I amsterdam Magazine autumn 2018

Eat & shop Coffee & cake Best beer bars Chic shopping

What’s on

Unseen Photo Fair Amsterdam Dance Event Fashion Week

Around town West is best Haarlem, city of culture VR experience

Magazine | The Autumn Issue 2018

It’s not just our World Business Class seats that set us apart

Let’s Dance

It’s our caring crew She is just admiring Mr Johnson’s new grandson after serving him a night snack.

Although Mr Johnson is enjoying the comfort of his full-flat seat, tonight the joy of a newborn keeps him awake. We guess nothing will make Mr Johnson happier. But if there’s anything we can do for him, we are more than happy to - klm.com

Made by Amsterdam Marketing

This autumn, join the world’s biggest dance event

Have a nice stay

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Vincent van Gogh, Self-Portrait with Grey Felt Hat, 1887, Van Gogh Museum, Amsterdam (Vincent van Gogh Foundation)

Top 5 Amsterdam Gifts 3 2

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1. EAU D’AMSTERDAM Eau d’Amsterdam, the first ever ‘green’ city perfume. The perfect gift for both men and women. €58

2. STADSPLANK Own a real piece of the city with a Stadsplank, a chopping board made with wood from an actual tree felled in Amsterdam. €35–56

3. FOOOTY FOLDABLE BALL Amsterdam-designed, the Foooty is a foldable, flexible ball made for rugby, football, frisbee and juggling. Sold in packs of flat interlocking parts. €12.95

4. SPECIALTY BEERS

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Our beer brands are loved all over the world, and this gift set of six specialty beers enables you to sample a few of them. €17.50

5. EL JEFE SALSA Foodies love the unusual combination of two cultures with this line of Dutchmade Mexican-style salsa, mixed up and bottled right in Amsterdam. €5.75

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I amsterdam Store IJhal, Central Station

Central Station main entrance

Contents 5

WELCOME TO AMSTERDAM

06 ADE GET YOUR DANCING SHOES ON

The best sounding, most energetic event of the autumn takes place right here, from 17–21 October.

13 Your Trip MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR STAY

Whether you’re in Amsterdam for 12 hours or a week, we’ve got the perfect itineraries for your trip.

19 Eat, Drink & Shop TIME TO INDULGE

Autumn is the perfect time for coffee and cake, craft beer or chocolate – not to mention the rest of this season’s picks.

35 What’s On CULTURE VULTURE

From Unseen Photo Fair to Amsterdam Fringe Festival, autumn is cultural season in the city.

53 City Guide EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

This season’s feature is West, where multicultural meets culinary. Plus, the best places to visit throughout the city.

63 Day Trips DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Autumn is prime time to escape the big city and take a day trip to historic Haarlem.

E

lectronic Dance Music once used to be the realm of a pale, nerdy crowd, who’d meet for a clandestine rave in some post-industrial venue. Those days are long gone; dance music has become a mainstream genre. One in which the Netherlands, home of big names such as Martin Garrix, Armin van Buuren and Hardwell, has taken a central role. At the Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE) – the biggest of its kind in the world – deals are made in an industry that in the Netherlands alone is worth over €600 million. And the good news for music lovers is that ADE is not just a deal-making machine, but also the largest electronic music event – with over 2,500 artists performing at 140 locations across town. If you’re reading this, chances are you’re one of the 400,000 music fans who’ve come for ADE, in which case our feature article (pages 6-11) should be a good introduction.

If you’re not, don’t worry. Amsterdam has a festival for every taste even in the darker days. Photography fans should not miss Unseen, which has grown into one of the world’s major photo fairs in just a few years. For film lovers, there’s the long-standing InternaFor more information about tional Documentary Festival Amsterdam, Amsterdam (IDFA), arguably visit our website: the world’s leading festival in iamsterdam.com its field. Classical music lovers are treated to the world-class Cello Biennale. Look for details in our 17-page What’s On section. The year ends with a festival that you cannot possibly miss. The Amsterdam Light Festival turns much of the city into an open-air museum of gorgeous light sculptures for almost two months. Enjoy.

FOR PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND MAP, SEE PAGE 78 V I S I T I A M ST E R DA M.CO M

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine

Autumn 6 | TEXT: CHRISTIAAN DE WIT

Mary Go Wild’s basement raves at the Zeedijk are hugely popular – the best of the banging Dutch underground takes over the decks.

Amsterdam Dance Event Immerse yourself in the kaleidoscopic world of dance music at Amsterdam’s most energetic autumn event from 17–21 October.

I

© JORIS RAAIJMAN

t’s tulips, cheese and dance music – even the prime minister of the Dutch conservative party knows that the latter product is as important for the Dutch economy as the first and second. Electronic dance music has a long history in the Netherlands. The heydays of gabba (locally also known as hardcore) in the mid-90s were the first period when the spotlight shone on the Netherlands. The second wave happened when trance music got a little out of hand in the Netherlands with big stars Tiësto, Armin van Buuren and Ferry Corsten making pop-star kind of money across the globe. A few seasons later, Dutch big room and EDM producers such as Hardwell, Afrojack and Martin Garrix matched the success of the

trance celebrities who were in some cases their teachers.

The history of ADE

Electronic festival and industry conference Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE) has facilitated the development of the dance music industry in the Netherlands from a relatively early stage in the lifecycle of the sector. Even if dance music as an industry was already pretty big in 1995 – when the first edition of ADE took place – major record labels almost entirely neglected what was happening no longer just in clubs and raves but also in record stores, where dance CDs were sold by the millions. Whether out of fear or laziness, the likes of Universal, Sony and Warner were only interested in

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‘2,200 artists perform in 115 venues of every imaginable size’

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Autumn 8 | AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT

three-minute long songs with a verse and chorus structure. Clearly, there was a desire among dance music industry professionals to exchange ideas, collaborate and cut deals in a face-to-face setting.

Gradually over the years, ADE became the place to be not only for record labels, but also for people in events, DJ equipment and production gear, and for DJs and artists to showcase themselves to the industry as well as the biggest crowd of dance music fans anywhere in the world.

Whilst the festival component of ADE’s first edition in 1995 was very ambitious already, with parties happening at iconic city centre venues like Paradiso, Melkweg and Escape, the festival has since grown to become the largest club-based festival in the world. No less than 400,000 ravers give the city a real 24/7 feel over the course of the event’s five days. With 2,200 artists performing in 115 venues of every imaginable size – from 50 capacity bar-like clubs such as

Cafe Belgique to the Ziggo Dome which holds 17,000 clubbers – the energy can be felt all across the city.

Artists, big and small

With so many key industry people in town during ADE, artists across a wide variety of dance music sub-genres make sure to be present as key decisions concerning their careers are likely to be taken every autumn in Amsterdam. So even if Detroit techno innovator Derrick May isn’t likely to dig Axwell /\ Ingrosso – he may not have heard of the Swedish megastars for all we know – he does feature alongside them on ADE 2018’s bill. And, when visiting Amsterdam during ADE, you’ll find that there’s no need to panic when two of your favourite DJs play at different venues during the same time slot.

Most DJs make the most of it when they’re here, so exclusivity deals (where DJs agree to play a city just once over a given period) are not as widespread as they usually are.

ADE provides an amazing opportunity for

dance music fans to see lots of DJs over a relatively short amount of time. And as the events are just a short drive or even bike ride away (yes, celebrities ride bicycles in this country!) for most famous Dutch house, techno and EDM producers, you can be sure to catch a wide range of them during the five-day event.

The 2018 line-up

Among the confirmed top Dutch artists so far is former Club Trouw resident Job Jobse. You can spot a Job Jobse set from a mile away, as he continually crosses musical boundaries (including ones nobody else dared cross before). So he’ll switch between 90s rave classics, previously uncool trance anthems, and forgotten vocal electronic pop music that came out when he was still a toddler.

One of the best things about Jobse is that he generally performs his duties with a big smile on his face.

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The ADE Card

INSIDER TIP

‘ADE by Day offers an alternative to the clubbing.

Check out the cultural programme at BAUT, with themes exploring escapism on Wednesday. Or the Jameszoo’s quartet at the Concertgebouw .’

DJ Hellie Berry (30), one of the driving forces behind female centred multidisciplinary clubbing concept Voortouw

ADE University For the seventh year running, ADE provides a course for 200 Dutch and international students who aspire to be core members of the creative industry elite’s next generation. For those who are lucky enough to enrol, selected panels, office visits to record labels, and ADE site explorations await you. Tickets are just €15 but limited, so apply on the ADE website ASAP if you’re interested.

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One of the great things about electronic music these days is that it’s sort of democratic; anyone can potentially make the biggest tunes in his or her bedroom. With the ADE Card – which is available for just €15 – beginners in the scene get free entry to the Sound Lab events where you can pitch your tracks to the world’s best producers and hear your heroes speak about their careers or new developments in the scene.

400,000 ‘No less than 400,000 ravers give the city a real 24/7 vibe over the course of the event's five days.’

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INSIDER TIP

© TOM DOMS

‘Treat it with love, treat it with respect, treat it how you would treat your own, and let I Amsterdam become We Amsterdam as we try to be an example for inclusivity around the world.’

Shamiro van der Geld (34), Night Mayor of Amsterdam

Dance-Onomics

© MARK RICHTER

In both 2002 and 2012, a group of consultants wrote a report, Dance-Onomics, containing a general assessment of the dance music industry, an identification of growth areas and general recommendations. With 7,000 full-time jobs and €586 million in direct financial flows back in 2012, the industry was already massive six years ago. God only knows what the numbers will be like in 2022.

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Autumn 10 | AMSTERDAM DANCE EVENT

TOP

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EV EN TS

ORBITAL, FRIDAY 19 OCTOBER, PARADISO, 7.30 PM. A very rare performance by the ambient-rave siblings who grew up just outside London’s Orbital motorway.

Orbital

AWAKENINGS PRESENTS MOSAIC, FRIDAY 19 OCTOBER, GASHOUDER, 10 PM. Producer of smooth house Maceo Plex invites a number of interesting names including Ben UFO, Helena Hauff, Floating Points and Job Jobse.

DGTL PRESENTS OUTLIER, SATURDAY 20 OCTOBER, NDSM, 10 PM. A more than excellent line-up featuring NTS Radio veteran Moxie, Ninja Tune’s Leon Vynehall, Germany’s DJ Koze and more.

Helena Hauff

JON HOPKINS LIVE, SATURDAY 20 OCTOBER, PARADISO, 7.30 PM. A great opportunity to see this brilliant, Brian Enoapproved trance producer.

John Hopkins

COLLABS ALL NIGHT, THURSDAY 18 OCTOBER, MEDIAHAVEN, 10 PM. The immensely popular joint project by Speedy J and Chris Liebing. Possibly their longest ever set.

Leon Vynehall

I AMSTERDAM MAGAZINE

For the cost of a couple of beers, you can save your hearing from taking a beating.

Try these Thunderplugs (€9.95)

© JORISRAAIJMAN

11 Another one to catch this year is the infectious trap/EDM/gabba crossover act Yellow Claw, who have been generating impressive amounts of YouTube views with their unusual combination of typical Dutch ravey club sounds and streetwise American beats and vocals.

Of course, there’s no way that big room house star Martin Garrix, whose 2015 tune “Animals” turned out to be one of the biggest electronic hits ever to be released, would be missing from the 2018 line-up.

He will play an 18+ as well as an all-ages gig at the RAI convention centre in the city’s southern outskirts.

The still very young but bestselling producer Reinier Zonneveld is among the biggest young Dutch techno producers on the bill.

He’s known for his remixes as well as original productions, and his live sets have mesmerised large Fore more details on this year's event, festival crowds across the world. visit amsterdamZonneveld plays in a relatively dance-event.nl intimate setting, at the Filth on Acid party at De Marktkantine in Amsterdam’s inner west.

Arriving by plane, train or private helicopter is the big army of international artists and DJs, coming from backgrounds as diverse as Detroit techno (Derrick May, Kevin Saunderson, Kirk Degiorgio), future bass, electronica (Bicep, Orbital), deep house (Dixon, Âme), jazz/fusion (Floating Points), downbeat (Bonobo), drum & bass (Netsky) and Berlin’s Berghain sound (Marcel Dettmann & Ben Klock).

Sigala

ADE Beats

Whilst in the 90s and 00s musical genres were little worlds of their own, nowadays producers grab their influences from wherever they can. And so urban and house have become close siblings where in the past they were more like distant cousins. So it’s only natural that ADE now also includes an ADE Beats programme, where the newest urban music is presented and where both new trends and history are discussed. For this year’s edition, representatives from record labels such as Def Jam, Island and Empire have been confirmed to share their view on what the industry’s like these days.

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Practical considerations

When visiting ADE, please keep in mind that accommodation will be harder to find (remember there are 400,000 dance fans coming to town). Synthetic drugs are illegal and potentially dangerous ( judgement-free drug testing facilities are available at the GGD medical centres throughout the week). And last but not least, have fun and don’t panic if certain shows are sold out; there is never a time of the year with more excellent Plan Bs than during ADE.

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Follow our routes to discover the best of Amsterdam

iamsterdam.com/routes

14 15 16 17

Twelve Hours Twenty­four Hours Forty­eight Hours Seventy­two Hours

How to spend your time in 12, 24, 48 or 72+ hours

Crunch through the leaves

Autumn is a special time of year in Amsterdam when the streets are lined with golden leaves and the cooler nights have us heading for cosy cafés. A stroll through the city’s tree­lined parks (like Westerpark, Rembrandtpark, Oosterpark or the famous Vondelpark) makes the most of the changing seasons.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

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Your Trip

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14 | TEXT: ALISON MCGARRY

hours in Amsterdam

Whether it’s a whirlwind trip or a long luxurious stay, make the most of every hour in Amsterdam with our guide to what to see and do.

How to spend your time in…

Cruise the canals

Raise the curtain

DURATION: 1 HOUR

DURATION: 3 HOURS

This city built on water is best experienced by boat. Order your canal cruise ticket online to save time on the day: Iamsterdam.com/canalcruise or get a free canal cruise with the I amsterdam City Card.

Meet the Old Masters

Twelve hours allows just enough time to come face­to­face with masterpieces from the Dutch Golden Age. See the extensive collection at the Rijksmuseum, and step into the former residence of Rembrandt van Rijn at the Rembrandt House Museum. Both are free with the I amsterdam City Card.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

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Autumn marks the beginning of the cultural season. Suit up for a performance at the National Opera & Ballet, catch a classical concert at the Royal Concert­ gebouw or watch a sur­titled performance at the theatre.

Taste an original culinary classic As if you needed a reason to dig into a comforting slice of apple pie. Try the deep­dish Dutch version, infused with cinnamon and dotted with raisins.

DURATION: 1 HOUR

Take home a piece of Dutch Design

Forgo traditional souvenirs in favour of elegant design pieces found in stores like Droog, Moooi Showroom and the I amsterdam Store.

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

Explore the Jordaan and Nine Streets

See the world’s largest Van Gogh collection

© MERIJN ROUBROEKS

A labyrinth of narrow streets and canals dotted with independent art galleries, antique shops, courtyard gardens and atmospheric bars and restaurants, the Jordaan is a postcard­perfect slice of Amsterdam.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

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hours in Amsterdam

Go beyond the paintings and delve into the artist’s life at the Van Gogh Museum (free with the I amsterdam City Card).

Along with more than 200 paintings, including iconic works like ‘Sunflowers’ and ‘The Potato Eaters’, artefacts, letters and sketches give insight into Van Gogh’s personal experiences.

