I amsterdam Magazine Winter 2025

What’s on

Art, music and festivals

Ice-skating

Winter markets

Around town

Westergas cultural district

Go-to shops

Explore the city & beyond

Eat & drink

Hot drinks by cosy fires

A (vegan) pastry boom

The best noodles

Tattoo King

Henk Schiffmacher: ‘People want a piece of the city on their bodies’

HIDDEN GEM IN CITY CENTRE

Discover the Kalverpassage #Fashion #Food #Drinks #View #Art #Parking #Toilets #Open7days

L06 International City

WELCOME

From theatre and art to unique products and ideas: the things that people who weren’t born in Amsterdam bring to their new home.

13 Eat & Drink

WHERE TO INDULGE IN AMSTERDAM

Where to eat the best noodles, enjoy hot beverages or relax by a cosy fire. Plus: essential patisseries.

27 What’s On

WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO

Everything you need to add to your diary for this winter, from art exhibitions and concerts to festivals and shows.

49 City Guide

EXPLORE AMSTERDAM’S NEIGHBOURHOODS

For more information about Amsterdam, visit our website: iamsterdam.com

There's something new to discover around every corner. Find out all about the Westergas district, the best shops and the new cafés in town.

63 Day Trips

DISCOVER THE AMSTERDAM AREA

Explore beyond the city borders of Amsterdam and find unique villages, breathtaking nature and the Netherlands in Winter Wonderland-vibe.

81 On the Way Out

MY AMSTERDAM & COLOPHON

An artist’s view on Amsterdam, plus the people behind this magazine sharing their personal favourites with you.

ike most large western cities, Amsterdam is a city of immigrants. Starting with German workers and craftsmen from the 13th century onwards, different waves of immigrants have settled here. What makes Amsterdam unique is that in the 16th and 17th centuries, religious and political refugees found a tolerant home here. Some of the best known Amsterdammers were refugees. The famous philosopher Spinoza (his statue can be seen next to the Stopera, which is home to Amsterdam’s City Hall and the Dutch National Opera and Ballet) was from a Jewish family who fled Portugal, and Descartes, who wrote his famous ‘I think, therefore I am’ in Amsterdam, fled France for its intolerant political climate. Without immigrants, Amsterdam would not be the city that it is now. Today, almost 60% of Amsterdammers are first- or second-generation migrants. Most come from western countries – the UK, Italy, Germany, France, the US and Spain – as students or knowledge workers. And their contribution to the city is unmistakable on every level. Of course, some Amsterdammers complain: ‘they’ don’t even understand Dutch (true), they drive up house prices (true for some, as for the Dutch), they colonise our culture (apart from introducing Halloween, it’s not that bad). In this issue, we celebrate what immigrants contribute to Amsterdam. From British bookshops, Irish pubs, Polish sklepy and French schools, to Lebanese or Ethiopian restaurants. In fact, half of the city would stop if international workers, waiters, artists and students would decide to go to back to their country of origin. So enjoy your stay and remember, I amsterdam means: this city is yours as much as it is ours. AN INTERNATIONAL VILLAGE

Bart van Oosterhout Editor-in-Chief, I amsterdam Magazine

| BY: SENAY BOZTAS

One plus one is three

Sure, people from Amsterdam love to complain about all the tourists in their city (and maybe rightly so). But the expats that actually live here can have a positive impact that you don’t often hear about.

What do you get when you tell an American comic who wants to start a Dutch comedy club that he should think twice about his plans? You get Boom Chicago, the improv comedy institution that has nurtured international talent, from Seth Meyers and Jordan Peele to award-winning Dutch-Surinamese theatre maker Daniël Kolf. ‘Americans are not hesitant about the future,’ says cofounder and 57-year-old comedian Andrew Moskos, pointing out a framed letter from Amsterdam municipality in 1993 telling him his plans wouldn’t work, but that didn’t stop him from going ahead with them anyway. ‘I think it’s inspiring to have new ideas come in. And we did change the landscape of

the cultural scene by bringing in new ideas.’

They were first to serve drinks alongside their Chicago-style improvised comedy theatre show, says co-owner Saskia Maas, as well as opening throughout the summer instead of taking the normal six-week holiday. Three decades after he had a pipe dream of a comedy club, in English, for all kinds of talents, Moskos believes Amsterdam’s internationalism has brought a wealth of good things to the city. Sitting in the maze-like backstage of the comedy club – you ring one doorbell and another door opens – he believes that, while not everybody is happy that so many people are speaking English in this Dutch city, every-

Amsterdam’s internationalism has brought a wealth of good things to the city

Andrew Moskos

Saskia Maas

Internationals

8 | COVER FEATURE

one benefits from the culture, restaurants, talent and can-do spirit of a large group of immigrants. ‘Is there a housing shortage? Yes. Are things getting expensive? Yes. And are rich people – Dutch first and expats second – buying houses and giving them to their kids so that teachers can’t live in the city? Yes. But the reason that the shopping, restaurants and cafés are so good is because of the foreign influences!’ Maas, who knows Moskos through her own travels abroad, points out that the Dutch built their wealth and global influence by daring to travel, so internationalism is in their blood – and it is strange to view expats in their own country as ‘takers’, especially when many foreign workers leave before reaching pension age. ‘Part of the budget that the tourist tax brings in also goes to schools, so tourists pay for our education,’ she says. ‘How is that ever bad?’

The art of immigrants

In Amsterdam in Motion –a multimedia experience and exhibition on the history of

the Dutch capital – it is clear how international and immigrant populations built it up from a tiny hamlet in 1275 to today’s metropolis of 930,000 people from almost 180 nations. The Netherlands’ history as a colonial and slave-trading nation brought immigration; a large Jewish population fled here from persecution elsewhere in Europe; and the 20th-century capital of sexual freedoms and soft drug tolerance continued to attract foreigners.

Within two generations, people feel integrated

‘Throughout its whole history, Amsterdam has been a city for people from around the world,’ says Judikje Kiers, managing director of the Amsterdam Museum. ‘From the 16th and 17th centuries, it was a city with a freedom of religion and of thought, and even today, people come here from all around the globe and keep this culture alive. Amsterdam has been built with peo-

Explore International Heritage

©

FREE SPIRITS:

Visit Our Lord in the Attic Museum (Oudezijds Voorburgwal 38-40), a functioning Catholic secret church hidden in the attic of a canal house. It was founded by German migrant Jan Hartman, a successful merchant who took advantage of the relative tolerance of the Dutch capital to practise his faith in secret.

INTERNATIONAL LUXURY: Stay at the Anantara Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky, founded in the 19th century by Polish tailor and immigrant Adolf Wilhelm

Krasnapolsky, who created a successful coffee house chain that got one of the first dance licenses in the 1920s.

MIND AND MATTER: Visit the Embassy of the Free Mind (Keizersgracht 123) or the University of Amsterdam’s Allard Pierson Museum (Oude Turfmarkt 127) to find out more about the history of thought, take in a lunchtime concert or discover the city’s historic collections.

ARE YOU HAVIN’ A LAUGH? Encounter live improvised theatre and comedy in English, classes and business events – as well as a great bar – at Boom Chicago (Rozengracht 117). You might even catch a funny moment with cofounder Andrew Moskos.

ple from elsewhere, bringing their own cultures with them… and that is what makes it so attractive for everyone.’

Leo Lucassen, professor of global labour and migration history at Leiden University and director of the International Institute of Social History in Amsterdam, has coauthored a book about how migration is part of the capital’s ‘DNA’. ‘Amsterdam can only be understood as a city from a perspective of migration,’ he says. ‘It has always been an immigrant city, dependent demographically but also economically and culturally on a diverse influx of people. It’s the quintessential migrant city, although the inhabitants often forget that most of its inhabitants have migration roots.’

Within two generations, he says, people feel fully integrated as ‘Amsterdammers’, sometimes with the same sense of distance towards the newest outsiders that their grandparents were – rather like the sociological process in a city such as New York. It was really a process of luck and loca-

Embassy of the Free Mind

Judikje Kiers

Dine with the Internationals

COFFEE: Lot61 (various locations). Paul Moets was born in Sydney, raised in Brooklyn and then founded Lot61 in Amsterdam, introducing locally-roasted coffee beans from the ‘nosegrind’ to the drip bag Bombora.

TEA: Join the queue for high-quality matcha and milk tea and various toasts at Chun Café (Berenstraat 8 or Spuistraat 122). They also sell ceremonial-grade and premiumgrade tea and everything you need to make it.

PIJP DREAMS: If you eat in De Pijp, you will find top-quality food from all over the world. UK-born chef Graham Mee offers modern cuisine at Graham’s Kitchen (Hemonystraat 38), the falafel and Belgian chips of Indian chef Sonny (Eerste van der Helststraat 43) are legendary, and Yuan’s Hot Pot –‘pioneer of skewer hotpot culture’ from southwest China – offers a fun night out and amazing mushrooms at various locations. Meanwhile there’s Indonesian food (such as a rijsttafel spread of dishes with rice) galore, including the one by Le Cordon Bleu-trained Swedish chef Ellinor Strinnholm at Kafé Kontrast (Ceintuurbaan 71).

tion, says Lucassen. The city started growing at the end of the 16th century when the gravitational point of the global economy – which went via water – shifted from the Mediterranean Sea to the Atlantic Ocean. This Dutch city was in precisely the right place for a global role in the era of colonialism, becoming ‘a clearing house for people and products and ideas’. Crucial to this was the freedom the city enjoyed because there were no nation states at the time: the city aldermen could decide who to admit, the rights they had and how to build their economy.

‘And the Amsterdam policy in the ‘golden age’ and also thereafter has been to be very practical and tolerant,’ Lucassen says. ‘That’s not to say that they liked everyone or every idea, but they understood people would have to get along with each other and that that would be good for the financial position of the city.’ Not everyone had the same rights, though:

Chun Café

Boom Chicago

Internationals

while Jewish immigrants were welcome at a time when they were fleeing pogroms, they did not have full citizenship or access to employment. Free thinkers such as Portuguese-Jewish Baruch Spinoza, Frenchman René Descartes and Englishman Thomas Hobbes had books published in Amsterdam that were unthinkable elsewhere in Europe – making publishers money while also spinning the city’s liberal, global image.

Like other parts of the Netherlands, Amsterdam welcomed ‘guest workers’ from Turkey and Morocco after the Second World War, migrants from former colonies and, as the UK left the EU, there was a push to attract businesses such as the European Medicines Agency from London. And despite some local resentment of the increasing numbers of English-speakers, and populist politicians who blame migration for issues such as high housing prices,

internationalisation still has huge positive effects. ‘The dynamic, economic sector of Amsterdam could not be sustained without a constant influx of people from outside with new ideas – and it includes foreign students, who also have a very positive effect economically,’ Lucassen says. ‘If an indigenous inhabitant of Amsterdam would say, ‘Keep the foreigners out, or at least most of them’, the city would die economically, it would die demographically and it would die culturally.”

Food from all over the world

Immigrants don’t just bring with them economic talents and ideas, they also bring culinary skills to expand the city’s restaurant offerings – from top Ethiopian cuisine at Semai, and matcha tea at Chun Café or Moychay to Restaurant Vermeer, which received Michelin stars under the leadership of British chef Christopher Naylor. Dutch people who have a lot to do with internationals – such as author, food writer

and teacher Marjan Ippel – gain a lot from an outsider perspective on their own society as well as enjoying the food culture they support. ‘If you look at Amsterdam 20 years ago, food-wise the difference is huge,’ she says. ‘I’m so grateful for the coffee culture that was brought to Amsterdam

The economy could not be sustained without people from outside

when Lot61 arrived, the lunch culture and the breakfast culture. Really good Dutch chefs can only do what they do now due to an international audience that is also willing to pay.’

They also play a strong role in volunteering to clean up the parks, combat loneliness in older people and help out the needy. Founder and director at Serve the City Amsterdam Brigitte Vonck-Makkinje could not run drop-in charitable work

International Influencers

ANDREW MOSKOS comedian, writer, performer, trainer ‘and pinball nerd’ started Boom Chicago with Saskia Maas and Pep Rosenfeld as their ‘best stoner idea ever’. He’s a fierce defender of the cleaner, better modern city – with internationals who are prepared to work all hours to offer services and staff the bars. ‘The city is just kind of quietly better – all of these street redesigns, these sidewalks we’ve added, are so much more important than the number of tourists,’ he says. ‘If you want to raise your living standards, improve your English, wherever you are. It’s not that it’s pushing Dutch out – it’s just we’re lucky that we’re so English-literate here. That makes us rich. That makes us happy. The people complaining about expats sometimes are not even experiencing Amsterdam enough themselves!’ of your living about expats sometimes are

Leo Lucassen

Ethiopian cuisine at Semai in Amsterdam Noord PAPAVERHOEK 35,

throughout the city without them. ‘Seventy percent of our volunteers are internationals,’ she says. ‘The Netherlands is a country of volunteers, which is something to do with our Christian background and how we look at society. And I see that expats and internationals think it’s very important to give something back too. Many of them make friends doing volunteer work, because it’s something that is very positive and often with similar-minded people.’

In short, many believe, Amsterdam would not be Amsterdam without the flavours, efforts and languages of all those people who have ended up living here and playing their part in its economy, cultural scene and neighbourhood life. ‘Taking the migrants out of Amsterdam, our economy would plunge, our democracy would plunge,’ says Lucassen. ‘We have had such a gloomy way of thinking about it recently that we forget about the very positive aspects and crucial place of migration in Dutch society. And it has been that way for centuries.’

