Southern Living: 2019 October-December

Leftovers redux PAGE 28

OPENING DOORS

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Return to form PAGE 33

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Wrap-up Issue 2019

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EDITOR'S NOTE

Season ender It has been another eventful year filled with changes—one that we started in our own pages, too. Early this year, we rebranded our print issues into what you hold in your hands today. It’s been a good year of rediscovering our neighborhoods, and this quarter is no exception. We still have a lot of new spots to visit, from rebranded and reopened favorites like Sensei, Guava Sketches, and chef Josh Boutwood’s The Test Kitchen, to new spaces like the multipurpose art hub Kondwi. We also fill out wishlists with playful jewelry pieces and kitschy stationery.

Before the year ends and we all get lost in the holiday rush, we took trips to the heart of the south to try out a new Thai private dining restaurant nestled inside a wellness farm in Tagaytay called Ayutthaya. We also paid a visit to the colorful home-atelier-bed-and-breakfast of Patis Tesoro, where she gave us a peek into her creative process, along with some inspiration for a way of life we might just try to adopt in the coming year.

Also within this issue, you’ll find some practical guides to get you through the holidays. We asked artists, designers, restaurateurs, and other friends what they like serving on the holiday dinner table, and we found ways to give new life to the leftovers, too.

There’s a lot to digest (physically, with all the parties coming up), but we hope this year’s final issue can get you through the season. Consider it a piece of us here at Nolisoli joining you in all the holiday cheer.

Pauline Miranda Associate managing editor

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What is your favorite Christmas carol?

“ANG PASKO AY SUMAPIT” ONLY BECAUSE IT’S THE ONLY ONE I KNOW OF

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“KUMUKUTIKUTITAP” BY JOEY ALBERT NEVER FAILS TO MAKE ME FEEL THE CHRISTMAS CHEER

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT / GROUP PUBLISHER

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CONTRIBUTORS WRITERS

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JUNIOR DESIGNERS

STAFF PHOTOGRAPHERS AND VIDEOGRAPHERS ARGYL LEONES SAMANTHA ONG JP TALAPIAN BEA TAN JONAS TIMBREZA

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MORALITY IN THE INTERNET AGE Writer Jia Tolentino on the politics of online discourse

ART LEVENSPEIL SANGALANG

What is the best way to navigate modernity, a time in which the internet has become the central organ of existence? Writer Jia Tolentino, a cultural critic for The New Yorker and author of “Trick Mirror: Reflections on Self-Delusion,” admits to not having any answers to this universal dilemma but nevertheless offers much-needed clarity by writing deftly about how these dilemmas came to be and how they function.

During a recent visit to Manila, Tolentino spoke about the monetization of opinion, the futility of individual solutions in response to structural problems, and the impossibility of morality in the face of capitalism.

“People try to remain human in systems that don’t necessarily lead towards humanity. What we do to be human to each other, or when we try to have a good time—a lot of that is entangled with things that hurt other people. I don’t think we should be living this way; it shouldn’t be so hard to live morally.”

We try to unpack all this on our site, in the same vein of skepticism and suspension of all desire for conclusion. We also ask: What is the value of internet writers, or, as Tolentino calls them, “professional opinion-havers,” in the face of chaos and confusion?

Read the full story on our website.

NOLISOLI.PH @nolisoli.ph

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SPECIAL FEATURE

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KAISEKI RYORI AND THE ART OF CULINARY SIMPLICITY Traditional Japanese restaurant Yamazato opens with purity and a chef going back to what’s truly essential TEXT ETERNITY INES PHOTOGRAPHY SAMANTHA ONG

Seasonal kaiseki, a clear soup with shrimp dumpling with white turnip, turnip leaves, carrot, and sliced yuzu

Seasonality, freshness, and simplicity are tenets of Japanese cuisine that Manila diners have come to love.

One restaurant that seeks to uphold these values is Hotel Okura Manila’s Yamazato. Unlike other restaurants specializing in modern fusion, Yamazato returns to the foundations of Japanese cuisine: the kaiseki ryori, a multi-course style of fine dining.

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Yamazato’s executive chef Rinnosuke Mouri has 33 years of culinary experience under his belt, backed by three years of formal apprenticeship and more than 30 years of professional work at some of Tokyo’s best traditional restaurants.

He now brings to Hotel Okura Manila’s Yamazato, the patience, resilience, and passion he has acquired throughout his career. Empowered by his ingrained joy as a chef, Mouri is eager to share the evocative experience to Manila’s avid foodies.

“I do believe that diners in Manila would find our style attractive. We have a common point: rice. Another point is that Japanese cuisine is beautiful to the eyes. Most of the items on the plate are edible, including flowers and sprouts,” the veteran chef says.

Yamazato’s dishes are based on purity, minimalism, and harmony. Mouri says, “[There is] balance between the ingredients and the plate, and harmony throughout the courses. We offer the best experience [that appeals] to the five senses.”

Traditional Japanese cuisine is undeniably a labor of love for Mouri.

“From the moment I purchase

ingredients to the moment it is served in front of the guest, I fully concentrate on each act. It takes hard work and a lot of energy, but the feeling of accomplishment and perfection is beyond description.”

World-class restaurant Yamazato is now open on the second floor of Hotel Okura Manila, situated within the country’s premier entertainment and lifestyle destination, Resorts World Manila. For inquiries or bookings, you may call 5318-2888 or visit www. hotelokuramanila.com

Chef Mouri brings to Hotel Okura Manila’s Yamazato the discipline and freshness of traditional Japanese cuisine.

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NEIGHBORHOOD

The changing cityscape is more than just new places—it’s also about reinvented familiar spaces page 7 The food court has died, returned, and has now evolved page 12 Versatile gifts for people of many interests page 14

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KILOMETER ZERO Sensei 181 Aguirre Ave., BF Homes, Parañaque Instagram.com/senseiph

The Fore 3409 Quingua St., Brgy. Pinagkaisahan, Makati Instagram.com/theforeseries

Already with a cult following, this Japanese restaurant helmed by chef Bruce Ricketts recently underwent a makeover. With sleeker branding and a bigger space, more guests can now enjoy its modern take on Japanese staples like salmon aburi, tuna and crispy scallop dynamite, and Senseiviche, Rickett’s version of the Japanese-Peruvian favorite.