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

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© RUDY AND PETER SKITTERIANS – PIXABAY

© NENAD MARIC – PIXABAY

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Your Trip

Escape the chill in a traditional Dutch brown café like Café Oosterling: a cosy historic pub filled with local character.

16 | MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TRIP

© CANVAS – TIMO ADEMA

Get a head for heights

Following the global trend for rooftop bars, Amsterdam offers some truly beautiful vistas that pair perfectly with a cocktail or local craft beer. Head up to MA’DAM, W Lounge, Floor 17, Hopp or Canvas, preferably at sunset.

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hours in Amsterdam

DURATION: 2-3 HOURS

Venture North

© KOEN SMILDE

DURATION: 3 HOURS

Get snap happy

Admire the latest in contem­ porary photography at Unseen, Amsterdam’s annual celebration of new developments in the world of photography. And check out Foam photography museum (free with the I amsterdam City Card) for more opportunities to see the world through a lens.

DURATION: 2 HOURS

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© THIJS BOONTJES

Amsterdam’s northern neighbourhood across the River IJ is well worth the quick trip – take the free ferry from behind central station. Head up the A’DAM Tower, explore cinematic history at the EYE Filmmuseum (free with the I amsterdam City Card), or have a picnic in Noorderpark.

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Delve into Amsterdam’s historically significant monuments, with a visit to Anne Frank House Museum, where the Frank family hid during WWII, and the Jewish Historical Museum (free with the I amsterdam City Card), dedicated to Jewish arts and culture.

Hop on your bike and spend a leisurely afternoon taking in the city’s lush countryside and monumental architecture.

Follow the Amstel River towards Ouderkerk aan de Amstel or bike along the River Vecht to catch a glimpse of castles and stately homes.

Take a day trip to Almere and Lelystad to see innovative architecture and outdoor artworks, such as ‘Exposure’

by Antony Gormley. The 25­metre steel figure crouching on the bank of the Markermeer lake has become a local icon.

DURATION: 3 HOURS

DURATION: 4 HOURS © CRIS TOALA OLIVARES

Learn about Amsterdam’s Jewish history

Cycle through the countryside

See the region’s art and architecture

© CRIS TOALA OLIVARES

DURATION: 2 HOURS

IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITY-CARD

Admire Frans Hals’ masterpieces at the Frans Hals Museum – an inspiring experience for the building alone – or delve into art and scientific discoveries at the Teylers Museum, one of the oldest museums in the Netherlands. Both are free with the I amsterdam City Card.

DURATION: 3 HOURS

© PIXABAY

Get your I amsterdam City Card at one of our our visitor centres (see page 78) for free entry to many of Amsterdam’s museums and attractions, plus great discounts and special offers.

Visit Haarlem’s museums

Step into a fairy tale

Travel back in time at Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot (free with the I amsterdam City Card), an extraordinary piece of history built in 1280, complete with moat, drawbridge and elaborate gardens.

DURATION: 4 HOURS

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© KEES HAGEMAN

© ANNE FRANK HOUSE

hours or more

The best kept secret of

Rembrandtplein 17 | 1017 CT Amsterdam | 020 - 45 00 555 | www.vanrijnamsterdam.nl open daily from 10 AM

FAVOURITE SPOT AT REMBRANDTPLEIN

Rembrandtplein 17-I 1017 CT AMSTERDAM 020 - 62 52 011 | www.dekroon.nl open daily from 4 PM until late

20 Coffee & Cake 22 Kitchen Imports 23 Brilliant Beer Bars 24 Boutique Shopping 26 Kid-Friendly Cafés 27 Fine Dining 28 Chic Shopping 30 Late-Night Noshing 31 Raising the Bar 32 Shopping Central

Where to indulge in Amsterdam The Beefsteak Club

It’s all about cows and cocktails at our favourite new steak address, where you should order the aged Austrian Rib, beef-fat fries and blood orange salad (pictured) and the bacon-bourbon-caramelpopcorn cheesecake. There’s also a bloody good piña colada (yes, really!).

©@MOKUMISTA

GOUDSBLOEMSTRAAT 207-211 THEBEEFSTEAKCLUB.NL

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Eat

The Gift Label’s organic coffee & salt scrub at Mint Mini Mall (€7.99) lets you get down and dirty with coffee.

20 | TEXT: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

RUNSTRAAT 27, MINTMINIMALL.NL

Ugga

Named after the Hebrew word for ‘cake’, this cosy bakery-café is the best place for babka (yeastrisen cake, here often swirled with poppy seeds, chocolate or nuts, or roast veg and feta, €2.95 per slice) and rugelach (flaky crescent-shaped chocolate pastries, €1.80 each), served with Catunambu coffee. Do grab a luscious loaf cake (€8) to gift or take home or, on Fridays, challah (sweet braided bread, €3.95 for a medium loaf).

GERARD DOUSTRAAT 103A FACEBOOK.COM/UGGAAMSTERDAM

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Transform your homemade baked goods with this cactus-themed cupcake kit, available at De Kinderfeestwinkel (€13.95).

ONZE PRODUCTEN

GERARD DOUSTRAAT 65, KINDERFEESTWINKEL.NL

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My Little Patisserie

Need an excuse to follow Marie Antoinette’s famous advice to ‘eat cake’? You can always blame it on koffietijd (coffee time).

C

ome cold weather, we’re pretty sure the beloved and very Dutch pastime of ‘coffee time’ (traditionally a mid-afternoon break to enjoy coffee with something sweet) will find fans. After all, there are few pleasures simpler than settling in somewhere cosy, tucking into a slice of something nice, and sipping on a well-brewed cup of coffee. And, with a new generation of French-trained pastry chefs – many of them female – at the helm of some of Amsterdam’s best cake shops, there’s never been a better time to indulge. Petit Gâteau’s Meike Schaling has found success in Amsterdam with small crisp-shelled tarts she calls ‘mini-minis’, after training at the Ecole de Boulangerie et de Pâtisserie de Paris, working at Michelin-starred La Grande Cascade and running a pastry shop in Paris. Fellow alumnus, the French-born Audrey Kriel of My Little Patisserie, worked at the famous Pâtisserie des Rêves and Petit Gâteau, before opening her shop specialised in classic cream-filled pastries. And, while pastry chef Adva Rachamim still uses many classic methods after training at the French Pastry School in Chicago and working under pastry gods like Dimitri Fayard, Avi Melamedson and Mario Barrios, you’ll also find a lot of pastries from her Israeli heritage at her ‘urban bakery’. Meanwhile, popular Centrum-based cake shop De Laatste Kruimel is run by a Bulgarian couple, Ivelena and Pavel, who previously worked at De Bakkerswinkel.

EERSTE VAN DER HELSTSTRAAT 63 MYLITTLEPATISSERIE.NL

©@MOKUMISTA

Coffee & Cake

Head to this Parisian-style bakery in De Pijp for Madeleines (€0.90), heavenly chocolate éclairs and lemon choux (both €3.10), and coffee from Amsterdam coffee roasters Lot Sixty One.

Petit Gâteau

Signature tartlets (€2.80) come in a changing assortment of 50 flavours (think chocolate-passion fruit, salted caramel, apricotpistachio, and yuzu meringue).

HAARLEMMERSTRAAT 80 PETITGATEAU.NL

De Laatste Kruimel

© @MOKUMISTA

Old-time favourites like cheesecake, chocolate cake and bread pudding, which are tasty down to the ‘very last crumb’ (€3.70-€4.80), are at this charming bakery-café.

LANGEBRUGSTEEG 4 DELAATSTEKRUIMEL.NL

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Eat & Drink 22 | POST-COLONIAL CUISINE

Saté kambing: goat satay is an unmissable Indonesian speciality.

Kitchen Imports Restaurant Blauw

The Indonesian rijsttafel (literally, ‘rice table’) was a colonial Dutch invention, combining the traditions of various regional kitchens into a celebratory meal that was, perhaps, an early ‘tasting menu’, served with rice and spicy sambals. At this enduringly popular restaurant, vegetarian, meat and fish options are served in sleek boat-shaped vessels against a contemporary chilli red backdrop refreshingly free of Wajang puppets and other folkloristic clichés.

Highlights include meltingly tender goat satay (pictured), aromatic babi ketjap (a soy-based pork stew), and spekkoek (layered spice cake).

AMSTELVEENSEWEG 158-160, RESTAURANTBLAUW.NL

Considering the 50th anniversary of the Bijlmer, Amsterdam’s most diverse borough, there’s perhaps no better time to get a taste of the city’s most important cuisine imports.

Tjin’s

Hollands’ oldest Surinamese sandwich shop has been serving typical toppings from the former Dutch colony – think shrimp & snake bean, curried chicken, and salted cod – since 1977.

Saray Lokanta

VAN WOUSTRAAT 17 TJINSBROODJES.NL

Mamouche

After an immigrant influx from Morocco, dishes like couscous and tagine have gone from being exotic to familiar in a matter of a few decades, and this De Pijp restaurant is one of the best places to enjoy this hearty and deeply flavourful food. On the French-Moroccan menu, characteristic Moroccan specialities, such as b’astilla (sweet-savoury chicken pie, €10.50) and couscous mechoui (pictured), sit next to star anise-infused crème brulee (€8).

QUELLIJNSTRAAT 104, RESTAURANTMAMOUCHE.NL

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After guest workers from Turkey came to the Netherlands, many made a permanent home in the Netherlands, opening shops and eateries. The oldest Turkish restaurant in Amsterdam (est. 1976!) is still a lovely and lively place to stop for mezze, a type of Turkish tapas. Do order the sigara boregi (feta-stuffed pastry ‘cigars’), pistachio-specked hummus, and calamari with herbed yoghurt (€4 each), or try menemen tava (a Turkish take on shakshuka).

GERARD DOUSTRAAT 33-35, SARAYLOKANTA.NL

At Bar Alt, a two-year oak aged Rodenbach red ale is expertly paired with grilled octopus, sobrassada sausage, yellow tomato ketchup, pil-pil sauce and piquillo peppers.

For more on food and drink in Amsterdam, visit our blog: iamsterdam.com/ blog/food-and-drink

Brilliant Beer Bars Back in the day you could simply order a biertje (beer) at any Amsterdam café… Those days are over.

W

e thank the rise of craft beer for the tenfold increase in Amsterdam breweries over the last decade, which has certainly made local beer lists more interesting. You can choose from over 100 Dutch brews at Proeflokaal ‘t Arendsnest or go to the source at Oedipus Taproom to try Mannenliefde, which placed second in the World Beer Cup’s Specialty

Saison category in 2018. But if you call yourself a true beer aficionado, do check out Bar Alt, where some of the world’s best craft beers are paired with an accomplished casual fine-dining menu (from €45). Still craving the humble pleasures of a tobacco-stained ‘brown café’ where belting out biertje! will land you an Amstel? Monumental Café Hoppe has been the archetype since 1670.

PROEFLOKAAL ‘T ARENDSNEST HERENGRACHT 90, ARENDSNEST.NL * OEDIPUS TAPROOM GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 85, OEDIPUS.COM * BAR ALT STADIONPLEIN 103, BAR-ALT.COM * CAFE HOPPE SPUI 18-20, CAFEHOPPE.COM

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Shop

24 | SCENIC SHOPPING BOUTIQUES

Shopping District: Negen Straatjes • Jordaan • Haarlemmerdijk

Quaint & Quirky Amsterdam’s prettiest shopping area is bursting with vintage and designer shopping, galleries and specialty stores.

Malaysia-born Wanting Choo’s new shop is a showcase for sustainable finds from around the globe – from organic French underwear (M/F) to Japanese Hasami Porcelain, Danish artisan candles and Italian natural skincare – with a café serving White Label Coffee, Monkey Chief Tea and Asian sweets.

W

ith its unique offbeat vibe, the canal-straddling micro-neighbourhood known as the ‘Nine Streets’, hip Haarlemmerdijk and the famous former working-class Jordaan area (now very much gentrified) will appeal to even the most jaded shopper. And while rising rents have pushed out many of the area’s characteristic independent stores, you are still guaranteed to find a special little something from Amsterdam in this delightful shopping district, making it the ideal spot for hours of relaxed browsing.

Tip: don’t miss the Organic Farmer’s Market on Noordermarkt (Saturdays) or on the Haarlemmerplein (Wednesdays).

HAARLEMMERDIJK 66 SALTWATERAMSTERDAM.COM

Japanese bound notebooks (€6.95) at Salt Water Amsterdam.

Red Wing Shoes

These rugged handcrafted work boots (M/F) fit very comfortably into the current streetwear moment of ripped jeans, grungy styling and nostalgic graphics. The perfect compromise between fashion and function, they’re both stylish and weather-proof, and while they don’t come cheap, they will last for years. Visit the Nine Streets store for the best collection of the renowned American brand in Europe.

REESTRAAT 15 REDWINGAMSTERDAM.COM

Abraham Kef

Tucked away in a tiny Jordaan basement, you’ll find Amsterdam’s most famous French cheese specialist, which has been doing a fine trade in fromage since 1953. Whether your tastes run to blue, red, white, hard, soft, goat or sheep cheese, if it’s French, you’ll find it here. Tip: the black truffle brie with mascarpone is our favourite.

MARNIXSTRAAT 192 ABRAHAMKEF.NL

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© @MOKUMISTA

Salt Water

Add some colour to your office routine WOUF IPAD SLEEVE, AVAILABLE AT KO CONCEPTSTORE (€39.99, WOLVENSTRAAT 9 & 11)

Pig & Hen’s handmade men’s bracelet Gorgeous George (€54.95) certainly is a looker.

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INSIDER INTERVIEW

Dominic Bakker (35), co-founder of Pig & Hen ‘Pig & Hen is like Amsterdam in a lot of ways,’ says Bakker about his line of ship’s rope bracelets for men, named after a typical tattoo worn by 17th-century Dutch sailors for good luck. ‘Because like these seamen and the city they set sail from, it is bold, adventurous and open-minded’. Moreover, he explains, ‘the city’s intricate network of canals and beautiful old buildings were made with a lot of attention to detail and so are our fine-knit handmade bracelets.’ And, while the decision to open the brand’s flagship store in the Nine Streets shopping district was ‘easy, because it’s our favourite shopping area,’ he adds that ‘if you look into the area’s history, you’ll find that a lot of handmade products came from here. In fact, six of the streets got their names from the animal hides that were used to produce all kinds of goods.’

Teuntje

This charming children’s store stocks a wide price range of kids’ gifts, original souvenirs (a Dutch toy police car, for example), as well as kids clothing and shoes (ages 0-11) from brands like Hugo♥Tiki, Igor, Play Up, Vans and Picnik.

We’ve never left empty-handed: you’ve been warned!

BERENSTRAAT 9 PIGANDHEN.NL

HAARLEMMERDIJK 132 TEUNTJE.NL

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Reserve a Boozy Brunch at Brooks, and take it easy while your minis are entertained at a craft table with nannies and kid-friendly food.

Eat

BEETHOVENSTRAAT 43 BROOKSAMSTERDAM.NL

26 | CHILDREN WELCOME

Kid-Friendly Cafés

Whether you’re looking to breakfast, brunch or lunch while your little one is entertained, or you want to actually enjoy dinner with the whole family, our picks are sure to please everyone in your household.

