTUMN FRUITS FESTIVAL - STARA SUŠICA 2017

The Ravna Forest blossoms with mushrooms and visitors interested in mushroom picking are free to attend. Day includes a mushroom exhibition and a mushroom goulash cooking comp, an omelette made of 1000 eggs and mushrooms served. Eat up!Qwww.tz-ravnagora.hr.

OCTOBER » THE 44TH MARUNADA

Chestnuts, maruni, are the real stars of this October celebration since they are featured in every meal and event this time of year. All cafes, patisseries, taverns and restaurants prepare domestic dishes, cakes and sweets made with maruni (turkey breast stuffed with chestnuts, rump-steak in chestnut sauce, chestnut ice-cream, frappe, and sorbet just to name a few). Things turn really nutty with a series of events including a bocce tournament, a bicycle race, the hiking race Učka Vertical, an old timers car show and a fishing competition.QLiganj, Dobreć and Lovran.

01.12 - 03.12 » CHOCOLATE FESTIVAL

A December sweetener with the best Croatian and international chocolate brands, and small specialised manufacturers presenting original chocolate products! Workshops, lectures, tastings, concerts and exhibitions dedicated to chocolate take place in Opatija’s hotels and restaurants, art galleries, exhibition pavilions, and museums and schools.

A special addition is the ‘Opatija Paradox’ where various chocolate flavours are combined under expert guidance with quality wines from the region.QOpatija, www. visitopatija.com.

Dance Ensamble Nuevo Amanecer Ángel Martínez, Opatija Summer Stage

OPATIJA SUMMER STAGE 01.06 - 25.08 » OPATIJA SUMMER STAGE

Opatija’s Summer Stage has a long tradition of hosting attractive and quality concerts of various genres, from classical music through musicals and operas, to contemporary hip musical genres. Two open air stages located in the beautiful Angiolina Park and newly opened Gervais Centre will draw crowds for concerts by hit performers local and international alike.Qwww. festivalopatija.hr.

07.07 - 09.07 » THE 16TH LIBURNIA JAZZ FESTIVAL

The city of Opatija and its surroundings echo the sounds of jazz each July and as you stroll around the town and turn a corner you may see some trio performing on the pavement, up on a terrace or along the promenade. With Richard Bona and Mandekan Cubano, Cubismo and Elvis Stanić Group concerts and many more performers, you have every reason to jazz it up!Qwww.liburniajazz.hr.

20.07 » 60 YEARS OF OPATIJA’S SUMMER STAGE: GIUSEPPE VERDI – AIDA

Verdi’s magnificent opera about love, inner conflict, doubt and patriotism will be a grand spectacle for the 60th celebration of this festival. With enchanting arias, absorbing characters and a dramatic plot, the famous work will be composed by Tibor Boganyi and the outstanding HNK Ivan pl. Zajca Orchestra in support.

Couple Kristina and Robert Kolar will lead with Italian tenor Renzo Zulian as Radames.

21.08 - 25.08 » THE 15TH LIBURNIA FILM FESTIVAL

Marunada, Lovran Tourist Board Archives

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One festival that uncovers a huge slate of Croatian documentaries made over the last year or so. Over 2500 visitors flocked to open-air stage in Ičići port near Opatija last year, to get a firsthand view. Workshops, lectures and concerts add to the event with voting awards handed out by the jury and audience alike! All films are with English subtitles and it’s a free entry for all screenings.Qwww.liburniafilmfestival.com.

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Tomo Vukas Interview

Tomo Vukas is an artist who lives in Rijeka and shares his inner worlds, inspired by his surroundings, with us through painting, drawing, woodwork, sculpture and more.

RIYP:You create and express yourself using several tech‑ niques. Do you have a favourite one and which one did you use first?

Tomo: I started painting while I was working as a sailor. On board the ship I had time to myself so I started drawing more seriously and developing my drawing skills.

Over the next few years exhibitions followed in Monte Carlo, Arles, Lyon and more… The pencil is still one of my favourite media, tools and means of expression, and even though it takes a lot of time and effort drawing is still rated rather low on the artistic scale.

RIYP:The motifs in your work are most often the sea and marine themes, has that always been the case? And how did that come to be?

Tomo: Marine motifs, or to be more precise sailors, are my most recent creative phase which has lasted for some time now. I feel very comfortable with this, even safe. I set myself some rules and a framework, and that makes me very happy.

In my pictures about the sea and sailors everything which is important in art is condensed: drawing – understanding what you are seeing; colours – creating a sense of relaxation, lightness and cheer; technique – or handwriting, of me as the artist. All of that creates a short story which ob16 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Tomo Vukas Interview servers can recognize easily but interpret in their own way.

I call my sailors the Bringers of Happiness because they arouse good feelings and tease out a smile on your face.

The sailor is the personification of the world around me and within me, it is my past woven with the everyday and coloured with the scent of the sea.

RIYP: Do you have a favourite exhibition space in Rijeka where your works fit most comfortably?

Tomo: I have a place in Opatija near Rijeka where my pictures feel great because they sit among works by other local painters and artists. The place of inspiration is in my head. It really isn’t a problem for me to think up an idea and create a picture, it is just a matter of time and the ideas keep flowing. When I create something with my hands, I paint, I work with wood, sculpture, reliefs, pieces of furniture, various practical implements, jewellery or whatever, then the creativity flourishes. It is a way of life, it is coloured air which I breathe in in great lungfuls.

RIYP: Is there a place in Rijeka which particularly inspires you, where you go to gather and renew your energy?

Tomo: Rijeka is my home town, I know its every stone, and since I enjoy spearfishing I also know the entire coast around Rijeka. Could anyone need more for inspiration?

RIYP: And where do you go outside the city when you need a break?

Tomo: One of my favourite places where I feel at home is definitely Rovinj, a town on the Istrian coast where, together with my wife and dog I spend as much time as possible.

RIYP: What would you say a tourist must try or take home as a souvenir?

Tomo: The thing we really stand out for is our food, but it must be the authentic stuff, home cooking like our grandmothers and mothers make.

What to take with you? First of all the great feeling of time well spent in Croatia. Our country is full of history but we still do not respect that enough and present it very poorly, while we know that only a well-told story sells a product.

My recommendation for tourists: explore, in Croatia there are great artists who make super souvenirs and which are not imported from China…

RIYP: Is it possible to buy your work somewhere in Ri‑ jeka? If so, where and how?

Tomo: Even though you can see my works in public spaces I am also active in the virtual world. I have a web site (www. tomovukasart.com), I keep up with what’s new and keep in touch with people on social networks. I think however that personal contact is the best way to promote and sell…

In my works I tell stories and anyone with an imagination opens the doors to my worlds. Painting is just one small part of what I create and what makes me who I am.

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Croatian Inventors

Concept One, Rimac Automobili Archives

Croatian Inventors GREAT MINDS FROM A SMALL COUNTRY

18 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Croatian Inventors

By Andrea Pisac If there was an index to calculate a country’s inventiveness gene, Croatia would rank extremely high. This small country of no more than 4.5 million people has advanced the world in all major spheres of life. Croatian inventors have dreamed up ingenious abstract concepts and have also created hands-on solutions that we use in everyday life.

Starting from Nikola Tesla who literally “lit up the world” with his alternating electric current to Slavoljub Penkala whose pen allows us to sign our name – physically on paper and metaphorically as a legacy.

Many of Croatia’s greatest minds lived a quiet life, as most geniuses do. And as history keeps re-evaluating our biggest civilizational feats, Croatian inventions too are being rescued from oblivion. Like for example the ideas spawned by the physicist Ruđer Bošković, which predate Einstein’s theory of relativity by 200 years.

What better way to connect to your travel destination than to realize how its inventors influenced the world at large, and your own day-to-day life. So here is a list of Croatia’s major innovators.

Faust Vrančić (1551 - 1617) People had always been fascinated with flying, but it was not until the Renaissance that they had the first taste of it.

Many think that Leonardo da Vinci invented the parachute.

But the revolutionary ‘Homo Volans’ (the flying man) concept was actually thought through by Šibenik-born Faust Vrančić.

In his masterwork Machinae Novae/New Devices (Venice 1615), this genius polymath depicted 56 different machines, devices, and technical concepts. Many were bridges, mills and turbines. Next time you admire San Francisco’s famous Golden Gate Bridge, remember that the suspension bridge was Vrančić’s brainchild.

The parachute he conceived of was the first ever tested.

It was Vrančić himself who at the age of 65 jumped from St Mark’s Campanile in Venice and confirmed his invention worked. He survived, setting humankind on course to finally conquer the sky.

Marin Getaldić (1568-1626) Maybe you don’t need glasses, or don’t need them yet.

But when you pick them up in your seasoned years, think of the mathematician and physicist Marin Getaldić. This Dubrovnik-born colleague of Galileo Galilei set the stage for modern day optics. A pioneer in building conic lenses, he would retire into the so called Bete’s cave outside the Dubrovnik city walls and conduct his experiments with mirrors.

The parabolic mirror he built still survives and is kept at the National Maritime Museum in London. Again, a parabolic mirror may not sound like much. But next time you tune into your favourite TV show on a satellite channel, remember, a satellite dish is just one if its many applications.

Ruđer Bošković (1711-1787) The hardest inventions to understand and appreciate are the abstract ones. They may not have practical devices to facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

show but they forever change the way we see the world.

This is why you should remember Ruđer Bošković, Dubrovnik-born mathematician, astronomer, and philosopher – the father of modern physics.

His famous work Theoria Philosophiae Naturalis/Theory of Natural Philosophy (Vienna, 1758) contains supermodern theories that were proven and embraced only two centuries later. Like for example that matter consists of tiny particles, today known as quarks, and a lot of empty space.

The true meaning of this revolutionary discovery may be lost to a layperson. So think of Albert Einstein’s theory of relativity – the biggest discovery of the 20th century – and remember that it wouldn’t have been possible without Bošković’s ideas.

But this genius scientist also used his mind for practical solutions, like repairing the dome of St. Peter’s in Rome and setting up the famous Brera Observatory in Milan.

Ivan Lupis (1813-1875) Weapons may not be the greatest of our achievements, but when Ivan Lupis invented the torpedo, more technological breakthroughs followed. The initial idea of this Croatian navy officer was to guard the coast with small boats laden with explosives.

The concept of fighting off the enemy with a much smaller and self-propelled vessel was so revolutionary it quickly caught the attention of the English engineer Robert Whitehead. Under his direction, the first torpedo was manufactured in Rijeka in 1868. Over the years the fish-like underwater weapon was improved through other discoveries, such as contra-rotating propellers and the use of a gyroscope for direction setting. It was one of the most important military resources in both World Wars.

Ivan Vučetić (1858 - 1925) Today’s world is fascinated with forensics and CSI TV shows.

On the one hand, this advanced investigative technology makes us safer because hardly anyone can get away with committing a crime. On the other, the data kept on each of us may be infringing on our privacy. Like fingerprinting for an ID for example.

Whether you are for or against it, have you ever wondered who invented it? It was the Hvar-born Ivan Vučetić who later emigrated to Argentina and became the director of the Center for Dactyloscopy in Buenos Aires. In 1892 Vučetić made the first positive identification of a criminal based on a bloody fingerprint. His exceptional method of fingerprinting classification became the golden standard in CSIs around the world.

Nikola Tesla (1856-1943) There are still people who don’t know of Tesla, but there is hardly anyone whose life is not impacted by his ingenious inventions. Let’s start with electricity, this basic facility that we won’t or can’t live without. Tesla’s alternating electric current (AC), invented at the same time as Edison’s direct current (DC), proved a safer and more cost-effective mode of power generation and distribution. Tesla is what happens every day when you turn your lights switch on!

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Croatian Inventors The old-fashioned way, with a pen to paper. This was made possible by the great inventor Slavoljub Penkala who first patented the mechanical pen in 1906. Only a year later, Penkala also created the fountain pen.

These writing accessories became so popular that Penkala teamed up with Edmund Moster to set up the PenkalaMoster pen-and-pencil factory. TOZ Penkala (the factory’s current name) is still alive and kicking in Zagreb – an establishment with a cult status.

If writing is our civilizational achievement, then Penkala undoubtedly provided one of the most crucial means by which we leave our mark and our signature in the world.

Tesla sitting in front of a spiral coil used in his wireless power experiments at his East Houston St. laboratory, originally published in “Tesla’s Important Advances” in Electrical Review, May 20, 1896, p. 263. Credited in caption to Tonnelé and Co.

His next grand discovery was the radio, though it was initially credited to Marconi – the patent was eventually given back to Tesla in 1943. From there Tesla invented the system of remote control. Yes, the same one you use when you flip through TV channels.

His most impressive yet controversial discovery is the Tesla Coil – the concept that the Earth itself is a magnet which generates electricity through frequencies. All that is needed for free power for everyone is a transmitter. See the controversy here?

But, back to practical, everyday solutions. Think of house appliances, machine tools, disk drives... they are all powered by the electric motor invented by Tesla. Next time when you take a cold drink from your fridge, think Tesla. Styling your hair with a hairdryer? Think Tesla. This man changed the planet as probably no one before or after him.

And yes, the Tesla electric car is named after Nikola Tesla!

David Schwarz (1850-1897) When it comes to conquering the sky, Croats indebted the world with yet another design – the Zeppelin. David Schwarz, a Croatian aviation pioneer created the first of its kind, an airship completely made of metal. The Zeppelin plane may not be in use any more, but its discovery was an important step in designing airships which could be controlled by engine-driven propellers.

Schwarz worked on the prototype that was to be test flown in Berlin in 1897, but he died a few months before it happened. The legend says that Count Ferdinand Graf von Zeppelin bought Schwarz’s patent from his widow, the reason why the airship is named after him.

Slavoljub Penkala (1871-1922) Even if you’re not a professional writer, try counting the number of times you put your signature on a document.

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Zlata Bartl (1920-2008) A magical cooking spice Vegeta is the magnus opus of Zlata Bartl. You may be thinking ‘how typical for a woman to invent something relating to the kitchen’. But Zlata Bartl was a chemist and a scientist working in Croatia’s foremost food company Podravka.

In 1959 she concocted Vegeta from salt, spices, dried vegetables and flavour enhancers. The condiment soon shot to popularity and was selling worldwide. No foreign attempt to reproduce the product, and there were many, was successful, so Vegeta continues to be one of Croatia’s most widely recognized brands. Next time you are cooking, try the Croatian trick – finish with adding one spoonful of Vegeta.

Tomislav Uzelac Do you remember how the iPod came to be? There is a moving scene in the film Steve Jobs where he devised the portable music library to get closer to his estranged daughter. But having your favourite music tucked inside your pocket predates Jobs’ ingenuity.

The first successful MP3 player was invented by the Croatian programmer Tomislav Uzelac. He built on research about music file compression carried out in Germany and came up with his own product in 1997 – AMP. This first MP3 player was picked up in the USA and adapted to work on Windows. Then we got Winamp, and we are sure most of you have had it installed on your computers.

The newest inventions There is a new generation of savvy Croatian programmers who continue to impress with their state-of-the-art devices. You will come across at least two of them while you travel in Croatia. Here, you can pay for parking by text message and charge your mobile device on a solar-powered smart bench. The Steora bench, invented by Ivan Mrvoš, has already stormed the world, and Zagreb alone has 20 of them installed across the city.

When it comes to new sources of energy, you only need to go 20 km outside Zagreb to the bucolic village of Sveta Nedelja to find the world’s fastest electric car. This is where Mate Rimac makes his famous Concept One – the biggest competitor to the electric models made by Ferrari, Lamborghini and Porsche. When you are in Zagreb, don’t miss a chance to visit the Rimac factory. Go on a 60 minute tour and meet the world’s most talked about car in person. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants CROATIAN KONOBA MUNICIPIUM Housed in a historic building (see “What to see”), Municipium is regarded as Rijeka’s finest and most luxurious restaurant. With traditional Croatian meat and fish dishes, the food is light and sublime.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 30 00/(+385-) 091 983 13 14, www. restaurantmunicipium.com/. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (70 150kn). P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W KONOBA NEBULOZA Although it calls itself a konoba (a kind of traditional inn), Nebuloza is in fact a smart and atmospheric restaurant with a winning combination of modern décor and rustic interior touches. The food focuses on regional favourites, with plenty of fresh fish and seafood alongside Istrian-style sausages and pork chops. Filling bowls of šurlice (local pasta) drenched in either goulasch or žgvacet (spicy lamb stew) make for the perfect mid-price lunch.QF‑1, Titov trg 2b, tel. (+385-51) 37 45 01, www.konobanebuloza. com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (55 - 150kn). P­T­J­A­G­W NONO FRANE Located in Viškovo, a fair-sized village just outside Rijeka to the northwest, this family restaurant has a chirpy spirit and wonderful staff to match. The menu here is prepared the old-fashioned original way, from meat dishes to homemade cakes. Mmm…very tasty! Grilled foods here are particularly appetising. They are also more than happy to organise wedding parties.QViškovo 47, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 56 12 19, www.nonofrane.hr. Open 10:00 24:00. (50 - 90kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­S­W PLACA 51 When you have a dream, and that dream comes true: that’s Placa 51. Social media is raving about one of Rijeka’s newest additions, opened right by the harbour. Placa 51 with its Istrian/Mediterranean style of cuisine, great wines, and devouring desserts. The restaurant’s spectacular new interior is ideal for all meals, with brunch to dinner being available. If you can only try but one item, it must be the ribs, while the fudge ice-cream with white chocolate and lime sauce is reason enough to visit the city.QD‑3, Riva Boduli 3a, tel. (+385-51) 54 64 54, www.placa51.com.

Open 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (40 - 90kn). P­T­J­ A­6­U­G­B­X­S­W RONJGI In the hills above Rijeka, great for comfort food, especially game. Meats are delicious, portions enormous and the soup in a bowl made from freshly baked bread is gorgeous. The former home of the composer Ronjgi (museum open weekdays), families with children will feel welcome.QRonjgi bb, Viškovo, tel. (+385-51) 25 60 38, www.ronjgi.com.hr. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 14:00. (50 - 80kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W

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Konoba Nebuloza Archives

ŠMRIKA A traditional Mediterranean cuisine and dishes include traditional preparation of lamb. Home made wine called ‘eliđo pilato’ plus many more wines.QMarčelji 15, Viškovo (Pansion Šmrika), tel. (+385-51) 65 10 20, www. smrika.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (100 - 300kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­S­W

INTERNATIONAL KAMOV Located in Rijeka’s top hotel, the Bonavia, this fine restaurant comprises several spaces, each with its own relaxing ambience. Croatian delicacies are imaginatively combined: the squid stuffed with cheese are delicious. Good wines by the bottle or glass; surprisingly reasonable prices.

QC‑2, Dolac 4, tel. (+385-51) 35 78 17, www.bonavia.hr.

Open 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 120kn). P­T­A­L­G­W SORRISO Right in the modern pool complex at Kantrida, Sorriso has a terrace right on the beach overlooking the green hills that tumble down to the Opatija Riviera. The menu, which changes every three months to include seasonal ingredients, features light food with interesting combinations of Mediterranean flavours. Choose from salads and fish dishes, plus nice desserts like panna cotta with forest fruits.

QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 63 28 12/ (+385-) 091 271 10 66, www.restaurant-sorriso.com. Open 09:00 24:00. (30 - 75kn). P­T­N­G­B­X­W

SYMBOL KEY P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

B Outside seating

L Guarded parking

S Take away

6 Pet-friendly

W Wifi

J Old town location

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Restaurants GIRICA Named after a little fish whose fate is usually similar to that of whitebait, i.e. it ends up deep fried and eaten head, tail and all with a sprinkling of lemon. A good meal is to be had in this pleasantly laid-back family run restaurant in the Rijeka suburbs.QN‑2, Vukovarska 65a, tel. (+385-51) 67 72 20, www.konoba-girica.incroatia.info/. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (38 - 150kn). P­T­A­L­G­W SPAGHO Just a stone throw from the Korza boardwalk, Spagho is the Italian Stallion of restaurants in Rijeka with a mega menu on offer. Sure, the chef’s daily specials are up, but the variety here goes beyond pizza, risotto and pasta, with steaks, soups, salads and desserts aplenty. The interior is a lovely fusion of wood and stone, and they also have an outdoor terrace. Open 10am for brunch through till late in the evening.QE‑2, Ivana Zajca 24a, tel. (+385-51) 31 11 22, www.ristorante-spagho.com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­T­J­A­G­B­X­ S­W

TRADITIONAL BLATO In a very traditional Croatian style with cosy rafters, tiled floors and dark wood – our team was divided in opinion - charming or socialist? We’ll plump for the first - this is an unpretentious place to try classic fish and meat dishes in a local atmosphere.QF‑1, Titov trg 8c, tel. (+385-51) 33 69 70, www.konoba-blato.blato1902.hr/. Open 08:00 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 80kn). P­T­ A­G­X­W FERAL Croatian classics – it’s a simple place with a small menu – which often means that what they do, they do well. Quality wines langush, Dionyses-like, on the list.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 5b, tel. (+385-51) 21 22 74, www.konoba-feral. com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (30 - 300kn). P­T­A­G­B­ X­S­W

IVE This restaurant in the western outskirts is run by a family of fishermen, so locals know it’s some of the freshest seafood to be had.QJ‑2, Miroslava Krleže 14, tel. (+385-51) 62 62 65, www.konoba-ive.hr. Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. (30 - 75kn). T­A­6­L­G­B­X­W KONOBA VOLTA A friendly place where locals go for marenda (brunch or light lunch). Tuna, shark and “frogfish” are on the menu – no, we’re not sure about that last one, either! Try coastal specialities such as brudet (fish stew) or bakalar (salt cod).

QD‑2, Pod voltun 15, tel. (+385-51) 56 42 97. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (35 - 105kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­W TARSA The huge size of this place is only matched by the size of the menu. With good cooking and comfortable, countrystyle surroundings, Tarsa is a little different from the rest, making it popular with locals. Try sausages with honey or cheese with truffles – a speciality from nearby Istria.QR‑2, Josipa Kulfaneka 10, Trsat, tel. (+385-51) 45 20 89. Open 11:30 - 00:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (40 - 120kn). P­T­A­6­U­L­G­B­X­S­W TRSATICA A great spot if you’re alone, with a special someone, and even with a horde of children. Trsatica has a terrace capable of accommodating all comers. It’s located close to the castle, and park, and has an amazing view. Portions are generous, and much of the cooking is done outdoors so you can keep an eye on things. Pretty much everyone is agreed that the best steak in Rijeka is to be found here.