Situated inside a renovated Spanish colonial residence, The Fore’s newly opened showroom is a study in simplicity, evoking the clean and minimalist lines the brand is known for. Large windows illuminate the collections, including the latest: EJ Espiritu’s hand-rolled ceramic homeware.

Guava Sketches Greenbelt 5, Esperanza St., Makati Instagram.com/guavasketches Founded by siblings Joan and Jennifer Cantemprante, this modern design store sells homeware with a distinctly Scandinavian style. Their crafty minimalist aesthetic is evident in carefully chosen products, ranging from collectibles and jewelry to kitchenware and furniture.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF SENSEI, GUAVA SKETCHES, THE FORE

A multipurpose creative space in Poblacion, a quirky new Spanish restaurant, and reanimated concepts to explore

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NEIGHBORHOOD

Saan Saan 4F One Bonifacio High Street, 5th Ave., Taguig Instagram.com/saansaanph

Southbank Cafe + Lounge Central Plaza Westgate Center, Alabang, Muntinlupa Instagram.com/southbankcafelounge Apart from its minimalist interiors brimming with natural light and plants, this Melbourne-inspired café offers a wide selection of food and drinks, from all-day breakfast to coffee and cocktails that you can enjoy from 7 a.m. to 1 a.m.

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Kondwi 6109 Albert St., Brgy. Poblacion, Makati Instagram.com/kondwiph Kondwi is the newest in Poblacion’s slew of multipurpose spaces, functioning as a gallery, black box theater, bar, café, and retail space.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF SOUTHBANK CAFE+LOUNGE, SAAN SAAN, KONDWI PH

Saan Saan­—a line of nostalgic, handmade soy-scented candles and other home fragrances—has expanded from an online shop to a physical store alongside other homegrown brands at The Trading Post.

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NEIGHBORHOOD

Hola Bombòn 2F 5887 Fermina St. cor. Enriquez St., Brgy. Poblacion, Makati Instagram.com/hola.bombonph

Gallery by Chele 5F Clipp Center, 11th Ave. cor. 39th St., Taguig Instagram.com/gallerybychele When it opened in 2013, this restaurant was known as Gallery Vask. It has since evolved into its current iteration, Gallery by Chele, led by a partnership between chefs Chele González and Carlos Villaflor.

The transformed space now includes a bar, lounge, and dining room. Gallery by Chele offers its own take on modern cuisine using local ingredients through its “green project” at the site, where they grow herbs and vegetables.

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PHOTOGRAPHY SAMANTHA ONG (HOLA BOMBÒN), GALLERY BY CHELE

A witty spin-off of a formal Spanish restaurant, Hola Bombòn’s adventurous approach extends from the Art Deco interiors to the multicultural menu. Local ingredients play along with Spanish and other foreign flavors, best exemplified in the taco de pescado stuffed with tanigue kinilaw, mango, and bagoong served in a hard purple taco shell.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF YOUR LOCAL, BUNSIES BEA TAN (PEPPY OLIVE) ARGYL LEONES (SAMYAN THAI STREET FOOD)

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NEW ORDER

Two multi-stall concepts are reinventing food courts

The Grid

Glorietta Food Choices

01 Your Local Stall 14 Instagram.com/yourlocalph

04 Farina Fresh by Josh Boutwood

The Legazpi Village-based neighborhood bistro has branched out to Rockwell. The restaurant will bring people closer to its inventive takes on Pan-Asian flavors like the best-selling torched salmon donburi.

02 Samyan Thai Street Food Stall 16 Instagram.com/samyanph Named after a neighborhood in his home country in Thailand, Samyan is the first concept in the country by chef Ton Tassanakajohn who’s behind Michelinstarred Le Du. The food stall serves Thai street food like the khao kluk kapi, also known as shrimp paste fried rice.

03 Granivore Stall 17 Mixed grain bowls with vegetarian and vegan sides like cheeses and tofu are on the menu at this new stall at the extension wing.

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Josh Boutwood lends his expertise from Helm, Savage, and The Test Kitchen at his new fast concept at Glorietta Food Choices.

Pair fresh pasta with your choice of sauce: shrimp Alfredo, truffle, puttanesca, pesto or spicy Diavola.

05 Bunsies Instagram.com/bunsiesph Rice buns filled with Filipino, Korean, and Japanese flavors are the specialty of Bunsies.

Try the rice burgers stacked with tomatoes, lettuce, and a choice of pork adobo, chicken teriyaki, and beef bulgogi.

06 Peppy Olive Instagram.com/peppyolive From a small shop in Salcedo Village, this Mediterranean concept is one of the newest tenants of the revived Glorietta food court. Peppy Olive prides itself on its customizable bowls, smoothies, and snacks like falafel wraps that are prepared with organic ingredients.

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MERRY MULTIPLICITIES People contain multitudes; so should your gifts for them this season 01

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ART TIN PAZ-YAP

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NEIGHBORHOOD

For the eco-conscious and stylish 01 Junk Not PH’s Your Trash, My Bag Instagram.com/junknot.ph This Laguna-based social enterprise is known for upcycling discarded plastic into furniture. Its latest design, though, is more wearable while still resembling its signature coral polyp-inspired pieces: a round bag constructed with braided plastic wrappers and foil packaging with a strap made from denim trimmings.

For pet parents with an eye for design 02 Halo Halo x E. Murio Instagram.com/halohalostoreph Instagram.com/e.murio A collaboration between furniture maker E. Murio and lifestyle brand Halo Halo, this functional rattan-framed miniature house follows the structure of the original Irooo dog house designed by artist Patricia Eustaquio but with banig panels. And yes, your furry friends can actually live in it.

For the psychic linguist 03 Mga Baraha Instagram.com/mgabaraha There’s no single way of reading this deck.

Each card is inscribed only with a single Filipino word ranging from emotions to time

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like “iyak,” “dama,” and “bukas”—or is it “bûkas”? Either way, it’s a refreshing take on tarot rooted in the complexity of language.

