My North - 2018 no. 04 | Oct - Dec

My North

Air Iceland Connect Magazine Nº 04 · October–December 2018 · Your free copy

Adventures across the Arctic

Eyjafjardarleirurnar, Iceland, 65° N, −7 °C, 19/01, 13:46

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Contents 06 07 08 10 12 14 16 20 22 24 26 28 30

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From our Managing Director Fly straight north through Keflavik Airport Happenings this autumn Bird’s-eye view: Flying across the Faroes Siglunes: Moroccan dining adventure Culinary treasures: Blueberry delight Magical winter’s day at Myvatn Dark Castles cloaked in white Interview: Flying and photography Fun facts for young fliers Folk high school opens in Flateyri Scaling adventures Instagrammers inspired East Iceland: Skiing, reindeer and auroras Chequered cheers in Greenland News from Air Iceland Connect On-board experience Route network and destinations Our fabulous fleet Safe travels

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PUBLISHED BY AIR ICELAND CONNECT Editor: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir (editor@airicelandconnect.is) Cover image: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson Copy editor: Sarah Dearne Translations Icelandic ↔ English: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir Contributing writers: Sigridur Asta Arnadottir, Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir, Carolyn Bain, Sarah Dearne, Svava Jonsdottir, Lisa Gail Shannen Contributing photographers: Sharon Ang, Sigurdur Astgeirsson, Agust Atlason, Max Furstenberg, Gunnar Freyr Gunnarsson, Benjamin Hardman, Bjorgvin Hilmarsson, Ursula Jaeger, Denni Karlsson, Sigmar M. Morkore, Ingi Ragnarsson, Cebastian Rosing, Arni Saeberg, Rhombie Sandoval, Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson, Asa Steinars, Josh Wood Contributing illustrator: Aron Bergmann Magnusson Advertising: airicelandconnect.com/mynorth Design: Bertrand Kirschenhofer, Jonas Unnarsson / Islenska Ad Agency Printing: Prenttaekni

The new and improved Saga Lounge at Keflavik International Airport is a place where you can put your feet up, dine in style and enjoy the picturesque views while you wait for your flight.

We look forward to welcoming you.

The Icelandair Saga Lounge is open to Economy Comfort and Saga Class passengers, Saga Silver and Saga Gold members, and certain credit card holders.

ÍSLENSKA SIA.IS ICE 85062 07/17

A HOME AWAY FROM HOME

GREETING

From our Managing Director

Fall for the dark Welcome aboard. Welcome to “Our North”.

Time flies by and therefore it’s important to enjoy each moment and discover the beauty of every day. When you wake up on an overcast autumn morning, existence may seem bleak, but if you look closely you can see that the colours sharpen in the rain: the heather glows, the moss illumes and the autumn-tinted foliage becomes brighter. Later, the first frost turns the landscape into a world of magic, making the air wonderfully crisp. At our destinations, you can experience adventures year-round; the weather is changeable and nature diverse.

Arni Gunnarsson, Air Iceland Connect Managing Director

Lake Myvatn in North Iceland is charming in summer when the sunlight bounces off the water and the birds chirp. But in winter when it freezes over and the landscape is covered in snow, the area takes on a more mysterious appearance. On page 16, you can read about a winter adventure at Myvatn, and on page 20, a snowshoeing tour in the Dimmuborgir lava field. We also take you to the East Fjords, where our journalist spends a clear winter’s day in beautiful Neskaupstadur (see page 32).

When it comes to the pleasures in life, we have plenty to offer. The road to Africa is shorter than one might suspect, for Siglunes Guesthouse in Siglufjordur, North Iceland, serves authentic Moroccan dishes (see page 12). On page 14, you can check out a different kind of recipe, highlighting Icelandic ingredients, and learn more about Icelandic food culture. Meanwhile, the people of Flateyri, in the Westfjords, are preparing the launch of a special kind of school, a folk high school inspired by the breathtaking landscapes and creative local spirit (see page 26).

My North celebrates with Hrokurinn chess club, which for 15 years has taught chess and spread joy in Greenland in cooperation with Air Iceland Connect. We accompanied its members on a recent trip to Nuuk, where they held a chess tournament and brought presents for children (read more on page 34). The club also celebrates its 20th anniversary this year.

In this magazine you’ll find interesting articles, stunning photographs, travel tips and an events calendar – all intended to inspire future travels. In October 2018, Air Iceland Connect resumed flights between Keflavik International Airport and Akureyri, which will provide travellers with easier access to North and East Iceland. With Icelandair, you can book a ticket directly to Akureyri and fly there in 50 minutes after a brief stopover in Keflavik. For more adventures, go to airicelandconnect.com.

Enjoy the wonders of life and have a wonderful journey.

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NEWS

Air Iceland Connect

Save time with online check-in A i r I c e l a n d C o n n e c t n ow offers online check-in. Go to airicelandconnect.com/check-in then enter your last name and booking confirmation number.

Keflavik-Akureyri express:

Gateway to North Iceland As of October 2018, it will be possible to book flights between Keflavik International Airport and Akureyri in North Iceland. When you’re flying in from abroad, this is the quickest way to get on with your winter adventure in a sub-Arctic paradise. Imagine this: in about one hour after boarding the plane in Keflavik you can hit the slopes in Akureyri! Hlidarfjall ski resort is open from November to May with exciting opportunities for skiers of all levels.

You can also buy a pass for Hlidarfjall and four other resorts in North Iceland all within a one-and-a-half hour’s drive from Akureyri. All kinds of tours and activities are available in this winter wonderland of a region. Outside it might be chilly, but expect a warm welcome.

Same as last winter, the route is only intended for travellers flying through Keflavik, either flying from Akureyri and catching a connecting flight for an overseas destination, or passengers travelling from abroad who plan to continue onwards to North Iceland.

It’s possible to book flights directly to Akureyri through Icelandair and fly there in only 50 minutes after a brief stopover in Keflavik. The AkureyriKefla­vik flights are available four times a week. The perfect route for northern explorers!

You can choose to have your boarding pass sent as an SMS or email. You can also download and print it, or add it to your Apple Wallet.

SMS

EMAIL

PRINT

WALLET

You can check in online at any time of day, up to 45 minutes before departure for domestic flights and 90 minutes before departure for international flights.

Note that Air Iceland Connect may need to close the online check-in for certain flights if disturbances due to weather conditions are imminent. → airicelandconnect.com

→→airicelandconnect.com, icelandair.com

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EVENTS

In Iceland and beyond

Out a nd about Exploring the north this autumn or winter? Check out our top picks for the coming months.

