HOLLAN D & SH E RRY IS PLEASED TO IN T RODUCE the first truly effective all weather fabric whose breathability performance remains unsurpassed.
ITS SE C RE T lies in the uncoated and unlaminated construction. The fabrics are 100% cotton, utilising the finest, long staple fibres, only found in the top 2% of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crop. After gentle spinning and doubling, the yarn is woven into a very dense Oxford weave, using up to 30% more yarn than conventional woven fabrics. The performance of these fabrics results from the properties of cotton fibres which expand when they come into contact with water. The combination of fibres, yarns and weave causes expansion in a uniform manner. This allows the interstices within the fabric to close up, preventing the further passage of water. In addition to this, the fabric is impregnated with a high quality DWR system which enhances the fabrics water resistant properties and increases performance. The fabric therefore provides excellent protection against the wind, rain, snow and cold.
QUALITIE S The fabrics in this collection are... WEATHERPROOF Protects you from wind, rain, sleet and snow. WINDPROOF The tight construction of the fabric keeps out the wind and hence helps protect from wind chill. BREATHABLE Have a high moisture vapour transmission rate helps keep you dry when active. NATURAL 100% COTTON The benefit of cotton with environmental peace of mind. COMFORTABLE Enjoy the great outdoors and strolling down the high street in equal comfort. DURABLE The fabric is very long lasting. You can expect years of use from a Holland & Sherry trenchcoat. QUIET No “rustle” and is ideal for camera work, hunting or bird watching where noise would be a problem. RELIABLE The fabric’s proven performance over many years means that garments won’t suddenly breakdown unexpectedly.
PERFORMAN CE With care, these fabrics offer long life, superior breathability and excellent protection against wind, rain and snow, with the added advantage of being quiet and comfortable. BREATHING As the fabric allows ventilation better than synthetic performance fabrics, eyelets or vents are unnecessary. WATER PROTECTION In extremely wet conditions the fabric may slightly darken and stiffen. The change in the physical appearance of the fabric indicates that a small amount of water has been absorbed to allow fibres to swell and thus stop the passage of water through the garment. Drying in normal conditions is fast. WIND PROTECTION The close weave stops wind passing through the garment, preventing the wind chill factor from having a detrimental effect. QUIETNESS The fabric is relatively rustle free; useful for many sporting needs and those who want to be at one with nature. The noise free characteristic also adds greatly to the comfort of the wearer in everyday use.
TAKIN G CARE OF YOUR TRENCHCOAT CHEMICALS Damage to fibres can occur when in contact with acids, bleaches and detergents. If contact does occur, soak thoroughly in cold water. SAND AND GRIT Sand and grit increases the abrasion on cotton fibres and can reduce the life of the jacket. Please brush off all sand, grit and mud once dried. CLEANING This fabric should be dry cleaned only. Professional dry-cleaning in: perchloroethylene, hydrocarbons. Mild cleaning process with stringent limitation of added humidity and/ or mechanical action and/or temperature. Commercial stain removers on a solvent base may be used with some restrictions. A trial on a concealed part of the article is advisable beforehand. REPROOFING Your garment may eventually require a reproof, we recommend using either Grangers XT Spray or Grangers 30 Degree Performance Proofer.
OV ERCOMIN G ‘SEAM PUCK E R’ DURIN G TAILO RIN G There are three potential causes of seam pucker. 1. INHERENT OR STRUCTURAL JAMMING Follow the above recommendations for stitching. For top stitching/decorative stitching or raised seams, a stitch density of 8-9 stitches per 2.5cm is recommended. 2. DIFFERENTIAL FEEDING PUCKER The types of seams used in the manufacture of protective outerwear are more prone to this type of pucker, irrespective of the fabric constructive used. 3. THREAD TENSION PUCKER This type of pucker can occur on any type of fabric, but if the machine is serviced and adjusted correctly and the following procedure is adopted should present few problems.
PROCEDURE • The spool or bobbin winder should be set to the minimum tension that will wind an even spool. • Reduce tension of the spoolcase so that it will just support the weight of a full spool and case when suspended by the free end of the thread. Note – extra allowance must be made if devices to avoid spool spin are being used. • The needle thread tension should then be adjusted to the minimum which will give a well balanced stitch. Note – ensure the take up spring is functioning correctly. • Ensure that all parts of the machine which come into contact with the sewing threads are smooth, highly polished and free from burrs. • Ensure that the rotary hook mechanism is synchronised correctly.
STITCHING SPECIF ICAT ION • Use double lapped felled seams. Do not use plain or raised seams. • Use core-spun polyester thread – Polyfill 120 / Coats 180’s poly poly. • Use as fine a needle diameter as possible, i.e 70’s or 80’s a round point needle with a triangular tip (Schmetz SD1 is recommended).
Double lapped felled seam
Single lapped or raised seam
RECOMMEN DAT ION S Differential Feeding Pucker This type of pucker can be greatly reduced by the use of a compensation foot to accommodate the differing thickness of the seam either side of the needle. To gain maximum benefit an independent type of compensation foot should be used. This allows even pressure to be applied. Thread Tension Pucker Tensions applied to the sewing threads must be kept to a maximum and the threads must have minimum shrinkage at the pressing stage.
Holland & Sherry is one of the most prestigious cloth weavers in the world. For over 180 years Holland & Sherry has played a leading role in supplying luxury cloths to the top end of the market and bespoke tailors. A bespoke tailored garment in luxury Holland & Sherry cloth is truly an investment and always a pleasure to wear. Since the very beginning in 1836, Holland & Sherry has supplied the famed bespoke tailoring houses of Savile Row with the absolute top-end luxury cloth.
WO R LDW I D E OFFICES UK Holland & Sherry Ltd 9/10 Savile Row, London, W1S 3PF Tel: +44 (0)207 437 0404 Fax: +44 (0)207 734 6110 email@example.com Australia Holland & Sherry Pty Ltd Room 48A, 4th Floor 104 Bathurst Street Sydney NSW 2000 Tel: +61 (0)2 9267 8030 Fax: +61 (0)2 9267 1402 Interstate customers: 1800 221 031 firstname.lastname@example.org France Holland & Sherry Paris 17 rue de l’Echaudé, 75006 Paris Tel: +33 1 42 33 36 14 Fax: +33 1 40 26 51 85 email@example.com Germany Holland & Sherry GmbH Ottostrasse 5, 80333 München Tel: +49 (0)89 215 470 470 Fax: +49 (0)89 215 470 479 firstname.lastname@example.org Italy Holland & Sherry Srl Via Cosimo del Fante 10, 20122 Milano Tel: +39 02 58 32 48 41 Fax: +39 02 58 32 48 58 email@example.com
USA & Canada Holland & Sherry Inc 330 East 59th Street, 6th Floor New York, NY 10022 Tel: +1 212 758 1911 Fax: +1 212 758 1967 Toll Free: 800 223 6385 firstname.lastname@example.org Spain Holland & Sherry Spain Avenida del Pinar 31 28925 Alcorcón, Madrid Tel: +34 917 788 701/ +34 620 314 602 Fax: +34 917 788 701 email@example.com Dubai UAE Holland & Sherry Middle East (LLC) Sama Tower, Suite 204 - Level 2 Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai P.O. Box 62489 Tel: +971 4 358 5151 Fax: +971 4 358 5252 firstname.lastname@example.org UK Warehouse & Administration Holland & Sherry Ltd Venlaw Road, Peebles EH45 8RN, Scotland Tel: +44 (0)1721 720101 Fax: +44 (0)1721 722309 email@example.com