QR‑2, Šetalište Joakima Rakovca 33, tel. (+385- 51) 45 27 16, www.restaurant-trsatica.com. Open 10:00 24:00. (45 - 200kn). P­T­6­B­X­W

MEXICAN

Bar Bar Restorant Archives, Photo by Ivan Vranjić

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MEXICAN CANTINA BODEGA What sounds like a cross between a Croatian taverna and a Spanish wine cellar is now a Mexican restaurant! One of the few restaurants specialising in ethnic foods for miles around, it turns out this one is... pretty good. The locals give it rave reviews in any case – especially for its chocolate pancakes, which we are told have driven some devotees to crimes of chocolate passion.QE‑3, Ivana Zajca 10, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 59/(+385-) 099 830 98 91, www. bodega.fullbusiness.com. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (50 - 80kn). P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

CHINESE PEKING You’ll find Peking, a comfortable and elegantly-appointed Chinese, in a pleasant residential area just north of the city centre. Thanks to the friendly and efficient service, and the excellent, good-value food (large portions), Peking has established an army of fans in Rijeka.QP‑3, Bože Milanovića 18, tel. (+385-51) 51 30 34, https://pekingrestaurant. fullbusiness.com/kontakt.htm. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (45 - 110kn). P­T­A­L­G­B­X­S­W PEKING WOK Newly opened at the western end of Korzo, near the fountains and Erste Bank, a stone’s throw from the bus station.

Enjoy an extensive menu of traditional, authentic Chinese dishes in comfortable surroundings for every occasion from business meetings, family celebrations, weddings, or a simple romantic evening out.QC‑2, Jadranski trg 4/C, tel. (+385-51) 41 08 88. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (25 - 119kn).

P­T­A­G­B­X­W

VEGETARIAN KLUB MAKROVEGA Like many vegetarian restaurants in Croatia, this is a health food club: the idea is you join, pay in advance and eat at reduced rates. However, if you’re just passing through they’ll make sure you’re looked after. The food is prepared using macrobiotic principles, using organic wholefoods, and most items are suitable for vegans. The daily menu offers facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

a mix of dishes at reasonable prices. Fresh juices are also on offer, and the vegan pancakes are a hit with the regulars.QE‑2, Matije Gupca 7, tel. (+385-51) 32 11 45, www. makrovega.fullbusiness.hr/. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (15 - 30kn). P­T­6­N­G­S­W PRIRODA I DRUŠTVO JUICE&SMOOTHIE BAR This is the first juice & smoothie bar in Rijeka. In a cosy, warm and friendly ambience furnished with natural materials and warm colours created by the owners who spent years living in Ireland. They offer twenty kinds of shakes and smoothies with fruits and vegetables, such as the popular Detox or Flu Fighter which do exactly as they say.

The drinks are made in front of you so that you know they are one hundred percent natural with no additives, chemicals or concentrates. They also deliver.QE‑2, Užarska 14 - u dvorištu, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 22/(+385-) 097 624 05 24, www.prirodaidrustvo.com. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. (15 - 30kn). i­T­J­6­V­ N­G­B­X­W TIFAN Offers a unique healthy, balanced and tasty lacto-vegetarian menu (no meat, fish or eggs). Freshly prepared food, weekly specials as well as a large selection of soft drinks and sweets can be found ‘till 4pm from Monday to Saturday with the possibility of home deliveries made in stainless steel containers – not your average foil or polystyrene boxes. Treat yourself!QT‑3, Spinčićeva 2, tel. (+385-) 098 85 00 19, www.tifan.hr. Open 07:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (30 - 60kn). P­i­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­S­W Summer 2017

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Restaurants LIGHT BITES BAR BAR Recently opened and has since become a fav gathering for city folk. Bar Bar is all about attention to detail with Roman stone and cast iron prevalent when it comes to interior, then there is the morning till night addition; coffee with croissants to lots of small snacks of fresh ingredients.

There is meat tartare, tuna with veggies, salmon and more.

Wines are aplenty and they have ‘take & share cards’ as memoirs! A true package!QD‑1/2, Pod Kaštelom 3, tel. (+385-) 097 712 99 49/(+385-) 091 739 31 99, www.barbar.eu/. Open 10:00 - 02:00, Mon, Wed 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (8 - 30kn). P­i­J­A­B­K­ S­W TRATTORIA GRANAIO What they do, they do best! Typical Italian cuisine prepared in ‘numero uno’ fashion. Choose from spaghetti and risotto with all the sauced combinations that your palate desires, plus lasagna, carpaccio, pizza and salads.

Vegetarian options available too! Hints of local specialties rather surprise and the prices are very fair. So if you are in the very heart of the Old Town of Rijeka, this modern trattoria is located just above the historic grain mill.QD‑1, Pod kaštelom 9, tel. (+385-51) 44 49 50, www.trattoriagranaio.hr/en. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. T­A­ B­W

Out of town CRES KONOBA BELI When on the island of Cres, pop into this restaurant for what is deemed to be a super brunch. But, there is a catch, you gotta be daring! Its lamb dropčići (offal), which is a hearty stew made of lamb heart, stomach and intestines, served with polenta and bread. Kid you not, people come back for it; it is homemade and authentic.QBeli 6, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 84 05 15/(+385-) 098 39 36 74, www. beli-cres.com/konoba-beli/. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (60 140kn). P­N­B

IČIĆI COMMODORE A large, clean and modern restaurant within the marina complex. A competent kitchen, the restaurant is particularly known for its separate pasta menu which offers specialities from Krk island and Istra.QLiburnijska 7a, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 70 40 49/(+385-) 098 982 26 23, www. restoran-commodore.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (50 360kn). P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W

MORNAR Right by the ferry terminal, a great place for a cheap lunch.

Mornar (“the sailor”) serves both meat and fish dishes. Try homemade goulash with gnocchi, roast veal or basically any of fish specialities from the menu.QD‑3, Riva Boduli 5b, tel. (+385-51) 31 22 22. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (22 65kn). P­i­T­J­A­6­L­G­B­X­S­W

DOPOLAVORO If the heat’s getting too much for you, head for the top of Mount Učka where you’ll find a refreshing breeze and this excellent traditional game restaurant with accents of Istrian specialities such as asparagus and truffles. Try the meat ispod peke style – it’s superbly juicy. Reserve in advance.

QUčka 9, Ičići, tel. (+385-51) 29 96 41/(+385-) 091 222 53 35, www.dopolavoro.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Monday. From July Open 12:00 - 23:00. (40 - 130kn).

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PIZZA

KASTAV

MASLINA NA ZELENOM TRGU A gourmet bistro-pizzeria in the heart of the city with a focus on using high-quality seasonal ingredients from the nearby town market! Pizza is there ‘numero uno’ offer, particularly their gourmet sorts, but chef Dušan Džimbeg also has his daily menu with local produce specials such as humus, beef carpaccio, pasta with shrimp and truffles, wasabi tuna, and vegetarian dishes too.QD‑2, Koblerov trg bb, tel. (+385-51) 56 35 63, www.pizzeria-maslina. hr/na-zelenom-trgu/. Open 11:00 - 23:30. Closed Sun. (32 - 94kn). P­T­J­A­G­B­X­S­W

MALA RIBA This delightful restaurant serves tapas the ‘Kvarner way’ where you can devour crab, snails, fish, squid, and olives… in small combinations. Though the menu is based mainly around fish, meat lovers are never left out. It’s on the main road between Matulji and Kastav!QTometići 33a, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 27 79 45, www.mala-riba.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. (60 - 100kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W

PIZZERIA BRACERA A pizzeria owned by the same people as Zlatna Školjka opposite - one of Rijeka’s finest dining rooms. Bracera has a rustic, seafaring personality. Its crusty pizzas from the clay oven are among the best in town, and they do great big crispy salads.QC‑2, Kružna ulica 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 24 98, www.pizzeria-bracera.com.hr. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (32 - 95kn). P­T­A­­GBX­W 24 Rijeka In Your Pocket

KRK BRACERA This lively restaurant a short walk from Malinska’s seafront is worth seeking out for great quality seafood and grilled meat dishes, and swift service with a smile. A great choice is a plate of fresh fried “small fish” – sardines or similar.

Vitamin rich, and easy on your pocket!QKvarnerska 1, Malinska , Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 87 00, www.konobabracera.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (30 - 300kn). P­T­ N­G­B­X­W rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Restaurants

Vila Kapetanović Archives

GOSPOJA Top quality Kvarner specialities, including seafood, home made sheeps’ milk cheese and šurlice with goulash – a type of pasta which is a speciality of Krk. The owners, the Toljanić family, also make a well-respected bottle of žlahtina, which you can buy to take home.QFrankopan‑ ska 1, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 71 42, www.gospoja. hr. April - October 30 Open 11:00 - 23:00. (40 - 180kn).

T­A­L­G­B­X­S­W KONOBA NADA If Vrbnik is renowned far and wide for great cuisine and fantastic wine, then Nada is one of the institutions that flies the flag. Choose the tiny konoba downstairs or the spacious restaurant (which attracts coachloads of foodie pilgrims - call to reserve in advance).QGlavača 22, Vrbnik, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 85 70 65, www.nada-vrbnik.hr. April - October 31 Open 12:00 - 22:00. (135 - 175kn). P­T­ A­G­B­X­W KONOBA RIBICE As the name “little fish” suggests, this is the place you should settle down for a traditional meal of small fried fish with a fresh salad, bread and wine. Simple and healthy. A sweet little place with a lovely garden in the heart of old Punat.QUlica 17. travnja 95, Punat, Krk, tel. (+385-) 091 184 13 01, www.konoba-ribice.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00.

(30 - 70kn). P­T­6­N­G­B­X­W

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RIVICA RESTAURANT Rivica is iconic to Krk with a family history of food and hospitality lasting three generations. Some call it a hedonistic experience with attention paid to detail, what’s important is that it offers a fusion of traditional Mediterranean cuisine and modern gastronomy. Seafood is definitely high on the menu as is local produce from truffles to asparagus blended with other foods. There is also a small wine cellar inside the restaurant featuring mostly local Croatian wines.

QRibarska obala 13, Njivice, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 61 01, www.rivica.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (70 - 200kn). P­T­ J­A­6­B­X­W

LOVRAN DRAGA DI LOVRANA Head for this delightful little family-run hilltop hotel near Lovran, away from the heat and the crowds, and you’ll find fantastic Mediterranean food (including fish they catch themselves) prepared with the utmost care. Try homemade bread and desserts, and drink in the view from the terrace.QLovranska draga 1, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 41 66, www.dragadilovrana.hr. Open 13:00 - 23:00, Mon 18:00 - 23:00. (70 - 200kn). P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W LOVRANSKA VRATA With a gorgeous position in the heart of Lovran’s old town, directly in front of St George’s Church, this is a pleasant spot to enjoy a good selection of meat and seafood specialities.QTrg Sv Jurja 94, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 10 50.

Open 10:00 - 23:00. (50 - 150kn). P­T­A­G­B­X­W Summer 2017

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Restaurants worth a try. Friendly and comfortable.QZert 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 23 45, www.yacht-club-opatija.com.

Open 10:00 - 24:00. (50 - 150kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­ X­W CANTINETTA SV. JAKOV A unique restaurant beneath the grand arcades and perhaps one of the Opatija’s best kept secrets , Cantinetta Sv. Jakov may be best described as a blend of an italian trattoria and a wine bar. The menu is focused on good and simple Mediterranean cuisine, such as grilled fresh fish, grilled steak, fish soup and homemade pasta with a commitment using local and sustainable foods.QPava Tomašića 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 20 66, www.milenijhoteli.hr.

Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00. From September 15 Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 200kn). P­T­A­L­G­B­ X­W

Canttineta Sv. Jakov Restaurant Archives

NAJADE Classic good food – fish, seafood and pasta. Najade has a rustic stone interior, a local atmosphere, friendly waiting staff and a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, just by the coast path in Lovran.QŠetalište Maršala Tita 69, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 18 66. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 250kn).

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MOŠĆENIČKA DRAGA JOHNSON This family-run restaurant is renowned for its good fish, seafood and wines. It’s not as elegant as you might expect, since it is quite pricey, but the service and the fine cooking make up for it. On the road towards Mošćenice.

QMajćevo 29b, Mošćenička Draga, tel. (+385-51) 73 75 78, www.johnson.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. (75 - 250kn). P­T­A­6­L­G­B­X­S­W

OPATIJA ARISTON The restaurant of this beautiful small hotel has an imperialstyle dining room with a reputation for excellent fish and seafood, and culinary flair drawing on the best of local and international cuisine. With courteous and professional service, we’re sure you’ll enjoy it.QMaršala Tita 179, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 79, www.villa-ariston.hr. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (70 - 130kn). P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W BISTRO YACHT CLUB A lovely traditional style restaurant nestled by Opatija’s little harbour – enjoy a walk through the lovely park to get there. The owners try to make sure that real home cooking and seasonal specialities are on the menu, so it’s well 26 Rijeka In Your Pocket

GASTRO WORLD This revamped 19th century hotel offers a morning to night food experience over two floors. Choose from homemade desserts, coffee and tea, sip on wine and champagne at the bar. Local delicacies in the tavern offer risotto, traditional ham, cheese, olives, pizza and plenty more, together with more than 40 types of beer in the pub next door. The basement maintains a small oasis of chocolate. It’s a smorgasbord of food rooms!QM.Tita 85, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 80 00, www.milenijhoteli.hr.

Open 07:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 23:00. (50 - 280kn).

P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W ISTRANKA A charming little bistro tucked away in a pleasant street just behind Maršala Tita, Opatija’s main drag. It offers traditional food from Istria – a region with a very distinct style.

A shady terrace and musical accompaniment – worth tracking down.QBože Milanovića 2, Opatija, tel. (+38551) 27 18 35/(+385-) 098 26 08 35, www.istranka.net.

Open 10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 120kn). P­T­A­6­G­B­ X­W

VOLOSKO LAVRVS Part of the delightful new hotel Villa Kapetanović just outside the centre of Opatija, Laurus has become a culinary force to be reckoned with. The owner personally oversees the restaurant and the supply of fine Croatian wines – always a good sign.QNova cesta 12a, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 74 13 55, www.villa-kapetanovic.hr. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (65 - 185kn). P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W PLAVI PODRUM A high class restaurant in Volosko, more traditional than Le Mandrać. An excellent fish menu and wine list - the owner was Sommelier of the Year in 2001 and 2002. Although the interior is very smart, the terrace is nowhere near as stylish.QObala Frane Supila 12, Volosko-Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 70 12 23/(+385-) 098 25 75 73, www. plavipodrum.com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (60 - 180kn).

P­T­AGBXS­W rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Local Flavour

Dobrinj Tourist Board Archives

FOOD MARKETS Visiting a city’s marketplace is a brilliant way to get a feel for how people live and what you’ll find on their tables at mealtimes. In Rijeka, an added bonus is that the main city market is also an architectural treasure. The central market (or placa) is set in a fascinating spot behind the old cargo docks right in the heart of the city. At the water’s edge it’s fringed with atmospheric old warehouses, some of which are monuments of industrial heritage. On its eastern side it abuts the National Theatre with its graceful square and a complex of elegant buildings built at the end of the 19th century. One of the market buildings itself (the fish market) is a protected cultural monument, so this is one item on the sightseeing agenda you really shouldn’t miss.

Since Rijeka is a coastal city it’s no surprise that the fish market has always been highly important, and the site of today’s market is the spot where fishermen have unloaded their catch for centuries. A covered fish market has been here since 1866, and as the city has grown it has periodically been rebuilt to accommodate the needs of the population. The structure you see today dates from 1916. It’s built in an Art Nouveau style known as the secession style after the artistic movement founded in 19th century Vienna

by Gustav Klimt and a bunch of like-minded artists. Of the three market pavilions it’s the one which most clearly still shows its original structure.

However, the fish market is very far from being a still life: it’s usually thronging with people, as Rijeka’s citizens do love their fish. The trays of fish laid out are quite a sight: full of silvery sardines, squid and pink Kvarner scampi, there’s a chaotic symmetry about it which is a favourite subject for photographers. The other two market pavilions date from 1880 and are interesting for their iron construction which was pretty forward-thinking for the time, a herald of the industrial age. In one you’ll find fresh and dried meats, while the other is for dairy produce. For lovers of good food one fine thing about the market is you can still find smallholders selling their own produce. Look out for bars of butter made at small dairies in whimsical floral moulds, and yogurt, milk and great cheeses from a goat farm on Krk island. In the meat section you’ll find hand-made dried sausages and local pršut, while the ladies on the upper floor sell home-made cheeses and other bits and pieces.

We recommend you try this home-made food. It’s what the locals value most; these are the flavours they remember from childhood. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Outside is where the fruit and vegetables are on sale.

Here it’s a free-for-all between traders selling imported goods, local farmers, and ladies with just a few items from their gardens at home. This again is where you find the interesting stuff. Instead of industrially-grown lettuce you can buy handfuls of young lettuce leaves, shaded and speckled with burgundy and pink, tenderly bitter; delicate lamb’s lettuce, peppery rucola and baby radiccio leavs. In springtime you might see medveđi luk - wild garlic leaves, which are absolutely delicious lightly cooked or in salads.

But do be aware that a stray lily-of-the-valley leaf or another impostor that finds its way in can cause fatal poisoning - unfortunately it does happen. Another spring treat with health-giving properties is asparagus - both the garden variety and its slender wild cousin, which has a stronger flavour. Locals like to lightly blanch it or fry it and serve it with eggs. Dried figs, glistening olives from an old lady’s garden… Sensuous cherries to cool you in summer… Locallygrown citrus fruits that render the whole kitchen a scented paradise… And those little stalls with odds and ends that become your favourites… intensely-flavoured herbs that make wonderful teas; delicious, locally-produced honey…

Once you’ve tried the market, there’s no going back. It’s an addiction, a necessary condition for life.

Then there’s the flower market by the theatre, the barometer of the changing seasons, and the stalls in the side streets selling clothes and handy accessories. Look out for the many-strutted windproof umbrellas designed to withstand the fierce north wind, the infamous bura, essential if you’re in town in the winter. The market is open daily from 07:00 to 14:00, and ‘til noon on Sundays. Do go and enjoy the seasonal produce from the whole region, its highlands and islands, and the equally colourful mix of people. Elderly people, young people, working people who grow the produce on sale, men and women. It’s the real Rijeka.

FLOATING MARKET Not your ordinary market flotation, but a fruit and veg market on the water, a sight you can see in Mali Lošinj town. A couple of boats sell their wares at the water’s edge. The colourful cargo bobbing about on the waves is perfectly charming!

Opatija Riviera Tourist Board Archives, Photonet, Photo by Valter Stojšić

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Local Flavour old recipe that was a favourite of wealthy families during the Venetian Republic. Often shaped like a spiral, a marzipan-like mix of almonds, eggs, lemon and orange peel and Maraschino liqueur is encased in delicate pastry. It’s usually baked at weddings and other celebrations, and since it keeps for about two months it’s sold beautifully-packed as a souvenir.

Frankopan torta, Crikvenica Tourist Board Archives

LOCAL DISHES Rijeka’s enviable location where mountains meet sea, where islands meet the rural delights of the Istrian peninsula, allows you to enjoy a great variety of foods, from fish and seafood to meat and game, by way of tender young garden vegetables and scented Mediterranean herbs. You can read more about the benefits of the Mediterranean diet in our Health Tourism pages 50-55 here we’ll focus on the gastronomy of the region.

Let’s start with the islands. The islands of the Kvarner region, especially Cres and Pag, are known in Croatia for excellent lamb, cheeses and medicinal herbs. The first two are dependent on the latter. It is said that the fine flavour of the island lamb is thanks comes from the animals’ pasture on the island hillsides, herbs laced with salt from the wind.

Cres and Pag have a number of great eateries where you can enjoy locally-reared lamb - see our Restaurants section. Bear in mind that lamb is naturally at its best in the springtime. This environment is also the reason why the islanders produce excellent sheep’s milk cheese. Pag island in particular has a long tradition of producing cheese and there are a few good larger manufacturers on the island.

A notable one is Gligora - you can call into their factory at Kolan in the central part of the island and taste some of their products.

As well as being a favourite foodstuff of sheep and goats, the benefits of herbs for humans are well-known. One of our favourite things about Croatia’s coast is how lush its vegetation is, and the air is redolent of herbs and pine. For this reason, ever since the 19th century people have been sent on doctor’s orders to the Kvarner coast to recover from illness and allergies. You can buy the distilled benefits of wild herbs in the form of essential oils, balms and strong spirits which have deep roots in folk medicine. Myrtle, bay, strawberry tree, sage and lavender... You can find out more about these herbs by visiting the Garden of Fine Scents at Mali Lošinj town (Ulica Braće Vidulića 68). Still on the islands, we can’t talk about Kvarner cuisine without mentioning šurlice, a speciality from the island of Krk which you’ll find throughout the region. This is a type of pasta made by wrapping the dough around a knitting needle. Handmade pasta with a rich sauce is always a pleasure, and there are many different sauces to choose from, though we’d say goulash is probably a classic. On the island of Rab, you’ll probably spot rapska torta (Rab cake). This is a centuries28 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Most island villages in the summer months have festivals during which you can sample local delicacies and enjoy music and dancing with the locals. This is a great opportunity to find out more about the local culture, so we definitely recommend you check the festivals out. In the springtime, a brilliant treat is asparagus picked in the wild. Wild asparagus is slimmer than the cultivated variety and has a stronger, slightly bitter taste. It’s great in risottos and pasta, frittatas, soups and salads. Spring is also the time many love to eat wild garlic leaves, which are fabulous in salads or lightly cooked with potato. Sadly though there have been recent cases of poisoning where even knowledgeable foragers have mistaken other kinds of leaves for wild garlic.

Just a few such interlopers can be enough to cause fatal poisoning, so we’ll leave it up to you whether to risk it.

On a more cheerful note, come early summer it’s time for delicious cherries. The town of Lovran is famous for its large, sweet cherries (trešnje), so be sure to pick up a kilo or three. Lovran is also famous for excellent-quality sweet chestnuts (maruni), and come autumn time you’ll find chestnut puree in cake shops (slastičarnice), while chestnut desserts adorn many a restaurant menu. Also for the sweet-toothed, Crikvenica town is famous for a special cake, Frankopan torta, made with apricots or peaches, almonds, raisins, pastry, sweet spices and topped with whipped cream. With such ingredients it was clearly a cake for rich families, and indeed it’s named after the Frankopan nobles. The recipe was among those in one of the first cookery books in central Europe, written by Anna Maria, Princess of Eggenberg, and published in 1686.

