olive Magazine Sample Issue

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TRY THE TART EVERYONE’S TALKING ABOUT

ROAST PORK WITH HASSELBACK POTATOES

MULLED WINE APPLE CRUMBLE

CAN $14.50 US $13.50 AUS $14.99 GBP £5.99 + NEW HEALTH AND WELLNESS TRENDS FOR 2024 + GLUTEN-FREE MIDWEEK MEALS + BRILLIANT COMFORTING BAKES + DISCOVER THE BEST CHEF’S TABLE EXPERIENCES MAKING EVERY MEAL SPECIAL + O MARCH 2024 INSTANT RAMEN PO’ BOY PRAWN SANDO, ALMOND BUNDT WITH ROASTED RHUBARB GLAZE, SMOKED SALMON AND CREAM CHEESE GALETTES, TOFFEE APPLE CROISSANT TART, KOREAN-STYLE NOODLE STEW MAKE EVERY MEAL SPECIAL MARCH 2024
TIME!
CRUNCH
PANEER, CHICKPEA AND SPINACH
CURRY
EFFORTLESS! filo crinkle custard tart

Welcome

Every now and then, a complete blow-out of a restaurant is in order – for a celebration, special occasion or simply a self-caring treat. If there’s just the two of you (or perhaps just the one), then sitting at a chef’s table where you can chat to chefs and watch the magic happen is absolutely thrilling. On page 58 you’ll find a round-up of some of our favourite venues, from the swish feel of a Park Lane hotel like the Dorchester and exemplary local produce skilfully cooked on Skye, to the quiet, almost balletic drama of Simon Rogan’s Aulis. As the feature says: entertaining, enlightening and delicious.

March is also a good month for baking, with Easter coming at the end – there’s always place for cake during a long weekend. Ren Behan’s recipes (p26) for Polish bakes include all the heavy-hitting box-tickers, from a squidgy chocolate cream sponge and a caramel and sesame crêpe cake, to a pretty almond bundt with all the spring vibes you could possibly need.

COOK THE COVER

Find the recipe on page 38

Shop-bought filo pastry makes this impressive-looking custard tart a breeze to make. Decorate with a drizzle of orange blossom honey and chopped pistachios.

Lulu Grimes, managing editor

@Omagazine @lulugrimes

This month I’m…

reading

Doma by Spasia

Having eaten many a Mystic Burek, I was beyond excited to see this book. I love everything about Spasia’s endeavours, and this book is an ode to the cuisine of north Macedonia, including burek. It won’t be the same as buying them from Spasia but I will be making them at home. Out 2 April, published by DK.

drinking

McConnell’s Irish whiskey sherry cask finish

Whiskey and sherry are both favourites, so one with a hint of the other is a double win. Soak a couple of sultanas in the whiskey for a couple of hours as a garnish and serve over a large block of ice. From £40/70cl.

coveting

Ceramics from Akub

If I wasn’t so clumsy with crockery I’d invest in some bowls and plates from Akub. Made by Nur Minawi in Jaffa, they are pleasing in both shape and look, and a pleasure to eat from. akub-restaurant.com

HOW TO CONTACT US

General enquiries: Oweb@immediate.co.uk. For subscription queries please call 03330 162 127 or visit buysubscriptions.com/contact

March 2024 Omagazine.com 3 COVER PHOTOGRAPH: KAREN THOMAS. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: JO HARRIS. FOOD STYLING: LIBBY SILBERMANN

contents MARCH

inspiration

7 What’s new for March Three must-visit restaurants, budget versus blowout spiralisers, and the best new food and drinks to try.

cook

16 Cook with the season Make the most of broccoli, rhubarb and cauliflower this month.

26 A taste of home Sweet, inspiring Polish bakes from food writer Ren Behan.

36 Easy recipes for entertaining, all requiring 30 minutes or less of prep, including a must-make toffee apple croissant tart.

40 Three ways with instant ramen Use this kitchen cupboard staple in clever new ways, from a po’ boy prawn sando to crispy noodle eggs.

44 Eat well everyday Nourishing and naturally gluten-free midweek meals.

50 Cook a classic Make this comforting prawn risotto with a rich seafood stock.

97 Best of Omagazine.com Crisp crackling, juicy meat – our five-star-rated recipe for roast pork with hasselback potatoes.

discover

54 Signature dish Learn to make Hainan chicken rice plus a plum and whisky cocktail from Malaysian street food restaurant Med Salleh.

58 Front row eats Go behind the scenes with our pick of the best chef’s tables and counter-dining experiences across Britain.

64 Love your local Cosy, historical Notting Hill pub Walmer Castle shares a recipe for mulled apple and blackberry crumble.

Scan to get more behind-thescenes Insta videos, including 360 tours, cocktail demos and kitchen inspo

66 Pro vs punter Critic KS Tong and an O reader give their verdicts on modern South American grill Solis in Battersea.

68 Need to know Gurdeep Loyal recommends contemporary eats in Munich, and shares a recipe for ricotta cannelloni with shiso pesto.

70 The Measure A three-ingredient piña colada martini, and the lowdown on London’s Dram Bar.

73 Wine 101 Stellar whites and bold reds in Kate Hawkings’ guide to Stellenbosch.

74 Cook like a local Try the classic, hearty dishes of the French Alps.

78 10 things we love about the Algarve Food and culture picks from MJMK and Casa do Frango co-founder Marco Mendes.

unwind

84 Bolthole Experience luxury touches and the best of local produce at The Bell at Charlbury.

86 Kitchen haven Baker and cookbook author Martha Collison shows us round her home kitchen on the Sussex coast.

92 Wellness The benefits of eating a rainbow of different fruits and vegetables.

94 The O podcast: 2024 health trends Trends expert April Preston shares her predictions.

& don’t miss

12 Subscribe today Get five issues for just £5.

52 Reader offer Enjoy the rich culture and cuisine on a five-night tour through stunning Slovenia.

82 Reader offer Save on beautiful garden trees.

95 Coming next month What’s in store for April.

4 March 2024 Omagazine.com 28 93

recipe index

Starters, snacks, drinks and sides

56 Asam boi sour

16 Broccoli tempura with white miso mayonnaise

73 Espresso and tonic

70 Piña colada martini

38 Smoked salmon and cream cheese galettes

Mains

Birds

75 Chicken with morels and vin jaune

55 Hainan chicken rice

Fish

20 Carrot and orange salad with saffron aïoli and scallops

42 Instant ramen po’ boy prawn sando

48 Prawn and chorizo jambalaya

50 Prawn risotto

46 Teriyaki salmon sushi bowl

Meat

40 Korean-style noodle stew

97 Roast pork with hasselback potatoes

Vegetables

49 Cheat’s Vietnamese pho with mushrooms and pak choi

43 Crispy noodle eggs

46 Easy halloumi traybake with minted yogurt and pomegranate

18 Filo tart of mixed greens and feta

93 Goat’s cheese and beetroot citrus salad

47 Paneer, chickpea and spinach curry

22 Shaved cauliflower, sultanas, preserved lemon and chilli

68 Shiso pesto and ricotta cannelloni

76 Tagliatelle with walnuts and lovage

Breakfast, brunch, baking and puddings

28 Almond bundt with roasted rhubarb glaze

31 Carrot and apple loaf with fudge drizzle

38 Crunchy filo crinkle tart

32 Katarzynki (traditional gingerbread cookies)

76 Matefaim

65 Mulled apple and blackberry crumble

24 Rhubarb sponge with orange blossom crème fraîche

36 Toffee apple croissant tart

35 Tort naleśnikowy (crêpe cake with caramel sauce and sesame snaps)

27 Wuzetka (chocolate cream sponge)

Laura Strange

March 2024 Omagazine.com 5 Easy on the eye and simple to make, thanks to shop-bought ingredients and no fiddly techniques. These recipes can be made ahead and require only 30 minutes or fewer of prep – they’re go-to ideas for entertaining special guests.
97
best Angela Clutton Make the most of March’s best fruit and veg (p16).
bringing you the
Easy, nourishing and naturally gluten-free midweek meals (p44).
Behan Nostalgic bakes inspired by Ren’s Polish heritage (p26).
Ren
PHOTOGRAPHS: ORLANDO GILI, NASSIMA ROTHACKER, KIRSTIE YOUNG

March INSPIRATION

Trendspotting

Move over burgers, this is the year of the patty melt. In America a burger comes under the category of sandwich, as does the simpler but just as cultish patty melt. The New York Times restaurant critic Pete Wells recently called the latter “superior”.

At its most simple the melt is made of bread, cheese, a burger patty and sometimes onions – we’d probably call it a toastie. Recently it’s been having a bit of a makeover in its home country and social channels are following new incarnations. Over here you can try a very updated version at Crunch in Spitalfields old market. Do not wear a white shirt. sandwichuprising.com

All you need to know this month, from restaurants on our radar, to must-buy food, drinks and homewares

March 2024 Omagazine.com 7
inspiration

PROCOOK SPIRALIZER

With a nice metal design and very grippy feet, this spiraliser was effective with all vegetables and left very little waste (£15, procook.co.uk).

BUDGET VS BLOWOUT

MAGIMIX SPIRAL EXPERT KIT ATTACHMENT

If you already have a Magimix in your kitchen, the brand’s attachment is highly efficient, with a choice of three blades for handling vegetables of different shapes (£120, magimix.co.uk).

3 MUST-VISIT RESTAURANTS make a reservation

Just opened

FLORENCIO, MARYLEBONE

Chef Diego Jacquet has opened a pizzeria near his contemporary Argentinian grill, Zoilo. Pizzas are made from a 48-hour fermented dough and finished with toppings including Buenos Aires’ popular three-cheese muzza style. Options include El Cuartito topped with chorizo, grilled peppers and jalapeños, and Martita laden with gorgonzola béchamel, courgettes and walnuts. florenciopizza.com

Revisiting

SABOR, MAYFAIR

After a refurb, Nieves Barragán and José Etura are welcoming guests to join them at La Mesa, a new sharing table where they will host events such as tasting menus with sherry pairings. Or book the table as a group and tuck into sharing dishes such as creamy seafood rice, roast goat and whole suckling pig, and tapas such as monkfish tempura and manchego croquetas. saborrestaurants.co.uk

Coming soon

CARDINAL, EDINBURGH

Chef Tomás Gormley is accumulating experience at some of the Scottish capital’s finest restaurants (Michelinstarred Heron and Skua) to launch his first solo venture. The 13-course tasting menu will showcase Scottish produce, focusing on fermentation (think ibérico pork cheek with fermented girolles and hen-ofthe-woods) and cooking on the wood-fired BBQ (such as smoked Belhaven lobster with pink fir potatoes and chives).

Buy the best, whatever your budget – this month, spiralisers 8 March 2024 Omagazine.com For more product reviews, go to Omagazine.com PHOTOGRAPH: STEPHEN LISTER

Oxford Landing is a certified member of Sustainable Winegrowing Australia

Winegrow ng A tra a

oxfordlanding com

YEP KITCHEN SICHUAN CHILLI CRISP

Drizzle this over fried eggs or cheese on toast, or use as a dip for dumplings. This super-savoury chilli crisp has a numbing tingle from the sichuan peppercorns. £6.50/150g, yepkitchen.com

MERGULO DARK SALT PLANT-BASED BUTTER

A creamy, thick plant-based butter with a salty kick made with 100% natural ingredients. A blend of coconut oil and cashew nut means it spreads, bakes and melts just like normal butter. £4.99/200g, healthysupplies.co.uk

BOLD BEAN CO QUEEN CARLIN PEAS

Carlin peas are a traditional pulse that have been grown in Britain for centuries but have sadly been forgotten. Slow-cooked and bottled, these have a nutty, creamy texture with a little bite – use in salads, stews and dips. £10/2 x 700g jars, boldbeanco.com

KITCHEN SHELF

This month’s must-buy food, drink and homewares

HOPPERS SPICE BLENDS

A range of classic spice blends to help you recreate the restaurant’s signature Sri Lankan dishes at home. The fiery Jaffna can be used as a base for curries, as well as a rub for meat and veg. £8.99/60g, selfridges.com

ISLAND BAKERY BISCUIT TINS

Made from organic ingredients on the Isle of Mull, these buttery, rich shortbreads are beautifully sweet and crunchy, and come in a pretty reusable tin for gifting. From £7.77/125g, islandbakery.scot

DAYLESFORD ORGANIC HOT AND SOUR BROTH

A nourishing hot and sour broth packed with seasonal greens, mushrooms and edamame, flavoured with miso, ginger and lemongrass. Add cooked noodles for a quick meal. £5.99/500ml, daylesford.com

10 March 2024 Omagazine.com
inspiration

RUSTLE GOURMET CRISPS

These inventively flavoured crisps earned a unanimous thumbs up during our taste test. Choose from Ugly Truffle, Sweet Pepper and Green Chilli flavours. £3.75/150g, ocado.com

ALL THINGS BUTTER

Chef Thomas Straker went viral on Instagram with his flavoured butter recipes. His organic Somerset garlic and herb or chilli butter will elevate pasta, seafood and more. From £3/125g, ocado.com

OMAKASE BLACK PEPPER AND CHILLI SNACKS

Totally addictive and crunchy, this savoury blend of spicy arare and senbei Japanese-style crackers is perfect with an ice-cold beer. £3.79/150g, souschef.co.uk

SHAGREEN MANGO WOODEN SALAD BOWL

These beautiful mango wood serving bowls with a green lacquered finish will add a touch of spring to your kitchen or dining table. From £44, clubmatters.com

BELAZU FLAVOUR HACKS

Just a spoonful from these little jars will enhance your cooking and save you time in the kitchen, too. We love the deep, aromatic roasted garlic –perfect for when you want a more subtle flavour.

£2.95/130g, belazu.com

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20% OFF WITHCODE OLSIZ #worstbbq #worstbbqcomp Enter online at thevillagebutchers.co.uk WORST BBQ COMPETITION One entry per person, competition closes 12.00pm on July the 19th 2024. Prizes include: 1 x A Weber Master-Touch BBQ, 1 x Meater+ Thermometer, £100 Meat Hamper, Assortment of Meat Rubs, full T&C’s at thevillagebutchers.co.uk/prize-draw-t-and-c

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cook

Put a spring in your step with our quick-win ramen recipes, impressive yet effortless tarts for entertaining, and ideas to make the most of March’s best produce

March 2024 Omagazine.com 15
PHOTOGRAPHS: KAREN THOMAS. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: JO HARRIS. FOOD STYLING: LIBBY SILBERMANN

Cook with the season

Make the best of March’s fruit and veg with these inspiring recipes

Broccoli tempura with white miso mayonnaise

Purple sprouting broccoli is my preferred choice of broccoli to use here. But, as I don’t want to limit tempura to spring, the year-round Calabrese broccoli is lovely, too. The batter is gorgeously light and crunchy, the perfect partner for the rich intensity of the miso mayo. Tempura is a great way to use up odds and ends of veg right through the seasons. Try doing it with slices of courgette or spring onion, spears of asparagus, cavolo nero leaves, pumpkin slithers...

SERVES 4-6 AS A SHARING PLATE, STARTER OR SIDE

PREP 10 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY | V

250g purple sprouting broccoli

150g plain flour

150g cornflour

½ tsp fine salt

1 tbsp sesame seeds (black, white or a mixture, optional)

1 litre sunflower oil

2 egg yolks

300ml sparkling spring water, chilled

MISO MAYONNAISE

2 egg yolks, at room temperature

25ml Japanese brown rice vinegar

2 tsp white miso paste

300ml rapeseed oil

In season this month

1 Make the miso mayo first. Put the egg yolks into a mixing bowl and whisk with the vinegar and miso. Season lightly, then very slowly add the rapeseed oil, whisking after each addition until thick and lustrous. Check the seasoning. Set aside in the fridge if making ahead of time but be sure to return to room temperature before serving.

2 Prepare the broccoli by trimming off any very woody ends and slicing down through the florets into the stalk to create lengths no more than 1cm wide. Any young, thin spears can be used just as they are.

3 Sift the flours and salt into a medium bowl, and add the sesame seeds, if using.

4 Heat the sunflower oil in a deep pan to 185C. Once the oil is hot enough, work quickly to beat the egg yolks and chilled sparkling water into the flour bowl. Still working fast, use a fork to dip each piece of broccoli into the batter, then transfer to the hot oil. Fry for a couple of minutes until crisped and only very lightly golden. Take care not to crowd the pan – you will need to do this in batches. Lift the fried pieces out of the oil with a slotted spoon, drain on kitchen paper to remove any excess oil, and serve straight away with the miso mayo on the side.

PER SERVING (6) 776 kcals | fat 63.1G saturates 5.7G | carbs 43.3G | sugars 1.5G fibre 3G | protein 6.6G | salt 0.7G

16 March 2024 Omagazine.com
: purple sprouting broccoli • rhubarb • oranges • cauliflower • spinach
March 2024 Omagazine.com 17
cook seasonal

Filo tart of mixed greens and feta

Fabulously bitter leafy greens (of which chard is the star here, ably supported by cavolo nero) have their edges smoothed out by baking them with cheese. The ratio of nutritious to comforting is just right. You could happily switch round the proportions of the greens here. Or swap in whatever leaves you have hanging around – spinach, kale, beetroot tops, turnip tops, collard greens – they’d all be just as lovely, just as green.

SERVES 6 | PREP 10 MINS PLUS COOLING

COOK 40 MINS | EASY | V

400g chard

200g cavolo nero

4 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, chopped

½ orange, juiced

1 tsp ground cinnamon

3 eggs

200g feta

40g leafy herbs (any mixture of dill, mint, coriander or parsley), chopped

1 tbsp honey nutmeg

1 tbsp plain flour

4 sheets of filo pastry

1 Separate the stalks and the leaves of the chard and cavolo nero. Trim and finely chop all the stalks. Wash all the leaves, drain and shred.

