My North - 2020 no.02 | Sept - Dec

My North

Air Iceland Connect Magazine Nº 02 · September 2020

Adventures across the Arctic

Akureyri, Iceland, 65° N, +12° C, 2/7, 11:47

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Keeping Iceland warm since 1926

3 66north.com | @66north

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Contents Bird’s-eye view: Adventure in Nuuk Diving and snorkelling with fish and birds 12 Hauganes: Having a soak and salt fish pizza 14 Recipe: Grilled salt fish 16 Interview: Anna Soley loves being outside 18 Family fun: On the trail of the Arctic fox 20 Volunteering in the Faroe Islands 24 Scaling adventures: Biking around Iceland 26 Innovation: Wasabi production in East Iceland 28 Husavik: Sea baths and nautical adventures 30 Route network and destinations 32 Our fabulous fleet 34 Map: Flying across Iceland 06 10

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PUBLISHED BY AIR ICELAND CONNECT Editor: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir (editor@airicelandconnect.is) Cover image: Ragnar Th Sigurdsson, Copy editor: Sarah Dearne Translations Icelandic ↔ English: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir Contributing writers: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir, Carolyn Bain, Sarah Dearne, Oli Finnsson, Benjamin Hardman, Brandon Presser, Lisa Gail Shannen Contributing photographers: Erlendur Bogason, Oli Finnsson, Roman Gerasymenko, Renee Hahnel, Benjamin Hardman, Kristof Massoels, Brandon Presser, Simon Prochaska, Chris Riefenberg, Arni Saeberg, Joe Shutter, Valentin & Roman, Vizualist Advertising: Ingimar Eli Hlynsson (advertisng@ icelandair.is) Design: Bertrand Kirschenhofer, Agusta Thordardottir, Jonas Unnarsson / Islenska Ad Agency

A HOME AWAY FROM HOME

The warm and cozy Saga Lounge at Keflavik International Airport is a place where you can put your feet up, dine in style and enjoy the picturesque views while you wait for your flight.

We look forward to welcoming you.

The Icelandair Saga Lounge is open to Saga Premium passengers, Saga Silver and Saga Gold members, and certain credit card holders. Guests must carry a boarding pass for a departing Icelandair flight.

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Adventure in Nuuk

Experiencing the capital and its surroundings.

TEXT AND PHOTOS: Benjamin Hardman

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TRAVEL

Greenland

Nuuk feels more like a city than I ever could have imagined.

There are cosy restaurants, a shopping mall and hotels, and it has a cultural charm that almost makes you forget you’re standing right beneath the Arctic Circle. Walking down past the church to the water’s edge, I looked out to the vast Nuuk fjord, seeing fishermen on their daily commute and a lone iceberg drifting past, another reminder of the extreme surroundings with Greenland’s inland ice cap at the end of the fjord.

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01 The colourful coastline of Greenland’s capital.

02 Nuuk is surrounded by a beautiful mountainous landscape and chain of islands.

03 Midnight sun glowing over the fjord.

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Waking up to a view over the water, I admired through my binoculars the blow of a whale on the horizon. First it was one whale, then two, then a whole pod came up to the surface.

They were swimming quite far from land, so from that moment on I knew I had to get out on the water.

Reaching the abandoned settlement of Qoornoq, I could gain a true sense of how things used to be. Extremely isolated, exposed to the elements, yet the heart remained through the sturdy colourful buildings still standing on the coastline, signifying the endurance of the Greenlanders.

It wasn’t long before I found myself aboard the Nuuk water taxi for a fjord adventure to the waters beyond Mt. Sermitsiaq. With sweeping cliffs and magnificent rocky peaks on both sides, I was left in awe of the unique terrain and had my camera pointed endlessly towards the mountains.

Heading back towards town, the sound of a waterfall echoed across the mountain walls, I could sense it was a big one. Drifting closer to the falls, mist began to fall like rain against the bright blue sky and I saw the waterfall flowing off a steep cliff straight into the ocean. It wasn’t long after that we saw a whale breach at

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the mouth of the fjord; getting up close was an unforgettable moment.

GETTING THERE:

Nuuk Reykjavík

Air Iceland Connect flies between Reykjavik and Nuuk year-round, twice a week in winter and more often in summer. → airicelandconnect.com → visitgreenland.com

MYVATN NATURE BATHS

Please book online at naturebaths.is

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TRAVEL

Diving

Suba rctic snorkel a nd scuba 01

Take the polar plunge into two of the most unique dive sites on the planet.

TEXT: Brandon Presser.

While the freshwater fissure diving at Silfra, in Thingvellir National Park, has long been heralded as Iceland’s ultimate swimming site, there are two singular experiences awaiting more intrepid travellers in the country’s North that promise to be just as memorable – if not more.

Eyjafjordur’s underwater mini-volcano “I want you to meet Stephanie. She’s mostly the reason that my wife and I split up,” Erlendur Bogason said with such steely stoicism I was only half-sure he was joking. “She’s my pet wolffish,” he added with a smirk, pointing to the long fjord out the window where she lives.

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Twenty years ago he helped discover hydrothermal conduits connecting the surface of the planet to the centre of the earth, pumping up hot water that scientists believe to be tens of thousands of years old. Today, he is the custodian of these delicate chimneys, called strytur, in Eyjafjord­ ur, taking eager divers deep below to sea to spot legions of spawning cod and mingle with Stephanie in her rock garden.

