IH issue 5

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HIMALAYAS

BY ROYAL MOUNTAIN TRAVEL | ISSUE 5

NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

The Manaslu region in central Nepal is arguably the last area left within a day’s reach of Kathmandu where you can find some peace and lengthy solitude.

Homestays in the Bhutanese countryside open up a world of local hospitality.

A Tibet Diary From Lhasa to Everest Base Camp, the chronicles of a trip to Tibet.

Getting Local in Nepal’s Community Homestays The main goal of Community Homestays is the “Empowerment of Local Women”. www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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HIMALAYAS NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

BY ROYAL MOUNTAIN TRAVEL | ISSUE 5

A porter carries supplies to the higher tea house lodges situated in upper Khumbhu, with Thamserku at the background.

Photo: Tashi Sherpa. www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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“A Community For Adventure & Local Experience’’ and one that has worked—is to provide an independent livelihood for the women who run the homestays. Women who otherwise would have relied primarily on their husbands have developed networks with each other, take English lessons and donate money to local projects. We have welcomed these women into the Royal Mountain Community, and have even provided some office jobs at our Kathmandu headquarters. We hope that each of the homestay networks throughout the country can be as successful as Panauti’s. For more on the Community Homestay initiative, look to Elen Turner’s story in this edition of Inside Himalayas magazine.

For a couple of years now, Royal Mountain Travel is proud to have been developing a network of community homestays, through CommunityHomestay.com. Our flagship programme in Panauti, a Newar town not far from the Kathmandu Valley, has been extremely successful, and has provided the model for numerous other homestays around the country. Now, travellers can stay in family homes in Palpa, two locations in Chitwan, Nuwakot, Nagarkot, Patan, Patlekhet and in various places on the Annapurna Community trek. This mix of urban and rural locations means that by staying at a community homestay, travellers to Nepal can really get to know the true essence of all parts of Nepali society.

But, how do we define the success of these homestays?

The programme is not just about making a profit, as per traditional forms of accommodation. The intention—

We offer an exciting range of articles from inside the Himalayas in this year’s edition: winter trekking in the Annapurnas, searching for the yak in Ladakh, visiting rural towns in Bhutan, and much more. We hope you will be inspired with fresh ideas for your first, second, or tenth visit to our beautiful Himalayan region.

If you’re looking for further information and inspiration after finishing the pages of this magazine, check out our Inside Himalayas website (www.insidehimalayas.com), which is continually growing and sharing the beauty and diversity of the Himalayan nations. We regularly feature stories from around our region, as well as share tips about how to get the most out of your travel here.

Let us know how we can help you plan your trip, and see you soon!

Shiva Dhakal Managing Director

Managing Director Shiva Dhakal Editor Elen Turner Cover Photo Hemis Executives, Production Sudeep Singh and Sudan Budhathoki Contributors Tashi Sherpa, Ross Adkin, Elen Turner, Devorah Klein LevTov, Joshua Cook, Kerry Tolson and Igor Kulishov

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Published by Royal Mountain Travel - Nepal Lal Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: +977-1-4444378 Web: www.royalmt.com.np

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All rights reserved in respect of all articles, illustration, photography, etc published in Inside Himalayas Magazine. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced in whole or part in any form without the written consent of the publisher. The opinions expressed by contributors are not necessarily those of the publisher, who cannot accept responsibility for any errors or omissions. All editorial inquires and submission to Inside Himalayas Magazine must be address to info@insidehimalayas.com

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Cover Story Making a Social Call in Manaslu

Everest from the Seat of a Helicopter ........................................................................ 14 In Search of the Yak in Ladakh ......................................................................................... 17 Clouds of Wildflowers and Rain ..................................................................................... 20 Life and Death in a Remote Bhutanese Village ....................................................... 25 Alone but Never Lonely: The Annapurna Circuit in Winter ................................. 28 Getting Local in Nepal’s Community Homestays

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48

Luring the Rains

The Guest are ‘Truly’ Gods in Bhutan ............................................................................ 40 The Mardi Himal Trek ........................................................................................................... 44 Major Festivals of Nepal .................................................................................................... 52 Lower Mustang ....................................................................................................................... 58 A Tibet Diary ............................................................................................................................ 66 Classes and Tours .................................................................................................................. 73

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Where Tradition Meets Comfort

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Discover an

oasis of Nepali culture & hospitality in the heart of

Kathmandu.

For further details, please contact:

Krishna Pauroti, Kamalpokhari, Kathmandu, Nepal | +977-1-4410454/55, 4410009/10 info@traditionalcomfort.com | www.traditionalcomfort.com www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel Facebook: facebook.com/traditionalcomfort/ | Instagram: @traditionalcomfort | Twitter: @TradiComfort

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Benkar Valley settles gracefully in-between wonders of nature.

Photo: Tashi Sherpa. www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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Cover Story

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Making a Social Call in

MANASLU

by Ross Adkin

Young monks gather outside a small local monastery. Photo: RMT .

“The massive cliff across the valley to our north hid the approach to Tibet. Half a day’s climb to the south was a high altitude lake and pastures, but we had come to make a social call, and spent our time chatting and drinking Tibetan tea”

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The Manaslu Trek is one of the famous treks for the ‘off beat trek’ lovers. Photo: Prem Gurung .

The Manaslu region in central Nepal is arguably the last area left within a day’s reach of Kathmandu where you can find some peace and lengthy solitude.

Offering the usual superlatives of mountain beauty, hidden valleys, remote monasteries and single-file suspension bridges swinging through mid-air, all tucked just to the east of the Annapurna Circuit and its hordes.

The Manaslu trail runs through Gorkha district, where the epicentre of the first of the 2015 earthquakes struck.

However, repair work to the trails and lodges has been ongoing and the reviews are saying that it’s good to go.

For those who have trekked the more popular routes in Nepal already, the Manaslu region should be the next big adventure.

The most popular route in the region is an anti-clockwise circuit of Manaslu peak – at 8163 metres, it’s the world’s eighth highest. The walk takes slightly longer than two weeks, travelling from the gentle hills of lower Gorkha up to the Larke Pass (over 5100 metres), which is a hard, full day’s walk that crosses into the Annapurna region.

Accommodation and food are slightly more basic than in areas like the Annapurnas or Everest. High calorie trekking favourites like apple pie and chocolate pudding are thin on the ground. Hot springs at the side of the trail make up most of the limited showering opportunities. But, this is all part of the appeal. Hiring a guide is mandatory for foreigners, but if you’re an independent traveller don’t be put off by this fact: unless you speak Nepali, you’ll need one in the Manaslu area anyway. A Restricted Area Permit that costs around US$70 per week is also necessary. Entry to the Mansaslu Conservation Area, and the Annapurna Conservation Area (if you plan to cross the Larke Pass) will come to an additional NPR4000 (around US$40).

Daily expenses for tea, food and accommodation will be slightly lower than on more popular routes, however.

I first travelled to the region in 2008 to visit a friend who lived midway along the Manaslu circuit. The contrast with the well-established and signposted trails and the well-stocked lodges of the Everest region, from which I had recently returned, was noticeable. The

flight to Lukla had been short and scary; the long bus journey to the trailhead at Arughat was farcical and exhausting.

As we were embarking in Kathmandu, a fellow passenger opened up what looked like a wicker handbag and stuffed a squawking rooster into it. The case and its contents were put up into the narrow metal shelf overhead that served as the luggage rack, and the bird’s owner – a rotund and formidable-looking woman – settled down for the journey.

When travelling medium to long distances on public buses in Nepal, it is best to completely ignore any arrival time you are given. The first two hours along the Prithvi Highway went by relatively quickly. Not long after turning off towards Gorkha district, however, the road and the journey took on a distinctly provincial feel. We were travelling slower due to the quality of the road and became more obliged to pick up people and their luggage from the side of the road. I found myself looking across the aisle and up to the shelf where the bird was entombed.

We reached Arughat that evening.

The rooster’s owner hurried off into

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the night and I never got to see how it had fared outside of the case. On another journey to the same town in 2011, when I was revisiting Mansalu, several buckets of paint stacked in the doorway of the bus fell off after we rattled over a particularly bad pothole, spinning and spilling down the hill. Their owner jumped off, the bus stopped (in that order) and we waited until he re-emerged paint-splattered from the foliage a few minutes later, having saved two of the three buckets.

Arughat is a small town sitting astride the Budhi Gandaki River. Pushpa Kamal Dahal (or ‘Prachanda’), the leader of the Maoist insurgency that ravaged Nepal from 1996 to 2006, taught at a school here for a couple of years before going underground. Baburam Bhattarai, a bearded Leninesque figure and an ideological figurehead of the insurgency, was born not far away. The town exudes more middle hills conservatism than revolutionary fervor, however, with a beautiful and old central bazaar. Unfortunately it was

severely damaged by the earthquakes, and now that the road into the hills has been extended up to Soti Khola, it may be worth driving an extra hour or so and getting further up into the hills quicker.

The first stage out from Arughat is a gentle stroll alongside the riverbank and crops. In early April it was warm – around 30 degrees in the middle of the day – and as the path began ascending and descending, it was sometimes hot work. We arrived that evening in the village of Lapubesi, and found a place to stay in someone’s house.

In 2011, particularly along the lower sections of the trail, accommodation was more of the improvised homestay kind than trekkers’ lodges. I enjoyed this far better, eating what the family was eating and sitting round the stove together in the evenings. More hotels have been built since, as Manaslu has become more popular. We settled down to rice and lentils, offered around some Glenmorangie (which our hosts drank politely but didn’t seem inspired by), and settled in for the night. The

wind picked up and it started to rain, almost drowning out the roar of the river running below.

Midway through the next morning we had our first proper wash since leaving Kathmandu three days before, in the hot springs at the village of Tatopani (meaning ‘hot water’ in Nepali). In the afternoon the vegetation was still green and lush, but the hills around us were looming closer and that night we felt hemmed in by their giant imprints against the dark sky.

Next morning we reached the confluence of the Sigar Khola and Budhi Gandaki. The Shear Khola flows down from the Tsum Valley, which was a giant fork to our right, leading and twisting up towards Tibet. It was alluring, but required a separate permit that we didn’t have. By now the villages were more compact and orderly, as if huddled together against the cold; built of neat stone slabs piled on top of each other rather than mud bricks and clay.

Buddhist prayer flags streamed from

The Manaslu Trail runs through Gorkha District. Photo: Denis Oliver Poulet.

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Manaslu is one of the last areas a day’s reach from Kathmandu where trekkers can get some real solitude. Photo: RMT.

the trees, and the growth of the crops in the fields lagged behind those we had seen in the lower, warmer fields.

Trains of ponies carrying sacks of grain, building materials and gas canisters clopped past and sent us scrambling for perches off the edge of the path.

We reached the village of Ghap, our destination, in the afternoon of our fourth day of walking. We had a few days to explore the surrounds. A little further along from the house we were staying in was a rare piece of open, level ground covered by dense forest, a riot of dripping moss and green

creepers, rhododendrons all around.

Further along the path, a brook rushed down the slope and turned the blades of a small mill, and also kept a prayer wheel spinning mantras out into the air. We chatted to a nun and her friend in broken Tibetan as they watched the mill grind their flour.

The massive cliff across the valley to our north hid the approach to Tibet.

Half a day’s climb to the south was a high altitude lake and pastures, but we had come to make a social call, and spent our time chatting and drinking Tibetan tea.

Curious children pause on a local trail. Photo: Igor Kullishov.

On the journey down, we turned around and headed back down the valley, turning frequently to get another look of Manaslu, rising at the end of the Mansiri range. The route we had just taken was ten days in all, from Kathmandu to Ghap and back. But the Manaslu region offers many more options for the intrepid walker. Another seven days could be spent in the Tsum Valley before rejoining the circuit route. The Larke Pass is another two or three days further along; once you’ve crossed this, you’ll descend to the Annapurna trail, where you should be able to find some apple pie and the odd solar-heated shower, at last.

Tibetan Buddhist influences can be seen in Manaslu. Photo: Denis Oliver Poulet.

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Everest from the Seat of a Helicopter

by Elen Turner

Climbing or trekking to Everest is definitely not on every traveller’s bucket list. But the tallest peak in the world and its almost-as-tall neighbours have an undeniable magnetism that every adventurous traveller should aim to see. So, how to do so if you don’t have the time, stamina or inclination to get there on foot? Helicopter.

An Everest sightseeing trip from Kathmandu via helicopter is the ultimate adventure for travellers who don’t have much time in Nepal, and aren’t on a strict budget. But, they’re also not as expensive as you may imagine, especially if you’re travelling with friends, or can find companions to share the costs with. The average price per five-seat helicopter is US$5500. Split that five ways, and that’s little more than $1000 each. While that cost is obviously significant, when you consider you’ll be getting the exciting experience of a lifetime, it’s certainly worth it.

A sightseeing helicopter flight to Everest from Kathmandu looks like this: Fly from Kathmandu early in the morning, to get the best of the weather and visibility. Make a quick stop in Lukla, about half an hour’s flight from Kathmandu, to drop off fuel, but you won’t disembark here. The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is magnificent, with increasingly high hills dotted with farming villages and terrace rice fields slowly giving way to the higher mountains.