International Influencers

MARJAN IPPEL of Talkin’ Lingo, and author of Dutch is Sooo Easy, posts on Instagram, Substack and LinkedIn about her funny experiences with foreigners and food.

International Influencers

‘What internationals find really weird is that when the Dutch have a birthday party, everybody is congratulating everybody else on the one person who is celebrating his or her birthday!’ she says. ‘People find that very funny but I really love this tradition because it shows that everybody who is there is connected through this one person.’

‘What person is connected

DEREK SCOTT MITCHELL posts hilarious comedy skits about Dutch life and Dutch, British, French and American foibles and fables on his ‘Double Dutch’ accounts. ‘I truly believe that most of the positive things in Amsterdam come from immigrants: the city’s history is so deeply intertwined with migration and multiculturalism,’ he says. ‘It’s part of what gives Amsterdam its energy, openness and creativity. And honestly, even friet wasn’t originally Dutch. It came from Belgium!’

SEMAI.NL

Where to indulge in Amsterdam Eat & Drink

BY: KARIN ENGELBRECHT

Find out more about food and drink in Amsterdam at iamsterdam.com/ restaurants

Dining Out

Croissants & Co.

Bistro Féline

This recently opened bistro blends Parisian polish with local charm. Set in a former corner café in the Jordaan, it’s stylish without strain, relaxed without missing a beat and just the right spot for a cocktail, a glass of fine wine or a last-minute meal (walk-ins welcome). Expect seasonal classics with a contemporary twist that balance refinement and comfort in every bite, such as Kaffir-lime infused bisque or Reblochon gnocchi. Fresh, familiar and quietly confident, Féline may be new but somehow feels like it’s always been here.

LINDENGRACHT 90, BISTROFELINE.NL

Noodle Scene

At lunchtime, crowds line up at Switie Poort in Zuidoost for Javanese staples such as bami rames. BIJLMERPLEIN 83, AMSTERDAMSEPOORT.NL/SWITIE-POORT

Leave it to the Dutch candy brand Look-o-Look to create an Asian snack box (€2.49) featuring faux noodles, shrimp, vegetables and boiled eggs made from fruit gum, sugar and marshmallows.

AVAILABLE AT MAJOR SUPERMARKETS, LOOKOLOOK.COM

From

Asian Delight

steamy broths to chilled salad bowls, Amsterdam’s obsession with ribbony carbs crosses continents and cultures, one comforting noodle bowl at a time.

While a tangle of Lanzhou-style noodle spots and specialist ramen bars seems to have opened across Amsterdam lately, the city’s ever-expanding noodle scene is becoming a slurp-happy atlas of flavours. Noodles, after all, make a warm and welcome antidote to the damp chill of the donkere dagen (the so-called ‘dark days’ of Dutch winter). On the edge of the Red Light District, Nyonya ladles out generous bowls of Malaysian laksa kari bami: a rich red curry broth thick with prawns, tofu, tender fish strips, bean sprouts and silky egg noodles. Authentic Korean japchae (glass noodle stir-fry) awaits at The Bab in Oud West, Oost or De Pijp. For Vietnamese specialities such as chicken pho (chicken noodle broth), bún bò (spicy beef noodles) and bún cà ri gà (curry noodles), head to Bonjour Càphê in the Westelijke Havens. NieuwWest locals know Aries Noodles for its 14 varieties of bakmi (Indonesian noodles). Looking for something more obscure? Try the hand-pulled beef noodles at My_Etles Uyghur Restaurant in Zeeburg. Those seeking something lighter can find plant-powered comfort at Veganees in Oost, where rice-, glass- and udon noodles meet bok choy, kimchi and crunch. And if your idea of noodles runs Italian, Toscanini on Lindengracht has been serving pasta crowd-pleasers since the ’90s. Wherever you wander, bliss in Amsterdam increasingly comes in slivers and strands.

Noodle Scene

Sichuan Territory

This outpost of Sichuan Amsterdam’s fiery empire in Garage Noord’s greenhouse delivers bold, buzzing Sichuan flavours and vibrant vibes. The tofu skin salad is a must-try: thin bean curd sheets sliced into strips and topped with a spicy chilli sauce.

GEDEMPT HAMERKANAAL 40

SICHUAN.AMSTERDAM

China Supreme

Chef-owner Mike Ng serves freshly made noodles inspired by regions across China at his eateries in Buitenveldert and Zuidas. Don’t miss the wide, hand-pulled biangbiang with braised pork and bok choy, or the spicy dan dan with minced pork and Sichuan pepper.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS

INSTAGRAM: CHINA.SUPREME

Gifu Ramen Bar

Head to this buzzy new food bar by the folks behind TikTok-hit Chun Café for some of the city’s best ramen. The tonkotsu, with its deeply layered, almost creamy pork and chicken broth, pork chashu, spinach, egg, nori and aged shoyu tare, is chef’s kiss.

ELANDSGRACHT 14

GIFURAMENBAR.COM

Find out more about food and drink in Amsterdam at iamsterdam.com/ restaurants

Yangon Delight

Burmese restaurants remain rare in Europe, reflecting Myanmar’s political isolation, a smaller diaspora and limited global awareness of it cuisine. That makes this place, tucked away in an eastside basement, all the more notable as the Netherlands’ first. Here, Burmese transplant Thandar Soe aims to ‘share the delicious secrets of Burmese cuisine with the world’, with its complex, layered flavours, often built around ingredients such as fermented tea leaves, shrimp paste, rice and tamarind. Myanmar’s national dish, moh hin gar, a fragrant freshwater fish chowder with rice noodles, lemongrass and ginger, is a highlight. Other noodle dishes include oh-no khout swe, a coconut-milk chicken broth with egg noodles; htamin latt thoke, a vegan rainbow salad with two types of tofu and three varieties of noodles; and nan gyi thoke, a royal chicken curry noodle salad with a recipe ‘straight from the Mandalay Palace’ LINNAEUSSTRAAT 83, YANGONDELIGHT.NL

New Draver is Oost’s unofficial Surinamese clubhouse. The roast chicken bami is the move: juicy, well-seasoned meat over springy, non-greasy noodles.

TWEEDE OOSTERPARKSTRAAT 2-4, NEWDRAVER.NL

Jinweide Beef Noodles

This popular Chinese chain brought its famed noodles to Amsterdam Zuid in December 2024, marking its first location in the Netherlands. Rooted in the Hui Muslim community of Lanzhou in China’s northwestern Gansu province, these handpulled wheat noodles have been perfected there for more than a century. True to tradition, the halal noodles feature the ‘five essential elements’: a clear, rich beef broth; white radish; green coriander and garlic shoots; vibrant red chilli oil; and goldenyellow noodles. Diners can customise their bowls by selecting a stock, noodle style and protein, with the option to add a tea egg. Generously portioned bowls include a complimentary side salad, featuring shredded potatoes, cabbage, wood ear and carrots. The beef mince noodles with sweet bean sauce, soybean paste, shredded carrots, cucumber, greens, mushrooms, spring onions and thin, round noodles have a hearty flavour and bounce in every bite.

HOBBEMAKADE 63, INSTAGRAM: JINWEIDE.NL

Thai Thai Poppetje

With its laid-back vibe and colourful decor, this Thai spot brings a slice of Bangkok’s street-food spirit to De Baarsjes. It’s the kind of place made for sharing; families, friends and big groups all squeeze in happily, with a games corner adding to the buzz. The recipes come from Bo Bertels, the Thai-born mother of co-founder Kora Bertels, whose four decades in the kitchen shine through in every dish. The star of the show is the khao soi: a golden curry and coconut noodle soup with punchy pickled mustard greens and veggies, many of which are grown in the kitchen garden out back. It’s topped with crisp, fried chicken and crunchy noodles. There’s also a comforting udon version for those who like a thicker noodle. Warm, fun and full of flavour, Thai Thai Poppetje feels like a neighbourhood secret that everyone’s in on.

VAN SPEIJKSTRAAT 157, THAITHAIPOPPETJE.NL

Top Tips

With its old-fashioned open hearth, Café de Wetering is the perfect place to drink in that convivial neighbourhood café atmosphere that’s always described as gezellig

WETERINGSTRAAT 37

Fireside Hangouts

Mont Blanc

Every detail counts in this Alpine-inspired De Pijp charmer, from the roaring fire and mountain-relief plates to tinkling cowbells in the loo. Expect culinary precision, regional wines and cheese, and the kind of warm French-inflected service that melts hearts, not snow.

GOVERT FLINCKSTRAAT 308, RESTAURANTMONTBLANC.NL

Het Stadspaleis

‘We want to keep it affordable for everyone,’ says Taj Kroon, co-owner at this family-run 19th-century former police post with its cosy fireplace and €1 Rovers Coffee espressos. There are also (veggie) burgers, toasties and sweets. ‘And the conversation’s free.’ NIEUWEZIJDSVOORBURGWAL 277 STADSPALEIS.COM

De Vergulden Eenhoorn

This handsomely renovated restaurant with locavore leanings is housed in a monumental 1700s farmstead in Oost, where dairy cows once found refuge. A cosy corner with leather couches and a copper fireplace is ideal for chewing the cud on chilly afternoons.

RINGDIJK 58 VERGULDENEENHOORN.NL

Vessel

Situated in the Western Docklands, this bar-brasserie scores serious style points with its plush pink velvet sofas and copper hearth. The all-day menu offers cross-continental flame-kissed comfort food, from miso-braised celeriac to chipotle BBQ chicken thighs. There’s live jazz on Saturdays from 7pm.

REVAEILAND 500 VESSELAMSTERDAM.NL

Chef-owner Orlando David brings 21 years of experience at renowned restaurants such as Oud Sluis*** and The Jane** to the table.

Fine Dining

Open passport

Quiet confidence meets global inspiration at R21 in a stylish canal-side setting just minutes from Amsterdam Central Station.

R21 occupies a monumental 19th-century building with multiple rooms across various levels. The mood is carefully pitched: from the chandelier-lit bar to the quieter back rooms overlooking the Montelbaanstoren and Rapenburgwal canal. It’s elegant yet unforced, with a warm ambience and crisp white tablecloths. Chilean-Colombian chef Orlando David runs the kitchen with an international outlook and a confident grasp of flavour. His four-course tasting menu

(€60) favours simplicity over spectacle and changes with the seasons. A few local notes, such as a take on herring with potato salad, Granny Smith apples and Amsterdamse uitjes (pickled pearl onions), appear without fuss. The service is friendly, the playlist stays in its lane and the downstairs wine cellar is worth exploring. It all adds up to a dining experience that’s measured, modern and refreshingly low on ego.

PEPERSTRAAT 23, R21.AMSTERDAM

Lauren Comiteau is a journalist and writer who has covered the Netherlands for TIME Magazine, CBS Radio and others since 1996. She lives in Amsterdam with her two daughters and Jack Russell.

Dam Life

COLUMN | 21

Extra belegen.

My extra belegen life

Our columnist Lauren Comiteau on why she doesn’t mind

being compared to a hunk of Dutch cheese.

I’ve recently entered my 60s and have been taking an informal poll among my similarly aging mates to see if we’re still middle-aged or just plain old. It seems ridiculous to call yourself middle-aged at 60. But trust me, after spending huge swaths of my recent holiday with (albeit fabulous) 80-plussers, us Gen Xers are definitely not old, either. I just can’t find a phrase for us betwixt and betweeners in English. But I can in Dutch.

To find it, I had to move out of the traditional Dutch descriptions of life phases and turn instead to one of their most iconic products: cheese. Not to sound too cheesy, but if the clog fits, why not wear it?

The generational life of cheese goes like this: first comes the mildest, jong – or young – cheese, which ripens into the medium-aged belegen (mature) before aging into the sharpest and most geri-

atric cheeses of all: oud (old) and overjarige (loosely translated as ‘ancient’). But there are some middle grounds, such as jong belegen (young mature). Or, in my case, extra belegen –extra mature. Or: extra middle-aged. Most of my queried friends approved of the extra belegen moniker, although one pointed out that it depends on how long you plan on living. But maybe, it’s not how long you live, but how you live.

To that end, here are some of my favourite extra belegen activities in Amsterdam this season: Head to Bar Bukowski in Amsterdam Oost for their Funky Friday throwback nights hosted by Disco Saves the Day. While the crowd can skew young, it’s our music. Go claim it!

There are several rental options for the mandatory boat cruise through the city’s UNESCO World Heritage Canal Belt, ranging from the traditional to those where you can smoke cannabis or

admire the Amsterdam Light Festival at night. But while our legs are still working, why not rent a pedal boat, or waterfiets, and ‘cycle’ through the canals, getting your 10,000 steps in during the process?

While films are one for the ages (all of them), there’s nothing more old-school than a meet-up at the Tuschinski Theatre, an Art Deco monument where you can book retro love seats for two, snacks and drinks included. I actually love old cheese best (which bodes well for my future), but for now, I’m savouring my extra belegen slice of life. It’s a lot more flavourful than young cheese, and there’s still plenty of zing. To revel in the real deal, I head to the Kaasbar (‘cheese bar’) in De Pijp, where you can feast on a fabulous fondue or sit at its ‘Cheese Train’, choosing from some 30 local Dutch cheeses passing you by on a conveyor belt. Just don’t forget your glasses.

Top Tips

Pick up a Hotchocspoon (from €4.35) in one of 60 flavours at CHCO Café to make real-deal Dutch hot chocolate at home.