Erlendur’s outfit, the aptly named Strytan Divecentre, offers diving courses and tours from Hjalteyri, near Akureyri, North Iceland’s largest town.

And the hallmark experience is witnessing the awesome, ancient power of the strytur – imagine: As you venture deeper, the icy water begins to warm.

Over the last few years, Erlendur has also become a leading researcher of the bottom-feeding Atlantic wolffish – in Iceland they’re called stein­bitur, or “stone biters”, and don’t make for very comely girlfriends, with their snarled jowls of overgrown teeth. It’s a species that has largely eluded scientists as they tend to hide between rocky outcrops in near-freezing temperatures. Recently he discovered that his dear Stephanie was actually a Stephan…

Swimming with the fishes for the birds in Grimsey Famously the only chunk of Iceland that truly protrudes beyond the Arctic Circle, the offshore islet of Grimsey is home to a community

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01 Scuba diving around the underwater strytur.

Photo: Erlendur Bogason.

02 Floating off the shores of Grimsey.

Photo: Brandon Presser.

03 Collecting bird eggs.

Photo: Brandon Presser.

04 Stephanie the wolffish.

Photo: Erlendur Bogason.

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of hardy fisherfolk living in a timewarped version of the country from 40 years ago. Just over 5 km 2 (2 square miles) in size, the island’s huddle of wind-battered abodes is home to a human population that’s far outnumbered by its roaring colonies of kittiwakes, guillemots, puffins and terns.

Most travellers only come for the afternoon to snap selfies at the erroneously placed Arctic Circle monument. The real magic, however, happens after the day-trippers leave – especially under the infinite rays of summer sun that illuminate Iceland’s distant northern crest and give the island’s nest-riddled coves a bluegreen Caribbean tint. Arctic Trip, run

by Halla Ingolfsdottir and her family,

welcomes overnight guests to the island, teaches them about the local culture (and why every household has a chessboard), and promises one of the most unique swimming experiences on the planet – no flirty wolffish are involved – on Grimsey you snorkel with… birds.

GETTING THERE: Grímsey

Hjalteyri Akureyri

Reykjavík

Patience and perseverance are necessary virtues for a successful dive, but once you get the hang of the stillness required to float under the avian colonies, you’ll soon be sideby-side with gulls pummelling the ocean’s surface in search of small fish. Through your mask you can watch as hundreds of birds pierce the waves, swimming alongside the marine life in search of their next meal.

Air Iceland Connect offers multiple daily flights from Reykjavík’s domestic airport to Akureyri. Hjalteyri is located 20 km (12.4 miles) due north. It’s a short 45-minute hop with continuing air service on to Grimsey.

Diving is available year-round but there are fewer birds during winter. → airicelandconnect.com → strytan.is → arctictrip.is

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Salt fish and sea swimming North Icelandic village Hauganes is known for salt fish and ocean activities.

TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir PHOTOS: Joe Shutter / Promote Iceland

On a chilly summer’s day with fire in my belly, I scurry along the blacksand beach wearing my bikini. I’m not the most courageous when it comes to ocean swimming. But I was silly enough to tell my sons, three and five years old, tales from my youth: When I was a child I played on this

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very beach, jumped from the pier and swam ashore, again and again.

Naturally, they dared me to jump in the ocean and now wait and watch with anticipation from the hot tub.

I wade into the freezing water and try to ignore the shivering. Then I sit down so that only my head is sticking

out of the water, gasp, count to 10 and rush back out. That’s enough!

I get the strangest sensation when my body warms up in the hot tub.

My sons celebrate me like a hero and then start playing voyagers in search of adventure – the hot tub is in the shape of a Viking ship.

TRAVEL

North Iceland

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01 Chef Vicente hails from Spain and is schooled in cooking bacalao.

02 Baccalá Bar’s signature dish: “The Captain's Favourite”.

03 Playing explorers in the Viking ship hot tub of Hauganes.

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Activities by Eyjafjordur

Baccalá Bar & Restaurant

Hauganes is a fishing village on the western coast of Eyjafjordur fjord, approximately 30 km (18.6 miles) north of Akureyri. My family used to breed horses in the vicinity, and the beach by Hauganes was our playground. Down at the docks, local Elvar Reykjalin processes first-class salt fish at his company Ektafiskur.

Visitors can taste his produce at Baccalá Bar & Restaurant next door. Elvar also runs the campsite and hot tubs on the beach, which are very popular, especially among sea swimmers. The beach is small but faces south, unlike most other beaches by Eyjafjordur.

Many tourists come to Hauganes for whale watching, or go to neighbouring village Arskogssandur for the ferry to Hrisey island. Brewery Bruggsmidjan is based in Arskogssandur, along with the Beer Spa – where people bathe in beer while enjoying the locally brewed Kaldi.

After a refreshing dive and comfortable soak, my sons and I start feeling hungry. We order fish and chips (the cod was caught by Raggi, Elvar’s brother) and a salt fish pizza with local salt fish, marinated in garlic, tomatoes, black olives and oregano.

