Inside Himalayas - Community Tourism

Adorned in their traditional attire, Rana Tharu hosts welcome guests with a namaste.

Photo by RMT.

Managing Director

Shiva Dhakal

Creative Director

Bikal Khanal

Editor Maya Khan

Cover Photo

Shashanka Chitrakar

Contributors

Maya Khan, Aayusha Prasain, Bikal Khanal, Ila Reddy, Priyanka Singh, Rubik Joshi, Pooja Akula, Marissa Taylor & Aishwarya Baidar

Published by

Royal Mountain Group

Lal Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal

Tel: +977-1-4444378

Web: www.royalmt.com.np

Printed in Nepal using 100% wood-free paper

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Community Tourism in Nepal: from Lowland to Mountains

Inside Himalayas

Royal Mountain Travel

Namaskar to all my fellow travelers and seekers of meaningful journeys. I am Shiva Dhakal, the founder and Managing Director of Royal Mountain Group, including Community Homestay Network and Inside Himalayas. Born and raised amidst the vibrant chaos of Kathmandu, my heart found its true rhythm in the quiet majesty of the Himalayas.With over three decades of experience in organizing group tours into the rural embrace of our Nepali communities, I have witnessed the transformative power of tourism. It’s not just about breathtaking landscapes- it’s about working together, and sharing each other’s resources and skills to build a more secure future. In an era where towering resorts dominate the skyline, I dream of a Nepal where every village is a destination, and every smile a guide. I aim to lead by example when it comes to sustainable tourism, with love and care as the intention behind every action I take. With this special publication, I hope to show the world the ins and outs of Community Tourism (CT) in Nepal, and elucidate the greatness of the good that can be brought to a society affected by responsible and sustainable tourism.

Bikal is the Chief Purpose Officer of Royal Mountain Group, with previous work experience as a product developing expert at Community Homestay Network. His specialization is in sustainable tourism and Community Tourism. Venturing through the hidden wonders of rural Nepal has fueled his conviction in tourism as a catalyst for prosperity. Embracing the power of intercultural learning and the vast potential of Community Tourism, Bikal sees a Nepal where locals are entrepreneurs, contributing significantly to the authentic tourism experience. He advocates for the goal to explore the touristic potential of every corner of Nepal, as every interaction is a story, and to collectively weave Nepal’s rich spirit into the fabric of global tourism - making it a unique and enriching destination for all.

Shiva Dhakal

Bikal Khanal

Rajju Lal Maskey

Rajju Lal Maskey, the General Manager at Royal Mountain Travel, is a seasoned professional in the tourism industry with a strong focus on communitydriven initiatives. With extensive experience, he excels in trip designing, emphasizing responsible tourism practices. Rajju Lal actively contributes to B2B partnerships and in shaping journeys that prioritize the well-being of local communities. The way in which he views the positive impact and transformative potential is responsible tourism nourishes his ability to build bridges between the company and local communities, as well as implement training programs that expand the capacities of the hosts.

Aayusha Prasain

Aayusha brings a depth of experience working in international institutions, research firms and nongovernment organizations in Nepal. After obtaining her master’s degree in International Development with a specialization in rural and regional development from Nagoya University in Japan, Aayusha made the conscious decision to return to Nepal and contribute to rural development. Now serving as the CEO of Community Homestay Network, she is focused on strengthening the organization’s capabilities and streamlining and scaling the impact through tourism across communities. For Aayusha, it is high time to shift the narratives from who benefits from tourism to who bears the costs of tourism, be it socio-economic or environmental, and how community/ sustainable tourism should not be confined to a niche market but should be embraced by all components of the tourism sector to ensure a sustainable future for the local residents, the travelers and travel industry.

Maya Khan

Maya has a Bachelors in English Literature and Creative Writing, and a Masters in Translation. Joining her expertise on the technicalities of language and writing with her passion for Nepal and Himalayan cultures, her work as the editor of Inside Himalayas is a perfect amalgamation of her skills and interests. While she was not well versed in the many nuances of the travel industry and Community Tourism prior to her work for Inside Himalayas, she quickly learned the value of this approach to travel. Having followed the world of the arts for a long time, the similarities between the ethics of CT and traveling for the sake of research or artistic pursuit piqued her interest. Her contributions to this edition include a comparison between CT and responsible filmmaking in remote Himalayan regions, along with interviews on the tourism industry.

Poonam Prakash Gupta Shrestha

Poonam works as the Chief Operating Officer in Community Homestay Network, overseeing daily operations, legal compliances and strategic partnerships. Native to the ancient town of Panauti, she first started her work in the tourism sector as a translator for her own mother’s venture, Panauti Community Homestay. This is when she discovered the joys of connecting with international visitors and building bridges with hosts. She seized the opportunity to work with Royal Mountain Travel and CHN in the role of Community Coordinator, and since then, she has found immense value in community driven tourism and its power to transform lives. She has had a pivotal role in the company when it comes to developing B2B partnerships, designing capacity-building training programs, and fostering smooth communication between the company and the communities.

Photo by Sonam Tashi Lama/RPN.

Inside the Mind of Shiva Dhakal

Community Homestay Regional Profiles (Panauti and Kritipur)

Breaking Down Barriers: Planeterra

Community Homestay Regional Profiles (Patlekhet and Barauli)

Community Experiences

Developing Responsible Tourism In Dhankuta

Community Homestay Regional Profiles (Rana Tharu and Tharu Sonaha)

The Economic Resilience of Himalayan Tourism

Into the Fuzzscape: Exploring The Sounds of Nepal

Challenges Faced by Tourism

A Quick Introductions to Initiatives We Admire

Guest is God - The Soul of Himalayan Hospitality

From Orange Groves to Pine Forests: Journey to Dhankuta

Bardiya: A Haven for Wildlife

The Women of the High Himalayas

Community Homestay Regional Profiles (Narchyang and Bhada)

Filmmaking with Remote Himalayan Communities

The kind and welcoming smile of elderly women in Kirtipur. Photo by Community Homestay Network.

MAYA KHAN

Inside the Mind of Shiva

Dhakal

“Seeing the successful businessman and social entrepreneur that he is today, it is hard to imagine the self-forged path that brought him to the position in which he is today.”

Shiva Dhakal speaks to a group of hosts and visitors. Photo by RMT.

In the misty hills of Nepal is a warm and loving family of 22 individuals. This constellation of grandparents, aunties, uncles and cousins spends every moment of the day together, sleeping under the same roof, and eating from the same kitchen. The depth of the care and sympathy these individuals have for each other is imprinted into the impressionable minds of the children of this family, marking their personality forever. One of these kids is Shiva Dhakal, who credits his sensibility towards family and community dynamics to the large family he was born into. It comes to no surprise that Mr. Dhakal would grow up to become a visionary for the development of local Nepali communities in relation to the tourism sector. Today he is renowned for having established Royal Mountain Travel in 2005, and subsequently Community Homestay Network (CHN) in 2017, along with other businesses such as Avata, a yoga and relaxation center, two boutique hotels in Kathmandu Valley and Inside Himalayas, a magazine focused on giving a platform to the voices of the travelers in Nepal. Seeing the successful businessman and social entrepreneur that he is today, it is hard to imagine the self-forged path that brought him to the position in which he is today.

Origins and Observations

Having started his career at the tender age of 17, Mr. Dhakal’s innovative ideas began to take shape in his mind by the time he was in his early twenties. His very first job was in a little guest house in Thamel, the touristic hub of Kathmandu, where he worked as a young, jack-of-alltrade. Shortly after that, he worked as a staff member in a trekking equipment rental company. Both these jobs put him in close contact with foreign visitors in Nepal, and marked the beginning of a long career in this sector. By the time he was 20, he began doing some office work in a trekking agency, and soon he began guiding groups in what was then called camping treks. In the 90’s this form of trekking was more popular than it is today. Seen as a luxury, this form of trekking meant that the trekkers would carry along a guide to show them the way, one or multiple porters to carry the bags, tents, cooking ingredients, and personal belongings, and there would often be a cook who came along too. The observations made by Mr. Dhakal during this period of his life permanently altered his perception of the tourism sector in Nepal and inspired him to establish Royal Mountain Travel and CHN.

Shiva Dhakal leading a group in the Annapurna region. Photo by RMT.

Visitor enjoys the experience of wearing traditional clothes with hosts. Photo by RMT.

“In the 90’s there were thousands of visitors coming to trek in Everest, Annapurna and Langtang regions. We guided many groups there. When camp trekking was the trend, we used to carry every single thing from Kathmandu. We would carry Italian pasta, Italian tomato sauce, bread, a variety of canned items such as tuna, meats, exotic fruits, and we’d carry along some fresh vegetables too. Thinking of it now it seems strange, but it was the norm back then because we were under the impression that these items were luxurious and that this is what our clients expected from us. In order to cater to their need for familiarity and comfort, we would only provide western food, like muesli and cereal for breakfast, canned pineapple and mango as a snack, pasta with pelati for dinner… The only local products we used to buy were firewood. Along with the fee for the wood, we would pay a small fee to pitch our tent on local grounds and to use the kitchen,” recounts Mr. Dhakal. “We made the observation that even though thousands of people were coming to visit these areas of Nepal, barely any money was going into the pockets of the local communities. The firewood and other fees would barely make up the sum of two dollars. As time

went by it seemed increasingly ridiculous to me to be bringing all of these ingredients from the city. I think that the perception back then was that the locals had little to offer, but that was far from the truth. We still had to bring many ingredients from Kathmandu, but we began to buy some fresh things like milk and produce from the locals so that we could decrease the amount of canned goods. At the same time, the trend was slowly shifting from camp trekking to teahouse trekking, where locals began to give accommodation in their tea houses, later turned into lodges. Camp trekking used to be very expensive because the manpower required for it was disproportionate compared to the number of trekkers, tea house trekking on the other hand was much more reasonable in price. We also observed how all the visitors would just go to Annapurna, Langtang and Everest regions, which are indeed very beautiful, but there is so much more to Nepal than these places, and besides for Kathmandu Valley, all the other regions of Nepal would barely see any foreign visitor.”

“We also observed how all the visitors would just go to Annapurna, Langtang and Everest regions, which are indeed very beautiful, but there is so much more to Nepal than these places, and besides for Kathmandu Valley, all the other regions of Nepal would barely see any foreign visitor.”

A warm traditional welcome at Panauti Community Homestay. Photo by RMT.

The Birth and Vision of CHN

These observations came to play in Mr. Dhakal’s attitudes when he founded Royal Mountain Travel. His main focus was on how local communities could benefit from the flow of tourism in their localities.

“Thankfully, the time in which I started my own business coincided with the shift in travel trends and interests. Adventure tourism had always been famous in Nepal, but at that time, cultural tourism was starting to take a stronghold too,” he says. “Our first experiment started in Panauti, where we started a small scale homestay in the home of Ashok and Shila, an RMT guide and his wife. Back then, we were just starting out, and we weren’t confident in our vision yet. As we educated ourselves on Community Tourism (CT), we also analyzed the feedback we got from the hosts and visitors of the community homestay in Panauti. It attracted culture seeking

travelers and young backpackers. We realized that the homestay model was a win-win situation for all the stakeholders: the travelers would have an authentic experience of the local community, the hosts would have a greater and more direct economic impact, and I personally found the Goldilocks zone that brought together my skills as a businessman and my vision as a social entrepreneur. In time, as the network of homestays grew in Panauti with the help of all women who jumped on board our vision, we gained the confidence to establish CHN, and expand our business model to other areas of Nepal.”

Bruce Poon Tip, the founder of G adventures, played a key role in informing Mr. Dhakal on the mechanisms behind CT operations, and their transformative communitybuilding power. Thanks to the invaluable advice and knowledge imparted by Mr. Poon Tip, and the inspirational way in

which G Adventures is run, Mr. Dhakal was motivated to start an experiment of his own, as he felt like it was his responsibility to introduce CT to the Nepali tourism industry. Along with Planeterra Foundations’s ongoing support and G Adventure’s guidance, Mr. Dhakal founded CHN with the goal of working hand in hand with local communities to expand their hosting capacities and developing authentic local experiences aimed towards preserving cultures and traditions. Today, CHN has expanded to 37 communities all over the country, impacting 316 households, including 908 women and 1966 individuals who directly and indirectly benefit from the program As of today 10,000 foreign visitors have participated in the activities and accommodations facilities offered by CHN. “After seeing all the flow of tourists being funneled into the three main trekking regions, our idea was to find a way to bring them to all those beautiful

Rana Tharu hosts welcome their guest with a tika. Photo by RMT.

and culturally rich areas of Nepal that are not as visited. Along with that, it was our desire to offer the visitors a chance to truly see how the locals live and give them the opportunity to experience the same life for a couple of days. This is when we thought of selling experiences such as cooking and language courses, agriculture and animal husbandry activities, adventures like hiking and biking in the areas surrounding the homestays, wildlife activities, and any other way of integrating with the local culture such as following a person throughout their day and living their same daily routine.”

Community Centered Business Model

All of this takes much effort from the local hosts, but their conviction to the business model makes it all possible. The way CHN runs is by following the 80/20 business model. Mr. Dhakal explains that “when a traveler books a stay or an experience, our office keeps 20% of the revenue, which fuels our operational costs. The remaining 80% goes into the hands of the hosts. That sum is further divided, as 20% goes into a shared community chest, and the remaining 80% is kept by the hosts for their personal expenses. In our experience, the hosts prioritize their children’s education and health expenses before anything else. The shared community fund is an integral part of our business model. In a community, there are many households that are involved in our program, either by offering accommodation or by offering other services. All of these integrate the shared fund. The community has complete control over how these funds are spent. The locals come together to assess their needs as a community, and thinking especially of how they can further cater to visitors, they decide on what to invest the shared funds on. This is not only integral in developing a community as a tourist destination, but also to foster the feelings of togetherness and collaboration necessary to keep a group of people together and focused on the same goal. The only way in which we play a role in this is by providing various training sessions which educate the way in which they assess their needs and make decisions. We are not an NGO, so we do not spoon feed them. We understand that they are all intelligent people who are fully capable of making viable choices, so our training is mainly focused towards sharing our expertise with them. This means that we mainly show them the

Poster of Shiva Dhakal during a United Nations World Tourism Organisation event. Photo by RMT.

Hosts harvesting grain. Photo by RMT.

“There is a great difference between locations in the hilly region and those in the Terai plain lands, and this is a factor that defines the locals’ willingness in participating in the program.”

lens through which someone working in the tourism sector needs to view their assets, identify their unique selling points, and build in them confidence in their capabilities. We also help them gain familiarity with western standards of hygiene and comfort so that they may be ready to welcome visitors successfully. It is our belief that the locals’ inherent skills are enough to run a successful homestay community, all we do is give them some pointers on what would make them more viable. The main issue that we help them overcome is in their self confidence. At the beginning, it was hard for them to understand that visitors may be interested in them, as they did not see the appeal of their lives and villages. We played a role in helping them understand why visitors may be attracted to them and their lifestyle, which translated to them valuing their culture, traditions, lifestyle and skills more.” Since CHN is a business operation based on the foundation of social entrepreneurship rather than being an NGO, the main dynamic between them and the local communities they work with is not one of co-dependence. CHN serves as a platform that connects local communities interested in making a livelihood out of tourism related activities, and the tourists themselves. Currently, CHN is partnered with 50 national destination management companies and other international tour operators. Along with CHN’s own website, these companies serve as a bridge between the service providers and the service seekers. With the establishment of the community fund and the training programs, the goal is to incentivise the members of the local communities to take matters in their own hand and become as self reliant as possible, with the only help needed being that of connecting them to the travelers.

Finding Potential Off the Beaten Path

Such an investment of time, energy and money is not for everyone, in fact, CHN is very careful when it comes to deciding which communities to offer their services to, as many factors come into play. First of all, they need to check out the personality of the community as a whole and see how welcoming, friendly, and open minded they are. They also need to have retained elements from their traditional way of life and connection to nature so that they can be marketed in concordance to CHN’s

Hospitality in Nepal is founded on the deep respect between host and guest. Photo by RMT.

A group of visitors descend a hill in the Annapurna Basecamp area. Photo by RMT.

principles. However, even if the potential for these elemental factors is there, logistics come into play. The questions to be asked are, is the road to that location comfortable enough, how much hiking is involved, are there any attractions along the way? There is a great difference between locations in the hilly region and those in the Terai plain lands, and this is a factor that defines the locals’ willingness in participating in the program. In the hilly, the houses are often rather large, and the hosts have enough space to set aside a room especially for their guests. Most family and home activities are done in indoor common spaces, so homes cater for a large number of people. This means that the hosts can adapt their preexisting home and facilities with relatively low investment. On the other hand, life in the plains mainly happens outdoors, with the homes being one-roomed hut-like structures almost only meant for sleeping and taking refuge from the rain. Every communal activity occurs outside. In this case, the locals have to build a separate hut adjacent to their own for the visitors. This takes up quite a bit of dedication, but it pays off because many visitors prefer having a more separate private space compared to the ones offered in hilly region homes. Investment of some sort is necessary regardless of whether the home is in the hills or in the plains, and people who are not familiar with CHN may be reluctant. As Mr. Dhakal says, it is the question of did the chicken come first or the egg, “when we approach a community or family and explain the investment that is required, they tell us first to send visitors, and then they will make the necessary adaptations, however, we can not sent the visitors until the facility are up to standard. Thankfully, many people believe in us, and they make the necessary adaptations to come into business. Our main cheerleaders are people who used to work with us already, so they were already familiar with our ethics and dedication to work. The first people to follow into our program were former Royal Mountain Travel trekking guides and office staff. For example, we used to have a passionate staff member in our office. After he understood how we operate and the impact of our work, he decided to establish a homestay in his native village, Narchyang. He involved his whole community in this, and now a total of 10 families are part of the community network. Similarly, one of our tour guides started a homestay in Barauli,

Ranjana Lipi writing class. Photo by RMT.

and now multiple other initiatives have stemmed from it. It is our main goal to foster independent thinking and initiative taking, and we give our support in whatever way is most appropriate.”

Sustainable Growth and Visions for The Future

The concept of travel, upon which CHN builds its working ethics, relies on the concept of sustainable growth. The image of a trekking guide taking the initiative of opening their own homestay network is a perfect example of this, and it closely mirrors Mr. Dhakal’s own career’s stepping stones. Thinking of the concept of sustainable growth applied to the community as a whole rather than just the individual, CHN’s aim is to address some of the issues caused by the inorganic development of mainstream destinations. When destinations become mainstream, they face the risk of becoming overcrowded, oversaturated with activities that are not true to their original identity, and ultimately the charm

of that place can get lost amidst the noise of businesses that try to maximize their revenues without giving a single care towards the environment, and the unique identity of the place and its inhabitants. While this may be a way to achieve quick wealth, it is not sustainable in the long run, as standardization and loss of authenticity will ultimately drive visitors away after the initial surge. This fenomena can be seen in certain hill top destinations around Kathmandu. They started off as a single hotel in the midst of a forest, overlooking the Himalayas, but have now been completely urbanized, and the view is lost behind a concrete jungle. This type of development might seem good at first glance, but when truly thinking about it, it is apparent that it is not sustainable. In order for a touristic destination to grow sustainably, the model of CHN serves as a good example. After having assessed that the given location is a suitable place for a touristic operation, the growth of that location will be affected by the means and interests of the people living there. First homestays will be established, as per

the 80/20 model, part of the revenues will stay with the host family, while the other part will go into the community fund. This fosters a sense of unity as the community will come together and decide on the best way to spend the funds available to them. They could establish a small business that caters to the tourists that visit the homestays, or find more ways for the visitors to pass their time there through creative and unique activities. In the years, this method will ensure that all the operations that are established in the community are mutually beneficial, and they add on to the common vision thelocals have for their community. The problem of overcrowding is tackled as the community will only receive an influx of visitors they can cater to. Not only this, but organic growth keeps the interest of the locals at heart, ensuring that the original charm and beauty does not get suffocated by standardization. When thinking of long-term sustainable growth, it is impossible not to think of the youth and their involvement. CHN hopes that the repercussions of their

Exploring Panauti’s beauty with Panauti Bike Station. Photo by RMT.

incentivising of traditional livelihoods and activities, along with independent thinking can be felt by the youth. A common problem faced by the youth in Nepal is lack of hope when it comes to being financially sufficient by remaining in the country, which is why a staggering number of people turn towards foreign employment in harsh working conditions. For a country to lose its youth is a tragedy, especially if this is caused by feelings of disempowerment and disincentivization. Many villages of Nepal are faced with the problem of underpopulation due to young adults leaving the country for foreign employment. This means that many traditional livelihoods go unattended, causing further aridity in other fields of employment as a domino effect. Through practices of community tourism, it is CHN’s intention to introduce a creative mindset in the young people of Nepal so that they may learn to see opportunity in ways that are new to them. By showing them how other people may value elements of their life which they may have previously taken for granted, locals, and especially youth, may see fresh career paths unfurl in front of them. By learning how to look at their natural and cultural surroundings, their ways of life and traditions, with the lens of a

person involved in the tourism industry, they may realize that it is worthwhile to stay in the country and invest time and energy to try and build something they can call their own.