2 Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a deep frying pan. Gently cook the onion until just about softening, then add the chopped stalks. Season, add the orange juice and cook for 10 mins until soft. Add the cinnamon, then the shredded leaves. Cook for 5 mins to wilt, then take off the heat. Let it cool a little before spooning into a fine sieve set over a sink or bowl to drain away any excess liquid.

3 Beat the eggs in a large mixing bowl. Crumble in the cheese, then add most of the herbs, reserving a little to garnish. Mix well, adding the honey and a good grating of nutmeg. Add the drained chard mixture and combine thoroughly. Season to taste.

4 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Brush a 23cm deep springform cake tin with some of the remaining oil and dust with the flour. Lay one sheet of filo in the base, overhanging the sides. Brush it with oil, then lay another sheet of filo on top, going crossways to cover the other sides of the tin. Oil and repeat with two more sheets. Fill with the cheesy greens mixture. Bring up the overhanging pastry and scrunch to form an edge to the pie (not a lid). Bake for 25 mins until the pastry edges are golden.

5 Cool in the tin for 5 mins, then remove and serve warm or at room temperature with the reserved chopped herbs scattered over.

PER SERVING 285 kcals | fat 17.5G saturates 6.5G | carbs 18.2G | sugars 6G fibre 2.8G | protein 12.4G | salt 1.4G

18 March 2024 Omagazine.com
March 2024 Omagazine.com 19 cook seasonal

Carrot and orange salad with saffron aïoli and scallops

This carrot and orange salad turns up in my kitchen in all kinds of ways. It’s one for those times when I need something sparkier and fresher of flavour, a little crunchier of texture, and with a burst of colour, too. I have it on its own, with some steamed fish, with just a few nuts crumbled in or as a side to a pork chop. Here that favourite winter salad gets a bit fancy.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS PLUS MARINATING

COOK 5 MINS | EASY | GF

2 medium carrots, peeled

50ml white wine vinegar (I use moscatel)

25ml extra-virgin olive oil

1 tsp caster sugar

¼ tsp ground cinnamon

2 sweet or blood oranges

2 sprigs of tarragon, leaves only

SAFFRON AÏOLI

pinch of saffron

1 small garlic clove, grated

1 egg yolk

1 tsp dijon mustard

2 tsp sherry vinegar

100ml rapeseed oil

100ml extra-virgin olive oil

SCALLOPS

12 scallops

2 tbsp olive oil

1 Use a vegetable peeler to peel the carrots into ribbons. Mix together the vinegar, oil, sugar, cinnamon and a large pinch of salt in a bowl. Toss the carrot ribbons in the dressing and set aside for 2 hrs or in the fridge for up to 24 hrs.

2 To make the aïoli, soak the saffron in 1½ tsp of warm water in a small cup. Put the garlic, yolk, mustard, vinegar and a pinch of salt into a mixing bowl. Whisk in the oils, slowly at first. Once all the oil has been incorporated, season and whisk in the saffron and its water.

3 Prepare the oranges by cutting off their tops and bottoms so they stand flat, then cutting away the peel and white pith. Now cut close to the membranes between the segments to release them. Add the orange segments to the carrots, along with any juice. Divide the salad between plates. Chop the tarragon leaves and scatter over.

4 Dry the scallops on kitchen paper. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan over a medium heat. Sit the scallops in the hot oil, let them cook for a couple of minutes then turn them over and cook for a few minutes more – they are ready when browned on the outside with the flesh turning opaque.

5 Lift the scallops on top of the salad, spooning over any oil left behind in the pan. Finish with freshly ground black pepper and serve with the aïoli alongside.

PER SERVING 617 kcals | fat 59.7G saturates 7G | carbs 9.9G | sugars 8.9G fibre 2.4G | protein 8.9G | salt 0.7G

20 March 2024 Omagazine.com
March 2024 Omagazine.com 21 cook seasonal

Shaved cauliflower, sultanas, preserved lemon and chilli

I love this most as a winter salad but in truth it’s just as good when made with any cauliflower you find across the year. It has it all: crunch from the cauliflower, sweetness from the sultanas, salty zestiness from the preserved lemons and heat from the chilli. The key is to make it ahead of time so the flavours can get acquainted and the yogurt/oil mixture can slightly relax the raw cauliflower.

SERVES 6 AS A SIDE OR 4 AS A MAIN | PREP 10 MINS PLUS MARINATING | COOK 5 MINS | EASY | V GF

100g sultanas

1½ tbsp sherry vinegar

¼ tsp ground cinnamon

800g cauliflower, with its leaves 225g full-fat greek yogurt

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

½ red chilli, finely chopped

3 preserved lemons, finely chopped

40g flaked almonds

small bunch of mint, chopped, tough stalks discarded

1 Put the sultanas into a shallow bowl with the vinegar and cinnamon, and mix – as you prepare the cauliflower, remember to give these an occasional stir.

2 Pull off the large outer leaves of the cauliflower. Trim away and discard the base, then pull away and keep the small, delicate inner leaves. Cut off the florets and cut them into thin 3mm slices. Put into a large mixing bowl or serving dish along with any other bits of cauliflower that have come away as you cut. Add the leaves, then spoon over the yogurt and 2 tbsp of the olive oil. Lightly season and mix well.

3 Add the sultanas and any of the cinnamon or sherry left behind in the bowl. Add the chilli and lemons, and mix well. Set aside for at least 2 hrs or in the fridge up to 24 hrs.

4 To serve, bring the cauliflower back to room temperature if it has been in the fridge. Toss well and transfer to serving plates. Toast the flaked almonds in a dry frying pan over a medium heat until just becoming golden. Scatter them over the salad, then scatter over the mint, too. Pour over the remaining olive oil and serve.

PER SERVING (6) 237 kcals | fat 15.3G saturates 3.9G | carbs 17.6G | sugars 14.9G fibre 1.8G | protein 6.3G | salt 0.1G

22 March 2024 Omagazine.com
March 2024 Omagazine.com 23 cook seasonal

Rhubarb

sponge with orange blossom crème fraîche

This is one of my favourite easy, cosy and comforting desserts. Imagine a Sunday afternoon curled up on the sofa with a bowl of rhubarb sponge and an old film. That’s the general vibe. It is simply light sponge atop rhubarb, whose tartness has had its edge taken off with thyme and honey. It is gorgeous with cream, custard, ice cream and I think especially with crème fraîche that has some orange blossom water run through to create another gentle flavour partnership with the rhubarb. With thanks to Margaret Costa, whose recipe in her 1970s Four Seasons Cookery Book was the starting point for this.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 40 MINS | EASY | V

110g butter, room temperature, plus extra for the dish

450g trimmed rhubarb

2 thyme sprigs, leaves picked

1½ tsp moscatel vinegar

3 tbsp honey

110g caster sugar

2 eggs

1 tbsp milk

170g plain flour

1 tbsp orange blossom water

500ml crème fraîche

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Butter a 1 litre baking dish.

2 Cut the rhubarb into 3cm lengths, put into the dish and scatter over the thyme leaves. Pour over the vinegar and honey.

3 Use the back of a wooden spoon or an electric beater to cream together the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Beat in the eggs and milk, then fold in the flour. Spoon the mixture over the rhubarb and bake for 40 mins until the sponge is risen and beautifully golden.

4 Mix the orange blossom water into the crème fraîche and serve alongside the sponge, which is best served hot from the oven or reheated in a microwave.

PER SERVING 1,066 kcals | fat 77.9G

saturates 50.5G | carbs 77.5G | sugars 44.6G fibre 3.9G | protein 11.7G | salt 0.7G

Recipes extracted from Seasoning: How to Cook and Celebrate the Seasons by Angela Clutton (£30, Murdoch Books).

Photographs: Patricia Niven. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

24 March 2024 Omagazine.com
March 2024 Omagazine.com 25 cook seasonal

Ataste ofhome

Food writer Ren Behan shines a spotlight on sweet and nostalgic Polish bakes with her inspiring recipes

Recipes REN BEHAN Photographs NASSIMA ROTHACKER

26 March 2024 Omagazine.com

cook entertaining bakes

Wuzetka (chocolate cream sponge)

The wuzetka cake originates from Warsaw – it was said to have first been made in a bakery along a road named the W-Z route, shortly after the Second World War (the road connected the eastern parts of the city to the western, the Wschód-Zachód areas, hence ‘W-Z’). It is a classic chocolate sponge cake baked in a square tin, filled with cream (the line in the middle of the road) and topped with a cherry. If you are baking this for adults or a grown-up party, use cherry vodka to soak the sponges.

SERVES 9 | PREP 40 MINS PLUS COOLING COOK 40 MINS | MORE EFFORT

120ml vegetable or light olive oil, plus extra for the tin

200g soft light brown sugar

2 eggs

1 tsp vanilla extract

240g soured cream

200g self-raising flour

75g cocoa powder

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

240ml freshly brewed, hot black tea

50ml cherry vodka (wiśniówka) or fruit tea

250g cherry or plum jam (optional)

CREAM FILLING

250g mascarpone, at room temperature

800ml double cream

3 tbsp icing sugar

CHOCOLATE GLAZE

2 tbsp unsalted butter

100g dark chocolate, roughly chopped

100g icing sugar

1 tbsp honey

TO SERVE whipped cream

fresh or canned pitted cherries, drained if canned

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Butter two 20cm x 20cm baking tins and line with baking paper. Beat together the oil and sugar in a stand mixer until it starts to thicken. Add the eggs, one by one, and the vanilla. Stir in the soured cream, then sift in the flour, cocoa, baking powder and bicarb, and stir until there are no lumps. Pour in the hot tea and thoroughly mix again.

2 Evenly divide the batter between the tins and tap them gently on a worksurface. Bake for 30-35 mins or until a skewer inserted into the middles comes out clean. Leave to cool slightly in the tins, then carefully turn out onto a wire rack to cool completely.

3 To assemble, put one sponge in the bottom of a tin lined with baking paper and liberally brush over the vodka or fruit tea. Spread over the jam in an even layer, if using. For the cream filling, whisk the mascarpone, then add the cream and icing sugar, and whisk until the mixture is firm. Spread the cream mixture over the base and flatten slightly into an even layer using a spatula. Put the second sponge on top and put the tin in the fridge to chill, ideally overnight.

4 When ready to serve, make the glaze by melting the ingredients with 2 tbsp of boiling water in a non-stick pan over a medium heat until thick and glossy, then leave to cool slightly.

5 Remove the cake from the fridge and carefully remove to a serving plate. Pour the glaze over the top and smooth out using a spatula or palette knife. Cut the cake into squares and serve with some piped whipped cream and cherries on top.

PER SERVING 1,114 kcals | fat 88.5G saturates 47.7G | carbs 64.9G | sugars 45.7G fibre 3.4G | protein 9.9G | salt 0.9G

March 2024 Omagazine.com 27

Almond

bundt with roasted rhubarb glaze

This is a crumbly, buttery bundt cake with a hint of almond. I usually make a roasted rhubarb glaze but, if you are making this later in the year, you can roast some plums and make a glaze in the same way. Decorate with dried cornflowers, primroses or lavender. You can even use the left-over syrup to make a rhubarb or plum martini. Left-over fruit can be eaten as a compote or over yogurt for breakfast.

SERVES 8 | PREP 40 MINS PLUS COOLING COOK 1 HR | EASY

vegetable oil, for the tin

1 tbsp fresh white breadcrumbs or plain flour

175g unsalted butter, at room temperature

140g caster sugar

3 eggs

1 lemon, zested

2 tsp honey

1 tsp almond extract

100g self-raising flour

40g potato flour or cornflour

100g ground almonds

edible fresh flowers, to decorate

RHUBARB GLAZE

500g fresh rhubarb or stoned plums

100g caster sugar

50g icing sugar

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Line a large roasting pan with baking paper. For the glaze, wash the rhubarb and cut it into small

pieces on the diagonal. Tip into the pan, sprinkle over the caster sugar and 2 tbsp of water, cover and bake for 15 mins. When ready, the rhubarb should have released lots of juices and there should be some syrup in the bottom of the pan. If it needs a little longer, drizzle over 1 tbsp of water and roast for a further 10 mins. Set aside to cool.

2 Brush the inside of a 2.4-litre bundt tin with a little oil, then dust with the breadcrumbs or plain flour. Reduce the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3.

3 Beat together the butter and sugar until fluffy. Add the eggs, one by one, then add the lemon zest, honey and almond extract, and mix again. Add the self-raising flour, potato flour or cornflour and almonds, and mix gently until just combined.

4 Spoon the batter into the tin and bake for 40-45 mins or until a skewer inserted into the middle comes out clean. It should be firm to the touch and a golden brown colour all over. Leave to cool completely in the tin before carefully turning out onto a serving plate.

5 To make the glaze, drain the syrup from the roasted rhubarb pieces and mix it with the icing sugar. Pour this over the bundt. Decorate with a few pieces of the roasted rhubarb and some edible flowers before serving.

PER SERVING 503 kcals | fat 27.4G saturates 12.5G | carbs 54.4G | sugars 39.1G fibre 2.2G | protein 8.2G | salt 0.6G

28 March 2024 Omagazine.com
March 2024 Omagazine.com 29 cook entertaining bakes
30 March 2024 Omagazine.com

Carrot and apple loaf cake with fudge drizzle

In Poland, carrot cake is called ciasto marchewkowe, and it makes sense in a country where lots of people traditionally had a vegetable garden, or działka. Apples are found in abundance, too, and this cake with grated apples is a firm favourite in our house. The fudge drizzle, or polewa krowkowa, can be made with Polish cream fudge called krowki (which means ‘little cows’) or any soft toffee or fudge sweets. At a push, simply warm a little caramel sauce from a jar.

SERVES 8 | PREP 25 MINS PLUS COOLING COOK 1 HR 10 MINS | EASY

175g unsalted butter, at room temperature, plus extra for the tin

175g soft light brown sugar

2 eggs

250g self-raising flour

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp baking powder

2 carrots, peeled and grated

2 small eating apples, peeled, cored and grated

1 tbsp soured cream or natural yogurt

FUDGE DRIZZLE

15 fudge sweets (such as krówki) or any soft toffee or fudge sweets

100ml milk

1 Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4. Butter a 1kg loaf tin and line with baking paper. Beat together the butter and sugar in a food processor or stand mixer until pale and creamy. Add the eggs, one by one, then sift in the flour, cinnamon and baking powder, and stir until the flour is fully incorporated. Stir in the grated carrots and apples, along with the soured cream or yogurt, but don’t overmix.

2 Pour the mixture into the lined tin and bake on the middle shelf of the oven for 50 mins. Remove and cover with foil, then bake for 10 mins more or until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean. Leave to cool in the tin, before turning out onto a wire rack or plate.

3 For the fudge drizzle, gently heat the fudge sweets with the milk in a small pan, stirring until the fudge melts into a thick sauce. Leave to cool slightly before drizzling the sauce over the loaf cake, then serve.

PER SERVING 469 kcals | fat 23.2G saturates 13.8G | carbs 58.1G | sugars 30.9G fibre 2.4G | protein 5.9G | salt 1G

March 2024 Omagazine.com 31
cook entertaining bakes

Katarzynki (traditional gingerbread cookies)

To make katarzynki to their traditional shape, you’ll need a cookie cutter called a foremka do ciasta katarzynka but you could also make rectangular or heart-shaped cookies. It is said that the Polish katarzynka originated in Toruń, a medieval town known as the birthplace of Nicolaus Copernicus, and famous for artisan gingerbread. The original recipe, which dates back to 1380, is a closely guarded secret but it contained honey, flour (a rye and wheat blend) and spices.

MAKES 20 | PREP 25 MINS PLUS CHILLING, COOLING AND 2 WEEKS MATURING COOK 30 MINS | EASY

200g honey

100g soft dark brown sugar

100g unsalted butter, at room temperature

100g white rye flour

300g plain flour, plus extra for dusting

1 tsp baking powder

1 tsp bicarbonate of soda

2 tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp ground cloves

1 tsp ground allspice

2 tsp cocoa powder

2 egg yolks

400g dark chocolate, melted

1 Put the honey, sugar and butter in a small pan, whisk and heat gently until melted. Set aside.

2 Combine the dry ingredients in a large bowl, along with the egg yolks. Mix together, then pour in the melted butter mixture. Keep mixing until a dough forms. Cover and chill for 1 hr. Heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and line a baking sheet with baking paper.

3 Sprinkle a board with a little flour and roll out the dough (it’s easier if you roll it out between two sheets of baking paper). Using a cookie cutter, cut into shapes and arrange carefully on the lined baking sheet, leaving at least 1cm between each cookie.

4 Bake for 20 mins, in batches if needed, until the cookies are light golden on top. They will puff up slightly and harden. They need to soften a little, so cool completely on a wire rack, then transfer to an airtight tin to mature for two weeks before coating with chocolate.

5 To coat, put the cookies on a wire rack and spoon over the melted chocolate. Once dry and set, store them in a tin.

PER SERVING 282 kcals | fat 13.6G

saturates 7.8G | carbs 34.3G | sugars 17.1G fibre 3.7G | protein 3.9G | salt 0.3G

32 March 2024 Omagazine.com
March 2024 Omagazine.com 33
cook entertaining bakes
34 March 2024 Omagazine.com

cook entertaining bakes

Tort naleśnikowy (crêpe cake with caramel sauce and sesame snaps)

This is a great alternative to baking a cake for a special occasion, especially as the pancakes can be made in advance and warmed up just before serving. The filling is inspired by the sesame snaps of my childhood, another Polish snack or treat called sezamki. These are sesame snap biscuits, which are widely available.