From Lukla, continue on to Syangboche, an airstrip above the Sherpa town of Namche Bazaar with spectacular mountain views. This is the closest airstrip to Everest Base Camp. All passengers disembark the helicopter here, as on the next leg of the trip, only a maximum of three passengers at a time can be taken. But don’t worry, those ‘left behind’ will enjoy a cosy breakfast at the Everest View Lodge (passengers who take the first flight will take their breakfast afterwards).

From Syangboche, fly to Kala Patthar, for extraordinary views of Everest, Base Camp and the surrounding peaks. Due to the geography, you cannot actually see the peak of Everest from Everest Base Camp, so Kala Patthar is the place to go for the views. You can’t stop here for too long because of the high altitude (5,644 metres) and the quick ascent you’ve made.

Nevertheless, there will be time for some magnificent photos before hopping back on board and returning to Syangboche (when the remaining passengers will be shuttled, if you’re travelling with a full helicopter).

Once everyone has taken their flight and breakfasted, return to Kathmandu. Aside from the spectacular mountain and hill views, the helicopter rides themselves are exhilarating, and will likely become an all-time favourite travel memory.

Quick facts • Sightseeing helicopter flights to Everest can take a maximum of five passengers.

• The current average price for a helicopter is US$5500.

• If you need help finding travel companions to reduce the cost, contact Royal Mountain Travel.

• Excursions last a full morning.

• Bring warm clothes (for the higher altitudes), sunscreen, drinking water and your camera.

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A community for

adventure & local experience

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TRAVEL-NEPAL Lal Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal Email: info@royalmt.com.np URL: www.royalmt.com.np

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If one creates in earnest the armor of bodhicitta, It is like the treasury of space offering unlimited largesse.

For fortunate beings, this temple and all it contains Are like the wondrous bursting forth of spring.

Thrangu Tashi Yangtse Monastery is located at the sacred pilgrimage site of Namo Buddha, Nepal. It is home to more than 250 monks and includes a monastic college, a school for young monks and a Tibetan Medical clinic.

For more details, please contact:

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P.O. Box: 8720 Lal Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: +977-1-4444376 / 78 / 79 Fax: +977-1-4444380 Email: info@royalmt.com.np URL: www.royalmt.com.np

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In Search of the Yak in Ladakh

by Devorah Klein Lev-Tov

Maybe a mini yak... but then again, maybe not. Photo: Elen Turner.

“My heart leapt: it was a yak! I was sure of it.

The brown and white animal had large horns framing its boxy face and a long skirt of fur that swept the dusty ground”

While India is indeed a beautiful country, I hadn’t thought of it as a destination for nature or animal lovers, per se. Yes, there are some Bengal tigers hiding (I tried and was unsuccessful at spotting one in the Sunderbans) and of course cows galore. But what’s always drawn me to India is the fascinating culture.

That changed last summer when my husband and I headed to a very different part of the country: Jammu and Kashmir. This state has a unique and captivating culture, but it also happens to be one of the most geographically stunning places in the world. There’s also a special animal to be seen there, located in the Indian Himalayas: the yak.

I quickly became obsessed. These woolly animals have amazing horns and full, furry skirts to keep them warm. I had to see one, maybe even touch one.

We arrived in Leh, the capital city of the

Ladakh region, after a gorgeous, thrilling two-day drive from Kashmir, through high mountain passes and moonscape vistas. We immediately went to rest: our bodies were not used to the extremely high altitude—Leh sits at 3500 metres.

I found a book about the region and soon learned more about my beloved yak. The nomad tribes living in the nearby Changtang Valley rely heavily on yaks for survival. They use them for their milk, but once it’s determined that a yak must be killed for the tribe to survive the winter (with its Arctic-like conditions), every part of the yak’s body is used.

The yak is skinned and the hair of the tail is used to make ropes. The leather from the skin is used to make shoes and to carpet the floor of tents. The horns are used to make buttons, and the yak’s fat is preserved and used for cooking and lighting lamps. The meat is air dried

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White and Brown Yaks beside Pangong Lake (Pangong Tso) Leh Ladakh, India. Photo: Sirintra.

to preserve it, and the intestines are stuffed with a mixture of the yak’s blood and barley flour to make sausages. The stomach is used as an air bag in which to ferment yoghurt. Who knew that the nomads of Ladakh were practicing nose-to-tail butchery way before it became trendy in the West?

I followed alongside for a while, despite my husband warning me not to get too close. Finally our driver beckoned us to return to the car. His English was just soso, and I turned to him and said, “Yak?” and pointed. He shook his head. “Dimo.

Not yak, dimo.” What was a dimo? I had no idea.

a two-day trek through the Himalayan foothills. After four hours, we reached a very small village—so small it consisted of just nine homes. As we entered, I immediately noticed a kind of hairy rope used along the gates: yak skin rope! And then there was a horned skull displayed atop one home. Was it a yak?

But the people do not take killing a yak lightly. While the yak is being killed through asphyxiation, religious hymns are said and the killer requests pardon for the sin of killing the animal.

The next day, our driver promised us that we would find some of the nomad tribes. We finally came upon one small camp with two women sitting in front of a tent. One of them was holding a baby.

The tents were clearly made out of some type of fur—was it yak? But there were no yaks in sight.

We were welcomed into a home and shown to our small but clean room several floors up. As the sun began to set, we walked out onto the flat roof to take pictures. Suddenly, I noticed a small woman leading a gigantic, lumbering animal down a path from the mountains and into the village.

“Where can we see some yaks?” I asked our driver. “Yaks not here. They go up in the mountains now because it is too hot.”

I understood now that if we wanted to see yaks we would have to get up very early, before the men took the yaks high up in the mountains to graze, where it’s cooler. The hot summer sun was too strong for these woolly animals built for winter.

My heart leapt: it was a yak! I was sure of it. The brown and white animal had large horns framing its boxy face and a long skirt of fur that swept the dusty ground.

I gazed lovingly and longingly as it was led into the village and then into a pen right below us. “We have to go down and see it!” I said to my husband. Just then, our host came up to tell us dinner was ready. My husband and I looked at each other and knew we couldn’t explain to these gracious people that we weren’t ready to come to dinner because we had to go see a yak.

I told the owner of our hotel that I wanted to go where the nomadic tribes were in the Changtang Valley, thinking I would surely see a yak there. The next day, we found ourselves in a jeep heading east. After several hours and multiple checkpoints, we reached the entrance to the valley, with the Himalayas looming in the distance. We were greeted by tall green mountains and lush valleys filled with Kashmir goats being herded along a river. The scene was breathtaking.

After a while, we stopped at the only building for miles, someone’s home that was also a roadside stand. As we got out to stretch our legs, I noticed two large furry animals and a small baby grazing by the river. I ran toward them in excitement. They were indeed very furry—definitely not cows. And they had large horns. But up close they seemed kind of small. I had thought yaks were quite massive. But still, they were adorable and the baby cuter still.

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Defeated, I tried to make peace with the fact that maybe I wouldn’t see a yak in the flesh. We returned to Leh later that day and I Googled “dimo.” It said “female yak.” So I had seen a member of the yak species after all! But the nagging remained. I wanted to see a big, hulking, giant yak.

After a day of rest, we set out from Leh again, this time to the Markha Valley for

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Even though we didn’t get to go right up to it, my heart was still bursting from seeing this majestic animal just a few metres below. It was everything I hoped it would be, and more. But my obsession is not satisfied—I still have to touch a yak one day.

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EVEREST

BASE CAMP with Comfort Packages

BRIEF ITINERARY Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Day 02: City Tour & preparation for the trek Day 03: Lukla Flight / Phakding Day 04: Namche Bazaar Day 05: Namche Bazaar – Acclimatization Day Day 06: Debuche Day 07: Dingboche Day 08: Dingboche Acclimatization Day Day 09: Lobuche Day 10: Gorakshep Day 11: Pheriche Day 12: Namche Bazaar Day 13: Lukla Day 14: Kathmandu Day 15: Departure

TRAVEL-NEPAL

For more details, please contact:

Royal Mountain Travel - Nepal

P.O. Box: 8720 Lal Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: +977-1-4444376 / 78 / 79 Fax: +977-1-4444380 www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel Email: info@royalmt.com.np URL: www.royalmt.com.np

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Clouds of Wildflowers and Rain: Monsoon Trekking in Himachal Pradesh

by Elen Turner

Wildflowers in bloom in the Indian Himalayas of Himachal Pradesh. Photo: alisha24.

“I never meant to go trekking during the monsoon. But I read about the odd, isolated settlement of Malana in India’s Himachal Pradesh, and was intrigued by the town that supposedly treated all outsiders as untouchables and grew the finest marijuana in the world. So in late July, I set off on the four day/three night trek from Naggar, over the Chanderkani Pass, to Malana. In the rain”.

Day 1: Naggar to camp 1, via Rumsu Treks in Himachal Pradesh are mostly camping treks, and you need to take your own food along. Being a solo female traveller, I hired a guide and two porters through a Naggarbased company. Guide Ranjit was exceptionally helpful and kind.

Naggar, the starting point for the trek, is about an hour’s drive from Manali, so I stayed the night before in the pretty little town. The first day got off to a bit of a slow start because it rained heavily overnight and in the early morning, so nobody was in much of a hurry to get going. Once the skies had finally cleared (sort of), I was driven with

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the guide to the trailhead, about ten minutes away.

that would have had lovely views over the Kullu Valley on a clearer day.

The walk was entirely uphill for the first two days, but not steep or difficult.

After about half an hour we reached the village of Rumsu, with a lovely Himachali-style wooden temple and traditional wood and stone homes. If you can’t or don’t want to do a multiday trek, the walk from Naggar to Rumsu and back would make a nice single-day hike.

In the evening, the men made a campfire and I dried my damp clothes.

Dinner was tasty dal, vegetable curry, rice and chapatti. We were the only people camping there, though Ranjit told me that in June, when most Indians have their holidays, this trek and its campsites get very crowded with Indian students.

Day 2: Camp 1 to camp 2

At Rumsu it started to rain, and didn’t really stop for the rest of the day. We were engulfed in mist much of the time.

We walked for about 3.5 hours before coming to the first campsite in a meadow

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It rained heavily overnight and although I managed to stay dry, the water seeped through the groundsheet of my tent and most of my belongings got

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wet. Fortunately, one set of clothes had been sitting on top of everything else and stayed dry.

Day 2 was similar to day one, walking uphill through intermittent rain. The clouds cleared from time to time, allowing brief views. I was glad of my walking poles because some of the uphill track was slippery. We came into camp about 2.30pm, and it rained heavily. We sheltered before rushing to pitch the tent in a brief sunny spell. I was a little bit over the rain by this point, and questioned the wisdom of coming on a monsoon season trek. But at least there were no leeches, as there would be in Nepal! In the evening the men made a fire again, and I dried my belongings.

Day 3: Camp 2 to Malana, via the Chanderkani Pass (3700 m) There was only a little rain in the night, and again in the morning, so I felt better on day three. Which was lucky, because this day was about to get tough. If it had rained as heavily as the first two days, I might still be there now.

We had camped at about 2800 metres, 900 metres below the Chanderkani Pass. Ranjit said that we were about 1.5 hours’ walk from the pass, so I anticipated that it would be a difficult climb. Almost a kilometre of vertical height in under two hours! But it was surprisingly easy. Much of the ascent was through meadows. When we got to the pass shrouded in cloudy mist and Ranjit announced that we’d arrived, I was amazed that we were at 3700 metres already.

We couldn’t see any views because of the clouds, but rested awhile and then started to descend gradually from the pass towards the Malana Valley. The Kullu Valley had had light sprinklings of wildflowers, but these turned into thick carpets. We passed a dense patch of pink snapdragons swaying above our heads, buzzing ferociously from all the bees dipping inside them. Elsewhere there were tiny blue forget-me-nots, yellow daisies and a whole variety of pink, purple, blue, yellow, and red that I couldn’t identify. Such an array of gorgeous flowers only appear in this season, and entirely made up for the lack of any views on the first two days of the trek.

Before the descent got too fierce we stopped for a picnic lunch, which— it was soon to become clear—was necessary to gather strength for the descent. And what a descent it was.

The ‘path’ from the Chanderkani Pass down to Malana was through thick, high foliage and over steep rocks. It was incredibly beautiful, and the view down to the road that passed through the Malana Valley was dizzyingly far below. Again, I wanted to kiss my poles.

And perhaps even the amazingly helpful Ranjit, who physically helped me down much of the way. I couldn’t have done it without him (though I did refrain from kissing him—I’ve picked up enough handsome South Asian guides for one lifetime).

By the time we reached the campsite just outside Malana, after four hours of descent, my legs were barely holding me up, and even my arm muscles

were sore from using them for support on my poles. Full-body workout! I had read that this trek was ‘strenuous’, and after the first two days I thought that was silly. There’s no way that the uphill sections of the Naggar to Malana trek are strenuous if you’re fit. But the downhill is an entirely different story.