TEXT: Sarah Dearne

Iceland

Photo: Visit Westfjords / wesfjords.is

Photo: Ingi Ragnarsson / Austurbru

Photo: Sigurdur Astgeirsson

Isafjordur 25–29 October

East Iceland 30 October to 4 November

Reykjavik 7–10 November

Seasons are extreme in Isafjordur. Towering mountains and a latitude just outside the Arctic Circle mean that residents say bless to the sun at the end of November, maintaining a strictly long-distance relationship until its return in January. While this may sound like a daunting prospect, locals welcome the darkness, greeting it every year with the Veturnaetur (“winter nights”) town festival. Events include cosy concerts, exhibitions, buffets and more – just what’s needed to brighten the winter nights. →→ westfjords.is

DAGAR MYRKURS (DAYS OF DARKNESS)

Much like their cousins in the Westfjords, East Icelanders embrace the coming months of darkness with six days of festivities. Celebrations take place all over the region and include concerts, Halloween parties, and plenty of freshly harvested goodies. Make sure you sample the reindeer – it’s an East Iceland specialty. Local businesses also offer various specials on meals and accommodation, making this a pocket-friendly time to explore the beautiful East. →→ east.is

ICELAND AIRWAVES Celebrating its 20th year in 2018, Iceland Airwaves has come a long way since its beginnings as a “one-off” event in an aircraft hangar at Reykjavik Airport in 1999. Around 200 acts from Iceland and abroad will take over downtown Reykjavik, transforming the city into sprawling music venue. This year’s lineup includes many familiar faces, but you’re not doing Airwaves right if you don’t leave with at least one new favourite band. Don’t miss Nanook, a Greenlandic band playing Airwaves for the first time. →→ icelandairwaves.is

VETURNAETUR (WINTER NIGHTS)

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Faroe Islands

Photo: Sharon Ang

Photo: Sigmar M. Morkore

Greenland

Photo: Cebastian Rosing

Centenary celebration across Iceland 1 December

Eidi 18–21 October

Nuuk 2 August to 18 November

HEYSTFAGNADUR (AUTUMN FESTIVAL)

THE WEATHER DIARIES AT NUUK ART

CENTENARY OF ICELANDIC SOVEREIGNTY

For an authentic taste of rural Faroese life, head to Heystfagnadur in the picturesque village of Eidi. This autumn festival celebrates harvest and shepherding culture, with rustic events including a sheep market, sausage eating, a wool-winding competition, and plenty of hands-on fun for the kids, all wrapped up with a down-home country ball. The village’s surroundings are also quite spectacular, so be sure to take a wander while you’re there. A walk up Eidiskollur sea cliff with a view of sea stacks Risin og Kellingin is not to be missed. →→ facebook.com/heystfagnadur

The Weather Diaries features photo-based digital collages by artistic duo Sarah Cooper and Nina Gorfer. The pair travelled to Greenland, Iceland and the Faroe Islands to photograph fashion by 12 designers, exploring the significance of clothing in these remote nations. The result is an insightful take on the interplay between nature, culture and creativity in the West Nordic region. →→ nuukkunstmuseum.com/en

In 1918, Icelanders took their first major step towards independence, voting overwhelmingly to establish Iceland as a sovereign state after six and half centuries of Danish and Norwegian rule. The centenary is being celebrated in style all over the country (and in Denmark, too), with varied events and exhibitions taking place until the end of the year. From lectures to art shows, to concerts and science labs for kids, everyone should be able to find something of interest. Look out for the cluster of happenings on 1 December, the 100year anniversary of the treaty coming into effect. →→ fullveldi1918.is/is/english

Myvatn Region 8 December Meet the 13 Yule Lads! These friendly yet mischievous fellows invite you to join them at their home in Dimmuborgir, North Iceland, where they’ll be hosting a party and showing guests how they prepare for Christmas. A little later in the day, everyone is also invited to join them for their annual bath at the nearby Myvatn Nature Baths. This is accompanied by a charming Christmas market on the premises, an ideal opportunity to snag some handmade gifts while easing into the holiday spirit. →→ visitmyvatn.is ADVENT FESTIVAL

MUSEUM

Nuuk and other towns 13–31 December

For a g u a ra nte e d white Christm a s, Greenland is the place to be. Festivities begin on Advent (the 13th), HOYMA The Faroese have a long- when town Christmas trees go up, held tradition known as husagan- windows are brightened with stars, ga, “house walking”, where villagers and children celebrate St. Lucia’s gather around living room fireplaces day with candlelit processions. to share stories and songs in the Gifts are exchanged on the 24th, colder months. The HOYMA music and everyone attends mass to sing festival keeps the tradition alive, with carols in Greenlandic and Danish. residents of the tiny village of Gota opening their homes to host intimate New Year’s Eve is then celebrated concerts with some of the archipel- with not one but two rounds of ago’s most beloved musicians. No fireworks. The first is at 8 pm, sound systems, no light shows; just ostensibly to sync with the New pure acoustic magic. Tickets are lim- Year in Denmark, though it also ited to keep things cosy, so be sure gives sleepy little ones a chance to join in the fun. to book quickly. →→ visitgreenland.com →→ facebook.com/hoymafestival →→ gfestival.fo

Gota 20 October

CHRISTMAS AND NEW YEAR

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DESTINATION

Faroe Islands

Wild waves Tjornuvik, Faroe Islands, 62° N, 0 ° C, 02/3, 16:22

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TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir PHOTO: Benjamin Hardman

Surrounded by rough seas, the tiny Faroe Islands lie in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean. Wild waves wash upon their shores; the surf eats at their cliffs. The ocean dominates the climate, too, which is rather mild but wet and windy, and the ever-present fog cloaks the emerald islands in mystery. Sheep graze the grassy hills and fishermen head out to sea, as they have for centuries. Fisheries are the pillar of the nation’s economy but tourism is a rapidly growing industry. Visitors feel enchanted by this remote cluster of islands emerging from the waves and the 50,000 souls calling them home. Icelanders’ closest relatives are a friendly people, proud of their history and heritage. Bridges and tunnels connect the 18 islands but some can only be reached by ferry or helicopter. Wherever you go, the ocean is near. Through the ages, the islands – and the people who live there – have been shaped by the rough seas surrounding them.

Getting there: Air Iceland Connect flies directly to the Faroe Islands in partnership with Atlantic Airways three times a week from Keflavik Airport, year round. (Flights will depart from Reykjavik Airport until the end of October 2018.) → airicelandconnect.com

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From Africa to the Arctic Siglunes Restaurant in North Iceland offers a taste of Morocco.

TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir PHOTOS: Gunnar Freyr Gunnarsson

The road leads through the mountain.

On the northernmost tip of Trolla­ skagi peninsula the town of Siglufjordur nestles between steep slopes and the shore. Tourists who come to this remote place have increased in past years. They come for the ski resort, untamed nature and rich history of the former herring boom town. Now, Siglufjordur has a new and surprising attraction: an authentic Moroccan restaurant at Siglunes Guesthouse.

It’s the height of summer but the weather is gloomy and there are few

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people around. Yet it feels like the Mediterranean sun breaks through the clouds when I shake hands with Jaouad Hbib, the restaurant’s master chef. His kitchen has a scent of exotic spices. “A kitchen without spices is like a man without love,” Jaouad declares. Spicing food is a treasured skill in his family.

I enjoy the house red – the wines are specifically selected and imported from Spain – as I chat with Siglunes’s owner, Halfdan Sveinsson, about how a North African chef ended up

just south of the Arctic Circle. “I’m a ‘gourmet’ guy and track down the best restaurants when I’m travelling.”

At La Fromagerie in Essasouira he found the best food in Morocco and promptly made Jaouad, who was head chef, an offer to come work for him. The building which facilitates Siglunes Guesthouse and Restaurant was constructed as a hotel in 1934 and has been known by many names; one of the original ones was Siglunes.

A lot of the furniture was donated by townspeople; the vintage sofa in the lounge was made across the street.