SERVES 12 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS CHILLING AND COOLING | COOK 30 MINS | EASY

24 naleśniki pancakes (see below)

600g jar of caramel sauce

4 x 30g packs of sesame snap biscuits

NALEŚNIKI PANCAKES

250g plain flour

4 eggs

500ml milk

80g unsalted butter, melted 2 tsp vanilla bean paste drizzle of oil

CREAM FILLING

500g mascarpone

300ml double cream

3 tbsp honey

1 tsp vanilla bean paste

1 First, make the pancakes by whisking together the flour, eggs, milk, butter, vanilla and a pinch of salt in a jug until smooth. Chill for 30 mins. Heat a shallow frying pan over a medium heat. Drizzle in a little oil, then wipe away any excess using

kitchen paper. Pour in a ladleful of the batter, swirl it round and cook for 2-3 mins. Flip and cook for 2 mins more, then put on a plate. Brush the pan with a little more oil and repeat to make 24 pancakes total. Stack them on the plate and cover with foil to keep warm. (You can reheat in a 180C/160C fan/gas 4 oven for 10 mins.)

2 Warm the caramel sauce in a small pan over a low heat. For the cream filling, mix together the mascarpone, cream, honey and vanilla until combined. You can make all of this in advance, but make sure the caramel is warm and the mascarpone mixture is at room temperature before assembling.

3 Crumble, bash or blitz (in a food processor) three of the sesame snap biscuit packs, reserving the fourth for decorating the top layer.

4 To assemble the cake, put one pancake on a serving plate, evenly spread over 2-3 tbsp of the cream filling, put another pancake on top, spread over 2-3 tbsp of caramel sauce and sprinkle over some of the crushed sesame snaps. Keep alternating layers like this until you have used up all the pancakes.

5 Decorate the top with the remaining cream filling, a drizzle of caramel sauce, the fourth pack of sesame snap biscuits, broken into shards or pieces, and any remaining crumbs.

PER SERVING 834 kcals | fat 61.6G saturates 37G | carbs 59.6G | sugars 42G fibre 0.8G | protein 9.9G | salt 1.4G

Recipes extracted from The Sweet Polish Kitchen: 80 Recipes for Celebratory Cakes, Home Bakes and Nostalgic Treats by Ren Behan (Pavilion Books). Photographs: Nassima Rothacker. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

March 2024 Omagazine.com 35
Using shop-bought ingredients and with no fiddly techniques, these recipes are easy on the eye and simple to make. They can be made ahead, or require 30 minutes or less of prep – ideal for entertaining

Toffee apple croissant tart

Croissant dough makes a brilliant stand-in for pastry in this free-form tart. The caramel sauce melds with the juicy apple to make a luscious filling.

SERVES 8 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 30 MINS | EASY

pack of ready-to-bake croissant dough

5 tbsp caramel sauce, plus extra for drizzling

3 medium or 2 large Bramley apples, peeled and sliced

3 tbsp demerara sugar

2 tbsp toasted flaked almonds cream or custard, to serve

1 Heat the oven to 190C/170C fan/gas 5. Unroll the dough and separate into six triangles along the perforations. Cut each triangle into two smaller triangles. Use the triangles to line a non-stick 28cm tart tin, starting with the sides, leaving some of the points overhanging the tin. Make sure you slightly overlap each piece of dough and press together so no gaps are left. Spread the caramel sauce on the base. Toss the apple slices with the sugar then spread over the base. Fold the overhanging pieces back onto the tart.

2 Bake for 30 mins until puffed up and golden. Leave to cool to room temperature – this is important as the apples will produce liquid on cooking and mix with the caramel. The filling will look quite runny when you take it out but will set on cooling.

3 To serve, drizzle over a little more caramel sauce (heat it gently if you need to help it drizzle). Scatter with toasted flaked almonds and serve with cream or custard.

PER SERVING 273 kcals | fat 13.7G

saturates 7.6G | carbs 32.8G | sugars 19.4G fibre 1.1G | protein 4G | salt 0.8G

36 March 2024 Omagazine.com
March 2024 Omagazine.com 37 cook effortless

cover recipe

Crunchy filo crinkle tart

Pleats of filo pastry have been popping up all over social media and we think it’s a trend worth getting on board with. The pleated filo creates a crisp and crunchy topping for this easy but impressive custard tart.

SERVES 9-12 | PREP 20 MINS

COOK 50 MINS | EASY

400g filo pastry (8-10 sheets)

200g unsalted butter, melted 250ml whole milk

2 eggs

100g golden caster sugar

½ tsp vanilla extract

½ tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp orange zest, plus extra to finish 2 tbsp orange blossom honey or other floral honey, for drizzling 1 tbsp chopped pistachios

1 Unroll the filo and keep the sheets you aren’t working with under a clean, damp tea towel. Use some of the butter to brush a 24cm x 30cm baking tray or dish. Heat the oven to 190C/ 170C fan/gas 5.

Smoked salmon and cream cheese galettes

Serve as a starter or light lunch with some salad leaves.

SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS PLUS CHILLING COOK 30 MINS | EASY

350g puff pastry

1 egg yolk, beaten with a splash of milk or water

1 tsp mixed seeds, such as poppy and sesame

4 tbsp soft cheese

2 tbsp soured cream

2 tsp baby capers

1 lemon, zested to make 1 tsp and juiced to make 2 tbsp

1 tbsp chopped chives

1 tbsp chopped dill, plus extra to serve 100g smoked salmon, cut into pieces dressed salad leaves and lemon wedges, to serve

1 Unroll the pastry and cut out four 13cm diameter circles using small plates or bowls as a guide. Freeze the left-over pastry to use in another recipe.

2 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Put the circles on a large non-stick baking sheet. Chill for 10 mins then use a small knife to score a border 2cm in from the edge. Glaze the border with the beaten egg yolk, then sprinkle it with seeds. Bake for 25-30 mins or until puffed up, golden and cooked through. Gently push down the centre circles of the galettes to create a cavity. Leave to cool.

3 Mix the cheese, soured cream, capers, lemon zest and juice, and chopped herbs, and season well. Divide the mixture between the pastry cases then carefully spread out. Arrange the salmon on top and scatter over extra dill fronds. Serve with salad and lemon wedges on the side.

PER SERVING 318 kcals | fat 22.7G

saturates 10.7G | carbs 17.1G | sugars 1.8G

2 Lay two sheets of filo on top of each other, then gather them together from the shorter end and scrunch until you have a ruffled strip, like an accordion. Lay in the baking tray – don’t worry about it fitting perfectly. If it’s too long, just bend it and let it create nice waves. Repeat with the rest of the filo until the tray is full. Bake in the oven for 10 mins.

3 Remove the tray and spoon over the melted butter. Put back in the oven for another 10 mins until light golden.

4 Whisk the milk, eggs, sugar, vanilla, cinnamon and orange zest until well combined. Take out the filo and evenly pour over the custard. Put back in the oven and bake for another 30 mins until very deep golden and crisp.

5 Drizzle with honey, scatter over the pistachios and grate over a little more orange zest. Leave until just warm to let the filling set. Cut into nine or 12 squares to serve. This is best eaten on the day you make it.

PER SERVING (12) 302 kcals | fat 17G saturates 9.6G | carbs 31.3G | sugars 13.2G fibre 1.4G | protein 5.2G | salt 0.4G

fibre 1.6G | protein 10.7G | salt 1.4G

PHOTOGRAPHS: KAREN THOMAS. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLING: JO HARRIS. FOOD STYLING: LIBBY SILBERMANN 38 March 2024 Omagazine.com
March 2024 Omagazine.com 39 cook effortless

INSTANT RAMEN

Just a little creativity and a few fresh ingredients turn this speedy staple meal into something special to look forward to

1Korean-style noodle stew

This is based on budae jjigae, a spicy and savoury Korean stew. It includes Spam, which is a traditional addition, but you could also use frankfurter hotdogs. If you have happen to have any tteokbokki rice cakes, they would work well in this dish. You could also layer on some slices of American cheese, if you like.

SERVES 2-3 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 20 MINS | EASY

340g tin of Spam, cut into thick slices

200g Enoki mushrooms

150g Shimeji mushrooms, sliced 75g kimchi

125g pak choi

2 spring onions, sliced

SAUCE

2 tbsp gochujang (Korean chilli paste)

1 tsp gochugaru (Korean chilli flakes)

90g pack of instant ramen (we used tom yum flavour)

1 tbsp soy sauce

2 garlic cloves, grated

½ tbsp brown sugar

500ml chicken stock, warmed

1 Whisk together the gochujang, gochugaru, ramen flavour packets, soy sauce, garlic and sugar in a medium bowl. Whisk in the stock until fully combined.

2 Arrange the Spam, mushrooms, kimchi, pak choi and noodles in a circle in a casserole dish. Pour over the sauce and bring to a boil. Put on the lid and reduce to a simmer. Cook for 15 mins, then remove the lid and stir.

3 Cook for an additional 3 mins until everything is tender and cooked through. Sprinkle with spring onions and serve straight from the pan.

PER SERVING (3) 621 kcals | fat 41.4G saturates 15.8G | carbs 34.2G | sugars 10.8G fibre 4.9G | protein 25.4G | salt 8.3G

40 March 2024 Omagazine.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: KAREN THOMAS. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: JO HARRIS. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY SILBERMANN

cook 3 ways with

March 2024 Omagazine.com 41

2

Instant ramen po’ boy prawn sando

This sandwich takes inspiration from the katsu sandos of Japan and the Louisiana po’ boy. The prawns make an amazing nibble or canapé on their own, if you don’t fancy a sandwich.

SERVES 2 | PREP 15 MINS

COOK 20 MINS | EASY

¼ red cabbage, finely shredded 1 lime, zested and juiced 45g Kewpie mayonnaise vegetable oil, for deep-frying 90g pack of instant ramen (we used tom yum flavour) 50g plain flour

1 egg, beaten 165g raw prawns

4 thick slices of milk bread

1 Scrunch together the cabbage with the lime zest and juice, and a small pinch of salt. Fold through the mayo and set aside in the fridge for later.

2 Fill a pan no more than two-thirds full with oil. Heat the oil to 180C or until a cube of bread browns in 30 seconds. Remove the noodles from the pack and smash them in a bowl with the end of a rolling pin until well broken up but not to dust.

3 Meanwhile, tip the flour with some salt and pepper into a shallow bowl and whisk to combine. If there is one, squeeze the sachet of paste from the ramen pack into a bowl, then add the egg and whisk.

4 Coat the prawns in flour, then the egg, then shake them in the bowl of crushed ramen noodles, then onto a plate – you may need to do this in batches.

5 Carefully lower the prawns into the oil and fry for 2-3 mins or until golden and cooked through. Transfer to a wire rack to cool slightly, then put in a bowl with the dried ramen seasoning, tossing to coat.

6 Layer a slice of the bread with half of the slaw, then half the prawns. Sandwich with the other slice then cut in half. Repeat with the remaining bread and fillings.

PER SERVING 845 kcals | fat 35.9G saturates 9.8G | carbs 98.3G | sugars 8.6G fibre 5.6G | protein 29.4G | salt 3.7G

42 March 2024 Omagazine.com

cook 3 ways with

3

Crispy noodle eggs

This makes a great breakfast if you fancy something filling.

SERVES 1 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY

55g pack of instant ramen (we used chicken flavour)

2½ tbsp vegetable oil

2 eggs

2 spring onions, sliced

5g coriander, roughly chopped crispy chilli oil, to serve

1 Boil the noodles in plenty of salted water, reserving the seasoning packs. Once tender, drain thoroughly. Transfer the noodles to a bowl and mix with all the seasoning packs.

2 Heat the oil in a medium, non-stick, lidded frying pan. Once hot, gently lower the noodles into the oil, flattening them out with a spatula. Cook for 4-5 mins on a lowmedium heat or until crisp on the bottom, then flip and cook on the other side until crisp.

3 Crack the eggs on top of the noodles and put a lid on. Cook for 3-4 mins or until the eggs are fully cooked but still have a runny yolk. Lift carefully onto a serving plate with a spatula or fish slice, allowing the cooking oil to drip off.

4 Sprinkle over the spring onions, coriander and chilli oil before serving.

PER SERVING 609 kcals | fat 46.4G saturates 9.5G | carbs 29.4G | sugars 3.1G fibre 0.5G | protein 18.1G | salt 3.3G

March 2024 Omagazine.com 43
Easy, speedy, nourishing midweek meals, all naturally gluten-free
LAURA STRANGE
Eat well every day
Recipes
p46) 44 March 2024 Omagazine.com
Teriyaki
salmon sushi bowl (recipe on
March 2024 Omagazine.com 45 cook everyday
Easy halloumi traybake with minted yogurt and pomegranate (recipe on p46)

Teriyaki salmon sushi bowl

Created during the first lockdown, as my easy homemade alternative to sushi rolls, this dish became an online sensation on my Instagram feed @myglutenfreeguide and has since been made and enjoyed by thousands of people. I hope you love it, too.

SERVES 2 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 15 MINS | EASY | GF

180g sushi rice

3 tbsp rice wine vinegar

1 tsp caster sugar

1/2 tsp fine salt

2 tbsp sesame seeds

2 salmon fillets

2 tbsp maple syrup

1 tsp sesame oil

2 tsp gluten-free tamari, plus extra to serve (optional)

1/2 tsp garlic granules or 1 garlic clove, minced

1 tsp mirin

150g edamame beans

1 ripe avocado, sliced

4 spring onions, sliced into small chunks

1 Cook the rice according to the pack instructions. Meanwhile, mix together the vinegar, sugar and salt in a small dish, stirring well until the sugar and salt have dissolved. When the rice is cooked, pour the dressing over the top of the hot rice, then stir to coat.

2 Lightly toast the sesame seeds in a small, dry frying pan over a medium heat for 2-3 mins. Sprinkle them over the rice and stir through. Set aside the rice (still in the pan, with the lid off) to cool slightly.

3 Remove the skin from the salmon and chop the flesh into chunks. Mix together the maple syrup, sesame oil, tamari, garlic and mirin in a small dish.

4 Divide the rice between two wide bowls so that two-thirds of each base is covered. In the remaining third, pile the edamame beans and sliced avocado.

5 Pour the sauce into a small frying pan over a high heat. When it begins to bubble, reduce the heat to a simmer and stir constantly for 5 mins until it has thickened, turning from watery sauce to a glaze.

6 Add the salmon chunks to the pan and increase the heat to high. Stir so that the salmon is fully coated in the glaze, then sprinkle the spring onions over the top. Cook over a high heat for a couple of minutes, stirring occasionally, until the salmon is beautifully glazed.

7 Remove from the pan and scoop the teriyaki salmon and spring onions onto the sushi bowls. Serve with extra tamari on the side, if you like.

PER SERVING 912 kcals | fat 38.9G

saturates 7.4G | carbs 95.1G | sugars 19.8G fibre 8.5G | protein 41.1G | salt 2.1G

Easy halloumi traybake with minted yogurt and pomegranate

This is one of those easy dinners where you bung things on a tray in the oven and it magically transforms into an impressively great meal. The minted yogurt really brings the final plateful together, so I urge you not to skip that. You can vary the vegetables, as well as the quantity of each item. I always keep a base of potatoes, peppers, beetroots, tomatoes and red onions but I often change it up and throw in other bits – courgettes, aubergines, sweet potato, cauliflower and kale (for the final 10 minutes) all work wonderfully.

SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 1 HR | EASY | GF

750g new potatoes

3 red, orange or yellow peppers, cut into chunks

3 medium red onions, cut into eighths

3 cooked beetroots, cut into chunks

2 tsp paprika

3 tsp dried mixed herbs

2 tsp ground turmeric

2 tbsp olive oil

2 tbsp balsamic vinegar

150g cherry or baby plum tomatoes

440g halloumi, torn into small pieces

60g pine nuts or pumpkin seeds

1 pomegranate, seeds extracted basil leaves, to serve (optional)

MINTED YOGURT DRESSING

1 tsp dried mint

100g greek yogurt

1 garlic clove, minced

1 tbsp lemon juice

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6 and line one large or two medium baking trays (to avoid overcrowding) with a silicone mat or baking paper.

2 Put the potatoes, peppers, onions and beetroots on the tray, and sprinkle with the paprika, herbs and turmeric, and season with salt and pepper. Drizzle with the olive oil and give the vegetables a good mix around. Roast for 45 mins, stirring well midway through cooking.

3 Remove the tray from the oven, drizzle the vinegar over the vegetables and add the tomatoes and halloumi. Roast for another 10 mins.

4 Sprinkle the pine nuts over the traybake, increase the oven to 220C/ 200C fan/gas 7 and cook for 5 mins while you make the dressing.

5 Put the mint, yogurt, garlic and lemon juice in a small bowl and stir until well combined.

6 Remove the traybake from the oven – the halloumi should be nicely browned on the edges and the vegetables soft. Serve in large bowls, drizzling the dressing over the vegetables, then sprinkle with pomegranate seeds to finish. Add a few torn basil leaves, if you like.

PER SERVING 805 kcals | fat 45.6G saturates 21.7G | carbs 55.3G | sugars 25G fibre 12.2G | protein 37.3G | salt 3.5G

46 March 2024 Omagazine.com

Paneer, chickpea and spinach curry

This veggie curry is a brilliant alternative to your usual takeaway. It is aromatic, lightly spiced and packed with flavour.

SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 45 MINS EASY | GF

200g paneer, cut into 2cm square pieces

3 tbsp vegetable oil

2 brown onions, diced

4 garlic cloves, crushed

5g ginger, peeled and grated

3 tsp garam masala

2 tsp ground cumin

1 tsp ground turmeric

1 tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp caster or granulated sugar

1 red chilli, roughly chopped (remove the seeds if you don’t like too much heat)

250g passata

2 x 400g tins of chickpeas

400ml coconut milk

200g frozen spinach, defrosted basmati rice and gluten-free naan, or onion bhajis to serve

1 Fry the paneer in a large, lidded, high-sided frying pan with 1 tbsp of the oil over a medium heat for 3-4 mins, or until it has taken on a little colour. Transfer to a plate with a slotted spoon and set aside.

2 Add the onions to the pan with another tbsp of oil, then reduce the heat to low-medium and cook for 5 mins until soft and translucent.

3 Transfer the onions to a small blender or mini chopper, add the garlic, ginger, spices, sugar and chilli, and blitz until it forms a smooth paste – you may need to add 1-2 tbsp of water to help it come together.