The potential to generate new streams of revenue can be born out of the simplest of things. As long as one has the eyes and the spirit to detect that potential, and CHN hopes that their impact on society may lead more people in that direction. By 2025, the goal is to impact a total of 50 communities and create around twohundred new experiences to offer to visitors. With the vision of having every single visitor who travels across Nepal find their way towards a community or activity involved with CHN, Shiva Dhakal is convinced that CT will soon become the new mainstream. He has complete trust in the good that will be brought onto Nepali societies as the trends shift away from the current ways of traveling and treating host cultures, to the more holistic and responsible approach offered by CT.

“It is CHN’s intention to introduce a creative mindset in the young people of Nepal so that they may learn to see opportunity in ways that are new to them.”

Bardiya Community Homestay with an exciting Jeep Safari adventure. Photo by RMT.

AAYUSHA PRASAIN

“As we shift our perception of what tourism in Nepal should mean, are we also rethinking how we involve the people who make this industry viable?”

A group of visitors enjoying a welcoming program. Photo by CHN.

Nepal has long been a tourist destination. Travelers have often come from far and wide seeking out the rich flora and fauna, mountains and architecture that Nepal has to offer. However, while the country has been touted as a natural and cultural haven, this narrative has also limited the scope of Nepal’s tourism to its landscape and heritage.

So, if not for its scenery or ancient architecture, how can we better market Nepal as a tourism destination? One way to go about this is to view Nepal as an experience as opposed to a destination. This means promoting destinations as a place to experience unique cultures through diversified tourism products.

As we shift our perception of what tourism in Nepal should mean, are we also rethinking how we involve the people who make this industry viable? Are we keeping local communities at the center and making sure that they are the ones directly benefiting from the business that the industry brings? This requires that we respect the intergenerational knowledge and lifestyles of the people belonging to any given destination, and make sure that they benefit off of the revenue streams brought in by tourism in a direct manner.

This is where Community Tourism (CT) comes in. CT is a model of tourism that aligns itself with a destination’s culture, history, and natural resources. This type of tourism is sustainable, it builds on the local people’s strengths and promotes socio-economic well-being. It is one of the best ways to amplify the voices of rural communities, diversify tourism destinations from the mainstream ones and reduce economic leakage.

Community Tourism versus Economic Leakage

Ideally, the money spent by tourists in any destination should largely find its way back into the local economy. By visiting and spending money in local businesses, staying in local guesthouses and homestays, and eating in local restaurants, tourists can contribute to building a more robust tourism value chain. However, it is unfortunate that a significant amount of money spent by travelers ends up in hands very far from local ones. For various reasons, this money often does not reach local communities at all. Instead, a bulk of the revenue ends up being spread across numerous levels of corporate profits and business interests.

The philosophy of CT suggests that taking responsibility as a traveler is a key way to promote sustainable and responsible tourism. At the end of the day, it is up to the travelers to accept that tourism leakage is unethical because it causes inequality , and it is also up to them to choose the tours and trips they partake in wisely.

Demanding products and services unavailable to local markets is an agent of import leakage. For instance, asking for Camembert cheese in a rural mountainous community of Nepal instead of enjoying local Yak cheese leads to funds shifting away from local economies and going into the import of an item that could be considered exotic. Staying in big multinational hotel chains that run without the involvement of local people in remote areas leaves local communities with nothing, and instead benefits global franchises. On the other hand, opting to stay with the locals in community homestays and lodges supports communities by diversifying their income and giving travelers an immersive travel experience.

A visitor is focused on her craft with a local potter in Bhanktapur. Photo by CHN.

Promoting Local Ownership and Leadership

Local communities are the foundation of a CT experience. These experiences include residing with locals in homestays and lodges and witnessing cultural performances, but the process of strengthening CT goes further than just that. To truly strengthen CT, one must make sure to include and engage minorities, youths, women, and other historically marginalized groups.

Tour operators or destination management companies need to collaborate, create partnerships and take action with local communities. This in turn diversifies experiences and promotes lesser-known areas while also providing job opportunities and leadership skills. Based on the experience of Community Homestay Network (CHN), the hosts, especially women, have expressed an increased sense of resilience, the ability to lead various initiatives inside and outside their communities, and financial independence since joining the homestay programme.

Women from the Panauti Community Homestay and the Mai Pokhari Community Homestay have expressed a palpable sense of improvement in their lives. Managing and operating community homestays has also helped them gain more respect from their communities as they have become increasingly financially independent.

While the COVID-19 pandemic had many negative impacts on tourism, the economic pause also showed that CT has helped locals strengthen their entrepreneurial skills, and given them the insight to venture into new businesses. Anjana Shrestha, a Community Homestay host in Panauti, managed to turn her hobby into a business during the first wave of the pandemic.

Shrestha shared that “the pandemic allowed [her] to diversify [her] income and start an online business of making masks and scrunchies.”

Another community homestay in Shree Antu, Ilam, was also working to rebuild its infrastructure better during the pandemic pause. Pramila Rai Magar from the Shree Antu

“This in turn diversifies experiences and promotes lesser-known areas while also providing job opportunities and leadership skills.”

Local craftsman at work. Photo by RMT.

“The travel industry too should share responsibility in creating a sustainable future by providing travelers with varied options to make their travel sustainable, responsible, ethical, and environmentally friendly.”

Community Homestay shared that “it is important to maintain and upgrade our homestay’s standards even during the uncertainty, as I am sure whenever the pandemic ends, travelers would return to our beautiful community.”

Shared Action and Responsibility

In the case of Nepal, many community homestays and experiences have contributed to adding new tourist destinations throughout the country. Sirubari in Syanjha and Narchyang in the Annapurna Circuit area are prime examples of this. They are proof that CT also diversifies tourist destinations and promotes lesser-known areas, creating benefits for those who truly belong to the region.

However, planning tours to such regions should not solely be on the shoulders of the traveler. The travel industry too should share responsibility in creating a sustainable future by providing travelers with varied options to make their travel sustainable, responsible, ethical, and environmentally friendly. This could translate to anything, from tour operators including immersive local

destinations in their itineraries, to curating unique cultural experiences. As a tour and travel operator, our role includes not only promoting pre-existing tourism products and experiences, but also supporting communities in curating immersive travel experiences that preserve and promote their culture. For example, Panauti, though not far away from Kathmandu, was in the shadows for non-domestic travelers until CHN’s community homestay model started promoting the ancient Newar town. The introduction of CT practices in the town allowed for the participation of locals in tourism activities and helped divert traffic from highly popular destinations to an equally beautiful yet unexplored location.

Even more interestingly, the influx of business also helped revive Panauti’s culture of playing Dhime Baja, a traditional instrument. A lack of interest amongst youths in the region had driven the art of the instrument to the brink of extinction. However, the curation of the Panauti homestay experience in 2019 presented an opportunity to local youth to relearn their own culture and preserve a traditional form of art.

Mesmerising scenic views from Narchyang. Photo by RMT.

Industry Insight on Community Tourism

Indeed, the philosophy of CT has been gaining momentum in the last few years, both in Nepal and the rest of the world. A good number of creditable tour operators and industry experts have been working to amplify the concept.

During a discussion with CHN, Anton Moeskops of Shoestring Travel shared his own effort to understand the value that CT presented, “it is difficult to promote the CT or offbeat travel experiences, especially if travelers have never heard of or visited the country itself. However, as a product manager for destinations in Asia and Latin America, I made sure to visit three community homestays in Nepal last year to understand and communicate the value of the product.” Moeskops is not the only one who sees the value in tour operators learning and implementing the benefits of CT. Nora Eichkorn, an expert on sustainable tourism working with the Import Promotion Desk (IPD), also shares similar views, “tour operators and organizations have a crucial role in promoting CT to help communities build experience in hospitality and

interact with travelers while managing the travelers’ expectations.”

In fact, organizations such as Planeterra and World Challenge UK have been giving their best to incorporate and promote more sustainable travel practices across their respective audiences. Priyanka Singh, who represents Planterra, shared that the company did their best to encourage community driven enterprises by helping share the best practices they discovered across a region. Additionally, Liz Tuck, who manages the product and sustainability team for World Challenge UK, pointed out that tour operators need to account for the experiences of the destination community, as opposed to just the experiences of their clientele. Tuck states, “many times we try to ensure the safety of travelers, however, it is equally important to mitigate and think of ways, especially during times like the pandemic, to minimize the risk of transmission to the communities.”

Paving the Way Forward

While tour operators are responsible for communicating and offering diversified tourism products to the world, they are also uniquely

positioned to help communities stay at the center of tourism. Both travelers and locals should be able to be ready to accept each other’s culture and manage expectations respectively.

In addition to that, tour operators and travelers must seek ways to minimize and mitigate economic leakage. Tourists have traveled for many years, but have always been told the same things about destinations and cultures. This is starting to change, as more travelers have been wanting to explore beyond the usual experiences.

Even tour companies have begun to look outside of their usual offerings. The responsibility of tour operators is not only in marketing new destinations but also in presenting them with a narrative that has not been used before.

Presenting various CT products to the rest of the world will allow for tour operators to give back to the local communities by providing them with sustainable employment opportunities that keep them at the center of development. CT has the undoubted potential to amplify rural voices while widening the entire scope of the tourism industry.

Woman observes her field. Photo by RMT.

BIKAL KHANAL

Sustainable Development through Community Tourism: A Pathway to Positive Change

Community Tourism (CT) is an innovative approach to responsible travel that places local communities at the center of the tourism experience. Going beyond conventional sightseeing, CT invites travelers to immerse themselves in the authentic culture of their destinations. This fosters genuine cultural exchanges, promotes intercultural understanding, and preserves intangible heritage. CT emerges as a powerful conduit, uniting people from diverse backgrounds through the common thread of cultural exchange and sustainability. By embracing CT, travelers can create lasting memories while positively impacting the destinations they explore, supporting local communities, and fostering a more inclusive and connected global community.

Sustainability is at the heart of CT, encompassing environmental preservation, socio-economic development,

and the empowerment of local residents. CT supports local economies by channeling financial benefits directly to communities, breaking the cycle of poverty, and fostering a more equitable society. This transformative travel trend presents a sustainable alternative to combat over-tourism by distributing the benefits across different destinations. Responsible waste management, renewable energy practices, and wildlife conservation protect the planet’s natural wonders while direct financial benefits uplift local communities, supporting infrastructural development and promoting social equality. Moreover, CT is a powerful force in preserving the intangible heritage often threatened by globalization. Ancient traditions, rituals, and languages that define the identity of communities find protection within the embrace of responsible travelers.

“Sustainability is at the heart of CT, encompassing environmental preservation, socio-economic development, and the empowerment of local residents.”

Host works infront of her house. Photo by RMT.

Development Goals

CT is a powerful driver in achieving the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), a global framework set by the United Nations to address pressing social, economic, and environmental challenges. This innovative travel trend intertwines with various SDGs, empowering communities, preserving cultural heritage, promoting economic growth, and safeguarding the environment. As we explore CT, we see how it is closely connected to a wide range of SDGs. Each step we take reveals the meaningful link between responsible travel and global dreams for a better world.

Alleviating poverty through Homestays and Guided Tours (SDG 1)

SDG 1, the first of the Sustainable Development Goals, endeavors to eradicate poverty in all its forms, aiming to ensure universal access to

fundamental necessities such as food, shelter, education, and healthcare. CT emerges as a potent change agent, empowering local communities and catalyzing economic growth. Through carefully curated CT initiatives like community experiences, travelers are invited to immerse themselves in the authentic fabric of local life, fostering genuine cultural exchanges with communities. As tourists partake in tourism-related services, ranging from immersive guided tours that showcase traditional crafts, artisans’ workshops, and culinary heritage, a direct economic impact is generated within the communities. Previously confined by the grip of poverty, residents find newfound opportunities to enhance their livelihoods, uplifting their standard of living and empowering them with financial independence. This sustainable income source uplifts the community from poverty, fosters

economic growth, and benefits local businesses and artisans. Moreover, the program prioritizes community capacity building by training in tourism management and cultural preservation, strengthening the community’s ability to develop and manage their tourism initiatives sustainably.

Ensuring access to quality and equitable education opportunities (SDG 4)

The philosophy of SDG 4, regarding the access to quality education, is rooted in the belief that education is a fundamental human right and a powerful catalyst for sustainable development and social progress. It acknowledges that access to quality education is vital for individuals to reach their full potential, fostering empowerment, critical thinking, and active citizenship. SDG 4 seeks to eliminate disparities in education, ensuring that all people, regardless

Royal Bengal Tiger, found in the Terai region of Nepal. Photo by RMT.

of their background, have equal opportunities to acquire knowledge, skills, and values needed for personal growth and contributing positively to society.

The Maasai community in Kenya offers a remarkable example of how SDG 4 can be realized through innovative and community-driven approaches. By embracing CT to showcase their cultural heritage, the Maasai have found a means to generate income along with a way to fund education facilities and scholarships for their children. Through this initiative, the Maasai community has witnessed a significant increase in school enrollment rates and improved educational outcomes, highlighting the potential of culture and tourism to drive positive educational impact. By preserving their traditions and leveraging them to support education, the Maasai community exemplifies the spirit of SDG 4 by empowering their youth and fostering inclusive and equitable access to quality education.

Evolving from the traditional roles of homemakers to community leaders, ambassadors and hosts (SDG5)

SDG 5, regarding gender equality, is a crucial global goal that seeks to eliminate discrimination and bias based on gender, empowering women and

girls to participate fully in all aspects of society. It aims to break down societal barriers and ensure equal access to opportunities, resources, and decisionmaking processes, fostering a more inclusive and equitable world.

Women-run community homestays in Nepal are a powerful testament to advancing gender equality through CT. In regions where traditional gender norms have confined women to homemaking roles, these homestays offer a transformative pathway for women to showcase their entrepreneurial spirit and leadership skills. Taking charge of their destinies, these women boldly establish and manage the homestays, becoming hosts and community ambassadors, exuding pride and passion with everything they do. As they welcome travelers into their homes, they share the richness of their local culture, defying stereotypes and proving the invaluable knowledge women bring to enrich both tourism experiences and communities. By earning income through their homestay businesses, women gain autonomy over their financial resources, reducing their dependence on male family members and challenging the prevalent patriarchal norms that have historically hindered their economic agency. This newfound economic empowerment, in turn, reshapes the dynamics within their communities

“Women-run community homestays in Nepal are a powerful testament to advancing gender equality through CT.”

and contributes significantly to promoting gender equality. Beyond financial independence, the homestay experience fosters broader empowerment, inspiring women to challenge gender norms and embrace entrepreneurship. By doing so, they play a pivotal role in breaking down gender barriers within their communities, actively participating in decision-making, and advocating for gender equality and social progress. The success of these women-run homestays aligns with SDG 5 and leaves a lasting impact on society by reshaping perceptions and expectations of women’s roles and capabilities, paving the way for a more inclusive and just world where gender equality thrives.

Visitors enjoy a Khukuri making course. Photo by RMT.

Incorporating community into the tourism value chain by creating entrepreneurial opportunities and jobs (SDG 8)

SDG 8, which advocates for decent work and economic growth, promotes sustainable economic development and fair employment opportunities. It aims to eradicate poverty, reduce inequality, and foster inclusive economies prioritizing workers’ rights, fair wages, and safe working conditions. By creating resilient economies and empowering individuals and communities, SDG 8 envisions a world where everyone has access to quality jobs and economic prosperity without compromising the wellbeing of the people or the planet.

Community homestay initiatives in Nepal embody the principles of SDG 8, involving the entire community and empowering women as leaders and entrepreneurs. By managing homestays and providing authentic cultural experiences, women break free from traditional roles, contributing to economic progress. Local guides offer exploring services, while artisans provide enriching workshop experiences. Emphasizing locally produced goods benefit grocery stores and farmers, fostering a self-reliant economy. A cooperative approach ensures equitable benefits, strengthening social cohesion and informed decision-making. To further diversify income sources, the community can explore additional tourism-related activities, invest in education and skill development, and collaborate with

nearby communities, creating resilient economic foundations aligned with sustainable growth and decent work opportunities. By embracing innovation and fostering entrepreneurship, these community driven initiatives empower women, promote inclusive economic growth and pave the way for a more equitable and prosperous future for all.

Protecting the local community forests, wild lives and ensuring harmony with nature (SDG 13)

SDG 13, which addresses climate action, embodies the crucial philosophy of taking immediate and collaborative measures to address climate change and protect our planet. It emphasizes the need for innovative and sustainable solutions to reduce greenhouse gas emissions, adapt to climate impacts, and safeguard vulnerable communities and ecosystems. SDG 13 aims to instil a sustainable and secure future for future generations by fostering global cooperation and conscious decision-making.

In the Pacific island nation of Palau, sustainable tourism practices demonstrate a proactive commitment to SDG 13 - Climate Action. Their innovative Palau Pledge requires visitors to commit to environmentally responsible behavior and cultural respect, empowering tourists to engage in climate action actively. Through community driven ecotourism activities like coral reef conservation and mangrove restoration projects, tourists are given meaningful opportunities to contribute to preserving

Palau’s delicate ecosystem. By blending tourism with climate action, Palau showcases the transformative potential of sustainable tourism in supporting SDG 13. This exemplary approach fosters environmental consciousness among visitors while ensuring that tourism positively impacts the local economy and ecosystem preservation. Such responsible travel practices set a model for other destinations worldwide, highlighting how tourism can be harnessed as a force for environmental protection and contribute to a more resilient and sustainable future for all.

CT emerges as a responsible and transformative travel paradigm, exemplifying a profound commitment to placing local communities at the heart of the tourism experience. As a potent conduit for positive change, CT aligns harmoniously with global aspirations for a more equitable and interconnected world. It represents a catalyst for addressing pressing socio-economic and environmental challenges, reflecting its resonance with broader aspirations for responsible development. By channeling financial benefits directly to communities and breaking the cycle of poverty, promoting the preservation of the environment, fostering equality both in terms of gender and economy, and fostering the values of culture and traditions, CT stands as a shining beacon, illuminating the path towards a more equitable, connected, and environmentally conscious world.

Guests in deep conversation with their host. Photo by RMT.

A Sambar deer in Chitwan. Photo by Joseph Andrew Gale.

Panauti Community Homestay

OVERVIEW

Panauti Community Homestay is a pioneering model of women-led accommodations, inspiring similar initiatives across Nepal. These dedicated women have honed essential business skills through managing around 17 host families, offering comfortable lodgings with private bedrooms, ensuite bathrooms, and Wi-Fi. Panauti Community Homestay gives travelers the perfect opportunity to catch a glimpse of the typical Nepali lifestyle while affording the convenience of not having to travel vast distances. Spectacular views range from rice fields to historic temples. Activities include hikes, culinary experiences, and witnessing morning puja ceremonies. Panauti’s unique blend of urban and rural features ensures accommodations and meals that reflect its character, tradition and heritage. Don’t miss exploring the well-preserved Triveni Ghat temple complex. For an active experience, stroll through farmlands or embark on the Panauti to Sanga Community Hike Trail. Longer hikes lead to Dhulikhel and Namo Buddha. Panauti is seemingly lush and green with a thumping village community that will remind you of simpler times gone by- exactly what your heart needs.

HOW TO GET THERE?

The journey to Panauti takes approximately 1.5 hours by private vehicle, a bit longer by bus. Buses regularly depart from Kathmandu’s Old Bus Park near Ratna Park. Additional buses pass through Banepa, offering a transfer to a local bus bound for Panauti.

EXPERIENCES AT PANAUTI

1. Panauti Bike Tour: Discover the ancient allure of Panauti, Nepal’s oldest town, replete with 15th-century temples. Our journey begins at Panauti’s bike station near the Community Homestay, leading to the Old Town’s market, Indreshwor temple, and Tri-beni ghat. After Panauti, we ascend to Om danda and proceed through orange orchards and Sun Than village en route to Khopasi. Here, a visit to the Panauti hydropower and Nepali masala tea break offers cultural immersion. Continuing through the Khopasi silk farm, we return to Panauti bike station, completing the expedition with a glimpse of history and nature’s wonders.

2. Panauti to Namobuddha Hike: Embark on a picturesque hike from Panauti to Namo Buddha, a sacred Tibetan Buddhist site and active monastery. Beginning at Panauti community homestay, the trail winds through farmland and forests, connecting you with local villagers and farmers. Ascending gradually, Namo Buddha offers stunning Himalayan views, housing a significant stupa commemorating the Buddha’s selfless act. The Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery, with its monks’ puja ceremonies, invites insight into monastic life, complemented by comfortable lodging and dining options.

Mita Karmacharya

Before the homestay, the Karmacharya family relied on her husband’s Chinese product shop and Mita’s knitted products. The 2015 earthquake and China’s border closure hindered business, leading to their switch to a homestay in 2017, boosting their income for their kids’ university savings. The family’s children were elated to engage with individuals from around the globe, gaining exposure to diverse cultures and languages.

Sabita KC

Before joining the Panauti Community Homestay, she relied on her husband’s income as a housewife. Now, she tends to similar tasks but for a broader purpose, engaging with English classes and diverse cultures. The homestay income facilitated her oldest daughter’s education in Australia.