Plus, if it had been raining, the path down from the pass would’ve been dangerous.

The weather was clear on the evening of day three, so I enjoyed the sunset views down the Malana Valley towards the Parvati Valley, while camped on a small ridge overlooking the town of Malana.

Day 4: Malana to Jari It rained a little overnight, but by the time I awoke we were just engulfed in cloud. My legs were pretty sore, but there was still a lot of descent left ahead of me.

We started the day by taking a walk to Malana Village, just ten minutes from the campsite. This had been one of the most isolated settlements in Himachal Pradesh until a road was built through the Malana Valley several years ago, at the same time as a hydropower project. In fact, Malana village is the only settlement in the Malana Valley.

The people of Malana believe they are descended from the soldiers of Alexander the Great, from his men who broke away while passing through this area and settled with locals. They say that the fair complexions, hair and eyes

Malana is an isolated and culturally unique village in Himachal Pradesh. Photo: Mivr.

www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

of Malana natives is evidence of this European ancestry. I couldn’t see how they differed in appearance from other Himachalis, who tend to be relatively fair-skinned Indians, with dark brown hair and hazel or green eyes.

village walls is Rs 2500. There are guesthouses on the edges of Malana for visitors to stay in, but they are run by non-natives to Malana, and are not permitted within the actual perimeters of the village.

This isn’t the only interesting thing about Malana. The people there practice a very strict form of untouchability, and believe that all outsiders are unclean untouchables.

Visitors are welcome to visit, but they are not allowed to touch anything except the ground they walk upon.

There are signs warning that the fine for touching the temple or

The third interesting thing about Malana is that it’s where (apparently) the finest marijuana in the world is cultivated. Malana Cream is legendary, so ‘they’ say, and many people come to Malana simply to smoke it. Ranjit told me that most of the guesthouses around the town are patronised by young Israelis, who stay for months on end.

After our stroll around Malana (being careful not to touch anything!) it was time to continue the descent. It took about an hour and a half to get to the road at the bottom of the Malana Valley, which ran alongside the steep Malana River. My legs were incredibly stiff, but the path wasn’t as challenging as the previous days’. After the descent, there was still another two hour walk along the road to the Parvati Valley.

The Malana Valley branches off the larger Parvati Valley, and once we got to the meeting point of the two valleys it was evident just how steep the sides of the Malana Valley are, and just how remote this little branch is.

The mountains of Himachal Pradesh are green during the monsoon. Photo: Deepak123.

Practicalities:

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•

Travel and trekking agencies in Manali and Naggar arrange treks to Malana. I used the Naggar-based Himalayan Mountain Trekking Centre. It’s not recommended to trek alone for the usual reasons, and because of the drug trade here. I didn’t see any evidence of this, but I am pretty naïve about these things.

•

This trek is ‘strenuous’. Even though the uphill parts aren’t too tough, the downhill is extremely challenging. Don’t even consider doing this trek without trekking poles, unless you are a mountain goat.

•

It’s worth hanging around for a day or two in Naggar before/after the trek. It’s a pretty town with great value accommodation and some interesting sights, such as a wooden palace, some amazing carved temples and the beautiful Roerich Museum.

It makes a good alternative base in the Kullu Valley to busy Manali.

www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

Heli Sightseeing Package: For group of 3 pax Itinerary Schedule: 07:00 am: Reporting time at the airport Heli takes off from the Kathmandu airport Each pax gets a Window Seat Mountain sightseeing all the way to Everest Base Camp 5 - 10 minutes landing at Kala Patthar for quick photography Return back to Syanboche - landing at Everest View Resort Breakfast in Syangboche Return back to Kathmandu Total Flight time: 03 hours, approximately

For group of 4 - 5 pax Itinerary Schedule: 07:00 am: Reporting time at the airport Heli takes off from the Kathmandu airport Heli lands at Everest View Resort, Syangboche Drops off passenger and takes off with 3 passengers Does the Mountain flight and lands at Kala Patthar 5 - 10 minutes for photography Return back to Everest View Resort Returns back for mountain flight and landing at Kala Patthar with remaining passengers Returns back to Everest View Resort Return back to Kathmandu after all pax have taken their breakfast Total Flight time: 03.30 minutes, approximately

NOTE: Landing at EBC/Kalapatthar Subject To Weather Condition.

For More Details, Please Contact:

Royal Mountain Travel - Nepal Lal Durbar, Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal +977 1 4444376 / 78 / 79 info@royalmt.com.np, www.royalmt.com.np

www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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Hiking Route: Sanga to Panauti or Panauti to Sanga

For More Details, Please contact:

communityhike.com

Lal Durbar, Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal +977 1 4444376 /78 / 79 info@communityhike.com 24

www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

Life and Death in a Remote Bhutanese Village

by Joshua Cook

It is said that in the 14th century, the deity Aum Jomo helped the Yamarong villagers of Tibet behead their tyrannical king. They then fled the area, traveling south through the Himalayas. Aum Jomo warded off malevolent lake spirits and mountain yetis and guided the villagers through the precipitous terrain, into Bhutan.

Once they reached a high pass, the villagers saw a green valley beneath them awash with flame. Aum Jomo told the villagers that she had consecrated the area in fire for them; it was their new home. They built a village in the valley and it became known as Merak, the “Burning Place.”

The original Yamarong villagers are now called the Brokpa people. Those who made it to Merak identify themselves as the strongest and the fittest of the original settlers because they made it over the mountain pass. There are other Brokpa scattered throughout the region, but those who live in the remote, high altitudes of Merak are favored by Aum Jomo, they say. Much fortune has been bestowed on them— the riches of yak, cheese, fine clothing—and they are blessed with good luck and prosperity.

Photos: Joshua Cook

www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

My journey to Merak was much less epic than the original Yamarong villagers’. Still, in a black night, weathering the monsoon and traversing a backroad the consistency of porridge, I prayed fervently to whatever deity would look after me.

I was crammed into a two-wheel drive Mahindra Bolero along with a few of my students. They had invited me to Merak, their home, for summer vacation. The driver was cavalier about the conditions. He fishtailed the back end of the truck up the muddy road, bringing the rear tires dangerously close to a precipitous cliff edge more than once. The students yelped and clawed at their seats, admonishing the driver in their Brokpa language. He disregarded them and continued revving the engine, swimming the Bolero up through the muck and mire.

“Bad road,” the driver said to me in what few English words he knew.

“Good driver,” I replied, feigning confidence.

He smiled, revealing betel nut-stained teeth.

By one in the morning we skidded onto an open meadow.

Opposite us were stone houses with wooden doorways illuminated by bare bulbs. In the rain and mist, the light from the houses seemed to pulse, reminding me of the story of Aum Jomo’s flames.

Pema, the student acting as my host in Merak, explained: “We’re here.” *** In the morning, after a breakfast of yak cheese curry and rice, Pema took me to his grandmother’s house. He told me that she was very ill.

“This is our custom, sir. When someone is sick in the village, we always pay the person a visit. When we are sick, we do not want to be alone. Besides, I think that Grandmother will be moving on to the next life now. She is truly, very sick. We must visit her.”

We meandered through the closely packed houses, a light rain continuing to fall. The village looked medieval.

The road we had arrived on ended before the village, so there was no main thoroughfare, only tight, sopping walking paths and hidden alleyways. At a turn we were greeted by curious children, their swarthy faces peering over a wall to get a glimpse of me, the odd foreigner. At another turn, a horse huffed blithely and clomped on by.

At Pema’s grandparents’ house, a woman greeted us at the door. She wore the traditional Brokpa clothing, a thick, faded wool dress that had once been light beige maybe, but was now dirty from labor. It was tied at the waist with a wide, colorful belt. Over the dress she wore a red woolen jacket, embroidered with bright blue, pink and yellow patterns. A beautiful necklace with large, orange, turquoise, and red beads hung down to her waist. Atop her head perched the quintessential Brokpa hat, a small, stiff yak hair beret with four long tendrils extending from it.

Pema explained who I was and that we had come to visit Grandmother. At this, the woman’s stern, weathered face produced a suggestion of a smile and she motioned for us to enter the house.

There were many women sitting around the grandmother.

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www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

They stood to receive me. Each of them was wearing the same kind of traditional dress, with slight variations that humbly demonstrated their own individual styles.

The women looked hard as nails, calloused by village life and stoic with the prospect of Grandmother’s death.

Grandmother was sitting quietly on a rug in the corner. She had a blanket over her and was rocking slightly against a teenage girl who lovingly held her and rubbed her back.

I approached her slowly. She didn’t realize I was there, but was focusing on something else, something far away.

Her brow was furrowed and she whispered some furtive message to herself. I bowed and quietly greeted her.

“Kuzu zangpo la.”

The younger girl whispered to Grandmother, signaling to her that I was there. The old woman slowly looked up at me, wondering who this foreigner was, why was he here, what was this a sign of? She held out her fragile hands to receive mine, acknowledging me as perhaps the last new acquaintance of her life.

I sat down near Pema, on a small rug near the woodstove.

The walls were black with varnish from years of smoke and the planks of the wood floor were polished from the constant traffic of bare feet and the shuffling of rugs. Yak skins filled with cheese rested against the wall. The fetid, sour odor mixed with the smell of wood smoke and an earthy scent from the villagers themselves.

Pema’s aunt offered me souja, yak butter tea. She went to work on an old butter churn, the thick milk sucking loudly as she pushed the stick up and down. The sound seemed to violate the sanctity of the space, considering Grandmother’s condition, but no one was bothered. Even amidst death, daily life for the Brokpa must go on.

With Grandmother only a step away, Pema explained matter-of-factly: “She’ll go to the next life very soon.”

Perhaps it wasn’t a turn-of-phrase. When one believes in reincarnation, as these villagers do, there is less to be sad about when faced with death. But still, there was a tangible melancholy in the room.

I watched the young girl rocking Grandmother, as she continued to murmur to herself. Pema’s aunt put the mug of souja in front of me and then placed another one in front of Grandfather, who I had only just noticed. He wore a red woolen hat, an old, frayed down coat and sweat pants with stains and holes. His eyes were puffy and bloodshot, and as he sipped at his tea he kept looking over at Grandmother and then back at me.

I was certain that Grandmother was going to pass away right there. I was afraid. I have never seen someone die.

I thought that it wasn’t fair that I, a stranger, should be in her home for such a moment. But whether I should be there or not was irrelevant to my hosts. The routine of daily life would not stop for Grandmother, even though it might be her last day as part of that routine.

Grandfather caught my eye and he smiled weakly. There was a hollow pain in his eyes. Then Grandmother became very quiet. She stopped whispering and lay against the young girl. She was very still, her eyes closed. The women and Grandfather looked on. It felt like I was in a vacuum; all the air had been extracted from the room.

Had the time come?

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I no longer wanted to be part of the village.

I didn’t want to see the locals’ experience. I wanted to be a tourist again, outside in the rain, only wondering what it was like to be inside a Brokpa home. I wanted ignorance again, unaware of the reality of life and death in Merak.

But Grandmother opened her eyes. She looked surprised that she was still in the room. She cringed in pain and began rocking again while the young girl rubbed her back. The air returned to the room. The women went back to shuffling about, attending to their chores, and to me, the guest.

When I finished my tea, Pema signaled to me that we could leave. I stood outside among the houses.

The clouds had lifted slightly and I could see the verdant peaks surrounding the village. The monsoon had painted them a vibrant green.

Grandfather came out of the room and removed his hat.

“My grandfather is showing you great respect,” Pema explained.

I felt abashed and unworthy as Grandfather greeted me.

I held his hand with both of mine. His were hands of a million stories and a million hardships, and I felt like today was one of the hardest. After I let go, he rung them together uncomfortably and looked up at me.

“Tell him thank you for inviting me into his home.”

Pema translated. Grandfather nodded and said something in his language, then slipped away again back into the house, to be with Grandmother.

“Grandfather says to please come again for tea,” Pema told me. “He says that you are always welcome here.”

www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

Alone but Never Lonely:

The Annapurna Circuit in Winter

by Joshua Cook

A highlight of winter trekking is having the trails to yourself. Photo: Tashi Sherpa.

“When I arrived at the miniscule village of Braga, the only guesthouse in town was closed. I told a local resident of my predicament and he offered me a room behind his restaurant” Barefoot, I ascended the steps at the entrance of a Tibetan-style monastery that sat high above the Manang Valley in the Annapurna Himalayas. Peering through the massive doorway, I found the main room dark and empty, except for a golden Buddha sitting in composed serenity at the far end of the room. He seemed to look on with approval, and welcomed me inside.

The place smelled of varnished wood and shadows. On the floor of the adjacent wall, I was flanked by a row of thick winter robes that had been left standing up, as if the monks who once wore them had simply evaporated.