It may sound like a weird combination but it’s absolutely delicious. The menu highlights local meat and fish, including salt fish salad, fish soup and “The Captain’s Favourite” two pieces of bacalao extra loin with boiled potatoes, vegetables and butter sauce.

The chef is Spanish, so he can be trusted with bacalao!

Outside the restaurant is another Viking ship, this one with tables and benches for guests to enjoy their food and drinks outside in good weather, watch the whale watching boats and admire the view. I take a seat and watch my boys run along

the beach and toss stones into the sea. I can picture myself doing the same some decades earlier, playing with my brothers and cousins. Then and now, Hauganes is an adventurous place.

GETTING THERE: Hauganes

Akureyri

Reykjavik

Air Iceland Connect flies to Akureyri daily in only 40 minutes. From there it takes about half an hour to drive to Hauganes. Baccalá Bar & Restaurant is open on weekends March–May and daily May–mid-October, 10 am–10 pm. The hot tubs are open daily, year-round. → airicelandconnect.com → ektafiskur.is/en/baccalabar

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FOOD

Recipe

Grilled salt fish A simple and savoury recipe.

TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir RECIPE AND PHOTO: Ektafiskur

For centuries, the Icelandic economy was dependent on salt fish production and sales, and many fishing villages were created to accommodate the industry. For a while, Iceland’s coat of arms even featured salt fish. The production grew constantly until 1930. Most of the fish was exported to Spain and Portugal, which, in addition to Italy, remain Iceland’s most important markets for salt fish – or bacalao, as it’s known there. Even though salt fish is only a small part of today’s seafood exports, companies all around Iceland specialise in this traditional fare.

Around the Mediterranean, salt fish is served in a variety of ways, often with garlic, tomatoes and olives. In

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Iceland, it’s most commonly eaten boiled with potatoes and dark rye bread. This simple and summery recipe, among others, can be found on ektafiskur.is.

INGREDIENTS:

Four soaked salt fish steaks (200–250 g each) One head of garlic Bunch of parsley 2 dl olive oil METHOD:

Crush the garlic and mix with the olive oil in a large bowl. Chop the parsley finely and add to the mix.

Leave the fish to marinate in the oil for one to two hours. Heat up the barbecue and grill the fish for a short time at a high temperature – just until it’s cooked through.

Serve the salt fish with garlic bread and fresh salad, for example with tomatoes, finely chopped onion, leafy greens, olives and vinaigrette. A full-bodied and flavourful Spanish or Portuguese red wine is the perfect complement to the dish.

Serves four.

DID YOU KNOW… Salt fish became very popular in the Catholic countries around the Mediterranean because the church prohibited meat consumption at specific times, including on Fridays and during Lent. Fresh fish was hard to come by and the preservation method of salting and drying proved successful.

Bacalao is an important part of the cuisines in these countries and is used both for everyday food and on special occasions.

In Portugal alone, more than 1,000 bacalao recipes exist!

www.slippbarinn.is

www.aurorarestaurant.is

www.satt.is

www.vox.is

www.geirismart.is

A feast for all the senses Five unique restaurants to discover, savor and treasure.

Surge of the summit and sea Anna Soley Herbertsdottir works as a passenger service supervisor at the airport in Akureyri and ground safety officer at Icelandair. She enjoys cross-country skiing and walking in nature.

TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir PHOTO: Arni Saeberg

How many years have you worked at Air Iceland Connect and what is your position there?

I’ve worked at Air Iceland Connect for six years. I work as a passenger service supervisor, prepare load registers for departing aircraft, check in

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passengers, service cargo, respond to emails and answer the telephone.

In Akureyri we help each other out a lot and therefore it’s preferable to know how to handle most things and have the rights to perform different tasks. I sometimes have to de-ice airplanes, for example, if

there’s no one else around to do it. I’m also a ground safety officer; I’m responsible for safety on the ground. I receive notifications from staff about anything that’s out of the ordinary and register a lot of information and therefore the work is very confidential.

INTERVIEW

Air Iceland Connect

work together in unison; I work with people from all over the country.

We work closely together. Everyone wants to help each other out and everyone is kind to one another.

That’s what makes it so great.

My eight-year old son practices cross-country skiing but my older son isn’t interested. I need the outdoors and exercise to function.

You come from Dalvik, a small town in Northeast Iceland.

Can you tell us about growing up there?

I really like cooking and baking. Fortunately, I like exercising too because I eat so much! I think it’s fun to try something new, study recipes and try to make them healthier. If you read the chat between me and my friend, it’s all about “have to tried this and that?” – I can talk endlessly about food!

I have four older brothers. I’m the youngest child by far and have always been very independent. Both of my parents worked outside of home, so I often had to take care of myself, making my own lunch, often canned fish balls or Royal instant pudding. My friends all wanted to come over to have Anna’s fish balls!

I also brought the girls home with me for chocolate cake because I’ve always enjoyed baking. I spent the summers helping out at the farm Haukagil in Vatnsdalur. At 16 I moved to live by myself in Akureyri and people didn’t think anything of it, even though I was quite young.

You also trained as a skier.

You also keep busy in the kitchen.

What kind of outdoor recreation do you do in summer?

Krossanesborgir [in Akureyri] is one of my favourite places. It’s a hidden gem. Many locals don’t know how beautiful it is. I say that I’m going out for a run, but I just walk around because I’m not good at running.