Mina Koirala

Mina, once a housewife, depended on her husband’s pesticide business. His passing strained the family, preventing Mira from taking over due to family responsibilities. The homestay changed their lives, providing a stable income, enabling her eldest daughter’s office job, and fostering a supportive community among like-minded women.

Kirtipur Community Homestay

OVERVIEW

Kirtipur, an ancient Newari town, invites travelers to experience authentic culture through urban homestays. Kirtipur rests atop a hill near Hattiban Forest, providing valley and Himalayan views. Rich in Newari heritage, culture, and cuisine, the city stands out with its vibrant Jatras festivals, captivating streets, and historic temples like Bagh Bhairab and Chilancho Stupa. Engage in local sports, or discover tranquility at Taudaha Lake, renowned for birdwatching and scenic sunrises. Eight hospitable hosts offer private rooms with essential amenities, including bathrooms with running water and options for hot showers. Wi-Fi and pet-friendly accommodations are available, ensuring comfort and privacy.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Kirtipur is a mere 5 kilometers from the center of Kathmandu and it is conveniently accessible from all parts of the city. Public transport is abundant and it will probably take you no more than 25-30 minutes to reach Kirtipur from any part of the city.

EXPERIENCES AT KIRTIPUR

1. Ranjana Lipi: Immerse yourself in Newari culture with a unique and enjoyable experience that combines learning the intricate Ranjana Newari script with savoring delectable traditional cuisine. Led by local experts, the Ranjana Lipi workshop teaches you to write this ancient script using a bamboo pen and ink on canvas paper. Sip on a traditional Newari drink as you practice, and relish breaks with authentic Newari dishes, including the renowned Samay Baji. You’re welcomed with customary Sagun and Paa:ti, a refreshing Newar summer beverage. The gurus guide you through holding the bamboo pen, inking, and writing letters of the Ranjana Lipi alphabet. Refreshments accompany the session. Select a word to write in Ranjana Lipi, which will be framed as a keepsake.

2. Momo Making: Momo are at the epitome of Nepali cuisine and you can share the experience of making mouthwatering momos with the locals of Kirtipur. Momo making is a communal activity in the Nepali society that brings all the members of the family together and you can share the family love by making little steamed packets of love that are momos.

Ganga Devi Hayaniju Maharjan

Ganga Devi Hayaniju Maharjan, a retired teacher from a local school specializing in assisting SEE drop-outs, played a pivotal role in training Kirtipur community homestay members on establishing and managing community homestays.

Manju Maharjan

Manju Maharjan, a busy housewife, tends to household tasks while her husband operates a clothing store. Her son and daughter-in-law assist her in communicating and managing guests for the homestay.

Raj Kumar Maharjan

Raj Kumar Maharjan, a local school teacher, initiated a homestay in Kirtipur to accommodate visitors who previously only made day trips. He has been involved in the Kirtipur community homestay from the beginning, frequently assisted by his son and daughter-in-law in daily operations and guest interactions.

Sacred stupa on the way to Everest.

Photo by RMT.

ILA REDDY

Challenges Faced by Community Tourism and How They Can Be Overcome

“Community Homestay Network (CHN) in Nepal has collaborated with partners like SmartPaani to reduce the use of single-use plastic in community homestays.”

Community Tourism (CT) allows travelers to immerse themselves in local culture and form deeper connections with local communities during their travels. It makes for a viable and meaningful tourism model as it promotes livelihoods, cultural preservation, environmental protection and community development, while offering authentic and fulfilling experiences to both travelers and hosts. There is a growing demand for CT experiences, particularly in the Global South where it aids economic development. However, it comes with its fair share of challenges that need to be overcome before CT can spread its wings wider and become the norm. In this article, we explore some of these challenges and how CT initiatives in Nepal and abroad are responding to them in innovative ways.

A visitor enjoys learning farming with their hosts. Photo by Community Homestay Network.

“The process of turning a symbol of local identity – be it a cultural performance or a traditional dish – into a unique travel experience should be inspired and led by the local community members whose stories are represented through these experiences.”

Enabling ClimateConscious Tourism

With the climate crisis impacting every aspect of life including travel, CT initiatives need to quickly adapt and proactively incorporate climate action and environment-friendly practices. Proper waste management and reducing single-use plastic are two major challenges that Community homestays, in particular, need to address.

Community Homestay Network (CHN) in Nepal has collaborated with partners like SmartPaani to reduce the use of single-use plastic in Community homestays. SmartPaani is a Nepali company that designs water systems that can reduce water requirement from the municipal, groundwater, or tanker water market supply by 50-70 percent a year compared to traditional water requirements. They also conduct Water, Sanitation, and Hygiene (WASH) training for community members and support them in understanding the benefits of filtered water and reusable water bottles. Panauti Community Homestay, which is part of CHN and had attended this training, invested in a certified WHO-recommended water filters to assure travelers of water purity while reducing the use of single-use plastic water bottles.

Eating local and seasonal produce is another way to practice climateconsciousness. Tourists often seek nonlocal dishes and CT initiatives try to cater to western tastes. Promoting local cuisines and delicacies through cooking classes, food walks, farm stays, and other experiential activities can help foster greater awareness and appreciation of local, seasonal foods all the while being kinder to the environment.

Marketing Offbeat Travel Experiences

CT initiatives are marketed as immersive travel experiences. However, they run the risk of overcommercialisation under the garb of promoting and celebrating local products and culture.

“In CT models, we often see that the culture of the local community is commodified. Local cultures are rooted in the land that they are part of, but in tourism, dance, music, and cultural practices become performances that are put up as a show for an outside audience and taken out of context. This should be

questioned, “are we objectifying and commodifying the local culture or do we understand its deep roots?” asks Shivya Nath, an Indian travel writer, sustainability speaker and consultant, and founder of Climate Conscious Travel. She also highlights that poverty tourism is very common in the Global South, and it was interesting for her to come across an alternative model in South Africa where she spent time with a social enterprise that organizes skill-sharing opportunities between community members and travelers, enabling genuine interaction versus a performance.

CHN in Nepal emphasizes the importance of community participation in designing travel experiences. “The process of turning a symbol of local identity – be it a cultural performance or a traditional dish – into a unique travel experience should be inspired and led by the local community members whose stories are represented through these experiences,” says Aayusha Prasain, CEO of CHN. They have been able to successfully revive Panauti’s traditional instrument, Dhime Baja, by facilitating a threemonth workshop that not only helped revive the knowledge of playing the instrument but also provided young locals with a chance to reconnect with their cultural heritage and earn additional income, as travelers visiting the community are delighted to witness and enjoy this traditional art form. CHN has also played a pivotal role in driving other tourism activities through this participatory approach, such as Panauti Bike Station and Ranjana Lipi workshops.

Aabiskar Thapa, founder and managing director of Sharing Seeds, a non-profit organization in Nepal, presents a different challenge. “As a new and small not-for-profit community tourism organization, we don’t have qualified human resources to market our community impact and activities at a larger scale. We are also lacking funding resources for the daily operation of our organization,” he shares.

To address these challenges, Sharing Seeds is tapping into various remote volunteering platforms like Wemakechange, Chezuba, and Matchable, that connect them to volunteers from around the globe who can help with marketing, web development, fundraising, graphic design, and other requirements.

Maintaining the Quality of Service

Another challenge that CHN faces is convincing community members and hosts to invest in upgrading their homestays and services. They don’t want to do this without guaranteed guests, while guests don’t book if the infrastructure doesn’t look appealing and comfortable.

CHN is trying to address this by educating the community members about the added value of investing in improved infrastructure. For example, the hosts of Shree Antu Community Homestay took personal loans from cooperatives and financial institutions to upgrade their infrastructure so that they can provide their guests with a comfortable and authentic experience.

Hygiene is a big area of improvement for CT initiatives, especially those located in rural areas. Clean toilets, bed sheets, utensils, and overall cleanliness and hygiene are fundamental for a comfortable stay and hosts must be sensitized and supported to ensure that travelers feel at ease. Safety concerns, particularly for solo female-travelers, is another aspect that hosts can deliberate on and take proactive steps to help them feel safe.

Benefit-Sharing Among Community Members

Shivya Nath shares that, over the years, she has experienced different models of CT. It’s like a sliding scale in terms of how much the community is involved, whether the model is community-based or community-led, and what share of the benefits go back to the community. She adds that quite often the people who set up a CT initiative and the people who run it are different. Those in leadership positions are often not from the local community, while the community members are treated as mere service providers. “A communitybased initiative should be owned and led by the community. I’ve seen a community model where tourists are charged a hefty amount in pounds but the local community is paid a very meager amount in rupees. The company makes money off the community by positioning the initiative as a CTmodel, but is it really one? I’m not so sure.”

CHN tackles this issue by following an impact-driven business model. 80% of the revenue generated goes to the homestay and experience providers, while CHN receives 20% of the revenue

which covers operations and marketing costs. Of the 80%, the families hosting the travel experiences receive 80% and the remaining 20% goes to community development funds. This approach promotes local leadership, community ownership, mutual accountability, and long-term sustainability of communityled tourism initiatives.

“It’s like a sliding scale in terms of how much the community is involved, whether the model is community-based or community-led, and what share of the benefits go back to the community.”

Experiencing tea picking at Shree Antu’s lush gardens. Photo by RMT.

The Unequal Load on Women

“Organizations like CHN that follow an impact-driven business model seek to reimagine tourism as a tool to empower local communities and facilitate deeper connections between travelers and locals.”

As with housework in general, women take on an unequal load of the chores related to running CT initiatives, be it homestays or otherwise. This requires a cultural shift within the household such that other family members, including men, support and share responsibility for managing the day-to-day tasks that go into running a successful CT initiative. CHN attempts to do this by providing Gender Equality and Social Inclusion training to community members.

At the same time, women running CT initiatives has also meant social and economic empowerment for them, providing them with an additional source of income, a space to nurture their leadership abilities and interact with travelers from around the world.

Sustaining an ImpactDriven Business Model

Organizations like CHN that follow an impact-driven business model seek to reimagine tourism as a tool to empower local communities and facilitate deeper connections between travelers and locals. The community-led tourism model helps community members diversify their sources of income, preserve local heritage and culture, and gives travelers the opportunity to access unique experiences that foster adventure and exploration.

Community Tourism initiatives have tremendous potential to tap into the mainstream tourism market by offering more sustainable, innovative, and immersive travel experiences that drive socio-economic progress of local communities – making it a win-win situation for all involved.

Visitors experiment with traditional Nepali instruments. Photo by RMT.

Host runs errands on her cycle. Photo by RMT.

PRIYANKA SINGH

Breaking Down Barriers:

Planeterra’s Global Community Tourism Network

“Planeterra is the world’s leading non-profit organization using tourism to uplift communities.”

Beautiful view of the Himalayas.

Photo by RMT.

Planeterra is the world’s leading nonprofit organization using tourism to uplift communities. For the last 20 years, their efforts have centered on providing opportunities for local organizations and communities around the world to harness the benefits of tourism. Through Community Tourism (CT), Planeterra strives to see a world where people create their own economic opportunities, places are protected, and cultures are celebrated through travel. Through its work, Planeterra has successfully developed and supported over a 100 communityowned enterprises, proving that, when done right, community tourism can be a catalyst for positive change. Its work comprises the provision of capacity building training to local communities whose interests lay in building tourism related skills, granting small startup funds, and more. As Planeterra celebrates its 20th Anniversary, Planeterra’s work directly impacts around 2708 women, 825 youth and 5218 community members and has indirectly impacted over 67,852 people. These are individuals who are part of a household benefiting from tourism income and activities such as running homestays, hiking tours, cycling, meal preparation experiences, environmental conservation experiences and handicraft making. These communities receive mentorship and much needed training on aspects related to community tourism.

With the world emerging from a global pandemic, a shift for the better can be seen in travelers who want to experience meaningful encounters that create benefits for both the communities they visit, and the planet. This is where Planeterra’s community partners fit in well as they use their local knowledge to provide a world class experience that allows travelers to get a taste of the local culture while fostering respect and understanding. More often than not, community tourism experiences also have positive impacts on the environment. Some of the practices travelers can learn and apply during their visits include eating locally, consuming seasonally grown vegetables, not using single-use plastics, or eating on biodegradable plates, which used to be a common local practice among communities before the influx of plastic.

To expand support and reach more communities during the Covid-19 pandemic, Planeterra launched the Global Community Tourism Network (GCTN). This online platform offers a space for peer to peer learning and most importantly, it provides a sense of community for its members. Through

Visitor learning how to make clay jewelry. Photo by RMT.

the GCTN, communities get access to the Planeterra Learning Hub, an online learning platform that includes 30+ modules on thematic areas aimed at supporting community-led enterprises on how to successfully develop a tourism experience. These communities also get access to exclusive Facebook / WhatsApp groups for informal peer to peer sharing and the opportunity to participate and host community hours / webinars. Currently the GCTN members are at 450+ communities located in 78 countries.

In 2023, continuing with work in mentoring communities, providing start-up grants and market connectivity, Planeterra launched the second edition of the Global Community Tourism Fund (GCTF). Through the GCTN, it seeks to promote entrepreneurship and innovation for community tourism enterprises (CTEs) within the GCTN, creating the ability for them to scale up and improve existing tourism experiences with high growth and impact potential. This year Planeterra is providing grants to 18 CTEs globally! These communities will receive mentorship and guidance by our regional team members. Creating a positive impact on local communities worldwide in the last 20 years would not have been possible

without the support of donors and partners, including travel companies, service providers, and international agencies. Having forged strong strategic partnerships with extraordinary organizations such as the Community Homestay Network (CHN) is something Planeterra takes great pride in. With their passion and experience to impact lives across Nepal, CHN continues to inspire all Planeterra communities globally and provide mentorship and training to partners of the GCTN within Nepal.

CHN has onboarded 10 communities from Nepal onto the GCTN, opening up their access to the benefits associated with the network. The first-ever GCTN in-person meeting in Nepal was a matter that caused great celebration. This event, co-hosted and co-executed by CHN, marked a remarkable milestone in the advancement of CT.

One of the biggest rewards is hearing the positive feedback from community partners. Knowing that Planeterra’s work is empowering them is inspiring. One of Planeterra’s community partners in Africa says that, “I feel more confident knowing that I have access to these resources, other communities and the Planeterra Team.” This, for them, is the true power of CT.

“Having forged strong strategic partnerships with extraordinary organizations such as the Community Homestay Network (CHN) is something Planeterra takes great pride in.”

Planeterra conducting handicrafts workshop in Nepal. Photo by Planeterra.

MAYA KHAN

A Quick Introductions to Initiatives We Admire

As a publication with its eyes always turned towards the ever developing state of Nepali communities, Inside Himalayas is particularly appreciative of businesses and initiatives with a multifaceted impact on the communities within which they exist. In a world that is oversaturated with businesses whose intentions are to maximize profits regardless of the effects their modus operandi may have on their surrounding environment and communities, it comes like a breath of fresh air when we witness people who choose to approach things differently and offer a more sustainable example of how businesses and initiatives can operate. Another phenomenon greatly appreciated by Inside Himalayas is the tangible evidence of the effects of Community Tourism (CT). Inside Himalaya’s sister operation, Community Homestay Network, has been working on developing CT all over Nepal, and there have been instances in which locals have taken the initiative to establish new businesses in line with the vision they have for their their local community as prompted by the implementation of CT practices and responsible tourism. This comes to show that in time, sustainable development is an unavoidable effect of CT when it’s practiced thoroughly, and with true local involvement.

Local community members happily participating in a program by Sharing Seeds. Photo by RMT.

Sharing Seeds

Sharing seeds is a non-profit social enterprise from Pokhara that trains and employs local farmers in Organic Arabica Coffee farming and beekeeping. We also give basic sewing training to local women, who have actively been producing handicrafts with recyclable materials since then. Our goal is to show the locals that there is an alternative to becoming a laborer in foreign countries, and to tackle the ecological issue of abandoned farmlands. We offer visitors the experience of coming to our farms to see how we work, taste our products, and hike in the surrounding areas. Thanks to our operation, more than 60 people have received training to become coffee farmers and sell their product through our network. We expect 40 more to join us in the next two years. Our educational effort in regards to beekeeping and eco-consciousness has significantly reduced the use of pesticides and other harmful chemicals, and has created multiple full-time beekeeping jobs.

Nana Resort is an eco-friendly retreat near Chitwan National Park that offers sustainable jungle and culture-based activities for their visitors. We believe in the symbiotic relationship between tourism and local empowerment, so we train and employ talented people from our surrounding villages, creating new sources of livelihood for them. With a commitment to fair wages, professional development and inclusive hiring practices, a sense of ownership is fostered amongst the staff, which translates to an authentic and heartfelt customer service. As our partnerships extend to local suppliers and small businesses, we stimulate economic growth by prioritizing the local supply chain, with the goal of forging a path towards a self-sufficient and resilient community. As for environmental conservation, our well-loved gardens are habitat to native flora and fauna, which, along with our energy-efficient lighting and waste reduction initiatives, are a step towards being ecologically responsible as a business in this sector.

Panauti Bike Station and Kaula Cche

Panauti Bike station and Kaula Cche are businesses that are a direct result of the positive impacts of Community Tourism on local people. Both are located within the Panauti Community Homestay area. First, a homestay was established in its area, and its success fostered an entrepreneurial spirit in the locals of that community. Panauti Bike Station was born from the desire to establish an activity which the visitors of the homestay could partake in. Here, the visitors may rent mountain bikes and ride through hilly trails with the guidance of a local expert. Kaula Cche is a restaurant that serves traditional Newari food, initiated by a group of women who had the same desire to add a layer of authenticity to the visitors’ experience of the community. Both these operations serve as a perfect example of how Community Tourism can inspire a community to make use of their inherent knowledge and skills to generate a new revenue stream, and contribute to the charm of their community by creating a business operation that is both unique and faithful to their identity.

Beekeeping training conducted by Sharing Seeds.

Photo by RMT.

Nana Resort

Group of bikers in Panauti.

Photo by RMT.

Red Panda Network

RPN is a non-profit organization whose efforts are directed towards the conservation of the fabled red panda. Native to Nepal, among other areas, the red panda has greatly suffered from loss of habitat in the last decade. RPN is partnered with a local environmental NGO in 13 districts in Nepal, and through this network, we provide funding, training to become forest guardians. We rely on the involvement of local communities to run our programs including research and monitoring, anti-poaching guardianship, habitat protection and restoration, among other activities. A project we are particularly proud of involves habitat restoration in Ilam. Here, we purchased land that is in a key location for the wellbeing of red pandas and we donated it to the government of Nepal. We can clearly see that the population of red pandas has returned to this area after having been absent due to habitat destruction.

Tharu Community Lodge

Tharu Community Lodge is situated near Chitwan National Park. With the goal of promoting the local economy in a direct way, we predominantly employ people from the indigenous Tharu community. By giving a priority to people who are well versed in the arts of hospitality, the result is that much of the staff is composed of Tharu women, who, having years of domestic labor under their belt, are some of the most qualified people to welcome guest and make sure that their stay is wholesome. Similarly, the decisions taken by us are backed by the desire to be self-sufficient and environmentally conscious. As many activities we run are wildlife and nature based, we have a special interest in promoting a way of life that does not hinder the paths of nature.

Community Based Anti Poaching Unit (CBAPU)

The illegal poaching of animals has been a long standing issue of the wildlife of Nepal. CBAPU is a government initiated anti-poaching measure that operates in Nepal’s national parks and reserves. These are areas that are still populated with indigenous communities. These communities have a close connection to the natural environment of their home, and their livelihoods greatly depend on the wellbeing of these areas. We involve local people in patrolling against illegal activities and raising awareness on the topics of conservation, as many middlemen hire poverty stricken individuals to conduct poaching activities. Success has been seen in chasing away poacher groups, removing tiger traps and seizing hunting weapons. 2014 serves as a model year as there was zero poaching of high value wildlife such as rhinos, tigers and elephants. We are on the right path, however, the task that is being undertaken is massive, and major support from interested governmental and non-governmental parties is necessary to move forward.

Locals patrolling against illegal activities.

Photo by RMT. A red

panda looks down from a tree branch.

Photo by RMT.

Accomodation in the lodge.

Photo by RMT.

Patlekhet Community Homestay

OVERVIEW

“Far from home but close to heart” encapsulates the essence of Patlekhet Community Homestay, a serene farming village with picturesque brick farmhouses and organic ideals. In this welcoming enclave, 16 cozy accommodations provide private rooms, comfortable beds, and well-appointed bathrooms. Amid the farming landscape, enjoy authentic encounters with the hosts’ animals for a true countryside immersion.

Delicious meals crafted from local ingredients like honey, milk, vegetables, and eggs ensure a satisfying culinary experience. Patlekhet offers an accessible escape or a starting point for treks to Panauti, Namo Buddha, and Dulikhel. The remarkable hillside farmland, resembling mountains, invites invigorating walks and unveils stunning views of Mt. Jugal and Mt. Ganesh. Patlekhet’s organic farming ethos comes alive through hands-on activities, from milking cows to exploring beehives and hiking to a fruit-laden orchard. Immerse yourself in rural tranquility, forging connections with nature and the vibrant local community.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Patlekhet is situated approximately 43 kilometers from Kathmandu. Private transport typically covers the distance in around two hours, while a bus, which you can easily find from the main roads of Kathmandu, may take roughly 2-3 hours.