I prostrated before the hospitable

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Buddha three times. The only sounds were the creaking wood beneath my feet, the shuffling of my clothes, and the wind outside. When I turned to leave, I went back through the entrance and my eyes had to adjust to the blinding brightness of snow and sky. When they did, I was overwhelmed by the view that stretched out in front of me: the sharp fall into the valley, the village below, and the stark rise through the pine forests, culminating at the enormous blue-white peaks that scraped the clouds. At the top of the steps, with the monastery behind me and the whole of the Annapurna range in front, I thought: Could this moment really be mine alone?

www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

I had stumbled upon a secret that only a few trekkers knew: Winter is truly the best time to be on the Annapurna Circuit.

Before I started the trek, however, I was not so convinced. “It will be very cold,” a local guide told me. “You will have to have a good sleeping bag and warm clothes.”

About a week in, I knew that this was true. But only at night. Once the trail reached above 3000 metres and the sun went down, the temperatures dropped to well below freezing.

However, there was an easy solution.

With a dearth of visitors in the area,

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

extra blankets were aplenty at every guesthouse, and I piled them over my sleeping bag to stay warm enough for a good night’s sleep.

Enduring the nights was worth it when the days were so spectacular.

In three weeks on the Circuit, only four days challenged me with inclement weather. The rest of the time the conditions were perfect. Views like the one from the Upper Pisang Monastery were a daily occurrence. Not a single peak was obscured, and the true scale could be felt.

Another fear I had had was the state of Thorung Pass. What if it’s closed off by snow? became a question that nagged at me along the way. Or worse: What if a storm comes in when I am trying to cross? But the same risks exist in the spring, and blizzards can even come in October, the busiest time of year.

Luckily, the pass had little snow when I crossed it. There was only a light wind, and it wasn’t even cold enough to require a coat.

The most common warning I had received before embarking was: “There won’t be anyone else there. You’ll be alone.”

It turned out to be true. Alone, I explored ancient monasteries around Muktinath and meandered through dilapidated villages of stone and mud in Humde and Pisang. Alone, I circumambulated stupas near Chame, and alone I made my way across the arid expanse of Lower Mustang. When I walked by mani walls in Marpha and turned each prayer wheel, leaving them spinning and creaking in my wake, there was no one else behind me. Alone I stopped for water breaks and snacks in the middle of forests, listening to the wind carving through the mountains, the patter of melting snow falling from pine boughs, and the birdsong that filled the trees.

Though I was alone much of the time, I never felt lonely. In being alone, these moments were infused with a supernatural quality, with the sanctity of having a solitary experience in one of the most extraordinary environments in the Himalayas.

The winter season does not deplete the Annapurna area of all vestiges of life. There were many people to greet with a friendly namaste. Villagers waited outside the few guesthouses that stayed open. I’d sit with them at lunch and engage in conversation.

The weather is also likely to be clear in winter. Photo: Ashok Amatya.

www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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Without the incessant chores that the high season brings, they were more available to talk about themselves, their culture, and their people.

Occasionally I would also come across another trekker or two and we would exchange pleasantries—“How’s your day going? Where are you headed?

Where did you come from?”—and then, acknowledging the comfort we had found in our respective aloneness, we would bid each other farewell and set off again at our own pace.

There were occasional inconveniences.

When I arrived at the miniscule village of Braga, the only guesthouse in town was closed. I told a local resident of my predicament and he offered me a room behind his restaurant. When he took me there, I could see that the accommodation was the equivalent of a low, ramshackle toolshed that had been fitted with a short bed and assiduously decorated with magazine cutouts of Nepali models. Clearly it was his personal room, but he lent it to me for the night. I spent the evening with him and his family in their warm kitchen, drinking and talking until it was time for bed. What I originally thought was an inconvenience turned into one of my most memorable nights of the trek.

Muktinath Temple is a year-round pilgrimage site. Photo: Tashi Sherpa.

It is hard for me to imagine such moments of hospitality and intimacy when the Annapurna Circuit trek is at its busiest. There would be no time for a restaurant owner to entertain just another traveller. With all the guesthouses open, I wouldn’t have found myself asking a regular local for lodging in the first place.

The high passes could be covered in snow in winter, so check local forecasts. Photo: Ashok Amatya.

One of the greatest pleasures of being in the Annapurnas in the offseason was the daily potential for surprise. What hidden building would I explore in silence? What engaging conversation with a local yak herder would I have through gestures and smiles? There was no sense that I ought to be doing something because that’s what everyone else was doing. Rather, every day I knew I could go at my pace and choose an itinerary that felt right in the moment.

Whatever I chose, the path ahead was sure to be unobstructed with crowds, the weather would be clear, and the day would be ripe for unique and personal discoveries.

Villages blanketed in snow are especially picturesque. Photo: Tashi Sherpa.

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www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

SIGHTSEEING TOUR

Kathmandu Route 1

Kathmandu Route 2

Route: Boudhanath Stupa - Pashupatinath Temple - Patan Durbar Square

Route: Bhaktapur City - Panauti Town

Starting time: 10:00 AM

Reporting time: 09:30 AM

Starting time: 09:45 AM

Reporting time: 09:45 AM

Meeting Place: RMT Office Building, Lal Durbar Marg

Meeting Place: RMT Office Building, Lal Durbar Marg

Services included: English Speaking Tour Guide, Private AC Vehicle as per group size

Services included: English Speaking Tour Guide, Private AC Vehicle as per group size Guaranteed Departure: Every Saturday, Sunday & Monday Private Group Departure: Available if there is minimum 05 pax in a group

Guaranteed Departure: Every Saturday, Sunday & Monday Private Group Departure: Available if there is minimum 05 pax in a group

For more details, please contact:

Royal Mountain Travel - Nepal P.O. Box: 8720 Lal Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: +977-1-4444376 / 78 / 79 Fax: +977-1-4444380 Email: info@royalmt.com.np URL: www.royalmt.com.np www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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A warm local welcome at a community homestay. Photo: RMT.

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

Getting Local in Nepal’s Community Homestays

by Elen Turner

While luxurious hotels with all the mod-cons can be a nice way to travel, travellers interested in getting to know local people and culture can find this a limiting way of experiencing a country. If you’ve seen the inside of one generic hotel you’ve pretty much seen them all. But in Nepal, the Community Homestay programme (CommunityHomestay.com), an initiative of Royal Mountain Travel, offers an innovative and unique service for travellers wanting a comfortable place to sleep as well as local flavour, warm hospitality and the chance to see and experience things not otherwise accessible to travellers.

The flagship Community Homestay programme was established in Panauti, a charming and very well-preserved Newar town around 40 kilometres outside the Kathmandu Valley. With the success of Panauti, Community Homestay networks are now operational in Patan, Nagarkot, Nuwakot, Patlekhet, Palpa, two locations in Chitwan (Barauli and Sauraha), and along the Annapurna Community Trekking route in the mountains.

One of the main goals of the Community Homestays is the empowerment of local women. Most hosts are housewives without another independent source of income. After joining the Community Homestay networks, many of these women

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www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

end up making just as much money as their husbands.

Women’s financial strength and independence has been proven to be good for families and communities. The women are also given access to English language classes and other training, and their self-confidence and skills have improved through their involvement.

To establish a homestay network in any particular area, ten families or households need to collaborate. These are not just individual homes that have opened their doors to travellers, but truly collaborative community efforts that run on a roster system. Further, each community homestay collective must choose a cause to support, such as the re/ building of a school or community centre, or the sponsorship of a child’s school fees. Twenty percent of proceeds must be put directly back into the community. The ‘community’ in Community Homestay is not just a name.

If every traveller to Nepal was to spend just one night at one of the nine Community Homestay venues, the effects on local families and communities would be enormous. Travellers would also leave Nepal with a greater understanding of ordinary Nepali life and culture. So, what can guests at Community Homestays expect?

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Accommodation

Food

Every homestay is different, as these are real homes.

Some buildings are newer and on the edge of town; others may be older and located in the centre. But each home is required to meet a good standard before opening its doors to travellers, and must provide private rooms and modern bathrooms. Guest rooms are simply furnished but comfortable, with attached bathrooms with hot water.

The food will also differ across the country. While dal bhat (lentil curry and rice) is the favourite of almost all Nepali people, the way it is prepared varies, as does what accompanies it. Side dishes are usually seasonal and made with locally grown vegetables. In the Newar towns you may get a chance to try local Newari specialties. This local cuisine is full of meat curries and can be very spicy, but is unlike any other cuisine that you are likely to try, so dig in!

At the Barauli and Tharu Community Homestays, in different parts of the Chitwan area, guests stay in their own huts, within the vicinity of the host’s. These are built in the traditional style with mud and natural materials, but come with modern attached bathrooms.

You will also get the chance to participate in a cooking class, joining the women in their kitchen and then eating the results afterwards. Whether you’ve never made Nepali food before or consider yourself an excellent chef, you’ll certainly learn something new from your hosts. You might come home with a new pickle recipe, or a better understanding of how to get your roti perfectly round. Your hosts will enjoy teaching you (and, if those roti aren’t so round, they’ll laugh along with you).

Activities A major benefit of staying at a Community Homestay over a hotel is that you will get the chance to be involved in all kinds of local activities. If you’d prefer a more relaxing time, there’s no pressure to sign up for everything (although this is definitely recommended!) Activities and excursions vary depending on the location, and that’s a good reason to stay at Community Homestays throughout Nepal.

www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

Guided walks and hiking Several of the homestays are located within prime hiking territory. The Nagarkot Community Homestays are close to jungles and waterfalls, making for good day hikes.

At Palpa, don’t miss the sunrise views from Shrinagar Hill. The recently opened Panauti to Sanga Community Hike is a comfortable but exhilarating day hike through Tamang villages, and is an ideal excursion to incorporate into a stay in Panauti. Even in the more urban areas like Patan (south of central Kathmandu) you will be guided through the old backstreets and hidden courtyards of the atmospheric ancient city.

If you’re looking for more of a challenge, the Annapurna Community Trek is an ideal combination of classic Nepal trekking and homely comforts. The five-day trek starts at Galeshwor—five kilometres from Beni, in the Myadgi District of the Annapurna Himalayas—and passes through Bhanskharka, Nangi, Mohare Danda and Tikot.

It goes through very similar terrain as the more popular Poon Hill trek. In fact, from just below the highest point of Mohare Danda, Poon Hill is visible. But the Annapurna Community Trek has the advantage of housing trekkers entirely in homestays and community-run lodges. Even in the peak trekking season you are likely to have the trails all to yourself, which cannot be said for the betterknown trekking routes around Nepal.

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Jungle safaris

Join in local festivals

In the Chitwan-area homestays you will, of course, have a chance to enter the Chitwan National Park on a safari. This park has run an incredibly successful rhino conservation project, and you are practically guaranteed to see at least one of the enormous and magnificent animals in the park.

Bird watchers will also be in heaven, as there are numerous species of colourful and more camouflaged birds to look out for. Jeep safaris are the safest way to get close to the rhinos. You can also go on a sunset cruise along the river, to spot the rare, thin-snouted gharial crocodile and enjoy the peaceful scenery.

Nepal has so many cultural festivals happening throughout the year, most of which are rooted in Hindu and Buddhist traditions. The best-known festivals are Tihar, Dashain and Holi, which coincide with the peak seasons in autumn and spring. However, these are far from the only festivals in Nepal, and with only a little bit of planning you can coincide a stay at a Community Homestay with a fascinating festival. For example, during Teej, married women traditionally dress in red and celebrate their married life by dancing and singing together. During Buddha Jayanti, Buddhists celebrate the birth of Siddharth Gautama Buddha. Celebrating such festivals at a local household will definitely enhance the experience.

www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

Participate in agricultural activities

Volunteering

As many of the homestays are located in rural or semirural areas surrounded by farmland, agricultural festivals are an especially important part of the annual calendar.

If you happen to be in Panauti or Nuwakot during riceplanting season, you too can get knee-deep in the fields and join in the important task of planting Nepal’s staple crop. While the wet monsoon months are not peak tourist season in Nepal, they can actually be a beautiful time to visit the countryside, as the greens of the farmland will be so vibrant and lush.

If you are interested in staying for more than just a couple of days, it’s also possible to volunteer in local schools, teaching English or other skills. Ask about this possibility when booking, so this can be arranged.

There may also be the chance to milk the cows and gather firewood and fodder in some of the rural communities.

Patlekhet Community Homestay is set beside an organic farm. From there you can walk to a community forest and to learn about terrace farming and the traditional agricultural systems of Nepal.

Other activities available at different locations may include bike riding, school visits and henna painting. One of the highlights of staying at a Community Homestay is that your experience will be totally unique and personalised to guests and hosts, so going in with an open mind and a sense of adventure will take you far.

Your visit to a Community Homestay in Nepal may end up being the highlight of your trip.

Take a cooking class and enjoy your meal together afterwards. Photo: RMT.