Finally, if you get the chance to sample real Kvarner scampi do give them a try. Specimens which are as large as they should be are not easy to find these days, so they carry a hefty price tag, but it’s a real delight. Before we head inland, we ought to mention nearby Istria, which is also famous for asparagus, as well as local truffles, and an indigenous type of cattle called boškarin. If you have time, we highly recommend you explore inland Istria. Its hilltop towns and villages are reminiscent of Tuscany and Provence, and you’re sure to encounter wonderful food and wine on your travels.

Finally, the uplands that frame Rijeka are famous for game, wild mushrooms and berries. At the very least we recommend that on your way to or from the coast you turn off the motorway at any village or town. There you’re sure to find a restaurant where you can stop for a delicious blueberry strudel. Even better, take a trip up Mount Učka right from Opatija, or head into the Gorski kotar highlands (where you’ll see idyllic Alpine-style scenery and architecture). You’ll find hearty mountain food that will sate the most voracious appetites. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Coffee & Cakes CAKES CHOCO BAR BONBONNIÈRE KRAŠ Chocoholics look out! Dip into this two levelled bar located on Korzo and fill your tender taste buds with the sweets on offer. It’s a franchise linked to the famous Croatian brand Kraš so you can purchase all their specialties downstairs or even hop on upstairs where you can mellow out and enjoy coffee whilst nibbling on chocolate cookies, sip on chocolate cocktails and more. The interior has a pleasant mix of minimalist furniture with a touch of art deco.QD‑2, Korzo 24a, tel. (+385-51) 58 09 59, www.kraschocobar. com. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. P­T­J­ A­G­B­X­W GELATERIA CORSO Light and delicious cakes - some of the best in town, we’d say. Great coffee too. A perfect terrace for a spot of people-watching on Korzo, and a bright and cheerful upstairs seating area with a view of the decorative buildings opposite.QD‑2, Korzo 20, tel. (+385-51) 30 19 45/(+385-) 099 213 11 66, www.gelateria-corso.com. Open 07:00 02:00. P­T­J­N­G­B­X­W PIKO PIKO bakery offers daily fresh bread, pastries, sandwiches and lots of snacks. A pleasant ambience and always fresh products will make your day in Rijeka more enjoyable.

QKorzo 38b, tel. (+385-51) 58 60 01, www.pikrijeka. hr. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. P­T­J­A­G­B­X­W

COFFEE BOOK CAFFE DNEVNI BORAVAK For those of you wondering, the café translation is ‘The Living Room’ and it is in the atmosphere here that does justice to the café’s name. Friendly staff, very unpretentious and occasional live music is a plus. There is a separate

room for non-smokers which serves as a gallery.QB‑1, Ci‑ ottina 12a. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Sat 09:00 - 00:00, Sun 16:00 - 00:00. P­T­J­6­E­N­X­W CUKARIKAFE The old-fashioned huddle of streets just north of Korzo are a fitting place for this delightful little café. The interior is a blend of bright modern colour and old-fashioned furniture, all with an eccentric twist. The drinks menu is just fab: an excellent selection of wines and beers at sensible prices. Nice teas and hot chocolate, good coffee, fresh juices and chilled-out sounds on the stereo… What more could you want?QD‑2, Trg Jurja Klovića 4, tel. (+385-) 099 583 82 76. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W FERRARI It’s Ferrari red, people. A shady terrace to sit on the square, close to the Bonavia.QD‑2, 128. Brigade Hrvatske vojske 8, tel. (+385-51) 33 12 15. Open 07:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. P­J­N­B­X FILODRAMMATICA BOOKSHOP CAFFE This stylish café is bang on Korzo and offers a rare selection of coffees, unique to Rijeka as well as yummy snacks and cakes. Its palatial façade was designed in the late 19th century by a nationalized Italian Giacomo Zammattio and is a listed building. If you walk to the rear of the café you’ll find the city library which stocks all the latest bestsellers and tourist guides. Sit outside and soak up the atmosphere of Korzo, watch the world go by and enjoy a good book too.

QD‑2, Korzo 28, tel. (+385-51) 21 16 96. Open 07:00 23:00. T­J­6­N­G­B­X­W FIORELLO PUB A brand new old fashioned style café in shopping central.

QD‑2, Korzo 2d, tel. (+385-51) 33 13 90. Open 07:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 01:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­T­ J­N­B­X­W

Photo by Višnja Arambašić

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Coffee & Cakes or snack.QA‑1, Nikole Tesle 1a, tel. (+385-51) 33 78 95.

Open 06:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 22:00. P­T­N­ B­X­W

OPATIJA COFFEE

ISKRA Located in the heart of Rijeka since 1975, this bar provides a blend of traditional and modern in its ambient and variety of drinks. You’ll enjoy their wide selection of Croatian wines and delicious prosciutto. If you’re visiting during Rijeka’s famous Carnival, this is where you should be.QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 21 14 06. Open 06:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 06:00 - 14:00. P­T­6­N­G­B­X­W KOSI TORANJ Has a nice little terrace by the leaning tower of the Church of St Mary of the Assumption. If it’s your scene, you might be lucky enough to catch a deep house/electro/ funky house breakbeat DJ set come evening.QE‑2, Put vele crikve 1. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00.

P­T­J­N­B­X­W LATINO A nice arty little café with good cakes.QE‑2, Pavlinski trg 4a, tel. (+ 385-51) 33 66 87. Open 06:30 - 22:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. P­T­6­N­B­X­W PIRAMIDA A comfortable little spot on the Sušak side of Rijeka.QF‑2, Strossmayerova 12a, tel. (+385-51) 37 11 81. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 14:00. P­T­J­6­N­X­W STRIGA At the same city square as the Hotel Continental, a most pleasant place to rest and admire the view of the square and watch folk pass over the modern footbridge.QF‑1, Titov trg 14, tel. (+385-51) 37 23 11. June - September Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­T­J­6­N­ B­X­W VINTAGE BAR You’d be mad to miss out on this spectacularly located café bar. Atop a hill in Trsat and overlooking a stunning view of Rijeka city, this café has the perfect surroundings, a well preserved fortress from eons ago. This friendly café is set inside the Elliptical Tower of the fortress – which is in fact an exhibition space. Seating also spills out onto the terrace, the best vantage point for a perfect view of everything including the adjacent, ancient Greek inspired Nugent Family mausoleum.QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog bb, Trsatska Gradina, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37/(+385-) 095 865 66 77. Open 09:00 - 02:00. B VOYAGER Not in space, but opposite the railway station, a super (air conditioned) place to while away the time over a drink 30 Rijeka In Your Pocket

CAFÉ WAGNER Overlooking the sea at the very east end of the beach is this traditional and classy kavana – a coffee house in the Austrian style. A firm favourite with the fur-coat brigade who like to disport themselves on Wagner’s crescentshaped terrace whatever the weather.QMaršala Tita 109 (Hotel Millennium), tel. (+385-51) 20 20 71, www. milenijhoteli.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­T­A­L­G­ B­X­W CHOCO BAR BONBONNIÈRE KRAŠ Run by Croatia’s premier chocolate manufacturer, Kraš, Čokobar is a devilishly tempting destination for anyone with a soft spot for the dark stuff. The drinking chocolate they serve here is sensuously thick and luxuriant – in contrast to the vaguely brown-coloured milky drink you tend to get elsewhere. Alongside regular tea-and-coffee-type drinks, Čokobar also serves chocolate-plus-hard-liquor cocktails. Additionally, Kraš chocolate sweets can be bought either individually or by the box.QMaršala Tita 94, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 60 35 62, www.kraschocobar. com. Open 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. July, Au‑ gust Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. P­T­A­ G­B­X­W DESIGN HOTEL ASTORIA One of the funkiest spots in Opatija, the styling in this bar is sharp enough to take your eye out. It’s light and airy, with pleasing, feminine touches such as fresh flowers, and has a lovely big terrace. A great place for relaxed cocktails.

QUlica maršala Tita 174, tel. (+385-51) 70 63 50, www. hotel-astoria.hr. Open 07:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 22:00.

P­T­A­L­G­B­X­W PALME Enjoy the ceilings and bouffant plasterwork in this lofty, Viennese-style coffee house with comfortable, modern furnishings. The cakes are phenomenal! Treat yourself to mulled wine and special doughnuts (krafne) at Carnival time.QUlica Maršala Tita 108 (Hotel Bristol), tel. (+38551) 70 63 18, www.hotel-bristol.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

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WINE BARS KOD ZAJCA WINE&COFFEE BAR Seeking local produce? See the very best of Croatian wines at reasonable prices. With live music on Wednesdays and Fridays, and presentations of Croatian wine makers on Thursdays, this is the perfect place for somewhat of a different day out.QD‑3, Verdijeva 7a, tel. (+385-51) 31 31 10. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­E­N­B­X­W rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Nightlife BARS BAR BAR #2 The Bar Bar family is slowly but surely expanding. Yes indeed, venue number two is dubbed as Bar Bar#2 and is the new kid on the block with a full pedal to the metal publike feel to it. Even though it is the youngest member, Bar Bar#2 combines industry with some great beverage and snacks combinations​. It typically defines the golden age of Rijeka production with one room teeming with age old artefacts allowing for a stroll down memory lane. Look out for the homemade nibbles at the bar amongst other specials.QD‑2, Pod Kaštelom 5, tel. (+385-) 097 712 99 49/ (+385-) 091 739 31 99, www.bar-bar.eu/. P­J­X­W GALAXIE BAR Should you find yourself up in the Zamet neighbourhood, you have a good bar in the locality. Head for the new sports centre where you’ll find this smart bar on the upper plateau. Appropriately enough, there are big screens for watching sports events, but there’s also a good mix of Croatian and foreign music on the stereo.QBože Vidasa bb (Dvorana Zamet), tel. (+385-) 091 242 42 22. Open 07:00 - 24:00. P­T­6­L­N­G­B­X­W HEMINGWAY BAR Part of a Croatian chain of fashionable bars inspired by the Daiquiri-sipping hero, Opatija’s Hemingway is the most cultish of all, with its semi-circular glass façade gazing out towards the yachts and excursion boats of the town’s tidy little harbour. There’s a wealth of Hemingway-related memorabilia on display but the cocktails remain reliable and the mildly upmarket party atmosphere still kicks in at weekends. Besides being a coffee-drinking and cocktailsipping venue, for several generations now, you can also get your lunch here.QZert 2, Opatija, tel. (+385-) 098 32 44 56/(+385-51) 27 28 87, www.hemingway.hr. Open 08:00 - 06:00. P­T­A­6­G­B­X­W KAROLINA Probably the first and last stop for ferry passengers in port of Rijeka, right on the quayside between the moored restaurant and café boats. It overlooks the ferry terminal and the Molo Longo pier which encircles the port itself.

During the day, sit outside and soak up the working port’s life, the fishing boats and visiting yachts. At night enjoy well-known and less well-known cocktails served by top barmen and on Fridays and Saturdays experience music chosen by top DJs.QD‑2, Gat Karoline Riječke bb, tel. (+385-) 091 490 40 42. Open 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00. P­T­J­6­E­N­B­X­W MIRAGE The Mirage bar is on the top level of this smashing new sports centre, pool and beach area. Lounge music soothes the soul by day, while towards evening things get lively.

A DJ spins commercial house and techno, and there are occasional live bands. A great spot to watch the sun sink and enjoy a fabulous view over the Opatija riviera.QJ‑3, Is‑ tarska bb, tel. (+385-) 091 200 75 99. Open 07:00 - 02:00.

P­T­6­N­B­X­W facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

NAD UROM Located on the top floor of the Korzo shopping centre right next to the city’s famous clock tower which is the entrance to Rijeka’s old town. Here you can enjoy the view of the city’s bustling main drag over your morning coffee.

However what also makes this an excellent location is its wide range of evening events. Every weekend it hosts great live music, from jazz to ambient from rock to blues.

Their website and Facebook pages are the best places to keep informed. During regular shopping hours entrance is via the shopping centre and outside hours and in the evenings you need to use the lift which is at the rear of the building.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera 1 (Ri Department Store), tel. (+385-51) 33 33 38, www.nadurom.com.

Open 08:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. P­T­J­N­ G­B­X­W PEPE ROSSO In the lovely old quarter by the ferry terminal, this bar has a classy drinks menu, book promotions, art exhibitions, live blues and a welcoming atmosphere above all, spanning all age ranges. Which makes it all rather splendid, really!QD‑3, Verdieva 19a, tel. (+385-51) 31 20 56/(+385) 099 531 20 56. Open 07:30 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 03:00.

Closed Sun. P­T­A­E­G­B­X­W POGON TRSAT On the ground floor of the big sports complex in the heart of Trsat, this bar “sports” a trendy clientele (sorry!). Both a popular spot for a coffee by day and for evening drinks before hitting town. There’s a large terrace and relaxed Summer 2017

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Nightlife soundtrack, featuring house and r’n’b and Croatian music on Fridays.QR‑2, Trg Viktora Bubnja bb, Mladost Sports Centre, tel. (+385-) 099 607 20 85. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 02:00. P­L­G­B­X

music scene graces Boa with a live performance.QE‑2, Ante Starčevića 8, tel. (+385-) 091 339 93 39. Open 06:00 - 02:00, Fri 06:00 - 05:00, Sat 07:00 - 05:00, Sun 08:00 02:00. P­J­E­N­B­X­W

RAKHIA BAR This is the first rakija bar in Rijeka with over 50 kinds of Croatia’s well-known spirit. It is located in the centre in the Old Town. In this extremely pleasant and charming atmosphere done out with little details this is the place where you have the chance to try rare brandies of elderflower and anise with gold leaf as well as brandy truffles, brandy carob and many more.QD‑2, Andrije Medulića 5, tel. (+385-) 095 393 99 05. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Tue, Fri 07:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00. P­T­J­ 6­N­B­X­W

TEUTA The Teuta Club is recognised for its clubbing with a great choice of good music, characterized by its friendly atmosphere where people know how to relax. Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays expect performances by the best the DJs, VJs, singers and musicians with a modern urban twist. It is split into two floors which with multimedia support are merged into one.QE‑2, Užarska 1. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. N­G­B

SABRAGE Our tip for the best café in town. The terrace in old Trsat is unsurpassed. Inside, antiques cushion your bones and jazz sounds soothe your soul. The great drinks menu (excellent wines) challenges your decision-making abilities, and the goalpost in the urinal your motor skills. Time well spent indeed.QR‑2, Petra Zrinskog 2, tel. (+385-) 099 236 75 37/(+385-) 095 865 66 77, www.sabragebar.com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. P­T­J­E­N­B­X­W TETA ROŽA Possibly the best of Rijeka’s neighbourhood bars, with a marble-and-mirror-lined sanctuary of a main bar, and a more arty space at the back featuring paintings on the walls, chairs on the ceiling, and a small stage for frequent jazz and rock gigs. About twenty minutes’ walk northeast of town on the main road to Trsat it’s hardly central, but with Austrian Hirter beer on draught, alongside Duvel, Corsendonk and other Belgian speciality beers by the bottle, Auntie Rosie’s place is well worth struggling up the hill for.QS‑3, Kumičićeva 55a, tel. (+385-) 099 480 60 30.

Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 02:00. P­T­6­N­ B­X­W THE BEERTIJA Top courtyard open terrace with a mindboggling list of local and imported ales gives it the thumbs up. Few can match the local liquors and shots also, they’ll have you burrrning! It’s up in the Trsat district and live gigs add to the entire pubish type experience.QR‑2, Slavka Krautze‑ ka 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 21 83. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu 08:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 03:00. P­T­A­6­E­B­ X­W

CLUBS BOA This confection reminds one of a chocolate box, with feminine cream and lilac colouring. Relentlessly modern in design, this is one of the city centre’s poshest spots for sipping drinks and nibbling cakey things. In the evening it pumps out commercial house, attracting a dressed-up crowd out to be seen. The occasional star of the Croatian 32 Rijeka In Your Pocket

TUNEL Located next to the car park at Školjić and set in a real tunnel, this is a heaven for all fans of alternative culture - laid back jazz, blues, funk, soul, rock and electronic music, you’ll find exhibitions, fairs of handcrafts of all sorts here.

The cool interior has a small stage for live jam sessions and concerts.”QE‑1, Školjić 12. Open Mon, Thu 09:00 - 02:00, Tue, Wed 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 19:00 03:00. Closed Sun. P­T­A­6­N­B­X

PUBS CELTIC CAFFE BARD A lovely little bar right outside St Vitus’s Church, with a cosy split-level interior filled with off-beat artworks – and not a TV screen or replica soccer shirt in sight. Connoisseurs of a good pint will be kept happy by Carinthia’s finest Hirter beer on tap and a large number of speciality ales in bottles. With a music policy that runs through blues, jazz, sixties soul and classic reggae, Bard appeals to a slightly older crowd who like a drink and who appreciate good music but don’t want to shout over the din of top-40 drivel.QE‑2, Trg Grivica 6b, tel. (+385-51) 21 52 35. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. P­T­J­ 6­N­B­X­W PHANAS PUB A big hit with the local crowd, Phanas plays music from rock to commercial dance, and is the place to rub shoulders with the city’s party people. A rather luxuriously executed traditional dark wood pub with a nautical feel, with a huge bar, jet-setty drinks plus a few snacks.QD‑3, Ivana Zajca 9, tel. (+385-51) 31 23 77, www.phanas.hr. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Thu 07:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 05:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. P­T­J­A­E­X­W RIVER PUB With a slightly older crowd, a nice woodsy interior, a great deck out back and music that inspires conversation and inebriation, River Pub is one of the most fun places to enjoy a drink and a little shimmying till late. One of the best nights out in Rijeka.QD‑1, Frana Supila 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 46 73. Open 06:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 06:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 04:00. Closed Sun. P­T­J­N­B­X­W rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives, Photonet, Photo by Valter Stojšić

ESSENTIAL RIJEKA ST VITUS CATHEDRAL (KATEDRALA SV. VIDA) Although there has been a church dedicated to the patron saint and protector of Rijeka since the Middle Ages the Cathedral as we see it today was founded in 1638 by the Jesuits, who were once an influential force in the Europeanisation of Rijeka under the Hapsburgs. It’s a rotunda, rather unusual in this part of Europe, with elements of baroque and gothic, including fine baroque statuary inside. A gallery was built in the 18th century, apparently to insulate devout novice monks from the allure of girls in the congregation. There is also some unusual stained glass work, including an image of St Vitus, and a gothic crucifix. Legend has it that a certain Petar Lončarić was playing cards outside the church, and in a fit of pique at losing, threw a stone at the crucifix. To the amazement of onlookers, the figure of Christ started bleeding. The ground opened and swallowed up the blasphemous Mr Lončarić, leaving just his arm waving gruesomely. It was cut off and burned in public. The cathedral has a separate belltower which once gave access from the gallery to a huge Jesuit college and seminary, which sadly are no more. By the main entrance facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

you can see a cannonball embedded in the wall and a Latin inscription referring to the Napoleonic wars which translates as “This fruit was sent to us by England when it wanted to oust the Gauls from here”. St Vitus’ was promoted to Cathedral status in 1925. Holly Mass: 07:00, Sun 09:45 (italian), 11:00.QD‑1, Grivica 11, tel. (+385-51) 33 08 79.

THE CITY TOWER AND CITY GATE (GRADSKI TORANJ, GRADSKA VRATA) Walking along Korzo, near the Jadranski trg end, is a fine yellow building topped with a clock tower. This was once a gate – the original entrance to the Roman settlement Tarsatica - where one entered the city from the sea – everything that stands between here and the present-day waterfront is reclaimed land. There has been a tower on this spot since the Middle Ages, when Rijeka was a walled city. A massive earthquake in 1750 destroyed it, along with many other important buildings. Money for a new one was given by the Austrian Empress Maria Theresa. In 1873, a new-fangled clock which Rijeka’s governors spotted at the World Exhibition proved too tempting by far, the very same which still shows the correct time today.QD‑2, Korzo.

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Sightseeing THE CORSO (KORZO) The “Corso” is Rijeka’s main pedestrian street. Lined by elegant period buildings, shops and cafés, interspersed with refreshing fountains, this is where the locals gather by day to catch up on the latest, and to enjoy a promenade. Just behind the seafront, Korzo is the very heart of the town, and there’s no way you should miss a stroll, an espresso and a spot of people-watching here.QC/D‑2, Korzo.

THE CROATIAN NATIONAL THEATRE IVAN THE NOBLE ZAJC (HRVATSKO NARODNO KAZALIŠTE IVAN PL. ZAJC) This is one of the proofs that Rijeka is where Central Europe meets the Mediterranean. The National Theatre in Rijeka was largely the work of Fellner and Helmer, a Viennese architectural studio specialising in theatre design, responsible for, among others, the Prague State Opera and the colonnade and Grand Hotel Pupp in the Czech spa Karlovy Vary. When the theatre opened in 1885, it was lit by the first electric lightbulb in Rijeka. During June and July, the theatre hosts a Summer Nights festival. If you can get a ticket, it’s worth it even if only to catch a glimpse of the ceiling paintings by Gustav Klimt, and the stage curtain painted by Oton Gliha, a Croatian artist who lived on and was inspired by the landscape of Krk Island. In the newlylandscaped park in front of the theatre stands a memorial to Rijeka’s composer Ivan Zajc, one of the most important contributors to the development of classical music in Croatia. If you want to be sure of getting to see the theatre, then be aware that sightseeing tours are available by prior arrangement, costing €3 per person.QE‑3, Uljarska 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 71 14/(+385-51) 35 59 07, www.hnkzajc.hr. Box office open 08:00 - 14:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. Open two hours before the show in Rijeka, and one hour before in Sušak. From July 26 (Rijeka Summer Nights) Open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TRSAT Perched on a hill overlooking the harbour area and keeping watch over the hinterland is the fortress Trsat, which has stood guard over the city since Illyrian times. Trsat is the site of the first settlement of Rijeka, inhabited since prehistoric times. It’s one of the best known symbols of the city. You may also notice from a distance the elegant spire of a white church. Trsat is a complex comprising the fortress and church, a Franciscan monastery, a smaller church, a sports hall and exhibition centre (where many concerts are held), landscaped park gardens and a charming huddle of houses. It’s a serene place to linger over a coffee, and the ecclesiastical heart of Rijeka. The church, St Mary of Trsat, has been a shrine to the Virgin Mary and a place of pilgrimage for hundreds of years. The story goes that when, at the end of the 13th century, the Crusaders were taking Mary’s house from Nazareth to Loretto, where they would set it up as a pilgrim shrine, they stopped and rested at Trsat. A church was then built on the site by the Frankopans (who played a large role in the entire development of Trsat), which became a place of pilgrimage. The church contains a great number of renowned religious 34 Rijeka In Your Pocket

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives, Photonet

paintings and a 14th century icon of Our Lady, reputed to be miraculous. It was presented to Croatian pilgrims in Loretto, and is venerated to this day. For more on the church and its sacral art collection see below. The fort has had many facelifts over the centuries, notably by local influential families, the Frankopans of Krk, the Captains of Bakar and the Hapsburgs. The last and most romantic alterations were made by Irish-born Count Laval Nugent, a commander of the Austro-Hungarian empire, who eventually made his home here and established a museum. Sadly, the museum no longer exists. There are attractive underground spaces (one of which once housed prison cells) which are now used as exhibition spaces, and apparently a secret passageway leads to the Rječina river. The Grecian style Nugent family mausoleum is also now a gallery space. The fort is well worth visiting for its architectural beauty and the stunning views over Rijeka and the Kvarner Gulf. It’s part of a chain of defences across the mountains that protected the Roman Empire from barbarian invasion.