4 Add the paste to the pan with the remaining 1 tbsp of oil and cook over a low heat for 5 mins, then add the passata and cook for a further 5 mins.

5 Tip in the chickpeas and coconut milk. Cover with a lid, bring to the boil then

turn down the heat and simmer over a low heat for 20 mins.

6 Add the spinach, paneer and 1 tsp of salt, and cook, uncovered, for 10 mins. Serve with rice and naan, or onion bhajis.

PER SERVING 640 kcals | fat 42.3G | saturates 23.4G carbs 32.7G | sugars 10.8G | fibre 11.2G protein 26.6G | salt 1.29G

March 2024 Omagazine.com 47 cook
everyday

Prawn and chorizo jambalaya

This is a simplified version of jambalaya you can easily whip up at home. Absolutely gorgeous flavours and a dish that the whole family can enjoy. If you only have smoked paprika or sweet paprika, it’s absolutely fine to just use a tablespoon of one. Same with the dried oregano or thyme.

SERVES 4 | PREP 20 MINS | COOK 40 MINS

EASY | GF

220g basmati rice

1 chorizo ring, thinly sliced into discs

1 large brown onion, finely diced

1 celery stalk, finely diced

1 green pepper, finely diced

2 red Romano peppers, sliced

2 tbsp tomato purée

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 tbsp sweet paprika

1/2 tbsp smoked paprika

1/2 tsp cayenne or chilli flakes

1/2 tsp dried thyme

1/2 tsp dried oregano

500ml chicken stock

250g raw prawns, peeled and deveined flat-leaf parsley, chopped, to serve lemon wedges, to serve

1 Rinse the rice until the water runs clear, then leave to soak in a large bowl of fresh water until needed. This will help to remove any excess starch.

2 Cook the chorizo in a large, lidded, highsided frying pan over a medium heat for a few minutes until the fat has melted into the pan and the chorizo is starting to crisp. Remove the chorizo from the pan with a slotted spoon and put on a plate.

Omagazine.com

3 Add the onion, celery and green pepper to the pan with the chorizo oil. Cover with the lid and sweat over a low-medium heat, stirring frequently, for 10-15 mins or until softened.

4 Return the chorizo to the pan, then add the red peppers, tomato purée, garlic, both paprikas, cayenne, thyme and oregano.

5 Drain the rice, then add it to the pan and stir through. Add the stock and stir to combine.

6 Bring to the boil, then cover with the lid, reduce the heat to low and cook for 15 mins until the stock has been absorbed by the rice.

7 Nestle the prawns into the top of the rice and cook, covered, for 5 mins until the prawns are pink and cooked through.

8 Sprinkle with parsley and serve with lemon wedges on the side.

PER SERVING 567 kcals | fat 21G saturates 7.7G | carbs 55.6G | sugars 9.6G fibre 6.9G | protein 35.5G | salt 3.2G

• Find more nourishing midweek meal solutions on Omagazine.com, including comforting one-pots, vibrant curries and protein-rich breakfasts.

48 March 2024 Omagazine.com

cook everyday

Cheat’s Vietnamese pho with mushrooms and pak choi

Fabulous comfort food when you’re feeling a little under the weather, pho features a warming broth with ginger and fragrant spices. Add noodles, mushrooms and pak choi, and it’s a wonderful meal, finished with fresh herbs for a little lift. This is a speedy, cheat’s version of the Vietnamese classic dish, as the original uses a broth cooked for hours. You can use more exotic mushrooms if you prefer, like shiitake (as pictured), oyster or nameko.

Recipes extracted from Eat & Enjoy Gluten Free by Laura Strange (£24, Hardie Grant).

Photographs: Lizzie Mayson.

Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

SERVES 2 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 30 MINS EASY | GF

2 shallots or 1 onion, finely diced

1 tbsp rapeseed or sunflower oil

1 tsp grated ginger

1/2 tsp caster sugar

1 cinnamon stick

1 star anise

2 cloves

250g chestnut mushrooms, thinly sliced

2 pak choi, sliced, white stalks and green leaves kept separately

2 tsp gluten-free tamari

1 tsp fish sauce, or gluten-free tamari for vegetarian option

900ml gluten-free vegetable or chicken stock

90g flat rice noodles or rice sticks

4 spring onions, sliced mint leaves, coriander, red chilli, sliced, and lime wedges, to serve (optional)

1 Fry the shallots in a non-stick, heavy-based pan with the oil over a medium-low heat for 5 mins until soft and beginning to caramelise.

2 Add the ginger, sugar, cinnamon, star anise and cloves, and cook for a couple of minutes over a medium heat, stirring frequently.

3 Add the mushrooms, pak choi stalks, tamari and fish sauce or extra tamari, and cook over a medium heat for a few minutes until the mushrooms are beginning to soften. Pour in the stock, bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 10 mins while you cook the noodles.

4 Bring a large pan of water to the boil and simmer the noodles for 5 mins until they are soft but still have some bite. Drain, rinse under cold running water and transfer them to a pan of cold water – this will stop the noodles from sticking.

5 Turn off the heat under the pho, remove the cinnamon, star anise and cloves with a slotted spoon, and discard. Add the drained noodles, pak choi leaves and spring onions. Stir through, then divide the pho between two bowls.

6 Serve topped with mint, coriander, chilli and lime wedges, if you like.

PER SERVING 334 kcals | fat 7.2G

saturates 1G | carbs 42.6G | sugars 6.5G fibre 7.8G | protein 20.6G | salt 4.1G

March 2024 Omagazine.com 49

Prawn risotto

This comforting risotto uses the prawn shells to create a rich seafood stock for the rice to bubble away in, before stirring through plump cooked prawns to serve

SERVES 4 | PREP 25 MINS

COOK 35 MINS | EASY

1 litre of chicken stock

400g raw shell-on king prawns

2 tbsp butter

2 tbsp olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, crushed

1 red chilli, finely chopped

700g arborio or other risotto rice

1 tbsp tomato purée

200ml white wine or vermouth

1 lemon, zested and juiced handful of parsley or chives, finely chopped extra-virgin olive oil, to serve

1 Bring the stock to a simmer in a pan over a high heat and lower in the prawns, cooking for 2 mins until pink. Strain out the prawns, then remove the heads and shells, and put these back into the stock, setting aside the prawns for later. Keep the stock on a low simmer to infuse.

2 Heat the butter and oil in a shallow casserole or deep frying pan and fry the onion for 8-10 mins or until soft but not golden. Stir in the garlic and chilli, fry for a minute, then add the rice. Fry for 6-7 mins or until the grains start to turn translucent. Stir in the purée and cook for 1 min.

3 Pour in the wine and bubble until all the liquid has evaporated. Strain the stock, or add a few ladlefuls at a time through a sieve into the rice. Stir and simmer over a low heat until absorbed, before adding a few more ladlefuls, Cook for 12-15 mins or until the rice is tender and the risotto is creamy. Stir in the lemon zest, a squeeze of juice, herbs and the cooked prawns. Fold in off the heat for 30 seconds to warm through the prawns just before serving. Drizzle with a little extra-virgin olive oil, if you like.

PER SERVING 421 kcals | fat 13G

saturates 5.1G | carbs 46G | sugars 4.4G fibre 2.6G | protein 20.8G | salt 2.6G

cook classic PHOTOGRAPH: TOM REGESTER. SHOOT
GILLIAN MCNEILL, FREDDIE STEWART.
MORAG FARQUHAR. FOOD STYLING:
DIRECTORS:
STYLING:
ELLIE JARVIS
50 March 2024 Omagazine.com

FIVE-NIGHT FOODIE TRIP THROUGH STUNNING SLOVENIA

Explore the rich culture and cuisine of this central European country with trips to Lake Bled, Ljubljana, Triglav National Park and a truffle-hunting expedition

DATES

● 17-22 April 2024

● 15-20 May 2024

● 2-7 October 2024

Slovenia is rich in rural beauty and has a wonderful cuisine, influenced by its diverse landscapes. This six-day tour will show you the mesmerising scenery and the delicious flavours of the country’s different regions.

Your first stop is Ljubljana, where you can stroll cobbled streets and people-watch in cute cafés. Kamnik, the centre of Slovenia’s craft beer production, is also on your itinerary and you’ll visit the town’s biggest brewery for a tour and tasting.

You’ll witness Slovenia’s exceptional scenery with a trip into the country’s verdant hills to learn about local herb and tea culture. Other landmarks on this trip are the famous Lake Bled, the majestic Triglav National Park where you’ll walk the Tolmin Gorge and the Vipava Valley, where you’ll taste some local wines.

A highlight of the tour will be a trufflehunting excursion where you’ll learn about the process of finding truffles before enjoying a hearty homestead dinner.

HIGHLIGHTS

● Serene Lake Bled Nestled in the Julian Alps, the lake has a backdrop of snowcapped peaks and, in the middle of the water, is a tiny island, home to a historic church.

● Truffle-hunting expedition Istria is renowned for its black and white truffles, and you’ll get a chance to hunt for them before tucking into some traditional Slovenian dishes made with truffles.

● Lovely Ljubljana The capital is considered one of Europe’s top upcoming culinary destinations and you’ll have the opportunity to treat yourself to dinner at the Michelinstarred Strelec restaurant.

● Wine tasting You’ll spend an afternoon in the Vipava Valley and sip on wines as the sun sets.

● Skocjan Caves A Unesco World Heritage Site made up of underground passages and waterfalls, and one of the world’s largest underground canyons, cut into the limestone by the Reka River.

● Slovenia’s craft beer capital The medieval town of Kamnik is a haven for microbreweries and you’ll get to tour one of them, and taste some of these brews to see what makes them so special.

WHAT’S INCLUDED:

● Return flights from the UK

● Services of a bilingual guide

● All transfers, including airport transfers on the arrival and departure day

● Two nights’ accommodation in Ljubljana

● One night’s accommodation in Bled

● Two nights’ accommodation in Istria

● Breakfast each day at your hotel, one picnic lunch and one homestead dinner

● Local herbs and tea tasting

● Visit to Velika Planina

● Brewery tour and craft beer tasting

● Visit to Triglav National Park

● Walk along the Tolmin Gorge Circuit

● Wine tour and tasting in the Vipava Valley

● Guided tour of the Unesco World Heritage Site, Skocjan Caves

● Olive oil tasting and picnic

● Truffle-hunting excursion

STYLING:XXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXX.FOOD STYLING:XXXXXX XXXXXXXX. WORDS XXXXXXXXX X XXXXXXXXX October 2023 Omagazine.com 51 discover cook like a local March 2024 51 To book call 03308 224 208 and quote ‘O Slovenia’ or, for more information, visit O.tripsmiths.com/slovenia TERMS AND CONDITIONS From price is per person, based on two people sharing a room, subject to availability. Price and itinerary correct at time of print but may be subject to change. Single supplement £250. Deposit 20% plus air fare. Local charges such as tourist tax may apply. Travel insurance is not included and should be taken out at time of booking. Images used may not reflect your actual tour experience. This holiday may be sold through other selected brands. Tour is operated by and subject to the booking conditions of TS Travel (ATOL bonded). O READER OFFER
From £1,199 per person

Your ticket includes free entry to

Meet women

Meet the women OF OUR SHOW

Weíre thrilled to welcome so many inspiring women, who will take centre stage at our Summer Show this June. You can watch these fabulous female chefs and food writers in action, as they share their expertise and give you a glimpse into their culinary expertise

NADIYA HUSSAIN

Nadiya’s kindness, amazing family values and delicious recipes have made her a firm favourite of the Good Food Shows, and we wouldn’t have it any other way! With an impressive 18 books under her belt and a regular star on our screens, we can’t wait to see what she whips up for us this June.

See Nadiya on the Big Kitchen stage, Saturday 15 June.

JANE DUNN

Jane Dunn is a food writer, photographer and blogger, with her popular blog Jane’s Patisserie. Now she’s taken the culinary world by storm with three number one best selling cookbooks, TV appearances and more exciting projects on the horizon to look forward to. Be dazzled by her sweet treats this June.

See Jane on the Big Kitchen stage, Friday 14 June.

BECKY EXCELL

Say hello to the ‘Queen of Gluten Free’. We can’t get enough of Becky’s self-taught, easy gluten free hacks, and neither can her loyal followers. Becky is a strong advocate for the coeliac community, sharing recipes to make sure no one misses out on eating the food they love, and has released 4 cookbooks, with one more on the way!

See Becky on the Summer Kitchen stage, Sunday 16 June.

JULIE LIN

We can’t wait to welcome Malaysian-Scottish chef Julie to the Summer Kitchen stage. You may recognise Julie from competing on Masterchef, as a regular on TVs Saturday Kitchen or from her appearance on The Hairy Bikers Go North series. As a restaurateur, cookery teacher and recipe writer, we know Julie will bring flare and flavour to the show!

See Julie on the Summer Kitchen stage, Friday 14 June.

Book tickets now at bbcgoodfoodshow.com 13 - 16 June 2024 | NEC Birmingham *20% off valid on adult/standard entry tickets – offer ends 23:59 1st April. All offers exclude VIP tickets, not valid with any other offer. £3.95 transaction fee per e-ticket per order, not all celebrities appear on all days and the line-up in subject to change. Details correct at time of print. Organised and presented by River Street Events at Immediate Media. Get 20%* off tickets with code OLIVE20 before 1 April
,_,Ô£,Kk£,ík£Ktk_√th,kô&…
NEW BOOK NOW

DISCOVER

Explore Malaysian street food courtesy of retro London restaurant Med Salleh, our pick of the UK’s best chef’s table experiences, plus venture into the food cultures of the Algarve and the French Alps

March 2024 Omagazine.com 53
PHOTOGRAPH: DAVID COTSWORTH

Med Salleh SIGNATUREDISH

Try authentic Malaysian street food at this relaxed 70s-style west London restaurant

54 March 2024 Omagazine.com
Recipes MED PANG and KOI LEE
CHICKENRICE HAINAN

Med Salleh Kopitiam brings the flavours of owners Med Pang and Koi Lee’s childhood memories of Malaysian street food. The menu covers Malay, Chinese and Tamil cuisines in a setting that also looks back, paying homage to the 70s household aesthetic that Med and his family grew up with. There’s even a mini grocery corner (kedai runcit) with a variety of snacks. Med’s grandma’s recipe for Hainanese chicken rice is a highlight of the menu and sits alongside dishes such as satay, laksa, beef rendang, char kuey teow (stir-fried noodles) and ais kacang (shaved ice with a selection of toppings including red beans). A buffet breakfast including roti canai and nasi lemak is served each morning. medsalleh.co.uk, @medsalleh.official

Hainan chicken rice

Make the condiments while the chicken cooks and this recipe will be quicker than it first appears.

SERVES 4 | PREP 45 MINS

COOK 1 HR | MORE EFFORT

4 free-range chicken legs

1-2 tbsp sunflower oil, for the chicken skin oil

1 spring onion, green part roughly chopped, white part finely chopped piece of ginger, skin on 2 lemongrass sticks, bashed

2 tsp salt

1 tbsp sesame oil

DARK SOY SAUCE

40ml dark soy sauce

1 tbsp rock sugar

GINGER AND SPRING ONION OIL

2 tbsp freshly grated ginger

½ tsp salt

4 spring onions, finely chopped 60ml oil

CHILLI SAUCE

5 red chillies

6 slices of ginger (peeled)

6 garlic cloves

2 tsp sugar

½ tsp salt

3 tbsp lime juice

CHICKEN RICE

2 tbsp chicken skin oil (see step 1) small piece of ginger

2 garlic cloves

1 lemongrass stick

1/2 tsp turmeric

375g fragrant rice

TO SERVE beansprouts white pepper cucumber, sliced coriander sprigs

1 Trim the excess skin off the chicken legs and cut into small pieces. Put the skin in a dry pan on a low heat and cook for 15 mins until the fat starts to render out and the skin shrivels. Add enough sunflower oil to make 2 tbsp in total and set aside for later.

2 Pour 2 litres of water in a large pan on a high heat, add the white parts of the spring onion, ginger, lemongrass and salt, and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to very low and add the chicken legs. Poach the chicken for 30-35 mins, then lift the legs out of the stock (setting the stock aside for later) and transfer to a large bowl of iced water for 5 mins to stop them cooking further. Remove from the iced water and drain well. Cut the meat from the chicken legs into pieces and rub the skin with sesame oil.

3 While the chicken is cooking, make up the dark soy sauce by heating 40ml water with

the rock sugar in a pan over a low heat. Stir constantly until the sugar dissolves and the liquid turns syrupy, then stir in the soy sauce.

4 To make the ginger and spring onion oil, pound the ginger and salt to a rough paste using a pestle and mortar, or finely chop. Add the spring onions and pound lightly to combine everything. Heat the oil in a pan until smoking and pour onto the ginger mixture.

5 Make the chilli sauce by blending the chillies, ginger, garlic, sugar and salt until smooth. Add the lime juice and mix.

6 For the chicken rice, put the chicken skin oil in a small pan and add the ginger, garlic, lemongrass and turmeric, stir for 4-5 mins or until the garlic browns, then strain.

7 Put the rice in a rice cooker or pan with a tightly fitting lid, add enough of the reserved chicken stock to come 1cm above the rice and the chicken oil. Cook following pack instructions or until the rice is tender and the stock has been absorbed.

8 To serve, give everyone a small bowl of chicken stock seasoned with white pepper and the chopped green parts of the spring onion. Serve the chicken with the condiments you have made in bowls for dipping and spooning over, with cucumber, beansprouts and coriander.

PER SERVING 933 kcals | fat 45.2G saturates 9.7G | carbs 89.3G | sugars 11.2G fibre 1.8G | protein 41.5G | salt 5.3G

March 2024 Omagazine.com 55 discover signature dish

Also on the menu

NASI LEMAK WITH BEEF RENDANG

Coconut rice (made with blue pea flour to give it a distinctive hue) served with a deeply savoury beef and coconut dry sauce and sambal.