STATIONSPLEIN 17B CHOCOLATECOMPANY.NL

Winter warmers

From craft coffee and spiked toddies to the buzziest hot chocolate, these Amsterdam spots prove that the best way to fight the chill is from the inside out.

Daily Dates

Date fruit holds deep cultural significance for the Dutch-Moroccan founder of this Zuidoost café, which specialises in all things date-related, from smoothies and energy bites to a gloriously sticky date cake. It’s just as well, then, that their signature chai, crafted with a fragrant house blend of spices, is best enjoyed with something sweet on the side.

BIJLMERPLEIN 89B

INSTAGRAM: DAILYDATES.AMSTERDAM

Dak Coffee Roasters

The Oud-West showroom of this leading specialty coffee roaster pairs cutting-edge machinery with rare small-lot coffees and experimental co-ferments, attracting enthusiasts fascinated by the craft and science behind every cup.

‘We aim to be one of a few roasters in the world to roast a particular type of coffee,’ says co-owner Louis Boucher.

BELLAMYPLEIN 16 DAKCOFFEEROASTERS.COM

MOCA

At the self-proclaimed ‘first hot chocolate bar in the Netherlands’, 65% Dutch bean-tobar chocolate gets the main-character treatment. Choose from cocoa with a toasted marshmallow rim or a coconut-white-chocolate matcha that’s pure 2025 energy, and more. But get your dopamine kick in a cup before 21 February.

EERSTE VAN DER HELSTSTRAAT 27 MOCACHOCO.NL

Rum Barrel

This cheerful rum specialist in Spaarndammerbuurt has two tropical hot toddies worth braving the chill for. The Big Kahuna cocktail layers spiced blended rums, coconut cream and foamed milk under a dusting of cinnamon. And the Royal Navy Grog blends Appleton rum with lime sherbet, Pimento Dram, Burdock bitters and a homemade puka puka syrup.

SPAARNDAMMERSTRAAT 17 RUMBARREL.NL

Meat maestro Dean Baker (left) is a bold experimenter, while fish whisperer Slava Nazaryan (right) draws on Asian and French influences.

Dining Out

Where there’s smoke...

Behind a discreet facade near Rembrandtplein, the recently opened char.d brings flame-fuelled finesse to the barbecue genre.

Inside, a chef’s table abuts an open kitchen, while upstairs, old wooden ceiling beams, warm, earthy tones, and candlelight set the scene. High-heat grilling, low-and-slow wood-fire cooking and charcoal roasting on state-of-the-art Kopa BBQ Grill ovens coax out deep, layered flavours from the finest ingredients, while giving the chefs pinpoint control. A square of brioche arrives with Marmite butter, a witty nod to Dean Baker’s British roots. Well-marbled beef skewers,

glazed in barbecue sauce, hit the perfect balance of crust and tenderness. While corn-fed charred chicken with miso brown butter hints at Slava Nazaryan’s stints at various highend Asian eateries. Rich, smoky beef cheek pastrami is a standout, while the crème brûlée is a clear contender for the city’s best. A meal here is a hearty reminder that barbecue can be serious food, not just a weekend hobby.

UTRECHTSESTRAAT 6 CHARD-RESTAURANT.COM

Pastry

24 | CROISSANTS & CO

Four generations in, Lanskroon Bakery still crafts the city’s best stroopkoeken, the crisp caramel-filled kin of the better-known stroopwafel. SINGEL 385, LANSKROON.NL

Find more than 200 types of cookie cutters (from €2.95) at Deksels! Amsterdam in Centrum or Zuid.

Pastry Boom

These are the essential patisseries, where you’ll find Amsterdam’s best croissants, cruffins, croquettes, cookies and more.

Alighting up your feed. Back in the 16th century, the city was already sweet on sugar, home to a thriving refining industry that, by 1700, counted more than a hundred factories. That sugary boom laid the foundations for a bakery culture and for centuries of edible artistry. Generations of family-run banketbakkerijen carried that legacy forward. Some still flourish today, including Kwekkeboom (since 1900), Arnold Cornelis (1902) and Lanskroon (1908). And, of course, Patisserie Holtkamp (since 1969), whose veal croquettes are as classic as its Art Deco address on Vijzelgracht. By the early 20th century, star patissier Willem Berkhoff had taken things to the next tier. He’s famed for founding Europe’s first pastry school right here in Amsterdam in 1924. In recent decades, many traditional bakeries have vanished, squeezed out by supermarket chains and shifting shopping habits. Until recent events created an unexpected pastry boom. Lockdown rules favoured so-called ‘essential stores’, including food and drink specialists, which gave rise to an impressive batch of new patisseries. These days, every neighbourhood once again boasts a great bakery. The pedigreed pastry maestros behind places such as Le Fournil de Sébastien, Gebroeders Niemeijer, Tout, L’Abeille, Pantopia and Grammes are true talents set on elevating the local baking scene in a business where you’re only as good as your last bake.

Layers

Welcome to Amsterdam’s latest Gen Z pastry temple, where concrete and stainless steel reign, comfort clearly didn’t make the prison-core mood board, and everything’s ever-so-slightly overpriced.

French pastry chef Alexandre Scour’s creations do earn their hype, though: flaky fried-chicken croissant burgers, a cult almond-coconut croissant and a cinnamon roll so photogenic it practically begs for its own Instagram handle. Bring your phone, and your overdraft.

SAENREDAMSTRAAT 32, LAYERSBKRY.COM

Margo’s

When cofounder Margot Abdine went plantbased, she channelled her pastry cravings into perfecting the art of vegan lamination, and the Jordaan is better for it. Expect jambonfromage croissants that rival the classics, za’atarfeta danishes, tahini buns and sesame-sea salt cookies. Ceremonial-grade matcha and seasonal lattes round things up. The West outpost (Bellamyplein 18) offers more elbow room.

EERSTE TUINDWARSSTRAAT 2A, MARGOSAMSTERDAM.COM

Bakkerij Al Maghrib

Tip: don’t miss the vegan pistachio cruffins at the nearby TikTok-sensation SAINT-JEAN bakery and deli LINDENGRACHT 158 & 99

Nieuw-West is Amsterdam’s go-to for truly authentic Moroccan pastry, and this humble neighbourhood bakery turns out treats that could transport you straight to Casablanca. Think flaky bastilla with cinnamon and almonds, honeydrenched chebakia cookies, savoury stuffed msemen pancakes and crusty khobz bread, still warm from the oven. Don’t leave without a golden, chicken-filled briwat pastry. It’s fragrant, crispy and utterly addictive.

GULDEN WINCKELPLANTSOEN 44 FACEBOOK.COM/BAKKERIJALMAGHRIB

AMSTERDAM LIGHT FESTIVAL

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From 27 November 2025 to 18 January 2026

EXPERIENCE THE UNIQUE ARTWORKS ON A CRUISE

Legacy is what we leave behind — as individuals and as a collective. It’s not only about grand events that shape history, but also about family traditions, shared memories, and everyday moments that connect us.

From 27 November 2025 to 18 January 2026, discover Amsterdam at its most magical. Cruise along the canals, admire the glowing artworks, and see the city from a whole new perspective.

What’s on

Where to go and what to see

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

28 Feature: Wereldmuseum 30 Exhibitions

32 On Stage 35 On a Budget

36 Henk Schiffmacher

40 Pop & Rock

41 Classical & Jazz

42 On Screen

45 Family & Kids

46 Festivals

Winter at Artis

Journey through the wintering season as the cold descends on the wildlife of ARTIS. One for animal lovers, this seasonal programme lets you meet the red pandas emerging in the cold (zoo), and trek through the solar system looking for ice on other planets (museum). Or head out on a free guided tour that walks you through how animals adapt to the season.

DECEMBER 2025 - JANUARY 2026, ARTIS.NL

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

The art of changing

The Wereldmuseum’s latest exhibition draws inspiration from China’s history of craftsmanship, but its focus on challenging the nation’s manufacturing reputation is what’s most illuminating.

To celebrate Chinese New Year, visit the Wereldmuseum’s Makers Market for crafted Chinese goods.20-21 FEBRUARY 2026; 27 NOVEMBER 202518 JANUARY 2026

The label ‘Made in China’ comes with a range of connotations. And whether good or bad, the term makes you think. That, at least, is what the curators of the Wereldmuseum’s newest exhibition are banking on. Titled Made in China, it explores the country’s long history of craft – from prehistoric China through the Shang and Zhou dynasties up until today – as well as its reputation as a manufacturing giant that has mastered the art of imitation and innovation. ‘There’s almost no one who has zero

and silk robes on show mark how China became a leader in both art and fashion for the continent and the world.

The imitation game

But arguably, the most interesting part comes later. China’s global reputation for copying and imitating products is well documented – brands such as Nike become Mike, Gucci becomes Gncci – even though China has long been at the forefront of new art forms and the subject of imitation itself. Consider how most Asian countries

an idea is universal. Where we care about uniqueness in the West, they care about quality.’ The exhibition looks to showcase that through various examples, one being a selection of gorgeous, delicate block-printed ink paintings, where centuries-old woodblock paintings have been copied into new artworks. This can be painstaking work, but the end result is a near-identical version of the original. ‘Copies of art also make art more accessible,’ says Scholte. ‘It means people can afford beautiful pieces at a fraction of the cost.’

Changing face

perception or opinion on China,’ says Floor Scholte, one of the exhibition’s curators. ‘When people visit us here, there’s a good chance they’ll arrive with some idea of what ‘Made in China’ means.’ And, according to curator Willemijn van Noord, that’s a good thing as it means that that perception can be challenged or even changed. ‘This is about new perspectives on China,’ says Van Noord. ‘With makers as the focus.’

Spread across the museum’s top floor, the exhibition charts a course through Chinese craft history, with the country’s many creations and techniques signalling the turning points in the nation’s manufacturing history. For instance, a 4,000-year-old earthenware storage jar marks the moment China went from a hunter-gather culture to farming in one place, while the array of calligraphy tools

draw from their calligraphy and how Delft Blue takes from Chinese porcelain. And yet the ethos behind China’s copying has rarely been explored. ‘Copying is a part of Chinese culture and it’s a very high-quality art form,’ explains Scholte. ‘[In China]

Still, if China’s manufacturing is prolific – dubbed ‘the factory of the world’ – there are costs to this too. The curation doesn’t shy away from the pitfalls of its relentless production – quotes from factory workers in China point to the exhaustion of Chinese workers as well as the environmental costs. But there’s hope. China’s modern designers – the likes of Susan Fang and Yi Design – are careful about what they produce while bringing heritage traditions to the fore and are part of a movement that looks to recast China as a leader in sustainable manufacturing, rather than simply production. Come the end of the exhibition, an award-winning video game called Black Myth: Wukong is on show, which was inspired by a classic Chinese novel Journey into the West. It’s replete with gorgeous cultural and natural scenery, an ode to the China of the past as well as the future. More than anything, though, it’s proof that amid all the creation, what China always understands is beauty.

UNTIL 31 AUGUST 2026

AMSTERDAM.WERELDMUSEUM.NL

Exhibitions

Erwin Olaf

The first retrospective since Erwin Olaf’s death two years ago, this exhibition explores the life and legacy of one of the Netherlands’ most celebrated photographers. Described as straddling the world of art, fashion photography and commercial interest, Olaf’s work has been defined by his fervent desire for freedom. A champion of gay rights and equal rights for all, this curation charts a freewheeling course through his life, oeuvre and lasting impact.

UNTIL 1 MARCH 2026, STEDELIJK.NL

More than Van Gogh’s Favourite Colour

Much is known about Van Gogh and in particular his love for the world’s sunniest and most exuberant colour: yellow. But this exhibition at the Van Gogh Museum looks to paint yellow in a different way, as something more than just a pretty shade. Through works by Van Gogh and his contemporaries, this is an exploration of what yellow did, and can still, mean – a symbol of light and courage.

13 FEBRUARY - 17 MAY 2026

VANGOGHMUSEUM.NL

Witnessing Life

Co Rentmeester

A pioneer in photography, Dutchman Co Rentmeester helped shape the visual culture of the 20th century. Once a rower and later a photographer, his repertoire covered everything from the Vietnam War to the Olympics. His Jumpman image of Michael Jordan from 1984 ranks as one of the most influential photos ever.

UNTIL 11 FEBRUARY 2026, FOAM.ORG

Metamorphoses

Passion, desire, lust, jealousy, cunning and deceit come to life in this Ovid-inspired showcase.

FROM 6 FEBRUARY 2026, RIJKSMUSEUM.NL

FAILE: Between the Sheets

Brooklyn-based artists Patrick McNeil and Patrick Miller have been leading figures in street art for 25 years. And Between the Sheets marks a moment in time where they can look back as well as forward, on a journey of their career and the works that have made them so successful. One for lovers of street art, graphic design and printmaking, the exhibition sits somewhere in between the old and the new, criticism and nostalgia, and popular culture and art.

UNTIL 18 JANUARY 2026, STRAATMUSEUM.COM

Kusukazu Uraguchi. Shima no Ama

Explore the subterranean and ethereal world of female Japanese divers, as captured by photographer Kusukazu Uraguchi. For 30 years, Uraguchi dedicated himself to capturing the ama (woman of the sea), a collection of Japanese fisherwomen and divers who remain a dwindling community. What he was left with is this exhibition: a collection of 80 photographs that examine the otherworldly vocation of these women and their lesser-known lives.

UNTIL 8 FEBRUARY 2026, HUISMARSEILLE.NL

Get free access to all major highlights and more than 70 museums with your I amsterdam City Card: iamsterdam.com/citycard

Wi Sranan.