I enjoy being outside in nature, up close to the cliffs and the sea, surrounded by the bustling birdlife. It’s important to remember to rejoice – not always be in a rush.

Do you like your job?

I love it. It’s fun and diverse. I used to work in a fishing lodge by Vatnsdalsá river [in Northwest Iceland] in the summer and as a massage therapist in the winter. But then I wanted to make a change and try something totally different. I’ve never regretted moving into aviation. The atmosphere is good and the workdays are never the same; it’s a job you can never get tired of. It’s also a large group of colleagues. Even though all of us aren’t in the same location we

Yes, I trained in alpine skiing and was even on the teenage national team.

But at some point I couldn’t be bothered with downhill skiing anymore.

It always took the whole day. Now I prefer cross-country skiing. It suits me better. I don’t have to go out for more than one hour at a time. I have to go outside and exercise in order to function. Akureyri is a skiing paradise. Hlidarfjall resort is fabulous and Kjarnaskogur forest is wonderful for cross-country skiing. I’ve managed to get a few people into the sport!

Is Akureyri a nice place to live?

I really like living in Akureyri. I have everything I need here. I couldn’t think of living in a bigger place because I’m such a country girl. My parents live in Dalvik and it doesn’t take long to drive there, about 30 minutes. It’s like living in different neighbourhoods in Reykjavik. I have one brother in Svarfadardalur and another in Vatnsdalur. These are my favourite places – along with Dalvik!

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ACTIVITIES

Family fun

Fanta stic Arctic foxes and where to find them

A young Arctic fox cub enjoys the sunshine in the Icelandic countryside.

Get a close encounter with Iceland’s furry-faced natives.

TEXT: Lisa Gail Shannen PHOTO: Roman Gerasymenko

Cute, fluffy and ever so curious, the amazing Arctic fox is the only mammal truly native to Iceland – it’s been roaming the vast expanses of the country since the Ice Age. There are many extraordinary things about these clever little creatures, including their bushy tails, furry paws, and incredible sense of smell. But perhaps most remarkable is their dense and downy fur, which provides excellent insulation and helps them survive the cold, harsh Icelandic winters. Masters of camouflage, their coats can also change colour with the seasons, from brown and blue-grey to snowy white, which helps them to blend in perfectly with nature.

Although they are very good at hiding and mostly make their homes in remote locations, there are a few special places in Iceland where you can get a magical close encounter.

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Reykjavik Park and Zoo in Laugardal­ ur valley is a great place to visit with the family. It has two friendly resident Arctic foxes who are often seen curled up snoozing in the grass or playing in their pen.

You can also meet Iceland’s furry-faced natives at the Arctic Fox Centre in Sudavik in the Westfjords, close to Isafjordur, which is not only a shelter for injured and orphaned foxes, but also a research centre with a fabulous exhibition.

In the Hornstrandir Nature Reserve in the Westfjords, which can be reached by boat from Isafjordur, you can observe Arctic foxes in the wild.

Because they’ve been a protected species since 1993, they’re quite friendly and not so fearful of humans.

GETTING THERE:

Isafjordur

Hornstrandir Sudavik Sudavik

Reykjavik

Air Iceland Connect flies from Reykjavik to Isafjordur daily in only 40 minutes. From there it takes approximately 20 minutes to drive to Sudavik. (Borea borea.is) and West Tours (westtours.is) offer expeditions to Hornstrandir from Isafjorður on the trail of the Arctic fox in the summer. → airicelandconnect.com → westfjords.is

Domestic flight from €67 d l a n G r e e n A rct i c

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GREENL AND Nerlerit Inaat

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Grimsey

30 min .

Isafjordur

40 m

Akureyri

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GREENL AND Ilulissat Kulusuk Nuuk Narsarsuaq

Thorshofn

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Vopnafjordur

Egilsstadir

I C E L A N D Keflavik

N o r t h

REYKJAVIK

FAROE ISL ANDS Torshavn

From city centre to countryside in under an hour A t l a n t i c

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60°

Your adventure is just a click away. Our airport is conveniently located in downtown Reykjavik, and a trip across the country that’s as quick as your average commute means that you can get started in no time. airicelandconnect.com

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Putting the Faroe Islands on the map Clever campaigns inspire more visitors to this photogenic puzzle of islands in the North Atlantic.

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TRAVEL

Faroe Islands

01 The dramatic coastline of Kalsoy. Photo: Chris Riefenberg.

02 Getting ready for maintenance work by the village of Gjogv.

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TEXT: Carolyn Bain PHOTOS: Visit Faroe Islands

The marketing of the Faroe Islands is a remarkable case study. How do you generate buzz and promote tourism to a group of 18 islands marooned in the middle of the North Atlantic Ocean halfway between Scotland and Iceland? A place where the total population numbers just 52,000?

A clever campaign inspires The ingredients for global attention are strong: breathtaking scenery and a high degree of Instagramability, a neighbour riding a popularity wave (hello Iceland), a restaurant making Michelin waves, and awareness campaigns that collect column inches around the world for their clever quirk factor.

Tired of waiting for Google to map the country, in 2016 the Faroe Islands mounted cameras to sheep to create their own version of Google Street View, and called it SheepView360. A year later, again stymied by Google, they built their own translation engine, where local volunteers live-translate words or sentences into the Faroese language.

