Northern lights PAGE 30
Midcentury modern Chinese PAGE 19
BREAD WINNER
Leap for local PAGE 10
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Here’s the tea PAGE 7
Homegrown Issue 2019
DEFINED CHANGES REMARKABLE DIFFERENCE THE LEXUS IS Every well-crafted detail in the Lexus IS was carefully thought of to give you an enhanced driving experience. It has sharply-designed headlights for a sporty edge, a bigger front grille for improved aerodynamics, revamped alloy wheels for a stylish spin, and upgraded LED taillamps for a sleeker look. Because we believe in always giving you an amazing drive. Visit Lexus Manila at Bonifacio Global City, Taguig for the IS 350 and IS 350 F-Sport. Lexus.com.ph
/LexusManila
@LexusManila
(632) 856 5050
EXPERIENCE AMAZING
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EDITOR'S NOTE
Past to present There’s greater clamor now for products that are homegrown, and the sheer amount of enterprises and brands highlighting local crafts, communities, and causes that have emerged over the recent years is proof. It’s not just the reemergence of traditional crafts that has gained popularity these days though; it’s how these products have evolved through the infusion of heritage and innovation. In this issue, we take a look at both: aside from checking out the newest spots in the metro, we look back and dissect the Filipino’s second favorite carb—noodles— and trace the origins of various types; we also visit an artisanal panaderya, the origins of which are as storied as the nook it stands on; and with the resurgence of the Filipiniana as essential formal wear, we spot some easy to reach sources for those last-minute gigs. Sarah Canlas, whose weekend home Casa Canlas in Antipolo we feature in this issue, also gives us a glimpse into how to integrate the locality and surroundings into a design that’s truly home. This quarter, we realize there’s really no single way in looking at the past— sometimes, as this issue proves, we can do it by looking at the present.
Pauline Miranda Associate managing editor
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What’s your favorite book “ILUSTRADO” BY MIGUEL SYJUCO WILL ALWAYS HOLD A SPECIAL PLACE IN MY by a Filipino writer? HEART. THE NONLINEAR WORK STARTS AS A NOIR NOVEL AND VERY QUICKLY TAKES MANY AUTOBIOGRAPHICAL AND METANARRATIVE TURNS, ALL THE WHILE SKEWERING THE MANILA ELITE.
EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT / GROUP PUBLISHER BEA J. LEDESMA
EDITORIAL MANAGER ERIC NICOLE SALTA
ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR PAULINE MIRANDA
JUNIOR CONTENT CREATORS ZOFIYA ACOSTA BEA NICOLE AMARILLE GABRIELLE PARLADE CHRISTIAN SAN JOSE ANGELA PATRICIA SUACILLO
JESSICA ZAFRA’S “MANANANGGAL TERRORIZES MANILA AND OTHER STORIES.” I REALLY LIKED HER SHARP AND WITTY WRITING STYLE—AND HER STRONG FEMALE CHARACTERS DEFINITELY KEPT ME ENGAGED.
CREATIVE DIRECTOR NIMU MUALLAM
JUNIOR DESIGNERS
CLARISSE ALFONSO LEVENSPEIL SANGALANG
STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS AND VIDEOGRAPHERS ARGYL LEONES SAMANTHA ONG JP TALAPIAN BEA TAN JONAS TIMBREZA
“THE SUMMER SOLSTICE AND OTHER STORIES” BY NICK JOAQUIN. I LIKE READING STORIES THAT ARE CRITICAL OF THE GENDER DIVIDE, ESPECIALLY BECAUSE IT’S STILL APPARENT THESE DAYS.
BOARD CHAIRPERSON ALEXANDRA PRIETO-ROMUALDEZ IGC CHIEF INVESTMENT OFFICER J. FERDINAND DE LUZURIAGA CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER ATTY. RUDYARD ARBOLADO HR STRATEGY HEAD RAYMUND SOBERANO VP AND CHIEF STRATEGY OFFICER IMELDA C. ALCANTARA HEAD OF OPERATIONS AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT LURISA VILLANUEVA
This magazine was printed responsibly using recycled papers with biodegradable inks. Northern Living is published by Hinge Inquirer Publications. 4F Media Resource Plaza, Mola corner Pasong Tirad Streets, Barangay La Paz, Makati City. Visit www.facebook.com/nolisoli.ph now. Follow us on Instagram at @nolisoli.ph and Twitter at @nolisoliph. We’d love to hear from you. Email us at nolisoli@hinge.ph. For advertising, email sales@hinge.ph.
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KEY ACCOUNTS SUPERVISOR ANGELITA TAN-IBAÑEZ KEY ACCOUNTS OFFICER ALETHEIA ORDIALES SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES KYLE CAYABYAB, XENIA SEBIAL ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES CHLOE DIANNE CARTONEROS, JOY GALURA, ROSE MAMONONG, ANDIE ZUÑIGA SALES COORDINATORS FAITH CASIDO, ERIEKA OLITRES SALES SUPPORT ASSISTANT RECHELLE NICDAO
I HAVEN’T HAD THE CHANCE TO READ TOO MANY FILIPINO BOOKS, BUT I LOVED READING “TRESE,” A MYSTERY/ HORROR GRAPHIC NOVEL.