CULTURE

Food

01 The author and guesthouse owner, having a chat in the vintage sofa.

02 Salmon balls in tajine.

03 Colourful spices brighten up the kitchen.

04 Jaouad Hbib holding his cheesecake.

05 The starters: pan-fried cheese and Moroccan salad with fresh cheese.

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La Fromagerie specialises in homemade cheeses and they also feature on Siglunes’s menu. Pan-fried cheese with sweet eggplant, artichokes and apples is served as a starter, along with a Moroccan salad with fresh cheese. The mains are slow cooked and served in tajine, a special earthenware pot.

Steam escapes when the lid is lifted, revealing colourful dishes: salmon balls with sweet onion and mixed spices, and lamb shank with figs and roasted almonds. Jaouad makes his magic using prime ingredients from different worlds, always including some dishes with Icelandic lamb. “It spends four months outside. It’s organic, and the meat is tender.” The

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dessert consists of orange salad with nuts, fresh mint and rose water, homemade cheeses and cheesecake with mango – fresh, savoury, sweet and filling!

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night. I snuggle up under a soft duvet and drift off into the land of dreams, where the sun never sets.

GETTING THERE:

Siglufjordur

Later in the evening, Jaouad picks some mint from the restaurant garden and makes sweet tea. He admits that he sometimes finds it difficult to live here, so close to the Arctic, because “the sun is vital to an African man”. However, he is touched by how warmly locals have welcome him. “When they have visitors, they come to the restaurant to eat,” he says with a smile.

It’s midnight and my magic carpet lands in the cold Icelandic summer

Akureyri

Reykjavik

Air Iceland Connect flies to Akureyri daily in only 35 minutes. From there it takes one hour to drive to Siglufjordur. There’s also a bus connection. Siglunes Restaurant is open Tuesdays to Sundays every month of the year apart from December and January. → airicelandconnect.com

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CULTURE

Food

Barley salad with blueberries The project Mataraudur Islands (Iceland’s Culinary Treasures) celebrates Icelandic food culture.

TEXT: Mataraudur Islands PHOTO: Ursula Jaeger

Did you know...

Mataraudur Islands hosted a competition earlier this year to find Iceland’s most beloved national dish – with a modern twist – encouraging the creative use of Icelandic ingredients. One of the entries was barley salad with blueberries by Ursula Jaeger.

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

250 g pot barley, grown in Iceland 6 dl water 1 tsp. salt 150 g spinach 125 g wild Icelandic blueberries 125 g Gradaostur blue cheese 2 tbsp. Icelandic rapeseed oil Salt and pepper

Pour the barley into a casserole filled with water, add a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Boil for 30 minutes, then leave to cool off. Rinse the spinach and blueberries, then chop the spinach and blue cheese into even pieces. Stir salt and pepper into the vegetable oil. Mix everything together and let soak for a little while before serving.

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ȫȫ

In the 17th and 18th centuries very few Icelandic homes had access to salt.

Salted meat and salted fish, staple products of Icelandic cuisine, didn’t become everyday food until the 19th century.

ȫȫ

Icelanders made up for lack of salt by lacto-fermenting meat in whey, in which it could be stored all through the winter – a special Icelandic preservation method. The whey made the meat sour in taste but also rich in vitamins and minerals.

ȫȫ

With a gradually cooling climate, grain farming was abandoned. It is believed that barley – which now grows in Iceland again – had disappeared almost entirely by the 17th century. Imported grain was scarce.

ȫȫ

Instead of bread, Icelanders ate but­tered dried fish. Skyr (fresh cheese, similar to yoghurt) was also an everyday food. The little grain available was supplemented with wild herbs like Iceland moss.

Domestic flight One way from €65 d l a n G r e e n

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A rct i c C i rc l e

Grimsey

Isafjordur

Thorshofn

40 m

in .

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n. mi 50

Akureyri

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Vopnafjordur

Egilsstadir

I C E L A N D Keflavik

REYKJAVIK

From city centre to countryside in u nd e r a n h o u r N o r t h

A t l a n t i c

O c e a n

60°

Your adventure is just a click away. Our airport is conveniently located in downtown Reykjavik, and a trip across the country that’s as quick as your average commute means that you can get started in no time.

airicelandconnect.com

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Magnetic Myvatn Exploring the molten heart of North Iceland.

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TRAVEL

North Iceland

TEXT: Lisa Gail Shannen PHOTOS: Asa Steinars

Nothing compares to the brilliance of clear cobalt-blue skies and unimpeded Arctic sunlight bouncing spectacularly off endless snowcovered mountain vistas. It’s around 2 °C above freezing (36 °F) on an early April morning when we land in Akureyri. Despite the chill, it feels like we’ve hit the weather jackpot. It’s altogether different from the outlook in Reykjavik, where the effects of springtime are well underway and the snow has all but melted. It’s a mere 35-minute flight from the capital, but the contrast is so stark it feels like we’re in a different country.

The door of the plane opens like a clam shell and as I step out onto the stairs I’m greeted by the chill of crisp, clean air clearing my head like an extra-strong mint, but also by the heat from the sun, blooming on my face like a fever. A battle of the elements is clearly underway, albeit an uncommonly quiet and pleasant one, and while I search for Asa – the photographer and my companion for the day – I’m glad I didn’t forget either my sunglasses or my thermal underwear.

vellous landmark locations lined up on our eight-hour tour of the North.

The road from Akureyri stretches north along the east side of the Eyjafjordur fjord towards the impressive Kaldbakur (“Cold Back”) mountain in the distance. The elevation is steep and the views from the windows of our Mercedes-Benz Vito are dazzling. The weather, which continues to defy the usual proverbial formula, is still glorious and pro-

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air is incredibly fresh but as still as a millpond when we pull into the popular viewing stop overlooking the town across the fjord. Framed dramatically by some of the highest peaks in the Trollaskagi peninsula, the views are truly stunning. Apart from the sound of crunching snow under our feet and the caws and croaks of nearby ravens, the stillness and hush create an almost intimate tranquillity as we take photos of the picture-postcard scene laid out before us.

Our next stop takes us to Godafoss, not just a beautiful waterfall but a legendary landmark where Icelandic history was once made. Legend has it that Thorgeir Ljosvetningagodi, a local heathen chieftain and lawspeaker at the national parliament, Al­­thingi, ceremoniously cast his collection of pagan idols into the falls in the year 1000, after determining that Iceland should adopt to Christianity.

Therefore, the waterfall is known as “Godafoss”, or “Waterfall of the Gods”.

Located just off the main road, you can hear the power of the falls before you can see them. The sound creates an effective prelude to the dramatic vision of the waterfall itself, where the frigid blue waters of the Skjalf­ andafljot river thunder into a series of terrific torrents over a semi-circular shaped chasm encrusted, for now, with giant sparkling icicles.

vides the main topic of conversation between our small party of travellers and our driver/guide, Oskar Thor, Legendary landmarks who explains that the climate here is As we wait for our tour bus my sense different from most coastal areas in of excitement builds; I’m thrilled to be Iceland, with warmer summers and back in North Iceland and in a way colder winters. We also learn that it’s I feel like I’ve come home. I lived in less windy because the town is sur- Black, white and blue Akureyri, the gorgeous northern cap- rounded by high mountains that proital of Iceland, for seven years, and I tect it from strong winds. No need for From Godafoss our journey continues can’t wait to revisit some of the mar- a windsock to prove this claim, the through the Reykjadalur valley to the

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TRAVEL

North Iceland

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gers dipped in icing sugar. The show continues at Dimmuborgir (“Dark Castles”), where I try my best not to get lost in the labyrinth of snow-laden trails winding through an extensive field of the same dark and curious lava formations, sculpted by nature into all sorts of weird and wonderful shapes. Although I didn’t lose my way, I did lose track of time A progression of impressive sights and was a little late for the next desawaits us in Myvatn, where we first tination: Grjotagja – a steamy waterstop to admire the peculiar twisted filled chasm inside a cave where an lava formations protruding from the equally steamy scene from Game lake of semi-frozen glittering blue of Thrones featuring Jon Snow and water, like giant gnarled black fin- Ygritte was filmed.