Asam boi sour

MAKES

8

|

PREP 10 MINS | EASY

250ml sugar syrup

125ml fresh lime juice

2 tbsp plum powder (available online), plus extra for dusting

5 preserved plums (available online), lightly pounded

250ml single malt whisky

125ml rose syrup

25ml Martini Rosso Vermouth lime wedges, to garnish

1 Pour everything in a jug with 375ml of water and stir well. When serving, put some crushed ice into four small glasses. Pour the cocktail into the glasses and garnish with a wedge of lime, some preserved plum and a dusting of plum powder.

KEEP AN EYE ON @Omagazine ON INSTAGRAM FOR A VIDEO TOUR OF MED SALLEH

CHAR KUEY TEOW

Stir-fried flat noodles with clams and prawns.

AIS KACANG ATAS

A towering dessert of shaved ice, sweet milk, caramel, fruit syrups, roasted peanuts, red beans and other delights.

56 March 2024 Omagazine.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID COTSWORTH. SHOOT
discover signature cocktail
DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL
signature cocktail
March 2024 Omagazine.com 57

FRONT ROW EATS

O’s pick of Britain’s best chef’s table and counter-dining experiences

We love to watch chefs work, hear the stories behind their dishes or have them talk us through techniques. We hunger for a taste of what elevates their restaurant food. Just what is their secret?

There is no better place to glean such insider knowledge than at a chef’s table. The concept comes in various formats: large tables that pitch you into the theatre of a working kitchen; intimate sessions that operate almost as cookery lessons; counter dining where you can marvel up close at exquisite plating and finishing; or chefs serving you their signature dishes as they reveal the creative inspiration behind them.

Entertaining, enlightening and delicious, here are 10 chef’s table experiences that take you behind the scenes on some of Britain’s hottest food.

HIGHLAND HEAVEN

The Kitchen Table @ The Three Chimneys, Isle of Skye

Occupying an historic crofter’s farmhouse by Loch Dunvegan, the idyllic Chimneys has, for decades, made delicious use of regional ingredients such as Skye’s red deer or Sconser king scallops. A table for eight is tucked into chef Scott Davies’s busy kitchen, where the chefs talk to diners as they cook and step out from their sections to deliver modish plates of grilled potato bread with brown crab XO, crab claw, pear and lemon; or steamed, lightly pickled mussels, kohlrabi, lapsang souchong dashi and dill. If staying overnight in The House Over-By, look out for 2024 dates for Scott’s three-hour, three-course cookery classes, which go deep on game and seafood. threechimneys.co.uk

58 March 2024 Omagazine.com
March 2024 Omagazine.com 59 discover restaurants

EXCLUSIVE PERCH

Chef’s Table @ Cail Bruich, Glasgow

Chef Lorna McNee’s one-Michelin-star flagship includes a uniquely intimate two-seat chef’s table. This chic nook at one end of the kitchen pass, set around a bespoke triangular oak table, commands clear sightlines into the kitchen’s creation of tasting menu dishes such as crab, mussel, apple and caviar, or monkfish with langoustine XO, lime and ginger. A key feature of the chef’s table menu is a dish that revolves around an ingredient chosen by the champagne house, Krug. Recently, lemons inspired a barbecued Skye langoustine with smoked lemon beurre blanc, served with a glass of the latest of Krug’s grande cuvée champagnes. cailbruich.co.uk

CONTEMPORARY CLASSIC Chef’s Counter @ The Grill by Tom Booton, Dorchester Hotel, London

When, last year, Tom Booton’s name was appended to the Dorchester Grill, it heralded a new era for this grand hotel. Its smart dining room still dazzles – service is well drilled, but its fresh, informal vibe and sharing plates menu embody a shift to modernity. Dishes run from ’nduja scotch eggs to the showpiece “all the chicken” which includes a stuffed crown, glazed wings and chicken pies for two. Four diners can eat at the chef’s counter, where you can watch snacks such as cod doughnuts being finished as chefs barbecue lamb belly skewers. dorchestercollection.com

PRIVATE PARTY Chef’s Table @ Salt, Stratford-upon-Avon

A special space above Paul Foster’s Michelin-star restaurant, its chef’s table is an entirely self-contained experience, with its own bathroom, and diners able to choose the music. Chefs cook at hobs in and around the chef’s table, and the regularly changing dishes (stuffed saddle of lamb, labneh and green olive sauce; agnolotti pasta made from scratch), differ from Salt’s standard menu. Bookable for four to 10 people, the room is also used for guest chef events, cooking classes and Sunday lunch events, where Paul cooks your roast dinner while spinning his favourite albums. salt-restaurant.co.uk

60 March 2024 Omagazine.com

HOT BOOKING

Evelyn’s Table, London

This 12-seat chef’s counter beneath Soho’s The Blue Posts pub found fame under chef, Luke Selby. With Luke now exec chef at Le Manoir, it’s time for another emerging talent to take the reins. James Goodyear (ex-Hide, Mugaritz, Oslo’s Maaemo) certainly has the CV and exciting ideas for Evelyn’s next phase. Ease into your evening in the first-floor wine bar, The Mulwray, before the culinary theatre begins. Directly before you at the marble kitchen pass, five chefs execute James’ vision – think ultra-seasonal UK produce, classical French foundations, Scandi and Japanese influences across a five-course menu of, for example, glazed quail, pine nut, satay and morels; or West Country lamb, toasted yeast and wild garlic. theblueposts.co.uk

March 2024 Omagazine.com 61 discover restaurants

CUTTING-EDGE CATCH Chef’s Table @ The Sea, the Sea, London

A remarkable transformation of a Haggerston railway arch, this 14-seat counter dining space has a futuristic glamour entirely in keeping with Portuguese exec chef Leo Carreira’s cooking. As well as running restaurants, The Sea, the Sea is a wholesale retailer of predominantly South West seafood to hospitality businesses. Leo and his team utilise this stellar produce to create cutting-edge dishes. For example, dry-aged trout with banana miso or razor clams and caramelised yogurt. At the kitchen counter, chefs work omakase-style, and Leo shares his skills in regular masterclasses. theseathesea.net

FOODIE FANTASY

Aulis, London

Operating at a near-perfect intersection of impeccable produce, seasonality, tradition and modernism, Simon Rogan’s restaurants – most notably, his threeMichelin star flagship, L’Enclume – serve some of Britain’s most progressive food. At this stylish Soho bolthole, 12 diners are given real insight into how, from Rogan’s Cumbrian farm to the deft work of his chefs (led at Aulis by Charlie Tayler), the group creates dishes such as Newlyn crab on roast chicken skin with oxalis and horseradish vinegar, or pork and eel doughnut, cured pork fat and caviar. Diners sit around a beautiful curving counter, talking to the chefs as they work, plate and enthuse. aulis.co.uk

62 March 2024 Omagazine.com GO TO Omagazine.com FOR MORE RESTAURANTS AND TRAVEL

INTIMATE DISHES

Chef’s Table @ Tallow, Tunbridge Wells, Kent

About as close to the cooking action as the chef’s table gets. On Tallow’s second floor, chef-owner Rob Taylor cooks for eight guests seated at a bespoke kitchen workspace. A staff member pours wines as Rob creates a seven-course menu, chats, fields questions, shares his techniques and his passion for incredible ingredients. These are skilfully used in dishes of, say, red mullet, fennel and bouillabaisse, or treacle-cured ribeye, bone marrow hash brown, roasted carrot and peppercorn sauce. tallowrestaurant.co.uk

DELICIOUS DOUBLE ACT Eòrna, Edinburgh

Take a seat at this swish Stockbridge venue (a kitchen counter set-up, serving 12 guests) and, for around four hours, you’re in the hands of chef Brian Grigor and engaging wine enthusiast Glen Montgomery, two men dedicated to making sure you have a gastronomic blast. As Brian serves his seasonal, six-course menu and explains its evolution, Glen weaves around him pouring the good stuff – around 60 per cent of diners take the wine flight. Dishes might include smoked salmon tranche, cured locally to Brian’s recipe, served with lemon and beetroot purées, fresh apple, radish and smoked caviar, or partridge pithivier with parsnip purée and a duck black pepper jus. eornarestaurant.com

HEART OF THE ACTION

Mr Smith’s @ Freemasons at Wiswell, near Clitheroe

By night, the prep area at chef Steven Smith’s glossy gastropub is transformed to create a chef’s table for 12 and a four-stool kitchen bench. Both offer rare embedded access to a top-flight working kitchen. There are several menu options but most diners opt for the five-course tasting menu. In dishes of tandoori roast scallop with Thai mussel curry, baked sweet potato purée and apple, or beef fillet with sticky cheek, pickled tongue, gherkin ketchup, beef fat chips and Mr Smith’s sauce (a special gravy full of Steven’s “favourite beefy bits”), that tasting menu fully fleshes out the Freemasons MO. That is, modern British, pub-adjacent dishes elevated by an elegant fine dining finesse. freemasonsatwiswell.com

March 2024 Omagazine.com 63 discover restaurants

WALMER CASTLE

The refresh of this historical Notting Hill pub offers cosy interiors and a modern menu

Notting Hill’s Walmer Castle pub has had an excellent do-over by publican Jack Greenall (also of The Surprise in Chelsea). References to the area, pre-loved furniture and locally made fittings makes for the ideal décor for an area that includes Portobello Road. The ground floor is a proper pubby bar with a fire in the grate, art worth a closer look on the walls and a welcoming vibe. The menu gives you what you want from a modern pub including pork and fennel sausage rolls, braised ox cheek, halibut with smoked tomato and corn risotto, and a dry-aged beef burger. Vegetarian dishes such as celeriac schnitzel and gnocchi with hazelnut pesto are a cut above, and puddings include the crumble, opposite, and, of course, sticky toffee pudding. walmercastle-nottinghill.co.uk

64 March 2024 Omagazine.com LOVE YOUR LOCAL

Mulled apple and blackberry crumble

SERVES 4 | PREP 10 MINS | COOK 30 MINS EASY | GF

ice cream or custard, to serve

CRUMBLE

80g plant-based baking block, cubed 120g gluten-free plain flour or plain flour

40g demerara sugar

20g gluten-free oats or regular oats

20g walnut pieces, chopped

FILLING

4 tbsp red wine

20g golden caster sugar

½ tsp ground cinnamon

4 cloves

1 star anise

1 orange, zested

400g mixed apples, peeled, cored and cut into chunks (we used a mixture of Bramley and eating apples)

100g fresh or frozen blackberries

1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Pulse the baking block and flour in a food processor until it has a loose sandy texture. Alternatively, rub together with your fingers. Stir in the demerara sugar, oats and walnuts.

2 Put the wine in a pan with the caster sugar, cinnamon, cloves, star anise and orange zest. Heat gently until the sugar dissolves. Add the apples and simmer for 10 mins. Remove from the heat, fish out the cloves and star anise, then stir in the blackberries.

3 While still hot, spoon the mixture into a baking dish, top with the crumble and bake in the oven for 20-25 mins or until golden. Serve with ice cream or custard.

PER SERVING 428 kcals | fat 20.4G saturates 10G | carbs 52.8G | sugars 26.3G fibre 3.8G | protein 3.8G | salt 0.4G

We launched our Love Your Local campaign in 2023 to champion the beloved British pub, highlighting places we love and sharing recipes from them in the magazine and online. Visit Omagazine.com/love-your-local to find all of our pub content including podcasts, reader recs, recipes and advice on how you can support your local.

discover love your local March 2024 Omagazine.com 65

Solis

Critic KS Tong and O reader Alexandra O’Malley compare notes on this modern South American chicken and steak grill in Battersea

Kar-Shing ‘KS’ Tong works in the City by day, but spends his free time exploring and eating wherever his palate takes him. From street food to Michelin-starred restaurants, nothing is off the table, and he shares it all on Instagram @ks_ate_here

Our pro says

Talk about shattering expectations. Solis is billed as a chicken and steak grill – but it isn’t just any chicken and steak. It’s a beautifully marinated half spatchcock chicken with signature smoked ají-ají oil and a sous vide flat-iron steak with founder Ana Gonçalves and Zijun Meng’s moreish version of an entrecôte sauce.

Solis is located in a food hall but, make no mistake, it is a restaurant in its own right. With its classic hardwood furniture and walls enriched with artwork and photography paying homage to Uruguay’s heyday at the start of the 20th century, the buzzing 80-cover open-plan dining room transports guests to the clamorous parrillas of South America from the moment you enter.

The menu is accessible and represents great value, with headliners from the “de la parrilla” section of the menu, which includes the forementioned spatchcock chicken and flat-iron steak, and comes with fries and an Asador salad (a classic accompaniment of sliced onion and tomatoes, dressed with oregano and olive oil that is traditionally served across peri-peri chicken shops in Portugal). But it would be a shame to miss the snacks from the “para picar” section, especially the huevos rellenos (a play on devilled eggs with a spiced tuna filling and salsa golf sauce), and a travesty not to get the torta de queso, aka the creamiest cheesecake that did ever hit these lips, served with a tart blueberry sauce.

It might be one of the three types of sangria – which leads a concise cocktails and wine list championing Latin American produce – talking, but this is somewhere I could come back to on the regular. Unfussy and warm, serving the sort of food that you always want.

TOTAL BILL FOR TWO: £101.81 including service ATMOSPHERE: 8

SERVICE: 8

FOOD: 8

TOTAL: 24/30

Alexandra O’Malley lives in central London and works in events. She eats out three to four times a week and her best eating experience was the tasting menu at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons.

Our punter says

Solis is part of the Arcade food hall at Battersea Power Station but feels set apart from the food-hall-type offerings nearby. As we approached, we could hear the buzz of people and loud Latin music, our first indicator of what we could expect from this energetic and friendly restaurant.

Service was swift but not rushed. Bread and oil arrived immediately accompanied by an explanation of the drinks on offer. Sangrias were sharpened with gin, brandy or cognac – I chose the cognac, which was sweet but had quite a kick to it. It could have been lethal had I ordered more.

We started with “para picar” (‘for the table’), choosing elotes – corn on its cob with a creamy topping which had a punch of citrus and spice – and the beef and caramelised onion croquetas: their very crispy and thin shells gave way to a sumptuous centre with a hint of mustard, and were delicious. We ordered more immediately.

Next we went for what Solis is all about – steak and chicken from the grill. We opted for the combinado, the meat served with spicy golden fries and a tomato salad, which was a bit too salty for our taste. The flatiron, cooked medium rare, was melt in the mouth, pink on the inside, surrounded by a dark char, and was served with a green garlic sauce which they should bottle and sell by the truckload. My chicken was moist on the inside and the ají-ají oil which had been brushed on it was sweet and spicy.

The star of the show was the torta de queso, a salty, cheesy and sweet slice of baked cheesecake heaven topped with berry compote. The meat may have drawn us to Solis but it’s for the cheesecake we’ll return.

TOTAL BILL FOR TWO: £91.44 including service ATMOSPHERE: 8

SERVICE: 9

FOOD: 8

TOTAL: 25/30

66 March 2024 Omagazine.com
PHOTOGRAPHS: TIM ATKINS PHOTOGRAPHY

KEEP AN EYE ON @Omagazine ON INSTAGRAM FOR A VIDEO TOUR OF SOLIS

Solis is the personal product of Ana Gonçalves’ (along with husband Zijun Meng, who together are behind cult favourites TĀ TĀ Eatery and Tou) desire to showcase food from her childhood and challenge the conventional expectations of the steak night. With bold flavour influences from Spain, Portugal, Uruguay and Argentina, Solis is looking to break the mould without breaking the bank. Located right in the heart of Battersea Power Station’s multi-billion-pound restoration and redevelopment, it offers an accessible menu headlined by its signature grilled spatchcock chicken (£15) and flat-iron steak (£20), both served with salad, fries and a big side of South American vibrancy. arcadefoodhall.com/solis discover

March 2024 Omagazine.com 67
restaurant review

THIS MONTH with Gurdeep Loyal

Our trends expert discovers there’s more to Munich’s food and drink scene than beer, and shares a recipe for cannelloni with an Asian twist

Shiso pesto and ricotta cannelloni

SERVES 6 (MAKES 18 TUBES) | PREP 40 MINS

COOK 35 MINS | EASY

18g (25-30 medium leaves) green shiso perilla leaves

6 tbsp olive oil

2 large garlic cloves

100g breadcrumbs

500g ricotta

25g parmesan, grated

1 lemon, zested and juiced

200g ready roasted red peppers

680-700g tomato passata

225g dried cannelloni pasta tubes

2-4 tbsp milk (optional)

2 x 125g mozzarella balls dressed green salad, to serve (optional)

1 Put the shiso, oil, garlic and a pinch of salt in a small blender or food processor, then whizz into a smooth pesto oil.

2 Tip the breadcrumbs into a large mixing bowl and pour over most of the pesto oil, reserving about 2 tbsp to drizzle over the top. Mix well until the crumbs are a moist rubble.

3 Add the ricotta, parmesan, 2 tsp of lemon zest, 4 tbsp of lemon juice and 1/2 tsp of fine sea salt. Mix well and set aside for 5 mins.

4 Blitz the peppers with a splash of water in a blender to a paste, then tip into a bowl and stir in the passata. Pour half of the sauce into a deep 22cm x 28cm casserole dish.

5 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Add 2-4 tbsp of milk to the ricotta mixture if needed to make a pipeable mixture, then fill each of the dried cannelloni tubes using a spoon or piping bag. Lay them side by side on top of the tomato base. Pour over the rest of the sauce, tear over the mozzarella, then drizzle with the reserved shiso pesto oil (add 1/2 tbsp more oil to the pesto to loosen, if needed).

6 Bake in the oven for 35-40 mins or until cooked through and bubbling. Season generously with black pepper and serve with a dressed green salad, if you like.