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Mustang Bon Community Homesta

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Humla

Annapurna C

Darchula

Bajhang Baitadi

hura deld Dah

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Mugu

Tam

Bajura

Doti

Kalikot

Achham

Jumla

Dolpa

Mustang

Kanchanpur Dailekh

Jajarkot

Kailali

Rukum

Manang

Su rkh et Bardia

Myagdi Salyan

Baglung

Rolpa

Kaski

Banke

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Pyuthan

Bardia Community Homestay

Dang

Pa rb et Sy an ja

jun Lam Gulmi Arga khachi

ahu Tan

Palpa Kapilbastu

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Palpa Community Homestay

SAMPLE ITINERARY Day 1:

Arrival in Kathmandu

Day 2:

Sightseeing tour of Bouddhanath Stupa & Pashupatinath Temple and drive to Patlekhet Community Homestay.

Day 3:

Panauti Community Homestay

Day 4:

Hike from Panauti to Sanga via Chamkharka Village and drive to Neydo Monastary via Bhaktapur

Day 5:

Drive to Chitwan

Day 6:

Jungle activities in Chitwan

Day 7:

Palpa Community Homestay

Day 8:

Drive to Pokhara

Day 9:

Sarangkot & World Peace Pagoda Hiking

Day10: Fly back to Kathmandu & Transfer to Patan Community Homestay

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ehi end Rup

2

Barauli Community Homestay

3

Nuwakot Community Homestay

Day12: Departure

We are regularly welcoming new communities into our Homestay Network.

For the updated information, visit our website www.communityhomestay.com. www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

C

Tharu Community Homestay

Day11: Sightseeing tour of Swayambhunath

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i ras lpa wa Na

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Community Trek

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mang Heritage Trail

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Lalitpur

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Patan Community Homestay

Rasuwa

Nuwakot Dolakha

Udaypur Dhan usa

Sar lah i

Rau tah at

Khotang

Taplejung

1

m hu r at r e tha ch Th n Pa

Bhojpur

Dhankuta

Ilam

Siraha Saptari

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a bh asa w hu nk Sa

Okhaldhunga

Sindhuli

Ba ra

Solukhumbu

Kavre

Ma kaw an pu r

Maho ttari

Dh ad ing

Sindhupalchowk

Par sa

Chitwan

Nagarkot Community Homestay

Kathmandu

i ar ns u S

ng ra Mo

Jhapa

Panauti Community Homestay

Patlekhet Community Homestay

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Illam Community Homestay

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‘Patience Is A Virtue.’

Women brewing local alcohol, rakshi, according to the centuries old tradition.

Photo: Tashi Sherpa. www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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The Guest are ‘Truly’ Gods in Bhutan

by Kerry Tolson

The tranquility of a rural Bhutanese village. Photo: Sudeep Singh.

“Waking to scenery that will forever remain etched in our memories, Mal and I join the family on their morning chores.

Milking. By hand. I believe I was a jillaroo in a past life, and I am an old hand with cattle”

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The sun’s soft glow burns off the morning mist and reveals a stand of fluttering vertical white flags, offering prayers for the dead. Golden haystacks dot the rice terraces, and a carpet of glossy red chilies glints from a distant rooftop. An awakening house murmurs: the handle of a bucket clinking, a butter churner gurgling, red rice being placed in the alter-room, the jangling whir of a prayer-wheel. These are the preparations for the day ahead, and I’m eager to join in.

Spending the night in a rural family homestay was a high priority for Mal and me on our trip to Bhutan. Visiting this remote Himalayan kingdom requires most travellers to stay in government-approved hotels. But with seventy percent of the population living in rural communities, we were eager to immerse ourselves in an authentic local experience. The Bhutanese are renowned for their hospitality—on a tour you’ll soon forget how to open a door for yourself, pour milk into your tea or carry your own bag. This hospitality extends beyond the boundaries of the tour, though. When wandering through a rural village, children will shyly follow, and men and women greet you with kuzu zangpo la (hello) and an invitation to sip butter-tea (su ja). The response, kadrin chhe la (thank you) rolls off the tongue so many times a day that I sometimes mistakenly used it as a greeting.

Bone-rattled and dusty from our long drive on Bhutan’s perilous national highway, the Lateral Road (currently in the midst of reconstruction – all at once!) we arrived at the small remote village of Tangsibji. The homestay is in a double storey farmhouse adorned with elaborately painted windows and large carved phalluses dangling from the rafters. Inside it’s rustic and comfortable, and our host family consists of the Strongest Man of Bhutan, Phuntsho Wangdi, his wife Sherab Dem and their three sons.

Each year, the quest to find Bhutan’s Strongest Man (Nyagoe) begins with twenty robust men, who are whittled down to five after months of training and testing. The final five compete against each other at the King’s Birthday Celebrations. In addition to displaying feats of immense strength, they must fight – on all fours like a ‘bull’ – until a winner is crowned.

Phuntsho’s strength is evident, but it is his gentle teasing humour that radiates brightly. Although he and Sherab speak almost no English, our conversations, peppered with hand signals and smiles, continuously flow.

We exchange khatas (ceremonial scarfs) and Australian macadamia nuts, and the kitchen fills with tantalising aromas. The other villagers visit as a feast is prepared. Mal plunges into a bowl of bright red chillies, slicing and de-seeding as Phuntsho guides him in making the national dish, Ema Daste (chili cheese). This is eaten at every meal in Bhutan. I join Sherab, crushing garlic and dicing ridge-gourd and fiddlehead ferns, to be cooked with cheese to make Nakay Tshoem.

When Sherab’s sister arrives, I’m taken upstairs and tucked into a kira – a beautiful long skirt, tied so tightly at the waist I can barely breathe – and a silk blouse, wonju. Mal is handsomely decked out in a gho, although he feels a little exposed and wears his thermal longs so he doesn’t ‘surprise’ anyone.

More guests arrive and the singing and dancing begins. There is much giggling and clapping as we are encouraged to join in. When Mal and I break into a small Salsa set and try to give a little lesson, the giggles turn to raucous laughter.

Our tastebuds savour the spicy cuisine, intensified by sips of warm homemade ara (rice wine). We sit cross-legged in a circle on wide polished floorboards that would be highly sought after back home. It’s a filling meal, and this

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is what the Bhutanese are so famous for: the desire to ensure guests never leave their kitchen hungry. We contently waddle upstairs to our room and sleep on the floor under blankets so soft and warm that we feel toasted.

Waking to scenery that will forever remain etched in our memories, Mal and I join the family on their morning chores. Milking.

By hand. I believe I was a jillaroo in a past life, and I am an old hand with cattle.

However, I barely have a covering of white in the bucket’s bottom before the cow has finished her pail of warm barley and vegetable gruel. By the time I have an empty cow and a decent amount of milk for the churner, Sherab has attended to the other four cows.

Morning chores. Photo: Kerry Tolson.

Meanwhile, Mal is in his element. He and Phuntsho, along with some local village men and Phuntsho’s sons, all have their heads under the two-wheeled rotary tiller, which also doubles as the family’s car.

They are all having a happy, greasy time.

Soon the time comes to leave this lovely family, but not before Mal is persuaded to try his hands at Bhutan’s national pastime, archery. He won’t be trying out for the Olympics anytime soon.

As we leave the family follows. Bundled in their little vehicle, they wave us off and we take their warm smiles with us.

Bhutanese believe in a wonderful proverb, ‘Atithi Devo Bhava’, meaning ‘the guest is truly your god’. The Bhutanese consider it a great honour to open their home to guests.

To be that guest, it is indeed a humbling honor to receive such generous hospitality.

A typical Bhutanese village. Photo: RMT.

Ornately decorated Bhutanese homes. Photo: RMT.

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w w w. n e y d o h o t e l . c o m

Tucked away in the Himalayas of Nepal’s Kingdom, amidst the most scenic area, there lies a Buddhist Monastery Guest-house in the most peaceful location alongside Neydo Tashi Choeling Monastery, just 22km or less than an hour’s drive from the heart of hectic Kathmandu. It is located in the southwest corner of the Kathmandu Valley close to Pharping. www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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The Mardi Himal Trek

by Ross Adkin

The Annapurna range in central Nepal is home to some of the world’s most iconic mountain landscapes and crisscrossed by some of the country’s most popular trekking routes. For those looking for a less-travelled and gentler glimpse of this spectacular terrain, the 4-5 day Mardi Himal trek is perfect.

“Just as the sun was going down we caught a glimpse of Machhapuchhre through a clearing in the trees”

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Slightly more rigorous than your average mountain ramble, the trek consists of walking up and then along a ridge that juts into the Annapurnas, to a viewpoint perched at the end of it. Stunning views of the lesserknown side of one of the range’s most famous peaks - the 6993 metre-high Machhapuchhre (Fishtail) - alone make the trek worth doing.

Last March a friend, needing some respite from the pollution and haze of Delhi, took a week off work and came to Nepal. From Kathmandu we took a microbus to Pokhara, around seven hours away. The next morning we bought our permits at the Annapurna Conservation Area Project office in the city, and then took a local bus to the village of Kande, about an hour to the north, where we were to begin walking.

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The first section of the trail consisted of a lot of stone steps, going up, and fields and villages of thatched roofs on the level stages. The way was well signposted (the whole trail was, and Mardi Himal can easily be done independently). However, for the local folklore, cultural information, and to know the locals better, it is a suggestion to take a local guide with you.

That night we stayed in Pothara, a cluster of lodges and hotels that we reached in the late afternoon, lulled to sleep by our tired legs and a pre-monsoon thunderstorm.

The next morning the mountains revealed themselves on both sides of the ridge, massive and imposing, snow dazzling in the bright early sun.

They were much closer than we had imagined the night before, and after a breakfast of porridge, roti and whisky we set off to get a bit closer, feeling doubly encouraged.

We reached Forest Camp by late morning and had a long lunch as another shower passed over. The afternoon ascent was steep again in some places, and the path sometimes slippery, but this was made up for by the beauty of

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

Mountain panorama landscape of Annapurna region, Mardi Himal track. Photo: Verock.

the woods. This time of year they were a riot of pink rhododendrons, firs, and birches glinting in the fading light.

Just as the sun was going down we caught a glimpse of Machhapuchhre through a clearing in the trees. Instead of the endlessly-photographed flat, rather two dimensional triangular façade, in front of us were two separate peaks, twisting upwards in near symmetry with each other. They looked like the fins of a fish’s tail as it dived into the earth, and I finally understood why the mountain was given its name.

Low Camp (thankfully only twenty minutes further on) offered fantastic views of Machhapuchhre and other peaks in the range.

While there was light left we alternated between standing outside to look at the vista and warming our hands by the stove in the lodge. It was finally mountain cold.

Mountain road way track in valley and snow peak, Mardi Himal track. Photo: Verock.

Climbing again in the morning of day three, we soon noticed more and more rock and cliff around us, and a sharper wind. The fairytale woods appeared less regularly, and the patches of snow reflected the pinks, reds and purples of the rhododendrons.

High Camp (around 3500 metres) is the final resting point on the trail before the push along the ridge to the viewpoint, approximately two hours away. It is windy and exposed, and you could easily imagine yourself somewhere in the marches of Rohan. With the panorama of rock, snow, ice and sky in front of us, and the ridge stretching back to the green hills behind, we whiled away the afternoon here. It was cold at night and the whisky was again welcome.

We descended the next day, and when we reached Forest Camp late in the morning, we decided to leave the path that went along Piramid of stones. Annapurna South peak, Nepal, Mardi Himal track. Photo: Verock.

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Annapurna South peak, Hiun Chuli, Nepal, Mardi Himal track. Photo: Verock.

the spine of the ridge and drop down into the Mardi Khola valley. After a long afternoon of walking downhill we arrived in Bhuijung, a hamlet set lower down on the ridge’s flank. It rained heavily until late afternoon, when the sky broke and we were treated to stunning views back up the valley, the twin peaks of Machhapuchhre still visible above the dark green of the valley walls.

In March, the short trekking season, the trail was quiet. The accommodation at all stages was fairly basic. The food, which is far more important, was sufficient, with plenty of high energy stodge, apple pie and chocolate on offer.

You can be extremely flexible with the Mardi route: we could have descended the west flank of the ridge instead, into the Modi Khola valley, and made our way back to the road from there. A Welsh lady we walked with had already spent six weeks in the Annapurnas and had joined the Mardi route to make her final descent to Pokhara before flying home. She said she wasn’t sure she wanted to leave the mountains. The next morning, as we left Bhuijung and dawdled reluctantly down the valley to catch a local bus back to Pokhara, we glanced back regularly to catch final glimpses of the newly-discovered face of Machhapuchhre. I think we had some idea of what she felt.

The World Reveals

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Tips: • How to get there from Kathmandu?

Take a microbus (around US$7, 6-7 hours) or fly (US$100, 25 mins) to Pokhara. You can make further arrangements to Kande from there, either by local bus or taxi.

• What to wear: Sturdy shoes and warm layers for evenings at high altitude.

• When to go: March-April (chances of pre-monsoon thundershowers); October-December (the busier trekking season).

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Luring the Rains: Patan’s Rato Machchhindranath Festival

by Elen Turner

A god image decorates the outside of the chariot. Photo: Elen Turner.