For the practical supporter of fair trade 04 Munimuni S’Atin abaca collection Instagram.com/munimuni.studio Socially aware consumers look beyond aesthetic appeal and quality—they also want to know if a brand practices fair trade. Munimuni, apart from utilizing local materials like abaca and leather, employs artisans from Marikina and Pampanga to handcraft its footwear, which includes a new collection of casual and gender-neutral everyday sandals called S’Atin.

For the feminist patron of Philippine textiles 05 Ma. Collecta debut collection “Life in Piña” Instagram.com/ma.collecta The Filipina way of dressing has evolved from the multi-layered four-piece terno of the 16th century to modern-era silhouettes. And while the translucent and airy piña material may have once fallen out of favor and been relegated as mere costume, this brand named after the quintessential Filipina name Ma. or Maria is adapting it for the modern Filipina with new everyday shapes and versatile synthetic piña blends.

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NEIGHBORHOOD

FINE, THANK YOU

The best investment you can make this season next to investing in yourself: jewelry

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01 Paulina Paige x Namì Nami.ph Tropa Store, 117 Aguirre St. Legazpi Village, Makati

Gold, diamonds, and pearls make up this collection by Sydney-based designer and visual artist Paulina Paige in collaboration with Namì, evoking Filipino themes from sampaguita buds to santan friendship bracelets. Our picks include versatile pieces like the Milagrosa, a pearl stud with a detachable pearl dangler that can transition from dressy to casual occasions.

02 Skewed: Ria Prieto for Jul B. Dizon Julbdizon.com GF Makati Shangri-La Manila, Makati

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Forget the Vitruvian man and Leonardo da Vinci’s imposition that what is beautiful is symmetrical. These playful pieces designed

by Ria Prieto for Jul B. Dizon challenge our ideas about the aesthetics of jewelry with mismatched diamond earrings and rings with oddly-placed pearls bound by gold chains.

03 Cristal collection by Paul Syjuco Every third quarter of the year, Paul Syjuco releases a collection of what he calls “passion pieces,” off-kilter jewelry executed in ways he wouldn’t normally do in his private practice. This year, it’s the Cristal collection, an assortment of fine pieces that defies the conventions of jewelry-making. A standout piece is the diamond tennis bracelet in different cuts—princess, emerald, and round.

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ART DANA CALVO

Paulsyjuco.com Shop 7, The Peninsula Manila, Makati

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BRING THE PAPER BACK

It’s easy to send digital thank you notes, invites, and greeting cards, but nothing beats the personalized allure of tangible paper cards to express your sincerest holiday cheers 01 Paperbound tasseled hongbao Instagram.com/paperbound.ph Springtime hongbao printed with Chinese painting “Along the River During the Qingming Festival” by Song dynasty painter Zhang Zeduan 02 Kaliwete Creatives Instagram.com/kaliwetecreatives Christmas gift tags handpainted in watercolor on acid- and chlorine-free, thick card stock paper

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03 Whisk Designs in collaboration with artist Feanne Instagram.com/whiskdesigns Personalized egrets- and palay-printed cards and note pads 04 Print Café’s postcards Instagram.com/printcafe Featuring works by Everywhere We Shoot, Anina Rubio, Lei Melendres, Maria Lina Losioso, Kesa Obcena, Nicole Lunaria, Jeffrey Jarin, and Gian Wong

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SPECIAL FEATURE

THE GIFT OF SUSTAINABLE GIVING This Christmas season, put an end to mindless shopping and start purchasing for a cause

TEXT MONINA MEJIAS

Green is the new white because this time of the year, we are definitely dreaming of a more sustainable Christmas. Many retail stores are joining the fight to reduce plastic consumption, either by cutting them out of their packaging or using ocean plastic to create new products. To celebrate the festive season, Uptown Mall

has started bringing the holiday cheer with its Uptown x Earth Sustainability campaign. You can find different types of Christmas activities like Christmas shows and attractions as well as having ethical gift choices from retailers to inspire you to take your sustainable gift-giving up a notch.

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SPECIAL FEAUTURE

PAY IT FORWARD 01 Adidas Adidas collaborated with Parley to create the Alphabounce+Parley running shoe. It uses ocean plastic without affecting the shoes’ comfort, looks, and quality.

A great gift for those active environmentalists.

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02 Reef It’s never too cold to hit the beach.

Reef Redemption sandals are a more sustainable sandal option since these are made from recycled materials, which keep your feet comfy while also making sure the ocean is plastic-free.

03 Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf Know a caffeine-addict? Help fuel their coffee addiction while reducing their overall plastic consumption by gifting them CBTL’s double-walled reusable cups with its own washable straw for only P150.

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04 Starbucks Gift your loved ones with reusable cups where they can get their coffee fix without harming the environment. A P5 discount will be given to those who will be ordering their drinks using reusable cups, mugs, or tumblers.

Help others by donating to these retailers

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Uniqlo If you plan to clean out your closet, you can donate your pre-loved clothes as part of Uniqlo’s All-Product Recycling initiative. Donated clothes will either be given to those in need or recycled as industrial fibers and other items.

Cibo Donate your old books at any Cibo branch for their Books for the Better campaign. This is a joint project of Maraming Bayani Foundation & Aklat Para sa Munting Bayani that helps the less fortunate easily access reading materials.

McDonald’s By donating to Ronald McDonald’s Bahay Bulilit, you can help fund the construction of learning centers where children can learn as they play.

11/12/2019 6:22 PM

EATS

Inside a private property in Tagaytay is a Thai fine dining concept by one of the chefs behind Hapag page 21 Five uncoventional hosts share their holiday recipes and the stories behind them page 26 You might want to save your untouched fruit cake for this recipe page 28

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ROYAL TREATMENT Fine Thai food is just a drive away at Tagaytay’s newest dining destination, Ayutthaya

TEXT PAULINE MIRANDA PHOTOGRAPHY SAMANTHA ONG

Fish curry with Thai mashed potatos topped with tapioca crisp

It may just be me, but good Thai food seems rare to come by in Manila these days.