EXPERIENCES AT PATLEKHET

1. Cultural Program: Experience the rich cultural heritage of Patlekhet’s Bahun and Tamang communities through captivating traditional folk songs, dances, and a mesmerizing local dresses. As proud custodians of their unique traditions, these ethnic groups showcase their distinct costumes and practices, offering visitors an immersive cultural encounter. Witness the lively rhythmic tunes of the community , leaving you thoroughly entertained and inspired to create your own rhymes and rhythms.

2. Organic Farming Classes: Patlekhet stands out as a renowned organic village in Nepal, celebrated for its authentic farming traditions. Hosting families primarily rely on agriculture for income and family sustenance. Engage in an enriching organic farming class at Patlekhet, immersing yourself in diverse techniques practiced across Nepal. The experience entails a farm visit for orientation, followed by hands-on practice, guided by a knowledgeable English-speaking tutor. This approximately 4-5 hour session offers valuable insights into organic cultivation.

Goma Neupane

Previously reliant on agriculture and animal husbandry, Goma’s family found a new source of income through the community homestay. Now, half of her annual earnings come from hosting, allowing for improved education for their children.

Jamuna Devi Tamang

Jamuna operated a small highway hotel in Patlekhet, with insufficient income to educate their children. Her husband, Narayan Tamang, wholeheartedly supported her choice to establish a homestay. With the homestay’s inception, their family’s quality of life improved, alleviating concerns about their children’s education expenses.

Suna Maya

Suna Maya acknowledges that her homestay venture has been a significant source of learning. Previously, her husband worked as a carpenter, but now, with homestay income, she contributes to their family’s well-being. This newfound independence has boosted her confidence, earning admiration from her proud family.

Barauli Community Experiences

OVERVIEW

The allure of the community experiences in Barauli, near Chitwan National Park, lies in the unhurried pace of life you can share with the tharu indigenous locals. Staying in private, traditional style cottages with modern amenities, you can indulge in richly flavored authentic meals as you witness and engage with cultural dances such as Bhajayati, Thekara and Dafu. Your days will be spent on canoe rides, wildlife safaris and guided nature walks. Best visited from October to February for ideal weather and wildlife viewing.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Nestled 175 kilometers away from the bustling capital of Kathmandu, awaits the charming village if Barauli. A scenic journey of approximately 6 hours by private vehicle unveils ever-changing landscapes, and for those seeking an authentic adventure, the local bus option offers a 6-7 hour voyage. Alternatively,there is an express tourist bus departing from Sauraha, whisking you to Barauli in just 2 hours.

EXPERIENCES AT BARAULI

1. Half-Day Jeep Safari: As you traverse the rugged terrain from the open-topped Jeep, a world of wonder unfolds before you. With keen anticipation, you scan the landscape, hoping to catch a glimpse of the majestic one-horned rhinoceros, the elusive Royal Bengal Tigers, and an array of graceful deer and vibrant birds. Yet, it’s not just the sights that enthrall you; it’s the expertise of the knowledgeable naturalist accompanying you. Their insights into the animals’ behaviors and their habitat breathe life into the jungle, creating a rich tapestry of understanding. With every rustling leaf and distant call, your senses are heightened, connecting you to the untamed rhythm of nature.

2. Cycling around Chitwan National Park: Borrowing bicycles from your accommodation, a leisurely ride brings you through landscapes of emerald rice fields and quaint village lanes, with each turn revealing a glimpse into traditional homes and the vibrant spirit of the village. As you pedal, the genuine warmth of the locals welcomes you, with children’s laughter and friendly waves. The sun begins its descent, casting a golden hue upon the scenery as you approach the Narayani River. Here, a tranquil pause offers the perfect vantage point to savor a cup of Nepali chia, its soothing flavors harmonizing with the breathtaking vista. As the sun gracefully dips behind the verdant embrace of Chitwan National Park across the river, a sense of profound connection envelops you.

3. The Art of Tharu cooking: At Barauli, the heartwarming hospitality of your Tharu hostess extends beyond your plate as she welcomes you into her traditional kitchen. Guided by her expert hands, you’ll uncover the secrets of crafting a delectable Tharu feast from scratch—each step a celebration of culture and flavor. From selecting the freshest ingredients to mastering the art of seasoning, you’ll immerse yourself in an authentic cooking experience that transcends mere recipes. Whether you’re an amateur or a seasoned chef, the humble yet effective tools of the Tharu kitchen promise a unique culinary adventure. The meal is more than sustenance; it’s a tangible connection to the Tharu way of life and a feast of cultural discovery.

4. Community Stay Experience: The highlight of your stay in Barauli is living in the community homestays founded by the local Tharu people. Your immersion in their culture will be complete as you get to experience true indigenous routines and habits. When you sleep, eat and bathe as the Tharus do, you will be face to face with a truly fascinating and down-to-earth lifestyle, giving you a much needed break from modernity.

Mina Kumari Mahato

Before starting her homestay, Mina’s family income relied on a fruitful agriculture season which wasn’t always enough to support them throughout the year. Since starting her homestay, Mina has become an entrepreneur by purchasing advanced agriculture equipment to drive higher yields from her crops and is able to sell her vegetables to the community homestay kitchen. Her family’s living standard has drastically improved.

Tan Kumari Mahato

Before starting her homestay, Tan’s family had to take loans out to support themselves and their children weren’t always able to attend school. Since starting her homestay, Tan and her husband work with community homestay, are economically self-dependent, and their 2 sons and 2 daughters are able to get a better education.

Nanu Kumari Mahato

Prior to starting her homestay, Nanu’s family income relied on agriculture. Since starting her homestay, Nanu is earning more from their crops and is reinvesting in sending her kids to school. Their family have also learnt and adapted a more hygienic lifestyle.

Guest is God - The Soul of Himalayan Hospitality

RUBIK JOSHI

“ ‘Atithi Devo Bhava’ which translates to ‘Guest is God’ is a common belief across all cultures in Nepal where guests are considered to be a form of god or guest of gods themselves.”

Guests greeted with warmth and tradition. Photo by RMT.

“We can often hear the term ‘baas basnu’ when any individual requests a host to spend a night in their homes. It’s the belief in this notion of guests as a form of divinity that is reflected in many Nepali households.”

Nepal is a land of diverse ethnicities with 123 different ethnic groups to be precise, having their own set of customs and traditions. Despite this diversity there is one thing that unifies all these diverse people who proudly call themselves Nepali and Himalayan, which is their innate sense of hospitality.

‘Atithi Devo Bhava’ which translates to ‘Guest is God’ is a common belief across all cultures in Nepal where guests are considered to be a form of god or guest of gods themselves. This statement prescribes a dynamic of the guest-host relationship which includes the conventional Hindu-Buddhist ideology of treating visitors with the same reverence as a divinity.

The phrase ‘Atithi Devo Bhava’ has been extracted from the Taittiriya Upanishad (a Sanskrit text from the Vedic era), which has the following mantras in Shikshavalli I.11.2: “matrudevo bhava, mitradevo bhava, pitrudevo bhava, putradevo bhava, acharyadevo bhava, and atithidevo bhava.” “Be one for whom the mother is god, be one for whom the friend is god, be one for whom the father is god, be one for whom the child is god, be one for whom the teacher is god, and be one for whom the guest is god” is how it translates to English.

Nepal, which is known as the Abode of Gods, is not just well known for its medieval architectural haven, but it’s quite famous for its hospitality as well. If you’ve already been here, then chances are you might have experienced a wholehearted welcome into a Nepali household.

Hospitality in Nepali society is common across all castes and cultures. Nepali people put extra effort in order to serve their guests. This practice of hospitality dates back to years as we can hear old stories of travelers visiting unknown places for trade and business. Despite their anonymity, these travelers were welcomed to stay in villages with open arms. These practices are still relevant in many rural parts of Nepal. We can often hear the term ‘baas basnu’ when any individual requests a host to spend a night in their homes.

It’s the belief in this notion of guests as a form of divinity that is reflected in many Nepali households. Nepali people are often known for going out of their way to help anyone, especially their guests. Sometimes these gestures can be overwhelming for foreigners since most of them aren’t used to such kind of hospitality.

Heartfelt interactions between visitors at the community. Photo by RMT.

The Nepali Way of Greeting Guests

Nepal is an agriculture based country. Historically, and at present, the majority of its population has been involved in the agricultural profession. Since technological innovation is very rare in rural Nepal, farmers are often compelled to assist each other in their field duties. In return, they are treated with festive feasts and celebrations as a sign of gratitude. Due to this tradition, good hospitality has been an ever present characteristic of the Nepali people.

Daily life and everyday customs in Nepal are mostly influenced by aspects of Hinduism and Buddhism. Social interactions play a key role in terms of defining one’s identity here. The sense of communion is more prevalent than individualism here in Nepal. Since Nepal is home to more than 100 different ethnic groups, different communities have their own way of greeting each other. Namaste is the most commonly used greeting here.

Tobias Lopez - a resident of Germany who is married to a Nepali woman says, “as a future son-in-law to a Nepali family, I was pretty nervous about how I should behave appropriately at first. I had to be conscious about how I greeted people, what I had to say, what to do and what not to do. All worries,

however, were quickly set aside upon the first encounter. Everyone was very caring, interested, welcoming, warm and kind. While it was a tad overwhelming to get to know a big, new family with unfamiliar names and relations to one another, the delicious food and unavoidable drinks being offered by the very hospitable Newari community greatly helped to reduce any nervousness and initial distance.”

Foreigners and locals are often greeted with warm smiles and vertically joined palms accompanied by the words ‘Nah-mas-tay.’ Namaste, or a more formal Namaskar, signifies many things that vary from a welcome to a gesture of gratitude, based on the context. Another interesting fact about the Namaste gesture is that it may also vary from person to person based on their social position.

The way in which one performs the act of joining their palms and saying Namaste varies in different manners. If an individual is considered to be highly respected, then the hands are usually held high towards the chest. Apart from Namaste there are other gestures, such as bowing down and touching the feet of the elderly people, which demonstrates respect towards the elderly.

Apart from these gestures, other gestures that break the ice between Nepali people are ram ram, taremam, jojolapa, jhoralang, tashi delek, and more.

“While it was a tad overwhelming to get to know a big, new family with unfamiliar names and relations to one another, the delicious food and unavoidable drinks being offered by the very hospitable Newari community greatly helped to reduce any nervousness and initial distance.”

All these gestures signify a welcome greeting that can also be used as a conversation starter in respective communities. Other common conversation starters that you may hear in Nepal are khaja khanu bhayo (did you have breakfast/lunch), khana khanu bhayo (did you have your main meal), and sanchai hunu huncha (are you fine). It’s pretty common to be greeted with a Namaste in Nepal but there’s more to it. Garlands accompanied by red tikas are a common occurrence in Nepali households while welcoming or bidding farewell to guests or family members.

Young women perform a traditional group dance in Chitwan. Photo by RMT.

“Daily life and everyday customs in Nepal are mostly influenced by aspects of Hinduism and Buddhism. Social interactions play a key role in terms of defining one’s identity here.”

However, in Buddhist communities, you may be welcomed with Tibetan styled scarves placed around your neck. These scarves are known as khadas which are usually given to show respect. The Newari community has a different way of greeting their guests. Along with the usual practice of putting red tikas on your forehead, a red cloth that is known as kokha is put around your neck followed by an offering of Sagun - which is a a blessing consisting of boiled eggs, dried fish, lentil pancakes, and local raksi. In some parts of Nepal, especially in the highlands, a welcoming gesture includes touching of foreheads.

In special cases, five young girls known as Panchakanya welcome important guests. The girls, who represent the five most revered women in Hinduism, are meant to be virgins. They frequently drape a flower garland around the welcomed guest’s neck. Special visitors are greeted with cheering, horn blowing, and drumming in certain towns. In other circumstances, all it takes to receive such a reception is to be a foreigner in a hamlet that hasn’t seen a visitor in a long time.

Apart from the welcoming gesture, there are a lot of things that a guest should be mindful of about the Nepali hospitality. Consider this as your ultimate guide to the pahuna (guest) culture of Nepal.

Mind your Head

The head is considered to be one of the highest parts of the human body, both literally and religiously. Since the upper part of the body is considered more sacred than the lower, many South Asians wear lucky charms in their shirt pockets rather than their trousers pockets. According to Riga Vedic scriptures used to support the caste system, the head of the original man gave birth to the highest castes while the feet gave birth to the lowest. Hence, it is not recommended to pat or touch anyone’s head without consent.

Shoes Outside, Please

To start off with the basics, when you enter any Nepali household make sure to take off your shoes before entering any indoor space. Nepali people value cleanliness based on the influence of their social and religious customs. Cleaning the house is a regular errand in many households. The housewives are expected to clean the house every morning as a part of a traditional belief. However, this notion seems to have changed over the years with both partners sharing equal responsibilities in the house; especially in urban areas. Despite having such an attitude towards cleanliness, it’s normal to see people spitting on the streets.

Host cooks with traditional utensils. Photo by RMT.

“Handshakes aren’t that common in Nepali culture. Nepalese people are quite reserved when it comes to showing intimacy through physical touch.”

Namaste, Not Handshakes

Handshakes aren’t that common in Nepali culture. Nepali people are quite reserved when it comes to showing intimacy through physical touch. You may notice close friends with their arms placed around each other’s shoulder or even hugging each other in some cases. However, you’ll rarely see people of opposite sex having such physical contact with each other. Even married couples are not encouraged to show public displays of affection since it’s considered immoral to show such behavior.

A Family that Eats Together Stays Together

When it comes to serving food, Nepali families usually dine together with the female members serving food on the table. Even during feasts and celebrations, guests can be seen sitting in lines with their legs crossed and foods being served to them by the hosts in a leaf plate. This traditional practice of feasting is known as sukubhwe or bhoj, in general. Having said that, buffets have become a standard practice for many Nepalese people residing in the city area. But it is still an uncommon practice in many Nepalese households.

Food Speaks Louder than Emotions

Nepalese people aren’t that expressive when it comes to showing their emotions and dissatisfaction. The

culture of showing respect towards their elders often compels people to remain silent during discussions between elders. They also often avoid eye contact during conversations since direct eye contact towards their seniors is considered disrespectful. Hence, they often use food as a means to show their love language. So, the next time you’re offered food by any Nepali family, consider that as an appreciation for your presence in their household.

Superstitions to be Mindful of in Nepal

Nepal, as a society, values social hierarchies a lot and has its social fabric structured around the caste system. Despite losing its essence to modernity, you may still witness such practices in many parts of rural Nepal. Superstitious beliefs are another key aspect of the Nepali culture even when it comes to hospitable practices. Here are some interesting stereotypical beliefs still practiced in the Nepali culture;

• Whenever you eat something with your hand or your hand comes in contact with your mouth in any instance, Nepali people use the term jutho which implies ritual impurity. You’re not allowed to touch anything in the kitchen or the prayer room without washing your hands. Yes, Nepali people have a dedicated space to pray in their house. This belief in jutho is so strong that even when Nepalese people drink water, they make sure that they don’t touch the

tip of the bottle or container with their lips.

If you’re a lefty, then brace yourself and read this next point. In Nepal, the right hand signifies auspicious aura whereas the left hand is considered ritually impure. Since many Nepali people prefer using their hands to eat, they’d use their right hands. Even while receiving something, you’re expected to use your right hand. In some cases, using both hands to receive something is also considered as a sign of respect.

• Handing over chillies or pepper directly is considered a bad omen

since there is a belief it might arouse arguments between the people involved.

• Whistling inside someone’s household is considered disrespectful as Nepali people believe that it will invite bad souls, devils, and ghosts into their house.

• It is customary to touch someone’s feet as a symbol of reverence and, frequently, subservience. Some women will kiss their husbands’ or their in-laws’ feet. Touching the feet is seen as a gesture of respect because they are the lowest and dirtiest part of the body. Also, do make sure not to

point the soles of your feet towards anyone since it may offend them.

Stepping over any type of deity, god figure or object used in worship is viewed as extremely disrespectful. Do not descend the stairs until they have passed you if someone is carrying these items as you can be viewed as stepping over the item if you do. Also do make sure not to step over someone’s outstretched legs either.

No matter how absurd some of these credences may sound, it’s these aspects of the Nepali culture that makes it stand out. Many tourists visit Nepal

Happy visitors after being welcomed by hosts of Narchyang. Photo by RMT.

“Establishing homestays in a community is a great initiative in terms of cultural preservation; especially in a country like Nepal, which is so reliant on the tourism industry for its economic growth.”

to witness these practices. However, as modernization has taken over the world these cultural practices and traditions are slowly losing their value. Commercialization has taken over most parts of the cities resulting in the abandonment of the Nepalese cultural heritage. Lack of proper management by the concerned authorities have also resulted in many temples and medieval structures being left to rot under the rubbles of modern buildings.

But there’s still hope as efforts are being made to revive these old architectural buildings along with the preservation of Nepali culture. Restoration of old medieval structures is ongoing with the aim of making it sustain for the long run. Similarly, involvement of youths in age old cultural

practices is another step that has been taken to prevent the culture from dying out. Another such alternative for these preservation efforts is the establishment of homestays in different communities.

Establishing homestays in a community is a great initiative in terms of cultural preservation; especially in a country like Nepal, which is so reliant on the tourism industry for its economic growth. The impacts of commercial tourism has become evident over the years with businesses aiming to expand their operations without any regard for the local communities and its surroundings. Exploitation of resources, dying cultures, vandalism (in extreme cases), overcrowded destinations and pollution, are some of the negative impacts that commercial tourism can have in a society.

It’s high time tourists and local stakeholders adopt a more sustainable approach towards tourism. The whole essence of tourism lies in the natural beauty of a particular destination accompanied by its pure culture. Tourism is not just about night life and posh hotels, it’s more than that. It’s an opportunity to immerse in authentic cultures and learn new things from each other. Community Homestay Network (CHN) is an initiative that has been established with the aim of bridging the gap between Community initialives like homestays and travelers, both domestic and international. With the aim of promoting Community Tourism (CT) and uplifting the economic status of the local people, CHN has been operating since 2012 in almost 36 communities across Nepal.

Jyoti Shreshta, a resident of Panauti and one of the hosts of the community homestay program, says, “thanks to our homestays, Panauti is becoming a popular destination in our country. The establishment of homestays has helped the women in our community as they feel empowered through various training programs. We’ve also witnessed an enhancement in our quality of life. It’s good to see the appreciation of our culture, traditions, and food. New businesses have been established like Kaula Chhen (place for Newari food) and Panauti Bike Station. Having homestays has supported the needy people from our community.”

She further adds, “whenever guests visit us they enjoy their stay here because they get to witness and participate in

our cultural practices. The revival of Dhimey Baja is one of many examples of the positive impacts that the homestays have had in here.”

Well, if you intend to learn more about a country’s culture it’s important to have those cultures preserved in the first place. Staged cultural dances, fancy swimming pools with a view of the mountains, a jacuzzi, a private bar. will only give you luxury without authenticity. Hence, it’s important to make conscious decisions if you intend to travel responsibly. If you’re really interested in experiencing the authentic culture of hospitality in Nepal, you know what to do on your next trip.

Visitors enjoy a Nepali meal after a cooking class. Photo by RMT.

Community Experiences

Tharu Cultural Program Bardiya

An evening filled with the joy of local dance and music performed by young Tharu men and women. Learn about Tharu culture through this fun and lighthearted way, by engaging in conversations and partaking in the dances. Immersed in folk stories, this is an evening that will stay with you forever.

Night Stay at Machhan Bardiya

Your dreams of being part of the forest come to life as you spend a thrilling night in a watchtower, where the sounds of the nocturnal birds envelop you, and the wild animals prowl the forest floor. With an expert guide as your companion, this is a golden opportunity to learn about the many inhabitants of this rich land.

Paubha Painting

Patan, Kathmandu

The artistically inclined have the opportunity to learn the basics of the ancient and sacred art of Paubha painting. The three hour introduction can be the first glimpse into this fascinating element of Newari culture. This course can unlock an interest that will open up a lifetime of study of meditation and art.

Stone Carving Workshop

Patan, Kathmandu

The stonemasons of Patan keep alive a legacy of artistic heritage that is a source of immense pride for the locals. Not only will you have the opportunity to speak with them and learn the basics of stone carving, but you will also bring home a memento made with your very own hands.

Spend half the day riding through one of the oldest towns of Nepal. The route will take you through the monuments, orange farms, and another small town close by, ending with a guided tour of a silk farm. The leisurely pace will allow for tea and water breaks while taking in the scenery.

Mask making Workshop

Bhaktapur

You will learn about the significance of masks in Newari culture while working on your own little masterpiece. Delving into the variety of materials and colors used to make masks, you will also learn about the mythology that lays behind the deities and demons you will be forging.

This 10km hike starts in Sanga, a brahminic community, goes through an ethnic tamang village and ends in Panauti, a well preserved Newari town. Its moderate intensity welcomes people of any degree of fitness all the while allowing for a majestic view of the Himalayas.