CONTRIBUTORS WRITERS
PIERRA LABRADOR
PHOTOGRAPHER JAR CONCENGCO
ILLUSTRATORS KRISTINE PAZ SAYYEDA SHAH
PROOFREADER
CATHERINE ORDA
COPY EDITORS
PATRICIA ROMUALDEZ CATHY YAMSUAN “MAXIMUM VOLUME: BEST NEW PHILIPPINE FICTION 2.” IT HAS TWO OF MY FAVORITE SHORT STORIES OF ALL TIME: “FLY-OVER COUNTRY” BY IAN ROSALES CASOCOT AND “THE WOMAN OF STA. BARBARA” BY VINCEN GREGORY YU. CUSTOM PUBLISHING MANAGER ISA LORENZO ASSISTANT MANAGER - DESIGN DANICA CONDEZ SALES SUPERVISOR SARAH CABALATUNGAN ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES ANNE MEDINA, BETTINA FERNANDEZ, KIM TAÑAFRANCA SALES COORDINATOR TRISHIA GONZALES JUNIOR CONTENT CREATORS KLEO CATIENZA, MJ ESTABILLO, ETERNITY INES, LYLE PENDON, ELIEL SAYO, SHELLY TAN DESIGNERS DANA CALVO, KRISTINE PAZ, SAYYEDA SHAH JUNIOR DESIGNERS MARIANEL DIMAANO, JENNY ANNE MASANGKAY, JOEY SIMBULAN, ZAILA URMENETA PRODUCTION MANAGER JAN CARIQUITAN PRODUCTION SPECIALIST MARICEL GAVINO FINAL ART SUPERVISOR DENNIS CRUZ DIGITAL CONTENT SPECIALIST MARIA DOMENICA BAQUILOD MARKETING ASSISTANT CAE BELCIÑA, DEMI BEDOYA, PANJ SUPAPO DESIGNER BIANCA PILAR JUNIOR DESIGNER ICE REYES
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FEAR-MONGERING IN THE AGE OF SOCIAL MEDIA The rise of disinformation is threatening the very fabric of our country
ART LEVENSPEIL SANGALANG
The Philippines has been described as “patient zero” in the worldwide rise of digital disinformation, and this became the focus of a recent study published by the journal New Mandala. Ahead of Donald Trump and Boris Johnson’s controversial wins, we had already elected President Rodrigo Duterte after a campaign rife with false information deliberately spread as news. Unfortunately, the situation has worsened, with Duterte’s win emboldening more people to spread disinformation. Online trolls have proliferated greatly—once the realm of paid individuals with unscrupulous principles, disinformation and fear-mongering on social media are now executed by entire marketing firms employed to influence the political landscape. In light of this, the coming 2022 elections will not only decide who the president is, they will also show if our democracy can withstand this new form of dirty politicking. Read more about the rise of the disinformation machine on our website.
NOLISOLI.PH @nolisoli.ph
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nolisoli.ph
nolisoli.ph
@nolisoliph
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NEIGHBORHOOD
A co-making space built by women and a soufflÊ pancake place are among the North’s newest residents. page 7 Celebrate local by planting a native tree or trying out a Filipino cookbook. page 10 Learn the differences among your local noodles. page 12
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NEIGHBORHOOD
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NEW LEASE Creative spaces and unusual food joints to visit in the north
Funky Quarters Brgy. Urbiztondo, San Juan, La Union funkyquarters.com Instagram.com/funkyquarters
Am.pm Hong Kong Ayala Malls Manila Bay Diosdado Macapagal Blvd., Parañaque Instagram.com/am.pm.ph Hong Kong’s am.pm are bringing their original soufflé pancakes to Manila. Their fluffy soufflé pancake is topped with a layer of custard cream and torched for a caramelized effect. They’re also incorporating local flavors into their menu.
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PHOTOGRAPHY AM.PM HONG KONG, FUNKY QUARTERS
Its funky and vintage setting gives this hotel and bar in La Union a ’70s vibe from the common area to the private bedrooms. Shared access rooms include the lounge, Hyde’s Kitchen and Bar, and the glass room, where guests can freely work, read, or write. Heads up to fur parents: You can go on a vacay with your pet here, and you can rent out dog beds for your fur babies.
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Founded by an all-women team of artists and makers, this co-making space is built for creatives with any kind of artistic project. With a goal to make as many materials accessible as possible, creatives can borrow available craft tools, sewing materials, and design books, among others.
Tea Mama Mega Food Hall, 5F SM Megamall Bldg. A, Bank Dr., Ortigas Center, Mandaluyong Instagram.com/teamamaph Tea Mama offers unique tea blends mixing the likes of matcha with local ingredients or putting vegan and non-dairy ingredients in milk tea. Customers can also customize their drinks by choosing their own tea mixes—and if they bring their own containers, they get a P5 discount.
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PHOTOGRAPHY MAKE SPACE TODAY, SAMANTHA ONG (TEA MAMA)
Make Space Today 40 Malingap St., Teachers Village, Quezon City makespacetoday.com Instagram.com/makespacetoday
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SPECIAL FEATURE
RELAX AND CHILL Stay rejuvenated with a quick, easy staycation TEXT SHELLY TAN
Holidays can be a hassle—preparing an enjoyable yet efficient itinerary as well as booking flights and accommodation can be stressful. Staycations answer young families’ problem of not having enough time for a trip, allowing them to de-stress without going too far from home and exerting so much effort. These short breaks keep you from using up your vacation leaves and give you a refreshed outlook on life. Staycations also support the local hospitality industry. Millennials and young families have become major clients of their local hotels that hoteliers are taking into consideration their preferences for an optimized staycation experience.
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To fill your weekends with fulfilling vacation experiences, Resorts World Manila’s Grand Staycation package assures a memorable six-part staycation series for P28,000 nett. Partygoers are sure to enjoy pool parties at the Vega Pool Club once checked into Hilton Manila and Sheraton Manila Hotel. Instagram-worthy staycations are also guaranteed with views of the Villamor Golf Course from Marriott Manila Hotel and the Metro Manila skyline from Belmont Hotel Manila. Savoy Manila’s hostel set-up allows extroverted guests to meet new people within the services, comfort, and privacy of a hotel.
Smart travellers who wish to stay close to the airport pre-flight will appreciate HIEx Manila’s comforts and amenities, such as their signature firm pillows and a 24-hour coin-operated laundry.
Visit www.rwmanila.com or download the RWM Mobile App for updates, exclusive app-only vouchers, and complete information on RWM’s 10th anniversary offers. You can also contact Jillian Valenzuela (0917.878.8576 or jillian.valenzuela@rwmanila.com) or Jake Rodica (0917.872.8766 or jake.rodica@rwmanila.com) of the RWM Sales Team.