Skutustadir pseudo craters, where we make another photo stop with accompanying geological insights from our guide about why they are not real volcanic craters, but in fact the result of violent steam explosions created when hot lava flows into a body of water. They are apparently a rare phenomenon outside of Iceland.

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The molten heart of Myvatn Eruptions are far fewer in North Iceland, with the last volcanic episode taking place at Krafla in 1984. The years might have cooled the region significantly but as our next stop at Hverir (a geothermal field east of Lake Myvatn) proved, the area still beats with a feverous molten heart. When I’ve visited Hverir in the past, the steam from the hissing vents and bubbling mud pools is usually pressed by the winds in an almost-horizontal direction, rushing past you like a furious, fluffy, white

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01 View from the airplane.

02 Hverfjall crater – a famous dog-bowlshaped tephra cone, east of Myvatn.

03 Soaking up the winter sun in the pearly-blue waters of the Myvatn Nature Baths.

04 Godafoss – “Waterfall of the Gods”.

05 Enjoying a steaming hot cup of geothermal energy at Krafla Power Station.

06 Looking out across the geothermal fields.

07 Grjotagja – a hidden cave with a shimmering geothermal pool inside.

08 One of the many pseudo craters of Skutustadir at the southern shore of Lake Myvatn.

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blue appearance. As I float in the wonderfully warm water, a well of fatigue dissipates and the exertions of the day dissolve into daydreams.

I look out towards the lake and beyond, where I can see a soft pink haze slowly enfolding the Earth; I read somewhere it was called the The Myvatn Nature Baths, our final belt of Venus. I could easily stay destination, promise to cure any here until the stars come out, but aches and pains, though, and just after an hour of utter bliss, we must like its more famous counterpart in leave. I’m not too sad to go, though. I the south – The Blue Lagoon – it know I’ll visit again. The North is like contains a unique blend of miner- a powerful magnet, always pulling als, silicates and geothermal micro-­ me back. organisms, giving the water a pearly steam train. Today, because there’s not even a light breeze to play with, the copious clouds of steam are forming tremendous billowing vertical towers, which are thoroughly spellbinding to look at; at least until you get neck ache.

GETTING THERE:

Myvatn Akureyri

Reykjavik

Air Iceland Connect flies daily from Reykjavik to Akureyri in only 35 minutes. From there it takes about one hour and 15 minutes to drive to Myvatn. The tour of Myvatn was run by Akureyri travel company SBA. → airicelandconnect.com

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ACTIVITIES

Snowshoeing

Troll hunting in “Dark C ast les” A snowshoe walk through eerie lava formations.

TEXT AND PHOTO: Carolyn Bain

The name Dimmuborgir translates as “Dark Castles”, which evokes Tolkien tales and underworld yearnings. I had only ever explored the walking trails through Dimmuborgir under non-menacing midnight sun, but a winter visit to Myvatn opened up a new world of frosty activities, from semi-frozen waterfalls to lakeside aurora gazing.

The jagged black-lava pillars of Dimmuborgir are fascinating relics

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of an eruption from Threngslaborgir crater some 2,000 years ago. The opportunity to snowshoe through these eerie formations was too good to pass up, so I joined a onehour walk guided by Myvatn Activity.

The group was kitted out with snowshoes and walking poles, then we entered a monochrome world where black lava met crisp white snow and formations began to take on human characteristics – it wasn’t hard to identify troll faces in the rocks.

Our guide Ragnar pointed out the anthropomorphic shapes, schooled us in a little geology, and shared folktales from the region. It was February, and there were still remnants of the camps set up by the celebrated Yule Lads in the leadup to Christmas. Fingers and toes grew a little numb in the snowy surrounds, but a hot chocolate at nearby Vogafjos cowshed café was the perfect way to defrost.

www.slippbarinn.is

www.aurorarestaurant.is

www.satt.is

www.vox.is

www.geirismart.is

A feast for all the senses Five unique restaurants to discover, savor and treasure.

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INTERVIEW

Air Iceland Connect

The clouds and the sky

Ivar Atli in Greenland with Kulusuk in the background.

Ivar Atli Sigurjonsson is a pilot at Air Iceland Connect. He grew up in Isafjordur in the Westfjords, where as a child he climbed up a mountain and tried to reach the landing gear of the planes coming in for landing. Flying and photography are his greatest passions.

TEXT: Svava Jonsdottir PHOTO: Arni Saeberg

When did your interest in flying begin?

I was five or six when I decided to become a pilot. I grew up in Isa­ fjordur and I think I became interested when watching the planes come in for landing under the unusual circumstances there. At the time I lived at the periphery of the neighbourhood in the innermost part of the fjord and I sometimes climbed the mountain and tried to reach the landing gear. My interest developed

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through the years. I had many model planes and suspended them from the ceiling of my bedroom. I finished junior college and took the private pilot exam. I started working for Air Iceland Connect in Isafjordur and later in Reykjavik, at the check-in counter and the apron department.

I started my commercial pilot studies in the autumn of 2013, finished it in 13 months, and worked for the airline alongside my studies. Afterwards I was hired by Atlantsflug, and in the summer of 2015 I did

sightseeing flights in South Iceland.

Then I worked as a pilot for the Icelandic Coast Guard for one and a half years. I started working as a pilot for Air Iceland Connect in the spring of 2017.

What can you tell me about your job?

It is in many respects a diverse job, especially in the summer when there are many flights to Greenland.

In the winter, most flights are to

What do you portray in your photographs?

I always carry my mobile and take heaps of photos with it; I think I have around 4,000 pictures on it. I have mostly shot landscapes but lately my interest has shifted more towards portraiture. I spend a lot of my spare time browsing magazines and looking at videos on photography. I post my photos on my Instagram page: instagram.com/ivaratli, and also look at photos by others on Instagram.

You experience so much in this job – all kinds of sunsets, sunrises and the clouds. I take many photos out the window … maybe that is my photographic style. Landscapes from the air is my style. I usually try to include the clouds and the sky. I also have a GoPro camera and often set it on time-lapse and take several photos at once.

Akureyri, Egilsstadir and Isafjordur and sometimes to Greenland. It varies whether we begin in the morning or afternoon. Pilots work according to a certain schedule. On some days we fly only to one destination and on others to three. I meet up with the crew, we check the weather at the destination and the outlook for the day. Then we get everything ready for departure and takeoff.

At the destination we have half an hour to get the plane ready for the next departure.

You will soon start flying to more distant destinations.

What is coming up for you?

I’m currently going through a so-called type rating course for

a larger aircraft and will start the training for such aircraft this winter. It’s a challenging but also exciting project.

What are your hobbies?

Flying is number one and photography number two. I’m a member of the flying club Thytur and we have five fun airplanes. They can land on short runways. You have to practice it. I would like to be able to land on a beach or in the Highlands. I have the advantage of being able to combine photography and private piloting as I can take photos while flying these planes.

It’s possible to open the doors of two of them while in the air and that way take better photos.