Mithila Painting

Bhaktapur

This form of folk art originates from the southern region of Nepal, and is illustrative of rituals and myths belonging to the Mithila people. Using archaic tools such as twigs and fingertips, the craftspeople will introduce you to the world of natural pigments, giving you the opportunity to experiment with the bold, naif style yourself.

Panauti Bike tour

Panauti

Community Hike Sanga to Panauti

Panauti

Hemjakot

Shree

Hemjakot

Community Experiences

Wood Carving Bhaktapur

Bhaktapur’s legacy of intricate woodwork is kept alive today by craftspeople who dedicate their lives to learning and teaching this artistic heritage. After a hearty Newari meal, a guided wood carving session awaits you, where the masters of the crafts show you a peek into their world and legacy.

Discover Ranjana Lipi

Kirtipur, Kathmandu

Dive deep into Newari culture during a lesson on the Ranjana Lipi, the ancient Newari script. While you use a bamboo pen on canvas to follow the strokes of your teacher, you will be served a refreshing local drink and delicious Newari snacks.

Tharu Dance with Dinner

Barauli, Chitwan

Story telling, dancing and music is deeply incorporated into the daily lives of Tharu people. While the locals cook you up a local feast, you have the opportunity to interact with Tharu hosts, observing their folk dance performances, which you are welcome to join.

Cycling around Narayani River

Barauli, Chitwan

The bike tour will take you along the banks of the Narayani river, where the stunning national park serves as your backdrop. As you ride, your guide will tell you stories of how life is in Barauli. The hour-long ride is achievable by people of all fitness levels.

Community and Cuisine

Hemjakot, Pokhara

At the foothills of Mt.Machapuchre, Hemjakot is a charming, multiethnic, village. This experience brings you into the heart of Nepali hospitality. After being welcomed into the homestay, you will enjoy a loving, homemade meal. You will have the opportunity to converse with the host and exchange stories, as the great mountain listens in.

Coffee and Countryside

Sarangkot, Pokhara

One of the best kept secrets of Nepal is the quality of the coffee it produces. Journey into the world of organic coffee farming on the foothills of the Himalayas, where Sharing Seeds works as both a farm and a social initiative. This tour will bring you in touch with the impact of this initiative, all the while enjoying an insightful experience on coffee.

Mo:mo Making

Kirtipur, Kathmandu

While all local food has space in everyone’s hearts, mo:mo holds its own particularly special spot. Learning how to make mo:mo is a skill you will want to bring back home. The kind housewives of Kirtipur will teach you the art of mo:mo making, a relatively simple dish which requires some technique.

Community Yoga Hike

Nagarkot, Kathmandu

Accompanied by a group of likeminded individuals, this guided hike in the hills surrounding Kathmandu promises a relaxing yoga session in the deep nature, followed by a lunch. This regenerating experience offers an opportunity to make friends, relax your body and spirit, and work up a little sweat.

POOJA AKULA

“This extraordinary route took me through the diverse landscapes of Nepal, encompassing flatlands, lush forests, picturesque tea plantations, rolling hills, and serene lakes.”

The author enjoys the view from Dhankuta. Photo by Pooja Akula.

While most travelers choose to traverse the magnificent Himalayas of Nepal, I embarked on a journey off the beaten path during my monthlong exploration of the country. This extraordinary route took me through the diverse landscapes of Nepal, encompassing flatlands, lush forests, picturesque tea plantations, rolling hills, and serene lakes. Each moment was filled with excitement and wonder. Beginning and ending in the bustling city of Kathmandu, my adventure comprised a circuit that involved two domestic flights to and from the Koshi province of Nepal - first to Biratnagar, and the return flight from Bhadrapur.

Known for its flatlands, the Terai region, as the locals call it, lies in close proximity to the Indian state of Bihar. As I soared above, I was in awe of the gradual transition from hills to fields sprawling out beneath me. This shattered my preconceived notion of Nepal being solely a land of hills and

“Legend has it that Dhankuta was a favored summer retreat for Nepal’s royal families.”

snow-capped mountains, replacing it with the realization that the country is indeed made up of a tapestry of topographies. With its stark difference from hilly and mountainous regions in Nepal, the Terai offers an experience marked by its distinct and unique cultures, along with opening up a new range of imagery to associate with the country.

In between the two flights, my sojourn was a remarkable road trip. I had the quintessential experience to have in a foreign land as I traversed areas of the country, going from city alleys to remote hamlets. The freedom to meander through these varied landscapes was an unparalleled delight. Throughout my journey, there was one particular stop that left an indelible mark on my memory—Dhankuta, a quaint hill town nestled in the Dhankuta District of Eastern Nepal.

Legend has it that Dhankuta was a favored summer retreat for Nepal’s royal families. Upon setting foot in this charming town, I soon discovered why. The distinctive appearance of Dhankuta unfolds as a vivid landscape painted in shades of orange, with ancient houses perched on top meandering hill roads. This region was once blessed with abundant orange groves, capable of satiating the appetite of the entire nation and even exporting surplus produce. Today, the orange town evokes

nostalgic memories of a bygone era, as shifting lifestyles, changing topography, and technological advancements have contributed to a decline in orange cultivation.

As I wandered the streets of Dhankuta, I couldn’t help but notice the enchanting lanterns adorning the quaint balconies of the traditional wooden houses. These captivating lanterns were meticulously crafted by the local Newar community, symbolizing their vibrant presence in Dhankuta. The town also boasts orange houses adorned with Om symbols, a testament to its Hindu heritage. Each corner of Dhankuta reveals a blend of architectural beauty and cultural significance.

Beneath the open skies of Dhankuta, a sea of towering pine trees embraces the land, creating a mesmerizing forest that adds to the town’s allure. The serenity of the greenery, accompanied by the harmonious humming of birds, casts a spell on visitors. To truly immerse oneself in the wilderness of Dhankuta, a leisurely stroll through the dense forest of tall salla (pine) trees is a must. The sheer magnificence of nature in this region never fails to captivate the soul.

One of the highlights of my visit was exploring the vibrant local market, known as the haat which comes alive every Thursday. The haat offers a delightful feast for the senses, with an

The alleys of Dhankuta. Photo by Pooja Akula.

“Amidst the breathtaking landscapes and cultural treasures, my most cherished memories were forged during my stay at a community homestay in Dhankuta.”

array of delectable goodies enticing visitors to indulge in the flavors of Dhankuta. The market is a testament to the region’s vibrant culture and provides an opportunity to engage with the friendly locals, learn about their traditions, and sample authentic Nepali cuisine. Dhankuta also serves as a haven for those seeking spiritual solace, with a plethora of temples in close proximity. These places of worship exude an aura of serenity and offer a space for introspection and reflection amidst the natural beauty that surrounds them. I had the privilege of witnessing the enchanting evening aarti rituals at Nishan Bhagwati, a revered temple in Dhankuta. Held every day at 6:30 PM, these rituals offered a profound spiritual experience. The temple, maintained by

the Nepal Army, has a unique tradition where women are not permitted to step within its sacred grounds. However, women are warmly welcomed to attend and actively participate in the aarti rituals within the temple premises.

Amidst the breathtaking landscapes and cultural treasures, my most cherished memories were forged during my stay at a community homestay in Dhankuta. While numerous hotels in the town center provide comfortable accommodations, I was drawn to the allure of experiencing the local way of life. The homestay, nestled a few kilometers away from the bustling center, offered a glimpse into the lives of a warm and hospitable family. The house, constructed with a harmonious blend of stone, wood, and cement,

Walking through the orange houses of Dhankuta. Photo by Pooja Akula.

appeared as if it had sprung from the pages of a storybook. The entrance was adorned with vibrant gardens on both sides, guiding me towards the main entrance. A cozy open-air dining table outside the house served as a meeting place for bonding with the family—husband, wife, and their two children—who also owned a nearby residence. The family of four exuded a genuine simplicity in their way of life, and their warm acceptance of me touched my heart deeply. They graciously invited me into their lives and generously shared anecdotes from their own experiences. We connected on a profound level as they expressed their interest in hosting guests from distant lands, and we even exchanged food recipes. During our conversations, we explored the shared cultural threads between Nepal and India, particularly discussing the significance of dal (lentils) in both cuisines and how it is prepared differently across various regions. Despite their struggles to communicate fluently in Hindi and English, their broken words and efforts to engage in conversation forged a strong bond between us.

Another day of exploration led me to the enchanting hill station of Hile, situated at a higher altitude along the same stretch of road. The most striking aspect was the rapid transformation of weather within a mere 15 kilometers. A sunlit day in Dhankuta was swiftly engulfed by gray clouds and misty streets as I ventured into Hile. The town is instantly recognizable by the imposing structure of a traditional tongba Jar—a vessel used for a milletbased alcoholic beverage—that stands proudly at its crossroads. Hile’s tongba and sukuti (dried meat) are renowned throughout the region, attracting locals and tourists alike.

As I concluded my journey through Dhankuta, I couldn’t help but reflect on the myriad experiences that had left an indelible mark on my soul. The vibrant colors, the rich cultural heritage, the warm hospitality of the locals, and the ethereal beauty of the natural landscapes all came together to create

During my stay, I had the opportunity to participate in various farm activities, not only within their own land but also in neighboring farms. I was introduced to the six neighboring households, each with its own farmland, garden, and verandah. The presence of domestic animals such as cows, goats, hens, dogs, turkeys, and even quails added to the idyllic charm. I vividly recall the joy of collecting quail eggs from their enclosures—an experience that filled me with childlike wonder. Witnessing the sheer amount of labor and dedication required for farming, animal husbandry, and soil fertilization left me in awe of their daily toil. Theirs was a simple yet arduous existence, where even the simplest tasks, such as acquiring detergent powder, entailed traveling a few kilometers into the city.

a tapestry of memories that will forever be cherished. Among the memories that will undoubtedly remain etched in my mind, one stands out vividly— the experience of gathering quail eggs from their cages. It was a completely novel activity for me, and I must have collected at least five of those tiny, adorable, albeit pungent, eggs. Initially, I felt a bit uneasy, unsure of what to expect. However, immersing myself in this farm activity, under the guidance of my hospitable homestay host, turned out to be a truly special and memorable experience. Dhankuta, with its timeless charm, is an enchanting gem tucked away in the eastern corner of Nepal, waiting to be discovered by intrepid travelers seeking a unique and immersive experience.

Looking back on my time in Dhankuta and my overall journey through Eastern Nepal, I can’t help but feel a profound sense of fulfillment as a traveler. The experiences I had, the connections I made, and the breathtaking landscapes I witnessed have ignited a deep joy within the core of my being.The memories I’ve created and the adventures I’ve embarked upon have only scratched the surface of what this remarkable place has to offer. I find solace in knowing that my journey is far from over, and I eagerly await the day when I can once again immerse myself in the wonders of Nepal, ready to create new chapters in the story of my travels.

View of Cholung Park in Dhankuta. Photo by Pooja Akula.

Developing Responsible Tourism through Water Harvesting Solution In Dhankuta

“As travelers continue to explore this hidden gem, they can expect to find an evolving destination where they can engage with local communities, learn about traditions, and experience the beautiful landscape.”

Dhankuta is situated within the Nibuwa Tankhuwa Watershed Area, in the Lower Koshi River Basin (LKRB). It is one of the most promising destinations in Eastern Nepal, rich in natural and cultural heritage. With a long history of ancient trades, it is set against beautiful landscapes and inhabited by friendly and hospitable people. However, Dhankuta is one of the most vulnerable districts to the impacts of climate change. In particular, climate shocks such as water scarcity are becoming a serious environmental issue here.

To respond to climatic issues in Dhankuta, the International Center

for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD) has initiated a pilot intervention informed by integrated watershed management. This pilot intervention stands on the strong pillar of collaborative partnership between multiple stakeholders within the tourism industry, namely, Dhankuta Municipality, Chhathar Jorpati Rural Municipality, Community Homestay Network (CHN), SmartPaani, Human Rights Social Awareness and Development Center (HUSADEC) and the local communities. The intervention’s aim is to turn Dhankuta into a climate resilient destination where

the livelihoods of those depending on tourism, mainly women and indigenous peoples, are secure against climate shocks. Thanks to the collaborative partnership, this project can be approached with the principles behind responsible tourism development, where the issue of water scarcity is addressed and solved through solutions that are green, water smart and Gender Equality, Disability and Social Inclusion (GEDSI) responsive.

The project is being carried out in two phases, and is currently approaching the beginning of the second phase. First, the collaborative partners

Water recharge point established en route Dhoje Danda in Dhankuta. Photo by Pooja Akula.

carried out a study aimed to inform the decisions taken in the later stages of the project. Having investigated integrated watershed management, this study helped design and develop Dhankuta as a GEDSI responsive, climate and water smart destination. The partners also conducted activities related to responsible tourism including capacity building and training programs, exposure visits, awareness and sensitisation programs.

Dhankuta Municipality, Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA), ICIMOD and local tourism organizations also organized events such as the Destination Management Conclave. The activities performed during this project were developed based on the experiences of CHN, Smart Paani and HUSADEC, in working with various communities in the space of homestays establishment, management, marketing and promotion, as well as setting up water smart technologies, local level mobilization and coordination.

During the second phase of the project, capacity-building programs are focused towards developing the operational skills of the community homestay hosts. Trial assessments will also be conducted to promote naturebased activities. Furthermore, an

indigenous festival will be organized where the local culture of Dhankuta and its features as a sustainable tourism destination will be promoted through various content creators and travel agents.

CHN is mainly involved in educating and training stakeholders regarding responsible tourism, with a special focus on building homestays from scratch, and supporting them to kickstart nature-based tourism activities in Dhankuta. On the other hand, ICIMOD is integrating multiple solutions that are green, resilient, and GEDSI responsive. For this, Smart Paani and HUSADEC work closely with CHN, springshed management committees, ward level government, local women and the Aathpahariya community to link tourism development with a range of water harvesting solutions which empower women and indigenous communities.

This systematic and dynamic approach is crucial to make Dhankuta a responsible tourism destination with relevant ecosystems such as naturebased activities, homestays, community empowering businesses and markets, and integrated nature-based solutions. The multi-stakeholder partnership consortium helped leverage technical,

financial and intellectual resources to ensure an effective, collaborative partnership and ownership among all the involved entities.

Dhankuta holds immense promise as a touristic destination where travelers will be able to explore the authenticity of the local culture and enjoy nature in its most pristine form. The journey of responsible tourism development in this destination is just beginning. The coming together of the stakeholders, the weighing of the benefits and costs of tourism development in Dhankuta from the very phase of inception shows the importance of building and promoting the destination responsibly. With climate-smart solutions such as water harvesting and other sustainable tourism practices, Dhankuta aims to address water scarcity issues all the while providing economic relief to its inhabitants. As travelers continue to explore this hidden gem, they can expect to find an evolving destination where they can engage with local communities, learn about traditions, and experience the beautiful landscape. Dhankuta will offer more than just a tourist experience, it will provide an opportunity to be part of a journey toward sustainability and inclusivity.

Guests connecting with Athpahariya women in Dhankuta. Photo by Pooja Akula.

Avata Wellness Center’s Community Yoga Hike is more than just a trek; it’s a way to boost community well-being and make a real difference. With a mix of yoga, meditation, and nature in Nepal’s beautiful landscapes, our journey is guided by experts and shared among everyone. In peaceful natural spots, our guided meditation sessions aim for more than personal calm—we explore local communities in Champadevi, Dhulikhel and Nagarkot, making connections and leaving positive vibes. Come join us in this journey where wellness isn’t just for us; it’s for everyone we meet along the way.

Avata Wellness Center has remained dedicated to nurturing well-being, serving as an oasis for the mind, body, and spirit. Our goal is to cultivate a world where individuals unite in pursuit of comprehensive wellness. We’re committed to making healthy lifestyle choices accessible to everyone.

Bardiya: A Haven for Wildlife

“By staying with a local host family, visitors can learn about the culture and experience a lifestyle they wouldn’t have been exposed to otherwise.”

A Royal Bengal tiger spotted in Bardiya. Photo by RMT.

Bardiya is a district located in the western Terai region of Nepal and is known for its rich biodiversity and cultural diversity. The district is home to a number of protected areas which include Bardiya National Park and many surrounding community forests, home to a variety of wildlife such as the Royal Bengal Tiger, Asian Elephant, Gharial crocodiles, one-horned rhino, and many species of birds. The local community is mainly composed of the Tharu people. These indigenous inhabitants of the region have a rich history as a tribe of hunter-gatheres. They are nature worshipers, with close similarities to other animistic populations around the world. The Tharu people have put effort into developing sustainable tourism in the area, and the impact has been positive for both the environment and the local people.

Community Tourism and Local Empowerment - the Involvement of Women and Youth:

The impact of community tourism in Bardiya has been significant, particularly in terms of local empowerment. The development of the Bardiya Community Homestay program has provided an avenue for the Tharu communities to showcase their rich culture and traditions to

visitors while generating income for their families. This has empowered the locals, particularly women and youths, who are now trained to be homestay hosts, prepare meals for guests, and participate in environmental conservation activities.

The community homestay program has empowered women by providing them with employment opportunities and a means of generating income. The homestay hosts have been trained to prepare traditional meals, giving visitors a chance to indulge in the local cuisine. This has allowed women to use their pre-existing skills and knowledge to earn a livelihood and interact with people from different parts of the world. The majority of the hosts in the community homestay program are women. While they were active in the running of their home and family, this was not seen as an economic activity, as the domestic labor of women often goes unnoticed or undervalued. After taking part in the program, most of their day continues to be occupied with similar domestic chores, however those chores are now recognised as proper work, and it contributes to the family’s income significantly. With the addition of adapting their meals and home environment for the guests, the women who host homestays can evolve their roles in the family and community without leaving the comfort and safety

“The development of the Bardiya Community Homestay program has provided an avenue for the Tharu communities to showcase their rich culture and traditions to visitors while generating income for their families.”

Traditional dance performances at Bardiya Community Homestay. Photo by RMT.

of their own homes. Women, mainly housewives, frequently report that they are reluctant to seek work outside of their house for a multitude of reasons, such as fear of not being able to be as attentive to the running of their own home and children, or they are not willing to travel too far to reach the location of their job, or maybe they are not confident in their skills, all of which are more often than not a nonissue when they become host in the community homestay program.

By staying with a local host family, visitors can learn about the culture and experience a lifestyle they wouldn’t have been exposed to otherwise. The involvement of the youth in the homestay program has been equally important. The program has provided them with opportunities to participate in conservation activities such as bird watching, tree planting, and organic farming.

Since Community Tourism (CT) initiatives promote sustainable practices that benefit the wildlife in the national parks, the local communities have not only realized the importance of the natural world, but are actively interested in preserving it for future generations. This comes as a stark difference to the exploitative mindset that has sadly grown in the past generations when it comes to natural resources such as forests and animals, which have long been subjected to unregulated cutting down and poaching. After participating in conservation activities and welcoming tourists to do the same, the youths in these local communities are imbued with a newfound appreciation and sense of responsibility towards the natural world their community has coexisted with for generations. Besides this, working with both national and international tourists has helped them gain tangible skills such as good communication, teamwork, problem solving, along with experience in their specific field, all of which will stay with them for the rest of their lives.

An inspiring example of youth involvement in conservation in Bardiya is the Community-Based AntiPoaching Unit (CBAPU). This group of young people works tirelessly to protect the wildlife and forests in the community. They patrol the community forest regularly to prevent poaching and illegal logging. They are actively involved in raising awareness among the locals about conservation issues. As a result of their successful monitoring of the area, and their actions against

Hosts from Bardiya adorning their cultural dress. Photo by RMT.

“The youth of Bardiya have gained a sense of pride and ownership in the conservation efforts of their local flora and fauna.”

Young visitors enjoying a safari experience.

Photo by RMT.

illegal activities, the wildlife population in Bardiya has increased significantly in recent years. For example, the fact that the tiger population in Bardiya increased by 125 in 2023 became a global news segment. Their hard work and dedication have earned them the respect and admiration of the entire community, and have permanently changed the narrative of the disinvolved youth. Through their involvement in CBAPU, the youth of Bardiya have gained a sense of pride and ownership in the conservation efforts of their local flora and fauna. This is not only an essential contribution to their society, it is also an action that directly opens up a number of future career paths for the youth in the field of conservation, and any study related to wildlife. This comes to show that given the right opportunities and support, the will and energy possessed by the youth can play a vital role in the development of a community, and in bullying a sustainable future for everyone. Moreover, CT initiatives such as community homestays have promoted sustainable practices that benefit the local communities and the wildlife in the national park. These benefits include the establishment of livelihoods that incorporate the locals’ inherent skills and knowledge. The number of nature guides, naturalists, safari drivers, conservationists and other economic activities that rely on nature such as wildlife resorts and hotels have boomed in recent years. Even though the indigenous Tharu people of this region have always lived side by side with the wildlife of the Terai, the recent surge of problems caused by urbanization has increased the incidence of the human. animal conflict. Factors such as loss of habitat have blurred boundaries between humans and wild animals, boundaries which used to be like an unspoken understanding between the two. A problem that is increasing is the fact that wild animals such as elephants destroy entire fields of crops. Issues such as this have planted a seed of animosity between humans and animals. The establishment of wildlife based tourism activities have reignited tolerance, as hand in hand with tourism, conservation campaigns have also been established. With education and conflict mitigation programs, the locals have realized the importance of wildlife, and the importance of protecting it for the future generations. Therefore, they have come up with ways

to coexist with wildlife while promoting conservation. The CT practices have helped to spread awareness among visitors about the importance of conservation and the need to protect the environment too. In addition to providing employment opportunities and promoting sustainable practices, CT has also helped to preserve the community forests and wildlife in the area. The Tharu communities have a long history of living in harmony with the natural environment, and through CT, they have been able to share their knowledge and practices with visitors while also promoting conservation. The congruence between the Tharu peoples identity and the founding concepts of CT in relation to sustainability is evident through the passion and sense of initiative present within the community homestays hosted by the Tharu.