Most Thai restaurants offer just the usual items like pad thai, spring rolls, and pandan chicken —nothing wrong with that, honestly, but there’s so much more to Thai cuisine than that.

If you can’t find it in Manila though, Bangkok isn’t the closest place for good Thai food. There’s always Tagaytay.

Fresh off Hapag’s success, chef Kevin Villarica has opened another fine dining concept in Tagaytay

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called Ayutthaya, which focuses on Thai cuisine.

Situated inside the serene fivehectare EP Farm, Ayutthaya had serendipitous beginnings. Villarica and his fiancée Bea Galang share that initially, it was only set to be the venue for their upcoming wedding. With more talks came more plans including an immersion in Thailand last August, which led to the birth of Ayutthaya.

Named after the ancient Thai kingdom, Ayutthaya currently serves an eight-course dinner made with all Thai ingredients

—both brought in from Thailand and grown straight on the farm in Tagaytay.

Though the dinner is strictly an eight-course meal, it starts even before the first dish is served.

First, you feast with your eyes and ears: The restaurant is opulently decked in gilded decor, mostly with lotus motifs—part of the owner’s collection from decades spent living in Thailand.

Traditional music and chanting play, further setting the mood as you sip on tamarind iced tea (or wine) as the sun sets.

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EATS

Then dinner starts: First, with the fish curry, which comes with tapioca pearls turned into crisp chips by dehydrating them for eight hours.

The dish primarily uses red curry but also has green curry reduction and basil oil. The fish—basa, a relative of the catfish native to Thailand—is served over a bed of Thai mashed potatoes. It’s spicy but not overwhelmingly so that it numbs your tongue; just enough to get your appetite going.

Next is the la tieng, an appetizer said to be served to the Thai royal family.

Thai chicken barbecue

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It has cereal prawns encased in an egg net blackened by squid ink and plated with green and scarlet basil and beetroot emulsions.

The dinner continues with the tom kha pla, a sour coconut broth with prawns and a variety of mushrooms.

It’s similar to the tom yum, except the soup stays white because instead of chili paste (which gives tom yum its red color), they use actual chilies and then strain them out.

The latter half of the meal features some standouts, too. The pad grapao (holy basil stir-fry), which is normally a full meal of chicken with rice, is condensed into a basil leaf “taco” meant to be eaten in a single bite.

The fresh Thai basil cuts through the flavors, giving it a minty, earthy flavor that blends with the crunch of the rice puffs and the spiciness of the eighthour sous vide pork.

Then comes the first dessert: a serving of tarragon and dalandan sorbet, drizzled with makrut lime and beetroot oil, which, upon contact with the sorbet turns into a gel-like coating, adding another texture to the dessert.

This palate cleanser is followed by the last main dish: Thai chicken barbecue. The chicken owes its tenderness to being cooked sous vide in coconut milk marinade.

Tom kha pla

The bagoong rice it accompanies is only mild in taste compared to the usual, which helps the chicken and sauce stand out.

Villarica shares that he intends to update the menu every month, even now that it’s only on its soft opening.

Once the restaurant fully opens in 2020, he also plans to launch an à la carte menu.

Ayutthaya EP Beauty Farm Wellness and Events Destination, Brgy. Cerca II, Anuling Mendez, Cavite Instagram.com/ayutthayaph 0917-8455519

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SPECIAL FEATURE

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SPEND THE HOLIDAYS RIGHT Acienda Designer Outlet opens new stores just in time for the holidays TEXT ELIEL JEUZ SAYO ART JOEY LIZA SIMBULAN

Filipinos have always been captivated by holiday celebrations. The choreographed flickering lights accompanied by looped cheerful jingles seem to heighten the anticipation for the holidays, and with it the inevitable year-end shopping.

With the holiday season just around the corner, shopping and walking around malls can be a struggle. But the good thing is, there’s Acienda Designer Outlet (ADO) in Silang, Cavite that offers the best of both worlds.

This year, ADO adds a line of international brands offering discounted prices all year round. Clothing brand Penguin and multi-brand luxury store Moressi, and footwear shops Florsheim, Naturalizer, Peak, and Coalition (Hush Puppies, Bass, Vionic, Sebago) are now open to provide more fashion choices for holiday shoppers.

After an exhausting shopping spree, mall-goers can rest their feet and dine in ADO’s newest food places like Bistro Ibarra’s, Matt and Ana, and IDO Cafe.

For refreshments and sweet treats,

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Acienda Designer Outlet in Silang, Cavite, welcomes even more fashion, food, sports, and travel brands in time for the upcoming holiday season.

customers can head to Cold Stone, Macao Imperial Tea, The Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf, and Infinitea.

Aside from the various brands and kiosks, attractions such as the Leaning Tower of Pisa, Eiffel Tower, and ADO’s Windmill are situated in every corner to provide selfie opportunities for the whole family.

Under Armour items’ prices go way down at its new discount store in ADO.

Take a welcome break at Cold Stone’s new Acienda Designer Outlet branch.

Crocs fans will appreciate its newly opened discount shop at Acienda Designer Outlet.

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SPECIAL FEATURE

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TIME FOR STRATEGIC SOUTHERN LIVING Cathay Land expects Ananda Square to be a new landmark in the South once completed. The mixed-use development features a strip mall and residential units.

Among the amenities that Ananda Square residents will enjoy will be the lap pool, kiddie pool and pool deck at the Aquatrium.

Families raising the country’s next leaders will appreciate Ananda Square’s amenities, including the Study Lounge.

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Finding the sweet spot between practicality and comfort TEXT ELIEL JEUZ SAYO ART JOEY LIZA SIMBULAN

Owning a car, traveling overseas, purchasing the latest smartphone—these are just some of the aspirations of the current generation of Filipinos.

However, one goal of many regardless of their age is to own a place, a home. With a total area of 619.6 sq. km and a population of roughly 13.6 million, which may swell up to 15 million, it’s unsurprising that Metro Manila is considered as one of the most densely populated areas in the world.

Driven by this aspiration and need, Cathay Land is offering Ananda Square, located along Alabang-Zapote Road in Las Piñas.