WIBAUTSTRAAT 105 MELKSNORCAFE.NL

Café-Restaurant Amsterdam

© @MOKUMISTA

Melksnor

With two inside play areas and a sandbox on the shaded terrace, plus a menu that caters to kids with toasties and pancakes and to parents with smoothie bowls, salads and good coffee (there’s even wine and beer!) head here if you’ve a baby, toddler or pre-schooler in tow.

Wijs West

This 19th-century monument once pumped water from the coast’s dunes. Now it pumps out brasserie fare – from steak frites to North Sea sole – under an expansive ceiling with floodlighting rescued from a former Ajax stadium. A play area and children’s menu has made it a favourite with families.

WATERTORENPLEIN 6 CRADAM.NL

TonTon Club

Let’s face it, as a parent your time is limited. So why not combine lunching with shopping while your toddler’s entertained in a toy-stocked playpen? Tuck into delicious sandwiches, cakes and lattes; then peruse the racks for chambray jumpsuits or that must-have neon yellow ‘love’ lamp for their room.

Older kids can join their parents at this ‘adults’ playground’. The Centre location’s your best bet for classic arcade games (though it is in the Red Light District), or head West for Japanese-inspired fun. There are no children’s menus here, but kiddie-pleasers like hot dogs, burgers and milkshakes should satisfy even the pickiest tweens and teens.

BILDERDIJKSTRAAT 62 WIJSWEST.NL

SINT ANNENDWARSSTRAAT 6/ POLONCEAUKADE 27, TONTONCLUB.NL

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An umami-packed starter of soused herring with kohlrabi marinated in a buckling tosazu, green strawberries and cauliflower cream.

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Burgundian Bliss

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estaurant Breda is the gourmet love baby of owners Freek, Guillaume and Johanneke, who were born and raised in the southern Dutch city of Breda, which was once part of the Burgundian Circle and where a love of the finer things in life prevails. The trio are also behind successful concept-chameleon Guts & Glory and slick new brasserie Maris Piper. But at the more luxurious sibling, Breda, seasonal ingredients abound and dishes are unfussy yet

flavourful, though perhaps not ideal for picky eaters. Imagine panna cotta with beetroot-cherry foam, rose tea crumble and a rose-cherry sorbet (pictured). Choose from a three-, four- or five-course fixed French-international menu for lunch (from €29.50) or more elaborate options for dinner (from €49.50). There are 15 wines by the glass and over 60 wines by the bottle, or opt for the first-rate wine pairing (€6.50–€9.50 per glass).

SINGEL 210, BREDA-AMSTERDAM.COM

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© @MOKUMISTA

Situated in a former warehouse classically furnished in soothing greens, this fine dining restaurant has earned its place among the city’s best since opening in 2015.

Shop 28 | RETAIL THERAPY

&Klevering

At this quiet corner store, a kaleidoscopic display of home accessories, tableware and linens can be found, all sourced from a respectable selection of Dutch and other European design brands including Iittala, HAY, A Little Lovely Company, Bodil, Ferm Living and Marimekko.

JACOB OBRECHTSTRAAT 19A KLEVERING.NL

INSIDER INTERVIEW Pieteke Bode (42), co-owner of Bodes & Bode

Shopping District: Zuid • Museum Quarter

Southern Star From age-old art to high-end chic, Zuid is the posh place to be.

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his beautiful neighbourhood rewards the discerning visitor at every turn, from the splendour of Museumplein, home to some of the world’s best art museums, to the glamour of the P.C. Hooftstraat (known locally as the P.C. or “pay say”), where you’ll find all the most exclusive names, including the recently

opened Isabel Marant, Furla and Christian Louboutin brand stores. The area around the Cornelis Schuytstraat, where chic boutiques abound and impressive manors line leafy streets, is one of Amsterdam’s most elegant. Tip: artisan food fans should check out the ZuiderMRKT farmer’s market, held on Saturdays.

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Bode is part of the fifth generation of her family-owned jewellery store, who transformed it from an antiques specialist into a must-visit spot for ‘trendy people with good taste’. Today you’ll find a house collection of ‘wearable, vintage-inspired gold jewellery and one-of-akind rings and earrings, set with coloured stones’, some creations by small French and Italian jewellery houses, selected vintage pieces to complement the collection (think of Rolexes with customised dials in attractive colours), and other ‘more affordable items that are great for gifts’. When scouting a second location in the Netherlands six years ago (the flagship store is in The Hague) she ‘immediately felt at home in the Cornelis Schuytstraat’, which has the ‘feeling of an old-fashioned neighbourhood with style, with small independent shops, great places to have a coffee or lunch, and good parking facilities’.

CORNELIS SCHUYTSTRAAT 7HS BODESENBODE.COM

With an LED lamp inspired by vintage car headlights and a mechanical ash wood base, the Mr Wattson desk lamp (€139) puts the fun back in functional at &Klevering.

Inspired by the cosmos, the stormproof Senz° umbrella will make you feel like a lucky star in a downpour (€54.90), available at district 10|71.

VAN BAERLESTRAAT 50, DISTRICT1071.NL

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Fendi

Furnished with Fior di Pesco marble, pale pink carpets and sketches by creative director Karl Lagerfeld on the walls, it’s refinement all the way at the Italian fashion house’s first brand boutique in the Netherlands, where you’ll be guided through the women’s collection and accessories line on the ground floor and the men’s collection in the basement by superwelcoming sales staff.

P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 71 , FENDI.COM

Christian Louboutin

Shoe fetishists won’t require any introduction to the eponymous French designer’s signature red-soled stilettos, but the first Dutch Louboutin store is worth a visit for its over-the-top décor alone. From its cheery yellow façade to its circus-themed interior, you could almost overlook the luxe shoes and leather goods (M/F) displayed on red velvet here, if it weren’t for the hard-eyed stares of the salesgirls.

P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 96 EU.CHRISTIANLOUBOUTIN.COM

Isabel Marant

With the recent opening of the first Isabel Marant brand store in the Netherlands, the luxury label’s effortless French girl style is now within reach of Amsterdam shoppers. The 150 m2 store carries the brand’s main collection, a small selection of its more accessibly priced Etoile range, and shoes and bags.

P.C. HOOFTSTRAAT 114 ISABELMARANT.COM

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Local chefs’ after-hours favourite, Taste of Culture is famous for its Peking duck and har kau dumplings; open until 3 am on weekends.

Eat

KORTE LEIDSEDWARSSTRAAT 139-141 TASTEOFCULTURE.NET

30 | MIDNIGHT FEAST

Late-Night Noshing O

ne of the inconveniences for visitors to Amsterdam is that locals eat early, and consequently most restaurant kitchens close by 10 pm. That said, you don’t have to curb your cravings any more at midnight than you do at midday. From quick dim sum to three-course blow-outs,

we’ve got the inside scoop on eateries that can accommodate orders until well after midnight (and some stay open even later, especially on weekends). And, if all else fails, there’s always the neon yellow lure of fast food chain FEBO (various locations, febo.nl).

ACE

UTRECHTSESTRAAT 33 RESTAURANTACE.AMSTERDAM

Cannibale Royale

©SASKIA DE WAL

Who says you can’t have a romantic multi-course meal after midnight? At this atmospheric eatery, you can share internationallyinfluenced cuisine with an Amsterdam twist until late on weekends. Place your bets on ‘Queen of Hearts’, a secluded upstairs table for two.

The Butcher Social Club

Late-night flesh hunters take note: there are sticky ribs, jerk-style chicken and hefty slabs of meat to be had until 3 am on Friday and Saturday (and 2 am on other nights) at this meat-lovers’ magnet, which scores masculinity points with its gallows humour and quirky interior.

HANDBOOGSTRAAT 17 CANNIBALEROYALE.NL

Bardak

For Tel Aviv-style mushroom shawarma, arais (crisp pitas stuffed with juicy lamb kebab) and affordable Arak-based cocktails – all set against a neo-grungy backdrop with Israeli street art and Balkan beats – head to this new Heinekenplein-adjacent ‘street-food bar’, which is open until 3 am on weekend nights.

At this uber-hip eatery in the A’DAM Tower you can eat gourmet burgers around the clock on weekends (yes, really!).

From spiced chickpea burgers to eggs Benedict burgers, served with (boozy) milkshakes, soft drinks or cocktails, you won’t leave here hungry or thirsty, whatever the hour.

OVERHOEKSPLEIN 1 THE-BUTCHER.COM

FERDINAND BOLSTRAAT 12 BARDAK.NL

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Dutch icons like clogs, tulips, Delft blue tiles and even Amsterdam’s iconic St. Andreas crosses feature on Urban Cacao’s arty wrappers.

Raising the Bar Local brands are sweet on sustainable chocolate making.

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id you know that chocolate was invented in Amsterdam? It’s a long story, but suffice it to say that both the cocoa press and the process known as ‘Dutching’, which form the basis of modern chocolate making, were invented at a local factory. After centuries at the centre of the cocoa industry, Amsterdam still boasts the world’s largest cocoa port, and the latest generation of Dutch chocolate makers continue to stir things up with a focus on fair trade and sustainability. Over 13 years ago, Tony’s Chocolonely (tonyschocolonely.com) intro-

duced ‘slave-free’ chocolate bars to Dutch supermarkets in whimsical wrappers. Others soon followed, including the organic, ‘bean to bar’ Chocolatemakers (chocolatemakers.nl), who claim to control every link in their climate-neutral chain themselves; and Urban Cacao (facebook.com/urbancacao) – known for artisan chocolate bars and pretty packaging (they’re responsible for Stach’s cultish chocolates too). Vegan Lovechock (lovechock.com) and raw chocolate brand Dear Chocolate (dearchocolate.nl) form part of the latest wave.

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Shop

Add some ’70s groove to your teatime with this ceramic teapot by Dutch brand HK Living, available at Kauf dich Glücklich (€29.99).

32 | SHOPPING CENTRAL

Centre Shopping Head away from the heaving high street to discover lesser-known shopping areas.

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hile many visitors make a beeline for Kalverstraat, there are actually many hidden gems in the centre.

Utrechtsestraat, in the Eastern Canal Belt, is a local’s favourite for its combination of indie boutiques, hip concept stores, designer furniture outlets and quality butchers, bakers, historic cafes and restaurants. In the Western Canal Belt, you’ll find the up-and-coming Raadhuisstraat, as well as the Herenstraat and adjacent Prinsenstraat, which remind us of the Nine Streets in their heyday. But, if you prefer to get out of the rain for some tax-free shopping instead, do head to premium department stores Hudson’s Bay or De Bijenkorf near Dam Square.

Kauf dich Glücklich

Apparently, you can now ‘buy happiness’ at this Berlin-based brand’s first concept store outside of Germany and Austria, where you’ll find homewares, accessories, jewellery, natural cosmetics and ownbrand apparel (M/F) as well as Dutch and Scandi labels at an accessible price point.

© @MOKUMISTA

Shopping District: Centre • Kalverstraat • Utrechtsestraat

RAADHUISSTRAAT 40 KAUFDICHGLUECKLICH-SHOP.DE

Puur Noors

Stay warm and stylish this autumn with generously sized wrap-around coats and shawl styles made from 100% pure lamb’s wool at this Norwegian women’s clothing and homewares specialist. You’ll discover a multi-brand collection combining clean Scandi-cool aesthetics with Nordic practicality.

HERENSTRAAT 36C FACEBOOK.COM/PUURNOORS

C. Cosmetics & Care

If you care about the planet as much as you do about your appearance, make a beeline for this 100% junk-free beauty shop and salon, where you’ll find brands like freshMinerals, Nuori and Soapwalla and a full range of treatments. One of the best, the Luxury Dr. Alkaitus Skin Food Facial (€119), was developed by a holistic massage therapist and combines acupressure, lifting massage and lymphatic drainage massage with Dr. Alkaitus’ raw, organic skincare products and edible ingredients like goat’s yoghurt for an all-natural glow.

HERENSTRAAT 30A COSMETICSANDCARE.COM

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This Fluevog Malibran criss-crossed mary jane heel (€269, pictured below) will make you sing!

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INSIDER INTERVIEW

De Bijenkorf

The latest Strellson collection, with its ‘informal, naturally relaxed look’ (pictured above), is available at Amsterdam’s most famous luxury department store, which also boasts the city’s ‘first and only instant tax refund service point in the Netherlands’. This makes it one of the best places to shop for exclusive designer brands like Gucci, Prada and Louis Vuitton, as well as cosmetics, homewares, furniture, luggage, books and gifts.

DAM 1 DEBIJENKORF.NL

Discover cool curiosities, such as this life-sized raven model AT AMSTERDAM’S MODERN WUNDERKAMMER, THE OTHERIST (€115, LELIEGRACHT 6, OTHERIST.COM)

John Fluevog (70), founder and footwear designer of John Fluevog Shoes The cultish Canadian shoe brand recently chose to open its first European store in Amsterdam, because according to Fluevog, the city ‘shares some attributes with Vancouver, which makes it easier for me to understand the Dutch people and culture than in some other countries.’ In a time of fast fashion and short attention spans, one would think it’s harder than ever to stay relevant for 40 years, but the veteran designer disagrees, saying: ‘The reason I think I’m still in business and still expanding is that I don’t try to compete with current and fast fashion. Often what will come out of my head will fly in the face of what is trending, and this boldness works most of the time. I discovered that people want to have something unique that expresses their personalities – a piece of art rather than an article of clothing.’

HEILIGEWEG 37 FLUEVOG.COM

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6 – 25 oktober — Nederlands Philharmonisch Orkest — operaballet.nl

JENŮFA —

Leoš Janáček

Exhibitions Collections On Stage Festivals & Events Pop & Rock LGBTI Clubbing On Screen Classical Music Family Fun

Unseen Amsterdam

Organised by Amsterdam’s key photography and art institutions, Unseen Amsterdam is one of the world’s leading photography fairs. Bringing together more than 50 leading galleries from around the world to showcase new developments in the photography and art world, it also provides a platform for up-and-coming talent to exhibit their work.

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

21–23 SEPTEMBER WESTERGASFABRIEK UNSEENAMSTERDAM.COM

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GREEN PHONE #SMUDGE FROM THE SERIES N-TOKYO, 2018 © KENTA COBAYASHI

Dates for your Amsterdam agenda

36 38 39 40 44 46 47 48 49 50

Exhibitions

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

© VAN GOGH MUSEUM, AMSTERDAM

36 | TEXT: MEGAN WATERS AND DAVID WILLS

Gauguin and Laval in Martinique

D

iscontent with the decadent Parisian way of life of the 1880s, friends and fellow artists Paul Gauguin and Charles Laval escaped to the Caribbean island of Martinique. While living and working on the exotic island, they created a series of artworks that had a huge impact on their further artistic development. The two friends’ styles were so similar that for a long time some of Laval’s works were attributed to Gaugin. But

during their island stay, Gauguin started to incorporate rural and indigenous populations in his work, which remained a popular subject after he returned to France. This colourful exhibition features a selection of warm, vivid paintings, preliminary sketches and large, elaborate pastels created while living in their island hideaway and displayed here together for the first time.

5 OCTOBER 2018–13 JANUARY 2019, VAN GOGH MUSEUM

7 SEPTEMBER–12 DECEMBER, FOAM

© KIRSTEN VAN SANTEN

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PRIVATE SCENES Japanese photographer Masahisa Fukase was largely unknown outside of Japan, but not anymore thanks to Foam. They’re staging a massive retrospective exhibition of his work from the 1960s to 1992, much of it never seen before, including original prints, publications and his seminal body of work – ‘Ravens’.