You can reach Trsat using the 16th century stairs of Captain Petar Kružić – the traditional route for pilgrims. Before you start complaining, pilgrims often climb them on their knees as a mark of devotion. But if it’s hot or you’re feeling parky, you can also reach Trsat by road from the east of the centre, or take bus No.2.QS‑1.

CHURCHES THE CAPUCHIN CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF LOURDES (KAPUCINSKA CRKVA GOSPE LURDSKE) The grand neo-gothic edifice in red and white brick on the Žabica square, with two sweeping staircases leading to an upper level, is the church of Rijeka’s Capuchin order. Buildrijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing THE CHURCH OF ST MARY OF THE ASSUMPTION AND THE LEANING TOWER (CRKVA UZNESENJA BLAŽENE DJEVICE MARIJE I KOSI TORANJ) Another site once at the heart of Tarsatica, as the nearby remains of Roman spas testify. St Mary of the Assumption dates back to the Middle Ages, and has since then undergone many phases of rebuilding and adding to, resulting in a right old mix of styles, but not changing the fact that this is a much-loved place of worship. This was once the main church of Rijeka, locals still call it Vela Crikva, or “The Big Church”, while they call its tower kosi toranj, or “the leaning tower” because it’s out of true by 40cm. St Mary’s interior is full of beautiful baroque stuccowork, including the ceilings. This is a good church to attend if you want to get the feel of a local mass: July 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; August 19:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 19:00; rest of the year Mon - Fri 08:00, 18:00, Sat 08:00, Sun 08:00, 10:00, 18:00.

QE‑2, Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3, tel. (+385-51) 21 41 77.

Open 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:30, Sat 08:00 - 12:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00. July Open 08:00 - 12:00.

ing started in 1904 and the lower level was completed four years later. The Capuchins were running out of money for the next phase, and apparently someone devised a cunning plan to continue building. Some luckless lady was heralded as a miraculous saint who sweated blood. Of course, people were clamouring to part with their hardearned money to see this freak show, so the church got its upper part, completed in 1929. Meanwhile, the miraculous “saint” got a jail sentence. Despite this colourful story, the church never got the bell tower originally planned, but it’s an imposing piece of architecture anyway, and the landing at the top of the staircases is a good spot to get a view over the city centre and the port in front of you. Mass: 07:30 and 19:00, Sun 07:30, 10:00, 12:00 and 19:00.QB‑2, Kapucin‑ ske stube 5, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 89. Open 08:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 19:30.

THE CHURCH OF ST JEROME AND DOMINICAN MONASTERY (CRKVA SV. JERONIMA I DOMINIKANSKI SAMOSTAN) A fine baroque church on the grand Municipium square.

It was originally part of an Augustinian monastery complex built by one of Rijeka’s noble families the Counts of Devin, and which later passed over to relations in the House of Walsee – members of both dynasties are buried here. Founded in 1315 and completed in 1396, St Jerome’s was originally gothic in style but suffered the same fate as many others in the earthquake of 1750, and was rebuilt in the baroque style which you see today. Next to St Jerome’s is the Chapel of the Holy Trinity, which is a fine example of Alpine gothic architecture. The monastery now houses a Dominican order of monks. Mass: 08:00, 18:30, Sun 08:00, 09:00, 11:30, 18:30.QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 53 20. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 18:00. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

THE CHURCH OF ST SEBASTIAN (CRKVA SV. SEBASTIJANA) Some say that the forebear of this little renaissance church was built in 1291, at the time of plague, as an offering to St Sebastian, saint and protector against pestilence. The church was built in its present incarnation in 1562. This part of the city was the heart of ancient Tarsatica - Roman walls dating back to the 4th century have been excavated.

Readers may like to know that apart from plague, St Sebastian is the patron saint of Spanish policemen, diseased cattle, racquet makers, Pontifical Swiss Guards and enemies of religion. So, Godless heathens, even you have a patron saint. There is no escape. Tremble in almighty awe!

The rosary is said in Italian every day at 18:00.QD‑2, Marka Marulića bb.

THE ORTHODOX CHURCH OF ST NICHOLAS (PRAVOSLAVNA CRKVA SV. NIKOLE) Rijeka has for many years had a Serbian Orthodox community, who were traditionally wealthy. The story goes that the governor of Rijeka got so annoyed with their pleas for a church that he threw a stone into the sea, saying “There!

That’s where you can build your church!” The industrious Serbs got busy filling in the land in front of the Clock Tower on Korzo, and built their church where the stone had landed. So, is it thanks to them that we have the Riva and the harbour? Probably this story has no more than a grain of truth in it, but the tale is certainly picturesque. The church has a collection of 18th century icons from Vojvodina in Serbia and Bosnia. Divine Liturgy: 08:00 and 18:00, Sat and Sun 09:00 and 18:00.QD‑2, Ignacija Henckea 2, tel. (+385-51) 33 53 99. Open 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 18:30.

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Sightseeing FOUNTAINS THE JADRANSKI TRG FOUNTAIN (FONTANA JADRANSKI TRG) Two squarish, hexagonal structures in pink marble form a favourite sitting, meeting and chatting place at the beginning of the Korzo promenade, and a circus ring for the skateboarders to be found wherever that tantalising combination of paving slabs and steps exists. Jets arranged around the edge squirt in and make an almighty and soothing noise.QC‑2, Jadranski trg.

THE KAWASAKI FOUNTAIN (FONTANA KAWASAKI) Kawasaki? Motorbikes? Yes indeed, this lovely fountain has as a centrepiece a sculpture of two children and a bird, presented to the city of Rijeka in 1988 by the Japanese city of Kawasaki as a gift, an enduring symbol of friendship.

Surrounded by greenery and flowers, it has become a favourite meeting point for young people, for whom it was particularly intended, who often choose it as the place to celebrate New Year, graduation and other momentous occasions.QE‑2, Jelačićev trg.

THE KORZO FOUNTAIN (FONTANA KORZO) Made in 1996, this is a modern sculpture shaped like a silver cylinder quietly brimming over with water. The small “source” at the centre is meant to remind us of the many natural springs to be found in Rijeka and the lands below Mount Učka and the Velebit range.QD‑2, Korzo.

THE OLD PAPER MILLSTONES (STARI KOLODROB) A perfect symbol of the interplay between Rijeka’s industrial heritage and water: together fundamental elements of the city’s identity. Two millstones, complete with their original machinery, which were once used in the city’s first paper mill (see “Industrial Rijeka” ) form the centrepiece, and water streams in intriguing formations over the toothed edges of the gears and cogs. “Let a tool of work become a source of joy” reads the inscription: the paper mill presented the fountain to the city in honour of its many workers on the occasion of the mill’s 150th anniversary.QD‑2, Koblerov trg.

THE PUBLIC DRINKING FOUNTAIN (JAVNA SLAVINA) Just opposite the train station, this unusual, conical drinking fountain with its constant flow of water was built in 1997 to provide thirsty travellers with a cool, refreshing drink, and to replace one which stood here for years, since 1873.QA‑2, Krešimirova.

HISTORICAL AREAS CALVARY 17-18 CENTURY (RIJEČKA KALVARIJA IZ 17-18. ST.) Just north of St Vitus Church is a path named Kalvarija Rijeka’s Calvary. Rijeka’s once influential Jesuit community was peeved at all the attention drawn by the Franciscan’s pilgrim shrine at Trsat, and this was their attempt to catch a 36 Rijeka In Your Pocket

little glory (17-18th centuries). The path leads to steps, and if you’re man enough for the long walk to the top, you’ll see the baroque remains of shrines along the way. There were once shrines at the top, but little remains of them except a few sculptures. Among the high-rise blocks of flats you can see remains of 4th century stone walls, from the time when this hilltop was part of the defensive system of the Holy Roman Empire. From here a path leads to the Kozala cemetery with its modernist votive chapel, and art nouveau and historicist family mausoleums and sculptures. It’s a pleasant walk – if a little demanding in the hot sun - and gives you the opportunity to see some fine villas in the residential areas in the hills north of the centre.QE‑1, Kalvarija.

REMAINS OF THE 4THC ROMAN PRAETORIUM (KASNOANTIČKI KASTRUM 4ST.) Behind St Sebastian’s Church is a rectangular section of ancient walls, surrounded by greenery, where some thoughtful soul has placed benches where you may sit and ponder your insignificance relative to the march of time, for this was once part of a Roman military command centre in ancient Tarsatica, from which the defensive chain of forts that lie in the hills behind were managed.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

THE FORT OF THE HOLY CROSS (GRADINA SV. KRIŽ) Perched above Rijeka in the neighbourhood of Gornja Vežica east of Trsat, this fort is part of a chain of defences originating from prehistoric times which guarded the coastal area from invasion by barbarian hordes from inland Europe. There’s a 15th century votive church next to the fort, as well as Rijeka’s Planetarium (see Landmarks).

Because of the historical, natural and cultural value of this spot, a scientific trail is planned which will be open to students and tourists alike. A group of schoolchildren were on a trip here in December 2004, and one bright young chap, Antonio Torre, spotted an interesting-looking clay slab. It has turned out to be one of the oldest examples of Glagolitic script ever found in the area (13th century). Visit, enjoy the spectacular view over Rijeka and Kvarner - and keep your eyes peeled!QT‑2, Sveti križ.

THE OLD CITY (STARI GRAD) The centre of Rijeka once looked very different. The buildings on the north side of Korzo were, for example, on the seafront until the eighteenth century. And behind Korzo are the ruins of the ancient walled city of Tarsatica, which lay on the site of the present-day heart of Rijeka, roughly enclosed by Korzo to the south, Žrtava fašizma to the north, Starčevićeva to the east and Erazma Barčića to the west. Because of lack of space and the needs to modernise the town, providing it with transport and water systems, much of the old city was pulled down, but you can still see a few remains. There’s an old and atmospheric part of town where sections of the city walls are preserved in the area around St Vitus’ and St Sebastian’s and around the Judicial Palace, a Roman gate and an excavation site north of Trg Ivana Koblera. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives, Photonet, Photo by Valter Stojšić

INDUSTRIAL RIJEKA THE PAPER MILL (TVORNICA PAPIRA) Not far from the city centre, on the banks of the Rječina is a disused factory. It once employed over 1000 people and produced thousands of tons of fine cigarette paper, exported all over the world. Founded in 1823, it was one of the most successful industries of both the former Yugoslavia and Austro-Hungarian empire. It was founded

by Andrije Ljudevit Adamić, father of the Šimun with his witnesses (see above). In 1829, he sold it to a pair of entrepreneurs from France and England who installed the first steam engine in southeast Europe in 1833. In 1991, the factory was the second largest manufacturer of cigarette paper in Europe, and had won many awards – see the medals in the City Museum. The industry was devastated by war and economic and political changes, and the company went bankrupt in 2002, leaving many jobless. Since the buildings are so important to Rijeka’s development and the industrial history of Europe, there are moves to preserve and perhaps convert them into a cultural centre: there are already concerts and parties being held in “Tvornica papira Hartera”.QF‑1, Ružićeva bb.

THE SHIPYARDS (BRODOGRADILIŠTE) Driving past the train station towards Opatija, you’ll see signposts pointing to “3 Maj”. These are Rijeka’s biggest shipyards, once the largest in the entire former Yugoslavia. They’re named after the date of the liberation of Rijeka during WWII (3 May 1945), but there has been shipbuilding going on here since 1905. In the late 80’s, the Yugoslav shipbuilding industry was so strong that over half its output was exported, contributing billions of dollars to the economy. 3 Maj has produced all kinds of exciting facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

stuff over the years, including battleships and submarines.

Nowadays, trying to do battle in a modern marketplace, they’re also using their expertise with metal in areas like construction and waste management. An even older yard, Viktor Lenac, is having a harder time recovering from the war years, but still works specialising in ship repairs, conversions and offshore work like laying pipelines and building oil rigs – the oil industry is another important part of the economy of the Kvarner region.QL‑3, Liburnijska 3.

THE SUGAR REFINERY (TVORNICA ŠEĆERA) A sugar refinery was built near Rijeka’s train station in 1754, by decree of Austrian Duchess Maria Theresa. It supplied the entire Austrian Empire with sugar (it was its biggest), and more than 600 workers were employed here. It was one of the first factories which kick-started the industrial development of the city. After a fire (mmm! caramel!) in 1785, the building had to be largely rebuilt, and this fine palace was decorated with unusual medallions with Chinese motifs and baroque and rococo elements. The inside is also exceptionally decorative, featuring unexpectedly sensual murals of bathing goddesses.QA‑1, Ulica Petra Krešimira IV. THE TORPEDO FACTORY (TVORNICA TORPEDA) Did you know that the torpedo was invented in Rijeka?

Maybe not a great thing to brag about inventing weapons of moderate destruction, but the story goes like this.

One Ivan Luppis, a resident of Rijeka and retired naval officer, was thinking about how to defend the coastline at long range. He came up with the idea of what he called “the coastal saviour”, but had neither the technical background nor physical means to make the idea a reality. He heard about a British engineer, Robert Whitehead, who Summer 2017

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Sightseeing was manager of a steam ship manufacturing company in Rijeka. They put their heads together, and came up with the prototype “torpedo”, as Whitehead called it. The first tests were made in 1866. By 1943, the factory in western Rijeka reached its peak output of 160 torpedos a month, and Rijeka had gained a reputation for high-technology engineering. The company went bankrupt in the 1990s, but plans are now afoot to restore historic parts of the factory (such as the torpedo launching ramp) as an industrial heritage monument, relocate the city fish market here and create a new shopping and leisure zone in the western outskirts. Sounds great to us… By the way, the imposing building next to the Capuchin church (by the coach station), the so-called Ploech Palace, was the home of Annibale Ploech, a chief engineer and shareholder in the torpedo company, and his wife – Whitehead’s daughter.

QM‑3, Jože Vlahovića 19.

TRAIN STATION (ŽELJEZNIČKI KOLODVOR) The elegant, low-lying classical form of the train station is important to Industrial Rijeka not only for its architectural value, but also since its building heralded a boom in trade for the growing port, connecting it with nearby Ljubljana, Karlovac and Zagreb, and Vienna and Budapest in the heart of the mighty empire beyond. Built by Budapest architect Ferenc Pfaff in 1889 and opened in 1891, there is a story (not true) told by the people of Füzesabony in Hungary that the plans for the stations in that city and Rijeka were mixed up, so Rijeka got the better one. Pfaff built 14 stations in the Hungarian lands, and all those which survive today are listed buildings.QA‑2, Petra Krešimira 5.

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives, Photonet, Photo by Valter Stojšić

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LANDMARKS ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK The newly renovated Archaeological Park has opened in 2014 in Rijeka’s Old Town, at Julije Klović Square. It is an amazing site that shows the ancient history of the city of Rijeka and holds the remains of the Tarsatic Principia, the 3rd century Roman military command that used to be a part of the Roman defence system. The remains of its monumental main entrance, paved central courtyard, and basilica are a jewel of Roman history.QD‑2, Trg Jurja Klović.

HURRICANE! Or, Uragan… is the name of the big old ship that looms in the dock by the Port Authority building (opposite the coach station). She started life in 19th century Hamburg, where she worked as a cleaner in the harbour until she was conscripted by the German army. Granted to the Yugoslav army as part of war reparations, she then undertook technical duties along the Adriatic coast, including the development of the Port of Rijeka, as well as acting in films including “Around the World in 80 Days” and “The Winds of War”. After a long and active life, she sank in the Rijeka harbour in 1999 due to a worn-out hull. A team of enthusiasts sponsored by the Port of Rijeka Authority oversaw Uragan’s repair, and she was given a permanent resting place here in summer 2005.

ISLAMIC CENTER RIJEKA The third mosque in Croatia is located in Rijeka, in Zamet, the western part of the city. This is a building of high international artistic relevance designed by the famous late sculptor Dušan Džamonja, in collaboration with architects Darko Vlahović and Branko Vučinović. It is located on a hillside, from where the slopes of the nearby Učka mountain and islands of the Rijeka region can be viewed. The complex has been built on a plot of 10,800 square metres and has four levels: a gallery, ground floor and two floors. The facility, which is spread over 3,074 m2 and features a congress centre, which will be named after the Emir of Qatar, a restaurant, apartments and guest rooms and an underground car park. Prayers in the building can accommodate up to 1,400 people, whilst the minaret is 23 metres high.

Well worth a visit to check out the extraordinary architecture.QAnte Mandića 50, tel. (+385-51) 31 70 59, www. medzlis-rijeka.org.

MEMORIAL BRIDGE TO RIJEKA’S SOLDIERS (MOST HRVATSKIH BRANITELJA) A striking modern bridge, erected in 2002 in honour of the soldiers who fought in the recent war. Simple in metal and glass, it contrasts with the Imperial architecture around it, yet is in harmony with the industrial port area nearby, and with Rijeka’s spirit as a young and innovative city. As with many examples of modern architecture, there was an almighty “What the hell is that?” type furore over its opening, yet the Zagreb-based architects Studio 3LHD recently won an award from the London “Architectural Review”. As rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing you cross the bridge heading away from the city, notice the symbolism of the passage of the nation into a new and independent future. As you cross back into the city, make sure you watch the traffic!QE‑2, Uskočka riva.

PORT OF RIJEKA (RIJEČKA LUKA) The Port of Rijeka was founded in 1717 by the Austrian monarch Charles VI. Over the years, railway lines were built connecting the port with the large cities of the Austro-Hungarian empire, and trade boomed. By the late 19th century Rijeka was the main port for the transport of goods to Hungary, and in 1913, Rijeka ranked among the top ten European seaports by volume. War then wreaked havoc over Rijeka’s fortunes. The First World War stopped the international transport of goods by sea. After the war, the Treaty of Rapallo handed the port of Rijeka to Italy, while Sušak, the suburb immediately to the east, became part of the short-lived Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. The city was effectively split in two. During the Second World War, much of Rijeka’s harbour was destroyed.

Rebuilding took place after 1945, focusing on the construction of facilities for the transport of specialised goods: oil, crops, bulk cargo, liquid cargo and containers. By 1980, Rijeka was handling over 20 million tons of cargo per year.

War hit the Adriatic again in the 1990s. Although the northern Adriatic was not directly affected by the conflict, it was damaging enough to shipping and industry to divert part of the trade to the neighbouring ports of Koper (Slovenia) and Trieste (Italy). Shipbuilding, Rijeka’s other important industry, went into steep decline. However, since the end of the war, the shipping industry has been getting back on its feet, and the yearly turnover of shipped goods has enjoyed steady growth. Rijeka’s location is extremely favourable. Strategically, Rijeka has a long-standing transport connection with the countries of Central Europe, with a direct link to Budapest. It’s an ideal point for the import and export of goods between the Mediterranean and Hungary and the countries that lie around it: Austria, Slovakia, the Czech Republic, southern Germany and Poland, western Ukraine and more.QD‑3.

RIJEKA’S BRIDGES (RIJEČKI MOSTOVI) “Rijeka” means “river”, and the city didn’t get its name by chance – many waters sourcing in those mountains you see there wind their way through the city, underground and overground. The Rječina is the big sister of all of these.

Downtown Rijeka lies west of the river, and east is the old neighbourhood Sušak (once a separate town, and at one time in a separate country), the dockland Brajdica and Pećine. The mouth of the Rječina provided shelter for seafarers since before Roman times. When the port was developed, the Rječina was diverted, leaving its original course abandoned – you’ll see it on the map marked as “Mrtvi kanal” – “Dead canal”. In the middle of these is an area called Delta, where there’s a pleasant park, with its bandstand and café. The two sides are connected by bridges. Just in front of the Hotel Continental is the bridge where you’ll find a statue of the writer Kamov (see Landmarks) leaning against the railings. Further south, you’ll facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives, Photonet, Photo by Valter Stojšić

spot the brand new bridge built as a monument to the soldiers who defended Croatia in the recent war (see Landmarks). Fans of WW II history may also be interested to see the plaque commemorating Rijeka’s liberation from fascist rule by Tito’s partizans.QF‑1/2, E‑2.

SUŠAK - PEĆINE The neighbourhood of Sušak that lies across the river was once a separate settlement. It got its name from the Croatian verb sušiti – “to dry”, since once upon a time there were large areas used for drying the laundry washed in the many springs here. The coming of the railway brought wealth and expansion, and a host of fine buildings and palaces grew up and today line the bank on the east side of the Rječina. The area of land between the centre of Rijeka and Sušak, called the Delta, was the dividing line between two states between the World Wars. Rijeka fell under the jurisdiction of Italy, and died a death due to competition from the larger Italian ports, while Sušak prospered as the main port of the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Take a walk through the atmospheric streets and you come to the neighbourhood of Pećine that lies on the shore. It was the elite residential area during AustroHungarian rule, and it’s worth a wander. The Ružić villa, where members of the political and literary families Ružić and Mažuranić lived, is particularly noted (Pećine no. 5).