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LOCAL MISCELLANY
What’s in this season? Planting native trees, reading up on Filipino food, and wearing local designs
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01 Káin Ná!: An Illustrated Guide to Philippine Food by Felice Prudente Sta. Maria and Bryan Koh Instagram.com/rpdpublications thekitchenbookstore.com/books/kain-na/ Bryan Koh, the Singaporean food writer behind the Filipino cookbook “Milk Pigs and Violet Gold,” is releasing another book on Philippine cuisine. For “Káin Ná!: An Illustrated Guide to Philippine Food,” Koh has teamed up with food historian Felice Prudente Sta. Maria for a more indepth look at our local cuisine. “Kain Na!”claims to be the country’s first illustrated guide to Filipino food and eating habits.
03 Philippine Native Trees Instagram.com/philnativetrees Heads up to all aspiring plant parents: Online store Philippine Native Trees offers endemic seedlings in an effort to promote local flora, with plants such as katmon, kamuning, and toog. They also regularly publish self-titled books featuring different indigenous trees alongside interesting facts about them.
02 Di-sastre by Celine Mallari Kahilom at Hub: Make Lab, First United Building, 413 Escolta St., Binondo, Manila Instagram.com/di.sastre A pun on “disaster” and “sastre,” Celine Mallari’s sustainable clothing line Di-sastre makes use of natural fibers and dyes that create little to no production waste. The De La Salle-College of Saint Benilde fashion design and merchandising program graduating student draws inspiration from romantic industrialism for her designs.
04 Mara Piñon shoes Creative Hub: 56 Dragon St., Brgy. San Roque, Marikina Instagram.com/marapinonph Stepping into the city’s storied shoemaking heritage, Marikina-based designer Mara Piñon has released a line of shoes with quirky and unique designs billed as “wearable art.” Her first collection “Tropical Baby” that uses materials such as maya-maya fish leather was launched at the Footwear Designer’s Fair 2019 in Chennai, India.
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NOODLE ME THIS A guide to local noodles, from canton to sotanghon TEXT CHRISTIAN SAN JOSE PHOTOGRAPHY SAMANTHA ONG
There is a prevailing narrative on the origin of our localized version of Chinese noodles, one that follows a foreign merchant who, after running out of baon, decided to make something out of whatever ingredients were available in the Philippines—one of which was rice. The flour derived from it made a less “bodied” but nonetheless filling version of the dish from the homeland he craved so much. It is said that the usisero, or onlookers, watched him prepare the noodles and eventually adapted the recipe to what is now known as pancit. It is a convincing story, but it paints us as passive receivers of culture. But Doreen Fernandez argues otherwise in her essay “Culture Ingested: On the Indigenization of Philippine Food.” “The process seems to start with a foreign dish in its original form, brought in by foreigners,” Fernandez begins. “It is then taught to a native cook, who naturally adapts it to the tastes he knows and the ingredients he can get, thus both borrowing and adapting. Eventually, he improvises on it, thus creating a new dish that in time becomes so entrenched in the native cuisine and lifestyle that its origins are practically forgotten.” Pancit, a product of this process, has since become intrinsically connected to our sense of national identity. As with any aspect of being a Filipino, this, too, comes in many shapes, sizes, and colors representative of the varying (culinary) experiences throughout the archipelago.
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03 01 Sotanghon Thin, glass-like mung bean noodles cooked in soups or stuffed inside spring rolls
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02 Misua Soft and fine-salted wheat flour noodles most notably used for their namesake soup with patola or almondigas (meatballs) 03 Lomi Thick and flat egg noodles often paired with the BatangueĂąo soup of the same name 04 Canton Thick lo mein noodles made with flour and egg (thus its yellow color) used for stir-fry or mixed with bihon for pancit 05 Bihon Thin, transparent strands made from rice, corn, or cassava flour and commonly utilized for pancit 06 Miki Thick egg noodles (though narrower than lomi) which originated from the north and are used in soups like mami or stir-fried for pancit miki guisado
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SPECIAL FEATURE
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NORTH COSMOPOLITAN Why this commercial area in the north is the new entertainment capital of the metro TEXT LYLE PENDON
If you live in the northern part of Manila where entertainment establishments converge, it’s no surprise that Triangle Park, the rising central business district of Quezon City, has become a place where living like a celebrity is possible. With a variety of bars and modern restaurants around the area, you can feast on plates of raclette and the award-winning Saga beef at Melo’s at Sgt. Esguerra street, modern Japanese and Latin fusion specials at Nanka across Mother Ignacia street, and exquisite wines at La Vie Parisienne at Tomas Morato avenue. Live a balanced lifestyle by staying fit and healthy with various fitness centers you can choose from, like Plana Forma, Beyond Yoga, CrossFit Insurrecto, Anytime Fitness, and Gold’s Gym—which offer programs such as yoga, aerobics, CrossFit, martial arts, and weight training. For a holistic treatment after indulging in scrumptious dining and muscle-building activities, you can get your much-needed R&R
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in nearby salons and spas such as Celebrity Spiral Spa, Nuovo Spa, Mir Wellness Spa, Zen Aura Spa, Nail Axis, and The Beauty Empire. Surrounded by fine dining places and drinking bars, fitness centers, and beauty and wellness spots, South Triangle is truly a gem that can satisfy all your needs.
(Top) Juicy Saga beef steaks and (below) an assortment of local and foreign wines bring luxury to those seeking sophisticated dining and entertainment
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SPECIAL FEATURE
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ALL THE FINER THINGS This gorgeous condo is the elegant home you've always dreamed of TEXT LYLE PENDON
Imagine a home where life’s pleasures are but a few steps away— fantastic food choices, a night out with friends, or a place where you can relax your worries away. The soon-to-rise SMDC Glam Residences located right off Triangle Park along EDSA, just a few steps from GMA Kamuning Station, is the home for living like its namesake with its Hollywoodinspired interior design. Young and successful professionals who usually travel around the metro via MRT, love the finer things in life, and want to live close to recreational hubs will find this cosmopolitan condo suitable for their lifestyle. No need to travel far to enjoy luxuries. Glam Residences has a built-in lifestyle center that houses day spas and salons for pampering
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sessions, and modern cafes and restaurants for quick bites or sitdown dinner with your friends. After a long day of work, residents can enjoy little luxuries and may choose to chill at the rooftop deck for a breathtaking city view, lounge at the spacious lobby, take a dip in the lap pool and jacuzzi, or break a sweat in the fully-equipped gym. You don’t need to move farther away to experience the glam life filled with excitement and leisure; SMDC Glam Residences is an ideal place to live like a celebrity with grand enterprises and rich offerings right at your doorstep. For more information about SMDC Glam Residences visit their website at https://smdc. com/properties/glam-residences/, or like the official SMDC Facebook Page https://www. facebook.com/TheOfficialSMDC/ The lobby and the outdoor recreation areas of the SMDC Glam residences exudes comfortable affluence, perfect for young professionals who are living life to the fullest.