In 2019, the Faroe Islands promoted a new initiative called “Closed for Main-

tenance – Open for Voluntourism”. The plan: for one weekend in April 2019, 10 major natural sites in the country would close to regular tourism, and on this weekend 100 volunteers from around the world would work on projects such as building or maintaining hiking paths and viewing areas.

Closed for maintenance Together with a friend, I was one of the 100 people selected from 3,000 applicants to participate in the inaugural Closed for Maintenance weekend. The arrangement included free accommodation, food and transport over the three-night maintenance period, but we were responsible for arranging our flights. From touchdown at the Faroese airport to the raucous thank-you party thrown for the volunteers, it was a delightful case of sensory overload.

After landing, there was a quick stop to expedite some paperwork (for a working visa to last the weekend, and ensure we were insured), and we were off to see some spectacular sights close to the airport on the western island of Vagar.

First stop: Gasadalur, a village that until 2006 had a connection to the outside world only via helicopter. Sitting pretty in a green valley ringed by hills, the

area’s main claim to fame is the viewpoint to Mulafossur, a waterfall that cascades over a cliff to drop 60 m (197 ft) into the sea below. It has become one of the iconic images of the Faroes.

Cameras barely pausing, we headed to the postcard-perfect hamlet of Bour for lunch. Here, turf-roofed waterfront cottages enjoy views to jagged offshore islets, and we feasted on fish soup and bubbling enthusiasm for the weekend ahead. New arrivals joined, and eventually we broke into our designated groups for the journey to our assigned projects. Some groups had miles to travel, by helicopter or boat to far-flung islands. We would regroup a couple of days later in the Faroese capital, ready to breathlessly trade war stories (which may or may not have involved ferocious winds, calloused hands and pushing rock-filled wheelbarrows up steep hills).

The Hanging Lake My group was accommodated in a hotel close to the airport, and our project location was one that brought a murmur of envy from other workers: Traelanipa, the rugged, remote cliffs at the southern end of the so-called “lake above the ocean”.

The lake itself is Sorvagsvatn; it’s the

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TRAVEL

Faroe Islands

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03 Road-trip magic on Eysturoy.

Photo: Kristof Massoels.

04 The ‘lake above the ocean’, Sorvagsvatn.

Photo: Renee Hahnel.

05 Local seafood at award-winning KOKS restaurant.

06 The scenic gorge that gives the village of Gjogv its name.

Photo: Valentin & Roman @twintheworld.

07 Infinite views at the northern tip of Kalsoy.

Photo: Simon Prochaska.

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largest in the Faroes and has many names, including Leitisvatn, Cliff Lake, and the poetic Hanging Lake – a name that makes reference to the optical illusion whereby the lake appears in photographs as though it perches high above the ocean.

It’s a hike of about 45 minutes to our worksite, where equipment is set up and a path has been marked in the turf. It’s our job to dig up the turf, cut stairs into the incline and lay stones along the new trail. We are exposed to the elements and the work is physical, but it’s hard to complain when there’s a 360-degree panorama that takes in lake, cliffs, hills and ocean. We spend two days digging turf and carting rocks. We break for a lunch of fish soup delivered by boat to the lakeshore. In surprising sunshine, we scramble to take in views of Bosdala­fossur, another waterfall dropping dramatically over cliffs into the ocean.

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After two days of muddy, windswept work, everyone scrubs up well to spend the final night of the itinerary in Torshavn, partying with the locals. Despite foggy heads, the next day a group of us hire a car and zip over majestic mountain roads and through subsea tunnels to check out other islands and popular spots such as Gjogv (a village named after a gorge that runs through it), stopping for sheep photos, astonishing roadside panoramas and curative hot dogs.

It was a remarkable weekend, and I’m thrilled to have been a guinea pig on a project designed to remind people of the risks associated with over-tourism, and the need to protect natural resources. The Faroe Islands face unique challenges to get noticed, but their equally unique efforts are paying handsome dividends, with tourism growth of around 10% per year in recent years.

I nodded in quiet understanding when Susanna Sorensen, a marketing manager at Visit Faroe Islands, recently told me that 6,000 people signed up to participate in the second iteration of Closed for Maintenance – Open for Voluntourism in 2020 (just over 100 have been selected). There are 10,000 people in the database interested in attending in 2021. Word is clearly out.

GETTING THERE:

Reykjavik Torshavn

Air Iceland Connect in collaboration with Atlantic Airways flies from Keflavik International Airport to the Faroe Islands several times a week. → airicelandconnect.com → visitfaroeislands.com

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ACTIVITIES

Adventure guide There are many ways to explore Iceland, though few are as rewarding as a perfect pedal. Biking gets you closer to nature than you’d get on four wheels – and it’s easier on your feet than hiking. Good to know: Icelandic bike companies are friendly and flexible, and many are happy to help you tweak the adventure level of your ride.

Season to taste

TEXT: Sarah Dearne PHOTO: Vizualist / Iceland Bike Farm

So, which appeals to you most?