How to Get to Bardiya?

For travelers planning to visit Bardiya National Park in Nepal, there are two main transportation options: by air or by land.

By Air:

The nearest airport to Bardiya National Park is Nepalgunj Airport, which is approximately 80 kilometers away. From Kathmandu, there are multiple daily flights available to Nepalgunj Airport. There is also one flight per day from Pokhara. Once you arrive at Nepalgunj Airport, you can either hire a taxi or take a bus to reach Thakurdward Chowk at Bardiya, which is approximately 80 kilometers away and takes around 2 hours to reach.

By Land:

If you prefer to travel by land, regular bus services are available from Kathmandu and Pokhara to Bardiya National Park. The journey takes approximately 12 hours from Kathmandu and 8 hours from Pokhara. Alternatively, you can hire a private vehicle or rent a car to reach Bardiya National Park.

What to Expect in Different Seasons

Winter (December-February):

Winter is the driest and coldest season in Bardiya. The temperature can drop down to 10°C, making it an excellent time to go on a jungle safari. The vegetation is less dense, making it easier to spot

wildlife. You can also enjoy camping, hiking, and bird-watching during this time. However, the cold weather can be challenging, so make sure to pack warm clothes and gear.

Spring (March-May):

Spring is the best time to visit Bardiya if you are a bird enthusiast. The weather is warm and pleasant, with temperatures ranging from 18°C to 32°C. The park is filled with colorful flowers and trees, making it a perfect time for nature walks and hikes. The wildlife is also active during this time so you can see tigers, rhinos, and elephants in their natural habitats.

Monsoon (June-August):

Monsoon season in Bardiya brings heavy rainfall, making it difficult to move around the park. However, this is the best time to see the lush green vegetation and abundant waterfalls. You can also witness the unique mating behavior of tigers during this time. The

weather can be humid, so be prepared to deal with mosquitos and other insects.

Autumn (September-November):

Autumn is the peak tourist season in Bardiya. The weather is pleasant, with temperatures ranging from 18°C to 32°C. The park is teeming with wildlife, making it the best time to go on a jungle safari. You can also experience the local culture and festivals during this time. However, the park can get crowded, so make sure to book your accommodations in advance.

Accommodation Options in Bardiya

If you’re planning a visit to Bardiya National Park in Nepal, it’s important to choose the right accommodation to ensure a comfortable and enjoyable stay. Here are the top 3 accommodation options in Bardiya:

Community Homestay:

For travelers seeking an authentic experience, community homestays are an excellent choice. You’ll stay with a local family, who will provide you with home-cooked meals and share their culture and traditions with you. The community homestay program is designed to benefit the local community, so you can feel good about supporting sustainable tourism.

Private Homestay:

Another great option for those looking for a more personal touch is a private homestay. You’ll stay with a local family in their home, but with more privacy than a community homestay. Many private homestays offer comfortable rooms and homecooked meals, as well as the chance to interact with your hosts and learn more about their way of life.

Tourism Activities and Experiences in Bardiya

“Another exciting experience for travelers visiting Bardiya is a night stay at a Machan (Tree House) in the community forest.”

Resorts and Hotels:

Bardiya National Park offers a range of resorts and hotels, from budget-friendly options to luxury accommodations. These properties provide a comfortable and convenient base for exploring the park, with amenities such as swimming pools, restaurants, and guided tours. Some popular options include the Rhino Lodge Bardiya, Bardiya Forest Resort, and the Tiger Tops Karnali Lodge.

Bardiya is a popular destination for travelers seeking adventure and natural beauty. One of the key features of Bardiya is the Bardiya National Park, which is a vast protected area that covers an area of over 968 square kilometers. The park is home to a wide range of wildlife, including tigers, elephants, rhinos, crocodiles, and many more. Visitors to Bardiya can enjoy a variety of activities within the park, including jungle safaris, birdwatching, and elephant rides.

One of the unique features of tourism in Bardiya is the CT practices that have been developed in the area. The Bardiya Community Homestay program is an initiative where locals provide accommodation and meals to visitors in their homes. This program offers a unique and authentic local living experience, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the local culture and lifestyle.

Another exciting experience for travelers visiting Bardiya is a night stay at a Machan (Tree House) in the community forest. This experience allows visitors to sleep in a treehouse, surrounded by nature and the sounds of the forest at night. Visitors can enjoy a peaceful and relaxing night’s sleep, waking up to the beautiful sights and sounds of the forest in the morning.

Tharu cultural programs and homestays are also available, offering visitors a chance to experience firsthand the rich culture and traditions of the Tharu people. The indigenous Tharu people, who have lived in the Terai region for centuries, continue to practice cultural activities and way of life that are unique, adding to the fascination of Bardiya.

Overall, Bardiya offers visitors a wide range of tourism activities and features, from wildlife safaris to cultural experiences and CT initiatives. With its stunning natural beauty and unique cultural heritage, Bardiya is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in exploring the beauty and diversity of Nepal.

Mugger Crocodiles can be spotted frequently in Bardiya. Photo by RMT.

An exceptional sunset in Bardiya.

Photo by RMT.

Rana Tharu Community Homestay

OVERVIEW

Located beside Suklaphanta National Park in the far west of Nepal, Rana Tharu Community Homestay invites you to immerse yourself in the heartwarming traditions of the Rana Tharu people. With eight homes offering purpose-built rooms adorned with colorful flowers and attached bathrooms, you’ll find comfort amidst simplicity. As you witness their unique language, dances, and beautifully embroidered attire, you can engage in their communal spirit, where extended families share labor, income, and cuisine prepared with love. The allure of Suklaphanta National Park offers encounters with an array of wildlife, from deer to tigers, amid lush grasslands and Sal forests.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Rana Tharu Community Homestay is 700 kilometers to the West of Kathmandu. A road trip would take approximately 14 hours by a private vehicle and 16 hours via bus. The other option is also to take a flight to Dhangadhi Airport and then take a scenic drive through traditional settlements until you reach the community.

EXPERIENCES AT RANA THARU

1. Cooking class: This culinary journey unveils more than just gastronomic delights – it’s an immersive exploration of flavors, traditions, and narratives. As you wield your knife, stir aromatic spices, and orchestrate sizzling creations, you’ll not only unlock the intricacies of Nepali flavors but also cultivate a profound connection with the local way of life. Engaging dialogues with your hospitable hosts will unfurl the stories woven into each dish, offering insights into food’s pivotal role in Nepali existence, festivities, and heritage. As you bid adieu to the cooking class, you’ll carry more than recipes; you’ll embrace a newfound reverence for the tastes that define Nepal.

2. Farming activities: A cornerstone of family unity, nearly every household nurtures their own lush green havens, cultivating vibrant vegetables right at their doorstep. This age-old practice unites generations under one purpose –tending to these verdant patches, a source of sustenance and shared joy. A poignant familial rite, the young ones discover the essence of cultivation in these intimate plots, a skillset that matures into a lifeline of agricultural prowess as they grow. Venture forth to partake in this enchanting ritual, getting your hands into the earth and reaping the rewards side by side with your gracious host family. Witness the first light breaking through the soil and feel the thrill of harvesting organic treasures, which will grace your dinner table with flavorsome wholesomeness.

Kalishe Rana

Kaishe Rana was once extremely reserved, missing out on opportunities to engage with people. However, thanks to the homestay, she has gained confidence to converse openly with others and proudly share her cultural heritage through organized cultural events. The homestay also brings in a substantial income, allowing her to offer her children improved education. Through the homestay, she has also developed an understanding of the significance of hygiene and tourism.

Seuntola Rana

Previously reliant on agriculture, Seuntola and her family’s income was meager. Since starting their homestay, significant transformations have occurred. They now enjoy a steady income stream, providing better education for their children and reducing their reliance solely on her husband’s earnings. Sunita envisions a promising future for her family through sustainable community homestays, fostering improved education, accommodation, and accessibility. Engaging with guests has enriched her knowledge, eliminating the need for her husband to seek work outside the home.

Gomati Rana

Prior to opening their homestay, Sunita and her family primarily relied on income from agriculture. However, this source was limited and frequently insufficient. The initiation of the homestay has led to significant shifts in her life. She now possesses an additional income stream that supports quality education for her children and reduces their sole dependence on her husband’s earnings.

Tharu Sonaha Community Homestay

OVERVIEW

Discover the enchanting Tharu and Sonaha cultures of Nepal’s Western Terai as you embrace an immersive stay along the idyllic banks of the Kauriala River, near the fringes of Bardiya National Park. Marked by vibrant dances, authentic cuisine, and unique practices like Sonaha gold panning, the hospitality here is like no other. Engage in river rafting on the Karnali River and take leisurely canoe rides, wander through nearby wetlands, explore Tikapur Park and Bardiya National Park, and witness the delicate balance between conservation and traditional livelihoods. This off-the-beaten-path adventure promises an intimate Nepali experience intertwined with wildlife encounters, making it an unforgettable journey for culture and nature enthusiasts alike. Choose the cooler months from September to April for an optimal visit to this captivating lowland region.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Tharu- Sonaha Community Homestay is around 600 kilometers from Kathmandu. It is located near the town of Daulatpur. Like all of Far Western Nepal, the gateway to Tharu- Sonaha via air is Dhangadhi Airport from where the guests can take a vehicle back East to the Community Homestay. If road travel is preferred, private or public transport can be chosen which can take anywhere from 14-16 hours.

EXPERIENCES AT THARU SONAHA

1. Cooking class: Engaging dialogues with your gracious hosts will unveil the captivating tales interwoven with each dish, revealing the profound role of food in Nepali existence – from everyday moments to jubilant celebrations. With farewells, you’ll carry beyond recipes, a newfound reverence for Nepal’s essence encapsulated in its flavors. This gastronomic escapade leaves a lingering imprint – not merely a satiated appetite, but a heart brimming with admiration for Nepal’s vibrant cultural mosaic, shared delectably, one bite at a time.

2. Farming activities: In almost every corner of Nepal, humble homesteads burgeon with thriving vegetable patches, where time-honored practices unite families. Gathering beneath the open sky, generations converge to nurture these lush plots, weaving bonds as strong as the vines they tend. Become a part of this vibrant agricultural heritage, plunging your hands into the earth, breaking ground, and partaking in the harvest. Your efforts bear the fruits of connection and sustenance, as the sun-kissed bounty graces your evening meal, offering a taste of both tradition and health – a true embodiment of the nurturing spirit of Nepal’s rural heartland.

Parbati Sonaha

Parbati Sonaha is a determined mother who overcame hurdles to educate her children. Limited income from farming made schooling a challenge. With the opportunity of a homestay, things changed. Her husband joined in, balancing homestay management with his regular work. Initial struggles eased with help from Community Homestay Network, leading to stability. The extra income enabled better education and improved finances. Proud homestay members now, they embody the success of community support.

Pramila Sonaha

Pramila Sohana’s journey started with shyness, missing chances to embrace her Tharu heritage. But the homestay changed that. Now, she confidently interacts and showcases her culture through cultural events. The homestay isn’t just about culture; it’s also a source of income, giving her children better education. She’s learned about hygiene and tourism too, proving that the homestay has transformed her life in more ways than one.

Jugmani Tharuni

Jugmani Tharuni’s story began with dependence on agricultural income, which often fell short. But the homestay brought about many changes in her life. With a new source of income, she ensures her children receive quality education. No longer entirely dependent on her husband’s earnings, the homestay has opened doors to financial stability and better opportunities for her family.

Tibetan cultural dance performed by youth.

Photo by RMT.

MARISSA TAYLOR

The Women of the High Himalayas

“But from where I sit, I see a

valley

of pine trees, neatly stacked in lines one after the other under a fresh blue sky. There is a quietness in the air that you can only find in the mountains, and I am glad I did the hike.”

The sun is out now and warm on my face. I take off my shoes and wet socks and let my wrinkled toes breathe. I sit down and take a deep breath, filling my lungs with crisp mountain air. I am exhausted but feel triumphant.

I have been walking steadily for the past couple of hours, climbing a steep uphill, lugging at my trekking bag that is completely drenched from the downpour of the day before. When I took a bus from Kathmandu to Salleri, the headquarters of the Solukhumbu district, a week before, I had no inkling of the adventure that awaited me. I had come here to report on a story but here I was: perched on top of a ridge, wrapping up a two-day hike through forests, waterfalls, and a thunderstorm.

But from where I sit, I see a valley of pine trees, neatly stacked in lines one after the other under a fresh blue sky. There is a quietness in the air that you can only find in the mountains, and I am glad I did the hike. Just then, however, my dream gets interrupted. An airplane comes into the picture out of nowhere, first the size of a tiny bird and then becoming bigger and bigger as it comes closer. It feels as though it is coming right at me and roars as it flies just a few meters above me and heads towards the airport in Lukla. I let out an audible gasp.

Himalayan woman smiles.

Photo by RMT.

Suma Sherpa laughs at my reaction. She’s used to airplanes swooshing above her home here in Lukla. She has lived here her whole life, all six decades. In fact, she’s older than the airport itself, which started operations only in 1971.

“Sometimes during peak season, when the weather is good, almost 50-60 planes come in a day!” she says.

Lukla, which is the gateway to the Everest region, is touted as one of the most dangerous airports in the world, and I see why. I have a flight to catch out of Lukla to Kathmandu in a couple of days and I am already nervous.

Suma herself has never taken a flight in her life, and perhaps never will. She is a Sherpa woman, native to the region, and was born in Lukla. She has lived her whole life here and worked primarily as a farmer. Now, she is too old to do so, and her sons’ wives do the toiling, she says. Her husband died a long time ago and all her three sons work as trekking guides. With her sons, their wives and children, Sherpa has nine members in her family to feed. Although she can’t work the fields, she’s the one in charge. And this is often the case. During my travels to rural communities in the mountains of Nepal and in the plains as a journalist, I have found that this is a phenomenon that is common: the men are forced to stay away from home to make money and the women are bound to take charge of the house and the family – a responsibility that is by no means easy, especially when new challenges like the Covid-19 crisis and climate change have disrupted life recently.

“It’s been two continuous years that we’ve had poor production in our fields. Last year was really difficult for us to sustain ourselves, especially with Covid-19 putting all my three sons out of a job. This year too, things look grim for us,” she tells me.

Before walking to Lukla, I had been walking around Solukhumbu, talking to women like Suma. I am writing about the effects climate change has had on mountainous communities in the Everest region in regards to agriculture. I focus on agriculture because apart from tourism and mountain climbing, it is the region’s main source of sustenance.

Farming at an altitude that starts from around 2,000 meters above sea level is not easy. The Everest region is particularly tricky because the weather is notoriously unpredictable – sunny one minute and pouring the next, especially in the lower regions in this mountainous district.

Himalayan women frequently bask in the sun with their prayer beads. Photo by RMT.

“The humble potato is hardy and grows easily, providing mountainous communities with a steady source of nutrition throughout the year. But the crop is under serious threat owing to erratic rain patterns.”

To give you an example, just a few days ago, I was in Pattale, a small village downstream. The morning was sunny but by noon the rain started pattering, just as Purna Maya Magar finished heating up some rilduk for me in her home. The kitchen fire has warmed the entire room and the smell of burning firewood and the timmur from the rilduk linger in the air. Rilduk is a traditional Sherpa dish made by mashing and pounding potatoes until they acquire a thick, chewy texture. They are then molded into small balls and cooked into a warm, hearty stew, making it the perfect meal for chilly evenings.

Almost every family makes rilduk here. It is the perfect dish to eat, especially in the cold. The potatoes fill you up and the thick soup and timmur keeps the body warm.

But rilduk is not the only dish Magar makes from potatoes. She uses potatoes in almost everything she makes — meat and vegetables, even adding it into flour to make aloo roti, which she eats with ghee and chilli paste.

“No meal is complete without potatoes in these cold regions. Once winter sets in, we’ll have little else to depend on besides potatoes,” said 46-year-old Magar, a resident of Pattale, Solukhumbu.

Potatoes are a staple food crop here in the village of Pattale in Solukhumbu district, much like everywhere else in the mountains of Nepal. And its importance in the diets of the locals cannot be stressed enough. The humble potato is hardy and grows easily, providing mountainous communities with a steady source of nutrition throughout the year. But the crop is under serious threat owing to erratic rain patterns.

A little higher up, in Phaplu, the situation is similar.

“Last year, the drought decimated our potato harvest,” said 72-year-old Doma Lama. “Even the year before, potato production wasn’t that great.”

She too, like Suma, is too old to work in the fields now, so her younger son and his wife tend to their potatoes. Her elder son is in Malaysia, working at a construction site. Lama herself has never left Phaplu, and has witnessed changes in the climate firsthand.

Such instances of erratic rain and extreme weather events, like heat waves, storms and droughts, are becoming more frequent and intense over the years, threatening every aspect of human life. This reality is more stark in the Himalaya. And the brunt is often

Elderly women chat as they enjoy the sun. Photo by RMT.

being faced by women like Doma and Suma, who are actually living the harsh reality of the climate crisis without having any role to play in it.

Being under the shadow of Everest, the mean temperature rise in this region has been higher than the global average. According to a report by ICIMOD, from 1951 to 2010, while the global average temperature rise was 0.6 degrees Celsius, it was 1.5 degrees Celsius in the Hindu Kush Himalaya region. Other studies on temperature trends in Nepal have also identified more of an increase in annual mean and annual maximum temperature at higher altitudes than that of at lower altitudes.

And this change is already being felt by locals across the region, particularly as you gain elevation.

A few hours walk from Namche

Bazaar is the beautiful village of Khumjung. Days in April in the village of Khumjung in the Sagarmatha National Park are blissful. Stone houses and fields are tidily lined up on either side of stone pavements and there’s an uninterrupted view of some of the world’s most beautiful mountains — the Lhotse, Ama Dablam and Thamserku.

Khumjung doesn’t necessarily fall on popular trails like the Everest Base Camp trail and the trek to Gokyo Ri and thus doesn’t have many trekkers coming its way. With few trekkers, business for lodge owners is limited here, so the men mostly work as porters and guides and the women stay back to take care of the house and work in the fields.

But there is not much to do in the fields during these months either as it is not planting season yet. For now, the

women spend their days cutting grass and collecting leaves in the nearby forests to feed the cattle.

“My granddaughter goes to the forest almost every day and brings the grass to feed our cattle. Without it, we have nothing to feed our cattle,” says Pema Sherpa, 66, a resident of Khumjung, who runs a small souvenir shop.

As is evident, no matter where you go, it is only the women and children staying back in most villages – living with harsh living conditions day in and out, displaying a silent resilience nobody really talks about. In many ways, I see a glimpse of my own mother in the women of Everest: strong, loving, and unwavering, working hard to put food on the table every day without any glory or repayment.

When we talk about the Everest

Woman weaves a traditional textile, a much-loved activity on the Himalayas. Photo by RMT.

“She tells me her woes: how the rent is skyrocketing in Lukla and if she had received an education, perhaps her life would be different, but this is the life.”

region, we see the place from the lens of a trekker or a mountaineer. The region’s mountains, lush pine forests, and gushing white rivers are magnificent no doubt but its people – particularly these women – is what make a place beautiful, a home.

Back in Lukla, after I bid goodbye to Suma, I look for myself a lodge with a hot shower. After changing into the last remaining pair of dry clothes I have, I head out for a light walk around the small settlement.

I find some local chyyang and aloo roti with ghee and chilli paste, which is an absolute must-try dish, at a small joint. I get talking to the woman running the small joint. I don’t ask her name. She’s not from Solukhumbu, but from neighboring Okhaldhunga, and is here in Lukla to make some money.

She tells me her woes: how the rent is skyrocketing in Lukla and if she had received an education, perhaps her life would be different, but this is the life she’s received and she’s the best she can.

I tell her my story briefly too. About being a journalist, how I came to Solukhumbu to follow a story. I then tell her about my adventure: of how I ended up heading to a place called Khari Khola from Salleri but got dropped midway because a landslide obstructed the path and the jeep could not go any further. How I had then walked through leech-ridden forests completely alone in the middle of a thunderstorm for five hours until I reached the place. Only to walk another 10 hours the next two days to reach Lukla.

If you’re wondering, the trail is absolutely beautiful with lush forests

and gorgeous waterfalls. As most people fly straight to Lukla, the trail is mostly abandoned and you will only meet locals occasionally on the way. Kharikhola stands charismatic to anyone who is passing through.