Industrialist Đuro Ružić was responsible for building many of Sušak’s fine houses. His relative by marriage, Ivana BrlićMažuranić, was an author of much-loved children’s books.

In the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument, a beautifully illustrated English language edition of her book of fairy stories “Tales of Long Ago” is kept. You can see a beautifully illustrated edition in English translation in the family’s library, which is listed as a cultural monument.QQ/S‑3/4.

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Sightseeing planetarium shows and observatory please call (+385 51) 45 57 00.QSveti Križ 33, tel. (+385-51) 45 57 00, www. astronomski-centar-rijeka.hr. Open 08:00 - 23:00.

Closed Mon, Sun. Admission 20/10 kn.

THE RIJEKA TUNNEL Military turmoil leading up to World War II saw the construction of fortifications, bunkers and tunnels in Rijeka.

Now, the first military tunnel has opened for visitors with the entrance next to the Cathedral of St. Vitus and it stretches below the Old Town to the Dolac Primary School.

The 330-m long tunnel still has some original markings and was even used in the Homeland War as a shelter.QO‑ pen 09:00 - 21:00.

THE ROMAN GATE (STARA VRATA) Just above Trg Ivana Koblera is a massive and plain stone archway, the oldest structure in Rijeka, once the entry into the Roman Praetorium, the military command centre. Built onto it is an odd structure: half-church, half socialist department store, with a Hapsburg era town house added on for good measure. Go through the arch and you come to Roman excavations where you can see decorative columns, stone walls and slabs.QD‑2, Trg Julija Klovića.

The Rijeka Astronomical Center Archives

THE MILKMAID (MLJEKARICA) By the Ritz café in Užarska street, there’s a statue of an elderly lady bent under the weight of the milk churns she’s carrying. This is the statue in honour of the milkmaids from Grobnik (an area in the hills above the city). This was where the dairy cows that gave the people of Rijeka their daily “pinta” were kept and milked, and the milk was carried down by fair maidens as you see here. Grobnik is still famous for it’s cheese – grobnički sir – try it if you see it on the menu.QE‑2, Užarska.

THE RIJEKA ASTRONOMICAL CENTER (ASTRONOMSKI CENTAR RIJEKA) Star gazers and those passionate about astronomy look no further as you’re about to enter the first astronomical center in Croatia. As it is positioned in the city, up on the hill of Sveti Križ, getting there by public transport is easy and available via bus line 7a from the city centre (Delta).

It is set in a building built in 1941 as a military fortress.

Subsequently, in 2001, Rijeka’s first observatory was established. A planetarium hall was installed into an already existing fortress in 2009. The Astronomical Center Rijeka now encompasses an observatory, planetarium and other additional contents for learning more about astronomy.

During summer, every Wednesday at 20:30 there is a special program for foreign tourists in English language and stargazing with the telescope in observatory every Saturday at 22:00. For detailed opening times and schedule of 40 Rijeka In Your Pocket

THE STATUE OF KAMOV (JANKO POLIĆ KAMOV) On the bridge leading to the Hotel Continental, there’s a statue of a man sitting on the railings – a scarily lifelike pose. This is Janko Polić Kamov, an avant-garde writer infamous for his eroticism, sarcasm and social satire, still much-read today. He was born in Sušak in 1886 and died in Barcelona in 1910 at the age of 24.QF‑1, Titov trg.

MUSEUMS CITY MUSEUM OF RIJEKA (MUZEJ GRADA RIJEKE) Housed in a purpose-built, cube-like space (1976) in the gardens of the Governor’s Palace. As well as themes and personalities from the city’s past, the museum presents lectures and exhibitions on subjects of global interest.

QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 10 92, www. muzej-rijeka.hr. Open June - September 30 10:00 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. October - May 31 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Admission 15/10kn.

MODERN AND CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUM (MUZEJ MODERNE I SUVREMENE UMJETNOSTI) Here, enter the world of contemporary Croatian and foreign art, and works by local and young artists. Due to lack of space, there is no permanent exhibition, but temporary ones are held both here and in the Mali Salon on Korzo.

QC‑2, Dolac 1/II, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu. hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:00 or depending on the exhibition. Closed Mon. Admission depending on the exhibition.

www.inyourpocket.com rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Sightseeing PEEK&POKE - CHILDHOOD MUSEUM (PEEK&POKE - MUZEJ DJETINJSTVA) Turning back the time, see over 600 exhibits of childhood games, books and toys thematically divided in a stroll down memory lane for many visitors. Toys that came from all decades and all walks of life reignite the changes in our world with the oldest toy dating to 1902 and one child’s scrapbook from 1897.QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2, tel. (+385-) 091 780 57 09, www.muzejdjetinjstva.com.

Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior ar‑ rangement. Admission 30kn.

PEEK&POKE - COMPUTER MUSEUM Hands up if you love PCs! Then why not take this opportunity to visit a rare museum of computer technology?

Poised near the Nikola Host Park and behind Saint Vitus Cathedral, there are over 1000 samples of early calculators, games consoles, and computers spread across two levels.

In addition, different events, workshops, play rooms, seminars, and concerts are often on the go...fun indeed! And if you need to access the net, there are 2 computers available to visitors at a cost of 15kn per hour. Also, don’t miss a chance to ride a Pony, the most sold bicycle in the former Yugoslavia and still loved by people today (5kn per hour), or perhaps an electric car from 1984 (40kn per hour) is more to your liking!QE‑1, Ivana Grohovca 2b, tel. (+385-) 091 780 57 09, www.peekpoke.hr. Open 14:00 - 20:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00, Sun by prior arrangement. Admission 30kn.

THE MARITIME AND HISTORY MUSEUM OF THE CROATIAN LITTORAL (POMORSKI I POVIJESNI MUZEJ HRVATSKOG PRIMORJA) One of Rijeka’s important landmarks is the Maritime and Historical Museum which is located in one of the most beautiful buildings from 19th century Rijeka. A former palace, it was originally designed and built as the residence for king’s emissaries and governors. Today it is a Museum which collects, keeps, handles and presents artefacts connected to the history and culture of the Primorskogoranska County and the city of Rijeka, starting with the first settlers in pre-historical times through to the 20th century. Divided into categories, the museum’s collection contains the Archaeological Department with pre-historical, Greek, Roman, medieval and numismatic collections.

For those fascinated by aquatic forms of transport, the History of Maritime Department consists of historical reconstructions of ships, ship equipment, nautical instruments, maps, pictures and prints as well as material from the Ethnographical, Cultural and Historical Departments.QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1, tel. (+385-51) 21 35 78/(+385-51) 55 36 66, www.ppmhp.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Mon 09:00 16:00, Sun 16:00 - 20:00. Admission 20/15kn.

THE NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM (PRIRODOSLOVNI MUZEJ) Nature lovers can study the geological history of the Adriatic Sea and the Rijeka region. The multimedia centre with its excellent aquarium gives you the opportunity to get to facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

know friendly and scary sea creatures at close quarters in conditions simulating their natural habitat. Kids will be either delighted or scared stiff by the collections of reptiles, amphibians, and insects. A botanical garden was opened in June 2005 for your pleasure in the museum grounds, which form part of the large Vladimir Nazor Park just north of the old town. It features over 2000 species native to this sub-Mediterranean deciduous zone.QD‑1, Lorenzov pro‑ laz 1, tel. (+385-51) 55 36 69, www.prirodoslovni.com.

Open 09:00 - 20:00. Admission 10/5kn.

Artist Lonac, Photo by Vedrana Spadoni Štefanić

GALLERIES BRUKETA 2 The Bruketa 2 Gallery is a new showroom for the little Bruketa gallery (Mala galerija) which also promotes gifted young and established artists and is situated over the Riječina river in the Hotel Neboder.QF‑2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, www. mala-galerija.hr. Open by prior arrangement.

KORTIL An exhibition space within the House of Culture on Sušak.QF‑2, Strossmayerova 1, tel. (+385-51) 37 70 65/(+385-51) 37 70 51. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

MALI SALON A great exhibition space for the Rijeka Museum of Contemporary and Modern Art on Korzo.QD‑2, Korzo 24, tel. (+385-51) 49 26 11, www.mmsu.hr. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sat and Sun 11:00 - 14:00, 18:00 - 21:00. Or depending on the exhibition. Closed Mon. Admis‑ sion free.

PRINCIPIJ GALLERY QE‑2, Pod voltun 4, tel. (+385-) 095 913 17 69, www. fotoklubrijeka.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Admission free.

TRSATSKI KAŠTEL Permanent exhibition A Century of Trsatska Gradina.

QU‑1, Partizanski put 9a, tel. (+385-51) 21 77 14.

Open June - September 30 09:00 - 20:00. October - May 31 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 10/5kn.

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Sightseeing PALACES THE GOVERNOR’S PALACE (GUVERNEROVA PALAČA) The Governor was a representative of the Hungarian crown who was sent to boss people around in Rijeka after a deal of 1868 known as the “Rijeka Patch”, which meant Rijeka came under the authority of Budapest. The Governor, one Count Lajos Batthyany, commissioned the leading Budapest architect of the time, the aptly-named Alajos Hauszmann, who also worked on Buda Castle and the Palace of Justice in Budapest to build a palace (completed in 1893) befitting his imperial might. Sited on a hilltop commanding a view over the harbour, the splendid palace does just that. Since it houses the Maritime and History Museum of the Croatian Littoral you can see the splendid interior as well as the statue park in the grounds.

QD‑1, Muzejski trg 1.

THE JADRAN BUILDING (PALAČA ADRIA) This grand old dame occupying prime position on the waterfront is the headquarters of Jadrolinija – yup, those ferries you see in the harbour there. This palatial structure was built (in 1897) to befit the aspirations of the old Hungarian shipping company “Adria”, which numbered taking on rivals from the port of Trieste and world domination.

While they didn’t quite manage the last part, they did engage in trade around the world, bringing coffee from Rio, exotica from North Africa and shellsuits from Liverpool.

The palace’s exterior is rich in statuary – look out for the figures of a ship’s captain, helmsman, chief engineer and pilot from the dockside, while from Jadranski trg you can see female figures representing Africa, Asia, Europe and India.QC‑2, Riva.

THE JUDICIAL PALACE (SUDBENA PALAČA) Sometimes translated as the Palace of Justice, which sounds like some evil forum in space presided over by Darth Vader. It looks a bit that way too – raised above ground and approached by seemingly endless staircases, its sheer size is enough to instil fear and repentance in the most hardened criminal. It was completed in 1904, designed by the abovementioned Mr Hauszmann’s friend, Gyozo Czigler, who also built the decorative market halls in Budapest. It was built on the site of an old fortress which guarded the city walls since Roman times. Sadly, only fragments of this remain today.QE‑1, Žrtava fašizma.

1833 the city authorities began to take over the buildings for use by the local government of the growing city. The adaptations were not sensitively done, so in 1873 the influential mayor Ivan (or, in Italian, Giovanni) Ciotta - you’ll see his name everywhere - had an architect harmonise the appearance of the square. Today the buildings of the Square of the Rijeka Resolution are gracious in lemon and white, in a combination of baroque, renaissance and classical forms. The building now houses local TV station Kanal Ri and a multitude of other offices. Across the square, Trg Riječke rezolucije, is the Radio Rijeka building (you can pass through it to get to Korzo). The Rijeka Resolution referred to in the name of the square was drawn up here in 1905 as a declaration of Croat and Serb unity in the drive for autonomy, a move which eventually contributed to the formation of Yugoslavia. The National Reading Room and “Mali Salon” gallery are in here. In between, there is a stone column for the city flagpole which has a carving of St Vitus holding Rijeka protectively in his hand, and an inscription of thanks from the Emperor Maximillian in gratitude to the citizens for their loyalty during a battle against the Venetians in 1508, in which the city came under heavy fire.

QD‑2, Trg Riječke rezolucije.

THE PALAZZO (PALAČA KOMUNA) This relatively modest, baroque building served as the Town Hall from 1532, until Rijeka’s expansion demanded the city authorities move to the Municipium. The composer Ivan Zajc, after whom the National Theatre is named, was trained in music at the Philharmonic Institute which once occupied the first floor. The square in front, named after a local historian, Ivan Kobler, was once a lively piazza the centre of the city’s social, commercial and political life, and a promenade by evening. The fountain built in commemoration of the 150th anniversary of Rijeka’s paper mill (see Industrial Rijeka) makes this a pleasant place to linger in the shade.QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera.

Rijeka Tourist Board Archives, Photonet

THE MODELLO BUILDING (PALAČA MODELLO) A highly decorative building, built in 1885 by Austrian architects Fellner and Helmer, at the same time as, and as part of the same project as the National Theatre, in the style of the Viennese Ring. Its ornamental appearance belies its original function as the headquarters of a bank. Also richly decorated inside, the Modello building now houses the City Library and is the meeting place of Rijeka’s Italian community.QE‑2, Ivana Zajca.

THE MUNICIPAL PALACE (PALAČA MUNICIPIJA) Next to St Jerome’s Church once stood a large Augustinian monastery. When the Augustinians ceased to exist, in 42 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Sightseeing PARKS THE GARDENS OF OUR LADY OF TRSAT (PERIVOJ GOSPE TRSATSKE) Built within the walls of the monastery at Trsat, these terraced, landscaped gardens, first created in 1927, are a spacious, peaceful place to rest after your sightseeing expedition or pilgrimage to the shrine to St Mary at Trsat.QV‑2, Trsat.

THE MLAKA PARK (PARK MLAKA) One of the oldest and most beautiful parks in the city, it was created in 1874 to make a break between the city centre and the western suburbs, announcing to visitors the approach to the historic centre with a swathe of green.

The original huge space, watered by natural springs, was once a favourite meeting place, and is now smaller since several buildings were put up there. There’s still a lovely stretch of lawn with a stream running through it - a cool place to rest near the train station.

THE NIKOLA HOSTA PARK (PARK NIKOLE HOSTA) Once part of gardens belonging to the 18th century Androch villa, just across the street from the Judicial Palace and up the stairs. It was owned by city luminaries such as Andrija Adamić, Ivan Ciotta and eventually Archduke Joseph, who loved exotic plants and had them sent from all over the world for these gardens, which he established at the beginning of the 19th century. On rocky terrain and on several levels, the park, with its sculptures and fountains managed to achieve the look of an English garden – it’s rather lost its former splendour these days. The villa is now used by the State Archives in Rijeka. The park is named after the Austrian botanist who helped plant it – the very same who discovered the genus hosta, we suspect.QD‑1, Žrtava fašizma.

THE THEATRE PARK (KAZALIŠNI PARK) Created in a classicist-art nouveau style to be in harmony with the theatre, Modello Palace and buildings of the city market. It’s built on land reclaimed from the sea in 1875, and has just been freshly restored, replanted and brought back to its original glory. It still features 9 rose bushes of varieties appropriate to a theatre park, such as Händel, Concerto, Prima Ballerina and Maria Callas.QE‑3, Ivana Zajca.

THE VLADIMIR NAZOR PARK (PARK VLADIMIRA NAZORA) This park continues uphill from the Nikola Hosta park, and it’s here that you’ll find the Natural History Museum with its wonderful new Botanical Gardens, opened in Spring 2005. Vladimir Nazor was one of Croatia’s leading writers and poets - during WWII he joined the Partizans, then became the first president of the Croatian Parliament.QD‑1, Šetalište Vladimira Nazora.

RELIGIOUS COLLECTIONS THE COLLECTION OF ST VITUS CATHEDRAL (SAKRALNA ZBIRKA KATEDRALE SV. VIDA) The Cathedral’s interior has many wonderful works of art, but there is also a collection in the room behind the sacristy including robes worn by Jesuits during Mass; silver and gilded sculptures and utensils. The most prized possessions are a silver statue of the Virgin Mary, made in Augsburg in 1731; chalices and monstrances, and reliquaries of St Vitus, St Ignatius and St Francis Borgia made by goldsmiths in Augsburg, Vienna and Rijeka. The oldest item is a 15th century tin cross dating back to when the old church of St Vitus stood here.QE‑1, Trg Grivica 11, tel. (+385-) 091 918 78 52. Open by prior arrangement. Ad‑ mission free.

THE PERMANENT COLLECTION OF VOTIVE OFFERINGS (STALNA IZLOŽBA ZAVJETNIH DAROVA) Includes model ships, paintings and handmade objects offered to Our Lady by grateful people whose prayers have been answered.QU‑1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsat-svetiste.com.hr/. Open 06:30 - 20:00. Admission free.

THE TREASURY AND GALLERY OF OUR LADY OF TRSAT (RIZNICA I GALERIJA SVETIŠTE GOSPE TRSATSKE) The Franciscan Church of Our Lady of Trsat is the oldest, and one of the most popular shrines to the Virgin Mary in Croatia – no mean boast. It has a rich collection of religious art fitting this status. The Frankopan counts, who did so much to build the church and fortifications here, were generous donors to the collection, followed by other Croatian noble families and members of the Austro-Hungarian imperial dynasty. Treasures include the 15th century reliquary of Barbara Frankopan and a 16th century silver statue of the Mother of God. The art gallery and chapel also have wonderful collections of religious art.QU‑1, Frankopanski trg 12, tel. (+385-51) 45 29 00, www.trsatsvetiste.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission free.

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Kvarner

Dobrinj Tourist Board Archives

Kvarner NATURE’S GIFT TO UPLIFT

44 Rijeka In Your Pocket

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Kvarner Islands CRES The moment you arrive on Cres, your troubles back at home melt into the distant past. Scrub and olives contrast with white rock and give way to azure seas and blue skies.

Somehow, Cres island has been relatively unscathed by the ravages of the tourist industry, leaving both its natural environment and its towns and villages just as they should be.

Cres town is today’s capital of the island. The gothic architecture you’ll find here owes much to the island’s long connection with Venice - it was annexed to the Venetian Republic for much of the period between the year 1000 and 1797. There are a number of fine churches and palaces, one of which houses the Cres museum (Ribarska 7, tel. +385 51 57 11 27) with its collection of sculptures, icons and prehistoric and Roman artefacts. The town’s main square has been renovated, and the atmosphere there is supremely relaxing. Cres town has a large marina and a string of shingle beaches, and although it’s largely unspoilt, retains an unpretentious feel.

A short drive or boat ride to the far side of the bay of Valun brings you to the hamlet of the same name, a collection of picturesque red-roofed houses straggling up the hillside away from the water, with a wide shingle beach that’s an absolute delight to bathe from. It was here that the Valun Tablet was found - thought to be the oldest Glagolitic inscription in Croatia. There’s a simple campsite and a couple of pleasant restaurants.

If you have the opportunity to tour at all (Cres is difficult to negotiate if you don’t have your own wheels), the town of Lubenice is something you should definitely not miss. This old village’s setting on a high cliff against the backdrop of the sea is absolutely spectacular. Hundreds of metres below you, the colour of the sea against the yellow shingle beach is incredibly inviting, but the idea of the climb back up the hillside is equally off-putting for all but the most determined pleasure-seekers. Lubenice is known for hosting exhibitions of photography and for its musical evenings.

Moving south again towards the point where a short road bridge connects Cres with the island of Lošinj, you pass by beautiful freshwater Lake Vransko. It’s fenced off since it ensures the islanders’ supply of drinking water. Finally, Osor town, which once used to be the administrative centre of the island, is now a quiet stone village basking in the sunlight and its reputation as an artists’ colony. You’ll see modern sculptures adorning the streets and squares, and if you’re lucky enough will catch the summertime Osor Music Evenings. The former town hall on the main square now houses the Archeological Collection of Osor.

CRES TOURIST BOARD QCons 10, Cres, tel. (+385-51) 57 15 35, www.tzg-cres. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. June 1 - September 30 Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

KRK So close to the mainland and so easy to get to thanks to the bridge, Krk is not only the second largest Croatian island but also has one of the most developed tourist industries. Its western seaboard, along which the main artery runs from north to south, is where most larger resorts are located. Omišalj, despite the closeness of an important terminal for the shipping of oil, has a very attractive old cliffside centre, while Malinska and Njivice are much newer settlements mainly centred on tourism. It’s quite possible to spend your holidays here without realising exactly how much the island has to offer.

Krk is rich in both human and natural history. The island was once the seat of the Frankopan family – a powerful dynasty of Croatian counts and nobles who built many of the forts, churches and monasteries you’ll come across on your travels through Kvarner. Christianity arrived here in the 5th century, and has remained exceptionally strong, so the island is dotted with churches, some early Christian, others with a characteristic onion dome topping the bell tower.

The Glagolitic script brought to the Slav lands by Saints Cyril and Methodius took very firm root here, and many inscriptions of great historical significance have been unearthed, or can be seen on buildings, lending an air of the exotic with lettering which resembles a secret code written in the shape of mushrooms and cherries!

Krk Town is the island’s capital, and inside its walls is a lovely little maze of stone streets. Since there’s quite a lot to see, it’s a place to stay in or visit for a day, but be prepared for crowds in the height of summer. There’s a little beach just under the city walls, a pleasant spot to bathe.

Krk’s Cathedral of the Assumption of Mary is built on a site where a church has stood ever since the 5th century. Adjoining it is the early Romanesque Church of St Quirinus, protector of Krk. This simple church, formerly the chapel of the bishops of Krk, has an unusual cloverleaf shape on two storeys. Inside, the sacral art museum includes an impressive 14th century painting by Paolo Veneziano and a collection of silver and gold. When the cathedral’s not open, you can peep into its interior from here. The cathedral backs onto a square with a distinctive 12th century fortress with blunt forms typical of Frankopan constructions. This is the venue for summertime cultural happenings.

Close to Krk town, Punat has a large marina and the islet of Košljun lies in the sheltered bay. On the islet, the Franciscan monastery has a museum with an excellent ethnographic collection, sacral art, a library and a natural history section with some stuffed animals with too many appendages that are sure to thrill the kids. The monks run retreats, and cultural performances are also held here. It’s well worth taking a taxi boat over.