SURINAMESE ART IN TRANSITION

This November marks 50 years of Surinamese independence. And Museum Cobra is commemorating that milestone with a special exhibition dedicated entirely to Surinamese Art. Around 24 artists and one collective will present their works on what Surinamese

freedom means, depicting its past struggle, present change and future, with fashion, photography, paintings, installations, film and performance art all on show.

UNTIL 1 MARCH 2026

COBRA-MUSEUM.NL

On Stage

The Nutcracker & the Mouse King

One of the season’s most celebrated shows returns to the National Opera & Ballet stage for a festive run. The Nutcracker and the Mouse King – a tale of an inanimate Nutcracker coming to life to fend off the evil Mouse King – takes ballet form this time as snow-flecked dancers in frosted attire glide across the winter stage. It’s choreographed and designed by Toer van Schayk, who was inspired by the drawings of artist Christiaan Andriessen (1777-1854), which provided a window into an Amsterdam of old.

12 DECEMBER 2025 – 2 JANUARY 2026, OPERABALLET.NL

Giovanni’s Room

Adapted from James Baldwin’s book of the same name, ITA’s Giovanni’s Room promises to capture the darkness, intensity and beauty of its source material on stage. A story that tracks the affair of two men in Paris who, despite their differences, are brought together by desire, this adaptation looks to dig into the difficulties of attraction, identity and the nature of love as something all-consuming, if not forever. (English surtitles available 19 & 26 February.)

15 FEBRUARY 2026 - 1 MARCH 2026, ITA.NL

Circa: Humans 2.0

This trailblazing circus company from Australia has enraptured the world with its deft and gravitydefying mix of acrobatics, dance and theatre. Now it arrives with Humans 2.0, a spectacle where the acrobats form towers, swaying pylons of human bodies jumping and leaping in daring acts. Expect this to be a jaw-dropping night – just don’t forget to breathe as you watch everything unfold.

28 FEBRUARY & 1 MARCH 2026, DELAMAR.NL

Mezrab Storytelling Nights

Head to Mezrab for weekly storytelling nights that bring heart, humour and community together.

VEEMKADE 576, MEZRAB.NL

The Last Ship

A musical by legendary musician Sting, who also plays a lead role in the show, The Last Ship follows the story of a tight-knit community fighting the decline of the shipbuilding industry in northern England. Based on Sting’s upbringing, it’s a tribute to his childhood, filled with folk song and intimate ballads. It’s part of Carré’s series of ‘Broadway in Carré’, a series of English-language musicals from the West End and NYC.

14 JANUARY – 1 FEBRUARY 2026, CARRE.NL

Origin – the future is feminine

The Scapino Ballet Rotterdam brings its magnetic modern dance to the Meervaart Theatre. Part of a new programme by female choreographers and filmmakers, this audiovisual dance experience reinterprets traditional pieces such as Stravinsky’s Le Sacre du Printemps with new feminist perspectives. Traditions, power, humour and absurdism combine in this relentless theatrical production.

31 JANUARY 2026, MEERVAART.NL

Nobody gets the Dutch and the Americans (and even the Brits) better than Derek Mitchell. He’s best-known for his live shows blending standup with cultural commentary, which are a tongue-incheek ode to his adopted homeland. Catch him at the Meervaart Theatre for his Double Dutch Two show, for searing comedy on what it means to be caught between cultures.

18 DECEMBER 2025 PATRONSTAGE.COM/EVENTS

Derek Mitchell –Double Dutch: Two

Get great music and comedy at pubs such as The Waterhole and Checkpoint

Charlie for no extra cost.

KORTE LEIDSEDWARSSTRAAT 49, WATERHOLE.NL

NASSAUKADE 48, CAFECHECKPOINTCHARLIE.NL

Free church concerts

The city’s monument restoration society does wonderful work spotlighting many of the city’s best historical sites and one way is through the concerts it organises in some of Amsterdam’s most storied churches. From the atmospheric De Duif to the pretty Vondelkerk, there’s a range of music from opera to folk, all at an accessible price. Otherwise, pop by De Thomas or De Waalse Kerk every second Tuesday of the month for a free concert.

STADSHERSTEL.NL

On a Budget

Christmas Markets

Throughout the month of December, Amsterdam overflows with festive spirit. Markets have become more than a place to buy food and trinkets – they’ve also become a place to warm up with gluhwein and oliebollen (doughnuts) and find the perfect gifts.

Keep an eye on the cultural agenda online for a roundup of this year’s festive markets and opening times. Beyond the city, there’s plenty organised in the Amsterdam area.

WWW.IAMSTERDAM.COM/EN/WHATS-ON/CHRISTMAS-MARKETS

Free museums

All stored within the monumental De Bazel building – an Art Deco gem that is well worth a visit – the Amsterdam City Archives is the most enormous treasure trove of municipal history in the world. Take a guided tour of the period rooms or visit the fascinating (and free) exhibitions downstairs in the underground vault of a former bank. Otherwise, try OSCAM in Zuidoost, where art, fashion, design and craftsmanship collide.

VIJZELSTRAAT 32, AMSTERDAM.NL/STADSARCHIEF

BIJLMERPLEIN 110-111, OSCAM.NL

Interview

BY: SARA LUIJTERS

‘It’s hard to survive in Amsterdam now’

Tattoo icon and artist Henk Schiffmacher has lived in Amsterdam since the 1970s. He’s always enjoyed exploring the rough edges of the city. ‘I’m always on my way to tomorrow.’

TATTOO VETERAN HENK SCHIFFMACHER:

Henk Schiffmacher and Tycho Veldhoen's store Tattooing is located in De Pijp and works with the best artists in the industry.

CEINTUURBAAN 416 TATTOOING.NL

Tattoo artist, photographer and icon Henk Schiffmacher is 73 years old, but he still comes to the shop on Ceintuurbaan, Schiffmacher & Veldhoen, every day. ‘At three o’clock, the liver starts singing, and then I go to my local pub, Hesp, for an Affligem. If I’m well-behaved, I’ll stick to three. And if it gets out of hand, I’ll have a few glasses of grain wine with it.’ King Alcohol has remained, but Henk’s wife and muse Louise gives him a dressing down if he sits alone at the regulars’ table drinking. ‘After a close call at the cardiology department, where thirty litres of fluid had to be pumped out of my body, she put a stop to my drug use. I do need that finger-wagging, you know. Although I’ve always been too much of a country bumpkin to really lose myself in drugs – I always wanted to function properly, to do my job. I sometimes think the order would have been better reversed: numb yourself when you’re old, your bones ache and you can’t take a shit anymore. Not at seventeen; you shouldn’t waste your life on that stuff then.’

Do you have the eternal life?

‘Physically, I sometimes feel old. I’m finding it increasingly difficult to climb steep stairs, and a visit to the jungle or the desert is no longer an option. I don’t like riding my scooter or bicycle anymore either. I’m too dreamy for fast traffic; before you know it, you’ll be run over by a bike. But mentally, I’m doing well. I always try to keep a positive outlook on things. Although I do have my grumbling periods. Louise then points out that I’m starting to sound like a whiny old man.’

Does the grumbling also apply to Amsterdam, the city you’ve lived in since the 1970s?

‘Yes, definitely. My annoyances are the daily struggle with people who place their rubbish here at the most inconvenient times. Those bags are then pulled apart by a homeless person, and that attracts rats. I can’t stand that people allow their city to become so polluted. I grew up the son of a butcher; we kept our doorstep clean for the customers and the neighborhood, and we do the same at our shop. There’s a retirement home down the road; they should be able to walk past here without rubbish strewn everywhere. There’s absolutely

no enforcement anymore, but you do get a letter saying the municipal taxes are going up again. I wish Amsterdam would get a little more love from its residents.’

You live by the Amstel River and your shop is in De Pijp. Do you still go to the city centre?

‘I hadn’t been there in ages, but I recently rediscovered the tram. I take tram 12 from my house back into the city. After a visit to Paradiso, that saves me a forty-euro taxi ride. I let the city pass by during those tram rides; you laugh out loud at that parade of the Garden of Earthly Delights! The tram rides also inspired illustrations. I don’t often call myself an artist; I find it a loaded word. It’s a craft. The amount of tax you pay now determines whether you’re an artist or not.’

What was your first encounter with Amsterdam? ‘I’m from Harderwijk, and my parents went to Amsterdam twice a year. My father would drink one glass too many gins, and my mother would harp on for weeks about the enormous amount of ham on the Broodje van Kootje at Spui. When I was sixteen, I started dating a beautiful woman I met during the holidays. She was the daughter of a window cleaner from the Indische Buurt. Back then, Amsterdam people with a bit of money all camped on the Veluwe. She was much more interesting to me than someone from Harderwijk – if you weren’t careful, you’d have to marry one of those girls right after visiting them – via the alley and the city gate, straight into the field – because a child was on the way. That wasn’t for me, so on weekends I rode my Puch to Amsterdam-Oost. There, I was taken to Ajax and to the café. I met all sorts of people there, including the Amsterdam photographer Cor Jaring. He loved drinking and photographing people; I was allowed to borrow his Leica, and that’s how I started my photography career. Eventually, I started working for Nieuwe Revu. Professions such as stylists and photographers have been devalued; these days, everyone is an influencer. Forty years ago, I earned much more as a photographer than my daughter Texas, also a photographer, does now. It’s hard to survive in Amsterdam these days. Something went wrong somewhere. I wonder when the real estate agents’ windows will be smashed and the

Henk Schiffmacher

• Comes from a Catholic family of butchers in Harderwijk and, in his own words, ‘has always stayed in the meat business’.

• Studied advertising in Amsterdam in the 1970s and started working as a photographer, typographer, designer, illustrator, painter and tattoo artist.

• In the 1980s he started the first tattoo shop in Amsterdam in the Red Light District where, besides sailors and sex workers, rock stars, footballers, celebrities and Hell’s Angels also got tattoos.

• Immortalised the bodies of members of the Red Hot Chili Peppers, Kurt Cobain, Herman Brood and Lady Gaga, among others.

• Runs his tattoo parlour on the Ceintuurbaan with Tycho Veldhoen (son of artist Aat Veldhoen), with a team of international tattoo artists.

• Has two daughters: Morrison (a tattoo artist in Hollywood) and Texas (photographer), and has been together with his muse and partner-in-crime, artist Louise van Teylingen, for 30 years.

banks stormed. Of course, something will happen at some point, but I’m just afraid it will take a nasty, racial turn. Demonstrations are happening again, but only by a small group of diehards willing to fight. The era of massive demonstrations is over. It’s no longer raining stones, like during Queen Beatrix’ coronation. Or take the initiations. There are currently more boats with bragging students sailing

If a sixteen-year-old girl got a tattoo, she was a pretty unhinged type, but now it’s completely normal.

through the canals than there are boats with refugees that have left for Lampedusa! But otherwise, my love for Amsterdam is enormous.’

Hanky Panky, in the Red Light District, was one of the city’s first tattoo parlours in the late ’80s and attracted world-famous artists, from Red Hot Chili Peppers to Nirvana. These days, you see a tattoo parlour on every street corner...

‘When I started on Oudezijds Achterburgwal, there was only Tattoo Peter and Cor; the selection and clientele were completely different back then. If a sixteenyear-old girl got a tattoo, she was a pretty unhinged type, but now it’s completely normal. The city’s shopping scene has changed enormously in recent years, with all sorts of small, specialty shops disappearing from the streets. Give those antique shops, bookstores and other small businesses a place in Magna Plaza, like Kensington Market in London. That would really be the solution. In Amsterdam, you mainly see a lot of enormous shops with rubber ducks, sweets and cheese. And also tattoo parlours, sometimes four in a row.’

What’s the most beautiful Amsterdam tattoo you’ve ever done?

‘There are several, but my fi rst back piece about Amsterdam was of the exterior of the tattoo parlour on Oudezijds, with all sorts of thugs and sex workers in front of it. What you see now is that people want a piece of the city on their bodies. Not just the Westertoren, but also the Montelbaanstoren and Schreierstoren, surrounded by a typical Amsterdam scene, with bicycles along the canals, for

example. Tycho [Veldhoen, co-owner and tattoo artist of the shop, ed.] is the best at it. There’s a sense of Amsterdam pride in this trend; it often includes people from Purmerend and Almere, originally from the Jordaan, who want to show that they are Amsterdammers. It’s a form of nationalism. ‘Amsterdam is ours’, that idea. It’s accompanied by anti-yuppie and anti-expat sentiments, but it can also go further and become unhealthy. I myself have a Harderwijk Fish Gate on my leg, a childhood drawing by one of my daughters. And the number fourteen, for Johan Cruyff. Tattoos are a non-verbal form of communication; you want to express something. But sometimes the sentiments are a bit false.’

How do you look back on your life at 73?

‘I live in the present and I’m always on my way to tomorrow. I’ve never found looking back on old adventures very interesting. ‘Tomorrow’ is getting a bit messier, I still have a paper planner for the shop, but I always lose it, and I can barely manage my computer and phone. I used to understand Instagram, but now everything has changed again and I don’t understand it anymore.’

What are you most proud of?

‘The fact that I’ve been able to earn my living with a pencil for fi fty years. I still fi nd this the most enjoyable thing to do. I have to, because quitting isn’t an option with the 1,052 euros a month I get from the government. I can’t afford to live in Amsterdam on that.

I’ll work until I die.’ <<

a Every Amsterdamyear, has an internationally renowned Tattoo Convention. The next one will be 4-6 September tattooexpo.eu2026.