Its first tower, a 20-story building, will feature about 700 studio and one-bedroom suites. Homeowners and investors who are looking for enjoyable living spaces will favor the amenities the condominium has to offer. The Aquatrium, featuring a pool

deck, a lap pool, and a kiddie pool, alongside pocket gardens and an open-air courtyard, is suitable for solo or family outdoor leisure activities. The social hall serves as a perfect spot for indoor gatherings and occasions while the study lounge provides a quiet space for students to review their lessons.

Ananda Square will also include a three-floor strip mall for all the residents’ shopping necessities without the hassle of leaving the vicinity.

These days, Filipinos are investing in what can bring them practicality and comfort. With its innovative, sustainable, and strategic living options, a high-rise condominium is one of the best choices anyone could make. For more information on Cathay Land’s Ananda Square project, please call 8878-0178 or visit www.anandasquare.com.

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EATS Nolisoli.p on

Full recipes

h

NS E AT S

TALES FROM THE HOLIDAY TABLE

Sweet and salty holiday nut balls

Roasted butternut squash

Jodinand Aguillon Owner, Glorious Dias

Regine David Photographer

I actually don’t really celebrate the holidays.

This would be my go-to holiday recipe for people who might want to get a kick-start some New Year’s resolutions of meal prepping or eating a bit healthier. These balls are good substitutes for store-bought treats and can provide a bit of an energy boost before a workout.

I had this once at a Christmas dinner in New York years back and instantly became addicted. Since then, I've made it a point to cook this for family and friends whenever we have gatherings. This recipe can also be used for carrots if you’re craving something sweeter.

This is also a great base for creating roasted butternut squash soup; just add it to soup stock and blend.

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EATS

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What do you serve dreaded Christmas crashers? What if you don’t celebrate the holidays but have to put on your yuletide apron for guests? These hosts serve up personal and foolproof recipes perfect for a crowd or a party of one ART DANICA CONDEZ

Baked stuffed peppers Isola Visual artist and lecturer It is a recipe that I learned when I was living in Osaka, Japan. I honestly can’t remember who taught me to do it but this dish was something I enjoyed a lot. I always stocked bell peppers and ground meat in my fridge in my apartment in Osaka. I was living alone so I had to cook for myself.

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Chicken braised in spices, coconut milk, and burnt coconut

Matcha almond cake

Bea Constantino Stylist and owner, Herman & Co.

Matcha financiers sound fancy but are easy to pull off. I’ve made them at midnight while tipsy and midway through a rant about the ecological burden of Christmas gift-giving! In a matter of minutes, you’ll be serving up a satisfying topic change to the tune of “No, you pronounce ‘financier’ like…” or “Matcha lattes are so basic but I love them.” All better than someone bitching about their boss yet again.

I just wanted to share the recipe for one of my favorite traditional dishes called chicken piyanggang from my family’s hometown of Sulu. We have it every time we want to be reminded of the flavors of home. My favorite way of eating it is with some agar-agar (seaweed salad) and flavorful rice.

Paolo Lorenzana Owner, Mafalda: A Queer Kitchen

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EATS

LEFTOVER MAKEOVER

Before you throw out your Noche Buena excess, consider these recipes RECIPE AND STYLING GRAI ALVAR PHOTOGRAPHY SAMANTHA ONG

QUESO DE BOLA AND HAM EGG CUPS INGREDIENTS 6 medium eggs ⅛ cup queso de bola, cut in square chunks 6 tbsp spring onion ⅛ cup ham, cut in strips 2 tbsp cooking oil

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PREPARATION 1. Pre-heat oven to 180° C. Coat muffin tin with cooking oil.

2. In a medium-sized bowl, combine and whisk together eggs, ham, cheese, and spring onion.

Season with salt and pepper.

3. Fill muffin tin with egg mixture.

4. Bake for 20 mins for a runny consistency or 30 mins for a crisp finish.

This can be stored up to 5 days in the refrigerator.

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EATS

LECHON VEGGIE PASTA INGREDIENTS 250g dry whole wheat spaghetti or regular spaghetti 250g lechon, chopped 6 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 1 cup oyster sauce ¼ cup sesame oil ½ cup purple cabbage, cut into strips ¼ cup yellow bell pepper, cut into strips ½ cup broccoli ½ cup spinach Salt and pepper

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PREPARATION 1. Boil pasta in a pot with salted water for 6 mins. Drain and set aside.

2. Over medium heat, sauté all vegetables in a wok with sesame oil until color starts to brighten and set aside.

3. Add lechon and reheat for 5 mins.

Add pasta, oyster sauce and vegetables.

Stir-fry for 7-10 mins.

4. Season with salt and pepper.

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SPECIAL FEATURE

WHAT TO GET YOUR FRIENDS WHO ARE ALL ABOUT FITNESS THIS CHRISTMAS You can do better than water bottles and inspirational tees 01

31 02

Sticky Be Socks With quotes on your soles, you can stay motivated and on your feet with these inspirational non-slip grip socks.

03

Bala Bangles These one-pound wrist and ankle weights will add an interesting twist to your daily workout with its constant and equally distributed weight (which can help build muscle).

04

Vooray Iconic Duffel This roomy duffel bag comes with multiple pockets for organization and extended strap handles for different carrying options.

06

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Aura Athletica Naked on the Beach Boob Candle This local titty-themed tropical candle is infused with citrus and floral fragrances, which can put your mind and body at ease after a workout.

FaceSoft Charcoal-Detox Active Face Towel The antibacterial effect of charcoal leaves your face detoxified and your towel odorless—perfect for your sweaty workout sesh.

05

Avocado Phoenix Fire Leggings Don’t like being caught wearing the same thing as someone else?

These leggings are hand-dyed, making each piece unique

All products are exclusively available at Aura Athletica which is located at the 2F Power Plant Mall, Rockwell Center, Makati

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EATS

CRISPY FRUIT CAKE BALLS WITH TEMPURA BATTER INGREDIENTS ½ cup all-purpose flour ½ cup cornstarch ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp salt 1 cup chilled carbonated water 1 loaf fruit cake, cut into 6-8 squares 4 cups frying oil

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PREPARATION 1. In a deep frying pan, heat oil.