It was my first solo travel experience in the mountains and I was ecstatic sharing my details. I don’t know if the woman at the tiny eatery understood my excitement or my job, but she listened attentively and kindly. As I left, I felt grateful for the delicious aloo roti and her company, and hoped the days that followed were kind to her too.

The morning after, as I left on a plane with other nervous tourists, I left with a happy ache in my heart and the wish to come back again. This time with no story to pursue but just to embrace the beauty of the place, and its people.

MAYA KHAN

The Economic Resilience of Himalayan Tourism

The Himalayas may sound like a far-away land inhabited by ancient, mystical sages, yetis and mountain spirits. This notion is not entirely wrong, but it creates the misconception that the Himalayas are a region that is, and always has been, isolated from the rest of the globe, with no footprint on world history, culture, and economy. From as early as before recorded history in Nepal, the Himalayas have been a boiling pot for global trade and cultural exchange, and the impact of the Himalayan people can still be felt in Eurasian arts, religions, cultures, and most of all, economies. Thanks to the positioning of these mountains, they have been a transit point and center of trade, with its inhabitants being economically active, decisive and innovative. The relation between the Himalayas and the rest of the world has been rather constant from the beginning of time to the moment in which industrialisation evolved the world permanently. Since then, life on the mountains has been changing, and with it, so has the climate, the weather and everything in between.

To gain an in-depth understanding of the Himalayan economy and how recent shifts in the climate have been affecting it, Inside Himalayas met with Dr. Anu Kumari Lama, expert in sustainable mountain tourism and climate action. Her current work with the International Center for Integrated Mountain Development (ICIMOD), along with her two decades of experience, has made her a treasure trove of information when it comes to the history of the Himalayan economy, its present state, and its future projections in consideration of the massive impact climate change will have on it.

A hamlet in Mustang with well preserved traditional architecture. Photo by RMT.

One must be aware of the pivotal role the Himalayan region had in providing raw materials to the global market. For instance, the Kali Gandaki region of Nepal, where Mustang is located, is home to the Salt Route, one of the most ancient trading routes known to humankind.

A woman does the dishes outside her home in Upper Mustang.

Photo by RMT.

To begin with, one must be aware of the pivotal role the Himalayan region had in providing raw materials to the global market. For instance, the Kali Gandaki region of Nepal, where Mustang is located, is home to the Salt Route, one of the most ancient trading routes known to humankind. Archaeological evidence found in Mustang and surrounding areas suggest that not only was a great variety of raw materials making its way out to the world through there, but artifacts made of materials extremely exotic to the region were found in excavation sites. The inhabitants of these high altitude regions used to travel to lower lands and exchange Himalayan rock salt with grains and other commodities, an activity which some present day populations still subsist on. Incredibly enough, these ancient trades continued up to the point in which the world became too industrialized for these remote, smaller scale productions to remain central in the market of raw materials. As the speed of production and demand grew exponentially, the people from the Himalayan regions had to learn a different way of sustaining their lives. The scale of the modern economy, the speed of production, the ever growing supply chain was far too great for the

Himalayas to keep up with. Suddenly its lack of accessibility became an issue, and it truly began to feel isolated and with little to offer to the global economy.

As the 1950’s saw the beginning of the influx of foreign visitors to Nepal, the descendants of these ancient traders had the opportunity to turn towards the tourism sector to earn their livelihood, a business which they greatly depend on to this day, and will probably continue to rely on for the foreseeable future. Thus, the economy of these tall but young mountains has irrevocably shifted from being that of global trade of goods such as salt and grains, to that of services like tourism. After the dry spell brought over by the industrialisation of more developed countries, tourism came as the second chance for the Himalayan peoples to be part of the global economy. Now, instead of trading in salt and grains, they are trading their time, knowledge and service.

Some livelihoods however, have remained constant through time and apparently unaffected by global industrialisation. Agriculture and animal husbandry are activities that have always existed on the Himalayas, and they remain relevant to this day. The farming of potatoes and apples, along

“Thus, the economy of these tall but young mountains has irrevocably shifted from being that of global trade of goods such as salt and grains, to that of services like tourism.”

A woman tends to her home in Upper Mustang. Photo by RMT.

with certain grains such as millet and buckwheat greatly contributes to the subsistence of high altitude populations. They rely on yaks, Himalayan goats and mules for transport, wool and leather, dairy products and meat, as well as fuel. Those who are privileged also own horses. A small number of people may depend on governamental employment, but the rest depend on the land. The relationship between humankind and the climate has always been dynamic, with the climate being a determining factor for every single aspect of their lives. The harshness of the climate, climate variability and change, have made the high altitude populations learn how to live a waste free life, and out of necessity, their subsistence mentality has taught them how to make the most out of the natural resources available to them. The organization of society, the way life is structured here is directly influenced by nature’s clock. The Himalayas have always been a place where life revolves around the ever shifting moods of the skies, where one moment can be sunny and the next can stir up a wind storm. The people indigenous to the region are well versed in these moods, and have adapted their daily, seasonal, and yearly routines with them, because even though they change in the blink of an eye, the

patterns of the weather and the climate were somewhat foreseeable. This was true up until a few years ago, but now, everything has changed, and there is nothing that can be predictable anymore. The rains fall at strange times, and the winds blow when they used to be quiet. This has thrown off the delicate balance between the indigenous communities and the natural, atmospheric world.

In the past, all of the infrastructures and assets were built so that they would be resilient to the climate, but now, they have to be reconsidered so that they may withstand the erratic behavior of the rain. For example, trans-himalayan regions used to welcome a total of 200 - 250 mm per year, but now, phenomena such as cloudburst are subjecting the region to heavy rains causing flash floods and landslides. This affects the entirety of their lives, as such extreme events are becoming a new normal. With the pattern of the monsoons shifting, intense and erratic rain caused by cloudburst, the situation in the Himalayas is of great concern.

Similarly, the topic of water is of great importance to the delicate ecosystems of the high Himalayas. At this point, the melting of the glaciers is a known fact to everyone. At first the melting of the glaciers will cause a major influx of

water into sources such as rivers, but in time, this will be countered by extreme water scarcity. As everywhere else in the world, humans in this region have also mainly settled in areas close to rivers. The first surge of water influx will definitely damage the infrastructures closest to the flow of water, with experts like Dr.Lama predicting tragic loss of life in these zones. It is imperative for the people living and owning infrastructures in these danger zones to be informed of the future disaster predictions, and the people who are just now settling and building homes and business must consider such factors to future proof their lives and investments. It is one thing for researchers and scientists to know these facts in the comfort of their offices in Kathmandu, but it is another to spread the information to the people that will be primarily and imminently affected by this, and provide the means for them to adapt to this danger. It is important to understand that all of these issues are interrelated, and they are not only of concern to the indigenous people of the Himalayas. They are a global problem, and they must be approached at a global level. Local, grassroot aid can do little to help prevent disasters of this scale. Some steps that people investing in the Himalayan region must take are

High altitude Phoksundo lake in Dolpa. Photo by Traverart.

undergoing risk assessments with the perspective of climate resilience, using materials that are a hybrid of vernacular knowledge and modern technologies and insuring their assets.

It is a sad truth that Himalayan women may be the ones who are the most affected by these changes when it comes to their mental health. The indigenous women of the Himalayas have always been powerful. From being some of the main decision makers in their families, to being entrepreneurial in their businesses and being emancipated financially and mentally, these women have never remained passive. Their managerial roles in society have made them the powerhouse of the Himalayas, and historically their go-getting spirit has marked a clear difference between them and the women of most other Nepali communities. It is perhaps thanks to a more encouraging social climate, with religion and its norms imposed onto women playing a role in it, that makes Himalayan women more assertive and less restricted by societal taboos. However, a point of similarity they have with Nepali women from other communities, is that in the present time, they are left to fend for themselves all on their own, as a large number of husbands, fathers, brothers and sons are forced to leave the villages in search of employment and better education either in Kathmandu, or in foreign countries. The mental burden created by this

loneliness is not relieved by the erratic climate of these days. On the contrary, women find themselves taking on to their shoulders worries that are larger than the world, and they do not have a way of finding solace from their tensions.

For these women, a ray of hope has entered their lives through the popularity of homestays. This has helped them supplement their income through assets and skills already available to them. From providing relief from food insecurity, exposing them to a variety of cultures, and rekindling their entrepreneurial spirit, Himalayan women have welcomed the homestay economy with open arms. With the concept of homestays closely aligning with their inherent culture of hospitality, the women of the Himalayas have only had to learn a few things to adapt their homes for the welcoming of visitors. These things can range from learning western standards of cleanliness and hygiene, to learning how to cook for different pallets. The contrast between a family run enterprise to a commercial business has made homestays a more approachable stream of revenue for high-altitude indigenous women since their identity as homemakers, their true caring and familiarity with the culture comes through in the detailed attention they give to making their visitors feel welcome and curious of their space, history and culture.

“It is a sad truth that Himalayan women may be the ones who are the most affected by these changes when it comes to their mental health.”

While the topic of Himalayas history and its present day situation can be dug into with great depth and considered through a variety of lenses, Dr.Lama poses an important concluding question: how deeply does a country like Nepal and its community have to think about the issue of tourism in relation to climate change. For people who rely on tourism for their financial and mental freedom, climate change becomes an existential issue. How can this issue be brought to the attention of the right people, people who perhaps do not understand the gravity and urgency of the situation but are in charge of policy making nonetheless. The indigenous people of the Himalayas have always been resilient, but how can they become climate resilient now and in the future?

Tiji festival in Mustang. Photo by RMT.

An ancient settlement in Kanchanjuga. Photo by Traverart.

Narchyang Community Homestay

OVERVIEW

Narchyang in Mustang, is where tranquility meets breathtaking landscapes, free from the typical hustle and bustle of more touristic destinations in the Annapurna region. With a temperate climate, from the occasional summer rainfall, to the ideal seasons of late September to early December and late March to late May and Welcomed by the Magar community, immersed in rural simplicity with cozy rooms, delicious local meals and charming paved alleys lined with orange trees, Narchyang is the ideal destination for a serene escapade.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Narchyang Community Homestay is situated in the former kingdom of Mustang. The gateway to Mustang is Pokhara which is 200 Kilometers from Kathmandu. The first stretch of the journey is from Pokhara to Jomson, over 160 kilometers of distance, and the second stretch is of 11 kilometers, from Jomsom to Narchyang. If one wants to avoid road travel, two flights can be taken. One from Pokhara to Kathmandu and then another one from Pokhara to Jomsom Airport.

EXPERIENCES AT NARCHYANG

1. Visit to waterfall: Just a short stroll away from your Narchyang homestay, lies a local holy site, a haven of spirituality that offers a glimpse into the village’s soul. As you walk through the ancient settlements of Mustang, with incredible vistas along the way, you will reach the fabled Narchyang waterfall, and three sacred temples nearby. Guided by a knowledgeable local, you can make a day out of listening to the stories of the region, the sound of the waterfall and the beauty of your surroundings.

2. Cooking class: This cooking class offers more than just a meal – it’s a hands-on exploration of flavors, traditions, and stories.As you chop, stir, and sizzle your way through the recipes, you’ll not only discover the nuances of Nepali flavors but also forge a deeper connection with the local culture. Engaging conversations with your hosts will unravel the stories behind each dish, sharing insights into the role of food in Nepali life, celebrations, and traditions. As you bid farewell to the cooking class, you’ll carry not just recipes, but a newfound appreciation for the flavors that define Nepal.

Dil Kumari Buduja

Dil Kumari’s family relies on agriculture for income, with her occasionally assisting her husband in the fields. She initially launched the homestay with dreams of hosting trekkers, but COVID-19 impacted her business, causing a downturn. However, with tourism’s gradual return, she holds hope for future guest hosting opportunities and that the homestay will provide an additional income source that will support their family of four.

Premati Garbuja

Premati and her family find their sustenance in agriculture. As a new member to the community homestay, they are filled with optimism and hopes of hosting travelers. She believes that by offering good facilities, they can attract the attention of travelers who typically bypass their village and hopes to establish tourism in Narchyang.

Jhapmati Tilija

Jhapmati is a housewife and her husband works in the fields to provide for the family. Motivated by the aspiration to supplement their income and contribute to their household, she established her own homestay. The initial year proved challenging due to the COVID-19 pandemic. With the news of trekkers coming back in the Annapurna region, her optimism is rekindled as she looks forward to hosting these travelers and others who venture to the area.

Bhada Community Homestay

OVERVIEW

This hidden gem is strategically positioned between the pristine realms of Bardiya National Park and Shuklaphanta National Park, offering a unique wildlife encounter far from the crowds. Embrace the simplicity of homestay living in spacious traditional houses that mirror the warmth of Thatu hospitality. Engage with the vibrant community as you witness farming activities and explore the tranquil surroundings. Through collaboration with local women, the homestay empowers and uplifts, offering a rare chance to interact with ordinary Nepali women. Bhada unveils the Terai’s allure, complete with impressive temples, serene lakes, and captivating architecture. Choose the cooler months of October to February for a comfortable journey into this lesser-traveled terrain, escaping the scorching heat of summer and monsoon.

HOW TO GET THERE?

Bhada Community Homestay is a mere 18 kilometers from Dhangadi which can be reached via flight or by road. Dhangadi is around 650 Kilometers away from Kathmandu and can be accessed by a 15 hour bus ride or a short flight.

EXPERIENCES

AT BHADA

1. Farming activities: In Nepal, the cultivation of lush green vegetables within the embrace of one’s homestead is an enduring legacy, uniting generations in the joy of tilling the soil and nurturing crops. This sacred family ritual not only fosters togetherness but also imparts invaluable farming wisdom to the young, shaping future agriculturists. Venture into this timeless practice, where your hands will meet the soil, breaking its embrace and sowing the seeds of connection. Discover the art of organic cultivation as you tend to the earth and harvest bountiful, healthful produce. Later, as the sun dips below the horizon, the labor of your hands transforms into a nourishing feast, inviting you to savor the flavors of your shared endeavor, a wholesome reminder of the simple joys and sustenance that spring from the earth’s embrace.

2. Cooking class: This culinary experience promises an experience where you connect closely to your hosts as you prepare local dishes and experiment with new and fresh ingredients. From the simple act of chopping an onion to the more complex manner indigenous ingredients are handled, you can dive deep into the heart of the culture by coming face to face with its most fundamental element, food.

Ram Kumari Chaudhary

Ram Kumari, a devoted homemaker, once relied on her husband’s modest income. Through the homestay venture, she learned handicraft skills, supplementing their earnings from agriculture with guest hosting and sales. This diversified income now covers daily needs and education expenses, bringing contentment and improved living standards, including better accommodation and accessibility, to their home.

Padma Chaudhary

Prior to initiating the homestay, Padma and her family primarily relied on income from agriculture. Since commencing the homestay, substantial changes have occurred. She now possesses an additional income source that supports quality education for her children, alleviating their complete reliance on her husband’s earnings.

Basanti Chaudhary

Basanti, a mother, faced challenges sending her children to school due to their limited income from agriculture. Assisting her husband in the fields, the family endured economic hardships. The homestay venture provided a chance to diversify earnings, which Basanti readily embraced. Her husband now also helps manage the homestay alongside his usual occupation. While initially overwhelmed, support from the Community Homestay Network alleviated their burden, leading to financial stability. The homestay income enabled them to provide quality education for their children and improve their economic status. They’re delighted to be part of the homestay community.

Hemjakot, a scenic village near Pokhara.

Photo by RMT.

Into the Fuzzscape: Exploring The Sounds of Nepal

AISHWARYA BAIDAR

“Fuzzscape is a series that captures the musical cultures in different communities of Nepal.”

Dafa Bhajan Khala from Taksar plays bhajans in Newa, Nepali and sometimes also Maithali, keeping to the traditions of their ancestoral home in Patan.

Photo by Nirman Shrestha.

“We interact with the communities in depth to learn about their history, the geopolitics and socio-cultural aspects of the region.”

Fuzzscape is a series that captures the musical cultures in different communities of Nepal. First launched on YouTube by Fuzz Factory Productions in 2016, Fuzzscape is the journey of a group of friends, who also happen to be highly skilled creative professionals, as they embark on journeys across Nepal finding ways in which they can connect and collaborate with local communities, with the goal of creating musical art inspired by their cultures, stories and traditional sounds. They have produced seven videos since, with each episode bringing the viewer into a new destination and community, documenting both the research and travel behind the journey, and the music that comes out of it.

It started off as an escape for this bunch of friends looking to make music outside of the comforts of city life in Kathmandu. In time, it evolved into an archival project that documents intangible cultural heritage through music and film. Rajan Shrestha, Rohit Shakya, Prasit Sthapit make up the core team of Fuzzscape, however, they are backed by different collaborators in each episode, without which their journey and research would have

been impossible. Together, they have ventured through mountains and plains, all the way from east to West Nepal, looking for the vernacular sounds of the land and its people, and chronicling it all in their evermore fascinating series.

“Music is at the heart of the programming of Fuzzscape,” says Rajan Shrestha, music producer, singersongwriter and ethnomusicologist. Rajan co-hosts the show with fellow music producer and director Rohit Shakya. The dynamic duo can be seen on Fuzzscape, navigating the soundscapes of Nepal and narrating their experience.

“We interact with the communities in depth to learn about their history, the geopolitics and socio-cultural aspects of the region. This knowledge inspires our music making process,” says Rajan. In each episode, Rajan and Rohit work closely with native artists who give them a tour of their community as they strive to create collaborative music. The music they produce is a unique blend of traditional and contemporary music, or, as Rajan puts it, “contemporizing the traditional for modern audiences.” This whole process is captured by Prasit in a way that is both narratively and visually engaging.

Team Fuzzscape and Barta Gandharba play for locals in Palpale Baja. Photo by Nhooja Tuladhar.

“We realized early on as we documented local narratives, that there is a natural shift in conversation from music towards more substantial issues faced by the community we are engaging with,” says Prasit, who has been filming the series since the first episode. He adds that the idea of highlighting social narratives through music gets progressively refined from episode to episode. Rajan says that “Fuzzscape has been a medium through which we can learn about the country,” and thanks to their documentation, many more can do the same from the comforts of their homes.

For instance, their episode on Manang, is the highest-viewed episode with more than 71,000 views. In the midst of galloping horses and the chilly landscapes, Manang, a village in the Himalayan rain shadow, is rife with musical motifs. Episode 6 of Fuzzscape takes us on a thrilling ride through this remote, yet culturally imbued region of the Himalayas. In their search for the sounds of Manang, the Fuzzscape team was accompanied by Karma Tshering, a freelance photographer and native of the region, who helped them capture the beauty of Manange culture.

They reached their destination just in time for the Yartung Festival, a special

event in which young men demonstrate their horse riding skills to the village. The sound of the horse’s gallop is ever present in Manang, as the team witnesses horse riding youth playing Tangtu, an instrument made by molding skin into a hollow wooden block. The sound of the instrument is accompanied by their folk songs as they ride through the village streets.

“Music in Manang, as in most of Nepal, is associated with life, rituals, and culture,” says Rajan, as he remembers their visit to Pocha Gumba, where they heard locals sing Tibetan ritual songs. His enthusiasm for trying out the different traditional instruments is evident throughout the episode. Whether jamming out on the Tenge, a traditional Tibetan lute, blowing into a Yak horn, or recalling the melodies of the ritual songs, Rajan and Rohit’s passion is palpable as they piece sounds together in their makeshift, portable studio. “Many of our recordings happen on the field. We bring them back to our makeshift studio to further study them and give them a little tweak,” says Prasit. Rajan adds that traveling and figuring out how to set up temporary studios in different locations is part of the fun.

Bordering the Tibetan Plateau in the north of Nepal, much of the Manange culture is influenced by the Tibetan one. Most of the songs sung in Manang are in Tibetan, as, according to the locals, the native Neshyang language is ‘on the verge of extinction.’ Tshering and his local friends can be seen in the video figuring out lyrics in their native Neshyang tongue and later singing it to the melody made by Rajan and Rohit. This is a glimpse into the crucial role which locals play in Fuzzscape’s process. Going beyond music, exploring and learning the local concerns and creating a song to address them is exactly what makes Fuzzscape’s travels so fascinating to watch. Rajan draws inspiration from his surroundings

“Fuzzscape has been a medium through which they can learn about the country.”

Fuzzscape Janakpur artists, Rajan Shrestha, Shiwani Bhagat, Ranzen Jha and Rohit Shakya. Photo by Raywot Shrestha.

and joins into the song-writing process by adding a few verses in Nepali, which gives a tone of cross-cultural dynamism to his work. “I write about the impression I get from interacting with the place and people,” says Rajan in this regard.

Nepal’s musical and cultural diversity is fully displayed in the series. From the rhythm of horses, Tibetan hymns and the drumbeats of Tangtu in Manang, to the organized chaos of the rickshaws in Terai’s streets, the hustle and bustle of Bhajans in the Hindu temples of Janakpur, there’s a new and rich soundscape in every corner of Nepal.