COOL JAPAN The Tropenmuseum’s Cool Japan collection promises a broad selection of iconic characters from Japanese pop culture alongside historical masterpieces.

Think cutesy Hello Kitty and Edo-period Katsushika Hokusai, or Samurai warriors strutting their stuff with Pokémon.

FROM 28 SEPTEMBER, TROPENMUSEUM

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THE YEAR OF CANCER — 15,22 NOV SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

2019 marks 350 years since Rembrandt van Rijn’s death, giving good reason to celebrate one of the Netherlands’ most revered artists of the Golden Age. Expect festivities all year long with Amsterdam, The Hague and Leiden all honouring his life and work.

37

Portrait Gallery of the Golden Age

Frans Hals and the Moderns

Dutch Golden Age painter Frans Hals was rediscovered as a modern idol 200 years after his death. Admired by 19th-century artists such as Edouard Manet, Max Liebermann and Vincent van Gogh, they were impressed by his loose touch and rough painting style. This exhibition features work from the 17th-century portrait master as well as virtuoso works by the artists who he inspired to give insight into the immense impact Hals had on modern painters.

© GERT JAN VAN ROOIJ

13 OCTOBER 2018–10 FEBRUARY 2019, FRANS HALS MUSEUM

Günther Förg – A Fragile Beauty

LEONARDO DA VINCI The first major exhibition in the Netherlands of Leonardo da Vinci’s original drawings features loans from far and wide, including from the collection of Queen Elizabeth II, the National Museum of Budapest and Paris’ Louvre.

5 OCTOBER 2018–6 JANUARY 2019, TEYLERS MUSEUM

in his experimental category-defying works with their boundary-pushing fusions of medium and discipline influenced by American abstraction.

Architecture and space were integral to his displays and were often incorporated into his work.

UNTIL 14 OCTOBER 2018, STEDELIJK MUSEUM

ONGOING, HERMITAGE

80 YEARS’ WAR This year marks 450 years since the start of the Eighty Years’ War – the rebellion by the Netherlands against the Spanish King Philip II. This fascinating exhibition shows how the violent events of the conflict led to the unintentional emergence of current day Netherlands and Belgium.

12 OCTOBER 2018–20 JANUARY 2019, RIJKSMUSEUM

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© STUDIO GANDALF. COLLECTION RIJKSMUSEUM, AMSTERDAM

Graphic style and colour collide in A Fragile Beauty, Günther Förg’s expansive survey show at the Stedelijk Museum featuring early monochrome paintings and studies, photographs, sculptures and more. Fuelled by the urge for freedom, the German artist engaged wit to critique and fathom the meaning of modern art. His rebellious nature can be seen

If portraits are your thing then head to the Hermitage, where a significant exhibition of 30 enormous 17th-century group portraits (taken from the collections of the Amsterdam Museum and the Rijksmuseum) are on display together for the very first time.

Lovingly considered as the brothers and sisters of Rembrandt’s ‘The Night Watch’, the portraits depict regents, archers and merchants from many different backgrounds, beliefs and classes at a time of flourishing trade.

AMSTERDAM, THE MAGIC CENTER Amsterdam, The Magic Center: Art and Counterculture 1967–1970 is the Stedelijk Museum’s major exhibition featuring innovative work, recreations and archive material from a vibrant period in the city’s infamous history. Think love, peace and politics along with fresh insights.

UNTIL 6 JANUARY 2019, STEDELIJK MUSEUM

Collections 38 | TEXT: DAVID WILLS

Op het terras, 1930, Nola Hatterman The subject of this jazz era painting by Nola Hatterman, also an actress and designer of bookbinding and sheet music, is Jimmy van der Lak, a young dandy and tap dancer from Paramaribo. Like many other Surinamese people who made the crossing to the Netherlands at the time, Jimmy worked in the entertainment sector, an industry teeming with musicians, dancers and waiters.

The vibrancy of the 1920s is captured in this bold image complete with a large foamy beer. Rumour has it that Amstel Bier commissioned the painting for advertising. Wondering why it was rejected? Visit the Amsterdam Museum, where the painting is currently on loan from the Stedelijk Museum, for the full story.

© OP HET TERRAS, 1930. COLLECTIE STEDELIJK MUSEUM AMSTERDAM

AMSTERDAM MUSEUM

JEWISH HISTORICAL MUSEUM

THE HIDDEN FORCE

— 29 NOV, 6 DEC SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

THE POTATO EATERS, 1885, VINCENT VAN GOGH One of Vincent van Gogh’s most famous works is also one of his darkest. Painted before his well-loved and much brighter flowers, landscapes and interior scenes, ‘The Potato Eaters’ is a sombre image depicting the harshness of country life at the time.

VAN GOGH MUSEUM

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© VAN GOGH MUSEUM, AMSTERDAM

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ORNAMENTAL TOWERS Neither the title, nor the name of the artist who made these beautiful golden ornamental towers, is known. Yet there’s no doubting the striking attention to detail that these small pieces display, complete with enclosures and balustrades, bells and floral decorations. While not expressly modeled on the Westerkerk, there are similarities.

On Stage

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

TEXT: DAVID WILLS

| 39

Jimmy Carr

Fifteen years of treading the boards has netted Jimmy Carr a seemingly endless flow of hilarious one-liners and jokes. Not one to shy away from any topic, Carr is sure to set the stage alight in his trademark dry delivery for his new show ‘Best Of, Ultimate, Gold, Greatest Hits World Tour’. Hecklers beware, Mr Carr takes no prisoners.

© JAN VERSWEYVELD

23 NOVEMBER, ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

Ivo van Hove’s Een klein leven

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he spotlight is shining on internationally acclaimed director Ivo Van Hove this year. Well-regarded for his interpretations of Shakespeare performed worldwide, his string of successes is growing. First up is his new collaboration with Stadsschouwburg and his own company Toneelgroep Amsterdam, Internationaal Theater Amsterdam.

He is the subject of four books including Ivo van Hove: Theater van de Lage Landen tot Broadway, which charts his triumphs in theatre

from the lowlands to Broadway. And if that’s not enough, there’s new production ‘Een klein leven’ based on Hanya Yanagihara’s captivating novel A Little Life. It tells the story of four men and the history of their friendship through Jude, the introverted main character struggling with unresolved grief. Set in New York against a backdrop of success and ambition, Jude’s friends tackle how to help someone who doesn’t want to be helped.

20–21 SEPTEMBER, STADSCHOUWBURG

The Barber of Seville

Figaro, figaro, fígáró... Now considered a masterpiece, Rossini’s ‘The Barber of Seville’ was deemed a flop at its premiere in 1816. Now one of opera’s most loved stories, director Laurence Dale’s retelling promises a night of laughs and musical highlights against a spectacular backdrop.

10 NOVEMBER–2 DECEMBER, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET

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CIRQUE ÉLOIZE Known for their breathtaking blend of circus arts, theatre and dance, Cirque Éloize return to Amsterdam with ‘Cirkopolis’: a transformation of the iconic film Metropolis, complete with an original musical score, inventive stage design and spectacular video projections. Expect a world where fantasy defies reality.

DITA VON TEESE Burlesque queen Dita von Teese brings her trademark retro glitz and glamour to Amsterdam’s Royal Theatre Carré. Think decadent acts such as the ‘Swan Lake Striptease’ and her renowned ‘Rhinestone Cowgirl Act’. Expect an extravaganza!

12–13 OCTOBER, ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

28–30 SEPTEMBER, ROYAL THEATRE CARRÉ

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CHEKHOV’S FIRST PLAY (PLATONOV) — DEAD CENTRE (DUBLIN)

11 — 13 OKT INTERNATIONAAL THEATER AMSTERDAM

LA DAME AUX CAMÉLIAS La Dame aux Camélias is a melancholic tale of impossible love based on Alexandre Dumas’s novel; the story follows Marguerite, a courtesan afflicted with consumption who falls in love with the bourgeois Armand. Expect opulent costumes in psychological dance presented by the Dutch National Ballet.

13 OCT–4 NOV, DUTCH NATIONAL OPERA & BALLET

Festivals & Events 40 | TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT

Amsterdam Light Festival

T © JANUS VAN DEN EIJNDEN

he iconic Amsterdam Light Festival sees Dutch and international artists create an array of light sculptures across the city, including the Canal Belt and Amstel River. This annual event transforms Amsterdam into one big open-air light museum, with its spectacular artworks musing on everything from the plight of immigrants to Dutch history and culture in recent years.

As well as the Illuminade walking route, which allows visitors to take in the dazzling illuminated works, the festival’s renowned Water Colors canal cruises let you get up close to all of the major exhibits. There are also guided tours, and an extensive programme that sees a host of activities and events take place at museums, theatres, restaurants, shops and other locations around Amsterdam.

29 NOVEMBER 2018–20 JANUARY 2019, AMSTERDAMLIGHTFESTIVAL.COM

7–16 SEPTEMBER, TF.NL

© IRINA RAIU

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NATIONAL DUTCH THEATRE FESTIVAL Want to catch some of the best productions of the theatrical season? Taking place in various locations, including the Stadsschouwburg and Theater Bellevue, this promises lively performances, many with English surtitles, and other visual performances aimed at younger audiences.

24H ZUIDOOST 24H Amsterdam showcases the very best the city’s neighbourhoods have to offer, including special events and behind the scenes tours. During 24H Zuidoost you can explore one of the city’s most multicultural areas; head off the beaten track to uncover some real hidden gems.

TROIS GRANDES FUGUES

15 SEPTEMBER, IAMSTERDAM.COM/24HRS

INTERNATIONAAL THEATER AMSTERDAM

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18 — 19 SEP

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

41

Afrovibes

An African performing arts festival that tours every autumn, Afrovibes provides a platform for extraordinary African artists and creators. The theme for this year’s event is ‘land’, exploring people's spiritual connection with the land they inhabit.

The annual Museum Night Amsterdam sees around 50 museums stay open until the early hours of the morning to host an array of special events including workshops, concerts, tours and performances. As well as the chance to see the city’s museums in a new light, why not taste some of the delicious food and drink available along with exceptional cultural programming across the entire city? Tickets are available via the Museum Night website in the run-up to the event, but as it regularly sells out, don't wait around or you’ll miss out.

3 NOVEMBER, MUSEUMNACHT.AMSTERDAM

READ MY WORLD Amsterdam’s international literature festival, Read My World, goes beyond the commonplace to explore the boundaries between literature and journalism.

Expect poets, novelists, artists and activists to come together to celebrate the contemporary voices and faces of literature and the arts.

Amsterdam Dance Event (ADE)

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he world's biggest club festival and Europe's leading electronic music conference returns to Amsterdam for 2018. Welcoming around 400,000 dance fans to the city every year, ADE offers both a conference and festival programme, and this year sees concerts from rave architects Orbital, tech-wizard Jon Hopkins and arguably the biggest DJ in the world, Martin Garrix.

17–22 OCTOBER, AMSTERDAM-DANCE-EVENT.NL

STORYTELLING FESTIVAL AMSTERDAM Expect to hear tall tales, beautiful stories, old legends and touching recitals at Amsterdam’s International Storytelling Festival, which takes place across various locations around the city.

1–4 NOVEMBER, STORYTELLINGFESTIVAL.NL

11–13 OCT, READMYWORLD.NL

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© HARRY HEUTS

Museum Night

© MAX KNEEFEL

© JOE VAN AERT

4–14 OCTOBER, AFROVIBES.NL

PAN AMSTERDAM The art, antiques and design fair PAN Amsterdam offers more than 45,000 art lovers the chance to view thousands of works over eight days. Over 100 gallery owners and art dealers exhibit paintings, antiques, jewellery, photography and furniture.

18–25 NOVEMBER, RAI AMSTERDAM, PAN.NL

RAI Amsterdam 18 — 25 November 2018

Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot Just outside Amsterdam

Fair for art, antiques and design Photo Erwin Olaf for PAN Amsterdam

Festivals & Events TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT |

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Fringe Festival

© BAS UTERWIJK

With productions at 30+ venues, Amsterdam Fringe Festival turns the entire city into a stage.

Theatres, clubs, streets, boats and living rooms stage bizarre and brilliant productions from classic theatre to comedy.

© IRIS WOUTERA DE JONG

6–16 SEPTEMBER, AMSTERDAMFRINGEFESTIVAL.NL

Amsterdam Art Weekend

ercedes Benz Amsterdam Fashion Week showcases the city's top designers, with an emphasis on emerging talent.

Its Fashion LAB programming showcases innovation and new names in the industry, with catwalk shows, workshops, lectures and presentations. And it’s not just for industry guests; tickets are also available for fashion fans who can catch glimpses of the upcoming collections during dozens of shows at Amsterdam’s Westergasfabriek.

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This four-day art event focuses on placing up-and-coming artists firmly in the spotlight, as more than 50 of the city’s art venues organise special exhibitions, performances and lectures. Several major Amsterdam institutions traditionally get involved, with De Balie, the Stedelijk Museum and EYE Filmmuseum taking part in recent years. Acclaimed art institutions such as the Rijksakademie and De Ateliers also throw open their doors to introduce visitors to the work being produced within, allowing art lovers to discover (and get their hands on) work by talented artists fresh on the scene.

6–9 SEPTEMBER, WESTERGASFABRIEK, AMSTERDAMFASHIONWEEK.NL

23–26 NOVEMBER, WEEKEND.AMSTERDAMART.COM

© DENNIS BOUMAN

Fashion Week

HERITAGE DAYSs This free event gives people free rein to explore and celebrate the city’s rich architectural history by opening up important buildings, monuments and private homes to the public. Expect remarkable buildings and stories from experts.

‘I always love Museum Night in Amsterdam. To be able to visit some of your favourite museums and places as the sun sets and night draws in is really special, and it’s the perfect opportunity to discover somewhere or something new as well.’

Jaleesah Stephens (23), child psychologist

8–9 SEPTEMBER, OPENMONUMENTENDAG.NL

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Pop & Rock

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

© GEORGE SALISBURY

44 | TEXT: RHYS ELLIOTT AND ALEX HIBBERT

The Flaming Lips

With three Grammy Awards, 14 albums and 35 years of experience under their belts, The Flaming Lips have perfected the art of alternative, psychedelic and experimental rock – with an added dash of rock opera for good measure.

Even if you’re not too keen on the music itself, there’s plenty to enjoy at this band’s elaborate live shows, which often feature confetti, massive balloons, insane lighting and even puppets.

11 NOVEMBER, MELKWEG

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VAN CANTO Now, you might assume that heavy metal and a capella don’t play well together, but you’d be wrong, and Van Canto are livin’, breathin’, rockin’ proof of that. With just six voices and a drummer, the band remarkably emulate the sounds of guitars, bass and even the odd orchestral interlude.

20 SEPTEMBER, MELKWEG

— 20 & 27 SEP SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

THE EX FESTIVAL Dutch band The Ex formed at the height of the punk explosion in 1979, releasing almost 30 albums of musical experiments and collaborations blending punk, jazz and folk. This festival sees them invite collaborators and friends from all over the world – including Ethiopia, Ghana, Kurdistan – to play at Paradiso.

ITA.NL

30 SEPTEMBER, PARADISO

THE HUMAN VOICE

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U2

Many love to hate them (and especially poor ol’ Bono), but no one can deny that U2 have had a colossal impact on the music industry. From their seminal The Joshua Tree to the more-uncharted sounds of last year’s tepid Songs of Experience, expect popular tracks from the band’s 40 years’ worth of music – for better or worse.