Pop & Rock

Judeline – Smooth, sultry indie-infused electronica from one of Spain’s brightest, emerging singers.

27 JANUARY 2026

MELKWEG.NL

King Princess

The Brooklyn-hailing singer broke into the public consciousness with her sultry, retro single ‘1950’ and amped it up further with tracks such as ‘Thalia’ and ‘Upper West Side’. She’s since embedded herself into the pop-sphere, as much for her sound as her outward queer lyricism and appeal. Catch her at Melkweg as she debuts her latest album, a cathartic body of work that captures what it means to begin again.

16 DECEMBER, MELKWEG.NL

Midlake

Folk-rock troubadours Midlake have long set the blueprint for the indie rockers of today, from The National to Fleet Foxes. They still remain a force of their own, armed with a woodsy, wintry sound that blends evocative lyricism with textured rock. Song ‘Roscoe’ is their biggest for a reason – all layered harmonies and ambling guitar –but consider it the entry point to one of indie’s great bands.

10 FEBRUARY 2026, PARADISO.NL

Anna of the North

Arriving just in time for the winter, Anna of the North’s glacial pop sounds are a reminder of why Scandinavians are the foremost pop producers in the world. Best known for her sleek, electro-infused debut album Lovers and frosty siren song ‘Oslo’, catch her in February for a winter chill done right.

8 FEBRUARY 2026, BITTERZOET.COM

The Evening of Film Music: Christmas Edition – This special cinematic showcase returns to the Ziggo Dome. 20-21 DECEMBER AVONDVANDEFILMMUZIEK.NL

Classical & Jazz

Sunday Jazz Sessions

A cosy, hole-in-the-wall student haunt, Café de Engelbewaarder has been hosting weekly live jazz sessions for decades. It’s been the stage for legendary musicians such as Woody Shaw, David Murray and Archie Shepp, and its weekly sessions run every Sunday afternoon from 4:30pm to 7pm. The permanent backing band, consisting of a piano, double bass and drums, invites a different guest player every week, so you’ll get something new whenever you visit.

KLOVENIERSBURGWAL 59, CAFEDEENGELBEWAARDER.NL

Laura Jurd

A Mercury Prize nominee and trumpeter, Laura Jurd is known for her tantalising mix of folk and jazz. Accompanied by her five-piece band – including Irish fiddle player Ultan O’Brien, British accordionist Martin Green, Ruth Goller on bass and Corrie Dick on drums – Jurd’s music reflects a love for folklore and classical composition. Stop by Bimhuis and get swept up in her distinct sonic storytelling.

31 JANUARY 2026, BIMHUIS.NL

Christmas Classics AT THE

MOVIES

For a full-blown classical Christmas, head to The Concertgebouw, where you’ll find the Nordwestdeutsche Philharmonie performing classic festive songs from films for an entire afternoon and evening. Expect music by John Williams, Tchaikovsky and Danny Elfman alongside live renditions of seasonal favourites such as ‘White Christmas’ and ‘Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas’ in a showcase of musical excellence and pure comfort.

28 DECEMEBER, CONCERTGEBOUW.NL

© JEROEN BUSSCHERS

On screen

Cinema contralto

Opera takes to the big screen in a special programme by Pathé and The Metropolitan Opera.

Rows of plush seats redden under the gold lamps and gilded Art Deco interior of Pathe Tuchinski. The audience’s hum begins to fade as the lights dim, and a spectral light settles amid a swell of anticipation. The curtains are drawn as a booming tenor voice crescendos out of the screen. Everything else disappears as a new scene emerges into view – and for a moment, you’re in New York’s Metropolitan Opera.

This is Opera at Pathé, a now time-honoured tradition and collaboration with the Metropolitan Opera in New York, that brings some of the world’s best and most classic operas to the silver screens of Pathé cinemas. A year-long programme, it’s become a beloved tradition among cinephiles and opera go-

ers across Amsterdam and the Netherlands. ‘We’ve been hosting opera screenings at our Pathé theatres for over a decade, now in 20 cinemas across the Netherlands,’ says Anyssa Tlili, spokesperson for Pathé’s opera specials. ‘These events have built a loyal audience of opera lovers and continue to attract strong attendance year after year.’

Part of the programme’s appeal is the experience itself, but also the accessibility. With opera often associated with a high cost and a certain cultural clout, for many, it’s an art form that can feel out of reach. But as Tlili explains, the screenings at Pathé are one way to encourage those who otherwise aren’t able to visit the opera – or simply wouldn’t – to get something close to the real

La Bohème

Pathé Tuschinski

Opera at Pathé

YEAR ROUND, PATHE.NL/EN/INFO/OPERA

Catch these opera screenings:

• Arabella (Strauss)

Classics @

An elegant love story that brings the glamour and enchantment of 19th-century Vienna to life.

7 DECEMBER

• Andrea Chénier (Giordano)

A virtuous poet falls prey to the intrigues and violence of the French Revolution.

13 DECEMBER

• I Puritani (Bellini)

The first new Met production in nearly 50 years of Bellini’s final masterpiece.

10 JANUARY 2026

• Opera Encore: The Magic Flute Whimsical humour and breathtaking puppetry are abound in Mozart’s classic fairytale.

18 JANUARY 2026

experience. ‘By offering the best image and sound quality, audiences can experience every detail as if they were sitting in a real opera house.’

The opera specials run year-round and in each one you’ll be whisked away to the Metropolitan Opera for a couple of hours, accompanied by live and encore performances, and even a free drink. This season, you’ll fi nd a range of operas on show – from classics such as La Bohème to works by Vincenzo Bellini – many of which appeal to newcomers to opera as well as long-time fans. But no matter your knowledge of opera, Tlili says it’s always memorable. ‘[Opera at Pathé] is an immersive and emotional experience because it brings the magic of opera to life on the big screen.’

The smaller cinemas in Amsterdam often have a great classics programme, in which you can see your favourite films on a big screen. Try and check the agenda for FilmHallen, The Movies (West), Kriterion (Oost), Rialto (Zuid) and De Uitkijk (Centrum), among others. Some examples returning to the screens in the coming months: Shaft (1971), The Deer Hunter (1978) and Annie Hall (1977).

Amsterdamned II

Practice your Dutch at the sequel of this classic from the ’80s. The first one came out in 1988 and was a big hit, with a chase scene through the canals of Amsterdam. This new thriller keeps a couple of characters and adds new ones: Huub Stapel returns as a detective, when a young colleague needs his help in solving a case with dead bodies popping up all over the city.

Silent Night, Deadly Night

Of course, you can watch sweet Christmas films that make your teeth hurt. But have you ever tried a Christmas horror? Now playing, is a remake of a controversial film from the ’80s. Silent Night, Deadly Night is about Billy Chapman, who witnesses the murder of his parents as a child, by a man dressed as Santa. Haunted by traumas, Billy puts on his own Santa suit, to get his revenge.

Open daily 10:00 – 18:00 Prinsengracht 116

One-minute walk from the Anne Frank House

Oliebollen – These traditional deep-fried Dutch treats pop up everywhere come the winter –head to Bakker’s Oliebollenkraam for the best in town.

SPAARNDAMMERSTRAAT 792

Family & Kids

Petting zoos and farms World Christmas Circus

For decades, the World Christmas Circus at Royal Theater Carré has been one of the most popular family outings during the festive period. Marvel at the flying trapeze artists, star clowns, enchanting costumes, horse whisperers and daredevils as award-winning acts from the most prominent circus festivals worldwide join forces in one spectacular show for this 39th edition.

17 DECEMBER 2025 - 4 JANUARY 2026, CARRE.NL

Getting children acquainted with animals early on is a great way to teach them things humans otherwise can’t. Kinderboerderij De Pijp has a lovely child-friendly petting zoo, home to an assortment of friendly animals such as rabbits, ponies and donkeys, all happy to receive a little extra attention in the wintertime. There’s also De VerbroederIJ in Noord – home to two very majestic pigs – and Wijkboerderij Wachterlied in Bos en Lommer, which has a large playground along with some chatty goats.

LIZZY ANSINGHSTRAAT 82, KINDERBOERDERIJDEPIJP.NL

JOHAN VAN HASSELTWEG 21, DEVERBROEDERIJ.NL

WACHTERLIEDPLANTSOEN 2, WIJKBOERDERIJWACHTERLIED.NL

Winterparadijs at RAI

The RAI transforms into a winter wonderland in December with indoor and outdoor ice-skating rinks, parties in the Après-Ski Village, dining options galore and fairground rides overlooking the city. Tube across real (fake) snow, cross-country ski between the fir trees, roast marshmallows over a crackling fire, practice your curling skills or join in with a classic snowball fight. When it’s all too much fun, head into the Winter Cinema for nostalgic festive classics.

17 DECEMBER - 3 JANUARY, HETAMSTERDAMSEWINTERPARADIJS.NL

Festivals

Amsterdam Light Festival

The city’s annual light festival returns, this time under the theme of ‘Legacy’ and how we want to be remembered. To glimpse all the installations looking to capture what that means, you have a range of options. Opt for a cruise with one of the many canal companies or follow a self-guided 6.5km walking route that you can dip into at your own pace. Bring your winter coat, camera and a sense of awe. 27 NOVEMBER 2025 - 18 JANUARY 2026, AMSTERDAMLIGHTFESTIVAL.COM

National Tulip Day – Kick off the tulip season where Dutch growers invite everyone to pick tulips for free in a one-off picking garden at Museumplein.

17 JANUARY, TULPENTIJD.NL

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Hortus Winteravonden

This winter, it’s time to get cosy at one of the world’s oldest botanical gardens, as the doors remain open until late for Hortus Winteravonden (Winter Evenings). Venture through the beautifully lit greenhouses – and the new Climate Greenhouse, which spans three climates around the world – as you discover ancient palms and tropical plants. Cuddle up by the campfire with a hot chocolate on the winter terrace and experience exclusive exhibitions featuring night-blooming flowers and much more.

27-30 DECEMBER 2025 & 2-3 JANUARY 2026, DEHORTUS.NL

Lunar New Year

Welcome to the Year of the Fire Horse. Billed as a year of change, dynamism and movement, there’s believed to be a bubbling energy around that will take you from action to achievement. For now, though, kick off the year with celebrations in Zeedijk with a parade of dragons and lions and firework displays above, while open-air food stalls pile your plates high with dumplings and noodles.

17 FEBRUARY 2026

Miffy Santa

TIM City Amsterdam muts

&Klevering Tealight houses

Production Culturespaces Studio® | Artistic Director Nicolas Charlin | Design & Animation Spectre Lab | Music Supervision Start-Rec

Explore Amsterdam’s neighbourhoods City Guide ’s

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

With our online guide, you’ll find out everything about the newest spots in town for food, drink and more: iamsterdam. com/new

Utrechtsestraat Charm

52 Factory Reset

55 Centrum

56 Zuid

57 Zuidoost

58 West

59 Noord

60 Nieuw-West

61 Oost

One of Amsterdam’s prettiest shopping streets looks especially so come the winter. Lit up in fairy lights and an assortment of decorations, there’s an immediate festive air here. Wander down the street past boutiques and artisan shops, before stopping for a warming drink at old-school Café Krom or wine bar Bar Babar, before dinner at snug Italian restaurant Fiaschetteria Pistoia for plates of parmesan-flecked pasta.

BUITENVELDERT

VLIEGENBOS

GAASPERPLAS

Factory Reset

Once upon a time, Westergas’ industry kept the city’s lights burning. But an influx of museums and restaurants transformed it into a place where the city’s culture comes alive.

Wander through the Westerpark from east to west and you’ll first be met by a sweep of green. Walk a little further though and green slowly turns into gold as the dusty amber bricks of the Westergasbriek emerge in full view. Here you’ll find everything you want in a neighbourhood packed into one convenient corner – a buzzy brewery, a visionary museum and some of the capital’s most interesting nightlife venues. It’s one reason this area has been rebranded as the Westergas Cultural District, in a name that speaks more towards the future than the past. ‘There’s no place like Westergas,’ says Lennart Rottier, one of the complex’ owners. ‘Right in the heart of the city, in a green park, consisting of monumental factory buildings. That

alone is unique. For thirty years, this has been the place for art and culture, even in the most experimental sense.’

Embers of industry

But it wasn’t always that way. Up until 1967, this was just a factory. Built in 1885, while the city hummed with activity, it was Westergas that fuelled the lights of Amsterdam. Made up of 17 buildings, they were designed by Amsterdam architect Isaac Gosschalk and known for their lack of excess and style – a slight contrast to the opulent Rijksmuseum that opened the same year. However, in the 21st century, gas production was outsourced to Ijmuiden, and by 1967, Westergas had stopped producing gas entirely. It took until 1992 for things to

Everything you want in a neighbourhood packed into one convenient corner.

Westergas

54 | CITY GUIDE

change. A massive clean-up operation was conducted to rid the area of toxic conditions, which eventually invited creative entrepreneurs with an appreciation for industrial heritage into the space. In 2003, American architect Kathryn Gustafson helped remodel and redesign the space, bringing the Westerpark and Westergas together as trees were planted and alleys drawn between the historical buildings.

Cultural Stage

Now it’s Amsterdam’s creative hub; a space built on five pillars: art, film & photography, theatre & performance, music and food & drink. And more work is being done to enhance it, says Rottier.

‘Since 2018, we have been building a place here where there is always something to do from early morning until late at night… including the iconic Gashouder, which is currently being renovated and will open in 2026 as Amsterdam's cultural stage.’