I’m always trying something new.

I have a thing for gear; maybe that’s a hobby. I pay close attention when new things hit the market, like cameras and lenses. I’ve bought and sold all sorts of stuff and tried different types of cameras. I test what I fancy. The camera isn’t the most important thing. What’s important is knowing how to use it and knowing what you’re buying. I take photos first and foremost for myself, but it’s good if others enjoy them, too.

What is your connection to Isafjordur today, apart from flying there?

Isafjordur is always “home” but the connection has faded with the years.

A few of my relatives live there still. I don’t go there as often on holidays as I used to but will hopefully change that soon.I would like to have a house there in the future so that I can go and stay there, especially in the summer. In my opinion, Isafjordur is the most beautiful place in the country.

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EXPLORATION

For kids

The people living in Greenland are called Inuit. They are really nice people. We hope you get the chance to meet some of them.

Adventure islands of the north

Have you ever been this far north before?

If not, you have a lot of new things to discover and exciting places to explore.

TEXT: Sigridur Asta Arnadottir ILLUSTRATIONS: Aron Bergmann Magnusson DESIGN: Bertrand Kirschenhofer

G R E E N L A N D

We’ve made a fun map for all the kids on board to help them get to know Iceland and the other islands we fly to. Just ask the flight attendant if you can’t find it. See if you can spot the right places for the stickers on the map. Which island has the geysers? Do polar bears live in Iceland? And who on earth gave Greenland its name, when Iceland is so much greener?

Sometimes a chunk of ice drifts from Greenland to Iceland, bringing a curious polar bear with it. Better stay out of its path. It often hasn’t had a meal for days.

N D E L A IC

Puffins dig holes to lay their eggs in instead of a nest.

That’s kind of cosy.

Until you take a walk and your foot gets stuck in one of Iceland’s five million puffin holes, that is.

There are lots of whales around Iceland. Whales are very curious, so if you go on a whale watching trip while you’re visiting, you have a pretty good chance of seeing one.

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Eric the Red was an Icelandic Viking explorer that gave Greenland its name 1,000 years ago.

Creative guy.

FA R O E I S L A N

DS

The Worm of Lagarfljot is said to live in a big glacial river in East Iceland. It claims to be the cousin of the Loch Ness monster.

Seals like spying on people. You can often spot a seal sticking its head out of the sea when you’re on the shore. They are also very fond of taking naps on skerries. Then you can spy on them.

AKUREYRI KEFLAVIK

FROM 1 OCTOBER 2018

Choose yo ur e r u t n e v d a n w o Air Iceland Connect will be flying between Keflavik and Akureyri four times a week from 1 October. There will be flights every Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. airicelandconnect.com

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SOCIETY

Studying the t i r i p s s d r o j f t s e W

Education

At the new folk high school in Flateyri, students explore mountain landscapes and innovative learning.

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TEXT: Carolyn Bain PHOTOS: Agust Atlason

Spellbound by the raw nature – dark fjord waters ringed by sheer peaks – I was also charmed by the friendly town with spirit and a growing sense of creativity. Some locals have dubbed it “101 Flateyri” for its new-found appeal to hipsters (the name is a riff on Reykjavik’s 101 zone).

In September 2018, the country’s second folk high school opened in Flateyri (the other is in Seydisfjordur, the East Fjords) – a place that delivers welcome seclusion despite

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being only a 15-minute drive from Isafjordur, the Westfjords’ capital.

“In making choices for education and future jobs, we say that this school is a kind of lab, allowing you to test yourself under different circumstances,” Helena Jonsdottir, managing director of Lydhaskolinn a Flateyri explains. The folk high school tradition was founded in Denmark in the 19th century, with the lofty goals of fostering learning for pleasure and personal development.

Helena is a practising psychologist, who before moving to peaceful Flat­eyri spent 3.5 years working for

Doctors Without Borders in hotspots including Afghanistan and South Sudan. The local hiking, she tells me, is superb, but it’s the unique job offer that brought her here.

For now, the teaching is in Icelandic, but the plan is to accept international students next year. The single school year is divided into two 12-week semesters that draw on local resources and a spirit of Westfjords adventure, seeking inspiration from the larger-than-life landscapes and wholeheartedly committing to “learning by doing”. Most students enrol for both semesters but it’s also possible to enrol for only one.

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01 Sunset at Onundafjordur, the fjord where Flateyri is located.

02 Flateyri from above.

03 The local harbour.

04 Helena at the school building.

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Helena explains the teaching philosophy: “One study line is what we call ‘The Sea, the Mountains and You’, where students learn, by doing, how to travel through nature, how to enjoy it, how to capture it, how to harvest it, in a safe and sustainable way.” In this course, modules include agriculture, food production, nature photography, mountaineering and tourism, among other subjects.

“The other course is more of a creative study line, which we call ‘Ideas, the World and You’, where students can learn to work with their ideas, to create something out of them, and

to actually bring that to fruition,” Helena continues. This line includes, for example, creative writing, documentary making and multimedia design. The two study lines are taught simultaneously with half the class studying each course at a time.

In the second semester they swap.

So far, 32 people (aged 18 to 62) have signed up for Lydhaskolinn’s first season, boosting the town’s winter population by some 20%.

The benefits to a small town are clear: “The idea of a folk high school is to take a lot of resources from the community, and then give back,” says Helena.

GETTING THERE:

Isafjordur Flateyri

Reykjavik

Air Iceland Connect flies to Isafjordur daily in only 40 minutes. It takes 15 minutes to drive from the airport to Flateyri. Municipal buses connect Isafjordur and Flateyri. → airicelandconnect.is

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ACTIVITIES

Adventure guide

Season to taste

So, which appeals to you most?

Calm, curious or exhilarating?

TEXT: Sarah Dearne

Photo: Ragnar Th. Sigurdsson / perlan.is

Calm

If you’re visiting Iceland this autumn, you might have planned on catching culture or wandering through the wilderness. To give you some inspiration, we pick a theme and sort activities by adventure level, from keen beginner to expert explorer. This issue, we journey into glacier caves and tunnels to see what we can find.

Photo: Into the Glacier / intotheglacier.is

Curious

Photo: Bjorgvin Hilmarsson / mountainguides.is

Exhilarating

ICE CAVE AT PERLAN MUSEUM

INTO THE GLACIER AT LANGJOKULL

ICE CLIMBING ON SOLHEIMAJOKULL

In 2017, a mighty glacier tunnel opened right in the heart of Reykja­ vik. Fortunately, this was not a manifestation of climate change, but an ambitious new exhibition, the Ice Cave – the world’s first indoor “glacier”, created as part of the new Wonders of Iceland museum in Perlan. Built from 350 tonnes of ice from the Blafjoll mountain range and kept at -10 °C (14 °F), this is objectively the coolest exhibition in Iceland.

To grasp the true scope of an Icelandic glacier, journey inland to Langjokull, the country’s second largest ice sheet. Tunnels carved into the ice reveal millennia of geological history scribed in layers of ice crystals and volcanic ash. The journey over the glacier is also an adventure in its own right. For added excitement, combine your trip with a snowmobiling tour, or for James-Bond-esque drama, opt for the helicopter.

If you’re after a kick of adrenalin with your caving experience, combine it with an ice-climbing tour on Solheima­jokull. A qualified guide is a must to get you safely onto the glacier and into some of its most fascinating caves and crevasses. Unlike the excavated tunnel on Langjokull, the caves here are naturally formed by the ebb and flow of meltwater, making them a strictly seasonal treat, accessible from November to March.