“Throughout May, the rain clouds break into rumbles of thunder every couple of days, in response to the appropriate worship of Lord Machchhindranath. At least, that’s what Patan’s Newar community believe”

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As the pre-monsoon rain clouds begin to gather over Kathmandu and the heat builds to its sticky, dusty climax, something special is being built on Pulchowk Road in Patan. It starts as nothing more than an A-frame of branches atop a high wheeled platform—something like a tall, skinny Christmas tree. The thick traffic thunders past, but a roped-off section protects worshippers. Over a couple of weeks in May, the Rato Machchhindranath chariot takes shape—its multi-story, listing body streaming with colourful ribbons and decorative plaques, and four enormous orange wheels at its base.

Throughout May, the rain clouds break into rumbles of thunder every couple of days, in response to the appropriate worship of Lord Machchhindranath.

At least, that’s what Patan’s Newar community believe. There are festivals in Nepal to welcome every season and natural phenomenon, and the Rato Machchhindranath festival is one.

Faithful or not, one has to admit that the timing of this festival is immaculate. On the day that Pulchowk’s traffic is halted and thousands upon thousands of local residents fill every inch of space on the road, fat, grey raindrops start to

fall from the sky. The thunder storms that were only threatened earlier in the month become real.

Newars regard Rato Machchhindranath (‘rato’ means red in Nepali) as the god of rain and good harvest, and he is especially revered by farmers. The Rato Machchhindranath festival is one of the biggest festivals in Nepal, and is the longest. The story goes that the idol was brought from Assam, in northeast India, to end a twelve-year drought in the Kathmandu Valley. Now, every year sometime in April or May, the chariot is constructed to house the statue of the god (who usually lives in the town of Bungamati, seven kilometres away). The streets of Patan become festive; women come out wearing their brightest saris; peddlers sell balloons, colourful windmills for children and flowers and fruit to offer the god.

Four days after the god is placed inside the chariot, it is pulled through the streets of Patan. It is very big and heavy, so takes over a hundred people to pull it by rope. It doesn’t venture very far each day, less than a kilometre. It does a circuit over the next couple of weeks around the streets of Patan, past

the Kumari Chhen (the home of the living goddess), to the Durbar Square, the Sundhara, past the Mahabuddha Temple, up to the Lagankhel bus park, and finally stops in front of the zoo, in Jawalakhel. At Jawalakhel it is dismantled, and the god is taken back to his house in Bungamati. At least, he used to be. Now he’s kept in a makeshift construction, as the little town of Bungamati was all but destroyed in the 2015 earthquake.

For part of the chariot’s journey, the young Kumari of Patan sits inside. Once the chariot makes it to the bus park at Lagankhel, it stops there for a few days.

Early one morning, it is local women’s turn to pull the chariot. On all other days, it’s pulled by men. Young and old women turn up very early in the morning in their best clothing to pull it across the road. It’s a short journey, and only takes about 20 minutes. It is quite a media circus, the day women get to pull the chariot. Anyone who has seen Nepali women of the countryside knows that they are as tough as any men. It seems rather patronising to me that women are fawned over and congratulated on this day, as if they have only been imbued with the super-human power to pull the

The enormous chariot is pulled through the streets of Patan. Photo: Sudeep Singh.

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Women worship the god inside the chariot. Photo: Elen Turner.

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Traditional Newar guards locally known as “Gurju Paltan”, lead the procession. Photo: Sudeep Singh.

chariot on this one day. But, perhaps this is another aspect of Nepal’s urban-rural divide on display.

All of these details are very challenging for a non-Newar, non-Nepali to find out. As I live in Patan, I saw the chariot being built, but I didn’t know when it was going to move. I stopped to watch in fascination every time I passed. Because festivals in Nepal generally follow the Nepali calendar and the cycles of the moon, the dates aren’t fixed. In 2015, the Rato Machchhindranath festival was held in April (it actually started a couple of days before the earthquake), whereas

Chariot under construction. Photo: Guido Weers.

in 2016 it was in May. My attempts to look up information online didn’t come up with anything. It’s only because my Nepali teacher is part of the Patan Newari community that I was kept informed. We discussed my fascination with this unique cultural phenomenon in my broken Nepali, and he rewarded my interest by feeding me information when it filtered down to him.

There is something very moving about seeing so many people gathered to celebrate an aspect of traditional culture. In a world in which ‘tradition’ is increasingly packaged for the consumption of travellers, the Rato

Statue of Macchindranath being taken inside the chariot.

Photo: Sudeep Singh.

Machchhindranath festival could be nothing further from that.

Other similar chariot-based festivals are held in other Newari centres of the Kathmandu Valley. Patan’s Machchhindranath festival is ‘red’, whereas Kathmandu’s is white—Seto Machchhindranath. The three day festival is held in March/April, and resembles the Rato Machchhindranath festival is some important ways: the enormous chariot, the placement of the idol inside the chariot, and the involvement of the Kumari of Kathmandu.

A final touch. Photo: Sudeep Singh.

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Major Festivals of Nepal 2017-18 AUGUST

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SEPTEMBER

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KRISHNA JANMASTAMI Krishna Janmastami marks the birth of Krishna. Considered the eighth incarnation of Lord Vishnu, Krishna is the most important character in the Hindu epic, the Mahabharat. On this day Hindu devotees visit Krishna temples. In particular, thousands of devotees gather at the stone Krishna Mandir in Patan Durbar Square.

INDRA JATRA Indra Jatra is the most important festival of Kathmandu city, associated with Hindu God Indra, the king of heaven. The festival lasts for three days, with a chariot procession of the deities Ganesh, Bhairav and the Kumari (the living goddess). It starts in Kumari House at Basantapur Durbar Square in Kathmandu, and travels around the old parts of Kathmandu.

SEPTEMBER

TIHAR Tihar is Nepal’s second most important festival, after Dashain. On each of the three days a different deity is worshipped: on the first day the crow, the messenger of Yama (the bringer of death); on the second, dogs, which are believed to be Yama’s custodian; and on the third, the goddess Lakshmi is worshipped, the bringer of wealth. Lakshmi is worshipped by lighting houses with oil lamps, candles and colourful lights.

OCTOBER

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OCTOBER

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DASHAIN Dashain is the most important festival to Nepalis. It is a celebration of good prevailing over evil. Most families offer male goats, ducks, chickens, eggs and coconuts to the goddess Durga.

People return to their home villages and spend the fifteen-day festival with their families. Large swings are set up for children, and from the tenth day, family members receive Tika (rice, red vermillion and yoghurt) on their foreheads from their elders.

CHHATH Chhath is the most important festival observed in the Terai region, and falls on the seventh day after Tihar. Devotees fast and make offerings to the sun by gathering at riverbanks. The Terai region is the best place to observe this festival, or the Rani Pokhari tank in central Kathmandu.

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DECEMBER

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LHOSAR Lhosar is celebrated by Nepali ethnic groups who trace their history to Tibet, namely the Gurung, Tamang and Sherpa people. Lhosar is the first day of the new year, and each community celebrates the festival differently. Traditional dress is worn by young and old, and festivities held in cities and more remote regions.

MAGHE SANKRANTI Maghe Sankranti is celebrated by Hindus, and symbolises a farewell to the cold winter nights. Devotees eat ghee, yams and sweets made from molasses, and clean their houses thoroughly. It ushers in the warmer spring season..

JANUARY

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BASANTA PANCHAMI On this day, devotees worship goddess Saraswati, the goddess of knowledge and creator of arts, education and music.

Basanta Panchami also marks the end of winter and beginning of spring.

HOLI Holi is a very colourful and playful festival. It is celebrated in the Terai on one day, and in Kathmandu and the hill regions on the next day. People smear coloured powders on their friends, relatives and family members, and throw coloured water and water balloons. It’s important not to take any valuables out with you on this day, unless they are sealed in a plastic bag!

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MARCH

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Maha Shivaratri ‘Shivaratri’ means the ‘night of Lord Shiva’.

Devout Hindus bathe early in the morning and fast on this day. They visit Shiva temples. The best place to witness the festival is at the Pashupatinath temple of Kathmandu, where thousands of Sadhus (Hindu holy men) gather and smoke marijuana and hashish, considered dear to Lord Shiva. People also drink Bhang, a drink made by mixing ground nuts, spices, herbs and extracts of marijuana into milk.

GHODE JATRA Ghode Jatra is important to the Kathmandu Valley, and is celebrated to ward off demon Gurumapa. It is said the soul of the demon still lives underground at Tundikhel. To prevent him from rising again, a horse race is organised on this day by the Nepal Army.

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APRIL

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JULY 2018

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NEPALI NEW YEAR This is a major holiday in Nepal. A particularly lively place to spend the day is Bhaktapur, where the Bisket Jatra festival takes place. A huge chariot carrying the god Bhairab is pulled through the streets, ending with a chariot battle at Bhaktapur’s Khalna Tole.

BUDDHA JAYANTI (Buddha’s birthday) Buddha’s birthday falls on the first full day of the first month of the Hindu lunar calendar, and is celebrated by Hindus as well as Buddhists. It is observed at Buddhist shrines and monasteries throughout Nepal, but a particularly grand ceremony is held at Buddha’s birthplace in Lumbini, on the Terai. In Kathmandu, the Tibetan enclave of Boudhanath is a particularly good place to watch the festivities.

NAAG PANCHAMI Naag Panchami falls in the middle of the monsoon. It is a Hindu festival that worships the serpent god, Naag. Pictures of Naag are posted in doorways, and milk is offered to him. It is believed that worshipping Naag protects against snakebites. This festival marks respect to serpents as water guardians, and to ensure regular rainfall in the Kathmandu Valley.

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APRIL

21 2018

MAY JUNE 2018

MATA TIRTHA AUSHI (MOTHER’S DAY) On this day, children (including adult children!) offer sweets, fruits and gifts to their mothers to show their respect and gratitude. Those whose mothers have passed away visit Matatirtha in the west of Kathmandu, take holy bath and make offerings in their mother’s memory of their deceased mothers.

RATO MACHCHHENDRANATH This is Nepal’s longest and largest festival, held in Patan. A large chariot is built on Pulchowk Road over several weeks, and finally the god Machchhendranath is placed inside.

Three days later, the chariot begins its procession all throughout Patan and wider Lalitpur, towards Bungamati.

Machchhendranath is the Newar god of rain, and the festival ushers in the monsoon.

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The perfect place for exciting adventures and complete relaxation

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Trekkers descend to Pheriche with majestic views dominating the trail, and Mt Khangtega in the background.

Photo: Tashi Sherpa.

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“Kag, I was later to discover, had in the past been an important fortress town, one of the most advanced bastions of the Kingdom of Mustang. The sight of it showed that we had now left behind all contact with the Nepalese Hindu world and had entered the land of lamas and Buddhism.”

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LOWER MUSTANG A Land of Lamas and Buddhism

by Elen Turner

The centuries old Kagbeni Palace, now a private residence. Photo: Elen Turner.

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The rocky path leads up to meditation caves, carved into the cliffs. Photo: RMT.

“Kag, I was later to discover, had in the past been an important fortress town, one of the most advanced bastions of the Kingdom of Mustang. The sight of it showed that we had now left behind all contact with the Nepalese Hindu world and had entered the land of lamas and Buddhism.”

These words were written by French traveller Michel Peissel in his classic 1967 travelogue, Mustang: A Lost Tibetan Kingdom. And while the strenuous foot-powered journey to Kagbeni (and beyond) that he described fifty years ago is no longer necessary, there is much detail in his descriptions that still rings true.

Kagbeni is still a frontier town, the last point up to which foreign travellers can visit before Upper Mustang.

From Pokhara, there are two ways of reaching Jomsom, the entrance to Lower Mustang (or three, if you wanted to trek the whole way): by air or by bus/jeep. Flying is by far the quickest and most comfortable option, if a little daunting: flights leave early to avoid the strong winds that whip through Mustang by late morning. Although the flight is a short twenty minutes, they are memorable minutes as you soar through the Kali Gandaki Gorge, with Dhaulagiri and Tukuche to the west, and Nilgiri Central and Annapurna to the east. Taking a public bus or private vehicle between Pokhara and

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Jomsom is the ‘adventurous’ option, but can take more than ten hours along uncomfortable roads.

path to Marpha is quite obvious, along a vehicle road (which isn’t busy) and beside the river.

Jomsom is a single-street town full of lodges facing east, to the stunning mountain views that dominate the town. While in many places in Nepal the mountains are layered, meaning you don’t get a real sense of where the foot of a mountain lies, this is not so in Jomsom. The snow-covered peaks seem to rise directly and uninterrupted from ground-level at Jomsom.

Marpha itself is a clean, pretty town watered by paved canals of the sort found all over the Tibetan-influenced world. It’s surrounded by patches of green, irrigated farmland. A return hike to Marpha from Jomsom takes three hours, not including time to stop in Marpha for a slice of apple pie, which is definitely recommended. From Marpha there are signs pointing the way up to Dhaulagiri Base Camp, an expedition for people with more time and stamina than me.

Although the town itself is comprised mostly of modern buildings and lacks any particular charm, there are an abundance of cosy lodges, so it is worth basing yourself in the town for a couple of days to explore the area. Om’s Home is a comfortable and friendly option, with a Himalayan Java coffee shop conveniently located next door, and a terrace to sit and enjoy the sun (before the biting wind kicks up). It’s definitely a luxurious step up from the chilly trekking lodges that dot the trails in this area.