Cultural spots

MUSEUM VILLA

Dubbed Amsterdam’s Museum

Vorlinden, explore 16 rooms designed by 16 groundbreaking contemporary artists

HAARLEMMERWEG 4, MUSEUMVILLA.COM

HET KETELHUIS

This rugged, industrial cinema is a landmark in Westerpark, hosting international film festivals and arthouse films.

PAZZANISTRAAT 4, KETELHUIS.NL

AMSTERDAM IN MOTION

A multimedia experience that tells the story of the Dutch capital and includes the world’s largest model of a city.

PAZZANISTRAAT 19, AMSTERDAMINMOTION.NL

Going out spots Food spots

Westweelde

The former Westerunie hosts legendary parties across techno and hip-hop to Latin and disco.

KLÖNNEPLEIN 4, WESTWEELDE.NL

Radio Radio

A boutique club known for its daytime radio and a curated lineup of local and left-field electronic acts.

PAZZANISTRAAT 3, RADIORADIO.RADIO

TonTonClub

Asian bistro and arcade with classic button-bashers, Dance Dance Revolution, luxe cocktails and plenty of gyoza.

POLONCEAUKADE 27, TONTONCLUB.NL

Mossel & Gin

Steaming bowls of mussels and goblets of gin are the stars here.

GOSSCHALKLAAN 12

MOSSELENGIN.NL

FABRIQUE DES LUMIERES

Art goes big at this immersive museum where Monet, Vermeer and Van Gogh come to life on massive digital floorto-ceiling canvases.

PAZZANISTRAAT 37, FABRIQUE-LUMIERES.COM

COMEDYTRAIN

Opening mid-January 2026, this is one of Amsterdam’s chief venues for emerging and established comedy acts.

PAZZANISTRAAT 1, COMEDYTRAIN.NL

Cantine de Caron

Indulge in French classics, from crab bisque to grilled poussin, at this cavernous warehouse-esque brasserie.

PAZZANISTRAAT 8

CANTINEDECARON.NL

Troost

This long-time Amsterdam brewery is the perfect spot for beers & bites pre-museum and post-work.

PAZZANISTRAAT 27, BROUWERIJTROOST.NL

R de Rosa

Centrum

Beyond the lights and the action lies a quieter, cosier city centre that’s often missed but never forgotten.

55

A queer-owned and -run café in the heart of the Jordaan, R de Rosa has become a popular haunt for young creatives. Spread across two floors and home to an extensive wine selection, grab a seat at the bar or upstairs and sip on wine over candlelight as the temperatures plummet and the floor-to-ceiling windows frame a magical winter cityscape.

BOOMSTRAAT 41, RDEROSA.BAR

Pianola Museum

This museum is home to a collection of pianos that can essentially play themselves with just a little assistance from music recorded on perforated paper rolls. The library houses some 30,000 music reels and books, and the collection includes gramophone records, phonograph rolls, and LPs. Stop by for one of their concerts staged throughout the year.

WESTERSTRAAT 106

PIANOLAMUSEUM.ONLINE

Kookboekwinkel

Equal parts instruction and indulgence, this bookstore has a monumental selection of titles on food, baking, wine, herbs and beyond. A must-visit for anyone who’s looking for a comforting read for the wintertime and treats their kitchen like it’s the most important room in their home.

HAARLEMMERDIJK 133, KOOKBOEKHANDEL.COM

Inspired by the Swiss capital, indulge in the nation’s favourite dishes, such as bubbling fondue and entrecôte doused in pesto.

NIEUWMARKT 9, CAFEBERN.COM

‘My go-to spots are Café De Linden for a drink – the stained-glass windows make it extra cosy – and then Toscanini for dinner.’

Anika (35), business writer

Cafe Bern

Zuid

Edible Treasures

Not everything in this store is edible, but it is a feast for the eyes. Think beautifully set tables, curated cookbooks and chic homeware.

JACOB OBRECHTSTRAAT 75 EDIBLE-TREASURES.COM

‘Café Caron, for those who like French cuisine. This is the place where guests experience a sense of home.’

Mireille (66), editor

Crema

Home to the city’s best museums and shops, Zuid is always out to impress.

Everyone likes ice cream and cookies – at least that’s what CREMA is betting on. This new spot on the Albert Cuypmarkt has capitalised on the hype for soft serve ice cream with their own speciality flavours and chewy cookies. Made from fresh local milk and cream, Madagascar vanilla and topped with premium olive oil and Maldon sea salt flakes, this soft serve is artisanal. Be sure to order their signature pistachio cookie for the full experience.

ALBERT CUYPSTRAAT 82, INSTAGRAM: CREMA.AMS

Batoni Khinkali

One of winter’s great selling points is its food, and few places do comfort eating quite like Batoni Khinkali. A Georgian restaurant in ritzy Willemspark, this is where you can tuck into bread boats filled with molten cheese and topped with a gooey egg (adjarian khachapuri ), and plump, twisted dumplings stuffed to the brim with meat and vegetables (khinkali ). Grab a glass of orange wine and drink and dine like the Georgians do.

WILLEMSPARKWEG 177A, INSTAGRAM: BATONIKHINKALI

Oldest Cemetery

Right in the heart of Zuidas, Amsterdam’s business district, you’ll find the city’s oldest cemetery. 2025 marks its 190th anniversary, a birthday worth celebrating even for a place of rest. Stroll through its leafy boulevards past sculptures and through sheltered pathways for a quiet moment of reflection and commemoration amid the buzz of the city.

FRED. ROESKESTRAAT 103

BEGRAAFPLAATS-BUITENVELDERT.NL

COMMUNAL COOL

Zuidoost

Home to some of the city’s most exciting spaces and events, Zuidoost is alive no matter the season.

Dimerbos + House of Bird

A young forest in this corner of Amsterdam, the Diemerbos is a great place for birdspotting. In the autumn and winter, grab your binoculars and glimpse the likes of blackbirds and redwing find a place to nest among the forest. Once you’re done, head to House of Bird Brewery for their craft beers or a coffee. They even have birdspotting guides to help you navigate the many winged animals.

Bijlmer Parktheater

DIEMERBOSPAD 1A, HOUSEOFBIRD.NL

Bijlmer

Bookstore

An Afri-centred bookshop known for its collection of books and poetry by Black authors from Africa and the diaspora.

HARIETTE FREEZERSTRAAT 108 A BIJLMERBOOKSTORE.COM

The Black Archives

This historical archive is one-of-a-kind in Amsterdam, a place for crucial conversations and literature from Black perspectives and beyond. The agenda encompasses exhibitions, public programmes and educational activities based on the collections, including books, archival imagery, and artefacts from Black Dutch writers and scientists. Frequently explored topics include race and racism, slavery, gender and feminism, social sciences and development, and more. BIJLMERPLEIN 140, THEBLACKARCHIVES.NL

Located in Nelson Mandela Park, the Bijlmer Parktheater serves as the neighbourhood’s cultural meeting point. Check the schedule for a range of dance and theatre performances, as well as workshops and special events for children and teens. Many production companies also put on their try-out shows here –probably because the audience is so warm and welcoming.

ANTON DE KOMPLEIN 240 BIJLMERPARKTHEATER.NL

‘Cura Flavors by Fritz is a brand-new food truck in Holendrecht, serving authentic Curaçaoan trùkipan cuisine only on weekends.

Tharia (22), student

De Nieuwe Anita is a left-field performance space that’s home to a living room-style bar and experimental programming.

FREDERIK HENDRIKSTRAAT 111

DENIEUWEANITA.NL

‘At No Man's Art Gallery, you can work, lunch and have drinks in a culturally responsible setting. And there’s a wonderful courtyard garden’.

Steven (36), online editor

Young, international and always changing, there’s a reason people say West is best.

The Coffee

While this spot may not win any awards for most original name, it might do for its coffee. The Amsterdam branch of the Brazilian-Japanese franchise The Coffee is inspired by the serene, urban cafés of Tokyo, bringing a calm and coolness to the Dutch capital. You’ll find classic brews, iced coffee, drip coffee and matcha, with their mango iced matcha proven to convert even the harshest of critics.

EERSTE CONSTANTIJN HUYGENSSTRAAT 33 THECOFFEE.JP

The Gathershop

With a background in architecture and interior design, it’s no wonder that Jessica Chapman’s ‘little store selling lovely objects’ is aesthetic. The focus here is on handmade jewellery and homewares from small design studios and makers, as well as books, natural skincare, plants and dried flowers. While you’re here, also check out The Maker Store in the adjacent De Hallen cultural complex.

HANNIE DANKBAARPASSAGE 19, GATHERSHOP.NL

Stacks

North American diners have a storied history, as much for their aesthetics as their food. Stacks recreates the best of both – low-lit, dark tones, and piled portions of the food the US does so well. Buttermilk pancakes and fried chicken, hashbrowns, grits and biscuits all star, while the Atlantic Beach Pie (a twist on key lime pie with lemon curd) and seasonal pies for dessert will have you returning for seconds. DE CLERCQSTRAAT 32, STACKSDINER.COM

Noord

RUGGED REINVENTION

Industrial, arty and happening, Noord might just be a ferry ride away, but it’s a world of its own.

Pelusa

One of the latest spots to grace Noord is gastropub Pelusa. The seasonal menu makes use of an Argentinian parilla smoker to deliver a delicious twist on familiar ingredients. You can choose from a daily-changing selection of main dishes that are possible to share between two to three people. While beer lovers may even be impressed by the selection of wild-fermentation beers and local breweries such as Kromme Haring, Walhalla and Butcher's Tears.

LEEN JONGEWAARDKADE 41, PE LUSA.AMSTERDAM

FC Hyena

This boutique cinema and eatery has transformed the area into an enviable hangout for film lovers. A wide mix of arthouse and popular films is programmed across two screens, each with its own homemade and comfy seating. At the restaurant, tuck into light bites such as tacos, oysters, and pastries freshly baked in the wood oven, along with natural wines from the bar, best sipped on a crisp day by the water before retreating inside.

AAMBEELDSTRAAT 24, FCHYENA.NL

De Duif

A new indie bookshop with social spirit. Expect a curated selection of literature, non-fiction, children’s books and cookbooks.

VALKENWEG 24

BOEKHANDELDEDUIF.NL

Parallel

A futuristic club that’s earned a reputation for hosting some of Amsterdam’s most interesting parties, from dark industrial techno to the Arabic and North African collectives. Located right next to Tolhuistuin, Parallel’s music programming and design is done by Paradiso, which might be why it looks so similar. The pinnacle of any night here is the music but the rotating red cube that descends from the ceiling during the night is an eye-catching display.

BUIKSLOTERWEG 5C, PARALLEL.AM

INSIDER TIP

‘The Verbroederij offers a mean loaded fries and live music on the weekends. Such a good atmosphere and tasty food.’

Giampiero (34), photographer

Nieuw-West

Van Eesteren Museum

Molly’s Arena

NOORDZIJDE 31, VANEESTERENMUSEUM.NL

An anime arcade inspired by Tokyo’s Akihabara district.

OSDORPPLEIN 771

MOLLYS-ARENA.NL

Buzzy, after-hours venues and wintry walks lend Amsterdam’s greenest neighbourhood heaps of seasonal charm.

Cinema De Vlugt

Devoted entirely to architect and urban planner Cornelis van Eesteren, the Van Eesteren Museum is a collection of indoor pavilions and openair exhibits encompassing houses, gardens and entire suburbs. The museum gives insight into Van Eesteren’s ambitious plans for the extension of Amsterdam, showcasing the neighbourhood of Nieuw-West as the pinnacle of post-war urban development and architecture. Catch it in the wintertime for a snow-covered modernist wonderland.

Worlds come together at this arthouse cinema. Located in Plein ’40-’45 neighbourhood, you’ll find an offering of the latest films; from blockbusters to quirky international cinema. It ’s housed in the Vlugt cultural house but is a standout venue on its own; perfect for a beer whether you’re watching a film later or not.

BURGEMEESTER DE VLUGTLAAN 125 CINEMADEVLUGT.NL

Play classic games while you slurp on ramen.

RADION

This multidisciplinary creative haven, located in a former medical office building, hosts everything from sword-fighting workshops to bunker techno nights. You’ll find a steady flow of art, music, dance and other cultural events on the agenda, cinema screenings and a café/bar serving all-day fare – plus some of the city’s best parties.

LOUWESWEG 1, RADION.AMSTERDAM

‘Located next to Sloterdijk, De Sering is both a community kitchen serving affordable lunch and dinner, and a creative space for parties, workshops, film screenings and more.’

Marina (22), student

© JUUK

KRAMER

Oost

EAST-END EXCELLENCE

Thronging markets, a community vibe and laidback eateries, Oost makes it easy to love thy neighbour.

Kriterion

Established in 1945, this student-run cinema emerged from the resistance movement of WWII when its founders became involved in hiding children from persecution. Today, it’s still a meeting place with the café attracting an eclectic crowd of film buff s discussing films and social causes over cheap beers. Along with screenings of progressive films and the more interesting Hollywood flicks, you can catch sneak previews, exhibitions, talks and festival events – so bring your debating hat too.

ROETERSSTRAAT 170, KRITERION.NL

Het Faire Oosten

Step inside this fair-fashion shop for ethical and local products, from whimsical boxer shorts to plantpowered skincare.