PER SERVING 584 kcals | fat 31.5G

saturates 14.1G | carbs 47.4G | sugars 8.8G

fibre 4.6G | protein 25.3G | salt 1.7G

SHISO LEAF TRY

Also known as perilla leaf, this deeply aromatic Asian herb has a unique shape with a jagged edge. It has a strong herbal flavour, with hints of clove, liquorice, basil and mint; and there are green or purple varieties. Shiso leaf is a staple of Japanese cuisine, often used as an edible garnish for sushi platters or for wrapping sashimi, but it can also be used in place of herbs like basil, such as in this recipe where it adds a unique citrussy-anise flavour to the pesto oil. It’s an ingredient loved by chefs like Jurek Wasio and Yuichi Nakaya of Mayha London. You can buy it at The Japan Centre, Longdan supermarkets or other good Asian supermarkets.

68 March 2024 Omagazine.com

Gourmet destination: Munich, Germany

While the German city of Munich is most famous for its beer-fuelled Oktoberfest, it’s also a unique culinary destination. Hip restaurant Ciao Chang (ciaochang.de) merges a Japanese izakaya with Bavarian cuisine serving up dishes like beetroot carpaccio with hokkaido, cashew and matcha-yuzu vinaigrette and Bavarian straw pig spring rolls. Dr Drooly (doctordrooly.de) is a trendy vegan pizzeria with inventive creations like its Shroomy with oyster mushroom cream, pangrattato and miso oil, and its Hot Birdie with pickled jalapeño, vegan “chick’n” and Drooly’s secret sauce. Bar Bravo (@bravo.monaco) is a lively Italian-influenced café-bar that specialises in aperitivo cocktails, Italian charcuterie and fresh pasta. And Ukiyo (ukiyogermany.com) is a contemporary Japanese restaurant with dishes like soft shell crab karaage and flambéed salmon and prawn tempura sushi rolls.

TREAT

Nina MacLean of Mackerel Sky Seafood Bar, Cornwall

“After university, we travelled around the world for a year, working in an oyster bar in Sydney and a hotel in Perth. We realised our dream was to run a restaurant of our own and Cornwall was where we wanted to be, so we moved here in 2012. The restaurant sits in the middle of Newlyn, which has one of the country’s largest fishing fleets and markets – there’s a huge variety of fish and shellfish available in our surrounding waters. We aim to bring the freshest and most local seafood to our customer’s plates in a simple, unfussy way, but with modern touches. Our menu centres around tasting plates so people can enjoy several different dishes. Our restaurant has a very casual and relaxed vibe with a buzzy atmosphere. The ingredients are fresh and local – all our fish is from Newlyn, and our veg, dairy and bread are all Cornish. One of our original and staple dishes is our Newlyn crab nachos; also hugely popular is the lemon sole with homemade katsu curry sauce, and often we have half Newlyn lobsters or lobster-loaded fries on special.” mackerelskycafe.co.uk

THE SECRET TO CRUNCHY-CHEWY COOKIES TIP

How you balance white versus brown sugar, and egg whites versus yolks is the key to baking the perfect cookie that suits your taste. White sugar and extra egg whites make for crunchy cookies, while brown sugar and extra yolks make for softer, denser cookies. For perfect crunchy-chewy cookies, use a mixture of white and brown sugars, add an extra white and a good pinch of baking soda, and always chill before baking.

Gurdeep Loyal is a food and drink trends specialist who built his career working at Harrods Food Halls, Innocent Drinks and M&S Food.

He’s also a food writer and curator of online platform Mother Tongue. Find more recipes in Gurd’s book, Mother Tongue. @gurd_loyal

He’s also a food writer and curator of online Mother Tongue Find more in Gurd’s book Mother @gurd loyal Gurdeep Loyal is a food and drink trends specialist who built his career working at Harrods Food Halls, Innocent Drinks and M&S Food. He’s also a food writer and curator of online platform Mother Tongue. Find more recipes in Gurd’s book, Mother Tongue. @gurd_loyal

March 2024 Omagazine.com 69
RECIPE PHOTOGRAPH: KAREN THOMAS. SHOOT DIRECTOR:
SILBERMANN. OTHER PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, TOOGA/DIGITALVISION/GETTY
TRAVEL
GILLIAN MCNEILL. STYLIST: JO HARRIS. FOOD STYLIST: LIBBY
discover
trends

THE MEASURE

This month we have gift ideas for a drinks aficionado, a tropical cocktail recipe and the perfect venue for a celebratory evening out to celebrate

HOME BAR HACKS

Ice, ice and more ice

Ice is vital to making great mixed drinks and cocktails at home. However, it can be difficult to remember to stock up, especially in the colder months. If you’re having people over, try to fill your ice cube tray a day or two in advance, then you can decant it into a reusable freezer box or bag, and repeat. If you’ve forgotten and your guests are due over soon but you’ve only got one tray worth of ice, don’t panic. Chill your other ingredients well (if the weather is still chilly, you can just leave sparkling water, fruit juice, etc, outside) and you can make what ice you have go a bit further. Alternatively make a quick dash to a local shop for a bag of ice but aim for the bigger ice cubes if you can, as they will give you a bit more control with the dilution. For more drinks recipe inspiration, visit Omagazine.com.

THIS MONTH WE’RE DRINKING...

Melifera Gin (£39.95/700ml, hedonism.co.uk)

An organic French gin distilled with the immortelle flower. Often used in fragrance, immortelle provides delicately spicy, floral and warm hay notes. This plays well with the other eight botanicals (including cardamom and angelica) which all harmoniously frame the juniper. Delicate with a touch of citrus sweetness, this would be great with a light tonic in a gin fizz or a martini garnished with a lemon twist.

3

PERFECT HOST

Difford’s Easy Jigger Cocktail Measure (£7.75, diffordsguide.com)

With measurements in both ml and fl oz, ranging from 1.25ml up to 60ml, this cocktail measure will quickly start to improve your accuracy and means that the measuring spoons can go back in the baking drawer. The numbers are on the inside so you don’t have to keep lifting it up or bending down to see what you’ve poured. The base allows it to sit up-turned in the shaker or jug without falling in, plus it’s magnetic. A very handy piece of kit.

-INGREDIENT COCKTAIL

Piña colada martini

A bright and easy cocktail that’s perfect for early spring celebrations.

Pour 25ml of gin, 50ml of coconut rum and 100ml of pineapple juice into a cocktail shaker. Add a handful of ice and shake until the shaker feels ice-cold. Strain into two glasses and serve. If you like, you can garnish with a wedge of fresh pineapple or the sprig of a soft herb such as coriander or mint.

PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, TODD TAULMAN/500PX/GETTY
70 March 2024 Omagazine.com

DRAM BAR, LONDON

Where? You’d be forgiven for walking past this low-key and unassuming Soho frontage of sanded wooden shutters on Denmark Street, but head in and this Grade II listed building starts to slowly unfold with surprises. There’s a basement bar, an open garden terrace, upstairs pool table room, private events room and a hidden drinks development “lab”. The more you uncover, the more you appreciate the creative vision of the founders – Chris Tanner, Martyn ‘Simo’ Simpson and Jack Wallis – as they’ve skilfully dissected and reassembled the concepts of what a bar is.

What to order?

The lab is where seasonal ingredients are fermented or “cordialised” and find their way into a short but succinct cocktail menu. Many are on tap and so available swiftly in the bar areas. Try one of the lower ABV highball serves such as the Mezcal & Coconut, or a stirred-down cocktail like Beetroot and Raspberry Wine, with a subtle earthiness from the beetroot that balances well with the sweet sharpness of the wine. drambar.co.uk

Bartender’s tip

Chris Tanner, Dram: “A showstopper, if you feel like levelling up a bit, can be to make a milk punch ahead of time. A milk punch is a technique where the spirit or elements of a cocktail are gently heated with milk and the milk solids removed. This results in a clearer finish (without a milky taste) and can smooth out the flavours in the drink. Making them at home is possible with coffee filter paper and by following video instructions online, aimed at the home bartender. These look and taste great. Have fun being creative with them.”

KEEP AN EYE ON @Omagazine ON INSTAGRAM FOR A VIDEO TOUR OF DRAM BAR discover drinks March 2024 Omagazine.com 71
Visit buysubscriptions.com/OLGF324 Call 03330 162 124* quoting code OLGF324 SUBSCRIBE TODAY Scan the QR code and subscribe right away This offer is available to UK delivery addresses and by direct debit only. You will pay £5 for your first five issues, then £22.50 every six issues thereafter still saving 42%. You will be notified of any future price changes before they take effect. This offer closes on 21 March 2024. All savings are calculated as a percentage of the full shop price. Should the magazine ordered change in frequency, we will honour the number of issues and not the term of the subscription. Standard UK subscription price £78; Europe and Republic of Ireland €110; USA and Canada US$143.88; Australia and New Zealand A$160; rest of the world US$133. *UK calls will cost the same as other standard fixed-line numbers (starting 01 or 02) and are included as part of any inclusive or free minutes allowances (if offered by your phone tariff). Outside of free-call packages, call charges from mobile phones will cost between 3p and 65p per minute. Please visit buysubscriptions.com/contact for customer service opening hours. Reader offer for BBC Good Food Magazine As a Subscriber Club member, you can enjoy these brilliant benefits Great savings versus the magazine price in shops Exclusive recipes in your issue every month Free delivery direct to your door Subscriber-only offers, with discounts on wine and travel 70+ recipes in every issue Plus, you’ll never miss an issue of the UK’s number one food magazine! YOURFIRSTFIVE ISSUESFORJUST£5 TRY A SUBSCRIPTION TO AND GET YOUR FIRST FIVE ISSUES FOR ONLY £5. YOU’LL RECEIVE 70+ RECIPES IN EVERY ISSUE, AS WELL AS TIPS TO EAT SEASONALLY, ADVICE TO LOVE YOUR LEFTOVERS AND NEW IDEAS TO MAKE HOME COOKING EASIER THAN EVER BEFORE. CLUB SUBSCRIBER £1 per issue £6.50

WINE 101

with Kate Hawkings

South Africa’s Stellenbosch region has a terroir ideally suited to creating stellar whites. In part six of her essential guide to wine, Kate Hawkings highlights the best bottles to look out for

BOTTLES TO BUY

Love Bite New Theory (£21.95,drinknewtheory.com)

Traditional-method fizz that’s understandably one of Majestic’s bestsellers. From a family winery with a solid commitment to sustainability and biodiversity, this chardonnay/pinot noir blend gives a lot of bang for your buck.

Creamy bubbles carry plenty of lemonand-lime zest along with a soft, toasty finish. A luxurious accompaniment to the broccoli tempura with white miso mayonnaise on p16.

From two UK-based brothers working with hotshot South African winemaker Xander Grier. They’re producing quirky, low-intervention wines using top-quality grapes from old vines. This is made with cinsault, fermented in whole bunches using wild yeasts and is bottled unfiltered and unfined – fresh with crunchy red berries and a lovely saline smack. Ace with the filo tart of mixed greens and feta on p18.

Omagazine.com

Stellenbosch

Stellenbosch is South Africa’s most important wine region, dating from the 17th century when Huguenot refugees from France brought vines and know-how, and so kicked off the country’s now hugely successful wine industry.

The vibrant university town of Stellenbosch, 30 miles to the east of Cape Town, is the heart of the region. It is the birthplace of pinotage, a muscly crossing of pinot noir and cinsault that, along with shiraz, and Bordeaux stalwarts cabernet sauvignon and merlot, is perfectly suited to the terroir. This terroir is the unique combination of landscape, soil and climate – hot, dry summers cooled by breezes from the Atlantic Ocean – that makes Stellenbosch so special, and with a range of micro-climates within the region, many other grapes now thrive here as well.

Chenin blanc is the star of the white show, known for its versatility to produce abundant dry wines as well as sweet and sparkling styles; sauvignon blanc and riesling also do well, as does chardonnay, often made rich and opulent in a decidedly new-world style.

A blanket ban on the production and sale of alcohol during the Covid pandemic dealt a blow to South Africa’s wine industry. About 10% of Stellenbosch’s producers went to the wall but out of that crisis has come a reinvigoration of the winemaking heritage, along with an explosion of wine tourism boosting the whole economy of the region.

Stellenbosch produces plenty of affordable supermarket wines, but it’s increasingly making excellent premium bottles as well. These are often made with grapes from the old vines that are being championed both by traditional wineries and by a forward-thinking generation of young winemakers, reviving forgotten vineyards, embracing new techniques and showing real commitment to environmental protections and meaningful social change.

Rustenberg Stellenbosch Malbec (£13.99, Waitrose)

The Rustenberg estate has been farming cattle and making wine since 1781. The current family of owners is in its third generation with grandson Murray Barlow now their award-winning winemaker. This makes a nice change from Argentinian malbec –it has bags of brambly, plummy fruit and a bit of spice, but is lifted with an attractive earthy freshness. Try it with the prawn and chorizo jambalaya on p48.

SPEEDY SERVE

Espresso and tonic

This is a great choice when you’re steering clear of alcohol – really quick and easy to make, and with the little kick of caffeine to give a booze-free boost. I use whatever’s left over from my morning stovetop coffee – any fairly strong brew will do. The original (and Instagram-friendly) technique is to pour tonic water into a tumbler over plenty of ice, then slowly pour over 50ml of coffee so it swirls on top. Add a good squeeze of lemon and serve.

• Learn more about wine at Omagazine.com, from new grapes worth trying to the best wine subscriptions.

KATE HAWKINGS IS A WRITER AND WINE CONSULTANT. HER LATEST BOOK, THE LITTLE BOOK OF APERITIFS: 50 CLASSIC COCKTAILS AND DELIGHTFUL DRINKS, IS OUT NOW (£10, QUADRILLE). FOLLOW HER ON X @KATEHAWKINGS

discover wine
Majestic Villiera Cap Classique Brut (£16.99, Majestic)
March 2024 Omagazine.com 73

COOK LIKE A LOCAL

French Alps

Luxuriate in these hearty Alpine classics, from fluffy potato pancakes to creamy braised chicken

Words and recipes

74 March 2024 Omagazine.com

The mountains of eastern France form a natural border: a barrier to travel, trade and the march of armies. It is no coincidence that the frontiers of France, Switzerland and Italy meet at the highest peaks in Western Europe. As the height of the mountains rises and the passes become more inaccessible, the food becomes less nuanced and more direct. Mountain cookery is first and foremost about fuel. Up here the larder is restricted, for the soils are thin and sparse, but the pasture is excellent, the potatoes are good and the cheeses delicious.

Although the shopping basket is limited, the French Alps are home to some great dishes. Cooks here have learnt to work with what they have: lake trout and char, crayfish, feathered game in season, wild mushrooms, potatoes, cabbages, chestnuts, smoked salted pork and sausages, rich cream and some of the world’s best cheeses.

The people of the mountains, isolated in their high valleys, have created their culinary traditions with little outside influence – perhaps a traveller or trader from over the pass brings an ingredient, a different tradition, or word of a recipe or two, but otherwise these folk quietly get on with tending their herds, making their cheeses and cooking the hearty food they love.

I find it fascinating that the traditions on both sides of the French-Italian border have evolved in parallel – pasta made with buckwheat or chestnut flours, soups of wild mushrooms, smoked pork or wild greens, gratins of turnips, potatoes or pumpkin, thick baked soups with cabbages, bread and beef stock, and hearty stews of furred or feathered game flavoured with red wine or the local liqueur, Chartreuse.

Chicken with morels and vin jaune

A classic dish from the Jura, where the chicken would traditionally have been the most expensive part of the meal – the morels foraged for free in spring and the vin jaune (yellow wine) an affordable local wine. Nowadays the opposite is true, unless you happen to have a patch of morels in your garden. Vin jaune is a rather special thing, a slightly oxidised wine made from the savagnin grape, with a flavour not unlike dry sherry – well worth tracking down if you have a pretty penny to spare.

SERVES 4 | PREP 30 MINS | COOK 3 HRS 30 MINS | EASY | GF

1.5kg chicken, jointed (you can ask a butcher to do this for you)

oil, for frying

30g unsalted butter, plus a knob for frying and 15g (cold, cubed) to finish the sauce

1/2 shallot, finely diced

20 morels, fresh in season or dried ones soaked in cold water until soft small glass of vin jaune, plus a splash to finish the sauce

1 litre chicken stock (see below)

150ml double cream

lemon juice (optional)

rice pilaf, to serve CHICKEN STOCK

500g chicken wings, plus the carcass left from the jointed chicken

½ shallot

½ celery stick

1 bay leaf

thyme sprig

few black peppercorns

1 Heat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. To make the stock, put the chicken wings and the carcass in a large roasting tin. Roast until light golden brown. Transfer to a large stockpot (leave the chicken fat in the tin) with the remaining stock ingredients and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil, skim well, then reduce to a simmer for 1 hr 30 mins, skimming periodically.

2 Strain through a sieve, then reduce the liquid by half until 1 litre remains. Season the chicken pieces with salt. Heat a little oil in a large pan and brown the pieces on both sides, adding a knob of butter towards the end. When the pieces are golden all over, remove to a plate and pour off the excess fat in the pan. Melt the 30g of butter, then add the diced shallot and a pinch of salt – cook slowly until the shallot is very soft.

3 Halve the morels if they are large but leave any small or medium ones whole. Add the mushrooms to the pan and fry gently until they have softened and absorbed some of the butter – season them lightly with salt. Add the vin jaune and simmer until reduced to a syrupy consistency.

4 Reintroduce the chicken pieces, skin-side up, and add the stock – you might not need it all – to almost cover the chicken but leave the golden skin sitting above the liquid.

5 Half cover with a lid and cook for 30 mins at a simmer. The sauce should reduce until it tastes delicious but the aim is to have a lot of it, so don’t reduce too far (add a little more stock if you think it needs it). Pour in the cream and swirl the pot. Simmer slowly for 15 mins until the chicken is cooked and the sauce has thickened slightly.

6 Remove the chicken to a serving dish that will also hold the sauce. Taste the sauce for salt and finish by whisking in a good splash of vin jaune, the cold cubed butter and a little squeeze of lemon juice, if you like. Pour the sauce over the chicken and serve, with a rice pilaf on the side.