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EATS
This restaurant in San Juan will change your notions of what Chinese restaurants should look like. page 19 Manu Mano is introducing artisan bread to the general public, one pandesal at a time. page 22 Check out these heritage bakeries for your next mooncake fix. page 26
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OVER THE MOON
From its midcentury modern design to its unconventional approach to traditional cuisine, Moon Rabbit Restaurant and Café in San Juan is the antithesis of a Chinese restaurant TEXT CHRISTIAN SAN JOSE PHOTOGRAPHY PATRICK MATEO
Hong ma foccacia, three kinds of eggs, and chilled tofu
This year marks the 50th anniversary of the first moon landing by Americans Neil Armstrong and his Apollo 11 team—a power move by the US to prove their (space) supremacy over the Soviet Union. Prior to this, the Soviet Union sent out a dog named Laika to orbit the Earth in a spacecraft called Sputnik 2. But neither of these superpowers was actually the first to send out a living creature to the lunar surface. It was actually China—but not in a literal sense. A book from the Warring States era tells the story of a rabbit on the moon that constantly pounds herbs in a mortar to produce the elixir of immortality for the moon goddess Chang’e.* The folklore has been passed down to succeeding dynasties and has taken various versions in other cultures. *The first human on the moon, at least according to Chinese legend. She is also the prominent subject of the Mid-Autumn Festival.
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EATS Inside this pristine frozen panna cotta shaped like a rabbit is a crimson strawberry purée.
In Japanese and Korean texts, for example, the rabbit is believed to be pounding the ingredients for rice cake, which leads some to think that this glutinous food is actually the elixir of life. In San Juan, the legendary rabbit on the moon inspired the restaurant Moon Rabbit. Much like the contested contents of the lunar rabbit’s mortar, Moon Rabbit is a melting pot of influences. No other cuisine wields as much influence on the menu as Chinese cuisine but Patrick Sen, Moon Rabbit’s operations manager, will be the first to tell you that it’s more than that. Or not just that, at least. This is either a bid to differentiate Moon Rabbit from the throngs of restaurants in the vicinity or a way to temper the expectations of Chinese customers who anticipate familiar flavors. This 1,500-sq.m. preschoolturned-restaurant lures people with its midcentury modern interiors that
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adapts well to the original structure. Wooden floors and exposed pillars, plenty of huge glass windows to let enough sunlight in, and taupe walls make it feel as if you are, in fact, at home and not in a restaurant. The residential location plays to the illusion of a domestic setup. Bound by low walls, the structure itself is merely half of the entire property, the rest is a gravel-laid parking lot. There’s also the rare occurrence of a wheelchair ramp, which stretches on the right side leading up to an area that will soon be a café. Coming from inside the restaurant, you can walk straight to the café. This part is the only actual
addition to the original structure. Floor-to-ceiling glass windows bathe the space with ample light, while the wooden floors made from piecing together actual scrap wood from the renovation imparts character. All of these elements make Moon Rabbit a stark contrast to the stereotypical Chinese establishment. But these aren’t the only aspects through which Moon Rabbit deviates from tradition. The way its management is structured veers away from the usual family-run businesses where elders take the lead. Sen and his third-generation cousins have full control of the operations while their parents, aunts, uncles, and grandparents occupy more passive
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EATS yet influential roles, like suggesting which family recipes should go on the menu. There are none of those unfamiliar dish names and characters that alienate non-Chinese diners either. Instead, there are basic recipe descriptions they pass off as names that are more approachable both lexicon- and price-wise. Most dishes are priced between P100-P500. Just like the restaurant’s interiors, the menu is strikingly modern while still keeping an eye on tradition. For appetizers, the Hong Ma Foccacia is a spin on mantou pork buns using Italian bread, while Three Kinds of Eggs combines steamed, salted, and century eggs, which are all fixtures in the cuisine. The chilled tofu in all its simplicity is telling of
21 Moon Rabbit’s direction: fuss-free and uncomplicated. Reminiscent of Hainan chicken is the White Chicken, chicken poached in aromatics and served with ginger paste. It’s easily one of their bestsellers owing to its tender and flavorful meat and gelatinous skin. At the end of the meal, Sen asks if we are ready for dessert, almost low-key hyping their new creation. In comes the sweet ending, plated no less on their signature white and blue ceramic. Fittingly, it’s a rabbit—inanimate but pure as snow and almost like a delicate porcelain creation. “You have five minutes to take all the pictures you want of it,” Sen says. It’s the perfect Instagram food— it doesn’t melt quickly, it’s easy to
Moon Rabbit Restaurant and Café 2 Ledesma cor. F. Benitez Sts. San Juan Instagram.com/moonrabbit.mnl Tel. 529-4706
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White chicken
photograph, and it won’t leave a dent on your wallet. It’s a baffling new genre of food that most dining establishments are racing to create to cater to a new market of social media-minded customers. That is, until we slice the dessert open to reveal the crimson-colored strawberry purée inside the frozen panna cotta skin. The act of slicing through it is almost like dissecting a live rabbit, which makes one of my colleagues, who has pet rabbits, a tad uncomfortable. Still, we fork through it until only the snout is left. Disclaimer: No rabbits were harmed in the making of this dessert or this story. Only a rabbit owner that was slightly distressed.