WALDENLAAN 208

HETFAIREOOSTEN.NL

Olaf Brood

Inconspicuously located off the Dappermarkt, Olaf Brood has plenty of small-scale charm. The bread, which includes rye, spelt and oat, focaccia and classic sourdough loaves (prices vary), is excellent but just the beginning. In fact, the highlight is probably the pastries: brown butter-glazed krentebollen (raisin buns), buttery madeleines, swirling cinnamon buns and treacle-laced bolus (a type of brown sugar-covered pastry from Zeeland province), all priced at around €2-€5.

DAPPERSTRAAT 42, INSTAGRAM: OLAFBROOD

Counter

A veggie-focused deli in the day and wine bar at night, Counter hits all the markers for an all-day neighbourhood spot at exceptionally good value. In the afternoon, you’ll find a much sought-after but infrequently found lunch menu – a soup, sandwich and sweet all for €10. Come the evenings, it’s all low lights, wine and the family meal – meaning a large portion of quality food such as nasi and tempeh – for €12.

CZAAR PETERSTRAAT 174

INSTAGRAM: COUNTER.AMS

‘Poesiat & Kater Brewery. They have a delicous selection of their own beers, and good vibes all year .’ Pleuni (25), social media specialist INSIDER TIP

COME AND VISIT

Come and visit Muiderslot, the most beautiful and best kept medieval castle in the Netherlands- just 15 kilometers from Amsterdam. Surrounded by water and beautiful gardens, Muiderslot was constructed over 700 years ago. It is one of the oldest and best preserved castles in the Netherlands. The castle arose in 1285 and there are many stories to tell about its long and turbulent history. These days, the castle is a vibrant place enjoyed by many.

FOR MORE INFORMATION AND TO PURCHASE YOUR TICKET, SCAN THE QR CODE OR VISIT MUIDERSLOT.NL/EN/

A

newcomers

• News updates affecting international residents

• Must-do events in the Amsterdam Area

• Invitations to free workshops and info sessions

• Advice on housing, job-hunting, schools, taxes and more

Day Trips

Discover the Amsterdam Area

BY: TOM FLANAGAN

Stadshart On Ice

29 NOVEMBER 2025 – 4 JANUARY 2026

For five festive weeks, the city centre of Amstelveen transforms into a magical winter scene. Warm up with hot chocolate, glide across the open-air rink – perfect for skaters of all ages – and enjoy special daytime and evening activities. Go disco skating and strike a pose with beloved fairytale characters. Don’t forget to consume your annual dose of oliebollen (Dutch doughnuts).

WINTERVILLAGEAMSTELVEEN.NL

Out of a fairytale: Muiderslot Castle boasts real turrets, a real moat and real falcons – all really close to Amsterdam.

MUIDERSLOT.NL

Feast like the Dutch

Winter is the perfect time to take a day trip from Amsterdam and dive into the Netherlands’ (sometimes charmingly odd) activities and culinary traditions.

When the days grow short and the air turns crisp, the region transforms into a cosy spectacle. Canal bridges sparkle under fairy lights, every town centre comes alive with a winter fair or ice rink, and ‘brown cafés’ hum with warm chatter. And if the weather gods deliver a proper freeze, the country loses its cool — quite literally. Every patch of natural ice becomes a scene of pure euphoria.

No Dutch winter is complete without its comforting array of seasonal flavours. From the moment Sinterklaas arrives, bakeries overflow with sweet treats such as pepernoten and speculaas. When the temperature

drops, steaming bowls of snert, hearty stamppot, and hot chocolate keep spirits high after long winter walks or a spin on the ice. And as the year draws to a close, sugar­dusted poffertjes and oliebollen bring a final sweet note to winter's feast.

Grab your coat, wrap up warm and explore the season for yourself. Stroll along festive market squares, sample treats from local street vendors, or if you’re feeling brave, dare to lace up your skates and join in on the fun. Not so keen on crowds? There’s always the Dutch art of uitwaaien: walking through the dunes or along the beach to clear your mind and lift your spirits.

Here’s where to sample the most comforting Dutch flavours this winter.

Festive Season

Snert

It may not always look very appetising, but snert is the ultimate Dutch solution for cold hands and empty stomachs. This thick pea soup (often served with smoked sausage and/or rye bread) tastes best after a typical winter activity. One option is taking a pirouette or two on the ice rink at Amstelveen Winter Village, or an afternoon exploration of the dunes and windswept beaches of Zandvoort, and then quickly warming up at beach bar Tijn Akersloot afterwards.

Appeltaart

The Netherlands’ national pastry comes into its own in the winter

Snert

Appeltaart

Pannenkoeken

months and there’s nothing more enjoyable than sitting on a heated terrace on a crisp winter’s day, tucking into a thick slice of freshly baked apple pie. Many places claim to have the best appeltaart, but Grand Café Brinkmann in Haarlem, Brambergen café­restaurant in ‘s­Gravenland and Brasserij de Bergerrie in Almere come pretty close. Add a cup of hot chocolate with layers of whipped cream, and you won’t want to go home.

Pannenkoeken

Nice things about eating massive pannenkoeken (pancakes) in winter: everything. Drizzle them in syrup and sugar and let the good times roll. The menu at Het Pannenkoekenhuys in Weesp sparkles with at least 75 pancake varieties. Sample the special savoury pancakes with bacon or cheese, or opt for a sweet one with ginger or banana. After a winter walk, enjoy a more traditional pancake lunch at Gasterij Kruisberg, tucked away in the dunes of Heemskerk.

Stamppot

Translated literally as ‘mash pot’, stamppot is a large and lovely mess of mashed potatoes combined with other vegetables, such as sauerkraut, kale, spinach or turnip greens. Embrace this soul­warming dish (and other local delights) at Restaurant de Voetangel in Ouderkerk aan de Amstel, the iconic inn Kraantje Lek in Overveen or the vegetarian restaurant De Groene Afslag in Bussum for a masterpiece of biodiversity.

Oliebollen

Oliebollen (which translates to ‘oily balls’– yum?) are so special that you can only get them for a few short winter months. Traditionally eaten on New Year’s Eve, they’re deep­fried dough balls dusted with

Nothing is more Dutch than ice skating. Want to try? Gear up for €16,- at Museumplein untill 6 Februari 2026

powdered sugar and studded with raisins and currants. Look out for the oliebollenkramen (stalls) at every winter market, such as Winterfair Enkhuizen or the Castle Christmas Fair at Landgoed Duin en Kruidberg. By the way: there’s no way to eat this neatly.

The final round

Want to take a deeper dive into Dutch culinary delights? Then you can’t miss out on a local beer, jenever and of course bitterballen (typical Dutch small croquette). For some of the best views of the fortified town of Muiden, head over to skipper favourite Café Ome Ko, where they’ve been pouring local beers since 1810. No trip to Haarlem is complete without a visit to former church­turnedbrewery Jopenkerk. Whether you’re slurping snert, dusting powder sugar off your jumper, or desperately trying to pronounce the word gezellig to fit in with the locals, here’s one tip to remember: always blow on your bitterbal before taking a bite – don’t say we didn’t warn you.

Oliebollen

Stamppot

Jopenkerk

© KOEN SMILDE

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Scan the QR-code for more information and online ticket sales or purchase your ticket at the ‘I Amsterdam Store’.

Weespermop – Try Weesp’s most famous sweet, a round almond-based biscuit, best enjoyed with a coffee.

Down-River Comforts

A 700-year-old fortified town, Weesp is a cluster of independent shops and cafés, church steeples and photogenic drawbridges.

Ollie Weesp

You’ll find a little bit of everything at Ollie. Founded by Ollie Vrijmoed, make a stop here if you’re looking for a bespoke gift for your home (or someone else); from carefully composed selections of home accessories and tableware to prints and pretty cards.

NIEUWSTAD 24

OLLIEWEESP.NL

HERENGRACHT 23, WESOPA.NL Find out more about the neighbourhood of Weesp at iamsterdam.com/ weesp

BRIDGE TOWN | 71

Café-Restaurant Aaltje

It’s said that the dishes of café-restaurant Aaltje are based on the recipes of the Amsterdam kitchen maid Aaltje, who published the very first cookbook in the Netherlands in 1803. As a result, the food here is imbued with plenty of comfort, with fondue and veal ragout among the standouts. With wood beams and candles, eating here has all the cosiness of home while being out on the town.

HERENGRACHT 33

CAFERESTAURANTAALTJE.NL

City of Wesopa

Wandering past the City of Wesopa, you’ll likely stop for a second look. Far from the gabled canal houses that line most of Weesp’s streets, this towering theatre and cinema is an example of the Amsterdam School architectural style and stands out because of it.

alleys

Christmas Market

For a real winter adventure, Haarlem’s historic canals and old-world charm bring something extra special to the festive season. Take the short journey from Amsterdam and explore its beguiling grandeur during winter, and visit the city’s vast Christmas Market. Offering a traditional take on festive fun, it boasts more than 300 stalls in and around Haarlem’s main square (Grote Markt) and its various shopping streets. Indulge in sweets, stock up on handmade goodies and shop to the soundtrack of live choirs.

VARIOUS LOCATIONS

VISITHAARLEM.COM/KERSTMARKT

The I amsterdam City Card offers a unique way to explore Amsterdam. You get access to all major highlights and more than 70 museums, city-wide public transport, a canal cruise and bicycle rent.

IAMSTERDAM.COM/CITYCARD

Catch a concert in the Grote Kerk

The 16th-century Gothic Grote Kerk dominates the Grote Markt in the centre of Haarlem, a city that, despite its manageable size, is a treasure trove of historical and cultural gems. And there’s no better way to get into the festive spirit than by sitting within the church’s magnificent interior to take in a concert during the winter months. Some events even feature the church’s gigantic organ, constructed in 1738 and once played by a young Mozart.

GROTE MARKT 22, BAVO.NL

Shopping in Amsterdam The Style Outlets

Amsterdam The Style Outlets is the ideal destination for a winter shopping break, offering nearly 100 well-known brands, including Nike, Adidas, Columbia and Tommy Hilfiger. Along with significant discounts on fashion, accessories and sporting goods, you’ll find various cosy cafés and restaurants, making it ideal for a relaxed day out with friends or family. Ideally located between Haarlem and Amsterdam, the outlet is easily accessible by public transport via the nearby Halfweg train station.

SUGARCITY RING 1 AMSTERDAM.THESTYLEOUTLETS.NL

How to get there

Take the train from Amsterdam Central to Haarlem station (20 minutes)

Castles & Gardens

Find out more about day trips to Castles & Gardens on iamsterdam.com/ castles-and-gardens

The royal treatment

Moated castles, patchworks of forest and grand estates await in this winter landscape.

Tick, tick... BOOM! –

Experience this internationally acclaimed millennial musical live at Theatre de Landing, performed entirely in English. DELANDING.NL

Muiderslot Winter Castle

Venture back in time to the Middle Ages at Muiderslot Castle, known for its impressive drawbridge, turrets, preserved battlements and fantastic views from the ramparts. Audio tours reveal the stories of winters passed, while you’ll find the interiors decked out in candles and festive decor. Keep an eye on the agenda for seasonal choir concerts, dining experiences, storytelling nights, historic tastings and festive children’s workshops, from mid-December to mid-February. HERENGRACHT 1, MUIDEN, MUIDERSLOT.NL/EN

A breath of fresh air

Embrace the crisp air and wide-open landscapes of the Gooi & Vecht region with a refreshing walk across the heaths. Follow the Tafelberg and Blaricummer Heath Trail (7.5 km) for sweeping views and a cosy stop at De Eendracht restaurant in Blaricum. Or try Rondje van de Tuinman in Hilversum, where woodland trails and local flavours make for a perfect countryside escape.

DEEENDRACHT-BLARICUM.NL

BIJDETUINMAN.NL/WANDELEN/

Winterlicht at Pampus

This November and December, Winterlicht invites you to a magical dining adventure on the uninhabited fortress island of Pampus. Departing from Amsterdam-IJburg, this unforgettable experience costs €95 per person and includes ferry crossing, a four-course dinner, a welcome drink and a small contribution towards the island’s preservation. Begin with appetisers in the beautifully lit fort, then head to the heated pavilion for your main course and dessert. The fortress isn’t heated, so dress warmly; especially your feet!

FORT PAMPUS 1, PAMPUS.NL

How to get there

Muiderslot Castle: Take the train from Amsterdam Central Station to Weesp station, then transfer to bus 110 to Muiden Centrum bus stop (30 mins)

Naarden: Take bus 209 from Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA to bus stop Westwalstraat, Naarden (40 mins)

Singer Laren Museum: Take the train from Amsterdam Central Station to Hilversum station, transfer to bus 108 or 109 to Laren (50 mins)

Pampus Island: Take tram 29 from Amsterdam Central Station to the IJburg ferry service.

Batavia Stad Fashion Outlet –Enjoy designer shopping deals and I amsterdam City Card discounts at this stylish open-air outlet. BATAVIASTAD.NL

New land

Entirely reclaimed from the sea, the Netherlands’ youngest province proves that human hands can shape even the wildest natural environments.

Find out more about day trips to New Land on iamsterdam.com/ new-land

Taming the

wild

Batavialand

Thermen

La Mer Day Spa

Refresh your body and soul at this exclusive day spa. Soak your cares away in the Finnish Kelo saunas, swim in the pool or unwind in the hot tub. After a plunge, stroll around the Mediterranean garden or indulge in tasty dishes at the restaurant. Located just outside the city centre of Almere, the spa allows you to truly immerse yourself in luxury and pleasure – if only for one day.

SCOUTINGPAD 3 THERMENLAMER.NL

where the battle against the water in Lelystad first began.