The twice-yearly London Calling showcases bands from all over the world. This upcoming edition features the ever-evolving and always wonderful Hookworms, Glaswegian duo Laps, and the punk-poetry of Ancient Shapes. If you buy an Indiestad pass for the festival, you can access a range of other concerts.

26–27 OCTOBER, PARADISO

In a music industry teeming with ghostwriters, blatant rip-offs and talentless beauties, Tom Misch is a breath of fresh air. He picked up more than a few tips from his beginnings as a lo-fi SoundCloud DJ, so not only does Misch’s soft voice impress, but he still produces his own tracks. The result: hip-hop-inspired beats with smoothly soulful vocals and guitar.

20 NOVEMBER, PARADISO

© EMMA TILLMAN

London Calling

Tom Misch

Father John Misty

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ndie and folk rock is the name of the game for American singer and multi-instrumentalist Josh Tillman – better known by his stage name, Father John Misty. He’s known for painting a visceral picture of emotions in his tracks – mainly love and life, tinged with dark-blues influences and sweeping orchestral arrangements. He’s currently on the road preaching his latest release, God’s Favourite Customer, so you’ll hear some new stuff.

5 NOVEMBER, PARADISO

REX ORANGE COUNTY After guest slots on Tyler the Creator’s album Flower Boy and playing live with Frank Ocean and Skepta, Surrey musician Alex O’Connor’s burgeoning popularity should come as little surprise. Indebted to everyone from King Krule to Frank Ocean and Bill Withers, this gig will be his biggest in Amsterdam yet.

CHEMICAL BROTHERS The legendary production duo visit Amsterdam after a summer of playing major festivals. Expect a thrill-ride through some of the best dance tracks of the last couple of decades plus arena-sized sounds merging electronica, rock and rap. Just remember to bring your dancing shoes.

2 OCTOBER, MELKWEG

2 OCTOBER, AFAS LIVE

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© ERIC DE REDELIJKHEID VIA FLICKR

7–8 OCTOBER, ZIGGO DOME

CARO EMERALD Amsterdam-born pop and jazz singer Caroline Esmeralda van der Leeuw has sold millions of records all over the world and broken multiple sales records in her home country. Her music blends retro jazz with modern pop and Emerald’s spectacular voice.

9 NOVEMBER, AFAS LIVE

LGBTI

3X NYX is one of the most popular LGBTI nights in Amsterdam. Expect a range of music, including pop, house, hip-hop, R&B and even a few ’90s guilty pleasures.

46 | TEXT: RHYS ELLIOTT

Bitch Fight

© JULIAN BEUSKER

Bitch Fight pits two of the biggest artists against each other in a sudden-death music and drag battle. This time it’s Beyoncé vs Rihanna, so pick your team, master your moves and don your deadliest diva outfit.

Rapido Anniversary Edition

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or 13 years, Rapido has been Amsterdam’s biggest LGBTI circuit party, taking place in the city’s beautiful converted church-turnedconcert-hall, Paradiso. Guys and gals come in huge numbers from all over

Europe – all to get sassy and sweaty dancing to the hottest international DJs’ beats.

Rapido sells out quickly, so be sure to get your tickets in advance if you want to join the fun on this extra-special edition.

Expect a lip-sync challenge, a dance-off and – of course – a catwalk round. In the words of RuPaul: ‘gentleman, start your engines, and may the best woman win.’

18 NOVEMBER, PARADISO

22 SEPTEMBER, CLUB NYX

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PATHÉ GAY MOVIE NIGHT Every month, Pathé De Munt screens a special gay movie. Arrive half an hour before the film starts to enjoy a drink at the reception. There’s also a chance to win DVD packages.

Check the Pathé website (pathe.nl/event/gaynight) for more information.

A LITTLE LIFE —

27 SEP SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

MELLOW MONDAY Recharge after a hectic weekend by getting pampered on Mellow Monday.

This weekly event is the perfect way to relax and recuperate, featuring free foot and shoulder massages, dry and steam saunas, juices and smoothies, snacks and scrubs.

EVERY MONDAY, SAUNA NZ

EVERY FIRST WEDNESDAY OF EVERY MONTH, PATHÉ DE MUNT

Dvořák Vioolconcert Sat 13, Mon 15 October Royal Concertgebouw www.orkest.nl

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TEXT: ALEX HIBBERT | 47

Orbital

ENCORE

Amsterdam’s premier hip-hop and R&B night plays everything from old-school tracks to the newest beats around. Every Saturday, expect to hear everything from classic hits to newer tracks – as well as some incredible live performances.

EVERY SATURDAY, MELKWEG

AMF Amsterdam

AMF has established itself as one of the biggest dance music events of the year, taking place in Amsterdam’s largest stadium, the Johan Cruiff Arena. That means tens of thousands of music lovers dancing to sets by some of the most famous names in EDM.

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fter a live reunion which saw them play dates around the world in 2017, the forefathers of electronic music are back for good, and even releasing new music. Having shared a stage with Stephen Hawking, remixed Madonna and played huge concerts all over the world, Orbital really have done it all, or at least most of it. For this special Amsterdam Dance Event concert, Paul and Phil Hartnoll visit Amsterdam’s Paradiso.

20 OCTOBER, JOHAN CRUIFF ARENA

19 OCTOBER, PARADISO

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HARDWELL @ METROPOLE ORKEST At this unique all ages Amsterdam Dance Event show, the Metropole Orkest and world-famous DJ Hardwell will take the audience on a musical journey through the history of dance music, from its rise in the 80s to the mega clubs of the present day.

18 OCTOBER, ZIGGO DOME

Brahms

Vioolconcert

Sat 10, Mon 11 November Royal Concertgebouw www.orkest.nl

‘Everyone knows the big EDM acts, but there’s loads of great underground talent here in Amsterdam, so I would recommend people go to De School or Shelter or any of the more underground clubs. That’s where all the locals go and the music is great, so it’s always a brilliant experience.’

Jose Woldring (31), Founder and CEO of The Media Nanny PR agency, who represent Martin Garrix, David Guetta and Disclosure

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International Documentary Film Festival

On Screen

IDFA.NL

48 | TEXT: RHYS ELLIOTT

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West Beach Film Festival

Are you a film lover on a budget? Look no further than West Beach Film Festival, which boasts a selection of top films screened outdoors next to the Sloterplasbad swimming pool – all completely free! Grab a drink and a snack

and settle in for some movie magic, whether it be a silver-screen classic or a blockbuster new release. This event typically fills up quickly, so grab a seat early to avoid disappointment.

13–23 SEPTEMBER, NOORDZIJDE 41

On the Roof Film Festival

The clue’s in the name at this film fest, which gives movie goers a chance to watch topnotch flicks from the lofty heights of the VU University rooftop. Needless to say, the view is spectacular.

5–9 SEPTEMBER, DE BOELELAAN 1105

CELLO AND FILM Coinciding with the largest cello festival in the world, Cello and Film brings silver-screen classics to life with live cello music.

Believe us: silent films set to a soundtrack of live cello music take on a mesmeri­ sing new quality.

20–26 SEPTEMBER, EYE FILMMUSEUM

CAMERA JAPAN One of the largest multidisciplinary Japanese cultural festivals in Europe, Camera Japan mixes film, art, music and food. Primarily a film festival celebrating Japanese cinema, as well as its selection of features, shorts and Japanese anime films, look out for live performances, lectures and other activities.

PAROOL FILM FEST If you want to catch the latest arthouse films before anyone else, Parool Film Fest is the event for you.

The meticulous film selection features titles that turned heads at the world’s best-known indie film fests: Berlin, Cannes, Venice and Toronto.

10–14 OCTOBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

5–7 OCTOBER, KRITERION

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ocumentary film festivals don’t get much bigger than this.

The International Documentary Film Festival Amsterdam (IDFA) treats documentary lovers to the latest domestic and international arrivals from the documentary film world. No other festival brings together so many great films, devoted fans and talented film makers in one place, which is exactly why IDFA is one of the world’s leading documentary film festivals.

14–25 NOVEMBER, VARIOUS LOCATIONS

KLIK KLIK is an animation lover’s dream, boasting a programme of top-notch animated films, video games masterclasses, themed showings, special guests and parties. Who knows?

You may even catch a glimpse of the next Pixar.

10–15 OCTOBER, EYE FILMMUSEUM

RCO Opening Night

The Royal Concertgebouw Orchestra opens the new season with its now traditional black-tie extravaganza. It features a romantic programme: Berlioz’ concert overture ‘Le carnaval romain’ starts proceedings, and later, Mendelssohn’s Italian Symphony is complimented by charming bits of Italian opera. But the highlight of the evening undoubtedly comes when Evgeny Kissin performs Liszt’s First Piano Concerto in his first return to the Concertgebouw since 1994.

TEXT: SARAH ZARETTI | 49

Cello Biennale

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his festival puts the glorious cello where it belongs: in the spotlight. This year’s edition has a special focus on New York composers’ trio Bang on a Can – all three members have created new works for the festival. In addition to the Biennale’s many concerts, presentations and workshops, an extra mini festival – the Cellofest at neighbouring Bimhuis – provides a home for excursions to jazz, pop, world music and the ‘cello underground’ scene.

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© ANNE DOKTER

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

Classical

18–27 OCTOBER, MUZIEKGEBOUW AAN ’T IJ

Klassiek op het Amstelveld

This free annual open-air festival on the Amstelveld is all in the spirit of providing a broader audience with the opportunity to enjoy classical music.

The programme features promising young soloists, ensembles, choirs and orchestras performing alongside established names.

14 SEPTEMBER, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

15 SEPTEMBER, AMSTELVELD

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ˇ BRAHMS AND DVOCÁK Violinist Alena Baeva joins the Netherlands Philharmonic Orchestra for Dvočák’s Violin Concerto in A minor. Brahms’ Second Symphony – his sunniest – is also on the programme.

FROM THE LIFE OF MARIONETTES

13 & 15 OCTOBER, ROYAL CONCERTGEBOUW

— 18, 25 OCT SURTITLED IN ENGLISH ITA.NL

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BACH AND SUFI The Netherlands Wind Ensemble combines Bach and classical Persian music in an unusual programme that features singer Haleh Seyfizadeh, Ali Ghamsari on the tar, David Mackor on the theorbo, and soprano Elisabeth Hetherington.

13 NOVEMBER, PARADISO

For full listings of what’s on in Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com/ whats-on

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50 | TEXT: MEGAN WATERS AND DAVID WILLS

ARTIS Planetarium

Explore the solar system and stars, experience what it’s like to be an astronaut, or embark on a space journey across the galaxy at the ARTIS Planetarium. Located in ARTIS park, the 628 square-metre dome lets visitors young and old encounter our world in a new way. Each 30-minute performance is suitable for children aged four and up.

OPEN DAILY, PLANTAGE KERKLAAN 38-40

Turn on the Lights

Cinekid he world’s largest media festival for kids focuses on film, television and digital culture for children aged 3–14. Attendees of the 10-day festival can watch new, unusual and striking films and TV productions, meet their creators and explore the MediaLab interactive exhibition that features art installations, workshops, games and apps. Organised by the Cinekid Foundation, the organisation actively involves children in high-quality media to help guide their development, learn how to view media critically, and expand their world view. The popular event attracts over 65,000 children, parents and professionals.

Amsterdam’s iconic department store de Bijenkorf kicks the festive season off in style each year with its brilliant light display on the façade of the majestic de Bijenkorf building. The spectacular show features fantastic fireworks adding to the warm party feel of this fun, and free, evening out for the whole family. And don’t forget de Bijenkorf’s centrepiece Christmas tree on view from December.

20–26 OCTOBER, WESTERGASFABRIEK

FROM MID-NOVEMBER, DAM 1

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Rachmaninoff Pianoconcert

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Sat 15, Sun 16 September Royal Concertgebouw

HET TWISKE Just north of Amsterdam between Zaanstad and Purmerend, you’ll find recreational area Het Twiske.

It’s the perfect place for a picnic and where you can hire an assortment of boats.

There’s nothing like an enjoyable day out in nature.

JEUGDLAND This free adventure park offers hours of outdoor play for kids up to the age of 14.

Amsterdam’s largest nature playground and children’s workshop lets kids play, discover, research and build.

Bring a change of clothes, as things can get muddy!

OPEN DAILY, NOORDERLAAIK 1

OPEN TUESDAY–SUNDAY, VALENTIJNKADE 131

Tsjaikovski Souvenir de Florence Sat 6, Sun 7 October Royal Concertgebouw www.orkest.nl

www.orkest.nl

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Petting zoos

Amsterdam Dungeon

© EDWIN VAN EIS

Kids love critters so why not visit one of Amsterdam’s many petting zoos? It’s a great opportunity for kids to make new farmyard friends and get a taste of the countryside. Close to town is De Pijp petting zoo with goats, rabbits and other small farm animals, and further afield at ’t Brinkje you’ll find larger ones such as turkeys, sheep, donkeys and peacocks.

Five hundred years of Amsterdam’s darkest history is brought to life with 13 shows and 10 actors in one terrifying – and hilarious – experience. Walk through the vaults of the dungeon with theatrical actors; witness special effects; and experience scenes to see, smell, listen and be afraid. Don’t miss the new Forest of the Dead show – take a stroll through Amsterdam’s gallows field and try to escape alive.

OPEN DAILY, ROKIN 78

NEMO Science Museum

New exhibits at NEMO are always exciting, and so it is with Life in the Universe. Journey deep into the far corners of the universe to see and learn about stars that are billions of years old, to find out which planets may just be able to support life, and to learn all about the tiny particles that make up the universe and ourselves. Fascinating stuff.

TunFun

You may not expect to find a huge underground play park for kids in the centre of Amsterdam, but if you follow the sound of sheer joy you’ll soon discover it.

The recently reopened TunFun has everything to keep kids of all ages entertained.

Think soft-play constructions, ball pools for tiny tots and full-on jungle gyms for more adventurous older kids. Plus trampolines and a Blackbox to find your way out of.

OPEN TUESDAY–SUNDAY, OOSTERDOK 2

Amsterdam DNA

This free hour-long tour at the Amsterdam Museum gives kids an exciting overview of the history of Amsterdam. Based on the

four core values of entrepreneurship, free-thinking, citizenship and creativity, and divided into seven periods, kids aged four and up can learn all about the city’s fascinating story.

OPEN WEEKENDS AND SOME HOLIDAYS, MENEER VISSERPLEIN 7

OPEN DAILY, KALVERSTRAAT 92

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PANCAKE BOAT Combine a meal and a boat ride along the River IJ to keep children both fed and entertained. This picturesque 75-minute boat ride features all-you-can-eat Dutch pancakes, a ball pit and a quieter upper deck area for adults to enjoy the passing scenery.

OPEN FRIDAY–SUNDAY, MS. VAN RIEMSDIJKWEG 33

NATIONAL MARITIME MUSEUM Explore 500 years of maritime history and discover how the sea has shaped Dutch culture. Interactive exhibitions such as The Tale of the Whale and See You in the Golden Age are great for kids, while the replica 18th-century Dutch East India Company ship is a hit.