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Adventure awaits

The road travels from Greenland to all around the world.

airicelandconnect.com

PHOTOGRAPHY

Competition

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Adventure by Instagram Share your northern adventure with the world, using the hashtag #mynorthadventure. A selection of photos will be published on the Air Iceland Connect website and social media channels and the cream of the crop on the pages of this magazine, too.

Please note that by using the #mynorthadventure hashtag, you are granting us permission to use your image in our magazine, website, and on our social media channels.

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01 Iceland @hollow.sun Rift.

02 Gasadalur, Faroe Islands @christianals …found this cute fella on the cliffs at Gasadalur.

03 Faroe Islands @saviourmifsud …how impressive the landscape is over there.

04 Reykjavik, Iceland @arnulfur I looked out my window and saw an eeeepic sunset.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Competition

Ilulissat, Greenland @vicsgadget

And the winner is…

Vic Kuroda (@vicsgadget on Instagram). Here is the story behind his amazing shot: “The highlight of my trip to Greenland during July this year was our daily sail trip from Disko Bay to the Ilulissat Icefjord. Every evening, the Rusarc sent our group on an amazing journey to see the beautiful glow of the midnight sun and the large glittering icebergs. It was as though I was taken to an enchanted land far, far away, one that only exists in our dreams. The weather changed quickly and every day was a unique and unforgettable experience.”

Vic wins a flight to any of Air Iceland Connect’s destinations in Iceland. Congratulations!

Do you want to participate in our photo contest?

Tag your favourite image from any of our destinations with #mynorthadventure and the winning shot will appear in the next issue of My North. Bird’s-eye view is our favourite angle. The photographer will win a flight to any of Air Iceland Connect’s destinations in Iceland.

Click away!

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TRAVEL

East Iceland

Embra ced

by Ea stfjordia n mounta ins 01

Skiing, reindeer, northern lights and spectacular scenery are the recipe for a wonderful winter adventure.

TEXT: Svava Jonsdottir PHOTOS: Visit East Iceland / east.is

I spent a peaceful winter’s day in Neskaupstadur in the East Fjords one beautiful day in January. I enjoyed walking around the friendly town, treated myself to tasty food and took in the view of the fjord and the mountains – magnificent landscapes are all around. A new tunnel now makes the secluded town more accessible.

Hikers who journey the East have plenty of marked trails to choose from in adventurous surroundings. Outside Neskaupstadur is a nature reserve which attracts visitors with its diverse

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geological formations. The reserve includes the cave Paskahellir, which can easily be reached on foot. Various companies in the area also offer guided tours: Jeep tours, reindeer safaris, northern lights hunting and more.

Many consider the Oddsskard ski resort above Neskaupstadur to be the best in the country. There are slopes for beginners and experts alike, prime facilities for snowboarders and a ski school for children. East Iceland boasts of another ski resort in Stafdalur, which is a 10-minute driving distance from Seydisfjordur.

Skiing equipment can be leased at both resorts.

There are several interesting museums in the region, which are open by agreement in the winter. The Museum House in Neskaupstadur is in fact three museums in one: Josafat Hinriksson’s Seafaring and Smithy Collection – founded by a local entrepreneur, Tryggvi Olafsson’s Art Collection – the life’s work of a celebrated local painter, and the Museum of Natural History, which was particularly fun to visit as birds appeared to fly around in their natural environment, with the accompanying sounds. Other noteworthy museums include Bustarfell, an old turf farm in Vopnafjordur, and in Faskrudsfjordur, Auroras Iceland – featuring

01 In Eskifjordur.

Photo: Rhombie Sandoval.

02 Northern lights in Modru­dalur.

Photo: Josh Wood.

03 Laugarvallalaug hot spring.

Photo: Denni Karlsson.

04 Paskahellir cave in Neskaupstadur.

Photo: Rhombie Sandoval.

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photography of dazzling northern lights – is worth a visit, as well as The French Museum, documenting the town’s French seafaring history. Petra’s Stone Collection and the local heritage museum are the main cultural attractions in Stodvarfjordur.

As the daylight dwindles, the people of the East don’t go into hibernation: the towns spring to life with winter festivals such as Dagar myrkurs (“Days of Darkness”), celebrated in early November with ghost stories, concerts, Christmas market and other events. The food scene in East Iceland is bustling with creativity and quality restaurants in almost every

04

town, highlighting local ingredients.

At this time of year, menus often feature reindeer; wild reindeer don’t roam any other region in Iceland.

After a busy day and delicious meal, a relaxing soak in one of the geothermal pools is called for. And, if you’re lucky, you might be rewarded by northern lights dancing across the starry winter sky.

DID YOU KNOW...

Two of Air Iceland Connect’s destinations are called “Thor’s harbour”, or “haven” – Thorshofn, a town in Northeast Iceland, and Torshavn, the capital of the Faroe Islands – and that there have been passengers who mixed the two up!

GETTING THERE:

Neskaupstadur Egilsstadir

Reykjavik

Air Iceland Connect flies daily to Egilsstadir, the region’s hub, in only 50 minutes. Other towns and natural wonders are within reach; it takes less than an hour to drive to Neskaupstadur. It’s also possible to get there by bus from Egilsstadir. → airicelandconnect.com

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SOCIETY

Chess

Rook moves a nd rhythm

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For 15 years chess club Hrokurinn has spread joy in Greenland.

TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir PHOTOS: Max Furstenberg

Rhythmic drumbeats and cheerful chanting by happy youngsters fill the air. I don’t understand the words, but judging by the gestures of the girls in the sealskin mittens I take it that the song has something to do with hunting. Some of the older residents of the children’s home in Uummannaq have travelled to Greenland’s capital to open the Air Iceland Connect and Hrokurinn chess festival in the Nuuk Center mall on 9 June.

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The festival begins with simultaneous chess, where Hrafn Jokulsson, chairman of Hrokurinn, plays anyone willing to accept the challenge. One of his opponents is Malik Brons, a journalism student and chairman of the local chess club. “We have about 10 members and play one time a week at the most. I always enjoy it when Hrokurinn arrives. It breathes life into the chess community,” he says.

Hrokurinn musicians keep the vibe going as people stop by and watch.

Today, Malik is defeated by Hrafn. “I made a silly mistake, but if I’m lucky, I can beat him,” he states with a shy

smile. The following day, Hrokurinn hosts a chess tournament in Nuuk Center. The winner, police officer Steffen Lynge, is rewarded with a trip to Iceland.

For 15 years members of Hrokurinn have flown to Greenland in cooperation with Air Iceland Connect to play chess with the locals and have fun. “We had concentrated on competitions for six years when we turned to youth work. After winning every gold medal available and visiting every municipality and every elementary school, it sud-

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01 One of Hrafn’s opponents in the simultaneous chess.

02 Hrafn (in the centre) with his entourage.

03 The opening act at Nuuk Center.

04 First graders pleased with their bicycle helmets.

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denly occurred to me that there was no chess culture in Greenland. Like many Icelanders, I had never visited Greenland and rarely thought of our closest neighbours and main allies in the north,” Hrafn reveals. He called the then managing director of Air Iceland Connect and asked for support to organise an event in Greenland. He received an immediate yes. “In 2003 we held a chess tournament in Qaqortoq, which was the first in Greenlandic history.” Hrokurinn and Air Iceland Connect formally renewed their cooperation by signing an agreement at Reykjavik Airport on 8 June. At the same time Hrafn officially established a charity fund for the victims of the tsunami which struck the village of Nuugatsiaq, close to Uummannaq, last year.