Discover 7,000 years of Dutch history at Museum Batavialand in Lelystad. Explore a reconstruction of VOC ship Batavia, uncover Flevoland’s story from prehistoric times to land reclamation, and learn how the Dutch mastered life between land and water. Children can enjoy interactive exhibits, conduct water management experiments, and step into the roles of a dyke builder, archaeologist or lock keeper. Visit Werkeiland to see where the battle against the water in Lelystad first began. OOSTVAARDERSDIJK 1-13, BATAVIALAND.NL

Marker Wadden

Marker Wadden, part of Nieuw Land National Park, is a developing nature reserve of small islands built from sand, clay and silt from the Markermeer lake. Flourishing plant life above and below water create a haven for fish and birds. Delve deeper into the Marker Wadden on the Abel Tasman sailboat with a Natuurmonumenten guide or join the Marker Wadden Experience Tour –boarding from either Lelystad or Almere, starting with a VR bus and a guided cruise showcasing Flevoland’s unique history. FLEVOLAND, MARKERWADDEN.NL

How to get there

Almere and Lelystad: Take the train from Amsterdam Central Station to Almere Centrum (20 minutes)

Take the train from Almere Centrum to Lelystad Centrum (14 minutes)

Nieuw Land National Park: Take the train to Almere Oostvaarders Station. From there, it’s a 20-minute walk to the Visitor Centre (60 minutes)

From Lelystad Centrum, it’s a 20-minute bike ride.

Old Holland

Find out more about day trips to Old Holland on iamsterdam.com/ old-holland

Village life

With its picturesque townlets, artisan history and lush windmill-studded landscapes, discovering this region feels like stepping back in time.

Fort Resort Beemster

Escape the winter chill at this luxurious spa set within a 19th-century fortress that forms part of the UNESCO-listed Defence Line of Amsterdam, a historic network of fortifications built to protect the city. Enjoy salt baths, hot tubs and saunas amid the serene countryside. The only problem is, you might not want to get out.

NEKKERWEG 24, FORTRESORTBEEMSTER.NL

Ice skating in Purmerend – In Purmerend, the Koemarkt (Cattle Market) comes alive as a festive ice skating rink, where visitors can skate under the stars and sip hot chocolate.

KOEMARKT, KOEMARKT.COM

Hembrugterrein

Once a military complex, Zaandam’s Hembrugterrein now fuses industrial heritage with creativity. Explore converted warehouses, dine in atmospheric spaces and view the thought-provoking portraits at the Museum of Humanity. For a deeper dive into the site’s history, visit the HembrugMuseum, where former workers bring its past vividly to life.

HEMKADE 18, ZAANS.NL/EN

Windmill-spotting in chocolate heaven

Just north of Amsterdam, the Old Holland region transforms into a winter wonderland of whirring windmills, cosy villages and the irresistible scent of chocolate. Wander through the historic Zaanse Schans to see the Netherlands’ industrial heritage come alive, then warm up with some classic Dutch pea soup or explore the Zaans Museum’s Verkade Experience to watch chocolate being made the old-fashioned way.

SCHANSEND 7, ZAANSMUSEUM.NL

How to get there

Zaandam and Zaanse Schans: Take the train from Amsterdam Central Station to Zaandam station (two stops further is Zaanse Schans station) (15 minutes)

Fishing villages: Take the bus from Amsterdam Noord metro station to Monnickendam (15 minutes), Marken (30 minutes), Purmerend (40 minutes) and Volendam (30 minutes).

Hembrugterrein: Take the train from Amsterdam Central Station to Zaandam station, then take bus 64 to Hembrugterrein (50 minutes)

The Windmill Museum Zaanseschans

Zaans Museum’s Verkade Experience

© PAULINE ARKESTEIJN

© MIKE BINK

Landgoed De Zuilen – Wander through peaceful gardens and blooming landscapes, and all for free.

DE-ZUILEN.NL

Silent season

The

world-famous flower strip also glows in the winter, when hushed meadows and serene lakes are

just as stunning.

Museum De Zwarte Tulp

Located on the Dorpsplein ’t Vierkant square in the centre of Lisse, Museum De Zwarte Tulp (Black Tulip Museum) tells the history of the Netherlands’ bulb region, as well as the origins and the development of bulb culture, through an interactive exhibition for the whole family. There’s also a significant collection of botanical prints alongside paintings, glass, silver and porcelain, and changing exhibitions of contemporary art.

GRACHTWEG 2A, MUSEUMDEZWARTETULP.NL

Find out more about day trips to the Flower region on iamsterdam.com/ flower-strip

Kunstfort bij Vijfhuizen

Keukenhof Castle

Its showy neighbour may perpetually outshine it, but this castle (located straight across from the world-famous Keukenhof gardens) boasts an impressive history with 17th-century roots. Inside, you’ll find portraits, artefacts and period furniture. The estate now measures some 240 hectares and is home to 15 listed buildings, an art museum, café, petting farm and walking paths. Check the website for upcoming events and exhibitions.

KEUKENHOF 1, KASTEELKEUKENHOF.NL

The Haarlemmermeerpolder is sprinkled with age-old forts, each revived in its own creative way. Many form part of the Defence Line of Amsterdam, a UNESCO-listed ring of fortifications built between 1880 and 1914 to protect the city. Among them, Kunstfort bij Vijfhuizen stands out, combining exhibitions, a restaurant and gardens. Nowadays, the fort is also home to Tolmanns Distillery, which produces Dutch gin, jenever and whisky.

FORTWACHTER 1, KUNSTFORT.NL

How to get there

Keukenhof Castle: Take the train from Amsterdam Central Station to Haarlem station. Then take bus 250, to bus stop Lisse.

Royal FloraHolland: Take bus 357 from Amsterdam Elandsgracht bus station to bus stop FloraHolland

Kunstfort bij Vijfhuizen: Take the train from Amsterdam Central Station to Haarlem station. Then take bus 300, to bus stop Vijfhuizen.

Museum De Zwarte Tulp: Take the train from Amsterdam Central Station to Haarlem.Then take bus 250, to bus stop Lisse.

Villa Westend – Until 1 March 2026, this lakeside hideout transforms into a winter paradise with an onsite ice rink, glass pavilion and curling lane offering panoramic views of the serene waters. WESTLAAN 41, VILLA-WESTEND.NL

Salt in the air

Stripped-back and beautiful, the coastline around Amsterdam is cut by sloping dunes, rugged national parks and clear, crystalline views.

Winter lights at Zandvoort

Experience Zandvoort at its most magical this winter. During the day, the Winter Wonderland Ice Rink in the city centre offers three weeks of skating, curling and fun for all ages, complete with a cosy terrace and seasonal treats. On 31 January 2026, the Zandvoort Light Walk transforms the town after dark into a dazzling display of light art. Choose from routes of 6 to 18 km along the beach and through the centre, enjoying a spellbinding evening walk with family or friends.

RAADHUISPLEIN, VISITZANDVOORT.COM

High Tea

BrederodeatRuins

New Year’s Swim

Join locals in an icy North Sea plunge to start the year fresh in what has become a cherished tradition across the watery region. 2026 marks the 60th anniversary of brave swimmers rushing into the sea at Zandvoort aan Zee, a perfect way to wake up after a long and celebratory New Year’s Eve.

From November 2025 to February 2026, the Brederode Ruins offers a cosy winter experience amid its historic walls. Explore the restored caretaker’s house, enjoy mini-exhibitions and take part in a High Tea every Sunday, which combines seasonal treats with fun. Kids can dress up as knights or damsels, discover the castle’s rooms and play traditional games, making it a perfect family-friendly winter outing.

VELSERENDERLAAN 2

RUINEVANBREDERODE.NL

1 JANUARY, NIEUWJAARSDUIKZANDVOORT.NL

to get there Zandvoort: Take the train from

Subscribe to I amsterdam Magazine

I amsterdam Magazine is Amsterdam’s o cial city guide, packed full of insider tips for what to do and see in the city. With background information on Amsterdam’s best sights and events, plus excellent suggestions for discovering lesser-known spots. Written by people who know and love the city, it will take you through everything Amsterdam has to o er day-by-day, pointing out the cherished places we wouldn’t want you to miss out on. Plus handpicked agenda listings for music, theatre, clubbing, exhibitions, festivals and family activities, as well as in-depth features on trends, neighbourhoods and more. Every season, four times a year – your guide to the city of Amsterdam.

Your seasonal guide to Amsterdam – four times a year

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Coffee-table book Amsterdam

For over 10 years, National Geographic photographer Cris Toala Olivares captured the Dutch capital’s transformation from a unique perspective – ying above the city centre, climbing towers, and exploring its streets. His book, Amsterdam (€55), is a stunning gift to celebrate the city’s 750th anniversary.

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My Amsterdam

BY: MEREL CORDUWENER

In each edition, we ask a local illustrator to share their view on Amsterdam.

My name is Merel Corduwener and I’ve lived in Amsterdam since 2013. I work as an illustrator in my studio in the north of Amsterdam, in A Lab. Currently, I don’t get to visit many exciting places; I mainly sit on benches and cuddle my baby. It’s actually a new way of experiencing the city. I pretty much stay in my neighbourhood, Oostelijk Havengebied, which is such a nice part of Amsterdam. The best thing about it is that all of my friends live in the same neighborhood, and we run into each other all the time, which feels very Friends-like. The oliebollen stall is back (check it out), and I always feel like that’s the start of the festive season, and I love Christmas. I also really enjoy ice skating at the Jaap Edenbaan, which adds to the winter feeling.

On the Way Out

‘I feel most at home in the East. I grew up near the Dappermarkt and Oosterpark and I used to hang around there all the time, checking out the tokos (Indonesian shops) and trying new snacks. Those spots still feel very familiar and comforting to me. But I grew up in Decatur, Georgia as well, so there’s always been a place in my heart for comfort food, like you get at Stacks Diner.’

Nefta Tevreden, project executive

editor-in-chief

B art van Oosterhout art director & basic design

‘As an Aussie, I generally tend to gravitate towards warm places. Ironically, I ended up in Amsterdam, but there are plenty of cosy spots that make me feel at home, despite the cold. I love a gezellig corner in a dimly lit ‘brown café’, such as Café de Nieuwe Lelie with friends or an afternoon at Sauna Deco. Home is where the heat is.’

followed by dinner at Aguada next door – a tiny me a little nostalgic.’

‘I’ve always lived in a city but it’s the quieter spots that remind me of where I grew up in Bern, Switzerland. In Amsterdam, Kriterion is one of my favourites to stop by for a drink (plus it has a cat), followed by dinner at Aguada next door – a tiny family-run restaurant with a small but eclectic menu. The fondue and bread never fail to make me a little nostalgic.’

Tom Flanagan, culture editor

Yke Bartels, Saskia Franken designer

Martijn Blokland deputy editor Karin Thybaut proofreader

Julia Gorodecky contributors

Theresa Auer, Jaap van den Beukel, Senay Boztas, Lauren Comiteau, Merel Corduwener, Karin Engelbrecht, Tom Flanagan, Sara Luijters, Sara Madou, Monique Wijbrands

Anika Morris, business editor

‘I feel at home in most parts of the city as I spend a lot of my free time exploring different neighbourhoods and capturing street photography. If anything, I feel quite comfortable in Amsterdam’s ‘Chinatown’. Being born and raised in the Caribbean, it might seem like a stretch for me to find comfort and familiarity there, but I lived in Southeast Asia for a bit, so it’s always a nostalgia-fuelled visit.’

Giampiero Maietti, senior social media editor

‘Since moving to Amsterdam, I’ve found an immense amount of comfort in my local cinemas. Studio K is a favourite. There is something about the atmosphere that feels welcoming – I loved going to see filims back home in the US, but Dutch cinemas really excel at providing a space where you can just relax and be yourself.’

Louise Grayson, international conventions editor

Hello, I’m A’DAM - a tower of many talents. A place where you can eat, work, rave, sleep. Repeat. 24/7, all under one roof. Ready to discover some of my stories?

A’DAM LOOKOUT | 20th & 21st floor

Looking for the ultimate high? Visit my observation deck on top of the A’DAM Tower and enjoy my unrivaled panoramic view of Amsterdam, from the city center and its canals to the countryside.

‘Over the Edge’ Swing | 21st floor

For the daredevils and thrill seekers among us, I have this famous swing that dangles at 100 meters above the ground. Swing back and forth over the edge of the A’DAM Tower with Amsterdam under your feet!

Restaurant & Sky Bar Madam | 20th floor

During the day, the Panorama Restaurant is part of A’DAM LOOKOUT. But as soon as the sun goes down, the music goes up – and the Panorama Restaurant transforms into Restaurant & Sky Bar Madam: Amsterdam’s highest sky bar for casual dining and the best cocktails in town.

Revolving Restaurant Moon | 19th floor

Making a full rotation per hour, Restaurant Moon provides a truly unique gastronomic experience. Let us take you on a fascinating journey through flavors and aromas combined with a fantastic 360 panorama view of Amsterdam.

Shelter | Basement

My underground nightclub is located in the basement of the A’DAM Tower. Known for its Funktion-One sound system and high-tech LED-panel ceilings. Shelter’s iconic hatch is open every Friday and Saturday night from 23 till 6 am.

A’DAM VR | Basement

Descend into the underground A’DAM VR Game & Race Park and discover a world of boundless imagination filled with the most exclusive thrill-seeking simulation rides, sensational free-roaming shooters and exhilarating escape rooms.

Banksy Warhol Basquiat Haring