Of course, many of us head to the sea for… well, swimming! Drive through the green valley to Baška in the east, and you’ll come to a modern resort on a beautiful 2km Summer 2017

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Kvarner LOŠINJ You’ll hardly notice crossing the bridge to Lošinj, but after a while you’ll arrive in Mali Lošinj, a port of some size and the largest island settlement on the Adriatic. It has some fine villas and a lively atmosphere. The crystal waters around are excellent for diving, and from here (or indeed anywhere around Cres and Lošinj) you have a good chance of spotting a dolphin. From Mali Lošinj you can catch a passenger boat to Susak, a tiny island made entirely of sand and with an unusual culture that includes a folk costume featuring possibly the world’s first miniskirt, or to Susak’s larger neighbour Unije. Though Unije is small, and - like Susak - carless, and is for sure a good choice if you’re looking for a relaxing retreat, it has a surprising amount going on, including a festival of olive oil.

Although mali means “little” and veli means “big”, Mali Lošinj is bigger than Veli Lošinj. Veli Lošinj has a delightful fishing harbour and is lent warmth by the colourful villas built by the island’s wealthy sea captains, who imported exotic plants from their travels as gifts for their loved ones.

The villa gardens are a sight for sore eyes, and the park is an arboretum with massive tree specimens from around the world. The town was proclaimed a health resort at around the same time as Opatija, and there is still a medicinal thalassotherapy facility there today.

Kvarner Tourist Board Archives, Photonet, Photo by Barac

sweep of clean shingle and turquoise sea. The view over the mainland is stunning, and it’s a great place to swim if you don’t mind the crowds at high season.

For gastronomy, we recommend you head for Vrbnik, topping a steep hillock on the northern coast, with a tiny emerald-green harbour at its feet. In the maze of narrow streets and stairways, locals say, is the narrowest street in the world. The town is surrounded by vineyards where žlahtina, a type of wine unique to Krk, has been made for generations. Wandering through Vrbnik you have the overwhelming impression that old wine barrels lie abandoned everywhere, and the smell of wine permeates everything.

Vrbnik is blessed with a couple of very famous restaurants.

If you’re already in Vrbnik, we recommend you take a detour to the small village of Dobrinj. The vineyards soon give way to cool deciduous forests. The road winds uphill, and when you come to the village you start to think of Tuscany. The view from the lovely Church of St Stephen with its wide, stone-flagged, roofed porch encompasses the lush forests of the island interior, hillsides punctuated by dry stone walls, and the entire Kvarner Gulf. A little further north of Dobrinj is the Biserujka Cave, the only one of fifty on the island open to the public. As its roof is so close to the surface, rain water seeps through the rock and has formed incredible stalactites.

KRK TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER QJosipa Jurja Strossmayera 9, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 02 26, www.tz-krk.hr. June, September Open 08:00 21:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 22:00.

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APOXYOMENOS The island of Mali Lošinj is an attraction to tourists primarily because of its majestic bays and lush green vegetation. Now it has another formidable tourist offer in the Museum of Apoxyomenos. Apoxy who you may ask? It is home to ‘Apoxyomenos’, the bronzed statue of a young athlete founded in 1998 and at a depth of 45 meters in the vicinity of Mali Lošinj. It is an extremely well-preserved and beautifully crafted Greek work of great artistic value presumed to date back to the 2nd or 1st century BC. The Croatian Apoxyomenos is a 192cm-high statue, set on a well-preserved original plinth of a height of 10 cm. It portrays a young athlete who has just completed his bout or exercise, thus simulating a moment of relaxation, when he is about to clean his body of oil, sweat and dust (Gr. apoxyesis), and this is why it is called the Apoxyomenos.

The Kvarner Palace is home to the Museum of Apoxyomenos. The exhibition display is defined by nine scenes and transition zones shaped by time and space, and accompanied by audio background. The final room is all white with Apoxyomenos the solitary hero. Thereafter, the Kaleidoscope Room offers a resplendent lookout of various sequences from the Lošinj harbour with the use of mirrors.QRiva lošinjskih kapetana 13, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 73 42 60, www.muzejapoksiomena.hr. Open 10:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Due to the fact that tours of the museum take place in limited groups it is necessary to book exact time and date of your visit in advance at info@muzejapoksiomena.hr. Admission 115/40 kn. J MALI LOŠINJ TOURIST BOARD QPriko 42, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 15 47, www. visitlosinj.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Kvarner

RAB Sometimes stereotypes are stereotypes because they are just true. You can’t pick up a guide to Croatia without reading about how Rab is a paradise of medieval beauty set amid lush forests, with acres of wild sandy beaches to wander along hand in hand whilst wearing loose clothing that flaps around in the breeze. We tried hard to avoid the stereotypes, but Rab really is that pretty.

OK, we don’t agree so much with the sandy beach thing.

One: sand sticks on you when you put sun cream on. Two: it gets in your eyes. Three: it gets between your teeth. Four: it gets bloody everywhere. Five: it makes the water look icky.

Sandy beaches are great for non-swimmers and small children. And that’s why so many people go to them. So be prepared for the large sandy beaches around Lopar in the northern part of Rab to be crowded with slowly basting humanity. But if you’re prepared to tuck your beach towel under your arm and go for a bit of a hike, you may just come across your own personal paradise. On Rab, there’s a beach to suit everyone.

Whether you’re a fan of fine grains of silicon or not, the journey to Lopar in itself is time well spent. You’ll pass through scenery of green rolling hills that is much gentler than you generally find on Adriatic islands. On the way is a family hotel, Zlatni Zalaz (“Golden Sunset”), beautifully positioned amidst forest and conveniently facing west. Zlatni Zalaz is very active on the gastronomic scene on the island, and we highly recommend it for the chance to try local specialities facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

at excellent prices. Lopar itself, though a perfectly pleasant resort, has rather little to offer in terms of history or sightseeing or other dining opportunities.

Rab town is quite a different matter. This is where the superlatives come in. Spectacularly occupying a narrow peninsula, it’s a lovely old stone town dating back to the Middle Ages, with a fine small cathedral in pink and cream stone and a chain of four bell towers piercing the skyline.

The summer season is punctuated with historical displays of archery and knightly tournaments. In the evenings, there’s a lively social scene with a handful of good bars and a couple of clubs.

RAB TOURIST BOARD QTrg Municipium Arba 8, tel. (+385-51) 72 40 64, www. rab-visit.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00.

Photo by Martina Jajčević

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Kvarner

Opatija Riviera Tourist Board Archives, Photonet, Photo by Siniša Gulić

Opatija Riviera Many would say that the Opatija Riviera initiated Croatian tourism as a whole. Ever since the aristocracy of the Austro-Hungarian upper class saw this coastal town as a top quality resort 120 years ago, the string of settlements on the Kvarner Bay has never really looked back. At its center is Opatija, a belle-époque seaside resort clinging to the slopes of Mount Učka. To the north is the fishing village of Volosko, a picturesque huddle of houses gathered round a dainty port, while to the south lies Lovran, with its appealing mixture of medieval alleyways and art-nouveau holiday villas. As all three are situated within a mere 20-30 minute drive from Rijeka, getting around is a piece of cake.

Initially Opatija was a winter resort, catering for landlocked central Europeans in need of Mediterranean warmth and maritime air. Nowadays it is very much an all-season destination, offering neatly manicured parks, stylish cafes crammed with delicious mouth-watering sweets, traditional souvenir boutiques and Croatia’s densest concentration of top-class restaurants.

They say that location is the key – and it is evident that the key to Opatija’s success is its position at the foot of Mount Učka, which protects Opatija from the North and West with the intruding cold air, whilst the islands of Krk, Cres and Lošinj protect Opatija from the East and South as they deviate the winds that come in from the open sea.

Over the years Opatija has been labelled as the perfect getaway, a place to relax and seek leisure through its natural surroundings and tourist attractions. These days this gorgeous coastal village is undergoing something of a boom in spa and wellness tourism, with almost every hotel in the 4-to-5 star bracket now offering indoor pools, saunas, steam-baths, massage rooms, and a full range of state-ofthe-art beauty treatments. With major European centers such as Munich, Vienna and Milan located within a 500 kilometer radius, Opatija is one of the most accessible yearround health-and-lifestyle resorts in Europe.

The business sector hasn’t been forgotten as there are a multiple facilities to cater for congress tourism: the Grand Hotel Adriatic’s 600-seat auditorium has been hosting top international meetings for several decades while the Hotel Kvarner’s Kristalna dvorana (crystal room) is a near-legendary venue for high-level receptions and showbiz events.

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Opatija Riviera Tourist Board Archives, Photonet

The Ambasador, Grand Hotel 4 Opatijska Cvijeta and other local hotels are also endowed with amenities to accommodate business meetings and seminars of all numbers and sizes. Everything to suit the customers’ needs.

Volosko Volosko is the oldest of the settlements along the Opatija Riviera and it still retains its sleepy fishing-village charm, with a cluster of stone houses scrambling up the hillside above a sheltered little port. Volosko’s strong fishing tradition may help to explain why it boasts some of the best seafood restaurants in the country. A fistful of high-class eateries are clustered around the Mandrač, the sheltered inner harbour which provides moorings for small boats.

Ičići Pronounced as (itch-i-chi), this coastal town which is part of the Opatija Rivijera has a true connection to the sea and mainland. For one it has been awarded the ‘Blue Flag’ for over a decade, it also has one of the best harbours in Croatia with 283 berths and on the opposite end, Ičići is a wonder for hiking enthusiasts as there are numerous marked trails leading up to Mount Učka. Action packed sports camps are available with top quality restaurants and cafes to help wind down.

Lovran Sitting in a tiny little pocket six kilometers south of Opatija is Lovran, the most picturesque of the Riviera’s resorts, with a historic centre of medieval stone houses grouped around the fourteenth century Church of St George, and a surrounding girdle of Italianate nineteenth century villas – many of which have been renovated and now serve as guesthouses or boutique hotels. A short walk south of Lovran is the lovely cove of Medveja, the site of a crescent pebbly beach.

Kastav There’s no better way to see the entire Opatija Riviera then from Kastav, a hilltop town northwest of Rijeka. The view from the battlements of this fortified town is simply breathtaking, with Mount Učka to the right, the islands of the Kvarner Bay to the left and the coastal settlements of Volosko and Opatija in the middle distance.

OPATIJA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER QMaršala Tita 128, tel. (+385-51) 27 13 10, www. visitopatija.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Kvarner once important centres during feudal times, and all have incredible castles. If you drive, bike or hike through the Wine Valley, you’ll be well rewarded.

Monty’s dog beach, Crikvenica Tourist Board Archives

Primorje CRIKVENICA Candy-coloured buildings line the promenade along the seashore - a mix of 50s, art nouveau and imperial architecture. There’s a feeling common to seaside towns around the world: a little commercial, perhaps seen better days.

Crikvenica developed on the heels of the rising star of Opatija as tourists travelled and discovered the rest of the coast. Crikvenica was also declared a health resort: the former monastery where Hotel Kaštel now stands (and which gave the town its name – crikva means “church” in local dialect) was at one time a childrens’ convalescent home. A thalassotherapy centre specialising in rheumatic and respiratory disorders was established here in 1895. However, Crikvenica never become as fashionable – nor as expensive – as Opatija. The reasonably priced hotels combined with the large pebble and shingle beaches have made this a hugely popular resort today, and a great destination for families with kids. One beach close to the centre includes an enclosed play area with all kinds of bouncy attractions for children (there is a small charge for entry).

Crikvenica’s old centre makes for a pleasant stroll. See the monument made from an old olive mill stone in use until 1893, take a walk along the stream and through the gardens surrounding the monastery. The Aquarium (Vinodolska 8, tel. +385 51 24 10 06, Open 10:00 - 20:00.

July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 40/30kn) is beautifully laid out and really fascinating.

Nearby Selce is a small port a little further south, rather similar in character as a resort, with good beaches and plenty of sports and entertainment opportunities. Both resorts are just a short hop from the highway from Rijeka.

CRIKVENICA TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER QTrg Stjepana Radića 1c, tel. (+385-51) 24 10 51, www. rivieracrikvenica.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

NOVI VINODOLSKI This ancient town lies at the southern end of the Vinodol valley - literally “Wine Valley” - a fertile rural area dotted with fortified settlements founded in prehistoric times, protecting the coastal strip from barbarian invasion. The towns of Drivenik, Grižane and Bribir which lie along the valley were facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

You can see Novi Vinodolski’s spindly bell tower crowning the hilltop from miles around. Wandering through the tight and sometimes dank muddle of streets, you feel how it must have been to shelter from the harsh north winds and the marauders that threatened from inland. The bell tower belongs to the Parish Church of St Philip and Jacob -a country-style church with a lovely square where you can look out over the islands. The town was protected by a Frankopan fortress, where the Vinodol code was written an important legal document protecting the rights of commoners from feudal lords, written in the Glagolitic script and dating back to 1288. Though it has charm, Novi could do with a bit of sprucing up, but the rather special people compensate for this. Somewhat coarse, but definitely spirited, they’re the type you can have a good drink and a good laugh with - maybe that’s why Vinodol’s summer carnival is so popular. Novi is a simple place, ideal if you don’t like commercialised resorts.

NOVI VINODOLSKI TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER QKralja Tomislava 6, tel. (+385-51) 79 20 32, www. tz-novi-vinodolski.hr. June, September Open 08:00 19:00. July, August Open 08:00 - 21:00.

THE MEMORIAL CENTRE LIPA REMEMBERS THE MEMORIAL CENTRE LIPA REMEMBERS (MEMORIJALNI CENTAR LIPA PAMTI) In April, 2015, the Memorial Centre ‘Lipa Remembers’ opened its doors to the public for the very first time.

Lipa, is a picturesque village of the Liburnian settlement Kras which is situated 27 kilometres from Rijeka. The Memorial Centre is dedicated to a massacre which took place on April 30, 1944 when, after only a few hours, Lipa lost 269 of its residents, mostly elderly women and children. The crime was committed by Nazis and fascists within the Braunschweig offensive, a campaign aimed at wiping out partisan gangs. The killing of civilians was accompanied by the theft of their property, and then the arson of most residential and commercial buildings. By the end of World War II, the town’s surviving inhabitants had no home to return to, a tragic scene to say the least. An arduous and painstaking restoration of the village began marked by a huge sense of loss. Today, Lipa lives and remembers with its attractive and modern memorial museum of World War II. It’s a way of paying homage to its forefathers and never forgetting the past. The Centre also signifies the cultural and historical heritage of Kras in the period from prehistory to the present day.QLipa 35, Šapjane, tel. (+385-51) 73 22 39, www.lipapamti. ppmhp.hr/. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Closed Mon, Tue. Summer 2017

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Health Tourism Health tourism in Croatia has a history dating back to 1868 when the Society of Hygienists was founded on the island of Hvar with the aim of building the first hotel dedicated to health and wellbeing.

Thanks to the clean, salty sea and air, the wide variety of lush vegetation, thermal waters and curative mud, the Kvarner region has for many years been a destination for people seeking to restore their health. By the end of the 19th century the resort of Opatija was already favoured by the Austro-Hungarian aristocracy as a spa town. In 1889, Opatija officially gained the status of a health resort.

Other famous health resorts at the time were Crikvenica, Veli Lošinj and Mali Lošinj, each of which was registered as a health resort in 1892. In these places the air is rich in sea salt and essential oils from native medicinal herbs, and is very beneficial for the respiratory system.

The influx of wealthy guests to the Kvarner region catalysed the development of seaside tourism as we know it today.

Today, those in search of improved health and wellbeing can find the following services here: seawater treatments (thalassotherapy), spa treatments (mineral and thermal waters), specialised hospitals, and a range of clinics, dental surgeries, and wellness centres which operate either independently or within hotels.

Health tourism has great potential for future development in this region due to the well-preserved natural environment, the attractiveness of the coast, highly-trained medical staff, medical services which meet European quality standards, prices which are significantly lower than in many other developed countries and proximity to most European capitals.

AVAILABLE TREATMENTS A wide range of treatments and programmes are available in the areas of convalescence, physical and psychological recuperation, preventative health, aesthetic treatments and more. Most guests opt for a stay at a hotel equipped with a wellness centre, with swimming pools, saunas, gyms, beauty treatments and more. There are also a number of centres offering Thalassotherapy treatments. Here, treatments are based on seawater, seaweed, salt, sand and other marine goodies. There are many private clinics and dental surgeries, as well as larger specialist hospitals which offer services to private patients as well as being part of the Croatian health insurance system.

POLIKLINIKA MEDIKOL Two floors, excellent facilities, specialised medical departments, centrally positioned. Contact via phone or email.

QO‑3, Krešimirova 42, tel. (+385-51) 68 80 30, fax (+385-51) 68 80 39, www.medikol.hr. A PRO VITA Full range of specific and general examinations, check-ups also available. Full details on website or contact via email.

QC‑2, Trpimirova 2/1, tel. (+385-51) 35 24 60, www. poliklinika-provita.hr. A ŽGALJARDIĆ COSMETIC SURGERY CENTER Hospital clinic for maxillofacial, general and plastic surgery. More info via website.QNova cesta 46b, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 27 10 65/(+385-) 098 25 80 95, www. zgaljardic.net/. A ZAMBELLI Specialising in aesthetic surgery, modern and contemporary facility. For more info contact via phone or email.

QE‑1, Žrtava fašizma 10, tel. (+385-51) 32 75 55, fax (+385-51) 32 75 56, www.mariozambelli.com. A

DENTISTS DENTAL STUDIO VUKANOVIĆ A complete list of dental services with the patients needs priority one. Contact them for more info.QK‑3, Lošinjska 16, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 60/(+385-) 091 121 63 95, www. dental-vukanovic.hr. A DENTIN - DR. JASMINKA BOČINA Private dental practice, aesthetic and conservative dentistry. More info via website.QM‑2, Kršinićeva 16/1, tel. (+385-51) 64 50 01, www.ordinacija-bocina.hr. A DENTORIUM Specialists in aesthetic implantology and prosthetics.

Website has all the information.QD‑2, Medulićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 31 51 75, www.dentorium.hr. A DENT VITALIS Centre for implantology, prosthetics and general dentistry.

All details are on their website.QO‑3, Krešimirova 60, tel. (+385-51) 68 83 80, www.dentvitalis.com. A

CLINICS & HOSPITALS

DR. BLAŠKOVIĆ Dentistry is the key as they offer complete dental services.

View their website or contact via phone or email.QR‑2, Linićeva 16, tel. (+385-51) 21 62 17, www.blaskovic. com. A

KATUNAR All-round heath care services, check-ups, tests, samples and more. Website available.QDr. Ivana Kostrenčića 10, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 78 51 32, www.poliklinikakatunar.hr. A

DR. JELUŠIĆ Centre for dental implantations, equipped with CAD/Cam tech. Visit their website or contact via email.QMatuljska cesta 1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 71 80 50, www.jelusic. com. A

MEDICO State of the art, offers specialist examinations and full diagnostics. No waiting list, contact via email.QE‑1/2, Agatićeva 8, tel. (+385-51) 26 31 09/(+385-51) 26 39 91, www.medico.hr. A

DR.KAROLINA KOKIĆ BORIĆ All dental treatments, aesthetic dental work, all ages. More info via website.QIvana Zajca 4/1, Krk, tel. (+385-51) 22 12 83/(+385-) 091 511 84 44, www.ordinacija-kokicboric.hr. A

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Health Tourism HEALTH & SPA GORDANA POŠČIĆ Physiotherapy and rehabilitation centre with monitored treatment. For more info visit their website or contact them via email.QR‑3, Drage Gervaisa 2, tel. (+385-51) 43 13 26/(+385-) 091 275 15 99, www.fizio-gp.hr. A LAURANA SPA Medical wellness centre, various therapeutic services and saunas, Kneipp showers and gym.QŠetalište Maršala Tita 19/2, Lovran, tel. (+385-51) 29 38 51, www.laurana. wellness.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. A TERME SELCE If you decide to do something for your long term health and wellbeing by enrolling in a programme at the Terme Selce medical facility, you have the option to stay in one of their comfortable on-site apartments complete with kitchenette and internet connection.Q1.prilaz Ive Lole Ribara 8, Selce, tel. (+385-51) 76 40 55/(+385-51) 76 40 76, www.terme-selce.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 14:00. Closed Sun. A THALASSOTHERAPIA CRIKVENICA Hospital specialises in the rehabilitation and treatment of respiratory organs and the locomotor system.QGajevo šetalište 21, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 40 76 66, fax (+385-51) 78 50 62, www.thalasso-ck.hr.

Thalassotherapia Opatija Archives

KALMAR IMPLANT DENTISTRY All types of dental treatment, surgery and therapy on offer.

Visit their web site.QIzviđačka 2a, tel. (+385-51) 26 23 63, www.kalmardent.hr. A PAVLIČEVIĆ - KUSTIĆ Family tradition, all dental procedures on offer. More info on their website.QPreradovićeva 4, Crikvenica, tel. (+385-51) 24 15 22/(+385-) 098 965 65 32, www. pavlicevic-kustic.hr. A RIDENT All necessary dental treatments as well as diagnostics. Feel free to contact them for more information.QM‑2, Ulica Franje Čandeka 39, tel. (+385-51) 64 89 00, www.rident. hr. A ŠKODADENT Private clinic offering full range of dental treatment. Visit their website.QM‑2, Hegedušićeva 10, tel. (+385-51) 26 37 66/(+385-) 099 471 71 12, www.skodadent.com. A

THALASSOTHERAPIA OPATIJA Health and wellness go hand in hand with Opatija and the Thalassotherapiji Medical Center has the complete package to suit almost all of your health needs. As there offer continues to expand, the center now includes the application of contemporary, aesthetic interventions ensured under the highest medical standards. It is possible to remove or alleviate almost all aesthetic flaws of the face and body and you get to stay in a lovely old Opatija villa.QMaršala Tita 188/1, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 20 26 00, www.thalassotherapia-opatija.com. Open 08:00 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

WELLNESS COMFORT ZONE SPACE BONAVIA Choose from relaxation treatments, beauty programmes, thematic bath showers and saunas, fitness.QC‑2, Dolac 4 (Grand Hotel Bonavia), tel. (+385-51) 35 79 80, www. bonavia.hr. A

SMILE STUDIO Varied dental services, cutting-edge technology. Visit their website for details.QM‑2, Bribirska 2, tel. (+385-51) 67 86 78, www.smilestudio.hr. A

COMFORT ZONE SPA & WELLNESS AURORA Mediterranean décor, luxury spas, swimming pools, facial and body treatments with autochthonous elements.