THE WOOD

— 8 NOV SURTITLED IN ENGLISH

OPEN DAILY, KATTENBURGERPLEIN 1

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T H E DIA MON D E X PE R I E NC E Admire the art of diamond polishing in Amsterdam GASSAN Diamonds, is located in a beautiful restored originally steam driven diamond factory and was built in 1879. In 2013 more than 400.000 visitors had a tour through the magnificent diamond factory and in 2013 GASSAN also has been declared Best Family Business in the Netherlands by the Family Enterprise Foundation in partnership with KPMG. Let a tour of GASSAN Diamonds be the highlight of your trip; - free guided tours - tours 7 days a week, all year round from 9.00 a.m. till 5.00 p.m.

- personal attention for individuals and groups - exclusive in-house Rolex boutique - diamonds mounted while you wait - large jewelry and watch collection on premises with brands such as Chopard, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Longines, Omega, Choices by DL and GASSAN 121 - parking for tour buses and mooring site - VAT refund for non EU residents GASSAN Diamonds Head Quarter, in the middle of Amsterdam

GASSAN 121 More than 10 years ago, at the family operated GASSAN Diamonds, perfecting the brilliant cut (also known as the Amsterdam Cut) resulted in the development of a breathtaking new cut with 121 facets: the GASSAN 121.

Following years of research, a new breathtaking cut for a diamond with 121 facets for the pinnacle in reflection was finally developed. Compared with the traditional brilliant cut, the GASSAN 121 has an additional 16 facets on the top and an additional Watchmaker

Goldsmith & diamonds polisher

48 facets on the underside of the diamond. The result is the ultimate in brilliance.

In other words: perfect beauty.

T O A R R A N G E Y O U R T O U R : W W W. G A S S A N . C O M GASSAN Diamonds Nwe. Uilenburgerstraat 173 - 175 1011 LN Amsterdam | GASSAN Dam Square Rokin 1-5 (Dam) 1012 KK Amsterdam GASSAN Boutique P.C. Hooftstraat 84 1071 CB Amsterdam | GASSAN Schiphol Dep. Lounges 1,2,3,4 & Arrivalhall 3 Schiphol Airport

City Guide

54 West 59 Zuid 60 Oost 61 Noord 62 Centre

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods

Westergasfabriek

Fifteen years ago, the old gas factories by leafy Westerpark were rehabbed and transformed into an edgy urban venue. Today, the Westergasfabriek is one of the city’s cultural powerhouses, overflowing with entertainment venues, pop-up shops, and hip cafés and eateries.

PAZZANISTRAAT 33 WESTERGASFABRIEK.NL

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West

54 | text: TEXT Karin AND Engelbrecht PHOTOS: MARIE-CHARLOTTE PEZÉ

Het Ketelhuis

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Melt-in-your-mouth pork ribs at Pendergast Smokehouse, one of the most authentic BBQ joints in the city.

GROEN VAN PRINSTERERSTRAAT 14 PENDERGAST.NL

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Rebirth A traditionally residential West now thrives on its multicultural and independent flair.

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riginally developed as a residential area for working-class families, West is a prime example of how much Amsterdam has revitalised its neighbourhoods outside of the Canal Belt. Right where the centre dissolves into residential West, odd-couple Westerpark and Westergasfabriek form a peaceful yet thrilling oasis of nature and entertainment.

Fifteen years ago, the old gas factories by leafy Westerpark were rehabbed and transformed into an edgy urban venue. Today, the Westergasfabriek is one of the city’s cultural powerhouses, overflowing with entertainment venues, pop-up shops, and hip cafés and eateries. It also hosts a slew of world-famous festivals, such as Unseen Amsterdam where contemporary photography is in the spotlight from 21–23 September.

In with the old (and new) In the same vein, tranquil OudWest has recently come out of

its residential snooze with the development of De Hallen Kwartier, home to gargantuan gourmet Foodhallen, indie cultural venues, and vintage or designer shops that boast a potent appeal for the younger, hipster crowds. Few visitors ever cross the Canal Belt into Oud-West, and it’s a darn shame – even though some locals would probably argue that that’s exactly why their neighbourhood has reached such an ideal balance of vitality and tranquillity. Oud-West may not be as lovely as the Jordaan or as lively as the Leidseplein, but it’s a bit like their perfect lovechild.

‘I love it. All these new shops are opening, and it feels like a friendly extension of the Nine Streets,’ says local resident Sara Wever. She enjoys the colourful diversity of local market Ten Katemarkt just as much as the bizarre tapestry that Jan Pieter Heijestraat has become, with its local laundromats and

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‘I come to Westerpark almost every day and sit by the canal to enjoy the water, or to have a picnic on sunny days. And there is always something great going on at the Westergasfabriek: a festival, a fair, a party.

I love this place so much.’

Fatima Zahra Nouzi (27), stylist

West 56 | HIPSTER HEAVEN

hardware shops now welcoming designer boutiques as their new neighbours.

The wild, wild west

As the area’s popularity redefines the limits of what feels like the city’s centre, the tentacles of this rebirth continue to spread outwards. BoLo (Bos en Lommer, whose moniker is a sure-fire sign that the hipsters have moved in) and De Baarsjes harbour marvels of Amsterdamse School architecture: take a walk along Hoofdweg or stop at Mercatorplein to admire the rounded angles and sometimes brutalist shapes of the famous school of design. Even the forgotten Nieuw-West – where the charm of Amsterdam’s centre fades into blocks of row-housing development – cultivates its multicultural heritage with a renewed social soul and worldly flair. The neighbourhoods’ unexpected popularity with families,

students and internationals is so great that they receive national funding for the improvement of infrastructure and liveability. The result is intelligent, pleasant city planning which, even in those densely residential areas, respects their vast green expanses like Erasmuspark and Rembrandtpark. Today, these traditionally working-class, immigrant districts are becoming thriving nerve centres, thanks to a new generation of all-in-one hotspots such as De School or Podium Mozaïek – which are at once clubs, cafés, exhibition/performance spaces and creative breeding grounds.

Gentrification and urban rehabilitation have done wonders for Amsterdam West, where new trends are smoothly marrying history and where the population’s diversity (with 175 nationalities represented) ensures that every neighbourhood grows with an edgy, colourful charm.

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‘So many independent designer shops have opened in Oud-West in recent years, it feels like a friendly and less crowded extension of the Nine Streets.’

Sara Wever (26), works in hospitality

For more information on Amsterdam West, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Het Ketelhuis With a programme of world music, theatre, cabaret and dance, Podium Mozaïek celebrates cultural diversity in 1001 ways (including participation in the Storytelling Festival from 1–4 November). With a short but sweet menu, the theatre café’s fare is fresh and delicious; during the weekends, it serves a traditional Turkish breakfast from 10 am until 3 pm.

This staple art-house cinema of Amsterdam not only shows the latest national productions but many European films, American documentaries, and other international and independent filmmaking jewels. Their brightly lit hall doubles as a café, so you can enjoy some delicious coffee and carrot cake (and free wifi!) while waiting for show time.

BOS EN LOMMERWEG 191 PODIUMMOZAIEK.NL

WESTERGASFABRIEK, PAZZANISTRAAT 4 KETELHUIS.NL

Podium Mozaïek

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De Italiaan © MONIQUE WIJBRANDS / SALT YSTOCK

This pretty – and romantic, in a non-ostentatious way – little trattoria, which sits on a quiet, tree-lined corner of Oud-West, is no regular pizza joint. Their wood-oven pies are generously garnished with the most flavourful mozzarella, pecorino or mascarpone; adorned with perfectly roasted vegetables, and paper-thin slices of melt-in-yourmouth cold cuts imported from Italy. Save some room for their heavenly pillow of homemade pannacotta.

BOSBOOM TOUSSAINTSTRAAT 29 DEITALIAAN.COM

Wilde Westen

One of the best foodie hangouts in BoLo, this secret gem is hidden in the basement of an ugly modern development.

Its delicious menu offers breakfasts, sandwiches, salads and tasty wood-fired pizzas, and their communal table makes for quick new friends. They also have a row of washing machines in case you need to run a load of laundry between two cocktails.

BOS EN LOMMERPLANTSOEN 1 WILDE-WESTEN.NL

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West 58 | HIPSTER HEAVEN BoLo/De Baarsjes

A couple of decades back, Bos en Lommer (nicknamed BoLo) was somewhere you’d avoid – especially if you were alone at night. Now, together with its neighbour De Baarsjes, it’s become a destination in its own right. You can eat Moroccan food at Meneer de Wit Heeft Honger, play board games at Restaurant Van de Buurt (literally ‘from the neighbourhood’), get creative at Het Sieraad, shop designer wares on

‘We come here to train because there's so much space. It's really a great park with lots of different areas, and that is perfect for parkour.’

Angelo Chiorescu (10), student

Jan Evertsenstraat, browse the art galleries of Witte de Withstraat, eat/dance/exercise at cultural breeding ground De School, and even become an upcoming artist in residence at WOW. Take a walk on the wild west side.

Nieuw-West

Nieuw-West may feel like a forlorn, post-communist landscape, but don’t be fooled. Young students, immigrant families and energetic entrepreneurs are attracted to the cheaper rents, and the city’s urban planners are hard at work re-developing the area to fit Amsterdam’s new mantra: more green and pedestrian spaces, more community-oriented areas, better transportation networks, and a formidable eco-conscious drive.

The result? Hip festivals, lively street markets, concept cafés, trendy restaurants and cultural hotspots like Lola Luid and VLLA.

WOW

WOW’s low ceilings and lighting may give it an underground parking-garage feel, but the huge complex combines a hostel with an artist-in-residency programme for 50 young creatives from Amsterdam's art institutes. But that’s not all: its rich cultural agenda and affordable restaurant mean that visitors, Amsterdammers and artists can convene and converse at exhibitions, performances and workshops.

WILTZANGHLAAN 60 WWW.WOW-AMSTERDAM.NL

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Foodhallen

It took three years to rehabilitate the old tram depot that houses this gourmet food court, but it was well worth the wait.

Wood-oven pizza? Fresh lobster? Gourmet burgers? Poké bowls? French pastries? They have it all: the perfect place to bring a difficult date, even if the communal tables don’t make for great intimacy.

Sloterplas

BELLAMYPLEIN 51 FOODHALLEN.NL

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Zuid

For more information on Amsterdam Zuid, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

CLASSY MEETS CULTURAL

The repository of the city’s classical culture and luxury shopping.

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The Golden Child

T

he crown jewel of Zuid (South) is the Museumplein, where the Rijksmuseum presides, flaunting 800 years of Dutch art and history.

It’s also home to the Van Gogh Museum, Stedelijk Museum and Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCO); and right across the street, the Royal Concertgebouw.

Just off Museumplein lies Oud-Zuid (Old South), a posh neighbourhood with such a privileged flair that the locals have nicknamed it ‘the reservation’. Luxury designer shopping is Old South’s main sex appeal, from flashy P.C. Hooftstraat to classy Willemsparkweg. Zuid also has its own Latin Quarter, De Pijp, where trendy cafés and edgy shops abound.

Gelderlandplein

Amsterdam’s biggest mall is smack in the middle of ZuidasBuitenveldert, with a vast array of luxury shopping and dining options. Fashion boutiques, shoes, jewellery, beauty products and home decor abound.

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VAN LEIJENBERGHLAAN 43 GELDERLANDPLEIN.NL

Café Loetje

This large corner café is mostly all about steaks.

Normal steaks, steaks of indecent proportions, steaks marinated with spices, steaks bathing in fatty juices. Café Loetje is so popular that seven more restaurants have opened throughout the city, but this location is the one with the grit and authenticity of its original billiard-playing days.

JOHANNES VERMEERSTRAAT 52 LOETJE.NL

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‘I work in Oud-Zuid and it’s a posh neighbourhood, but lovely and quiet too. I enjoy the cafés and restaurants, especially those with big terraces, like George WPA. And I love getting a cup from CoffeeConcepts on Jacob Obrechtstraat.’

Sanne van Hai (36), works in marketing

Oost

For more information on Amsterdam Oost, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

60 | CULTURAL MELTING POT

The embodiment of Amsterdam’s multicultural fame, Oost bangs to the beat of its own colourful drum.

Melting Pot

O

ost (East) is the epitome of Amsterdam’s incredible diversity; and not only in population, but also in its huge variety of architecture – from the 19th-century residential areas of Oud-Oost (Old East) to the awe-inspiring feats of modernity on the Eastern Docklands. Its cultural offerings are also lively and diverse: home to the Tropenmuseum, one of Europe’s leading anthropological museums, and Muziekgebouw aan ’t IJ, the temple of modern classical and jazz music.

It thrives on its multi-disciplinary venues, such as sustainability nerve centre Pakhuis de Zwijger, Mecca of storytelling Mezrab, and the Lloyd Hotel and Cultural Embassy. Last but not least, it’s not short on cafés, bars and restaurants.

Pols Potten

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‘The Eastern Docklands are just a few minutes by public transportation, and it’s worth the detour. People are very friendly here; we get a lot of locals on the terrace on nice days.’

Nothing to do with the infamous Cambodian leader: the founder of Pols Potten is simply called Erik Pol. He started importing terracotta pots from Spain 30 years ago, and his warehouse-like flagship store is a reference in unconventional, colourful design homeware – especially, well… pots.

KNSM-LAAN 39 POLSPOTTEN.NL

Boiboi

This unassuming restaurant at a quiet corner of Dapperstraat is revered by many as one of the best Thai places in Amsterdam. The fast and friendly service is only topped by the food’s delectable flavours and textures: try the monkey balls, or the phenomenal renditions of favourite classics, such as Pad Thai with a homemade tamarind sauce, and an excellent green curry that’ll take the roof off your mouth.

Timothy Bakker (33), waiter at The Harbour Club

DAPPERSTRAAT 12 BOIBOI.NL

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For more information on Amsterdam Noord, check out the Neighbourhood Guides on our website: iamsterdam.com/ neighbourhoods

Noord

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THE BOHEMIAN REBEL

Smaaqt

This innocuous hotspot has promptly stolen the throne for best BBQ ribs in the city. Its cosy interior, decorated with warm woods, bricks and leather, will have you plop down and devour the racks smoked on the old-time grill that sits in their backyard, where you can enjoy a juicy pulled-pork sandwich on the last sunny days of the year.

VAN DER PEKSTRAAT 79 SMAAQT.NL

A’DAM Tower With its creative post-industrial vibe and vast green expanses, Noord is a jolt out of classic Amsterdam.

The Other Side

The tower’s 360-degree Look Out observation deck has an unparalleled view over all of Amsterdam, and sports a giant over-the-edge swing for thrill-seekers.

Panoramic restaurant MA’DAM on the top floor becomes a sky-bar at night; revolving restaurant Moon throws music shindigs; and if you want to stay the night, there’s also urban boutique hotel Sir Adam.

OVERHOEKSPLEIN 1, ADAMTOREN.NL

A

quick ferry-ride across the River IJ and Amsterdam’s harbour, Noord was strategic during the Golden Age of Dutch trade, and later became a substantial industrial district. Today it’s grown into the much-revered bastion of Amsterdam’s alternative culture, having refurbished many old shipping warehouses to host trendy eateries like Stork and Hotel de Goudfazant, cultural venues such as Tolhuistuin, exhibition and performance spaces, artist studios – or all of these at once such as Café de Ceuvel. From there, the district spreads all the way to quaint villages such as Uitdam or Broek in Waterland, crossing a flurry of beautiful parks, village-like suburbia and wide swathes of nature. But don’t let that tranquillity fool you: Noord is full of surprises, like the rebellious NDSM Wharf, further west along the IJ. Two decades ago, art pioneer Eva de Klerk spied the potential of NDSM and created Kunststad (Art City), a breeding ground for creatives who launched the area’s reputation as the unruly nerve centre of Amsterdam’s indie art scene.