A good half-day excursion from Jomsom is to visit Marpha village.

Half-day excursions are the best type anywhere in Lower Mustang, as the afternoons can be unpleasantly windy and cold, meaning the shelter of a lodge is more comforting. After breakfast, walk south out of town and keep going, for ninety minutes. The

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While Jomsom has its nearby attractions, the town of Kagbeni deserves a bit more time. It takes about an hour to reach Kagbeni from Jomsom via private vehicle, over bumpy roads, or a trek of three-four hours. The Buddhist culture of the town that Peissel described fifty years ago is still evident today, with rows of large prayer wheels, a monastery that blows its horns at the break of dawn, and Tibetan-influenced architecture.

The newly opened Red House Lodge is an architectural treasure that is open to casual visitors as well as inhouse guests. The building dates from the 1860s, and has had many uses throughout its history, including as a nunnery. In recently being turned into

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a guesthouse, it has retained as many of its original features as possible, including the Tibetan Buddhist frescoes in what is now the yoga and meditation room, and the intricately carved beams throughout the common areas.

A highlight is the Maitreya Buddha hidden away in a dark, incense-filled room, and opened up daily at prayer times. It is the second-largest Buddha statue in Mustang.

The owners of the Red House Lodge intend to turn the property into a living museum, displaying objects integral to the culture of Kagbeni and Mustang, and already have a beautiful collection of brass implements, local fossils and rocks, and artwork. You’ll know when you’ve found the Red House Lodge, as it’s the property attractively painted with vertical ochre, grey and white stripes along an outer wall. Although this colourful feature has not always been part of this building’s design, the inspiration came from the colours used to paint chortens in the area.

Tibetan Buddhism is practiced in this area.. Photo: Bipin Dawadi.

From Kagbeni, several day-hike options are possible. Again, it’s best to do these as early in the day as you can, shortly after breakfast, to avoid the wind. The walk to Tiri takes about half an hour, from where you can take a steep path up to a monastery with great views of the Kali Gandaki, the bare rocky hills and the snow-capped Himalayan peaks in the distance. To get to Tiri, cross the bridge in Kagbeni and follow the only path north, towards the green terraced farmland in the distance. You may well have to share the path with herds of goats, but it’s not a busy trail, and the way is clear.

One of the most spectacular excursions possible from Kagbeni is up a small river valley to the east, in the direction of the Thorung La, the 5,416 metre pass that trekkers on the Annapurna Circuit must cross. The walk up the valley is mostly quite gentle, although some narrow paths and scrambles over small landslides make it adventurous.

After about ninety minutes of walking, a spectacular panorama of mountains and caves opens up.

Buddhist monks perform a morning ritual. Photo: Bipin Dawadi.

A geological feature of Tibetan lands, from Tibet itself to Ladakh in India, is the dry towers of rock that look like overgrown anthills. In the shadow of the Annapurna Himalayas sits an abandoned village surrounded by these conical hills, carved with meditation caves high up in their structures. Their history—and that of the abandoned The whitewashed buildings and narrow streets of Marpha. Photo: Elen Turner.

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Beautiful Buddhist stupas and chortens mark the trails in Lower Mustang. Photo: RMT.

village—is unclear, but it is believed that the meditation caves were used by regular villagers rather than just monks or sadhus, and that the village was abandoned due to some natural disaster.

While the landscape and archaeological curiosities are impressive enough, another highlight of hiking to this area is the abundance of Jurassic-era fossils that can be found lying around. I last excitedly hunted for fossils as a child holidaying on the south coast of England (what is known as the Jurassic Coast), but to find 200 million-year-old relics of the sea in a landlocked country, 3000 metres high, was unexpected and extraordinary.

Many trekkers visit Kagbeni on the way back from a pilgrimage to Muktinath, but I made the journey the other way around. The holy site of Muktinath, which is sacred to both Hindus and Buddhists, is located at 3710 metres, so is about a kilometre higher than Kagbeni. It’s possible to hike there and back from Kagbeni in a day, avoiding the vehicular road as much as possible, but for a quicker trip it’s easier to drive. Public buses ply the bumpy road carved into the side of the mountain, or a more comfortable private jeep can be arranged in Kagbeni.

Muktinath may be more interesting to Hindus and Buddhists than other visitors, as the temple itself is not large or architecturally spectacular. But it is a good excursion nonetheless, as it’s a busy pilgrimage site of immense cultural value.

Visitors will be offered a red tikka to the forehead in blessing. Don’t forget to check out the sacred fire that emerges naturally from the ground, as well as the animalheaded spouts spitting holy water. The temple is about a half-hour walk from the car parking area in the village of Ranipauwa, or you can hire a pony to take you up.

Lower Mustang is certainly more than just a passing-through point on the Annapurna Circuit or Upper Mustang trekking trails, as it has often been treated, and is worthy of extensive exploration in its own right. Other villages in the area that could be included in day trips are Jharkot, on the way up towards Muktinath, and the Bon town of Lupra. The region is much more accessible than it once was— certainly more so than in Michel Peissel’s day—and is an ideal Nepal destination for travellers with four days to a week to spare.

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Practicalities • Due to its altitude, Lower Mustang is much colder than the Nepali cities. So, pack appropriately.

• Because Mustang is in the rainshadow of the Himalayas, it’s actually a good place to visit during Nepal’s monsoon season.

However, flights are more frequently cancelled then.

• Flights to/from Pokhara can often be delayed and cancelled due to visibility and wind. It’s wise not to schedule important connections too close together.

• Non-Nepalis need a permit for Lower Mustang, which is around Rs 2000 if purchased in Pokhara or Kathmandu.

• For friendly, comfortable and atmospheric accommodation, stay at Om’s Home in Jomsom, and the Red House Lodge in Kagbeni.

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LOWER

MUSTANG

The World Reveals

Lower Mustang, a short flight from Pokhara, is starting to get the attention it deserves as a travel destination. Here are some quick tips for travelling to the region.

What to do?

Day 1: Fly Pokhara to Jomsom early morning.

Hike to Marpha and enjoy apple pie.

Day 2: Take a jeep or trek to Kagbeni.

Day 3: Explore Kagbeni, including hike to meditation caves and abandoned village.

Day 4: Take a jeep or trek to Muktinath, via Jarkhot.

Day 5: Trek to Jomsom, via Lubra (a rare Bon village).

Day 6: Return to Pokhara via flight.

Where to stay?

Jomsom: Om’s Home Kagbeni: Red House Eco Lodge What to pack?

• A mask or scarf to protect from dust. Lower Mustang is windy in all seasons.

• Sunscreen. The high-altitude sun is strong.

• A permit. Non-Nepalis need to procure a permit in Kathmandu or Pokhara. www.royalmt.com.np

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The legend of Red House goes a long way back...

Tharwa Chyoling Nunnery is a small private monastery owned by Red House Lodge in Kagbeni.The chapel houses a huge clay idol of Maitreya, the second largest in Mustang. It is believed that your trip will be blessed and complete if you visit this holy place.

The house is fairly large, lodging 14 bedrooms, with 10 attached bathrooms, the other 4 being standard rooms with common toilets. A beautiful Tibetan structure with a ghumba (Tibetan Shrine) of its own, storing Tibetan text books and a 5 ft tall Buddha statue enigmatically dotting the center, one can almost feel the mysterious awe mixed with divine sense of peace and solitude of its own kind! The Buddha statue is the second highest in the Mustang region with the first one being in LoManthang.

Another intriguing history of the house is that, that it was used by Khampa warriors, then fighting the Chinese, to store ration and other goods to be distributed to the other Khampas living in the nearby villages and jungles like Khesang (now Mountain War Training School) and as far as some part of Manang (Cheko, Khang brathang). General Wangdi leading the war lived in the upper room of the house in many oaccasions, who had refused to surrender to the Royal Nepal Army, was finally killed near Dolpa.

LoManthang, Mustang, Nepal

+977 4420592, +977 9851038325

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Wellness – refreshment – entertainment is our main motto.

We provide you luxurious treatments to create balance of body – mind – soul for the cheerful and energetic day followed by the Nepali dinner with traditional cultural dance.

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Metropark, Uttar Dhoka, Lazimpat, Kathmandu, Nepal | +977 014005126 / 014005127 | info@wellnessorganicclub.com | http://www.wellnessorganicclub.com/ www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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A Tibet Diary

by Elen Turner

Lhasa’s Potala Palace is a Tibetan icon. Photo: RMT.

Day 1: Arrival in Lhasa Just the name of this place—Lhasa, Tibet—evokes mystery, almost unattainable adventure. But the reality of this modern city is quite different from the romantic, medieval images of another century. The roads are wide and well-paved, neon lights and billboards line the busy commercial main road, and high-rise apartment blocks rise up all around, many still under construction.

The flight from Kathmandu was unforgettable, as the weather was perfect. The steep-sided, still-green valleys of Nepal soon gave way to the grey and white rocky peaks of the high Himalayas, and then we passed into the rain-shadow of the great mountain range. The landscape became dry, with blue and green glacial lakes dotted high between braided rivers. The scale of this vast landscape is astonishing, as the brown peaks go on for as far as it’s possible to see, unlike the Himalayas, which have a clear start and end point.

on the outskirts of Lhasa. Their thick whitewashed stone walls with colourful, frilly curtains hide dark caverns full of smoke from incense and butter lamps, and golden and bejewelled Buddhas and bodhisattvas. The Drepung Monastery was once believed to be the largest monastery in the world, housing up to 10,000 monks. Nowadays, only a fraction of this number still lives there–only around 300 monks.

Sera, like Drepung, is a great university monastery. A primary attraction of visiting Sera is to watch the young monks in their afternoon debating. As a form of study, the monks debate Buddhist philosophy in an open-air courtyard. It can get quite noisy, and the monks clap their hands if their opponent makes a mistake. The debating is open to the public, and typically happens in the mid-afternoon.

Day 3: The Potala Palace Although this icon of Tibet is a short walk from our hotel in

Day 2: Acclimatisation, and the Drukpa and Sera the centre of Lhasa, the Potala Palace could only be visited on day three in Lhasa. Why? To avoid exertion that could Monasteries Flying straight from Kathmandu’s 1400 metres to Lhasa’s 3656 metres can have quite a strain on the body if you don’t take it easy, so for the first couple of days we are sightseeing gently. The majority of people experience some kind of altitude sickness when arriving in Lhasa—nausea, headaches—so I feel fortunate to feel nothing. Still, we shouldn’t tempt fate.

Today we were driven to the Drepung and Sera Monasteries, both very important places of Tibetan Buddhist learning

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exacerbate the effects of altitude. The palace is enormous, and to get inside you must climb a couple of hundred steps.

Although the edifice is predominantly white, there are a number of yellow and red buildings, too: red for government buildings, white for religious activities, and yellow for meditation. To call it grand is an understatement. Tibetan volunteers paying religious service were out whitewashing the walls, which was a painting spectacle unlike any I’d ever seen. ‘Painting’ means throwing buckets of white paint (make from clay and sugar)

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The road leading west from Lhasa passes spectacular high-altitude lakes. Photo: Tashi Sherpa.

over the walls, with little concern for where it landed, and certainly no concern if visitors get splashed!

so we have to make sure we’re fully acclimatised to Lhasa before moving on.

Visitors are given one-hour tickets for touring the Potala Palace, so we were swiftly guided around the dark, smoky, sparkling interiors. It would be impossible to tour every room in a day anyway, even if it was permitted. But simply wandering through the medieval chambers for an hour, with their uneven floors, low ceilings, and jewel-encrusted deities that are valuable beyond imagination was awe-inspiring.

Today we visited the last of the major sites in Lhasa city, the Norbulingka Palace, or summer palace of the Dalai Lamas.

It’s a relaxed place to spend a morning. We seemed to be the only foreign travellers there. It is the largest horticultural park in Tibet, and it’s nice to wander through the sprawling grounds, with its abundance of trees, as well as visit the various palace buildings spread throughout the park. We also had fun collecting the hard-shelled walnuts fallen from trees, trying to prise them open and snacking on them along the way.

In the afternoon we visited the Jokhang Temple, the holiest temple in Lhasa, which is situated in a large square, reached by meandering through the winding streets of the old town.

The oldest parts of the building date from 652, but it was built over many centuries. Its architectural style is influenced

by Indian and Nepali styles, as well as Tibetan. Inside are many Buddhist statues and mandalas, but perhaps the most attractive feature is the view from the flat rooftop. You can look down on Barkhor Square below, where Tibetan devotees flock to the temple, and look across to the Potala Palace and the hills in the distance. Around the Jokhang Palace are lots of shops selling Tibetan souvenirs—prayer beads, prayer flags and other crafts—which are a colourful place to shop.

Day 4: Norbulingka, the Summer Palace It feels like we’ve been in Lhasa for such a long time now, but it’s necessary to stay for another day for acclimatisation.