2. For the batter, whisk all-purpose flour, cornstarch, baking powder, carbonated water, and salt together until batter consistency is achieved.

3. Using your hands, mold the fruitcake into balls and dip in batter.

4. Deep fry until golden brown.

Best served hot and freshly cooked.

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TEST OF TIME

At the new Test Kitchen, a change of heart resulted in a radically fun à la carte menu TEXT ERIC NICOLE SALTA PHOTOGRAPHY JUSTIN DE JESUS

In an era in which comebacks and closures are either celebrated or shunned with a heavy hand, The Test Kitchen’s second coming is further evidence that Josh Boutwood’s devotion to his art and craft can’t be tamed, even if the circumstances surrounding his restaurant’s closure—an almost satirical road construction—were out of his hand.

The story of The Test Kitchen’s reincarnation began as an accident and, surprisingly, went against his personal belief to never reopen it or any establishment for that matter.

“Because replicating the restaurant in two different locations is a challenge when there’s so much heart and soul in one place,” he says.

It may have taken some time to reconcile the restaurant’s disappearing act but a year since it closed, The Test Kitchen 2.0 is hardly a tribute to the original.

Chorizo, cured duck breast, and lomo make up the charcuterie plate, accompanied by homemade wheat bread, in which the grains are milled daily

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EATS

Upstairs on the second floor, the more private dining area sits adjacent to a fermentation shelf and an open charcuterie and curing room—kept at a certain temperature—that is a perfect example of the deliberate references to its past.

“That for me is the heart of this place because everything that is on the menu somehow or another incorporates some item that is from that room.”

What’s the big idea?

The menu, which is printed every evening to reflect the ingredients available on hand, opens in a casual fashion with a tiny note suggesting how to navigate the experience. A crackling snack warm-up jolts diners out of their curiosity; the bread and charcuterie plates, which change on a daily basis, are effective starts to get into the process of discovering what else the chef has up his sleeve.

Then the “First” part of the menu expands into a full flow of flavors such as in the Cucumber, Squid, Dill where the Japanese vegetables are compressed in distilled vinegar and paired with poached squid strips complete with a searing serving sauce of cucumber juice, dill oil, and lumpfish roe. It’s a subdued dish that resonates with a subtle coolness with each bite.

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Sea bass, fennel, green pea

But it is the “Second” half that gives the most explicit indication of where Boutwood is heading with The Test Kitchen’s revival.

Perhaps modeled after this formula are two of the standouts on the menu.

First, the in-house dry aged Australian wagyu cooked to medium rare perfection, paired with a horseradish and sunflower emulsion and a softly structured mille-feuille potato to create a joyous tribute to The Test Kitchen long-time fixture Paulo Bayani’s firewielding skills.

Boutwood then zooms into the ocean with a Sea Bass, Fennel, Green Pea offering that is just as audacious and inviting as his fast-moving, freerange roasted native chicken sourced from Costales Nature Farms.

Finally, the “Third” or the dessert menu, while small, packs a rich

punch to give old traditional flavors a contemporary update. The cooked cream with wild honey and bee pollen and honeycomb caramel is a woven hive of flavors that dig into lovely notes of how sweet should be.

The Burnt White Chocolate, Coffee, Egg mousse meanwhile is noticeably light and airy that seems to taste different when eaten with the crisp egg white meringue.

The Test Kitchen is a rebranding— we can call it that—of such dramatic power that it’s hard to think of a better way to describe it other than it’s a comeback that makes sense.

The Test Kitchen GF East Tower, One Rockwell, Rockwell Dr., Makati Instagram.com/thetestkitchenmnl 0977-2885751

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ONE FOR THE AGED Something is bubbling up in Karrivin: a new restaurant with a focus on fermentation and Filipino flavors

TEXT CHRISTIAN SAN JOSE PHOTOGRAPHY JONAS TIMBREZA

Almost everything Metiz uses in its dish are made in-house through fermentation.

“Curing is caring,” “Age matters,” read two short bond papers posted on one of two fermenting refrigerators at Metiz, the newest restaurant at the Karrivin Plaza on Chino Roces Ave. Extension.

The floor plan is just one long stretch of space without dividers, except for the dining area built for large groups situated at the end of the

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hall, which is only partitioned by a shelf brimming with jars upon jars of ferments—from rice, fruits, and vinegar to kombucha starters.

The kitchen is open plan, too, so you get the illusion of eating in the comfort of your home—unhindered by space, no boundaries between the cook and the diner. On the counters— strictly stainless and concrete, and

with some wood—lie various pieces of apparatus like a dehydrator and a sous vide machine, almost like peering into the secret life of a chef that is almost as curious as his bottles of ferments: chef Stephan Duhesme.

When we came one afternoon, Duhesme was busy meticulously taking apart green langka like a surgeon with a scalpel.

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24 36 Currently working on a menu of five courses, Duhesme plates his dishes in unexpected ways but still with familiar Filipino flavors. The langka, for example, mostly utilized by the locals by cooking meat in coconut oil, is treated very differently.

“We try to look at many different ways, processes, at many different native ingredients but also while keeping a very core thing that is Filipino flavor,” Duhesme says. And it’s true even at its plated offering, you are reminded of classic Filipino dishes.

The appetizer of gelatinous minced pork trotter glazed with mangosteen and served on wild pepper leaves with grilled green chili and calamansi is reminiscent of the Kapampangan favorite sisig.

Metiz GF Building A, Karrivin Plaza, 2316 Chino Roces Ave. Ext., Makati Instagram.com/metizresto 0917-8985751

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EATS In some cases, it reminds the palate of not just a single familiar taste but two. Like with the grilled eggplant, ubod, pomelo, peanuts, and pickles doused in coconut vinegar dressing.

It’s as if ensaladang talong and the fresh lumpiang ubod had a baby together —a clean-tasting, fresh, and crisp one at that.

Between the two mains, we chose the ferments-centric hito with liver sauce, guava jam and a side of mustasa, atsara, and buro over the crowd favorite beef tendon with egg, Kalinga rice, palapa, and guava vinegar.

But that’s not to say the beef tendon does not come with any criticism.