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Calm

Curious

Exhilarating

Slow your roll in North Iceland, where you can bike, bake and bathe your way through the Myvatn region. You’ll pedal through volcanic wonders, pause to sample some geothermally baked rye bread, then suit up for a dip in the Myvatn Nature Baths. Another easy option: let an electronic bike do the heavy lifting on a lava field tour on the outskirts of Reykjavik. This is a handy option if you’re in town on a short break, with highlights including the Burfell volcanic crater and surrounding Burfellsgja canyon.

In Kirkjubaejarklaustur in the southeast, explore the Iceland Bike Farm, 101 km2 (39 square miles) of enthralling landscape with a vast network of mountain-biking trails. Opt for the cave day tour or the two-day glamping tour, both family-friendly and suitable for most active types. There are also gorgeous trails in Borgar­fjordur eystri in the East Fjords, where a local expert will help you plan a selfguided itinerary through the area’s wondrous landscape. Some say that this region has the loveliest hiking and biking trails in Iceland.

Add a bird’s-eye perspective to your journey with a heli-biking tour, departing from the capital region.

Your helicopter pilot will chaperone you over colourful lava fields to a dormant volcano, where you’ll start your descent through thrilling geothermal landscape. There’s also a multi-day tour, travelling through the rugged and spectacular Highlands (available during eight weeks of summer only). These tours are aimed at skilled riders with plenty of stamina, but casual cyclists can also find chopper transport to suit.

Ready.

Offset. Go! All Orkan operations are carbon offset Orkan and the Wetland Fund have signed a threeyear agreement on the carbon offsetting of all of Orkan’s operations. In this way, we shoulder our social responsibility and systematically reduce our carbon footprint.

Last year, Orkan opened two hydrogen service stations, at Vesturlandsvegur and in Reykjanesbær.

This year, a new multi-fuel-station was added on

Miklubraut that has methane gas, electricity and hydrogen available.

Through carbon offsetting and an increased supply of renewable energy sources, we are contributing to an improved environmental culture in line with our updated priority: to be an energy company of the future.

Customers can now also carbon offset their fuel purchases:

Key and card holders register at the pump or on orkan.is

7 ISK discount per litre goes towards carbon offsets

More information about the project can be found at orkan.is.

The Wetland Fund equals your carbon offsetting contribution

INNOVATION

Horticulture

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01 Wasabi giftbox, available online.

02 Freshly harvested wasabi.

Icela nd’s wasabi region 01

Two childhood friends are growing wasabi plants in a high-tech greenhouse in East Iceland.

TEXT: Oli Finnsson PHOTOS: Nordic Wasabi

“The original idea came to us after a course in innovation at the University of Iceland. We wanted to use Iceland’s natural resources to create an export product,” says Johan Sindri Hansen.

He and his childhood friend Ragnar Atli Tomasson grow wasabi in a hightech greenhouse in Egilsstadir, East Iceland, under the brand name Nordic Wasabi. Sindri, as he’s called, explains that few people eat authentic wasabi but rather a substitute of horseradish, mustard and food colouring. “After completing our studies we founded the company, found investors and started growing. We wanted to offer true wasabi, because it’s kind of like steak compared to sausagemeat.”

Wasabi originates from Japan where it grows naturally in mountainous regions along riverbanks, sheltered by tall trees. So cultivating wasabi in different climates is quite the chal-

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lenge. After planting, it can take up to 18 months until it can be harvested.

“The plant has not been domesticated much, unlike tomatoes and cucumbers, which have been cultivated for at least 200–300 years. We therefore have to imitate its natural environment, which is the hardest part,” Sindri explains.

According to a Japanese tradition, the stalk – which has a natural green colour – is grated on shark skin shortly before it’s served. The flavour starts fading approximately 20 minutes after the stalk has been turned to mush.

The strong flavour certainly comes through, but then the heat becomes less dominant, leaving behind mild and earthy tones.

East Icelandic caterers have welcomed the new “local” herb. At Lake Hotel Egilsstadir I tasted wasabi ice cream, which may be considered an odd combination but something everyone should try. Austri Brew-

ery makes a double IPA brewed with wasabi leaves, and the chefs at Nord Austur in Seydisfjordur and the bistro at Vok Baths serve fresh wasabi with their sushi. “Our future goal is to be leading in the export and sale of wasabi in Europe and North America and to make Egilsstadir the European wasabi capital. We could even rename it Wasabi-stadir!” Sindri jokes.

GETTING THERE:

Seydisfjordur

Egilsstadir

Reykjavik

Air Iceland Connect flies to Egilsstadir daily in only 50 minutes. Vok Baths and Bistro are on the banks of Urridavatn lake within 10 minutes’ driving distance from the town, and Seydisfjordur is 30 minutes away by car. Nord Austur is closed in the winter. → airicelandconnect.com → nordicwasabi.com

Advennttuurree awwaaiitts Anchorage Anchorage

Vancouver Vancouver Seattle Seattle Portland Portland San Francisco San Francisco Edmonton Edmonton

Denver Ilulissat Ilulissat

Minneapolis / St. Paul Minneapolis / St. Paul Kansas City Kansas City Chicago Chicago Cleveland Toronto Toronto Montreal Montreal

Nuuk Nuuk

Narsarsuaq Narsarsuaq

NerleritInaat Inaat Nerlerit Helsinki Helsinki

Kulusuk Kulusuk

Akureyri Akureyri KEFLAVIK REYKJAVIK REYKJAVIK

Baltimore Washington D.C. New York Washington D.C. New York Philadelphia Philadelphia Boston Tampa Boston Halifax Orlando Orlando

