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Step 15: Wrapping it up

RIPP recommends using quality products to service your engine.

Your last few steps will be Check List (Attention Critical Step)

 Going over all your bolts, clamps, hoses, tie wraps, and fluids twice (Don’t skip this step).  Refill your oil with fresh oil filter  Make sure you followed the oil breather instructions for self contained blowers  Check oil level in self contained units before starting the vehicle  Refill your coolant (as per the factory guide lines)  Make sure all wire connections are solid and no wires are exposed  Go over vacuum diagram making sure your sending vacuum and boost properly  Make sure ECU is properly plugged in all the way  Make sure all hoses are tight  Make sure all ignition wires are tight and clicked in

Step 16: Starting the vehicle and dialing it in for the first time:

Once you are ready to start the vehicle there are a few things that need dialing in. FROM

THE FIRST TIME YOU START IT UP AND FROM HERE ON OUT YOU WILL DO THE FOLLOWING:

 Turn the key onto the on position  Wait two seconds for the ECU and Black Box to calibrate  Start the vehicle and bring to idle.  From time to time the ECU and your Black Box will Syncro-Start, whereas the engine will crank five times, this is normal and an excellent feature keeping the two electronics 100% connected.  If the belt is squeaking there is an adjustment to be made, in Step 16 we pointed out the oblong dowel hole, this hole is for belt alignment. Simply loosen the four 4mm (5/32”) Allen-head screws. Then by either using a straight edge or a “good eye”, adjust the belt by tapping the shaft forward or back a few mm’s so that it rides straight on the supercharger pulley in relation to the accessory pulleys. In some cases the belt will squeak for a short period of time until the pulleys and belt are seated in.  It is normal for the supercharger to have a higher pitched chattering sound, this is the sound of the gears making face - over the first 500 miles it will progressively get quieter.

Note: It is strongly recommended that you have a set of aftermarket gauges installed for proper dial in. RIPP recommends Boost/vacuum gauge, Air/fuel ratio, and/or an Oil pressure gauge. Check for leaks

 Fuel leaks  Oil leak feed (if so optioned)  Oil Leak return (if so optioned)  Blow off valve surge setting (to adjust turn clock wise until 3-5 threads are showing)  Vacuum leaks  No misfires (running on five or not starting at all)  No immediate engine lights (Attention Critical Step)  If anything is lose shut it down and repair.  If everything seems in order, let it run for 30-60 seconds, then shut down and let the vehicle sit for a minute. Recheck the oil level on the dipstick. (CHECK the entire oil feed and return system for oil leaks-if so optioned).

CAUTION!!! Make sure there are no fuel leaks upon initial start up. Proper inspection of all fuel connection must be assessed before starting the vehicle. If there are fuel leaks, shut the vehicle down and repair.

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RIPP Supercharger JEEP Wrangler 3.8

Step 16: Driving your JK

ALL New owners must read this section in its entirety to fully understand and make the most use of your RIPP Supercharged Jeep.

Note: The SDS is designed to run even if the blower or any part of the system should fail, always keep the factory serpentine and a 3/8th’s ratchet wrench in the truck.

From time to time the ECU and our Black Box will Syncro-Start, whereas the engine will crank five times without starting. This is normal and an excellent feature keeping the two electronics 100% connected.

Automatic

Driving your automatic Jeep with a RIPP Supercharger installed is going to be very different experience from stock. As you know in stock form your Jeep’s power is adequate at best, but adding our supercharger will maximize its power and efficiency. The automatic is the most tedious to tune however the combination of stock gears and tires will work seamlessly if you thoroughly understand how they calibrate themselves and how we adjust them.

The engineers at Jeep equipped your vehicle with a very smart drive-train failsafe system called Torque Request Calculation and Load Bearing Calibration, you’ll learn to love and hate this feature. This feature allows the ECU to specifically keep close watch to the power being transmitted to the drive train. In the event the drive-train is “calculated” to be “over powered” the ECU’s factory calibrated sensory (which is a combination of RPM, wheel-speed, throttle position, gear selection and traction control) called the Torque Request alarm will be triggered. When the throttle is floored or at 100% deflection the Torque Request Denied alarm shows itself as a combination of abrupt pause in acceleration and as a dash light blinking. The light is a red lightning bolt with two lines left and right, combined with the check engine light and bells. Once the Torque Request Denied signal has been triggered its best to bring the vehicle to a stop and shut the key off, turn the key on – wait two seconds and start it back up, everything will be brought back to100% operational standards again and you can continue on. There is no direct relation to what you’re doing or asking your engine to do when the TRD alarm is triggered, it’s a calculated safety feature and in some circumstances will trigger unexpectedly and can be alarming when it does. We recommend you be on alert for it when you first start driving your newly installed kit, it’s likely to trigger at least once early on. However through a combination of driving technique and tuning we have lulled it down to occasionally. However it is less likely to be triggered if you follow the guidelines listed here.