The goto-like dish has gone through three iterations before settling into its simplest and arguably best form, says

Duhesme, thanks to the feedback of Metiz’s first few customers.

Duhesme took these all in strides including the raving reviews by some big names, including Margarita Forés and restaurateur Elbert Cuenca.

This he simply shrugged being the laid-back person that he is.

“At least now I know that they are receptive to my timpla,” he says nonchalantly.

“This allows me to relax a little bit and create and basically be crazier with the stuff that I want to put out.

It gives you a little boost of confidence to be able to say ‘Okay, this is a good basis, now let’s proceed and see what’s the limit.’”

11/12/2019 1:04 PM

2020 NEW YEAR’S EVE COUNTDOWN DECEMBER 31, 2019 | STARTS AT 7:00 PM | THE TENT

Buy your tickets now! www.ticketworld.com.ph | 8891-9999

LIVING THINGS

From San Juan to San Pablo: How designer Patis Tesoro built her ideal home around art, nature, and dogs page 39

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LIVING THINGS

39

SAFE SPACES Designer Patis Tesoro finds solitude and clarity in simple, honest living TEXT DENISE DANIELLE ALCANTARA PHOTOGRAPHY RG MEDESTOMAS

Imagine waking up right before sunrise. Light starts to peek into your wide windows. The cool dawn breeze rustles the leaves of lush trees outside.

Then, birds start to chirp and wake up, too. “It’s going to be a good day,” you tell yourself. You don’t rush. You stretch. Sit down on the edge of your bed and watch the sunrise.

Seems like a reverie, a luxury, to simply enjoy and relish moments without worry. This is how fashion designer and all-around creative Patis Tesoro starts her day in her home in the province of Laguna.

“Oh, I have a routine,” she says. “I draw from 5 till 8 o’clock in the morning. Then after I draw, I would have my breakfast. I’m usually out here by 9 or 10 o’clock,” Tesoro narrates while fixing some paperwork at her atelier.

Tesoro transferred her dress shop from San Juan to her three-hectare weekend home in Laguna after her husband died almost three years ago. “I don’t want Manila anymore. I refuse!” she says.

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LIVING THINGS

In Laguna, she would get up, let her creative juices flow, eat slowly, while doing what she loves most: horticulture. “If I could do my life all over again, I would probably be a horticulturist,” she says. “Dresses and plants? They’re the same. You’re making beautiful things with plants.

Of course, you’ve got to learn more because they’re living things. But it’s also about beauty. Beauty is good air and the way you think. And people have a hard time understanding that.”

Moving back to the provincial setting was natural to Tesoro. She grew up in Iloilo in the ’50s. It wasn’t until she was six years old that they owned a television set. So, growing up meant being exposed to all kinds of housework, including gardening.

After decades of living in the city, it was about time to return to her roots.

“You have to learn how to deal with nature; deal with simpler eating.

And I’m not talking about fast food eating but cooking at home,” Tesoro shares. She also urges us to start growing our own produce—the first and most important step of which is to check our soil. “It’s all in the soil.

If your soil is poor, it is not going to happen,” she emphasizes animatedly.

Before constructing the house, it was imperative to start planting first.

“If you want to enjoy what you’ve planted, you have to start early,” Tesoro says. As we walk around the property, she would point at tall trees and boast that she planted those decades ago. As with plants, her plan on what to do with the space came about slowly, especially because she spent most of her time in the city.

“I used to get angry easily. Now, I don’t. I garden.”

Back to basics Tesoro spends a part of her morning walking around her gardens, which are sustained by vermiculture.

In design It all started 40 years ago, when the couple decided to buy this patch of land in the sleepy town of San Pablo,

Reclaimed wood and other old house parts like ventanillas, or carved out wall vents, are repurposed as sculptures and integral structural fixtures.

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Laguna. They only had a nipa hut back then. “It was hard to maintain, and you get a lot of tuko and all kinds of animals falling on your head,” Tesoro narrates.

Today, the property has three important structures: her private home, the old café and extension (composed of her office, dress shop, and mini gallery), and At’s Place, a two-story house formerly owned by photographer At Maculangan, which Tesoro renovated to reflect her love for Filipino design.

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42 Rejected Machuca tiles and reclaimed wood from old houses accentuate Tesoro’s residence, a few meters away from the atelier and the café.

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LIVING THINGS

Her current house is the reconstructed version of their old home. If there’s one thing that is truly Patis Tesoro’s signature, it is her homage to Filipino design. “Filipino houses, even the nipa house, all began with ventilation.

It is important in the tropics because if you don’t have ventilation, you’ll swelter inside,” she says. This is why all the rooms inside the property have high ceilings and ventanillas, carved-out wood panels that connect the walls to the ceiling while letting ample breeze in. Apart from being beautiful because of the different lace-like patterns that could be created, the burda or ventanillas are essential to ensure good airflow within a space.

Tesoro is definitely unafraid of color. Patterns and color abound in every nook and cranny.

Even ceilings and steps are handpainted.

Her trusty all-around staff Raymond Cruz, nicknamed Madonna by Tesoro, turns the designer’s ideas into beautiful frescos of indigenous plants and flowers.

A few years back, Tesoro opened Patis Tito to the public, a restaurant which showcased her different recipes amassed from travels. It is currently under renovation and will be open to the public hopefully early next year.

“So, this is typically Filipino. We expand when we have the opportunity and the money and the resource,” says Tesoro. She decided to construct an extension of the café upon transferring for good in Laguna. It houses her costura or atelier, office, gallery, and a receiving area where customers can dine. In the small gallery, a few wooden sculptures are displayed.

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LIVING THINGS “These are made by a tricycle driver who is also a good sculptor,” she boasts. Said sculptor uses old hardwood or retaso wood from the construction.

Almost every structure is upcycled—from beams to doors and even handles—using hardwood from old houses. Even some good condition ventanillas are used, then the rest are replicas to fill in the gaps. Tesoro never stops creating. She makes use of everything that could be salvaged.

“Dresses and plants? They’re the same. You’re making beautiful things with plants. Of course, you’ve got to learn more because they’re living things. But it’s also about beauty. Beauty is good air and the way you think. And people have a hard time understanding that.”