QSunčana uvala, Mali Lošinj (Hotel Aurora), tel. (+38551) 66 11 11, www.losinj-hotels.com. A

VIADENT Private dental practice offers dental diagnostics and therapy. Full details on the web or contact them via email or phone.QPetra Jurčića 2a, tel. (+385-51) 37 71 35/(+385-) 091 401 81 10, www.viadent.hr. A

FIVE ELEMENTS WELLNESS & SPA AMBASADOR Wellness with water! Numerous swimming pools, saunas, baths, massage showers, and ice fountain.QFe‑ liksa Peršića 5, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 74 38 80, www. remisens.com.

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Health Tourism FIVE ELEMENTS WELLNESS & SPA MARINA Wellness dedicated to the Earth element via audio and sensual rituals (Tibetan/Shakra). Plus beauty and sauna specials.QAleja Slatina 2, Moščenička Draga, tel. (+38551) 50 56 23, www.remisens.com.

NOVI SPA HOTELS & RESORT The largest wellness and spa centre on the Adriatic offering massages, swimming pools, fitness centre and various beauty treatments. The rejuvenation haven!QNovi Vinodolski, tel. (+385-51) 66 84 17, www.novi.hr.

ALTERNATIVE MEDICINE Many people consider alternative medicine to be an excellent supplement to conventional medical treatments. In Croatia, some 4000 therapists offer various treatments in the area of alternative medicine, although there is still no law regulating these kinds of treatments. However, there is an association of Croatian therapists in natural and spiritual healing which is engaged in raising the profile of alternative medicine in the country. On its website, www.huped. hr, you’ll find a list of qualified therapists in several branches of alternative medicine.

Homeopathy and acupuncture are the most common and widely-accepted alternative therapies in Croatia. Apart from that, you’ll find crystal therapy, herbalism, bioenergy medicine, light therapy, aromatherapy and medical and oriental massage.

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FITNESS & BEAUTY KANTRIDA Aerobics, body building, cardiofitness, massage, medical programs.QJ‑3, Istarska 33 (Kantrida Swimming pools), tel. (+385-51) 62 23 43, www.fitness.bluegym.hr. Open 08:00 - 22:30, Sat 08:00 - 20:30, Sun 16:00 - 21:00, . A SCIPION Physiotherapy, recreation and physical preparation of athletes.QMilutina Bataje 14A, Zamet, tel. (+385-51) 68 45 75, www.scipion.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

HEALTH INSURANCE AGRAMLIFE OSIGURANJE QD‑2, Riva 8, tel. (+385-51) 50 10 04, www.agramlife. hr.

CROATIA OSIGURANJE QC‑2, Korzo 39, tel. (+385-51) 20 77 77, www.crosig.hr.

UNIQA QD‑2, Korzo 11, tel. (+385-51) 35 92 00, www.uniqa.hr.

HEALTH TOURISM AGENCIES CROATIA MEDICAL TRAVEL QMaršala Tita 129, Opatija, tel. (+385-51) 34 30 59, www.croatia-medical-travel.com. Open 08:00 - 16:00.

Closed Sun. A

Hotel Admiral Opatija Archives

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Health Tourism ICING ON THE CAKE Following your treatment you will probably want to make the most of your stay. You can take full advantage of your surroundings by exploring and sightseeing, enjoying outdoor sports, and sampling the local cuisine and culture.

The region around Rijeka has a great deal to offer. One of the best exercises for anyone recuperating from medical treatment is walking in the fresh air. Around Rijeka, there are long seaside promendades connecting Opatija with its surrounding resorts, in the Crikvenica and Novi Vinodolski areas, and on the islands (Lošinj in particular has over 130km of signposted footpaths). For those feeling up to something a little more energetic, there are upland hiking and biking trails.

There are national parks and nature parks, and many other sites of great natural interest and beauty to explore. Added to that, there’s the healthy, delicious local cuisine and a range of excellent wines to sample. With all this in mind, we’ve selected a number of places which we feel are particularly worth visiting. We hope that this will help you decide how to make the best use of your free time while you are here.

FIELD TRIPS Birdwatching In this region there are several sites where you can spot birds. Perhaps the most interesting is the Griffon Vulture which nests on Cres and Krk islands. For more information, see Birdwatching Croatia.

The Dolphin Path, Lošinj island Lošinj has 130km of signposted footpaths. The best known of these is the Dolphin Path which skirts the southern part of the island. Since the waters around the island have been designated a dolphin reserve you can often catch sight of the friendly creatures swimming and at play. Thanks to the Blue World Institute for conservation (www.plavi-svijet. org), visitors can learn about dolphins at the visitors’ centre in Veli Lošinj; you can help protect the dolphins by adopting one!

Opatija Riviera Tourist Board Archives, Photonet

Journeys through Dobrinj, Dobrinj, Krk island This attractive footpath takes you through a landscape rich in vegetation, to villages where you can see the island’s authentic architecture and get a glimpse of its attractive culture. For more information, please call (+385-51) 85 21 07 or 84 83 44.

Mount Učka The forested slopes of Mount Učka offer a variety of ways to spend your free time in the open air. Učka is a nature park with 50 hiking trails and 8 mountain bike trails. The park boasts a wealth of wildlife and offers some of the best views around: you can see the entire Kvarner gulf with its islands laid out at your feet, and on a clear day the view south extends as far as the Velebit mountain range. More info on www.pp-ucka.hr.

Horse riding, Jelenje Horse lovers can enjoy riding at the Vodičajna riding club at Jelenje, just inland from Rijeka. The club has about 20 horses, more than half of which are pure-bred Arabs, warmbloods, half-breds and Haflingers. This is a great way to get to know the Grobnik region (including old Grobnik town itself with its Frankopan tower); to visit the source of the Rječina river and to explore cool wooded trails. Info: Konjički klub Vodičajna, Lukeži 11, tel. (+385-) 091 522 18 20, 091 25 58 666, www.konjickivodicajna.hr, kk.vodicajna@gmail.com.

Zeleni vir and the Vražji prolaz canyon, Skrad The Zeleni vir area is known for its unusual geological formations. The name means “Green Pool”, and refers to the emerald pool formed by a little waterfall gushing from an opening high up in a rock face. Close by there’s an inn serving mountain specialities such as trout, game, wild mushrooms and desserts made from highland blueberries.

The second attraction in this area is Vražji prolaz – or the Devil’s Pass. This is an 800m long canyon carved out of the rock by a wild, foaming stream. You can walk along galleries and bridges the whole length of the canyon, and at the end you’ll come to a cave, “Muževa hiša”, with stalagmites, stalactites and a small underground lake. Zeleni vir is near the little town of Skrad, just off the A6 motorway (Zagreb direction). See www.tz-skrad.hr.

The Frog Museum, Lokve This museum is the only one of its kind in Europe! In this upland area full of forests and streams, frogs have always played an important role in peoples’ lives. Although the less fortunate of these creatures will one day end up on someone’s dinner plate, this museum has been created by someone who has a real love for frogs and toads. Gain an insight into their secret lives, and learn about their role in the culture of the region, including literature and art. The little town of Lokve is just off the A6 motorway heading in the Zagreb direction. Info: Frog Museum (Muzej žaba), Šetalište Golubinjak 1, Lokve, tel. (+385-) 099 305 50 77. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 10kn.

Brseč, near Opatija A mediaeval town built on a 157m-high cliff overlooking the sea 20km from Opatija. The majority of buildings

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date from the 17th century, while the town’s fortifications and bell tower are from the early middle ages. From Brseč there’s a splendid view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Susak, as well as the of Sisol, southernmost peak of Mount Učka. A walking trail leads from the town direct to Sisol.

Jadranovo, near Rijeka This village south of Rijeka is known for its numerous pebbly coves and beaches, its archaeological park and the medicinal mud in the Lokvišće bay.

The Risnjak National Park, Gorski kotar Famous for its crystal-clear air, centuries-old forests and three carnivorous mammals which have their habitat here: wolf, bear and lynx. As well as exploring on foot, you can take part in game stalking, fishing and mountain biking – as well as indulging in hearty mountain cuisine. Info: Risnjak National Park, Bijela Vodica 48, Crni Lug, tel. (+385-51) 83 61 33, np-risnjak@ri.htnet.hr, www.risnjak.hr.

Lokve, Gorski kotar A village in the Gorski kotar region, this is where you’ll find the largest cave equipped for visitors in Croatia: the Golubinje cave, which is located in the forest park of the same name. The forest park is criss-crossed with footpaths which lead to the “Queen of the Forest”, a giant fir tree over 250 years old; and Paklena vrata (or Hell’s Gate), an impressive rock formation. You can also take a walk to Ledena špilja (the “Ice Cave”), where snow and ice often linger throughout the summer months. There is a restaurant at the park entrance where you can sample regional specialities. Info: www.tz-lokve.hr. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

SWIMMING Yup, you’re right! From the centre of Rijeka you can’t see too many sparkling beaches. So where do the locals go for a dip? In the city itself there are about 20 beaches which are located to the east and west with two of them even carrying the Blue Flag title - the newly arranged award winning Ploče beach ranked as the best urban local beach in Croatia and the other is Kostanj beach. These beaches vary in sizes and configuration with additional facilities, hospitality and children’s playgrounds. The grand eastern neighbourhood of Pećine has clean, rocky beaches and historic villas. Further east, in Kostrena, try the lovely Žurkovo cove. To the west of the city, the beaches spread from Kantrida across Bivio to Preluk which is perfect for windsurfers and has a great view of Opatija. Public transport will get you to all beaches and if you’re lucky enough to have a car, there is free parking in most places nearby. Bus No.1 rides towards the east to Pećine and to Bivio to the west. Bus No. 32 rides to Preluk. The Rijeka Tourist Board has brochure with maps of all beaches and their surrounding amenities which can be picked up at their offices or simply download it from the web.

KANTRIDA SWIMMING POOLS QPodkoludricu 2, tel. (+385-51) 66 66 00, www. rijekasport.hr/BazeniKantrida. Open 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 20:00 - 22:30, Wed, Fri 06:15 - 08:00, 12:30 - 15:30, 21:00 - 22:30, Sat 12:30 - 15:30, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. 10 - 20kn/day, 100 - 200kn/month.

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Shopping contributed greatly to Rijeka’s identity by offering their original souvenirs - the famous Morcić or Moretto - as well as decorative pottery, paintings, jewellery, lamps and sculptures. It is listed in all the tourist guides as “not to be missed”. The place to come and buy unique and original gifts.QE‑2, Užarska 25, tel. (+385-51) 33 54 03, www. mala-galerija.hr. Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00.

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DELICATESSEN DELIIICIJE Deliiicije is a wonderland for gourmands where you can find the most original and unique edible souvenirs such as chocolate with lavender, white-wine liqueurs and whole black truffles.QE‑2, A. Starčevića 7a, tel. (+385-51) 33 57 55, www.deliiicije.com. Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A GLIGORA Gligora is a specialised cheese factory on the island of Pag. It produces one of Croatia’s finest and most recognised cheeses.QE‑2, City Market, Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-51) 31 30 00, www.gligora.com. Open 07:00 - 14:00, Mon 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00.

Mali Neboder Archives

ANTIQUES MALI NEBODER Antique collectors ought to be delighted as this small store which is situated behind the Capuchin monastery offers numerous old books, some of which are in foreign languages, old Rijeka postcards and a whole lot more.

Take the time to find a classical bargain right here!QC‑2, Ciottina 20b, tel. (+385-51) 21 31 98, www.antikvarijatmali-neboder.hr. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Closed Sun. July 15th - August 15th Open 09:00 - 13:00, 16:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 -13:00. Closed Sun. A

KRAŠ Sweets and chocolates from one of Croatia’s favourite and longest-standing firms.QE‑2, Korzo 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 43 62, www.kras.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00, Sat 07:00 20:00. Closed Sun. A KUŠAONICA FRAJONA Frajona’s own, award-winning wines from Krk island (try the Merlot Barrique, Žlahtina or bubbly), plus a selection of international wines and champagne. You’re welcome to taste the wine - there was a bit of a party going on when we were there!QC‑2, Riva 16, tel. (+385-51) 32 13 33.

Open 08:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. A

TRITON Period furniture, unusual antiques and modern ornaments.

QF‑2, Milana Smokvine Tvrdog 2, tel. (+385-51) 37 13 77/(+385-) 091 736 15 64, www.tritonantikviteti.com.

Open 09:30 - 17:00. Sat, Sun by prior arrangement. A

PIKO A super chain of shops selling a vast array of teacakes by weight. Be a rebel and enjoy them with your coffee instead!QE‑2, Fiumara 3, tel. (+385-51) 31 50 25, www. pikrijeka.hr. Open 06:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00, Sun 07:00 - 12:00. A

ART GALLERIES

PIP Home produced honey.QE‑2, Veslarska 8a, tel. (+385-51) 21 36 35, www.pip.hr. Open 08:00 - 15:00, Sat 08:00 13:00. Closed Sun. A

LAVAL Beautiful antique furniture, art, ceramics and glassware.

QE‑3, Ivana Zajca 10a, tel. (+385-51) 21 11 33. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A MALA GALERIJA In the heart of Rijeka’s Old Town, in a 19th century building, is the little gallery of the famous arts family Bruketa.

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VINOTEKA 1 An atmospheric old shop on the market where you can pick up Croatian wine sold straight from the barrel.QE‑3, Demetrova 14a, tel. (+385-51) 21 39 24, www.blato1902. hr. Open 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. A

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Shopping MARI CRO DESIGN STUDIO If shopping is your forte then experience a store that is intended for those who look for something different and unique. Here they sell only Croatian designed clothes, shoes and accessories, and it’s a great way to support the local industry. You’re sure to find something chic and stylish as you can choose from over 15 Croatian designers.

QD‑2, Šime Ljubića 12, tel. (+385-51) 32 40 02. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. A

SHOPPING CENTRES & MALLS RI DEPARTMENT STORE QD‑2, Riva 6, tel. (+385-51) 33 72 16, www.robnakucari. hr/trgovine. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. J

ZTC Shopping Archives

GIFTS & SOUVENIRS FILATELIJA Impress the girls (or boys) with your stamp collection.

QF‑1, Križanićeva 6b, tel. (+385-51) 37 20 26, www. filatelija-rijeka.hr/. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 19:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. July, August Open 09:00 12:00. Closed Sun. N

TOWER CENTER QS‑3, Ul. Janka Polić Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 40 38 15, www.tower-center-rijeka.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.

ZTC RIJEKA QM‑2, Zvonimirova 3, tel. (+385-51) 56 10 14, www.ztcshopping.hr. Open 09:00 - 21:00. W

ŠTA DA? The name of this funky little shop that sells original and unique souvenirs comes from the famous Rijeka catchphrase Šta da? which basically means ‘Really?’ Many of the items carry the expression, thus giving it a whole new meaning.QE‑2, Užarska 14, tel. (+385-51) 58 78 97. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. A

MADE IN CROATIA BOROVO Croatia’s largest shoe producer which manufactures and exports new collections as well as redesigned classics such as the already popular Startas which exists for more than 40 years. There is Boromina, Borosana, My Ballerinas and more, so it’s best to hop into a store for a truly 100% authentic Croatian souvenir or gift…QD‑2, Korzo 12, tel. (+385-51) 33 29 12, www.borovo.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

Closed Sun. A GULIVER High quality accessories from another Croatian manufacturer of shoes and handbags, as well as belts, scarves, wallets and more! With 30 years under their belt, their products are not only trendy in keeping up with the times but valued.QS‑3, Tower Centar, Janka Polića Kamova 81A, tel. (+385-51) 42 20 95, www.guliver.hr. Open 09:00 21:00, Mon 13:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

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Where to stay HOTELS In Croatia hotels aregraded two, three, four or five star.

Hotels graded two star are usually managed by the owners, so the advantages include a friendly family atmosphere. The hotels are clean but basic and are equipped very simply. Most two star hotels do not have their own restaurant but you can usually find good restaurants with reasonable prices nearby.

Three star hotels generally offer rather more spacious accommodation with well-equipped rooms, but the hotel services usually do not include a porter. Three star hotels usually have mid-sized restaurants. The availability of room service depends on the hotel. A car park, gym and swimming pool are frequently provided.

Four star hotels are usually large formal hotels with staffed reception areas and porters. Four star hotels are usually located close to areas with shops, restaurants and other main attractions. The level of service is significantly above average, the rooms are tastefully furnished and the hotel usually has a good restaurant. Room service is usually available for most of the day. Most often guests have use of a car park, gym and one or more swimming pools.

Five star hotels offer the highest quality accommodation. Although most five star hotels are large, some are small independent hotels (i.e. not part of a chain) offering an elegant intimacy. Five star hotels have restaurants with carefully selected menus. Room service is usually available round the clock. Guests usually have a fitness centre and spa on offer and a parking service or garage. A receptionist is also on duty 24 hours.

Croatia also offers specialised wellness hotels which have opened to meet global demand for health and wellness tourism. Most of the wellness and spa centres are located in Opatija, Dubrovnik and on Lošinj island. The island of Lošinj has a tradition of health tourism going back 125 years, with its roots in the Austro-Hungarian Empire when the island’s beneficial climate and vegetation were first recognised.

Heritage hotels are located in older buildings of cultural and historic significance. The hotel menu should be representative of local cuisine.

Boutique hotels are luxurious smaller hotels with an intimate atmosphere. They may be part of a larger chain, but they are unique in the way that they are decorated, each room often being different. Here the individual approach is based on anticipating guests’ needs before they even articulate them. These small, luxury hotels are becoming more popular in this region over the last few years as guests become weary of the standard offering.

PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION In Croatia there are more rooms available in private accommodation than in hotels. Family-run hotels are taking on an increasingly important role in Croatian tourism and aim to attract guests all year round.

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Private apartments are the most widely available type of accommodation, especially on the islands. It seems that every house on the Adriatic coast has rooms or apartments to let in the summer months. This is a way of life in Croatia, and usually provides one of the main sources of income for families.

The advantages of holidaying in apartments on the Croatian coast include great value for money and direct contact with the owner. The choice of apartments on the Croatian coast is diverse, ranging from low-priced rooms to luxury apartments. It used to be common for owners of private rooms to stand on the main highway that runs along the coast or at bus and train stations holding signs saying “Zimmer Frei” (“Vacant Room” in German, since the majority of visitors at that time were German-speaking). Accommodation advertised in this way is usually lower in quality and is often illegal but the owner may be open to a little haggling if the tourist is prepared for a little excitement!

Stone villas are an increasingly popular choice for families who have a little more money to spend, especially in Istria.

When you reserve a villa like this it is important to find out how far you will be from the sea, if that is important to you, because many such properties are located in the hinterland, although they may have swimming pools. Villas are often outside highly populated areas, so are an ideal choice if peace and quiet are important factors in your choice.

Those who love to be alone and completely unplug from civilisation can also select Robinson Crusoe style accommodation in remote bays or on small islands such as Pašman, Drvenik or Dugi Otok. Accommodation like this may not even have a connection to mains water or electricity, using rainwater and solar power. It is the perfect choice if you want to enjoy unspoilt nature and be right by the sea.

HOSTELS Hostels are meeting places offering individuality, variety, simplicity and a friendly atmosphere, all at a reasonable price. Hostels were once ultra-basic but today they are modern, safe and fun places of a surprisingly high standard.

As well as a multitude of campsites, apartments, resorts and hotels, the Croatian coast in recent times has become home to fantastic unique hostels which contribute to making the country a brilliant place to stay.

Hostels in Croatia are inexpensive so it’s only to be expected that the creature comforts are not the same as in other types of accommodation. They are popular with young people who are just passing through and who only need a place to stay for a night or two, although anyone who needs cheaper accommodation can use hostels.

Rooms in hostels usually have multiple beds and shared bathrooms, but the level of comfort offered is becoming ever closer to that offered by hotels.

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Arrival & Getting Around ARRIVING BY BOAT An arrival by boat in Rijeka gives you a great view of the grand old buildings lining the quayside and puffing their way up the hillside, with myriad shutters lending a Mediterranean feel. You’re right in the heart of the city, with the coach and local bus stations close at hand and a taxi rank right there - see the map of the city centre at the back of this guide. Local ferries (trajektne linije) and passenger boats (brodske linije) run from Rijeka to the surrounding islands. The islands are simply gorgeous, and tickets for foot passengers are absolutely affordable, while you can expect to pay about 100kn (15€) to take your car across.

JADROAGENT QD‑2, Trg Ivana Koblera 2, tel. (+385-51) 21 12 76, www. jadroagent.hr. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. JADROLINIJA Jadrolinija ferries and catamarans operate to Mali Lošinj, Cres, Rab and Pag, and between Krk and Cres. Tickets for local catamarans, international ferries and the coastal line Rijeka-Split-Hvar-Dubrovnik can be purchased online.

For local catamarans it is possible to book one month in advance (maximum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling. Call 060 32 13 21 for the automated timetable service. ATM outside. Timetable in the window.QC‑3, Riječki lukobran bb (Putnički terminal), tel. (+385-51) 21 14 44, www.jadrolinija.hr. Open 07:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. October - May Open 07:00 15:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.

LOSINIA Venezia-lines agent.QRiva Lošinjskih kapetana 8, Mali Lošinj, tel. (+385-51) 23 10 77/(+385-51) 23 30 40, www. losinia.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

RAPSKA PLOVIDBA Kiosks in Mišnjak (Rab) and Stinica (mainland) ports. Check the sailing schedule here.QHrvatskih branitelja domov‑ inskog rata 1/2, Rab, tel. (+385-51) 72 41 22, www. rapska-plovidba.hr.

ARRIVING BY BUS Though small, the long-distance bus station (autobusni kolodvor), right in the city centre, is a real hub and has everything you need. Bus travel is the preferred method of long distance public transportation: it’s cheap, relatively quick and usually comfortable. A large number of Croatian destinations are served, as well as a growing number of foreign destinations on all points of the compass. Ticket office: Open 05:30 - 22:30; June 20 - September 10 Open 24/7, tel.

060 30 20 10 (automated service, press 2 to contact the operator) for reservations and info. Outside opening times, you can buy tickets on board, but during summer it’s best to reserve in advance, or buy online www.autotrans.hr and get 5% discount. Changing money: there are exchange bureaux on Platform 1 and ATMs by the big church you see there. Left luggage (garderoba): tel. (+385-51) 33 63 47 the garderoba is inside the station building and is open facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

06:00 - 22:00. Toilets: inside the station. Getting to town: See the waterfront? Hang a left. The main street Korzo is just behind the waterfront buildings. Taxis: There’s a taxi rank at the station, or call (051-if you are calling from mobile) 970 (check Getting around for other taxi companies).