To maximize fuel mileage, try to use engine speeds between 2000 and 3000 RPM, likewise for maximum power use 3000 to 5000. In most cases turning the Over Drive off in the city will yield better fuel economy and more engine response, we’ve found using the Over Drive on the highway will work best with engine speeds of 1900-2200. For absolute maximum power a combination of full throttle and partial throttle lift will need to be mastered. The ECU will always go into a fail safe mode when floored and the TRD is always on watch for over powering the drive train; with the throttle slightly lifted our electronics do a more thorough job of “steering or redirecting “the ECU’s fail safes. This doesn’t mean we are shutting the fail safe-system off, it merely means we are

calibrating it to the new circumstances, with partial throttle lift the fail safe is less sensitive to the added power.

The OEM ECU makes most of its calculations based on MAP sensor readings, its imperative you understand that slightly “back-pedaling” the throttle will produce a better driving experience. You as owners - like anything else- should become familiar with this and explain it to anyone who might also drive the vehicle- simply flooring it does not produce the power gains and in fact puts the ECU in a state of “control”. A second notable “user controlled throttle related condition” has to do with the supercharger itself; when driving on the high way it’s important to hear the Bypass Valve (BOV) bleeding excess air out into the atmosphere, this keeps the blower safe from compressor surge or dead heading the impellers and helps the ECU see the much needed vacuum readings at the factory MAP sensor. Slightly lifting off the throttle at highway speed will produce smoother shifting, better fuel economy and faster throttle response. In the event you should encounter hung up shift points simply roll off the throttle slowly until the shift is made (always keeping safe driving conditions around you in mind) allowing the MAP sensor to see vacuum and the shift will come in.

Automatic with plus size tires and stock gears

We strongly recommend using a tire size calibrator to correct the transmission ECU. Those of you running plus size tires and stock gearing may encounter a surge in acceleration while using cruise control, this is not a product of the ECU or our calibrations, it’s a product of the TRD not matching the vehicle wheel speed with the engine RPM, hitting cancel and resume will reset the cruise feature and stop the surge. Over time the adaptive will massage some of this to a minimum.

Don’t be afraid to use your automatic transmission; You may need to use more of the throttle and subsequently the RPM band to find your power. In our lengthy proto-type process we’ve found a better driving experience with a combination of manually shifting our transmission to match engine speed rather than leaving it in Drive alone. This is mostly due to the EPA and the OEM engineers tuning for low emissions, the transmission is always looking to lock the converter up and keep RPM low and as most end users know there is no power in lower RPM of the 3.8.

Automatic with plus size tires and up sized gears

We strongly recommend using a tire size calibrator to correct the transmission ECU.

For the most part with plus sized tires and over-sized gears yields the best driving experience follow the Automatic with stock gears and tires guide lines. This combination yields great gas mileage and power. The engineers at Jeep equipped your vehicle with a very smart fail safe called Torque Request Calibration and Load Baring Calibration. This is best explained above in the first few paragraphs. It’s the ECU specifically keeping close watch to the drive train power. When the throttle is floored or at 100% deflection the Torque Request feature is most present, it shows itself as an abrupt pause in acceleration and as a dash light blinking. The light is a red lightning bolt with two lights left and right, combined with the check engine light. Once the Torque Request Denied signal has been triggered its best to bring the vehicle to a stop and shut the key off, turn the key on – wait two seconds and start it back up, everything will be brought back to100% operational standards again

and you can continue on. This is less likely to be triggered if you follow the guidelines listed here. When driving off road you’ll find that the power is found between 2500 3500 rpm, its extremely easy to modulate and very predictable. Like anything else it will require driving and becoming familiar with it.

6 Speed manual regardless of tire and gear combination.

Driving your 6speed manual transmission Jeep is already great with the exception of the power, with a RIPP Supercharger is going to be that much better. This is the easiest and least resistant to the added power, in actuality your driving experience will be heightened with little resistance from the ECU. You may experience the Torque Request Denied fail-safe from time to time if ever, if so follow the guide lines listed below to reset it. This is the ECU specifically keeping close watch to the drive train power. When the throttle is floored or at 100% deflection the Torque Request feature is most present, it shows itself as an abrupt pause in acceleration and as a dash light blinking. The light is a red lightning bolt with two lights left and right, combined with the check engine light. Once the Torque Request Denied signal has been triggered its best to bring the vehicle to a stop and shut the key off, turn the key on –wait two seconds and start it back up, everything will be brought back to100% operational standards again and you can continue on. This is less likely to be triggered if you follow the guidelines listed here.

Take time to read the Automatic portion of this section to better understand the factory electronics and our calibrations.

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