PER SERVING 671 kcals | fat 50.9G saturates 24.1G | carbs 3.6G | sugars 2.3G fibre 2.5G | protein 43.6G | salt 1.7G

March 2024 Omagazine.com 75 discover cook like a local
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK, ISTOCK EDITORIAL/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, JOHNER IMAGES/GET TY

Matefaim

Thick fluffy pancakes from the mountains of Savoie, matefaim or matafan means ‘kill hunger’. These are made in different ways and can be either savoury or sweet but always with what are winter staples in the mountains: flour, eggs, butter and sometimes potatoes – bacon (or at least bacon fat) is a common addition. They are usually served for dinner with a green salad but the version here reminded me of potato farls, so feel free to eat them for breakfast with bacon and eggs.

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS | COOK 25 MINS | EASY

100g floury potatoes, unpeeled 60g plain flour

1 tbsp unsalted butter or bacon fat, melted, plus extra for frying

2 eggs, separated green salad or bacon and fried eggs, to serve

1 Boil the potatoes in a pan of salted water. Drain and allow to cool, then peel and mash – don’t worry if there are a few little lumps. Mix the flour with the potato, then whisk in 120ml of warm water and the melted butter, followed by the egg yolks and a pinch of salt.

2 Whisk the egg whites to stiff peaks and fold into the batter. Melt a knob of butter or some bacon fat in a hot frying pan and cook the matefaims like pancakes. If desired, keep warm in a low oven while you prepare the others –this can sometimes result in slightly crispy edges to the pancakes, which is no bad thing. What really helps to keep the pancakes fluffy is to pop them onto a cooling rack rather than a plate, because the trapped steam will soften and deflate them somewhat.

3 As a variation, sprinkle some chopped ham and grated mountain cheese into the batter before frying, which is especially nice with a simple green salad for lunch. Or serve with bacon and fried eggs for breakfast.

PER PANCAKE 136 kcals | fat 5.7G saturates 2.7G | carbs 15.3G | sugars 0.3G fibre 1G | protein 5.3G | salt 0.2G

Tagliatelle with walnuts and lovage

This recipe is adapted from Madeleine Kamman’s Savoie: The Land, People, and Food of the French Alps. Her version calls for the Swiss seasoning known as Maggi but I think the flavours here are interesting enough without. In Madeleine’s recipe the tagliatelle – taillerins in Savoyard dialect – are infused with powdered celery seeds and Maggi powder, and tossed in a sauce of butter, garlic, walnuts, lovage and cream. Celery leaf can be substituted for lovage if you wish but it is something that I often see in good greengrocers so, if you spot some, consider this recipe.

SERVES 2 | PREP 5 MINS | COOK 10 MINS | EASY

2 portions of fresh or dried tagliatelle

50g unsalted butter

2 garlic cloves, finely sliced 50g walnuts, coarsely chopped ½ bunch of lovage, coarsely chopped

4 tbsp double cream

1 tbsp crème fraîche gruyère, beaufort or fontina, grated, to serve

1 Boil the pasta in a pan of salted water until al dente. Meanwhile, melt the butter in a pan and gently fry the garlic until it sticks together but has no colour. Add the walnuts and continue to fry for a minute or two, then add the lovage.

2 Stir and swiftly follow with the cream and crème fraîche. Toss the drained cooked pasta in the sauce, moistening it with a little of the cooking water. Serve immediately, topped with grated cheese and a grinding of black pepper.

PER SERVING 993 kcals | fat 61.2G

saturates 28G | carbs 84.1G | sugars 4.5G fibre 6.3G | protein 23.1G | salt 0.6G

Recipes extracted from Frontières: The Food of France’s Borderlands by Alex Jackson (Pavilion Books). Photographs: Charlotte Bland. Recipes are sent by the publisher and not retested by us.

76 March 2024 Omagazine.com discover cook like a local

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THINGS WE LOVE ABOUT

10 the southern Algarve

Marco Mendes, co-founder of MJMK and Casa do Frango, shares his favourite things about the food and culture of the area where he grew up

1SARDINES AND SEASONALITY

There’s no bad time of year to visit the Algarve, where even winter days can be over 20 degrees with perfect sunshine. My favourite month is June, the start of the sardinha (sardine) season – which usually runs until September – and it’s also my father’s birthday. My dad will put a sardine in between two slices of bread, expertly eating it so all that remains is the spine. As they would with many dishes, such as chicken, prawns and amêijoas (clams), many Portuguese will eat sardines with their hands. February is the month of carnival in Portugal, and my hometown of Loulé hosts one annually over three days.

2FOOD AND FAMILY

Very important to the Portuguese. Think loud and convivial local tascas filled on a Sunday lunchtime with sometimes four generations of family, from bizavó (greatgrandmother) to newborn. In rural areas, a home-cooked meal could be a galo (cockerel) despatched by the avó (grandmother) that

morning on her farm, as was common during my childhood at my grandparents’ farm.

3 EATING ETIQUETTE

It’s fairly standard that one doesn’t start eating until everyone is at the table. Typically, the host would say bom apetite or bom proveito. There is great respect for elders, culturally, so when they speak, others provide full attention. Children are encouraged to eat dinner with the adults, and tablets and phones are frowned upon – although this is not to say it doesn’t happen.

4BREAKFAST

This could be at a padaria – a local bakery and café – with a bica (small, strong coffee) and pastel de nata (custard tart), or dunking pão torrado (buttered toast) into a large milky coffee known as a galão. Some Algarvians might have scrambled eggs and chouriço with locally made bread, if eating at home.

5EATING OUT

Most restaurants, whether family-run or more upmarket, offer a prato do dia (dish of the day). Most meals start with couvert, local bread, olives and carrots marinated in garlic and coriander.

6FISH

There’s an abundance of line-caught fresh fish – robalo (sea bass) and dourada (sea bream) being very popular – and vegetables available at local markets, with great focus placed on seasonality and fresh ingredients.

7 PRAWNS

Camarão de Quarteira are the prawns named after the fishing town of Quarteira, which is close to where I am from in the Algarve. These gambas da costa (prawns from the coast) can be boiled but my favourite recipe is pan-fried in olive oil and garlic with piri-piri, as we do at Casa do Frango.

78 March 2024 Omagazine.com

8CHURRASQUEIRAS

The ubiquitous grill houses where only wood and charcoal are used (no gas), and the grill chefs are known for their mastery of the fire. They serve grilled fish, chicken piri-piri, ribs and steaks. We say ‘fala com o fogo’ (he/ she speaks to the fire).

9SNACKING

Snacking is encouraged and many do this at the padarias or pastelerias (pastry shop) in the mid-morning and mid-afternoon, with the tosta mista (ham and cheese toastie) being very popular.

10SHOTS

Matabicho, including medronho made from strawberries, and aguardente made from grapes, is a strong alcoholic shot believed to kill the stomach bugs. Cocktails are not so popular among older locals, who instead prefer Portuguese vinho da casa (house wine), beer (usually Super Bock) and port wine after dinner.

discover 10 things March 2024 Omagazine.com 79
from far left Portuguese street food cooked over a fire; fresh prawns found in the waters of the Algarve; pastel de natas, which are sometimes eaten at breakfast; and sardines, which are in season from June to September Marco Mendes brings his Portuguese heritage to life via the venues opened by MJMK restaurants, of which he is co-founder. MJMK celebrates culture and heritage through food and drink offering authentic gastronomic experiences, from cult-favourite frango piri-piri restaurant Casa do Frango to Nuno Mendes’ Lisboeta. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK EDITORIAL, ISTOCK/GETTY IMAGES PLUS, ALEXANDER SPATARI/MOMENT/GETTY

Make it

extraordinary

You can experience the finest traditional flavours from all over the world with Princess Cruises’ awardwinning speciality restaurants

From destination-inspired dishes made entirely from scratch to all-inclusive drinks packages, Princess Cruises is renowned for its award-winning foodie offering. In fact, you’ll be able to choose from an impressive variety of complimentary and casual eats, plus unforgettable immersive experiences, from the moment you step on board.

But when you’re looking for something exceptional, you won’t want to miss Princess Cruises’ speciality dining, which is where its culinary credentials really shine. Whether you’re celebrating a big event or the simple joy of spending time with your favourite people, you’ll find a speciality restaurant for every occasion – and each one is designed to bring you and your loved ones together for a truly memorable meal.

A gastronomic adventure

If you fancy a proper Italian feast, the talented chefs at Sabatini’s have been cooking up authentic recipes for nearly two decades. From hearty ragus to homemade pasta that’s rolled and shaped by hand every day, this trattoria-style restaurant is the perfect place to experience the true flavours of Italy. Alternatively, The Catch by Rudi offers a seafood-centric menu created by Princess’s head of culinary arts, chef Rudi Sodamin. Here, you can choose from an array of boils, bakes and bisques made with local ingredients, plus there’s also a catch of the day and a lobster and raw seafood bar to explore.

And for meat lovers, it has to be Crown Grill, where you can tuck into cooked-to-order steaks that are aged and cut on board. This restaurant is also known for its unique take on the traditional French onion soup, which is flavoured with whiskey and topped with tangy roquefort cheese. Want to give it a go yourself? Read on to discover the full recipe – and if you want to make it vegetarian, simply swap the chicken stock for vegetable and use a vegetarian blue cheese, such as stilton or Saint Agur.

80 March 2024 magazine.com advertisement feature

Crown Grill’s black and blue onion soup

SERVES 4 | PREP 15 MINS COOK 1 HR 30 MINS | EASY

1 tsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling

2 onions, sliced

1 tsp fresh thyme leaves

2 tbsp Jack Danielís whiskey

1 litre chicken stock

½ baguette, cut into rounds

1 garlic bulb, halved through the middle 225g roquefort cheese, crumbled

1 Heat the olive oil in a frying pan over a medium-low heat and fry the onions for around 30 mins until caramelised, stirring occasionally.

2 Add the thyme and cook for a further 2 mins, then add the whiskey and allow the alcohol to burn off before adding the stock. Leave to simmer over a medium heat for 1 hr, allowing the onions to stew and release their flavour.

3 Meanwhile, heat the oven to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 and arrange the bread slices on a large baking sheet. Rub the cut garlic over each slice, then drizzle with olive oil and bake for 5-10 mins until golden and crispy.

4 When the soup is ready, season with salt and pepper, then ladle into ovenproof bowls. Top each portion with a slice of toasted bread and a thick layer of the roquefort. Grill until the cheese is melted and lightly browned, then serve immediately.

For the first time ever, the Good Food Show is taking to the seas for a two-week culinary voyage with Princess Cruises, sailing from Southampton to Spain and Portugal. This unmissable event will see Sky Princess transformed into a food lover’s paradise, with a range of interactive workshops, tutored tastings, cocktail classes and celebrity cooking demos with the likes of John Torode, Lisa Faulkner and Gennaro Contaldo.

The ship will also visit plenty of renowned culinary destinations where you can immerse yourself in the local cuisine, from pintxos bars in the Spanish city of Bilbao to pastel de nata in Lisbon, Portugal’s capital.

To find out more and book your cruise, visit princess.com
March 2024 magazine.com 81 advertisement feature

BRIGHTEN UP YOUR GARDEN THIS SPRING

Save and style your outdoor space with these beautiful, colourful trees

LILAC SYRINGA PALIBIN

A stunning addition to your patio, this fantastic new dwarf lilac is just the thing for small gardens or for sprucing up patios and decking areas in a large pot!

• The pretty blooms arrive in May, flush through summer but reach a second crescendo of colour in September

• It’s slow growing, easy to care for and perfect for pots – very hardy, too

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• Supplied as a grafted standard tree, approximately 80-120cm tall in a three-litre pot, ready to plant Order now for just £19.99 each, saving £10, or buy two for £34.98 and save £25 – only £17.49 each.

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FLAMINGO WILLOW SALIX HAKURONISHIKI TREE

The striking Flamingo Willow tree produces a stunning spring and summer ritual, bursting forth from bare branches, often with catkins on, into a mass of amazing creamy pink variegated and tipped new shoots, set against white mottled and marbled leaves, keeping that lovely contrast all summer.

• Totally hardy, the Flamingo Willow Salix tree is a low-maintenance plant that is great to add height to gardens or in pairs in large pots for a more formal look

• Supplied as an established plant in a threelitre pot, approximately 80-90cm tall, with a shaped standard head

Order now for just £19.99 each, saving £5, or buy two for £29.98 and save £20 – only £14.99 each.

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SILVER MEDLEY ROUND PLANTER

• Plastic planter, ideal for larger single specimens or bedding plants

• Diameter 36cm (14.5in) round

• Volume of compost: 28 litres

Order now for just £11.99 or buy two for £17.98, saving £6 – only £8.99 each

Product Code: 130127

PHOTINIA RED ROBIN TREE

Little Red Robin is quite a new cultivar with smaller leaves, giving an even bolder and brighter red glow as the new leaves emerge and throughout the summer. What’s more, in this stylish lollipop form, it makes a real year-round focal point and feature, too.

• Perfect in large pots on the patio or as feature plants in a border

• Supplied as 70-80cm tall (including pot) in a three-litre pot, ready to plant out all year Order now for just £29.99 each, saving £10, or buy two for £49.98 and save £30 – only £24.99 each.

Product code: 510183

To order, call 0844 502 0050** quoting ‘O122’, or visit yougarden.com/O122, or send your contact details, address and the codes and quantities of the item(s) you wish to order, along with a cheque payable to YouGarden, to: Offer O122, YouGarden, PO Box 1468, Peterborough PE1 9XL. TERMS AND CONDITIONS *P&P is £8.99 per order. Orders despatched within five to seven days. Offer closes on 30 April 2024 or while stocks last. Offer subject to availability and, in the event that this offer is oversubscribed, we reserve the right to send suitable substitute varieties of the same or a higher value. Delivery to UK only and a £6 surcharge may apply to the following postcode areas: AB, DD8-11, GY, HS, IM, IV, JE, KA27-28, KW, PA20-80, PH19-50, TR21-25 and ZE. **Calls cost 5p per min plus your network’s access charge. Images show mature plants. Full product details and T&Cs at yougarden.com. Following Brexit there are a number of changes that prevent us from trading in N Ireland. For further details please visit yougarden.com O READER OFFER
82 March 2024 Omagazine.com Just £19.99 (RRP £29.99) plus p&p*
£19.99 (RRP £24.99) plus p&p* Just £29.99 (RRP £39.99) plus p&p*
Just
£11.99 Plus P&P*

UNWIND

Cosy rooms and comfort food at Daylesford’s latest pub with rooms, food writer Martha Collison shows us how she makes the most of her limited kitchen space, and the wellness trends worth looking out for in the year ahead

March 2024 Omagazine.com 83

KEEP AN EYE ON @Omagazine ON INSTAGRAM FOR A VIDEO TOUR OF THE BELL

BOLTHOLE

yThis Daylesford pub with rooms champions hyper-local produce and little touches of luxury

84 March 2024 Omagazine.com

What makes it unique

The newest of its stable of pubs with rooms, The Bell has all the hallmarks of a Daylesford bolthole: a commitment to local suppliers, largely British menu and cute motif (see the bell on plates, menus and staff T-shirts). The 17th-century building is home to a dozen cosy bedrooms, with a contemporary barn at the rear.

On the menu

The pub’s small, welcoming dining room serves classics like a half pint of prawns, soups, salads, cheeseburger, fish pie, sticky toffee pudding and crumbles, with locally farmed ingredients. Daily specials range from the luxurious, including a chateaubriand for two or whole roasted brill, to a simple porchetta and apple sauce bap. Beers on tap are from family-owned Hook Norton and Jeremy Clarkson’s Hawkstone, Daylesford’s own cider, gins and English sparkling wine.

Highlights

There’s more to the pub than a smart market town boozer. Discreetly positioned behind the main building, The Barn serves weekend wood-fired feasting menus – rotisserie chicken, roasts, whole lobster. In summer there’s an additional dining space in The Bell’s acre of apple orchard.

Inspiring décor

Exposed brick, embroidered bedspreads and reclaimed wooden furniture create a homely, rustic atmosphere. And four posters, red stripes, and crisp blue and white checks feel very British. From £194 per night. thebellatcharlbury.com

THREE MORE TO TRY

Looking for more ideas for a weekend away? Visit Omagazine.com.

THE MONTAGU ARMS HOTEL

Ideal for the New Forest. Open fires and wood panelling inside, and pretty kitchen gardens outside make a characterful spot. montaguarmshotel.co.uk

THE LORD CREWE ARMS

A luxury pub with rooms not far from Hadrian’s Wall. The vaulted crypt bar, rugged stone walls and roaring open fires are a very dramatic setting. lordcrewearmsblanchland.co.uk

THE SWAN INN ESHER

José Pizarro’s Spanish pub features his greatest dishes, and pub classics with a José twist. josepizarro.com

March 2024 Omagazine.com 85 unwind bolthole
PHOTOGRAPHS: NEIL WATSON

KITCHEN HAVEN

perfectly formed

Author and broadcaster Martha Collison shows us around her small but ultrafunctional space in Hove

KEEP AN EYE ON @Omagazine ON INSTAGRAM FOR A VIDEO TOUR 86 March 2024 Omagazine.com

I’m Martha Collison, a recipe creator, cookbook author and broadcaster living on the (sometimes) sunny Sussex coast. We picked Brighton and Hove as a place to make home because the food scene is electric, with more independent restaurants and cafés than you can shake a stick at. It has all the perks of being a sizeable city but with the benefit of being privy to fresh seafood – caught by fishermen and sold at the port each morning – and local produce grown and harvested across the South Downs. I live with my husband, Michael, and we are really excited to be welcoming our first baby in just a matter of weeks.