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HAND IN KNEAD In Banawe, a stall called Manu Mano bakes artisanal pan de sal TEXT CHRISTIAN SAN JOSE PHOTOGRAPHY SAMANTHA ONG
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EATS In light of the recent small lottery crackdown (and subsequent reopening) by the government, I would like to share a joke that I told the owners of this discreet new bakery in Banawe Ave. Said bakery occupies a barely fivesq.m. space in a commercial building. “If you didn’t make this into a bakery, I bet (get it?) that this would have been a Lotto outlet,” I told Alexa Versoza and Madeleine Dela Torre, two of the people behind Manu Mano, Quezon City’s first artisanal bread bakery. Versoza and Dela Torre both agreed, laughing. Lotto outlets,
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after all, are notorious for taking up whatever little space there is, and as everyday Filipinos, we are all in on that joke. And if not for Dela Torre and her partners, the space could have been a legal gambling operation. But they were decisive. They were going to introduce artisanal bread to the Quezon City crowd. But there was one catch. In the same building where this new bakery stands, there’s the storied Banawe Bakery that has been around for more than 20 years. But before you jump to any conclusions, no, they are not To avoid food wastage, Manu Mano uses crumbs from previous batches to coat their hybrid pandesal.
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competitors. Dela Torre’s family, in fact, owns Banawe Bakery. “These are two very different concepts.” One is something with a broader mass appeal, “the other is about making quality and otherwise inaccessible kind of bread available to the greater public,” Dela Torre said. On the side of the building facing Banawe, a sign reads “Pandesal P3.” While on the Sct. Alcaraz side, a sign depicting two hands put together as if praying is accompanied by the name Manu Mano. “It means handmade,” Versoza says matter-of-factly. She’s a pastry chef by training who currently works with chef Miko Calo at her newly opened French restaurant Metronome. But prior to that, she staged with Richie Manapat of Panaderya Toyo at The
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When frozen, Manu Mano’s pandesal can last up to two months. It’s just a matter of reheating—and they’ve attached instructions on how you can do just that.
Alley at Karrivin. Manapat also happens to be one of the partners at Manu Mano. “When you’re making bread, it’s all about the feel. Kahit na alam mo ’yung technicalities, accuracies, temperature, lahat ’yon bale wala kung hindi mo ifi-feel ’yung dough and know when it’s ready.” Manapat’s Panaderya Toyo since opening in 2017 has had a cult following of mostly bread aficionados. It is no coincidence that Manu Mano’s flagship product is also pandesal, which despite being heavily
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influenced by Manapat’s ways remains distinct from Panaderya’s knotted variant. It looks nothing like the pandesal we’ve grown accustomed to (or at least what I’ve grown accustomed to). There’s none of that half-baked pale exterior. It almost looks burnt. But it isn’t. Versoza assured us it’s still edible and I tell you it is. The crisp outside is just a façade for its soft, billowy inside that pulls like a croissant. I am no bread expert, mind you, but any discerning Filipino who was raised
in a household with hot pandesal in brown paper bags every morning knows that it is a better version. It’s not overwhelmingly sweet (believe me, I’ve had tons of saccharine pandesal), nor too dense. Out of respect, I didn’t flatten it to see if it was malleable, but it could have been, given its structure is made with sourdough aged over a week. The secret? Fresh yeast and masa madre. In fact, all of Manu Mano’s breads (three as of the moment) are made using the same sourdough mix. Next to the hybrid pandesal, there’s the baguette, a 14-inch hard bread that the bakery sells for P90, and there’s also a sourdough loaf called Banawe Base. From the looks of it, the small space that is Manu Mano can be deceiving. And luckily, it’s all part of the plan. There’s only a counter where customers can order, no dining tables or chairs. It is designed to exude an air of approachability to make it less intimidating. After all, Manu Mano is out there to introduce artisan bread to a broader public, to sell hot pandesal like million-peso jackpot Lotto tickets.
Manu Mano Bakery Banawe cor. Scout Alcaraz Sts., Sta. Mesa Heights, Quezon City Instagram.com/made.manumano
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A HERITAGE OF MOONS Get mooncakes from these Chinese heritage bakeries TEXT ZOFIYA ACOSTA ILLUSTRATION KRISTINE PAZ
Mooncakes are intrinsically steeped in Chinese tradition. For starters, they often come with inscriptions bearing the name of Chang’e, the moon deity, and Yu Yu, her moon rabbit. The sharing of these dense pastries typically filled with lotus seed paste was also done to mark the beginning and end of the millennia-old MidAutumn Festival. The pastry has since outspread its original use, becoming a delicacy in its own right. Modern brands
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have put their own spin on it—and this includes luxury brands. (Louis Vuitton, Hermés, and Dior gift their Chinese clientele with mooncakes.) In Manila, where the world’s oldest Chinatown stands, Filipino-Chinese bakers have been crafting their own mooncakes for decades—some even centuries. As fun as it may be to try new takes on it, it’s also nice to engage in the pastry’s historical nature by eating one crafted by these experienced hands.
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Eng Bee Tin 628 Ongpin St., Binondo, Manila
Polland Hopia 670 Mayon St., La Loma, Quezon City
Founded in 1913 from a small stall in Ongpin (where it still stands), the 107-year-old deli chain is the oldest in the list. While this place is most known for creating ube hopia, it also serves traditional mooncakes as well as the kookier ones filled with pandan, ube, chocolate, or langka.
Started in 1966 in Binondo (Manila’s Chinatown figures heavily on this list), Polland Hopia’s main branch is now in Quezon City. Aside from their flavored hopia, the brand is also known for mooncakes made with yellow and black monggo, lotus seed and mixed nuts fillings encased in a vivid red tin box.
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Salazar Bakery 783 Ongpin St., Binondo, Manila
Wan Kee Bakery 828 Benavidez St., Binondo, Manila
Salazar Bakery is another cult classic in Binondo. The bakery was founded in 1947 on Salazar St., hence the name, but has since moved to its current location on Ongpin St. The bakery offers more traditional kinds of mooncakes, like the black monggo bean mooncake with salted egg.