Torshavn Torshavn

Oslo Oslo Bergen Bergen

Copenhagen Copenhagen Billund Billund Hamburg Hamburg Berlin Glasgow AmsterdamBerlin Glasgow Amsterdam Dusseldorf Dusseldorf Frankfurt Manchester Dublin Manchester Frankfurt Dublin Brussels Munich Munich LondonBrussels London Zurich Zurich Paris Paris Milan Geneva Milan Geneva

Barcelona Madrid Madrid

The road travels from Greenland to all around the world.

airicelandconnect.com

Stockholm Stockholm

Magical moment

by Sk jalfandi bay

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Whale watching and GeoSea sea baths are two of the reasons tourists flock to Husavik.

TEXT: Eyglo Svala Arnarsdottir PHOTOS: Joe Shutter / Promote Iceland

It’s almost midnight. The steam that rises from the baths creates a mysterious atmosphere. Bathers glide slowly through the water or chat by the poolside. An American couple curiously observes the yellow lighthouse by the end of the pools, while a local couple toasts with beer, looking very much in love. Quite a few are admiring the amazing view from Husavikurhofdi cape across

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Skjalfandi bay on this bright summer night. Way below, a small boat creates white stripes in the dark blue ocean surface. Everyone is relaxing and enjoying the magical moment.

GeoSea sea baths Husavik’s latest attraction, GeoSea sea baths, has proven popular among locals and visitors since opening in the summer of 2018. The water comes from two holes that were drilled in search of geothermal

water for heating in the mid-20th century. Unfortunately, the water – a mixture of spring water and geothermally heated sea – was too rich in minerals for heating houses.

However, it was perfect for bathing and proved to have a healing effect on various skin diseases. An old cheese-making tub was therefore placed by one of the boreholes on top of Husavikurhofdi and used for bathing until GeoSea opened.

Designed by BASALT Architects, the sea baths blend into the sur-

TRAVEL

North Iceland

01 The light plays with the waves on Skjalfandi.

02 GeoSea sea baths are perched on Husavikurhofdi, offering a spectacular view of the bay.

03 A meal of traditional saltfish with a twist at Salka Restaurant.

04 Curious tools on display at Husavik Museum.

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roundings, so seamlessly that from a certain angle one cannot tell where the baths end and the bay begins.

Bathers can order locally brewed beers and other drinks to enjoy while soaking and watching out for whales in the bay below.

Tourist haven Husavik Skjalfandi is famous for its diverse marine life and many species of whale that feed in the bay. The undisputed “Whale Watching Capital of Iceland” – or even Europe, the town’s four whale watching companies take approximately 1,000 peo-

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ple on tours per day from April to October. In the summer, the town is bustling with local fishermen landing their catch as tourists board whale watching boats. They also visit the town’s museums, such as the Whale Museum with its 22-m (72-ft.) long blue whale skeleton, and Husavik Museum, to learn about the harsh realities of the fishermen of yore.

The cafés and restaurants feature fish and other local treats. In good weather, it’s especially enjoyable to sit outside restaurant Salka, located in the old merchant’s buildings down by the harbour, and take in the lively atmosphere over lunch.

GETTING THERE: Husavik Akureyri

Reykjavik

Air Iceland Connect flies to Akureyri daily in only 40 minutes. From there it takes about one hour to drive to Husavik through the Vadlaheidagong tunnel. Husavik is a destination on two known tourist routes: the Arctic Coast Way and the Diamond Circle. → airicelandconnect.com → visithusavik.com

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DESTINATIONS

Air Iceland Connect

The ice fjord has tha wed!

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Ilulissat

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Joined a wilderness run

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Nuuk

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Kulusuk

Went hiking in lush valleys

Unforgettable kayak tour

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Narsarsuaq

Shape your adventure

N o r t h

You’ve arrived in Iceland. So why not explore the northern region a little further? Our partnerships, route network and innate curiosity mean you’re never more than a decision away from your next adventure.

→ Visit our website airicelandconnect.com and make it happen.

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60 °

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Takeoffs and touchdowns

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The beginning and end of a terrific journey, Air Iceland Connect’s main airports are not just for passing through.

REYKJAVIK INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT In the heart of Iceland’s capital, Reykjavik Airport serves as the centre for domestic flights in Iceland. It’s located in Vatnsmyri, where aviation in Iceland began on 3 September, 1919, with the takeoff of the first airplane in the country. Scheduled flights from cle C i r launched in March Reykjavik Airport were tic A rc 1940, when Air Iceland moved its headquarters from Akureyri to Reykjavik.

Nerlerit Inaat

x Wondrous wildlife

d l a n n e e G r

a S e

Celebrated the summer solstice Went berry picking Grimseyx Amazed by the gannets Isafjordur x Thorshofn Visited an old x Akureyri Vopnafjordur turf farm x

AKUREYRI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Located in North Iceland’s largest town, Akureyri International Airport is the gateway to the Arctic. From there, scheduled flights are offered to several locations in Iceland, including Grimsey island in the North, as well as Thorshofn and Vopnafjordur in the Northeast. International flights from Akureyri include scheduled and charter flights to Greenland. Akureyri International Airport is also the centre for ambulance and emergency flights in Iceland.