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‘I love Noord. I take the boat and leave the busy city behind to find this little village where there’s so much going on – artists, restaurants, cafés.’

Elisa Achterberg (33), works in the circular economy

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Centre 62 | FULL OF CONTRASTS

The centre of Amsterdam is a love story between the city’s historical culture and its innovative, avant-garde spirit.

The Red Carpet

I

ts cosmopolitan-yet-quaint village feel defines Amsterdam Centre’s personality: it’s all about contrasts. The Red Light District itself is one big dichotomy, with a 12th-century church and romantic bridges as the backdrop for tawdry windows displaying intimate body parts – real or rubber. All the hubbub makes it hard to differentiate the tourist traps from the genuine, but the latter is there if you look a little closer. Gone are the souvenir shops as soon as you cross the Singel to the Nine Streets, where Dutch fashion designers show off their innovative skills. A few steps further and the flowery Jordaan welcomes you to Amsterdam’s real life, with its bustling markets and lively cafés. And if you head east instead of west, past the flea market on Waterlooplein (where you’ll find vintage treasures as well as cheap souvenirs), you’ll step into the deceptively peaceful Plantage, home not only to the famous ARTIS Royal Zoo and the enchanting Hortus botanical gardens, but also a thrumming cultural life including the Jewish Cultural Quarter, the Hermitage Amsterdam Museum, Royal Theatre Carré, the Kriterion cinema – and a slew of exceptional bars and restaurants.

Vesper Bar

Calling Vesper a bar almost seems like an insult – it’s more like a church of cocktails. As hushed and velvety as the decor, the atmosphere is swanky without being snobbish: the perfect cocoon for a little sweet-talking on rainy days. If you are in an adventurous mood and prefer to ignore the extensive menu, the dapper bartenders will expertly design (and shake) a custom concoction just for you.

VINKENSTRAAT 57, VESPERBAR.NL

ARTIS Royal Zoo

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ARTIS boasts more than 900 animal species amidst flowering gardens and landmark buildings. Among the recently opened exhibitions are Micropia, the exquisitely interactive microbe museum; the jaguar enclosure; and the brand new, spacious elephant playground, crossed by a pedestrian bridge from which visitors can admire the pachyderms roaming around.

‘A lot of visitors ask me to drive them to prostitutes and coffee shops, but there’s so much more than that to the Red Light District.’

PLANTAGE KERKLAAN 38-40, ARTIS.NL

Cristian Sandu (31), tricycle driver

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Day Trips Discover the Amsterdam area

64 Haarlem 68 Old Holland 69 New Land 71 Castles and Gardens 72 Beaches 73 Flowers 74 Alkmaar 76 Beyond Amsterdam

Zaandam

Get your camera out for the Inntel Hotel, designed to look like a street’s worth of Zaan cottages stacked on top of each other, shared across the world by tourists and architecture enthusiasts alike.

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Haarlem

64 | TEXT: VICKY HAMPTON

Haarlem City of Culture With two of Haarlem’s leading theatres celebrating big anniversaries this year, autumn 2018 is the perfect season to kick off a series of events celebrating the city’s cultural prowess.

A

msterdam’s closest neighbour, Haarlem, is known not only for its dining and shopping options, but also for its culture.

So it’s no coincidence that from September onwards, Haarlem is celebrating its cultural heritage throughout the city.

The Haarlem Culture Festival on 8 and 9 September is the opening of the cultural season in Haarlem. For two days, the city buzzes with performances, films, workshops and exhibitions in fields as diverse as theatre, dance, performance art, music, literature and everything in between. Plus, most activities are free to attend! The festival falls at the same time as Open Monumentendag (Heritage Day), which means that around 80 historical monuments will be playing host to various small concerts, all of which are open to the public.

But there’s more. Theatres Stadsschouwburg and Toneelschuur are celebrating their 100th and 50th anniversaries respectively, with a whole line-up of performances on offer. And Haarlem’s museums are getting in on the act, too. At the start of October, a collection of works by Leonardo da Vinci is being brought together in the Teylers Museum. While paintings by Manet and Van Gogh are traveling to the Frans Hals Museum for a one-of-a-kind exhibition.

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Haarlem's coat of arms: the city's motto is Vicit vim virtus (Latin for virtue conquered violence).

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Gala Evening at the Stadsschouwburg

From 23 until 28 September, the Stadsschouwburg theatre kicks off the celebration of its 100-year existence with a week-long party: the Bonte Gala Evening. Renowned cabaret artists and singers, including Erik van Muiswinkel, Brigitte Kaandorp, Veldhuis & Kemper, Jan J. Pieterse and Mylou Frencken, are part of a super line-up of old hits, new acts, unique combinations and true sing-along tunes about Haarlem, its people, and of course the centenarian Grand Old Lady (the Stadsschouwburg’s nickname) herself. This is one party that’ll raise the roof.

THEATER-HAARLEM.NL

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66 | AMSTERDAM’S CLOSEST NEIGHBOUR

In 2019, it will be exactly 500 years since the death of Leonardo da Vinci. So from 5 October 2018 until 6 January 2019, Teylers Museum in Haarlem will be ushering in a worldwide Da Vinci year with exhibitions, symposia and other activities to mark this important anniversary. With loans from cities including London, Turin, Paris, Budapest and Florence, the museum is organising an impressive exhibition with works by the great Italian master, the vast majority of which have never before been seen in the Netherlands. The museum will exhibit over 30 original drawings, with the focus on the human emotions expressed in the artist’s work. Da Vinci was the first of his time to pluck ‘real’ people from the street to serve as his models, and to portray them with all their varied emotional expressions.

TEYLERSMUSEUM.NL

Toneelschuur’s golden jubilee

To celebrate the Toneelschuur’s 50th anniversary, the theatre is organising a special programme of events from October 2018 until May 2019. These include activities that allow you to get to know theatre makers, learn how to watch a play, or get started working on a theatre script or choreography yourself.

There will also be jubilee performances to come and enjoy.

TONEELSCHUUR.NL/JUBILEUM

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© KEES HAGEMAN

Da Vinci at the Teylers Museum

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Take Me to Church The Netherlands has a long history of converting churches into cultural spaces, and Take Me to Church is just one such initiative. Between 18 and 21 October, you’ll be able to catch pop music concerts at various historical churches throughout the city. Spinvis plays in the Nieuwe Kerk; Maaike Ouboter plays in the Groenmarktkerk; and electronic piano duo Grandbrothers play in the Haarlemse Doopsgezinde Kerk.

© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

PATRONAAT.NL

The Black Madonna

Frans Hals and the Moderns

The revamped Frans Hals Museum in Haarlem (free with the I amsterdam City Card) is staging a blockbuster exhibition from 13 October 2018 until 24 February 2019: Frans Hals and the Moderns. It is 150 years since Frans Hals was redefined – from profligate drunkard to artistic icon. With around 50 loans from museums all over the world, the exhibition reflects the huge impact that Hals had on 19th-century painters like Manet, Liebermann, Singer Sargent and Van Gogh, all of whom expressed their admiration for him. For the first time, his paintings will be set against responses to his work by artists painting in the Modernist era, revealing just how progressive Frans Hals was. The atmosphere of the exhibition can be summed up by its tagline: ‘Frans Hals, c’est un moderne’.

FRANSHALSMUSEUM.NL/EN/EVENT/

From 15 September until 14 October, De Zwarte Madonna (The Black Madonna) exhibition takes place at the Grote of SintBavokerk (Haarlem’s biggest church) and De Vishal (a cultural space), featuring 10 artists whose work forms part of her legend.

The dominant colour of the exhibition is black. Five young alumni from the famous Rietveld Academy are supplying installation pieces, while five other artists are providing images – all of which should initiate discussion about prejudice, tolerance and interpretation.

FRANS-HALS-AND-THE-MODERNS

DEVISHAL.NL

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Old Holland

68 | TRUE DUTCH HERITAGE

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

More than Cheese & Windmills The traditional Dutch villages north of Amsterdam are beautifully preserved. But Zaandam offers a different kind of heritage with its iconic modern style. Autumn is the perfect time to visit both.

Zaans Museum

Take a fascinating journey from the very first windmills and green wooden houses to modern factories, and admire traditional Dutch paintings, costumes and artefacts – all at the Zaans Museum in Zaanse Schans. At the heart of the museum is the Verkade Experience, a chocolate and biscuit factory. A treat for young and old alike, the Verkade Experience takes you back to the early 20th century, where the original machines are still churning away. Want to get involved? Design your own wrapper for a customized Verkade chocolate bar, or join in the games and pretend to be a chocolate expert.

ZAANSMUSEUM.NL

In recent years, City Centre Zaandam has undergone a true metamorphosis, and is one of the Zaanstreek’s flagships: a vibrant centre and a unique combination of shopping and entertainment, culture and history. Get your camera out for the Inntel Hotel, designed to look like a street’s worth of Zaan cottages stacked on top of each other, shared across the world by tourists and architecture enthusiasts alike. Visit the Tsar Peter House (Czaar Peterhuisje): one of the oldest wooden cottages surviving in the Netherlands, it’s where the Russian Tsar Peter the Great used to stay when visiting the Netherlands to learn more about the Dutch shipbuilding industry.

ZAANSMUSEUM.NL/EN/TSAR-PETER-HOUSE

© BOGDAN MIGULSKI

City Centre Zaandam

Zaanboulevard The banks of the most beautiful stretch of the River Zaan are lovingly dubbed the ‘Zaanboulevard’ by locals. In Wormerveer, this riverside promenade is perfect for taking a stroll or relaxing on a terrace. All back-dropped by a majestic view of beautifully restored warehouses whose names hark back to the East Indies. Each piece of heritage tells its story of the Zaanstreek’s illustrious past.

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Beemster and Purmerend The historic Dutch towns of Beemster and Purmerend are playing host to a whole range of events throughout the autumn. Be sure to catch the Nazomerfeestweek Purmerend from 8–17 September, celebrating the end of summer with plenty of Old Holland traditions, including the livestock and cheese market. Also not to be missed is the Soundbites Festival Monnickendam on 22 September, a wonderful evening of music, eating and drinking. Or celebrate Oktoberfest on the evenings of 5 and 6 October at beer café De Bonte Koe in Purmerend. Finally, take a culinary tour of six unique restaurants in Beemster on 11 November during the annual ‘Beemster Amusant’.

New Land

2 CLASS

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TAMING THE OCEAN

AYM 1TD ERDA

AMS REGION & EL TRAV T TICKE

Want to discover the Amsterdam area? Visit 9292.nl/en to plan your trip, and buy your Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – valid on all public transport in the region.

69

Water vs. Land Whether it’s swimming, fishing or admiring the boats, a day trip to this area of Holland is as much about enjoying the water as it is about paying homage to the Dutch ability to reclaim land.

Uitgast Festival

In collaboration with Het Flevolandschap (a play on words meaning the landscape of Flevoland), Uitgast Festival brings classical music, world music and jazz together on 1 and 2 September. The theme is ‘Grand, Green and Limitless’ and the festival will have an international flavour – musicians include the Delta Piano Trio from Switzerland and bass player James Oesi from South Africa. Uitgast is characterised by its relaxed atmosphere as well as emphasis on nature, helped not least by its special location in the green wonderland of the Natuurpark.

UITGAST.NL

HISWA in-water Boat Show

The HISWA in-water Boat Show, which takes place this year from 5–9 September in Bataviahaven (Batavia harbour) in Lelystad, is the most comprehensive show of its kind in Northern Europe. The Boat Show is a wonderful day out for anyone who enjoys the water and beautiful boats.

Visitors will be treated to the best of the best when it comes to Dutch and international yacht building. From small to large, series-built or custom, in aluminium, steel or GRP: the show offers an impressive overview of some 250 vessels, including dozens of (global) premieres.

HISWATEWATER.NL

Challenge Almere-Amsterdam The Dutch town of Urk is famous for its fishing, and on 23 and 24 November you’re invited to travel back in time 100 years to 1918 when the Zuiderzee (South Sea) Act was instated. At Urk in Wintersferen (which literally translates as Urk in a winter atmosphere), you’ll revisit a period of history in which fishermen ruled the waves and the island of Urk was reclaimed and connected to the mainland.

At the centre of Dutch triathlon is Challenge Almere- Amsterdam from 7–9 September: a unique event by international standards, which is a once-ina-lifetime experience for athletes, volunteers and supporters. Even if you’re not competing, there’s plenty to do and several places to watch, including: the Esplanade in Almere Stad (both big-screen action and runners coming through); Havenkom in Almere Haven (where you can enjoy a drink in a café while watching the cyclists); and Weerwater lake in Almere (where you can support the swimmers). Come cheer the athletes on as they swim, bike and run the race course!

URKINWINTERSFEREN.NL

CHALLENGE-ALMERE.COM

Urk in Wintersferen

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Castles & Gardens TRADITIONAL MEETS MODERN

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International Culture The area that stretches south down the River Amstel from the city isn’t only known for its historic fortresses and green gardens – it also plays host to a wealth of cultural and musical events.

Jazz in the Village

Calling all jazz fans! On 9 September in Oude Dorp, Amstelveen, the fifth annual edition of the Jazz in het Dorp (jazz in the village) festival takes place. This year offers a great line-up of local artists, established names and young upand-coming talent, playing a wide range of jazz styles. Entry is free, and drinks and snacks are available for purchase.

JAZZINHETDORP.NL

Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

International festivals

On 3 and 4 November, it’s International Weekend in Amstelveen – just a stone’s throw from Amsterdam. And it’s being celebrated in true international style with Diwali Festival on the Saturday and Japan Festival on the Sunday. Both events take place on the Stadsplein in Amstelveen and are free of charge. The Diwali Festival promises a colourful Indian party, which includes dance and musical performances, workshops, Indian cuisine, facepainting for the kids, a clothing and jewellery market, and a spectacular fireworks display to round off the day. At the Japan Festival, you can expect cultural performances, including Taiko drums; workshops on Japanese calligraphy, martial arts and origami; delicious traditional Japanese dishes; and much more.

DIWALIFESTIVAL.NL AND JAPANFESTIVAL.NL

Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot

Muiden is home to the grand Amsterdam Castle Muiderslot – built around 1285 – which looms over the mouth of the River Vecht. Take a tour through the impressive knight’s hall, towers, dungeon and armoury, or dress up like a real knight and try your hand at jousting. A fun family day out.

MUIDERSLOT.NL

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Beaches

Amsterdam’s beaches have a big surfing scene, with plenty of surf schools to hire all the necessary equipment. The season usually runs from April to October.

72 | LET’S GET SANDY

Beach Life West of Amsterdam, the seaside towns of Zandvoort aan Zee and IJmuiden are only a 30-minute journey away by train. And there’s still plenty to do in autumn…

Beach clubs

Until mid-October, all 35 beach clubs along Amsterdam’s beaches are open, and it’s business as usual. Pop in during a stroll along the beach for a drink, or choose from their expansive menus. From 1 November, many of the pavilions are closed, but there are still five pavilions in operation year-round.

Find out more about day trips to Amsterdam’s beaches on: iamsterdam.com/ daytrips

Dune deer

VVVZANDVOORT.NL/ZANDVOORT-GOES-WILD

S E R AV I L O A L A O T S I R C ©

Zandvoort goes wild in October! For the entire month, activities are organised to help you get to know the region’s wild side… Specifically? It’s mating season for the deer in the dunes (Waterleidingduinen) bordering Zandvoort: a unique spectacle in which the males of the species do battle with each other every October.