Wan See Bakery is an old school Chinese bakery nestled on Benavidez St. since 1972, known for their fresh siopao and bola-bola meat buns. Their mooncake range is more traditional, with monggo beans or lotus seeds.
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LIVING THINGS
Architect Sarah Canlas’ weekend getaway is her family’s rest house—smack dab inside a bird sanctuary in Antipolo. page 30
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LIVING THINGS
NORTH STAR Architect Sarah Canlas takes us into her family’s sanctuary in Antipolo
TEXT CATHERINE ORDA PHOTOGRAPHY JAR CONCENGCO
When Sarah Canlas and her siblings were kids, their parents would take them to visit a property in Antipolo they claimed would one day become their family’s rest house. Since then, the idea of having their own vacation home stayed with Canlas even after she became an architect. “It became a North Star to have a house in Antipolo,” she says. But what ended up becoming the unsubtly named Casa Canlas—a compact five-room house lodged into a landscape of rocks and plants, across from which sits a river— wasn’t that specific property but an unfinished house in Antipolo that belonged to the architect Benjee Mendoza, Canlas’s business partner. Initially, the plan was to build the rest house for his mother, but due to a change of plans, something to do with a “shifting family dynamic,” early last year Mendoza decided to halt construction and have Canlas take over.
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LIVING THINGS
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LIVING THINGS
Casa Canlas is accentuated with items that “evoke joy or certain memories” for Canlas and her family.
Sarah Canlas considers the house an accidental collaboration between her and her business partner from Greener and Partners architect Benjee Mendoza.
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“Without meaning to, our dream house became a reality because someone else had started it for us,” says Canlas. “From that serendipitous starting point, I continued the design development and construction of the project. It’s a work in progress up to now and I have a feeling it will never truly be finished.” Feelings—more precisely, instinct— figured largely into Canlas’s approach in designing their family home, with most of her design choices being instinctive rather than intellectual. If a piece of art or a certain design choice didn’t fit well within the “in-betweens” of a space—that is, if it didn’t lend
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“wit” to the space, if it was there solely to impress rather than to evoke joy or certain memories—then the house wasn’t having it. “Who really lives that way?” Canlas says about the houses usually featured in magazines. The pieces that give Casa Canlas its “lived, dynamic” character include the following: a rug that was originally used in their parents’ house, a Flos lamp, and an art piece by Allan Balisi that she fell in love with. Canlas specifically pointed out a Vipp trash can that was shown at The Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) a few years ago, saying that the world’s first-ever pedal-
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33 operated trash can was also an iconic piece of design. “Functionality is always a big consideration for us [Canlas family] because we’re all very active people. In this home I knew I didn’t want to overdecorate, so I mixed pieces and elements that were meaningful to us in some way. In the end I think we achieved what we wanted: a place where we can be ourselves to relax and reconnect with nature.” Every room in Casa Canlas has, in some way, a connection to the environment in which it inhabits. Canlas often stays at the balcony on the second floor to listen to the river running and birds and crickets chirping (the area happens to be a government-protected bird sanctuary). The house is conducive to this kind of silent and solitary recreation, given that it’s a generally low-maintenance property—it relies on solar energy, rainwater harvesting, and lots of natural light. Passive cooling also became one of the house’s key design features after Canlas decided to keep Mendoza’s original plans of open ventilation. Currently, there are plans of growing an edible garden, which will let the family cultivate their own food. As for the house layout, Canlas didn’t deviate from the original minimalist approach. “In this house I wanted to do away with too many rules to follow and so we deliberately
left the finishes raw and honest. The landscaping design is also meant to look effortless even if we literally moved mountains to achieve what we have.” But perhaps the easiest and most accurate way to talk about what went into designing this house is to simply refer to the name. Casa Canlas, born out of an inside joke between family and friends, was built with Canlas’s siblings and parents in mind. Given that they’re a family of creatives, it was important not only to have good design in terms of both aesthetics and functionality, but also to ensure that the space reflected who they were—or, in simpler terms, what they liked.
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According to Canlas, the best feature of the home is the sound of birds chirping and the river burbling, which you hear best on the balcony.
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LIVING THINGS For instance, Canlas has turned the middle room into a music room, as she thought it only “made sense” for her family to have one. In that room, one would notice an eclectic record collection, as well as a long bookshelf divided into three sections, each of which reflects the interests of Canlas and her two sisters. (Dani is the co-founder of Type A Coffee; Anna is a writer). While Canlas, as the family’s sole architect, took charge in designing the house,“I’d say they’re involved because I know [the family] very well. I know them so well that they trust me.” Since early last year, when Canlas started building and designing their “North Star,” the house has seen new developments as well as new visitors: Last July 20, a one-day vintage sale called Okyo was held at Casa Canlas. The idea came to the 33-year-old architect after she went on a trip to Uzbekistan with some friends: “I find so many interesting things in my travels that I wish were available locally. I realized that oftentimes the value was really in our ‘eye’ for these finds rather than where or what we shopped for. This is how the name ‘Okyo’ came up—it’s based on the Italian word occhio, which means eye.” Soon, Canlas will hold more Okyo events featuring more antique furniture, art, and clothing. These future iterations of the sale, besides reflecting Canlas’s dedication to sharing vintage pieces (“I like the idea of a circular economy”), parallels almost too closely her future plans for Casa Canlas: “We plan to lease this house once it’s done. Who wouldn’t want to share that experience?”
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Get bespoke, handcrafted shoes from these Marikina shops. page 36 Filipino literature is not dead—just ask these local bookstores. page 39 Take a step into the North’s vibrant handicraft scene. page 44 No time to buy Filipiniana? Rent one. page 46
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WALK A MILE IN YOUR CUSTOM-MADE SHOES With all the different shoe options out there, here’s how to find “the one” TEXT PIERRA CALASANZ-LABRADOR
Are you in between standard shoe sizes? Have a specific style in mind? Or simply can’t be bothered to search far and wide? Consider having your shoes custommade. There is a special kind of joy in owning footwear made especially for you, whether in your size (made-to-order/made-to-measure), or in your preferred design (bespoke). And in this conscious lifestyle era, having a quality pair handcrafted to your exact specifications by local artisans is not only worth the investment, it also helps bring the Philippine shoe industry back to its former glory. Here are some MTO-friendly brands worth checking out.