Since 2003, Hrokurinn has travelled to Greenland 60-70 times and visit-

ed towns across the country. Chess players of about 10 different nationalities have accompanied them and taken part in historic events, like when English grandmaster Nigel Short played Icelandic grandmaster Johann Hjartarson.

But the main focus has always been on making children happy. After the chess tournament in Nuuk Center, Hrafn and his entourage visit two elementary schools in Nuuk, bringing bicycle helmets from Icelandic transport company Eimskip and Kiwanis for first-graders. Hrafn (whose name means “raven”) presents himself by waving his hands and crowing, making the kids laugh.

They pose for the photographer with their new blue helmets, all smiles.

“We have made countless friends of all ages from all walks of life,” says Hrafn. The language barrier has never hindered communication.

“Chess is the only true international language. We play around in gibberish. It has never been a problem that no one understands anything in the beginning.”

GETTING THERE:

Nuuk Reykjavik

Air Iceland Connect flies to Nuuk from Reykjavik Airport two to three times a we e k, ye a r-ro un d, a n d to m a ny oth e r destinations in Greenland. → airicelandconnect.com

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NEWS

Air Iceland Connect

Connecting the dots There’s always something happening at Air Iceland Connect and the airline’s destinations. Here’s a roundup of some of the most newsworthy events.

TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir

“The best on-board entertainment” Air Iceland Connect’s Shared stories recently caught the attention of a Financial Times journalist travelling to Greenland. In an article in August, he praised the initiative. Placed in all seat pockets, the travel journal invites passengers to share their travel stories with other travellers using a pen and paper. In the digital age, people seem to embrace the opportunity.

The author mentions a few examples: Finnish girls who were thrilled about an unexpected adventure in Reykjavik; a Greenlandic father who left his family behind to work on a trawler in Iceland; and a heartbroken American tourist who found solace in Iceland’s wilderness.

Fast facts about Air Iceland Connect

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Some passengers simply list the highlights of their trip, like Kirsten who came to Iceland with her grandmother in September 2017: “Visited the Snaefellsjokull volcano and lava fields; Went through an ice tunnel at the Langjokull glacier; Saw the Northern Lights in Skagastrond; Went whale watching in Hauganes; Saw Godafoss and Dettifoss; Saw mud pots bubble at Namaskard.”

Others seem to use the journal as a private diary, as in this anonymous entry: “Travelling alone, to meet my secret lover. We are stealing some time, taking a trip together. Soon, I will be travelling alone again.”

Passengers not only welcome the opportunity to write their own stories but also actively share the stories of others on social media. Other media outlets have picked up the story, too, such as Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera and German aviation news website Aero Telegraph, writing that the “mini-airline has invented the best on board entertainment”.

Browse through the book in the seat pocket in front of you and share your thoughts.

9,577,921

passengers passed through airports in Iceland in 2017.

direct international flights took off from Akureyri in 2017 – a 57.7% increase from 2016.

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Air Iceland Connect offers ride to Yule Lads Iceland doesn’t have a Santa Claus but rather 13 ogre brothers called the Yule Lads, who come down from the mountains 13 days before Christmas, place a present in every well-behaving child’s shoe, then make their way back to their cave by 6 January.

The mischievous old chaps were only too happy to accept when Air Iceland Connect offered them a ride between regions. Close to Christmas, they will show up at the airport in full regalia, fool around and bring treats for kids. Unaccustomed to modern modes of transport, they may need assistance from kind-natured travellers with boarding the plane and buckling up.

This fun tradition has been upheld by Air Iceland Connect for years.

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tonnes of mail were delivered through Reykjavik Airport in 2017.

2,000 m

(6,562 ft) is the length of the single runway at Egilsstadir Airport. It lies at 23 m (75 ft) above sea level.

SERVICE

Air Iceland Connect

Shared stories We would love to hear about your travels. In the seat pocket is a journal where passengers who have sat in this seat before you have made some notes about their travel experiences. What did you discover on your trip?

Pick up a pen and share your adventures with future travellers the oldfashioned way.

Service on board Sit back, relax and enjoy your journey. The Air Iceland Connect crew will do their utmost to make your flight as pleasant and comfortable as possible. If you need anything, you can call a cabin attendant by using the call button above your seat. On all Air Iceland Connect flights, passengers receive a complimentary beverage: coffee, tea or water.

Environmental policy We recognise that our activities have an impact on the environment in terms of the use of raw materials, emissions to air and water, and waste generation, and we seek to minimise this as far as is reasonably practisable.

Air Iceland Connect is committed to operating in a sustainable and environmentally sound manner, complying with all applicable legislation, environmental standards and other relevant requirements and commitments. This policy shall apply to all activities carried out by or on behalf of Air Iceland Connect and to locations in which we operate.

Air Iceland Connect has achieved the Gold Award from Vakinn’s environmental criteria.

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DESTINATIONS

Air Iceland Connect

Hiking in the hills

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Ilulissat

60

°

Had amazing Tha i food

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Caught sight of Kulusukx an Arctic fox

Nuuk

Took a boat trip to Qaqortoq

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Narsarsuaq

Shape your adventure

N o r t h

You’ve arrived in Iceland. So why not explore the northern region a little further? Our partnerships, route network and innate curiosity mean you’re never more than a decision away from your next adventure.

→ Visit our website airicelandconnect.com and make it happen.

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60 °

A t l a n

75°

75 °

Takeoffs and touchdowns

D

The beginning and end of a terrific journey, Air Iceland Connect’s main airports are not just for passing through.

Went sailing on the world’s longest fjord

REYKJAVIK INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT In the heart of Iceland’s capital, Reykjavik Airport serves as the centre for domestic flights in Iceland. It’s located in Vatnsmyri, where aviation in Iceland began on 3 September, 1919, with the takeoff of the first airplane in the country. Scheduled flights from cle C i r launched in March Reykjavik Airport were tic A rc 1940, when Air Iceland moved its headquarters from Akureyri to Reykjavik.

Nerlerit Inaat

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a S e

d l a n n e e G r

A rc t i c C i rc l e

Isafjordur

Fabulous view from Mt. Esja

reindeer meat Torshavn

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E FARO

EGILSSTADIR 6 0 ° INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Egilsstadir International Airport serves as an alternate for Keflavik International Airport and is open 24 hours a day. Located on the banks of Lagarfljot river in Iceland’s tranquil East, the airport is just a short drive away from Hallormsstadaskogur National Forest, serene seaside towns at the foot of majestic mountains and other attractions.

Loved the gra ssroofed houses

ISAFJORDUR AIRPORT Isafjordur is the base for exploring Iceland’s Westfjords and some of the country’s most rural and isolated areas. The flight approach is an adventurous experience on its own – enjoy the thrill as you descend at the end of the majestic Isafjardardjup fjord, the view of the many smaller fjords that fork out of it and the tall mountains all around.