Living in a place as popular as Hove means space comes at a premium, so our kitchen is small but perfectly formed. We’ve made a few tweaks since moving in two years ago to help it work better for us – it isn’t the dream Instagram kitchen but it is beautiful in my eyes. I’m passionate about the fact that you don’t need an expensive, glossy, marble-topped kitchen to be a great chef, so even though our space is a little more humble than other kitchens, it suits our lifestyle and the size of the flat, and it’s still possible to turn out great food. There is often so much pressure to have the dreamy space we are presented with in print and online but what I love is a kitchen that’s central to day-to-day life – a place that becomes the heart of the home.

and well-loved space, so I like for items to serve real purpose as well as look stylish. I love handmade ceramics and splatterware, so have gathered a lovely little collection from antique shops and independent artists over the years.

I spend a lot of time recipe testing until I’m happy with the results, so the kitchen is as much a workspace as it is a place to relax. Even after cooking all day, I still look forward to pottering about in the evening, making a meal for Michael and I or hosting friends. I love that I can be present while entertaining, as our flat has an open-plan layout – I’m not lost when I’m cooking and can be part of the conversation.

When we moved in, the kitchen had bright red tiles, which were very dominating and didn’t create the soothing environment I love, so our first priority was to change them to something more neutral. I love the herringbone white textured tiles we opted for – they make the space feel light and bright, even in the absence of a large amount of natural light. The kitchen doesn’t have a direct window, so I also have a work station by the window of our flat where I film all my food videos and do food photography.

The essentials in our kitchen are very practical: storage and space for a big dishwasher. Small kitchens in flats are often deceptive when it comes to storage, with large appliances being hidden behind cupboards. Our previous flat only had three useable cupboards, which was a nightmare for a kitchenware hoarder like me. This kitchen has great storage for its size, and we installed a dishwasher as fast as humanly possible, as recipe testing without one is a real task.

When we were flat hunting, one non-negotiable was that we wanted an open-plan space, as I spend so much time in the kitchen devising new recipes and cooking for friends and family, and didn’t want to be tucked away in a box room at the back of a flat, as is the case in so many small properties in this area. The kitchen is U-shaped, and I have a trusty hand-painted IKEA unit nearby to store larger appliances, plus a cupboard full of cake tins. It’s a traditional shaker-style kitchen, with a wooden worktop and white herringbone tiles. It is a well-used from left White herringbone tiles bring brightness to a space lacking natural light; wooden worktops complement the traditional shaker-style kitchen

February 2024 Omagazine.com 87 unwind kitchen style March 2024 Omagazine.com 87

My favourite memory in our kitchen is probably from two years ago, when my sister-in-law was giving birth locally to my youngest niece. We had the whole family (siblings, grandparents, cousins, aunties and uncles) round our place, eagerly awaiting the news of her safe arrival. I made an enormous slow-cooked lasagne that was gobbled down and we all cheered to the news that she’d made her appearance, and then I was able to send a big portion back home with them to bless them in new parenthood.

Our kitchen is by no means my perfect kitchen, and I know we will be looking to move in the next year or so as our family grows (I’ve got my fingers crossed for an island and walk-in pantry) but it is a kitchen that has brought us so much joy. It proves that it is possible to host dinner parties, cook for family and friends and create an oasis of calm without everything needing to be perfect. Open up your home, regardless of its level of impressiveness, and you will reap the rewards of sharing food with friends old and new.

88 March 2024 Omagazine.com
clockwise from top Practical storage solutions help keep the smaller space organised; despite its size, the kitchen is still a great place for hosting friends and family

unwind kitchen style

Essential kitchen kit?

Easily my Microplane grater, closely followed by my KitchenAid cordless hand mixer, which I absolutely adore.

What’s always in your fridge?

Good cheese, chocolate (yes, chocolate in the fridge, please) and pomegranate seeds.

Is there a family dish you cook again and again?

Mac and cheese is a comfort food I can never resist (evaporated milk takes it to the next level) – I’m hoping for it to be my post-birth meal.

Give us a recipe in a sentence, maybe something you eat when you want to unwind?

Our Sunday night staple, for when proper cooking is too much: a five-minute soft-boiled egg, Marmite sourdough soldiers and a big mug of tea.

What healthy meal do you cook when you want to feed your body and soul?

I’m on the kimchi hype at the moment (gut health and all that), so Vadasz fresh kimchi fried with lots of veg, rice and egg for spicy egg fried rice.

Can you share a clever shortcut, cheat or hack that makes entertaining more effortless?

If your kitchen is on show like mine, one-pan dishes are my favourite, as they emerge from the oven looking effortless. I also love cooking rice in my Instant Pot for speed and to take the pressure off.

This year’s best food discovery?

Smash burgers – the flavour from squashing and caramelising the meat down onto the griddle is incredible.

Favourite cookbook?

Salt Fat Acid Heat by Samin Nosrat – I recommend it to anyone who wants to learn how to cook, not just what to cook.

Favourite restaurant?

A local hidden gem, Palmito in Hove. Unreal food – I selfishly don’t really want to share it here in case it becomes too popular to get a table.

Favourite travel destination?

Favourite city is Lisbon, almost for the pasteis de natas alone. Next big trip on the wishlist is Japan but I didn’t want to go while pregnant, as being able to eat the sushi and sashimi is a must.

March 2024 Omagazine.com 89
PHOTOGRAPHS: DAVID COTSWORTH. SHOOT DIRECTOR: GILLIAN MCNEILL
90 March 2024 Omagazine.com
clockwise from top left A freestanding shelf does double duty, providing extra storage and space for a makeshift cocktail bar; Martha’s collection of cookbooks and kitchenware finds a home on shelves above; recipe testing is made easier with a well-stocked (and labelled) pantry

get the look

Inspired by Martha’s kitchen?

Here’s how to create a similar look.

unwind kitchen style
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1 Smeg BLF01CRUK 50s-style retro 1.5-litre plastic jug blender, £180, shop.smeguk.com 2 John Lewis ANYDAY serving board in mango wood, £17, johnlewis.com
|
| 6
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March 2024 Omagazine.com 91 2 3 4 5
7 8 10 1 9
3 Mixer bowl-lift 5.6-litre – Artisan in pistachio, £749, kitchenaid.co.uk 4 Vintage blue and white floral ceramic cow creamer/milk jug, £6.99, ebay.co.uk 5 Microplane kitchen grater with stainless steel blades, £29.41, amazon.co.uk Sunshine blooms meal planner, £16, papier.com 7 Satin pothos (30-40cm), £16, patchplants.com 8 John Lewis Leckford striped cotton oven glove in green, £16, johnlewis.com 9 Coffee mug in burnt orange, £20, hotpottery.co.uk 10 Habitat metal and wood kitchen trolley, £110, habitat.co.uk
6

WHY WE SHOULD EAT THE RAINBOW

Find out how and why to pack your diet with phytonutrients

WHICH FOODS CONTAIN PHYTONUTRIENTS?

fruits | vegetables | nuts and seeds

beans, peas and lentils | wholegrains

herbs and spices | tea

Most people are aware that we should include more fruit and veg in our diets but variety is also important. Plant foods contain compounds called phytonutrients that contribute to their rich colour, as well as their distinct flavours.

Different foods contain varying quantities of a whole range of phytonutrients, which is why we have such diverse spectrums of colour among fresh foods. While some fruits and vegetables are a source of more than one phytonutrient, others have small quantities.

Numerous studies demonstrate the multiple benefits of colourful phytonutrients, including working as antioxidants and reducing inflammation. Simply choosing to eat a balanced and varied diet, which includes a variety of colours, is the best way to ensure that we’re receiving the full spectrum of these vital nutrients.

There are thousands of phytonutrients found in plant foods, each with a variety of unique qualities and benefits. For example:

RED Contain antioxidants such as lycopene, anthocyanins, ellagic acid and astaxanthin.

ORANGE Contain beta-carotene which is converted to vitamin A in the body, where it supports eye health and helps to make hormones.

BLUE Contain powerful antioxidants called anthocyanins, which may have a role in protecting cells from damage.

GREEN Have the pigment chlorophyll and provide a variety of nutrients. Lutein- and zeaxanthin-rich vegetables such as kale and spinach may be beneficial in preventing and slowing the progression of the eye disease age-related macular degeneration.

WHITE Rich in anthoxanthins which may have a role in supporting heart health.

Remember, even within one colour group, foods will have varying levels of phytonutrients, so it’s still important to seek variety. Some examples are:

RED Apples, tomatoes, cherries, pomegranates, watermelons, raspberries.

ORANGE Melons, carrots, peaches, sweet potatoes, bananas, pineapples.

BLUE Blueberries, grapes, aubergines, red onions, blackberries, beetroots.

GREEN Broccoli, cabbage, kale, spinach, kiwis, avocados, cucumbers, pak choi.

WHITE Cauliflowers, garlic, white beans, white onions, mushrooms.

92 March 2024 Omagazine.com
NEW SERIES

GOAT’S CHEESE AND BEETROOT CITRUS SALAD

Banish the blues with this colourful beetroot salad bursting with citrussy flavours and creamy goat’s cheese.

SERVES 6 | PREP 20 MINS COOK 5 MINS | EASY | V

6 medium beetroots (mixed colours if possible), peeled and very thinly sliced 2 oranges, peeled and segmented

1 red grapefruit, peeled and segmented

4 tbsp cider vinegar

2 tbsp caster sugar

250g pouch of ready-cooked red quinoa olive oil, for drizzling

2 Little Gem lettuces, shredded 100g brussels sprouts, finely shredded 50g cashews, roughly chopped 50g mixed seeds

1 tbsp soy sauce

2 tbsp honey

small bunch of dill, leaves picked 200g goat’s cheese, thinly sliced

DRESSING

1 orange, juiced ½ grapefruit, juiced

1 tbsp wholegrain mustard

1 tbsp honey

100ml extra-virgin olive oil

1 Put the beetroots, oranges and grapefruit segments into a large bowl, add the vinegar, sugar and some seasoning, and mix well.

2 Break up the quinoa in another bowl, drizzle with a little oil and season. Add the lettuces and sprouts. Mix together all of the dressing ingredients and some seasoning in a small jug. Heat a small, non-stick frying pan over a medium heat and toast the nuts and seeds for 1 min, then add the soy, honey and a dash of oil, and bubble for a few minutes until sticky.

3 To assemble, mix the pickled beets and fruits into the greens. Toss through the dressing and most of the dill. Tip onto a platter and top with the sticky nuts, goat’s cheese and remaining dill.

PER SERVING 588 kcals | fat 37.7G saturates 10.4G | carbs 41.9G | sugars 24.5G fibre 7.1G | protein 16.7G | salt 1.4g

Omagazine.com • For more health and wellness advice, head to Omagazine.com March 2024 Omagazine.com 93 unwind wellness

2024’s

Top health trends

HYDRATION

Trends expert April Preston shares her predictions with the O podcast, including sleep hygiene innovations and how to boost energy naturally

More people are realising that sweetened, sugary drinks have a negative impact on our health, and the drinks industry is responding with innovations. Although simple plain water is the cheapest way to keep hydrated, some people struggle to drink this in sufficient quantities, so April recommends finding something that hydrates you without the bad effects of sugar.

Kombucha – which has already been a big trend over the past few years – is evolving as it gains extra benefits and functionality. Already low in calories and sugar, make sure to look out for the ones with live bacteria which are great for gut health and, as a result, general health.

The market is inundated with waters with additional benefits – think added collagen, electrolytes and vitamins. Hydration is key to all basic human functions and for some people these boosted alternatives may serve them better if they’re not able to drink plain water.

SLEEP HYGIENE

For many people, getting a good night’s sleep is the holy grail but it’s easier said than done. April sees a huge amount happening in the tech industry around the monitoring of sleep quality from home. As a result, the trends we’re likely to see emerging will be around creating calming evening rituals to help get your night’s rest off to the best start.

There’s also greater understanding of the knock-on impact of sleep deprivation on our health, as well as how our devices – and the blue light they emit – can get in the way of a restful night of sleep. Adaptogens, a type of plant that helps our bodies adapt to stress, can help us to feel more calm at bedtime. Ashwagandha (an adaptogen) as well as magnesium can both help with improved sleep. April recommends looking out for KSM 66 if you’re going to take ashwagandha, which takes the full spectrum of active ingredients and distils it down into its most potent form.

ENERGY BOOSTERS

Here to save us from a poor night’s sleep, another trend to emerge for 2024 is caffeine but, as opposed to a hot coffee, there are chewable bars and mints available that help to boost energy throughout the day. Nootropics, which increase blood flow to the brain, support focus and enhance cognitive performance, may be another one to try. Nootropics including ginkgo biloba and ginseng have been grown for thousands of years. April says to look out for Zynamite, available in supplement form.

PERSONALISED HEALTH

Health and wellness is so different for everyone, and emergences in technology are allowing consumers to tailor health to their personal needs. April believes that the biggest macro trend to emerge over the next year will be really understanding ourselves as individuals, what works, and then being able to get advice or find products that are right for you. As opposed to the quick-fix of a caffeine pill, for example, these growing technologies aim to get to the

root of the cause in terms of understanding the complexities of our bodies.

The Oura Ring, a type of wearable technology, has greater functionality than a smart watch, making it possible to track the quality of your sleep far more accurately. In a similar vein, ZOE analyses the body’s unique gut, blood fat and blood sugar responses. The future of health is going to become highly personalised as these technologies become more readily accessible.

NUTRIENT-DENSE FOODS

Although of course the importance of our five-a-day still stands, eating a diversity of plants is increasingly understood to be just as crucial. April highlights that an emerging trend for 2024 will be ‘nutrient cramming’. That’s to say, getting the most nutrients out of our calories. One way is through eating a variety of vegetables, while another is making sure that a dish is packed with protein.

By consequence, we’ll be less inclined to eat sugar as well as processed foods with ‘empty’ calories. It will also help to create a more positive attitude to food – as opposed to looking at a plate of food and thinking about what to cut out, the focus instead will be on what can be added to boost its nutritional benefit.

HEALTHSPAN VS LIFESPAN

April believes ‘healthspan’ is a new take on an age-old problem. While lifespan is about living a long life, healthspan instead focusses on quality years of life. Most of us die from long, drawn-out conditions which are linked to the ‘four horsemen of medicine’ – coronary heart disease, diabetes, cancer or Alzheimer’s, which can develop early on in life and have a profound impact on our quality of life in the later years.

Men, for example, live on average in 16 years of poor health before they die, whereas for women it is 19 years, often due to one of those four diseases. Many of these conditions can be avoided through preventative measures and it’s never too late to start prioritising our health.

To listen to the whole conversation with April, search O podcast at Spotify, Acast, Apple or wherever you get your podcasts.

94 March 2024 Omagazine.com
PRODUCT
AT
&
AND HAS MORE THAN 30 YEARS’ EXPERIENCE IN THE FOOD WORLD, WORKING WITH BRANDS LIKE M&S AND HARRODS ON PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT AND INNOVATION. SHE IS AN EXPERT IN USING CUSTOMER AND TREND DATA TO PREDICT WHAT THE NEXT BIG THING MIGHT BE.
APRIL PRESTON IS GLOBAL
DIRECTOR
HOLLAND
BARRETT
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GROUP MANAGING DIRECTOR

Jessica Norell Neeson

CONTENT

GROUP MAGAZINES EDITOR Keith Kendrick

GROUP MANAGING EDITOR Lulu Grimes

DEPUTY MAGAZINES EDITOR Janine Ratcliffe

FOOD DIRECTOR Cassie Best

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(maternity cover), Tracey Raye

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Roast pork with hasselback potatoes

SERVES 6 | PREP 30 MINS PLUS RESTING AND OPTIONAL OVERNIGHT SALTING COOK 2 HRS 30 MINS | EASY | GF

1.75kg boneless pork belly, skin well scored in a crosshatch pattern sea salt flakes

2kg medium-sized floury potatoes (such as Maris Piper)

2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for the pork large knob of butter

1 garlic bulb, broken into cloves few thyme sprigs

150ml white wine

GREMOLATA

small bunch of curly parsley, finely chopped

potato between two wooden spoon handles, which will stop the knife going too far down.

4 Put 2 tbsp of olive oil and the butter in a large roasting tin that will fit all the potatoes and put in the oven for 3 mins to melt and get hot. Add the potatoes, garlic and thyme, and toss in the buttery oil. Sit the potatoes so they are all cut-side up and sprinkle with sea salt flakes.

5 Pat the pork belly skin with kitchen paper so it’s completely dry, then rub in a little more olive oil and sprinkle with fresh sea salt. Sit on top of the potatoes and pour the wine around. Use foil to cover the potatoes but leave the pork skin exposed to the heat of the oven.

Flambe says: “Drying off the skin and salting the skin not the meat definitely helps getting really good crackling and juicy meat.”

1 lemon, zested

1 garlic clove, finely chopped

1 If you have time, put the pork belly uncovered, skin-side up, on a large plate, sprinkle with sea salt flakes and put onto the bottom shelf of the fridge overnight. This will help dry the skin and give better crackling.

2 When you are ready to cook, take the pork out of the fridge an hour before it goes in the oven.

3 Heat the oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 3. Use a sharp knife to cut down into the potatoes at ½cm intervals but not all the way through. The easiest way to do this is to sit each

6 Cook for 1 hr 30 mins then take out the tin and remove the foil. Increase the heat to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Baste the potatoes with the pan juices then put the tin back in the oven for 45 mins-1 hr or until the potatoes are crisp and the pork skin has turned to crackling (turn up the heat for the final 10 mins to crisp it up if you need to).

7 Rest the pork and potatoes for 20 mins. Combine the parsley, lemon zest and garlic, and scatter over the gremolata before serving.

PER SERVING 896 kcals | fat 47.4G saturates 15.7G | carbs 55.7G | sugars 4.3G fibre 7.5G | protein 53.9G | salt 2.1G

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March 2024 Omagazine.com 97 best of O

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Make this spectacular roast pork belly dish for Sunday lunch, served with crispy hasselback roasties and gremolata for a splash of colour

98 March 2024 Omagazine.com RECIPE: JANINE RATCLIFFE MAGAZINE.COM
Roast pork with hasselback potatoes (recipe on p97)
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