Solimann Shoes Cubao Expo, General Romulo Ave., Cubao, Quezon City This old-school brand was one of the very first shops to occupy Cubao Expo in the ’60s—back when it was still the shoe shopping destination known as Marikina Shoe Expo—and is proudly one of the last few original shoe shops left standing to this day. The shop’s yellowing photographs show child stars with their made-to-order boots and basketball imports with their irregular-sized shoes, and while business isn’t as brisk these days, Solimann continues to cater to Western boots enthusiasts and retro shoe lovers, as well as those in the market for funky bespoke platforms and cosplay footwear. Made-to-order and bespoke prices start at P4,500.
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Black Wing Shoes blackwingshoes.com Highly-recommended by discerning shoeaholics, Black Wing Shoes offers elegant oxfords, wingtip boots, and other handcrafted pairs that harken back to the heydey of Marikina as the shoemaking capital of the Philippines. Owner Buddy Tan himself attends to detailed measurements (what he calls your “foot topography”) to ensure a dream fit. The shop’s prices start at P5,500 for made-to-order pairs, and about P8,500 for bespoke services.
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37 Waltz Manila Instagram.com/waltzmanila This under-the-radar brand specializes in bespoke bridal shoes for your big day. “My aim is to create really pretty shoes brides can dance the night away in—not just something pretty for the ’gram,” shares Waltz Manila creator Isa Abonal. You can design a pair any style you want, from minimalist silhouettes in special satin and French lace, to shoes decked out in beads, fabric flowers, or handcrafted bows. Lead time is about seven to eight weeks, and prices range from P5,000 to P10,000.
Owned by third-generation shoemaker Tim de Dios, Ramir is a fresh offshoot of the family’s 70-yearold Ramir Shoe Manufacturing business in Marikina. Their genderneutral leather shoes and fanny packs have recently been gaining attention at upscale local bazaars.
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PHOTOGRAPHY WALTZ MANILA, RAMIR
Ramir Instagram.com/ramir.ph ramir.ph
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PHOTOGRAPHY STRIDE COLLECTIVE
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Stride Collective 4 JP Laurel cor. Chestnut Sts., Marikina East San Roque, Marikina www.stridecollectiveph.com Stride Collective is a community of “shoepreneurs” whose products are all ethically handmade in Marikina. This footwear studio brings together several different brands that offer made-to-order services on all their designs. There’s something for everyone, from leather flats and office-appropriate pumps, to hand-painted brogues and sneakers featuring local weaves.
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For edgier styles, there’s Risqué Designs run by Tal de Guzman, Stride Collective’s CEO and co-founder. Their Instagram profile, where you can contact them for custom orders, features uniquely Filipino styles. Tarsiers carved on wooden heels, anyone?
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THE QUEST FOR FILIPINO LIT Support Filipino literature by visiting some of the bookstores that know the scene by heart TEXT ANGELA PATRICIA SUACILLO
If the massive crowds that visit book fairs are any indication, reading is truly alive and well in the country. Surveys conducted by the National Book Development Board show that a good number of Filipinos still take the time to pick up and enjoy a good book every now and then, and that the demand for local books remains strong. A good number of readers are actively on the
lookout for locally-published work, while online threads dedicated to this quest only serve to prove it. To aid in the search for local literature, here’s a list of online and physical stores that carry Filipino-authored books from different genres. Whether you’re looking for a new read or a long-lost text, you’re bound to find something in these bookstores.
Born out of the growing interests of The Kitchen Bookstore’s clients, Anáhaw Books is an independent bookstore committed to sourcing the best works from Filipino authors. Launched in 2018, the shop houses books about architecture, textiles, and weaving, as well as titles that tackle our country’s historical and political landscape— all of which they deliver to readers all over the country and beyond.
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PHOTOGRAPHY JAVI LOBREGAT
Anáhaw Books Instagram.com/anahawbooks anahawbooks.com
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PHOTOGRAPHY THE HERITAGE COLLECTIVE
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The Heritage Collective The Hub: Make Lab, First United Building, 413 Escolta St., Binondo, Manila Facebook.com/TheHeritageCollective Located in one of the oldest streets in Manila, The Heritage Collective is more than just a souvenir shop for artwork and historical sites around Manila—it also houses a selection of written work on the preservation of history and heritage. From biographies about prominent Filipino heroes to books about Filipino architecture and heritage sites, this bookstore is perfect for history buffs and students alike.
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PHOTOGRAPHY ARTBOOKS.PH
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Artbooks.ph Pioneer Studios, 123 Pioneer St., Mandaluyong Artbooks.ph Run by a company of artists dedicated to documenting the Philippine art scene, Artbooks.ph prides itself on being the only bookstore that focuses on the country’s art and culture. The bookstore is home to written works on architecture, film and photography, and theater. It also offers printed matter sourced from artists and independent publishers; and out-ofprint resources such as monographs and exhibition catalogs.
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If you find yourself in Baguio, settle down with a nice book at Mt. Cloud Bookshop. The shop has a wide array of Philippine literature, from graphic novels to indigenous peoples’ stories to poetry and novels—all of which are available for browsing. They also make their selection of books by Filipino authors available to readers all over the country through a threemonth book subscription.
Solidaridad Book Shop 531 Padre Faura St., Ermita, Manila Facebook.com/solidaridadbookshop Nestled within the busy Ermita district is Solidaridad Book Shop, owned by National Artist F. Sionil Jose. The treasure trove for bookworms is brimming with rare titles on Philippine history and mythology; works penned by Nick Joaquin, Gilda Cordero-Fernando, Lualhati Bautista, Bienvenido Santos; and the complete works of F. Sionil Jose.