A rc t i c C i rc l e

Cyc led through the lava

Wa lked in a forest

Torshavn

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EGILSSTADIR 6 0 ° INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Egilsstadir International Airport serves as an alternate for Keflavik International Airport and is open 24 hours a day. Located on the banks of Lagarfljot river in Iceland’s tranquil East, the airport is just a short drive away from Hallormsstadaskogur National Forest, serene seaside towns at the foot of majestic mountains and other attractions.

Had fun at Olafsoka

ISAFJORDUR AIRPORT Isafjordur is the base for exploring Iceland’s Westfjords and some of the country’s most rural and isolated areas. The flight approach is an adventurous experience on its own – enjoy the thrill as you descend at the end of the majestic Isafjardardjup fjord, the view of the many smaller fjords that fork out of it and the tall mountains all around.

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M

FLEET

Air Iceland Connect

Towards the

In the Age of Settlement they embarked on a journey into the unknown with their loved ones. The five Bombardier aircraft in our fleet are named after female settlers and Icelandic saga heroines. Still flying high, we uphold their legacies with pride.

Audur djupudga TF-FXA Q400

Thorunn hyrna TF-FXI Q400

Arndis audga TF-FXG Q200

Audur djupudga (“deep-minded”) was the only woman to lead a settlement expedition to Iceland. She was considered peerless among women, provident and wise, as witnessed by her epithet. After losing her husband and only son, she sailed to Iceland along with her crew. It is said that her settlement extended across all the valleys of Breidafjordur in West Iceland. Audur was a Christian and was considered to be particularly noble and generous. She gave large estates in her settlement to her crew and made her home at the current church estate of Hvammur in Dalir.

Does her epithet refer to a shawl she wore over her head or shoulders? Along with her husband, Helgi magri (“the lean”), Thorunn hyrna settled in Eyjafjordur, Northeast Iceland, and was the first woman to do so. Thorunn was the sister of Audur djupudga, the most famous of all female settlers. While Thorunn and Helgi sailed into the fjord, looking for a place to build their farm, Thorunn gave birth to a daughter on a small holm in Eyjafjardara river.

Their daughter, Thorbjorg holmasol, was the first native-born resident of Eyjafjordur.

Her father was a settler in Dalir, but she wished to choose her own land. Arndis audga (“the wealthy”) settled in Hrutafjordur, Northwest Iceland. Her epithet suggests that she acquired wealth while presiding over her estate. Little is known about Arndis, as written documentation is scarce.

However, if one reads between the lines it is clear that she was a powerful woman who defied the patriarchy.

Arndis married Bjalki Blaengsson but their son Thordur became known by his matronymic surname: Arndisarson.

Thordur later appeared as a character in Kormaks Saga, a poetic love story.

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unknown

Wind beneath our wings Q400

Q200 The Air Iceland Connect fleet comprises of two Bombardier Q400s and three Bombardier Q200s. The Bombardier Q400s are larger and 30% faster than conventional turboprop aircraft and therefore offer new opportunities. In addition to being used for domestic flights, the Bombardier Q400s fly a steadily increasing number of passengers to Greenland.

The Bombardier Q200 aircraft have certain qualities: they require a short runway (e.g., they can take off when fully-loaded from an 800 m / 2,625 ft runway), can withstand a stronger side wind than comparable aircraft and can carry more freight. The Bombardier Q200 can be specifically configured for cargo transport.

→ Read more about our fleet at airicelandconnect.com

Thorbjorg holmasol TF-FXH Q200

Thuridur sundafyllir TF-FXK Q200

The first person born in Eyjafjordur was a girl who was given the name Thorbjorg holmasol (“Islet-Sun”). It is said that she was delivered on a delta in Eyjafjardara river when her parents, settlers Thorunn hyrna and Helgi magri (“the lean”), were sailing their ship to Kristnes. There, they built a handsome farmhouse and raised the girl, who was bestowed with the most cheerful epithet in the history of Icelandic settlement.

In Akureyri, the region’s first settlers are remembered in various ways; there’s a kindergarten called Holmasol after Thorbjorg.

She was known as a volva and was said to be well-versed in magic when she settled in Bolungarvik, the Westfjords. She was called “sound-filler” due to her ability to cast spells that filled every sound with herring. As thanks for her spell, each farmer in the area awarded her with a hornless ewe.

Her son was the poet Volu-Steinn Thuridarson. His father was unknown.

DID YOU KNOW...

Kaffemik is a Greenlandic celebration of childbirth, birthdays, first days of school, and other notable events. The hosts invite family, friends and neighbours over for coffee and heaps of cakes, and sometimes soup, seal and reindeer meat.

Our extended family Air Iceland Connect is part of Icelandair Group, an Icelandic travel industry corporation. The largest corporation in Iceland, Icelandair Group is the owner and holding company of the airline Icelandair and several other travel industry companies in Iceland.

Its headquarters are at Reykjavik Airport.

ICELANDAIR GROUP SUBSIDIARIES: Air Iceland Connect FERIA (VITA Travel) Fjarvakur Icelandair Icelandair Cargo Icelandair Hotels Iceland Travel IGS, Icelandair Ground Services Loftleidir Icelandic

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