Janakpur couldn’t be more different from Manang when it comes to topography, geopolitics, culture and traditions. Guided by music producer and DJ, Ranzen Jha, a native of Janakpur, Episode 5 explored local music in relation to issues regarding women’s empowerment. “Monotony is turned into art here,” states Rajan in his narration. The episode starts with stories of everyday life encapsulated by Janakpur’s famous Mithila art, and continues as Ranzen, Rajan and Rohit visit the famous Janaki Temple and Janakpur’s dazzling nightlife. They meet with local journalists and artists

to discuss local issues such as the politics of language. Always in search of traditional music, they go to Janakpur Women’s Development Centre (JWDC), where they learn about women’s role in conserving traditional art and language. This drew them towards collaborating with singer Shivani Bhagat as her soaring vocals compliment the overall theme of women’s empowerment.

Besides Manang and Janakpur, Fuzzscape has also traveled to Banepa, Shermanthang, Birgunj, Bhojpur, and Dang. Prasit explains that “in Manang, we had a crew of ten people, but we have also made episodes with just three people involved.” To make all this possible, Fuzzscape has received funding and support from many different partners and sponsors over the years, including Banepa Stay, Sanskriti (a Birgunj-based organization), and The British Council. “We were lucky with our sponsors,” adds Prasit, as they did not impose strict rules or guidelines when it came to their content. This allowed them to tell their stories freely. Before heading out to any new location, the Fuzzscape team carries out thorough armchair research. Rajan explains that this phase of research

“From the rhythm of horses, Tibetan hymns and the drumbeats of Tangtu in Manang, to the organized chaos of the rickshaws in Terai’s streets, the hustle and bustle of Bhajans in the Hindu temples of Janakpur, there’s a new and rich soundscape in every corner of Nepal.”

Fuzzscape director Prasiit Sthapit shooting Fuzzscape Janakpur artists Rajan Shrestha, Rohit Shakya and Ranzen Jha near Janakpur. Photo by Raywot Shrestha.

“Everyone has some preconceived notions about a place before going there, but we keep an open mind and explore whatever we find.”

takes around two to three months. During this time period, they learn about the music, geography, and other key information about the places they intend to visit.

“Rather than going there and being surprised, we do a lot of preliminary exercises at home,” says Rajan. Part of the research is looking for different collaborators for each episode, as local help is fundamental for their work. This includes looking for people and groups that are culturally engaged, such as in schools, theaters, musical ventures, social activism, and more. “Prasit is

involved in long-form photography, and I also have a background in research, so we truly treat Fuzzscape as a research project,” says Rajan, who is currently pursuing his Masters in Ethnomusicology from Kathmandu University.

After all preparations are done, the team goes on a 10 to 12-day field visit to the destination. “Everyone has some preconceived notions about a place before going there, but we keep an open mind and explore whatever we find,” says Rajan.

For Prasit, their seventh episode in Dang was particularly memorable. The team conducted some preliminary research regarding the history of abuse and issues of land rights along with local politics, but when they spoke to the people of Gaurhya Gaun in person, they unraveled the saddening realities about the local Tharu community. In collaboration with theater artist and indie-filmmaker Pranab Akash, the Fuzzscape team became familiarized with the history of the Kamaiya system, which forced many locals into bonded labor, a story that was all too true for Akash’s own family.

“Our episodes are driven by the worldview of the people we meet, and in Dang, we were influenced a lot by Akash’s understanding of the place,” explained Prasit. They explored the Tharu Andolan, a violent uprising that took place in 2015 against insufficient autonomy and its relevance within the context of local people’s struggle for their rights and identity. This was an issue which, according to Prasit, was painted in a completely different light by mainstream media, “it was an eyeopening experience for us,” he adds.

The episode titled Gaurhya Gaun starts with a thought-provoking premise in the voice of Pranab Akash, “if you want to erase a community’s or people’s existence, first you have to obliterate their identity.” Akash talks about their battle for identity, recalling stories of how his grandmother used to sing a mournful song called Maina in the forests while crying as a Kamlari, a female bonded laborer. He also recalls the way in which his grandfather, who was a Kamaiya, a male bonded laborer, sung Sajna as he plowed fields. He says these songs were a type of weapon, as they were sung to celebrate freedom, history,

Team Fuzzscape posing for a photograph with contributing artists from Fuzzscape Manang. Photo by Nhooja Tuladhar.

culture, identity, and their resilient existence.

The Fuzzscape team arrives in Gaurhya Gaun just in time for the Magh festival, which is celebrated both for being the start of the New Year, and the day which marks the freedom of the Tharu community. Akash and his people sing and dance songs of freedom from bonded labor on this auspicious day, expressing their community’s sorrow, pain, and happiness. “Spending a week or two in any place can just give us a superficial peek into their musical culture, and we try to contemporize music based on that sliver of knowledge,” said Rohit in this episode.

Through their stay there, they discovered that many local artists like Pranab Akash were attempting to preserve culture using modern instruments in a way that was resonant with Fuzzscape methods and intentions.

“What we really want is for our children’s generation to revive what little knowledge we have left by repackaging them with an air of modernity,” said Akash, who believes their actions help preserve Tharu cultures and traditions, eventually benefiting the entire community and its complicated history.

Fuzzscape is transforming traditional music with modern sensibilities and popular culture. According to Prasit, the impact of Fuzzscape’s work can be felt not only in the entertainment sector, with thousands of people appreciating the music that is created during their

journeys, but also in certain academic fields. “We are attempting to bridge academia with entertainment,” as he says, pointing out that their efforts have been featured in various Ph.D. thesis projects and other academic discussions.

On a different scale, the impact of their work can be felt in the communities they visit as they screen their episodes in local schools along the way of their travels. “We might not have a big enough impact to change a community, but we are spreading the importance of documentation and archiving wherever we go,” says Rajan. Full-length interviews with local experts are also publicly available on their website, an invaluable resource as globalization is slowly erasing the diversity of indigenous Nepali communities.

Fuzzscape recently released an offshoot episode produced by women artists called Songs of the Rapti. “We are also thinking that rather than having just the three of us Newari boys from Kathmandu making Fuzzscape, it would be even more impactful if we go out of our limits and support other groups of people who would like to follow the format of our episodes and the work that goes behind it,” says Rajan. He adds that Fuzzscape has helped them become much more selfreflective over the years and has matured the way in which they look at society. This latest episode, also based in Dang, and made entirely by a team of women, was produced under the banner of

AmplifiHer, the new offshoot series that aims to create space for women artists.

“There are hardly any women music producers in Nepal, and the existing ones are hardly ever promoted,” says Rajan. Fuzzscape is providing a platform for such artists as well as women who are documentary photographers, cinematographers, and other roles within the entertainment and research industry. In the Songs of the Rapti episode, we can see Simma Rai as a music producer, Heyshe Dolma Sherpa as the singer-songwriter, and Shristi Budha Magar as the cinematographer who collaborates with Basanti Chaudhary, a singer native to local Tharu community, and other women near the Rapti river. “It is very subtle and different, and it’s nice to see that we are growing this way,” said Rajan.

For the Fuzzscape team, the question of ‘what is Fuzzscape’ is one that is everevolving. Without being tied to rules and guidelines, the way in which this team of creative travelers manages to connect the traditional with the modern through their search for the sounds that compose the melody of Nepal is fascinating to no end. In a world where division is easier to breed than connection, Fuzzscape reminds us that the oldest form of art, music, is always there to bridge the gap between modern, digitalised lives, and the ancient rhythms that still beat through the veins of the people in Nepal, a rhythm that every community is proud to share with the world.

Barta Gandharba with her legendary father Dambar Bahadur Gandharba, in her home in Mangding. Photo by Nirman Shrestha.

Fuzzscape Bhojpur artists, Barta Gandharba, Rajan Shrestha and Rohit Shakya, walking to Barta’s home in Mangding. Photo by Nirman Shrestha.

MAYA KHAN

Filmmaking with Remote Himalayan Communities

“For a filmmaker in Nepal, the whole country can serve as a set. With one picturesque landscape after the other, you could almost capture a beautiful image by pointing the camera to any direction.”

Kalani Gacon, Chintan Rajbhandari and Ashish Shrestha on set with a local from Gatlang.

Photo by Mediaport.

For a filmmaker in Nepal, the whole country can serve as a set. With one picturesque landscape after the other, you could almost capture a beautiful image by pointing the camera to any direction. With the multitude of ethnic groups, cultures and histories that make up the stories of Nepal, there could be a world to uncover with every encounter. In stark difference with most other arts, filmmaking is a collaborative effort. Not only does a large constellation of crew and cast need to work together, but they also need to connect with local communities in order to make the smooth running of the operation possible. This is especially true for the way in which short and feature films are produced in a region like the Himalayas, where most remote areas are still

“Their experience serves as an example for how deeply a film production needs to coexist with the communities.”

sparsely populated and retain much of their traditional socio-cultural nuances.

A professional film production could range from being a week long if it is a short film, to being months long if it’s a feature film, and for documentaries, sometimes the filmmaker needs to return to a community for long periods of time throughout the expanse of many years. During this time, anywhere from tens to hundreds of people could be involved in a production. In order to be able to work, a filmmaker on the Himalayas needs to find a location that is both suitable for the story, and is inhabited by families and communities that are willing to provide for the whole team throughout the time span necessary. It is a long process for a filmmaker to find this synergy, one in which entire regions of the Himalayas must be scoured, and the right individuals discovered. This can not be done without a total immersion into the lives of the communities. While this may have never been officially thought of as a form of Community Tourism (CT), the way in which many responsible independent film productions in Nepal operate, and the long lasting effects they have, is in concordance with the intentions and impact of community based travel operations.

To understand the principles of CT without going into too much depth, one

could say that it is an approach to travel where the local residents welcome visitors to experience what their home and community lives look like. This approach allows for greater and more direct local development compared to mainstream tourism. Not only this, but CT also impacts the community by rekindling appreciation for cultural heritage and traditional knowledge. It has an impact on the mindset of people when it comes to valuing their inherent skills both as individuals and as a community. While this may sound distant from the world of filmmaking, there is a particular exception for films shot in rural Nepal. It is not farfetched to say that a good amount of such productions do not have access to mainstream accommodation and dining facilities. Some things can be brought along from the cities, but they greatly rely on local hospitality for basic survival and sustenance. Even though it is under different guise, the premise of this type of hospitality sisters that of CT initiatives, where homestays play a key role in accommodation, and dining is approached similarly. It might not be defined or organized in the same way, but the mutual impact is comparable. In regards to this, the team from Mediaport, a Kathmandu based production company that has an extensive history of shooting in

areas of Nepal where mainstream accommodation and dining simply do not exist, has a lot to say. Having lived through a decade of experiences ranging from total welcoming and collaboration, to tense moments where sticks were thrust into their wheels, this production team has great insight about the impact communities and film productions have on each other. Their experience serves as an example for how deeply a film production needs to coexist with the communities they are shooting in. Mr. Prawin Karki, the producer of Mediaport productions says that filmmaking has many stages, from looking for the right location, to casting locals as actors. Filmmakers rely on local collaboration for more things than one would imagine. He explains that, “the cast and crew of a feature film could be accommodated in each and every family’s home throughout an entire village. It is just like staying in homestays, without officially calling it that way. We stay with the local families for many months without interruption sometimes, as we form a very close personal tie with them. Without this closeness, it would be impossible to do our work, and there have been cases in which we had to pack our equipment and go due to conflict with the villagers. Choosing the right people to work with can either make or break

a film, which is why our scouting process can take years sometimes, as we travel and consider tens of places and communities before deciding on one.”

To this, Mr. Dipendra Bhandari, the successful filmmaker of Journey to Yarsa, adds that, “if we want to think of some similarities between CT and responsible filmmaking, the accommodation factor comes into mind first, but the one of food and sustenance is just as relevant. If you are shooting for many months at a time, there is only so much one can bring from the city. All the food we consume comes directly from the locals’ fields, we only ever eat fresh seasonal produce, which is the most sustainable practice one could implement. When we want to eat meat, it becomes a communal experience. Often, villagers are not willing to kill a goat because they don’t have enough people to consume all the meat in time and they are afraid that it will go to waste. When we offer to buy the goat and share the meat with all the villagers, it becomes a happy occasion and we are shown their local hospitality to even greater depth. It is important to remember that we must give as much as we receive from these people whose hospitality has no bounds.”

Both Mr. Karki and Mr. Bhandari agree that the manpower necessary to make a film is extensive. The technical crew, production team,

“It is important to remember that we must give as much as we receive from these people whose hospitality has no bounds.”

Landscape in Mustang. Photo by RMT.

“This local involvement in the filmmaking process inadvertently achieved one of the goals of CT, which is to open up new professional pathways for the locals.”

and actors may come from the city, but they require guides and porters to go from one place to another, and carry the incredibly heavy equipment required for filming. They may also hire mules and horses for this purpose, further helping the local economy. Hospitality however, does not end with basic food and accommodation. Mr. Bhandari recounts that entertainment is seen as part of the host’s responsibility, and it is not only a good way to spend the evenings, but also serves as a means of income for the villagers. He recounts that, “often in the evenings, our hosts will provide us with local, homemade alcohol, and they will organize cultural programs. It is always a pleasure to witness local dances and musical performances because once we are familiar enough, we will also sing and dance with them. We manage to pay the performers even though they are reluctant to accept money. This is the same for the hosts of the homes that accommodate us. If we say, here is some money for the food and beds, they will never accept it. We always need to disguise the reason we want to give them money by saying, this is for your child’s education, or this is for your mother’s hospital treatment. Their hospitality culture makes it a taboo for them to accept payment for what they perceive to be basic hospitality, especially if we are staying in people’s private homes rather than a teahouse. It is our responsibility not to abuse this culture, and when offering money, we need to be tactful and truly consider what it costs them to host and feed us.” As in CT experiences, vernacular music and dance is both a way of uniting people, and a way for the performers to generate some income.

Using a local village home in Gatlang as a set. Photo by Mediaport.

During the shoot of a feature film that is still unreleased, the team from Mediaport lived in Accham for almost half a year without interruption. The most interesting aspect of this project in particular is that the cast was entirely composed of people belonging to the local community. It has been established that finding an appropriate place to shoot in is arduous to begin with, but involving local non-actors in a production of such scale adds many layers to how deeply the filmmakers need to connect and immerse themselves into the community. Mr. Karki, the producer of this film, says that on this occasion, the whole community was involved in each and every step of the production of this film, “if we need the locals as actors too, we need to make sure that they relate to the story, and feel a personal desire to be in the film. None of our actors had ever expressed an interest in acting before meeting us,

however they agreed since they found the story relatable to their own lives. They were convinced that it is significant to portray their story in the film, and were completely invested in it. We were living with them, eating with them, going to the emotionally challenging places the story of the film brought us to, and the actors’ involvement made sure that their whole families and neighbors supported us too. By the time we had to pack up and leave the villages we filmed in, we were all in tears, some of the goodbyes were truly like saying goodbyes to old friends as we went through so much together during the time of shooting, both mentally and physically.” This local involvement in the filmmaking process inadvertently achieved one of the goals of CT, which is to open up new professional pathways for the locals. Being in such close contact with a powerhouse of creativity such as a film production team can be a unique

experience for people from remote areas, and witnessing their creative force in action is awe inspiring. A good number of youths who acted in the film decided to come to Kathmandu to study film or pursue acting professionally. They are, of course, supported by the filmmakers in any way possible, as life in Kathmandu can be difficult for someone who has no ties to the city.

“It is the responsibility of a filmmaker to continue helping the people who were involved in his film,” says Mr. Bhandari. His most famous work, Journey to Yarsa, follows the lives of the people who collect the famed cordyceps fungus in the most remote parts of the Himalayas. Filmed more than a decade ago in Maikot, Rukum, Mr. Bhandari is still an influential person when it comes to helping the community featured in his documentary. “At first, it seems as though a filmmaker is using local

communities only for his advantage, as he makes the film, builds his career and his fortune. However if the filmmaker is a responsible person, what he can give to the community can be far greater than what he receives.” Besides Yarsagumba, many of Rukum’s locals make their living by trading local medicinal herbs, mad honey, fruits and vegetables, but their isolation can make it difficult

“Filmmaking in rural Himalayan communities is a long process that requires a lot of convincing and local involvement.”

“Mr. Karki recounts that after the release of a popular Nepali film called Kabaddi, the village in which it was shot, Naurikot in Mustang, gained a popularity that the filmmakers had never foreseen. It started what he calls, film tourism, as people visited the areas in which the film was shot with the desire of witnessing in person the places they love so much on screen.”

witnessing the hunters in action, and picking the fungus themselves. He adds that, “people who have watched the documentary have contacted me asking to coordinate financial support for the people featured in my documentary. This has helped pay for health expenses and education of many families, as well as paying back their debt. It is a pleasure for me to be the middleman for business or aid transactions, as it costs me nothing to put people in contact with each other. Even though it’s been so long since I shot that film, I still have contact with the villagers on an almost daily basis. They changed my life, and I welcome every opportunity to help them back.”

for them to connect with reliable buyers. Mr. Bhandari continuously coordinates relations between local traders and buyers both nationally and internationally, significantly boosting their yearly income. He has also helped local authorities establish trekking routes that follow the trails walked by Yarsa hunters, trails which suscitated great curiosity amongst travelers. He helped organize the touristic experience of traveling with the hunters to collect this famous medicine. In this case, “the travel agency keeps 10 to 15 percent of the revenues, while the rest goes directly into the hands of the locals, and the money is almost always spent on the younger generation’s health and education.” This new stream of revenue for the region and locals is a direct effect of the global success of this documentary, as travelers from far and across have growing interest in walking these trails,

This is not the first time in which a film or documentary has permanently affected the economic and social climate of a village. Mr. Karki recounts that after the release of a popular Nepali film called Kabaddi, the village in which it was shot, Naurikot in Mustang, gained a popularity that the filmmakers had never foreseen. It started what he calls, film tourism, as people visited the areas in which the film was shot with the desire of witnessing in person the places they love so much on screen. He says that, “when a film crew leaves a village having had a good experience, they will become fervent ambassadors of that place, talking to no end about the warmth with which they were welcomed and treated. Other filmmakers often ask us about our experience of various locations as they are scouting for their own films, and we are very open about which communities are collaborative and which aren’t. Every filmmaker who has shot in rural areas is a valuable resource in this respect.” The whole religion of Mustang has gained great tourist popularity for a multitude of reasons like its natural beauty and vernacular culture, and film has played a small but significant part in this popularity. Mr. Karki, whose ongoing film in Accham is set during the period of civil war in Nepal, says that the region is beautiful, yet, it is not popular. A trekking trail that follows the footsteps of the guerilla soldiers has been created, the Guerilla Trail, however most people have not heard of it. Mr. Karki is certain that this trial will spike in popularity once the film is released all over the world. “The locals understand the mutual benefit of our collaboration very well, which is why they are so willing to work with us, however, there is no understanding of the relationship between films and tourism on a governance level. If local governments would understand the role filmmakers can have in the success of a location as a tourist destination, then they might think of supporting us too, but they have not made the connection so far,” says Mr. Karki. Mr. Bhandari, who was involved in a film called Talking to the Air, recounts

Filming near the east Rukum Border. Photo by Dipendra Bhandari.

“Not only does the filmmakers’ livelihoods depend on the relationships they can build with such communities, but when done responsibly, the socio-economic impact can be felt by the people they work with too.”

the social impact this film had on some rural villages in Mustang, “at the time of shooting, many villages were feeling the first whiffs of modernisation. Horses have historically had a huge role in the culture of Mustang, but in recent times, they have been replaced with motor vehicles, as the road network became more developed. Along with this, some villages stopped celebrating Yarthung, a three day long horse riding festival, because of the sparse population. After watching our film, the people from these villages were reminded of how deeply they love and miss their horses and their riding culture. They had replaced their horses with motorbikes, but they told me that after our film they were feeling ashamed of the fact that they stopped

grooming horses, and that they had stopped celebrating Yarthung in their village. Now, they have started doing both again, and feel immensely proud.” While it is normal that as cultures evolve some practices are maintained and some die out, it is beautiful to witness when people re-establish their ancient practices because they feel a burning in their heart to do so. As it happens with places that have been culturally impacted by CT operations, this comes to show that sometimes people may need outside appreciation to remind themselves how dear elements of their identity are to them. Filmmaking in rural Himalayan communities is a long process that requires a lot of convincing and local involvement, but as in many other

Technician holds a camera in Accham. Photo by Mediaport.

cases, the pay off makes the hardship worth it. Not only does the filmmakers’ livelihoods depend on the relationships they can build with such communities, but when done responsibly, the socioeconomic impact can be felt by the people they work with too. Similarly to practices followed by CT, the most important thing to keep at heart is that the identity of rural and indigenous people in the Himalayas should never be exploited for monetary gain. It is key to realize that in the Himalayas, professional relationships can end with a simple monetary transaction, but also have the potential to have a future trajectory that continues to benefit all the parties involved for the years to come.

Preparing food for the crew with the locals in Accham. Photo by Mediaport.

Director of Photography Chintan Rajbhandari basks in the sun during rest time with his team in Accham. Photo by Mediaport.

Men with bow and arrow in Mustang.

Photo by RMT.

Discover the wonders that await