We’re soon travelling to much higher altitudes, and won’t be spending more than one night in each of the next places,

Day 5: Drive to Gyantse A day of intense extremes and incredible landscapes.

We left Lhasa after breakfast and headed west, in our comfortable vehicle. After a couple of hours of fast road, we ascended rapidly to a pass of around 5000 metres. From the top we could look down to Yumdo Lake on the other side, and Mt Yingchikangser beyond (7312 metres). The lake is a bright turquoise-blue because of the minerals in it. We drove around the lake and towards the mountains, passing little Tibetan settlements along the way, with whitewashed houses and decorative wooden doorways and windows.

Beneath the mountain was a large glacier, with a flock of blue sheep grazing with no concern for the grand backdrop.

In the late afternoon we arrived in Gyantse, an almost totally Tibetan town, and visually very different from Lhasa. No glitzy malls or neon lights, but a unique kumbum that looked

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Traditional Tibetan houses in Gyantse’s Old Town. Photo: Elen Turner.

as if Kathmandu’s Boudhanath Stupa had been bred with a many-tiered wedding cake. Three or four layers or circular walkways scroll around the outside, with a staircase up the middle. The large monastery next door had largely been destroyed during the Cultural Revolution, so what stands there now is a reconstruction, though a good one. Near to this monastic area is Gyantse’s Old Town, a single long street full of traditional homes, with the large ruined fort presiding over it from the hill above.

Day 6: Towards the Qomolungma National Park, via Sakya While yesterday’s day of driving was all about the lakes, today we passed much more tundra and dry mountains.

The highlight of the day was stopping in Sakya, an amazing,

quiet town that was the capital of Tibet about 800 years ago, with the monastery founded in 1073. After several days of touring monasteries I thought I had seen it all, but Sakya is in another league. To get there, you turn down a side road from the highway and travel a further 25 kilometres. Unlike most other monastery buildings in Tibet it is not painted white, but a bluish-grey, with red detailing. This colour scheme is reflected in the nearby houses, too. One of the highlights is the incredible library, which houses around 80,000 Tibetan Buddhist books, from floor to ceiling. The monastery also contains some of the best-preserved Tibetan artworks in the whole region, as much of the monastery was preserved from destruction during the Cultural Revolution.

Later, as we continued on towards the Everest area, we crossed another couple of 5000 metre-plus passes. At 5200 metres the

The colossal outer walls of Sakya Monastery. Photo: Elen Turner.

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wind was bitter, and my fingers went numb just taking pictures of the thousands of prayer flags flapping furiously and sending their prayers towards the Himalayas at high speed.

for the others to arrive. An icy wind was whipping up by this point, but we still placed our scarves, signed with the names of our loved ones, with the other prayer flags.

Day 7: Rongbuk and Everest

Day 8: To Shigatse

The drive today took us over another high pass, rocky mountains and a spectacular skyline lookout point, from which we could see Everest and friends. I’ve seen the mountain from Nepal, and I must say that the view of Everest itself from the Tibet side is more impressive. In Nepal, it is tucked away somewhat behind other (enormous) mountains, and the whole scene is more amazing than any one mountain. In Tibet, it is clear that Everest is the tallest, and it almost stands alone. Today there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, and barely any wind until later in the afternoon. Perfect Everest-viewing conditions.

We rose early to make a sunrise trip to Base Camp to catch Everest in the morning light, with not a breath of wind. There was no real sunrise to speak of because of the angle of the mountains in relation to the sun, but we were the only ones there, and without the whipping wind it was a quiet scene.

Rongbuk—our stop for the night—can barely be called a town. There’s a small monastery and a stupa, spread over the hillside, and the basic lodge in which we’re staying. But the bedrooms have electric blankets (so necessary at this altitude) and unobstructed views of Everest!

In the afternoon we attempted to walk the short distance to Everest Base Camp from the end of the sealed road. I was up for the challenge, until I started walking and just couldn’t keep up with the rest of the group. I didn’t feel tired in the way that you do when you’ve been running or exercising, but I just couldn’t get enough air. My legs wanted to move faster, but my lungs couldn’t provide the energy. After about half an hour I gave up—I didn’t want to risk a headache later on— and got in the car. We drove up to Base Camp and waited

Today, to Shigatse, we backtracked along the road we had already travelled, but our driver made sure to stop at different lookout points, to give us a different perspective. We arrived in Shigatse after dark, and after the last few nights in the cold of the mountains, it was comforting to have hot showers and Nepali food again after the monotony of noodle soup!

Day 9: Return to Lhasa We took a different road back to Lhasa today, so the scenery was all new. We followed a river canyon for a while, and saw the landscape change from almost completely barren, to less so.

After arriving back in the city in the mid-afternoon there was time before our early departure tomorrow to do some last shopping, enjoy the cafes of the metropolis that Lhasa now seems to be, and catch a sunset glimpse of the Jhokang, sparkling gold, devotees prostrating themselves as they have been for centuries, and as they will continue to do for more.

Lake Yumdo. Photo: Elen Turner.

The highways, hills and mountains of Tibet. Photo: RMT.

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A monk worshipping a statue of Buddha in Tibet.

Photo: Tashi Sherpa.

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Tibet

ITINERARY Day 01: Arrival in Lhasa | Day 02: Visit Drepung, Norbulinka and Sera | Day 03: Visit Potala and Jokhang – Barkhor Day 04: Lhasa | Day 05: Yamdrok Tso – Gyantse | Day 06: Pelkor – SakyaGompa-Shegar | Day 07: Rombuk Day 08 Shigatse | Day 09: Tashilumpo | Day 10: Departure NOTE: From 2018, if the land border between Nepal and China opens, trip will end in Kathmandu by overland journey.

TRAVEL-NEPAL

P.O. Box: 8720 Lal Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: +977-1-4444376 / 78 / 79 Fax: +977-1-4444380 Email: info@royalmt.com.np URL: www.royalmt.com.np www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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Momo

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Cooking Class

LEARN ONCE COOK FOREVER Despite having a vague history of its origin, Momo has become a traditional delicacy of Nepal, over the years, since decades. Learn to cook - delicious - Momo like a typical Nepalese, but under Tibetan hospitality at the Tashiling Homestay in Pokhara, and treat yourself from this quick-learned skill forever.

Contact Us:

Royal Mountain Travel-Nepal

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PO Box 8720, Lal Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal Phone: +977-1-4444376 / 78 / 79, Fax: +977-1-4444380 Email: info@royalmt.com.np, Web: royalmt.com.np www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain Travel

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Classes and Tours

Photos: Backstreet Academy.

Nepal’s favourite snack: Momos

Make your own khukuri

Have fun making momos, this favourite of Nepal’s snacks.

Starting off by kneading the dough, preparing the ingredients to stuff into your momos, folding your momos up and finally cooking them, you will be taught the whole process.

In the countryside you will see most farmers going around with a khukuri tucked in their belt. It is used to chop firewood, cut grass, and even cut vegetables in the home.

This weapon of choice and icon of the Gurkha warriors is a symbol of pride to Nepalis all over the world.

Khukuris comes in all sizes but in this workshop, you will make a miniature version. You will cut and hammer the iron into shape. Your host will grind the blade and then you will make the wooden handle.

Make and play your own madal (Nepali Conga) The madal or Nepali conga is a typical musical instrument that is used to accompany Nepali folk songs. (The madal is played horizontally, while the conga is placed on the ground vertically).

In this workshop you will be provided with a basic wooden log already carved out to form the hollow cavity of the madal. You will have to cover this will dried goat skin to make this into a percussion instrument. You then attach leather strings and paint it with a mixture of black iron powder and glue to ‘tune’ the madal for you. As it can take a few hours to dry, you are advised to collect your madal the following day when you can be given a musical lesson before you leave.

Paint your own thangka Thangka paintings are full of symbolism and meaning.

Typically depicting images of deities, images of Buddha and mandalas, they are impressive art forms. The very process of making the Thangka also holds significance and they are used as teaching tools to depict the life of Buddha or to show some of his teachings. Buddhists often use them as a focus for meditation on the path of enlightenment.

As a thangka can take up to a month to complete, for this workshop you will be limited in what you can complete.

However, for the few hours that you have, you will be taught the fundamental stages of Thangka art.

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Classes and tours Carve your own wooden mask

Throw your own pot

Carved from a single piece of wood, these masks symbolize prosperity and good fortune. After you have drawn and designed how you want your mask to look, the master carver will be at your side to guide you step by step in the carving process.

With a long tradition of pottery, pots play an integral part of everyday life for storage, carrying water, lamps and decorative purposes. Starting from the basics, throw your own pot on a traditional potter’s wheel. When you have your pot, decorate it with typical Nepalese designs. Ensure you allow a couple of days for the pottery to dry before it can be fired and collected.

Learn about wood carving

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The Newar tradition of wood carving is evident in the beautiful wood work seen on the old buildings throughout the Kathmandu Valley and beyond. In particular fine old window decorations carved with intricate wooden designs are famous for this.

Stone carving workshop

These window decorations take time so in the short time available, why not try your hand on a more simple design to get a feel of the craft. After choosing your design, you mark it out on a block of wood. Practicing first, to learn the techniques, you have time to try at carving your own decoration.

Learn how to carve traditional Nepali patterns and understand the meaning behind them. Stone carving is not as hard as it looks and under the tuition of experienced stone carvers, you will be shown how to carve your own inscriptions on stone. You don’t even need to be strong as it’s all about care and precision, not brute force.

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Classes and tours Food Tour: what the locals like

Shopping in Kathmandu: Colour and Chaos

Try out four of the favourite snacks that Nepalese people like best. You are taken to sample samosas, momos, pani purri and lassi. Exploring the narrow and busy streets of Asaan, near to New Road, you will pass many little local temples along the way. Starting at a shop that sells samosas, you can also try aloo paratha, momos and finish off with lassi, a typical drink made with curd.

Kathmandu’s Asaan market is a kaleidoscope of colour and chaos, whether you are in the streets dedicated to selling clothes, kitchenware, jewelry or spices. The narrow alleys are like a maze, invariably with small temples every few hundred yards. However, this can be daunting to the first time visitor, or if you want to go shopping for something in particular. Depending on your interests, you will be taken on a tour based on what you want (garments and fabric, food and spices, jewelry, metal and brassware, traditional clothes like sarees, dhakas, bhotos, handicrafts like paper lanterns, wood and stone carvings).

Eat like a Gurkha Starting the day with a hearty traditional plate of dal bhat, you are shown how to make this staple Nepali dish that includes rice, dal, vegetable or meat curry dish and tomato chutney. You are then taken to a master blacksmith’s workshop where your will be shown how to make your own miniature khukuri and learn about the simple life of a Nepali blacksmith. Finally you are shown how to make momos, the popular Nepali snack. After you finish cooking and eating, you will also be given an insight into how chang and raksi, a homemade brew and liquor, are made.

The World Reveals

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INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

Grandeur

COMFORT TOUR

Nepal

BRIEF ITINERARY Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu Day 02: Sightseeing Tour - Bhaktapur City, Boudhanath and Panauti City; lunch with a local family Day 03: Sightseeing Tour – Patan Durbar Square, Golden Temple, Patan Museum & drive to Pharping Day 04: Early Morning Prayer ceremony at the monastery and drive to Kurintar Day 05: Drive from Kurintar to Chitwan followed by Village Walk and Cultural Show Day 06: Jungle Adventure in Chitwan National Park Day 07: Drive from Chitwan to Bandipur Day 08: Hike to Ramkot Day 09: Drive from Bandipur to Pokhara Day 10: Early morning Excursion to Sarankot, later boating in Phewa Lake & Hike to World Peace Pagoda Day 11: Free day in Pokhara for Individual activities Day 12: Flight to Kathmandu & later sightseeing tour Pashupatinath Day 13: Free day in Kathmandu – A day on your own Day 13: Departure

For more detail, please contact:

Royal Mountain Travel - Nepal

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P.O. Box: 8720 Lal Durbar Marg, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: +977-1-4444376 / 78 / 79 Fax: +977-1-4444380 Email:Travel info@royalmt.com.np URL: www.royalmt.com.np www.insidehimalayas.com | By Royal Mountain

INSIDE HIMALAYAS | NEPAL | TIBET | BHUTAN

The romance of bygone era...

...the delight of tasteful cuisine.

Bricks Cafe is a multi-cuisine restaurant located in Lalitpur - offering a wide range of food menu, but prominently renowned for divine Nepalese flavor, which arrives in authentic hospitality.

The building of Bricks Cafe was built during the Rana era, and that classical, intimate, warm ambience is still evident today in the attic seating, sun deck couches, rich garden, and shady porch.

Please drop by to the Bricks Cafe and comfort your taste buds. We serve every day from 12pm to 10pm.

Kupondole, Lalitpur, 5521756 The Romance Of Nepal a Bygone Era info@brickscafe.com.np

Login to www.facebook.com/Bricks.Cafe1 for more updates

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‘Nepal, Once is Not Enough.’

Trekkers gazing at the wonderful lower valley of the Khumbu region.

Photo: Tashi Sherpa.

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