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PHOTOGRAPHY MT. CLOUD BOOKSHOP, SOLIDARIDAD BOOK SHOP
Mt. Cloud Bookshop 1 Yangco Rd. cor. Brent Rd., Baguio City Instagram.com/mtcloud
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A MAP OF CRAFTS
Get to know the north through its vibrant handicraft scene TEXT ANGELA PATRICIA SUACILLO ILLUSTRATION KRISTINE PAZ
The development of Filipino creativity has greatly contributed to the Philippine economy, notes National Economic and Development Authority Undersecretary Jose Miguel de la Rosa. And it’s true: Cultures and communities have been brought together by handcrafted creations while providing a livelihood for families across the country.
Locals are also seeing a growing demand for artisans’ handmade products. Trade fairs like ArteFino and MaArte have been consistently well-attended, proving that consumers are actively seeking out these homegrown designs. We put together a list of homegrown handicrafts straight from the Philippines’ northern cities.
MARIKINA
This city isn’t the “Shoe Capital of the Philippines” for nothing. Marikina has always been home to the country’s finest shoemakers, who have perfected the art of footwear that will endure everyday use and then some. Marikina shoes are made of leather transformed into stylish yet affordable pieces. Now, Marikina is breathing new life into its heritage through a new wave of shoemakers. Zapateria, for one, is a workshop that hopes to innovate Marikina’s shoemaking heritage through creative collaboration. The co-creation space is home to shoe designer Joco Commendador, whose designs are influenced by pop culture; and Josanna, a homegrown brand from the ’70s now reviving its archive of designs.
Leather shoes
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VALENZUELA Upcycled accessories
For the people of Valenzuela City, recycling becomes a source of income as various groups take discarded food and drink foil packets to transform them into something useful. Livelihood programs around the city have enabled entrepreneurs to fashion bags, purses, cellphone cases, and other items out of discarded plastic, which are then sold everywhere in the city. Old paper is also given new life as rosaries and jewelry, thanks to the St. Rosario Multi-Purpose Cooperative. The organization provides business opportunities to disadvantaged individuals while weaving different styles of bags out of old newspapers and magazines.
RIZAL Ceramic pots
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Rizal prides itself on being a hotbed of art and culinary gems, two aspects of its heritage that it successfully combines. This province is home to some of the country’s best artists, and its ceramicists craft unique pottery pieces sought after by people all over the country. Rizal is also home to a number of shops that serve a wide range of delicious meals and delicacies. The marriage of art and culinary heritage is evident in Crescent Moon Café and Studio Pottery, a space born out of the desire to combine two people’s passions. The café was founded by Lanelle Abueva-Fernando, a ceramicist, and the late Bey Fernando who was a lawyer. The dishes were created by Fernando, who used whatever fresh kitchen ingredients were available. AbuevaFernando, meanwhile, creates handmade ceramics used in the café and in restaurants all over the country.
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THE REBIRTH OF FILIPINIANA Find (and wear) your heritage with ease
TEXT BEA NICOLE AMARILLE ART SAYYEDA SHAH
Searching for good Filipiniana can be a challenge. Getting it made requires a lot of lead time, while sourcing from shops and boutiques across the cities may also be time-consuming. This is why homegrown designers have begun to stock their racks with the national dress to make it available for rent.
01 Kandama Collective kandamaweave.com Instagram.com/kandamacollective Kandama, in the Ifugao Tuwali language, means power. Kandama Collective partners with local weaving communities to produce modern Filipino wear, which can be purchased as ready-to-wear clothing or rented for occasions. Their latest collection, which debuted at the 2019 New York Fashion Week, features suits and coats made with terno fabric.
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02 Gowns for Rent Manila by Damsel gownsforrentmanila.com Instagram.com/gfrmanila Gowns for Rent Manila by Damsel is the biggest one-stop rental shop in the metro. Founded nine years ago by lawyer-turned fashion designer Dada Arquillo, Gowns for Rent's modern Filipiniana pieces resemble princess ballgowns, with their butterfly sleeves and A-line silhouettes. For rental options, customers can either avail ready-torent or made-to-rent services.
03 Gownforent gfrroxy.wixsite.com/gfrw Instagram.com/gownforent Owner and fashion designer Roxy Roco’s great grandmother and grandmother were dressmakers in Escolta during the pre-war period. Gownforent offers a wide variety of formal wear that can be rented for different events. Roco designs for every occasion, from bridal dresses to Filipiniana evening wear, which are ornately designed with intricate beading or embellished with sequins.
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WHEREABOUTS
SHOWRUNNER
Check out these gallery shows in your neighborhood
This exhibition explores the outcomes of climate change and the effects of ozone depletion in order to question human behavior and engage its audience in a discourse about environmental issues. Robot Scans Flower Oct. 12 to 26, Tuesday to Saturday, 2 p.m. to 7 p.m. Chico Quizon | District Gallery Arts Above, 112 West Ave., Quezon City Chico Quizon’s latest exhibit explores the concept of utility in art through mixed media drawings and videos of fictional and fantastical subjects.
To Give A Moment A Name Oct. 12 to Nov. 5, Tuesday to Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Lesley-Anne Cao, Katherine Nuñez, Derek Tumala | The Drawing Room GF Building C, Karrivin Plaza, Chino Roces Ave Ext, Makati This group exhibition captures a constellation of moments while opening discourse about worldview, ecologies of thought and trajectories. Familiar Places Oct. 23 to Nov. 23, Tuesday to Saturday, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Marc Aran Reyes | UP Vargas Museum Roxas Ave., University of the Philippines Diliman, Quezon City Using materials in domestic settings, Marc Aran Reyes explores works from Jorge B. Vargas’ post-war confinement in Sugamo Prison and ties it to the contemporary issue of isolation.
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PHOTOS ART CUBE GALLERY, DISTRCIT GALLERY, THE DRAWING ROOM, UP VARGAS MUSEUM
Romancing the Inevitable Oct. 3 to 31, Monday to Saturday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Vincent Padilla | Art Cube Gallery 2F Building B, Karrivin Plaza, Chino Roces Ave., Makati
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