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Opening doors “When people enter, I like them to feel that this is a great way to live,” says Tesoro. So, she opened her doors to the public, but only for reservation.

At’s Place is her little bed and breakfast that transports you to simpler, quieter times.

Through word of mouth, Tesoro has been hosting guests for P5,000 per person with free home-cooked breakfast. They could also bring and cook their own food; however, should guests prefer not to, Tesoro is also offering set menus.

True to her mission of sharing the quiet lifestyle, the second floor of the extension area is also being developed to become rooms for rent as well. This constant process of creation is what keeps Tesoro going. “What I do, it’s simple.

It’s not difficult if you put your mind into it. If your mind is very ‘magulo,’ not quiet, then you’ll never get it,” she says. In her own version of oasis is where she found clarity. She claims that it also made her more creative. “That’s the reason why I haven’t completely opened yet: a) I am still doing b) I’m still finding my way on how I’m going to present it.”

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SERVICES

“Please RSVP. Please don’t ignore me.” page 46

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SERVICES

PLEASE, RESPOND It seems easy enough: Send a quick yes or no to the contact number indicated in an invitation. And yet, why doesn’t the simple act of RSVPing come naturally to most people? Directly translated from the French phrase répondez s’il vous plaît, RSVP means “please respond.” Others may dismiss this as optional, but if you’re a party planner, you know how important this is for organizing any event.

Basics When you’re planning a party, one of the first things a planner will discuss with you is your budget.

Whether money is no object or you’re sticking to a conservative amount, the budget will help set the logistics for your event.

Once you’ve set a budget, you can discuss the expected number of guests—so you can figure out the space (will it fit all of your guests?), finalize your menu (how many plates are you preparing?) and other details, such as the setup.

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What to do when your guests don’t RSVP

These days, there are many ways to request an RSVP. Your standard would be to send it through the organizer or the person whose contact details appear in the invitation. You can also request an e-response via a website or through email. Another RSVP request is to send “regrets only,” meaning only people not attending are required to send their regrets. Whichever style you choose, make sure to give ample time to your guests as they may have other engagements they’re sorting through. It’s good to indicate a deadline for the RSVP. Christine Ong-Te of Christine Ong-Te Events suggests, “Make sure you RSVP at least three weeks before the event. It will help even [for] a tight budget.”

Ong-Te shares that Filipinos are not fond of RSVPing, but she suggests, “You have to call them to make sure your number is significant to your set budget.”

Chinkie Uy of Metro Eventscape Planners echoes this. For her, responding to an invitation is vital, regardless of whether it’s a big or small event. “It really helps make the necessary arrangements to make sure that our guests are taken care of and that they are able to get the best service. Food, seating, and other details are taken into account once we know exactly how many people are coming,” she says.

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Why RSVPs are the building blocks of every party and how you can work your way around them TEXT MACY ALCARAZ

ART LEVENSPEIL SANGALANG

What to do when people who did not RSVP show up

Finalizing your guest list

Categorizing people on your list in terms of their relation to you will also help when you have to suddenly trim your guest list. “In this way, you will be able to have an overview of who you want to remove or retain on your list,” says Ong-Te.

So, how do you determine your guest list in the first place? Uy shares important questions any host should consider when finalizing their list: “Will not having this guest make things less enjoyable for you? How close are you to this guest, looking back at your party—is it vital that they are there? Who are the nonnegotiables? How much are you really willing to spend on these people?

Those should be able to guide them into creating a more viable guest list.”

In the end, planning a party shouldn’t be stressful for you as the host. You should enjoy not just the process, but the event itself. If you’ve planned well enough—taking into account the budget, buffer, and your guests’ preferences—everything should go without a hitch. But if something doesn’t go according to plan, take note of those who showed up without RSVPing and consider putting them at the bottom of your priority list.

Ong-Te says that there really is no perfect attendance at any event, but it’s always best to be prepared.

She advises informing the caterer that there may be unexpected guests and including a buffer for last-minute arrivals.

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WHEREABOUTS

LAST FULL SHOW

Terminally Chill Dec. 3 to Jan. 4, 2020, Mon-Sat, 9 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Iya Consorio | León Gallery GF Eurovilla 1, Rufino cor. Legazpi Sts., Makati Iya Consorio will be bringing her surrealist and mystic art pieces to Makati City by mounting a solo exhibit at León Gallery. Much like her previous works, “Terminally Chill” gives viewers a glimpse into her dream world through a collection of surreal and dream-like artwork.

Art of War Dec. 5 to Jan. 5, 2020, Mon-Sun, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.

Anton Del Castillo | Provenance Art Gallery 2F Shangri-La at the Fort, 5th Ave. cor. 30th Ave., Bonifacio Global City, Taguig Known for his metal works and mixed media pieces that are inspired by personal childhood experience and meditations on modernism and contemporary life, Anton Del Castillo will be mounting a solo exhibit that features some of his newer pieces.

“Art of War” is curated by Ricky Francisco.

59.59 Dec. 7 to Jan. 11, 2020, Tue-Fri, 10 a.m. to 7p.m. Sat, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Corinne de San Jose | Silverlens Galleries 2263 Chino Roces Ave. Ext., Makati Award-winning professional sound designer Corinne de San Jose is combining her craft with her artistic instincts as a photographer in her latest solo exhibit. By using 118 radios playing an audio loop of crickets chirping, “59.59” explores our representations of silence.

ZIGAZIG Ah! Dec. 7 to Jan. 11, 2020, Tue-Fri, 10 a.m. to 7pm, Sat, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.

Yee I-Lann | Silverlens Galleries 2263 Chino Roces Ave. Ext., Makati In collaboration with weavers from Keningau, Borneo and Pulau Omadal, Semporna, Sabahan artist Yee I-Lann will be mounting an exhibit highlighting the new works from her collaboration with these communities. Her exhibit brings the practices and aesthetics of two communities into dialogue.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF PROVENANCE ART GALLERY, SILVERLENS GALLERIES, LEÓN GALLERY

Art exhibits to close the year and open a new one

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