Quite the experience!

Sand Sculpture Festival

While the European Championship Sand Sculpture Festival 2018 took place back in July in Zandvoort aan Zee, the sculptures themselves won’t be broken down until November. Which means that during the autumn (or perhaps, if we’re lucky, the Indian summer) you can marvel at the seven huge sand statues in Zandvoort until 31 October. This year’s theme is Leonardo da Vinci, and the festival is free to attend. Sergio Ramirez from Spain is this year's winner with the sculpture above.

ZANDSCULPTURENROUTE.NL

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Flowers

Discover everything the Amsterdam area has to offer in our Virtual Reality corner in the I amsterdam Store at Central Station.

ADVERTORIAL

73

Virtual Blooms Did you miss the tulip season in spring or the rest of Holland’s blooming industry during the summer? Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered – virtually!

Drone’s eye view

Is it a bird? Is it a drone? If you’re looking for something more exhilarating, fly high up in the air over the wide and rugged beach of IJmuiden and enjoy the aerial view. You can almost feel the breeze in your face!

IAMSTERDAM.COM/VR

Virtual Amsterdam

Thanks to I amsterdam’s VR experience, you can now enjoy the flower fields all year long in virtual reality. And while taking a stroll through the fields in bloom may be illegal in real life, in VR you’re free to wander around as much as you like. Start your day trip with a sneak peek into what the area around Amsterdam has to offer from a unique vantage point, before hopping on the bus or train to discover the area for yourself.

The best part about VR? It never rains. Meaning you can take your pick of the area… Visit Haarlem, a beautiful town full of history, culture (including the fantastic Frans Hals Museum), arts and the best shopping in the country. Get a glimpse into the inside of a windmill, and learn about the famous Dutch cheesemakers. Explore the medieval castle at Muiderslot. Or learn more about the Dutch war against water.

IAMSTERDAM.COM/VR

IAMSTERDAM.COM/VR

Take a stroll

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Alkmaar

Find out more about day trips to Alkmaar on: visitalkmaar.com

74 | ADVERTORIAL

The History of Alkmaar in 12 Hours Why not combine your visit to Amsterdam with a day trip to the world famous cheese city Alkmaar, just 35 minutes by train? Visit the cheese market, climb the stairway to heaven in the Great Church, visit the Stedelijk Museum Alkmaar, or rent a boat in the historic centre.

Alkmaarse hofjes

Discover hidden alms houses (hofjes) in Alkmaar, such as Hofje Margaretha Splinter or Wildemanshofje. These alms houses were often established by wealthy citizens as sheltered accommodation for elderly women in need.

Enjoy the beautiful courtyard gardens surrounded by picturesque architecture where time has stood still.

Historic city centre

Deep in Old Holland, Alkmaar lies in an area of outstanding beauty. Nowhere else in the Netherlands will you find so many Dutch icons so close together.

765 years ago, Alkmaar was granted city status by Count Willem II of Holland, and Alkmaar flourished from then on. Many of the beautiful historic facades, canals and merchant houses you see in the city centre are monuments from a time when Alkmaar was a rich trading town. Don’t miss the 17th century Waaggebouw (1603), the City Hall (1520) and the Great Church (1518) with its famous organs – the Great Church is currently celebrating its 500th anniversary with events all year.

VISITALKMAAR.COM

Face to face with the Golden Age

The best painters in the 17th century came from Holland – illustrating the great wealth and growth of their age. The Golden Age of Alkmaar gallery offers a large collection of outstanding paintings by Caesar van Everdingen, Alkmaar’s greatest painter. Stedelijk Museum Alkmaar also obtained a number of long-term loans for the Golden Age gallery from the Rijksmuseum.

STEDELIJKMUSEUMALKMAAR.NL

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Want to find out everything about Alkmaar’s historic centre? Discover the best spots in Alkmaar during a walking tour, alone or with a guide. Ask at the Visitors’ Centre (VVV) for city walks.

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© EMIL DE JONG

VISITALKMAAR.COM

Stairway to heaven

This year the Great Church (Grote Kerk) is 500 years old. To celebrate, Alkmaar has created a stairway to heaven (Klim naar de Hemel) that leads you to stunning views from the church at a height of 40 metres. You can also enter the church through a window, where adorning the vaulted ceiling is the magnificent ‘The Last Judgement’ by renowned painter Jacob Cornelisz van Oostsanen. This breath-taking experience is on offer until 8 October.

© BOWIE VERSCHUUREN

KLIMNAARDEHEMEL.NL

From 29 September to 8 October, Alkmaar celebrates the Netherlands’ liberation from Spain in 1573. The Victory is a huge festival full of open-air theatre performances and much more.

Thousands of visitors from all over the world visit Alkmaar for its cheese market, which takes place every Friday from 10 am to 1 pm until 28 September on the Waagplein. Enjoy the spectacle of the sheer number of cheeses, the hustle and bustle, and the iconic cheese carriers – plus, don’t forget to visit the National Cheese Museum.

VICTORIEFEESTEN.NL

VISITALKMAAR.COM/CHEESE-MARKET

The Victory

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© CRIS TOAL A OLIVARES

Alkmaar’s famous cheese market

Beyond Amsterdam 76 | YOUR AUTUMN AGENDA FOR CULTURE

Further Afield With the opening of the cultural season in autumn, there’s plenty going on in the rest of the Netherlands too. All across the country, there are cultural events aplenty to keep you entertained. Here’s our pick of the highlights.

GLOW – Eindhoven

This November, for the 13th year running, Eindhoven will be transformed into one big open-air museum of light art, with projects by established and upcoming talented artists from home and abroad. GLOW Eindhoven  focuses on innovation and talent development. This year’s projects have been divided into four categories, and are connected by a free-of-charge pedestrian route that winds through the city. The theme for 2018 is ‘Shadows & Light’.

10-17 NOVEMBER, GLOWEINDHOVEN.NL

Dutch Design Week – Eindhoven

Design enthusiasts from all over the world make their way to Eindhoven  for the biggest design event in Northern Europe every October. For nine days, Dutch Design Week presents work and ideas dreamt up by 2,500 designers to more than 295,000 visitors from the Netherlands and abroad in 110 locations. Dutch Design Week organises and facilitates exhibitions, lectures, prize ceremonies, networking events, debates and festivities – all of which focus on the future. Although every imaginable discipline and aspect of design is showcased during the event, the emphasis is on experimentation, innovation and crossover. Come and be amazed, surprised and inspired.

20–28 OCTOBER, DDW.NL

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Into the Woods – Amersfoort

The clue’s in the title: this electronic music festival takes place inside a secluded forest near the city of Amersfoort , over two days in mid-September.

This year’s line-up covers a wide range of genres across six stages, and includes Joy Orbison, DJ Tennis and Or:la, as well as many other big names from the international EDM scene. Into the Woods has a surreal, mystical atmosphere, which allows festival goers to release their inhibitions and enjoy the music. Camping is available onsite.

Crossing Border – The Hague

This international literature and music festival in The Hague  includes a unique combination of spoken word, music, special film screenings and visual arts. As one of the foremost international, interdisciplinary literature and music festivals in Europe, past performers have included Fay Weldon, Salman Rushdie, Rufus Wainwright and Jamie Lidell.

29 OCTOBER–4 NOVEMBER, CROSSINGBORDER.NL

14–15 SEPTEMBER, INTOTHEWOODSFESTIVAL.NL

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denhaag.com/en/princes-day

Welcome to Royal The Hague Prinsjesdag has become much more than a procession with King Willem-Alexander and Queen Máxima in the Glass Coach, the King's Speech in the Knights' Hall and the balcony scene at Noordeinde Palace.

All manner of extra activities are organised in the run up to this festive occasion, from a hat show known as 'PrinsjesHatwalk' to the spectacular beach rehearsal of the Cavalry Escort of Honour on the beach.

There is no charge for watching the Glass Coach proceed along its route, but the best views are from one of the grandstands along the Lange Voorhout. You can book tickets and arrangements at the Tourist Information Centre in The Hague.

For more information check denhaag.com/en/princes-day.

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Need to Know

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I amsterdam Visitor Centres are your one-stop shop for everything you need to know about the city.

Last-Minute Ticket Shop

Make the most of discounted theatre tickets on the day of a performance. The pick of the day can be a choice of theatre, ballet, opera, concerts or international comedy. Check the Last-Minute Ticket Shop after 10 am, and buy tickets at lastminuteticketshop.nl.

I AMSTERDAM STORE With a hand-picked selection of quality products from iconic Amsterdam brands, as well as daily tips and advice on the best events and must-see attractions in the city, the I amsterdam Store at Central Station is your key to unlocking the very best that Amsterdam has to offer.

Open: Mon-Wed 8 am-7pm; Thu-Sat 8 am-8 pm; Sun 9 am-6 pm Iamsterdam.com/en/i-amsterdam-store

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRES For information and to book excursions, visit one of the I amsterdam Visitor Centres in Amsterdam: iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE STATIONSPLEIN Opposite the main entrance of Central Station.

Open daily, check opening times on iamsterdam.com/visitorcentres

Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket

Discover Amsterdam and the surrounding area with the Amsterdam & Region Travel Ticket – a special public transport card valid on trains, metros, trams and buses operated by NS, GVB, Connexxion and EBS. The Amsterdam & Regional Travel Ticket is available for one, two or three calendar days, and is valid on any of the routes listed in the public transport guide to the Amsterdam region. Tickets can be purchased at the I amsterdam Visitor Centres and I amsterdam Store, as well as ticket counters of the participating public transport companies.

CLASS 2

I AMSTERDAM VISITOR CENTRE SCHIPHOL AIRPORT Arrivals 2 at Schiphol Plaza.

Open daily 7 am-10 pm

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2018 til 31-12with Valid un required and out Check in ier on every trip each carr

Y A D 1 AM D R E T S M

A

N & REGIO L TRAVE TICKET

USEFUL AMSTERDAM BLOGS Amsterdam is chock-full of bloggers, many of whom write in English. Here is just a small selection of some of the blogs we follow (plus our own!): I AMSTERDAM: blog.iamsterdam.com A sideways look at life in the city for visitors and locals.

Road Closures for Sports Events Autumn is the season for sports in Amsterdam. And whenever there’s a big race on, some of the city’s roads are closed. Be sure to check before you travel!

AMSTERDAM CITY SWIM On 9 September, the seventh annual city swim takes place in Amsterdam. Over 2,000 participants take to the canals to swim 2 km to raise money for ALS. We’re not sure about road closures, but there’ll certainly be canal closures!

9 SEPTEMBER, AMSTERDAMCITYSWIM.NL

DAM TOT DAMLOOP On the weekend of 22 and 23 September, runners set off from Amsterdam Central

under the IJ Tunnel to Amsterdam Noord and through to Zaandam. The course is around 16 km long, and the roads en route are closed not just for the runners taking part, but also for the supporters to enjoy the event.

STUFF DUTCH PEOPLE LIKE: stuffdutchpeoplelike.com A study of all things Orange.

AMSTERDAM FOODIE: amsterdamfoodie.nl Restaurant reviews, culinary guides and foodie travels.

22-23 SEPTEMBER, DAMLOOP.NL

AMSTERDAM MARATHON On 21 October, the 43rd edition of the TCS Amsterdam Marathon takes place.

There are five events scheduled: the TCS Marathon, the Mizuno Half Marathon, the TCS 8 K run, the Kids Run and the Mini Marathon. Roads are planned to be closed along all routes.

AWESOME AMSTERDAM: awesomeamsterdam.com Personal tips and info on events, dining and culture.

SPOTTED BY LOCALS: spottedbylocals.com/amsterdam Online city guide and app

21 OCTOBER, TCSAMSTERDAMMARATHON.NL

Getting Around

Amsterdam is well equipped with a public transport network of trams, buses and the metro, operated by GVB (gvb.nl). Public transport tickets – known as OV cards – are obligatory on all forms of public transport. You can buy a card for one or more days from ticket offices at the main stations; single one-hour tickets are for sale on trams and buses. To plan your journeys once in Amsterdam, visit 9292.nl/en for up-to-the-minute information on all public transport routes in the city and beyond. Google Maps is also generally fairly reliable. Alternatively, hire a bike from one of the many bicycle rental stores throughout the city, and pedal like a local!

In Case of Emergency

If you are a victim of crime, report it to the police (politie. nl). In emergency situations or to report a crime in progress, call 112. For non-emergency situations requiring police assistance or to make an appointment to report a crime in person, call 0900-8844 (if using a mobile phone

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with an international SIM card, dial +31 343 578 844). For medical emergencies, including telephone consultations and consultations on location, contact the hotel reception or call the tourist doctor on +31 (0)20 427 5011 (expatmc. net).

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On the Way Out

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‘Go to Club Escape. It’s the best club in Amsterdam.’

Lars Stanley Hughes (32), sex instructor from Wales ‘I love getting coffee at the Conservatorium Hotel. It’s cosy and homely so you can sit there quietly, and it’s close to all the museums.’

John de Jong (65), Professor of Language Testing from the Netherlands

‘Walk around the canals – they are so beautiful. We find it very interesting that the whole city was built on water; there is nothing similar in Russia.’

Katy Buzueva (28) and Victoria Vasilenko (26), bank employees from Russia

‘Madame Tussauds was a real treat, but we especially enjoyed the many narguilé cafés. Lost in Amsterdam, a smoke-friendly place in the centre, has hookahs: a little taste of home for us.’

Zeynep Deniz (19), Emine Alptekin (21) and Ozlem Simsek (23), students from Turkey

‘The best thing about Amsterdam is the beer, of course! So many different types, there’s one for every taste. We recommend going to one of the local breweries, such as Bierfabriek or Troost.’

Maurizio Burgazzi, Luca Marmora and Mirko Panteghini, from Italy

editor-in-chief Bart van Oosterhout art director & basic design Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken, bureau-studio designer Martijn Blokland deputy editor and proofreader Vicky Hampton contributors Karin Engelbrecht, Marie-Charlotte Pezé, Christiaan de Wit, Vicky Hampton, EdenFrost (Tamar Bosschaart, David Wills, Rhys Elliott, Megan Waters, Alison McGarry, Alex Hibbert and Sarah Zaretti), SaltyStock (Barbara van den Berg, Gemma Pauwels) advertising partner@iamsterdam.com or 020-7026180 subscriptions magazine@iamsterdam.com didn't receive your copy? klantenservice@aboland.nl publisher amsterdam marketing print Corelio Printing ISSN 2589-6717

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Start watching them grow Start Something Priceless Discover Holland with your Mastercard. It’s cheaper than exchanging or withdrawing cash.

Buy at iamsterdam.com/citycard

Eat & shop Coffee & cake Best beer bars Chic shopping

What’s on

Unseen Photo Fair Amsterdam Dance Event Fashion Week

Around town West is best Haarlem, city of culture VR experience

Magazine | The Autumn Issue 2018

It’s not just our World Business Class seats that set us apart

Let’s Dance

It’s our caring crew She is just admiring Mr Johnson’s new grandson after serving him a night snack.

Although Mr Johnson is enjoying the comfort of his full-flat seat, tonight the joy of a newborn keeps him awake. We guess nothing will make Mr Johnson happier. But if there’s anything we can do for him, we are more than happy to - klm.com

Made by Amsterdam Marketing

This autumn, join the world’s biggest dance event

Have a nice stay

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