CENTRAL COACH STATION (AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR RIJEKA) QC‑2, Trg Žabica 1, tel. (+385-51) 66 06 60/(+385-) 060 30 20 10, www.autotrans.hr.

ARRIVING BY CAR From Italy: E70 motorway to Trieste, look for signs for “Fiume” and route number E61 / local route 7, which crosses Slovenia and enters Croatia at Pasjak. Route E61 / local road 8 lead you into Rijeka. The signs for the ferry, marked “Trajekt”, are a good orientation point for the centre.

From Slovenia: From Ljubljana follow route number E70 via Vrhnika and Postojna. Join local route 6 through Ilirska Bistrica. You’ll cross the border at Rupa and join the E61 which drops directly down into Rijeka.

From Zagreb: The E65 / A6 motorway runs directly from Zagreb to Rijeka. Watch the signs where motorways merge at Bosiljevo. The motorway toll costs 70kn in one direction, payable in most currencies and credit cards. If you are headed to islands take the exit at Oštrovica.

From Split: We recommend taking the new A1 motorway from Split, turning off at Bosiljevo for the A6 to Rijeka. The A8 coast road is spectacular, and great if you have plenty of time, but if you’re in a hurry its sharp bends can be fatal.

Be aware that at weekends in August, traffic in coastal areas and on the main routes into Croatia can be very heavy. For the latest traffic information, check out the Croatian Automobile Club website at www.hak.hr.

ARRIVING BY PLANE Rijeka airport (zračna luka Rijeka) near Omišalj on Krk island serves Rijeka and the Kvarner coast. It’s a tiny airport, but has a bar with sandwiches, a tourist information point, an ATM, a small duty free shop (open prior to flights), toilets, payphones, a post box, and parking. Getting to town: Autotrans buses take you to Rijeka’s city bus station on Trg bana Jelačića for 50kn one way. Check with your airline for the timetable. Taxis await your hailing outside the airport.

RIJEKA AIRPORT QHamec 1, Omišalj, Island Krk, tel. (+385-51) 84 20 40/ (+385-51) 84 12 22, www.rijeka-airport.hr. Open 08:00 - 18:00.

ARRIVING BY TRAIN Rijeka’s train station has all the basic services you need.

Train services are rather slow, but it’s a relaxing and inexpensive way to travel. The HŽPP (Croatian Railways) website has a good English page featuring ticket prices and connections for domestic and international routes.

Summer 2017

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Arrival & Getting Around Ticket office: In the central lobby you’ll find the ticket office including the international (međunarodni) and domestic window, Open 05:05 - 20:50, tel. (+385-51) 21 13 04. There is a also a ticket machine inside the bureau where you can pay your tickets for domestic routes with a credit card, as well as the option to buy your tickets online on www.hzpp.hr or via smart phone application HZPP tickets. Changing money: There are two cash machines en route to the Zagreb platform and a 24-hour cash machine outside the station building. There’s a small exchange bureau in Nikola Tesla Street opposite the train station. Left luggage: Lockers Open 04:30 - 22:00, cost: 15 kn per day.

Toilets: on Platform 1, lovely and clean.

Getting to town: The bus stop to the centre is directly in front of the station (two stops, take lines 1, 1A, 2, 6, 7, 7A or 32). If you cross the street, bus no. 32 heading west takes you to Opatija.

Taxis: There’s a taxi rank outside the station, or call (051if you are calling from your mobile) 970 (check Getting Around for other cab companies).

CENTRAL TRAIN STATION (ŽELJEZNIČKI KOLODVOR RIJEKA) QA‑2, Trg kralja Tomislava 1, tel. National info line: 060 33 34 44/(+385-51) 21 13 04, www.hzpp.hr.

CAR RENTAL DOLLAR & THRIFTY QC‑2, Žabica 1, tel. (+385-51) 32 59 00/(+385-) 098 46 92 32, www.subrosa.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. A EXPRESS RENT QD‑3, Riva boduli 7/d, tel. (+385-51) 21 47 42/(+385-) 098 910 76 96, www.expressrentcroatia.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A HERTZ QHamec 1, Omišalj, Krk (Rijeka Airport), tel. (+385-) 091 311 09 85, www.hertz.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. A OTS QN‑2, Franje Čandeka 23, tel. (+385-51) 21 51 60/(+385) 099 352 06 46, www.rentacar-rijeka.com/. Open 07:30 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A

PARKING STREET PARKING/SMS PARKING Different zones have different max waiting times – check carefully to avoid a ticket. Costs are 4 - 10 kunas per hour.

Pay at the machines, which accept 5,2,1 kuna and 50 lipa coins. Make sure you display the ticket on your dashboard.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT The orange city buses are run by Autotrolej. Rijeka’s central bus stops are at Jelačićev trg and Delta Terminal. They connect all the points you need, the city centre with Trsat and other suburbs, plus resorts on the Opatija Riviera and 60 Rijeka In Your Pocket

TOURIST INFORMATION KVARNER INFO - THE GATEWAY TO THE ADRIATIC QĆikovići bb, Kastav, tel. (+385-51) 62 33 33/(+38551) 62 88 88, www.kvarner.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.

From September Open 08:00 - 16:00.

TOURIST INFORMATION CENTER QD‑2, Korzo 14, tel. (+385-51) 33 58 82, www. visitRijeka.hr. Open Mon - Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 - 14:00. From September 15 Open 08:00 19:30, Sat 08:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. Kvarner coast, and places inland such as Kastav. Buy tickets in any news kiosk for 15.50 - 30kn; they are valid for two trips on within the city, stamp your ticket on entry. Tickets bought inside the bus for 10 - 21kn, are valid for one trip on any city route. For timetable information, call 060 15 11 51.

AUTOTROLEJ QŠkoljić 15, tel. (+385-51) 31 14 00/060 15 11 51, www. autotrolej.hr.

TAXI Rijeka has a handful of reasonably priced minicab firms.

There are taxi ranks outside the main train station, the coach station (also handy for the ferry) and on Matije Gupca, near the National Theatre. Prices vary, but they’re all reasonable: you pay a flat rate from as little as 20 - 30kn for a 5km journey, for every kilometre thereafter you’ll pay 5 7kn/per km. No extra charge for luggage. Prices for longer trips (over 15km) by agreement.

AUTO TAXI RIJEKA QN‑1, Save Vukelića 21, tel. (+385-51) 54 50 00/(+385-) 099 700 30 43.

CAMMEO QR‑3, Mihanovićeva 35, tel. (+385-1) 12 12 (press 3), www.taxi-cammeo.hr.

KVARNER TAXI Qtel. (+385-51) 30 13 01.

TOWED AWAY If you parked “illegally”, you might get towed away. If this happens, call (+385-51) 37 73 40. The depot is on Brajdica bb, beyond Delta. Reach it by the street A. K. Miošića – it’s behind the Brodokomerc warehouse. Open 07:00 - 21:15, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. There’s always someone on duty out of hours. Be prepared to pay at least 500kn to reclaim your baby-but at least you can put it on your card.

pinterest.com/inyourpocket rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Rijeka Basics Now that you’ve arrived and settled, get a brief introduction into some of the expectations and abiding rules one should follow - things that are part of everyday life to Rijeka citizens. From cash currency, tips, smoking laws, national holidays and who to call if something goes wrong.

CUSTOMS There are no custom limits between member states or tax return. For other non-member states we recommend you to follow info at www.porezna-uprava.hr.

DISABLED TRAVELLERS Raising awareness for the disabled is beginning to take shape and some improvements can be seen, but there is still a loooong way to go. At the moment, all public car parks have parking spots for disabled, most hotels have at least one room adapted for their needs, and shopping centres have suitable access with facilitated toilets, as do new buildings. In saying that, once you head outdoors one can expect problems on the streets, footpaths and access to most buildings. If you’re planning to visit, we suggest you inquire about your destination in relation to these matters and the majority will endeavour to organise and make your arrival as accessible as possible.

ELECTRICITY The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the United States will need to use a transformer to run electrical appliances.

MONEY There are plenty of exchange offices around Rijeka, as well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on you.

If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let you put it on plastic could be a problem.

ROADS When behind the wheel drivers must always have their driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them.

Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alcohol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

SAFETY You will surely find Rijeka to be remarkably safe in comparison with most Western European cities, even at night. facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

Although there is little street crime, of course it is always wise to keep a sensible eye on your personal belongings.

SMOKING Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establishments are more packed than usual. Recent law amendments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces including restaurants where it has never been easy to find a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re prepared to move inside.

TOILETS Rijeka’s public WCs are clean and free of charge. All offer disabled access. Locations: Corner of Žabica square (C-2) and Trpimirova - by the big church Gospe Lurdske. Corner of Korzo (D-2) and Trg Republike Hrvatske. On the Delta - in the park of the modern bridge (F-2).

VISAS Croatian Visa Policies are fully compliant with European Union Visa Policy and Standards. So what does that exactly mean? All citizens of states that require visas to enter other EU member countries also need a visa to enter Croatia. Therefore, before visiting Croatia, be sure to visit the Croatian Embassy in your respective country of origin.

In addition, if you are flying to Dubrovnik and wish to visit other cities throughout Croatia, we recommend you obtain a visa for multiple entries because of the border crossing through Bosnia and Herzegovina. If you cross the border without the aforementioned visa, you will not be able to enter Croatia.

WATER Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

WHEN THINGS GO WRONG Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Rijeka significantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emergency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city district, in case you were involved in an accident or were arrested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building for ER is located in Rijeka General Hospital in Krešimirova 42 (A-2) where everything necessary will be done. In case of an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987, and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.

Summer 2017

61

Maps & Index

ina

a

ća Poli

ža

na

Pa

vla

a

Ba

Krešimirova

Kre

šim

irov

Cio

a

19

ttin

rč

Dola

Zadarska

RIJEKA Old Part of the Town - a sightseeing tour of the city's nucleus

62 Rijeka In Your Pocket

B

Kor Adam

ić

Riva

22 Istarsko

De Fran ceschie v gat

Orlando v gat

A

c

Jadranski trg

Budimpe

3

a

a

Trpimirova

Church of St. Jerome, ex Municipal Palace and Stenderac, the city flagpole University Library - Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art štansko and Historical Museum of Croatian Littoral - ex Governor’s Palace Maritime pristaništ e City Museum Bečko pr istanište Natural History Museum Palace of Justice St. Vitus’ Church St. Sebastian’s Church Ruins of the late-antiquity castrum The Roman Arch “Old Gateway” Old Town Hall in Rijeka Church of the Assumption and the Leaning Tower “Modello” Palace Main market Croatian National Theatre “Ivan pl. Zajc” Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas City Tower “Ploech” Palace Capucin’s church, the Lady of Lourdes Ex Main Palace of old sugar rafinery Railway station P/B “Uragan” State archives Rijeka

Fran

ića

18

Žabica

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

II

Bla

ttin

Iva

Splitska

Nikole Te sle

Alessandra Manzonia

Cio

21

2

Iva

iče ra Č

Trg Kralja Tomislava

erio

ajne iše V

Brajda

Pomerio

Pom

Fiorella la Gua rdie

20 OPATIJA

vića

a

Slav

Filipo

C

Ive Marin ković

Erazma

aE m

B

arija

Ivana

Car

ja

tora

Albah

REB

I

ZAG

Cambierieva

Moše

a 1. m

1

Vik

SLO

Kružna C-2 Kumičićeva R-3, S-3 Laginjina P-2 / C-1, D-1 La Guardia B-1 Liburnijska L-3 Linićeva V-1, V-2 Ljubljanska cesta G-2, H-2, H-3 Ljudevita Matešića B-1 Lorenzov prolaz D-1 Lošinjska K-3 Marka Remsa P-2 Martina Kontuša S-2, S-3 Matačićeva E-3 Matije Gupca E-2 Meštrovićeva L-2 Mihanovićeva R-3, S-3 Milana Smokvine Tvrdog F-1, F-2 Miroslava Krleže J-2 Mljekarski trg E-2 Moše Albaharija B-1 Muzejski trg D-1

Istarsko pristanište C-2 Ivana Ćikovića Belog J-2, K-2 Ivana Dežmana C-1, D-1 Ivana Filipovića A-1, B-1 Ivana Grohovca E-1 Ivana Rendića B-1 Ivana Zajca Q-3 / E-2, E-3 Ive Marinkovića C-1 Jadranski trg C-2 Janeza Trdine E-2 Janka Polića Kamova R-3, S-3 Jelačićev trg E-2 Josipa Kulfaneka R-2 Kačjak R-1, S-1, S-2 Kalvarija E-1 Kastavska G-1 Kazališni park E-3 Korzo C-2, D-2, E-2 Kozala P-1, P-2, Q-2 Krešimirova O-3, P-3 / A-2, B-2 Križanićeva F-1

Studentska

A

Drenovski put P-1 Erazma Barčića C-1, C-2 Fiorella La Guardie P-3 / A-1, B-1 Fiumara Q-3 / E-2 Fra Serafina Schona V-2 Frana Kurelca C-1, D-1 Frana Supila D-1, D-2 Franje Brentinija F-2 Franje Čandeka N-2 F. Račkoga Q-2 / F-1 / U-1, U-2 Frankopanski trg U-1 Gat Karoline Riječke D-2, D-3 Glavinićeva U-1, V-1 Gomila D-1 Grivica E-2 Grobnička cesta R-1 Grobnička riva E-3 Grohovo E-1 Ignacia Henckea D-2 Industrijska M-3, N-3 Istarska J-3

I.Rendić

Adamićeva Q-3 / C-2 Adamićev gat C-2, C-3 Agatićeva E-1, E-2 Alda Colonnella E-1 Alessandra Manzonia A-1 Ante Starčevića E-2 Baštijanova P-2 Bečko pristanište B-2 Blaža Polića B-1 Bošket U-1, U-2 Bože Vidasa J-2, K-2 Brajda A-1 Budimpeštansko pristanište A-2 Bulevar oslobođenja Q-3 / F-1 Ciottina B-1, C-2 Dalmatinska E-2 De Franceschiev gat B-3, C-3 Delta F-2 Demetrova D-3, E-3 Dolac C-2, D-2 Drage Šćitara V-2

pristanište

Adamiće v gat

RIJEKA cen Riječk

i lukobr

an

C rijeka.inyourpocket.com

Maps & Index

je Ru Ra žić čk eva og a

INA

T SA TR nella ćeva

AL KAN

ara Fium

ea

MR riva

ka

a

A

Kazališni park

15

ZAGREB

lova

SPLIT SPLIT

nička

We nze

Trninina

Ribarsk

Vesla rs

Zajca

Delta 2

IN

ava Li sinsko g

2

rića

Č

Vatro sl

Gupca

eva

I. Hen ck

tinija

ind ka C

JE

i

ren je B

Riva B odul

Fran

va

R

bačka

Slav

ro

a

Matije

14

Zagre

ye

šić

va

ma

io

Verdie

ina

ss

M

13

Gat Karoline Riječke

Jelačićev trg

rova

Grob TOUCH SCREEN KIOSK

1

a

16

S

Delta

enja

čić

Scarp

Ivana

Demet

te

a

ro

rdog

An

vić

bođ

Ka

rzo

če tar

rije

Pavlinski trg

Trg Sv. Barbare

And

17 o

12

Užarska Mljekarski trg

oslo

a

e Tv

11 Trg Ivana Koblera

Trg 111 Hrvats . brigade ke vojske

ev

var

kvin

9

Ko

ntar

nić

St

10

Riva

iža

mo na S

Grivica

A

Trg Re Trg 128. briga pu Hrvatskblike Hrvatske vojskde e e

oh

ov

8

Agati

Frana

Gomila

Korz

Kr

Mila

Stroha

a

lište

3

Senjsko pristanište

D facebook.com/RijekaInYourPocket

E

© St. Valter 2011/12

Zanonova

fašizm

7

Trg Riječke rezolucije

Titov trg

ČIN

TOUCH SCREEN KIOSK

a

F

Šeta

ćeva

žić

Bule

RJE

zo

e

ru

Gr Žrtava

1 2

ub

aK

na

6

Supila

a

ljić

Colon

ana

Ško

Iva

Žrtava fašizma

lova

a Ku relc

Park Nikole Hosta

a

Dežm

i trg

Kalvarij

ana

ejsk

ca

23 Muz

St

an

E

tr Pe

Fr

5

EČ

D

TVI

3

Park Vladimira Nazora

Uskočka

a

Alda

4

jin

E-2 O-2, P-3 / A-1 M-2, N-2 L-1 E-1 V-1 N-2, O-2 E-3 C-2 D-3 L-2, M-2 C-2, D-2 G-2, S-1 M-2, N-2 B-2, C-2 Q-3 / D-1, E-1

riva

gin

Veslarska Viktora cara Emina Vinka Benca Viškovo Vodovodna Vrlije Vukovarska Wenzelova Zadarska Zagrebačka Zametska Zanonova Zaobilaznica Zvonimirova Žabica Žrtava fašizma

Školjić E-1 Titov trg F-1 Tizianova O-2, P-2 Tome Strižića S-2 Trg Grivica E-1 Trg Ivana Koblera D-2 Trg Jurja Klovića D-2 Trg Republike Hrvatske D-2 Trg Riječke rezolucije D-2 Trg Svete Barbare E-2 Trg Viktora Bubnja V-1 Trg 112. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trg 128. brigade hrv. vojske D-2 Trninina E-3 Trpimirova C-2 Trsatske stube Petra Kružića F-1 Uski prolaz B-2 Uskočka riva E-2 Užarska E-2 Vatroslava Lisinskog D-3, E-3 Verdieva D-3

Matačić

La

Riva P-3 / C-2, D-2 Riva boduli D-3 Ružićeva F-1 Scarpina Q-3 / E-2 Senjsko pristanište D-3 Slaviše Vajnera Čiče B-1 Slavka Cindrića Q-3, R-3 / F-2 Slavka Krautzeka R-2, S-2 / V-2 Splitska C-2 Stipana konzula Istranina E-2 Strohalova D-1, D-1 Strossmayerova Q-3, R-3/F-1, F-2 Stube Petra Kružića F-1 / U-2 Studentska B-1 Šenoina V-1,V-2 Šetalište A. Kačića Miošića F-2 Šetalište I. G. Kovačića Q-2, R-3 Šet. Rakovca Q-2, R-2, R-3 / U-2 Šet. trinaeste divizije R-3, S-3, T-4 Šetalište V. Nazora D-1,E-1 Šime Ljubića D-2

RJ

Nikole Tesle A-1 Nova Cesta L-2, M-2 Nova Ciottina C-1 Orlandov gat 3-A Osječka N-1, O-2 Park Nikole Hosta D-1 Park Vladimira Nazora D-1 Partizanski put U-1 Pavla Rittera Vitezovića E-2 Pavlinski trg E-2 Petra Zrinskog U-1 Pod kaštelom D-1 Pod voltun D-2 Pomerio P-3 / B-1, C-1 Preluk G-2, G-3 Prvog maja O-2, P-2 / A-1 Pul vele crikve E-2 Put Bože Felkera V-1 Put V. Valkovića Poleta U-2, V-2 Radićeva U-2 Ribarska E-2

F Summer 2017

63

M

N

D O N J A D R E N O VA

RUPA

O

ŠKURINJSKA DRAGA Šmit

Minakovo

RIJEKA CENTAR

Čvor "Škurinje"

RUJEVICA O

BANDEROVO

sj

eč

ka

RAS

Čvor “Rujevica”

O

TURNIĆ F ra n je

eka

ko

va

en

sk a

Z

ir o v o n im

va

Z vo ni m

ir ov a

TUMAČ ZNAKOVA LEGEND / LEGENDE / LEGENDA / LEGENDE

INFORMACIJE

INFORMATION / INFORMATION / INFORMAZIONI / INFORMATIONS

PARKIRALIŠTE

CAR PARK / PARKPLATZ / PARCHEGGIO / PARKING

BENZINSKA POSTAJA

B u ti n a

eš

im

a ra č a

AUTOBUSNI KOLODVOR

LUČKA KAPETANIJA

BUS STATION / BUSBAHNHOF / ` STAZIONE DEGLI AUTOBUS / GARE ROUTIERE

AUTOBUS - PRIGRADSKE LINIJE

BUS - LOCAL LINES / BUS - LOKALE LINIEN / AUTOBUS-LINEE LOCALI / AUTOBUS - LIGNES LOCALES

tuRIstički autobus

KAMP

CAMPSITE / CAMPINGPLATZ / CAMPEGGIO / CAMPING

HOTEL / HOTEL / ALBERGO / HÔTEL

HOTEL

TAXI LOKACIJE TAXI RANK / TAXISTAND / POSTEGGIO TAXI / STATION DE TAXIS

PRIVATE ACCOMMODATION / PRIVATUNTERKUNFT / ALLOGGIO PRIVATO / LOGEMENT PRIVÉ

PRIVATNI SMJEŠTAJ

PAUK

ŽELJEZNIČKI KOLODVOR

PUTNIČKO I TRAJEKTNO PRISTANIŠTE

HOSTEL

TRŽNICA

GARDEROBA

M

B R

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HARBOUR MASTER’S OFFICE / HAFENAMT / CAPITANERIA DI PORTO / CAPITAINERIE PORTUAIRE

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Health in Europe’s healing garden Kvarner Health Tourism Cluster gathers 29 members from medical, touristic and university sector. Kvarner region, with its 170 years long tradition, has positioned itself on the map of Europe among the leading health destinations, as a Riviera famous for its year-round offer of high-quality services in health tourism. Cluster can offer you a recognizable and competitive health tourism product compiled of the following services offered by our members:

Health services: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •

Anaesthesiology Check-ups Cardiology Dermatology and venereology Diagnostics Endocrinology Physical therapy and rehabilitation Gastroenterology Gynaecology and obstetrics Haematology Hemodialysis Nephrology Neurology Medical-biochemical laboratory Ophthalmology Orthopaedics Otorhinolaryngology Physical examinations Preventive examinations Pulmonology Radiology Surgery (general and aesthetic) Urology Wellness

Dental medicine: • • • • •

Conservation Dental prosthetics Oral surgery and implantology Parodontology Smile design

Tourist services: For more information contact us on e-mail info@kvarnerhealth.hr or visit our website www.kvarnerhealth.hr.

• • • •

Accommodation Excursions Guides Transfers

Educational services: •

Postgraduate specialist study Health Tourism