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t i c

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REYKJAVIK

Vopnafjordur

x D Egilsstadir Had some

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Ke avik

AKUREYRI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Located in North Iceland’s largest town, Akureyri International Airport is the gateway to the Arctic. From there, scheduled flights are offered to several locations in Iceland, including Grimsey island in the North, as well as Thorshofn and Vopnafjordur in the Northeast. International flights from Akureyri include scheduled and charter flights to Greenland. Akureyri International Airport is also the centre for ambulance and emergency flights in Iceland.

x Thorshofn

Grimsey Akureyri

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Tasted ocea n qua hog, a loca l speciality

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M

FLEET

Air Iceland Connect

n w o n k n u e h t s d r wa o T In the Age of Settlement they embarked on a journey into the unknown with their loved ones. The six Bombardier aircraft in our fleet are named after female settlers and Icelandic saga heroines. Still flying high, we uphold their legacies with pride.

Audur djupudga TF-FXA Q400

Hallgerdur langbrok TF-FXB Q400

Thorunn hyrna TF-FXI Q400

Audur djupudga (“deep-minded”) was the only woman to lead a settlement expedition to Iceland. She was considered peerless among women, provident and wise, as witnessed by her epithet. After losing her husband and only son, she sailed to Iceland along with her crew. It is said that her settlement extended across all the valleys of Breidafjordur in West Iceland. Audur was a Christian and was considered to be particularly noble and generous. She gave large estates in her settlement to her crew and made her home at the current church estate of Hvammur in Dalir.

The most infamous heroine of the Icelandic sagas was dashing, long-haired and beautiful. Extremely proud, Hall­ gerdur never took orders from anyone.

She started a feud with her neighbour Bergthora; and Hallgerdur’s husband, Gunnar, had to pay for a slap he gave her with his life. When besieged by his enemies, Gunnar begged his wife for a lock of her hair to repair his bowstring.

She refused and he was killed. But what was the source of her epithet?

One explanation is that Hallgerdur had particularly long legs (langbrok means “long pants”). Another that the original meaning of the word is “long-haired”.

Does her epithet refer to a shawl she wore over her head or shoulders? Along with her husband, Helgi magri (“the lean”), Thorunn hyrna settled in Eyjafjordur, Northeast Iceland, and was the first woman to do so. Thorunn was the sister of Audur djupudga, the most famous of all female settlers. While Thorunn and Helgi sailed into the fjord, looking for a place to build their farm, Thorunn gave birth to a daughter on a small holm in Eyjafjardara river.

Their daughter, Thorbjorg holmasol, was the first native-born resident of Eyjafjordur.

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Wind beneath our wings Q400

Q200

The Air Iceland Connect fleet comprises of three Bombardier Q400s and three Bombardier Q200s. The Bombardier Q400s are larger and 30% faster than conventional turboprop aircraft and therefore offer new opportunities.

In addition to being used for domestic flights, the Bombardier Q400s fly a steadily increasing number of passengers to Greenland. The Bombardier Q200 aircraft have certain qualities: they require a short runway (e.g., they can take off when fully-loaded from an 800 m / 2,625 ft runway), can withstand a stronger side wind than comparable aircraft and can carry more freight. The Bombardier Q200 can be specifically configured for cargo transport.

→ Read more about our fleet at airicelandconnect.com

Our extended family Air Iceland Connect is part of Icelandair Group, an Icelandic travel industry corporation. The largest corporation in Iceland, Icelandair Group is the owner and holding company of the airline Icelandair and several other travel industry companies in Iceland.

Its headquarters are at Reykjavik Airport.

ICELANDAIR GROUP SUBSIDIARIES: Air Iceland Connect FERIA (VITA Travel) Fjarvakur Icelandair Icelandair Cargo Icelandair Hotels Iceland Travel IGS, Icelandair Ground Services Loftleidir Icelandic

Arndis audga TF-FXG Q200

Thorbjorg holmasol TF-FXH Q200

Thuridur sundafyllir TF-FXK Q200

Her father was a settler in Dalir, but she wished to choose her own land. Arndis audga (“the wealthy”) settled in Hrutafjordur, Northwest Iceland. Her epithet suggests that she acquired wealth while presiding over her estate. Little is known about Arndis, as written documentation is scarce.

However, if one reads between the lines it is clear that she was a powerful woman who defied the patriarchy.

Arndis married Bjalki Blaengsson but their son Thordur became known by his matronymic surname: Arndisarson.

Thordur later appeared as a character in Kormaks Saga, a poetic love story.

The first person born in Eyjafjordur was a girl who was given the name Thorbjorg holmasol (“Islet-Sun”). It is said that she was delivered on a delta in Eyjafjardara river when her parents, settlers Thorunn hyrna and Helgi magri (“the lean”), were sailing their ship to Kristnes. There, they built a handsome farmhouse and raised the girl, who was bestowed with the most cheerful epithet in the history of Icelandic settlement. In Akureyri, the region’s first settlers are remembered in various ways; there’s a kindergarten called Holmasol after Thorbjorg.

She was known as a volva and was said to be well-versed in magic when she settled in Bolungarvik, the Westfjords. She was called “sound-filler” due to her ability to cast spells that filled every sound with herring. As thanks for her spell, each farmer in the area awarded her with a hornless ewe.

Her son was the poet Volu-Steinn Thuridarson. His father was unknown.

DID YOU KNOW...

Approximately 50,000 people live in the Faroe Islands, of whom 20,000 live on Streymoy, the island where the capital Torshavn is located.

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INFORMATION

Air Iceland Connect

Safety first

Your safety is our priority. Here are some guidelines to help ensure you have a good on and off-board travel experience.

Out in the wild When travelling in the Nordic region, be prepared for extreme weather conditions, even in the summer. Also bear in mind that the environment is fragile and that careless actions, such as off-road driving, can have irreversible consequences.

In Iceland, thousands of volunteers for the Icelandic Association for Search and Rescue (ICE-SAR) are looking out for your safety.

If you are planning a trek, please leave a copy of your itinerary at safetravel.is. Also visit the website for equipment lists, travel plans and the latest travel conditions. For all excursions, please observe these tips:

When driving, keep your full attention on the road, especially on areas where tarmac turns to gravel. Blind hills should be approached with caution. It is illegal to operate a vehicle after consuming alcohol.

On single-lane bridges, the car closer to the bridge has the right of way, but it is always wise to stop and assess the situation.

Emergency numbers Iceland and Europe: 112 North America: 911

Only take Highland roads if you have a 4x4 jeep, and make sure you have the experience necessary to operate these vehicles in tough conditions.

Roads can be quite slippery during winter, especially after frost in the early morning. All Highland roads are closed during winter.

Off-road driving is illegal.

Inside the plane Please follow our safety demonstration closely and read the instructions on the safety card in your seat pocket. Kindly follow the guidance and suggestions of the cabin crew throughout the flight. The use of mobile phones and electronic devices on flight mode is allowed gate to gate. Cabin baggage should be stored in the overhead compartments or under the seat in front of you. We recommend that you keep your seatbelt fastened for the duration of the flight. Smoking is prohibited on all Air Iceland Connect flights. That also includes vaping.

When hiking, be prepared for sudden weather changes, stick to your travel plan, and dress appropriately, with water and wind-resistant clothes, gloves and hats.

Do not get too close to cliff edges or hot springs.

When waves are big, stay far away from the sea; be especially vigilant along the south coast, which is open to the Atlantic Ocean.

If you get lost, call 112, the emergency service line.

Stay where you are and wait for rescue services to find you.

The Search and Rescue Association also offers a free emergency app, downloadable from their website safetravel.is. Your coordinates will be sent to the emergency response crews should you use the app.

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